diff options
Diffstat (limited to '45396-h/45396-h.html')
| -rw-r--r-- | 45396-h/45396-h.html | 11405 |
1 files changed, 0 insertions, 11405 deletions
diff --git a/45396-h/45396-h.html b/45396-h/45396-h.html deleted file mode 100644 index ab5c011..0000000 --- a/45396-h/45396-h.html +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11405 +0,0 @@ -<?xml version='1.0' encoding='utf-8'?> -<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC '-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.1//EN' 'http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml11/DTD/xhtml11.dtd'> -<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> -<head> -<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8" /> -<meta name="generator" content="Docutils 0.11: http://docutils.sourceforge.net/" /> -<style type="text/css"> -/* -Project Gutenberg common docutils stylesheet. - -This stylesheet contains styles common to HTML and EPUB. Put styles -that are specific to HTML and EPUB into their relative stylesheets. - -:Author: Marcello Perathoner (webmaster@gutenberg.org) -:Copyright: This stylesheet has been placed in the public domain. - -This stylesheet is based on: - - :Author: David Goodger (goodger@python.org) - :Copyright: This stylesheet has been placed in the public domain. - - Default cascading style sheet for the HTML output of Docutils. - -*/ - -/* ADE 1.7.2 chokes on !important and throws all css out. */ - -/* FONTS */ - -.italics { font-style: italic } -.no-italics { font-style: normal } - -.bold { font-weight: bold } -.no-bold { font-weight: normal } - -.small-caps { } /* Epub needs italics */ -.gesperrt { } /* Epub needs italics */ -.antiqua { font-style: italic } /* what else can we do ? */ -.monospaced { font-family: monospace } - -.smaller { font-size: smaller } -.larger { font-size: larger } - -.xx-small { font-size: xx-small } -.x-small { font-size: x-small } -.small { font-size: small } -.medium { font-size: medium } -.large { font-size: large } -.x-large { font-size: x-large } -.xx-large { font-size: xx-large } - -.text-transform-uppercase { text-transform: uppercase } -.text-transform-lowercase { text-transform: lowercase } -.text-transform-none { text-transform: none } - -.red { color: red } -.green { color: green } -.blue { color: blue } -.yellow { color: yellow } -.white { color: white } -.gray { color: gray } -.black { color: black } - -/* ALIGN */ - -.left { text-align: left } -.justify { text-align: justify } -.center { text-align: center; text-indent: 0 } -.centerleft { text-align: center; text-indent: 0 } -.right { text-align: right; text-indent: 0 } - -/* LINE HEIGHT */ - -body { line-height: 1.5 } -p { margin: 0; - text-indent: 2em } - -/* PAGINATION */ - -.title, .subtitle { page-break-after: avoid } - -.container, .title, .subtitle, #pg-header - { page-break-inside: avoid } - -/* SECTIONS */ - -body { text-align: justify } - -p.pfirst, p.noindent { - text-indent: 0 -} - -.boxed { border: 1px solid black; padding: 1em } -.topic, .note { margin: 5% 0; border: 1px solid black; padding: 1em } -div.section { clear: both } - -div.line-block { margin: 1.5em 0 } /* same leading as p */ -div.line-block.inner { margin: 0 0 0 10% } -div.line { margin-left: 20%; text-indent: -20%; } -.line-block.noindent div.line { margin-left: 0; text-indent: 0; } - -hr.docutils { margin: 1.5em 40%; border: none; border-bottom: 1px solid black; } -div.transition { margin: 1.5em 0 } - -.vfill, .vspace { border: 0px solid white } - -.title { margin: 1.5em 0 } -.title.with-subtitle { margin-bottom: 0 } -.subtitle { margin: 1.5em 0 } - -/* header font style */ -/* http://dev.w3.org/csswg/css3-fonts/#propdef-font-size */ - -h1.title { font-size: 200%; } /* for book title only */ -h2.title, p.subtitle.level-1 { font-size: 150%; margin-top: 4.5em; margin-bottom: 2em } -h3.title, p.subtitle.level-2 { font-size: 120%; margin-top: 2.25em; margin-bottom: 1.25em } -h4.title, p.subtitle.level-3 { font-size: 100%; margin-top: 1.5em; margin-bottom: 1.5em; font-weight: bold; } -h5.title, p.subtitle.level-4 { font-size: 89%; margin-top: 1.87em; margin-bottom: 1.69em; font-style: italic; } -h6.title, p.subtitle.level-5 { font-size: 60%; margin-top: 3.5em; margin-bottom: 2.5em } - -/* title page */ - -h1.title, p.subtitle.level-1, -h2.title, p.subtitle.level-2 { text-align: center } - -#pg-header, -h1.document-title { margin: 10% 0 5% 0 } -p.document-subtitle { margin: 0 0 5% 0 } - -/* PG header and footer */ -#pg-machine-header { } -#pg-produced-by { } - -li.toc-entry { list-style-type: none } -ul.open li, ol.open li { margin-bottom: 1.5em } - -.attribution { margin-top: 1.5em } - -.example-rendered { - margin: 1em 5%; border: 1px dotted red; padding: 1em; background-color: #ffd } -.literal-block.example-source { - margin: 1em 5%; border: 1px dotted blue; padding: 1em; background-color: #eef } - -/* DROPCAPS */ - -/* BLOCKQUOTES */ - -blockquote { margin: 1.5em 10% } - -blockquote.epigraph { } - -blockquote.highlights { } - -div.local-contents { margin: 1.5em 10% } - -div.abstract { margin: 3em 10% } -div.image { margin: 1.5em 0 } -div.caption { margin: 1.5em 0 } -div.legend { margin: 1.5em 0 } - -.hidden { display: none } - -.invisible { visibility: hidden; color: white } /* white: mozilla print bug */ - -a.toc-backref { - text-decoration: none ; - color: black } - -dl.docutils dd { - margin-bottom: 0.5em } - -div.figure { margin-top: 3em; margin-bottom: 3em } - -img { max-width: 100% } - -div.footer, div.header { - clear: both; - font-size: smaller } - -div.sidebar { - margin: 0 0 0.5em 1em ; - border: medium outset ; - padding: 1em ; - background-color: #ffffee ; - width: 40% ; - float: right ; - clear: right } - -div.sidebar p.rubric { - font-family: sans-serif ; - font-size: medium } - -ol.simple, ul.simple { margin: 1.5em 0 } - -ol.toc-list, ul.toc-list { padding-left: 0 } -ol ol.toc-list, ul ul.toc-list { padding-left: 5% } - -ol.arabic { - list-style: decimal } - -ol.loweralpha { - list-style: lower-alpha } - -ol.upperalpha { - list-style: upper-alpha } - -ol.lowerroman { - list-style: lower-roman } - -ol.upperroman { - list-style: upper-roman } - -p.credits { - font-style: italic ; - font-size: smaller } - -p.label { - white-space: nowrap } - -p.rubric { - font-weight: bold ; - font-size: larger ; - color: maroon ; - text-align: center } - -p.sidebar-title { - font-family: sans-serif ; - font-weight: bold ; - font-size: larger } - -p.sidebar-subtitle { - font-family: sans-serif ; - font-weight: bold } - -p.topic-title, p.admonition-title { - font-weight: bold } - -pre.address { - margin-bottom: 0 ; - margin-top: 0 ; - font: inherit } - -.literal-block, .doctest-block { - margin-left: 2em ; - margin-right: 2em; } - -span.classifier { - font-family: sans-serif ; - font-style: oblique } - -span.classifier-delimiter { - font-family: sans-serif ; - font-weight: bold } - -span.interpreted { - font-family: sans-serif } - -span.option { - white-space: nowrap } - -span.pre { - white-space: pre } - -span.problematic { - color: red } - -span.section-subtitle { - /* font-size relative to parent (h1..h6 element) */ - font-size: 100% } - -table { margin-top: 1.5em; margin-bottom: 1.5em; border-spacing: 0 } -table.align-left, table.align-right { margin-top: 0 } - -table.table { border-collapse: collapse; } - -table.table.hrules-table thead { border: 1px solid black; border-width: 2px 0 0 } -table.table.hrules-table tbody { border: 1px solid black; border-width: 2px 0 } -table.table.hrules-rows tr { border: 1px solid black; border-width: 0 0 1px } -table.table.hrules-rows tr.last { border-width: 0 } -table.table.hrules-rows td, -table.table.hrules-rows th { padding: 1ex 1em; vertical-align: middle } - -table.table tr { border-width: 0 } -table.table td, -table.table th { padding: 0.5ex 1em } -table.table tr.first td { padding-top: 1ex } -table.table tr.last td { padding-bottom: 1ex } -table.table tr.first th { padding-top: 1ex } -table.table tr.last th { padding-bottom: 1ex } - - -table.citation { - border-left: solid 1px gray; - margin-left: 1px } - -table.docinfo { - margin: 3em 4em } - -table.docutils { } - -div.footnote-group { margin: 1em 0 } -table.footnote td.label { width: 2em; text-align: right; padding-left: 0 } - -table.docutils td, table.docutils th, -table.docinfo td, table.docinfo th { - padding: 0 0.5em; - vertical-align: top } - -table.docutils th.field-name, table.docinfo th.docinfo-name { - font-weight: bold ; - text-align: left ; - white-space: nowrap ; - padding-left: 0 } - -/* used to remove borders from tables and images */ -.borderless, table.borderless td, table.borderless th { - border: 0 } - -table.borderless td, table.borderless th { - /* Override padding for "table.docutils td" with "!important". - The right padding separates the table cells. */ - padding: 0 0.5em 0 0 } /* FIXME: was !important */ - -h1 tt.docutils, h2 tt.docutils, h3 tt.docutils, -h4 tt.docutils, h5 tt.docutils, h6 tt.docutils { - font-size: 100% } - -ul.auto-toc { - list-style-type: none } -</style> -<style type="text/css"> -/* -Project Gutenberg HTML docutils stylesheet. - -This stylesheet contains styles specific to HTML. -*/ - -/* FONTS */ - -/* em { font-style: normal } -strong { font-weight: normal } */ - -.small-caps { font-variant: small-caps } -.gesperrt { letter-spacing: 0.1em } - -/* ALIGN */ - -.align-left { clear: left; - float: left; - margin-right: 1em } - -.align-right { clear: right; - float: right; - margin-left: 1em } - -.align-center { margin-left: auto; - margin-right: auto } - -div.shrinkwrap { display: table; } - -/* SECTIONS */ - -body { margin: 5% 10% 5% 10% } - -/* compact list items containing just one p */ -li p.pfirst { margin-top: 0; margin-bottom: 0 } - -.first { margin-top: 0 !important; - text-indent: 0 !important } -.last { margin-bottom: 0 !important } - -span.dropcap { float: left; margin: 0 0.1em 0 0; line-height: 1 } -img.dropcap { float: left; margin: 0 0.5em 0 0; max-width: 25% } -span.dropspan { font-variant: small-caps } - -.no-page-break { page-break-before: avoid !important } - -/* PAGINATION */ - -.pageno { position: absolute; right: 95%; font: medium sans-serif; text-indent: 0 } -.pageno:after { color: gray; content: '[' attr(title) ']' } -.lineno { position: absolute; left: 95%; font: medium sans-serif; text-indent: 0 } -.lineno:after { color: gray; content: '[' attr(title) ']' } -.toc-pageref { float: right } - -@media screen { - .coverpage, .frontispiece, .titlepage, .verso, .dedication, .plainpage - { margin: 10% 0; } - - div.clearpage, div.cleardoublepage - { margin: 10% 0; border: none; border-top: 1px solid gray; } - - .vfill { margin: 5% 10% } -} - -@media print { - div.clearpage { page-break-before: always; padding-top: 10% } - div.cleardoublepage { page-break-before: right; padding-top: 10% } - - .vfill { margin-top: 20% } - h2.title { margin-top: 20% } -} - -/* DIV */ -pre { font-family: monospace; font-size: 0.9em; white-space: pre-wrap } - -</style> -<title>FROM THE CAPE TO CAIRO</title> -<meta name="PG.Rights" content="Public Domain" /> -<meta name="PG.Title" content="From the Cape to Cairo" /> -<meta name="PG.Producer" content="Al Haines" /> -<link rel="coverpage" href="images/img-cover.jpg" /> -<meta name="DC.Creator" content="Ewart S. Grogan" /> -<meta name="DC.Creator" content="Arthur H. Sharp" /> -<meta name="DC.Created" content="1920" /> -<meta name="PG.Id" content="45396" /> -<meta name="PG.Released" content="2014-04-14" /> -<meta name="DC.Language" content="en" /> -<meta name="DC.Title" content="From the Cape to Cairo The First Traverse of Africa from South to North" /> - -<link href="http://purl.org/dc/terms/" rel="schema.DCTERMS" /> -<link href="http://id.loc.gov/vocabulary/relators" rel="schema.MARCREL" /> -<meta content="From the Cape to Cairo The First Traverse of Africa from South to North" name="DCTERMS.title" /> -<meta content="cape.rst" name="DCTERMS.source" /> -<meta content="en" scheme="DCTERMS.RFC4646" name="DCTERMS.language" /> -<meta content="2014-04-15T02:12:14.081739+00:00" scheme="DCTERMS.W3CDTF" name="DCTERMS.modified" /> -<meta content="Project Gutenberg" name="DCTERMS.publisher" /> -<meta content="Public Domain in the USA." name="DCTERMS.rights" /> -<link href="http://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/45396" rel="DCTERMS.isFormatOf" /> -<meta content="Ewart S. Grogan" name="DCTERMS.creator" /> -<meta content="Arthur H. Sharp" name="DCTERMS.creator" /> -<meta content="2014-04-14" scheme="DCTERMS.W3CDTF" name="DCTERMS.created" /> -<meta content="width=device-width" name="viewport" /> -<meta content="EpubMaker 0.3.20 by Marcello Perathoner <webmaster@gutenberg.org>" name="generator" /> -</head> -<body> -<div class="document" id="from-the-cape-to-cairo"> -<h1 class="center document-title level-1 pfirst title"><span class="x-large">FROM THE CAPE TO CAIRO</span></h1> - -<!-- this is the default PG-RST stylesheet --> -<!-- figure and image styles for non-image formats --> -<!-- default transition --> -<!-- default attribution --> -<!-- -*- encoding: utf-8 -*- --> -<div class="clearpage"> -</div> -<!-- -*- encoding: utf-8 -*- --> -<div class="align-None container language-en pgheader" id="pg-header" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> -<p class="noindent pfirst"><span>This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the </span><a class="reference internal" href="#project-gutenberg-license">Project Gutenberg License</a><span> -included with this eBook or online at -</span><a class="reference external" href="http://www.gutenberg.org/license">http://www.gutenberg.org/license</a><span>.</span></p> -<p class="noindent pnext"></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<div class="align-None container" id="pg-machine-header"> -<p class="noindent pfirst"><span>Title: From the Cape to Cairo -<br /> The First Traverse of Africa from South to North -<br /> -<br />Author: Ewart S. Grogan and Arthur H. Sharp -<br /> -<br />Release Date: April 14, 2014 [EBook #45396] -<br /> -<br />Language: English -<br /> -<br />Character set encoding: UTF-8</span></p> -</div> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="noindent pfirst" id="pg-start-line"><span>*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK </span><span>FROM THE CAPE TO CAIRO</span><span> ***</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -<p class="noindent pfirst" id="pg-produced-by"><span>Produced by Al Haines.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 1em"> -</div> -<p class="noindent pfirst"><span></span></p> -</div> -<div class="align-None container frontispiece"> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 3em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst" id="i-advanced-with-outstretched-hand"><span class="bold medium">[Frontispiece: I advanced with outstretched Hand (missing from book)]</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -</div> -<div class="align-None container titlepage"> -<p class="center pfirst"><span class="x-large">From the -<br />Cape to Cairo</span></p> -<p class="center pnext"><span class="large">The First Traverse of -<br />Africa from South to North</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst"><span class="medium">BY -<br />EWART S. GROGAN -<br />AND -<br />ARTHUR H. SHARP</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 3em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst"><span class="medium">T. Nelson & Sons, Ltd.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -</div> -<div class="align-None container verso"> -<p class="center pfirst"><span class="small">copyright info</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 3em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst"><span>extra publisher info</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -</div> -<div class="align-None container dedication"> -<p class="center pfirst"><span class="medium">TO -<br />THE MEMORY OF -<br />THE GREATEST AND MOST FAR-SEEING -<br />OF -<br />BRITISH IMPERIAL STATESMEN,</span></p> -<p class="center pnext"><span class="large">THE RT. HON. CECIL JOHN RHODES,</span></p> -<p class="center pnext"><span class="medium">THIS VOLUME -<br />IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED -<br />BY -<br />EWART SCOTT GROGAN -<br />AND -<br />ARTHUR HENRY SHARP.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -</div> -<p class="noindent pfirst"><span>Government House, -<br />Buluwayo,</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 1em"> -</div> -<p class="noindent pfirst"><span>7th Sept., 1900.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 1em"> -</div> -<p class="noindent pfirst"><span>My Dear Grogan,</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 1em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>You ask me to write you a short introduction for -your book, but I am sorry to say that literary composition -is not one of my gifts, my correspondence and replies being -conducted by telegrams.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>I must say I envy you, for you have done that which has -been for centuries the ambition of every explorer, namely, -to walk through Africa from South to North. The -amusement of the whole thing is that a youth from Cambridge -during his vacation should have succeeded in doing that -which the ponderous explorers of the world have failed to -accomplish. There is a distinct humour in the whole thing. -It makes me the more certain that we shall complete the -telegraph and railway, for surely I am not going to be beaten -by the legs of a Cambridge undergraduate.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Your success the more confirms one's belief. The schemes -described by Sir William Harcourt as "wild cat" you have -proved are capable of being completed, even in that excellent -gentleman's lifetime.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>As to the commercial aspect, every one supposes that the -railway is being built with the only object that a human being -may be able to get in at Cairo and get out at Cape Town.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>This is, of course, ridiculous. The object is to cut Africa -through the centre, and the railway will pick up trade all -along the route. The junctions to the East and West coasts, -which will occur in the future, will be outlets for the traffic -obtained along the route of the line as it passes through the -centre of Africa. At any rate, up to Buluwayo, where I am -now, it has been a payable undertaking, and I still think it -will continue to be so as we advance into the far interior. -We propose now to go on and cross the Zambesi just below -the Victoria Falls. I should like to have the spray of the -water over the carriages.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>I can but finish by again congratulating you, and by -saying that your success has given me great encouragement -in the work that I have still to accomplish.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 1em"> -</div> -<p class="noindent pfirst"><span>Yours, -<br /> C. J. RHODES.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst"><span class="bold large">PREFACE TO NEW EDITION.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 1em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>Since bringing out the first edition of this book, I have -revisited the United States, Australasia, and Argentina in order -that I might again compare the difficulties before us in Africa -with the difficulties which these new countries have already -overcome. I am now more than ever satisfied that its -possibilities are infinitely great. Of the fertility and natural -resources of the country I had no doubt. But two great -stumbling-blocks loomed ahead: they were the prevalence -of malaria and the difficulty of initial development owing -to the dearth of navigable waterways. The epoch-making -studies by Major Ross and other scientists of the influence -of the mosquito on the distribution of malaria have shewn -that we are within measurable distance of largely minimising -its ravages, if not of completely removing it from the -necessary risks of African life. A comparison of the death-rates -in Calcutta, Hong-Kong, and other malarious regions with -the present rates has also proved how immense is the -influence of settlement on climate. As to the other obstacle, -the question of access, I was amazed to find that in the -United States the railways practically have absorbed all the -carrying trade of the magnificent waterways, which intersect -the whole country east of the Rockies. Naturally, these -waterways were of immense assistance in the original opening -up of the country, but now that the railways are constructed, -they are of little importance.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>I would also point out to those who still profess mistrust -of the practical objects of railway construction in Africa, the -object-lesson which the trans-American lines afford. They -were pushed ahead of all settlement into the great unknown -exactly as the Cape to Cairo line is being pushed ahead -to-day. But there is this difference: in America they -penetrated silent wastes tenanted by naught else than the -irreconcilable Redskin, the prairie marmot, and the bison; -while in Africa they pass through lands rich in Nature's -products and teeming with peoples who do not recede before -the white man's march.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Another point: when the main railway system of Africa, -as sketched out by Mr. Rhodes, is complete, there will be -no single point as remote from a port as are some of the -districts in America which are to-day pouring out their -food-stuffs along hundreds of miles of rail.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>In the words of the old Greek, "History is Philosophy -teaching by examples." The world writhes with the -quickening life of change. The tide of our supreme ascendancy -is on the ebb. Nations, like men, are subject to disease. -Let us beware of fatty degeneration of the heart. Luxury -is sweeping away the influences which formed our character. -It is as though our climate has been changed from the bleak -northern winds to the tropic's indolent ease. Yet we have -still a chance. While we sleep, broad tracks have been cut -for us by those whom we revile. Far and wide our outposts -are awake, beckoning to the great army to sweep along the -tracks. Let each man with means and muscles for the fray -go forth at least to see what empire is. Clive, Hastings, -Rhodes, a thousand lesser men whose tombs are known only -to the forest breeze, have left us legacies of which we barely -dream. Millions of miles of timber, metals, coal, lie waiting -for the breath of life, "pegged out" for Britain's sons. In -these our destiny lies. We live but once: let us be able, -when the last summons comes, to say with the greatest of us -all, "Tread me down. Pass on. I have done my work."</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst"><em class="bold italics large">CONTENTS.</em></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 1em"> -</div> -<p class="noindent pfirst"><span class="small">CHAP.</span></p> -<ol class="upperroman simple"> -<li><p class="first noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#the-cape-to-beira-and-the-sabi">The Cape to Beira and the Sabi</a></p> -</li> -<li><p class="first noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#the-pungwe-and-gorongoza-s-plain-second-expedition">The Pungwe and Gorongoza's Plain--Second Expedition</a></p> -</li> -<li><p class="first noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#the-zambezi-and-shire-rivers">The Zambezi and Shiré Rivers</a></p> -</li> -<li><p class="first noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#chiperoni">Chiperoni</a></p> -</li> -<li><p class="first noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#british-central-africa-and-lake-nyassa">British Central Africa and Lake Nyassa</a></p> -</li> -<li><p class="first noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#karonga-to-kituta-across-the-tanganyika-plateau">Karonga to Kituta across the Tanganyika Plateau</a></p> -</li> -<li><p class="first noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#the-chambesi">The Chambesi</a></p> -</li> -<li><p class="first noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#tanganyika">Tanganyika</a></p> -</li> -<li><p class="first noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#the-rusisi-valley">The Rusisi Valley</a></p> -</li> -<li><p class="first noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#lake-kivu">Lake Kivu</a></p> -</li> -<li><p class="first noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#the-volcanoes">The Volcanoes</a></p> -</li> -<li><p class="first noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#mushari-and-its-cannibals">Mushari and its Cannibals</a></p> -</li> -<li><p class="first noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#the-rutchuru-valley-and-the-albert-edward-lake">The Rutchuru Valley and the Albert Edward Lake</a></p> -</li> -<li><p class="first noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#katwe-to-toro">Katwe to Toro</a></p> -</li> -<li><p class="first noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#toro-to-mboga">Toro to Mboga</a></p> -</li> -<li><p class="first noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#semliki-valley-and-kavalli-s-country">Semliki Valley and Kavalli's Country</a></p> -</li> -<li><p class="first noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#albert-lake-and-upper-nile-to-wadelai">Albert Lake and Upper Nile to Wadelai</a></p> -</li> -<li><p class="first noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#wadelai-to-kero">Wadelai to Kero</a></p> -</li> -<li><p class="first noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#kero-to-abu-kuka-and-back-to-bohr">Kero to Abu-Kuka and back to Bohr</a></p> -</li> -<li><p class="first noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#in-dinka-land">In Dinka-land</a></p> -</li> -<li><p class="first noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#in-nuerland">In Nuerland</a></p> -</li> -<li><p class="first noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#the-sobat-to-cairo">The Sobat to Cairo</a></p> -</li> -<li><p class="first noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#the-trans-continental-railway">The Trans-Continental Railway</a></p> -</li> -<li><p class="first noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#native-questions">Native Questions</a></p> -</li> -</ol> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst"><em class="bold italics large">LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</em></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 1em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#i-advanced-with-outstretched-hand">I advanced with outstretched Hand</a><span> (missing from book) . . . </span><em class="italics">Frontispiece</em></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 1em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#it-was-a-gruesome-sight">It was a gruesome Sight</a></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 1em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#and-i-was-compelled-to-stoop-down-and-grope">And I was compelled to stoop down and grope</a></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 1em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#one-or-more-of-the-neighbouring-chiefs-came-to-pay-his-respects">One or more of the neighbouring Chiefs came to pay his Respects</a></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 1em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#on-the-track-of-the-cannibals">On the Track of the Cannibals</a></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 1em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#balegga-waiting-for-elephant">Balegga waiting for Elephant</a></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 1em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#there-were-numbers-of-dinkas-fishing-here">There were numbers of Dinkas fishing here</a></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 1em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#map-of-the-route">Map of the Route</a></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst" id="the-cape-to-beira-and-the-sabi"><span class="bold x-large">FROM THE CAPE TO CAIRO.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 3em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst"><span class="bold large">CHAPTER I.</span></p> -<p class="center pnext"><span class="bold medium">THE CAPE TO BEIRA AND THE SABI.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>To describe the first stage of the route from the Cape -to Cairo, that is to say, as far as the Zambesi, -which I accomplished four years ago, would, if time be -counted by progress, be reverting to the Middle Ages. -The journey to Buluwayo, which meant four dismal -days and three yet more dismal nights, in a most dismal -train, whose engine occasionally went off on its own -account to get a drink, and nine awful days and nine -reckless nights in a Gladstone bag on wheels, labelled coach, -can now be accomplished in, I believe, two and a half -days in trains that rival in comfort the best efforts of -our American cousins. When I think of those awful -hundreds of miles through dreary wastes of sand and -putrefying carcases, the seemingly impossible country -that the Buluwayo road passed through, the water-courses, -the hills, the waterless stages, and the final -oasis, where one could buy a bottle of beer for 10s. 6d., -and a cauliflower for 363., and that now men sit down -to their fresh fish or pheasant for breakfast, where the -old scramble daily took place for a portion of bully beef -and rice; and when I think that the fish and pheasant -epoch is already old history, then I know that the hand -of a mighty wizard is on the country, and that yet one -more name will go down to the coming ages which will -loom big midst the giants that have built up an Empire -such as the world has never seen. When I think, too, of -my numerous friends in the country who have given -their heave, some a great heave, some a little heave, yet -a heave all together, and who toil on unaware of their -own heroism, turning aside as a jest the vituperation of -their countrymen; and when I think how I have seen -the old Viking blood, long time frozen in Piccadilly and -the clubs, burst forth in the old irresistible stream, then -I know that it is good to be an Englishman, and a great -pity fills me for those whose lives are cast in narrow -ways, and who never realise the true significance of -</span><em class="italics">Civis Britannicus sum</em><span>.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>My first experience of Africa was gained in the second -Matabele war, when Rhodesia was yet young. The -railway had only reached Mafeking, and my experiences -were not such as to make me desire a second visit. But -the spirit of the veldt was upon me, and in comfortable -England these trials sank into the misty oblivion of the -past, and a short twelve months after I again started for -those inhospitable shores.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>However, I will not weary the reader with what he has -had dinned into his ears for the last four years, by -describing Rhodesia; nor will I dilate on how, at Lisbon, -through a Bucellas-induced haze, I noticed that all the -men had a patch in their trousers, all the women were -ugly, all the food was dirty, and all the friendly-disposed -were thieves, nor will I hurt the feelings of the Deutsch -Ost Afrika Cie. by telling how badly managed their -boats are; how they are perambulating beershops, -disguised as liners; how conducive to sleep is a ten-strong -brass band at five yards, seized with religious enthusiasm -at 7 a.m. on Sunday morning--all these I will pass over, -knowing that a </span><em class="italics">Cicero redivivus</em><span> alone could do justice -to the theme.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Beyond this, suffice it to say, that on February 28th -of the year of our Lord 1898, Arthur Henry Sharp and -Ewart Scott Grogan, in company of sundry German -officers and beer enthusiasts, took part in the usual -D.O.A.'s Liner manoeuvre of violently charging a -sandbank in the bay of Beira on a flood-tide, to the -ear-smashing accompaniment of the German National -Anthem. In the intervals of waiting to be floated, and -finding out how many of our loads had been lost, we -amused ourselves by catching sharks, which swarmed -round the stern of the vessel. Beira, as every one knows, -is mainly composed of galvanized iron, sun-baked sand, -drinks, and Portuguese ruffians, and is inhabited by a -mixed society of railway employés, excellent fellows, -Ohio wags, and German Jews. The Government -consists of a triumvirate composed of a "king," who also -at odd times imports railways, the British Consul, and -the </span><em class="italics">Beira Post</em><span>, and sundry minor Portuguese officials, -who provide entertainment for the town, such as -volley-firing down the main streets, dredging operations in the -lagoon at the back of the town, bugle-blowing, etc., etc. -The dredging operations and the subsequent depositing -of the mud on the highways were undertaken, I believe, -in a friendly spirit of rivalry as to the death-rate with -Fontesvilla (a salubrious riverside resort about thirty -miles inland); a consequent rise to thirty in one day -established a record that, I believe, is still unbeaten. -There was a Portuguese corvette in the bay, and I had -the pleasure of dining on board; the doctor, a most -charming specimen of the Portuguese gentleman (and a -Portuguese gentleman is a gentleman), helped me to -pass my things through the Custom House, and those -who know Beira will understand what that means. At -Beira I met many old friends, amongst them the -ever-green Mr. Lawley, indefatigable as of yore, and was -surprised to see the immense strides that the town had -made in fourteen months. If it is not washed away some -day, it should become second only in importance to -Delagoa Bay. Before starting north, we determined to -have a few months' shooting, and with this end in view -took train to Umtali with the necessary kit. The new -site of Umtali township is a more commanding position -than the old one, and already a large number of fine -buildings had been put up, but now that the temporary -activity consequent on its being the railway terminus -has passed away, I cannot foresee much future for the -place, as the pick of the mines appear to be over the -new Anglo-Portuguese boundary, and will be worked -from Macequece.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>We decided to try the Sabi, a river running parallel to, -and south of, the Pungwe, having heard great accounts -of the lions in that part; and with this end in view, -hired a wagon, which after many days landed us and -ours at Mtambara's Kraal on the Umvumvumvu, a nice -stream running into the Udzi, which is a tributary of -the Sabi. Mtambara was formerly a chief of considerable -importance, but the advent of the white man has -reduced him to the position of a mere figurehead; he -is a phthisical old gentleman of no physique, decked out -in a dirty patch of cloth and a bandolier of leather and -white beads; he squats and takes snuff, takes snuff and -squats, and had not yet joined the Blue Ribbon Army. -There being no road to the Udzi, we had to send the -wagon back and collect carriers for our loads. Two -days' hard walking brought us to the edge of the high -veldt, whence the path dived down the most fantastic -limestone valley, between high cliffs thickly clothed -with foliage, and topped by rows of square rock pillars, -splashed with the warm tints of the moss and lichens -that festooned their sides. At our feet lay the bush-clad -plain of the Udzi, a carpet of green picked out with -the occasional silver of the river itself, and in the hazy -distance stretched an unbroken range of purple hills, -backed by the silvery green and dull smoke-red of sunset. -On the third day we camped on the Udzi, about six -miles above its junction with the Sabi. The whole -country is covered with low black scrub, and though -there are many impala[#] and small buck, there are very -few large antelopes, so after a few days' inspection we -came to the conclusion that it was not good enough, and -decided to return to Umtali and risk the climate of my -old shooting grounds on the Pungwe.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="noindent pfirst"><span class="small">[#] A small antelope (</span><em class="italics small">Æpyceros melampus</em><span class="small">).</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>Sharp went back by the road to pick up the loads and -sick men at Mtambara's, while I followed up the Udzi -for about twenty miles, and then struck across country -to reach Umtali quickly in order to send out a wagon. -After leaving the river-basin, I camped on a kopje about -1,000 ft. high, where I had one of the finest views it has -ever been my fortune to see.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Beyond the valley lay range upon range of hills, -stretching far as the eye could reach; fleecy clouds -covered the sun, bursting with every conceivable shade, -from delicate rose to deepest purple, backed by that -wondrous green (or is it blue?) that so often in the tropics -accompanies Phoebus to his rest; rarely one may see it -at home in summer-time, as intangible as it is delicate, -and, permeating the whole landscape, a sinuous mesh of -molten red, a ghostly sea from which the peaks reared -their purple silhouettes, until they faded into the -uncertainty of lilac mists, like some billowy sea nestling -to the bosom of the storm-cloud. From here I walked -to Umtali, a distance of sixty miles, in nineteen hours, -as I was anxious about the sick men at Mtambara's, and -long will the ripple of the ensuing brandy-and-soda linger -in my memory. After securing the services of a wagon, -I had to lay up for a couple of days with fever and a bad -foot, but turned out for a concert given as a -house-warming by the latest hotel. It was a typical South -African orgie, in a long, low, wooden room, plainly -furnished with deal tables, packed to overflowing with the -most cosmopolitan crowd imaginable, well-bred 'Varsity -men rubbing shoulders with animal-faced Boers, -leavened with Jews, parasites, bummers, nondescripts, and -every type of civilized savage. Faces yellow with fever, -faces coppered by the sun, faces roseate with drink, and -faces scarred, keen, money-lustful, and stamped with -every vice and some of the virtues; a substratum of -bluff, business advertisement, -pat-on-the-back-kick-you-when-you're-not-looking -air permeated everything, -and keen appreciation of both musical garbage and real -talent.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Starting for Salisbury, where I wanted to look up some -old friends, I was made the victim of one of those subtle -little jests so much appreciated by many of the petty -officials in South Africa, who are for ever reminding one -of their importance. I turned up at three, the -advertised time for the coach's departure, and, finding no -mules or signs of activity, learned that (being an official -case) three meant three Cape time, or four Umtali time. -So I went back to my hotel, and again turning up at ten -to four, found that the coach had left at a quarter to -four without blowing the bugle, and knowing that there -was one passenger short; this necessitated a nine-mile -walk to old Umtali in the rain, which, after three days' -fever, was very enjoyable. The company, a pleasant -one, was somewhat marred by the presence of a fat Jew -of the most revolting type; unkempt curly black hair, -lobster-like, bloodshot eyes with the glazed expression -peculiar to tipplers and stale fish, a vast nose -pronouncedly Bacchanalian, the hues of which varied from yellow -through green to livid purple, and lips that would shame -any negro, purple as the extremity of the nose, a small, -straggling moustache and a runaway chin, the whole -plentifully smeared with an unpleasant exudation, kept -perpetually simmering by his anxiety lest some one -should steal a march on him, made a loathsome </span><em class="italics">tout -ensemble</em><span> that is by no means rare in South Africa. The -way that creature fought for food! Well! I have seen -hyænas and negroes fighting for food, but never such -hopelessly abandoned coarseness as he displayed at -every meal on the road, and for no apparent reason, as -there was plenty for all, and by general consent he had -the monopoly of any dish that he touched.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Salisbury, which is quite the aristocratic resort of -Rhodesia, had made very little progress during my -eighteen months' absence, though there had been some -activity in the mining districts. The business of -ferreting out the murderers in the late rebellion was still -proceeding, and I saw about thirty condemned negroes -in the gaol, and more were daily added. I went to one -of the sittings and saw so many gruesome relics, burnt -pipes, charred bones, skulls, etc., that I did not repeat -my visit. I was forcibly struck by the absolute justice -meted out: the merest technicality of law or the -faintest shade of doubt sufficing for acquittal. Many -of the natives in custody thus escaped, although their -guilt was certain and well known. My return journey -to Umtali was enlivened by the company of one of the -civic dignitaries of Salisbury, who was going to "give -it hot to Rhodes," shake him up a bit, and generally put -things straight. In one day I had the whole future -policy of Rhodesia and all outstanding difficulties like -labour, etc., disposed of as though they were the merest -bagatelles. So struck was I with the masterly grasp of -gigantic questions that I fell into a profound slumber, -whereupon, realizing that after all I was but an ordinary -mortal, and consequently possessed of but ordinary -intelligence, he roused me, and in five minutes sketched -out a plan that would make my intended trip north a -certain success; this, with more personal advice on a -score of points, lasted till Umtali, where we found -so-called celebrations in full swing. These celebrations (or -barmen's benefits, as they should more appropriately be -called) are of common occurrence, and are invariably -got up on any sort of excuse; they take the outward -form of a few pieces of bunting, and result in every one -but the licensed few finding themselves next morning -considerably poorer, and in an abnormal demand for -Seidlitz powders. Society at Umtali groups itself into -two classes, those who have liquor and those who have -not, and each class into three divisions: first, a small -number who have killed lions and say very little about -it; secondly, a large number of persons who have not -killed lions, but tell you they have, and say much about -it; and thirdly, a very large number who have not killed -lions, but think it necessary to apologize for the fact by -telling you that they have not lost any.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst" id="the-pungwe-and-gorongoza-s-plain-second-expedition"><span class="bold large">CHAPTER II.</span></p> -<p class="center pnext"><span class="bold medium">THE PUNGWE AND GORONGOZA'S PLAIN.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span class="small">"The bulky, good-natured lion, whose only means of defence are the -natural ones of tooth and claw, has no chance against the jumping little -rascal, who pops behind a bush and pokes a gun straight at the bigger -brute's heart."--MARIE CORELLI.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>Instead of following the Urema as on a previous -trip, we marched up the Pungwe almost as far as -Sarmento, an old Portuguese settlement, and then struck -off north to a long lagoon that lies on the western -extremity of Gorongoza's plain. Here we found enormous -quantities of game, thousands of wildebeeste and zebra, -and many impala, waterbuck, and hartebeeste. At night -a hyæna came and woke us up by drinking the soapy -water in our indiarubber bath, which was lying just -outside our tent. We turned out and drove him away, but -had no sooner climbed into our beds again than he -returned and bolted with the bath, and, before we could -make him drop it, had mauled it to such an extent that -it was of no further use.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>As after the first night we heard no lions, we decided to -move across to the Urema. On the way we sighted three -eland, but though Sharp and I chased them for about -eight miles we were unsuccessful.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Towards the Urema the plain opens out to a great -width and becomes very swampy, and as the water had -just subsided, it was covered with short sweet grass. -Here we saw between 40,000 and 50,000 head of game, -mostly wildebeeste, which opened out to let us pass and -then closed in again behind. It was a wonderful sight; -vast moving masses of life, as far as the eye could reach. -A fortnight later they had eaten up the grass, and most -of them were scattered about the surrounding country. -Some of the swamps were very bad, and we were finally -compelled to camp in the middle far from any wood.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The next day we struck camp and marched up the -Urema to a belt of trees which we could see in the -distance. Several good streams, the most important being -the Umkulumadzi, flow down from the mountains, and -meandering across the plain, empty themselves into the -Urema. Sharp and I went on ahead of our caravan, -and keeping well to the south-west to avoid swamps, -came on a nice herd of buffalo which we stalked. At -our shots a few turned off into some long tufts of grass, -while the main body went straight away. One, -evidently sick, came edging towards us, and I gave him two -barrels, Sharp doing likewise; I then gave him two -more and dropped him. I kept my eye on where he lay -as we advanced to get a shot at the others, who had -again stood about 100 yards farther on, and he suddenly -rose at thirty yards and charged hard, nose in air, foaming -with blood, and looking very nasty. I put both barrels -in his chest without the slightest effect, and then started -for the river, doing level time and shouting to Sharp to -do likewise; all the crocodiles in the universe seemed -preferable to that incarnation of hell. But Sharp had -not yet learnt his buffalo, and waited for him. I heard -a shot, and stopped in time to see the beast stagger for -a second with a broken jaw, then come on in irresistible -frenzy; but still Sharp stood as though to receive a -cavalry charge, crack rang out the rifle, and the great -brute came pitching forward on to its nose, and rolled -within three yards of Sharp's feet with a broken fetlock. -It was a magnificent sight, and the odd chance in a -hundred turned up. Now Sharp knows his buffalo, and -is prepared to back himself, when one turns nasty, to -do his hundred in 9-4/5 seconds.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Except an elephant, there is nothing harder to stop -than a charging buffalo, as, when once he has made up -his mind, he means business; there is no turning him, -and if he misses he will round and come again and hunt -a man down like a dog. Holding his head in the air as -he does in practice, and not low down as in the picture-books, -he gives no mark except the chest, which is rarely -a dropping shot. Having hacked off his head (the -buffalo's), we went in pursuit of our caravan, and found -that Mahony had pitched camp in the most perfect spot -imaginable. A strip of open park-like bush ran down -from the mountains, cutting the vast Gorongoza plain -into two portions, and abutting on the river, where it had -spread into a small lagoon with banks 20 ft. high. -Beyond lay another plain stretching away to the bush that -lies at the foot of the ridge which runs north and south, -and is the watershed of the Urema and the coast. In -all directions from our camp we could see herds of game -grazing. Flocks of fowl flighted up and down the watercourse, -huge crocodiles leered evilly at us as they floated -like logs on the oily water, broken only by the -plomp-plomp of the numerous fish, and now and then the head -of a mud-turtle rose like a ghost from below, without -even a ripple, drew a long hissing breath, and as silently -vanished. As there was lions' spoor by the water, we -strolled out after tea and dropped a brace of zebra by -the edge of the bush. After an eventful night, during -which leopards coughed, lions roared, hyænas dashed -into camp and bolted with my best waterbuck head, we -all turned out early. Sharp went down the river, -while Mahony and I went to our baits. The first had -completely vanished, and the second had been dragged -some three hundred yards under the shade of a -palm-tree. Here we picked up the spoor of a big lion, who -had evidently got our wind as we left camp. We -followed for about a mile along the bush, when Mahony -saw him watching us round the corner of an ant-hill. -The lion, seeing that he was observed, doubled like a -flash, and before Mahony could fire, had dashed into a -small patch of thick jungle. We lost no time in -following, and were carefully picking our way through the -undergrowth, when I heard a deep grunt about twenty -yards to my right, and saw him, tail straight in the air, -vanishing through the bush. Mahony rushed along the -jungle; while I made a desperate burst through the -thorn into the open. I just caught a glimpse of the lion -going through the scattered palms towards the open -plain. When I reached the end of the palms, he was -going hard about two hundred yards away. Using the -double .500 magnum, I removed his tooth with the first -barrel, and with the second pulled him up short with a -shot in the hind leg. Mahony then arrived on the scene -and gave him a .500, while I finished him off with two -shots from the .303. He was a very old lion with his -teeth much broken, but had a good mane, and measured -as he lay from tip to tip 9 ft. 10-½ in.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>As the moon was now full, I determined to sit up, -and having killed a zebra close to two small palms, I -built a screen of palm-leaves and awaited events. The -first two nights nothing came but mosquitoes, and the -third night two hunting dogs turned up, but I didn't fire -for fear of disturbing some lions which I could hear in -the distance. These dogs are very beautiful animals -with long bushy tails. They hunt in large packs, and -must destroy an immense quantity of game. Shortly -after the dogs had vanished a lion came to the jungle -which was about four hundred yards away, and -apparently detecting my scent, in spite of the competition -of the zebra, which was three days old, vented his -disapproval in three stupendous roars. This is one of the -few occasions on which I heard a lion really roar, though -every night for months I have heard packs of them in -all directions. The usual cry is a sort of vast sigh taken -up by the chorus with a deep sob, sob, sob, or a curious -rumbling noise. The true roar is indescribable. It is -so deceptive as to distance, and seems to permeate the -whole universe, thundering, rumbling, majestic. There -is no music in the world so sweet. Let me recommend -it to the Wagner school! Thousands of German devotees, -backed by thousands of beers, could never approach -the soul-stirring glory of one </span><em class="italics">Felis leo</em><span> at home. I then -heard him going away to the north, rumbling to -himself at intervals, and at 5 a.m. left my scherm[#] and -started in pursuit, hoping to come up with him at -daybreak in the plain. I could still hear his occasional -rumblings, and, taking a line by the moon, made terrific -pace. After leaving the ridge, I plunged into a dense -bank of fog that lay on the plain, but still managed to -keep my line, as the moon showed a lurid red and -remained visible till sunrise. The lion had stopped his -meditations for some time, and imperceptibly the light -of day had eaten into the fog, when suddenly my -gun-boy "Rhoda" gripped me by the arm, his teeth -chattering like castanets, and said that he saw the lion in -front. At the same instant I thought that I saw a body -moving in the mist about seventy yards away, now -looking like an elephant, now like a jackal. Then the mist -swirled round, wrapping it in obscurity once more. I -followed carefully, when suddenly an eddy in the fog -disclosed a male lion thirty yards away, wandering along -as if the whole world belonged to him. He rolled his -head from side to side, swished his tail, poked his nose -into every bunch of grass, then stopped and stood -broadside on. I raised the .500, but found that I had -forgotten to remove the bunch of cloth which served -for a night sight, and, before this was remedied, the -chance was gone. Again I followed and again he turned, -when I dropped him with a high shoulder shot. As the -grass was only 3 in. high and the lion not more than -thirty yards distant, we lay flat and awaited the turn -of events. He lashed out, tearing up the ground with -his paws, then stood up and looked like going away. I -fired again. This gave him my whereabouts. He swung -round and began stalking towards me to investigate -matters, so I snatched my .500 and knocked him over -with one in the chest. We then retired to a more -respectful distance. But he rose again, and once more -I fired. Still he fought on, rolling about, rumbling, -groaning, and making frantic efforts to rise, till I crept -up close and administered a .303 forward shot in the -stomach, which settled him. He died reluctantly even -then. It is astonishing how difficult lions are to kill, -if the first shot is not very well placed. I attribute it -to the fact that after the first shot there is practically -no subsequent shock to the system. This is especially -remarkable in the larger brutes, such as the elephant, -rhino, or buffalo. If the first shot is misplaced, one -can fire shot after shot, even through the heart, without -immediate effect. He was a good lion, in the prime of -life, with mane, teeth, and claws perfect.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="noindent pfirst"><span class="small">[#] Fence or screen.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>Sharp meanwhile had been making his first acquaintance -with that ingenious device of the devil's, the -jigger,[#] which confined him to the camp for a week with -a very ugly foot.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="noindent pfirst"><span class="small">[#] </span><em class="italics small">The jigger</em><span class="small">, the "pulex penetrans."</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>Mahony, who had gone down-river, saw a male lion, -but failed to stop him with a long shot, but the next -day in the same place came unexpectedly on two -lionesses, both of which he wounded. As they took refuge -in the grass, which was very extensive and thick, and -he saw a cub, he sent into camp for another gun. Sharp -turned out in spite of his foot, and I followed immediately -when I returned to camp and found the note. After a -hard spurt of six miles, I met them coming back in -triumph with the pelt of one lioness and five small rolls -of fur and ferocity slung on poles. The cubs had been -captured with difficulty. One only succumbed after -being bowled over with a sun helmet. They were great -fun in camp, and throve amazingly on cooked liver, of -which they devoured enormous quantities. Two of -them were males, and three of them (one male and -two females[#]) are now disporting themselves in the -Society's Gardens in Regent's Park.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="noindent pfirst"><span class="small">[#] One female has since died.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>Hoping to see something of the other lioness or the -lion I returned to the same place next day, and after -examining the neighbourhood of the grass, pushed on -still farther to the centre of the swamp. In this swamp -the river spreads out into a vast network of channels, -with a small central lagoon. Owing to the dryness of -the season, it was possible to cross most of the channels, -which were then merely mud-troughs, and to reach the -lagoon, which was about four hundred yards wide. -Here I witnessed a most extraordinary sight. About -fifty hippo were lying about in the water, and on the -banks. As the water was not in most parts deep enough -to cover them, they presented the appearance of so -many huge seals basking in the sun. They climbed in -and out, strolled about, rolled in, splashing, shouting, -blowing, and entirely ignoring my presence. After -watching them for some time, I sent my boys to the far -end to drive them past. The boys yelled and threw -stones at them. Suddenly the hippo took alarm and -rushed </span><em class="italics">en masse</em><span> for the narrow channel of the waterway. -Down this they swarmed, kicking the water 30 ft. in -the air, throwing their heads back, roaring, thundering, -and crashing along, while I stood on the bank at twenty -yards and took photographs, all of which unfortunately -failed.</span></p> -<div class="align-center auto-scaled figure margin" style="width: 100%" id="figure-73"> -<span id="it-was-a-gruesome-sight"></span><img class="align-center block" style="display: block; width: 100%" alt="It was a gruesome Sight." src="images/img-033.jpg" /> -<div class="caption centerleft figure-caption margin"> -<span class="italics">It was a gruesome Sight.</span></div> -</div> -<p class="pnext"><span>The banks of every channel and mud-hole were lined -with huge yellow masses of crocodiles; thousands and -thousands of wildfowl (mainly Egyptian and spur-wing -geese), which were nesting in the hippo holes, kept up a -ceaseless din; herds and herds of game appeared as -though dancing in the mirage, and the whole scene -was one to delight the heart of a lover of nature. -There indeed one felt one was far from the madding -crowd.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>During the night we were awakened by the most -terrific yells, and found that some crocodiles had gone -into the boys' quarters. Fortunately they contented -themselves with removing about two hundredweight of -meat.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>As the lions appeared to have left the country, we -moved up the river to our original camp for a week to -give the plain a rest, and bagged an eland. Sharp -secured a good lioness in the lion donga.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>On our return I shot a zebra for bait in the strip of -bush. Turning out somewhat reluctantly at 5.30 a.m. with -no hopes of success, as the lions had been very quiet -all night, I was cutting the wind rather fine when I saw -a number of birds sitting at a respectful distance from -the carcase. Approaching cautiously, I saw some brute -apparently pulling at something, but could not see -clearly what it was, as it was still more or less dark. I -knew it must be a lion from its bulk, yet dared not think -so. I retraced my steps for the wind and crept up to -within sixty yards under cover of a stunted palm. Peering -cautiously round, I saw, in the middle of a circle of -some two hundred vultures, a grand old lion, leisurely -gnawing the ribs. Behind him were four little jackals -sitting in a row. It would be difficult to imagine a more -perfect picture. In the background stretched the limitless -plain, streaked with mists shimmering in the growing -light of the rising sun. Clumps of graceful palms fenced -in a sandy arena where the zebra had fallen. Round its -attenuated remains, just out of reach of the swish of the -monarch's tail, was a solid circle of waiting vultures, -craning their bald necks, chattering and hustling one -another. The more daring quartette sat within the -magic circle like four little images of patience, while the -lion in all his might and matchless grandeur of form, -leisurely chewed and scrunched the tit-bits, magnificently -regardless of the watchful eyes of the encircling -</span><em class="italics">canaille</em><span>. Loath to break the spell, I watched the scene -for fully ten minutes, then, as he showed signs of moving, -I took the chance afforded of a broadside shot and -bowled him over with the .500 magnum. I tried to reload -but the gun jammed. The lion rose, and after looking -round for the cause of the interruption, without success, -started off at a gallop. With a desperate effort I closed -the gun and knocked him over again. He was a fine -black-maned lion, and measured as he lay in a straight -line from tip to tip 10 ft. 4 in.--a very unusual length.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Another morning, taking an early stroll, I met an old -cow hippo and a calf, wandering about far from the -river. I accompanied them for some time watching -them, but when I caught the youngster by the tail the -old lady turned round in answer to its squeals, and -opening her mouth to its fullest extent, some 6 ft., gave -vent to a terrific roar, which reminded me that it was -breakfast-time. On another occasion presumably the -same pair strolled past within one hundred yards of -our breakfast-table, but they out-distanced the boys -who went in pursuit, and plunged into the river, easy -winners.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>As Sharp had shot a brace of hippo in our pool, we -had them dragged out on to the sandbank opposite, and -built a grass screen at the lower end of the hippo tunnel -which led down through the bush from the high ground -above the river. Fortunately, as it afterwards -transpired, we took the precaution to block up the top -entrance with stones. Here Sharp and I posted -ourselves for the night in hopes of lions. When all was -quiet, scores of vast crocodiles came out of the pool, and -so successfully did they rend and tear the huge carcases -that in the morning nothing remained but a few bones. -It was a gruesome sight, the great loathsome reptiles -tearing vast blocks of hide like brown paper, then -crawling away to digest their morsel, then again advancing to -the attack, while a row of hyænas sat silhouetted against -the sky on the high bank opposite, or trotted uneasily to -and fro, moaning and howling unceasingly, yet fearing -to approach the evil mass of reptiles. Crowds of -mosquitoes and sandflies added their plaintive song. -Suddenly with a mighty rush five hippo dashed down the -bank, then, recovering from their alarm, strolled quietly -by at five yards, the moonlight gleaming white on their -wet backs.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Having heard some lions at sunrise to the east I -started in pursuit, and, following along an extensive -dry donga that cut through the plain, found some fresh -spoor which I lost in the endless sea of dry long grass -that covered the greater part of the plain. This I fired, -and then came round by the river, hoping to see some -of them if they were driven from their cover. When -nearly home I saw a lion stand up in the low scrub -about a thousand yards away. He had our wind, and -started across the bare plain at a gallop, making for the -long grass. I set off in hot pursuit with my gun-boy. -When the lion stopped to look I stopped, hoping that -he would think I was not following him. Whereupon -my boy, who would never learn the trick, sailed -gracefully over my shoulder. The lion, apparently taking -us for some harmless mountebanks, slackened his -pace, and only reached the grass about five hundred -yards ahead of me. Rushing in on his tracks, I was -fortunate enough to catch a glimpse of his mane above -the grass, as he crossed a place where the grass was -rather shorter than elsewhere. He had turned at right -angles from his course, and had ceased to worry -himself about me. Following hard, I got a chance at sixty -yards, and knocked him over with a shot from the .500 -magnum high on the shoulder. Owing to the smoke, -the lack of landmarks, and the height of the grass -(about 4 ft. 6 in.), I lost his exact whereabouts, and -after slipping in another cartridge, walked past him. -He suddenly rose at twenty-five yards and charged -straight. The incredible rapidity of his onslaught and -the cover afforded by the grass rendered aiming -impossible. I merely swung the gun on him and dropped -him at four yards with a shot in the neck, then hastily -retired. After waiting for some time and hearing no -sound, I again advanced, this time with the greatest -caution. I could soon distinguish his shoulder at ten -yards between the grass. Not wishing to damage his -skin unnecessarily, I took my small rifle and fired at his -shoulder. The shot had hardly struck when he again -rose and charged like lightning. Another lucky shot -from the second barrel, which entered the old wound, -laid him out. His head was within three yards of my -feet. Even then he would not die, although unable -to rise, and it needed three more shots to finish him. -This was the first time I had been charged by a lion, -and I was amazed at the incredible rapidity of their -movements. My respect for friend lion increased a -thousandfold.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The following day was evidently a lion's holiday, for -Mahony and I, following the river to where I had dropped -a zebra, put up two lionesses out of some scrub. I hit -them both with a right and left. Mahony also hit one, -which we secured. But the other one crossed the -river, making a clean jump of 34 ft., and reached a large -patch of long grass where we lost her. The wind dropped, -and consequently the grass would not burn. Nor could -we follow her spoor. Sharp, crossing the plain to the -Umkulumadzi, met a lion and a lioness, and killed the -lion with a shot in the neck. On his way home he met -another lion, and with a shot at ten yards from the -10-bore removed a bunch of the mane. The lion jumped -into a small patch of impassable reed from which he -could not be induced to move, so was wisely allowed to -stay, as handling a gun inside would have been -impossible. This was our grand finale at lion camp, and -we again moved to our old spot by the water-hole in -the jungle, but without success.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The variation in the Lichtenstein hartebeeste was -very remarkable, the type in this jungle being a heavy -beast without face markings, the frontal bone very -prominent and the white rump indistinct, while near -Gorongoza's hills they were smaller, had a white blaze -on the forehead, and were without the peculiar frontal -prominence, the rump, too, being very white. The -nocturnal attentions of the hyænas were most annoying, -diabolical peals of laughter in rapid succession making -sleep almost impossible. Failing to find buffalo, we -again marched up the Pungwe, and to the lagoon where -we had started proceedings.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The first morning after losing a splendid eland, in -company with Mahony, I met a fretful porcupine taking -his morning constitutional. We waited till he walked -within five yards and then gave chase. For a time the -pace was hot, till I headed him off, and grabbed him, -by the long hair on his neck, which promptly gave way -(I mean the hair). I was again closing on him, when he -suddenly backed, driving one quill through my boot, -1-½ in. through my little toe, and a dozen others into -my leg, one through the tendon. One of my boys -was badly mangled in a similar manner, and it was only -after giving the fretful one a playful tap on the skull -that we made him fast. I regret to say that two days -afterwards he died.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>As the officials of a so-called Gorongoza Development -Co., with its headquarters on the Dingi-Dingi, -had seized our boys on their way to Fontesvilla with -trophies, and ill-used them, we marched to the Pungwe, -where I branched off to arrange matters, the others -following the river towards Sarmento. I found seven -or eight yellow-visaged creatures, a Portuguese-French -mixture, who in three years had disposed of a capital of, -I believe, some hundreds of thousands of francs, with -the stupendous result of an asset comprising about fifty -acres of castor oil (one of the most ineradicable weeds of -the country). The Governor, who was very polite, told -me that he was entitled to levy shooting licences, and -after some talk we closed the matter with a payment -of £10, which I should advise the shareholders of the -Gorongoza Development Co. to keep an eye on, as it is -the only return they are ever likely to see. He also told -me that he should like a lion hunt, and had even sat -up by his fowl-house for that purpose. Not long after -we met him, vinously inclined, in Beira--the cheque had -been cashed. On the Pungwe we watched some native -blacksmiths at work. Several of their tools were very -ingenious.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Again we marched north, and striking the Pungwe -by Tiga's Kraal, crossed the island and the Dingi-Dingi, -and eventually camped at the junction of a broad sandy -river with the Urema. Sharp bagged a good buffalo -with a 42-inch head the first night; and the following -morning we found that a male lion had visited the -carcase, but retired before our arrival. We tossed up -as to who should sit up that night, and I was unlucky -enough to win; unlucky, in that I spent one of the -most awful nights it has ever been my lot to endure. -Having built a small platform, 6 ft. from the ground, -I repaired thither with a thick blanket at sunset. Soon -about thirty hyænas appeared, and continued fighting, -snarling, and uttering diabolical yells all night; while -battalions of mosquitoes refreshed themselves at my -expense, biting my knees, even through a camel's-hair -blanket and flannel trousers.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>At last, about an hour before dawn, I fell asleep, and -was awakened at sunrise by a scuffling noise behind me. -I turned round, on murder intent, expecting to find a -belated hyæna, and beheld, ten yards away, a grand -old lion slowly dragging the carcase under the shade of -a tree. Still half asleep, I reached for the 10-bore, and -killed him with a shot high on the shoulder, and went -back to breakfast, feeling thoroughly ashamed of myself. -I consider sitting up over a bait an unpardonable form -of murder, if there is the remotest possibility of shooting -a beast in fair hunt.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>A few days later, when on the way to our camp in -the jungle, I overshot the track in some long grass, -and spent a terrible day in consequence. I could not -be certain that I had crossed it, or if I had crossed, of -not doing so again if I returned. The only safe course -was to follow some definite direction. I judged the -whereabouts of the junction of the Gorongoza plain -and the Urema, and went straight ahead through thick -and thin. Some of the bush was terrible, and the only -way to pass was by climbing along the boughs of the -trees above. The experience gave me a clear idea of -how people lose themselves irretrievably, as I found it -needed a tremendous effort of will to compel myself to -go on and on. The temptation to try another direction -is almost invincible, and nothing is easier than to lose -one's nerves on these occasions. However, I at length -emerged, torn and bleeding from head to foot, and -throwing myself into the river, regardless of crocodiles, -lay there, drinking in the water through every pore. -Much refreshed, but with the unpleasant prospect of -spending the night there, I climbed up on to the path -that runs along the river-bank, and saw to my amazement -the spoor of two horses; this I followed up; and -half an hour later, as it was getting too dark to see, I -caught the glimmer of a fire in the distance. Here I -found Mr. H. S. H. Cavendish of Lake Rudolph fame, -and Mr. Dodson of the British Museum, who had just -arrived on a shooting trip.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>After an uncomfortable night in a horse's nose-bag -and a cloud of mosquitoes, I hurried to my camp to -relieve Sharp's anxiety, meeting a search-party of -natives on the road. Next day I returned to Cavendish, -to see how the fever from which he was suffering had -progressed. During lunch a native rushed in, saying -that he had been bitten by a night-adder (one of the -most deadly snakes in Africa). I promptly collared him -by the arm, stopped the circulation with some string, -slit his finger crosswise with my pocket-knife, exploded -some gunpowder in the cut, while Dodson administered -repeated subcutaneous injections of permanganate of -potash. Meanwhile the arm, chest, and left side swelled -to the most appalling proportions. Cavendish then -appeared on the scene with a bottle of whisky, three -parts of which we poured down his throat. Then we -told off three strong men to run the patient round the -camp till he subsided like a log into a drunken stupor. -The following morning he was still alive, but the -swelling was enormous, and the colour of his nails indicated -incipient gangrene. Not knowing what else to do, we -put a pot on the fire, and made a very strong solution -of the permanganate which we kept gently simmering, -while six stalwart natives forced the unfortunate's hand -in and out. His yells were fearful, but the cure was -complete. The swelling rapidly subsided, the nails -resumed their normal colour, and the following morning, -with the exception of the loss of the skin of his hand, he -was comparatively well.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>A note from Sharp informed me that the Portuguese -ruffians of the Gorongoza Development Co. had again -raided our camp when he was out shooting, had -removed the whole concern, beaten, threatened to shoot, -and eventually made prisoners of all our boys.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>This considerate proceeding they repeated with -Mr. Illingworth's party. Needless to remark, our protests -were received by the British Consul with the diplomatic -interest due to the subject, a request to formulate them -on paper, and an intimation that our trouble would be -superfluous, as nothing could be done.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Having heard that another Portuguese official, who -was reported to be looking for me, was in the vicinity, I -asked him to come to dinner. Whereupon he refrained -from arresting me, and asked me to stay with him -instead; accordingly I returned with him to his station, -and the following morning marched into Fontesvilla and -caught the train to Beira, where I found Sharp busy -packing and sending off the trophies.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst" id="the-zambezi-and-shire-rivers"><span class="bold large">CHAPTER III.</span></p> -<p class="center pnext"><span class="bold medium">THE ZAMBESI AND SHIRÉ RIVERS.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>Though very loath to leave our happy hunting-grounds, -we had to tear ourselves away and make -preparations for the long march north, so went down -to Durban to lay in a few necessaries, an extra .303 in -case of accidents, and to obtain the time and rate of -our chronometer from the observatory.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>On our return to Beira we embarked on the </span><em class="italics">Peters</em><span> -for Chinde, finding as fellow-passengers the Congo -Telegraph Expedition under Mr. Mohun--six white men, -one hundred Zanzibaris, thirty donkeys, and a few -cows, etc.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>To our horror, on disembarking the next day, we -found that all our heavy luggage, tents, etc., had been -put on the wrong boat at Beira, and were on their -way to Delagoa Bay. As the telegraph line is generally -in a state of collapse, owing to the white ants eating -the posts, and to vagaries on the part of the Portuguese -or natives, it took some days to inform the agent.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Chinde offers no attractions except to those who are -waiting for a home-going boat, so we made up our minds -to go on to Chiromo, and have a little shooting till our -things turned up, and we could proceed on our journey.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The African Lakes Corporation, to whom we had -consigned a splendid full-plate camera, denied any -knowledge of it. We afterwards found that it had -passed through their hands, and had been stowed on -a sunny and rain-swept verandah for three months, -with a result that may be imagined. They had also -inadvertently overlooked thirty of our cases of -provisions, which we found at the last moment in their -store.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Having borrowed a tent from Mr. Mohun, and being -tired of sardines as a staple article of diet, we made a -start up-river, only to find ourselves worse off afloat -than we had been ashore, the Company we had the -misfortune to travel by having apparently realized how -to provide the minimum of comfort with the maximum -of charge.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>On each side of the steamer a barge was made fast, -so progress was not rapid. It was the dry season. -The river was very low, and intervals of rest on -sandbanks were of frequent occurrence. The banks being -very high, one very rarely saw the neighbouring country. -No game was ever to be seen, while on the broad river -only an occasional native canoe or a gunboat, bustling -down-stream, broke the monotony.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Every night the boat tied up to lay in a supply of -wood, sometimes near a native village, and occasionally -near a sugar plantation; at the latter we were -generally given some green vegetables, which were a -great boon.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The water is pumped up from the river and distributed -by channels over the cane-swamps, and in the time to -come, as more of the river-banks are taken up by these -Sugar Concessions, this drain on the water will make a -considerable difference to navigation in the dry season.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Amongst the legitimate productions of the cane, they -here manufacture Scotch whisky, the labels and bottles -being imported from the home markets in large -quantities. The most important estate is managed by a -French company, superintended by ten Europeans -(mainly French). The system of irrigation is very -complete, and the work of cleaning is done by -steam-ploughs, managed, of course, by Scotchmen. Mills are -in course of erection, and the bottles, thistle and all -complete, will soon be in requisition. Three hundred -hectares are already planted, and the Company intend -immediately planting five hundred more.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>There is another important Sugar Company, owned by -the Portuguese and managed by a Scotchman. The -output from its extensive plantations during the season, -which lasts three months, amounts to one hundred and -twenty tons a week.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>It is a dreary, hot, monotonous journey.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The river is most uninteresting, of great breadth, with -low grass-covered banks and destitute of trees, except -near the delta, where there are some thriving cocoanut -plantations. The stream is cut up by numerous islands -and sandbanks, haunted by vast flocks of geese, pelicans, -and flamingoes.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>At Senna there are a few miserable huts, and a few -yet more miserable Portuguese, and at Songwe there is an -Indian settlement, where there is some trade from the -interior.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>On reaching the Shiré we were transferred to an -animated tea-tray, by courtesy called a steamer, which -carried us to Chiromo. The food for five Europeans for two -and a half days consisted of one ancient duck, three skinny -fowls, and a few tins of sardines. There was no bread, -butter, milk, or Worcester sauce, without which life, or -rather native cookery, is intolerable. Luckily, at the -villages on the way we were able to buy fowls, eggs, and -tomatoes.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Before reaching Chiromo we put in at the first -B.C.A. post, Port Herald, where dusky Napoleons ponder over -wild orgies of the past. A broad road planted with shade -trees leads up to the collector's house, and cross-roads, -similarly planted, give quite a pleasant appearance to -the place, backed in the distance by a high mountain.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Chiromo is laid out at the junction of the Ruo and -Shiré rivers, while on the north-west side the station is -hemmed in by the vast Elephant Marsh, now a closed -game preserve, owing to the inconsiderate slaughter in -time past. Lions can be heard almost every night, and -the day previous to our arrival a lion appeared in the -town in broad daylight, and carried off a native. Though -the available population turned out to slay, he escaped -untouched. Many shots were fired at him from many -varieties of guns, and the range varied from five to five -hundred yards. But still he wandered round, the least -excited individual in the place. Eventually the Nimrod -of Chiromo, who arrived late, hurt his feelings by -tumbling off a tree on to his back. This was too much, and -he majestically stalked off into the Marsh, wondering at -the inscrutable ways of men.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Leopard spoor was also a common sight in the street -in the morning, while in the Ruo the crocodiles lived an -easy life, with unlimited black meat at their command -near the bathing-places.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>From its position, the town is the inland port of British -Central Africa, and with the fast-growing coffee industry -will become a place of considerable importance. Already -the building plots command a high price, and stands are -being eagerly bought up by the African Flotilla -Company and Sharrers' Transport Company, who are rapidly -ousting the African Lakes Corporation from their position -of hitherto unquestioned monopolists. There are also -several German traders who display considerable activity, -apparently with satisfactory results, and there are rumours -of a coffee combination, financed by a prominent German -East Coast firm, making their headquarters here.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>A large estate on the right bank of the Shiré, called -Rosebery Park, is owned by the African Flotilla -Company, which makes excellent bricks, and opposite the -town a fibre-extracting company has started work. The -company has obtained Foulke's patent fibre-cleaning -machine, and a concession of the fibre-gathering rights -over all Crown lands, and another similar concession in -the Portuguese territory.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The plant employed is Sanseveira, of which there are -about twenty varieties, the most common in the -neighbourhood being </span><em class="italics">S. cylindrica</em><span> and </span><em class="italics">S. guiniensis</em><span>; the -former, owing to the greater ease with which it can be -worked, being the most valuable. The length of leaf is -3 to 6 ft., and the diameter about ¾ in. I found it -growing in immense quantities on the plains round -Chiperoni.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The treatment is very simple. The green stuff is put -over rollers, which take it past a rapidly revolving brush -under a strong jet of water. The resulting fibre is then -dried in the shade, tied into bundles, and is ready bleached -for the market. Consequently the cost of production is -very low. The fibre is fine, strong, and clean, and the -waste is very small, the proportion of fibre to reed being -4 per cent. The strength is estimated at two and a half -times that of the best manilla.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The cost of fuel (wood) to run one engine for a day is -only four shillings, and as the fibre needs no cleaning, -only one process is necessary.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Mr. H. MacDonald, the Collector and Vice-Consul, -royally entertained us at his house, the only cool spot in -Chiromo. His method of providing fish for dinner was -to fire a round from his .303 into the edge of the river, -when one or two fish would rise stunned to the surface.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The climate of the vicinity is very trying to Europeans; -the heat is intense, and, being a moist heat, is -at times insufferable. We repeatedly registered 115° -and 120° in the shade, and owing to the amount of vapour -held suspended in the air, there was very little -diminution of temperature at night.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Periodical waves of fever prostrate the population -when the wind blows from the Elephant Marsh, and the -death-rate assumes alarming proportions. A form of -Beri-Beri is also prevalent.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Large numbers of natives frequently apply for -permission to come over from the Portuguese country and -settle in British territory, and the population is thus -becoming very dense, and food is easily obtainable in -large quantities.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst" id="chiperoni"><span class="bold large">CHAPTER IV.</span></p> -<p class="center pnext"><span class="bold medium">CHIPERONI.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>The Ruo, the main tributary of the Shiré river, which -two rivers at their angle of confluence enclose -Chiromo (native word, "the joining of the streams"), -rises in the Mlanje Hills, whence it flows in two main -streams which join about twenty-five miles north of its -junction with the Shiré. Ten miles south of this are -the beautiful Zoa Falls.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>As there was every prospect of having to wait some -weeks for the errant loads, we made arrangements for -some shooting, having heard great tales of the rhinoceros -on Mount Chiperoni, which lies about forty miles east of -the Ruo in Portuguese territory. Having been provided -with porters by Mr. MacDonald, and obtained a permit -from the Portuguese, which entitled us to carry a gun -and shoot meat for the pot, we crossed the river and -marched up towards Zoa.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The country was exceedingly dry and burnt up: -consequently the little game that remained in the vicinity -was concentrated near the water. After some hard days' -work under an impossible sun, I shot a klipspringer, -which, curiously enough, was down in the flat country, -and fully twenty miles from the nearest hills. The bristly -hairs reminded me of a hedgehog, and came out in great -quantities during the process of skinning. These -antelopes are exceedingly heavy in the hind quarters, short -in the legs, and have the most delicate feet imaginable. -We both searched high and low for koodoo, which were -reported to be plentiful, but without effect, though I -found a couple of worm-eaten heads lying in the bush; -and for some days we had no luck with sable, although -there was much fresh spoor; but eventually I succeeded -in bagging a fair bull. No antelope looks grander than an -old bull sable, standing like a statue under some tree, his -mighty horns sweeping far back over his shoulders. The -bristling mane gives a massive appearance to his -shoulders; there is something suggestive of the goat about -him, both in his lines and carriage: a giant ibex!</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>One evening some natives came to camp with a wonderful -catch of fish, amongst which I noticed four different -species. One was a long, eel-shaped fish with a curious -bottle snout, and very small teeth. The eye, entirely -covered with skin, was almost invisible. There is a -closely allied fish in the Nile. Another one resembled -a bream with very large fins. A third resembled a carp -with enormous scales, and was very poor eating. While -the fourth, which I have never seen elsewhere, and which -was unknown to Mr. MacDonald, who is a keen naturalist, -resembled a heavily-built carp with large scales and -prominent fins, and was of a beautiful green colour.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Sharp having decided to go to the north of Nyassa to -arrange transport across the plateau, then returned to -Chiromo, and I quickly followed. But a few days later -I again crossed into Portuguese territory, and marched -east along the telegraph line to M'Serrire on the Liadzi, -a tributary of the Shiré.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The following morning, quietly strolling through some -dense bush, I saw two grand bull sable browsing on the -tender shoots of a massive creeper. I fired at the better -of the two, and they both galloped away. It was easy -to follow their spoor in the soft, peaty soil, and a quarter -of a mile away I came on him lying dead. The shot -had passed through both lungs. In the evening, when -tubbing, I was beset by bees who come in clouds for -the moisture, and after an exciting and one-sided -conflict I hurriedly withdrew, dashed in a state of nudity -through the astonished village, and sought refuge in a hut. -The stings induced a severe fever, and the next two days -were spent in bed and indignant meditation.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Hearing that some old Cambridge friends of mine -had arrived in Chiromo, I marched in and spent a -jovial evening with MacDonald, who was entertaining them.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>A new detachment of Sikhs arrived under Lieut. Godfrey. -It was splendid to see the contrast between the -manners of these magnificent men and those of the local -negro. The respect shown to all Englishmen by these -gentlemen of gentlemen, coupled with their proud -carriage and air of self-respecting-respectful independence, -contrasted well with the slouching, coarse insolence of -the hideous African.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>A naïve individual arrived by the same boat for some -official post, and asked whether it was usual to leave -cards on the converted natives and their wives. He -appeared to be a striking example of the appalling -ineptitude of many of the officials chosen for the difficult -and serious work they undertake.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Tales of rhinoceros and elephant fired me with the -desire to make a trip to Chiperoni, a large mountain mass -east of the Ruo; but my ignorance of the language -made such an undertaking difficult, so that I wasted -some days in endeavouring to find a companion. -Preparatory to starting, it was necessary to make friends -with the Portuguese official. The usual man was away, -and his </span><em class="italics">locum tenens</em><span> was the captain of the gunboat, -which was moored to the bank opposite MacDonald's -house.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>From previous experience, I had learnt that with -Portuguese and natives everything depended on -outward appearance; and, as my wardrobe was little -calculated to inspire respect, I went round the town and -gathered much gorgeous raiment, the finishing touch -being supplied by the doctor in the shape of a -red-and-white medal ribbon, torn from a pocket pincushion. -Resplendent in such gauds, with a heavy riding-whip, -spurs (I had noticed that spurs are indispensable to -Portuguese polite society, even at sea), and balancing a -No. 6 helmet on a No. 8 head, I was rowed across the -river in great pomp by the administration boat, midst -the blare of trumpets and waving of flags.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The Portuguese officer, a delightful gentleman, received -me with open arms, placed the whole country and all that -was therein at my disposal, and gave me a "Viesky-soda," -insisting on drinking the same thing himself--a stretch of -hospitality that was attended with the direst results.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The following morning, having given up all hopes of -finding a companion, I collected a dozen raw natives and -a Chinyanja dictionary, and on November 10th crossed -the Ruo and marched twelve miles to the Liadzi, a -parallel stream to the Ruo, and also flowing into the Shiré. -Five miles further I forded the Zitembi, another parallel -stream of some volume. This I followed up to a village -called Gombi (little bank), which is perched on a small -cliff at the junction of the Zitembi with a feeder. I had -had considerable difficulty in obtaining guides, the natives -being very surly, and absolutely refusing any information -of the best means of reaching Chiperoni, or of the -probability of sport, and at Gombi things reached a -climax, the chief telling me that he wanted no white man -in his country, that the Portuguese forced them to work -for nothing, and demanded a 5 r. hut tax, that my men -would obtain no food, etc., etc., </span><em class="italics">ad nauseam</em><span>. However, -seeing that I was not to be trifled with, he changed his -tone, and brought me flour and fowls, guides to show -me game, and a guide to Chiperoni for the morrow. In -the afternoon I took a walk round and shot some meat, -seeing plenty of fresh rhino, buffalo, eland, sable, and other -buck spoor. The country seemed so promising that I -decided, if unsuccessful at Chiperoni, to return for a few -days. There was an albino woman in the village; all -her children, to the number of five, were also albino, -and at several other villages in the vicinity I saw -specimens, which would argue a strong hereditary tendency. -In many of the villages in the higher valleys there were -numerous cases of goitre, some very pronounced, and -an extraordinary number of lepers and idiots. This was -attributable to the isolating influence of mountainous -regions, through difficulty of communication, and the -consequent tendency to inbreed. The whole of the next -day I followed the Zitembi, till, at its junction with a -large feeder, about twenty-four miles from Gombi, there -is a village called Chirombo. The stream, which is a -series of cascades, and lined with bamboo, is exceedingly -beautiful, and, by a reconnaissance on the morrow, I -ascertained that it rises on the north of Chiperoni. From -here Chiperoni has quite an imposing effect. It is a -terraced cone deeply seared by water-courses, and rises -from the middle of a basin formed by a circle of less -prominent peaks, the most important of which is -Makambi to the west. Far away to the north-west were -visible the heights of Mlanje, while to the east stretched -an unending forest-clad plain that reaches to -Mozambique. Woods of mahobahoba (the wild loquat) and -many flowering trees covered every rise, and the flat -interior of the basin; and the glorious golds, reds, -russets, and browns of our autumn, which in these climes -beautify the landscape in spring, were at their richest, -while a carpet of vivid green and purple flowers lay -spread beneath the shade. It was a beautiful country, -cool, even at midday, cold at night, free from mosquitoes -and flies, and every mile or so an ice-cold stream -came tumbling down behind its curtain of ferns and -orchids.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Marching round the southern face of Chiperoni for -twenty miles, we came to a long ridge or arete which I -followed till within 500 ft. of the summit, which is rocky -and precipitous, but would offer no difficulty to a man -without a load. Here I camped on a small plateau in -a glade of mahobahoba. It was a delightful change after -the sweltering heat of Chiromo, and I could imagine -myself again in Switzerland as I looked out over miles of -rolling upland and undulating forest. There were -numerous signs of elephant which were feeding on the small -sugary loquats, but I failed to find any, though I followed -one spoor for many miles. From here we worked round -to the east face, till, being short of food, I was obliged -to follow one of the numerous streams down to the plain. -Here was a considerable but scattered population with a -large number of domestic pigeons, pigs, ducks, and cats. -The pigs were the ordinary bush-pig, while the pigeons, -which were blue rocks, must have been originally -introduced by the Portuguese. The stream, which flows into -the Misongwe, a tributary of the Shiré, is called the -Machingiri, and there are numerous signs of rhino, though -few antelopes; however, I managed to bag a good sable. -As my boys were following very badly on the paths, I -cut straight across to Gombi through the forest, a very -long, waterless march, and on arrival found there was -not one boy a hundred yards behind; after that I had -no further difficulty with them. At Gombi I decided to -stop for a few days, and the next morning, after spooring -a herd of sable for two hours, I shot a splendid bull.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>I had told the chief, who was now most friendly, that -I was going to shoot sable, and he came and asked me -what I intended to kill the next day, and was much -amused when I jokingly replied that I should bring home -a rhinoceros.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>With this end in view I started early, at 5.30 a.m., and -crossing the river, skirted along the foot of the hills, and -killed a bull hartebeeste for the Mahomedan boys, who -refuse to eat the meat of any beast that has not had its -throat cut before death. Although this is a great nuisance -(as cutting the throat spoils the head skin), it is right -to respect such customs, and I always made a point of -killing something else, so that they should not suffer for -their belief.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>At 7.30 I found fresh rhinoceros spoor which I followed -under a blazing sun till 12.30. The country had been -very difficult, and I was just beginning to despair when -I heard a snort, and looking up, saw the rhino trotting -round the corner of an ant-hill, behind which he had been -sleeping. On seeing me he stopped, snorting, blowing, -and stamping, looking exceedingly nasty. I was -carrying my .303, and turning round for my 4-bore, I found -that all my boys had bolted up a small thorn tree, from -the branch of which they were hanging like a cluster of -bees. They had thrown down the gun, and I was -compelled to stoop down and grope about for it in the -undergrowth. The brute was blowing and snorting only -fifteen yards away, and I felt very uncomfortable, as in -my position I offered a magnificent target. However, at -last I found the gun, and firing past his cheek, hit him -full on the edge of the shoulder. Instantly there arose -a very hell of sound, squealing, stamping, and crashing -of bushes and grass. The smoke hung like a pall around -me, and I thought he was charging. Having nowhere to -run to, I stayed where I was, and suddenly his huge mass -dashed past the edge of the smoke-cloud, and I saw him -disappear at a tremendous pace into the grass. We -followed hard, but though he bled freely and lay down -several times, we did not come up to him again till 3 p.m., -when we found him standing at ten yards' distance in a -bushy nullah far up in the hills. I fired the 4-bore at -his shoulder, knocking him down, but he rose again, and -tried to climb the far bank; so I fired the second barrel -hurriedly; the cartridge split at the back, and I was -knocked over a tree two yards behind. That stopped -him, and three solid bullets from the .303 finished him.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>I found that the first shot had penetrated about 2 ft., -smashing all the shoulder, yet he travelled for two and -a half hours, over the steepest hills and through some -precipitous water-courses.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>In cutting off his head, I found an old iron native -bullet in the muscle of his neck.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>We were terribly exhausted from the desperate work in -a pitiless sun, and hastily grilled a portion of his liver, -which was excellent.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>A twelve-mile trot brought us back to camp at 7 p.m., -and the old chief turned out in state to meet me, and -falling upon his knees, rubbed his face in the dust in -token of admiration at my powers of prescience.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The natives departed in hundreds there and then to -cut up the meat, and arrived early the next morning -with the head intact; twenty boys carried it slung on -a pole. Skinning it was a fearful business, and occupied -me till dark; toil that I have much regretted, since I -find that the skull, skin, and many other trophies and -curios have been unfortunately lost in transit.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The old chief again came to me and asked me what I -was going to kill. I suggested eland for a change; and -knowing that there were several herds near where I had -killed the rhinoceros, I set off in that direction, my local -guides carefully placing a bunch of leaves under a bush -on the left-hand side of the path. This, they informed -me, ensured success.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The country was full of splendid hunting-grounds; the -young grass was sprouting from the black, peaty soil, and -the new foliage of the trees afforded grateful shade, -beneath which one could walk for hours without -encountering any undergrowth.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The spoor of buffalo, rhinoceros, sable, and hartebeeste -was plentiful, but nothing would satisfy me except eland, -and it was not till midday that I found tracks fresh -enough to follow. A six-mile burst brought me in sight -of a herd of twenty, and I was creeping round under cover -of some trees to obtain a good shot at the leading bull -when a boy, who had followed me from the village, let -off a dozen ear-piercing whistles to inform me that he -too had seen them. Away dashed the eland, and any -one who has once followed alarmed eland does not eagerly -repeat the mistake. They usually keep up a steady trot -till they are clear of the obnoxious neighbourhood, and -when they do stand are so wary that approach is -impossible. The offending native was an ordinary type of the -creatures depicted in books as wonderful hunters and -trackers. Personally I have never found a native of -Africa who was anything but an abominable nuisance -out hunting; and after many trials I strictly confined -my hunting attendants to one or two gun-bearers whom -I trained to act instantly on a definite set of signs, and -never used them for any purpose, except to occasionally -follow obvious spoor when I wanted to rest my eyes; -even then they needed watching, or they would go wrong. -The Bushmen are, of course, an exception to this rule.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>On my way back to camp I was startled by a deafening -report and the shriek of a bullet past my head. The -boy who was carrying my 4-bore had slipped the safety-bolt -back, and the trigger had caught in a twig. He was, -of course, carrying the gun loosely on his shoulder, and -the effect of the explosion of fourteen drams of powder -was terrific. It knocked him several feet off the path -and stunned him, while the gun described a graceful -parabola, and landed, muzzle downwards, on a patch of -soft soil, fortunately escaping damage.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>A messenger arrived in the evening with a note to the -effect that the stray baggage had arrived, and the following -day I returned to Chiromo after a most enjoyable trip.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst" id="british-central-africa-and-lake-nyassa"><span class="bold large">CHAPTER V.</span></p> -<p class="center pnext"><span class="bold medium">BRITISH CENTRAL AFRICA AND LAKE NYASSA.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>At last, on November 28th, I left Chiromo and -started up the river once more in the good ship -</span><em class="italics">Scott</em><span>, and again realized the feelings of a pea on a drum. -Fortunately the skipper was so ill with fever that we -took charge of the boat ourselves, and thus contrived -to have something to eat.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>We had lost six valuable weeks through our kit -having been put on the wrong boat at Beira, and as -Mohun's expedition had gone on in front we lost -eventually six weeks more, through the transport on the -Tanganyika plateau being temporarily demoralized. -Thus the carelessness of our agent delayed us in all -three months. Such is African travel. I no longer -fret when my train is ten minutes late. Even after this -wait some of our things never turned up at all. -Mr. Commissioner Alfred Sharpe, C.B., the greatest and -most reticent of African Nimrods, was on board, but -we tried in vain to induce him to tell us some of his -experiences. However, he gave me a piece of advice -that afterwards stood me in good stead: that, when -charged by an elephant, the safest course was to remain -quite still till the brute was within four yards, and -then to blaze in his face. This almost invariably turns -the brute or makes him swerve; my experience has -certainly proved its efficacy. Mr. Sharpe has the -reputation of being the hardest and most daring shikari -who ever followed an elephant; and many amusing -tales are current of how in the excitement of the chase -he would charge cow elephants to make them get out -of his way, in order that he might obtain his shot at -the leading bull. In view of the success that attends -many of the imaginative literary efforts of missionaries -and week-end tourists on the subject of Africa, it is a -great pity that the few men like Alfred Sharpe and -Lawley of Beira railway fame, who have had gigantic -experience of Africa past and present, resolutely refuse -to record their invaluable data in a book. Sir Harry -Johnston and Selous have set an admirable example, -and if a few more men of their stamp would write, -much of the misleading balderdash that now passes -current as representing the Dark Continent would be -happily crushed out of existence.</span></p> -<div class="align-center auto-scaled figure margin" style="width: 99%" id="figure-74"> -<span id="and-i-was-compelled-to-stoop-down-and-grope"></span><img class="align-center block" style="display: block; width: 100%" alt="I was compelled to stoop down and grope." src="images/img-064.jpg" /> -<div class="caption centerleft figure-caption margin"> -<span class="italics">I was compelled to stoop down and grope.</span></div> -</div> -<p class="pnext"><span>A slight mishap with the machinery delayed us for -several hours, and it was not till noon the following -day that we reached Makwira's village. Young -Makwira, who is quite the young gentleman, in knickers, -stockings, spats, collar, and hard hat, provided us -with whiskies and milk, and discussed local politics, -displaying no little acumen. I believe that it was his -father who used to be a terror to all travellers on the -Shiré, and that but a few years ago, when the elephant -still roamed in thousands on the Elephant Marsh, -undisturbed by the shrill whistle of the stern-wheeler -or the bark of the playful 4-bore. It was either old -Makwira or another genial darky in the vicinity, who for -some time kept a tame Portuguese band, and utilized -the bandsmen when off duty as machila-carriers.[#]</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="noindent pfirst"><span class="small">[#] </span><em class="italics small">Machila</em><span class="small">: Portuguese word acclimatized; -a hammock slung to a -pole and carried by a team of men.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>The Elephant Marsh is a large tract of country lying -on the left bank of the Shiré river, north of Chiromo. -In days gone by it teemed with elephant, buffalo, and -game of all descriptions; but the persistent gunner -soon drove the elephant away and decimated the other -beasts. And it was due, I believe, to Sir Harry -Johnston that it was made into a game reserve. The effect -has been most beneficial. Herds of waterbuck and -buffalo come to the banks of the river, and lazily watch -the steamers pass; and even elephant have been -occasionally seen of late playing in their old haunts. A -more suitable spot for a reserve could not have been -selected. The Shiré and Ruo rivers to the south-west -and east, and the highlands to the north, form natural -boundaries; there is plenty of water and ample grazing -at all times of the year. Every night one may hear the -lions roaring. By legislative foresight a game paradise -has been saved in the midst of one of the busiest and -most progressive of our African possessions.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>At Makwira's we reluctantly bade farewell to -Mr. H. C. MacDonald, whose dry humour and all-embracing -hospitality had made my weary sojourn in Chiromo one -of the most delightful stages in our journey. The -company on the steamer was rather embarrassed by the -extravaganzas of an evangelical madman, who had -arrived in the country in a state of destitution, and -who is probably by now, under the title D.B.S., a -burden on the community. Such men should be caged, -or at least prevented from running loose amongst the -natives, and adding to the already well-nigh insuperable -difficulties of the administration.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>A few hours' run brought us to Katunga's, the African -Lakes Corporation's port for Blantyre. The Government -station is a little distance further up the river. -The crocodiles, which were very numerous, had been -causing much mortality amongst the natives; one had -even seized the station's bucket, which, for greater -safety, was lowered into the river to draw water from -the end of a long pole.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The Government station is the highest navigable -point of the river south of the rapids, and everything -has to be unshipped and carried round to the upper -river by native porters or wagons. From Katunga's to -Blantyre there is a well-constructed road, with a -half-way house belonging to the African Lakes Corporation. -Captain Rhoades, of the B.C.A. navy, accompanied me -in a mule-cart, and we arrived at Blantyre, the -commercial centre of B.C.A., about sunset. The road -quickly mounts from the Shiré valley on to the plateau -of the highlands. Looking back over the valley from -the edge of the plateau the view is superb; and much -of the scenery through which the road passes is very -beautiful. Most of the highlands are covered with -woods, which at that season were in the full glory of -their vernal tints; the grass was springing up green, -and carpeted with millions of beautiful purple flowers -resembling crocuses. There were many specimens of -the mahobahoba tree, or wild loquat: the timber of -this tree is much prized for telegraph poles and similar -uses; and the broad dark-green leaves are exceedingly -handsome. We passed several comfortable-looking -homesteads belonging to coffee-planters, and the fields of -neatly-planted coffee-shrubs staggering under their -burden of snowy blossom made me fancy that I was back -in the fruit-farms of Kent.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Coffee is the great industry of British Central Africa, -and one that is likely to bring the little protectorate into -the vanguard of our new possessions in the near future. -The quality is second to none; some of the crops have -realized the highest price on the London markets. At -present the industry is more or less paralyzed, owing to -the majority of the planters having started operations -on borrowed capital, and, with one or two exceptions, -without previous experience of coffee. But as soon as -the plantations are put on a sound business footing the -prosperity of the community should be assured, always -provided that the administration, by judicious legislation -as to rate of pay for labourers, prevents the labour -market from being spoilt. The present rate of pay is -three shillings a month, and a rise must be prevented at -all costs. The labour supply, properly handled, should -prove well-nigh inexhaustible, and, owing to the -immigration from the Portuguese sphere, is steadily -increasing. I was informed by many men that the first -crop should pay the expenses of the first three years -during which there is no yield. This is a magnificent -return, and by judicious combines, capitalization, and -concentration, Nyassa coffee should become an important -industry. The coffee being of such quality, is only used -for blending at present, so that there is little chance of -over-production. It is one of the few African countries -that has natural easy communication with the coast, -and when a light railway has been built, and shipping -and agency have been properly organized, the cost of -transport will be very small. There is also undoubtedly -great scope for subsidiary and supplementary industries, -such as cocoa and rubber.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>I consider that in British Central Africa there is an -excellent opening for British capital--an opening that -appears to be as yet practically unknown at home. -The fact is that Africa is supinely neglected where it -cannot flaunt the magic war-cry, Gold. The Germans, -who are ever on the alert, are already alive to its -possibilities, and there were rumours of a great coffee -combine financed by well-known German East Coast -capitalists. It is to be hoped that England will awake -to the chance before the ground has been cut from -under her feet, as has already been done in so many -places that I have visited. The wily Teuton is very -much alive to the advantages afforded by British rule, -and has already levied heavy toll on the budding -possibilities of trade in our African dominions. Our -trouble is that, with few exceptions, we do not send out -the right men, but consider that any one is good enough -for Africa. This is far from being the case, as new -business lines have to be adopted to ensure success. -Adaptability and enterprise belong to genius and not to -mediocrity, and no country requires a more delicately-adjusted -combination of dash, tact, and perseverance -than Africa.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>There is a passable hotel in Blantyre, and many fine -buildings in brick. The missionaries have built a large -church, and laid out avenues of eucalyptus which have -grown wonderfully well. Unfortunately, as in Rhodesia, -the white ants attack the roots when the trees attain a -certain height. Extensive plantations would unquestionably -considerably modify the climate, which is far -from good. The worst type of hæmoglobinuric fever is -very prevalent, and the death-rate is consequently high. -However, as more and more land is brought under -cultivation, the country should become healthier. Probably -much of the fever that prevails is brought from the -lowlands, which must be traversed before arriving in the -higher altitudes: an improved service with the coast -will obviate this to some extent. At Blantyre I met -with much kindness at the hands of Mr. Codrington, the -Commissioner of Northern Rhodesia, Major Harding, -C.M.G., who had been recruiting Angonis for the -B.S.A. Police, and Mr. Wilson of the Trans-Continental -Telegraph, an old school and Cambridge friend, whom I -was much surprised to find in this out-of-the-way -corner of the world. Three days later I left with -Mr. Hall of the African Flotilla Company in machilas for -Zomba, the administrative capital. We were to spend -the night at the Nomasi river, which we reached in a -torrential downpour. Our delight, when we discovered -that the transport people had sent our tents and -provisions by the wrong road, may be imagined. -Fortunately we learned that Mr. Harrison, whom we had -met on the river, was camped in the vicinity, and he -kindly provided us with a shakedown and something -to eat. The following day we reached Zomba, having -passed through many flourishing coffee estates. Here -Mr. C. C. Bowring put us up and plied us with all the -obtainable luxuries and comforts, in the intervals of a -fight to the death with a swarm of irate bees who had -taken possession of the interior of the wall of his house. -The view across Lake Shirwa and the forests that clothe -the flat plains which surround the lake ranks amongst -the finest that I have seen in Africa. Vast purple -masses of hills enclose the placid lake and its -forest-clad plains, and the eye roams on over an infinity of -broken upland and shimmering haze. The Government -House is a large picturesque building standing in the -midst of a well-planted tropical garden, which had, -however, been lately ravaged by a flight of locusts. -There was tennis accompanied by a tea-party, presided -over by Miss Harrison, who has nursed many a sick man -back to life, and it seemed as if I had suddenly dropped -back into civilized England. After two pleasant days -spent in these unwonted surroundings, I started in a -machila for Liwonde on the Upper Shiré, where I arrived -at sunset, and was entertained by Mr. Drummond Hay, -an old "Herzog" friend. I am much shocked to hear -that he has since fallen a victim to the climate.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>From Liwonde the S.S. </span><em class="italics">Monteith</em><span> took me to Fort -Johnston, which is the port of Lake Nyassa, and is -situated a few miles south of the bar at the outlet of -the lake. A short distance from Fort Johnston the -river opens out and forms the small lake Pamalomba, -formerly a great haunt of elephant. The lake is very -shallow, and as the steamer passes along, the disturbed -mud emits enormous volumes of marsh gas: so great -is the quantity that the water has the appearance of -violently boiling. There have been several instances -of men being blown out of their cabins, owing to their -having ignited the gas by absent-mindedly striking a -match. When Sharp passed with Mr. Mohun, somebody -threw a lighted match overboard. Instantly a -sheet of flame passed over the barge that was being -towed alongside, and two saddles were seriously burnt.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>As we arrived at Fort Johnston late in the evening, I -elected to sleep on board, and was much gratified to -find that two couples of married German missionaries, -not content with having monopolized the only two -cabins, had rigged up a large canvas enclosure and were -sleeping on deck. Consequently, I was compelled to -place my blankets by the wheel and sleep in the wind -and dew.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Mr. Wallis, the Vice-Consul, entertained me. He has -laid the new town out most admirably, and I could -scarcely believe that it had all been done in a few months. -The place was alive with rats, who amused themselves -all night by tobogganing down my face, rushing along -my body, and taking flying leaps from my feet into outer -darkness.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Commander Cullen took me over H.M.S. </span><em class="italics">Gwendoline</em><span>, -the large new gunboat that had just been launched for -patrolling the lake. It is a splendid work to have -accomplished, when the difficulties of transporting some of the -heavy portions round the rapids are taken into consideration. -I was also introduced to a budding diplomatist, -who informed me with pride that he had fired a -soft-nosed bullet at an elephant at one thousand yards. -The elephant escaped.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>On December 15th I started on the voyage up the -lake in the S.S. </span><em class="italics">Domira</em><span>, and at midday made Monkey -Bay. It is a most beautiful little spot, and reminded -me forcibly of the South Sea Islands. Bold rocky -headlands plunge into the lake and enclose a white strip of -sand with straggling villages at the back. The water is -clear as crystal, and broken by the heads of hundreds of -natives diving, swimming, and splashing about. Ringing -peals of laughter echo in the rocks and startle the -troops of baboons that sit watching with curious eyes -the trim little steamer. Picturesque groups of natives -are scattered about the beach, and the little picaninnies -are playing on the skeleton of a wrecked Arab dhow, -little dreaming what that dhow had meant to their -fathers a few years before. In the afternoon I strolled -out, hoping to get a shoot at koodoo, for which the place -is famous. But the koodoo were not at home; however, -I saw several impala, and shot a small buck which -I believe to have been the duiker described by Sir Alfred -Sharpe as a probable new species. Unfortunately, my -natives devoured the skull and the rats ate the skin. -It was a small, reddish-brown buck, similar in build to -a klipspringer, with wiry hair and thick, high-standing -hind quarters.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The next wooding station was Domira Bay, and on -the 17th we arrived at Kota-Kota, which used to be -the headquarters of the Arab slave traffic across the -lake, and the starting-point of the Arab raids towards -Mweru. Mr. Swann, the collector, who has had many -years' experience of Tanganyika in the old Arab days, -entertained me, and gave me two Angoni spears which -had been taken in the Mpeseni trouble. There are -several missionaries at Kota-Kota. They have started -football, and in a rash moment I was induced to play--a -freak which I regretted for many days afterwards, -as it brought on a sharp attack of fever.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Kota-Kota is exceedingly beautiful, as indeed is all -the coast of Lake Nyassa. The hills are heavily wooded, -and their bases are broken by the waves into fantastic -caves and rocky promontories against which plays the -white line of surf. Small rocky islands stand out here -and there, and form the resting-place of myriads of -cormorants.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Here I first saw the extraordinary "Kungu" fly, -which is, I believe, peculiar to Lake Nyassa. They -resemble small may-flies, and at certain seasons of the -year rise from the water in such stupendous clouds that -they blot out the whole horizon. Seen in the distance, -they have exactly the appearance of a rainstorm coming -across the lake. When they are blown landwards they -make every place uninhabitable by the stench which -arises from the countless millions that lodge and die -on every inch of sheltered ground. I myself have seen -them lying a foot deep in a room, and I was told that -they are often much worse. The natives sweep them -up and make cakes of them. I tasted one, and found it -by no means bad. The next morning we reached Bandawe, -another important station, where there is a large -mission-house with extensive plantations of pineapples -and some splendid mango trees. At Nkata Bay, a few -miles further up the coast, a native came and begged -us to go and see his master, who was very ill. Accordingly -we set off in the dark, and found Mr. Broadbridge -of the African Trans-Continental Telegraph down with -a severe attack of fever; we did what we could for -him, and he shortly recovered. After a short stop at -Luawi to pick up wood, we steamed into Florence Bay, -and at Miss MacCallum's invitation I accompanied her -up to the Livingstone Mission at Mount Waller. -Mr. Stewart, one of the missionaries, who has been for some -time working among the northern Angonis, told me -that he had been investigating the history of the -Angonis, who are descendants of the Zulus. There were -two great treks north of the Zulus in the time of Chaka. -One, under Moselikatse, marched to Matabeleland, -leaving the ancestors of the present Matabele, and then -north across the Zambesi. There they came into -conflict with the Barotse, and were driven east, eventually -settling in Southern Angoniland of to-day, which lies -south-west by west of Lake Nyassa.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The other trek marched north through the Sabi -district, leaving the present Shangaans on their way, and -then crossed the Zambesi by the Kabrabasa rapids and -passed near Lake Rukwa. Here the chief died and the -trek split up: one part went north of Tanganyika and -settled near the south-west of the Victoria Nyanza, -where they were rediscovered by Stanley; another -part marched round the northern shore of Lake Nyassa; -and yet another returned south and founded Northern -Angoniland of to-day.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Dr. Robert and Mrs. Laws treated me with the -greatest hospitality; he took me round the mission, -and showed me the results of their four years' work -since the founding of the station. Dr. Robert Laws was -one of the first explorers of Nyassaland, and was in -no small way responsible for the checkmating of the -Portuguese pretensions to what is now British Central -Africa. The station is admirably situated on a plateau -surrounded by hills with valleys intervening, and -commands extensive views across the lake to Amelia Bay -and the Livingstone Mountains, and to the west towards -the valley of the Loangwa or Northern Angoniland. -There is a large printing-machine which the natives -work under the superintendence of Mr. Thomson. Here -books and magazines and much work of great merit are -produced. The processes of stereotyping and -picture-reproducing on zinc are thoroughly understood by the -skilled natives. In the workshops are several -carpenters, one of whom in a few hours made me a folding -camp-chair that accompanied me to Cairo. The farm -and the quarry are both managed by natives. Dr. Laws' -system is to employ native teaching as much as possible. -If ability, whole-hearted earnestness, and hard work -can accomplish any good in missionary endeavour, -Dr. Laws ought to succeed. Laden with butter and gigantic -water-melons, I returned to the boat, and the following -day we reached Karonga's, the starting-point for the -Stevenson Road.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst" id="karonga-to-kituta-across-the-tanganyika-plateau"><span class="bold large">CHAPTER VI.</span></p> -<p class="center pnext"><span class="bold medium">KARONGA TO KITUTA ACROSS THE TANGANYIKA PLATEAU.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>On arrival at Karonga I was much disappointed to -find that Sharp, tired of waiting, had left two -days before to try and arrange transport on Tanganyika. -As it was the season for sowing their crops, very -few carriers were available, and it was evident that I -should have to wait some time before I could obtain -sufficient men to transport our loads. I commenced -operations by repacking all the food-boxes and -discarding everything that was not absolutely necessary, as -well as the considerable quantity of stuff that had -spoilt through being improperly packed. The firm -responsible, either as a practical joke or an experiment -in the cultivation of fungus, had packed chocolate in -paper wrappers and laid them in hay in a leaky wooden -box. As a practical joke it was weak, but as a venture -in fungi-culture a complete success. In fact, -unpacking the boxes reminded me forcibly of the days when, -as a youthful disciple of Isaac Walton, I used to dig -for worms in the garden manure-heap. A series of -remarkable tins of sausages added materially to the -excitement of these excavations, one and all having -assumed the outward and visible form of a Rugby -football; while as to the inward invisible grace, I was -careful to throw them down wind, when they exploded -on contact with the ground in a manner most satisfactory, -to the utter consternation of six Kaffir dogs and a hyæna. -They, having followed up the wind of the first (a -comparatively mild one), were so overcome by its successors -that they clapped their tails between their legs, and, -with a dismal howl, fled, convinced of the superiority -of the white man, even in what they had hitherto -considered the black man's monopoly. Native rumour has -it that they are running still.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Having arranged everything and reduced the loads -to a minimum, I succumbed to a dose of fever, and -spent Christmas Day in bed, on a cup of tea. -Dr. Castellote, the medical officer of Mr. Mohun's expedition, -was most kind, and when I had sufficiently recovered, -we went out together for a few days' shooting on the -River Songwe, which, flowing into the extreme -north-western point of Lake Nyassa, forms part of the -Anglo-German boundary-line.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Before starting, however, I went to a neighbouring -village and called for volunteers to accompany us on -our long journey north. I informed the people in the -guest's resting-place, which is kept apart in every village, -that the journey would take many moons; that we -should go to Tanganyika, that north of Tanganyika -we should find another lake, then mighty mountains -that made fire, then another lake, then still mightier -mountains so high that the water became as stones; -then a fourth lake, out of which flowed a great river -which, after several moons, took one to the dwelling-places -of the white man--large even as hills--where the -white men were even as the sands of the lake-shore; -that there we should find the sea--the water without -end--and that I would send back in steamers large as -villages those who came with me, so that they might -return to their homes and tell their brothers of all the -wonderful things they had seen. The people were much -impressed and evidently considered me a very extra -special line in liars. They asked me how I knew what -was there--"had I been there to see?" I told them -that the white man knew much, and what he did not -know he could find in books (showing them one). -Then they realized that I must be even a finer liar -than they had at first taken me to be. After a little -more talking four stalwart Watonga volunteered to -come, thinking it a pity not to see more of such a -transcendent Ananias. One of them, Makanjira, was a small -chief on the lake-shore, and those four men stuck to -me through thick and thin, and all arrived safely at -Cairo; but I regret to say that I have just heard that -one of them, Chacachabo, died during the voyage down -the coast. The next day a nude dirty little ruffian -came and asked to go too; he, though but a small -boy, came through safely, and is now setting up a reputation -as a liar on his own account. Later on I obtained -twelve more recruits, whom I handed over to Mr. Mohun's -sergeant to be drilled: these men, as it will -later transpire, deserted </span><em class="italics">en masse</em><span> a few days north of -Ujiji. They were Asiska, and a very unwholesome lot -of ruffians.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The doctor and I started off along the lake-shore on -a couple of donkeys lent to us by Mr. Mohun. We had -much trouble in inducing them to cross a large stream -that flows into the lake a few miles north of Karonga, -and eventually had to take them bodily by the four -legs and throw them in.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>At Chikopolo's there is a Government station in -charge of a few native police; here we stayed for a day, -but finding nothing more interesting than waterbuck -and reedbuck, moved north and camped on the Songwe, -which is a stream of considerable importance, and -navigable for several miles from the lake. I was informed -that there was a German post on the northern bank -of the river at its junction with the lake, and -accordingly went across to pay my respects. On arrival I -found that the station was in charge of a Goanese -native, who promptly endeavoured to annex my rifle, -saying that I had brought it into the country without -a permit. I called upon Mirambo, a splendid old Arab -who used to be a great man in the country. He -entertained me with true Arab courtesy, and loaded -my boys with magnificent pine-apples and lemons -when I went away. It was pitiable to see the poor old -man, who a few years ago had commanded thousands, -putting on the faded relics of his greatness to do me -honour.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>On the way back to camp I came upon an enormous -native fishing weir: there were two or three natives -wading waist-deep in the water above the weir pulling -fish out of the baskets, while down-stream, with nothing -but the crazy sticks between, the water was being lashed -into foam by the gyrations of scores of huge crocodiles. -I shot fourteen in as many minutes, averaging fifteen -feet in length. The natives flocked in to express their -satisfaction, and actually brought me a present of some -fish. There were a few pookoo on the plain. They -are most beautiful little antelopes and carry themselves -exactly like a waterbuck. The hair is reddish, long, and -curly, and the hide (as with all the waterbucks) very -tough and thick. It has been obtained by comparatively -few sportsmen, as it is only found on the Upper -Zambesi, Loangwa, Chambesi, and Mweru district.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>On the 13th I moved my camp twelve miles up the -river to a village called N'kana. Here the hills close -in upon the river, but leave a series of delightful little -green glades, most likely places for finding roan antelope, -which are numerous in the country. But I was -unsuccessful, though there was some spoor about. While -crossing one of these small glades, a shout of Njoka -(snake) from my gun-bearer made me spring to one side. -I found that I had put my foot so close to a sleeping -puff-adder that it would have been impossible to have -slipped a visiting-card between us. The brute still slept; -on, till I crushed the life out of it with an enormous -log of wood. It rather scared me, as I was hunting -with bare legs. All this country is infested with -puff-adders, which are the most dangerous snakes in Africa, -as they do not dart away like other snakes, but lie -sleeping in the dust till they are trodden upon. They -differ from other snakes in that they strike backwards. -Later on, near the Chambesi, I actually trod upon one; -it struck, but missed me, and turned a back somersault -in the air, leaving the ground entirely. After that I -always wore gaiters or stockings. I have heard of -another instance of a puff-adder springing clear of the -ground. This is rendered possible by their habit of -striking backwards. The natives complained of the -hut tax and of being forbidden to kill game: they said -that many had crossed over into the German sphere; -but they have all come back in a hurry.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Failing to find roan antelope, I marched back to -Chikopolo's across the hills, and was much struck by -the number of butterflies in the woods; some of them -were very beautiful, but so rapid was their flight that -it was exceedingly difficult to catch them. Everywhere -there was splendid cattle country, but unfortunately -very little cattle. Before the rinderpest the -whole of the Songwe valley was black with buffalo; -now I do not believe there is a single beast, except in -some jungle two days' march to the north, which the -natives told me was haunted by a few buffalo and -elephants. And only a very few head survive of the -countless herds of cattle which were characteristic of -the Wankonde. The Wankonde are a very pleasant-mannered, -intelligent people, who were saved from -absolute extinction at the hands of the Angoni, Watonga, -and Arabs by the British occupation of the country. -Ethnologically they are extremely interesting: their -ethnographical position in the races has not yet been -satisfactorily ascertained. Their huts, which are very -neat and picturesque, are sometimes square, sometimes -round, and worked in a pattern of round knobs of clay -stuck in between the rush walls. Many are built on a -raised clay foundation with a trench to draw off the -rain. The roof is worked in fancy patterns. Their -metal work is first-class, in fact the most finished that -I have seen on the east side of Africa. They have a fair -breed of cattle, goats, and sheep, and grow pineapples, -bananas, and pumpkins in profusion. Probably owing -to Arab influence their villages are well laid out, and -the banana palms are planted in carefully aligned -avenues. The Arab influence on their music is obvious. -And despite Arab influence they are an exceedingly -moral race. Being a peaceful, pastoral, and agricultural -people, they fell an easy prey to their warlike neighbours -and the slave-raiding Arabs. Lugard speaks of them -as having been shot down in the most merciless manner -by the Arabs in his time.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The natives informed me that Mr. Mohun and Captain -Verhellen, the Belgian officer in command of the -telegraph escort, were camped on the Songwe, so I -marched back and joined them. They were out for a -short hunting-trip, and I found them ignominiously -slaughtering a goat for meat, although the whole plain -was alive with game. On examining Mr. Mohun's rifle, -which he had just bought from a local man of God, I -found that the barrel was so badly worn that it was -almost possible to insert the whole cartridge at the -muzzle. That explained his having fired forty shots -without effect. In the evening we strolled out together, -and after a very difficult stalk I pulled off a long shot -of three hundred yards at a good bull pookoo. Captain -Verhellen informed me that he had seen four small grey -antelopes, one of which he had wounded and lost. I -could not imagine what they could be; so on the -following morning turned out with his boy to show me where -he had seen them. I had only walked about three -miles when I saw one standing in a patch of green -grass. It appeared to be a reedbuck of a beautiful -bright silver-grey colour. There was a small ant-hill -between the buck and me which made stalking easy, -and I approached without difficulty to within sixty -yards. I was just pressing the trigger when an ordinary -reedbuck sprang out at my feet and dashed away with -a shrill whistle; this started the grey one, and I only -got a running snapshot. The bullet struck it in the -stern but failed to stop it, and the second barrel only -grazed the side. I galloped wildly in pursuit, but the -buck kept on its course for nearly two miles before it -stopped. The distance between us was fully four -hundred yards, but I had to take the shot, as it was -watching me, and was evidently prepared to resume its flight. -The bullet struck it far back, and it again galloped -away, the second barrel going wide. Fortunately the -plain was extensive and the grass in most places short, -so that I managed to keep it in view for the next four -miles. Then it stood again, near some bushes; I -endeavoured to approach under cover of these, but was -again spotted, and the weary chase recommenced. The -country became more broken, and I lost sight of the -brute for some time, but eventually saw it lying down -a thousand yards away. I approached to a tree, whence -I could see if it moved, and waited in the hope that it -would get stiff and allow me to come within certain -shooting-range. After waiting half an hour I -commenced to stalk it, crawling flat on my stomach; there -was a convenient bush within fifty yards of where it -was lying, and I made for this. After half an hour's -desperate crawl through thorns in a blazing sun, I reached -the much-desired spot, and peering cautiously round the -edge found, to my infinite disgust, that it had moved on. -I searched high and low, but could find no trace, and -soon lost the spoor which showed but faintly on the -grass. As a last effort I made a circuit of two miles, -but returned to where I had lost it without result. -Then I sat down, waiting for my boys to arrive with my -water-bottle. The pace had been so hot that they -were completely lost, and I waited in vain. The fever -from which I was still suffering made my thirst -intolerable, and I rose with the intention of returning to -camp. Then a bright idea struck me, and taking the -siren whistle which I carried on my belt, I blew a piercing -blast. A rustle! and the buck leapt out of some grass -which I imagined would not have covered a mouse, -and dashed off. To throw down the whistle was the -work of a second, and a quick double-barrel brought the -little brute at last to grass. I was more than delighted, -and realizing that I had obtained a new species of antelope, -as the eyes, lips, horns, and hoofs showed no trace of -albinoism, skinned it with loving care, and carried it -back to camp. Dr. Sclater of the Zoological Society -has kindly described it for me. I called it Thomasina's -reedbuck (</span><em class="italics">Cervicapra Thomasinæ</em><span>) after the lady who -is now my wife.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The following day I slew another good bull pookoo, -which took more killing than any buck I have ever -shot. The pookoo's tenacity of life is proverbial among -those who are acquainted with this most beautiful little -antelope. They have a curious gland about 4 in. below -the head in the side of the neck.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The Wankonde play a curious little musical instrument -resembling in conception a zither: the strings (six -or seven in number) are stretched on a back of hollow -reeds; it is held under the leg when sitting, and fingered -like the Maderia machette with the right hand, the -strings being stopped with the left. They also play -on a bow with a gourd or cocoanut-shell as a sounder, -and a species of guitar.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Having received a note to the effect that porters -had at last come in, I returned to Karonga to prepare -for my final march of two hundred and ten miles west -to Tanganyika.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>On the way I stopped for a day with Mr. Fox, who -was managing the telegraph construction across the -plateau. The line was just opened to Karonga from -Salisbury, and Mr. Mohun had put up the first telephone -seen on Lake Nyassa between Karonga and Mr. Fox's -camp. The work of construction up the west coast -of Lake Nyassa had been attended with the greatest -possible difficulties from the precipitous and -densely-wooded nature of the country, and the pestilential -climate. These had, however, by superhuman efforts, -been overcome in the stipulated time by the handful of -men engaged on the work. A wide track, straight as an -arrow, up hill, down dale, across abysmal chasms, and -through swamps, had been cleared, and iron posts set -in iron shoes supported the wire. No one at home can -realize the stupendous difficulties that have been -overcome. But I from observation know, and take off -my hat in awed admiration of that gallant band who, -quietly, relentlessly, and without a murmur, have -accomplished the seemingly impossible. It stands out in bold -relief as a colossal monument of what the Anglo-Saxon -can do, and will ever sigh to the African wind the greatness -of that master mind which, in spite of the fossilized -apathy of the British Government, has raised a British -South Africa to be a dominant factor in the world's -history of the future. It was instructive to mark the -characteristic distinction between Mr. Rhodes' telegraph -expedition and the expedition of the King of the -Belgians. On the one hand was an unassuming handful of -men (without a single armed man), whose very existence -might easily have been overlooked by the casual passer-by. -Yet behind them lay many hundreds of miles of perfected -work which brought the far interior of Africa within a -minute of Cape Town; before them stretched an -arrow-like clearing to Tanganyika (two hundred miles long), -waiting for the transport service to bring poles and wire. -Quiet men, rotten with fever, were being carried to and -fro--inspecting, measuring, and trenching. Above their -base floated a diminutive Union Jack; no pomp, no -fuss, not even a bugle; yet all worked like clock-work. -On the other hand, a huge camp thundering with the -tramp of armed men, uninhabitable from the perpetual -blare of bugles, a very wilderness of flags. Gorgeous -and fussy Belgians strutting about in uniforms, screaming -and gesticulating, with a few sad-visaged Englishmen -doing the work--piles and piles of loads--and ever -those bugles. It resembled the triumphant march of -an army through the land, and the cost must have -been appalling. Yet months after they had eventually -arrived at Mtowa, nothing had been accomplished. -The petty jealousy of the local officials proved an -impenetrable barrier, and now if anything has been -accomplished, the wire has been merely slung on trees. -According to the latest reports, there had been trouble -with the natives, and the whole expedition had been -broken up, with the loss of most of the plant. There -is undoubtedly a quiet something about the Anglo-Saxon -that gets there somehow.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Fever overcame me once more, and I was confined to -my bed for several days; but at last, on January 24th, -I made a start, and marched to Mpata, the first -camping-place on the Stevenson Road. The Stevenson Road -is a clearing through the bush that covers the greater -part of the plateau, and barely deserves the title of road, -although in some places a few logs have been thrown -across the streams, and the more swampy portions have -been trenched.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The second stage brings one to Mkongwés, about -twenty-seven miles from Karonga. Chumbu, the next -halting-place, is fourteen miles further. The country is -very hilly, and the scenery not very attractive. At -intervals, intersecting the road, the telegraph clearing -sweeps on in its relentless line, looking like a gigantic -ride, where one expects every minute to see the white -tail of a scared bunny or a gorgeous cock-pheasant -bowling along as though on wheels. But one looks in vain; -no sign of life breaks that monotonous line stretching -away over the far hills till the trees at the side merge -together, and it is lost in the far distant horizon.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>A very long day's march brought us to Fort Hill, the -frontier station of Nyassaland, which is in charge of a -few black police. It had been very wet, as the rains -had broken, and I was exceedingly thankful to take -cover in the substantial house which is in the centre of -the stockade. I had a bull-calf with me, and gave it in -charge of one of my Askaris, who retaliated in the usual -annoying way of natives by coming and asking for some -string to lead it by. Asking for string is a common and -intangible form of insolence, as they make string from -the bark of several kinds of trees, very common all over -the country. But this time I scored. I had a large coil -of Alpine rope weighing about 20 lbs. I gave him this, -and told him on pain of death not to cut it. Then he -said, "It did not matter, he would make some." But -I was relentless. "He had asked for string, and I never -refused a reasonable request." That youth never again -asked for string. At Nyala the telegraph people have -built a substantial house, which is to be a telegraph -station and general depository of material; they have -selected an admirable position. A large blood-sucking -fly made life rather a burden; they settled so quietly -that one never felt them till they had driven a proboscis, -like a red-hot bodkin, half an inch into one's neck or -face. Amazing downpours every morning added to the -joys of life, and for several days I had to live in wet -clothes and sleep in wet blankets, while it was almost -impossible to start a fire. I had a sou'-wester and an oilskin, -but they were of no avail. The rain fell like a wave, and -with such force that it splashed up underneath, and one -was soon drenched to the neck by capillary attraction. -Passing through Mpansa we reached Ikawa on the 31st.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Ikawa is the first station of Northern Charterland, on -the Tanganyika Plateau. Mr. Mackinnon, the collector, -had gone to the Chambesi district to neutralize the -political machinations of a fractious missionary.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Nine miles further on is Fife, the A.L.C. station, and -the oldest settlement on the plateau. Mr. McCulloch, -who has been in charge for several years, tells some -delightful stories about his exciting experiences in the -old days of Arab predominance. Two members of -Lieut. Schleufer's expedition, which was endeavouring to -transport a steamer for the German Government to Lake -Tanganyika, were camped outside the walls waiting for -porters. They had some heavy loads with them on carts, -and had taken seven weeks to make the journey from -Karonga. Fife is the half-way house between Nyassa -and Tanganyika. From the verandah I looked out with -longing eyes over the vast Awemba country that lies at -the foot of the plateau. The view was superb, and -typical of Africa in its misty uncanniness. Mr. McCulloch -has planted splendid gardens, and we revelled in green -peas, new potatoes, cabbage, lettuce, and many other -European vegetables, all of which grow luxuriantly on -these altitudes. In the days of overcrowding not far -distant there will be a fine country for European -settlement on the Tanganyika Plateau. There is much fever -at present, but I think most of it is brought from the -low countries. The nights were quite cold, and fires -necessary for comfort. Mr. McCulloch has a wonderful -knowledge of the native; he is considered as a chief by -the large village close to the station, and is much respected -by the native chiefs for many miles round. I purchased -some beautiful wooden snuff-bottles from the Mambwe -people, and some extraordinary ear-plugs which are worn -by the women in the lobe of the ear; some of them were -2 in. in diameter.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The Anglo-German Boundary Commission had just -completed its task, and the new boundary enclosed many -of the large labour centres in the German sphere: some -of the chiefs, however, availed themselves of the time -limit allowed by proclamation, and came across to -British territory. But the Germans, contrary to the terms -of the agreement, had posted native police to intercept -and terrorize them into remaining. The Germans did -not behave very well over the boundary settlement, but -insisted on retaining a small strip of territory that fell to -their share, but which cut across the Stevenson Road, -though they were offered a handsome </span><em class="italics">quid pro quo</em><span> elsewhere. -However, the British collector set to work at once, -and in a few days took the road round the obstructing strip.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>At Ikomba, another B.S.A. station, I found that -Mr. Forbes had gone home, and promptly looted the -excellent new potatoes which I found in his garden. On -February 9th I reached Mambwe, and from there made -a trip down to the Awemba country, which is described -in the next chapter. On our return to Mambwe I was -laid up with a very severe attack of fever which did not -leave me for two months, till I reached the highlands -around Kivu. I was delirious for some time, but -improved sufficiently to be carried to Kawimbi, a mission -station near Abercorn. Mr. and Mrs. May were most -kind to me; the station is very pretty, and looks like -an English village with its picturesque little cottages and -numerous flower-beds. The following morning I was -carried on to Abercorn, although the missionaries kindly -pressed me to stay, promising to nurse me and make me -well. I was sorely tempted, but felt bound to hurry on. -At Abercorn I utterly collapsed for several days, and in -the intervals of delirium eked out a precarious existence -on Worcester sauce and limes. Here I heard a lion story. -The hero of the story (also the author) having been -told that a leopard was taking toll of the goats, built a -platform in a tree and sat up over a goat. Nothing, -however, turned up; but in the morning, tired of doing -nothing, he fired an arrow at a venture into a patch of -grass, and on going to pick it up, found that it had -transfixed the heart of a stupendous black-maned lion. -Considering the state of my health, I thought this rather -unkind. At last I was sufficiently recovered to move -once more, and was carried in a machila, under -Mr. Boyd's care, to Kituta, the A.L.C. station at the -south-eastern extremity of Tanganyika. The first glimpse of -those waters, round which so many dark tragedies have -been enacted, cheered me considerably. I had realized -another ambition, and had arrived at the real -starting-point of our Odyssey.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Kituta is a beautiful but pestilential spot, chiefly -remarkable for its abominable smells. It is also the scene -of another lion story which deserves perpetuation.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>There was once a very nervous agent in charge of the -station with a particular horror of lions. One of these -brutes commenced eating the natives of the village; -so the agent barricaded himself in his room and slept -with six native watchmen in case of attack. Hearing, -or thinking that he heard, the lion prowling round, he -fired out of the window and knocked a hole through the -administration boat. The following night he again -heard sounds and fired, bagging the collector's donkey -at the first shot. A certain well-known sportsman, who -was hunting in the vicinity, wrote in and congratulated -him on shooting his first lion. He rose to the occasion, -and now silences all sceptics by producing the letter, -and has acquired quite a reputation as a hunter of big -game.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>While purchasing trade-cloth for the journey north, -the carelessness of the British manufacturer was again -brought home to me. All the loads contained different -lengths, and as the marks had been rubbed off, the -operation lasted several hours instead of ten minutes; -and they were so badly packed that after a week's -knocking about most of them came undone, and the -contents were consequently in part spoiled. I wonder -when the British exporter will realize the advisability -of studying the requirements of his markets. Kituta -was at one time the call-place of many Arab caravans, -but now it has sunk into insignificance, although there -is a flourishing rubber trade in the country, which is -paying very handsomely.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst" id="the-chambesi"><span class="bold large">CHAPTER VII.</span></p> -<p class="center pnext"><span class="bold medium">THE CHAMBESI.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>On reaching Mambwe I had the good fortune to find -Mr. C. R. Palmer, the assistant-collector, on the -point of starting for the Chambesi, with the object of -waking up one or two of the chiefs who had been tardy -in sending in labour. His offer to take me with him, and -his glowing description of the game to be found there, -were so tempting that next morning I found myself on -the march to Tanzuka, a border village of the Mambwe; -and on the following day we entered the country -of the Awemba, a very powerful tribe apparently of -Zulu origin. The difference between these people and the -neighbouring Mambwe is as cheese from chalk: whereas -the latter are of the ordinary dirty, stunted, cringing or -insolent, ill-fed type of Central Africa, the former are of -a very striking caste. Among the upper class are some -magnificent specimens of the native, tall men of powerful -build, with much of the well-bred carriage of the Zulu; -their noses are straight and thin cut, their colour bronze; -and their hair, which they wear in grotesque tufts down -the middle of their head, is the only conspicuous negro -characteristic. Many of the young women, with their -regular features, beautiful colour, and small, delicate -hands and feet, are quite pleasing. Until the advent of -the Chartered Co. they led the rollicking life of the old -Zulus; herding cattle and depending for the meaner -necessaries of life and the replenishing of their harems -on the efforts of their neighbours. Far and wide they -used to raid even to the Atonga country on the east -coast of Tanganyika, and many and wonderful are the -tales told of their stupendous forced marches, when the -weaker members used to fall out and die from sheer -exhaustion. All the chiefs of any standing maintain -bands, composed of singers, drummers, and players on -the castanets, in which they take great pride. On the -approach of any visitors to whom they wish to do honour, -the band is sent forward to meet them; the leading part -is usually taken by a man who sings the theme, some of -them having remarkably fine voices, while the refrain -is taken up by other men, playing drums of hollow wood -with lizard or snake skin stretched over the apertures, -and a chorus of boys rattling pods containing dry seeds; -the whole is accompanied by grotesque dancing, the -main object of which appeared to be to go as near falling -down as possible without actually doing so. The strain, -like most African music, plays on about three notes -with untiring repetition, and, though rather pleasing at -first, palls after the fourth or fifth hour. Should a chief -find any singer of unusual power, he promptly removes -his eyes to prevent him from going elsewhere, and many -men thus mutilated are to be seen in every district. In -fact mutilation in various forms appears to be the chief -recreation of these autocrats. Mr. Palmer told me of -three youths who came in to him without their eyes, -which had been removed by their chief, because he thought -his people were getting out of hand; so to teach them -that he was still master he had selected haphazard these -three unfortunates. I also heard of some women who -had had their ears, lips, hands, and breasts cut off, and -who actually travelled a distance of about sixty miles -immediately afterwards to the collector of the district. -I myself saw many men who had similarly lost their -ears, lips, hands, or privates, and sometimes all these -parts.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Mr. Law, the able collector at Abercorn, who is known -to the natives by the appellation of the "Just man" (and -who, by the way, charged me £25 for my rhino about -six hours before I sailed north), when on some punitive -expedition in the Awemba country, captured a delightful -example of the grim humour of these pleasing gentry. -It consisted of a large sable horn rudely adorned and -fitted with a mask, into which the patient's head was -fitted, his throat having been previously cut with a -ferocious-looking knife, chiefly remarkable for its -bluntness; the blood spurting forth into the horn rang a -bell, a performance that gave general satisfaction, with, -I suppose, one exception. Some of their old kraals are -veritable fortresses, consisting of an outer ringed palisade -banked with clay and loopholed; inside is a deep trench, -and again an inner palisade similarly banked and -loopholed, with, in many cases, a third palisade containing -the chief's huts. The site is invariably selected on the -edge of a dense thicket, into which the women and cattle -are driven on the advent of strangers; nearly every -respectable member of society has a gun imported by -Arab traders from the north and Portuguese from the -south, and there must be several thousand in the country. -Such is the people who have been changed in half a -dozen short years from a cruel, murdering, widespread -curse into a quiet agricultural fraternity; and by -whom? By a mere handful of men with less than a -hundred native police, agents of that oppressor of the -native, the Chartered Company; and this without fuss -and practically without bloodshed. The chief industries -of the country are pombe[#]-drinking and the making of -bark cloth, which is a strong fibrous textile of a pleasing -reddish-brown colour, made by beating out the bark of -the fig-tree with little wooden hammers, till of the -required thinness. A curious custom prevails here, and -one that I have not noticed elsewhere in Africa, of -wearing mourning for dead relatives; bands of cloth -being tied round the head.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="noindent pfirst"><span class="small">[#] Pombe: an intoxicating drink made from millet.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>The following day we arrived at Changala's kraal; -he is a large, powerful man, with a face expressive of -determination and character. He came out two miles -to meet us, carried on the shoulders of one of his men, -as is the custom (for the chiefs never walk), with a -following of two or three hundred people. He, as in -fact did all the Awemba, gave us a very hearty -reception. Having amicably settled all outstanding -questions with Changala, we visited Makasa, the big man -of the country, whose head village lies about twenty-six -miles south-east of Changala's. He is a portly old -gentleman of unprepossessing countenance, and rather -inclined to make trouble--at a distance; however, -guessing our intentions, he had made great preparations -for our reception. On arrival we found our tents already -pitched and grass shelters built above them to keep off -the sun; while large crowds of obsequious gentlemen -came out to meet us and insisted on carrying in our -machilas at a run, a form of attention that would not -be appreciated by Accident Insurance Companies. His -village, which cannot contain less than five hundred huts, -is of the usual Awemba pattern, and is a great centre of -the bark-cloth industry.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Tales of rhino and elephant galore raised our hopes to -the highest pitch, and after a day's rest we launched -forth into the game country--a triangular patch of -country that lies at the junction of the Chambesi, and -its main tributary the Chosi--camping near Chipiri, the -original site of the French mission. Here we got our -first glimpse of the Chambesi, which, flowing with a -devious course into Lake Bangweolo, is the real source of -the Congo. It rises between Mambwe and Abercorn, -and at Chipiri is already a river of some size, flowing -through a beautiful grass plain clothed with patches of -waving spear-grass. The plain, varying in width from -a half to five miles, is hemmed in by forest bush and -park land, dotted over with innumerable ant-hills, some -30 ft. in height, and is the haunt of countless herds of -pookoo, two of which graced our larder shortly after -pitching camp.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The next afternoon we moved further down the river -to the Mafunso; and our carriers started a rhino on -the path, the spoor of which we followed in thick brush. -But, getting our wind, he departed with a derisive squeal, -and, though I nearly came up with him again, I was -compelled to give up the chase by nightfall, and only -found camp with considerable difficulty. Still further -down the river we camped in a delightful hunting-country, -the Chambesi plain lying to our south, the vast plain -of the Chosi to our east, and north, just behind the -camp, strips of bush alternating with glades and groves -of mahobahoba. The bush was ploughed up with rhino -spoor, and that afternoon both Palmer and I unsuccessfully -followed spoor of the morning. Never having seen -roan antelope, I was very anxious to shoot one, and the -following day started out with that intention. I found -several fresh spoors, but failed to make anything of -them, but on my way home I found recent lion tracks. -These I followed for about two hours; at times it was -very difficult, their soft pads leaving no impression on -the carpets of dead leaves in the patches of bush, but I -managed by casting round to pick the track up again -when at fault, and eventually, hearing a low growl, I -caught a glimpse of four yellow bodies disappearing -round the end of a bush-covered ant-hill. I ran as fast -as possible to the other side and almost into their midst; -they had tried the old, old lion tactics of doubling. -At sight of me they stood, and I put in a right and left; -off they galloped, I in hot pursuit, following, as I thought, -the first, who had got a fair shoulder-shot, and not -wishing to lose sight of her, because of the thickness of some -of the bush. I could just see her bounding round an -ant-hill, and was making a desperate spurt to see if she -would double, when I rushed round the corner of a bush -right on to the top of a tail. I lost no time in skipping -to one side; however, she was at her last gasp, gnawing -her forepaw and making that peculiar deep gurgle, -once heard, never forgotten, the lion's death-groan. I -found she was the recipient of the first barrel, and the -one I was following, which had dropped for a moment -to my second barrel, must have crossed when I lost -sight of them behind an ant-hill. Then to my disgust -I remembered that I had had a solid bullet in my second -barrel in case of an unexpected rhino. I picked up her -spoor and followed her all round the country for about -three hours, but she was playing the fool with me, and -though several times I must have been very near, I -never obtained another sight of her. The other two, -which were three parts grown, found her after a while, -and their spoor led over the top of all the ant-hills, -where they had stopped to watch me till I came too -close. To judge by the blood, I had hit her too far -back, and the solid bullet going right through would -make very little impression. This was the second time -I had dropped a right and left and lost one, and I was -grievously disappointed. The one I killed was a superb -lioness with unusually long hair, and she measured -8 ft. 5-½ in., from tip to tip, in the flesh. Owing to the hot, -rainy weather I had much difficulty in curing the skin, -but eventually made a complete success of it. I made -a raised quadrangular frame, upon which I stretched the -skin, with a grass roof to keep off the showers; then, in -default of any better preservative, I had wood-ash -continually rubbed in by relays of men.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Making short afternoon marches and hunting in the -morning, we gradually worked down the river to the -Chosi junction, then up the Chosi, which is a fine stream -about forty yards wide, with a large body of water, till -we arrived at Kalungu, a small isolated village, and the -only one between Makasa's village and the Chosi. I -made a circuit of the plain, waded some swamps, and -emerged on a second plain. Here, in the distance, I -saw three huge unwieldy monsters slowly threading -their way in and out of the numerous ant-hills, till they -vanished behind one larger than the rest. I had left -my glasses behind, and owing to the slight mirage could -not be sure whether they were rhino or hippo. Having -loaded the double 4-bore, I hurried forward, creeping -from ant-hill to ant-hill, till at last I arrived in a line -with the one behind which the brutes were still hidden. -Crawling cautiously up, I climbed to the top, the big -gun at the present, then peered over while my heart -beat the devil's tattoo. There they were, not fifteen -yards off, three of them, neither rhino nor hippo, but -camp boys, with three loads of wood by their sides, -peacefully smoking a hubble-bubble. I looked at them, -then back at the sickly grey face of my gun-bearer, his -teeth chattering with fright, and then marched into -camp, to find that Palmer had shot a splendid roan on -the high road.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Turning out early the next morning I struck the spoor -of the herd of roan, and after sixteen miles through water -ankle-deep, came up with them; but they saw me first, -and I only succeeded in dropping a good cow, which -stood on an ant-hill to have a last look at me. I had -arranged to join Palmer and the boys at Nondo, which -lies at the junction of the Mwenda and Chosi, but found -that he had gone further up the Mwenda and camped -at Chupi, which lies on the border of Luwala, the </span><em class="italics">pièce -de résistance</em><span> of our trip. At Nondo the Chosi forms a -wide pool, formerly the abode of numerous hippo till -the advent of one of the French priests, who murdered -the majority, for the satisfaction, I suppose, of seeing -them float down-stream. The same enterprising individual, -with other kindred spirits, organized a drive of -the herds of pookoo on the plain. Huge fences were -built at one end with funnel-shaped openings, where the -gallant sportsmen stationed themselves, and, if report -speaks true, slaughtered about two hundred. I wonder -how many they wounded? By the side of the pool is -an enormous pile of old hippo skulls that is regarded -with superstitious awe by the natives, and close by is -a sacred tree, the burial-place of some old chief, where -quite a respectable herd of cattle has accumulated from -the native offerings. East of the Chosi there is another -Awemba god, who dwells in a thicket decorated by a -wonderful collection of horns.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>When a big chief dies, they smoke him for a year -and then bury him in bark-cloth. The general belief is -that his spirit enters into a lion, an animal that they -hold in superstitious awe, and refuse to kill.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>From Chupi we marched into Luwala, a hitherto -unexplored tract of country. During the rains it is under -water, and is consequently quite uninhabited, a few -natives only camping there for fishing purposes, as the -waters begin to leave the plain. On the north and east -it is bounded by the Chosi for a distance of about sixty -miles, and on the west by a slight ridge covered with -bush, through which numerous streams flow and lose -themselves in the marshes, eventually draining into the -Chosi by the Mwenda.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Unfortunately we were too late in the season, the -rains having already broken, and were consequently -unable to penetrate far from the west side; even there -we were compelled to wade from camp to camp through -water from 6 in. to 3 ft. deep. The natives told us that -when the rains are drying up, immense numbers of game -come out from the bush to feed on the new grass round -the rapidly diminishing pools, and that often they could -see as many as half a dozen rhino at a time. It is also -a favourite haunt of the comparatively few elephant -that still roam over this country. On the first day's -trek we crossed rhino spoor about four to five hours -old, and as Palmer, who was out of form, was unwilling -to risk a long chase, I started off in pursuit. After -following for about an hour, I passed quite close to a -large herd of roan containing three or four magnificent -bulls, which stood and watched me at about forty yards. -I was sorely tempted, but held to my principle of never -leaving a spoor except for something better. For some -time the rhino had been travelling very fast, but -suddenly the spoor freshened, and from the side of an -ant-hill I saw a great pink body in the distance moving -slowly through the grass. It is curious how decidedly -pink hippo and rhino look at a distance. As there were -many large ant-hills about I followed the spoor right -out, and coming round the corner of one, suddenly saw -him about forty yards off just walking out into the huge -bare plain; but the birds, many of which were on his -back, saw me and gave the alarm. In turning he gave -me my broadside chance, and I fired the 4-bore, -burning fourteen drams and throwing a four-ounce spherical -ball; then, as he swung round to bolt, I popped in a -forward raking second barrel, which quickened his pace -considerably. He rushed round in a half-circle to try -and get my wind, while I peppered him with .303 solid -bullets, which appeared to have about the same effect -as hailstones. When he got my wind he stopped short -and faced me, then swayed from side to side, staggered, -recovered himself, and finally, with a shrill squeal, -toppled over, kicking his four fat little legs in the air, -and gave up the ghost, or the rhino's equivalent, there -being nothing very spectral about these incongruous old -survivals of the past. Choleric, dyspeptic, unsociable -old fellows with a lordly contempt for, and fixed -determination to suppress all such indecent innovations as -guns, Cape wagons, and Mombasa railway-trains, they -always remind me of those fire-eating, civilian-repressing, -cheroot-smoke-belching Bagstocks who frequent -Madeira, the Lake of Geneva, and other temperate and -economical resorts, and who glare at all newcomers -with that peculiar bloodshot ferocity only to be acquired -by many years of curry, Bombay duck, and unlimited -authority over servile millions. Owing to the difficulty -of providing food for the large mob of Mambwe who -had accompanied us to see in safety their old masters, -the Awemba, the meat was very acceptable. The rhino -was a large bull. Being particularly anxious to preserve -the head, I took the trouble to cut through the hide all -round to be sure of having sufficient neck-skin, and, to -avoid any possibility of mistake, I left a boy by the -carcase; yet in the evening it arrived in two -detachments, having been considerately hacked in two to -facilitate carriage.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>After floundering about the country for miles and -camping on isolated ant-hills, surrounded by sheets of -water, and as, owing to the continued rains in the hills, -the water was daily rising, we were compelled to retreat -north-west. Here we made two more ineffectual efforts -to penetrate into the interior. So, cursing the rains, we -marched to the Luchewe, the largest of the streams -which flow into Luwala, and following its valley, arrived -at Kyambi, the mission station of the Pères Blancs. -Here, with their usual enterprise and abilities, they have -constructed a splendid two-storied building with a large -cloister-like verandah, surrounded, as are all their other -stations, by a solid, fortified wall; outside they have -collected a large village and laid out extensive irrigated -gardens well stocked with bananas, limes, lemons, and -other fruits. The priests were most charming hosts. -Their hospitality is, indeed, famed throughout Central -Africa.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>From Kyambi we marched straight into Mambwe, -where we arrived drenched to the skin; and two days -later I was down with an attack of fever which lasted -till I reached the highlands of Kivu.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst" id="tanganyika"><span class="bold large">CHAPTER VIII.</span></p> -<p class="center pnext"><span class="bold medium">TANGANYIKA.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>At last, on April 2nd, we sailed from Kituta in the -</span><em class="italics">Good News</em><span>.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Mr. Mohun and a large number of his Zanzibaris were -with me. Consequently there was not much room. The -</span><em class="italics">Good News</em><span> was originally the property of an English -Mission on the Lake, and when the Mission moved to -find healthier quarters, the steamer was sold at a -ridiculously low figure to the African Lakes Corporation, -although, I believe, the Administration of Northern -Rhodesia offered a larger sum. A large hole had been -knocked in her bottom and filled up with cement; -and the machinery was tied together with string and -strips of sardine-tins. Vast cockroaches were in -possession, and night was made hideous by their peregrinations; -some of them were almost as large as mice, and -it was a great strain on one's mosquito-curtain when they -climbed up the sides in droves. Mr. Mohun endured -them all night, but I, in a very few minutes, gave up -the unequal fight and retired on deck.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Our noble captain, who was quite new to the lake, -did not know where he was going, nor did he care. His -idea of navigating a boat consisted in sleeping in his -bunk until the natives told him we had arrived -somewhere; even then, he never inquired what the place -was. His only anxiety was lest he should oversleep -himself and miss a meal.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>In the evening we arrived at the Congo Free State -post of M'liro, which is at the south-western corner of -the lake, a few miles over the Anglo-Congolese boundary.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>On board I discovered two of the boys who had gone -up with Sharp, and who had been left at Kituta. At -Kituta I had given instructions that they were to be -sent back; so the following morning, having crossed -the lake to a wooding station, on the eastern shore, I -turned them off with their pay and cloth to buy food -on the road; but one of them, on adventure bent, slipped -on board again. During the night, finding the sleeping-places -rather limited, he calmly threw a crate containing -twenty-eight fowls, belonging to Mr. Mohun, overboard.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>On April 4th we recrossed the lake and arrived at the -French Mission Station of M'bala. This station is of -several years' standing, and the Fathers, who are seven -in number, with several lay brothers, have built -themselves a substantial and comfortable home. They have -also built a magnificent cathedral, capable of holding -many hundred devotees. I am afraid it would need a -large expenditure of cloth and medals to fill it. There -are also elaborate workshops, and the gardens, which -are very extensive, are planted with numbers of flourishing -fruit trees. The coffee-shrubs were particularly -remarkable for their size and yield. On the walls were -many gigantic sable heads. The horns of one that I -measured were 46-½ in.; while many others were almost -as long. All these antelope had been shot in the -immediate vicinity by native hunters employed on the -mission station. It was here that the record sable head -which Mr. Boyd presented to me was obtained; and -it is evident that these sable must be the largest in -the world. They also had a few rhino horns, which had -been shot in the neighbourhood.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>They gave us a tremendous dinner, with a bewildering -profusion of courses and some luscious kinds of fruit, -amongst which the </span><em class="italics">ceil-de-boeuf</em><span> was particularly soothing; -and delicious Algerian wine flowed freely round the -festive board. There are two or three white sisters at -the station; it was very sad to see how ill they looked.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>After dinner, some natives brought in a large catch -of fish, amongst which was a splendid kind of -white-fleshed salmon. The Fathers informed me that this -fish, at that time of the year, runs up the small streams, -and jumps up waterfalls of considerable height.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The charming point about these white Fathers is that -they never ply one with fantastic accounts of the work -which they are doing. When we regretfully took our -leave, they presented us with several large baskets of -potatoes, tomatoes, pomegranates, and many other fruits -and vegetables.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Along this shore there are enormous dug-out canoes, -and we were carried to and from the steamer in one very -fine specimen, probably 40 ft. in length.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>On the run up to M'towa, we encountered a terrific -sea, and were for several hours in imminent danger of -turning turtle. The wind rushes down the narrow gulleys -between the mountains that enclose the lake, and lashes -the waters into a very frenzy. The arrival of these -squalls is very sudden and impossible to predict; -consequently, sailing on Lake Tanganyika is a most -dangerous amusement. All the natives were most abominably -ill, everything was wet, and the cabin and the captain -formed an impossible combination.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Early in the morning the tempest subsided and we -made M'towa, which is the chief Congo station on the -lake. Here all the officials in the district had collected, -having ignominiously fled from the rebels. One gentleman -who had retired from a station further up the lake, -had thrown all the station ammunition and ivory into -the lake, solely on a report that the rebels were within -a hundred miles. The rebels, hearing of the action, -went to the place and quietly fished up both the ivory -and the cartridges, thereby gaining a new lease of life. -At M'towa the Belgians had built elaborate defences -and had protected all the approaches with barbed wire; -and in case the rebels should come they had cut down -all the bananas, and were consequently short of food. -There were one or two unfortunate Scandinavians in the -service, who were being thrown out as pickets. One -of these gentlemen came and asked us for some poison, -in case he should be caught by the rebels with his totally -inadequate force.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>This chaotic condition has now lasted for five years, -and there appears to be no man capable of grappling -with the situation; it seems to me a great pity that -they did not allow Commandant Henry, whom I afterwards -met on the Nile, to follow up his preliminary -successes against the rebels. Had he been given a free -hand, in all probability the revolution would have been -crushed long since.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Mr. Mohun's expedition was camped on a hill about a -mile from the Government station, and they complained -of most indifferent treatment at the hands of the local -officials. Although they had been ready to start operations -for more than six weeks, the officials had failed to -provide them with any labour. It was obvious that -there was much jealousy and friction between the -expedition and the authorities. Fortunately, the King of -the Belgians had sent Mr. Mohun a supplementary -commission, which would give him the free hand necessary -to the successful carrying out of his difficult task.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>I was very pleased to again meet Sharp, as we had -been separated for nearly three months. He was looking -very ill, having only recently been laid up with fever in -Ujiji. Dr. Castellote, the medical officer of Mr. Mohun's -expedition, and who I am grieved to learn has recently -died of fever, hearing of Sharp's sorry plight, crossed -the lake and brought him over to the comparatively -healthy uplands near M'towa.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Sharp had visited the station of the white Fathers on -the east coast of the lake, where we had only put in to -obtain wood. He told me that there was an elaborate -church of brick with stained-glass windows, where he -had attended service. He had been much amused at -watching dirty little nigger boys from the village passing -in at one door, draped in the usual filthy strip of greasy -cloth, and presently emerging from another door clad in -scarlet cassocks and lace tippets, waving censers, etc.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Bidding a regretful farewell to our good telegraph -friends, and wishing them every luck in their venture, -Sharp and I, with a mean temperature of 104°, repaired -across the lake to Ujiji.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>It was with feelings of curiosity that I looked out for -the first time on the one historic spot in Central Africa. -A few mango trees and a few white buildings scattered -about on the top of the long, gently sloping shore of -the lake: such was Ujiji, the meeting-place of Stanley -and Livingstone, and the heart of the great slave-raiding -ulcer of the past.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>After considerable difficulty, we landed all our -belongings by means of some unstable dug-out canoes; and -having piled them on the beach, left them in charge of -our boys, while we rode on donkeys, sent to us by the -Greek merchant, through a gruesome array of grinning -skulls that still lie scattered about the beach, the last -relic of the days of Arab predominance.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>We were given beds in an old mission-house which is -now tenanted by two Greek traders, who, by their -enterprise, richly deserve the success which they are enjoying. -The old mission-house is substantially built, and is -surrounded by enormous mango and guava trees.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Having fixed up our loads, we crawled up to the -Government house to pay our respects to Hauptmann -Bethe, the German chief of the station; he is a most -delightful specimen of a German officer. He treated -us with every kindness and showered the most lavish -hospitality upon us. Without his cordial co-operation, -we should never have been able to take the route </span><em class="italics">via</em><span> -Kivu, on which we had set our hearts. He strongly -advised us to go by the hackneyed route by Tabora -and the Victoria Nyanza, the road by which Dècle went -from Ujiji to Uganda, and which is the high-road for all -the caravans that ply between the Victoria Nyanza and -Tabora, and Ujiji and Tabora. He informed us that it -would be most risky to take the route which we intended -without at least a hundred armed men.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>He also told us that the Congolese rebels had sent a -deputation to him to tell him that they intended once -more to attack the Belgians. They asked whether, in -the event of failure, they would be allowed to hand their -guns in to him, and to come over and settle in German -territory. This is an indication of the natives' feeling -towards the Congo Free State Administration.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Unfortunately both Sharp and I were too ill to see -much of Ujiji and its interesting people. Many charming -old Arabs, clad in gorgeous array, came and paid their -respects, and sent us many presents, such as fruit, eggs, -and vegetables. It was sad to see these venerable old -gentlemen in their then condition, and to think of how, -in the good old days gone by, they had held undisputed -sway over many, many thousand square miles.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The day after our arrival we lunched with Hauptmann -Bethe and his staff. We were plied with the most -bewildering succession of drinks; starting with port, then -through successive courses of champagne, brandy, beer, -Vermouth, and claret, we slowly wended our way, with -the temperature 110° in the shade. This diet, the -Germans informed us, was absolutely essential to avoid -fever. They protested that no teetotaller who had -arrived in Ujiji had ever left Ujiji for any other place in -this world; and certainly the Germans who were there -were living examples of the efficacy of their treatment.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The courtesy, assistance, and confidence which we -received in the German sphere shone bright in contrast -with much of the treatment which we received under -our own flag; and our warmest thanks are due to those -whole-hearted Germans who are upholding the honour -of the Fatherland on the far distant shore of Tanganyika.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>My fever, which had now lasted for more than three -weeks, took a decided turn for the worse, and I began -to lose the proper control of my hands. Sharp, on the -other hand, was slightly better.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>We witnessed several dances. It was quite easy to -start one, by providing the funds necessary to obtain a -considerable quantity of native beer, when the natives -would arrive in hundreds in the market-place and -perform the wildest and most grotesque dances imaginable. -Hauptmann Bethe arranged a most elaborate one for -our edification.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>At last, on April 12th, we had organized our caravan -of one hundred and thirty men, and made a start up -the lake. We had been compelled to leave some loads -behind, and it was not till four in the afternoon that -the last man left the courtyard. We had had no -difficulty in recruiting as many men as we wanted, as the -Germans afforded us every facility.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>We only marched out sufficiently far to get our caravan -quite clear of Ujiji; and the Germans kindly sent out -a few soldiers to avoid any trouble with the men, the -last farewell of the natives being invariably accompanied -by much pombe. However, they all turned up, and we -got them into some sort of order. I had brought from -Nyassa sixteen boys--ten of whom had been drilled for -a few days by one of Mr. Mohun's Zanzibari sergeants--two -of them were kitchen boys, and the other four -gun-bearers and tent-pitchers: this made our caravan one -hundred and fifty strong.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Sharp ignored the mosquitoes the first night, and in -consequence suffered severely from blood poisoning of -the hands. The path led through a fertile country, but -as the high grass overhung the narrow track, it was -very wet travelling and not conducive to a speedy -recovery from fever. The way became gradually worse -and we had many sharp rises to face, and many small -streams to cross, while satisfactory camping-grounds were -hard to find. On the fourth day, after a struggle up an -almost perpendicular hill, we camped at an elevation -of nearly 6,000 ft., and obtained some lovely views over -the country to the east--high, tree-covered hills, with a -few native huts and their accompanying gardens in -clearings where the ground was not too steep, and, down -below, deep valleys covered with dense bush--while to -the west we could just catch a glimpse of the lake backed -by the rugged and forbidding-looking hills on the Congo -side.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>A cold white mist came up in the afternoon, and put -all thoughts of scenery away, driving us to refuge in -tightly-closed tents.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Next day we mounted still higher--about 7,000 ft.--and -the scenery amply repaid the exertion. From thence -we made a rapid descent by a path so steep and rough -that we had to glissade at times with the aid of a strong -spear. At the villages here we found the people -wearing wooden tweezers on their noses; on inquiry we -discovered that they injected snuff mixed with water, -and then put the apparatus on to keep the concoction -from wasting away at once. A day or two later we -reached the lake-shore, and the path, such as it was, -came to an end. We now had to make our way along -the shingle. The bush overhung the water every few -yards, and as it was mostly mimosa, or other equally -prickly matter, we had to wade round to avoid it--often -up to our middles in the water--while an occasional -mountain torrent necessitated our being carried on our -boys' shoulders. As the lake was swarming with -crocodiles, this was rather exciting. Our Nyassa boys, who -had earned the name of the Guinea-fowls, owing to their -dress of dark-blue bird's-eye cotton and greeny-blue -fezzes, had been a great comfort, pitching our tents -and doing all the little odd jobs inseparable from camp -life, and we were congratulating ourselves on having -some natives of a different race to our Manyema porters.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The heat and continual wetting now began to tell on -the fever which we had not been able to shake off, so -we hired two big canoes, and putting our deck-chairs -in the largest, over which we rigged up an awning, we -proceeded by water while our boys plodded through the -shingle. On reaching the halting-place after our first -day's canoeing, we were horrified to find that our ten -Askaris and the cook had bolted, leaving their rifles and -bayonets on the path. Though I was bad with fever -I got a fresh crew for the big canoe, and made all haste -back to our last night's camp. Nothing was to be seen -or heard of the fugitives, and though I offered the -Sultani (chief) of the village heavy rewards for each captive, -we never heard any more of them, but trust that they -did not escape their deserts when they reached Ujiji, if -the natives on the way let them go free, which is more -than doubtful. I had left Sharp to try his 'prentice -hand at cooking, and returning wet through, very tired -and full of fever, found his attempt at soup had ended -in a few bones and a blob of fat at the bottom of the -pan! The heat was intense, never a breath of air, and -no shade, while the rays of the burning sun were refracted -from the face of the water. At every camp one or more -of the neighbouring chiefs came to pay his respects, -bringing with him a present, according to his standing, -of pombe, native beer, bananas, three or four fowls, and -in the case of a big "swell," two or three goats or sheep. -Each chief was followed by as large a retinue as he could -gather, and most of them were dressed in semi-Arab -fashion--a long, white shirt or "kanzu," a coloured -cloth, and a turban or white head-dress. The natives -had many knives of local manufacture, the sheaths of -which were ornamented with well-carved patterns, while -their spears were very thin and light, and often adorned -with brass and copper wire. Of course we had to make -return presents of cloth and beads to an equal value. -Eggs were rather hard to obtain, and it was still more -difficult to make the natives believe that we did not -want them for electioneering purposes. My fever was -now so bad that I had to depute my baking to Sharp, -who was becoming quite a passable cook under my -tuition, and retire to bed as soon as I could get my -tent pitched. To add to our enjoyment Sharp got a -sunstroke and a dose of fever, and we were consequently -reduced to the most pitiable plight. My temperature -went up to 106.9, and left me too weak to move, while -Sharp, ill as he was, made superhuman efforts to look -after me. At last, after several days of intolerable -misery, we eventually arrived at Usambara, where the -German official, Lieutenant von Gravert, took us in -hand. Under his care we recovered slightly.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Usambara, with characteristic German thoroughness, -has been well laid out. Substantial buildings have been -put up, good gardens made, and an immense avenue of -pawpaws and bananas planted from the Government -House to the lake shore. A small sailing-boat adds -materially to the comfort and efficiency of the -commanding officer.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Every morning a large market is held, and the natives -bring in enormous supplies of fish, bananas, beans, grains -of different sort (even rice), and fowls. The German -black troops keep splendid order, and the station has the -most flourishing air. I am a great believer in the -Germans' African methods. Of course they are severely -handicapped by having such a poor country to work -upon. But their methods are thorough and eminently -practical, and not characterized by the stinginess which -paralyzes most of our African efforts. The men selected -for the work are given a practically free hand, and are -not cramped by the ignorant babblings of sentimentalism.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst" id="the-rusisi-valley"><span class="bold large">CHAPTER IX.</span></p> -<p class="center pnext"><span class="bold medium">THE RUSISI VALLEY.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>At last, on May 7th, we were sufficiently recovered -to move, and bidding farewell to our good friend, -Lieutenant von Gravert, we left Usambara and made a -short march along the lake shore to Kijaga, a deserted -Government station near the most easterly mouth of -the Rusisi.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Being still much too weak to walk, I was carried in a -hammock slung from a pole by a team of twelve natives -of Usige kindly recruited for me by Lieutenant von -Gravert, who were to take me to Dr. Kandt's -headquarters on Kivu, where the climate of the highlands, -it was hoped, would render me sufficiently strong to -continue my journey on foot.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>After the trained "machila" teams of Nyassaland -they were very crude, and many amusing incidents arose -from their inexperience. However, they were willing, -and served me very well.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The northern shore of the lake is flat and sandy, and -for a long distance from land the water is very shallow; -even at a distance of two miles hippopotami could walk -on the bottom with their heads above water. The -natives are great fishermen, and own many dug-out -canoes; they fish mainly at night. There was little -moon at the time, and we could see scores of canoes -punting about, each with a great flaming torch in the -bows, and the fishermen with poised spears eagerly -scanning the water. The effect of the number of -dimly-defined canoes gliding to and fro on the oily water, of -the strong reflection of the flaming torches, and of the -phosphorescent wash was most picturesque.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The Rusisi, which is the outflow of Lake Kivu, falls -into Lake Tanganyika through five mouths, four of -which are close together slightly to the east of the centre -of the northern shore, while the fifth is on the extreme -western point under the gigantic hills that line the -western shore. The enclosed deltas are very flat and -swampy, and in part covered with forest, the haunt of -many elephant, a large portion of which are said by the -Arabs to be tuskless.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>During many weary days of sickness at Usambara, I -had gazed up that mighty valley, the vast flat gently -merging into endless vistas of purple hills, behind winch -lay the mysterious waters of Kivu and the giant -volcanoes (the pulse of Africa), flanked by two massive -walls of mountains--the path that led to the yet -unknown, the first real stage of the task that we had set -ourselves! And for long it seemed as though I had -struggled thus far only to die at the very gate. The -extraordinary beauty of the scene fascinated me, and -with its eddying mists and fading hills, redolent of -mystery, it seemed a fitting entry to an unknown -land.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>At Kijaga we rose to find that our cook and the three -boys whom we had engaged at Usambara had bolted in -the night, taking with them their month's pay and two -months' rations. We immediately sent a note in to -Von Gravert, and his police very cleverly caught them -two days later, although they tried to go down to Ujiji -by a path that leads over the hills at the back of the -station. The capture was a very clever one, and reflects -great credit on the German administrative organization.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Our cow-boys were a great nuisance; they refused to -go near one of the cows which kicked, and they evidently -considered that the little milk they succeeded in -extracting from the others had been earned by the trouble -of extraction, consequently what eventually arrived for -us was limited in quantity. A strong protest, backed -by mild physical correction, produced a larger quantity, -but it was sour, and on inquiry we found that they had -drunk our fresh milk, and for a small consideration -purchased some sour milk from a neighbouring chief; they -foolishly brought it stone cold, ostensibly fresh from the -cow. They assured us that all the cows in that country -produced sour milk.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>For the first fifteen miles the valley is absolutely flat, -and deposits of semi-fossilized shells indicate a -historically recent upheaval.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>There are two streams, the Mpanda and Kazeki, flowing -from the east; the former has a considerable volume -of water.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The flat, which is about two miles wide, is covered -with very short, poor-looking grass, and dotted here -and there with magnificent specimens of the candelabra -euphorbia, looking in the distance like gigantic cabbages. -An occasional palm-tree breaks the desolate monotony, -and a very occasional small antelope lends a suggestion -of life.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>To the west the Rusisi makes a long curve towards -the enclosing mountain range, and in places spreads out -into swampy lagoons apparently of some extent.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Our carriers had been giving much trouble, lagging -behind and not arriving till two or three hours after our -arrival, hoping thereby to escape fatigue duties. It was -most desirable to have the caravan as compact as possible -on the march, in view of possible troubles with the -natives.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>We allowed them, therefore, half an hour's margin, and -every one who arrived after that, without having obtained -permission in the morning for sickness or some valid -reason, was made to stand with his load on his head in -the middle of camp as long as was deemed sufficient for -his particular case. We found this much more effectual -as a punishment than fines (a system to be deprecated, -except in Government stations). The native enjoys his -afternoon nap, he likes to stroll into the neighbouring -villages, show his best clothes off before the local beauties, -and pass the time of day with the village cronies. It -jars on him to have to stand doing nothing while he -sees his friends chatting and discussing their bananas -and the topics of the day. One such punishment usually -sufficed for at least a month, and a native must be very -much impressed to remember anything for as long as -that.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Fifteen miles from Kijaga there is a bunch of large -villages. The chief is called Balamata. They are -situated on the advance spur of a line of conical peaks -which divide the main valley into two sections: the -western branch, which trends north-west by north, is -the valley of the Rusisi; while the eastern branch, which -trends north-east by north, comes from Kirimbi and -Imbo. Close to Balamata a small stream flows from -the central peaks towards the eastern valley, and as -we did not pass any stream of consequence, I imagine -that this small stream and the whole of the drainage of -the valley loses itself in the swamp which I could plainly -see a few miles to the east.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Passing round the western side of Balamata's peaks, -we found the country similar to the first stage of the -valley, flat and dotted with euphorbia, the mean -altitude being slightly higher than the lake level. We -passed over two extraordinary ravines dug out of the -flat country. One was evidently a dry stream-bed, but -the other appeared to have no outlet, and I could find -no satisfactory clue to its origin.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The Rusisi here flows under the eastern wall; it is a -large body of water flowing through wide expanses of -papyrus, and is probably navigable for small steamers -to a point forty miles north of the lake.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The population is very scanty. The scattered villages -and their cattle-pens are enclosed by artificial -hedges of euphorbia.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>A large stream, the Kagunozi, flows down from the -east a few miles north of Balamata's, and three miles -further north is the village of Buvinka, a chief of some -importance.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>North of Buvinka's, a large stream called the Kabulantwa -flows into the Rusisi from the east, which appears -to be very broken and mountainous in the distance. -We had much difficulty in crossing the stream with -our cattle and goats, owing to the power of the current. -Several goats were washed away, but with the exception -of two, all were eventually rescued by the boys, who -were expert swimmers. In places the stream narrowed -considerably, forming foaming rapids, and it was splendid -to see some of the Manyema shooting down like arrows -in pursuit of an old billy-goat, eventually dragging him -half drowned on to the bank. Some of the cows refused -to enter the water, and had to be forcibly dragged -across by ropes.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Opposite the junction of the Kabulantwa and the -Rusisi, the western range of hills sends a long spur down -into the valley, culminating in a well-defined conical -peak, which abuts on the river, and is a splendid -landmark for many miles north and south.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The dominant peaks at the back are very striking, -and apparently at least 7,000 ft. high; they are very -rugged, and in parts heavily wooded.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>A few miles north of the Kabulantwa the valley again -splits into two; the eastern branch is drained by a -small and very rapid stream called the Muhira, which -appears to be a highroad for elephant crossing the -valley. The western branch is the valley of the Rusisi; -it is very flat, and covered with coarse grass with slight -thorn-scrub at the sides; part of it is marshy.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>We camped in a scattered village of considerable size, -thickly planted with bananas. The Rusisi flows close -by, cutting its way through a dyke, which crosses the -valley. The country here was much more broken, and -our camp was about 300 ft. above the lake level.</span></p> -<div class="align-center auto-scaled figure margin" style="width: 100%" id="figure-75"> -<span id="one-or-more-of-the-neighbouring-chiefs-came-to-pay-his-respects"></span><img class="align-center block" style="display: block; width: 100%" alt="One or more of the neighbouring Chiefs came to pay his Respects." src="images/img-129.jpg" /> -<div class="caption centerleft figure-caption margin"> -<span class="italics">One or more of the neighbouring Chiefs came to pay his Respects.</span></div> -</div> -<p class="pnext"><span>The natives have a good supply of cattle, and live in -scattered villages of considerable size; they are well set -up, with good faces, high foreheads, and not prognathous -to a conspicuous degree; they all carry long, slight, -spears with small heads, and long sword-knives with -elaborately-decorated sheaths. They also use a -long-bladed axe with a hook on the end for cutting bananas, -the handle of which is also elaborately decorated with -iron, copper, and brass. On their arms they wear many -wire rings and large wooden bracelets of curious shape.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>In the evening I discovered an enormous jigger in my -small toe, and one of my Watonga boys skilfully removed -it; the bag of eggs was the size of a marrowfat pea, and -as there was only the bone and top part of my toe left -I was afraid that I should lose it; however, after giving -me some trouble, it yielded to the persuasive influence -of that panacea for all African ills, permanganate of -potash, and healed.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>During the night a hyæna grabbed one of the goats, -and tore the poor brute so badly that it had to be killed. -The following morning, after crossing some very -broken country, and fording a deep stream called the -Nyamgana, we arrived at the first of the three -Soudanese forts, established by the Germans on the Rusisi -to prevent raids of the Congolese rebels.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The treaty boundary, between the Congo and German -East Africa of 1885, runs from the mouth of the Rusisi -to cut the 30th degree east longitude, at a point 1° 20' -south of the equator. Hence all these three posts are -well within the Congo Free State. The Germans have -cleverly availed themselves of the Congolese chaos, and -having placed these advance posts for the plausible -object of defending their country, by occupying the -natural line of defence afforded by the river, are now -pleading effective occupation. In the meanwhile -Dr. Kandt, under the auspices of the German Government, -is investigating the possibilities of the country. On his -report the Germans will know whether the country is -worth a struggle.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The fort is well placed on a flat-topped hill -overhanging the river, which here races along between -precipitous rocks, and although it is only in charge of a -native officer, it is clean and well kept. The troops -are Wanyamwesi, officered by Soudanese.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>We camped on the north bank of the Nyakagunda, a -large stream flowing from the east; here again a line -of rounded hills (a long spur of the mass of hills that -hems in the north end of the valley) cuts the valley -into two branches. The main or Rusisi branch is still -flat and grass-covered, and obviously an old lake-bed; -while the eastern branch, down which flows the -Nyakagunda, is broken by many small hills.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>About an hour before sunset some natives rushed in -to say that they had seen elephant close to camp; -they said that they were travelling, so that there was -not a moment to be lost. To put the 4-bore together -was a question of seconds, and hurriedly collecting the -few necessaries, and ordering my "machila" team to -follow, as I was still very weak, I dashed off in the direction -indicated. Sharp had, unfortunately, not yet unpacked any -of his 10-bore cartridges, and as every minute was precious -at that time of day, it would have been useless to wait.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>About two miles from camp we found the elephants; -they had stopped, and were standing round a clump -of euphorbia. Making a detour to catch the wind, I -approached them, 4-bore in hand, and with one boy -carrying the .303 behind me. There was absolutely -no cover, but, to my astonishment, they took not the -slightest notice of me. Gathering confidence from this, -I went quite close and inspected them. There were -twenty-nine in all, mostly cows, some of which, -however, had enormously long, thin tusks. Taking care -to avoid any sudden movements which would be likely -to attract their attention, I passed to leeward of them, -so close to some that I could have touched them with -my rifle. The three bulls were at the far end, and I -at length made up my mind which one to take. The -cartridge missed fire, and at the same moment the -middle bull, which had appeared small, lifted his head -from behind a small euphorbia and showed a pair of -very massive tusks, almost black from use. Inwardly -blessing the miss-fire, I went up to within six yards of -him, when the one I had left caught a puff of my wind -and cocked his ears; that was all he did; he never -made a sound of any description, yet the whole -twenty-nine (many of which had their backs turned, or were -completely hidden by the euphorbia) moved off -instantly. As the black-tusked male swung round, I -gave him the first barrel on the shoulder, and again -the second barrel at nine yards; he dropped on to one -knee, but never even lost his stride; the others closed -round him, and helped him away, and that was the -last I saw or heard of my first elephant. I was too -weak to follow far, and the next morning I sent out -some of our boys with local natives, but they never -found him. When hunting elephant and other game, -the extraordinary ease with which they pass on the -danger-signal has often made me wonder whether they -have another sense, which we, by disuse, have practically -lost. Perhaps even with us it survives in a rudimentary -form, causing the inexplicable phenomena of second -sight, mesmerism, etc., etc.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The next morning we followed the eastern branch, -and passing many steep hills, crossed a pass 5,500 ft. -high, and again descended into the main valley. Numerous -small streams intersected the hills, and at each ford -clouds of gorgeous butterflies enlivened the scene, -attracted apparently by the moisture. On the way we -crossed many fresh tracks of elephant, and on the -western slope of the valley a large herd had followed -the track in the early morning. At the base of the -slope we had much difficulty in fording a deep and -rapid river, called the Kasilo; several goats and a calf -were washed away, and the rest were only saved by the -brilliant swimming of the Watonga contingent. Thence -two hours' hard travelling brought us to the second -German Soudanese fort, situated on a small hill -overlooking the Rusisi, where it issues from its broken -course through the mountains which dam the south -end of Lake Kivu, preparatory to its seventy-five-mile -run through the flat valley bed to Lake Tanganyika.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The Soudanese officer in command was most courteous -and personally presented all the local potentates, who -brought us supplies of bananas, flour, and goats. He -also promised to try and trace my lost elephant, but -said that if, as was most probable, it had crossed the -river it would be impossible to recover ivory from the -obstreperous chiefs in the Congo Free State. Here, as -during the whole of our journey from Tanganyika, the -mosquitoes were appalling; colossal of stature, they -arrived in myriads at sunset, and continued their -plaintive wail till the cool hour before dawn.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>On the morrow we left the Rusisi once more, and -passed to the east of many striking conical hills along -the flat plain of the Kasilo (which obviously in remote -ages was the course of the outlet of Lake Kivu), for a -distance of four miles, crossing several small -tributaries of the Kasilo on our way. We turned west, and -climbing the high plateau through which the Rusisi has -now forced its way, camped on a high ridge 2,000 -ft. above the plain. There were numerous villages and -large herds of cattle, which at night are enclosed in pens -strongly stockaded. Here we had entered the terrible -Ruanda country, and the paramount chief of the -district, Ngenzi, the most powerful satrap of the King of -Ruanda, came and paid his respects. From his pleasant -manner we little guessed what a source of trouble he was -to prove in the near future. Small boys followed us on -the march with huge wooden utensils filled with fresh -milk, and our welcome was most cordial. Forests of -bananas stretched far as the eye could reach to the -north, east, and west, and vast fields of peas and beans -bore witness to the fertility and prosperity of the -country.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>To the south lay the mighty valley of the Rusisi, -stretching away between its enclosing walls of hills, till, -in the far distance, gleamed the waters of Tanganyika.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Bidding a last farewell to those historic waters, we -plunged into the wild turmoil of hills which surround -Kivu, and after a six hours' tramp, accompanied on the -way by Ngenzi and his hundred followers (not -forgetting the inevitable cup-bearer with his gourd of -pombe and the regal sucking-straw), climbed on to a -ridge from which we saw the waters of Kivu lying at -our feet.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The mighty sheet of water, dotted with a hundred -isles and hemmed in by a thousand imposing hills, was -of surpassing beauty; the only one of the vast lakes of -Central Africa which had not been first gazed upon by -British eyes.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst" id="lake-kivu"><span class="bold large">CHAPTER X.</span></p> -<p class="center pnext"><span class="bold medium">LAKE KIVU.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>An abrupt descent led us through many straggling -villages and endless banana plantations to the -German Soudanese post on the extreme south-west -point of the lake.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>We camped on a small rise opposite the Government -stockade and overlooking the lake; the outlet is a long, -thin arm, narrowing to where the Rusisi tumbles over -the first cascades, and starts on its broken course through -the hills to the point whence it finally issues on its -long, long journey by Tanganyika to the sea. The -body of water leaving the lake is small, but, with the -numerous tributaries from east and west, soon swells -to a considerable size; and forty miles from Tanganyika -it is of about the same volume as the Thames at -Richmond.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The south-western extremity of Kivu is really a small -lake in itself, separated as it is from the main body of the -lake by a narrow neck, which is again almost blocked -by a network of islands.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>On all sides long straggling promontories jut out into -the water, cutting the coast-line into a multitude of -lochs and bays.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>They are the spurs of the wild groups of hills which -enclose Kivu on the east, south, and west sides, and -which, ever increasing in height as they recede from the -lake-shore, eventually culminate in the mighty peaks -which crown the enclosing walls of this vast Rift Valley, -in which Tanganyika, Kivu, the Albert Edward, and -the Albert Lakes are but residuary pools.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Miles and miles of banana plantations clothe the -lower hills, and vast fields of peas give a touch of green -to the purples, reds, and yellows of the luxuriant -pastures. There are no trees in all the Kivu region nearer -than the summits of the distant peaks and the slopes of -the volcanoes, with the exception of a very occasional -solitary tree on the extreme summit of some of the -conspicuous hills. These latter are left untouched, despite -the value of wood, and would appear to be held in -reverential awe; they form conspicuous landmarks, -which may be the primary cause of the superstitions -that attach to them. Their existence points to the -country having been at one time more or less wooded; -and the trees which served no essential purpose have -fallen before the requirements of the enormous -population.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>This same enormous population, and the pervading -air of prosperity, are a striking indication of the -possibilities of native races left to work out their own -destiny.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The far-famed unity and power of the Ruanda people -have deterred the Arabs from making slave-raids into -their country, and with the exception of one or two -Belgian looting expeditions, which fortunately met with -no success, they have been left in peace.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>All the southern and eastern coast-line drops abruptly -into the lake, and there is no beach or marshland such -as are found on the other lakes of Central Africa, but -the feeding-streams, at their junction with the lake, -become papyrus swamps.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>There were only ten soldiers in the fort, and they -rolled in the lap of luxury, calmly relieving the -neighbouring population of what they (the soldiers) -considered superfluities, such as goats, sheep, fowls, etc. -This is the invariable result of placing natives in a -post of responsibility without constant supervision.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>As to their duties, they had none; and it was patent -that the sole </span><em class="italics">raison d'être</em><span> of these posts was to be able -on the day of reckoning to show a definite asset, a -claim to effective occupation--in fine, a fulfilment of -the duties imposed upon European powers by the Berlin -Conference.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The Soudanese officer in charge was most friendly, -and the neighbouring chiefs arrived in long procession -and paid their respects. They presented us with several -goats and sheep, and when we expressed the wish to -purchase more, they brought them along in a ceaseless -stream. Subsequently we discovered that the affable -Soudanese officer and his brother ruffians, hearing of -our approach, had annexed several herds from some -villages two days north; these were the beasts that -arrived in such bewildering profusion. They had -insisted on the owners accepting a handful of beads, -thereby establishing a claim to legitimate purchase, and -compelled the local natives to bring the beasts in to -us as their own property.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>There are numerous small villages in the vicinity of -the post, and the people, who live in the most wretched -huts, thrown up like hayricks, appear to have been -very thoroughly bled by their undesirable neighbours.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>An extraordinary feature of Kivu, and the rivers and -small lakes of the Kivu system, is the absence of -hippopotami and crocodiles. As they swarm in Tanganyika -and the Rusisi to the south, and in the Rutchuru -and Albert Edward Lake to the north, this is very -remarkable. Probably the abrupt nature of the shore, -the depth of water, and the absence of sandbanks and -shelving beaches may account for it. The only possible -landing-and-resting-places would be the papyrus swamps -that I have mentioned as existing at the mouths of the -streams; and the water, hurrying down from high -altitudes, and shaded from the sun by the papyrus, is -here intensely cold, and therefore unsuited to their -requirements.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The natives brought us quantities of fish similar in -appearance to bream, and of most delicate flavour. -The same fish is common in Tanganyika and the Albert -Edward. This was the only species that I saw in Kivu, -and the natives told me that there are no large fish, -such as are found in the other lakes. A conspicuous -feature is the extraordinary number of large otters, -which are to be seen in scores swimming and diving in -every bay. Lake Ngami in South Africa is also -remarkable for the number of otters, the skins of which -are obtainable in quantities from the natives.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>There are many butterflies on the rich pasture-land, -the most common kind being almost identical with our -</span><em class="italics">Coleas edusa</em><span>.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>After a day's rest we marched to Ishangi, the base of -Dr. Kandt, who is making an exhaustive study of all -the "district." He was most kind, and gave us much -useful information and advice.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>His work is being done with characteristic German -thoroughness. In a recent surveying expedition, in the -course of which he travelled 560 miles, he found his -error on rounding up the trip amounted to less than a -quarter of a mile. This astounding result was obtained -by counting every step, and taking three bearings a -minute. It is this amazing attention to detail which -makes the Teuton so formidable a competitor. Amongst -many most interesting specimens, he had the finest pair -of tusks that it has ever been my fortune to see. -Unfortunately we had no scales, and it was impossible to -judge of their weight. The elephant had been shot -in Mushari, the country where I afterwards narrowly -escaped being eaten. Hearing from the natives that -the beast was in a small gully close to camp, Dr. Kandt -sallied forth with four soldiers; only the back of the -elephant was visible over the scrub, and they fired a -volley at four hundred yards. One lucky shot hit the -knee and disabled the beast, when the gallant doctor -established a valid claim to having killed an elephant, -as he naïvely remarked, by finishing it off. Close to -Ishangi is Lubengera, the site of a former Congo Free -State station, where a few black troops had been posted -to raid cattle from the rich cattle districts of -Lubengera and Bugoie.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The mean of my aneroid readings on the lake level -was 5,000 ft., and the height of the hills contiguous -with the lake ranged between 5,500 and 6,000 ft.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>At Ishangi we purchased some spears, amongst others -an interesting specimen from Bunyabungu, on the west -side of the lake. It was simply a long, coarse spike, and -the natives said that the people of Bunyabungu could -not manage the final stage of beating it out into a blade. -Dr. Kandt warned us about the thieving propensities -and light-fingered ability of the Wa Ruanda, and told -us how he had suffered from their depredations. One -thief had entered his closed tent under the nose of the -sentry, and abstracted a pair of trousers from under -the pillow on which the doctor was lying. Another had -removed the fly of his headman's tent. Consequently, -the following night we took the precaution of carefully -closing our tents, and of placing all the loads in the -third tent, with men sleeping at each end. Notwithstanding, -the following morning a tin box weighing 60 -lbs. had been taken from my tent, and had completely -vanished, while two canvas kit-bags had been abstracted, -cut open, and the desirable contents removed. Thus, -at one fell swoop, we lost our sextant, artificial -horizon, boiling-point thermometers, a bag of one hundred -sovereigns, all my trousers, stockings, and socks, and -many valuable papers, books, and photographs. On -this discovery we summoned the chief, our old friend -Ngenzi, who had been hanging on our flanks for about -forty miles. He arrived with a supercilious smile and -a host of attendants. Having explained the situation, -I asked him what he intended to do. "There are many -bad men in my country of whom I know nothing," he -answered, and again that evil smile flitted over his -countenance. It was obvious that bluffing was to be -the order of the day; so, taking the same line, we -clapped him into the guard-tent, stopped his drinks -and smokes, put a guard with fixed bayonets over him, -and delivered an ultimatum to the effect that, unless the -stolen goods were restored intact by midday, we should -take further steps. Of course he protested absolute -ignorance, but the sudden and resolute nature of our -proceedings took him unawares, and for once the guile -of the native failed him. Instead of protesting to a -finish, which would have left us powerless to act, he -produced by his men a few of the articles that seemed -most important to him, such as caps and native shirts. -This proved his complicity, and at twelve noon we -decided to act. Sharp opened a case of Snider -cartridges, issued rounds to the ten men who carried guns, -and prepared the camp for defence; while I took my -revolver and an old French cutlass purchased in -Cornhill, and with my two Watonga carrying my rifles, -climbed the hill on which the chief village was situated. -Hundreds of natives with spears turned out and showed -signs of an intention to resist me.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>I harangued them, explained what had happened, and -told them that my quarrel was with Ngenzi, and with -Ngenzi only; that he had allowed thieves to come and -steal the goods of strangers in his country, strangers who -had come to see their country, to pass through it on a -long journey to far lands, and who had come in peace -paying for what they (the natives) brought, receiving -and giving presents. I then told them that I was -going to take all Ngenzi's cattle, drive it in to the German -post, and let the Germans, their overlords, decide -between us. I warned them that any man coming to -the camp would be shot, but that they might bring -food as usual for sale. Eventually, without firing a -shot, I collected and drove in to the camp one hundred -and ninety head of cattle.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>They made a few tentative rushes at me, but were -repulsed by the simple expedient of waving the cutlass -in the air. Such were the terrible Ruanda people, whose -reputation has spread far and wide, and whose country -has been left alone for fear of their military organization. -At least five thousand men sat on the hill-tops and -watched three men with a revolver, cutlass, and two -rifles drive off one hundred and ninety head of cattle; -and I am inclined to think that most Central African -warfare could be settled as easily. Had I had despatches -to write I might have acted differently.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The Germans, overestimating the power of the Ruanda -kingdom, had weakened the white man's prestige by -subsidizing Ngenzi with extravagant gifts of cloth; and he -imagined that he could bleed any one who came into his -country.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>I have always utterly refused to pay "hongo"[#] to -any native, and never give presents until I have -received one. Then, if the present is a liberal one, I -give a yet more liberal present; but if the present is -niggardly, I give the exact market value of the goods -received, unless, of course, the niggardliness is due to -poverty.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="noindent pfirst"><span class="small">[#] Tax on people passing through chief's territory.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>We placed a strong guard over the cattle, and removed -our camp from the undesirable vicinity of the villages -to a round, flat-topped hill half a mile to the south. At -one end we pitched our three tents and arranged the boys' -tents to complete the circle. Inside we fixed a long rope -plaited from banana fibre, and kept in position by spears. -Inside this circle we drove all the cattle, and we placed -pickets round the side of the hill to guard against -surprise or an attempt to stampede the herd. The moon -rose about midnight, and during the hours of darkness -Sharp and I took it in turns to go the rounds. The -noise was appalling, as some of the cows had lost their -calves; and one or two attempts were made to break -through, but we succeeded in quieting them before the -panic became general. Thanks to our precautions, the -night passed without incident, and in the morning Sharp -drove the whole herd over to Ishangi and gave them into -the charge of the Soudanese, whom we had summoned -from the post at the tail of Kivu.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Of course, immensely exaggerated accounts of our -proceedings spread throughout the land, and the chief near -Dr. Kandt went to him and asked him whether he had -better fly from the country. He was promptly reassured, -and the doctor kindly came over to see if he could be of -any assistance, while the Soudanese officer sent his men -to scour the outlying villages to see if they could find -any of our property, but without avail.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Fortunately the natives did not attack Sharp on the -road, and with the exception of some difficulty in -crossing bogs, he arrived without mishap.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>We sent in an exhaustive report to Lieut. von Gravert, -and released Ngenzi with a caution. He promptly made -up for lost time in the way of tobacco and pombe, and -was most respectful. That sinister smile has for ever -faded from his dusky features, and I am sure the lesson -has been of inestimable benefit to him.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>For many days to come it was curious to see the -military appearance of our Manyema: no one stirred from -the camp without two spears, a sword-knife, and, if -possible, a gun with fixed bayonet.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The smaller fry were delighted at the humiliation of -the mighty Mtusi, and many came in to do obeisance -and thank us for our action.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Society in Ruanda is divided into two castes, the -Watusi and the Wahutu.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The Watusi, who are practically identical with the -Wahuma, are the descendants of a great wave of Galla -invasion that reached even to Tanganyika. They still -retain their pastoral instincts, and refuse to do any work -other than the tending of cattle; and so great is their -affection for their beasts, that rather than sever -company they will become slaves, and do the menial work -of their beloved cattle for the benefit of their conquerors. -This is all the more remarkable when one takes into -consideration their inherent pride of race and contempt -for other peoples, even for the white man. They are -most jealous of their descent, and no Mtusi woman ever -marries any one but a Mtusi. A Mtusi man will take -another woman as a working wife, but his true wife is -invariably of his own stock, and her children alone can -succeed to his position.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The half-castes, and individuals with any trace of -Mtusi blood, form a medium between the full-blooded -Watusi and the aborigines, whom they call Wahutu, but -associate only with the upper class, or are the paramount -chiefs of insignificant districts. Many signs of superior -civilization, observable in the peoples with whom the -Watusi have come into contact, are traceable to this -Galla influence.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The hills are terraced, thus increasing the area of -cultivation, and obviating the denudation of the fertile slopes -by torrential rains. In many places irrigation is carried -out on a sufficiently extensive scale, and the swamps are -drained by ditches. Artificial reservoirs are built with -side troughs for watering cattle. The fields are in many -instances fenced in by planted hedges of euphorbia and -thorn, and similar fences are planted along the narrow -parts of the main cattle tracks, to prevent the beasts -from straying or trampling down the cultivation.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>There is also an exceptional diversity of plants -cultivated, such as hungry rice, maize, red and white millet, -several kinds of beans, peas, bananas, and the edible -arum. Some of the higher-growing beans are even -trained on sticks planted for the purpose. Pumpkins -and sweet potatoes are also common; and the Watusi -own and tend enormous herds of cattle, goats, and sheep. -Owing to the magnificent pasturage, the milk is of -excellent quality, and they make large quantities of butter. -They are exceedingly clever with their beasts, and have -many calls which the cattle understand. At milking-time -they light smoke-fires to keep the flies from -irritating the beasts.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>All the dairy utensils are of wood, and are kept -scrupulously clean; but they have an unpleasant method of -repairing cracked jars by filling up the crevices with -cow-dung, and of using the urine as the cleansing -medium.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>They are tall, slightly-built men, of graceful, -nonchalant carriage, and their features are delicate and -refined. I noticed many faces that, bleached and set -in a white collar, would have been conspicuous for -character in a London drawing-room. The legal type was -especially pronounced.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Centuries of undisputed sway have left their mark -in the </span><em class="italics">blasé</em><span>, supercilious manner of the majority; and -in many ways they are a remarkable and far from -unattractive people.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The Wahutu are their absolute antithesis. They are -the aborigines of the country, and any pristine originality -or character has been effectually stamped out of -them. Hewers of wood and drawers of water, they do -all the hard work, and unquestioning, in abject servility, -give up the proceeds on demand. Their numerical -proportion to the Watusi must be at least a hundred to one, -yet they defer to them without protest; and in spite of -the obvious hatred in which they hold their overlords, -there seems to be no friction.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Formerly there was a far-reaching and effective feudal -system, which constituted the proverbial strength of the -kingdom of Ruanda.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The king was supreme, and the sole owner of all the -cattle in the country; the large provinces were -administered by prominent Watusi, usually blood-relations of -his Majesty, whose power locally was absolute, but who -were directly responsible to him for the acts of the -subordinate chiefs and for the loss of cattle. Each -subordinate, again, had the use of a portion of the cattle, for -which he was directly responsible to the satrap of the -district. The king's title is "Kigeri;" "Ntwala" is -the title of the satraps; and the term "Sultani" is -usually applied to the smaller chiefs. The old Kigeri died, -and the rule passed to his son Musinga, who appears to -have been a mere child.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>There is a native superstition against the Kigeri being -seen by strangers, and consequently a substitute, an -individual known to the natives as Pamba Rugamba, has -been presented to the Germans who have visited the -Residence. The child appears also to have died, and -the power now is divided between Kisunga and Gwamu -or Mwami. Mwami was the name told to me by many -natives, but it appears to be merely a title, as other -natives addressed me as "Mwami." These two men -were described as the sons of the old Kigeri, possibly -by another wife than the mother of Musinga; but son -is such an elastic term with natives that they may have -been nephews. This division has materially weakened -the strength of the Ruanda kingdom.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>In Africa almost every kingdom is divided against itself, -as well as against every other, so that unity is indeed -strength. And it was this unity which constituted the -power of Ruanda and of the Zulus, just as at the present -day it constitutes the power of the mighty Dinka and -Shilluk tribes of the Nile.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>While Sharp was away I purchased several curios from -the natives, and amongst others a most curious bracelet -that I was informed came from the Nyema district of -the Congo. It consisted of a semi-tubular circle of iron, -the hollow being filled up with a crude ivory mosaic -held in place by rubber.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The Germans, who have a favourable opinion of the -possibilities of the Ruanda country, are talking of sending -emigrants there. The soil is very rich, but the country -is so inaccessible that I fail to see how they could be -self-supporting--a desirable condition for emigrants--or -how they could cultivate anything for export that would -bear the cost of transport.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Amongst the natives who brought produce for sale -were two pigmies; they were most curious little fellows, -and appeared to be immensely powerful. I fancy they -were not quite pure-bred dwarfs, or else they had been -enslaved when young, as they had none of the shyness -so characteristic of this singular little people, and -appeared to be living with the local natives.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>To the south-east the enclosing line of hills culminates -in four large peaks of 8,000 to 9,000 ft. All four are -conspicuous landmarks for many miles.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>A favourite device of the Manyema carriers, when in -a country of thieves, is to conceal a load of cloth during -the night; in the morning they arrive in great distress, -and say that a load has been stolen; nothing can be -done; the unsuspecting traveller abuses the natives, the -land, and other things, and the wily Manyema annexes -the lost load on his return home. To obviate this, we -informed them that every man in future would be held -responsible for his own load, and that he would have to -make good, out of his pay, any loss or damage. This was -doubly necessary, as Swahilis and Manyema generally -contrive to find a boy or starveling who will carry their -load for a consideration. Apropos of this point, I find -the following in my diary: "Talk about Charles Kingsley's -description of sweating as a result of civilization! -Here we have porters hiring natives who hire others to -the fourth degree, each walking along like a gentleman -and pocketing his proportion. There is nothing new in -this world."</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The difficulty of preventing our Manyema ruffians -from swindling the natives was almost insuperable. -After the Ngenzi fracas, I discovered that they were -making capital out of our action to extort things from -the natives; so I insisted that for a time every -transaction should be performed before me. If a carrier -wished to buy a bunch of bananas from a native, he -brought the native with the bananas to my tent, and -they bargained, and the price was paid in my presence.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>One of the blackest of our villains promptly sent his -small boy out into a neighbouring plantation, whence he -issued in the scanty garb of a local native with a bunch -of bananas. The villain, the boy, and the bananas -appeared before me, and they solemnly performed the -bargaining and payment. But I had been waiting for -that villain, and without appearing to do so, watched -the issue. They all repaired to their tent, and the boy -resumed his garments, when they fell to on what they -fondly believed was a cheap feed--a belief which a -ceaseless succession of fatigue-duties soon dispelled.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Three fiords, several miles in length, necessitated a -wide detour. The scenery was superb: a lacework of -bays, lochs, and inlets with endless choppy waves of hills -sweeping away to the great purple surf of the distant -ranges; islets galore, and the vast rugged mass of the -island of Kwijwi as a background.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>For several days we had much trouble in allaying the -fears of the natives; terrible accounts had preceded us, -and the entire population fled to the hills on our -approach. The fact of our carriers being Manyema, a name -of terror throughout Central Africa, was not reassuring -to the poor creatures, whose only knowledge of -Manyema had been gathered from the Congo Free State -soldiers, who for a time had been posted on Kivu, and -from reports of the atrocities committed by the revolted -troops during the past five years. Accounts also of the -cannibals who were battering at the gates of Bugoie -must have reached them from their northern kinsfolk. -Black masses of natives in a silvery sea of glinting -spearheads watched us from every hill-top. Fortunately we -had several days' food for our men, and when the natives -saw that we passed through without touching even a -bunch of bananas, they were reassured, and a few were -eventually induced to approach and talk. We caught -two of our men stealing, and inflicted condign punishment -before a small body of natives who were in camp, -explaining the circumstances, and telling them, in case of -a repetition of the offence, to come and lay a complaint. -But it would be easier to stop a monkey from scratching -than a Manyema from stealing; and as the state of -unrest of the native population was a grave danger, and -petty thefts would probably have precipitated an attack, -which we were ill prepared to repulse, we confined all -our boys to camp, made water-carrying for the whole -camp a fatigue-duty, and established a market where -the natives might sell their produce under our personal -supervision. I explained the expediency of our action, -and told them that there were some such abandoned -ruffians amongst them that they must all suffer for the -misdeeds of the miscreants. They appeared satisfied, -but as we were sitting down to lunch, I noticed an -unusual stir in the lines. On going out I found that they -were all packing up their belongings and preparing to -depart; about thirty were already moving off. It was -obviously an attempt to bluff us, as the experience of -the boys who ran away at Tanganyika had taught them -that it would be impossible to avoid detection even if -they succeeded in passing through Ngenzi's country, -which they knew would be impossible in view of the then -state of the natives. It was a critical moment. If the -camp broke up, the entire expedition would be inevitably -massacred by the Ruanda. I took my rifle and dashed -off in pursuit, accompanied by my two Watonga; while -Sharp, revolver in one hand and rifle in the other, -threatened to shoot the first man who moved. Rushing over -a rise, I saw the ringleader, one of our worst villains, and -the originator of the idea, leading about two hundred -yards away; I fired at him, just as he turned the corner -of the hill, fully intending to drop him. The bullet -removed his fez. Down he dropped into the grass, and the -whole thirty did likewise. After a few shots in the air, -to keep up their anxiety, I sent a headman out to order -them back to camp, saying that the affair was now ended, -and that I should not know who had left camp. As I -expected, every one was present at roll-call, half an -hour after dark. The position was saved. In the course -of a long harangue, I informed them again of the absolute -necessity of confining them to camp till the natives -should be reassured; explained that I had spared the -ringleader this time, and had removed his hat to show -him with what ease I could have killed him had I wished -to do so (a remark that my gun-bearer, Makanjira, -assured them was true); said that it was for their benefit -that we desired friendly relations with the population; -we had no desire to see a lot of dirty natives, we wished -nothing from them; had we not, as they well knew, -food for many weeks in boxes? But if the natives -refused to come, where would they be able to buy goats, -fowls, tobacco, and all the things that rejoiced the -stomachs of men?</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The bluff was outbluffed, and with ringing cheers the -men returned to their fires to jabber and howl with -laughter far into the night. From discontent to merry -laughter is but a momentary transition with the African.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>From the ridge on which we were encamped we looked -down upon a perfect spot, a long arm of the lake winding -in between striking hills, terminating in a small bay. -Banana palms with the tiny villages nestling in their -midst fringed the shore. Weird little islands covered -with ibis and demoiselle crane were dotted about. A -wall of papyrus showed where the tumbling stream that -danced down the encircling hills entered the lake, and -the glorious colouring and strong shadows brought out -the picture into striking relief. Sharp said it reminded -him of Japan; there was an air of </span><em class="italics">dolce far niente</em><span> heavy -with the lush glamour of the tropics that carried me back -to the South Seas.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The following day we succeeded, after much shouting, -in inducing a half-bred Mtusi to come to us. We gave -him a present, and told him to go and explain that we -wanted to buy provisions; and that if the natives would -not come we should be compelled, much against our will, -to take what was necessary. He departed, promising to -do so, but nobody appeared. After waiting several hours, -I took ten men out with me, and cut sufficient bananas -for the men; and though I tried for two days to induce -the chief to come for payment, he never appeared. This -was the sole occasion during the whole of my long trip -in Africa when I had to commandeer anything from the -natives. I quite agree with Colonel Lugard when he says -that it is unnecessary. This was the last time that we -had any difficulty with the natives. Seeing that we -refrained from looting their fields, they plucked up -courage, and came in the same numbers as when we first -entered the country. The hordes of warriors whom we -had seen sitting on the tops of the hills in the distance -came and mingled freely with our men, and a brisk trade -started in the numerous products of the country. From -many of our camps the scenery was most beautiful; as -we rounded the south-eastern corner of the lake, the -whole expanse of water opened out before us. The track -we followed often led over hills 1,500 ft. above the lake; -and from many positions we could look down on the vast -oily expanse of water, deep set in its basin of innumerable -hills, dotted with a thousand islets, stretching far -away till it was lost in the shimmering haze of the -northern shore, where, crisp and clear, towered the mighty -mass of Mount Götzen, whose jet of smoke alone broke -the steel-blue dome of sky.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Close to this part are the sources of the Nyavolongo, -which are the real sources of the Victoria Nile. At the -actual angle of the lake there is an extensive valley, which -is the real frontier of Ngenzi's district, Mukinyaga. Every -available inch of this extensive fertile valley is covered -with luxuriant crops of beans, peas, sweet potatoes, and -millet. To the east, up this valley, lies the road to the -old Kigeri's residence, which is about five days' march -from the lake.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Here there is a district which is divided up amongst -many chiefs, and which seems to have no representative -name. At the mouth of the stream that flows down this -valley, the lake shores, if possible, are still more broken -than elsewhere. The hills which cover the country -around Kivu appear to have been sprinkled out of a -pepper-pot, they are in the main disconnected, and the -country seems almost to have boiled. The hollows are -in places filled with papyrus swamps, many of which -have drained dry, and now form level lawns a few feet -above the lake.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The population round this valley is enormous. The -northern wall of the valley rises very abruptly, and the -path led along precipitous passes. The scenery is most -striking. From the top of this plateau we caught our -first glimpse of the volcanoes, the sharp outline of the -four main peaks standing out clear and crisp above the -misty haze that surrounds their base.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>One day's march brought us to the district of -Lubengera, which is remarkable for the number of Watusi. -There seems to be no prominent chief among them. The -banana plantations are of amazing extent, and literally -clothe many of the hills from top to bottom. In this -district especially we remarked the extreme neatness of -the fields and the scattered nature of the villages. The -Ruanda do not live together in great numbers, but are -scattered far and wide over the country; their villages -would perhaps be more aptly described as farms.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>It is remarkable that throughout the whole of this -country, as in the valley of the Rusisi, there were no -antelope, and until we arrived near the wooded slopes of -the volcanoes, where a few of the natives had bushbuck -skins, we never saw any traces of their having been obtained.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>All the natives of Ruanda are great smokers; they -use small, neatly-made, and sometimes grotesquely-carved, -black clay pipes. At this stage we were much -troubled by complaints from our boys of petty thefts. -On going thoroughly into the question, I found that -besides the numerous slave boys whom our Manyema -carriers had brought up from Ujiji, they had picked up -many more on the road. Some of these had recently -bolted, taking everything upon which they could lay -their hands. As it was desirable to stop this, we had all -the boys' boys brought up, and registered them. All -those who could not show that they had come either -from Ujiji or Usambara were given twenty-four hours' -notice to quit. I also forbade our carriers to hire local -natives to carry their loads, and thus rendered our -caravan on the march much more compact, and thereby less -open to attack.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>On the far coast of the lake two striking hills were -plainly visible; these are evidently placed on the two -promontories which I have suggested as existing in my -map. From the numerous observations which I took, I -came to the conclusion that the islands to the north of -Kwijwi have either risen since Count Götzen's visit, or -else that he underestimated their size; which seems -scarcely possible, as he actually landed on one or two -of them.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>As we were approaching the north end of the lake, -several attempts were made to raid the camp at night, -and at one place in particular the thieves were very -resolute, and succeeded in stealing many small things -from the boys. The sentry came and woke me up -during the night, and told me that persistent attempts -were being made to enter the camp; so I went out, and -taking up my position outside the lines, under the cover -of a small bush, I succeeded in capturing one of the -thieves by collaring him low. This form of attack was -unexpected, and though he was greased he failed to -escape. The following morning he was handed over to -the chief, and suffered the usual penalty of convicted -thieves, his head being cut off and placed on the path, -as a warning to others. This fortunate capture definitely -settled the thieving question.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>After crossing the Kashale, we entered the populous -and fertile district of Bugoie. The chief is variously -called Gwamu or Mwami, and is now, as I have before -stated, one of the joint kings of Ruanda. All the way -up this coast the scenery is exquisite; nowhere, except -in the sounds of New Zealand, have I ever seen -anything so fine, and the nearer we approached to the -mighty volcanoes, the more dazzlingly beautiful and -the more imposing it became.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>At one of our camps we were besieged by an army -of biting and poisonous ants, and I was just turning -in when they assaulted my tent. Countless thousands -swarmed all over my blankets and into my boxes and -my clothes, and over every available inch both of my -person and belongings. Calling my boys to my rescue, -we endeavoured to save at least a blanket, and fled -precipitately. But so thick were they that it was -impossible to escape them. However, eventually the main -body had moved on to other people's quarters, and I -succeeded in rescuing my camp-bed, which I fixed up -in another tent with all four legs in basins of water; -by this means I managed to pass the night without -more than three or four hundred around me. Sharp, -who at first had looked upon it as a great joke, became -the main object of their attentions during the small -hours of the morning.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Here the people became very friendly again, and one -chief provided us with two guides and two cattle-men, -who undertook to go with us as far as the northern -slopes of the volcanoes. One of these guides and one -of the cattle-men bolted the following day with a few -trifles, but the other two stuck to us well, and found -our company so agreeable that they even followed me -right through to the Nile, where they met a sad fate.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The Ruanda people are even more superstitious than -most Central African natives. They wear medicine -(native name </span><em class="italics">dawa</em><span>) to guard them against every -conceivable ill, such as pains in the stomach, leopards, -death, etc., etc. It is curious that the natives, like the -lower animals, seem to be unable to grasp the fact that -they will die; such a thing as a natural death they -cannot understand, and always attribute the event to -some form of violence, which, if not obvious, they -describe as the effect of the "evil eye." The tip of a -cow's horn, inlaid with ivory, is considered particularly -efficacious against a pain in the side; and if a man -wears two small leather bottles round his neck, he can -never die. A large red bean is a sure preventive against -leopards. One native wore an extraordinary bracelet; -it was made of wood, and beautifully worked with various -metals; the total weight must have been at least two -pounds. He promised to come into camp and sell it to -me; but, having promised, naturally did not come. Of -all the liars in Africa, I believe the people of Ruanda -are by far the most thorough. I have pointed to a -mountain 13,000 ft. high, at a distance of three miles, -and asked my native guide whether there was a -mountain there: he would say "No!" On the march, if -I asked whether there was water near, and he told me -"yes," I knew that it would take at least six hours to -find the next stream, and therefore camped where I -was; if, however, he said that there was no water, one -could be perfectly certain of finding several streams -within the course of the next ten minutes. Even amongst -themselves they appear to talk in the same way, and -many of the instances, such as I have mentioned, are -so extraordinary that I cannot help thinking that it is -a custom. I believe at one place on the coast there is -a form of Swahili which is spoken backwards, or rather -the end of the word is put first. It seems to me to be -just conceivable that the same train of reasoning may -affect the habits of speech of the Wa Ruanda.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The natives assured me that there were many elephant -on the north side of the volcanoes and also to the west, -in the countries of Mushari and Gishari; for this reason -I was sorely tempted to doubt their existence; -however, from Dr. Kandt's remarks we thought it would be -worth while, later on, to go and see.</span></p> -<div class="align-center auto-scaled figure margin" style="width: 99%" id="figure-76"> -<span id="on-the-track-of-the-cannibals"></span><img class="align-center block" style="display: block; width: 100%" alt="On the Track of the Cannibals." src="images/img-160.jpg" /> -<div class="caption centerleft figure-caption margin"> -<span class="italics">On the Track of the Cannibals.</span></div> -</div> -<p class="pnext"><span>We had a lot of trouble with our cattle-folk. The -head cattle-man was a most persistent, pertinacious -scoundrel, and as soon as he was detected in one villainy -he invariably tried another; the result being that, -although we had ten cows, there was barely enough milk -for two people, and butter was quite out of the question. -So we determined to take the thing in hand, and make -a big effort to find out where the leakage was. As we -had expected, under our personal supervision, there was -a quantity of milk, enough for us both, and plenty with -which we could make butter.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The method of making butter, a task which was -entrusted to the headman's wife, is as follows: The woman -squatted down on the ground, and taking an enormous -flat gourd, containing milk which had been kept for -three days, she proceeded to rock it to and fro, bringing -it up short against her thigh. She assured us that, for -the purpose of obtaining butter, it was absolutely -necessary to insert two small pieces of wood as medicine. -Judging from the quantity of butter, I doubted its -efficacy; and suspecting that there was some new -villainy in hand, as we obtained about a quarter of an -ounce of butter from a bucket full of milk, we waited till -the process was complete, and then told her to bring the -gourd to us. All my doubts as to the efficacy of the -two bits of wood were removed when I discovered that -they were just large enough to jam in the neck of the -gourd, and that, perched on the top of them, was a pound -and a half of butter. She was quite unabashed at the -discovery, and evidently mentally prayed that she would -have better luck next time, which I have no doubt she -did, although not in that particular method.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>On our last march up the side of the lake the cattle -were, owing to the steep nature of the road, left a long -way behind; a band of natives attacked them, but the -cattle-guard, firing a few rounds, which did more harm -to themselves than to anybody else, repulsed the attack. -Hearing about it, I sent Makanjira, my gun-bearer, -back, and with his help they brought them all in without -mishap.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>At the north-east corner of the lake there is an abrupt -descent, and to the north of the lake the country is flat, -gently sloping to the base of the large, active volcano.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst" id="the-volcanoes"><span class="bold large">CHAPTER XI.</span></p> -<p class="center pnext"><span class="bold medium">THE VOLCANOES.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>At the base of the descent there is a small bay, the -resort of many fishermen, and beyond, two small -isolated peaks, on the slope of one of which we camped. -In the evening I climbed to the top of the one nearest -to the lake to take observations of all the promontories -down the east coast.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>I think the view is the finest I have ever seen. Far to -the south stretched the mighty expanse of water; dark -promontories of every shape and size jutted far into the -lake; Kwijwi stood out in bold outline; and the mighty -wall of mountains on the west was dimly visible on the -far horizon. Below me stretched a great plain, the -eastern part densely covered with fields of millet and -banana plantations, dotted with a thousand huts. In -all the fields hundreds of women were working, and -small herds of cattle and goats were slowly wending their -way to the lake. To the west, the plain was covered -with young forest. To the north towered the terrific -mass of Mount Götzen, vomiting forth a great volume -of black smoke. The old volcanoes towered aloft above -the clouds, which swirled in constant eddies about their -base. Entranced with the view, I waited till the sun -declined and dropped like a molten ball behind the bold -outline of the hills; then the moon came up, bathing -the waters of the lake in silvery light.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The natives visited our camp in hundreds, and brought -numerous presents of goats and sheep, and an unlimited -quantity of supplies for sale. We told them that we -wanted to buy eggs--a request that always astonishes -the natives, who are not used to the ways of white men, -as they themselves never eat them. One old gentleman -rushed away, and shortly returned, bringing a dirty -basket with a frowsy old hen and about fifteen small -chickens emerging from the eggs, and was surprised -because we said they were of no use to us. We tried to -explain that we preferred them fresh, and he evidently -thought that we were making a fool of him.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Here we were informed that in the pass between the -volcanoes there was no water, and that we should have -to purchase what we required at great price from the -natives, who obtain a purple liquid by tapping the stems -of the banana palms.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The large volcanoes, of which there are six, fall -naturally under two heads. The two western ones are still -active; the highest I have described on my map as -Mount Götzen, in honour of Count Götzen, who was the -first to discover Kivu, and who made the ascent of the -peak which I have named after him. Owing to the -impossibility of obtaining representative names to these -mountains, I have suggested names for them. On one -of the mountains on which I camped, I obtained no less -than thirty-six names of the same place. Mount Götzen -is a stupendous mass, and has three craters. The central -crater, described by Count Götzen, is very extensive; the -bottom of the crater is quite flat, and has two cleanly-drilled -vent-holes; the northern and the southern craters -are now extinct. It is covered with the densest -imaginable forest, almost to the summit; and Count Götzen -found it absolutely necessary, during his ascent, to fetch -all water from the lake.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Slightly to the north-west of this peak another volcano, -covering an enormous area, has formed since Count -Götzen's passage through the country. He mentions -considerable activity at the end of the ridge; and two -years before I passed through the country there had -been a terrific eruption, in the course of which this -volcano formed; its crater is several miles in -circumference. I have described it as Mount Sharp, after my -fellow-traveller.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The eastern system is still more imposing. The four -main peaks have long been extinct, and the form of the -highest, which I have described as Mount Eyres, after -Mrs. Eyres of Dumbleton Hall, Evesham, is very striking, -reminding me forcibly of the Matterhorn, as seen -from the Riffelalp. The height of Mount Eyres is over -13,000 ft., and its summit was almost invariably covered -with snow in the morning. A dense, impenetrable forest -runs up to a height of 11,500 ft., above which there is -open woodland. The actual summit, or last 500 ft., is -practically bare. The top has the appearance of slightly -overhanging, and shows some bold rock faces. The next -volcano in the chain I have described as Mount Kandt, -after the eminent scientist who is making such exhaustive -studies of Ruanda and the north-west territories of the -German sphere.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>We insisted upon all our boys buying gourds for water, -in case of there being any difficulty in obtaining it on -the road. The waterless stage to be traversed was a -long one, and we therefore only made a short march, and -camped at the last watering-place, which was about four -miles from the lake. This was the site of Gwamu's -village. Gwamu himself, following the traditions of the -Ruanda kings, retired to the mountains, but left his -headman to receive us with a handsome present of goats -and necessaries.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The population here was enormous, every available -inch of country was cultivated, and this portion of -Bugoie is undoubtedly the most prosperous, the most -densely populated, and the most fertile spot that I -have seen in Africa.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Fifteen miles to the east, the range that encloses the -Rift Valley culminates in a striking peak. It is known -to the natives as Hembe è Bugogo. This peak is at a -pronounced angle in the range; and northwards the -enclosing hills recede towards the east. The volcanoes -themselves are a quite distinct system, having risen out -of the bed of the Rift Valley.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>On the following day we started on our waterless march -with many misgivings. Our route lay along the base -of the hills, then over a small chain of extinct volcanic -craters, then across the flat, swampy plain, which lies to -the east of Mount Götzen. In all directions there are -isolated, extinct craters, still perfect in form, and -invariably terraced and covered with crops of peas and -beans.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>We camped in the vicinity of three large, straggling -villages. The natives were not very friendly at first, -although the headman of Gwamu had accompanied us, -and about tea-time one of our men rushed in to say -that the herds had been attacked and that they had -lost thirty goats and sheep, and that one man had been -wounded with a spear. I hurried out to the scene, but -it was too late to do any good, and I returned, bringing -in the remnants of our flocks.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The path then passed over the summit of the pass -between Mount Götzen and Mount Eyres. I found the -height to be approximately 7,000 feet. Half a mile from -our camp I discovered a small cave open at both ends, -in which there was a pool of water, which the natives -refused to drink; whether from superstition or because -the water is poisonous, I could not say.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>At the base of Mount Eyres there are several small -craters, and on the north side of the base there is a little -rugged patch of country, where the path descends into -abrupt ravines, and passes through a strip of the most -luxuriant tropical forest, on the far side of which the -wonderful pastures, characteristic of this country, -recommence. Here, we were told, was the elephant country.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Gwamu's headman was still with us, and he brought -in many of the surrounding chiefs. At first they were -very friendly and brought us plenty of supplies for sale, -the article of exchange in greatest request being salt. -Judging from their phenomenal mendacity, I can quite -understand their need of it.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Here we purchased several bows made by the dwarfs. -They are quite distinct from any other bow that I have -seen. The arc is in two pieces, an outside sheath of -split cane with another piece of wood let in to the groove; -both are neatly bound together by reed, and the string -is composed of one blade of a very tough reed which -grows in the forest. We also procured some strings of -beads which the natives said had come from the west; -they are very primitive, and appear to have been made -of some kind of shell.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The following morning we went out in search of -elephant.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The forest was full of traps set by the Pigmies. The -ordinary type was a bamboo bent towards the game-path -with a string fastened to the ground, where it was -tied in a running noose; by this means, I am informed, -they catch many pigs and small quadrupeds of the -forest. They also fix spears, weighted with heavy blocks -of wood, in the trees, and the elephant passing underneath -releases the spear by breaking the cord with which -it is attached; but I think their usual method of slaying -elephant is by firing poisoned arrows into them--having -done which, they follow the unfortunate beast for days, -until it drops.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The country was so impenetrable that hunting was a -practical impossibility, so two days later I started with -ten boys to see if I could find an easier hunting-ground. -I passed round to the north of Mount Eyres, and pitched -my camp on an eminence of 9,000 ft., overlooking the -Rutchuru Valley. Here I immediately found fresh -elephant-tracks. A herd of ten had passed towards the -north, and a solitary old bull had gone towards the -forest on the mountain slope. This I elected to follow, -and in an hour and a half I could hear him not far away, -tearing down branches of trees. His spoor was bigger -than any spoor I have ever seen, and the size of the -brute, when I first saw him, filled me with astonishment. -Unfortunately he was not standing broadside on, and it -was impossible for me to go round. From where I -stood, I could see the small glade in which he was -standing, but could only see a portion of his head and the -ridge of his back. I watched him for some time picking -the leaves off a tree; then, having eaten all the leaves -within reach, without apparent effort he seized the trunk -of the tree about 16 ft. from the ground and laid it flat. -The tree had a diameter of more than 2 ft. Fearing -that he might move into the impenetrable jungle that -surrounded us, I took the shot, difficult as it was; he -fell, but instantly recovered himself and dashed away, -getting the second barrel in his flank as he did so. For -several hours I followed him, without getting another -shot, though I found where he had again fallen down -and lost much blood. A few hundred yards further on -I heard him in some very thick bush; my guide, who -was following on the spoor, refused to advance, and I -had perforce to take the lead. The wind was very -shifty, and he suddenly detected our presence, venting -his disapproval in a series of unpleasant grunts. -Suddenly, hearing a great crashing of bushes, I thought -that he was moving away, and hurried forward as fast -as the difficult track would allow, in the hopes of -catching a glimpse of him. The noise was terrific, and it -suddenly dawned upon me that, so far from moving off, -he was coming on. I was powerless to move--a fall -would have been fatal--so waited; but the forest was -so dense that I never saw him till his head was literally -above me, when I fired both barrels of the double .500 -magnum, which I was carrying, in his face. The whole -forest seemed to crumple up, and a second later I found -myself 10 ft. above the ground, well home in a -thorn-bush, while my gun was lying ten yards away in the -opposite direction; and I heard a roar as of thunder -disappearing into the distance. A few seconds later, -the most daring of my boys, Zowanji, came hurrying -along with that sickly green hue which a negro's face -assumes in moments of fear, and with his assistance I -descended from my spiky perch. I was drenched with -blood, which fortunately proved to be not mine, but -that of the elephant; my gun, which I recovered, was -also covered with his blood, even to the inside of the -barrels. The only damage I sustained was a slightly -twisted knee. I cannot say whether the elephant -actually struck me, or whether I was carried there by the -rush of country.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Following on his tracks, I found enormous pools of -blood, and half a mile further on I again heard grunts, -which showed that he had caught my wind. He rushed -about, uttering those strident shrieks that are so terrifying, -but, after his last experience, refused to charge. I spent -an exceedingly nervous five minutes, while he devastated -half an acre of forest. Then he moved on again, -and it was not till two hours later that I caught him up. -He was standing in a dense bamboo thicket, and I fired -the .500 at his head; he fell to the shot, but quickly -recovered and went away. Yet another time I caught -him up, and approached within ten yards, but the thicket -was so dense that I could not see an inch of his body. -I might have turned his flank, but in so doing should -have given him my wind, and I funked it. He shortly -moved on, and after twice falling pulled himself together, -and went through the bamboo forest at an increased -pace. I followed hard, but never saw him again, and -at sunset was compelled to give up the chase.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>We were at an altitude of 9,000 ft. and spent the -night sitting naked round a fire, while the rain beat out -any lingering sentiments for elephant-hunting that had -survived the day's work. The old volcanic soil of these -forests is so porous that above the valley there are no -streams. We had had nothing to eat or drink since -6 a.m., and it was not till 11.30 the following morning -that we found a cattle-station in the forest. Here we -drank a quantity of milk, and eventually arrived in camp -at two in the afternoon. My boys were almost dead with -fatigue, and I myself slept for fifteen hours without -rocking.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>In following elephant through these forests it was -necessary to cut one's way with a native axe on the -path that the elephant had traversed only five minutes -before. At times, for many yards one never touched -the ground, but had perforce to climb along the -tree-trunks, and the dense vegetable growth, constantly -slipping and falling into thorn-bush and nettles, all of which -the elephant would take in his stride; while the bush -was so solid that, after the elephant had brushed it aside, -it flew back to its original position.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>This nettle, which, I believe, is peculiar to these -volcanoes, is the most appalling creation that I have -ever dreamed of. Some were 10 ft. in height, and it -was impossible to brush them aside; they were covered -with myriads of long, almost invisible, spines, which -penetrated khaki, flannel, and everything except leather. -The pain produced by contact with them was nearly -unbearable, but fortunately subsided in about ten -minutes. At times they were so bad that my natives -could no longer move, and I had to beat down a track -before they could pass. Many times they sat down and -howled like babies. Some of the trees that had been -torn down by the elephant were of enormous dimensions, -and I had never before even guessed at the stupendous -power of the African elephant.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>I found that the country here was no easier than -that which I had just left, and therefore marched north -down the long sloping spur that leads into the valley -of the Kako.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The district round the base of Mount Eyres is called -Bwisha. It is ruled by a powerful chief called -Kahanga. His main village was elaborately protected by -a palisade, around which trees and creepers had been -planted to consolidate the structure, and it was -surrounded by many smaller villages. The whole of the -adjacent country was densely planted with banana, and -all the intervening land was covered with fields of peas, -beans, and millet.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>My track led down a small stream that flowed into -the Mungawo, which is the western head-waters of the -Kako, as the southern part of the Rutchuru is called; -it is consequently one of the most distant sources of -the Albert Nile. The territory between the Mungawo -and the Kako is called Shoni; here I made many -inquiries about elephant, and, as usual, was informed that -there were none actually there, but that there were -tremendous quantities elsewhere.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Kahanga was at first rather suspicious, but plucking -up courage at the insignificant proportions of my -caravan, he eventually became very communicative, and -told off some men to guide me round the country.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Leaving this village I marched to the east, along the -base of four extinct volcanoes, to find out the real -truth of the vexed question of Mfumbiro.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Mfumbiro, as a mountain, is unknown to the natives, -but I eventually ascertained that it is merely a native -word which means "The place where there is fire." And -when I reached the country where Mount Mfumbiro -had been supposed by an imaginative treaty-maker -to be, I was informed that "Mfumbiro" was used by -the natives in that part to represent the district of the -active volcanoes.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>In reaching my destination I passed through many -almost impenetrable forests of bamboo, and crossed the -head-waters of the main stream of the Kako. The -natives appeared to be rather disturbed, and suspicious -of my intentions. With such a weak caravan I did -not desire to have any trouble; I therefore hastily -retreated to the base of Mount Eyres once more.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Close to Kahanga's village there is a small pool, -probably a relic of the lake that once filled this Rift -Valley, as there are a few hippopotami therein, and the -hilly nature of the country that surrounds this small -lake renders it improbable that they have any -connection with the outside world.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>From here I made my first attempt to cross the great -lava streams that fill the trough of the valley, with the -intention of inspecting Mushari, which Dr. Kandt had -told me teemed with elephant. Inquiries which I made -confirmed his report, and the natives appeared -particularly anxious for me to go there. It was not till -my eventual arrival in Mushari that I really understood -the reason of their anxiety.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>When I had penetrated a short distance into the -tangled scrub that has sprung up on the edge of the -lava-stream, my guide mysteriously disappeared; and -as it was already late in the day, and I knew that there -was no chance of obtaining water till I reached the -hills on the far side, I returned. Passing round the base -of the terrace which overhangs the lava-stream, I -eventually arrived back at our main camp. On the -way I traversed a wonderful succession of plantations -and villages. The natives bring all their water from a -distance of six miles.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>I found that Sharp, after losing two stone in frantic -efforts to find elephant, had given up the game as a bad -job, and together we started to make another attempt -to cross into Mushari.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The natives stated that there was a track round -Mount Götzen, and it was not until we had actually -started that they informed us that it was impossible -to take cattle there. One man volunteered to show -the way, but at the last moment endeavoured to escape. -However, he was caught, and a string was tied round his -neck. I explained to him that I could not risk being -left without a guide, and had therefore been compelled -to take that precaution, promising him, however, a -supplementary present when he had completed his -task, as compensation for his offended dignity. He -then protested that the track was impossible, saying -that there was no water for two days, nor any food, and -that the path was so bad that it would cut everybody's -feet to pieces. Sharp and I accordingly arranged that -it would be better to see what the path was like before -moving with the whole caravan. For this purpose I -started with half a dozen men, carrying my necessaries, -while Sharp returned to our camping-place.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>I and my boys set out for the slopes of Mount Götzen, -and on the way managed to pick up two more guides. -After climbing a very steep hill, we arrived on a flat -terrace, where there were many signs of elephant; this -we crossed and plunged into the dense forest, -characteristic of the slopes of these volcanoes. The track -was almost indistinguishable, and the recent depredations -of elephant had rendered it practically impassable. -After eight hours' work we found that it would be -impossible to reach a pool of water which, my guide -acknowledged, existed at some distance. At this point -two of the guides mysteriously vanished, and I sincerely -congratulated myself on having tied the third one up.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>I waited for my boys to close up, but waited in vain: -all except two had lost the track, and though I fired -round after round, there was no response. Everything, -with the exception of the inside of my tent, was with -the boys who had strayed. To afford some shelter we -fixed up this part of the tent on some poles, which we -cut with a sword-bayonet.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Torrential rains fell all night, but unfortunately we -had no means of catching the water, as the roof of -foliage above our heads caught the fall and poured it -on to us through unexpected channels. It was -exceedingly cold, and we had no food. However, the night -passed somehow, and the following morning, retracing -our steps and firing shots at intervals, we eventually -discovered the other boys. The sun was very hot, and -selecting an open glade, we sat down and dried ourselves, -while making a square meal.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>In the midst of my meal I had an idea that somebody -from behind was looking at me; and turning round, I -saw the hideous, distorted features of a pigmy leering -at me in open-mouthed astonishment through the bush -against which I was resting. When he saw that he was -detected he dashed away at an incredible pace, and my -boys failed to catch him. These pigmies are usually -described by travellers as implacably hostile to strangers, -but I never had any trouble with them, although I came -in contact with many.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Having no water or food, I had, for the second time, -to abandon the attempt to reach Mushari, and sorrowfully -retraced my steps to camp, burning on my way the -hut of the guide who had bolted; a punishment that -he richly deserved, as he had undertaken to come for -payment and had left me, thinking that I should be -lost, and taking with him my axe.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>In this part of Africa the natives use the word -"tanganyika" for any lake or extensive body of water.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>On my way into camp I saw another pigmy in one -of the villages. He had brought honey to trade with -the Ruanda people for grain. The natives informed -me that the pigmies have no settled villages, nor do they -cultivate anything. They live the life of the brute in the -forests, perpetually wandering in search of honey or in -pursuit of elephant; when they succeed in killing -anything, they throw up a few grass shelters and remain -there till all the meat is either eaten or dried. They -depend upon the other natives for the necessary grain, -which they either steal or barter for elephant-meat or -honey. All their knives, spear-heads, and arrow-heads -they likewise purchase from other people, but they make -their own bows and arrows. So well are these made -that they are held in great esteem by the surrounding -people. This pigmy fled on my approach, and although -the country was perfectly flat, and therefore my boys -were on equal terms when they tried to catch him, he -easily escaped. The pace at which he ran was -extraordinary. It is curious to notice how perfectly adapted -they are to the surroundings in which they live; the -combination of immense strength necessary for the -precarious hunting-life they lead, and of compactness, -indispensable to rapid movement in dense forest, where -the pig-runs are the only means of passage, is a wonderful -example of nature's adaptability.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>After a few days' rest I made my third and successful -attempt to cross the lava-beds, which I describe in the -following chapter on Mushari.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Sharp undertook to take the live stock and the main -caravan round the southern slope of Mount Götzen, -and to eventually meet me in Mushari. This involved -a waterless tramp of twenty-five miles, unless he could -find the pool of water spoken of by Count Götzen as -existing in a small crater on the lava-bed between Mount -Götzen and the lake.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>On the road he had to pass near the place where he -had lost our thirty sheep and goats, and he determined -to recapture them, if possible. Seeing a large flock -being driven off across the plain he gave chase, followed -by two of his boys, while the main caravan halted. -After a sharp dash over the roughest country imaginable, -semi-disintegrated lava and scrubby bush, he succeeded -in collecting twenty-five goats, and in driving them -to his camping-place. The natives meanwhile collected -in large numbers and fired volleys of arrows at him, -all of which fortunately missed their mark. When -he rejoined the main body of his caravan he found that -two men had been wounded by arrows. An enormous -concourse of natives rapidly gathered on the -surrounding hills.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Having pitched his camp and put the place in a -position of defence, he was hailed by a deputation from -the chief, who said that he wished to pay Sharp -"hongo." Sharp promptly informed them that the chief must -arrive with wood, water, and thirty-five goats, as -compensation for the loss which we had sustained and the -trouble which they had caused us. All this the chief -undertook to do. He was a fine native, standing over -6 ft. After a long delay he returned with three goats, -and without wood or water. So he was promptly -bound with his four headmen and placed in the -guard-tent. After much prevarication and some little delay -the goats were produced, and with them a small tusk -of ivory; whereupon the prisoners were released and -their hearts made glad by a handsome present of cloth -and beads to show that, now that the account was -squared, there was no ill-feeling.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The following day he had much difficulty in getting -his caravan through the difficult country, and failing to -find water, he was compelled to descend to the shore of -Kivu, where a sharp attack of fever delayed him for -some days.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The boys, who had picked up wild rumours of the -existence of bad men in the country to be penetrated, -almost mutinied, and Sharp was fortunately relieved of -the necessity of risking a mutiny through pushing on by -the receipt of a note from me to the effect that he must -return at once, as the country was full of cannibals -and devastated from end to end.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst" id="mushari-and-its-cannibals"><span class="bold large">CHAPTER XII.</span></p> -<p class="center pnext"><span class="bold medium">MUSHARI AND ITS CANNIBALS.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>After these two unsuccessful attempts to reach -Mushari--first, north by Kahanga's country, and -secondly, by the path that runs round the base of -Mount Götzen--I determined to cut straight across the -lava-streams, in spite of everything that the natives -said to dissuade me. Lies, lies, lies, I was sick to -death of them, and resolved to go to Mushari by the -direct route, cost what it might, the behaviour of my -pagazi,[#] which caused my second attempt to fail, -making me only the more determined to show them -that their little games were of no use. In vain I sent -out to the villages for guides, none were forthcoming; -frightened, as I afterwards discovered, by my boys, they -obstinately assured me there was no way across; that -we should die of thirst, be eaten by lions, and so forth, -</span><em class="italics">ad nauseam</em><span>. I gave out orders that all my boys were -to make sandals, and prepare food and water for two -days. In the morning three-quarters of them hobbled -up on sticks, pleading sickness; and when I finally -started, half of them burst into tears and swore that -they were not slaves, to be led into the wilderness to -die. When we reached the edge of the lava-stream, -there were no shoes or food or water; but when I once -stepped on to the stones, the whole scene changed. -Beads were produced, natives with sandals for sale -brought forth, guides sprang up in bewildering plenty, -and, as I had half suspected, I found there was a well-used -track across. There is one thing to be said for the -Manyema: they play their game right out to the end.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="noindent pfirst"><span class="small">[#] Porters.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>We went south-west for four hours across the eastern -stream, making about half a mile an hour; it is like -a very broken glacier such as that which lies under the -north-west side of the Aiguille du Dru near Chamounix, -huge blocks of lava piled one upon the other, and sharp -as razors. The length is about twenty miles, and -breadth about two in the narrowest part. Further north -it branches off to the east and west, the western branch -mingling with the great western stream about fifteen -miles from the pass between Mount Götzen and Mount -Sharp. The natives say that the lava came down two -years ago, and that great numbers of elephants were -killed; I myself saw the bones of one in our -comparatively short traverse.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Already there are patches of bush several miles in -extent where the stream eddied, stayed by some extra -strong clump of trees, and so wonderful is the tropical -growth produced by the combination of damp and -fertile soil, that in another twenty years all obvious -trace of the great eruption will have been erased. The -trees on all the higher spurs which were above the level -of the streams were snapped off short by the wind, and -lie in regular rows towards the main centres of -disturbance. The eruption must have been accompanied by -considerable seismic waves, huge rents occurring in the -surrounding forests; and very beautiful these rents are, -being already converted by a luxuriant nature into -exotic ferneries. After leaving the lava the path led -west into the bush, and about 4 p.m. we reached a pool -of water formed by an old crater. My inquiry as to the -death-rate caused much merriment, and the evening -passed with howls of joy and those unearthly noises -which in Africa pass current for song.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Here we were joined by numbers of natives coming -from Mushari with loads of food. On inquiry I found -that they were refugees, having been driven out by the -Baleka or Bareka, a tribe of cannibals from the Congo -who had raided their country. They told me that those -who had survived were living in the forest, and that -great numbers were dying every day of hunger. On -the morrow we skirted along the base of the new volcano -for about fourteen miles through the most beautiful -glades, coming across several pools of water. Dead -natives lined the path, showing that the tales of our last -night's companions were only too true. Towards -evening we reached the great western stream, and here we -met several natives who were living amongst the stones -in the most awful misery, hardly daring even to make -a fire. They said that they had been living thus for -six months. When driven to despair by hunger, they -would make a dash for an armful of half-ripe grain, -each time losing some of their number by the Baleka, -who were watching all the paths. I lined their bellies -and warmed their hearts (identical organs, I believe, in -the African and perhaps some others) with beans; and -in the morning we advanced into the dreaded land. -All the paths up the hills that led to the uplands of -Mushari were lined with grain and torn skins, relics of -those unfortunates who had been caught; and dried -pools of blood, gaunt skeletons, grinning skulls, and -trampled grass told a truly African tale. On arriving -at the top of the ridge a beautiful rolling country opened -out before us, dotted with clusters of grass huts and -stately trees; russet patches of ripening mtama -contrasted with the emerald green of the wild banana, range -upon range of purple hills melted into the nether-world -of a tropical horizon. But we were not to enjoy the -scenery long, for distant howls showed that we had -been observed, silhouetted as we were against the sky; -and strings of black figures, brandishing spears and -howling at the expected feast, came running down from -a neighbouring hill. I was still uncertain as to the -exact state of affairs. The refugees and the numerous -corpses made it obvious that there was something in -the wind, but I imagined that it was merely an ordinary -case of native fractiousness, some intertribal squabble, -such as occurs every day in these remote corners of the -Dark Continent, and that the Baleka and their doings -were merely a characteristic effort of the African -imagination. But the diabolical noise made by the onrushing -natives decided me that the matter was serious. I -questioned my guide as to their intentions, and was -scarcely reassured by his naïve remark: "They are -coming to eat us." Accordingly I kept quiet behind -a clump of grass till they were quite close and there was -no further doubt of their intentions, and opened fire -with my light rifle. They disappeared like rabbits into -the standing crops.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>We then hurried on to the huts from which we had -seen these people come; but they were too quick for us, -and fled. A cloud of vultures hovering over the spot -gave me an inkling of what I was about to see, but -the realization defies description; it haunts me in my -dreams, at dinner it sits on my leg-of-mutton, it bubbles -in my soup--in fine, Watonga would not eat the potatoes -that grew in the same country, and went without food -for forty-eight hours rather than do so: ask your -African friends what that means; negroes have not -delicate stomachs. Loathsome, revolting, a hideous -nightmare of horrors; and yet I must tell briefly what -I saw, for the edification of any disciple of the -poor-dear-black-man, down-with-the-Maxim, Africa-for-the-African -Creed, who may chance to peruse these pages.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><em class="italics">Item</em><span>.--A bunch of human entrails drying on a stick.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><em class="italics">Item</em><span>.--A howling baby.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><em class="italics">Item</em><span>.--A pot of soup with bright yellow fat.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><em class="italics">Item</em><span>.--A skeleton with the skin on lying in the middle -of the huts; apparently been dead about three months.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><em class="italics">Item</em><span>.--A gnawed thigh-bone with shreds of half-cooked -meat attached.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><em class="italics">Item</em><span>.--A gnawed forearm, raw.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><em class="italics">Item</em><span>.--Three packets of small joints, evidently -prepared for flight, but forgotten at the last moment.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><em class="italics">Item</em><span>.--A head, with a spoon left sticking in the brains.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><em class="italics">Item</em><span>.--A head, one cheek eaten, the other charred; -hair burnt, and scalp cut off at top of forehead like the -peel of an orange; one eye removed, presumably eaten, -the other glaring at you.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><em class="italics">Item</em><span>.--Offal, sewage.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><em class="italics">Item</em><span>.--A stench that passeth all understanding, and, -as a fitting accompaniment, a hovering cloud of crows -and loathly, scraggy-necked vultures.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Every village had been burnt to the ground, and as I -fled from the country I saw skeletons, skeletons -everywhere; and such postures, what tales of horror they -told! Let this suffice, worse than all this I saw, and -that I have not exaggerated one jot or tittle, may God -bear me witness! I would not have entered into these -revolting details, but that I think it advisable that -those who have not the chance of seeing for themselves -should know what is going on every day in this country. -A beautiful yellow covers this spot on the map, with a -fringe of red spots with flags attached, denoting (as the -map informs you) stations of the Congo Free State. -And yet a peaceful agricultural people can be subjected -to horrors like this for months (</span><em class="italics">without any one knowing</em><span>). -And why? Because the whole system is bunkum--the -so-called partition of Africa. The stations marked do -not exist; and read, mark, learn, and inwardly digest -this fact: I have to pay a licence </span><em class="italics">to carry a gun</em><span> in the -country.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The next day I reached Kishari, and found that this -beautiful and well-watered country had been converted -into a howling wilderness, Kameronse having suffered -to the same extent. Thus a tract of country about -3,000 square miles in extent has been depopulated and -devastated. I do not believe that two per cent. of the -thousands of inhabitants have survived the massacre -and famine: in Kishari and Kameronse there is not -one single soul. And all this is directly attributable to -the revolted Askaris of the Congo: they led the attack -with thirty guns, took all the cattle, and then departed, -leaving this horde of hyænas in their wake; and a similar -fate has, I suppose, befallen all those tribes between -Tanganyika and Albert Edward through whose country -they passed.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The partition or occupation of Africa with a view to -sound colonization--that is, to fit the country as a -future home for surplus population--is the obvious duty -of the nations which form the vanguard of civilization. -This is the object of our occupation of the various -territories under the British flag, and of the Germans -in the East and South-west Africa, and, I believe, of -the French in the north, to make new markets and -open up country for coming generations; to suffer -temporary loss for the future benefit of overcrowded -humanity. Experience and the suitability of our -institutions are the reasons of our success. The -predominance of militarism is the reason of the hitherto -comparative failure of the two great land powers, and -corruption and senile decay are the reasons of the abject -failure of the nation that led the van of colonization. -However, </span><em class="italics">experientia docet</em><span>, and Germany, at least, is -laying a sound foundation for a broader colonial policy, -while Portuguese occupation is only a negative failure. -But what can be said in favour of permitting a vast -tract of country to be run merely as a commercial -speculation without more legitimate objective than that -of squeezing as much rubber and ivory out of the natives -as possible; of arming large numbers of savages and -entrusting them to inexperienced men from a land of -untravelled commercials to whom expatriation is akin -to disgrace; of making the administrators of districts -to all intents and purposes farmers of the taxes? -However sound the intentions of the fountain-head, there -can be no responsible administration without a -connection with a definite home government. Men do not -take employment in Africa for the joke of the thing. -Hopes of preferment or pecuniary profit are what induce -them to give up the comforts of civilization, and where -the former is lacking the latter must be offered, or only -the dregs of other trades will be forthcoming.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Then followed two of the worst days of my life. -Rapid movements alone could save us from annihilation, -and we travelled from sunrise to sunset, camping in -patches of forest, and concealing our route by -leaving the paths and forcing our way through the grass. -Mummies, skulls, limbs, putrefying carcases washing -to and fro in every limpid stream, marked the course -of the fiendish horde. An insufferable stench filled the -land, concentrating round every defiled homestead. -This was the Congo Free State. Fear of being rushed at -night made sleep well-nigh impossible, tired as we were. -The country was exceedingly beautiful. Wild stretches -of undulating hills, streaked with forest and drained -by a hundred streams, each with its cargo of bloated -corpses, made a terrible combination of heaven and -hell. It was a scene that made one wonder if there -be a God. To the west I could see two lakes nestling -between the hills. A stream connects the two, and -empties out at the south end, flowing, I imagined, -towards the Congo. Flights of gorgeous butterflies floated -here and there, and, settling on the gruesome relics, -gave a finishing touch to the horrors of that land.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Leaving Kishari, we passed over the watershed, about -9,500 ft., and descended into Kameronse. Here we were -met by the same scenes of desolation; the whole country -had been swept clean--not so much as a sweet potato, -which grow almost as weeds, was left. As we were -skirting along a large papyrus swamp, which absorbs all the -neighbouring streams, we came on the fresh spoor of -natives. I had only just seized my gun, for which I -had to wait about ten minutes, when a woman, girl, and -two small boys appeared. These my natives captured; -and no sooner did the woman realize that she had fallen -into undesirable quarters, than she offered to show us -where her relations lay. I followed the direction -indicated with great caution, the way leading through very -tall and thick grass; and as I turned a corner, my guide -flashed past me like a streak of lightning, and I found -myself confronted by half a dozen gentlemen of -anthropophagic proclivities on supper intent. The unexpected -apparition of a white man checked their rush, and -dodging a spear, I got my chance and dropped one with a -shot through the heart, two others escaping by my -magazine failing to feed the barrel. We rushed on in -pursuit, and shortly came on their encampment in a banana -grove; here were the same ghastly relics as we had seen -before. It appeared that they had raided an outlying -village of Bugoie the previous night, and had caught two -unfortunate wretches, whose remains were baking and -stewing in pots. From the number of the rude huts -there must have been at least fifty Baleka, but they had -disappeared into the grass and papyrus, and we saw no -more of them. Some baskets of grain were lying about, -and these the Manyema eagerly seized upon; but I could -not bring myself to eat any, and my Watonga were -equally fastidious, although we had been almost without -food for three days. Our captives were terribly thin, -and these outlying bands of raiders are evidently leading -but a hand-to-mouth existence; and as the Baleka have -cut their boats adrift by wiping out the whole country -behind them (in their wanton madness they even cut -down the banana palms), I am afraid the people of Bugoie -will eventually succumb, although hitherto they have -held out. As yet they have only had to repel the attacks -of small bands, the main mass of the Baleka being still -occupied in demolishing the mtama fields of northern -Mushari. When the general onslaught begins, I think -they will have to give way before the thousands of -savages rendered desperate by the impossibility of retreat, -and those, too, men of superior courage. Those Baleka -that I had the chance of observing at close quarters were -well made and pleasant-featured, averaging not more -than 5 ft. Their possessions--baskets, shields, knives, -etc.--are very crude, and their dress consists of air and an -occasional scrap of hide, human or otherwise. Whether -they have a definite country or not, I cannot say; some -natives told me that they have, many days' journey -west of Kivu, while the majority say that they lead a -nomadic existence like a flight of locusts, eating up just -as effectually whatever they come across. At a rough -estimate, there cannot have been less than 5,000 of them -in the countries I passed through.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The next morning we came on another small encampment, -which, fortunately, had been unable to see our -fires, owing to the dense bush, although we were not -half a mile away. To my amazement our guide, seeing -one gentleman apart from the rest and unarmed, rushed -in and speared him. The others turned on me, but were -dispersed with a couple of shots. This was the last we -saw of the Baleka, as, in the evening, we reached the -outskirts of Bugoie, but skulls and charred relics for -many miles bore witness to their recent raids. Very -glad I was of a night's rest, for although the moral and -sometimes physical effect of firearms on these unsophisticated -people is very great, still the danger of being -rushed at night, or in the dense forest and long grass, -made it very anxious work; also the smallness of my -caravan--twelve carriers with only two sniders, and such -excitable curs at the end of them that I forbade them to -fire--made us a tempting prey for any large number of -natives we might meet; however, this was balanced by -the rapidity of our movements and unexpected appearance, -which would have been impossible with a larger -caravan.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Such was the country that had been described to me -by Dr. Kandt, who had visited it six months before, as -a beautiful district teeming with peaceful agricultural -folk. The natives informed me that of all that -flourishing community but sixty remained. I was very anxious -about Sharp, fearing that he might enter the country -by a different road to that by which I had just left. -Had he arrived hampered by a large caravan and cattle, -he must inevitably have been destroyed. Hoping that -he was still south of the volcanoes, I hurried east through -the forest that is springing up on the great lava-bed -thrown out by the last eruption but one. Here too the -path was strewn with skulls, showing the desperate -efforts that the Baleka had made to force an entry into -Bugoie. Late in the afternoon we arrived at an old -volcanic cone. This was the outpost of Bugoie, and the -few wretched survivors, seeing us approaching through -the forest, naturally mistook us for Baleka, and quickly -prepared for battle. It was only after an hour's shouting -that we allayed their fears. With some difficulty we -managed to procure a jar of bad water, which we sadly -needed, having had nothing to drink since daybreak, -and we endeavoured to appease our ravening hunger -with a brace of pumpkins, which was all the poor -creatures had to offer us. Their destitution was complete, -and filled me with pity, but I was powerless to assist -them. It was impossible to obtain any definite -information about Sharp, and it was with the direst -forebodings that I started the following morning, as I knew -that there was now no chance of intercepting him. -However, an hour later I met an elderly pigmy in the forest -and managed to induce him to talk. He was a splendid -little fellow full of self-confidence, and gave me most -concise information, stating that the white man with -many belongings had passed near by two days before, -and had then gone down to the lake-shore, where he -was camped at that moment. These people must have -a wonderful code of signs and signals, as, despite their -isolated and nomadic existence, they always know -exactly what is happening everywhere. He was a typical -pigmy as found on the volcanoes--squat, gnarled, proud, -and easy of carriage. His beard hung down over his -chest, and his thighs and chest were covered with wiry -hair. He carried the usual pigmy bow made of two -pieces of cane spliced together with grass, and with a -string made of a single strand of a rush that grows in -the forests.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>I sent off two of my boys with a note to Sharp, and -pushed on as fast as possible to the food districts of -Bugoie, where my boys ate so much that I despaired -of their surviving. For the next two days I was very -ill, owing to my having eaten a number of green bananas -in the first banana plantation that I entered. The -scarcity of water made it still more difficult to endure -the pangs of hunger during the last day of our march.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Having partially recovered, I marched back to my -northernmost camp and waited for Sharp. The natives, -thinking that I could be imposed upon with my small -caravan, ignored my presence, and in face of several -requests refused to bring in food for sale. The country -was very rich in produce, so I warned the chief that -unless he brought in food in the ordinary way for sale -I should be obliged to come and take what I wanted, -as I could not starve. I was just preparing to carry out -my threat, when Sharp arrived, and the chief soon turned -up with a diseased sheep and about a quart of flour, -which I promptly clapped on to his head, while Sharp -roared with laughter at him. He tried hard to maintain -his dignity, but with little effect: a little, tub-bellied -man, he presented the most ridiculous spectacle imaginable -as he stalked out of camp half black, half white, -preceded by his awed followers. In the afternoon he -returned with plenty of supplies, and after receiving a -handsome present in exchange, retired quite satisfied. -After making yet two more attempts after elephant, in -the course of which I came on many cattle-yards hidden -in the deepest recesses of the forest, we gave it up as -hopeless, and determined to press on to the Albert -Edward Lake. During one of my elephant hunts I came -on the skeleton of a gigantic ape, larger than anything I -have ever seen in the anthropoids, but I never saw a -live specimen, though the natives assured me that they -were plentiful, and were a great source of annoyance to -the villages, being in the habit of carrying off stray -women.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>While exploring with a small number of followers, I -observed some ape-like creatures leering at me from -behind banana-palms, and with considerable difficulty -my Ruanda guide induced one of them to come and be -inspected. He was a tall man with the long arms, -pendent paunch, and short legs of the ape, pronouncedly -microcephalous and prognathous. At first he was -terribly alarmed, but soon gained confidence, and when I -asked him about game and elephant, he gave me most -realistic representations of them and of how they should -be attacked. I failed to exactly define their status, but -from the contempt in which they were held by the Wa -Ruanda their local caste must be very low. The stamp -of the brute was so strong on them that I should place -them lower in the human scale than any other natives -I have seen in Africa. Their type is quite distinct from -the other people's, and, judging from the twenty to thirty -specimens that I saw, very consistent. Their face, body, -and limbs are covered with wiry hair, and the hang of -the long, powerful arms, the slight stoop of the trunk, -and the hunted, vacant expression of the face, made up -a </span><em class="italics">tout ensemble</em><span> that was a terrible pictorial proof of -Darwinism. Two of them accompanied me to Mushari. -On the road they showed me the ease with which they -can make fire with their fire-sticks.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst" id="the-rutchuru-valley-and-the-albert-edward-lake"><span class="bold large">CHAPTER XIII.</span></p> -<p class="center pnext"><span class="bold medium">THE RUTCHURU VALLEY AND THE ALBERT EDWARD LAKE.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>On June 26th we started on our march to the Albert -Edward Lake, and camped that night near -Kahanga's village. Many of the more important men came -and paid their respects to us, but Kahanga himself did -not turn up. We inquired of his Prime Minister for -what reason he had not done so, and were informed that -he was ill; but having, as I thought, seen him, as I passed, -looking far from ill, I made further inquiries, and -discovered that he was afraid of our caravan, and imagined -that if he came to our camp we should make him prisoner -and demand a big ransom of ivory. I can only imagine -that he had heard of other white men behaving in this -manner. I tried hard to induce him to come, but in -vain. As when I was there before with only a few boys -he had been exceedingly friendly, it is obvious under -what disadvantages one labours when travelling through -Africa with a big caravan.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The following day we crossed the Mungawo, and -following the ridge of the spur which runs down to the -junction of the Mungawo and the Kako through the -Shoni district, we camped on a bluff overlooking the -Kako itself.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The Kako, as the southern portion of the Rutchuru is -called, is a large body of water, many feet deep, and -quite unfordable. Its banks are clothed with dense -forests.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The people of Shoni were most friendly, and we -purchased a large supply of beans. At this camp I saw a -waterbuck, the first antelope that we had seen for many -weeks.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>We crossed the river by a native bridge formed of -trunks of trees thrown across and bound together with -fibre. Beneath, the Kako thundered, a mighty torrent, -and the cloud of spray had left a saline deposit on the -rocks, which was much appreciated by our cattle.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The name of the district into which we had entered -was Imukubsu. From here we had a magnificent view -of the volcanoes, and having dropped 4,000 ft. we were -enabled to see what an imposing mass Mount Eyres is; -its form on this side is an exact facsimile of the -Matterhorn from the Riffelalp.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Here we purchased some of the curious hippo spears -that are used by all the natives on the Albert Edward -Lake; they have a large piece of cork or light wood on -the end of the haft which floats the spear if they miss -their aim. We also purchased some medicine for -producing rain; it was a small goat's horn filled with the -congealed blood of chickens.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Our Baleka prisoners were most amusing. Their joint -clothing when captured consisted of one string of beads, -half a dozen wire bracelets, and a human tooth as a -pendant to a necklace of elephant hair. They were very -hungry, and quite pleased with their quarters. It was -a terrible sight to see how they tore and devoured -half-raw meat, but apparently they missed the flavour which -they had particularly affected, as they could never satisfy -themselves. Because of the quantity of food they -consumed, our boys viewed them with considerable -disfavour. We issued for their use a large block of soap, -and insisted on their bathing in every available stream; -after that we presented them with some blue cloth and -a red blanket, draped in which they appeared quite -respectable, although the style of costume did not seem -to lend itself to their figures or type of beauty.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The western side of the valley is covered with luxuriant -forest, and the eastern side consists of rolling grass land -till fifteen miles from the lake, when the country settles -down into one vast plain.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The people of Imukubsu appear to be practically -independent of the Kigeri, although they are undoubtedly -part of the Ruanda stock.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Here four streams flow down from the east, the most -important being the Fuko. At the outlet of the Fuko -the Kako becomes the Rutchuru, and the district to the -east is called Bukoma, and is very sparsely inhabited. -Still further to the east lies the district of Ijomba, which -centres round two rather prominent peaks. Six miles -further north there is again a considerable population, -and large plantations of bananas.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The following day we crossed a stream of considerable -breadth, filled with papyrus; the water was very deep, -and we had great difficulty in the crossing of our goats -and sheep. Marching through a desolate country with -no population, we arrived at a good stream called the -Gwenda. The bed of this stream is very curious; the -country drops suddenly 100 ft., forming a broad, -flat-bottomed valley, down the middle of which the Gwenda -has carved out a deep trough. The valley is so flat that -it cannot be due to erosion, and is probably a -recently-dried-up arm of the lake.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>From there we crossed a vast plateau, covered with -short grass; and it was not until three in the afternoon -that we reached an insignificant stream, on the banks -of which were a few poverty-stricken villages.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The type of native had changed entirely; they -informed us that they were Wanyabinga, and that the -name of their country was Wataka. They refused -cloth or beads, saying that they had no use for such -things, their only garment consisting of well-cured -skins.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The following morning we marched through similar -country, and saw many tracks of elephant. I was leading -the caravan that day, and was suddenly stopped by the -cry of "Elephant!" I hastily put my big gun together, -and saw a herd of fifty elephant cross the path and -descend on to the flat plain below; they reminded me -forcibly of an old print of the Spanish Armada, as they -sailed past through the long grass; their huge ears -flapping to and fro gave the impression of sails; and their -gliding action over the uneven ground was exactly -similar to the motion of a ship. The grass covered their -legs, and the peculiar swinging action of the elephant, -who moves both the legs on one side at the same time, -gives the appearance of the beast being on wheels. -Sending a note back to Sharp, I hurried off in pursuit, as -they swept into an extensive patch of dense thorn jungle. -The track was easy to follow, owing to the number that -had passed, and after a sharp burst of half an hour I -saw one standing broadside on, about thirty yards ahead. -I tried for the brain-shot with my .303. He threw his -trunk into the air, and fell like a rock--dead. Two more -appeared at the shot, and looked at me; I fired, and the -whole herd crashed away; then I remembered that the -magazine of my gun had been loaded with expanding -bullets. I rushed after them, but failed to catch them -up, and I had the greatest difficulty in retracing my -steps; the elephant had forced a way through the -thornbush, and it was comparatively easy, in the excitement -of pursuit, to follow, as I could push the thorns open in -front as the elephant had done before me; but on my -return journey it was almost impossible to get through, -as the thorns, which had swung back in their place, had -to be pulled towards one to allow a passage. However, -eventually I arrived at my dead elephant, full of thorns, -and torn to pieces. It was only a small bull, but it was -my first, and as I strolled back to the caravan, the beast's -tail in my hand, I was a proud man.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>I had some difficulty in getting out of the jungle. In -trying to do so I arrived unexpectedly in a village hidden -in the thicket. The people, hearing my shots, had put -the village in a state of defence. It was surrounded by -almost impenetrable jungle, except at two places, where -there was an elaborate gate and stockade. The gate -had been filled up with a pile of heavy logs, pointing -outwards and upwards, which rendered entrance impossible -from without, but, to their astonishment, I arrived -through the thicket. As I promptly leaned my rifle -against a hut and put out my hand to greet them, their -suspicions were allayed, and they gave me some water; -then one of their number showed me the path out of -the jungle, and I rejoined the caravan. Half a mile -further on we camped by two muddy pools on the -outskirts of the thicket.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The natives became quite friendly, and brought us -large quantities of a small kind of bean, and helped us -to cut out the tusks. Our carriers came to see the -elephant, and forming a ring round it, chanted a song in -its honour, and each man threw a handful of grass on -its side to show his respect, but, of course, would not eat -the meat. Curiously enough, the natives also refused -to eat the meat, although they were very poor; they -informed us that they would eat hippo meat, but not -elephant, which seemed to me a very subtle distinction. -We cut off a portion of the trunk and boiled it gently -for twelve hours, but did not eat much of it when it -came to table; the meat was excellent, but the two -unpleasant tubes through the middle, and the wrinkled -black skin with its short, stubby bristles, did not give -an appetizing, appearance to the </span><em class="italics">plat</em><span>. However, the -youthful cannibals devoured it, although there must have -been at least ten pounds, in the short space of an hour. -The two elderly cannibals disappeared during the night. -It was evidently a move on the part of our boys, who -resented the proportion of presents that fell to the -cannibals' lot.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The reports of the country in front were not encouraging, -so we bought up a considerable quantity of beans; -and the following morning marched across the plain, -and arrived near another village, similar to the one we -had left, which was also carefully hidden in the jungle. -This village was elaborately stockaded, and the natives -absolutely refused to allow me to enter; however, I -eventually succeeded in obtaining a guide, and we -continued our march till we arrived at a small lagoon, where -our guide promptly left us. Here we saw a considerable -number of topi-hartebeeste and Uganda kob; these, -with the exception of one waterbuck mentioned above, -were the only game that we had seen for many long -weeks; and it was a great treat to have a change from -the inevitable goat.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Here the plain opened out to a tremendous width and -had the most desolate appearance, all the short grass -being burnt; and the only relieving features were a -few patches of thorn-scrub and an occasional candelabra -euphorbia. Having no guide and no idea of what was -before us, it was rather a risky undertaking to go ahead -without reconnoitring; but retreat was impossible, owing -to the scarcity of provisions, and the quantity of game -rendered actual starvation improbable.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The following morning we launched forth, and after a -long march, as I was beginning to get doubtful as to -whether we should find water, I sighted the Rutchuru -river, which here swings back towards the east. There -was a considerable quantity of Uganda kob, topi-hartebeeste, -and Chanler's reedbuck, and on the path we saw -several traces of lions, while the river teemed with -hippopotami. The country is very barren, and there are -numerous salt-pans, which at a distance appear like -snow.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>While the tents were being pitched, we went out and -quickly secured a supply of meat. The Manyema, like -all tribes that have come under the influence of the -Arabs, refused to eat the meat of any animal that had -not had its throat cut while still alive; they also refuse -to eat hippo, elephant, or pig, but, curiously enough, are -not so particular about rhinoceros.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>We deemed it advisable to camp here for a day, while -we went out in different directions to inspect the country, -as we could still, by a forced march, manage to reach -food countries if we found it impossible to proceed.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>I went down the river, and six miles north came -unexpectedly through a belt of reeds on to the lake-shore. -Where the Rutchuru enters the lake there is a very -extensive swamp, the haunt of thousands of birds (pelicans, -geese, and various storks), and many hippo. Here I -found a very sparse fishing population; their huts were -built in the swamp, and they themselves travelled about -in dangerous-looking canoes. They were very shy, and -it was only after repeated efforts that I succeeded in -inducing two men to come and talk; from them I -purchased a few fish, giving them beads in exchange; and -I made many inquiries as to the country that we had -to traverse. They informed me that there were no -villages for many days, and that the few villages that -existed at some distance from the lake were reduced to -pitiable straits by the drought, and the raids of some -tribe from the east.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Hence it was obviously impossible to proceed without -laying in a stock of provisions; so we shot several -antelope and made our men dry the meat over fires.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>I was suffering from slight fever, and consequently -Sharp undertook to return with boys and purchase as -many loads as possible of beans.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The fever brought on a very bad foot; I had rubbed -all the skin off the heel with elephant-hunting, and had -been walking on it ever since; and owing to the poisonous -influence of the fever, it swelled to a great size, and -was in such an unhealthy condition that when I pushed -my finger into the swelling it left a cavity which did not -swell out again for some minutes. As it was impossible -to stop in the country, I had to make arrangements to -be carried, and all the time that I was in camp, sat with -my foot in a basin filled with a strong solution of -permanganate of potash, applying a poultice of Elliman's -Embrocation at night.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Here the water of the Rutchuru was almost too salt -to drink, and we were not sorry to reach the lake, where, -although the water was salt, it was drinkable.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Sharp shot several fine kob and topi, the horns being -equal to anything recorded in Rowland Ward's book, -</span><em class="italics">Horns and their Measurement</em><span>.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The water at the edge of the lake was very shallow. -Two days from the Rutchuru my leg became so bad that -we were compelled to stop; and as the supply of food -was already running short, we sent some of our boys -back to buy a fresh supply.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Here we were visited by some natives who, having -heard our shots, came down the lake in canoes to find -out who we were; they had a few guns which they had -purchased from some Swahili traders; and as they -entered the camp they fired a salute in our honour. -The chief, who was a most intelligent native, asked us -whether we wanted to buy any ivory. We told him to -bring it to us, so that we might see whether it was worth -purchasing. He brought a small tusk of 30 lbs., and -said that he had another very large tusk, which he dared -not bring unless we made blood-brotherhood with him. -This we did, our headman serving as proxy.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The mode of procedure was as follows: Our headman -sat down opposite the native's representative, each -party having a sponsor, while the eldest of the natives -constituted himself master of the ceremonies. Two -small pieces of meat were procured, and each sponsor -held one in his hand; the master of the ceremonies then -explained that we were to become blood-brothers of the -chief, and evoked a series of curses on either party that -might not be true to the pledge. The words of his -weird incantation were,--</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>"May hippopotami run against him; may leopards -tear him by night; may hunger and thirst gripe him; -may his women be barren; may his children wither, -even as the grass withers; may crocodiles rend him; -may lions howl round his couch by night; may elephants -crush him," etc.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Having thus evoked all imaginary curses on the -delinquent's head, he made a slight incision on each of the -parties' chest. The blood that flowed from the cut -having been smeared on the two pieces of raw meat, -each party had to devour the piece smeared with the -blood of the other.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>A loaded gun had been placed between them, and -when the ceremony was complete, this was fired into the -air; while the chief and his attendants fired another -volley. Thereupon I had the 4-bore brought forth, and -told off my headman to fire it, while my gun-bearer -supported him--an advisable precaution. The tremendous -report, the obvious recoil, and the shriek of the huge -bullet impressed them mightily.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>We then called the chief up and taught him to shake -hands, saying that it was the Englishman's method of -making blood-brotherhood; and that now that we had -performed the rites of both people, the Wanyabinga -and the Englishman, there could be no possibility of the -compact ever being broken. And we pointed out our -flag,[#] which was flying over the camp, and told him -that wherever in future he saw that flag, he might know -that he would be well received and treated with justice.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="noindent pfirst"><span class="small">[#] This flag was accepted by her late Majesty the Queen.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>They then filed off with a handsome present of cloth, -delighted with the result of their visit; and the -following morning they arrived with the tusk, which was a -large one, weighing about 80 lbs. But we did not -purchase it, explaining to them that we had only come -there to see the country, and to hunt elephant for our -own amusement, and that we were not like the Swahili -traders whom they had met. We allowed them to bring -the tusk, so that they might see that they could repose -absolute confidence in us. With the tusk they brought -several loads of sweet potatoes, and we gave them a -present in exchange.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The chief was a very pleasant and intelligent native, -and during the next two days Sharp made several short -trips with him. One day the chief and all his men -showed us how they hunted antelope with dogs. The -dogs were well trained; they rounded the beast and -drove it within reach of the hunters, who succeeded in -spearing it.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The whole of the southern coast of the Albert Edward -is the home of hundreds of hippopotami, and the beach -is lined with masses of their dung; all night they kept -up a tremendous concert of bellowing and grunts, which -rendered sleep well-nigh impossible.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>My foot having meanwhile sufficiently healed to allow -me to be carried, we advanced along the shore of the lake, -and camped at the edge of the extensive swamp at the -mouth of the three main streams which flow into the -lake from the south-east. Here it was obvious that -there had been a recent and abrupt rise in the country, -the old lake-bed being sharply defined.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>From this point I perceived that my observations -would materially diminish the area of the lake; the -suggested coast-line on extant maps practically -corresponds with the last lake level. Judging from the -comparatively insignificant size of the vegetation on the -recently-exposed lake-bed, the last rise and level must -have been historically recent and quite sudden; in fact, -a remarkable point was that this vegetation corresponds -in age to the vegetation found on the lava-beds that -had been poured out by the volcanoes immediately prior -to the late terrific eruption.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Owing to the swampy nature of the country, we were -compelled to again march south-east; and after crossing -a flat table-land, again descended on to the last level of -the lake, where we crossed the first of the south-eastern -streams, called the Sasa. Here an arm of the late lake -level runs five miles inland, and is three miles broad. -Then we again climbed on to the table-land, which is the -last lake-level but two, and camped on the site of two -deserted villages.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Our blood-brother was still with us, and he informed -us that these villages had been raided by a tribe from -the east, and that the surviving inhabitants had retired -to the impenetrable thorn-jungle, or had fled to the -Rutchuru valley.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>From this camp we looked down on a great swampy -plain which absorbs the waters of these three -south-eastern streams. In many places geysers were shooting -vast jets of steam into the air, and the course of the -rivers was defined by dense strips of luxuriant jungle.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The surrounding country must be rising very rapidly, -and the geysers are an indication of considerable volcanic -activity. By the last rise the lake has lost a hundred -and twenty square miles; and the loss occasioned by the -last rise but one must have amounted to several hundreds -of square miles.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The map of this lake-shore emphasizes the -extraordinary similarity of form in all the great lakes of -Central Africa, with the one exception of the Victoria -Nyanza. A glance at the map will show that the angular -inclination and general form of Lake Nyassa, Lake -Tanganyika, Lake Albert Edward, and Lake Albert have a -wonderful resemblance to one another.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The next day we again descended on to the last lake -level, and crossed the Ntungwe river. This river we -crossed by means of an ingenious native bridge, which -would suggest that the country at some time not very -remote was much more densely populated. After passing -through one or two insignificant villages, we camped -by a small lagoon. The following morning we crossed -the third stream which feeds these swamps, but I could -not ascertain its name; and we were compelled to make -a detour to the east to avoid some very dense strips of -jungle, in which we found some carefully-hidden villages, -strongly fortified by stockades. The natives had -carefully closed the entrance, but appeared to be quite -friendly; and here, with great regret, we said farewell -to our Wanyabinga brother.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Our day's march brought us once more to the lake-shore, -which was still swampy; and as reed was growing -at a distance of one mile from the shore, it was evident -that the lake was still very shallow, and in all probability -the next few years will see another very considerable -change in its area.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>A few miles further on there is a small bay, where are -two insignificant villages close to the lake. Here the -natives cultivate dwarf banana-plants, and eke out a -precarious existence by trapping hippopotami. They -build a stout scaffold of logs and fasten thereto a -booby-trap, consisting of a heavily-weighted spear-head.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>These villages were on the frontier of Visegwe's country, -who is one of Kaihura's chiefs. Here my fever assumed -a serious form; my temperature at one time rose to -108.4, but the motherly attentions of Sharp pulled me -through; and when I was sufficiently recovered to be -moved, he procured a gigantic dug-out canoe, in which -I was paddled to Katwe, the frontier post of the Uganda -Protectorate.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Sharp marched up the lake-shore, and with the assistance -of Kazinga, ferried all the loads and boys across the -narrow neck of Lake Ruisamba. The ferry is not more -than four hundred yards wide, and with considerable -trouble the cattle were induced to swim the distance. -Two natives seized each beast by the horns, and, swimming -by its side, assisted it across. Fortunately there -were no crocodiles in the vicinity. The canoes were of -extraordinary structure, and are peculiar to Lake Albert -Edward, although they approximate to the type of -canoe to be found on the Victoria Nyanza; some of -them are very large. They are made of axe-hewn boards, -sewn together with banana fibre.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst" id="katwe-to-toro"><span class="bold large">CHAPTER XIV.</span></p> -<p class="center pnext"><span class="bold medium">KATWE TO TORO.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>As we had never heard that the boundary between -the Uganda Protectorate and the Congo Free -State had been definitely settled, we were surprised to -find the Congo flag flying almost within shooting -distance of the fort; and on our sending over to buy fish, -we found that the natives across the border were not -allowed to sell to us. Furthermore, the Soudanese officer -in charge told us that the trade in salt had almost died -out, as the Congo officials stopped their natives from -bringing ivory or food to barter. It is hard to -understand why the hard-and-fast line of the thirtieth parallel -has been adhered to, when there is the natural boundary -of the Semliki. With that boundary there would be no -severance of the possessions of a chief, whereas now -some of the land of Kaihura is Belgian and some English, -and an uneducated native cannot be expected to serve -two masters with different laws and widely-separated -methods of treating him.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>In the fort we were also shown the bullet-marks of -the rebel Congo troops, who had attacked the fort -because the Effendi refused to give up the fugitive Belgian -lieutenant who had taken refuge there. As Colonel -Lugard remarks in his </span><em class="italics">Rise of our East African Empire</em><span>, -the fort stands in a very strong position; but there -was no Congo fort in his time.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>We here enjoyed the shelter of a roof for the first -time for many months, despite the uncomfortable -accessories of thousands of mosquitoes and armies of rats.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The Effendi kindly revictualled our forces, as we were -not allowed to trade on our own account, and we gladly -turned our backs on the bare ridges of the fort, and the -curiously-coloured salt lake, and started on the -eighty-mile march to Fort Gerry.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Elephant were reported as numerous throughout the -country, and we looked forward to a little sport as a -change, more especially as an Askari had shot a fine bull -two days before, when he was out bathing in one of the -streams we had to cross. We started on an excellent -cleared road, myself in a machila, as the fever had left -me too weak to walk, and passing several volcanic lakes -and extinct craters, camped close by a large salt lake -round the edge of which the spoor of many antelope was -visible, and in which a few hippo snorted and splashed.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Hundreds of reedbuck dashed wildly about the plains, -and a few kobus and waterbuck were seen in the -distance, but, the grass being very short, there was no -chance of a stalk.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Every day we crossed one or more beautiful clear -streams, running down gullies from Mount Ruwenzori, -the principal one being the Wimi; but nowhere did we -ever get more than a glimpse of the outlying shoulders -of the mountain, the higher peaks being always hidden -in mist.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Elephant spoor was plentiful, but grass fires had cleared -the whole of the plain and driven all the game to the -foot-hills or swamps, and day after day our hopes of -elephant were doomed to disappointment.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>We met a Congo official--a Belgian--returning from -a visit to Fort Gerry to his station, Fort Mbeni on the -Semliki, whence there is a rapid and easy route or -high-road to the Congo, of which the missionary, Mr. Lloyd, -has lately given a startling account in </span><em class="italics">The Graphic</em><span>.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>On July 27th we camped within sight of the hills, -where Kasagama reigns by favour of the British Government, -happy in the knowledge of the final extinction of -his old enemy, Kabbarega; and on the morrow we -gathered that we were nearing the end of our journey, -by the amount of "Amerikani"[#] and the quantity of -crucifixes, the hall-marks of the Protestant and Catholic -sects. Next we saw a large church in a walled enclosure, -and two Pères Blancs came out to welcome us, and insist -on our trying their excellent Algerian wine. They were -much interested on hearing that we had come up from -Tanganyika, and asked many questions about the -brethren of their order down south. Hospitably they -accompanied us a short way till we reached the boundaries of -the Church of England mission, whose territory they -would not pass, except on urgent business, to the -Government station.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="noindent pfirst"><span class="small">[#] White trade cloth.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>Kasagama's hill, on the left, is a magnificent situation -for a palace (or fort), dominating as it does the missions -nestling below it, and the Boma on an adjacent hill. -The king received us a day or two later under the escort -of the English missionaries.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The high-road led past the English mission, where -extensive building operations in brick were going on, -down a steep hill and across a primitive and dangerous -bridge, built by the 11th Company of Soudanese, under -the late Colonel Sitwell, to keep them quiet during the -mutiny, and up a steep hill to the fort, where we were -most hospitably received by Mr. S. S. Bagge, one of the -founders of the Uganda Protectorate, who has spent -nearly nine years in the country, having acquired the -pioneering mania in that hot-bed of pioneers, the Western -States of America. Captain J. A. Meldon was in charge -of the troops. English newspapers and books were most -welcome, after being separated from them for many -months. Our own literature consisted of Whitaker, -Shakespeare, and Keats.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Two days after our arrival at Fort Gerry, our boys -began to get troublesome, as they had nothing to do, -and pombe (native beer) was plentiful; and one -evening they raided the milk belonging to the Soudanese -officer, and beat his boys, for which the culprits were -duly admonished. Next day they all declared a desire -to go home again to Ujiji. We were anxious to take -them on to Wadelai, there being no hopes of getting -local porters to go anywhere except to Kampala; and -at length, after much parleying, arranged that thirty -of them should go to Wadelai with me, and the rest to -Kampala with Sharp, to lay in supplies for the Nile -journey, and then the whole lot could return by the -Victoria Nyanza to Mwanza in German territory, and -thence home in safety, </span><em class="italics">via</em><span> Tabora.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Meantime stories of enormous tuskers were dinned into -our ears, and Captain Meldon having very kindly offered -to accompany us, we determined to go and have a -fortnight's elephant-hunting, as a little relaxation after our -arduous march. On inquiry as to licences, we were -horrified to find a £25 licence necessary, which entitled -the payer to kill two elephant only. Permission might -be obtained from the Commissioner of a district to kill -others at £12 each--truly a preposterous regulation, in -view of our subsequent experiences; however, having -come so far, more or less with the objective of -elephant-shooting, we paid up like men, and started off on the -main road to Kampala.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The country, as usual in Toro, consisted of undulating -hills intersected by papyrus swamps, with a few banana -plantations, very sparsely populated, and showing no -signs of game except some old elephant spoor.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The second march brought us to a very likely country, -and the natives said there were many elephant in the -vicinity. Sharp went out, but did not see any, the grass -and thorn-scrub being almost impassable. Thence a four -hours' walk brought us to the top of a small range of -hills, from the crest of which I saw an elephant standing -in the thick cane-brake on the opposite slope. The main -part of the caravan, with Sharp and Meldon, was some -distance in front, as the difficulty of carrying my machila -through the swamps made my progress slow. Praying -that the wind would hold, I was carried as near as the -brake would allow, and after a short walk, in the course -of which I fell into an elephant-pit, found the unsuspecting -old gentleman under a tree, and killed him with a -single .303 bullet in the brain. He was a stupendous -old bull, 11 ft. 6 in. at the shoulder, with a 64-in. foot -(dry), and his teeth, 5 ft. 10 and 6 ft. 2, weighed 86 and -85 lbs. This success filled the others with envy, and -a native coming in during lunch with news of a herd of -forty, not very far off, Meldon and Sharp rushed off, -only to return at sundown hot and tired, having hit -and lost a decent bull, while I had gone out to inspect -an old gentleman who came and waved his ears at me -from a neighbouring hill, but which I spared, not being -satisfied with his ivories.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Leaving a few boys to bring the ivory and one foot, -we trekked early next day to the ridge overlooking the -river, passing fresh spoor and elephant tracks almost -every minute, and, while looking for a likely -camping-ground, saw a small herd of elephant in the valley. -Sharp immediately went in pursuit, and unfortunately -for him the Soudanese officer followed, and by cutting -the line of elephant, gave the leaders the wind, and thus -spoilt an excellent chance. From our camp on the hill -we had a splendid view of ten miles or so of the Msisi -valley and the hills opposite, and all day long, elephant, -singly, in small herds, and, eventually in the afternoon, -in large herds of two hundred or more, perambulated -up and down, giving us the most magnificent chance of -making their acquaintance.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Sharp returned at lunch, hot and miserable, having -shot a cow elephant--the grass being so high that it was -impossible to judge beforehand what he fired at. The -whole of the morning we heard shots from the far side -of the river fired by Waganda or Wanyoro hunters, and -presently, in a great cloud of dust, a herd of at least -a hundred elephant crossed the river and wandered -towards our camp. It was a most impressive sight, as -they swept the long grass down in front of them as flat -as if a steam-roller had passed over it. They stopped -for a time about half a mile below us, blowing water -and dust over their backs, while we tried to pick out the -biggest bull with our glasses. We must have seen a -thousand to fifteen hundred elephant that day, and -heard thirty or forty shots from native guns across the -Msisi.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Next day there wasn't an elephant in sight, but we -could hear the natives banging away up-river, and as -the elephant near camp began to smell we trekked up -the valley. Here the downtrodden grass showed that -the big herd had moved off south.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Having exceeded our time-limit, we decided to return -to Fort Gerry and start for the north. Taking all the -ivory into Fort Gerry for registration, I left Sharp on -the road with a few boys to hunt, intending to make -the necessary arrangements at the station, and then to -send out the boys to him for the march to Kampala; -but the evening of my return was celebrated by a pombe -revel amongst my boys, and when I went down to see -what the noise was about, I was attacked by twenty or -thirty of them with spears, and was obliged to fire my -revolver at the ringleader. This scared them, and the -whole hundred broke out of camp, scattering the -Soudanese guards, who were supposed to keep them in order. -Next day all the boys came in a body and demanded to -be sent home; so, to avoid trouble, we rounded them -by strategy into a cattle-kraal, and put a strong guard -over them; and after giving them posho (cloth to buy -food), and obtaining a guard from Kasagama to see them -out of the country, I packed them off to Katwe. Sharp -arrived next day, having done the fifty miles in two -marches. Ten of our boys were in chain-gang for -behaving badly during our absence, and these and Sharp's -lot I persuaded to go with me to Wadelai, and thence -by high-road to Kampala, and by Victoria Nyanza back -to Tabora and Ujiji.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Out of our fourteen calves two alone had survived, -and we had been obliged to kill two cows, as they could -not travel further. Six cows we exchanged with -Kasagama for a tusk of 138 lbs., and six others I sold for -180 r., giving the other cow and calf to Mr. Bagge. -During our absence elephant-hunting, four of King -Kasagama's cows died, so I rescinded the bargain, and gave -two of my tusks and a present of cloth for the big one, -and handed the surviving cattle over to Mr. Bagge. -Curiously enough, the six I sold to the Soudanese Effendi -were still well, while Mr. Bagge's cow and calf had both -died. Too good food and too much time to eat it, after -a march of two hundred and fifty miles, had evidently -overpowered them.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>At this stage of my journey, Mr. Sharp, to my great -regret, was forced by the ties of urgent business to return -home. The Nile was such an uncertain quantity that -he was unable to risk the possibility of being buried in -the wilds for another two years. He therefore marched -through Toro and Uganda to the Mombasa rail-head, -and took passage to England </span><em class="italics">via</em><span> the Red Sea.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst" id="toro-to-mboga"><span class="bold large">CHAPTER XV.</span></p> -<p class="center pnext"><span class="bold medium">TORO TO MBOGA.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>Leaving Fort Gerry and all its hospitalities on -August 28th, I skirted along the northern spur -of Ruwenzori, passing between the little volcanic lakes -Vijongo, and after three hours' walking, arrived at the -edge of the first escarpment. Here there is a sheer drop -of 1,500 ft. from the undulating table-land of Toro proper -to the scrub-clad terrace about eight miles wide, which -in its turn overlooks the Semliki valley, a further drop -of 500 ft. From the edge of the first escarpment the -view is truly magnificent; to the south looms the mighty -bulk of Ruwenzori, a purple mass, peak piled upon peak, -black-streaked with forest, scored with ravine, and ever -mounting till her castellated crags shoot their gleaming -tips far into the violet heavens. But it is only for a -brief hour at sunset or sunrise: then again the mists -swirl up her thousand gorges, again the storm-cloud -lowers and broods grumbling round her virgin snows as -though jealous of the future--a future of Cook's tours, -funicular railways, personally-conducted ascents (with -a sermon and ginger-beer thrown in). Well! thank God -I have seen her first--seen her as she has stood for -countless ages, wrapped in impenetrable mystery, -undesecrated by human tread since the awful travail that gave -her birth. "The Mountains of the Moon"--the very -name breathes mystery and romance, and fitly have -romance and the myths of the ancients played round -her crest, for is she not part mother of the Nile? -Alas! even as we gaze she fades away, a murky glow lights up -the evening sky, again she starts into bold relief, 'tis -her last farewell! The mists eddy round those frowning -crags, creeping here, drifting there, and the curtain drops, -hiding all but the great black base. Such is Ruwenzori, -when she deigns to show herself; and only when there -is rain in the air is she thus condescending.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Scarcely less striking is the outlook to the north. -Deep shade is already on the terrific slope at our feet, -while the setting sun still lights up the vast basin of -the Semliki and the Albert Lake. We seem to be standing -on the brink of a new world, ourselves in shade cast -by the western spur, and the eye wanders on over sunlit -plain picked out with silver streaks, where in places we -catch a glimpse of the Semliki, and on till the lake lies -gleaming like a sea of quicksilver, and yet on and on, -ever-fading steel-blue to grey, till we can just see the -black outlines of the hills against the blue-green sky, -flecked with the gauzy pink of the after-glow. Then -like a flash all is grey, for we are very near the equator, -and we turn in to "kuku"[#] stew and the luxury of -new potatoes and tomatoes. Those kukus! They are -like Sinbad's old man of the sea, you cannot shake them -off, for they are really indispensable. Their only -resemblance to their English namesake is in name, for -neither are they fine birds nor do they fly; nor, if they -did fly, would they confine their vocal efforts to the -period of their flight, but would, I am sure, still retain -that inimitable faculty of producing at all, and more -especially unseasonable, times, the most startling and -by-no-means-(not-even-by-death)-repressible cries that -have justly made them so beloved of African travellers. -As I have had so many opportunities of observing the -African variety of this world-wide domestic nuisance, -less favoured observers may find a few remarks not out -of place.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="noindent pfirst"><span class="small">[#] </span><em class="italics small">Kuku</em><span class="small">: native word for fowl.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>First, they are essentially gregarious. I have often -seen large flocks collecting on any strange piece of -clothing or blanket, especially if such blanket be placed out -to dry after rain.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Secondly, they are capable of feeling and showing -great affection for man. In fact, the united efforts of -three servants have often failed to prevent them coming -into my tent during the heat of the day, and, just out of -respect, leaving a few superfluous inhabitants behind.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Thirdly, like the nightingale, they sing at night, taking -especial delight in those ditties that have a good, full -chorus.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Fourthly, they never lay fresh eggs--only eggs that -have qualified for the seventh heaven. Presumably, as -the native likes a good, full egg, it is the old tale of the -survival of the fittest, and the hen who can lay a real -Blondin has been spared. If so, this must dislodge all -geological estimates of the date of the creation, as nothing -short of incalculable ages could have brought the breed -to its present state of perfection. For a long time I -considered this elegant bird exempt from the natural -process of decay, as no reasonable period after decease -produced any modification in its adamantine structure, -but a certain incident not unconnected with soup -dispelled this excusable illusion.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>And lastly, but not leastly, this diabolical fowl, although -it can hang head downwards in a temperature of 140° -for many hours without showing any signs of -inconvenience other than a slightly intensified complexion, -and although it greets with contumely blows inflicted -with the various missiles to be found at a moment's -notice in an average tent, yet, should it be left with -natives other than its rightful owner for one short hour, -it is so overcome with modesty that it reverts rapidly -and without perceptible residue into its original invisible -components.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The extent to which the kuku enters into one's very -existence in Africa is, I feel sure, a sufficient excuse for -this digression. In fact, I believe that, were it not for -the counter-irritation produced by the camp goats, I -should have "kuku" on the brain.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Having successfully wrestled with the athletic cause -of this digression, and unsuccessfully with a prehistoric -gun that a neighbouring chief brought me for medical -treatment, and dreamt that a rooster with 10 ft. tusks -was dancing the double shuffle on my chest, I descended -into the valley, and after two hours' walking reached -the Semliki, a fine river, here sixty to seventy yards -wide, with a current of about five miles an hour. When -I had, with the greatest difficulty, wedged myself in a -very long, very unstable, and appallingly leaky piece of -firewood (called by courtesy a canoe), and had with -still greater difficulty dissuaded fifteen gentlemen from -risking the voyage in my company, in the lucid intervals -of the amazement with which I viewed the frantic efforts -of my Charon (for such he was like to prove) to keep the -stick's head up-stream, I gathered from a benevolent -philanthropist on shore that a woman had been taken -that morning by a crocodile from the very spot where -we came to land, and that on no account must I permit -my boys to go to the water's edge, as the crocodiles were -very numerous and very daring. However, suitably -cheered by this information, and in defiance of all such -paltry laws of nature as gravity, we eventually did -succeed in landing safely on the other side; how or why I -cannot say, as only the two ends of the canoe were in -the water, the middle, where I sat, being slightly raised -above the surface. I suppose the whole concern had -warped. Whatever the cause, I did not fancy trusting -my baggage in her, so I sent up the river, and after much -yelling and more delay, another more serviceable concern -was produced. Having fixed on a place for my tent, -I left the boys to attend to the passage of my -belongings, and went out in search of dinner.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The plain, which here is about six miles wide, is -covered with short grass and dotted with clumps of -euphorbia and thorn-bush, and is the home of -countless reedbuck and herds of Uganda kob. During the -rains it is the playground of troops of elephant and of -the few survivors of the teeming herds of buffalo that -formerly roamed over all this country. I had no -difficulty in bringing two bucks to grass, as the country -offered magnificent stalking-ground, and the meat -made a very agreeable change after the everlasting -mutton. The Uganda kob (</span><em class="italics">Cobus Thomasi</em><span>) very closely -resembles the pookoo (</span><em class="italics">Cobus Vardoni</em><span>), though its coat, -which is of a beautiful reddish colour, is less foxy and -not so long in the hair as that of the pookoo. They both -have the regular gait of the waterbuck, that so forcibly -reminds one of our own red deer. But whereas the -pookoo never seems to run in herds of more than twenty -or thirty, I have seen as many as three hundred Thomasi -together. The leading buck of this herd, which I shot, -had horns 20 in. in length.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Here, as elsewhere, I was much impressed by the two -different types of native, the sharp, intelligent, almost -delicate features and the lithe limbs of the aristocrats -(of Galla origin) contrasting very forcibly with the coarse, -squat, ape-like appearance of the rabble. Some of the -lower class have really no ostensible claims to being -human, beyond the ability to produce fire. Covering -even of the most rudimentary description is totally -ignored by both sexes. Leaving the Semliki, we travelled -west to the hills of Mboga, and shortly left the plain -below, rising into a country of miniature cañons, -intersected by numerous ravines full of elephant-grass. Here -we camped and sent out scouts in all directions to -search for njojo (the local name for elephant). I had -just made myself comfortable when news was brought -of elephant to the south, so I set off without delay, only -to find a herd of small cows. On my return to camp -my boys told me that there was an elephant quite close, -and pointed him out, standing under a tree in the middle -of the elephant-grass in the ravine at our feet. As -the sun was very hot, I concluded that he was likely -to stop where he was, and setting a boy on an ant-hill to -watch him, I sat down to lunch. He did stop where -he was till I had finished lunch, and then moved on, -and as it was useless to go into the grass, 15 to 25 -ft. high, without a definite landmark such as the tree -would have proved, I was fain to dodge about, watching -him, when I could get an occasional glimpse, and to -wait for another chance. Several times I lost sight -of him altogether, and then again would see an ear. -At last, as he appeared to be coming near the stream, -which here ran close underneath the bank on which I -was standing, I went down through the thorns and grass -and waited, but in vain. Again I mounted the bank, -but could see no signs of him till I was turning -campwards in despair, when my boy saw the grass move, -and this time quite close to the stream. Down we -scrambled once more and stood in the bed of the stream -listening. Then the crack of a twig and the waving -of the tops of the grass showed that he was coming, -and he glided past a slight gap in the thicket like some -spectre, but I could not get a shot, although within -twenty yards. I never can understand how they -manage to glide through the most tangled jungles almost -without sound unless they are alarmed, when it seems -as if all hell were loosed. I followed quickly down -the stream, the grass now completely hiding him, and -suddenly came on him drinking in a small mud-hole, -at about fifteen yards distance. He gave me a half -side-shot, and I fired at his head, giving him a second -as he swung round. Down he came like an avalanche, -and lay thrashing the reeds with his trunk. Fearing -that he might get up again, I approached to give him -the </span><em class="italics">coup de grâce</em><span>. I was already within six yards, but -still unable to see him, when a cold puff on the back of -my neck gave me warning of a chance in the wind. I -stepped back as he struggled to his feet, and his great -trunk came quivering forward within two yards of my -face. Again the wind steadied, and as I stood -motionless as a rock, he failed to see me, swung round, and -made off. Three shots I poured into him, then waited, -sick at heart, listening to the crash-crash as he went -away, till again I heard that welcome roar of rending -tree and rush. He was down: a long gurgle and a sob, -and all was over. Although a small elephant, he carried -beautiful teeth, 7 ft. 9 in. and 7 ft. (tip broken), and -weighing 72 lbs. and 69 lbs.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>I reached camp just at dusk, and found that Changera, -one of the Mboga chiefs, had come in to see me. His -country lies between Tavara's and Kavalli's, and -stretches from the top of the Congo Semliki watershed -to the Semliju. The following morning I went down -to see how they were cutting out the tusks, and found -that hordes of Balegga had swarmed down from the -hills for the meat. A weird sight it was: stark naked -savages with long greased hair (in some cases hanging -down on their shoulders) were perched on every -available inch of the carcase, hacking away with knives and -spears, yelling, snarling, whooping, wrestling, cursing, -and munching, covered with blood and entrails; the -new arrivals tearing off lumps of meat and swallowing -them raw, the earlier birds defending their worms in the -form of great lumps of fat paunch and other delicacies; -while others were crawling in and out of the intestines -lake so many prairie marmots. Old men, young men, -prehistoric hags, babies, one and all gorging or gorged; -pools of blood, strips of hide, vast bones, blocks of -meat, individuals who had not dined wisely but too -well, lay around in bewildering profusion; and in two -short hours all was finished. Nothing remained but the -gaunt ribs like the skeleton of a shipwreck, and a few -disconsolate-looking vultures perched thereon.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The Balegga live in the hills to the north of Mboga -proper, though many of them are now under Changera, -having fled south from the Belgians. They are good -specimens of the real Central African savage, rather -short, but well-set-up, innocent of clothing as a babe -unborn, and blessed with an inordinate and insatiable -craving for meat, which at that time was, if possible, -intensified by the failure of their crops, owing to the -drought. They wear their hair in long thin plaits, -liberally smeared with grease, which gives them a very -wild appearance, especially when, as I noticed in some -cases, it hangs down over their face. In the intervals -of gorging and hacking, they amused themselves by -smearing the caked blood over their hair and bodies--a -proceeding that gave general satisfaction. I gathered -from them that many had lately come south to Mboga -(which is at present administered from Fort Gerry) to -avoid the persecution of the Belgians, who had killed, -as they said, great numbers both of them and their -neighbouring tribes to the north. They indignantly -denied my soft impeachment of cannibalism, but from -extraneous sources I gathered that any lightly grilled -portion of my anatomy that might happen to wander -round their way would be, so to speak, a "gone coon."</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The neighbouring chief, Tabara by name, apparently -suffering from that troublesome complaint known to -the faculty as "swelled head," amused himself for the -next two days by sending in an intermittent fusillade -of insolence; "it was not his business to come and -see every white man who came into the country," etc., -etc., </span><em class="italics">ad nauseam</em><span>. As I had never sent for him, being -unaware even of the gentleman's existence, and as I -found on inquiry that he was a chief independent of -Kasagama, and owing allegiance to the official at Fort -Gerry only, I concluded that my mubaka[#] provided -by Kasagama was the cause of the trouble, or that he -imagined I was Belgian. I therefore sent a message to -him to the effect that I had no doubt he was a most -admirable individual, but, strange to relate, till the -arrival of his message I had been unaware of his -existence; that my object in coming to the country was -to shoot elephant, and not to interview obscure natives. -The effect was remarkable: the following morning he -turned up with a numerous following, carrying an -umbrella and a very dangerous camp-stool, and presented -me with sundry goats, fowls, and other edibles.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="noindent pfirst"><span class="small">[#] A sort of courier.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>The prevailing type of elephant in these parts differs -so essentially from that of Toro, that I have been forced -to the conclusion that there are two distinct varieties; -a theory in which the natives universally concur.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>When in Toro I saw more than a thousand elephant, -and without exception they carried a thick, heavy -type of tusk, the elephant themselves being unusually -large and solid.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>In Mboga, on the other hand, the prevailing type was -a much smaller elephant, with very long thin tusks. -Two cows shot by Mr. Bagge carried tusks about 4 ft., -and no thicker than the butt-end of a billiard-cue.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The average height of old bulls in Mboga is about -9 ft., while the only two that I shot in Toro were 11 -ft. and upwards, and several others that I had a chance of -observing closely must have been about the same size. -The Indian notion of twice the circumference of the foot -equalling the height does not hold with the African -species; I generally found that it fell short of the height -by about 8 or 10 in. In a subsequent chapter I have -dealt fully with this question.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>A few days later, answering to the call of elephant, I -came on a herd of cows, one of which I shot, hoping to -be able to send the calf into Fort Gerry. The little -fellow stood about 3 ft. high, and stalked towards us -in the most majestic manner, rumbling and grunting -on a 12 ft. scale at least. So confident was his advance -that my boys, guns and all, fled without more ado, -and it was only when I had caught him by the tail that -they ventured back. His strength was amazing, and -it needed the united efforts of myself and four boys to -throw him. However, we eventually managed to tie -his legs together, and laid him under a tree squealing -and shrieking like a steam-engine. Whether in his -vocal efforts he broke a blood-vessel, or whether owing -to the heat of the sun, the sad fact remains that after -I had made all arrangements for his transport to Fort -Gerry he left the earthly trials of pitfalls and 4-bores at -sunset. I was very much disappointed, as I had hoped -that if he had survived he might have been of service -in the future, should a progressive Government, departing -from the usual practice of thinking of the matter -when it is too late, endeavour to make use of the vast -transport treasure that is now roaming the papyrus -swamps of Toro. In the greater part of Africa the -elephant is now a thing of the past; and the rate at which -they have disappeared is appalling. Ten years ago -elephant swarmed in places like B.C.A., where now -you will not find one. Still, there is yet an accessible -stronghold of the pachyderm in Toro, where at the -lowest possible estimate there must be fifteen thousand -elephant. Why is not an effort made, and that at once -(for in a few years' time it will be too late), to secure this -vast means of transport to posterity? What an inestimable -boon to the country, and what an easy solution -of half the labour problem that is already such a thorn in -the side of the southern administrations! I suppose it -is on the same principle on which a paternal Government -sends its servants out to a pestilential spot where the -sole recreation is shooting, and then forbids them that -recreation, while allowing every native who can -command a gas-pipe and a handful of powder to sally forth -and slay a tithe of what he wounds, regardless of sex -and age; or on which the same paternal Government -allows the aforesaid servants to take out and pay for -a licence permitting them to shoot two elephant, and -then confidentially informs them that all ivory shot by -servants of the Protectorate, either within or without -the Protectorate's dominions, is the property of the -Government; however (note the wild, unreasoning -generosity), servants returning home may, with the -permission of the Commissioner, be allowed to take a -pair of tusks as a trophy. Upon what possible theory -this preposterous claim is based I fail to conceive, unless -the Government assumes that the leisure of their servants -is included in their salary, in which case they may claim -the pictures of an amateur artist who may be in their -service, or his letters home, or anything else equally -reasonable. It is the spirit of the thing that is so -pitiable, and it seems so unnecessary, for nobody doubts -but that the Exchequer can manage to stagger along -somehow, even though deprived of the support that -the miserable dozen tusks or so would afford; and, -after all, the right to shoot and keep a couple of elephant -is not an extravagant recompense for two years' isolation -in a wilderness devoid of recreation.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>I then moved my camp some miles to the west, on a -hill overlooking a large patch of very dense elephant-grass.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The next morning I went south to a deep gorge filled -with dense forest, where some elephant were reported. -We descended a steep grass slope into the gorge itself, -which was cut up in all directions by elephant and -buffalo spoor. Suddenly, with much puffing, pawing, -and snorting, some buffalo rushed past at about forty -yards, at the same time starting some elephant, which -we heard crashing up the slope. Leaving the buffalo -to puff and snort, we struck the elephant spoor and -cautiously approached to where we could hear them -grunting and rumbling. By stooping low it was -possible to follow the path with comparative ease, but -the bush was so thick that we could not see two yards -ahead. Having approached within ten yards, I stood, -hoping that some movement would show me their -exact whereabouts; but though they quickly recovered -from their fright and started feeding, I could see nothing -but the occasional waving of the leaves above where -they were standing. After a quarter of an hour of -this amusement, during which I was balancing myself -on a slippery bank of clay, I descended again, and coming -dead up-wind succeeded in getting within two yards of -one. A thick tangle of lianas alone separated us, and -although I could hear him breathing, and felt sure he -must hear my heart thumping, I could see nothing. I -know nothing in the world more exciting than hunting -elephant in this description of country. One approaches -so close, and yet can see nothing; the only thing to do -is to wait, in hopes of some movement bringing them -into view. Then they make such extraordinary noises, -and at every crash of a branch torn down one thinks -they are stampeding or coming towards one. Again, -the wind is so shifty in cover, and one puff will set them -all off, very possibly in the least desirable direction. A -dropping shot is almost out of the question, and when -wounded they have a nasty knack of looking to see -who did it; a whole regiment of lions cannot produce -the same moral effect as one elephant when he cocks -his ears, draws himself up to his full height, and looks -at you, letting off at the same time a blood-curdling -scream, while in all probability others invisible are -stampeding on all sides with the din of an earthquake. -They are so vast (one I measured was actually 15 ft. from -edge of ear to edge of ear) that they seem to block -out the whole horizon; one seems to shrivel, and the -very gun to dwindle into a pea-shooter; try as I will, -I can never quite stomach it, and always feel inclined -to throw down my rifle and run till I drop.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>At last the elephant, having an idea that something -was amiss, moved, and showing his head, received a -mate to that idea in the shape of a .303 bullet. Down -the bank he rushed, taking the bark off one side of a -tree, while I stepped round the other. I got another -shot home as he passed, and head over heels he went -like a bolting rabbit. Trees, bush, blocks of earth, -vanished like chaff, till a mighty old veteran trunk -pulled him up short about fifty yards below. There -he lay, his legs in the air, screaming and vainly -struggling to regain his feet, a path like the sea-wall at -Brighton leading down to him. A few more shots -finished him.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The next day I was again in this gorge, and after -vainly floundering about on the spoor of a small -elephant, and complimenting in suitable terms a swarm -of biting ants which eventually left me indistinguishable -from a splash of pickled cabbage, I saw a fine old -tusker grazing in the short grass on the top of the further -bank. To cross was a matter of minutes, as I knew -that at any moment he might descend into the gorge, -and on emerging I saw him still in the same place. -Walking up quite close, I dropped the poor old brute -with one shot. He had very long teeth for their weight, -8 ft. 4 in. (tip slightly broken), and 7 ft. 4 in. (tip broken), -and weighing 76 and 73 lbs. respectively. Standing on -his ribs--that is, about 6 ft. from the ground--I saw some -more grazing on the other side of a branch gully, so I -set off in pursuit; but some of the half-starved natives, -who would follow me about the country, and had been -lurking behind some bushes, spoilt my chance of a -shot by darting out up-wind of the herd, presumably -to catch any elephant that might drop.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>For several days matters were very quiet, and though -I ranged far and wide, one day following buffalo spoor -for several hours, I saw nothing; till again I was -wakened by the welcome cry of "njojo," and snatching -a hasty breakfast, set off, this time backed by the -double 10-bore paradox which had been sent out after -me, and had arrived the previous day; and very -thankful I felt for its support. My double 4-bore had gone -home with Sharp, who had left his paradox in its -stead as the more useful all-round gun. And though I -had my double .500 magnum, the firm that provided -my cartridges had sent out all expanding bullets, -despite the fact of my having ordered half with solids; -just to humour me, however, they labelled the packets -"solid bullets," so that I never found out till north -of Tanganyika. Two other firms distinguished -themselves in a similar manner, one by shipping my double -.303 in a case, without so much as a cleaning-rod, much -less a screwdriver or spare pin, and the other by -providing me at the trifling cost of 2s. 6d. each with damaged -cartridge-cases for my 4-bore; the majority of them -were badly split at the rim, sufficiently split to fill -rapidly when held in water, and though they had been -carefully repolished, on close inspection the old firing -marks were quite obvious. The consequent result was -that the first shot I fired I was knocked over a fallen -tree two yards behind me.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Our native took us across the marsh lying below -the camp by a path that in its various intricacies led -into a pit of water 20 ft. deep, into which they fondly -hoped some elephant would walk; then through -numerous villages where the banana-groves, owing to the -depredations of elephant, looked more like street -barricades, till we eventually emerged from the odoriferous -fog of drying elephant meat on to the ridge where I -had last camped. He then told us that two elephant -had come into the bananas during the night and had -retired up the gorge. Skirting along the edge of the -plateau, we soon saw them in the elephant-grass below, -and descending with difficulty through the tangled mat -of grass, I took up my position behind a tree and waited, -hoping that when they moved I might have a favourable -chance. One was standing under a small tree about -four hundred yards away; and the other, at a distance -of two hundred yards, was up to his belly in mud, his -stern alone showing round a tuft of grass. Previous -experience had taught me that it was useless to go down -into the grass, so I had perforce to stay where I was -and possess my soul in patience. After some time the -one under the tree moved, and in a leisurely manner -strolled up to his companion. As he emerged from the -long grass round the mud-hole I had one glimpse of -his tusks, and, quite satisfied, I took the only chance -I was likely to obtain, and fired a half-side head shot. -He drew himself up into a bunch of indignant protest, -as much as to say, "Who the devil did that?" But -a second shot failing to elucidate the matter, he swung -round and crashed away across the gully, while -number two bolted straight ahead. I rained shot into him -while he swerved round and followed in the wake of -his companion. Then I dashed along the side of -the slope, stumbling, tripping, rolling, and diving over -grass that I could not force my way through, till a -sudden drop of 10 ft. landed me face first on the -bed of a stream, invisible above through the grass, -but painfully tangible below. Fortunately my rifle -did not suffer proportionately, and scrambling out I -reached a small ridge from which I could see my -elephant standing about three hundred yards off. Again -I fusilladed him till out of range, and then followed, -falling twice to the elephant's once. He was nearly -spent, but managed to reach some extra long grass, -where I lost sight of him for some time, till at length -he crawled out into the shade of a tree under the -opposite bank. The gorge was narrow at this point, so -that he was not more than one hundred yards off when -I reopened the bombardment. For a long time he -took the phut-phut of the bullets without showing the -slightest emotion. Then suddenly over he went like a -tree under the axe. He struggled to his feet once more, -only to fall for the last time under the continued hail. -Cutting across the dip, I climbed on to the bank about -twenty yards above him; but the grass was so dense -that I could not see him, although considerably above -the level of the tangle where he was lying. His great -sobs told me that all was over, and anxious to put him -out of his misery, I went down, having to approach -within two yards before I could see him, and finished -him off with the 10-bore, his head being invisible. To -my amazement he had only one tusk, 7 ft. 9 in., and -98 lbs.; and as I was sure that I had seen two tusks, -I came to the conclusion that this must be number -two, and that number one had dropped at the same -time that I did. So following back on the spoor, I -came on the other elephant, lying four hundred yards -from where I had first hit him, but, lo and behold! he -also had only one tusk, 7 ft. 7 in., and 86 lbs. So -certain was I of having seen two tusks that I followed -his spoor back, thinking that possibly there might have -been a third hidden by the grass, but it was not so, -and to this day I believe he took the other tusk off -and threw it away, as a sort of Jonah! On arriving -at camp I found that letters and tomatoes had arrived -from Toro. Our pagasi had attempted their old games -about three days' journey south of the Albert Edward -and had been attacked with the loss of twenty men, -amongst them Sulimani, the root of all the disturbances. -His successor in office, who, like other gentlemen of -his kidney, combined loudness of talk in times of peace -with extraordinary fleetness of foot in times of danger, -was the first to bring the news to Toro.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst" id="semliki-valley-and-kavalli-s-country"><span class="bold large">CHAPTER XVI.</span></p> -<p class="center pnext"><span class="bold medium">SEMLIKI VALLEY AND KAVALLI'S COUNTRY.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>Leaving this country with regret, I descended into -the valley once more and marched north, crossing -the Semliki to avoid the swamps mentioned by Colonel -Lugard at the westerly bend of the river, and recrossed -about six miles from where the river enters the lake. -For some distance the mournful monotony of aloe and -euphorbia is broken by groves of the stately borassus -palm. The few miserable Wanyoro, who are sparsely -scattered over the plain, were absolutely destitute. -The prolonged drought had dried up the maize and -millet, and the beans, which form their main food -supply, were finished, so that three hippo that I killed -for them raised me to a giddy pinnacle of fame; my -tent became, for the time being, a second Lourdes, -droves of pilgrims pouring in to pay homage to my .303. -Their astonishment, when I showed them the size of the -bullet and how the magazine worked, was most -ludicrous. They had heard how it would drop a huge -elephant without a wriggle of his trunk, and they had -heard the three shots and could see the three hippo -tied to the bank, and had imagined, I suppose, that -it was a sort of 7-pounder; so that when they held a -cartridge with its pencil-like bullet in their hand, and -the truth gradually dawned on them, they would drop -it like a hot potato. Some, when I started the mechanism, -fairly took to their heels. A native's estimate of -a gun varies proportionately with the size of the bore, -and his idea of killing range is ten yards, or, if the -sportsman is something of a marksman, perhaps twenty. I -was fortunate in bringing off several shots at about four -hundred to five hundred yards at nsunu,[#] and natives, -having no unit of distance, consider everything from -two hundred yards to about five miles as the same -thing. I have several times heard my gun-bearer, -Makanjira, who is a great admirer of the gun, solemnly -explaining to an open-mouthed audience how he had -seen me kill beasts at such a distance, pointing to a -hill some three or four miles away. Consequently, its -powers were magnified to the most prodigious -proportions, and on the march excited natives would point to -mere specks on the horizon, inform me they were buck, -and expect me to kill them on the instant; they never -gave me any of the credit--it was the gun, the -wonderful gun, and I only obtained a reflected glory as its -possessor. After crossing the river, I found the natives -very nervous and suspicious, and though I visited the -village near which I camped, and induced the chief to -come to the river-bank to see one of the hippo, which -I told him he might have, the following morning, on -sending for a guide, I found that they had "shot the -moon," carrying off their half-dozen miserable goats, -and fled into the bush.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="noindent pfirst"><span class="small">[#] Nsunu: </span><em class="italics small">Cobus Thomasi</em><span class="small">.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>As the guide promised me by the chief on the other -side was not forthcoming, and not wishing to delay any -longer, as the sun was terrible on these arid plains, -I started without one, and, after two hours' walking, -found that I had penetrated well into the marshes at -the south end of the lake. In trying to skirt round the -arm of water and sudd that stretches to the south, we -soon found ourselves in an apparently boundless sea -of one of Nature's truly African inventions, a tall grass, -8 to 10 ft. high, the roots forming a hopeless tangle of -matted whipcord reaching 2 ft. from the ground, and -effectually hiding the honeycomb of old hippo and -elephant-holes 2 ft. deep below, while the stems and -leaves are covered with myriads of invisible spines, -which detach themselves in one's skin and clothes, and -set up the most intense irritation.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>After floundering through this sea of misery for a -couple of hours, we were extricated by the promised -guide, who had followed on our tracks, and eventually -arrived at a miserable patch of huts; we came so -unexpectedly on the people that they had not time to -fly, and a few explanations soon put them at their ease. -I found that they were Wanyabuga, the same people who -were so friendly to Lugard and belonged to Katonzi, -a nominal vassal of Kasagama's, and who is now the -sole survivor of Lugard's three blood brothers, Katonzi, -Kavalli, and Mugenzi. They do not cultivate, but -depend on the Balegga and Wakoba for grain, which they -barter for fish and salt. They are quite distinct in -appearance from the surrounding tribes. The type is a -tall (5 ft. 8 in.), large-limbed, square-shouldered negro, -bull-necked, bullet-headed, with a very low forehead -and coarse features; colour very dark; but they have -a jolly expression, and were some of the pleasantest -natives I ever dealt with. It was curious to see even -amongst these people, who live a life apart from their -surroundings, the occasional delicate features, gazelle-like -eyes, light colour, lithe limbs, and genteel nonchalance -of the Galla influence.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>At the south end of the Albert Edward, where the -Rutchuru flows into the lake, forming similar marshes -to those of the Semliki, there is a people living exactly -the same life. Unfortunately, owing to their extreme -shyness, I could find out very little about them, but -from their mode of life, methods of fishing, and general -appearance, I have no doubt that they are closely -allied; probably survivors of former inhabitants who -have found a last refuge in these intricate waterways -and impenetrable marshes. The similarity in the names -of these two peoples is significant.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>It is a strange amphibious existence in these simmering -wastes of weed and water, the stillness of which is -only broken by the occasional blow of a hippo, the splash -of a fish or crocodile, the wild cry of the numerous -flights of wild-fowl, and the everlasting plaint of the -fish-eagle. A perpetual mirage hovering over the scene -adds to the general mystery; groups of huts suddenly -appear where all was shimmering light, and as -suddenly vanish; a canoe with its two upright punters -glides past apparently in the sky, a goose suddenly -assumes the proportions of an elephant, and an elephant -evolves out of what one took to be a goose; and thus -the scene is ever changing, till the grey of evening and -the crisp light of the rising sun bring out in strong relief -the placid sheets of water, the long brown bands of -weeds, the tiny islands with their little huts perched -among the waving reeds, the thin strips of sand with -their occasional waddling hippo, the little black canoes -slowly gliding in and out amongst the weed-beds and -tufts of grass, and the continual flight of flocks of white -ibis.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>I never tired of sitting on the shore and watching -the long string of little black canoes slowly wending -their way towards me, bringing in fish and salt, to -trade with the group of Balegga who were waiting with -loads of beans and millet flour.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The small stretch of country lying between the Semliki, -the Albert Lake, and the hills is called Kitwakimbi, -and is distinct from Bukande, which begins at the foot -of the hills and reaches back to the watershed.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>My Wanyabuga friends provided me with two guides, -who, after wasting two hours in visiting obscure villages, -all of which were deserted, and answering my protests -at our zigzag route by ambiguous allusions to marshes, -eventually landed me within four hundred yards of -where I had started, and suggested that I should camp. -Having with difficulty persuaded them that I was -annoyed, which they evidently considered unreasonable on -my part, they smilingly explained that it was far from -their homes, and they had hoped to find me other guides. -However, vague allusions to the presence of a "kiboko"[#] -convinced them of the inexpediency, not to say positive -danger, of further nonsense, and they gaily proceeded on -their way, chortling hugely at the success of what they -thought a very merry prank. They led me to a -deserted village opposite Kasenyi, a small island about a -mile from the mainland, and the present headquarters -of Katonzi. The Wanyabuga-Balegga market was in -full swing, but vanished like mist at my sudden -appearance, and it was only by going down to the beach -stripped to the waist, and a happy allusion to brothership -with "Kapelli," that I induced them to bring their -canoes to the shore again. "Kapelli" is the native -name of that gallant officer Colonel Lugard, and to -have left a name in Africa that opens all doors and all -hearts is the finest monument to his exploits that a -man can have. They flocked in to see me under Tunja, -Katonzi's eldest son, who brought several loads of food, -and informed me that Katonzi had left two days before -for Toro. They asked all kinds of questions about -"Kapelli" and Mr. Grant, who was with Lugard in his -expedition to release the Soudanese, and wanted to -know why he had never come back, and had the -English deserted their country after promising to protect -them? I answered all their questions to the best of -my ability, and when I showed them Lugard's book and -the photograph of Grant, which, to my surprise, they -immediately recognized, their delight knew no bounds.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="noindent pfirst"><span class="small">[#] </span><em class="italics small">Kiboko</em><span class="small">: whip made of hippo hide.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>The mosquitoes here defy description; even at mid-day -I had to eat my food walking about, and my evening -and morning toilet, combined as it was with a Dan -Lenoesque extravaganza, if performed on the Empire -stage would assuredly have brought down the house. -I crawled into my mosquito-net with the greatest -caution, disposed all my weighty belongings, such as boots -and cartridge-bags, in a circle round my bed to keep -down the edges of the net, exhausted all my candle-ends -in exploding the odd hundred or two that had crawled -in with me, and was quickly lulled to sleep by the dismal -drone of myriads, happy in the knowledge that they -were outside; sleep, gentle sleep, during which I evolved -in one short hour from my own insignificant self through -the alarming stages of Daniel in the lion's den, and a -cold bread poultice, to the stern reality that they were -inside; and they were, hundred and hundreds of them. -In vain I searched for some hole or possible inlet, and -eventually had to resign myself to the inevitable, buoyed -up by the meagre consolation that I had discovered that, -like the light of the glow-worm, the mosquito is -possessed of the properties of the Röntgen rays.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Early the next morning Tunja came to tell me that -Katonzi was coming back, and at midday he arrived in -person. He is a dismal old nigger, and though somewhat -rapacious, not a bad fellow. His first request was -to see the wonderful book, and then how I struck a -match, an accomplishment that tickled him immensely. -He then naïvely asked me to give him my guns, saying -that Lugard had given them two guns, but that the -Belgians had taken them away. I asked him why all -the people were so frightened, and where they had all -gone; whereupon he proceeded to recount the same -tales of misery and oppression that I had heard the day -before, from which I gathered that a Congo Free State -official rejoicing in the name of "Billygee" had -suddenly swooped down on the country a year ago, and -after shooting down numbers of the natives had -returned west, carrying off forty young women, numerous -children, and all the cattle and goats, and putting a -finishing touch to the proceedings by a grand -pyrotechnic display, during which they bound the old women, -threw them into the huts, and then fired the roofs. -Several absolutely independent witnesses informed me -that this had been done actually in the presence of -Billygee and the gentlemen who accompanied him. Katonzi's -two sons, Tunja and Kutaru, were bound and taken -away, but released after two months. Kavalli's eldest -son is now in their hands, while a younger one escaped -to the Balegga. As I have mentioned before, when in -Mboga the Balegga told me similar tales; here I was -repeatedly given accounts that tallied in all essentials, -and further north the Wakoba made the same piteous -complaints; and I saw myself that a country apparently -well populated and responsive to just treatment in -Lugard's time (and that under very trying conditions, -owing to the numbers of destitute aliens in the country--to -wit, the Soudanese) is now practically a howling -wilderness; the scattered inhabitants, terrified even of -one another, and living almost without cultivation in -the marshes, thickets, and reeds, madly flee even from -their own shadows. Chaos--hopeless, abysmal chaos--from -Mweru to the Nile; in the south, tales of cruelty -of undoubted veracity, but which I could not repeat -without actual investigation on the spot; on Tanganyika, -absolute impotence, revolted Askaris ranging at -their own sweet will, while the white men are throwing -their ivory and cartridges into the lake, and cutting -down their bananas for fear the rebels should take them; -on Kivu, a hideous wave of cannibalism raging unchecked -through the land, while in the north the very white -men who should be keeping peace where chaos now -reigns supreme, are spending thousands in making of -peace a chaos of their own. I have no hesitation in -condemning the whole State as a vampire growth, -intended to suck the country dry, and to provide a happy -hunting-ground for a pack of unprincipled outcasts and -untutored scoundrels. The few sound men in the -country are powerless to stem the tide of oppression.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The departure of my mubaka provided by King -Kasagama had taken a great load off my mind; he was too -heavy a swell for me to keep pace with, dressed in white -breeks, yellow putties, red fez, and three fancy cloths, -to say nothing of a red and yellow belt; and his terrible -anxiety lest he should miss a chance of putting up a -large white umbrella with a green lining was so infectious -that finally I found myself watching the clouds with one -eye and the mubaka with the other, knowing that at -the first ray of sunshine he would emerge from his hut -and perform for my edification. In the cloudy intervals -he devoured such masses of solid food that even with -my experience of native capacity I became quite alarmed, -and between the struttings and bursting-point tests, he -had very little time to devote to my affairs, so that I -was very glad to see the last of him.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Katonzi, after relating his own troubles, and thinking, -I suppose, that it was my turn to have a few, proceeded -to paint the most gruesome pictures of what was in -front. With tears in his eyes he begged me to turn -back, saying that if I died the white men would blame -him; he informed me that all was wilderness beyond--no -food, no paths, all the people dead. Putting his -hand to his head, he explained how they had all just -done so, lain down and expired.[#] Pressed as to the -reason of this general collapse, he eagerly shook his -head and murmured "Muungu" (Kismet). Though -summing up the majority of these perils as "nigger -gibberish," I was rather alarmed at the sudden death -business, thinking that perhaps it was smallpox or the -Bombay plague; but this, like the rest, was simply -imagination. It is strange how natives get these ideas -into their heads. I do not think it was gratuitous lying, -as all his people, as far as I could see without any -other reason than belief in the sudden death, were afraid -even to hunt in the direction indicated; and he -certainly had nothing to gain by stopping me from going -forward, since he had no interest in the country. -However, I thought it advisable to buy several days' -provisions, and to do this it was necessary to draw the -Balegga from the hills; all my overtures had failed so -far, and I saw that the only way to start was to lay -ground-bait for them by killing elephant or buffalo. -With this object in view I sallied forth with a guide -who was to take me to the elephant country. He -wandered about for two or three hours in country that an -elephant would not look at through a telescope, and -whenever I said that I wanted elephant, he nodded his -head and said, "Oh yes, elephant." Then suddenly, as -if a bright idea had struck him, he said, "Oh yes, -</span><em class="italics">elephant</em><span>!" and promptly walked back through camp -to a narrow spit jutting out into the lake and about -a quarter of a mile distant. As I could see water on -both sides and short grass in front, I thought he meant -hippo, or was mad, inclining to the latter belief; but -no, he was quite confident, and stalked along muttering -to himself, "Yes, elephant! Yes, elephant!" (as much -as to say, "Who would have thought it?"); and sure -enough there were nine elephant in the reeds in the lake -at the end of the spit. The place was a mass of vegetation -and honeycombed with elephant-holes. I dropped -one with a single shot.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="noindent pfirst"><span class="small">[#] I have since realized that he was referring -to the sleeping sickness -which entered this district at that time.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>As I had expected, after a day of very hot sun, the -odour was too tempting, and the Balegga swarmed down -from the hills and brought me what food I wanted. I -went for a stroll in the evening, and came on a small -herd of buffalo; they were very small compared with -the South African species, and amongst them were three -light brown ones, a bull, cow, and three-parts-grown -calf. They were very beautiful animals, with a black ridge -of hair running along the neck and the top of the -shoulders. I shot the bull, and as my pagasi had as much -as they could carry, I told the natives to cure the hide -and send it with the head into Toro, so I hope to be -able to have it described. When I first saw them I -thought they were eland, and it was with the greatest -surprise that I found they had a buffalo's head attached. -The small one was as light in colour as a reedbuck, -and the other two a similar colour round the rump and -the belly.[#] I could gather no information from the -natives as to whether they had seen others; all they -knew was that the buffalo was an evil beast, had once -been very numerous, but was now finished.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="noindent pfirst"><span class="small">[#] I have since found, on reference to the British Museum, that they -were the Congo buffalo. This proves that their distribution is further -East than was imagined. The fact that they were running in the same -herd as the black Eastern variety is of considerable scientific interest.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst" id="albert-lake-and-upper-nile-to-wadelai"><span class="bold large">CHAPTER XVII.</span></p> -<p class="center pnext"><span class="bold medium">ALBERT LAKE AND UPPER NILE TO WADELAI.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>An hour's walk into the valley of death brought us -to a cluster of villages with a large population, -which was in a state of utter destitution. The people, -who were very nervous at first, eventually gathered -round in numbers with the same tale of rapine and -murder, and the chief gave me a guide to take me to -the foot of the hills. Another hour brought us to Nsabe, -which, though generally depicted on maps in large -letters, consists of about five dirty little muck-heaps, -only recognizable as human habitations by the filthy -smell that emanated from them. All the inhabitants -fled, leaving their spears, bows, and beer in their hurry, -and no amount of shouting and yelling would induce -them to return. Our guide promptly made a bundle -of the spears and other movables, with a view to -appropriation, which when complete I placed against a tree, -accompanying the movement by a vigorous application -of my boot to the toughest portion of his anatomy. -Incorrigible, bullying, thieving curs, one is often tempted -to think that the Boer method of treating natives is, -after all, the only one they deserve. Their Mark Tapleyism -is their sole redeeming feature, and that is attributable -to the incapacity of their intellect to hold anything -but the impression of the moment. Although of the -same tribe and close neighbours, I expect he would have -thoroughly enjoyed seeing me burn and loot the place; -it is the same everywhere--a guide amongst his own -people is a worse thief even than a Manyema porter. -He then took us by a devious route to the shore of the -lake, and seemed greatly astonished to find that the -village he had mentioned did not exist; nor had it left -any trace behind. I could see by the way he was -behaving that he intended to bolt, and knowing that -without a native of the country there was very little -chance of inducing the people, in their frightened state, -to remain in their villages, I kept a close eye on him. -As I expected, when I sat down on the shore to wait -for the boys to close up, he began edging off towards the -jungle; but when he looked round to see if it was all -clear, he found himself covered by my .303. I had him -brought back, and explained to him that his chief had -sent him to show the way to the foot of the hills, that he -had led me into the wilderness and could now lead me -out, the two alternatives being villages, another guide, -and a present, or a race with a .303 bullet. He chose -the former, and seeing that fooling was a glut in the -market, promptly took us to a village of the Wakoba -called Kahoma, and in Kahuma's country. Here all -the people fled, but he followed, and persuaded them to -bring food to trade. They, too, had been raided, and -had lost two women and two children captured. They -could not tell me how many white men or Askaris there -were, as they had not waited to see. The majority of -them are fine, well-made men, and intensely black. -One in particular took my fancy. He was a tremendous -swell, with anything from 15 to 20 lbs. of red clay on -his head, an enormous ivory bracelet, and multitudes of -iron rings. The Wakoba live all along the lake-shore -and in the fringe of the hills, and, curiously enough, their -villages are mixed indiscriminately with those of the -Balegga, with whom they seem to be on the best of -terms, although the two peoples are quite distinct, the -Balegga being real out-and-out bestial little savages, -while the Wakoba are much above the Central African -average of intelligence, with quite a wide knowledge of -local affairs. They are both in a state of parallel -expansion, the Balegga working to the north into the -Lendu country, and the Wakoba in the opposite -direction encroaching on the Wanyabuga.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Two miles north of Kahoma the hills come down to -the water's edge, leaving only a narrow shingly beach, -and thenceforward our progress became painfully slow; -at intervals the headlands jut out into the water, and -the work of transporting the loads round these -obstructions with only two or three small and very -unstable canoes was one of considerable difficulty, even -the latitude of Doctor Johnson's dictionary proving -insufficient on occasions; scores of little streams come -tumbling down into the lake, each one forming a small -delta, on many of which there are Wakoba villages with -a few banana palms, and signs of scratching on the -hillside, where I presume something was intended to -grow, but had turned dizzy and given up the attempt. -After Kahanama's, which is in Kahuma's sphere, Mpigwa -is the big man, and I passed through many of his -villages, some of the largest being Kabora, Zingi (?), Bordo, -Nsessi, and Kiboko. Most of the scenery is very fine, -the little white cascades gleaming in the shadow of -immense trees, many of which are covered with scarlet -and yellow blossoms, and in the midst of luxuriant -tangles of vegetation the great gaunt slabs of slimy -rock deep-set in their snow-white bed of sand, over -which the little waves come tumbling in, gurgling and -splashing round their feet and moaning and sobbing into -a thousand miniature caves; while great apes and little -brown-eyed monkeys drop from branch to branch and -sit leering and gibbering at us as we paddle past.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The continual wetting and rock-climbing had the most -disastrous effect on my already attenuated wardrobe, -and for two or three days I was compelled to disport -myself clad in a simple shirt, which, thanks to a classical -education and consequent ignorance of the art of -washing, had contracted to the modest and insufficient -dimensions of a chest-preserver, while assuming the durable -but inappropriate consistency of a piece of oil-cloth. -The roseate hues of early dawn "weren't in it" with my -nether limbs after the first day's exposure to a pitiless -sun, and I became a sort of perambulating three-tiered -Neapolitan ice, coffee, vanilla and raspberry, a -phenomenon that greatly astonished a savage who surprised -me in my bath, and who immediately fetched all his -kith and kin to see; on the second day, however, the -alarming desertion of a third of my epidermis so pained -me mentally and physically, that after a great effort I -produced a double-barrelled garment that in the absence -of Poole-bred critics served its turn.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Of the various arts and crafts that one is called upon -to undertake in Africa, such as cooking, shoe-mending, -washer-womaning, doctoring, butchering, taxiderming, -armoury work, carpentering, etc., </span><em class="italics">ad infinitum</em><span>, I think -perhaps tailoring is the most trying; the cotton will </span><em class="italics">not</em><span> -go into the eye of the needle, and the needle </span><em class="italics">will</em><span> go into -one's fingers, and then when you think it is all over, you -find you have sewn the back of your shirt to the front, -or accomplished something equally unexpected and -equally difficult to undo.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>At Nsessi, two miles south of Kiboko, there is a superb -waterfall; it has a drop of about 500 ft., and is divided -into three stages, all at a different angle to one another, -falling 100 ft., then swirling round at an angle, plunging -into the next pool, and then a last long slide to the level -of the lake. Stupendous silver-trunked trees, with -foliage the colour of the ilex and brilliant splashes of scarlet -bloom, crowd round on either side of the gorge -wherever the wild rocks afford a footing; above towers a -pointed peak showing bright above the dense gloom of -the gorge, and a white stripe of sand fringes the little -village, nestling in its banana grove, at the base.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>These natives lead a curious existence, shut in between -precipitous hills and the lake, their sole means of -communication with one another being their leaky little -10 ft. dug-outs. They are wonderfully clever at handling them, -and perform the extraordinary feat of crossing the lake, -dodging in and out between the waves in the most -marvellous manner. As a means of transport they are not -to be recommended; the shape of a cross-section being -that of an egg with its top off, one slides in with -comparative ease like a pickle into a pickle-jar: once in, as -with the pickle, extrication is a matter of time and -patience. It needs one of Lear's Jumblies to feel -thoroughly at home, as they leak like a sieve, and only -perpetual bailing will keep them afloat.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The first day, in the sweet innocence of youth, I set off -to round a headland with my guns and a tin box -containing my indispensables on board, fearing to trust them -to a native. All went smoothly at first, till I had arrived -well off the rocks with a slight swell on and no landing-place -near, and then she began slowly to heel over, while -water seemed to be rushing in through the wood itself. -After prodigious efforts I succeeded in running into the -rocks, the water being then within an inch of the -gunwale. I saved my guns and box, but smashed the canoe, -and after that turned passenger. It looks so easy when -they come dancing along, each with a native kneeling -in the stern and plying a huge curved-bladed paddle; -but it is a very different thing when one is wedged in -oneself; physically incapable of squatting in a kneeling -posture, as a native does, one finds bailing out an -impossibility; the whole of the bottom of the canoe seems -to be covered with boots, and the incurved edges catch -the wooden bailing-dish and jerk the contents into -one's lap.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Although the lake teems with fish, many of large size, -the Wakoba make no attempt to catch them, trusting to -the occasional chance of purchasing from the natives on -the other shore or from Kasenyi.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>One day I shot a baboon at the natives' request, a -performance, by the way, that I shall not repeat, nor -would I recommend it to any one but the most hardened -villain. A frantic scramble took place for the flesh, -and when I asked them what it tasted like, they "smole -a smile." Amongst the countless troops of monkeys that -are for ever coughing and dancing amongst the rocks and -trees, I saw a small family of very beautiful little fellows -with bright fox-red fringes down their sides, but I could -not bring myself to shoot at them after seeing that -unfortunate baboon, although I have never seen them -described, or elsewhere in Africa.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>At Viboko I was compelled to wait, the shore in front -being impracticable and the heights behind unscaleable, -till Mswa sent down the canoes, which I had requested -by numerous envoys. My boys were badly in need of -a rest, the work having been very trying since -Kahanama's, and the fever from which I was suffering made -it equally acceptable to me. In the afternoon two natives -arrived, saying that a muzungu[#] was coming down to -meet me with ten canoes. After inquiries as to what -kind of Askaris he had, etc., etc., I gathered that it -must be a Belgian official, so killed the fatted calf in -the guise of a skinny sheep and sundry osseous frames -masquerading as dorkings, and then plunged for the -second time into the turgid flow of Zola's </span><em class="italics">Rome</em><span>, to cleanse -my French of probable Swahili trespassers. I even -exhumed a tie, and having produced a menu that exhausted -all the possible combinations and permutations of an -African larder, awaited anxiously his arrival, picturing -to myself the joys of a little talkee-talkee once more. A -stiff southerly breeze evidently was delaying them, and -it was not till after dark that we heard the wild -canoe-song of the flotilla, which had rounded the point and -caught sight of our camp-fires. Giving a last twirl to -my moustache and a nautical hitch to the Poolesque -garment aforesaid, and composing my features to the -iron-clad smirk indispensable to such occasions, I advanced -to do the honours, and grasped the hand of a dirty, -greasy little negro clad in, or rather smeared over with, -a prehistoric piece of cloth! Here was my muzungu! here -my gallant Belgian staggering under the gold braid -of a hat of that peculiarly unbecoming shape affected by -French guards and German tourists, and majestically -trailing the orthodox 30-franc sword! Inquiries elicited -the fact that the parasitic relic of Manchester above -mentioned established a valid claim to the title of muzungu -in these parts. However, he had brought the canoes, -so I readily forgave him, and next day we arrived at the -old Soudanese station, Mswa. Mswa is the name of the -chief, who is a vassal of Tukenda, and Mahagi is the -name of the country itself. He is an intelligent old -native, and remembered seeing that ubiquitous officer, -Bt.-Major Vandeleur, D.S.O., when he crossed from -Kibero, and was delighted at the photograph which -forms the frontispiece to his book entitled </span><em class="italics">Campaigns on -the Nile and Niger</em><span>. Here let me recommend travellers -to take out photographs of men who have gone before -them; the effect is wonderful on those natives who can -grasp the idea, though, of course, to many natives a -picture is merely a piece of paper. It convinces those who -can understand it that you are speaking the truth--a -possibility so utterly foreign to the native mind. After -exchanging presents he retired, promising to bring more -boys in the morning to work the canoes; but in the -morning none were forthcoming, and after waiting some -time while Mswa rushed frantically round the country, -shouting to his people, who walked off into the grass -and laughed at him, I concluded that he was either -incompetent or trying to make a fool of me, and, to his -consternation, manned the canoes with my own men and -started. As I expected, enough men were immediately -forthcoming, but too late, and I held on my way.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="noindent pfirst"><span class="small">[#] </span><em class="italics small">Muzungu</em><span class="small">: white man.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>We did not reach Mahagi till after dark. Here the -hills again recede from the lake-shore, leaving an alluvial -plain from one to two miles wide, which is densely -populated by Lures, while in the hills there are numerous -villages of Balegga. Tukenda is the big man, whose -influence reaches from south of Mswa to Boki; he has a -small herd of cattle and large flocks of goats, and his -people are evidently flourishing and very friendly. So -dense is the population that the natives have been -emigrating down the lake, and have started new villages on -the unoccupied sand-spits. At Boki a grand old tusker -came sailing by the camp, and after a stern chase and -much expenditure of powder, condescended to strike his -colours. He was a perfect specimen of the Toro type -above described, standing 11 ft. 1 in. at the shoulder, -with a forefoot of 62 in., and measuring 5 ft. 6 in. round -the elbow, while his tusks were 6 ft. 10 in. and 7 ft 1 in. long, -weighing respectively 72 lbs. and 76 lbs. A small -patch of forest about two miles by one mile comes down -from the hills to the lake-shore, and as my boys had -heard elephant there when cutting wood, I went for a -stroll after the midday heat of the sun. Never have I -seen a more delightful or interesting scene; countless -herds of elephant had trampled down the undergrowth, -leaving vast shady chambers joined in all directions by -galleries. Some of these chambers were fully an acre in -extent, and every vestige of vegetation underfoot had -been crushed into a level carpet, upon which it was a -pleasure to walk. As one entered these delightful -retreats, troops and troops of monkeys lined the branches -and gazed on us with fearless curiosity; while two or -three hundred of the beautiful black-and-white colobus -monkey performed the most amazing acrobatic feats -overhead. Emerging on the far side I saw a herd of ten -elephant. They were standing in long grass, but -fortunately there was a small ant-hill close by; climbing -up this I found them all with ears widespread advancing -in line towards me, and had it not been for the -fortuitous existence of this point of vantage they would -have walked right on top of us, the grass being about -8 ft. high. They presented a glorious spectacle as they -came sailing along, all canvas set (I can find no other -word to express the motion of an elephant in grass), ten old -tuskers, their ivory now and again gleaming white above -the grass; on they came till, when within thirty yards, -one turned and gave me a chance. He dropped to the -shot, but quickly recovered; succumbing, however, after -two more. I damaged three more considerably before -exhausting the magazine, and then dashed off in -pursuit, passing one which had dropped about five hundred -yards off, and reached an ant-hill from which I could see -number three evidently very sick. I dropped him with -a forehead shot, but he recovered, and eventually reached -the forest carrying another ten bullets. Here I followed -again, but it was impossible to keep his spoor owing to -the perfect maze of tracks, and after wandering around -for some time, I climbed up an ant-hill with a large -funnel down the middle. From this elevation I saw him -standing not more than fifteen yards away. I fired the -10-bore, which staggered him, and knocked me down the -funnel, but I scrambled out again just in time to give -him the second barrel, which brought him down at the -same time that I once more retired into my Stygian -retreat; a 3 in. ridge of crumbling earth 15 ft. from the -ground is not the most advisable basis from which to -fire a 10-bore paradox. All these elephant were of the -same type, huge solid beasts with shortish, thick tusks; -6 ft. 10 in., 7 ft. 3 in., 5 ft. 6 in., 5 ft. 6 in., 6 ft. 4 in., -6 ft. 5 in., and weighing 76 lbs., 78 lbs., 56 lbs., 56 lbs., -60 lbs., and 61 lbs. respectively.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The next day I found the fourth that I had hit very -hard. He had fallen within two hundred yards of the -other two, but owing to the long grass I had not seen -him. His tusks weighed 49 lbs., and measured 6 ft. and -5 ft. 10 in., making a total of 633 lbs. for the day.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Between Boki and Munyagora there is a ten-mile stretch -of inhospitable scrub covered with a species of acacia, -with huge white thorns springing in pairs from hard -bulbous excrescences. Formerly there was a settlement -named Mjamori about half way, but the chief Akem has -fled with his people to Munyagora; he told me that he -had fled from the Belgians. I here made the discovery -that "Billygee" is a generic term for the Congo officials, -and not, as I had previously imagined, the name of an -individual. From Munyagora to Igara, which lies at the -bend of the river, the country is thickly populated. The -Lures build very primitive shelters and surround each -village with a scherm of thorn-tree; they do not appear -to cultivate the soil, but breed large numbers of goats, -which look very sleek and comely. The country, which -is very barren and parched, is admirably adapted to -that abominable quadruped, which is never so happy -as when confined to a little sand and the rancid smell -of its own kind.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>I was an object of the greatest curiosity, especially to -the ladies of these communities, who came in large -numbers to inspect me (front seats at bath time being in -great request), and who, whether from a ridiculous sense -of modesty or a laudable desire to do honour to the -occasion, donned over and above the national costume of a -small piece of string tied round the waist, a hopelessly -inadequate apron of dried grass: a garment that, from -the simplicity of its cut and the small quantity of -material employed in its composition, I should have no -hesitation in classing with the species of female -extravagance known, I believe, to the fair sex as tailor-made. -The men, who seem to be of a hopeful disposition, spend -much time in making wicker baskets resembling two -lobster-pots fastened together like a cottage loaf; these -they leave in the river tied to sticks and without bait. -I saw many hundreds of these, and large numbers of -natives visiting them, but only one fish, though my -olfactory sense warned me of the vicinity of at least one -more. They have a pretty little myth about buying -food from the Balegga for fish, and as they do not kill -their goats and certainly had not been buying lately, I -cannot imagine what they live on; but I do know that -in six hours they removed every scrap of five large bull -elephant, hides, bones, and all; a small trifle of about -twenty tons; so conclude they live a kind of -boa-constrictor's existence. Many of the young men aggravate -the natural ugliness of their faces by inserting pieces of -glass about 5 in. long in their under-lip. One and all -carry small bows, with reed arrows tipped with long -thin spikes of iron neither barbed nor feathered. Most -of the chiefs and elders are obviously of different race, -some having the Galla features more or less pronounced. -Here at the north end of the lake one emerges quite -suddenly from the "Bantu" peoples to the Nilotic, and -the line of division is wonderfully sharply defined. There -are numbers of reedbuck and nsunu, and in the bush -a small very red oribi of which I failed to procure a -specimen. I also saw a herd of hartebeeste, and shot a -cow; they closely resembled the Lichtenstein, though -the rump was not so white, and the horns lie closer -together and stand more erect than those of Lichtenstein. -Mr. Cape tells me that Jackson's hartebeeste, which it -appears to resemble in other respects, is a considerably -larger beast; so that it is to be hoped that he will be -able to take a skull and hide home for identification.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst" id="wadelai-to-kero"><span class="bold large">CHAPTER XVIII.</span></p> -<p class="center pnext"><span class="bold medium">WADELAI TO KERO.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>I arrived at Wadelai on October 1st, and found -Lieut. Cape, R.A., in command; the boma is -built on a small hill overlooking the miniature lake, and -is slightly south of Emin's old site. Here, as elsewhere, -the drought had been very serious, and the country -consequently looked bare and uninviting. After Rhodesia, -B.C.A., and Northern Rhodesia, it was difficult to -believe that this land of administrative chaos had been -occupied for six years. The mail arrived three weeks -overdue, and some loads which had or ought to have -been already a month on the road, were three weeks -afterwards still untraceable, although the whole distance -is only a fortnight's march, while station loads sent off -yet three weeks earlier were still unheard of. Nowhere -has the Government made any effort to introduce even -bananas, much less fruit-trees, vegetables, wheat, or rice; -no system of mail service has been organized, and no -regulations as to import, duties, etc., had been issued. -At Toro I asked for information about the transit dues, -naturally objecting to pay the ordinary export duty of -15 per cent. on ivory which I had obtained outside the -Protectorate. My request was ignored, and at Wadelai -I was met by a demand for duties based on regulations -apparently issued for our benefit, but by an error of -judgment bearing a date subsequent to our crossing the -frontier. From this I can only gather, either that the -possibility of the country becoming a trade-route (one of -the </span><em class="italics">raisons d'être</em><span>, I presume, of the railway) had never -been entertained, or that it was part of the penny-wise, -pound-foolish policy that robs officials of their hunting -trophies, and maintains, at the preposterous figure of -14 rupees 8 annas a month, a large number of Waganda -boatmen on the Nile, where they die like flies of -dysentery brought on by unsuitable food. The country is -quite unsuited to these Waganda, who are all banana-eaters, -millet being the staple food; and this, coupled -with the great difference in altitude, is killing them by -dozens, while the banks of the Nile itself are lined with -capable canoemen, who could be engaged at 3s. a month; -14 r. 8 a. a month to raw natives, many of whom are -mere boys, is sufficient in itself to damn any country's -future which will be dependent on its agriculture. Where -would B.C.A. be with wages for raw labour at £1 a -month? It is an uphill fight now at 3s. rate; 8 r. a -load from Kampala to Fajao, a fourteen days' march, -what produce will bear transport rates like this? -Similarly the pay of the Soudanese is absurd; they actually -do not know what to do with their money; and the only -result of the late rise in their pay is that they no longer -cultivate on their own account, but buy everything at -exorbitant rates from the natives. They would have -been equally contented and equally well off with half -the sum, the effect of the other half being increased -drunkenness and a general rise in the price of native -produce. The Government should have its own plantations -or make allotments to the station natives, instead -of the present system of money rations, as it will be -very difficult to induce the natives to work while they -can sell enough produce at exorbitant rates to obtain -their few luxuries, and in the near future to pay their -hut-tax. Another gross piece of folly was the -introduction of the rupee instead of the English currency.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>It was very pleasant to find some one to talk to again; -in six weeks one finds out what a terribly uninteresting -fellow one is. After a rest of three or four days spent -in waiting for the overdue mails and the arrival of the -Waganda canoe fiasco, Lieutenant Cape took me out to -see the Shuli country and for a general trot round, the -</span><em class="italics">pièce de résistance</em><span> to be an old bull giraffe that Sheikh -Ali, the local potentate, reported to be in his neighbourhood. -My host was fortunate enough to be able to leave -the station for a few days, though we were hampered in -our movements by his having to keep within a day's -march. This, I believe, was the second time he had -succeeded in getting away for a day or two in his year's -residence. The really important work of inspecting the -country and winning the confidence of the natives had -to give way to the soldierly occupation of sorting mails, -and retailing beads and yards of cloth, which could be -equally well done by an Indian at 10 or 15 r. a month. -This playing at shop is, as far as I could judge, the sole -</span><em class="italics">raison d'être</em><span> of these stations, and perhaps a desire on -the part of the Government to show the unfortunate -officer who has been inveigled into this Downing -Street-warranted paradise what an insignificant thing he and -his wants (at home we should say necessaries of life) -are compared with a Dinka's boots or a Baluchi's ginger. -The whole transport of the Protectorate has been -paralyzed to supply a miserable mob of Baluchis with rations -which their white officers would gladly have bought at -their weight in gold, and who have been, are, and will -be utterly useless in the country. Heaven knows what -they have cost, and Heaven, I presume, knows why they -were brought, for I am sure no one else does. There was -not one single pound of flour in any station that I passed -through, and no white man had been able to obtain a -load of the common necessaries of life for months, -because what little transport there was had been -monopolized to hurry through the Soudanese belts, blankets, -comic opera uniforms, and boots, which they take off -and give to their boys to carry when they walk. One -gallant officer amused me much by telling me that the -one touch of civilization of the past year had been a -ginger-pudding made from a surplus ounce of the Indians' -rations.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>We had a delightful trip, killing a good elephant, 71 -lbs. and 61 lbs. (broken tusks); but the giraffe turned out -to be an unsociable old gentleman and not on view; we -were always nearly coming on him, but never quite came. -The country was full of rhino, the difficulty being to -avoid them. One day natives came in to report an -elephant in the Shuli country, and we hurried off to the -spot. Here we found that he had killed a woman who -had met him unexpectedly on the path. Unfortunately -we failed to avenge her, as, after following for some hours, -we lost the spoor owing to the hardness of the ground. -The following morning they brought us news of buffalo, -which turned out to be three rhino lying under a tree. -They started off, making a great variety of strange -sounds, and after a stern chase we slew the old bull, -which stood 5 ft. 5 in. at the shoulder, and measured -12 ft. in length. Unfortunately we had also wounded -one of the cows during the bombardment, and so had a -long tramp to finish her. On the morrow we again had -news of buffalo, and this time found, but they escaped -without a shot, Cape's .303 missing fire. For some reason -or other they travelled hard, and just as we were coming -close again, a confounded old cow rhino, which was -evidently sleeping close to their track, charged Cape most -viciously. Fortunately he turned her at three yards -with a double barrel from the .303, and she rushed past -me with a youngster, tail and nose in air and squealing -like a steam-whistle, in hot pursuit. I dropped her with -a spine-shot from my .303, but to our annoyance she -recovered after dragging her hind quarters for fifty yards, -and led us a long and exhausting dance in a desperate -sun. She was a saucy old lady, but our battery was too -much for her, and she never charged again, although -after the first burst she made no frantic efforts to go -away. A very long shot from Cape's 8-smoothbore -glanced off her shoulder. Curiously enough, I had an -exactly similar experience with my rhino on the -Chambesi: the first shot from my 4-bore glanced off the -shoulder, although a broadside shot at thirty yards and -striking 18 in. below the ridge. Of course both these -guns fired spherical balls. In Cape's case I distinctly -heard the bullet strike, and then again strike the trees -far away. I regret to say we never caught the calf; he -stayed behind in the grass at an early stage of the fracas; -he was the funniest-looking little chap imaginable, and -reminded me of the mock turtle; if taught to follow, he -would have made quite a sensation in the Park. The -elephant, which measured 11 ft. 6 in. at the shoulder, -58 in. round the fore foot, 18 ft. round the edge of the -ear, 4-½ ft. from the earhole to the outside edge, was -chiefly remarkable for the complacent way in which he -received a really extraordinary sequence of lead; we -kept up a running bombardment over about half a mile; -and it was not till Cape put an experimental shot into -his leg that we could induce him to take any notice of -us. This brought him round sharp, and I popped a shot -in, in front of the eye, which knocked him down. Even -then he made desperate efforts to get up again, and would -have succeeded had it not been for the slope on which -he was lying, and the fact that his legs were up-hill.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>About this time life became rather a burden, owing -to the terrific storms that broke over us nightly. The -first one removed my tent as you would a candle-extinguisher, -and left me exposed to a torrent of ice-cold -water (one can hardly call it rain, as it comes in one -solid mass, like an inverted bath). This experience--and -a more awful one I cannot conceive--made us both -rather nervous, and the greater portion of the succeeding -three nights was spent in anxious wakefulness, -desperate hammerings at pegs and holding of poles, to -the accompaniment of a running and not too polite -commentary on Nature and her ways, sustained in a -high falsetto to keep up one another's courage. But -this became rather wearying, and we consequently -returned to Wadelai. The Shulis, whose country lies -to the east of the Lures, and extends from the Somerset -Nile to about 48 north, are similar in appearance to -their Lure neighbours. They hunt game by means of -nets and regularly organized battues, and seem to be -fair shikaris compared to the other people in this part -of Africa. They appear to be braver than the Lures, -who are the most abject curs. Near Mahagi I have -seen elephant's droppings on the roofs of the huts, -and the fields trodden flat, and this in spite of there -being a number of guns in the country, while we did -succeed in inducing some Shulis to follow the spoor -of the murderous elephant above-mentioned, but at the -chatter of a monkey they hurriedly disappeared, and -it needed ten minutes to collect them again. They -build very neat villages, laid out on a definite plan, and -very superior to the primitive hayricks of the Lures. -An outer ring of huts, with the spaces between stoutly -palisaded, encloses alternate rings of grain-stores and -huts, while the centre is occupied by a dining and -"jabbering" place, formed by piling stout poles in -tiers; these, like most of their other possessions, being -stained with a kind of red clay. In some central -position a large pigeon-loft is built, in which all the small -babies are stowed and shut up for the night; a very -excellent idea, and one that might be introduced at -home. Many of the young bloods wear neat head-dresses -made of human hair, with an outer layer of beads and -culminating in a peak in front, which is tipped with an -old cartridge-case or other gaudy object. They paint -their bodies in gruesome patterns with red-and-white -clay, and do not distress themselves about the -proprieties. They still own considerable herds of cattle -and enormous flocks of goats and sheep, and their -cultivations are very extensive. Numbers of chiefs -came to pay their respects, glad of the opportunity of -doing so without passing through Lure country, which -they must do to visit Wadelai. One old gentleman -arrived with a cane-bottomed chair, which he said had -once belonged to Emin; he also distinctly remembered -Sir Samuel Baker. His two chief wives came and called -on us; they were pleasant-featured women, and scrupulously -clean, but their appearance was much spoilt by -the inevitable piece of glass and enormous earrings. -This wearing of a piece of glass in the lower lip is very -curious, and peculiar, I believe, to the Shulis and Lures.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>On October 22nd, giving up all hopes of my loads, -I sent back my Manyema </span><em class="italics">via</em><span> Kampala, and embarking -in my man-of-war with five trusty Watonga, my small -boy from Ujiji, and my two Wa Ruanda, I started down -stream once more, and profiting by a strong current, -made considerable progress, and encamped on the left -bank by one of the first villages of the Madi. The -Madi are a fine race, closely allied to the Lures; they -surround their villages with a dense thorn hedge, and -the only means of ingress is through small holes 2 ft. high. -They make beautiful arrows with barbs of a -great variety of patterns.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Here the mosquitoes were terrible, and as they were -small enough to penetrate the mesh of my net, sleep -was out of the question, while my wretched natives -spent the night in reminiscences of the happy lands -flowing with milk and honey now left far behind. On -the following day the river widened considerably, in -some places resembling a lake rather than a river. In -the vicinity of Bora, the old Egyptian station, it must -be at least four miles broad, and the current is almost -imperceptible, except where the sudd is so extensive as -to leave only one or two small channels. There are -enormous numbers of hippopotami in these reaches, -and they constitute a very real danger to navigation. -One of the Uganda canoes, in emerging from the -Unyama, a river opposite Dufilé, was attacked, and only -escaped by running into the sudd. Captain Delmé -Radcliffe, the officer commanding this district, was -attacked in the steel boat; and an infuriated old bull -chased me for fully half a mile, at one time being -within five yards of the stern, but a well-placed shot -from my revolver eventually induced him to desist -from the pursuit. The Madi attack them with a harpoon-head, -fastened to the end of a shaft by a twist of the -rope to which it is attached, and so arranged as to -detach itself after the delivery of the stroke from the -shaft, which remains in the hand of the hunter, while -the rope is free to run out until the float, which is tied -to the other end, can be thrown overboard. The ridge -of hills that commences at Wadelai gradually increases -in height, till at Bora the hills become quite imposing; -then they rapidly diminish, and a few miles south of -Dufilé vanish completely, giving place after a few miles -of level ground to some isolated kopjes. On the left -bank a range of hills runs parallel to the Nile, opposite -Wadelai, but at a distance of about twenty miles from -the river; then they bend to the east and merge into -the formidable peaks that dominate Dufilé and the -Karas rapids. On the bank of the river, and even in -mid-stream, there are some picturesque kopjes black -with cormorants. In the vast wastes of weed and water -through which one passes it is easy to trace the -formation of the formidable barriers which further north -render navigation almost impossible. There is a small -plant, similar in form to our well-known London Pride, -which grows in the water, and is entirely independent -of the soil, deriving its sustenance from the water by -means of a tangle of roots resembling seaweed, and which -descend to a depth of 1 ft. 6 in. to 2 ft. This plant -grows in enormous quantities at the mouth of the -Semliki, and in the placid reaches of the Victoria Nile, and -single plants and even large masses are carried by the -wind and current, and eventually are caught by a -snag, a bed of water-lilies, or a bank of sand; they are -soon followed by others, and by degrees the mass -becomes enormous. Then grass-seeds are dropped by -birds or driven by the wind, and the mass is quickly -matted by the grass; driftwood, plants, and refuse of -all sorts soon accumulate, and the rotting remains and -mud that settles from the stream form a solid bottom. -Then come the papyrus and the dense reeds, and what -was originally a stick or a water-lily has in a few months -become a solid island. There are numbers of Uganda -kob and hartebeeste on the banks, but remarkably few -ducks or geese. The neighbourhood of old Dufilé -appears to be very densely populated, and at my camp, -near the old site, I was visited by numbers of natives, -who told me that the Belgian post was further down, -below the commencement of the rapids, and that the -Belgians had been recently fighting a tribe living in -the hills.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The following morning, after narrowly escaping -shooting the rapids, owing to a mistake in Bt.-Major -Vandeleur's map, which transposes the river Unyama and the -stream which flows in farther north, I reached Afuddu, -a post built in the bottom of a crater several miles -from anywhere, and surrounded by dense bush. A -more concise summing up of Uganda methods than that -afforded by the placing of Afuddu would be difficult to -conceive. Subsequent inquiries elicited the monstrous -fact that the site had been chosen because of a -magnificent shady tree which serves as an open-air -dining-room: in fine, two white men and a hundred odd -Soudanese are condemned to live in a mosquito-bush -situated in a hollow surrounded by hills, two hours -from the river and off the main road to Fort Berkeley, -for the shade afforded by a tree during meal-times. -Naturally the site is now to be changed, which means -the loss of a year's work. I was much distressed to -find Lieut. Langton of the 21st Lancers, the O.C., in -bed with black-water fever. Fortunately two days -later Dr. Walker arrived from Lamogi, and when I -left all danger was past. The Commandant of new -Dufilé sent over wine and other luxuries for the invalid, -and sent me a most pressing invitation to go and shoot -with him, which, owing to my anxiety to arrive at Fort -Berkeley, and obtain the latest news, I was unable to -accept.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>After three days' wallowing in the unheard-of luxury -of glass, china, silver, milk and butter galore, for which -Afuddu is justly famous, I set off with thirty Madi -porters provided by a neighbouring chief, and crossing -the line of hills north of the Unyama, camped on the -Asua, which in the rains is a very formidable river. On -the road I saw my first herd of giraffe, but owing to the -necessity of avoiding delay, the country being uninhabited, -and consequently foodless, I had to rest content with a -long look through my binoculars. I was much impressed -with their immense height and extraordinary action. -The road to Fort Berkeley crosses the plateau several -miles east of the Nile, and passes through a stony, -inhospitable country, the haunt of numerous rhinoceros, -antelope, and elephant. Scores of rocky streams flow -west to the Nile. In the neighbourhood of the large -hills, four days from Afuddu, their banks are clothed -with dense masses of bamboo. The third day out we -passed through the deserted fields and villages of a -chief, Krefi, who, owing to some difference as to the -porterage of food with the authorities at Fort Berkeley, -has moved with all his people from the road towards -the interior. This has been a sad blow to the transport -of the region, as formerly a relay of porters and food -were to be obtained, whereas now the porters from Afuddu -have to do the whole five days to Alimadi's villages, -and that without being able to obtain food on the road, -an innovation which they naturally resent. At Alimadi's -I found a detachment of Soudanese from Fort Berkeley -buying food. Alimadi himself is a decent old chief, and -still owns a few head of cattle; I believe the only -herd in the vicinity that has survived the depredations -of the Dervishes. Between here and Fort Berkeley the -road traverses the sites of numerous villages, the -inhabitants of which have either fled or been slain. Fort -Berkeley is quite in keeping with the other stations on -the Nile, having been carefully placed under a brow -which commands the interior of the zariba. A swamp -to the west between the fort and the river, and an -extensive swamp to the south, add to the general -salubrity of the situation. The nearest food-centres are -two days' march, with the consequent result that half -the garrison is constantly away buying food. The -Maxim has been mounted behind a large acacia tree, -which effectively screens it from an imaginary enemy, -but at the same time confines its firing area to the inside -of the fort, and gives a general finish-off to the situation. -The station has been provided with an Egyptian clerk, -who can only write Arabic, which is not required, and -whose duties are consequently limited to holding a -tape-yard at the Stores issue, for which herculean task -he receives the very respectable sum of a hundred -rupees a month.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Captain Dugmore, D.S.O., the officer in command, -received me with every kindness, and nearly broke my -heart by assuring me that I should spend Christmas -with him. I had counted on being home by Christmas; -a vain hope, as it afterwards transpired, and his -prediction came near being fulfilled. He was engaged in -completing a magnificent water-wheel </span><em class="italics">à la Chinoîse</em><span>, -compounded of broken-up chop-boxes and empty tins. -The extraordinary relics employed in its construction -and the ingenuity displayed filled me with amazement. -But, alas! its life was short, for after three days of -service it collapsed in a high wind, which, considering -that the only elements available for the construction -of its axle were some green wood and a sardine-tin, -was not remarkable. Here, as elsewhere, all the crops -had failed, owing to the drought, and Captain -Dugmore's wheat, though cherished with loving care, was -gradually disappearing before the ubiquitous termite. -As the launch was away, we were in the ignominious -position of being dependent on the Belgians for a ferry -across the river. Shabby! shabby! is the only word -for our methods in Africa. At present on the Nile we -have one steel boat refloated off Mahagi, and below -the cataracts one steam-tub. Add to this a few useless -Waganda canoes, one of which, after an initial cost -of, say, £100, carries one load, and all of which are -warranted to spoil half their contents owing to the -enormous leakage inevitable in canoes consisting of -planks sewn together by fibre, and you have our Upper -Nile fleet; while the Belgians, whose transport -difficulties are at least equal to ours, have a large steamer -and a dozen fine steel whale-boats, with several more -in construction and on the road. The majority of the -Belgians (there are about twenty on the Nile) are well -lodged in burnt-brick houses, while, with the exception -of a weird construction in sun-dried brick at Fort -Berkeley, all our officers are housed, like the natives, in -grass and mud huts. The sum of the situation is this. -The Belgians under Chaltin reached the Nile, drove out -the Dervishes from Redjaf after some stiff fighting, -followed them up, and eventually, by repeated activity -and the effective occupation and fortification of Kero -on the 5-½° parallel, compelled them in self-defence to -evacuate Bohr. They then put their steamer on the -river, and by a reconnaissance towards the Bahr-el-Ghazal, -ascertained that the Dervishes had left the -country, presumably to join the Khalifa in Kordofan. -In the meanwhile Colonel Martyr's expedition arrives -on the scene, and after establishing four posts--Wadelai, -Lamoji, Afuddu, and Fort Berkeley--in the most unsuitable -positions, succeeds in launching a small steam-tub -capable of holding about ten men, and in which it is -impossible to put both wood and supplies at the same -time. Everybody, the officers of the expedition included, -imagined that an effort was to be made to effect a -junction with the Egyptian forces--an excellent -opportunity of acquiring a maximum of "kudos" at a -minimum of cost, a chance that does not come to all -men--and the chance slid by.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>From Bohr to Gaba Shambeh there is an excellent -waterway, and at the same time that we were bolting -from the mosquitoes and imaginary difficulties, some -Senegalese with a French officer were flying the -tri-colour at Gaba Shambeh, and were advancing their -interests </span><em class="italics">via</em><span> Abu-kuka towards Bohr. After such -dismal failures, and in view of the prevailing chaos, it -is hardly to be wondered at that the Commissioner -found it advisable to issue general orders to the effect -that any officials writing home to their friends, and -mentioning abuses in letters which should appear in the -Press, would be held responsible. At Fort Berkeley I -seemed to have come to a full stop. The steam-tub, -with Dr. Milne and Capt. Gage, who had suddenly -started with Commandant Henry and the Belgian -steamer on a reconnaissance towards Khartoum, was -still away, and though they had been absent more than -two months there was no reliable news. But the -arrival of Inspector Chaltin, the victor of the Dervishes -at Redjaf, opened up new possibilities. In response to -his cordial invitation Captain Dugmore and I repaired -to Redjaf in a Belgian whale-boat, and in the intervals -of an amazing sequence of various wines and spirituous -liquors, Inspector Chaltin kindly invited me to join -him at Kero, adding that he would make inquiries about -the possibility of going from Bohr overland, and offering -me every assistance in his power.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Accordingly, a few days later I found myself again -at Redjaf, the guest of the charming commanding -officer of the station, Commandant Colin. Here I learnt -that I was to proceed slowly down river in the company -of M. Beaupain, the judge, a most ardent sportsman, -and to whom I am indebted for many kindnesses. The -mushroom-stone mentioned by Baker in </span><em class="italics">Ismaïlia</em><span> is -still extant, though hardly of the dimensions depicted. -The Dervishes had thrown up enormous earthworks, -and the outline of the old station and the foundations -of the houses are still visible; while, as at Bedden, -lime-trees and oil-seed acacia imported by Emin are -flourishing. A few hours' paddling brought us to Lado, which -is a howling waste in a wilderness of swamps. Here -the river is already of considerable breadth and a -network of enormous islands, many of which were covered -with crops of red millet, which looked very promising -despite the drought. The agricultural possibilities of -these thousands of isles and islets immediately after -flood as a rule are very great; at highest river most are -inundated, but sowings after the first fall give -enormous crops, the soil, which is composed of alluvium and -decaying vegetation, being of extraordinary richness. -The formation of many is very curious, resembling -nothing so much as a coral island, a solid bank of -varying thickness enclosing a lagoon, with the stream flowing -all round. Lieut. Engh received me with the greatest -hospitality, and we spent several delightful days in this -historic waste. There is here a fine herd of cattle -looted from the Dervishes. The earthworks of the old -station are enormous, and need a garrison of fully one -thousand men. At present there is a small palisaded -enclosure in one corner which contains the station, and -the approaches are commanded by two Krupp guns -and a Maxim posted on a brick tower. But Inspector -Chaltin talks of removing the main station from Kero -to Lado, owing to its greater agricultural possibilities, -in which case the whole extent of the earthworks will -be utilized. Between here and Redjaf are enormous -swamps, which further north on the Kero road become -still more extensive, in places opening out into vast -lagoons. The lagoon immediately to the south of Kero -is about fifteen miles in circumference, though not more -than half a mile wide at the river neck. To the east -lie the hills of Gondokoro, and beyond them other -ranges of hills with a large population and many cattle. -These are the last eminences till we reach the hills of -Kordofan, and the country settles down into one vast -dismal flat, a wilderness of water, weed, and scrub; the -haunt of thousands of hippo, elephant, and dismal -marabout storks; the paradise of malaria, misery, and -mosquitoes.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Six hours' paddling brought us to Kero, the frontier -station of the Congo Free State, on the 5-½° parallel, which -is their temporary limit as arranged by treaty with the -French. The station is a marvellous example of energy, -although only in existence for one year. A large and -well-built brick house for the inspector has been -completed, and the majority of the whites, to the number -of about ten, are housed in baked-brick cottages. There -are several large whale-boats, and more in course of -erection. At one time there were a thousand Askaris, -a number which has been reduced since the reconnaissance -of Commandant Henry towards the north, which -ascertained that the Dervishes had retreated </span><em class="italics">via</em><span> -Rumbek and Mashra er Rek towards Kordofan. The high -bank on which the station stands being the promontory -at a sharp bend of the river, is being rapidly eaten -away by the stream, and the water-edge is now thirty -yards further back than a year ago. This shows to -what an extent and with what marvellous rapidity the -Nile changes its course. The quantity of fish is -prodigious, and an Anzande fisherman keeps the station -daily supplied with fish of the best quality. Some -attain to a weight of 200 lbs., and several enormous -specimens have been obtained by dynamite explosions -which are the evening amusement. The Anzande -method is very ingenious. The fisherman selects a -shallow spot, and with a clever knack throws a -funnel-shaped net weighted round the rim, and attached by -the apex to a cord, by means of which he feels if any fish -have been covered; he then slowly draws in, and the -weights, thus closing together, form a bag with the fish -struggling in the meshes. Several times I saw him take -a dozen large fish at a time, and half an hour's work -in almost the same spot sufficed to provide fish for all -the white men, and many to spare. The food question -is one of considerable difficulty, grain being only -obtainable at a distance of several days, which necessitates -the continued absence of half the garrison. However, -the natives managed to eke out their daily ration of one -small cup of red millet with fish, an occasional hippo -or antelope, and a kind of plum which grows in profusion -in the district; it has a hard outer shell, then one-tenth -of an inch of sweet fibre which leaves an after-taste of -quinine, and finally a hard stone containing a kernel that -cooked tastes like a mixture of prussic acid and -quintessence of quinine; however, the natives devour them with -avidity, and also extract an oil which I am told is quite -tasteless--a fact that, after tasting one of the kernels, -I am prepared to take on trust. There is also a small -berry tasting like an old apple, from which they make -a form of bread, which at first sight I pardonably -mistook for clay. There was plenty of snap about the -Congo State soldiers, who paraded daily with drums -and bugles, and it was easy to see by the general -efficiency and the progress made in a short time that the -country was under a strong man, the whole Nile district -forming a very agreeable contrast to the Tanganyika -chaos.</span></p> -<div class="align-center auto-scaled figure margin" style="width: 61%" id="figure-77"> -<span id="balegga-waiting-for-elephant"></span><img class="align-center block" style="display: block; width: 100%" alt="BALEGGA WAITING FOR ELEPHANT." src="images/img-289.jpg" /> -<div class="caption centerleft figure-caption margin"> -<span class="italics">BALEGGA WAITING FOR ELEPHANT.</span></div> -</div> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst" id="kero-to-abu-kuka-and-back-to-bohr"><span class="bold large">CHAPTER XIX.</span></p> -<p class="center pnext"><span class="bold medium">KERO TO ABU-KUKA AND BACK TO BOHR.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>As considerable anxiety was felt as to the fate of the -steamer, which had been now three months -absent without sending news, Inspector Chaltin decided -to send Commandant Renier with a whale-boat to -Shambeh to endeavour to obtain information, and very -kindly offered me the opportunity of accompanying him, -with orders to assist me forward in every possible way. -As I was suffering from congestion of the liver, which -prevented me from standing up straight, and from a -remittent fever which showed no inclination to -disappear, I gladly availed myself of the chance, knowing -that activity alone would keep the fever in check, and -that it was advisable to reach the sea as soon as possible. -The camp was beaten up for volunteers to go with me -overland either from Bohr or Shambeh, as circumstances -might dictate, with the result that one small boy, a -Dinka, and a mad criminal in chains, were forthcoming, -with which formidable recruits on December -20th, I, an old Egyptian Dervish prisoner with a broken -leg, a dozen soldiers, and sundry nondescripts, departed -in one of the large whale-boats. I carried away with -me many pleasing souvenirs of Inspector Chaltin's -hospitality, and everybody's kindness and welcome, and -also the sincere hope that never should I set eyes on -Kero or any other spot on the Upper Nile again.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>For several miles the stream follows the bank, then -branches off to the east, and for miles and miles loses -itself in a labyrinth of isles of weed. In vain we searched -for a landing-place, and it was not till 5 p.m. that we -found a small plantation of millet with a few wretched -Baris stifling in a fog of mosquitoes on a mud-bank. -The following day we paddled for hours, seeing nothing -but tall reeds, hippo, and sand-spits, and eventually -reached the left bank again at a spot called Semsem, -owing to the immense plantations of that grain which -existed here in the time of the Dervishes. Here there -is a bank nearly 6 ft. high, with a large tree tenanted -by hundreds of marabouts; to the south-west and -north are swamps, and to the east, beyond the river, -stretches one vast howling melancholy--reach upon -reach of reed and rush, strips of lagoon, and again -rush and reed, till on the far horizon a thin purple -haze shows the line of the right bank.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The few Baris that we met on the islands informed -us that they had come thither because they had been -worsted in an encounter with the Dinkas to the north-west. -Their villages were very scattered, the huts being -dotted in ones and twos throughout their fields of -millet. They beat the ground immediately -surrounding their huts into a hard concrete, which they kept -well swept, and upon which they dry the seeds of the -nenuphar preparatory to pounding it into flour. As -most of their huts were covered with strings of drying -meat and strips of hippo hide, they would appear to -be expert hippopotamus hunters. All their canoes are -very tiny, and they work them with consummate skill. -The amount of fish that they spear is wonderful. It is -very sad to think how the Baris have been wiped out -by the Dervishes. It will be remembered what a -formidable people they were in Sir Samuel Baker's time; -putting thousands of warriors into the field, and owning -vast herds of cattle. Now, with the exception of those -who took refuge in the Gondokoro hills, they are to all -intents and purposes extinct. A few scattered -settlements of miserable fisher-folk alone show the extent -of the former Bari kingdom. The whole road from -Krefi's kraal to Fort Berkeley is lined with the stone -foundations of former Bari villages, and the country -is strewn with discarded stones, used for grinding the -corn. There is still, according to report, plenty of -cattle in the Gondokoro hills, but with that exception -and the exception of the few beasts owned by Ali-madi, -all those vast herds spoken of by Baker have been -looted and destroyed. Fortunately the Dervish wave -did not reach further than Dufilé, so that the southern -Nile above the rapids was left untouched. The country -east of the Nile, except on the actual river-banks, was -also practically untouched, hence the Eastern Dinkas -escaped their depredations, and still own enormous -heads of cattle. The Western Dinkas were less -fortunate, as the Dervishes from the Bahr-el-Djebel and -the Bahr-el-Ghazal penetrated far into the Niam-Niam -country, and were at one time a serious menace to the -Congo Free State. This is the only valid excuse for -the Belgian occupation of the Nile; but I think the -result could have been equally well accomplished by -protecting the Congo Nile watershed. Still, the Belgians -carried out their expedition with consummate ability, -and all honour is due to Inspector Chaltin for his able -leadership. It was a gross error of statesmanship that -ever permitted them to obtain a footing on the Nile. -For, however good their intentions, their methods are -not ours; and their presence cannot but tend to unsettle -the natives.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The key to the difference between their methods and -ours lies in the fundamentally distinct objects for which -we acquire territory. We acquire territory for generations -yet unborn, trusting thereby to find an outlet for -surplus population in the congested days to come. It -is to the future benefit of the race that we look. We -expect no immediate return. It is as with a man who -starts farming, and with an eye to the future buys the -call on the surrounding country. But with the Belgians -it is quite different. They expect immediate returns. -They say this country is no good, we can get no ivory -or rubber, why do we stay here? And they are -advising the evacuation of the Nile stations. It is as -with a man who leases a vast tract of country and -cuts down all the timber for sale, hoping thereby to -obtain a large and immediate return on his money, -ignoring the future, or believing his lease to be merely -temporary. The greatest difficulty with which the -Belgians have to contend--one that paralyzes all their -efforts, however genuine--is the character of the tribes -from whom they recruit their soldiers. I myself, having -had experience of Manyema, can fully appreciate their -difficulties in this respect. The majority of the tribes -drawn upon are cannibals, and they are so low in the -scale of civilization, and in many cases so vice-sodden -from their association with Arabs of the Tippoo Tib -fraternity, that it is impossible to make any impression -upon them. Most natives can be touched in their pride -or sense of the responsibility of a soldier's position. But -these brutes are mere brutes, feeling the whip if it is -laid on sufficiently thoroughly, and nothing else. As -I pointed out to Inspector Chaltin, if the Congo State -would draw its soldiers mainly from the northern -tribes, such as the Makrakas and Niam-Niams, they -would obtain the raw material that could be trained to -a sense of responsibility and self-esteem. The ruffians -that they employ at present cannot be trusted for one -hour away from the superintendence of a white man. -Cases of outrages committed by the mail-carriers on -even the natives on the British side of the river are of -daily occurrence. I can bear witness to the distress -that they caused Inspector Chaltin, but they are -inevitable with the existing state of the Free State forces. -Another potent factor is the inadequacy of the -commissariat arrangements; the Belgians are at present -endeavouring to maintain about one thousand five hundred -men in a country destitute of supplies. They have to -make expeditions ten days' march into the interior to -obtain any supplies at all. And I am convinced by the -frequency of the shooting affrays that their methods -of obtaining these supplies are not, in our ideas, -legitimate. Knowing, too, the difficulty that we have in -buying provisions for one hundred men only on the -British side, and having seen the trade goods taken -out by the Belgians, I am sure that "commandeering" -is largely resorted to. Anyhow it is significant that all -the natives on the Congo Free State side are retiring -further and further inland, while the natives on the -British side are rapidly resettling on the river-bank, -from which they were driven by the Dervishes. Owing -to the difficulty that the Belgians find in obtaining -supplies, the ration per man is one small cup of millet -a day; out of this he has probably to feed a slave boy, -one or two wives, and Heaven knows how many children. -Yet they all look sleek and fat. How do they manage -it? The conclusion is obvious. When I was hunting -with Captain Dugmore, the local natives on our side dare -not go alone into the bush, as they said that they would -be caught and eaten. Another great source of weakness -is the Belgian method of treating their natives. -They are too familiar with them, and then, when, as -the inevitable result, the natives become impertinent, -brutally severe. In treating natives it is indispensable -to emphasize the distinction between black and white, -yet at the same time to let the native see that you -respect him in his own line, but take your own absolute -superiority for granted. Hair-splitting justice is a </span><em class="italics">sine -qua non</em><span>; and, I believe, herein lies our success with -inferior peoples; it is the one thing that they can -understand, and which inspires more respect than -anything else.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>On the third day we met the first Dinkas, miserable, -amphibious objects, eking out a precarious existence on -a semi-submerged island; here we camped, in a visible--nay, -tangible--atmosphere of rotting fish, mud-caked -niggers, marabouts, and kites; and at sunset, with a -long-drawn expectant howl the mosquitoes arrived: -little ones, big ones, black ones, mottled ones, a whirling, -wailing fog of miniature vampires, that kept up the -mournful dirge till the cold hour before sunrise, when -with a sigh of relief we pushed off in our boat, and after -five hours' paddling reached Bohr, which lies on the -right bank at a sudden bend of the river. The original -zaribas of the Dervishes and the more substantial -earthworks thrown up when they heard of the occupation of -Kero are already falling to pieces, and the elephant now -takes his midday siesta midst the grinning skulls and -calcined bones that are scattered about, all equally -regardless of the wanton brutality of the near past. The -past fades fast in Africa; yet another year, and the -cotton-bush will have hid the mouldering relics of the -earthworks, and the white ant will have seen the last -grin of those gruesome jaws.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The fort of the Dervishes was of very considerable -extent; about five hundred yards by six hundred yards, -the long side lying on the river. There are still signs -of a primitive effort at drainage, and the enormous -quantity of cotton shrubs are a proof of the suitability -of the soil to this product could it be brought within -touch of a market. There are also unlimited numbers -of gum-trees and tamarinds.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>We had a few dynamite cartridges with us, and we -obtained a good supply of fish by a couple of explosions. -Amongst the numerous kinds that floated up to the -surface was a curious fish similar to the species that I -have mentioned as having been brought to me from -the Ruo river near Chiromo. It was a long, eel-like fish, -with the eyes covered by skin, the dorsal fin running -down to and joining the diminutive tail. The snout -was long and tubular, and the flesh lay in long, thin, -delicate flakes like the flesh of the skate. Another -species had the head and fore-part of the body encased -in an adamantine shield armed with dangerous spikes on -the back and by the pectoral fins. Its tail was shaped -like the tail of a shark, which it resembles in general -form, although the mouth was not underneath as with -the shark's. A third species, very common all over this -section of the Nile, much prized, and justly so, for the -richness of its flesh, is covered with disproportionately -enormous scales of circular form; its general form -approximates to that of a red mullet. The commonest -kind was the gorgeous tiger-fish, which is one of the -most beautiful fish that swim.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>There are large numbers of natives in the vicinity, and -when we had at length convinced them of our pacific -intentions, they brought milk and quantities of fish and -fowls. It appears that such was the anxiety of the -Dervishes in departing that the Dinkas succeeded in -relieving them of their cattle. As a protection against -mosquitoes the natives smother themselves in wood-ash, -and the long lines of tall, gaunt, grey spectres slowly -threading their way into the bush, each with a bright, -broad-bladed spear, and a small gourd of milk or a -decaying fish, present a very curious spectacle. Having -stopped for a day to buy supplies, amongst which was -a goat, rather less meaty than my hand, whose two -hind legs combined would have had no chance against -an English mutton-chop, we once more launched forth -into the weary waste. We camped successively on a -mud-bank tenanted by a few forlorn natives, from whom -we obtained a small supply of grain at an exorbitant -rate, and on a network of sun-dried hippo-holes whose -authors resented our intrusion all night, expressing their -disapproval by that strange variety of coughs, bellows, -grunts, squeals, and roars peculiar to that misshapen -pachyderm. Here we fired the 20 ft. reeds to modify -the mosquito plague. They were very dry except at -the base, and the terrific sheet of flame, capped by a -vast cloud of smoke catching the red lights from the -fire, afforded a picture of indescribable grandeur. It -thundered away like a mighty sea of molten iron, licking -up the country as it sped eastward; and we "smiled -loud out" to think of the billions of mosquitoes that -were perishing in its line; and the funny old hippo -roared in astonishment, blinking their pink eyes at the -alarming spectacle.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>On the third day, having seen throughout the whole -voyage from Bohr one tree at a distance of several miles, -we were startled during lunch by the cry of "Steamer!" -and rounding a bend in the river we saw the British -steam-tub labouring up-stream with a bunch of ribbons -that had once been a Jack flying at her stern. She was -soon alongside, and we found on board Mr. Mulders, a -naturalized American Dutchman, who built the Belgian -steamer, in command, and two Belgians, one of whom -was confined to his bed by a severe attack of sciatica -which necessitated his return to Kero. In answer to -our eager inquiries we learnt that they had spent the -three months in the sudd, making prodigious efforts to -cut a channel, and that eventually, after living -waist-deep in water, sleeping on water, eating strange birds -and being eaten by mosquitoes, steaming for miles in -search of a stick or grain, they had abandoned their -steamer, leaving her in charge of a few Askaris, and -the whole party, including the French officer from -Shambeh, who daringly followed them in a flotilla of -native canoes, had started in the boats with the idea -of dragging them by main force over the vegetation. -The British boat was sent back with the sick men for -supplies and mails, and with orders to return and patrol -the vicinity of the obstructions at intervals of a week, -blowing her whistle and endeavouring to find out whether -the party would return, and, if no news had been -obtained by the middle of March, to return with the -Belgian steamer to Kero.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>I consider this successful attempt of Capt. Gage of -the 7th Dragoon Guards, and Dr. Milne, as one of the -most daring feats ever accomplished in the history of -African travel. They suffered indescribable hardships -for nearly four months, during all which time they -hardly slept one night on land; but were compelled to -see the long hours of darkness through, night after night, -cramped up in a small boat or lying on the vegetation, -tormented by myriads of mosquitoes, and with very -little more substantial than native porridge to keep -their spirits up. Day after day, nothing but that vast -expanse of weed of a hopelessness beyond civilized -conception; day after day dragging their boats through -and over stinking bogs and spongy masses of weed -tenanted by a thousand crocodiles--not knowing where -they were, nor, in characteristic British fashion, caring, -yet ever keeping their face forward, strong in the -knowledge that perseverance must succeed. Their food ran -short, and to return was impossible. Had they not -come unexpectedly upon Major Peake's steamers they -would probably all have perished. Very few people can -ever have any conception of the magnitude and apparent -hopelessness of their task. The terror of those -stupendous wastes! They have eaten like rust into my very -heart, as they must do with all those who launch forth -into their seemingly unending desolation.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>From information I found it was impossible to land -anywhere north of Bohr on the right bank, so decided -that the only course open to me was to return to that -salubrious resort. Commandant Renier kindly offered -to take me on if I thought it worth while to make the -attempt; however, it was obviously useless, and with a -heavy heart I started back on my tracks. We steamed -up-river until we came to the enormous Lake Powendael, -which lies between the river and the left bank six hours -north of Bohr, and there we anchored till morning, when -we sent a boat ashore in search of wood. The lake is -about twenty miles by ten, and very shallow, numerous -banks covered with ducks, geese, pelicans, and other -strange birds showing above the surface. The Dervishes -were reported to have sunk their steamer here, but an -exhaustive search by the small boat failed to find -sufficient water to cover it; probably it was sunk in the -channel near Abu-kuka or Shambeh, as these are almost -the only spots where it is possible to reach the left bank. -The following day we reached Bohr, and as one of my -Wa Ruanda who had been sick was finished off by -mosquitoes, and my Dinka had bolted with what he could -lay his hands on, my numbers were reduced to my four -Watonga, two small boys, one Ruanda, the criminal -lunatic, and the youth from Kero. With these it was -obviously impossible to start, and Commandant Renier -kindly offered me some Askaris. Five boys from Sierra -Leone turned up in answer to a call for volunteers, and -with my numbers swelled to the vast total of fourteen, -I made a start on December 30th.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst" id="in-dinka-land"><span class="bold large">CHAPTER XX.</span></p> -<p class="center pnext"><span class="bold medium">IN DINKA-LAND.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>The native information as to my route was decidedly -discouraging, but knowing by now the value of -native information, it was with reasonable hopes of -success that I disposed of my bed and other luxuries, -and put the first of three hundred miles behind me. As -I started late, I camped at the first large village that I -met, a distance of six miles from Bohr. Here there was -an enormous population living round the extensive -lagoons that stretched in all directions, and after the first -few minutes of suspense, a brisk trade started in fish and -grain, and eventually in milk. On the following day we -succeeded in dodging several lagoons, but had to wade -up to our necks and cross another nearly a mile wide on -a very treacherous layer of vegetation. Skirting the edge -of the water, we came on a herd of twenty elephant, -and I dropped a good bull with a couple of .303's in the -head. The quantities of goats and sheep possessed by -the natives were extraordinary, enormous herds grazing -in every direction in the rich vegetation growing in the -swamps. After cutting off meat from the elephant, I -followed one of the numerous paths which led inland, -and meeting hundreds of natives on the way, arrived -at a large, scattered village, where we camped.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The main population, which is very dense, lives in -the bush at a distance of sometimes several miles from -the river, and water is one of the most expensive supplies, -though, except in seasons of severe drought, such as when -I passed through, there are evidently numerous pools -scattered all over the bush. Owing to the drought there -was no grain obtainable, and the natives were eating the -seeds of a water-plant resembling a crown-artichoke (the -nenuphar) and the kernels of the before-mentioned plums. -A very affable and intelligent gentleman, who had -accompanied me for some miles, offered his services as -guide, which I gladly accepted, and after marching for -an hour I arrived at another extensive village. Here, -as elsewhere, all the huts were isolated and surrounded -by a fence of thorns to ward off the lions, which were -very numerous. On the path we met hundreds and -hundreds of natives, many of enormous stature, 6 ft. 4 -to 6 ft. 6, who were going to cut up the elephant, and -they were all very friendly. At the village I waited for -my boys to close up, but after some time one was still -missing, and as boys whom I sent back told me that -they could not find him, I packed my people and -belongings into one of the thorn-fences, and went back with -one soldier and some Dinkas whom I persuaded to -accompany me.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>About a mile away I met my headman and my guide -of the morning returning with the delinquent, who was -none other than the criminal lunatic. It appears that -he had decided to return home, and, as a preliminary, -had distributed my blankets, mosquito-curtain, and -clothes amongst the natives. By an extraordinary stroke -of luck I recovered them intact, with the trivial -exception of one of my two shirts; it was due to my guide, -and he and the two men who brought them in were -handsomely rewarded; so was the runaway. The flies -by day, the mosquitoes by night, rendered life well-nigh -impossible, and with visions of impassable swamps, -waterless deserts, and famine in front, I heartily wished -myself quit of Africa and all its abominations, as I have -so often done before, and shall no doubt so often do again. -In the afternoon, at the urgent request of many hungry -Dinkas, I sallied forth and slew a good bull elephant. -I had chased him for several miles, pouring in lead -whenever I could see him, till at last he stood. This gave -me my chance, and he dropped to a shot in the head. -But as I was going up to inspect him, he suddenly rose -and sloped away. I fired four shots from the 10-bore -at him as he passed. At the fourth he stopped, turned -his head towards me, and quite deliberately began to -advance, examining carefully with his trunk every -palm-bush. There was no unseemly haste about his action. -He meant investigating the matter. My position was -most uncomfortable, as, if I fired, I should give him my -whereabouts, and certainly could not drop him; while, -if I moved from the cover of the diminutive palm-tree -behind which I was standing, he would immediately -see me, and the country was too open to escape. So, -for lack of another alternative, I waited. On he came -quite quietly, that snake-like trunk writhing round every -corner, till there were but two more palm-trees between -him and me: out went that trunk once more; he stopped, -swayed slowly to and fro, and fell with a mighty -crash--dead. His tusks must have weighed about 60 -lbs. apiece. It was heart-breaking to leave them lying there, -and to think that I had had to kill such a magnificent -beast for the sake of his meat. The natives were very -much delighted, and evidently thought me a great -institution, and for several days afterwards I was pestered -with requests to shoot elephant, till I began to wish I -had never seen such a beast. They promised to take -the tusks of those I had slain to Bohr, and to give them -to the steamer when she returned, but I don't suppose -I shall see them again.[#]</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="noindent pfirst"><span class="small">[#] They turned up seven years later, -the natives having kept them -for me till a Government station was established.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>The river, which is here one vast sea of grass, the -opposite bank being quite invisible even from an -eminence of 20 ft., continually branches inland in the form of -long, narrow, meandering lagoons, which, I suppose, are -apologies for rivers in this part of the world. As some -of them are several miles in length, progress is very -difficult, and every moment I dreaded to see a new one. -However, I successfully dodged most of them, but had -some trouble with one a mile broad, which we eventually -passed by wading, the water being in places up to my -boys' necks. At one time my small boy, with my -revolver, prismatic compass, and coat, disappeared -completely, but was extricated by an obliging Dinka of -about 6 ft. 7 in. The prevalence of crocodiles, and a -slimy bottom pitted with elephant-holes, did not -facilitate matters.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Enormous numbers of Dinkas came to see me beaten -by this obstruction; and after two hours' exhausting -conversation in signs, during which I displayed all my -remaining trade goods, I had still failed to induce a -guide to show me the way across. In native fashion -they all wanted to see what I would do. At last, utterly -disgusted, I started to wade, intending to swim if we -could not manage otherwise, as I dare not waste the two -or three days that would be necessary to march round. -When they saw that I was quite determined, several came -with me and showed me the shallowest path across. -They were hugely delighted when I presented them with -a Jubilee medal and some beads, but said that they -dare not go any further, as the next village was not -their village, signifying that if they went they would be -speared. A short march soon brought us to the village -in question. The natives were rather nervous at first, -but soon brought us plenty of rotten fish and a little -milk. Here my surviving Ruanda man succumbed to -the attacks of the mosquitoes, which defied description; -he had been ailing for some time, and being too desperate -to keep them off, he was literally sucked dry. It was -absolutely necessary to turn in half an hour before sunset -and to make all the preparations possible for the night. -I piled all my belongings round the edge of my net, and -kept a green wood fire burning at each end: then I lay -inside, smoked native tobacco (of remarkable pungency), -and prayed for morning. As soon as the sun went down -they started operations. It was like having a tame -whirlwind in one's tent. They could not possibly have been -worse: had there been thousands more it would not -have mattered, as not a single one more could have found -room on any exposed part of one's anatomy. Every -night two or three hundred contrived to enter my net; -I have no idea how. The most pernicious and poisonous -kind was a very small black mosquito, that might -possibly have penetrated the mesh. I used to turn out -in the morning feeling perfectly dazed from the amount -of poison that had been injected during the night. The -natives of the country obviate the nuisance by lining -their huts with a deep layer of burnt cow-dung, in which -they lie. They also smear a paste made of this ash and -cow's urine all over their bodies. The women carefully -collect all the dung and spread it out to dry. In the -evening, when the cattle are brought in to be milked, -they burn it. The smoke serves to keep the flies from -the beasts during the milking. Then all the ash is -collected and placed in the huts.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Following the river, we made good progress till a halt -was called by the presence of a stupendous old bull -elephant with magnificent tusks, who was dozing on the -path. We shouted to him to get out of the way, and he -slowly turned round, stalked towards us, and when -within fifty yards curled up his trunk, spread his ears, -rumbled and came. Crash went every load, and I found -myself in a medley of tent and boxes, pots and pans, -with a double .303 loaded with soft-nosed bullets, looking -at him in amazement; but the shot fortunately turned -him, and away he went, screaming and trumpeting, -giving my blankets a parting kick as he swung round. -This is the only time I have seen one aggressive without -due cause. Owing to the absence of water and the -quantity of plum-trees, of which they are very fond, -there were enormous numbers of elephant along the -river-bank, and except where they were on the path -we scarcely noticed them, every day passing several -herds. I was wild when I thought of the prodigious but -futile efforts that Sharp and I made round the volcanoes -to find them, when we had porters galore, while now, -having no porters, I looked upon them as a nuisance, -owing to the delay they caused. Here, and for some -days afterwards, close to the line of bush, there was a -well-defined river with a stream of one and a half to two -miles an hour, which would be navigable for flat-bottomed -punts. The numbers of hippo were incredible, literally -thousands and thousands. At every two hundred yards -there was a great purple bank of twenty, fifty, or a -hundred lying with their bodies half exposed, while -others were wandering about in every direction on the -vegetation, islands, and mud-banks. They practically -ignored our presence, though we often passed within -ten yards of them. Other game was scarce; I only -saw a few waterbuck, bushbuck, and once the track of -a giraffe, though plenty of guinea-fowl, and a few ducks -and geese; but these were of little use, as, on opening -my last box of shot-cartridges, they fell to pieces, being -eaten through and through with rust. At one village -a native produced a recent number of </span><em class="italics">Black and White</em><span>, -carefully wrapped up in a piece of goatskin, and pointed -out with great glee a picture of Dreyfus; as I had no -interpreter, and the natives no longer understood my -ten words of pigeon Arabic, I have not the remotest -conception how it came into this outlandish spot. It -was very difficult to obtain supplies, owing to the general -famine, so I shot another elephant, which came down -to water near camp, and made my boys smoke a -three-days' supply of meat. The following day we saw two -large herds of elephant, one mainly composed of good -bulls. Some, showing splendid ivories, refused for a -long time to leave the path. We were compelled to -stone them. Then, making good progress, we camped -opposite a ferry, which led to an island where I could -see some natives. They quickly collected, and in a few -minutes there was a crowd of several hundred, with a -solid hedge of spears glinting in the sun. At first they -were very doubtful; then, suddenly realizing that it -was all right, they swarmed across, yelling and -whooping, and in one minute my diminutive camp was one -howling black mass. At first things looked rather -anxious, but some slaps on the back and a long-winded -repetition of arâm, which appears to be the local form -of salaam, quickly spread a broad grin over the mass; -they brought me a present of about thirty large fish, -and there was soon a brisk trade in milk, of which they -had an unlimited supply, so that all my men had a good -wholesome feed. They proved very friendly, and I -much regret that our conversation was strictly limited -to arâm, which, however, appears to have considerable -significance, being invariably responded to by much -grunting and a peculiar clucking noise like the soliloquy -of an old hen. Every one in Dinka-land carries a -long-bladed spear, a pointed fish-spear, and a club made of -a heavy purple wood, while the important gentlemen wear -enormous ivory bracelets round their upper arm; strict -nudity is the fashion, and a marabout feather in the -hair is the essence of </span><em class="italics">chic</em><span>. They are all beautifully -built, having broad shoulders, small waist, good hips, -and well-shaped legs. The stature of some is colossal. -It was most curious to see how these Dinkas, living as -they do in the marshes, approximate to the type of the -water-bird. They have much the same walk as a heron, -picking their feet up very high, and thrusting them well -forward. Their feet are enormous. Their colossal -height is, of course, a great advantage in the reed-grown -country in which they live. They are the complete -antithesis of the pigmy, as the country in which they -live is the complete antithesis of the dense forest that -is the home of the dwarfs. Many of these strange -African peoples form most interesting reading to a student -of evolution. The adaptability of a race to its surroundings -is wonderful. The favourite pose of a Dinka is in -reality the favourite pose of a water-bird. It is most -interesting to note that surroundings should produce a -similar type in families as remote from one another as -birds and men.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>My headman woke me in the morning with the pleasing -information that my home-sick criminal had disappeared -in the night, so the body of my tent had to go by the -board, a severe loss, as afterwards transpired. During -this day's march and a part of the next, the population -changed entirely, the well-bred Dinkas giving place to -a miserable fishing-folk, who are presumably the Woatsch -spoken of, as reported to live here, by Sir S. Baker. -They are an extraordinary people, of a very low stage -of civilization, and showed abject terror at the sight of -beads and cloth. I imagine they took me for a god, as -each village, man, woman, and child, persisted in -escorting me for a mile or so, doing the honours with a -deafening chant, and continually pointing to the sun; this, -though very flattering, hardly acted as a sedative on -my fever, and I was heartily thankful to leave them -behind; at one spot there must have been fully five -hundred men who formed a solid phalanx round me, -and sang at the top of their voices for a distance of two -miles. They appeared not to have the remotest conception -of barter, and hid their faces when I produced any -of my trade goods, so that it was impossible to buy any -food. Even during the night small bands approached -to a respectful distance and chanted, and at one -watering-place about a hundred loathsome hags danced a wild -fandango around me, uttering the shrillest cries -conceivable, and accompanying them with a measured flap-flap -of their long pendant dugs; then, as a grand finale, all -threw themselves on their faces at my feet, and with -one ear-piercing shriek dispersed into the bush, leaving -me under the impression that I was in the Drury Lane -pantomime, outside two bottles of champagne. Never -in all Africa had I met such embarrassing and impossible -people. In the intervals of these trying performances -I noticed that the country was slightly more elevated, -and that there was a profusion of large trees. This -would be the best position for a Government station. -But it soon settled down again into the dismal flat of -sun-baked clay, thorn, and palm-scrub, which in places -recedes, leaving large plains that are flooded in ordinary -seasons; here there were numbers of small buck, and I -saw a beautiful male </span><em class="italics">Cobus maria</em><span>. It was a most -handsome little beast, and was running with a large herd -of other waterbuck, and had the same action as the -Uganda kob. I was much disappointed, from lack of -porterage, to lose the opportunity of procuring such a -rare specimen. The variety of aquatic birds was -enormous; amongst others, a beautiful black-and-white ibis; -but I looked in vain for </span><em class="italics">Balæniceps rex</em><span>. The kites, -marabouts, and vultures were a great nuisance. On -several occasions a kite actually took my dinner out -of the frying-pan on the fire while the cook's back was -turned.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>After the singing gentry, it was with no little relief -that I met some respectable Dinkas again with large -herds of cattle; they, too, appeared to be ignorant of -the elements of barter, and it was only after an hour's -dumb-crambo business that they brought an antediluvian -fish as a feeler; this I immediately bought at -great price, and then they realized that there was -something in the idea, and brought a good supply. They -have absolutely none of the fear of, and respect for, the -white man that one finds all over Africa except in the -regions of Exeter Hall legislation, but merely regard one -as a great joke, and, on the whole, not such a bad sort -of fool. They are all the most inveterate, pertinacious, -and annoying beggars, and evince the greatest astonishment -when one refuses to distribute one's belongings -gratis amongst them. One in particular amused me, -a 6 ft. 4 giant, who took a fancy to my last pair of -trousers, and when, pleading modesty, I refused his -request, he stamped and howled like a spoilt child. He -then proceeded to make himself very objectionable, and -forced his way into my tent, refused to quit, and brandished -his club. This was too much, so I suddenly took him by -the scruff of the neck and the seat of where he wished -my trousers to be, and, trusting in the superiority of a -beef and beer diet over one of fish and thin milk, to his -intense amazement, ran him out of camp, and imparted -a final impetus with a double-barrelled drop-kick, backed -by a pair of iron-shod ammunition boots. I was -surprised to find how weak he was, despite his colossal -stature. The others took it as a huge joke, and an hour -afterwards he returned and behaved himself very well, -on the morrow guiding me for some miles.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>From here the country changes completely, opening -out into a limitless plain, dotted here and there with -clumps of borassus palm, growing on small, flat-topped -eminences which are the only possible camping-grounds. -The channel (which I christened the Gertrude Nile, and -which had never hitherto been more than half a mile -from the bush) bends away to the west and spreads out -into large marshes, though its course is still obvious, -and the plain, which is a mass of matted, half-burnt -reed, hippo and elephant holes, is scored with numerous -channels of water and mud, and towards the bush, which -is soon at least fifteen miles from the river, is covered -with small ant-hills. There is an enormous population -on these plains, with huge herds of cattle and goats, -though it is impossible to say where they live, and they -are wonderfully clever at hiding their cattle, and light -smoke fires to prevent them from making a noise. I -marched for hours without seeing a native, but when -pitching camp I could see hundreds and hundreds -advancing in Indian file from all directions, or if I took -a line that led far from water, a group would appear -like magic to put me right. There was something -uncanny about knowing that one was watched by hundreds -without ever seeing more than an occasional individual -perched on one leg, the other foot resting on his knee, -on the top of a far ant-hill, and looking like a long black -stork. The first day that I camped in the plain I was -visited by at least a thousand natives.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>With the exception of one or two slight fracas with -my boys, they were well-behaved, and I bought a large -supply of fish; but the second day about fifteen hundred -turned up, and having nothing to sell, became very -obstreperous. They tried to steal, so I ordered the -vicinity of my tent to be cleared, and hustled several -fairly roughly. One turned on me, and I knocked him -down, cutting my hand badly on his teeth. They took -my rough handling very well, but immediately resented -any movement of my boys, and one silly young blood -danced a dangerous war-dance, brandishing his spear -round one of my Askaris, till I broke it for him, and -gave him two or three reminders with a heavy -hippo-whip. They then became very much excited, and I -spent the rest of the afternoon with my hand on my -revolver, momentarily expecting a general </span><em class="italics">émeute</em><span>, when, -no doubt, we should have fared badly. Fortunately, -there were two respectable old gentlemen who did their -best to keep the younger blades quiet. One man bolted -with a bit of cloth; a miss-fire from my .303 saved his -life, and one of the old gentlemen, not knowing that I -had pulled the trigger, signed to me to hold, and had -the cloth fetched back; he then succeeded in clearing -the camp of about half the turbulent rabble, for which -I was very thankful. They then began to slowly file -off, but about a hundred, including some of the most -noisy ruffians, remained; these I quickly cleared with -a heavy whip in one hand and my revolver in the other. -They did not like the whip and smiled at the revolver, -evidently thinking it a sort of club, till I shot a -confiding marabout which was watching the proceedings, when -there was a race for first place to less dangerous quarters.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>On the march we came upon a belated hippo out on -the plain, and there was a great hunt, about two -hundred natives chasing him and plunging their spears into -his body, till at last, covered with blood, he turned to -bay, when I finished him off with a shot in the head.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>A few miles further on I shot a Senegal hartebeeste, -which gave us a supply of meat. On the third day we -succeeded in shaking off our too attentive friends, and -although we marched for six hours only made seven -miles, owing to the necessity of feeling one's way round -the swamps and the difficult nature of the ground. In -many places the burnt vegetation was of the consistency -of coke, and severely cut my boys' feet. The plain still -widened, and the Gertrude Nile tended more decidedly -towards the west. The bush was no longer visible, but -to the west of the swamps there appeared to be a slight -ridge with a dense covering of borassus.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>We camped near a cattle village, and the people seemed -friendly, though, as usual, somewhat turbulent. Two -came into the camp after dark, evidently to see if we -were on the alert, and were summarily ejected. In the -morning about a hundred came and gave considerable -trouble, and persisted in following us on the march. I -noticed that two or three were closing round each of -my boys, while at the same time about twenty were -packing behind me. I turned round to drive them off, -when my fools of Watonga were suddenly seized with a -panic, and, throwing their loads down, ran towards me, -shouting, "We are all lost!" Of course that started -the game, and my best Congo soldier fell, stabbed to -the heart, and two more went down with cracked skulls. -I took the chief and his right-hand man with a double -barrel, then turning round, found my boy had bolted -with my revolver. At the same moment a Dinka -hurled his spear at me; I dodged it, but he rushed in -and dealt me a swinging blow with his club, which I -fortunately warded with my arm, receiving no more damage -than a wholesome bruise. I poked my empty gun at -his stomach, and he turned, receiving a second afterwards -a Dum-dum in the small of his back. Then they broke -and ran, my army with eight guns having succeeded in -firing two shots. I climbed up a high ant-hill that was -close, and could see them watching at about three -hundred yards for our next move, which was an unexpected -one, for I planted a Dum-dum apparently in the stomach -of one of the most obtrusive ruffians, whom I recognized -by his great height. They then hurried off and bunched -at about seven hundred yards, and another shot, whether -effectual or not I could not see, sent them off in all -directions, and the battle was finished. It was all over -in a shorter time than it takes to tell the tale, but while -it lasted it was fairly warm. I never expected to see -my happy home again, nor did I feel much happier -when I had time to look round. I was alone; at my -feet lay my Congo Askari, in the last spasmodic shudder -of death; a few yards away lay three more of my men, -streams of blood slowly trickling from gaping wounds -in their heads. The distorted figures of the three -Dinkas, shot at close quarters, were the only other -breaks in the dismal monotony of the marsh. I shouted, -and slowly--one by one--my miserable curs emerged -from patches of reed and bog-holes. Then the three -wounded came-to from their swoon; one was very -slightly hurt, but the other two were quite mad for -days after. It was necessary, therefore, to throw away -still more of our belongings. There was only one thing -that could go, and that was Sharp's 60g. Holland and -Holland paradox, half of which is peacefully reposing -under some scrub, while the other half is at the bottom -of a mud-hole. After dressing the heads of the two -soldiers, who, with the trifling exception of insanity, -did not seem much the worse, one for a gash 2 in. long -and down to the bone on his temple, and the other for -two gaping holes on the top of his skull, we hurried on, -fearing the Dinkas might return </span><em class="italics">en masse</em><span>. But they -contented themselves with watching us, and when I -dropped the topmost man of a bunch of five on an -ant-hill at six hundred yards, they only made further -observations at a distance of a mile.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The news spread like wildfire, for, several miles further -on, when passing within half a mile of a village, a band -of ten old men came towards me, waving their arms in -the air to show that they were unarmed. I went to -meet them, and when quite close they started the old -singing business, so I hurried off, after treating them to -several arâms with an attempted pacific intonation. -They then sent milk after me, but I waved them off, -thinking it advisable to try by forced marches to break -the line of communication.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Shortly afterwards, crossing a swamp on a dangerous -bridge of weed burnt to the water level, I saw a specimen -of </span><em class="italics">Balæniceps rex</em><span> standing quite close to me. I was on -the point of firing, when a hippo put his head through -the bridge at about ten yards, and regretfully I had to -shoot him instead for his beef. Half a dozen Dinkas -appeared, and, after making a great pacific demonstration, -approached and helped to finish him off. He -took several shots, and each time I fired they ran to a -distance of at least two hundred yards, so they had -evidently heard of the morning's proceedings. After -cutting off some meat we continued our march, and it was -not till 4 p.m. that I found another place where it was -possible to camp, having buried most of my beads on -the road to further lighten the loads. For the same -purpose, in the evening I made a distribution of cloth -and burnt a quantity, together with all my boys' rags.</span></p> -<div class="align-center auto-scaled figure margin" style="width: 66%" id="figure-78"> -<span id="there-were-numbers-of-dinkas-fishing-here"></span><img class="align-center block" style="display: block; width: 100%" alt="THERE WERE NUMBERS OF DINKAS FISHING HERE." src="images/img-320.jpg" /> -<div class="caption centerleft figure-caption margin"> -<span class="italics">THERE WERE NUMBERS OF DINKAS FISHING HERE.</span></div> -</div> -<p class="pnext"><span>The night passed peacefully, though I thought it -advisable to put on a double sentry, and on the morrow, -weary of swamps, I struck east towards the great burnt -plain, and then marched due north, trusting to luck for -water. I found numerous holes where the water had -not quite dried up, and met many isolated groups of -desponding natives spearing a loathsome four-legged -reptile or fish, some of which, for lack of more delicate -fare, I had to eat; and after marching for about fifteen -miles, I again came on extensive swamps which stretched -far to the east, and seemed likely to give me much -trouble, if not to effectually prevent me going further. -Being totally ignorant of the country, and without -means of asking the simplest question of the natives, -I had been fearing all along that I should arrive at some -impassable obstacle. I was very anxious on this point, -as it would have been impossible to return. Arriving -unexpectedly on the edge of the first pool, I found it -one mass of small duck, with a spur-winged goose -standing up in the middle. I fired at him with my .303, and -he dropped, the bullet striking him with most unusual -noise. My boy, wading in, returned not only with the -goose, but also two duck. The bullet had struck the -goose's back, removing his intestines and half his breast, -then cut off the head and broken the wing of No. 1 duck, -and neatly cleaned No. 2. It was a Dum-dum, and -must have exploded like a shell. I have often noticed -that the bullets with the most penetration, such as the -solid, nickel-coated, and the Dum-dum, shatter small -animals and birds more effectually than the more -expansive bullets, such as the Jeffrey and the lead-nose. -This stroke of luck provided a very welcome change -to my mournful diet of doubtful fish, occasional milk -flavoured with cow's urine, which is used for washing -the dairy utensils, and a strange cheese of my own -manufacture.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>We camped on the top of a layer of burnt vegetation -overlying a morass, and my tent nearly disappeared in -the night, while I was seized with furious bouts of -vomiting, caused by the quantity of salt in the water. To -make matters more cheerful, I discovered that my last -two tins of tobacco were mouldy, and I only wished that -I could enjoy it as much as the mosquitoes appeared to -do, who settled in clouds on the rim of my pipe waiting -their turn for a space on my epidermis. Several either -climbed inside or bit me through a pair of ammunition -boots. I had a severe cold and a stiff arm; my cook -boy had dysentery; one of the Congo soldiers had a -dreadful foot, which rendered walking a terrible torture; -and the two gentlemen with cracked skulls were -semi-delirious, so that, on the whole, we were a jovial party, -our joviality being materially increased by the impossibility -of making a fire, owing to lack of fuel.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>In the morning we repeated the same tactics, and after -finding plenty of water early in the march, only reached -a camping-place at sunset. The country became slightly -more cheerful, several trees about the dimensions of a -healthy cabbage appearing on the horizon, and I saw -the spoor of several giraffe, though where the giraffe -themselves contrived to hide was more than I could -guess. Our camp was near a large village where there -were at least one thousand five hundred head of cattle, -besides sheep and goats, and the chief brought me a -fine fat bull-calf, which settled the nervous question of -food for two days. These people, too, had evidently -heard of the fracas, and only approached my camp in -small bands, for which I was very grateful.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>There were numbers of Dinkas fishing here. Their -method is as follows: About a dozen men, each taking -a large basket open at the bottom and with a hole at -the top, advance in line through the shallow portions -of the lagoon. Grasping the basket by the hole at the -top, they dash it down on to the mud in front of them. -I suppose if they catch a fish inside they pull it out -of the hole at the top. I never saw them catch one, -although they appeared to be quite hopeful.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The styles of coiffure affected by the Southern Dinkas -had now changed, the prevailing fashion being to wear -the hair long and frizzed out like a mop, while some of -the young exquisites caked it with a white clay brought -out to a peak behind. The rambling village, with its -groups of figures and long lines of home-coming cattle -dimly seen in the smoke of a hundred fires as I -approached at sunset, was very picturesque.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst" id="in-nuerland"><span class="bold large">CHAPTER XXI.</span></p> -<p class="center pnext"><span class="bold medium">IN NUERLAND.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>The following two days I still kept to the plain, on -the first day finding plenty of water, and -camping near a mud-trough where the water was flowing -west; but on the second day we wandered into a waterless -wilderness, and taking a north-west course marched -for hours before we reached a stream. Our sufferings -were intolerable, increased as they were by the salt -nature of the water which we had been drinking for -days. Half the boys fell by the road, and lay helpless -till relieved by the water I sent back. I was beginning -to despair of saving them, when from the only ant-hill -for miles I saw a flight of birds, and after an hour's -sharp burst I arrived at a large vlei, where to my joy -I found that the water was flowing north, and was less -salt. At an early stage of that day's march I had to -leave yet another load. Soon after starting I saw a -herd of at least four hundred hartebeeste, and on the -vlei, where we camped, the numbers of ducks, geese, and -pelicans were extraordinary. At my first shot I killed -two large spurwings, and a few more rounds provided -geese for all the camp, while I revelled in the luxury of -</span><em class="italics">pâté de foie maigre</em><span>; but the little plump teal, knowing -that I had no shot-gun, kept flighting backwards and -forwards in thousands. Two guns might have had an -evening's sport that they would have remembered for -a lifetime. A few miles from camp I met some Nuer -who had come to meet me. The chief, who was very -sociable, though, like all, an incorrigible beggar, had -been to Fashoda in the old times, and again my classic -Arabic came into play. He asked after Emin, and -seemed surprised to hear of his death, and also after -Wadelai and Lado, and was particularly anxious to -know if there was still a zariba at Bohr. He laid great -stress on this point, asking me over and over again, so -I imagined he wished to verify reports he had received -of the flight of the Dervishes.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The following day I marched to the junction of the -Kohr with the Bahr-el-Zaraf. In Justus Perthe's old -map it is suggested that this Kohr is the outlet of the -streams crossed by Lupton Bey in the hills east of -Gondokoro. This cannot be so, as the natives at Bohr -assured me that there was no water many days east; -and if these streams are the feeders of this Kohr, they -must, by the contour of the country, pass close to Bohr. -Nor could the channel be dry, as the Kohr held plenty -of water. Hence I am inclined to think that Lupton's -streams either flow into the Nile south of Bohr, or pass -down the other side of the watershed into the Pibro, -the largest tributary of the Sobat. As Lupton went -overland from Gondokoro to Bohr, and does not mark -any significant feeder of the Nile, it is probable that the -latter hypothesis is correct. That is, that they flow -into the vast marsh recently located as the headwaters -of the Pibro. If this is correct, the Kohr must also -drain out of the Pibro marsh, in which case the country -between the Sobat and the Bahr-el-Zaraf is an island.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The whole length of the bank was cut up with giraffe -and elephant spoor, and as I could see for miles and -miles in every direction and never saw one, I suppose -they come great distances for water. The Kohr, though -evidently from the exposed mud-flats of considerable -width in the rains, was here not more than twenty -yards wide and four feet deep; and the numbers of -hippo and clouds of pelicans and cranes made sleep -almost impossible.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The surrounding country assumed a little more -character, long lines of palm-trees enlivening the awful -monotony of that heart-breaking plain. The Nuer, -though well-set-up, appear not to have the same unusual -stature as the Dinkas; they wear circlets of cowries -round their hair, which they grow long like a mop; -the woolly buttons of the negroid, though visible from -time to time up till now, have quite disappeared. -Nothing impressed me so much as the vast flocks of birds. -With five shots from a rifle I killed three geese, eight -duck, and two pelicans, and that from camp: had I -fired at some of the flocks I saw on the march I might -have doubled the result.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Following the river, which has a very devious course, -I saw large numbers of natives, and they were all very -friendly, insisting on indulging in the trying practice of -spitting in one's hand or on one's chest, which signifies -intense respect; the Dinkas have the same objectionable -custom.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>For two days I saw numbers of natives with large -herds of cattle and plenty of small palm-tree canoes, -but a very limited supply of grain, and on the third day -I came to a small Kohr with about a dozen large -villages. Hundreds of natives came out to meet me, and -I had some difficulty in driving them off, as, confident -in their numbers, they were inclined to be boisterous.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>A few miles further on, one of my Congolese soldiers, -who, against all orders, lagged behind a few minutes, -mysteriously disappeared, and an exhaustive search -failed to find any trace either of him or of natives. The -country was very open, and he was carrying a rifle, so -they must have spirited him away very cleverly. From -here to the mouth of the Zaraf there is only one village, -so that for food I was entirely dependent on my rifle. -At first there was no difficulty, as the river swarmed -with hippo, and there were numbers of hartebeeste, -Mrs. Gray's waterbuck, leucotis, reedbuck, waterbuck, -and roan. A magnificent bull of the latter species I -at first took to be a sable, owing to the extraordinary -length of his horns, and with the cussedness of his kind -he stood and watched us all pass at a distance of thirty -yards. But for several days afterwards I had the -greatest difficulty in obtaining meat, subsisting entirely -on pelicans, one day being even reduced to marabout -soup, and it was not till within thirty miles of the mouth -that I again came into a game country, where the bush -comes down to the river. Here I saw numerous giraffe, -and one day marched for hours through small herds of -cow elephant. It was curious that I saw nothing but -bulls on the Nile swamps, while on the Zaraf there were -huge numbers of breeding cows, and I only saw the -spoor of a very few bulls, and those were mostly small. -For days the muddy tide rolls slowly on between banks -of sun-baked mud, unrelieved by swamps or vegetation. -The flocks of birds no more break the depressing -monotony, naught but great, loathly crocodiles, that slip -without a sound into the turgid flow, bald-pated -marabouts, and screaming kites. No sign of hope; a vast -reserve for God's foulest creatures, and a fitting one. -Ye gods, what a land! The old boyhood's desire to -shriek and break something that invariably recurred -on Sunday morning broke out afresh, and I felt that I -was near that indefinable boundary beyond which is -madness.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>About thirty miles south of the Abiad an extensive -Kohr, which was dry when I passed, flows into the Zaraf. -Close by there is a small ridge a few feet above the level -of the surrounding country; here I camped and saw a -great variety of game. Four giraffe came and peered -over a bush at me while I was having my bath, and -thoroughly enjoyed the novel spectacle. They showed -no inclination to move away, and I had a splendid chance -of having a good look at them. The situation was -quaint. It struck me as an admirable study for René -Bull or Mr. Shepherd.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Soon after sunset two grand old lions commenced -calling to one another, and I could hear them gradually -approaching across the plain. They met about a mile -from my camp, and after a round of hearty greetings, -settled down into silence. As the wind was in their -direction, I ordered all my boys up close to my tent -and made two large fires. They still remained silent, -so I knew that they were near; but after waiting some -time I concluded that they did not mean business, and -turned in. I had only just crept inside my mosquito-curtain -when the sentry called out to me that they -were in camp. I scrambled out, but was just too late! -They had calmly strolled past in the full light of the -fire, and I saw a tail disappear round the corner of a -bush. Snatching up a blazing log, we dashed out, but, -of course, never saw them, as there was too much bush; -however, they were not in a hurry, and an occasional -sniff showed that they were still inspecting, but they -would not show in the firelight again, and, whenever I -went out, sneaked off, till, getting tired of the game, -they strolled away grumbling across the plain, and -treated me to a farewell roar that will long linger in -my ears as Savage Africa's farewell!</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>For on the morrow my troubles ended. We were -plodding wearily along, wondering how to tide over the -next four days, which I had estimated as the time necessary -to reach the Sobat, when I saw in the far distance a -curved pole swaying in the wind. For a long time it -puzzled me; then I realized that it must be the mast of -a boat, but dared not believe it, though certain that no -palm-stem could swing to that angle. Presently I saw -figures moving to and fro, and then one in white cloth, -and soon we had evidently been noticed. A short -council of war took place, and then an unmistakable -Soudanese soldier came out to meet me, carefully -inserting a cartridge in his rifle as he approached. -Throwing my rifle on to my left shoulder, with a conciliatory -and pacific smile I advanced with outstretched hand, -and evidently convinced him that I was at least -harmless, for with a 3 ft. 6 grin he drew his cartridge and -shook the proffered hand with vigour. I learned that -Captain Dunn, R.A.M.C., was up the Zaraf for a few -days' shooting, and that he was expected back in camp -in a few minutes.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>I could scarcely believe that it was all over, that my -troubles were ended! Those four days, that I -imagined still remained, had been a nightmare to me. All -my men were sick; the majority of them had to be -pushed along at the point of the spear, to prevent them -from lying down and giving up the struggle. There were -no more hippo and very little game: all our grain had -long been exhausted, and but two pipefuls of sour tobacco -remained. And then, at a sudden bend of the river, -all this nightmare was dispelled! It was over! From -being so long without vegetables, my hands had begun -to turn black, and the continual anxiety of the last -month, day and night, had told its tale on my nerves. -With what unspeakable content I sat down and waited -for Dunn's arrival it would be impossible to describe. I -had not to wait long, for a few minutes later Captain -Dunn emerged from the bush. The following -conversation ensued:--</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Captain Dunn: "How do you do?"</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>I: "Oh, very fit, thanks; how are you? Had any sport?"</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Dunn: "Oh, pretty fair, but there is nothing much -here. Have a drink? You must be hungry; I'll hurry -on lunch. Had any shooting? See any elephant?"</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Then we washed, lunched, discussed the war, and -eventually Dunn asked where the devil I had come from, -saying that at first he had taken me for another -confounded Frenchman, and was trying to hunt up some -French. All this six hundred odd miles from anywhere -in the uttermost end of the earth--the Nile swamps. -Verily we are a strange people. How De Tonquedec, -the Frenchman, laughed at the tale!</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Then we dropped slowly down-stream in the boat, and -in the light of the myriad stars discussed the strange -world into which the Father Nile was slowly carrying -me. A whirl of thoughts made sleep impossible, and -as I pondered over many things I thought long on the -Fashoda incident. In the course of a chequered career -I have seen many unwholesome spots; but for a -God-forsaken, dry-sucked, fly-blown wilderness, commend me -to the Upper Nile; a desolation of desolations, an -infernal region, a howling waste of weed, mosquitoes, -flies, and fever, backed by a groaning waste of thorn -and stones--waterless and waterlogged. I have passed -through it, and have now no fear for the hereafter. -And for this choice spot thousands of homes might -have been wrecked, and the whole of civilization rushed -into a cockpit of mutual slaughter. Let me recommend -France to send the minister responsible for the Marchand -expedition for a short sojourn in the land: no fitter -punishment could be found. What a sensible idea it -would be if ministers of rival nations, foreseeing a -dispute, were to buy in a large store of choice wines and -cigars, leave them at home, and decide to spend the -time, till the dispute should be amicably settled, in the -bone of contention.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst" id="the-sobat-to-cairo"><span class="bold large">CHAPTER XXII.</span></p> -<p class="center pnext"><span class="bold medium">THE SOBAT TO CAIRO.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>I awoke in the morning to find the gyassa[#] moored -off the base camp of Major Peake's sudd-cutting -expedition. Close by lay a trim, smart-looking -gun-boat. AH was bustle and stir on board, and it was -obvious that they were getting up steam. I drank in the -sight, momentarily expecting to see it fade before my -eyes, and to find myself once more wearily plodding -through those maddening swamps. The transition from -ceaseless anxiety and hungry misery to full-bellied -content and tobacco-soothed repose had been so sudden; -I was as a man who, after long time staggering in the -dark, is suddenly thrust into the full glare of sunlight, -and could hardly grasp that it was at last all over. -Nothing to do but sit and be carried along towards clean -shirts, collars, glasses, friends--all that makes life a -thing of joy. How many people realize what all these -things mean? How many people have ever caught -the exquisite flavour of bread-and-butter? the restful -luxury of clean linen? the hiss of Schweppe's? One -must munch hippo-meat alone, save one's sole shirt -from contact with water as from a pestilence lest it fall -to pieces, and drink brackish mud for days, to realize -all this. Sensations are but contrasts, and in the strong -picture contrasts must be strong. We all have our -allotted portions of black and white paint; how we lay -it on is a question of temperament. One mixes the -pigments carefully and paints his life an even grey. -Another dashes in the light and shade with a palette-knife. -Such an one is the wanderer in strange climes.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="noindent pfirst"><span class="small">[#] Nile sailing-boat.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>Captain Hayes-Sadler, the Governor of Fashoda, was -in command of the gunboat, and kindly offered to take -me down to Khartoum. They told me that Captain -Gage, Dr. Milne, Commandant Henri, Lieut. Bertrand, -and Lieut. de Tonquedec had all passed about four days -before. De Tonquedec, a most delightful and -entertaining man, was the last Frenchman to evacuate the -Nile. He had been sent up to supplement the -occupation begun by Marchand, and had done by far the -finest work of all. No undertaking has ever been more -absurdly overrated than Marchand's expedition to -Fashoda. It was seized upon by the military party, and -boomed to the echo as a set-off to the Dreyfusards. As -a matter of fact, he never touched an inch of new country, -but merely carried out successfully a very able bit of -transport organization with everything in his favour--sound -lieutenants, unlimited funds, and one of the -best-equipped expeditions that ever set foot in Africa, -supported by excellent native troops in his Senegalese. -All the labour of the country was retained for him, and -compulsion used where there was any difficulty in -obtaining carriers. Hundreds of miles of navigable water -took his goods almost to the Congo-Nile divide, and -thence it was simply a question of moving from post to -post till the watershed was crossed, and he could place -his boats on the navigable waters of the Nile. The -only real difficulty, that of reoccupying the -Bahr-el-Ghazal posts, had been already accomplished by the -Belgians, whom the French kicked out. Once on the -navigable Nile, they had but to go with the current -till they reached Fashoda; the waters of the -Bahr-el-Ghazal and Lake No happening to be comparatively -free from sudd obstructions. They were strong enough -to defy resistance at the hands of the Shilluks, who -have nothing but ambatch canoes, and once entrenched -at Fashoda they would have been poor creatures if they -could not have beaten off a handful of Dervishes. As -an able example of African transport it stands in the -van of similar undertakings, but as a daring or -dangerous feat it does not stand in the same class as Gage -and Milne's descent of the Nile, or De Tonquedec's -performance. His duty was a most hazardous one, as, -with nothing but a handful of Senegalese and a -sous-officier, he penetrated overland through the terrible -Dinkas to the Upper Nile, and occupied Gaba Shambeh. -Marchand is a world-word. When I arrived at -Marseilles and inquired after De Tonquedec, nobody had -ever heard of him.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Fortune favoured me when I started on the descent -of the Nile. I knew that Khartoum had fallen, but -nothing more. I had imagined that the Redjaf Dervishes -were still occupying Bohr and the Upper Nile, and that -the Khalifa was still at large on the Fashoda district -of the Nile. But shortly after I started the Dervishes -fled from Bohr before the advance of the Belgians, and -while I was wearily plodding along, Sir Francis Wingate -killed the Khalifa, and annihilated the Dervish army -at Om Debrikat. The Abyssinians had finally retired -from the Sobat, and by this happy combination of luck -I had a clear route, though I did not know it, and my -anxiety lest I should unexpectedly stroll into a Dervish -or Abyssinian camp was considerable. Captain -C. G. Steward, R.A., D.S.O., was in command of the base -camp, and was sadly fretting at having had his orders -to proceed to South Africa cancelled.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>There were several gunboats employed on the sudd-cutting -operations. Many of the Dervish prisoners had -been sent south for the work, and were looking -uncommonly well, which speaks volumes for the efficient -transport system. The method of procedure was as -follows:--The sudd, which at times is 30 ft. thick and -sufficiently solid for the elephant to pass over, was cut -into large blocks. A wire hawser was then attached, -and the mass was pulled away by two steamers. When -it floated clear it was cut up, and allowed to drift away -with the stream. Many of these floating masses had -accumulated opposite the base camp, and bade fair to -form another sudd obstruction. In places where a -portion was cut out, the water from the pressure caused -by the pent-up river surged forth like a wave, bringing -up water-logged canoes, bloated crocodiles, and various -other unexpected apparitions. The fish rose in -incredible swarms to these breathing-places. At one place -the men took off their loose trousers, tied the ends, -and baled out over four hundred large fish in less than -an hour. The work was so hard that no one had time -to get fever, and the health of the expedition had been -excellent. After several months of desperate toil, the -undertaking is now happily completed, and there is a -clear riverway from Khartoum to Redjaf; and Fort -Berkeley, the outpost of the Uganda Protectorate, -instead of being nearly four months from Mombasa, -is now within one month of Cairo. A weekly service -of steamers should effectually prevent the sudd from -re-forming. By judicious treatment, possibly on the -lines that I have suggested in a subsequent chapter, -the waterway might be made permanent, and its navigable -facilities greatly improved. There is, undoubtedly, -as pointed out by Gordon, the great difficulty of fuel, -but probably in the near future oil will obviate this.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>A few hours' steaming took us past the Sobat junction, -where there is now but a small post of Soudanese -under a native officer, and to the world-famed Fashoda. -Here I handed over the first trans-continental post-bag, -which I had brought through with me, to Captain -Hayes-Sadler, who stamped the post-cards with the -gorgeous red seal of Fashoda. Here, too, I received -the first letter that had reached me for eighteen months, -in which I learned that my oldest friend had fallen at -Glencoe, at the very beginning of the war--to wit, -Lieut. John Taylor, of the King's Royal Rifles. Curiously -enough, the last letter that I had received on leaving -civilization had been from him. Verily Africa is an -accursed land. Many of the good friends whom I had -met during our journey have already gone, and again -and again I hear of fresh gaps in the chain.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>I went and looked at the little French fort built of -bricks that were taken from the ruined buildings of -Fashoda. It is a very insignificant structure, and I -should have been very sorry to be inside with a -seven-pounder playing on the fort. There are still a few -pawpaw trees planted by Marchand, the shrivelled fruit -of which we took on board, and utilized as vegetable -marrows. The Rek or King of the Shilluks lives near -Fashoda; he is the descendant of a hundred kings, or -something of that kind. I am not sure that his pedigree -does not go back to the time of the Pharaohs. I had -the pleasure of seeing his mop-headed Majesty ride past, -attended by numerous courtiers. The Shilluk villages -are about a mile away from the channel of the Nile, to -avoid being flooded during the rains. The Dervishes -kidnapped many thousands of the flower of their youth -for military service. The Rek is a delightful old -gentleman, and presented Captain Hayes-Sadler with an order -not unconnected with crocodiles. The Shilluks are a -most moral people, and live contentedly under an ample -code of laws admirably suited to their social condition -and mode of life. Any attempt to interfere with the -belief and customs of such a people seems unwise. In -view of the appalling misery and want at home, it is -difficult to justify the large sums of money spent in -upsetting the, in many cases, admirable existing state -of society in Africa. Centuries have evolved a state of -society most suitable to the surroundings and -conditions of life. Why try to upset it? On the voyage -down to Fashoda I saw many Shilluk fishermen wading -in the shallow water, and endeavouring to spear fish. -The spear used is of great length, and the pointed end -is tied back to form a bow, by which means the point -is induced to run along the top of, instead of sticking -into, the mud. It seemed an unprofitable business, -but, like most natives, they appear quite hopeful. They -train their hair into gigantic mops, and dye it red with -cow-dung. Many of the men have splendid features, -and are extremely handsome. They hunt the hippo -with great daring, pursuing the beasts in tiny ambatch -canoes, which are often broken up by the infuriated -bulls. They plunge a barbed spearhead into the skin, -and then paddle ashore with the end of the attached -rope; every one lends a hand, and the struggling brute -is eventually hauled ashore and despatched.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>North of Fashoda we saw many herds of waterbuck, -hartebeeste (</span><em class="italics">Senegalensis?</em><span>), and roan grazing on the -flats which lie between the marshy banks and the bush. -One evening I was standing on deck, and noticed ahead -of the steamer an animal sitting on the top of the bank -watching us. As we passed alongside, it moved, and -we saw that it was a splendid leopard. It strolled away -quite unconcernedly, watching us round its shoulder, -and slowly swishing its long tail to and fro; then it -went and sat under a tree, whence it lazily regarded -us till we were out of sight. At Djebel Ain we had to -leave the gunboat, as the extraordinarily low Nile -prevented steamers from crossing the ford, and we were -forced to proceed to the next navigable stretch in a -large gyassa or native boat. Djebel Ain is the end of -the northern telegraph line, and I could at last wire -and relieve the anxiety of my friends and relations. It -was just fourteen months since I had left the end of -the southern, or Mr. Rhodes's, section. Hayes-Sadler's -Soudanese orderly, who looked after me, was a most -delightful old gentleman. He could not quite -understand me, and was continually demanding explanations -of me: "Whence comes he, this man?" "Is he a -soldier?" Hayes-Sadler explained that I was not, but -was travelling for the pleasure of seeing the country. -"Ah! you are a strange people, you English Effendis: -how comes it that he wears not the moustache even as -the other Effendis?" He was informed that I was of -a slightly different ginss (tribe) to the others, and was -quite satisfied at the explanation. After that he -referred to me as "the Great White Effendi from the -South." "He is a strange man, and verily comes from -afar; yet I like that man--I look upon him as the apple -of my eye," he informed his master. He was a splendid -fellow, and I much enjoyed his polite and gentlemanly -attentions after the dirty creatures with whom I had -so long been in contact.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>At the northern end of the ford we found the steamer -waiting for us, and I first met Captain Gage and -Dr. Milne, of whom I had heard so much. We were a -numerous and jolly party on board, and with the -exception of a morning's sand-grouse shooting, in the -course of which eight guns bagged something over one -hundred and fifty brace in a couple of hours, we arrived -without further incident at Omdurman. Here we were -bewildered with true Egyptian Army hospitality, and -our time was spent in wildly flying from mess to mess.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The Sirdar gave a great dinner, at which he invited -all the British and Egyptian commanding officers to -meet the "tourists" from the south. Our simultaneous -arrival was an extraordinary coincidence: Milne and -Gage from the east, De Tonquedec, Bertrand, and Henri -from the west, I from the south, and Hayes-Sadler from -the north, and that in what was almost the uttermost -end of the earth. After the dinner there was a great -Soudanese dance; all the battalions broke up into their -tribes and danced their tribal dances by torchlight: -the spectacle was most weird. Sir Francis Wingate -kindly asked me to stay with him at the Palace, which -is already nearly completed.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The Soudan railway soon carried us down to Wady -Halfa, thence a steamer to Assuan, and again the -railway, and we once more stood in the roar of multitudes -at the station in Cairo. And now it is all over. A few -dangers avoided, a few difficulties overcome, many -disappointments, many discomforts, and those glorious -days of my life are already dim in the haze of the past. -Here I stand, in the prosaic land of certainty and -respectability! But far, far away, on those Urema flats, -where the night-wind sighs to the grazing herds, my -thoughts soar to the plaintive wail of the fish-eagle, and -my heart throbs in unison with the vast sob-sob of the -grandest of all created beasts, that mighty sound that -is the very spirit of the veld, the great untrammelled -field of Nature, far from all carking cares, pettiness, -hypocrisy, and cant: where men may stretch themselves -in generous emulation, find their apportioned level, -and humbly worship at the great shrine of creation.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst" id="the-trans-continental-railway"><span class="bold large">CHAPTER XXIII.</span></p> -<p class="center pnext"><span class="bold medium">THE TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILWAY.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>Of the railway as far as Tanganyika I will say little, -as I did not follow the route that has been -selected. Its main scheme is already laid down.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>But the route to be followed beyond the south end -of Tanganyika is another matter, and one that will -need much discussion.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Mr. Rhodes told me that he intended to take it across -from Ujiji to the south end of the Victoria Nyanza, -where presumably it would connect with Uganda and -the rail-head of the Mombasa railway at Ugowe Bay -by steamers. Thence it would pass through the Lake -Rudolph district and along the western base of the -Abyssinian highlands to the Blue Nile. The arguments for -this route are wood-supply, the supposed wealth and -the supposed comparative salubrity of the countries -traversed. Before offering my suggestion it win be -advisable to inquire into the aims and objects of the Cape -to Cairo railway. As far as I have seen, no individual -of those who furiously denounce or optimistically -uphold the project has ever grasped the real essential of -such a connection; they have either sneered at it as a -wild dream, or concluded that it is intended to run as an -opposition means of transport to the ocean liners. This, -of course, it will never do, nor yet is it a wild dream. -The railway and the telegraph are to be the vertebra -and spinal cord which will direct, consolidate, and give -life to the numerous systems that will eventually connect -the vast central highroad with the seas.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Building railways is a speculation, but one that up to -date has proved very satisfactory in Africa. There is -a saying that "trade follows the flag," but I think it -would be more correct to say that "the flag reluctantly -follows trade," and I know that "trade hurries along in -front of the railway." The amount of small industries -and unexpected traffic that crop up on the advent of the -railway is wonderful; I suppose because there is no trade -in virgin Africa strictly speaking, and the line wakes it -to life by opening up new possibilities and ideas to the -native.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Until the railway comes no one can judge of the -capabilities of the country; it lies dormant. The appalling -transport question, the inaccessibility, and the high cost -of living weigh too heavily upon the land. The magic -talisman, gold, alone will lead men far from touch with -civilization.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>But apart from all commercial considerations, on -moral grounds alone the railway or a through -connection is an immediate necessity--in fine, a duty -inseparable from the responsibilities that we have assumed. -Lord Salisbury, in speaking of the Uganda railway, -recognizes this when he says: "That" (</span><em class="italics">i.e.</em><span> the -completion of the railway) "means the subjugation, and -therefore the civilization, of the country. Nothing but -that railway could give us a grip of the country which -would enable us to take the responsibility of such a vast -extent of territory."</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>No other system than the through connection would -have the same wide-reaching influence for the same -expenditure; and the start that its completion will -give to radiating enterprise is incredible. It is but the -vertebral principle in Nature, and applies as surely to a -continent as to a worm.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The moral obligation, I repeat, is immediate and -inseparable from our bounden duty to develop the country, -to "subjugate" and thereby "civilize" the natives, and -thus justify our assumption of rights in Africa.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>But I also feel convinced that commercially the -enterprise is sound. It is, of course, well-nigh impossible to -form estimates of returns in a country that is absolutely -stagnant, reposing in abysmal depths of barbarism; but -the soil is there, the climate is there, the wild luxuriance -of Nature is there, the labour is there, and it needs but -the magic touch of the railway to weld them all into -one producing whole. It is experimental, I allow, but -all enterprise is based on experiment. We are too apt -to take things as they are, and not to inquire into what -things were before, and by analogy what things similarly -placed are likely to become. We reason--"Africa is -a waste; India is a garden; and India will remain a -garden, and Africa will remain a waste." The day is -not far distant when Africa will pour out her wealth -of cattle, grain, minerals, rubber, cotton, sugar, copra, -spices, and a thousand other products to a grateful -world. And over and above this, will give a home of -comfort to millions of Europeans now suffocated by -lack of breathing-space, and afford a field of investment -for the pent-up millions of capital that are crowding -returns down to an impossible minimum. What better -advertisement to draw these millions into circulation -than a railway opening up the unknown!</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The extension of the railway northwards from -Buluwayo through the Mafungabusi, Sengwe, and Sangati -coal-fields and the Bembesi, Lower Sebakwe, and Lower -Umfuli gold-finds is, of course, a commercial certainty; -and the second section through the notoriously wealthy -Lo Maghonda gold-field is equally assured. But beyond -that, after it crosses the Zambesi at the Victoria Falls, all -estimates must be mainly hypothetical. The Katanga -copper-fields, the enormous quantities of rubber, which -are now giving such magnificent returns to the few -traders in the country, and the recently-reported -gold-finds by Mr. George Grey augur well for the future; -but I cannot agree with Mr. Rhodes in some of his -contentions urged on an unresponsive Government as -arguments for their support of the northern extension.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>He urges the native labour question, hoping to bring -large supplies of natives south to work in the mines. -This wholesale exportation and importation of labour, I -am sure, is most pernicious to the general welfare of -the country. It raises the cost of labour throughout -the districts affected, and, as I have attempted to show -elsewhere, is bound eventually to bring all labour up -to the highest rate that has been obtained.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Say, for the sake of argument, that there are ten -thousand natives in Buluwayo working for £4 a month, and -ten thousand natives are induced to come south from -Tanganyika, having contracted to work for so many -months at 10s. a month. The Tanganyika natives will -discover the current rates at Buluwayo, and will think -that they have been swindled; if they do not break out -into open revolt, they will return to their homes and -spread the news, thereby prevent others from coming -south at the 10s. figure, and raise the price of labour -in their country far above its original level of 3s. a -month. More may be induced to go at, say 30s. a -month, and thus by degrees the price of labour throughout -Africa south of Tanganyika will rise to £4. The -original Buluwayo native will never work for less than -the £4, and if crowded out by the imported natives, will -form a most turbulent element in the country, and still -the rate will go on rising. Exactly this process is going -on now, but gradually, owing to the number of natives -who come south being insignificant compared to what -it would be with the facilities offered by a railway.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>If the natives can be induced to settle, well and good. -But it is not right that other districts should be made -to pay for the administrative follies of districts which -have not tackled the native question in the beginning. -But more than this, the natives whom Mr. Rhodes -wishes to bring to the mines do not exist; the country -between the Zambesi and, Tanganyika is not densely -populated as a whole, and even now the labour supply -is not adequate to the demand on the Tanganyika -plateau.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Again, he urges that the line will benefit the British -Central Africa Protectorate by affording a means of -transport of greater regularity and efficiency than the -present system of river transport. This will never be. -With organization and concentration the river route to -Nyassaland will have no equal in South Africa for -cheapness. From Chickwawa to Chinde at the mouth -of the Zambesi there is an uninterrupted waterway of -two hundred and fifty miles. It is obvious that a -railway, two thousand miles long, with considerable haulage -to the railway, can never compete with a waterway of -two hundred and fifty miles. But he touches the right -note again when he points out the necessity for providing -against a repetition of the horrors of the Matabele -rebellion with the turbulent tribes north of the Zambesi. -The Angoni may yet, and the Awemba certainly will, -prove a most turbulent element in society in Northern -Rhodesia.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Such are roughly the pros and cons of the question of -the advisability of a through connection.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>From Cape Town to Buluwayo, a distance of one -thousand three hundred and sixty miles, the railway is -completed, and already giving handsome returns for the -capital invested. From Buluwayo there will be a line -passing through Gwelo to Salisbury to connect the Beira -line, which, owing to its comparatively short mileage, -will tap much of the commerce of Rhodesia.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The main line will branch north-west from Buluwayo, -pass through the district of the Guay river, and cross -the Zambesi at the Victoria Falls, where the curious -formation will offer but slight difficulty to the construction -of a bridge. Thence it will pass north to a point -near Sitanda on the Upper Kafukwe, and east along the -Congo-Zambesi watershed to a point near the Loangwa -river, then again north along the watershed till it crosses -the Chambesi, and from there to Kituta at the south -end of Lake Tanganyika.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Thus far is a practical certainty of the next few years, -the distance yet to be spanned amounting to eight -hundred and sixty miles.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Beyond Kituta there is room for discussion. A -splendid waterway of four hundred miles leads to the mouth -of the Rusisi river, which might be navigated for thirty -miles. This, however, might be rendered inadmissible -by the existence of a bar which I consider probable, in -which case the lake steamer could not navigate the river, -as flat-bottomed boats cannot weather the seas on these -lakes. Usambora would be the most suitable port at -the north end, and from here a light railway could be -laid for sixty miles along the flat bottom of the Rusisi -valley with no more difficulty than the Soudan railway -was laid.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>From this point to Lake Kivu, which would be best -touched at the loch immediately to the west of Ishangi, -the distance is thirty miles, and a rise in level of 2,000 -ft. has to be negotiated. But the configuration of the -eastern valley, which I have mentioned as the probable -old course of the Rusisi, would to a certain extent -facilitate the sudden rise.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>From this point to the bay at the north-eastern corner -of the lake there is an excellent waterway of sixty miles. -From this bay a light railway would pass through the -neck between Mounts Götzen and Eyres, having to rise -a further 2,000 ft. to the highest point that the line would -attain to throughout its entire length. Thence by easy -gradients it would drop to the Albert Edward Plains, -which lie 3,000 ft. below the crest of the pass. Although -this drop takes place in a distance of twenty miles, the -contours of the country offer every facility. The line -would then pass along under the eastern wall of the -trough up the eastern side of the Albert Edward, across -the narrow neck of Lake Ruisamba, and thence to Fort -Gerry, or probably round the west of Ruwenzori and -down the Semliki valley to the Albert Lake. It will be -seen that I ignore the waterway afforded by the Albert -Edward, although seventy-five miles long. I will -explain my reasons subsequently. The objection to -utilizing the Semliki valley is that, owing to the supineness -of the British Government, it is in the Congo territory. -Why we should have deviated from our policy of -insisting on our rights in the Nile valley at this point I -never could imagine, unless the ministers or delegates -responsible were ignorant of the fact that the Semliki is -as much a portion of the Nile as is the Bahr-el-Djebel. -It is the obvious route for the railway, being the course -of the huge rift valley that contains all these lakes, and -although there is a drop of 1,500 ft. before the level of -the Albert Lake is reached, it has immense advantages -over the Fort Gerry route. Passing by Fort Gerry, the -line would have to climb 2,000 ft. and then descend -3,000 ft. down the precipitous face that hems in the -Semliki valley north-east of Ruwenzori proper. Another -most important point in favour of the Semliki valley is -that it is densely wooded, while to the east there is very -little wood.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>From the south end of Lake Albert to Dufilé at the -head of the rapids there is a waterway of two hundred -miles. From Dufilé to Redjaf the river is broken and -rendered unnavigable by about one hundred miles of -shallows and rapids. This stretch would have to be -spanned by another light railway which would branch -and tap the Shuli country to the east. Finally from -Redjaf there is an uninterrupted watenvay of one -thousand miles to Khartoum, whence there is rail and steamer -communication with Cairo. As an alternative to this, -the Dufilé-Redjaf line could be continued at very trifling -cost across country to the Sobat Junction, which would -perhaps be necessary to avoid the navigation and fuel -difficulties of the Bahr-el-Djebel waterway. The line -could be carried slightly to the east of my route through -the swamps, and the hard, flat, well-wooded bush country -presents no difficulties to railway construction. I -was debarred from passing that way by the dearth of -water consequent on the extraordinary drought. Such -is the route that appears to me to have undoubted -advantages. When once Kituta is reached, now merely -a matter of a few years, a further construction of four -hundred and ten miles of railway will render steam -communication between the Cape and Cairo an accomplished -fact. The scarcity of fuel on this route has been -suggested as a difficulty. I will now return once more -to Kituta, and point out the fuel centres on the line I -have suggested.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>There are ample forests on both shores of Tanganyika, -which will afford an inexhaustible supply of fuel for ages. -By utilizing the waterway both shores are tapped, and -the well-nigh insurmountable obstacles to railway -construction offered by the precipitous mountains that hem -in the lake are turned.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>From Tanganyika to Kivu there are no difficulties, -with the exception of the rise that I have mentioned -just south of the Kivu Lake. Again, by utilizing the -Kivu Lake enormous difficulties are avoided in the -impossible country that surrounds the lake. The hills are -very high, very steep, very numerous, very erratic, and -often disconnected by ridges or any gradients that would -assist construction. Immediately north of the lake the -country again becomes easy, and another inexhaustible -supply of fuel is found on the volcanoes, while the -country is extremely rich, and wonderfully healthy, and -carries the densest population that I have seen in Africa.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The Rutchuru valley offers no difficulties, and another -fuel country is found at the south-eastern corner of the -Albert Edward Lake, while the country along the eastern -side to Katwe is so easy and flat that it would probably -be worth while to ignore the waterway as I have already -indicated.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Of the Semliki valley I can only speak from observation -of the northern half, which is as flat as a billiard-table; -but as the drop is not very considerable, the southern -half should present no serious obstacle, while it offers -a magnificent fuel supply. The Semliki is a well-defined -river, and could be easily bridged. Thus the whole -course is free of natural obstacles, sufficiently provided -with fuel, supplies, and labour, and, over and above, -being direct, taps all these lakes, which in themselves are -the foci of the trade of large districts. By adopting this -course, in an incredibly short space of time, and at a -figure many millions short of the estimated cost of a -through line, the first and most important objects of the -connection will be attained: namely, the consolidation -of our influence--the strengthening of the Administration, -and thus the lessening of the numbers of soldiers -necessary to ensure order--immense cheapening of -communication and of the cost of telegraph up-keep. Even -were the through railway cheaper, this combination of -rail and steamboat will be sufficient to feel the pulse of -the country, and if the results justify the further -expenditure, the line can easily be completed, while its -main objects have been attained years earlier than would -otherwise be possible. As all porterage has to be done -by natives in Central Africa, a railway is even more -necessary than where wagon transport is available. -Owing to the impossibility of bringing anything heavy into -the country, many industries are debarred even from -being experimented upon. There is still a considerable -amount of ivory in native hands throughout the lake -region, and the amount of rubber is stupendous; both -these products will bear heavy transport charges, and -are in themselves sufficient to make a beginning until -a brisk trade has been stimulated in other products.[#]</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="noindent pfirst"><span class="small">[#] </span><em class="italics small">E.g.</em><span class="small"> the Congo railway.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>These lakes, and the vast rift valley that contains them, -are the natural highway which is fed by both sides of -the continent. It must be remembered that Africa -differs from other continents in the paucity of its -outlets and means of outlet; no continent is so poorly -endowed with harbours and navigable rivers for its size, -excepting, perhaps, Australia, which is the antithesis of -Africa in that its wealth lies along the coasts, while the -centre is the pearl of Africa. Hence any route which -offers natural advantages is of supreme importance.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The chief argument against this combination of rail -and boat is the amount of handling that it will entail. -I believe this is of no significance:--</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>First, because, as I have pointed out, there will be no -through traffic. All the traffic will be local, in that it -will be destined to feed the nearest radius that leads to -the coast, or for the interchange of local produce.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Secondly, because of the immense difference in the -capital to be sunk, and the cheapness of water transport -compared to rail transport.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Thirdly, because of the large area tapped. Much of -the freight would have to be brought in either case by -water to the railway, and might as well be brought to -one point as to another.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Fourthly, because labour is so plentiful, and as yet so -ridiculously cheap that the cost would be very trifling.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Trade is allowedly conservative, but once it has been -directed into a certain channel it needs a huge effort to -divert it. Let us, then, establish a route as speedily as -possible.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Finally, I wish I could induce some of the numerous -philanthropists at home to see that by aiding enterprise -of this description they strike at the very root of the -slave trade, Belgian atrocities, cannibal raids, and the -numerous other African diversions; and that in a few -years they will assist to educate, elevate, civilize, and -perhaps eventually to Christianize, the African natives -more effectually than would be done in centuries by -spasmodic mission work.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst" id="native-questions"><span class="bold large">CHAPTER XXIV.</span></p> -<p class="center pnext"><span class="bold medium">NATIVE QUESTIONS.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>The enormous extent of Africa, and the consequent -infinity of tribes widely divergent in origin, character, -and habits, make it almost impossible to generalize -on this most abstruse subject.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Still some principles may be laid down for the great -negroid population of Africa which, as far as my -experience goes, apply in most instances. I will ignore -platitudes as to the equality of men irrespective of -colour and progress, and take as an hypothesis what is -patent to all who have observed the African native, that -he is fundamentally inferior in mental development and -ethical possibilities (call it soul if you will) to the white -man.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>He approaches everything from an entirely different -standpoint to us. What that standpoint is, what his -point of view is, by what mental refraction things are -distorted to his receptive faculty, I cannot pretend to -explain. I have failed to find any one who could. But -the fact remains, that if a native is told to do anything, -and it is within the bounds of diabolical ingenuity to -do it wrong, he will do it wrong; and if he cannot -do it wrong, he will not do it right. I can but suggest -as an explanation that he is left-minded as he is generally -left-handed. The following anecdotes will illustrate my -meaning. They all came under my personal observation, -and tend to show the impossibility of following a -native's reasoning, if he does reason.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>When I engaged the Watonga on Lake Nyassa, I informed -them of all the salient features that they would -see on the road, such as lakes, mountains that spat fire, -mountains so high that the water became as stones, etc. -As we passed each of these features I reminded them of -what I had said, showing them that I had not lied, as -they had imagined before starting. When the journey -was nearly finished, I pointed out that everything had -appeared as I had said, and asked them what they -thought of it. Then spake the headman: "Lord, you -are a wonderful lord. You told us of the four lakes, -and how many days' journey it would take to pass them; -you told us of the smoking mountains and the great -mountains of the white water; of the elephants and the -meat with necks like trees (giraffe); yet you have not -been there before, as we well know. And as you would -not have us, your servants, think you a liar, </span><em class="italics">you put -them there</em><span>."</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Again, I had told them of the size of the white man's -houses; and when we arrived at Khartoum I showed -them the palace as an example. They smiled and said: -"Yes, it is very wonderful; but that is no house, </span><em class="italics">it has -been dug out of a hill</em><span>."</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>When travelling up the Zambesi, I gave Sharp's -Somali boy a Van Houten's cocoa-tin to open, telling -him to make cocoa. He disappeared for a time, and -returned with a tin-opener with which he proceeded to -tear off the bottom of the tin. Having successfully -accomplished this, he thrust a spoon in and pushed the -lid off, with the result that all the cocoa fell out on to -the ground. Then he looked at me with an expression -of supreme contempt, as though to say: "I always -thought the white men fools, but not quite such fools -as to make a thing like that." He must have opened -hundreds of tins before, both hermetically sealed ones -and ordinary ones. Yet to this day he thinks me an -idiot.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The small boy who was responsible for arranging my -tent had been carefully instructed always to place my -belongings in a certain order. Occasionally, through his -having put my bed on an uneven piece of ground, I -would tell him to change it to the other side, which -meant reversing my boxes and table to bring them into -the correct relative position. In doing this he was never -satisfied till he had also reversed the square mat, and -when I laughed at him for doing so he left the mat and -put the boxes wrong, nor could he put them right till -he had reversed the mat. This was most curious, and -I could never grasp to my satisfaction what his train of -reasoning was.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>One day, when hauling a canoe up a very shallow -tributary of the Nile, one of my boys, finding that he -could not pull to advantage from the bed of the river, -climbed inside and made superhuman efforts to drag it -along. He quite failed to see the cause of my laughter, -sulked, and refused to pull any more.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The answers of some natives who had been taken to -England after a trip across Africa were instructive as -showing the trend of a negro's mind. Questioned as to -what appeared most wonderful to them, one replied: -"The white man, when he wants anything, goes to the -wall; then he obtains what he requires, light, drink, -servants--in fact, everything." Another replied: "The -selling-houses with rows and rows of meat, countless -sheep and lumps of meat." And the third replied: -"The little houses that run about the roads with -horses." Of all the marvellous sights of civilization, three -impressions stuck--bells, butchers' shops, and omnibuses. -These few instances are sufficient to indicate in what -unexpected channels the native's thoughts flow. His -character is made up of contending elements, and is -best explained by saying that he has no character at all. -It is a blend of the child and the beast of the field. He -is swayed by every wind that blows, yet may seize upon -an idea and stick to it with remarkable tenacity, in spite -of the most cogent arguments to and obvious advantages -involved in the contrary.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>He is as imitative as a monkey, and consequently is -very apt at picking up crafts, gestures, and styles that -are new to him, but is so bound down by tradition and -custom that he never applies the improved methods of -the white man to anything that he is accustomed to do -in his own way.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>His mind is so inactive and blank that he can carry -for miles loads that he cannot pick up from the ground, -by merely sinking his entity. He becomes mentally -torpid, with the result that the effort is solely physical. -A white man, though physically stronger, would fret -himself into a state of utter fatigue in a quarter of the -time.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>In trifles he is impatient, yet will argue a question for -a week till it is threshed out to the bitter end, and will -accomplish with unceasing thoroughness a piece of carving -or basket-work that takes months to perfect.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>In debate he is extremely subtle, and in politics differs -materially from the white man in that he can hold his -tongue. On principle he never tells the truth, and -consequently never expects to hear it. He is extremely -suspicious, and his maxim is, "Mistrust every one." Yet -a judicious laugh will inspire him with complete -confidence. "When in doubt laugh," I have found a -safe maxim in dealing with natives, and a well-timed -laugh saved many ugly situations during our sojourn in -the land.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>He hates to be hurried; with him there is no idea of -time. "Do not the days succeed one another?---then -why hurry?" is his idea. He cannot understand at all -the hurrying man.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>His stage of evolution, which is but slightly superior -to the lower animals, is the explanation of many of the -seemingly inexplicable traits in his character, traits -which are conspicuous in the bees and ants, and in -varying degrees remarkable in other animals that have -attained to some more or less complete communism. -For instance, a native will share as a matter of course -the last bite with any one of the same clan (a -relationship that is expressed by the word "ndugu"), yet he -will watch starve with the most perfect equanimity -another native who, even though of the same tribe, does -not come within that mystic denomination. Should, -however, even his "ndugu" become very sick or otherwise -incapable of taking his part in the battle of life, -he is left to take care of himself as best he can, and -everything is devoted to the sustenance of those who -are still capable. In this respect the native is inferior -to the elephant, who will at considerable risk to -themselves endeavour to assist a wounded comrade from the -field of battle. The fundamental basis of native society -is local communism and disregard for all outside that -commune; though at times the various communes that -constitute a tribe will combine for some object of equal -benefit to all. The rarity, however, of this combination -for a purpose is what constitutes the essential weakness -of all African peoples. The old Zulu </span><em class="italics">régime</em><span>, and the -till recently remarkable cohesion of the Ruanda people, -are the conspicuous exceptions, and are proof of what -possibilities lie to the hand of dusky Napoleons in Africa. -The Arabs fully realized and availed themselves of this -inherent lack of combination amongst the tribes. The -success of their policy of disintegration should serve as -a useful example for our African statesmen. Many of -our failures are to be attributed to our not having grasped -the dominant fact that every chief who is left in possession -of his power is a source of strength to ourselves, to -be used as a counterpoise to every other chief similarly -placed. It stands to reason that several definite units--to -wit, clans consolidated under the ægis of responsible -men--can be more easily brought to focus than a -heterogeneous mass, incomplete in itself, and which will be -bound to gravitate to any adventurer who may acquire -a temporary hearing. The great mass, strangled as it -is by innate superstition, hidebound by tradition, and -so situated as to be incapable of enlightenment other -than the most microscopically gradual, can never be -brought thoroughly under white rule. It must be ruled -by its constituted and therefore accepted chiefs, who -alone can be made responsible to the Administration. -How to bring these chiefs under our influence without -lessening their local prestige, and how to infuse the -necessary element of competition </span><em class="italics">inter se</em><span>, are the problems -the solution of which will materially facilitate the thorny -path of African administration. A curious quality, and -one in some degree referable to this low stage of evolution, -is their inability to grasp the idea of a natural death. -If a man's head is smashed, they can associate the -obvious cause and effect, but any death less easily -explained is attributed to some such factor as the "evil -eye." This is invariable with the Soudanese tribes, and -is a source of unending trouble to the officers in -command of Soudanese troops. Again, the utter disregard -for the future would argue a social stage inferior to the -bees. No native can be induced to look to the morrow. -Over and over again we served out rations to our men, -for, say, a week, and informed them that by no possible -means could they obtain food during that week; yet on -every occasion they ate it all the first day or threw away -what they could not eat, trusting, in their characteristic -optimism, that something would turn up. Nor do they -ever learn from experience. Every year that the rains -fail or their crops are for some reason deficient, they are -caught and philosophically starve, yet two days more -of work would place them beyond all possibility of famine.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Another very essential factor has to be taken into -consideration in an endeavour to grasp the native -character. That is the lack of the two sentiments, gratitude -and pity, which enter so largely into the workings of the -European mind. As far as I am aware, in all the Bantu -dialects there is no word that remotely suggested either -of these virtues. In the Swahili tongue the word asanti -(thank you) has been borrowed from another language -for the benefit of the mixed Hindu-Persian and Arab -elements who constitute Swahili society. A few -anecdotes will exemplify this lack.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>I was paddling across the Shiré river to Chiromo, when -a native asked me to give him a lift across. I did so, -and no sooner had he landed, than he asked me for a -present for having done so.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Another boy, who had been bitten by a deadly snake, -came to me for treatment. With considerable difficulty, -and the expenditure of my last bottle of whisky, I saved -his life. Having completely recovered, he helped -himself to such of my movables as he could conveniently -annex, and absconded.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Their lack of the sense of pity is shown in their brutal -treatment of animals, of the sick, and of those who are -too old to work. Even the Portuguese or Spanish -treatment of animals is Christian compared to a native's -method. They are impervious to the sufferings of others, -and rather regard them as a joke. On one occasion -several boys were standing under a tree, when a snake -dropped from a branch, and bit one of the boys on the -cheek, causing the most intense pain which ended only -in death. The other boys thought it great fun, and -were distorted with laughter at the agonized convulsions -of the unfortunate.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>A further proof of the lack of these senses is their -utter inability to understand them in others.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>An amusing case that came to my notice is a proof in -point. An official had engaged a cook at 10s. a month, -who for three months gave complete satisfaction. At -the end of that time he called the native before him, -and explained that as he had done his work so well, his -wages would be raised to 15s. a month. The cook -appeared to be rather puzzled, and went away. The -following morning he returned and demanded 15s., -arguing that he was the same now as he had been before -and that therefore he ought to have 5s. more for each of -the three months which he had spent in his service. -From that day he became useless, and eventually left, -firm in the conviction that he had been swindled out -of 15s.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Another man of my acquaintance saved a small child -from a crocodile. The child's hand was badly torn, -but after careful tending, with the help of a doctor -brought at considerable expense from the nearest station, -he was sent home completely cured. Thereupon the -child's father and mother arrived on the scene, and -demanded a large present because the child had been -kept so long.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Gratitude or pity in others they attribute to fear, or -the desire to get the better of them. They look upon -kindness as a thing suspicious, a move to cloak some -ulterior design. Nor can they understand leniency, but -consider it weakness. They themselves are either abject -grovellers or blustering bullies. The Arab understands -this, and rules with a rod of iron; the natural result of -which is that natives prefer Arab service to British, the -philanthropy of which they do not understand, and either -mistrust or despise. Strict justice they do understand; -but it must be based on the "eye for an eye, tooth for a -tooth" school. The unreasoning philanthropy which is -the latest phase of our "unctuous rectitude" is as pearls -before swine, and, as with other nations, so with natives, -merely renders us objects of pity.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>I trust that these few points are sufficient to indicate -the difficulties that lie before the student of native -character. Yet in spite of this, there exists a certain -section of the community at home who presume to -dictate the methods to be adopted in dealing with -natives. Strong in their magnificent ignorance of the -local requirements, racial characteristics, and the -factors that make society, men are found who will -condemn such acts as the desecration of the Mahdi's tomb. -These individuals, unless specialists, would never dream -of discoursing on the treatment of horses, spectral -analysis, or any other subject requiring special study, -yet, with a confidence sublime in its assurance, they -will launch forth into the still more abstruse subject of -native administration. Nothing is more to be -deprecated than this meddling on the part of the -stay-at-homes, in the methods adopted by the men specially -selected to undertake the difficult task of ruling these -peoples. We select the men whom we think most -capable of promoting the prosperity of the countries in -question, and instead of allowing them to find out by -experience the methods most productive of good, we -cramp their efforts by well-intentioned but fatal -limitations on points of which we are necessarily profoundly -ignorant. If, as a section of the press would lead us to -believe, we are compelled to assume that every man -who leaves this country </span><em class="italics">ipso facto</em><span> becomes an -abandoned ruffian, the sooner we shut up our branch shops, -and retain our servants under the watchful eye of the -man in blue, the better for all concerned. But if, on -the other hand, we are confident that we are promoting -the welfare of the community at large by assuming -these responsibilities, and believe that we can find -reliable men to carry on the work, the least that we can -do is to allow those men to profit by and regulate their -methods on the experience that they must necessarily -acquire, and which is necessarily denied to us. The -fact that the method most productive of good in Africa -is not the same as the method most productive of good -at home is no evidence of the inadvisability of its -adoption. A thousand and one factors known only to the -man on the spot must be assumed. In the halcyon days -that are no doubt coming, no one will be allowed to -hold an important position in the Government who -has not gone through the mill of travel. "What do -they know of England who only England know?" What -indeed! In an empire like ours, of which the -British isles are already but the viscera, it is -inconceivable that men who are largely responsible for the -administration of that empire should display the gaping -ignorance of the elements of which it is composed, -which daily passes without comment. This external -interference is of paramount importance. It is -crushing all our African ventures, and with the -rapidly-increasing facility of communication attendant on -telegraphic construction, its effect is becoming daily more -conspicuous. In the old days men were bound to act -on their own initiative; now the tendency is to shirk -responsibility by appealing to headquarters. This -paralyzes decisive action, which alone is effective in dealing -with natives. A general outline of policy should be -adopted on the recommendation of the best available -experts, but every possible detail should be left to the -discretion of the local official. Many of the ridiculous -restrictions that are made are nothing short of insults -to the men affected by them. Imagine placing one -man in charge of a district such as Toro--Toro is larger -than Ireland, and consequently the position is one of -enormous responsibility--and telling that man that he -must not give more than twenty-five lashes to a native. -It is grotesque. Twenty-five lashes would kill an -average Toro native, but a hundred lashes barely make the -dust fly off a Manyema porter. Surely details of this -description should be left to the judgment of the man -who can weigh the facts of the case.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>But few people at home realize what an alarming and -ever-growing difficulty has to be faced in the African -native problem. It is a difficulty that is unique in -the progress of the world. In Australia, Tasmania, -New Zealand (in a minor degree), and America the -aborigine has faded out of existence before the -irresistible and to him insufferable advance of the white -man. But not so the African, who in this sense differs -entirely from other savages. Under the beneficent -rule of the white man he thrives like weeds in a -hot-house. Originally, the two great checks on -population were smallpox and internecine strife. These have -been minimized by the advent of white rule, and the -resulting rate of increase is one to stagger the -statistician. The stately Maori, the wild Australian, the -chivalrous Tasmanian, and the grim Redskin have -given up the struggle, and are fast going the way of the -mammoth and the dodo, but in white-teethed content -the negro smiles and breeds apace, mildly contemptuous -of the mad Englishman who does so much for him and -expects so little in return. What is to be done with this -ever-increasing mass of inertia? We have undertaken -his education and advancement. When we undertake -the education of a child or beast we make them work, -realizing that work is the sole road to advancement. -But when we undertake the education of a negro, who, -as I have endeavoured to show, is a blend of the two, -we say, "Dear coloured man, thou elect of Exeter Hall, -chosen of the negrophil, darling of the unthinking -philanthropist, wilt thou deign to put thy hand to the -plough, or dost prefer to smoke and tipple in undisturbed -content? We, the white men, whom thy conscience -wrongly judges to be thy superiors, will arrange thy -affairs of state. Sleep on, thou ebony idol of a jaded -civilization, maybe anon thou wilt sing 'Onward, -Christian Soldiers!'"</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>A good sound system of compulsory labour would do -more to raise the native in five years than all the -millions that have been sunk in missionary efforts for the -last fifty; but at the very sound of "compulsory -labour," the whole of stay-at-home England stops its -ears, and yells, "Slavery!" and not knowing what -"slavery" is, yells "Slavery!" again, nor ever looks at -home nor realizes that we are all slaves. Have we not -compulsory education, taxes, poor-rates, compulsory -this and compulsory that, with "jail" as the -alternative? Nor are we paid by the State for being -educated. Then let the native be compelled to work so -many months in the year at a fixed and reasonable rate, -and call it compulsory education. Under such a title, -surely the most delicate British conscience may be at -rest. Thereby the native will be morally and physically -improved; he will acquire tastes and wants which will -increase the trade of the country; he will learn to -know the white man and his ways, and will, by providing -a plentiful supply of labour, counterbalance the -physical disadvantages under which the greater part of -Africa labours, and thus ensure the future prosperity of -the land, whereby, with the attendant security of -tenure and of the rights of the individual, he will have -that chance of progressive evolution which centuries of -strife and bloodshed have denied him. Inducements -might be offered to chiefs to make plantations of wheat, -rice, coffee, and other suitable products, by exempting -a number of their men, proportionate to the area -cultivated, from the annual educational course.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>This perpetual wail of "slavery," which is always -raised to combat legitimate and reasonable discussion, -is due to ignorance, to the inability to discriminate -between the status of slavery and slave-raiding. -Slave-raiding was a curse beyond belief, and is now, happily, -to all intents a nightmare of the past, but the status -of slavery is still widespread, and with many peoples -is necessary and beneficent. The line between slavery -and freedom is a very nice distinction. We can all -be called upon to fight or to give up our goods for the -common weal, or, as we phrase it, for the cause of -progress. Then why should not other peoples be called -upon to work for the cause of progress? There is a -sound maxim in the progress of the world: "What -cannot be utilized must be eliminated." And drivel as -we will for a while, the time will come when the negro -must bow to this as to the inevitable. Why, because -he is black and is supposed to possess a soul, we should -consider him, on account of that combination, exempt, -is difficult to understand, when a little firmness would -transform him from a useless and dangerous brute into -a source of benefit to the country and of satisfaction -to himself.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>I invariably had trouble with my natives when they -were not occupied. The native has no means of -amusing himself, nor idea of making occupation, and -consequently, like women similarly situated, has recourse to -chatter and the hatching of mischief. Work, I am -convinced, is the keynote to the betterment of the African; -and he will not work for the asking. No amount of -example will assist him. What are the results of several -hundred years' communication with the Portuguese? -A few natives wear hats, and the women's morals have -deteriorated. Africa labours under many -disadvantages--remoteness from markets, inaccessibility, dearth of -waterways, and in parts a pestilential climate; but it -has one great advantage in an inexhaustible supply of -potential labour, which, if properly handled, should -place it on terms of equality with countries more -favourably endowed by Nature.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The first essential in opening up new country in -Africa is for the Administration to fix a rate of pay, -and to make that rate a low one. If it is left to -competition the rate is bound to be forced up by contending -trading companies. The first profits from new country -are usually large, and the difficulty of obtaining labour -very great before the native has gained confidence. -Hence the rate dependent on competition is a fictitious -one, and cannot be sustained under the conditions that -will prevail subsequent to the harvesting of the first-fruits -of the land. But it will be well-nigh impossible -ever to lower the rate to meet diminishing profits. -At first sight this seems severe on the native, but in -reality it is not so. As he is, he has every necessary of -life, and everything that we give him is a luxury. The -taste for pay is a cultivated taste, and three shillings -really gives him as much satisfaction as three pounds. -The native on the Tanganyika plateau works more -cheerfully for his three shillings a month than the -Rhodesian native does for his two pounds, and yet -beads and cloth are much more costly on the plateau -than in Rhodesia. There is a short-sighted inclination -amongst British officials to give the native more than -he requires or even asks for, presumably simply because -he is a native.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>At one station I required a certain amount of labour, -and as there was no precedent to go upon, we called -up some of the local natives, and asked them for what -sum they would be willing to do the work in question. -They mentioned a figure which they evidently -considered preposterous, but which, as a matter of fact, -was very small. The official thereupon told them that -they would get more. This naturally aroused their -suspicions, and some of those who had at first been -willing failed to turn up. It must always be -remembered that the untutored native will work as readily -for three shillings as he will for three pounds; and if -he does not want to work, he will not do so for thirty -pounds. The actual rate of pay carries no weight with -him. It is merely a matter of whether he is in the mood. -But, of course, if he has once received a certain figure -he will never work for less, even if he is in the mood -to do so. Were he to do so he would imagine that he -had been swindled.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The Portuguese, for the simple reason that they themselves -practically never pay their natives at all, failed -to grasp the necessity of controlling the labour market -in the Beira district, with the result that the wages of -an ordinary carrier or labourer are one pound a month, -and of an untrained house-boy from two pounds to -three pounds a month. These sums were gladly paid in -the original days of boom and prosperity, but in these -days of comparative gloom they are feeling the pinch. -Large supplies of labour are brought down from the -Zambesi to minimize the difficulty, but with the sole -result that this fictitious rate is spread to the regions -that are being tapped when the labourers return to -their homes. By this means the evil is gradually -working up the Shiré river to British Central Africa. -Rhodesia has, to a considerable extent, blighted her prospects -by not grappling with the subject, in spite of the hysteria -of those whose knowledge of natives, their ways, and -of the best methods of dealing with them appears to -be derived from week-end studies of the becollared -fraternity who affect Margate and Brighton sands.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The name of Englishman is held high throughout -Africa, and the Union Jack is the surest passport in the -land. Let this be the answer to those who casually -assume that because a man goes to Africa he necessarily -becomes a brute, no matter what his social status, -education, or previous mental condition. It is obviously to -the interest of men who live as an infinitesimal minority -amongst hordes of savages, to find out what means are -most conducive to the proper control of those hordes, -and to inspire them with that respect and assurance -of justice, without which they will be in continual -revolt, as has been the case with the natives of the Upper -Congo since the substitution of Belgian and polyglot -officials for the original staff of British and Americans. -However, the damage is done, and I think the -proposed remedy of importing "the teeming millions" of -Lake Tanganyika (who, by the way, do not exist) a -false and dangerous one. The imported natives, -finding that they obtain less pay than the natives of the -country, although they have come far from their own -homes, break out in discontent, and, maybe, open -revolt (as did the Angoni police, recruited and sent to -Salisbury by Major Harding, C.M.G.), and when they -return home spread the feeling of dissatisfaction far and -wide. The Yaos who were sent to Mauritius were even -a greater failure, and cannot but have the most -pernicious influence on their return. Uganda has been -similarly doomed as an agricultural country by the -chaotic incompetence that supervened after the Lugard -</span><em class="italics">régime</em><span>. British Central Africa alone of the young -African States has steered a straight course through the -stormy seas of labour questions. But British Central -Africa has profited by its hitherto comparative -insignificance, and, under the able guidance of Sir Harry -Johnston, has found the right channel unruffled by -the whirlwinds of adverse criticism, which have played -with such unceasing ferocity upon Rhodesia. It seems -hardly reasonable that one district should be called -upon to pay for the mistakes made in another.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The establishment of native locations on a large -scale in the districts that require labour will tend to -ameliorate the labour scarcity and maintain wages at a -reasonable level. On farms and plantations there is -comparatively little difficulty in obtaining labour. The -native is useless without his women-folk, but is easily -induced to settle down in any spot required, if allotted -so much land and allowed to bring his family, while at -the same time a fillip is given to production when he -finds that his women can add to his income by cultivating -the various requirements of the white man.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>To summarize; the questions of paramount importance are:--</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>1. </span><em class="italics">To make the Administration the sole labour agents</em><span>.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>By this means the supply of labour can be evenly -distributed through the year, or according to the -country's requirements. The rate of pay can be fixed and -maintained at a rational level. Undesirable people can -be prevented from obtaining labour, and thereby -adversely influencing the native. The native is protected -against the employer, and guaranteed proper treatment -by knowing that he has a court of appeal where he can -obtain information and air his grievances.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>2. </span><em class="italics">To rule through the chiefs, and refrain from injuring -their prestige</em><span>.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Centuries cannot give the white man the power over -the individual native that the recognized chief holds -without question. The substitution of one chief for -another is of no use unless the original chief is killed -and his rightful heir instated. These matters are -religion with natives. "Once a chief always a chief, -even when dead," is their belief. To get a grip on an -important chief and yet leave him his power is a -difficult matter; and as these preliminary questions will -affect the whole future of the country, the first step -in administration should be entrusted to really able -men, and not, as is too often the case, to any trader, -hunter, or out-of-a-job who happens to be in the -neighbourhood and to know a little of the language. By -leaving the chiefs their power, administration is greatly -facilitated by the resulting concentration of responsibility. -All the petty questions and difficulties (which -are often such dangerous ground, until the local -customs are fully understood) devolve on the chief, and -if there is any serious trouble the responsibility can be -instantly located.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The prestige of the chiefs should be maintained in -every possible way, such as exempting them from the -hut-tax, allowing them a small armed escort, etc.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>I realized the immense importance of this ruling -through the chiefs when in the Chambesi district of -Northern Rhodesia. Two chiefs of considerable -influence, namely, Makasa and Changala, really administer -the country under the direction of the collector. A -criminal was wanted, and Changala handed him over -in thirty-six hours; had he not done so, all the police -in the district might have hunted for a year without -success.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>3. </span><em class="italics">More attention must be paid to maintaining the -prestige of the white man</em><span>.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>This is of paramount importance. There is rather -a tendency amongst the officials to lower the non-official -in the eyes of the native. This is fatal. The prestige -must be maintained at all costs, as it is the sole hold -that we have over the native. The rabble that is -inseparable from a mining community is a great difficulty. -But still much harm is caused by the ignorance of the -youthful officials who are in positions for which they -are in no wise fitted.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>4. </span><em class="italics">Officials should be forced to acquire a knowledge of -the language</em><span>.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The Germans set us a good example in their East -Coast Protectorate, where a man must go through a -preliminary course at the coast before being admitted -to any position in the interior. I have seen much harm -done by the employment of interpreters, who are -invariably bribed, and only say what they wish to be said. -This destroys the confidence of the native. I have -always remarked the eagerness with which the native -appeals to the white man who can converse direct -with him.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>5. </span><em class="italics">The constant moving of officials from place to place -should be avoided</em><span>.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The native requires a long time to learn to know a -white man and to feel confidence in him. In many places -a game of general post with the officials seems to be the -chief occupation of the Administration.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>6. </span><em class="italics">The official should be enabled and encouraged to travel -round his district</em><span>.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>This is the surest means of inspiring confidence. At -present most of the officials whom I met were tied to -their stations by such statesmanlike duties as weighing -out beads, measuring cloth, and copying out orders; -all of which might be cheaply and effectually done by -an Indian clerk. Travelling round and learning the -natives is usually severely repressed at headquarters.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 3em"> -</div> -<div class="align-center auto-scaled figure margin" style="width: 81%" id="figure-79"> -<span id="map-of-the-route"></span><img class="align-center block" style="display: block; width: 100%" alt="MAP TO ILLUSTRATE "FROM THE CAPE TO CAIRO" (northern half of map)" src="images/img-380-t.jpg" /> -<div class="caption centerleft figure-caption margin"> -<span class="italics">MAP TO ILLUSTRATE "FROM THE CAPE TO CAIRO" (northern half of map)</span></div> -</div> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<div class="align-center auto-scaled figure margin" style="width: 82%" id="figure-80"> -<img class="align-center block" style="display: block; width: 100%" alt="MAP TO ILLUSTRATE "FROM THE CAPE TO CAIRO" (southern half of map)" src="images/img-382-t.jpg" /> -<div class="caption centerleft figure-caption margin"> -<span class="italics">MAP TO ILLUSTRATE "FROM THE CAPE TO CAIRO" (southern half of map)</span></div> -</div> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 3em"> -</div> -<p class="noindent pfirst"><span>[Transcriber's note: larger versions of these maps -(img-380.jpg and img-382.jpg) have been -provided, but they are not linked into this etext.]</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 3em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst"><span class="medium">PRINTED IN GREAT BRITAIN AT -<br />THE PRESS OF THE PUBLISHERS</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 6em"> -</div> -<!-- -*- encoding: utf-8 -*- --> -<div class="backmatter"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst" id="pg-end-line"><span>*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK </span><span>FROM THE CAPE TO CAIRO</span><span> ***</span></p> -<div class="cleardoublepage"> -</div> -<div class="language-en level-2 pgfooter section" id="a-word-from-project-gutenberg" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> -<span id="pg-footer"></span><h2 class="level-2 pfirst section-title title"><span>A Word from Project Gutenberg</span></h2> -<p class="pfirst"><span>We will update this book if we find any errors.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>This book can be found under: </span><a class="reference external" href="http://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/45396"><span>http://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/45396</span></a></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no one -owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation (and -you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, set -forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to -copying and distributing Project Gutenberg™ electronic works to -protect the Project Gutenberg™ concept and trademark. Project -Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you charge -for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. If you do not -charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the rules is -very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose such as -creation of derivative works, reports, performances and research. -They may be modified and printed and given away – you may do -practically </span><em class="italics">anything</em><span> with public domain eBooks. Redistribution is -subject to the trademark license, especially commercial -redistribution.</span></p> -<div class="level-3 section" id="the-full-project-gutenberg-license"> -<span id="project-gutenberg-license"></span><h3 class="level-3 pfirst section-title title"><span>The Full Project Gutenberg License</span></h3> -<p class="pfirst"><em class="italics">Please read this before you distribute or use this work.</em></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>To protect the Project Gutenberg™ mission of promoting the free -distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work -(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase “Project -Gutenberg”), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full -Project Gutenberg™ License available with this file or online at -</span><a class="reference external" href="http://www.gutenberg.org/license">http://www.gutenberg.org/license</a><span>.</span></p> -<div class="level-4 section" id="section-1-general-terms-of-use-redistributing-project-gutenberg-electronic-works"> -<h4 class="level-4 pfirst section-title title"><span>Section 1. General Terms of Use & Redistributing Project Gutenberg™ electronic works</span></h4> -<p class="pfirst"><strong class="bold">1.A.</strong><span> By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg™ -electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to -and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property -(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all -the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or -destroy all copies of Project Gutenberg™ electronic works in your -possession. If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a -Project Gutenberg™ electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by -the terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person -or entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><strong class="bold">1.B.</strong><span> “Project Gutenberg” is a registered trademark. It may only be -used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who -agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few -things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg™ electronic works -even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See -paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project -Gutenberg™ electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement -and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg™ electronic -works. See paragraph 1.E below.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><strong class="bold">1.C.</strong><span> The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation (“the -Foundation” or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection -of Project Gutenberg™ electronic works. Nearly all the individual -works in the collection are in the public domain in the United -States. If an individual work is in the public domain in the United -States and you are located in the United States, we do not claim a -right to prevent you from copying, distributing, performing, -displaying or creating derivative works based on the work as long as -all references to Project Gutenberg are removed. Of course, we hope -that you will support the Project Gutenberg™ mission of promoting free -access to electronic works by freely sharing Project Gutenberg™ works -in compliance with the terms of this agreement for keeping the Project -Gutenberg™ name associated with the work. You can easily comply with -the terms of this agreement by keeping this work in the same format -with its attached full Project Gutenberg™ License when you share it -without charge with others.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"></p> -<p class="pnext"><strong class="bold">1.D.</strong><span> The copyright laws of the place where you are located also -govern what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most -countries are in a constant state of change. If you are outside the -United States, check the laws of your country in addition to the terms -of this agreement before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, -distributing or creating derivative works based on this work or any -other Project Gutenberg™ work. The Foundation makes no -representations concerning the copyright status of any work in any -country outside the United States.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><strong class="bold">1.E.</strong><span> Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg:</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><strong class="bold">1.E.1.</strong><span> The following sentence, with active links to, or other -immediate access to, the full Project Gutenberg™ License must appear -prominently whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg™ work (any work -on which the phrase “Project Gutenberg” appears, or with which the -phrase “Project Gutenberg” is associated) is accessed, displayed, -performed, viewed, copied or distributed:</span></p> -<blockquote> -<div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at </span><a class="reference external" href="http://www.gutenberg.org">http://www.gutenberg.org</a></p> -</div> -</blockquote> -<p class="pfirst"><strong class="bold">1.E.2.</strong><span> If an individual Project Gutenberg™ electronic work is -derived from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating -that it is posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work -can be copied and distributed to anyone in the United States without -paying any fees or charges. If you are redistributing or providing -access to a work with the phrase “Project Gutenberg” associated with -or appearing on the work, you must comply either with the requirements -of paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of -the work and the Project Gutenberg™ trademark as set forth in -paragraphs 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><strong class="bold">1.E.3.</strong><span> If an individual Project Gutenberg™ electronic work is -posted with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and -distribution must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and -any additional terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms -will be linked to the Project Gutenberg™ License for all works posted -with the permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of -this work.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><strong class="bold">1.E.4.</strong><span> Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project -Gutenberg™ License terms from this work, or any files containing a -part of this work or any other work associated with Project -Gutenberg™.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><strong class="bold">1.E.5.</strong><span> Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute -this electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without -prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with -active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project -Gutenberg™ License.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><strong class="bold">1.E.6.</strong><span> You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, -compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including -any word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access -to or distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg™ work in a format other -than “Plain Vanilla ASCII” or other format used in the official -version posted on the official Project Gutenberg™ web site -(</span><a class="reference external" href="http://www.gutenberg.org">http://www.gutenberg.org</a><span>), you must, at no additional cost, fee or -expense to the user, provide a copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a -means of obtaining a copy upon request, of the work in its original -“Plain Vanilla ASCII” or other form. Any alternate format must include -the full Project Gutenberg™ License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><strong class="bold">1.E.7.</strong><span> Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, -performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg™ works -unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><strong class="bold">1.E.8.</strong><span> You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing -access to or distributing Project Gutenberg™ electronic works provided -that</span></p> -<ul class="open"> -<li><p class="first pfirst"><span>You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from -the use of Project Gutenberg™ works calculated using the method you -already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is owed to -the owner of the Project Gutenberg™ trademark, but he has agreed to -donate royalties under this paragraph to the Project Gutenberg -Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments must be paid within 60 -days following each date on which you prepare (or are legally -required to prepare) your periodic tax returns. Royalty payments -should be clearly marked as such and sent to the Project Gutenberg -Literary Archive Foundation at the address specified in Section 4, -“Information about donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation.”</span></p> -</li> -<li><p class="first pfirst"><span>You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies -you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he -does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg™ -License. You must require such a user to return or destroy all -copies of the works possessed in a physical medium and discontinue -all use of and all access to other copies of Project Gutenberg™ -works.</span></p> -</li> -<li><p class="first pfirst"><span>You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of -any money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the -electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days of -receipt of the work.</span></p> -</li> -<li><p class="first pfirst"><span>You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free -distribution of Project Gutenberg™ works.</span></p> -</li> -</ul> -<p class="pfirst"><strong class="bold">1.E.9.</strong><span> If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project -Gutenberg™ electronic work or group of works on different terms than -are set forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing -from both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and -Michael Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg™ trademark. Contact -the Foundation as set forth in Section 3. below.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><strong class="bold">1.F.</strong></p> -<p class="pnext"><strong class="bold">1.F.1.</strong><span> Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend -considerable effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe -and proofread public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg™ -collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg™ electronic -works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain -“Defects,” such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or -corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual -property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a -computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by -your equipment.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><strong class="bold">1.F.2.</strong><span> LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES – Except for the -“Right of Replacement or Refund” described in paragraph 1.F.3, the -Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the -Project Gutenberg™ trademark, and any other party distributing a -Project Gutenberg™ electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all -liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal -fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT -LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE -PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE -TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE -LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR -INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH -DAMAGE.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><strong class="bold">1.F.3.</strong><span> LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND – If you discover a -defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can -receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a -written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you -received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium -with your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you -with the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in -lieu of a refund. If you received the work electronically, the person -or entity providing it to you may choose to give you a second -opportunity to receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If -the second copy is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing -without further opportunities to fix the problem.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><strong class="bold">1.F.4.</strong><span> Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set -forth in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you ‘AS-IS,’ WITH -NO OTHER WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT -LIMITED TO WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><strong class="bold">1.F.5.</strong><span> Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied -warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of -damages. If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement -violates the law of the state applicable to this agreement, the -agreement shall be interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or -limitation permitted by the applicable state law. The invalidity or -unenforceability of any provision of this agreement shall not void the -remaining provisions.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><strong class="bold">1.F.6.</strong><span> INDEMNITY – You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, -the trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone -providing copies of Project Gutenberg™ electronic works in accordance -with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the -production, promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg™ -electronic works, harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, -including legal fees, that arise directly or indirectly from any of -the following which you do or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this -or any Project Gutenberg™ work, (b) alteration, modification, or -additions or deletions to any Project Gutenberg™ work, and (c) any -Defect you cause.</span></p> -</div> -<div class="level-4 section" id="section-2-information-about-the-mission-of-project-gutenberg"> -<h4 class="level-4 pfirst section-title title"><span>Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg™</span></h4> -<p class="pfirst"><span>Project Gutenberg™ is synonymous with the free distribution of -electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of -computers including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It -exists because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations -from people in all walks of life.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the -assistance they need, is critical to reaching Project Gutenberg™'s -goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg™ collection will remain -freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure -and permanent future for Project Gutenberg™ and future generations. To -learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and -how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4 and the -Foundation web page at </span><a class="reference external" href="http://www.pglaf.org">http://www.pglaf.org</a><span> .</span></p> -</div> -<div class="level-4 section" id="section-3-information-about-the-project-gutenberg-literary-archive-foundation"> -<h4 class="level-4 pfirst section-title title"><span>Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation</span></h4> -<p class="pfirst"><span>The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit -501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the -state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal -Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification -number is 64-6221541. Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at -</span><a class="reference external" href="http://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/pglaf">http://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/pglaf</a><span> . Contributions to the -Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to -the full extent permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. -S. Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are -scattered throughout numerous locations. Its business office is -located at 809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) -596-1887, email </span><a class="reference external" href="mailto:business@pglaf.org">business@pglaf.org</a><span>. Email contact links and up to date -contact information can be found at the Foundation's web site and -official page at </span><a class="reference external" href="http://www.pglaf.org">http://www.pglaf.org</a></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>For additional contact information:</span></p> -<blockquote> -<div> -<div class="line-block outermost"> -<div class="line"><span>Dr. Gregory B. Newby</span></div> -<div class="line"><span>Chief Executive and Director</span></div> -<div class="line"><a class="reference external" href="mailto:gbnewby@pglaf.org">gbnewby@pglaf.org</a></div> -</div> -</div> -</blockquote> -</div> -<div class="level-4 section" id="section-4-information-about-donations-to-the-project-gutenberg-literary-archive-foundation"> -<h4 class="level-4 pfirst section-title title"><span>Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation</span></h4> -<p class="pfirst"><span>Project Gutenberg™ depends upon and cannot survive without wide spread -public support and donations to carry out its mission of increasing -the number of public domain and licensed works that can be freely -distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest array of -equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations ($1 to -$5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt status -with the IRS.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating -charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United -States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a -considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up -with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations -where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To SEND -DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any particular -state visit </span><a class="reference external" href="http://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/donate">http://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/donate</a></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we -have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition -against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who -approach us with offers to donate.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make -any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from -outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation -methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other -ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. To -donate, please visit: </span><a class="reference external" href="http://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/donate">http://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/donate</a></p> -</div> -<div class="level-4 section" id="section-5-general-information-about-project-gutenberg-electronic-works"> -<h4 class="level-4 pfirst section-title title"><span>Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg™ electronic works.</span></h4> -<p class="pfirst"><span>Professor Michael S. Hart is the originator of the Project Gutenberg™ -concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared -with anyone. For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project -Gutenberg™ eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Project Gutenberg™ eBooks are often created from several printed -editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the -U.S. unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not -necessarily keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper -edition.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Each eBook is in a subdirectory of the same number as the eBook's -eBook number, often in several formats including plain vanilla ASCII, -compressed (zipped), HTML and others.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Corrected </span><em class="italics">editions</em><span> of our eBooks replace the old file and take over -the old filename and etext number. The replaced older file is -renamed. </span><em class="italics">Versions</em><span> based on separate sources are treated as new -eBooks receiving new filenames and etext numbers.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search -facility:</span></p> -<blockquote> -<div> -<p class="pfirst"><a class="reference external" href="http://www.gutenberg.org">http://www.gutenberg.org</a></p> -</div> -</blockquote> -<p class="pfirst"><span>This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg™, including -how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive -Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to subscribe -to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks.</span></p> -</div> -</div> -</div> -</div> -</body> -</html> |