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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/4521-h.zip b/4521-h.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..555e735 --- /dev/null +++ b/4521-h.zip diff --git a/4521-h/4521-h.htm b/4521-h/4521-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..a66b9ab --- /dev/null +++ b/4521-h/4521-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,5796 @@ +<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN"> +<html> +<head> +<title>The Overland Expedition of The Messrs. Jardine</title> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1"> +<style type="text/css"> +<!-- +body {background:lightyellow; margin:10%; text-align:justify} +h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 {color:green; text-align:center} +blockquote {font-size: 97%} +p.poem {text-align:center} +p.external {font:bold} +--> +</style> +</head> +<body> + +<h2><a href="#home">OVERLAND EXPEDITION OF THE MESSRS. JARDINE</a></h2> +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Overland Expedition of The Messrs. +Jardine, by Frank Jardine and Alexander Jardine + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Overland Expedition of The Messrs. Jardine + +Author: Frank Jardine and Alexander Jardine + +Release Date: August 28, 2004 [EBook #4521] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JARDINE EXPEDITION *** + + + + +Produced by Amy Zelmer + + + + + +</pre> + + + +<p>[Errors in the original have been preserved <br /> +and noted at the end of this etext.]</p> +<br /><br /><br /> + +<br /> + + + + +<a name="home"></a> +<br /><br /> +<h3>NARRATIVE OF THE OVERLAND EXPEDITION OF THE MESSRS. JARDINE, FROM ROCKHAMPTON TO CAPE YORK, NORTHERN QUEENSLAND.</h3> + +<h4>COMPILED FROM THE JOURNALS OF THE BROTHERS, AND EDITED BY FREDERICK J. BYERLEY,<br> + +(ENGINEER OF ROADS, NORTHERN DIVISION OF QUEENSLAND).</h4> + +<h5>Angus and Robertson—1949</h5> + +<h5>BRISBANE</h5> + +<h5>PRINTED AND PUBLISHED BY J. W. BUXTON, BOOKSELLER AND STATIONER.</h5> + +<h5>1867.</h5> + +<hr width="50%" align="center"> + +<h4>TO<br> + +SIR CHARLES NICHOLSON, BART.,<br> + +CHANCELLOR OF THE UNIVERSITY OF SYDNEY, etc., etc., etc.,<br> + +AS ONE OF<br> + +OUR OLDEST AND MOST DISTINGUISHED<br> + +COLONISTS.<br> + +THE NARRATIVE IS INSCRIBED<br> + +WITH GREAT RESPECT, BY<br> + +THE EDITOR.</h4> + +<p> </p> + +<center> +<a name="pic1"></a> +<img alt="" src="images/jardine-2men.jpg"> +<p><b>F and A Jardine</b></p> +</center> + +<p> </p> + +<h3>List of Images</h3> +<p align="center"><a href="#pic1">F and A Jardine</a> +<p align="center"><a href="#pic2">Somerset Cape York</a> +<p align="center"><a href="#pic3">Map of the northern part of Queensland showing the route of Messrs Jardine from August 1864 to January 1865. [see bottom of map to display in higher resolution]</a> + + +<h3>PREFACE.</h3> + +<p>The Settlement of Northern Australia has of late years been of such +rapid growth as to furnish matter for a collection of narratives, +which in the aggregate would make a large and interesting volume. +Prominent amongst these stands that of the Settlement of Cape York, +under the superintendence of Mr. Jardine, with which the gallant trip +of his two sons overland must ever be associated. It was a journey +which, but for the character and qualities of the Leader, might have +terminated as disastrously as that of his unfortunate, but no less +gallant predecessor, Kennedy. A brilliant achievement in +exploration, in a colony where exploring has become common and almost +devoid of interest, from the number of those yearly engaged in it, +its very success has prevented its attracting that share of public +attention to which its results very fully entitled it. Had it been +attended with any signal disaster, involving loss of life, it would +have been otherwise. Geographically, it has solved the question +hitherto undecided of the course of the northern rivers emptying into +the Gulf of Carpentaria, of which nothing was previously known but +their outlets, taken from the charts of the Dutch Navigators. It has +also made known, with tolerable definiteness, how much, or rather, +how little, of the "York Peninsula" is adapted for pastoral +occupation, whilst its success in taking the first stock overland, +and forming a cattle station at Newcastle Bay, has insured to the +Settlement at Somerset a necessary and welcome supply of fresh meat, +and done away with its dependence for supplies on importations by sea +of less nourishing salt provision. + +<p>Starting from the then farthest out-station of Northern Queensland +with a small herd of cattle, these hardy young bushmen met with and +successfully combated, almost every "accident by flood and field" +that could well occur in an expedition. First, an arid waterless +country forced them to follow down two streams at right angles with +their course for upwards of 200 miles, causing a delay which betrayed +them into the depths of the rainy season; then the loss of half their +food and equipment by a fire, occasioned by the carelessness of some +of the party; next the scarcity of grass and water, causing a further +delay by losses of half their horses, which were only recovered to be +again lost altogether—killed by eating a deadly poison plant; and +finally, the setting in of the wet season, making the ground next to +impassable, and so swelling the rivers, that when actually in sight, +and within a week's journey of their destination, they were turned +off their course, and were more than six weeks in reaching it. Added +to this, and running through the whole journey, was the incessant and +determined, although unprovoked, hostility of the natives, which, but +for the unceasing vigilence and prompt and daring action of the +Brothers, might have eventually compassed the annihilation of the +whole party. Had Leichhardt used the same vigilance and decision the +life of poor Gilbert would not have been sacrificed, and in all +probability we should not now deplore his own loss. But the black +tribes which dogged the steps of each expedition, and amongst whom, +probably, were the slayers of Kennedy and Gilbert, met at the hands +of the Brothers the treatment they deserved. If the lessons were +severe, they were in every case of the native's own seeking, and were +administered in fair and open combat, in which few of the white party +were without having narrow escapes to record; but a providential good +fortune seemed to attend them, for every member got through the +journey without accident. An account has been furnished to the +newspapers in the form of a journal by Mr. Richardson, the Surveyor +appointed to accompany the expedition, but it is much too brief and +epitomized to do justice to the subject, and omits altogether the +detached and independant trips of the Brothers whilst exploring ahead +to find the best country through which to take the herd; and, as the +Brothers Jardine themselves would probably much rather repeat their +journey than write a full account of it, it has devolved on the +Editor to attempt to put before the public a compilation of their +journals in such form as will give the narrative sufficient interest +to carry with it the attention of the reader to the end. Although +the matter is ample, this is no easy task for an unpracticed pen, for +to the general reader, the usual monotonous details and entries of an +explorer's notes, which alone give them value to the geographer, +cannot be hoped to excite interest or command attention. But the +journey was full of incident, and the Brothers, although not +scientific naturalists, were keen sportsmen, excelling in all +exercises requiring strength and activity, who had acquired from +their training in the bush that sharpening of the senses and faculty +of observing, the peculiar result of a life in the wilds, which not +only so well fitted them for the conduct of such an expedition, but +also enabled them to note and describe with accuracy the various +interesting objects in botany and zoology met with in the course of +their journey. It is therefore hoped that there will be sufficient +to interest each class of reader. Aided by Mr. Jardine, senior, a +gentleman of large experience in both Botany and Natural History, the +Editor has been enabled to supply the generic names of the birds and +plants met with; which, in many cases, if not altogether new, are +interesting as determining the range and habitat of the birds, and +the zones of vegetation and trees; but it is to be regretted that +there was no one in the party having sufficient knowledge of drawing +to figure such objects, or to delineate some of the more striking +scenes and incidents of the journey. As these can now only be +supplied from the graphic descriptions given by the actors in them, +the Editor, without drawing too much on his imagination, has, in the +compilation of the journals, attempted in some cases to supplement +what was wanted in the text, so as to give the narrative such color +as would make it more readable than a mere journal, but in every case +rendering the descriptions of the prominent incidents of the journey +almost in the original words of the writers, merely adding as much as +would save the text from abruptness. He has adhered to the diurnal +form of narrative, for the sake of recording, for the benefit of +future travellers, the numbers, marks, latitude, etc., of each camp, +and endeavoured to compass by this composite method the value of a +work of record with the interest of a narrative. + +<p>It is also to be regretted that so long a time should have been +allowed to elapse between the end of the journey and the publication +of these pages. The causes of the delay are—first, the +indisposition on the part of the Brothers to "go into print," their +modesty leading them to imagine they had done nothing worth "writing +about," nor was it until the writer pressed them to allow him to +compile and edit their journals that they consented to make them +public; next, the want of leisure on the part of the compiler, whose +official duties have prevented application to his task, save in +detached and interrupted periods; and last, by the difficulty of +making arrangements for publication at a distance. + +<p>If his labor secures to the young explorers the credit and praise +which is the just and due reward of a gallant achievement, and adds a +page of interest to the records of Australian Exploration, his aim +will have been attained, and he will be fully rewarded. + +<p>The Hermitage, <i>Rockhampton, December</i>, 1866. + +<h3>INTRODUCTION.</h3> + +<p>In presenting the following pages to the Reader, it may not be out of +place to take a retrospect of the progress of Australian Settlement +generally, and particularly in the young northern colony of +Queensland. + +<p>During the last six years the great question of the character of +Central Australia, in the solution of which the lives of the +unfortunate Leichhardt and his party have been sacrificed, has been +set at rest by the memorable trip of Burke and Wills, and no less +memorable, but more fortunate one of McDouall Stewart. The Search +Expeditions of McKinlay, Howitt, Landsborough, and Walker, have made +it still more familiar, their routes connecting the out-settlements +of South Australia with those of the Gulf Shores and East Coast, and +adding their quota of detail to the skeleton lines of Leichhardt, +Gregory, and Burke and Wills; whilst private enterprise has, during +that time, been busy in further filling in the spaces, and utilizing +the knowledge gained by occupying the waste lands thus opened up. + +<p>It is questionable whether the amount of available country thus made +known has not been dearly purchased, by the very large sums that have +been expended, and the valuable lives that have been lost in its +exploration; the arid and waterless wastes of the interior, which +have now been proved equally subject to terrific droughts and +devastating floods, make it improbable that the Settlements of the +North Coast and the Southern Colonies can be connected by a +continuous line of occupation for many years to come; the rich +pastoral tracts of Arnheim's Land, the Victoria River, the Gulf +Coast, and Albert and Flinders Rivers, are thus the only localities +likely to be made use of for the present; these, however, have been +known since the first explorations of Leichhardt and Gregory; we are +forced, therefore, to the conclusion that the results of the +subsequent expeditions are not commensurate with their cost and +sacrifices, and to consider whether further exploration may not be +safely left to private enterprise. + +<p>Let us now glance at what has been done since 1860 in the way of +occupation. South Australia has founded on theNorth Coast a +Settlement at Adam Bay, on the Adelaide River, but its progress seems +to have been marked from the onset by misfortune. The officer +charged with its formation, in a short time managed to raise so +strong a feeling of dissatisfaction and dislike amongst the settlers +as to call for a Commission of Enquiry on his administration, which +resulted in his removal. His successor seems, by latest accounts to +have raised up no less dislike, the difference of his rule being +likened by the papers to that of the fabled kings, Log and Stork. +The site of the Settlement, Escape Cliffs, has been universally +condemned; one charge against the first Resident being, that it was +selected in opposition to the almost unanimous opinion of the +colonists. The subject was referred for final report to John +McKinley, the well-known Explorer, who, bearing out the general +opinion, at once condemned it, and set out to explore the country in +search for a better. In this he has not discovered any new locality, +but has recommended Anson Bay, at the mouth of the Daly, a site +previously visited, but rejected by the first Resident. Previous to +his visit to Anson Bay, Mr. McKinlay started with a well-equiped +party for an exploring trip, which was to last twelve months. At the +end of five he returned, after one of the most miraculous escapes of +himself and party from destruction on record, having only penetrated +to the East Alligator River, about 80 miles from Adam Bay; here he +became surrounded by floods, and only saved his own and the lives of +his party (loosing all else) by the desperate expedient of making a +boat of the hides of their horses, in which they floated down the +swollen river, and eventually reached the Settlement. It is not +improbable that in some such a flood poor Leichhardt and his little +band lost their lives, and all trace of their fate has been +destroyed. These experiences have caused some doubt and despondency +as to the future of the new Settlement, and the question is now being +agitated in the South Australian Parliament as to the desirability or +not of abandoning it. + +<p>Western Australia has formed the Settlements of Camden Harbor, and +Nickol Bay. The latter (the country around which was explored by Mr. +Francis Gregory, brother to the Surveyor-General of Queensland, in +1861), appears to have progressed favorably, the Grey, Gascoigne, +Oakover and Lyons Rivers affording inducements to stockholders to +occupy them, but the Settlement of Camden Harbor at the time of the +visit of Mr. Stow in his boat-voyage from Adam Bay to Champion Bay, +was being abandoned by the colonists, the country being unsuitable +for stock, and it would appear from that gentleman's account that the +whole of the north-west coast of the continent, from its general +character, offers but little inducement for settlement. + +<blockquote>[footnote] *Since this was written the settlement has been abandoned. +[NOTE—the footnote in the INTRODUCTION does not have a referent in +the text—there is no asterisk in the text. It is not clear +whether the <i>settlement</i> it refers to as having been abandoned is at +Adam Bay or in Western Australia.]</blockquote> + +<p>The explorations of Francis Gregory to the eastward from Nickol Bay, +and of the Surveyor-General to the south from the Victoria River, +were both arrested by wastes of drift-sand, whilst those from the +western seaboard have not been extended further inland than to more +than an average of 3 degrees of longitude. It may reasonably be +doubted, therefore, whether settlement will be much extended in that +direction. + +<p>Queensland, more fortunate in the character of the country, has, on +her part, successfully established six new settlements, to wit, +Mackay, at the Pioneer River; Bowen, Port Denison; Townsville, +Cleveland Bay; Cardwell, Rockingham Bay; Somerset, Cape York; and +Burke Town, at the Albert River; and there can be little doubt but +that the country of the Gulf shores and the northern territory of +South Australia must be <i>stocked</i>, if not settled, from the same +source. Already have our hardy pioneers driven their stock out as +far as the Flinders, Albert, Leichhardt, and Nicholson Rivers, the +Flinders and Cloncurry having been stocked along their length for +some time past. On the South and West, the heads of the Warrego, the +Nive, Barcoo, and Thompson have also been occupied, some of the +stations being between four and five hundred miles from the seaboard, +whilst the surveyors of the Roads Department have extended their +surveys as far as the two last-named rivers, for the purpose of +determining the best and shortest lines of communication. The +Government, with wise liberality, has facilitated the access from the +seaboard to the interior, by the expenditure of large sums in +constructing and improving passes through the Coast Range on four +different points, and by the construction of works on the worst +portions of the roads, have largely reduced the difficulties of +transport for the out-settlers. Bowen, a town which had no existence +six years ago, has been connected with Brisbane by the telegraph +wire, and ere another twelve months have elapsed the electric flash +will have placed Melbourne, in Victoria, and Burke Town, on the Gulf +of Carpentaria, "on speaking terms," the country between the latter +place and Cleveland Bay having been examined and determined on for a +telegraph line by the experienced explorer Walker for that purpose. + +<p>Of the six new settlements that have been called into existence, two, +Bowen and Townsville, have been incorporated, and are now, together +with Mackay, straining in the race to secure the trade of the western +interior. Cardwell has experienced a check, in consequence of an +undue haste in the adoption of a line of road over its Coast Range, +which is too difficult to be generally adopted, and will probably be +abandoned for a better since discovered; but its noble harbour is too +good, and the extent of back country it commands too extensive in +area, for it not ultimately to take its place as an important port. +Burke Town is but starting into existence, but already supplies the +settlers of the Flinders and other Gulf rivers with which it has +opened communication. Mr. William Landsborough, the well-known +explorer, has been charged with the administration of its affairs, +and a survey staff has been despatched to lay out the lands. Vessels +now trade direct from Brisbane with some regularity, which services +will, no doubt, soon be re-placed by steamers. + +<p>But it is with Somerset, Cape York, that we have more especial +concern. In the August of 1862, Sir George Bowen, Governor of +Queensland, being on a voyage of inspection to the Northern Ports, in +Her Majesty's Steamer "Pioneer," visited Port Albany, Cape York, and +on his return, in a despatch to the Imperial Government, recommended +it for the site of a Settlement, on account of its geographical +importance, as harbor of refuge, coaling station, and entrepot for +the trade of Torres Straits and the Islands of the North Pacific. +The following year the formation of a Settlement was decided upon, +the Home Government sending out a detachment of Marines to be +stationed there, and assist in its establishment. The task of +establishing the new Settlement was confided to Mr. Jardine, then +Police Magistrate of Rockhampton, than whom, perhaps, no man could be +found more fitted for its peculiar duties. An experienced official, +a military man, keen sportsman, and old bushman, he possessed, in +addition to an active and energetic temperament, every quality and +experience necessary for meeting the varied and exceptional duties +incident to such a position. It was whilst making the arrangements +for the expedition by sea, which was to transport the staff, +materiel, and stores of the Settlement, that Mr. Jardine, foreseeing +the want of fresh provision, proposed to the Government to send his +own sons, Frank and Alexander, overland with a herd of cattle to form +a station from which it might be supplied. This was readily acceded +to, the Government agreeing to supply the party with the services of +a qualified surveyor, fully equipped, to act as Geographer, by noting +and recording their course and the appearance of the country +traversed, and also horses, arms, and accoutrements for four native +blacks, or as they are commonly called in the colonies, Black-boys. +Although the account of poor Kennedy's journey from Rockingham Bay to +Cape York, in which his own and half his party's lives were +sacrificed, was not very encouraging for the intended expedition, Mr. +Jardine never for a moment doubted of its success, and looked forward +to meeting his sons at Somerset as a matter of course. In the prime +of youth and health (their ages were but 22 and 20), strong, active, +and hardy, inured to the life and habits of the bush, with an +instinct of locality, which has been alluded to as having "la +Boussole dans la tete," they were eminently fitted for the task, and +eagerly undertook it when proposed. How well they carried it out, +although, unfortunately, with so little benefit to themselves, is +here recorded. Had poor Wills been associated with such companions +there would have been a different tale to tell to that which lends so +melancholy an interest to his name, and we should now have him +amongst us to honor, instead of a monument to his memory, a monument, +which in honoring the dead, rebukes the living. + +<p>The loss of three-fourths of their horses, and a fifth of their +cattle, together with a large equipment, has made the enterprise of +the Messrs. Jardine, speaking financially, little short of a failure, +but at their age the mind is resilient, and not easily damped by +misfortune. On their return to Brisbane the Government, with kind +consideration, proposed to place such a sum on the Estimates of +Parliament as would indemnify them, and at the same time mark its +sense of the high merit and importance of their journey, but this, +through their father, they respectfully declined, Frank Jardine +giving as his reason, that as the expedition was a private enterprise +and not a public undertaking, he did not consider himself entitled to +any indemnity from the public. Opinions may be divided on such a +conclusion, but in it we cannot but recognise a delicacy and nobility +of sentiment as rare, unfortunately, as it is admirable. Yet, if +they have thus voluntarily cut themselves off from the substantial +rewards which have hitherto recompensed other explorers, they are +still entitled to the high praise and commendation of all who admire +spirit and determination of purpose, and cannot be insensible to +their applause. And it is in recognition that such is their due, +that the writer has undertaken to bring this narrative before the +public. + +<h3>CHAPTER I.</h3> + +<blockquote>Start from Rockhampton—Alexander Jardine explores the Einasleih— +Newcastle Range—Pluto Creek—Canal Creek—Basaltic Plateau— +Warroul Creek—Parallel Creek—Galas Creek—Porphyry Islands— +Alligators' tracks—Bauhinia Plains—Discovers error as to River +Lynd—Return—The Nonda—Burdekin duck—Simon's Gap— +Arrival of the cattle—Preparation for final start.</blockquote> + +<p>On the 14th of May, 1864, the overland party which was to take cattle +to the new settlement at Cape York, was started by Mr. Frank Jardine, +from Rockhampton, under the charge of his brother Alexander. It +comprised ten persons, with thirty-one horses. The instructions were +to travel by easy stages to Port Denison, and there wait the arrival +of the Leader. In the following month, Mr. Jardine, senior, taking +with him his third son John, sailed for Brisbane, and shortly after +from thence to Somerset, Cape York, in the Eagle, barque, chartered +by the Government, for transport of material, etc., arriving there at +the end of June. + +<p>Mr. Frank Jardine, taking with him the surveyor attached to the +expedition, Mr. A. J. Richardson, arrived at Bowen by sea, about the +middle of July, when the party was again moved forward, he himself +starting off to make the purchase of the cattle. Five more horses +were purchased on account of the Government in Bowen, for Mr. +Richardson, making a total of forty-two. The prevalence of +pleuro-pneumonia made it a matter of some difficulty for Mr. F. +Jardine to get suitable stock for his purpose, and caused +considerable delay. Arrangements having at length been made with Mr. +William Stenhouse, of the River Clarke, the party was divided at the +Reedy Lake Station, on the Burdekin, Mr. A. Jardine moving forward +with the pack horses and equipment, leaving the Leader with Messrs. +Scrutton and Cowderoy, and three black boys to muster and fetch on +the cattle. The advance party started on the 17th August, and +arrived at Carpentaria Downs, the station of J. G. Macdonald, Esq., +on the 30th. This was at that time the furthest station to the North +West, and was intended to be made the final starting point of the +expedition, by the permission of Mr. Macdonald, from whom the party +received much kindness. On their way they were joined by Mr. Henry +Bode, a gentleman who was in search of country to occupy with stock. +After remaining in camp at Carpentaria Downs for a few days, Mr. A. +Jardine decided on utilizing the interval, which must elapse before +his brother could re-join him with the cattle, by exploring the +country ahead, so as to faciliate the march of the stock on the final +start. Accordingly, leaving the camp in charge of Mr. Richardson, +with Mr. Binney, and two black boys, he started on the 3rd of +September, taking with him the most trusty of his black boys, "old +Eulah," and one pack-horse, and accompanied by Mr. Bode, who took +advantage of the opportunity to have a look at the country. As Mr. +Bode had his own black boy with him, the party comprised four, with +two pack-horses, carrying provision for three weeks. About the same +time Mr. Macdonald started with a party of three to find a road for +his stock to the Gulf, where he was about to form a station; the +account of which trip has been published bythat gentleman. + +<p>The stream on which Carpentaria Downs station is situated was +supposed to be the "Lynd" of Leichhardt and was so called and known; +but as this was found to be an error, and that it was a tributary of +the Gilbert, it will be distinguished by the name it subsequently +received, the Einasleih. Keeping the right bank of the river which +was running strongly two hundred yards wide, the party travelled six +miles to a small rocky bald hill, under which they passed on the +north side; and thence to a gap in a low range, through which the +river forces its way. Travelling down its bed for a +quarter-of-a-mile, they crossed to its left bank, on to a large level +basaltic plain; but here the extent of the rocky ground made the +travelling so bad for the horses, although shod, that it was +impossible to proceed, and the river was therefore re-crossed. Five +miles more of rough travelling over broken stony ironbark ridges, +brought them to a second gorge, formed by two spurs of a range, +running down to the river banks on either side, where they camped, +having made about 15 miles on a general course of N.W. by N. To the +south of this gorge, and running parallel with the river, is a high +range of hills, which received the name of the Newcastle Range. +(Camp I.) + +<p><i>September</i> 4.—Resuming their journey, the party passed through a +gap in the northern spur, described yesterday, about a +quarter-of-a-mile from the camp. From this gap a point of the range +on the south side was sighted, running into the river, and for this +they steered. At 4 miles a small lagoon was passed, 300 yards out +from the river, and a quarter-of-a-mile further on, a broad, shallow, +sandy creek(then dry), which was named "Pluto Creek." At 8 miles a +small rugged hill was passed on the left hand, and the point of the +range steered for reached at 9. At 12 a large well-watered creek was +crossed, and the party camped at the end of 18 miles on a similar +one. The general course N.N.W., and lay chiefly over very stony +ridges, close to the river banks. The timber was chiefly box, +iron-bark, and melaleuca, the latter growing in the shallow bed, in +which also large granite boulders frequently occurred. Though +shallow, it contained fine pools and reaches of water, in some of +which very fine fish were observed. Eighteen miles (Camp II.) + +<p><i>September</i> 5.—After crossing the creek, on which they had camped, +at its junction, the party followed down a narrow river flat for four +miles, to where a large sandy creek joins it from the north. The +steepness of its banks and freedom from fallen timber, suggested the +name of "Canal Creek"—it is about 80 yards wide. Two miles +further down a small creek joins, and at 12 miles a high rocky hill +was reached. From this hill a bar of granite rock extends across the +river to a similar one on the south side. A fine view was obtained +from its summit showing them the course of the river. Up to this +point the course had been N.W. After passing through a gap, +immediately under and on the north of the rocky hill they were forced +by the river into a northerly course for two miles, at which they +crossed a spur of the range running into it, so rugged that they were +obliged to lead their horses. Beyond this they emerged on to a +basaltic plain, timbered with box and bloodwood, and so stony as to +render the walking very severe for the horses. The basalt continued +for the rest of the day. At about 18 miles a large creek was +crossed, running into an ana-branch. The banks of the river which +border the basaltic plain are very high and steep on both sides. +Running the ana-branch down for four miles, the camp was pitched, +after a tedious and fatiguing day's march. (Camp III.) + +<p><i>September</i> 6.—The ana-branch camped on last night being found to +run parallel to the course of the river, received the name of +Parallel Creek. Its average width is about 150 yards, well watered, +and full of melaleucas and fallen timber. The country on its north +bank down to its junction with the river 20 miles from the junction +of Warroul Creek, is broken into ridges of quartz and sand-stone, +stony, and poorly grassed. That contained between its south bank and +the river, the greatest width of which is not more than three miles, +is a basaltic plateau, terminating in precipitous banks on the river, +averaging 50 feet in perpendicular height. To avoid the stones on +either side, there being no choice between the two, the party +travelled down the bed of Parallel Creek the whole day. At about 9 +miles stringy bark appeared on the ridges of the north bank. Large +flocks of cockatoo parrots (<i>Nymphicus Nov. Holl.</i>) were seen during +the day, and a "plant" of native spears was found. They were neatly +made, jagged at the head with wallaby bones, and intended for +throwing in the Wommerah or throwing stick. At the end of 20 miles +the party reached the junction of Parallel Creek with the river and +encamped. The general course was about N.W. (Camp IV.) + +<p><i>September</i> 7.—The party was now happily clear of the basaltic +country, but the travelling was still none of the best, the first +nine miles of to-day's stage being over stony ridges of quartz and +iron-stone, interspersed with small, sandy, river flats. At this +distance a large creek of running water was crossed, and the camp +pitched at about two miles from its junction with the Einasleih. The +creek received the name of Galaa Creek, in allusion to the galaa or +rose cockatoo (<i>Cacatua Rosea</i>), large flocks of which were +frequently seen. The junction of Galaa Creek is remarkable for two +porphyritic rock islands, situated in the bed of the river, which is +here sandy, well watered, and about 300 yards wide. The grass was +very scarce, having been recently burned. The timber chiefly +iron-bark and box. Course N.W. 1/2 W., distance 10 miles (Camp V.) + +<p><i>September</i> 8.—To-day the river was followed down over low broken +stony ranges, having their crests covered with "garrawan" scrub for 5 +miles, when the party was gratified by an agreable change in the +features of the country. Instead of the alternative of broken +country, stony ridges, or basaltic plains they had toiled over for +nearly 80 miles, they now emerged on to fine open well-grassed river +flats, lightly timbered, and separated by small spurs of ridges +running into them. A chain of small lagoons was passed at 12 miles, +teeming with black duck, teal, wood duck, and pigmy geese, whilst +pigeons and other birds were frequent in the open timber, a sure +indication of good country. At 13 miles a small creek was crossed, +and another at 18, and after having made a good stage of 25 miles the +party again camped on the Einasleih. At this point it had increased +to a width of nearly a mile, the banks were low and sloping, and the +bed shallow and dry. It was still nevertheless, well watered, the +stream, as is not unusual in many of our northern rivers, continuing +to run under the surface of the sand, and requiring very slight +digging or even scratching, to be got at. The general course +throughout the day was about N.W.1/2W. (Camp VI.) + +<p><i>September</i> 9.—The course down the river was resumed over similar +country to that of yesterday. Keeping at the back of some low +table-topped hills, at 5 miles the party struck a fine clear deep +lagoon, about two miles in from the river, of which it is the +overflow. A chain of small waterholes occurs at 12 miles, which were +covered with ducks and other water-fowl, whilst immense flocks of a +slate-colored pigeon were seen at intervals. They are about the same +size as the Bronzewing, and excessively wild.* The river, when again +struck, had resumed running. It was still sandy and full of the +graceful weeping melaleuca in the bed, where traces of alligators +were observed. The country traversed throughout the day was good, +but the small plains and flats were thought likely to be swampy in +wet weather. Another good stage of 26 miles was made, and the party +again camped on the river. The general course was due west. (Camp +VII.) + +<blockquote>[footnote] * <i>The Phaps Histrionica, or Harlequin Bronzewing.</i></blockquote> + +<p><i>September</i> 10.—Taking his course from the map he carried, shewing +the river running north-west, and depending on its correctness, Mr. +Jardine bore to the north-west for 15 miles, travelling over sandy +honey-combed rises, and low swampy plains, when he reached a +watershed to the north, which he then supposed must be the head of +Mitchell waters, finding himself misled by his map and that he had +left the river altogether, he turned south by west and did not reach +it before the end of 8 miles on that bearing, when the party camped +on a small ana-branch. The true course of the river would thus be +about W. by N. Total distance 23 miles. (Camp VIII.) + +<p><i>September</i> 11.—This day's journey was over fine country. The +first course was N.W. for about 5 miles, to a large round shallow +lagoon, covered with quantities of wild fowl, and thence, following +the direction of the river into camp about 13 miles, over a +succession of large black soil plains covered with good grasses, +mixed herbs, and salt bush. The principal timber being bauhinia, +suggested the name of "Bauhinia Plains." Their width back from the +river extended to an average of six miles, when they were bounded by +low well-grassed iron-bark ridges. The river was broad and sandy, +running in two or three channels, and occasionally spreading into +long reaches. Large ana-branches, plentifully watered, left the main +channel running back from it from 1 to 3 miles. A great many fishing +weirs were observed in the channels of the river, from which it would +appear that the blacks live much, if not principally, on fish. They +were well and neatly constructed. (Camp IX.) + +<p><i>September</i> 12.—Alexander Jardine, having now travelled 180 miles +from Carpentaria Downs, was convinced that the river he had traced +this distance could not be the Lynd of Leichhardt. The reasons which +forced this conclusion on him were three:—Firstly, the discription +of the country in no wise tallied. Secondly, the course of the river +differed. And thirdly, although he had travelled further to the west +than Leichhardt's junction of the Lynd and Mitchell, he had not even +been on Mitchell waters, the northern watershed he had been on, on +the 10th, being that of a small creek, doubling on itself, and +running into this river. Having thus set the matter at rest in his +own mind, he determined to re-trace his steps, and accordingly +started back this morning and camped at night at the shallow lagoon, +passed the day previous. On the way they shot several ducks and a +bustard. These are very numerous on the plains, but wild and +unapproachable, as they most frequently are in the north. At each +camp on his journey Mr. Jardine regularly marked a tree A.J. and the +number of the Camp. + +<p><i>September</i> 13.—The party travelled back over Bauhinia Plains, and +camped on the river, near camp 8 of the outward journey. At night +they went fishing, and got a number of fine perch, and a small +spotted fish. Distance 24 miles. + +<p><i>September</i> 14.—To-day the party saw blacks for the first time +since leaving Carpentaria Downs. They "rounded them up," and had a +parley, without hostility on either side, each being on the +defensive, and observing the other. They bore no distinctive +character, or apparent difference to the Rockhampton tribes, and were +armed with reed speers and wommerahs. For the first time also they +met with the ripe fruit of the Palinaria, the "Nonda" of Leichhardt. +The distance travelled was 27 miles, which brought them to the 7th +camp on the outward journey. + +<p><i>September</i> 15.—Following up the course of the river, the 6th camp +was reached in 26 miles, where the feed was so good that Mr. Jardine +determined to halt for a day and recruit the horses. On the way they +again passed some natives who were fishing in a large lagoon, but +shewed no hostility. They had an opportunity of seeing their mode of +spearing the fish, in which they used a long heavy four-pronged +spear, barbed with kangaroo bones. + +<p><i>September</i> 16.—Was spent in fishing and hunting, whilst the +horses luxuriated in the abundant feed. They caught some perch, and +a fine cod, not unlike the Murray cod in shape, but darker and +without scales. At night, there being a fine moonlight, they went +out to try and shoot opossums as an addition to the larder, but were +unsuccessful. They appeared to be very scarce. + +<p><i>September</i> 17.—Resuming their journey, the party travelled 21 +miles, to a spot about 4 miles below No. 5 camp, on Gaala Creek, and +turned out. Here they met with wild lucerne in great abundance, and +a great deal of mica and talc was observed in the river. During the +day Mr. Jardine shot a bustard, and some fish being again caught in +the evening, there was high feeding in camp at night. The bagging of +a bustard, or plain turkey as it is more commonly called, always +makes a red day for the kitchen. Its meat is tender and juicy, and +either roasted whole, dressed into steaks, or stewed into soup, makes +a grateful meal for a hungry traveller. + +<p><i>September</i> 18.—Keeping out some distance from its banks to avoid +the stones and deep gullies, the party followed up the river to the +junction of Parallel Creek: this was traced, keeping along its bed +for the same reason, by which course only they were enabled to avoid +them. These, as before described, were very thickly strewn making +the journey tedious and severe on the horses, so that only 14 miles +were accomplished, when they camped on a large waterhole five miles +above the junction. The beautiful Burdekin duck (<i>Tadorna Radjah</i>) +was met with, of which Mr. Jardine shot a couple. + +<p><i>September</i> 19.—Still keeping along the bed of Parallel Creek, the +party travelled up its course. This they were constrained to do, in +consequence of the broken and stony banks and country on the east +side, whilst an abrupt wall of basalt prevented them leaving the bed +on the west. At 13 miles they camped for a couple of hours in the +middle of the day, on a large creek which received the name of +Warroul Creek, suggested by their finding two large "sugar bags" or +bees' nests on it, "Warroul" being the name for bee in the Wirotheree +or Wellington dialect. Warroul Creek runs into Parallel Creek from +the south-east, joining it about half-a-mile below where it leaves +the river, it being as before mentioned an ana-branch of the +Einasleih. Leaving Parallel and travelling up Warroul Creek, in 8 +miles they reached the gap in the range 12 miles below camp No. 2. +This afterwards received the name of Simon's Gap, and the range it +occurs in, Jorgensen's Range, after Simon Jorgensen, Esq., of +Gracemere. Two miles, from the gap they struck a large round swamp +which had not been observed on the down journey, the party having +kept close to the river, from which it is distant two miles. This +was named "Cawana Swamp" There being good grass there, they camped. +Native companions (<i>Crus Australalasinus</i>) and the more rare jabiru +(<i>Myeteria Australis</i>) were very numerous on it. Total distance 23 +miles. + +<p><i>September</i> 20.—To-day the party made the lagoon mentioned on the +4th inst., a distance of 27 miles, traversing nearly the same ground +already described and camped. They again saw a mob of blacks fishing +in the river, who, on seeing them, immediately decamped into the +ranges on the opposite side and disappeared. The next day, Mr. +Macdonald's station, Carpentaria Downs was reached in 17 miles, the +little party having travelled over nearly 360 miles of ground in 18 +days. Mr. Jardine found all well at the main camp, but no sign of +his brother with the cattle; fifteen days passed before his arrival, +during which time Alexander Jardine plotted up the courses of his +journey down the Einasleih, and submitted the plan to Mr. Richardson, +without, however, shaking the gentleman's faith as to his position, +or that they were on Leichhardt's Lynd, preferring to dispute the +accuracy of the reckoning. It will be seen, however, that the +explorer was right, and the surveyor wrong. It being expedient that +the party should husband their rations for the journey until the +final start, Mr. Macdonald kindly supplied them with what was +necessary for their present wants, thus allowing them to keep their own +stores intact. + +<p>On the 6th of October, Frank Jardine made his appearance with the +cattle, a mob of about 250 head of bullocks and cows in good +condition. The ensuing three days were spent by the brothers in +shoeing the horses, a job of no little tedium and difficulty, they +being the only farriers of the party. There were 42 head to shoe, +many of which had never been shod before, and as the thermometer +stood at 100 degrees in the shade most of the day, their office was +no sinecure; they had at first some difficulty in getting a +sufficient heat, but after a little experimenting found a wood of +great value in that particular. This was the apple-gum, by using +which, they could if necessary get a white heat in the iron. At the +end of the third day the last horse was shod, and it only remained to +get the stores and gear together, and dispose them on the different +packs. This was done on the 10th, on the evening of which they were +ready for the final start. The party was thus composed: Frank +Lacelles Jardine, Leader; Alexander Jardine, Archibald J. Richardson, +Government Surveyor; C. Scrutton, R. N. Binney, A. Cowderoy, Eulah, +Peter, Sambo and Barney, black boys from the districts of Rockhampton +and Wide Bay; 41 picked horses and 1 mule, all in good order and +condition. + +<p>Their provision was calculated to last them 4 months, and was +distributed together with the tools, amunition, and camp necessaries +on 18 packs, averaging at the start about 150 lbs. each. It +consisted of 1200 lbs. flour, 3 cwt. sugar, 35 lbs. of tea, 40 lbs. +currants and raisins, 20 lbs. peas, 20 lbs. jams, salt, etc. The +black troopers were armed with the ordinary double-barrelled police +carbine, the whites carrying Terry's breech-loaders, and Tranter's +revolvers. They had very ample occasion to test the value and +efficiency of both these arms, which, in the hands of cool men, are +invaluable in conflict. + +<p>The personalities of the party were reduced to a minimum, and what +was supposed to be absolutely necessary, one pack (the mule's) being +devoted to odds and ends, or what are termed in bush parlance, +<i>manavlins</i>. Three light tents only were carried, more for +protecting the stores than for shelter for the party. + +<p>All were in excellent health, and good spirits, and eager to make a start. + +<h3>CHAPTER II.</h3> + +<blockquote>Start from Carpentaria Downs—Order of Travel—Canal Creek— +Cawana Swamp—Simons' Gap—Cowderoy's Bluff—Barney's Nob— +Casualties in Parallel Creek—Basaltic Wall—Singular Fish— +Black Carbonado—Improvement in Country—Search for the Lynd— +Doubts—First rain—Error of Starting point—Large ant-hills— +Ship's iron found—Native nets—Second start in search of Lynd— +Return—Byerley Creek—The whole party moves forward—Belle +Creek—Maroon Creek—Cockburn Creek—Short Commons—Camp +Burned—The Powder saved—Maramie Creek—The Staaten—First +hostility of Natives—Poison—"Marion" abandoned—Conclusion as +to River—Heavy rain—First attack of Natives—Horses lost— +Barren Country—Detention—Leader attacked by Natives— +Black-boy attacked—A "growl"—Mosquitoes and flies—Kites— +Cattle missing—Horses found—Leader again attacked—Main party +attacked—Return to the River—Character of Staaten—Lagoon +Creek—Tea-tree levels—Junction of Maramie Creek—Reach head +of tide—Confirmation of opinion.</blockquote> + +<p><i>October</i> 11.—At sunrise the cattle was started with Cowderoy and +two black-boys, Eulah and Barney, the former acting as pilot. Their +instructions were to camp at the swamp at the junction of Pluto +Creek, seventeen miles from McDonald's station, mentioned on 3rd. +September. The pack-horses were not got away until half-past 12, +two, "Rasper," and the mule (as often provokingly happens when most +wanted) being astray, and having to be hunted for. There was also +the usual amount of "bucking" incident to a start, the unpractised +pack-horses rebelling against the unwonted load and amount of gear, +and with a few vigorous plunges sending pack-bags, pots, hobbles, and +chains in scattered confusion all round them. Few starts of a large +party occur without similar mischances, but a day or two, suffices +for the horses to settle to their work, after which all goes +smoothly. The country travelled has been described in the preceding +chapter. A hill at five miles on Pluto Creek, received the name of +Mount Eulah. On reaching the swamp, the brothers found the cattle +party had not arrived. This was the first of many similar annoyances +during the journey. It being between 8 and 9 p.m., it was useless to +think of looking for them at that time of night. They therefore +encamped on the river, intending to return and run the tracks of the +cattle in the morning. The distance travelled was about 20 miles. + +<p><i>October</i> 12.—Leaving Binney in charge of the horses, with orders +to feed them about the Lagoon, where there was better grass than at +the river, the brothers started at sunrise in quest of the cattle +party. They met them at about five miles up Pluto Creek, which they +were running down. It appeared that Master Eulah, the pilot, had got +completely puzzled, and led the party into the ranges to the +eastward, where, after travelling all day, they had been obliged to +camp about half-way from the station, and without water. He was very +chop-fallen about his mistake, which involved his character as a +bushman. The Australian aborigines have not in all cases that +unerring instinct of locality which has been attributed to them, and +are, out of their own country, no better, and generally scarcely so +good as an experienced white. The brothers soon found water for them +in the creek under Mount Eulah; after which,returning to the camp, it +was too late to continue the journey, particularly as it had been +necessary to send one of "the boys" back for a bag of amunition that +had been lost on the way. This is the work they are most useful in, +as few, even of the best bushmen are equal to them in running a +track. The day's stage of the cattle was about 11 miles. + +<p><i>October</i> 13.—The cattle started at a quarter-to-six, in charge of +Alexander Jardine and two black-boys, while Frank and the rest of the +party remained behind to pack and start the horses. This at the +commencement was the usual mode of travelling, the horses generally +overtaking the cattle before mid-day, when all travelled together +till they camped at night, or preceded them to find and form the +camp. Two incidents occurred on the way: "Postman," a pack-horse on +crossing a deep narrow creek, fell and turned heels uppermost, where +he lay kicking helplessly, unable to rise, until the pack was cut +clear of him; and "Cerberus," another horse, not liking the +companionship of the mule, took occasion in crossing another creek to +kick his long-eared mate from the top to the bottom of it, to the +intense amusement of the black-boys, who screamed "dere go poor +fellow donkit" with great delight. The whole course was about 11 +miles. The camp on a small dry creek. They procured water in the +main channel of the river, on the south side. During the journey at +every camp where there was timber, Mr. Jardine cut (or caused to be +cut) its number with a chisel into the wood of a tree, in Roman +numerals, and his initials generally in a shield. + +<p><i>October</i> 14.—The distance travelled to-day was only 11 miles, but +described by Mr. Jardine, as equal to 20 of fair travelling ground. +The course lay over very stony quartz and granite ridges, which could +not be avoided, as they ran into the river, whilst the bed of the +stream would have been as difficult, being constantly crossed by +rocky bars, and filled by immense boulders. The grass was very +scarce, the blacks having burnt it all along the river. There were +patches where it never grows at all, presenting the appearance of an +earthern floor. They encamped at the junction of Canal Creek, under +the shade of some magnificent Leichhardt trees (<i>Nauclea +Leichhardtii</i>) that grow there, without other water than what they +dug for in the sandy bed, and reached at a depth of two feet. On the +opposite side and about a mile from the junction there is a swamp, +splendidly grassed, which looked like a green barley field, but the +water was too salt for the horses to drink, an unusual thing in +granite country. The timber of the ridges was cheifly stunted hollow +iron-bark, that of the river, bloodwood, and the apple-gum, described +as so good for forging purposes; there was a total absence of those +tall well-grown gums, by which the course of a stream may usually be +traced from a distance. So little was the river defined by the +timber that it could not be distinguished at a half-a-mile away. + +<p><i>October</i> 15.—The party moved to-day as far as the swamp mentioned +on the 19th September. It received the name of "Cawana Swamp," and +is described as the best and prettiest camping place they had yet +seen. It is surrounded by the high stoney range called Jorgensen's +Range on two sides, north and east, whilst on the south and east it +is hemmed in by a stretch of cellular basalt, which makes it almost +unapproachable. The only easy approach is by the river from the +westward. It is six miles round, and so shallow that the cattle fed +nearly a mile towards the middle. The party travelled out of the +direct course to avoid the stones, keeping the narrow flats occuring +between the river and ridges, which averaged about 200 yards in +width; when intercepted by the ridges running into the river, they +followed down its bed which is more clearly defined by oak +(<i>Casuarinae</i>) and Leichhardt trees than up the stream. The improved +travelling allowed them to make the stage of 9 miles in less than +four hours, and turn out early. Several large flocks of galaas +(<i>Cacatua Rosea</i>,) were seen, and Alexander Jardine shot a wallaby. +Before starting, Barney, one of the black-boys had to be corrected by +the Leader for misconduct, which had the effect of restoring +discipline. On reaching Cawana Swamp, the fires of the natives were +found quite fresh, from which it would seem that they had decamped on +the approach of the party, leaving plenty of birrum-burrongs, or +bee-eaters (<i>Merops Ornatus, Gould</i>) behind them. An observation +taken at night gave the latitude 18 degrees 1 minute 59 seconds, +which gave about 41 miles of Northing. + +<p><i>October</i> 16.—The cattle were started away at a quarter-to-four +o'clock, this morning, and found an excellent passage through +Jorgensen's Range, by "Simon's Gap." The track from this point to +the junction of Warroul and Parallel Creeks with the river (where the +camp was pitched) was very winding, from having to avoid the basalt, +which was laming some of the cattle, besides wrenching off the heads +of the horse-shoe nails: it could not be altogether avoided, and +made it past noon before the cattle reached the camp. A native +companion, a rock wallaby, and a young red kangaroo were the result +of the hunting in the afternoon, which saved the necessity of having +to kill a beast: this would have been specially inconvenient, if not +impossible here, for the natives had burnt all the grass, and there +was not a bite of feed for either horses or cattle, had they halted. +About 50 blacks, all men, followed the tracks of the party from +Cawana Swamp: they were painted, and fully armed, which indicated a +disposition for a "brush" with the white intruders; on being turned +upon, however, they thought better of it, and ran away. The camp was +formed under a red stony bluff, which received the name of +"Cowderoy's Bluff," after one of the party; whilst a large round hill +bearing E.N.E. from the camp was called "Barney's Nob." In the +afternoon Mr. Binney and Eulah were sent to the river to fish, but as +they ate all the caught, there was no gain to the party. For this +their lines were taken from them by Mr. Jardine, and they got a +"talking to," the necessity for which was little creditable to the +white man. The thermometer at 5 a.m. stood at 80 degrees. The day's +stage about 10 miles N.N.W. Some banksias, currijong, and +stringy-bark were noticed to-day, the latter is not a common timber +in the northern districts. + +<p><i>October</i> 17.—All the horses were away this morning: as might +have been expected, the poor hungry creatures had strayed back +towards the good feed on Cawana Swamp, and were found 5 miles from +the camp. The day's stage was the worst they had yet had. The +country down Parallel Creek has already been described, and it took +six of the party five hours to get the cattle over three-and-a-half +miles of ground: the bed of the creek, by which alone they could +travel was intersected every 300 or 400 yards by bars formed of +granite boulders, some of which were from 25 to 30 feet high, and +their interstices more like a quarry than anything else; over these +the cattle had to be driven in two and sometimes three lots, and were +only travelled 8 miles with great difficulty. There were several +casualties; "Lucifer," one of the best of the horses cut his foot so +badly, as to make it uncertain whether he could be fetched on; and +two unfortunate cows fell off the rocks, and were smashed to pieces. +The cows were beginning to calve very fast, and when the calves were +unable to travel, they had to be destroyed, which made the mothers +stray from the camp to where they had missed them; one went back in +this manner the previous night, but it was out of the question to +ride thirty miles after her over the stones they had traversed. The +camp was made in the bed of Parallel Creek, at a spot where there was +a little grass, the whole stage having been almost without any. Here +the basaltic wall was over 80 feet in height, hemming them in from +the west; on some parts during the day it closed in on both sides. +An observation at night made the latitude 17 degrees 51 minutes. A +curious fishwas caught to-day—it had the appearance of a cod, +whose head and tail had been drawn out, leaving the body round. +(Camp VIII.) + +<p><i>October</i>, 18.—Another severe stage, still down the bed of +Parallel Creek, from which indeed there was no issue. Frank Jardine +describes it as a "pass or gorge, through the range which abuts on +each side through perpendicular cliffs, filling it up with great +blocks of stone," and adding that "a few more days of similar country +would bring their horses to a standstill." Their backs and the feet +of the cattle were in a woeful plight from its effects: one horse +was lost, and a bull and several head of cattle completely knocked +up. Bad as yesterday's journey was, this day's beat it; they managed +to travel ten miles over the most villanous country imaginable, with +scarcely a vestage of grass, when the camp was again pitched in the +bed of the creek. A large number of natives were seen to-day—one +mob was disturbed at a waterhole, where they were cooking fish, which +they left in their alarm, together with their arms. The spears were +the first that had been observed made of reed, and a stone tomahawk +was seen, as large as the largest-sized American axe. These blacks +were puny wretched-looking creatures, and very thin. They had a +great number of wild dogs with them—over thirty being counted by +the party. 10 miles, N.W. by W. 1/2 W. (Camp IX.) + +<p><i>October</i> 19.—The confluence of Parallel Creek with the Einasleih +was reached in four miles, after which the country on the river +slightly improved; the camp was pitched four miles further on, on a +river flat, within sight of a large scrub, on the east side. Four of +the cattle that had been knocked up yesterday were sent for before +starting, and fetched—the cattle counted and found correct. The +river at the camp was about 700 yards wide, with fine waterholes in +it, containing plenty of fish. A strange discovery was made to-day. +At a native fire the fresh remains of a negro were found <i>roasted</i>, +the head and thigh bones were alone complete, all the rest of the +body and limbs had been broken up, the skull was full of blood. +Whether this was the body of an enemy cooked for food, or of a friend +disposed of after the manner of their last rites, must remain a +mystery, until the country and its denizens become better known. +Some spears were found pointed with sharp pieces of flint, fastened +on with kangaroo sinews, and the gum of the Xanthorea, or grass-tree. +(Camp X.) + +<p><i>October</i> 20.—The last of the stony ground was travelled over +to-day, and the foot-sore cattle were able to luxuriate in the soft +sandy ground of the river flats. At about 6 miles Galaa Creek was +crossed at Alexander Jardine's marked tree (V in a square), and the +Rocky Island at its junction, before mentioned, were seen. At this +point the ranges come into the river on each side. The camp was +pitched at about five miles further on, at a fine waterhole, where +there was good grass—a welcome change for cattle and horses. It +was not reached, however, till about 9 o'clock. The river afforded +the party some fine fish—cod, perch, and peel, and a lobster +weighing more than half-a-pound. Its channels were very numerous, +making altogether nearly a mile in width. Scrub was in sight during +the whole of the stage, the crests of the broken ridges being covered +with garrawon. (Camp XI.) + +<p><i>October</i> 21.—Mr. Jardine describes to-day's stage as the best the +cattle had experienced since taking delivery of them 230 miles back; +the river banks along which they travelled were flat and soft, +lightly timbered with box, poplar-gum and bloodwood. From a low +table-topped range, which they occasionally sighted on the right, +spurs of sandstone ran into the river at intervals, but were no +obstruction. A cow had to be abandoned knocked up. A couple of +blacks were surprised in the river spearing fish; they set up a howl, +and took to the river. In the evening the whole of the party went +fishing for the pot, there being no meat left. (Camp XII.) Distance +11 miles. The weather to-day was cloudy for the first time, shewing +appearance of rain. + +<p><i>October</i> 22.—The river was travelled down for 10 miles, through +similar and better country than that of yesterday's stage, and the +camp established on a deep narrow well-watered creek, +three-quarters-of-a-mile from its junction with the river. Here the +Leader determined to halt for a few days to recruit the strength of +the horses and cattle, the feed being good; many of the cattle were +lame, two of the hacks were knocked up, and several of the +pack-horses had very sore backs, so that a "spell" was a necessity. +They were now 120 miles from Macdonald's station, having averaged ten +miles a-day since the start + +<p><i>October</i> 23.—The camp was established at this point (Camp XIII.) +pending a reconnaissance by the Leader and his brother to find the +Lynd of Leichhardt, and determine the best line of road for the +stock. A couple of calves were killed, cut up, and jerked, whilst +some of the party employed themselves in the repairs to the saddlery, +bags, etc., and Alexander Jardine took a look at the country back +from the river. Mr. Richardson plotted up his course, when it was +found that it differed from that of the brothers by only one mile in +latitude, and two in longitude; he also furnished the Leader with his +position on the chart, telling him that the Lynd must be about ten +miles N.E. of them, their latitude being 17 degrees 34 minutes 32 +seconds S.* + +<blockquote>[footnote] *In Mr. Richardson's journal he mentions the distances as +18 to 20. He also explains that he had two maps, in which a +difference of 30 miles in longitude existed in the position of their +starting point. Not having a Chronometer to ascertain his longitude +for himself, he adopted that assigned by the tracing furnished from +the Surveyor-General's Office.</blockquote> + +<p><i>October</i> 24.—The brothers started this morning, taking with them +Eulah, as the most reliable of the black-boys; they were provisioned +for five days. The cattle were left in charge of Mr. Scrutton: the +feed being good and water plentiful, the halt served the double +purpose of recruiting their strength, and allowing the Leader to +choose the best road for them. Steering N.E. by E. at a mile, they +passed through a gap in the low range of table-topped hills of red +and white sandstone which had been skirted on the way down: through +this gap a small creek runs into the river, which they ran up, +N.N.E., 3 miles further, on to a small shallow creek, with a little +water in it. Travelling over lightly-timbered sandy ridges, barren +and scrubby, but without stone, at 9 or 10 miles they crossed the +head of a sandy creek, rising in a spring, about 60 yards wide, +having about 5 or 6 inches of water in it. The creek runs through +mimosa and garrawon scrub for 5 miles, and the spring occurs on the +side of a scrubby ridge, running into the creek from the west. At 18 +miles they struck an ana-branch having some fine lagoons in it, and +half-a-mile further on a river 100 yards wide, waterless, and the +channels filled up with melaleuca and grevillea; this, though not +answering to Leichhardt's description, they supposed to be an +ana-branch of the Lynd; its course was north-west. They followed its +left bank down for three miles, then crossing it, they bore N.N.E. +for four miles, through level and sometimes flooded country, when +their course was arrested by a line of high ridges, dispelling the +idea that they were on the Lynd waters. Turning west they now +travelled back to the river, and crossing it, camped on one of the +same chain of lagoons which they first struck in the morning, and in +which they were able to catch some fish for supper. The distance +travelled was 28 miles. + +<p><i>October</i> 25.—It was impossible to believe that the stream they +were now camped on was the Lynd. Leichhardt's description at the +point where they had supposed that they should strike it, made it +stony and timbered with iron-bark and box. Now, since leaving the +Einasleih they had not seen a single box or iron-bark tree, or a +stone. Frank Jardine therefore determined to push out to thenorth-east, +and again seek this seemingly apocryphal stream. After travelling +for eight miles through sandy ridges, scrubby and timbered with +blood-wood, messmate, and melaleuca (upright-leaved) they struck a +sandy creek, bearing north; this they followed for five miles, when +it turned due west, as if a tributary of the stream they had left in +the morning. Having seen no water since then, it was out of the +question to attempt bringing the cattle across at this point. It was +determined therefore that they should return and mark a line from the +Einasleih to the lagoons they had camped on last night, along which +cattle could travel slowly, whilst the brothers again went forward to +look for a better road from that point, and ascertain definitely +whether they were on the Lynd or not. Turning west they travelled 28 +miles to the creek they had left in the morning, striking it more +than 40 miles below their camp, when, to their surprise it was found +running nearly due south and still dry. Here they camped and caught +some fish and maramies (cray-fish) by puddling a hole in the creek, +which, with three pigeons they shot, made a good supper. At night a +heavy thunder-storm broke over them, which lasted from 9 till 12. +Frank Jardine here states himself to have been exceedingly puzzled +between Leichhardt and Mr. Richardson; one or the other of these he +felt must be wrong. Leichhardt describes the stream in that latitude +(page 283 Journal) as stony, and with conical hills of porphyry near +the river banks, "Bergues" running into it on each side. They had +not seen a rise even, in any direction for miles, whilst the creek +presented only occasional rocks of flat water-worn sandstone, and the +screw-palm <i>Pandanus Spiralis</i> occurred in all the water-courses, a +tree that from its peculiarity would scarcely have been unnoticed or +undescribed. As it was quite unlikely that he should have +misrepresented the country, the natural presumption was, that Mr. +Richardson must have been in error as to their true position; this +was in reality the case, the error in his assumed longitude at +starting causing his reckoning to overlap the Lynd altogether. This +is easily seen and explained now, but was at that time a source of +great uncertainty and anxiety to the explorers. + +<p><i>October</i> 26.—Crossing over to the west bank of the river, the +brothers followed it up the whole day along its windings, the general +course being from South-east to East for above 36 miles. They saw +none of the porphyry cliffs described by Leichhardt, or stone of any +kind. The country traversed, consisted of scrubby flats, and low +sandy ridges, timbered with bloodwood, messmate, mimosa, melaleuca, +grevillea, and two or three species of the sterculia or curriijong, +then in full blossom. Thick patches of a kind of tree, much +resembling brigalow in its appearance and grain, were seen on the +river banks; but the box, apple-gum, and iron-bark, mentioned by +Leichhardt as growing in this latitude were altogether wanting. +Large ant-hills, as much as 15 feet in height, which were frequent, +gave a remarkable appearance to the country. During their stage the +party came on to a black's camp, where they found some matters of +interest. The natives, who were puddling a waterhole for fish, had, +as was most frequent, decamped at their appearance, leaving them +leisure to examine some very neatly made reed spears, tipped +variously with jagged hardwood, flint, fish-bones, and iron; pieces +of ship's iron were also found, and a piece of saddle girth, which +caused some speculation as to how or where it had been obtained, and +proving that they must at some time have been on the tracks of white +men. Their nets excited some admiration, being differently worked to +any yet seen, and very handsome; a sort of chain without knots. The +camp was made on an ana-branch of the river, were the travellers +caught a couple of cod-fish. Their expertness as fishermen was a +great stand-by, for they had started without any ration of meat. +They experienced some heavy wind and a thunderstorm at night. + +<p><i>October</i> 27.—Still travelling up the river, the party in about 9 +miles reached the lagoons where they were first struck, and turned +out for a couple of hours. There was good feed round them, in which +the horses solaced themselves, whilst their riders caught some fish +and shot some pigeons for dinner, after which they commenced blazing +the line for the cattle. They reached the main camp at 9 o'clock at +night, having in eight hours marked a line through the best of the +sandy tea-tree ridges, between 18 and 20 miles in length; no +despicable work for three tomahawks. Mr. Jardine communicated the +result of his trip to Mr. Richardson, but that gentleman could or +would not acquiesce in the opinion arrived at by the brothers, +despite the very conclusive arguments with which it was supported. +This opposition occasioned a feeling of want of confidence, which +caused them to cease consulting Mr. Richardson on their course, +leaving him merely to carry out the duty of his appointment. + +<p><i>October</i> 28.—The following day was spent in camp, preparatory to +a fresh start ahead of the cattle, which, it was decided should leave +this camp on the 31st. Some of them could scarcely move, but their +number were found correct on counting. + +<p><i>October</i> 29.—Again taking old Eulah with them, the brothers +started on another quest for the Lynd, which, like the mirage of the +desert, seemed to recede from them as they approached; setting out +late in the day, they camped at night once more on the lagoon, at the +end of their marked-tree line, a distance of about 18 miles. They +took with them four days' rations of flour, tea, and sugar, trusting +to their guns and fishing lines for their supply of meat. + +<p><i>October</i> 30.—Starting at half-past 6 in the morning the little +party steered N. by W. about 36 miles. At about three-quarters +of-a-mile from the river they passed a fine lagoon, and at four miles +further on a rocky creek running west with some water in it. Their +way lay over soft, barren, sandy ridges, timbered with tea-tree. +Eight miles more brought them to a creek where water could be +obtained by digging, and at 24 miles further they camped on a large +well-watered creek, running N.W.; the whole of the distance was over +the same soft, barren, monotonous country. On their way they killed +an iguana (<i>Monitor Gouldii</i>), which made them a good supper, and +breakfast next morning. The cattle party at No. 13 Camp were left +with instructions to follow slowly along the marked-tree line, to +camp at the lagoon, and there await the return of the advance party. + +<p><i>October</i> 31.—An early start was made this morning at a quarter +after 6, and 20 or 22 miles were accomplished on the same bearing as +that of yesterday, N. by W., over the same heavy barren stringy-bark +country. Three small creeks were crossed, but not a hill or rise was +to be seen, or any indication of a river to the northward. At this +point the heavy travelling beginning to tell on their jaded horses, +the Leader determined on abandoning the idea of bringing the cattle +by the line they had traversed, and turning south and by west made +for the river they had left in the morning, intending to ascertain if +it would be the better route for the cattle, and if not, to let them +travel down the supposed Lynd (which now received the name of +Byerley Creek), on which they were to rendezvous. After travelling +16 miles further on the new bearing, they camped without water, being +unable to reach the large creek they had camped on the previous +night. The country along the last course was of the same +description, low, sandy, string-bark, and tea-tree ridges, without a +vestige of water; total distance 38 miles. + +<p><i>November</i> 1.—Making another early start, and steering S.W. by S., +the party reached the creek in four miles, and getting a copious +drink for themselves and their thirsty horses, breakfasted off some +"opossums and rubbish" they got out of a black's camp. The stream +was 100 yards wide, and well-watered, a great relief after their arid +journey of yesterday: large rocks of sandstone occurred inits bed in +different places. Crossing it, they followed down its left bank for +8 miles, its trend being N.W., then turning their back on it, they +steered due south to strike Byerley Creek. Sixteen miles of weary +travelling over wretched barren country brought them to a small sandy +creek, on which they camped, procuring water for their horses by +digging in its bed. Here they made a supper of the lightest, their +rations being exhausted, and "turned in" somewhat disgusted with the +gloomy prospect for the progress of the cattle. They again met with +the nonda of Leichhardt, and ate of its ripe fruit, which is best +when found dry under the trees. Its taste is described as like that +of a boiled mealy potatoe. + +<p><i>November</i> 2.—Continuing on the same course, due south for 18 +miles, over the same useless country, the party reached Byerley +Creek, striking it at a point 32 miles below the Rendezvous Camp, +then turning up its course they followed it for 16 miles, to their +hunting camp of the 26th October. Here they camped and made what +they deemed a splendid supper off an oppossum, an iguana, and four +cod-fish, the result of their day's sport. Total distance travelled +28 miles. + +<p><i>November</i> 3.—Following up the creek for 16 miles, the party +reached the main camp on the lagoons early in the day. Here they +found all right, with the exception that most of the party were +suffering from different stages of sandy-blight, or ophthalmia. A +calf was killed, and the hungry vanguard were solaced with a good +feed of veal. Byerley Creek having been found utterly destitute of +grass, badly watered, and moreover trending ultimately to the S. of +W., the Leader determined to take the cattle on to the next, which +was well watered, having some feed on it, and being on the right +course. There were, however, two long stages without water; but it +was, on the whole, the best and almost only course open to him. The +cattle had made this camp in two stages from the Einasleih. It was, +consequently, No. LI. The latitude was found to be 17 degrees 23 +minutes 24 seconds: a tree was marked with these numbers, in +addition to the usual initial and numbers. The Thermometer at +daylight marked 90 degrees, and at noon 103 degrees, in the <i>shade!</i> + +<p><i>November</i> 4.—A late start was made to-day, a number of the horses +having strayed, and not having been got in. The Brothers went ahead, +and marked a line for five miles out to the creek mentioned on the +30th October: it contained sufficient water for the horses and +cattle, and was the best watercourse they would get until they +reached the next river, a distance of 30 miles. It received the name +of "Belle Creek," in remembrance of "Belle," one of their best +horses, who died at this camp, apparantly from a snake bite, the +symptoms being the same as in the case of "Dora," but the time +shorter. Belle Creek is rocky and tolerably well watered, and +remarkable for the number of nonda trees on it. Whilst waiting for +the cattle the Brothers caught some fish and a fine lot of maramies. + +<p><i>November</i> 5.—This day appears to have been one of disasters. It +opened with the intelligence that sixteen of the horses were missing. +Leaving one party to seek and bring on the stray horses, the Brothers +started the cattle forward: they left instructions at the camp for +the horses to start, if recovered before 3 o'clock; if not, to be +watched all night, and brought on the next day. They then started, +and preceding the cattle, marked a line for 15 miles to "Maroon +Creek." Here they camped without water, waiting with some anxiety +for the arrival of the pack-horses. Hour after hour passed but none +appeared, and as night closed in, the Brothers were forced to the +conclusion that something must have gone wrong at the camp. They +could not however turn back, as they had to mark the next day's stage +for the cattle to water, there being none for them to-night, and only +a little for the party, obtained by digging, however, they were +relieved by the appearance of a blackboy with rations, who reported +that some of the horses had not been found when he left the camp. +The night was spent in watching the thirsty cattle. + +<p><i>November</i> 6.—The cattle were started at dawn and driven on to the +watered creek, where they got feed and water at some fine waterholes, +it received the name of "Cockburn Creek;" the Brothers as usual +preceded them and marked a line further ahead. Arrived there, they +spent the rest of the day in fishing whilst uneasily waiting the +arrival of the pack-horses. They luckily caught some fish for +supper, for night fell without the appearance of the remainder of the +party, and they had nothing to eat since the preceding night. The +country has already been described. + +<p><i>November</i> 7.—To-day was spent in camp by the party whilst +anxiously awaiting the arrival of the pack-horses, but night fell +without their making their appearance. They had nothing to eat, and +as there was no game to be got, they decided on killing a calf, but +in this they were disappointed, as the little animal eluded them, and +bolted into the scrub. They therefore had to go "opossuming," and +succeeding in catching three, which, with a few small fish, formed +their supper. + +<p><i>November</i> 8.—At daylight this morning, Alexander Jardine +succeeded in "potting" the calf that had eluded them yesterday, which +gave the party a satisfactory meal. Another anxious day was passed +without the arrival of the pack-horses, and the Leader had the +annoyance of finding on counting the cattle, that between twenty or +thirty were missing. Being now seriously anxious about the +pack-horses, he determined if they did not arrive that night, to +despatch his brother to look after them. + +<p><i>November</i> 9.—The horses not having arrived, Alexander Jardine +started to see what had happened: he met the party with them half +way, and learned some heavy news. In the afternoon of the 5th (the +day on which the Brothers started with the cattle), the grass around +the camp had, by some culpable carelessness, been allowed to catch +fire, by which half their food and nearly all their equipment were +burnt. The negligence was the more inexcusable, as before starting, +Alexander Jardine had pulled up the long grass around the tents at +the camp, which should have put them on their guard against such a +contingency, one for which even less experienced bushmen are supposed +to be watchful during the dry season. The consequences were most +disastrous: resulting in the destruction of 6 bags of flour, or 70 +lbs. each, or 420 lbs., all the tea save 10 lbs., the mule's pack, +carrying about 100 lbs. of rice and jam, apples, and currants, 5 lbs. +gun-powder, 12 lbs. of shot, the amunition box, containing cartridges +and caps, two tents, one packsaddle, twenty-two pack-bags, 14 +surcingles, 12 leather girths, 6 breechings, about 30 ring +pack-straps, 2 bridles, 2 pairs blankets, 2 pairs of boots, nearly +all the black boys' clothes, many of the brothers', and 2 bags +containing nicknacks, awls, needles, twine, etc., for repairs. It +was providential the whole was not burnt, and but for the exertions +of Mr. Scrutton, all the powder would have gone. He is described as +having snatched some of the canisters from the fire with the solder +melting on the outside. They had succeeded in rescuing the little +that was saved by carrying it to a large ant-hill to, windward. +Their exertions were no doubt great and praise-worthy, but a little +common prudence would have saved their necessity, and a heavy and +irreparable loss to the whole party, one which might have jeopardized +the safety of the expedition. Besides this, they had a less +important but still serious loss; "Maroon," a valuable grey sire +horse, that Mr. Jardine hoped to take to the new settlement, died +from the effects of poison, or of a snake bite, but more probably the +former. The pack-horses joined the cattle in the evening. Stock was +taken of the articles destroyed, and the best disposition made of +what remained. The latitude of this camp (XVIII.) was 16 degrees 55 +minutes 6 seconds. + +<p><i>November</i> 10.—Leaving instructions with the cattle party to +follow down Cockburn Creek, and halt at the spots marked for them, +the Brothers, accompanied by Eulah, started ahead, to mark the camps +and examine the country. By this means no time was lost. The first +three camps were marked at about seven-mile intervals; and at about +25 miles, opposite two small lagoons on the west bank, the Leader +marked trees STOP (in heart), on either side the creek, leaving +directions for the party to halt till he returned, and a mile further +down camped for the night. The banks of the creek were scrubby and +poorly grassed, the country sandy, and thickly timbered with +tea-tree, stringy-bark, and bloodwood, and a few patches of +silver-leaved iron-bark, the nondas being very plentiful along its +course. Large flocks of cockatoo parrots (<i>Nymphicus Nov. Holl.</i>) +and galaas were seen during the day. + +<p><i>November</i> 11.—Still continuing down the creek the party made a +short stage of 13 miles, one of their horses having become too sick +to travel. The early halt gave them an opportunity to go hunting, +the more necessary as they were again out of meat. The result was an +iguana, a bandicoot, three opossums, and some "sugar bags" or wild +honey nests. + +<p><i>November</i> 12.—Crossing Cockburn Creek the Brothers bore away +N.N.W. for 9 or 10 miles, over sandy bloodwood ridges, intersected +with broad tea-tree gullies, to two sandy water courses half-a-mile +apart, the first 100 and the second 50 yards in width, running west. +These they supposed to be heads of the Mitchell. Crossing them and +continuing N. by W., they traversed over barren tea-tree levels +(showing flood marks from three to four feet high), without a blade +of grass, for about 16 miles, when they reached the extreme head of a +small rocky creek, where they camped at a waterhole, and caught a +great number of maramies, which suggested the name of "Maramie +Creek." It was quite evident that the cattle could not follow by +this route, as there was nothing for them to eat for nearly the whole +distance. The stage travelled was 26 1/2 miles. + +<p><i>November</i> 13.—Maramie Creek was followed down for 25 miles: its +general course is west. At three miles from the start a small creek +runs in from the north-east. The Brothers had hoped that the +character of the country would improve as they went down, but were +disappointed. Nothing but the same waste of tea-tree and spinifex +could be seen on either side, the bank of the main creek alone +producing bloodwood, stringy-bark, acacia, and nonda. Though shallow +it was well watered, and increased rapidly in size as they proceeded. +The natives had poisoned all the fish in the different waterholes +with the bark of a small green acacia that grew along the banks, but +the party succeeded in getting a few muscles and maramies. + +<p><i>November</i> 14.—Being satisfied that the cattle could not be +brought on by the course they had traversed, Frank Jardine determined +to leave Maramie Creek, and make for the large stream crossed on the +12th, so as to strike it below the junction of Cockburn Creek. +Turning due south the party passed a swamp at eight miles, and at +seventeen miles a lagoon, on which were blue lilies (<i>Nymphoea +gigantea.</i>) A mile farther on they reached what they supposed to be +the Mitchell, which was afterwards ascertained to be the Staaten, of +the Dutch navigators, or one of its heads. At the point where they +struck it (about 18 miles below the junction of Cockburn Creek, it is +nearly a quarter-of-a-mile in width, sandy, with long waterholes. A +dense black tea-tree scrub occupies its south bank. It was here that +the party experienced the first decided show of hostility from the +natives. They had seen and passed a number at the lily lagoon +unmolested, but when arrived at the river whilst the leader was +dismounted in its bed, fixing the girths of his saddle, he was +surprised to find himself within 30 yards of a party carrying large +bundles of reed spears, who had come upon him unperceived. They +talked and gesticulated a great deal but made no overt hostility, +contenting themselves with following the party for about three miles +throughscrub, as they proceeded along the river. Getting tired of +this noisy pursuit, which might at any moment end in a shower of +spears, the Brothers turned on reaching a patch of open ground, +determined that some of their pursuers should not pass it. This +movement caused them to pause and seeming to think better of their +original intention they ceased to annoy or follow the little party, +which pursued its way for five miles further, when they camped in the +bed of the stream. Its character for the 8 miles they had followed +it up was scrubby and sandy: its course nearly west—long gullies +joined it from each side walled with sandstone. They caught two +turtles for supper. Total distance travelled 26 miles. + +<p><i>November 15.</i>—Making an early start, the party followed up the +Staaten for eight miles, the general course being about N.E. Here it +was jointed by Cockburn creek, which they ran up until they reached +the cattle party encamped at the lagoons, where the Leader had marked +trees STOP. They had reached this place on the 13th inst., without +further accident or disaster, and seeing the trees, camped as +instructed. It was nearly 30 miles from the junction of the Staaten, +the country scrubby, thickly timbered, and very broken. Total +distance 38 miles. + +<p><i>November</i> 16.—The whole party was moved down Cockburn Creek, that +being the only practicable route. It was the alternative of poor +grass or no grass. The trend of the creek was about N.W. by W. At +twelve miles they encamped on its bed. A red steer and a cow were +left behind poisoned; and another horse, "Marion" was suffering +severely from the same cause. They were unable to detect the plant +which was doing so much mischief, which must be somewhat plentiful in +this part of the country. Leichhardt mentions (page 293) the loss of +Murphy's pony on the Lynd, which was found on the sands, "with its +body blown up, and bleeding from the nostrils." Similar symptoms +showed themselves in the case of the horses of this expedition, +proving pretty clearly that the deaths were caused by some noxious +plant. (Camp XXIII.) + +<p><i>November</i> 17.—The course was continued down Cockburn Creek. At +six miles a large stream runs in from the S.E. which was supposed to +be Byerley Creek. This however is only an assumption, and not very +probable, as it will be remembered that when the brothers struck it +on the 1st November, 40 miles below camp 15, they were surprised to +find it trending toward the south. It is not improbable that it may +run into the sea between the Staaten and Gilbert. This problem can +only be solved when the country gets more occupied, or some explorer +traces the Staaten in its whole length. Below this junction Cockburn +Creek is from 200 to 300 yards wide, running in many channels, but +under the surface. The country is flat and poorly grassed, a low +sandy ridge occasionally running into the creek. The timber is +bloodwood, string-bark, tea-tree, nonda, and acacia. The party +camped 5 miles further down; poor "Marion" being now past all hope of +recovery had to be abandoned. Three cows that calved at camp 22 were +sent for and brought up. They were kept safely all night, but during +the morning watch, were allowed to escape by Barney. At this camp +(XXIV.) Scrutton was bitten in two or three places by a scorpion, +without however any very severe effects. + +<p><i>November</i> 18.—Cockburn Creek, now an important stream was +followed down for four miles, when it formed a junction with the +Staaten. The width of the main stream is about 400 yards, in many +channels sandy and dry. It now runs generally west and very winding. +The country and timber were much as before described, with the +exception that a mile back from the river, (a chain of lagoons) +generally occurs, some of them being large and deep and covered with +lilies. Beyond, a waste of sandy tea-tree levels, thickly covered +with triodia or spinifex, and other desert grasses. The green tree +ant was very numerous, particularly in the nonda trees, where they +form their nests. The birds were also very numerous, large flocks of +black cockatoos, cockatoo parrots, galaas, budgerygars or grass +parrots (<i>Melopsittacus Undulatus, Gould</i>), and some grey quail were +frequently seen, and on one of the lagoons a solitary snipe was +found. Another cow was abandoned to-day. The total day's stage was +8 miles. The party camped in the sandy bed of the river. A little +rain was experienced at night. (Camp XXV.) Latitude 16 degrees 32 +minutes 14 seconds. + +<p><i>November</i> 19.—The party followed down parallel with the Staaten, +so as to avoid the scrub and broken sandstone gullies on the banks. +They travelled for 11 miles, and camped on one of the lagoons above +mentioned. Their course was somewhat to the south of west, so that +they were no nearer to their destination—an annoying reflection. +In the afternoon some of the party went over to the river to fish. +At this spot it had narrowed to a width of 100 yards, was clear of +fallen trees and snags, the water occupying the whole width, but only +5 feet deep. Up to this time, Frank Jardine had supposed the stream +they were on to be the Mitchell, but finding its course so little +agreeing with Leichhardt's description of it, below the junction of +the Lynd, which is there said to run N.W., he was inclined to the +conclusion that they had not yet reached that river. Mr. Richardson, +on the contrary, remained firm in his opinion that Byerley Creek was +the river Lynd, and consequently, that this stream was the Mitchell, +nor was it till they reached the head of the tide that he was fully +convinced of his error. (See his journal November 18, and December +2.) + +<p><i>November</i> 20.—To-day the Leader went forward and chose a good +camp, 12 miles on, at some fine lagoons. The cattle followed, +keeping, as usual, back from the river, the interval to which was all +scrubby flooded ground, thickly covered with brush and underwood. +They were however unable to reach the camp that night, for when +within three miles of it a heavy deluge of rain compelled them to +halt, and pitch the tents to protect the rations, all the oilskin +coverings that had been provided for the packs having been destroyed +in the bonfire, on Guy-Faux Day, at camp No. 16. They could hardly +have been caught in a worse place, being on the side of a scrubby +ridge, close to one of the ana-branches of the river. It would seem +that the natives calculated on taking them at a disadvantage, for +they chose this spot for an attack, being the first instance in which +they attempted open hostility. Whilst the Brothers were busily +engaged in cutting out a "sugar bag," a little before sundown, they +heard an alarm in the camp, and a cry of "here come the niggers." +Leaving their <i>sweet</i> occupation, they re-joined the party, in front +of which about 20 blacks were corroboreeing, probably to screw up +their courage. They had craft enough to keep the sun, which was now +low, at their backs, and taking advantage of this position sent in a +shower of spears, without any of the party—not even the black-boys +—being aware of it, until they saw them sticking in the ground +about them. No one was hit, but several had very narrow shaves. The +compliment was returned, and as Alexander Jardine describes "<i>exeunt</i> +warriors," who did not again molest them, although they were heard +all around the camp throughout the night. (Camp XXVII.) Course W. +Distance 9 miles. A heavy thunderstorm in the evening. + +<p><i>November</i> 21.—The cattle were started as usual, but as ill-luck +would have it, 13 of the horses were not to be found. After waiting +for them till four o'clock, all the packs and riding-saddles were +packed on the remaining horses, and the party drove them on foot +before them to the camp, at the lagoons, three miles on. It was dark +before they got there, and well into the second watch before the +tents were pitched, and everything put straight. The country +continued the same as before described, a barren waste of tea-tree +levels to the north, obliging them to keep along the river, although +at right angles to their proper course. (Camp XXVIII.) Distance 3 +miles W. + +<p><i>November 22.</i>—The troubles and adventures of the party seemed to +thicken at this point, where the cattle were detained, whilst the +missing horses were being sought for. Old Eulah had come in late the +preceding night empty-handed, he had seen their tracks, but night +coming on he was unable to follow them. He was started away this +morning in company with Peter to pick up and run the trail. At two +o'clock he returned with two, and reported that Peter was on the +trail of the others. They had evidently been disturbed by their +friends the natives, for their tracks were split up, and those +brought on had their hobbles broken. At dusk Peter brought home +three more, without being able to say where the others had got to. +During this time, Frank Jardine had a little adventure to himself; +wishing to find a better run for the cattle, he started about noon, +and rode down the river for about six miles. There was no choice, +the country was all of the same description, so he turned back in +disgust, when, in crossing the head of a sandstone gully, he heard a +yell, and looked round just in time to see a half a dozen spears come +at him, and about a dozen natives around and painted, jumping about +in great excitement. Going forward a little, he got time to clear +the lock of his rifle, from the oil rag which usually protected it. +He turned on his assailants, and sent a bullet amongst them; it hit a +tree instead of a blackfellow, but as they still menaced him, his +next shot was more successful, when seeing one of their number fall, +the rest decamped. It was now their turn to run, but before they +could cross the bed of the river, which was dry, clear, and about 300 +yards wide, he was able to get two good shots at short range. They +did not trouble him again that afternoon. They dropped all their +spears in the "stampede," some of which, reed and jagged, were taken +home as trophies. They used no "wommerahs." Peter came in to camp +at dark, with 3 horses, having no idea where the others had got to; +there were 8 still away. + +<p><i>November</i> 23.—Sambo, the best tracker among the black-boys, was +despatched at sunrise, with Peter, to look for the missing horses. +He returned at sundown with the mule, which he had found on the +opposite side of the river, but he had seen no traces of the rest. +Peter came in after dark, without any, he had seen the tracks of the +natives on the horse tracks, and related in his own jargon, that +"blackfella bin run'em horses all about" and "that bin brok'em +hobble." He had also seen two or three of the blacks themselves, at +the lagoon where the brothers met them on the 14th, and had some +parley with them—he described them a "cawbawn saucy" "that tell'im +come on, me trong fella, you little fella," and after chaffing him in +their own way, sent as many spears at him as he would stand for. The +detention caused by the loss of the horses, was a serious matter, +whilst the hostility of the natives was very annoying, keeping the +party constantly on the alert. The interval was occupied in patching +up the ration tent, with portions of the other two, so that they had +now one water-proof to protect their stores. Some good snipe and +duck shooting might have been got round these lagoons, but as nearly +all their caps had been destroyed by the fire, it was not to be +thought of. The scarcity of these and of horse-flesh alone prevented +the Brothers from turning out and giving their troublesome enemies a +good drilling, which, indeed, they richly deserved, for they had in +every case been the agressors, and hung about the party, +treacherously waiting for an opportunity to take them by surprise. +The detention also was due to them, which was a matter of some +anxiety to the Leader, when it is considered that the party was in a +level flooded country, without a rise that they knew of within fifty +miles, and that the rains of the last ten days portended the breaking +up the dry season. + +<p><i>November</i> 24.—This morning Frank Jardine went out with Eulah, and +succeded in finding 5 more of the horses, scattered all over the +country, their hobbles broken, and as wild as hawks. He sent Eulah +along the tracks of the last two, who were evidently not far ahead, +and brought the others in himself. These two "Cerebus" and "Creamy," +were the best and fattest of the pack-horses. Their loss would have +made a serious addition to the loads of the remainder, who had +already to share 400lbs. Extra in consequence of the poisoning of the +three already lost. Whilst waiting for and expecting their arrival +every hour, the different members of the party amused themselves as +best they might by fishing, opossum, sugar-bag hunting, and nonda +gathering. The monotony of the camp was also broken by a little +grumbling, consequent on an order from the Leader against the opening +of the next week's ration bag. The party had, during the halt +consumed a week's rations a day and a-half too soon, hence the order, +which was a wise precaution. The rations were calculated with care +to last through the journey, but, unless a restriction had been +placed on the consumption, this could not be hoped for. But it is +difficult to reason with hungry men. + +<p><i>November</i> 25.—Another day passed without finding the two missing +horses. Sambo and Eulah were sent out in quest of them, but returned +unsuccessful, giving it, as their opinion that "blackfella bin 'perim +'longa 'crub." Peter and Barney were then despatched with orders to +camp out that night and look for them all next day. A steer having +been killed last night, the day was passed in jerking him. The day +was very unpropitious as there had been a shower of rain in the +morning, and there was no sun, so it had to be smoked with manure in +one of the tents. What with the mosquitoes and sand-flies, men, +horses, and cattle were kept in a continual fever. The horses would +not leave the smoke of the fires, the cattle would not remain on the +camp, and the men could get no rest at night for the mosquitoes, +whilst during the day the flies were in myriads, and a small species +of gad-fly, particularly savage and troublesome. Another source of +annoyance was from the flocks of crows and kites, the latter (<i>Milvus +Affinis</i>) are described by Leichhardt as being extraordinarily +audacious, during his journey through this part of the country, and +they certainly manifested their reputation now. Not content with the +offal about the camp, they would actually, unless sharply watched, +take the meat that was cooking on the fire. The black-boys killed a +great many with "paddimelon" sticks, and reed spears, (the spoils of +war) but with little effect. "When one was killed, twenty came to +the funeral." Old Eulah was a great proficient in this exercise, and +when in action with his countrymen, was always anxious to throw their +own spears back at them. + +<p><i>November</i> 26.—One of the party went to sleep during his watch last +night, by which fifteen head of cattle were allowed to stray away +from the camp. It was not the first time that this very grave fault +had occurred, the mischief caused by which, can sometimes, hardly be +estimated. In this case, however, it verified the proverb, it is an +ill wind, etc., for whilst looking for the stragglers Frank Jardine +luckily "happened" on the missing horses "Cerebus" and "Creamy" about +7 miles down the river. They had evidently been frightened by the +blacks. Seven of the cattle only were found, leaving eight missing +which was very provoking as it was necessary to shift the camp (on +which they had now been detained six days) for all the stock where +looking miserable. Neither horses nor cattle would eat the grass, +which had ceased to have a trace of green in it, but rambled about +looking for burnt stubble. The day was close and sultry with loud +thunder and bright lightning, which very much frighened the horses. +The natives were heard cooeying all round the camp during the night, +but made no attack, remembering probably the result of the Sunday and +Tuesday previous. + +<p><i>November</i> 27—Everything was ready to pack on the horses before +daylight this morning, but most provokingly "Cerebus" was again +missing. Leaving orders for the partyto start if he was not +recovered before noon, the Leader pushed on to mark a camp for them. +At about three miles he came on to a chain of fine lagoons, running +parallel to and about four miles from the river. The intervening +country was one tea-tree level all flooded, but a narrow strip of +soft sandy flat occurred on the banks of each, timbered with +blood-wood, stringy-bark, and box. Following these down he marked a +camp at about nine miles, then crossed over to the river to look for +the cattle. He had not followed it far when he saw a mob of blacks. +They did not molest him, so he passed them quietly, as he thought, +but about two miles further on, in some scrubby sandstone gullies, as +he was riding along looking for tracks, a spear whistled past, within +six inches of his face. Pulling up, he saw seven natives, all +standing quietly looking on at the effect of the missile: the fellow +who threw it never threw another. Pursuing his way, pondering on the +fatality that had brought about collisions on two Sundays running, he +met the cattle, and found the party in some excitement; they too had +had a shindy. The natives had attacked them in force, but no one was +hurt, whilst some of their assailants were left on the ground, and +others carried away wounded. It was found that they would not stand +after the first charge—and a few were hit. (Camp XXIX.) Distance +9 miles. Course W. by N. + +<p><i>November</i> 28.—All hopes of finding the eight missing head of +cattle, lost from camp 28, had to be abandoned, for the reason that +the horse-flesh could not hold out in looking for them. The cattle +were moved down along the lagoons, which in about two miles narrowed +into a defined creek, sandy, with occasional lagoons. This was +explored ten miles by the Leader, and the question as to whether he +should choose that route, or follow the river was decided for him. +The banks were either utterly barren or clothed with spinifex, and +the country on either side the same worthless tea-tree levels. He +was therefore determined to take the cattle back on to the river, +which was not much better, and led them away from their course. The +prospects of the Brothers were rather dispiriting. To attempt +striking north was out of the question, whilst every mile down the +river took them further away from their destination, and their horses +were falling away daily, so much so, that if the feed did not soon +improve, there would not be one capable of carrying an empty saddle. +The rainy season too was at hand, and the level and flooded nature of +the country they were in, would, were they caught there by the +floods, endanger the safety of the party. It was therefore with no +little anxiety that they watched the weather, and searched for a +practicable line which would allow of their steering north. (Camp +XXX.) Latitude 16 degrees 26 minutes 53 seconds. Distance 10 miles, +W. by N. + +<p><i>November</i> 29.—Keeping a south-west course, so as to strike it +lower down, the cattle were again taken on to the river, which they +reached in about nine miles; then travelling about another mile down +its banks, encamped. These were now decidedly more open, and the +country generally improved. The same strip of soft sandy flat about +half-a-mile wide continued, but better grassed, although the spear +grass was far too common. Bloodwood, stringy-bark, applegum and +acacia timbered the north bank; whilst on the south, tea-tree flats, +covered with spinifex, ran close down to the bed, the bank itself +being of red clay. Two channels, together making a width of about +300 yards, formed the bed, which was sandy, and held very little +water on the surface. No large trees occurred, save now and then a +vagrant nonda. Another cow was lost to-day, and "Lottie," a favorite +terrier, was missing. The latitude of Camp 31 was supposed to be 16 +degrees 31 minutes 53 seconds, but doubtful. + +<p><i>November</i> 30.—The river was followed down to-day for 11 miles. It +was very winding and irregular in its width. At the camp it was only +60 yards wide and running in one channel, whilst a mile above, it +measured nearly 400. Its general course was nearly west. The creek +which is formed by the lagoons, on which the party were so long +detained was crossed at about nine-and-a-half miles. The country at +its junction is flooded for a long distance back, and the river bed +sandy and thickly timbered. Although the country generally had +decidedly improved, inasmuch as that it was more open, devoid of +scrub, and the box flats on the river extending further back on each +side, it was by no means good. The flats were very scantily grassed, +chiefly with sour water grasses and spinifex, and shewed by the flood +marks that they must be quite impassable during floods or wet +weather. The dreary tea-tree levels might be seen in glimpses +through the white box of the flats extending far beyond. Several +small swamps were passed during the day, on which ducks and other +water-fowl were very numerous, the stately native companion stalking +near the margins. The large funnel ant-hills occurred from 2 to 15 +feet high. The Fitzroy wallaby was plentiful, and the Leader shot an +emeu. Some large flights of white ibis, and slate-colored pigeons +passed high overhead, flying north, which might be a good indication. +Peter was sent back to seek for Lottie, but returned in the evening +unsuccessful. + +<p><i>December</i> 1.—Maramie Creek was crossed this morning at its +junction with the river, into which it flows in two channels, about +60 or 70 miles from the point where the brothers first struck it on +the 12th of November, while searching for a road to the northward. +Its total width is about 120 yards. The general course of the river +was slightly to the north of west, but very winding, some of its +reaches extended for nearly four miles. Numerous ana-branches +occurred, the flats separating them, being three miles in breadth, +timbered with flooded box and tea-tree, their banks well grassed. It +would be a dangerous country to be caught in by the floods. Two +parties of blacks were passed fishing on the river, but they took no +notice of the party, and were of course not interfered with. They +used reed spears pointed with four jagged prongs, and also hooks and +lines. Their hooks are made with wood barbed with bone, and the +lines of twisted currejong bark. Distance travelled to-day 10 miles. +The Camp XXXIII. in latitude 16 degrees 27 minutes 30 seconds. + +<p><i>December</i> 2.—The river was travelled down through similar country +for eleven miles, when the party reached the head of the tide, and +camped on a rocky water hole in an ana-branch, the river water not +being drinkable. The course was to the southward of west. It was +now beyond a doubt, even to Mr. Richardson, that this river was not +the Mitchell, for neither its latitude, direction, or description +corresponded with Leichhardt's account. It was also perceived that +the longitude of the starting point must have been incorrect, and +very considerably to the westward, as their reckoning, carefully +checked, brought them much too near the coast. The Brothers +therefore became satisfied of what they had long believed, that they +had never been on the Lynd at all, or even on its watershed, and that +what they were on was an independent stream. They therefore named it +the "Ferguson," in honor of Sir George Ferguson Bowen, Governor of +Queensland, but there is little doubt that it is the Staaten of the +Dutch navigators, or at least its southern branch. Should a northern +branch eventually be discovered, which the delta and numerous +ana-branches make a probable hypothesis, the stream explored by the +brothers might with propriety retain the name they gave it. At eight +miles from the start the character of the country changed from the +prevailing flats, to a kind of barren sandstone and spenifex ridges. +On pitching the camp the fishing-lines were put into requisition, but +without success. It is remarkable, that on reaching the salt water, +not far from this spot, Leichhardt was similarly disappointed, after +having counted on catching and curing a good quantity of fish, the +whole day's work of Brown and Murphy being "a small siluus, one +mullet, and some guard-fish," <i>qu.</i> gar-fish. + +<p><i>December</i> 3.—To-day's stage was a short one, and was hoped to have +been the last on this miserable river, which was now looked upon as +undoubtedly the Staaten. It had in some measure improved. The +timber was much larger and finer, and the lagoons extensive and deep. +But a heavy storm which came down, and compelled them to camp early, +soon proved what the country would be in the wet season. With this +one heavy fall of rain it became so boggy that the horses sank in up +to their girths. Hitherto the grass had been so scanty that the +party could not halt for a day to kill. They had consequently been +four days without meat. It was determined, therefore, to stop and +kill a beast, preparatory to a start north, the feed having slightly +improved in common with the timber. In addition to the steer that +was slaughtered, a shovel-nosed shark was caught and jerked in like +manner with the beef. In the afternoon Alexander Jardine explored +down the river for seven miles, seeking for a good spot for turning +off. The country still improved: the river was completely salt, and +in one continuous sheet of running water, in two channels 300 or 400 +yards in width, and together about half-a-mile at the spot where he +turned back. Here it was flat and shallow, and fordable at low +water. Mangroves and salt-water creeks commenced as described by +Leichhardt,* and alligator tracks were seen. (Camp XXXV.) Latitude +16 degrees 26 minutes 39 seconds. + +<blockquote>[footnote] *See Journal, page 320. It was at this point that he +threw away his horse-shoes and other heavy articles.</blockquote> + +<p><i>December</i> 4.—The beef, shark, and a few cat-fish were jerked, and +all the stores and loading spread out and re-distributed on the +packs, and as this put the camp into some confusion, the Leader +thought it well to shift it for a few miles, to let the packs shake +into place before the final start. They therefore moved down three +miles to the commencement of the mangroves, into a patch of the best +feed they had seen since they left the Einasleih. At this point the +banks were very soft and sandy, growing spinifex; the stream in +numerous channels, altogether half-a-mile across, and the tide rose +and fell about twenty-two inches. Here they camped, intending to +make an early start on the following morning. Time was now an object +of the utmost importance to the progress, if not to the safety of the +party: Frank Jardine was aware that the Mitchell, which he had hoped +long ere this to have left behind him, was still ahead, at least 40 +miles away, without certainty of water until it was reached, whilst +if caught by the floods he would probably be stopped by this +important stream. It was with some anxiety therefore that he +hastened preparations for the start. How his hopes were deferred and +how fortune seemed to laugh at his endeavours to push forward on his +course will now be narrated, and it will be seen how good bushmen +with high hearts can overcome obstacles, and meet difficulties that +would appal and baffle ordinary travellers. + +<h3>CHAPTER III.</h3> + +<blockquote>Leave the Staaten—Half the horses away—Fresh troubles—Mule +Lost—Sambo knocked up—Search for mule—Perplexity— +"Lucifer" goes mad—Final attempt to recover him—Marine Plains +—Search for Deceiver—Found dead—Salt Lagoon—Arbor Creek— +Country improves—Good Camp—Eulah Creek—The Brothers attacked +—Reach the Mitchell—Cow poisoned—Battle of the Mitchell—An +ambush—Extent of flooded Country—Reach head of tide—Heavy +rain—A "Blank run"—Leave the Mitchell—Good Coast Country— +Balourgah Creek—Blue grass—Banksia—The Eugenia—Green Ant +—Hearsey Creek—Holroyd—Creek Dunsmuir Creek—Thalia Creek +—Black boy chased by natives—Another encounter—Cattle +scattered by thunder-storm—Rainy Season—Macleod Creek— +Kendall Creek.</blockquote> + +<p><i>December</i> 5.—Turning their backs on the Ferguson or Staaten the +party steered north, and at starting crossed the head of the +sand-flats, described by Leichhardt. The rest of the day's stage was +over sandy ridges covered with tea-tree and pandanus, tolerably +grassed, no creek or water-course of any description occurred along +the line, and the party had to camp without water at about 13 miles: +but as the Leader had not expected to find any at all for at least +40, this was not thought much of. The camp though waterless was well +grassed, and by dint of searching a small pool of slimy green water +was found before dark, about two-and-a-half miles to the N.N.W. in a +small watercourse, and by starting off the black boys, enough was +procured in the "billies" for the use of the party for supper. This +is marked a red day in Frank Jardine's diary, who closes his notes +with this entry. "Distance 13 miles. Course North at last." (Camp +XXXVII.) + +<p><i>December</i> 6.—The satisfaction of the party in getting away from +the Staaten and travelling on the right course was destined to +receive a check, and the Brothers to find they had not yet quite done +with that river. This morning about half the horses were away, and a +worse place for finding them, saving scrub, could hardly be imagined. +It was fortunate that the pool of water mentioned yesterday had been +found, as the cattle would have had to turn back to the river, but +this they were saved from. They were started away for the water at +day-break, in charge of two of the black boys, with instructions to +stay and feed them there until the horses came up or they were +relieved by Binney. No horses coming in, Binney was sent after them. +The Brothers searching for the horses, followed an hour-and-a-half +after, but on arriving at the pool found the cattle and boys but no +Binney. Returning to the camp they instructed the party to shift the +packs to the pool on the twelve horses that had been found. Binney +here came into the camp along the yesterday's tracks. He had missed +the cattle and did not know where he had been to. He was started +again on the cattle track by the Brothers, who then went in search of +more water, sending two more black boys to look for the horses. At +about four miles away they themselves came on to their tracks, which +they ran for about eight miles towards the coast, when they found +six. Continuing to follow the trail they were led to their 35th camp +on the Staaten, when they found three more. Here, as the sun went +down they were obliged to camp, and after short hobbling the horses +laid down by their fire, supperless, and without blankets. They saw +no water through the whole of the day, which was the cause of the +restlessness of the horses the previous night, and of their straying, +in spite of short hobbles. The myriads of mosquitoes too, which now +annoyed them may possibly have contributed to that end. + +<p><i>December</i> 7.—Leaving the nine horses hobbled to feed near the +water the Brothers separated, one taking up and the other down the +river to look for the others, in hopes that they might also have +turned back, but met again in the afternoon, each without success. +Starting back (with the nine recovered yesterday) at about two +o'clock, they returned to the camp, where fresh troubles awaited +them. Only two of the others had been found, and the party with the +pack-horses had succeeded in losing the mule, together with his pack. +Whilst preparing to start they had allowed him to poke away +unperceived in the scrubby timber, and did not miss him till ready to +start. Sambo had been at once despatched on his tracks but had not +yet returned. Binney had lost himself a second time and only +rejoined the camp at dark last night, after having ridden the whole +day, probably in a circle, without finding either horses or water. +The two black boys had been equally unsuccessful. Eulah and Barney +were now despatched with orders to camp out until they found the +missing horses, five of which, besides the mule, still were away. In +the evening Sambo returned quite exhausted for want of water, not +having seen or tasted any, or any food during the too days of his +absence. For an hour after coming into camp he was quite dilirious. +When sufficiently recovered and collected to speak he stated that he +had followed the tracks of the mule (who had evidently been +galloping) through the tea-tree levels, at the back of camp 35, when +he was obliged to turn back for want of water. This accident, the +result of gross carelessness, together with frequent cases of less +importance, induced in the Leader a want of confidence which caused +him great anxiety when away from the party, to which indeed he never +returned without a feeling of disquietude, which was not allayed +until he learned that all was well—a harassing feeling, which few +but those who have experienced the responsibility of the conduct and +success of a similar expedition can fully appreciate. The water at +this camp was very bad, but still under the circumstances, a great +God-send. There were two holes equi-distant half-a-mile from the one +they were on, up and down the creek. The upper one was the deepest, +having many ducks, terns, and cranes on it. All three were +surrounded with a fringe of green rushes. By digging wells and +allowing the water to drain in, it was drinkable, although very +brackish. (Camp XXXVIII.) Latitude 16 degrees 13 minutes 45 +seconds. + +<p><i>December</i> 8.—At 4 o'clock this morning Alexander Jardine started +with Sambo after the mule. The Leader remained with the party +employing the day in exploring ahead for about 18 miles, in the hope +of finding water for a stage. This was a paramount necessity, for +the weather was so hot and the country so dry that twenty-four hours +without drinking drove the cattle nearly mad, their drivers suffering +almost equally. Finding no water during this search Mr. Jardine was +again in perplexity. Supposing the Mitchell to be 40 or 45 miles +ahead, the cattle could not reach it without water. On the other +hand if the coast were followed, it was probable that on reaching the +Mitchell they would have to trace it up 40 or 50 miles before it +could be crossed. The latter however seemed to be the best course, +if not the only one. The intention of Alexander Jardine was to have +got on to the mule's tracks, and run them over again until he +"pulled" him, but the ground being baked hard, stony, and grassless +Sambo was unable again to pick them up. However, whilst looking for +the mule's tracks they found three more of the horses, on a small +creek, fourteen miles from the camp, which ran into the river below +the last camp on it. He now determined to look for the other two, +and abandon the search after the mule for the present. One of them +"Lucifer" was found at camp 35. He was out of hobbles, and +immediately on being seen, started off at a gallop up the river. His +tracks were followed up to the next camp, six miles, where night +closing in Mr. Jardine was constrained to halt. The wretched animal +had apparently gone mad, probably with drinking salt water. + +<p><i>December</i> 9.—On resuming the search this morning Mr. A. Jardine +met Eulah and Barney. They also, had seen "Lucifer" on the coast, +but could do nothing with him. Detaching Sambo and Barney to +continue the search after the mule, and giving them all the +provision, he took Eulah with him to try once again to recover +"Lucifer." Picking up his trail at last night's camp, where they +left the three recovered horses, they ran it four miles up the river +and came upon him in a patch of scrub; they headed him after a hard +gallop and endeavoured to drive him down to the other horses, but all +to no purpose, they knocked up their horses and were obliged to +abandon the pursuit. He had evidently gone mad. Returning to the +camp they got fresh horses, and returned with the three to the party +of the main camp. + +<p><i>December</i> 10.—The two lost horses ("Lucifer" and "Deceiver") being +Mr. Jardine's best hacks and favourites, he determined to make one +more effort to recover them. Starting with Eulah this morning, he +travelled down the creek on which the cattle were camped for six +miles west, when he reached some large marine plains and downs, so +large, that though they ascended a high tree they could see nothing +between them and the horizon; they were grassed only with spinifex +"and other rubbish." They came on to Lucifer's tracks about 25 miles +from the camp, and found the place where he had been drinking the +salt water and lying down. From thence they followed his tracks for +15 miles through the tea-tree levels, and camped without water, after +having travelled, walking and riding, over between 40 or 50 miles of +the most miserable and desolate country imaginable, without finding +any fit to drink. Meanwhile Alexander Jardine took another cast to +find water and have a look at the coast. He also saw the Marine +Plains, and found them utterly waterless. This decided the question +of the coast-line route. + +<p><i>December</i> 11.—At daylight Mr. Jardine and Eulah again got on to +Lucifer's tracks, but the ground was so hard that they had to run +them on foot and lead their horses. At sun-down they hit camp 33 on +the river, having made only about 20 miles in a straight line. Here +they had a good drink. The water was rather brackish, but after two +days travelling over a parched and arid country, almost anything +would have been acceptable. They turned out and whilst trying to +catch something for their suppers, they saw Lucifer standing within +thirty yards of where their horses were feeding, but the moment he +caught sight of them he again galloped away. Mr. Jardine immediately +jumped on his horse and brought him back to Eulah's, but to no +purpose, for he galloped past without taking the least notice of him, +and as it was now dark they had to let him go. Alexander Jardine +spent the day in searching for water, and was fortunate enough to hit +on a permanent water hole, in a small creek, eight miles N.N.W. from +the camp. This discovery was like a ray of sunshine promising to +help them on their way. At night Sambo and Barney returned, but +without the mule. + +<p><i>December</i> 12.—Lucifer was again followed till mid-day. From the +time that he had left their camp last night he had galloped for 13 +miles without stopping, and when found he was quite white with sweat. +It was quite evident that he was perfectly mad from the effects of +the salt water, so that Mr. Jardine decided to abandon him without +wasting more horse-flesh. He turned therefore to look for the other +horse "Deceiver," expecting to find him in the same state. His +tracks being found shortly afterwards, they followed them for some +distance, when they came on to his dead carcase. The poor brute had +evidently died from want of water; the Leader therefore turned +homewards, hoping, but little expecting to find that the mule had +been found. These losses were a heavy blow, and sadly crippled the +party. Lucifer and Deceiver were the two best riding horses, and the +mule the best pack animal. His own loss was aggravated by his +carrying his pack with him. This carried most of the odd articles +that were hitherto deemed indispensible, but which henceforth they +had per force to dispense with. One pack contained all that remained +of the tea, currants, and raisins, which were saved from the fire, +and two pairs of boots, the only ones the Brothers had; and the other +was filled with oddments, such as files, gimlets, ragstone, steel, +weighing machine, awls, tomahawks, American axes, shoeing tools, and +a number of things "that they could not do without," but perhaps the +most important loss was that of the spade, to which they had many +times been indebted for water. Up to this time, that is to the 37th +camp, the number of the camp had always been cut in the wood of a +tree at each, with a mallet and chissel, these having gone with the +mule's pack the numbers were from this point cut with a tomahawk, but +as Mr. Jardine was expert and careful in its use it is probable that +his marks are but little less legible. The recovery of the mule +being now past all hope the Brothers determined to push on, thankful +that they were certain of water for one stage. It was the more +necessary, as two of the party, Scrutton and Cowderoy, were getting +ill from the effects of the bad water. At this camp Mr. Richardson +fixed the variation at 40 east. He had hitherto used a variation of +6 degrees in his plotting. + +<p><i>December</i> 13.—The Leader intended to have camped to-day on the +creek, found by his brother on the 11th, but whilst ahead looking for +a good camp for the morrow, he came at five miles further on, to what +he took to be the "Rocky Creek" of Leichhardt. He turned back +therefore and fetched the cattle on to it, making 13 instead of 8 +miles. But on turning out it was found that the water was not +drinkable, although the lagoon was covered with nympheas, generally +supposed to grow only in fresh water. These were white instead of +blue, which might be from the effect of the salt. However at a mile +up the creek, a fine reach of good water was found, two miles long +and sixty yards wide. The bed of the creek contained sandstone rock, +was well grassed, and where crossed, ran about east and north. A +fine barramundi was caught in it, and Alexander Jardine shot six +whistling ducks in the first creek. The country traversed to-day +alternated between extensive marine plains, covered with "pigs face," +(<i>Misembrianthemum Iriangularis</i>), and crusted with salt, and low +undulating tea-tree, and banksia ridges. Birds were very plentiful, +large flocks of native companions (<i>Gurus Antigen</i>,) stalked over the +marine plains, and when seen at the distance had the appearance of a +flock of sheep, gigantic cranes, pelicans, and ibis were numerous, +whilst in the lagoons of the creek, nearly every kind of water-fowl +common to Queensland, was found, except the coot and pigmy goose, +plover and snipe were abundant, also the elegant Burdekin duck, and a +small crane was noticed having a dark blue head and body, with white +throat and neck. (Camp XXXIX.) Lat. 16 degrees 3 minutes 38 +seconds. A tree was marked F. J. in heart on one side, and 39 in +square on the other. + +<p><i>December</i> 14.—To-day the party started north-east, the Leader +wishing, if possible, to hit the Mitchell at the head of the tide. +Water was carried in case these should not find any, but the +precaution was fortunately unnecessary. At five miles they crossed a +small creek from the eastward, having one small hole of water in it. +The country to that point was similar to that of yesterday, thence +outward for about 9 miles they traversed box flats, intersected with +low sandy rises, well grassed, and timbered with stringy-bark and +acacia. Another watered creek was crossed at about 9 miles from the +start, and the camp pitched at a round waterhole, in a well-watered +creek at 14 miles. Many gullies were crossed filled with the +screw-palm (<i>Pandanus Spirilas</i>.) The soil of the box flats was a +stiff yellow clay. Hot winds had been prevalent for the last week +from the south-east, which parched and baked everything and made the +mosquitoes very numerous and annoying. (Camp XL.) Latitude 15 +degrees 56 minutes 31 seconds. + +<p><i>December</i> 15.—The grass was so coarse and dry at this camp, that +the precaution was taken of watching the horses all last night, and +the party started this morning by moonlight. For 5 miles they +travelled over box and tea-tree flats, full of funnel ant-hills, +melon and rat-holes, when they reached a narrow deep sandy creek, the +course of which was defined by a line of dark green timber, +presenting a strong and pleasing contrast with any previously crossed +along the "Levels," where they could never be distinguished from a +distance, being fringed with the same kind of timber. It came from +the eastward, was tolerably watered, and presented some bad broken +sandstone country on its north bank. Its shady appearance suggested +the appropriate name of "Arbor Creek." For three miles the route lay +over gullies, spurs, and walls of broken sandstone. The country +beyond opened agreably into flats, which might almost be called +plains, but for the lightly-dotted timber. The grasses though dry, +were finer and better than any seen, since leaving the Einnasleih. +The timber generally was white box, applegum, bloodwood, and +grevillea, and at 11 miles (from camp) the bauhinia, and Bidwill's +acacia commenced, and continued to the 42nd Camp. The flats towards +the end of the stage sloped to the north-east. At 19 miles the party +having accomplished a long stage, Mr. Jardine camped without water, +sending old Eulah to try and find some. He soon returned with the +welcome news that there was a well-watered creek on a-head, so +saddling up again, they drove on and reached it in about three miles. +It was well worth the extra fatigue to the stock. They were rewarded +by an excellent camp, plenty of green grass, open country and water, +which, after a drive of 23 long and dusty miles, was alike acceptable +to men and beasts. The creek received the name of Eulah Creek, in +honor of the discoverer. (Camp XLI.) + +<p><i>December</i> 16.—Between two and three miles of travelling over +flooded box country, having large melon holes in it, brought the +party to a well-watered creek, with vine scrub banks running N. W. +At three more, another and similar one was reached, where the scrubs +on the banks were so thick that the Brothers who were a-head had to +camp, to cut a road through them. This creek appeared to be an +ana-branch. Whilst they were engaged in marking a line for a +crossing place for the cattle, they saw some blacks, and tried to +avoid them, these however ran in the direction of the cattle, and +brandishing their spears laughingly, defied the horsemen, beckoning +them to come on. With this they complied, and turned them back over +the creek, and then sat down awaiting the arrival of the cattle. +They were not allowed to remain long in peace, for the natives, +having left their gins on the other side, swam over the creek and +tried to surround them. Being thus forced into a "row," the Brothers +determined to let them have it, only regretting that some of the +party were not with them, so as to make the lesson a more severe one. +The assailants spread out in a circle to try and surround them, but +seeing eight or nine of their companions drop, made them think better +of it, and they were finally hunted back again across the river, +leaving their friends behind them. The firing was heard by the +cattle party, but before they could come up, the fray was over. In +this case, as in all others, the collision was forced on the +explorers, who, as a rule, always avoided making use of their +superior arms. Leaving the cattle in camp, the Brothers spend the +afternoon in exploring the country a-head for 7 miles. After +crossing the river, the course lay through flooded country (the marks +on the trees being in some cases five feet high, covered with box, +and vine scrub, and the water, grasses, and rushes being matted +together with mud and rubbish,) to a large stream with broad sandy +bed, divided into three channels, altogether about 600 yards wide, +but with little water in them. The banks and islands were covered +with vine scrub, and lined with plum (<i>Owenia</i>,) chestnut +(<i>Castanopermum</i>,) nonda, bauhinia, acacia, white cedar, the corypha +or (fan-leaved palm,) flooded gum, melaleuca (drooping tea-tree,) and +many creepers and shrubs. On the box flats travelled through, some +gunyahs, dams, and weirs were noticed, all constructed of matted +vines and palm leaves, which last grow almost everywhere. One of the +largest of the palms measured 13 1/2 feet at the butt, which is the +smallest end, as they here assume the shape of the bottle tree. This +stream was correctly surmised to be the long desired Mitchell, the +two last creeks being only its ana-branches. Although 10 miles +higher up in latitude 15 degrees 51 minutes 56 seconds it is +described by Leichhardt as being 1 1/2 miles wide. It here measured +as before described only about 600 yards. A number of fish were +caught at the camp. (Camp XLII.) Distance 6 miles. + +<p><i>December</i> 17.—After some little trouble the cattle were crossed +over this branch, a road having to be cut for them through the scrub. +At 5 miles they crossed another main branch about 450 yards wide, and +camped two miles on the other side of it, on a waterhole in a +Leichhardt-tree flat (<i>Nauclea Leichhardtii</i>.) The country was the +same as described yesterday. One of the fattest of the cows died +from the effects of some poisonous herb, not detected. Some turkey's +eggs were found, and a wallaby, with which the vine scrubs were +swarming, was shot. The Torres Straits pigeon (<i>Carpophaga +Luctuosa</i>,) was here met with for the first time on the trip, and +attracted the interest and admiration of the travellers. It is a +handsome bird, about the size of a wonga, the head and body pure +white, the primaries of the wings and edge of the tail feathers +black, and the vent feathers and under tail coverts tinged with a +delicate salmon color. Distance 7 or 8 miles. Course N.N.E. (Camp +XLIII.) + +<p><i>December</i> 18.—The river was followed down to-day for 9 miles +through a complete net-work of ana-branches, gullies, and vine scrubs +to another branch, which may be called the true stream. It was 30 +yards wide, deep, and running strongly. Here the party had to camp +for about 3 hours, whilst the Brothers searched for a good crossing. +The cattle and pack-horses were crossed in safety, but some of the +pack-bags got wetted in the passage. They were travelled another +mile over to a sandstone bar, crossing another deep sheet of water, +that had been previously found. This stream had been explored in +search of a ford for four miles further up but without success. It +continued of the same width and appeared to do so much further. This +day, Sunday, was marked by the severest conflict the travellers had +yet had with the natives, one which may well be degnified by the name +of the "battle of the Mitchell." On arriving at the running stream +before mentioned, whilst the cattle halted, the Brothers and Eulah, +taking axes with them, to clear the scrub, went down to find a safe +crossing. At about a-mile-and-a-half they came on to a number of +blacks fishing, these immediately crossed to the other side, but on +their return, swam across again in numbers, armed with large bundles +of spears and some nullahs and met them. The horsemen seeing they +were in for another row, now cantered forward towards the camp, +determined this time to give their assailants a severe lesson. This +was interpreted into a flight by the savages, who set up a yell, and +re-doubled their pursuit, sending in their spears thick and fast. +These now coming much too close to be pleasant (for some of them were +thrown a hundred yards), the three turned suddenly on their pursuers, +and galloping up to them, poured in a volley, the report of which +brought down their companions from the camp, when the skirmish became +general. The natives at first stood up courageously, but either by +accident or through fear, despair or stupidity, they got huddled in a +heap, in, and at the margin of the water, when ten carbines poured +volley after volley into them from all directions, killing and +wounding with every shot with very little return, nearly all of their +spears having been expended in the pursuit of the horsemen. About +thirty being killed, the Leader thought it prudent to hold his hand, +and let the rest escape. Many more must have been wounded and +probably drowned, for fifty nine rounds were counted as discharged. +On the return of the party to the cattle an incident occurred which +nearly cost one of them his life. One of the routed natives, +probably burning with revengeful and impotent hate, got into the +water under the river bank, and waited for the returning party, and +as they passed threw a spear at Scrutton, before any one was aware of +his proximity. The audacious savage had much better have left it +alone, for he paid for his temerity with his life. Although the +travellers came off providentially without hurt, there were many +narrow escapes, for which some of them might thank their good +fortune. At the commencement of the fight as Alexander Jardine was +levelling his carbine, a spear struck the ground between his feet, +causing him to drop his muzzle, and lodge the bullet in the ground a +few yards in front of him. His next shot told more successfully. +There were other equally close shaves, but providentially not a +scratch. This is one of the few instances in which the savages of +Queensland have been known to stand up in fight with white men, and +on this occasion they shewed no sign of surprise or fear at the +report and effect of fire-arms. But it is probable that they will +long remember the "Battle of the Mitchell." (Camp LXIV.) Course +N.N.W. Distance 7 miles. + +<p><i>December</i> 19.—The horses had to be watched last night, for the +grass was so dry and course that the stock would not look at it, but +kept rambling about. The river was followed down about 13 miles. +The whole country travelled to-day and yesterday shewed flood marks +from 5 to 15 feet high. The rushes, nardoo, thatch, and water-grass, +dried and parched by the hot winds, were matted together with mud and +rubbish. At the camp the stream was 150 yards wide, the running +water being 30 yards across. The banks were of clay and sandstone, +from 20 to 30 feet high, the water was discolored to a kind of +yellowish white. During the floods the stream must be eight or ten +miles wide, for, two miles back from it, a fish weir was seen in a +small gully. + +<p>Altogether it would have been a frightful place for the party to have +been detained at. (Camp XLV.) Latitude 15 degrees 26 minutes 5 +seconds. + +<p><i>December</i> 20.—The river was still followed down to-day, the party +keeping about four miles from it, to avoid its scrubs and +ana-branches. At between 7 or 8 miles, a stream about 100 yards +wide, coming from the eastward, caused them to halt until a road was +cut through the thick vine scrub that fringed its banks. Four miles +further on they camped at a small lagoon close to the bank of the +river, at which point it is about 100 yards wide, deep, and too salt +for drinking, being affected by the tide. The country travelled over +was box, and tea-tree, melon-hole flats, shewing very high flood +marks. The ground had become very boggy from a heavy rain that fell +during the day. The night was very stormy, rain and wind falling and +blowing pretty equally. Two more head of cattle were dropped. The +total distance was 11 miles. Course W.N.W. (Camp XLVI.) + +<p><i>December</i> 21.—The rain of last night continuing through the +morning, the party had to start in the down-pour. They crossed +another large shallow sandy creek at four miles, coming from the +eastward running south-east. The camp was formed on a lagoon about a +mile from the river bank. The country traversed was sandy, growing +only coarse wirey grasses and spinifex, sandstone rock cropping out +occasionally above the surface. The river was here a +quarter-of-a-mile wide, salt, and running strongly. Before the +pack-horses came up, a mob of blacks approached the camp, and getting +up in the trees, took a good survey of the white intruders, but on +one of the party going towards them they scampered off over the open +ground towards the river. The recollection of the affair at the +crossing place probably quickening their movements. Just at +sun-down, however, the sharp eyes of the black-boys detected some of +them actually trying to stalk the whites, using green boughs for +screens. So the Brothers taking with them Scrutton and the four +black-boys, started in chase. They were in camp costume, that is to +say, shirt and belt, and all in excellent condition and wind, and now +a hunt commenced, which perhaps stands alone in the annals of nature +warfare. On being detected the natives again decamped, but this time +closely pursued. The party could at any time overtake or outstep the +fugitives, but they contented themselves with pressing steadilly on +them, in open order, without firing a shot, occasionally making a +spurt, which had the effect of causing the blacks to drop nearly all +their spears. They fairly hunted them for two miles into the scrub, +when, as darkness was coming on, they left their dingy assailants to +recover their wind, and returned to camp laughing heartily at their +"blank run," and taking with them as many of the abondoned spears as +they could carry. (Camp XLVII.) Distance 9 1/2 miles. Course W.N.W. + +<p><i>December</i> 22.—The Mitchell was left finally to-day, Mr. Jardine +determining on beginning the "straight running" for Cape York. The +first 8 miles was to a broad rocky creek, over tea-tree and box +flats, and small plains, fairly grassed, the best coast country that +had been seen. The creek appeared to be permanent, although there +was no water where it was crossed. From thence to camp, 7 miles, was +over saline plains, intersected by belts of bloodwood, tea-tree, +mangrove, nuptle, grevillea, dogwood, applegum, silky oak, and +pandanus. A second creek was crossed at 11 miles, similar to the +first. The camp was pitched at a puddle, without a blade of grass, +although its appearance was beautifully green, caused by a small sort +of tea-tree growing in great abundance, about 10 inches high, with +seven or eight large leaves on it. A steer was killed in the +evening, giving the party a very acceptable meal of meat, the first +they had tasted for three days, the weather being too hot to kill, +and there being no game to shoot. Course N. by W. Distance 15 +miles. (Camp XLVIII.) Latitude 15 degrees 2 minutes 10 seconds. + +<p><i>December</i> 23.—All hands were up almost the whole of last night, +some engaged in watching the cattle and horses, and others in cutting +up and jerking the beast. The rain came down heavily, and a cold +bitter wind was blowing; all the tents, save the ration tent, being +like seives, the outside was rather preferable to their shelter; so +each passed the night as best they could. The cattle were started +away in the morning, leaving Scrutton and Binney to finish jerking +the meat, there being some sunshine, which was beginning to be a +rarity, for the wet season had now fairly set in. Twelve miles of +wretched country were traversed, white sandy undulating ground, +clothed with shrubs and underwood, in the place of grass, and the +camp pitched on a low stringy-bark ridge, without water, for in this +flat sandy country the ground absorbs the rain as soon as it falls. +The horses had to be watched again to-night, for there was not a +blade of grass to be got. A small quantity of water was found in a +creek about a mile-and-a-half ahead. Late in the evening the horses +and water-bags were taken to it, and sufficient water brought back +for the use of the camp. Two small unimportant creeks were crossed +to-day, sandy and dry, trending west. Distance 12 miles N.W. by N. +(Camp XLIX.) + +<p><i>December</i> 24.—The cattle were watched at a small lagoon beyond the +creek before mentioned, which was deep and rocky. The country +continued of the same miserable character as yesterday, till at 7 +miles, the party came to a belt of bloodwood and stringy-bark, where, +by good luck, there was a little coarse grass, but as the stock had +had none for two days, they were not particular. (Camp L.) Distance +7 miles. Course N.N.W. + +<p><i>December</i> 25.—The rain came down all last night, and continuing +throughout the day (for the first time continually), did not suggest +a merry Christmas. However the Leader wished his companions the +compliments of the season, and pushed on. The country decidedly +improved if the weather did not. The tail end of some scrubs were +passed in the first five miles, cheifly tea-tree and oak, and +half-a-mile further on, a fine creek of sandstone rock, permenantly +watered; at 7 miles another similar, but larger, was named Christmas +Creek. Here whilst Mr. Jardine was halting in wait for the cattle, +he marked a tree XMAS, 1864, in square. In it the swamp mahogany was +seen for the first time since leaving Bowen. Its native name is +Belourgah. The creek was therefore christened by that name. At 15 +miles the party reached and camped on a fine, well-watered, rocky +creek, where the blue grass was plentiful, the first that had been +seen for many weeks. The country travelled over was very soft, and +though driven loose, three of the horses could scarcely travel over +it. The packs also were getting into a very dirty state, consequent +on the amount of mud and water they had been dragged through. The +timber noticed to-day was very varied, comprising all the kinds that +have already been mentioned, with the addition of the banksia, which +was observed for the first time, and a kind of pomegranate, which was +quite new to the Brothers. The trees grow large with soft white +bark, and large round leaves. The fruit as large as an hen's egg, in +shape like the common pomegranate. Unripe it is of a transparent +white, but when mature, has a dark pink color and slightly acid +taste. It is probably the euginia mentioned by Leichhardt. They +were much annoyed by the green-tree ant, all the trees and shrubs +being covered with them, in riding along they got about their +persons, and down their backs, where they stuck like ticks. They are +of a transparent green, nearly half-an-inch long, soft, and sticky. +On coming to the green feed and good water at the camp, it was felt +that this Christmas Day, if not the most cheerful, might have been +much worse. (Camp LI.) Distance 13 miles N.N.W. + +<p><i>December</i> 26,—The party travelled to-day on a course N.N.W. for +about 14 miles over very similar country to that of yesterday, save +that they crossed no creek, and saw no water during the whole of the +stage. Some of the ground was very scrubby and boggy, and better, +though not well grassed, too much spear grass occuring. The camp was +pitched on a splendid sheet of water, in a rocky creek, 80 yards +wide, and very long, in which some of the party caught some fine +fish. Waterfowl of all kinds were also numerous. It received the +name of Hearsey Creek, after a particular friend, Mr. W. Hearsey +Salmon. The blacks were hanging about, but did not make their +appearance. (Camp LII.) + +<p><i>December</i> 27.—The course to-day lay over similar country, a little +to the west of north, for 16 miles to a small creek, which contained +in a puddle, just sufficient water for the use of the party and the +horses. The cattle had to go without. (Camp LIII.) + +<p><i>December</i> 18.—At five miles from starting this morning, the +thirsty cattle were able to get abundance of water in a long sandy +creek, running in several channels, and having a rocky sandstone bed. +It was named Holroyd Creek. Two miles further on another stream was +crossed of similar size and character, which received the name of +Dunsmuir Creek. Here the country suddenly changed into lightly +timbered box flats, poorly grassed, and flooded. Four miles more +brought them to a salt-water creek, which had to be run up +a-mile-and-a-half before drinkable water was found. The camp was +pitched on a lotus lagoon, the water of which was slightly brackish. +It received the name of Thalia Creek. About two hours after camping, +whilst the party were engaged in digging trenches round them, and +otherwise preparing for an impending thunder-storm, the black-boy +that was tailing the cattle, came running into the camp in great +excitement, with the news that the natives that had been seen in the +morning, had hunted him and were now running the horses, so half the +party immediately turned out in pursuit. To protect the carbines +from the coming storm, Alexander Jardine and Scrutton arrayed +themselves the one in a black and the other a white mackintosh, which +reached to their heels, whilst the Leader having a short coat on, a +revolver in each pocket, jumped on to the bare-back of one of the +horses. This time it was not a "blank run." The horses were +scuttling about in all directions, and the natives waited for the +whites, close to a mangrove scrub, till they got within sixty yards +of them, when they began throwing spears. They were answered with +Terry's breech-loaders, but whether fascinated by the strange attire +of the three whites, or frightended by the report of the fire-arms, +or charge of the horse, they stood for some time unable to fight or +run. At last they slowly retired in the scrub, having paid for their +gratuitious attack by the loss of some of their companions. Some of +them were of very large stature. The storm broke with great violence +accompanied with thunder and lightning and scattered the cattle off +the camp in spite of the efforts of the party to keep them. The +thunder caused them to rush about, whilst darkness caused the +watchers to run against them, and add to their fright. So they were +let go. (Camp LIV.) Distance 11 or 12 miles north. + +<p><i>December</i> 29.—The cattle were all gathered this morning, save 10, +for which Frank Jardine left two of the black-boys to seek and then +follow the party. To his great annoyance they came on at night +without them. The course to-day was N.N.E. over boggy tea-tree +flats, and low stringy-bark ridges. At three miles a large running +creek, one hundred yards wide, was struck, and had to be followed up +for four miles before a crossing was found. Four miles further +brought them to a small creek, well supplied with water from the +recent rains, and what was even more acceptable, plenty of green +feed, of which the cattle and horses stood in great need. The Leader +determined to halt here one day, to try and recover the lost cattle, +but felt anything but easy in doing so, for the flood-marks were six +feet high on the camp, which was high ground compared to the level +waste around them, and the rains seemed fairly to have set in. +Another heavy storm poured down on them at night. (Camp LV.) + +<p><i>December</i> 30.—The cattle remained here to-day, whilst Scrutton and +Eulah were sent back for the lost cattle. The Brothers went forward +a day's stage to try and find some high ground. In this they did not +succeed. The country was all alike, and they were satisfied beyond +doubt that it must be one sea during the rains; not a very comforting +discovery. They found a creek four miles on, which received the name +of Macleod Creek. It was large and deep, with a strong current +running, and chose a place at which they would have to cross, between +two high banks of red sandstone. They then returned to camp, and +spent the rest of the day in "sugar bag" hunting, in which they were +very successful, bringing in as much as made a feed for the whole +camp, which was no small quantity. Scrutton and Eulah returned at +dark, without having seen any traces of the missing cattle, so it was +determined to go on without them, as it would have been madness to +have remained longer in such dangerous country. At night they +experienced a heavy storm, which is thus described in Frank Jardine's +journal:—"We had one of most severe wind and thunder storms this +evening that I ever saw. The largest trees bent like whip-sticks, +and the din caused by the wind, rain, thunder, and trees falling, +beyond description. People looking at it from under a snug roof +would have called it <i>grand</i>, but we rhymed it with a very different +word." This may be called a "joke under difficulties." + +<p><i>December</i> 31.—Macleod Creek was reached by half-past eight o'clock +this morning, and cattle, horses, and packs were all safely crossed +by 9.15. The journey was then continued over, or rather, through +very boggy tea-tree flats, and undulating stringy-bark, nonda, and +bloodwood country, to a large flooded creek, coming from the +eastward, which received the name of "Kendall Creek," after a friend +of Mr. Richardson's. There was a little rising ground on its banks, +on which the party camped. Frank Jardine went up it for a few miles, +and found a spot at which to cross the next day, in the same manner +as at the last. At this camp some capital barramundi and perch were +caught, one of the former weighing no less than 14 pounds. They were +a great treat, as the party had been without meat for some days, the +heavy rains allowing them no chance of killing. The distance +travelled to-day was 12 miles, and course generally N.N.W., but the +track was winding in consequence of having to lead the horses, and +thread the way through the soundest looking places. (Camp LVI.) + +<h3>CHAPTER IV</h3> + +<blockquote>New Year's Day—Sinclair Creek—New Year's Creek—Kinloch Creek - +Micketeeboomulgeiai—The River Archer—The Coen—Slough of Despond +- River Batavia—Two Horses Drowned—Five Horses Poisoned - +Symptoms—Abandon Baggage—Cache—Party commence Walking - +Difficult Travelling—Two more Horses Die—Last Encounter with +Natives—Pandanus Thorns—Another Horse Sickens—Urgency of +Getting Forward—Dalhunty Creek—Another Horse Dies—"Creamy" and +"Rocket" Die—Skardon's Creek—Pitcher Plant—Two Saddles +Abandoned—Nell Gwynne's Foal Killed—Richardson's Range.</blockquote> + +<p><i>January</i> 1.—Kendall Creek was crossed early on the morning of +this, New Year's Day, and subsequently at distances of 10 and 14 +miles, two small creeks of running water, coming from the eastward, +named respectively Sinclair and New Year's Creeks, in which lilies +were abundant (<i>Blue Nympheas</i>), and on the last of which the party +camped. The progress was rendered very tedious and difficult, by the +large trunks and branches of trees, which had been blown down by the +storm of the 30th December, over and amongst which the weak horses +kept constantly falling. The country changed into red sandy ridges, +shewing an outcrop of sandstone, timbered with tall straight saplings +of stringy-bark and bloodwood, the larger timber having in all cases +been blown down. Some grass-tree country was also passed, covered +with quartz pebbles, white, or colored with oxide of iron. The +distance accomplished was 14 miles on a course of N.E. by N. (Camp +LVII. Nonda.) A heavy thunder-storm broke at night, followed by +steady rain. + +<p><i>January</i> 2.—The heavy rain, boggy soil, and recent long stages +made it necessary to turn out the cattle during the last night, as +the poor animals had so little chance of feeding during the day. +They were, however, gathered by the time the horses were ready in the +morning, having, probably, but little temptation to stray on the +boggy ground. The country traversed was similar to that of +yesterday, and very much encumbered with fallen timber. The grasses, +though thin, are of the best quality. Altogether the interval +between Kendall Creek and to-night's camp, a distance of 30 miles, +would make a fine cattle run, being watered at every six or seven +miles by running creeks, besides a large swamp. It was found to be +an extensive plateau, sloping away to the eastward, terminating +abruptly in a perpendicular wall, overlooking the valley, on the head +of which the party camped. The camp was one of the best of the whole +journey, being pitched on a grassy rise, sloping gently to the +eastward, and was a grateful relief after the barren and waterless +camps of the journey. The latitude was 13 degrees 47 seconds. +Distance 16 miles. (Camp LVIII.) + +<p><i>January</i> 3.—This morning the creek was followed down to near its +junction with a large sandy stream, coming from the north-east, which +was named Kinloch Creek, in honor of John Kinloch, Esq., Mathematical +Master of Sydney College. It was plentifully watered, and remarkable +for presenting the only iron-bark trees that were seen since leaving +the Einasleih. At 8 and 12 miles, two small very boggy creeks were +crossed, the first of which had to be bridged. Their banks were very +unsound and swampy, covered with tea-tree, pandanus, ferns, and all +kinds of valueless underwood. They were full of lilies, and appeared +to be constantly running, from which it was conjectured that they +must take their rise from springs. On passing the last, the party +emerged on to poorly grassed, desolate-looking sandstone ridges, +covered with grass-tree and zamia. A pine-tree ridge was then +passed, and a camp formed on a small water-course beyond, the total +distance being 16y miles on a bearing of N.N.E. 1/2 N. The latitude +was ascertained to be 13 degrees 35 minutes 54 seconds S. During the +day red kangaroos were seen, also the Torres Straits pigeon, and two +black cockatoos, with very large stiff crest, crimson cheeks, and +large black bill, the rest of the body black. This was the +(<i>Microglossus Aterrimus</i>), a species peculiar to Northern Australia. +It is nearly one-third larger in size than the common black cockatoo, +from which it is mainly distinguished by the color of the bill, which +is black. (Camp LIX. Bloodwood.) + +<p><i>January</i> 4.—A heavy storm of rain and thunder having been +experienced last night, the party made a short day's stage, and +camped early to enable them to dry their meat, saddlery, bags, etc., +which had been thoroughly soaked. The horses backs too, were getting +sore from the use of wet saddles, and themselves tired. The course +was north, over stringy-bark and bloodwood ridges for 5 miles, to a +large running creek named Micketeeboomulgeiai,* from the north-east, +on which a crossing had to be cut; a mile-and-a-half further on, an +ana-branch was crossed, and the party camped. (Camp LX. Bloodwood.) + +<blockquote>[footnote]*In the Wellington Dialect "place where the lightning struck."</blockquote> + +<p><i>January</i> 5.—Still raining and wet to-day. A table-land of open +sandy ridges was traversed to a high point, the edge of which was +reached in five miles on a course N. by E. On reaching this point a +range was seen in front, extending east and west about 10 miles off, +between which and the party, a fine valley extended, traversed by a +large sandy river, which was named the Archer, in honor of Messrs. +Archer, of Gracemere. The river Archer flows from the north-east, +through a valley of great richness and beauty, and considered by the +explorers to be the best country for cattle seen north of Broadsound. +The banks of the river are fringed by a thick belt of vine-scrub, +containing very many Leichhardt and other handsome trees and shrubs +of great luxuriance and growth. The valley is also described as +being the first locality where any varities of flowers were seen, +some were of great beauty, particularly a bulb which bears a large +flower, shaped like a larkspur, of every tinge of red, from a +delicate pink to a rich purple. After crossing the Archer two +ana-branches were passed, the route laying over loamy black and +chocolate flats, and fine long sloping ridges, very thickly grassed, +quite free from stones, well-watered, and despite the heavy rains +that had fallen, perfectly sound. The range seen from the table-land +was low, and of much the same description. Distance travelled 15 +miles N. by E. (Camp LXI. Applegum.) + +<p><i>January</i> 6.—The march to-day was very trying to the poor horses, +being chiefly over rotten melon-hole country, of a yellow clayey +soil, timbered with stunted bloodwood and pandanus, the rain pouring +down all day. At two miles from camp a large creek was crossed +containing a little rain water, and subsequently nine or ten small +deep waterless creeks, their beds too sandy to be retentive. On one +of these the wearied party camped at the end of 16 or 17 miles. A +range 8 or 9 miles to the East, was sighted during the day. +Notwithstanding the rain, barely sufficient water was found at the +camp. Distance 17 miles. Course North. (Camp LXII. Poplar gum.) + +<p><i>January</i> 7.—At rather more than a mile from camp, two branches of +a large deep creek, were crossed just above its junction. It runs +from W. by N., had a little water in it, and the usual fringe of dark +green vine scrub, interspersed with Leichhardt trees. A hill on the +north bank covered with large sandstone boulders, marks the +crossing-place of the party. Numerous small water-courses similar to +those of yesterday, were crossed to-day. The country slightly +improved but was of the same character, waterless but for the showers +of rain. I was strange to see the horses bogging leg deep during a +thunder-storm, and in five minutes after unable to get a drink of +water. Large red funnel-shaped ant-hills were seen, in some +instances as high as 18 to 20 feet. The timber in addition to the +usual varities comprised zamias, iron bark, acacia, pandanus, mimosa, +sterculia [(<i>Currijong</i>), grevillia, coral, (<i>Erythrina</i>), and Nonda +(<i>Walrothia</i>) trees. Scrub turkeys (<i>Talegalla Lathami</i>), wonga +wongas, and Torres Straits pigeon were seen. The party camped at the +end of 15 miles in a shallow tea-tree gulley, with a little water +from last night's rain in its sandy bed, supplying themselves with +drinking water from the rain, caught by the tents. Course North. +(Camp LXIII. Acacia.) + +<p><i>January</i> 8.—The first 15 miles travelled over to-day were good +undulating forest country, timbered chiefly with box and applegum, +and a few iron-barks, and intersected with numerous canal-like +creeks, running north-west, but without water; the last three miles +was wretchedly bad, being similar to the tea-tree country of the +Staaten. The whole country between the Archer and Staaten is without +water, save immediately after rain, sufficiently heavy to set the +creeks running. The party camped on a small tea-tree "Gilgai," or +shallow water pan, and experienced another night of heavy rain with +high wind. Two more horses, Rasper and N'gress were found knocked +up. Distance 18 miles. Course N. The latitude of the camp was +ascertained to be 12 degrees 38 minutes 2 seconds. (Camp LXIV. +Bloodwood.) + +<p><i>January</i> 9.—The fact of high land being observed to the west of +the course, and that the creeks all flowed eastward, induced the +party to think that they were near on the eastern slope of the +peninsula. This idea, however, was dispelled on their reaching at +the end of ten miles, a large river which was supposed to be the +Coen. It was running strongly W.N.W., and seemed distinctly to +divide the good and bad country, that on the south side being richly +grassed, open and lightly timbered, lucerne and other fine herbs +occurring frequently, whilst on the north side it relapsed into the +old barren tea-tree country of which so much had been traversed. +Considerable time was lost by the party in cutting a road for the +cattle through the thick scrub that fringes its banks, a kind of work +which was now becoming familiar. The Coen is about sixty yards wide, +sandy, and contains crocodiles. The country on it is described as +being of excellent quality for a cattle run. The party camped on a +tea-tree swamp with a few inches of water in it, 6 miles beyond the +crossing place. During the day wongas and Torres Strait pigeons were +observed, and scrub turkeys frequented the river scrubs. Distance 16 +miles. Course North. (Camp LXV. Bloodwood.) + +<p><i>January</i> 10.—The journey to-day was one of unusual fatigue and +hardship. The country for the first two miles was comparatively +sound, but at this point the course was intercepted by a narrow boggy +creek, running strongly through a tea-tree flat. Although care and +time were taken in the selection of a proper spot, when the herd +began to cross, the leading cattle, breaking through the crust, sank +to their hips in the boggy spew below, and in a short time between 30 +and 40 were stuck fast, the remainder ploughing through with great +difficulty. Four beasts refused to face it altogether, and it was +found necessary, after wasting considerable time and a deal of +horse-flesh, to let them go. The greater part of the day was +consumed in dragging out the bogged cattle with ropes. Even with +this method and with all the exertions that could be used by the +party, five had to be abandoned, nothing appearing above the ground +but their backs and heads. The horses were more easily crossed, but +their saddles, packs, and loads had to be carried over by the party. +They then camped on the creek, and spent the remainder of the day in +drying their arms, saddles, etc., and in jerking the beef of one of +the beasts which they had been unable to pull out of the slough. +Heavy rain again fell at night, which caused an apprehension that +their progress would be altogether stopped if it continued. Distance +2 1/2 miles. Course North. (Camp LXVI. Pomegranite.) + +<p><i>January</i> 11.—It is at this point that the heaviest troubles and +hardships of the party appear to have commenced, ,troubles that might +well appal hearts less stout than those of the Leader and his +brother, and hardships bearing heavily on each member of the party, +but doubly so on them who had to explore, mark, and clear the way for +the cattle, in addition to the ordinary labor of the journey. After +having travelled with the greatest difficulty for two miles over +execrable country, so boggy as to be barely possible to traverse, +their progress was stopped by a creek 25 yards wide, flooded "bank +and bank," and running like a mill sluice. This was the river +Batavia. The usual formidable fringe of vine scrub covered the +margin and approaches and had to be cut through before the cattle +could cross. This was done by the Brothers by the time they came up, +and in addition a large melaleuca which leant over the stream, was +felled across it, by means of which (by tying a rope above it, as a +leading line), they were enabled to carry over the packs, saddles, +stores, etc., on their heads. The cattle accustomed to swimming, +took the water in splendid style, one however getting entangled and +drowned. With the horses they were not so fortunate, for though a +head stall was put on each with a rope attached to the bit, to haul +them across, the rapidity of the current swept away two of them into +a tangle of vines in the middle of the stream, under which they were +carried and drowned, despite the exertions of four or five of the +party to pull them across by the rope. Their efforts to save them +nearly cost their own lives, and A. Jardine chronicles receiving a +"nasty crack" in the head from a log in attempting to disentangle his +own horse "Jack" from the vines, one which might have closed his +career, had it been a degree harder, the other, "Blokus," was a +Government horse, belonging to Mr Richardson; both were useful +horses, and a great loss to the party, but only the forerunner of +much greater ones. The creek at last crossed, the party attempted to +push forward on the other side, but after travelling a mile leading +the horses, slushing through bog and swamp under a heavy rain, they +were obliged to turn back and encamp on some high ground on the banks +of the creek, about half-a-mile above the crossing, where there was a +little good grass. Several of their horses were left behind bogged, +one mare in particular, "Nell Gwynne," being too weak to travel. +Distance 3 miles. Course N. (Camp LXVII.) + +<p><i>January</i> 12.—It was determined to camp here to-day, both to spell +the weak horses and dry many things that had got wet. The horses +left bogged the previous night were got out, when on returning to the +camp, it was found that a number of the others were poisoned, and one +missing. The black-boys were immediately sent out in search of him, +but were unsuccessful. Meanwhile the party being unable to shift +camp that day, a yard was immediately formed, all herbs carefully +pulled up in and about it, and the horses penned there. The +precaution came too late, for before evening five of them besides the +missing one ("Rasper") were dead. It was supposed that "Rasper" must +have got into the river and been drowned, as one of the effects of +the poison is complete blindness. The symptoms are thus described. +Profuse sweating, with a heaving of the flanks, the ears droop, the +eyes glaze, set, and the animal finally turns stone blind. He then +lies down, struggles fitfully for several hours, and never rises +again. This was a heavy blow. Ten of their horses were now gone, +eight of which were picked, and the best of the whole number, besides +being the best conditioned, one peculiarity of the poison being that +it appears to attack the fattest animals. A careful search was made +to detect the plant that caused this fearful loss, but +unsuccessfully. The number of horses being now reduced to +twenty-one, and those the poorest and worst, it became necessary to +take only what was actually wanted of their baggage, and to abandon +the remainder. A cache was accordingly dug, and 25 sets of +horse-shoes, a lot of nails and other miscellaneous articles were +buried at the foot of an iron acacia on the top of the ridge and +facing the creek, on which was marked in a sheild F J over LXVII. +over DIG in heart. The horses were kept in the yard all night, and +the rest of the day and evening spent in disposing of the reduced +loading, and making preparations for leaving this fatal camp. The +rain continued to fall heavily throughout the day, which could not +under the circumstances, have increased the cheerfulness of the +party. The Leader, however, closes the entry in his Diary with "Nil +Desperandum" merely marking the day of the week in parenthesis as +("Black Thursday.") + +<p><i>January</i> 13.—The poor condition of the horses, and the wretchedly +soft nature of the ground, making it impossible for them to be +ridden, or do more than carry the diminished loads of baggage and +stores, the party had no choice but to walk and in some cases even to +carry the packs of the horses. Mr. A. Jardine describes their +appearance this morning as "rather neat" at the starting from the +camp, the two Brothers, Mr. Binney, Scrutton, and the four black-boys +having doffed everything but their shirts and belts. It was well for +the whites that their previous habits on the journey had hardened +their feet and enabled them to travel without shoes, with but little +less hardship than their black companions. This they had acquired by +the custom on coming into camp, of going out with the boys opossum +and "sugar bag" hunting. With stout hearts and naked legs, therefore +they faced forward driving the horses and cattle before them, and by +the end of the day placed ten miles between them and "Poison Creek," +as it was then named. This however was not accomplished without +great toil, the country traversed being red soil ridges, with black +soil tea-tree flats between them, which were so many bogs. In these +the cattle floundered and bogged at every hundred yards, and even the +spare unladen horses had to be pulled out. The latter were at length +so completely knocked up that it was necessary to leave some of them +at one side of a swamp, the party carrying their packs and loads +about a quarter-of-a-mile on to a dry ridge on the other. Here they +camped and tired as they were, were obliged to keep a vigilant watch, +as, to add to their many annoyances the natives had been following +them all day. Distance 10 miles N.E. by N. Box marked F.J. 68 cross. + +<p><i>January</i> 14.—At daylight this morning the horses were got over +the swamp, with less difficulty than was expected, being recruited by +their night's rest. The journey was resumed at 6.30. There had been +no rain on the previous day and night, and the ground with only this +twenty-four hours of dry weather had hardened sufficiently on the +crust to allow the horses to walk without bogging. This crust, +however, once broken through, they bogged hopelessly, until dragged +out with ropes. In this the water and sludge oozing out from the +tracks were great auxiliaries, as they formed a kind of batter, in +which, by pulling the horses on their sides, they slid along like +sledges. This process had continually to be repeated throughout the +day, causing so much delay, that seven or eight miles were with +difficulty accomplished. At each running stream the packs had to be +taken off and carried over. The country traversed was similar to +that of yesterday, undulating blood-wood red soil ridges, +sufficiently well-grassed, with the everlasting black soil, tea-tree +flats, and gullies running between them, some being very wide. Two +more horses died during the day from the effects of the poison, and +the Leader owns that he was beginning to be at his wits end as to how +they were to get along. Every superfluity and been abandoned, and, +with the exception of a few light things, such as clothes and +blankets, of too trifling weight to make it worth while to leave, and +only what was absolutely necessary, retained; yet there were barely +sufficient horses left to carry that. He had therefore good cause +for anxiety. The day kept tolerably fair until the party came into +camp, when the rain came down in torrents. Whilst in the hurry and +confusion of putting up the tents to protect the stores from the +deluge that was pouring, the alarm of "blacks" was again given. They +were fortunately unarmed, and the party easily chased them away. +This was fortunate, and was caused by the native custom of making the +gins carry their spears and shields on the march, themselves only +carrying a nulla or two. They were soon back again however, with +large bundles of spears, but not before the party had had time to +prepare for them. The rifles were dry and loaded. Frank Jardine +here owns to a feeling of savage delight at the prospect of having a +"shine" with these wretched savages, who, without provocation, hung +on their footsteps dogging them like hawks all through the thickest +of their troubles, watching with cowardly patience, for a favourable +moment to attack them at a disadvantage. Even then, however, he +would not be the agressor, but allowed them to come within sixty +yards, and ship their spears in the woomerahs, before they were fired +upon. The two foremost men fell to the only two shots that were +discharged, and their companions at once broke and fled; nor was the +advantage followed up, as the travellers were careful to husband +their ammunition, and their caps were running short. This, however, +was the last occasion on which the party was molested, their sable +adversaries having, probably, at length learned that "they were worth +letting alone," and never again shewing themselves. The distance +travelled was 8 miles. N.E. by N. + +<p><i>January</i> 15.—This being Sunday and horses, cattle, and men, being +in want of rest after the work of the last two days, it was +determined to make a rest day. The party employed part of the time +in spreading out the contents of the pack bags to dry, everything +having become mouldy with the constant wetting. The day was marked +too, by a grant feast of "stodge," doughboys, and jam, stodge being a +delicacy extemporised for the occasion, consisting of "flour boiled +with water to the consistency of paste, with some small pieces of raw +meat thrown into it"!! The Brothers spent part of the afternoon in +the mutual good offices of picking the pandanus thorns out of each +others feet and legs, the blackboys following their example. These +thorns were a constant source of small torture to the party. The +necessity of trying the ground in advance of the cattle prevented +them wearing boots, and thus feet and legs were left without any +protection, and exposed them day after day to the same annoyance. +Another horse, "Creamy," sickened from the effects of the poison. It +was thought that he had not taken enough to kill him, and that the +day's rest would set him to rights. A cow was also left bogged in +the swamp. The ground on which the party encamped was supposed at +first to be dry, being on a bloodwood ridge, with six or eight inches +of gravel on the surface, but the heavy rain of the previous night +caused the water to run through the tents to a depth of three inches. +It was only necessary to scratch a handful of gravel off the crust to +get clear running water for drinking. A heavy rain again fell during +the night, dispelling all hopes of sound travelling for the morrow. +(Camp LXIX. Bloodwood.) + +<p><i>January</i> 16.—The absolute necessity of getting at or near their +destination before the setting in of the periodical rains, stimulated +the Leader to urge the party to long stages, which was not at all +relished by some of the number, two of whom at starting made repeated +requests to camp for another day, alleging that they could not walk +any further. To this Mr. Jardine could not listen, and being further +importuned, disposed of the request summarily by packing their rifles +on the horses, and telling them that they might remain or come on as +they might elect. He heard no more grumbling, and a good stage was +accomplished. The country for the first two miles was similar to +that of the last two stages. It then suddenly changed into red sandy +stringy-bark ridges, with a dense under-growth of vines, zamias, and +pandanus, which made the walking difficult and painful. Several +creeks were crossed, the largest of which was at ten miles from the +camp, and running W. by N., and the party halted at another six miles +further on, which received the name of Dalhunty Creek. Its course +was west, and it was remarkable for the palms (<i>Seaforthia Elegans</i>) +growing in its bed. All these creeks were supposed to be tributaries +of the Batavia River. The party had only to unpack the horses twice +during the day, and made a capital stage, but not without paying for +it, for even the Black-boys shewed signs of fatigue. Their legs and +feet, as well as those of most of the party were in a frightful +state, cut in peices by the thorny vines which covered the line of +march. They were now completely out of meat, but it would have been +unwise to halt to kill a beast for three reasons: first, the +weather; next, the fact that they could not pack the meat without +leaving behind something to make place for it, another of their +horses, Combo, having died to-day from the effects of the poison; and +lastly, the urgency of getting forward whilst the weather would admit +of it. The morning had been rainy, but in the afternoon it cleared +up and gave promised of a few fair days, of which it was expedient to +take advantage. In addition to the horse that died (Combo), two more +of their best horses (Rocket and Creamy) were fast sinking. It was a +fearful thing to see them dwindling away day by day, without power to +help or time to halt for them; but to press forward was a paramount +necessity. Distance 16 miles North. (Camp LXX. Applegum.) + +<p><i>January</i> 17.—The country traversed to-day was similar to that of +yesterday, save that the ridges were higher and more stony. Creeks +were crossed at two and ten miles, running strongly westward, which +appeared to be permanent. Five miles further on, the party camped on +a smaller one of the same character, having vine scrub and seaforthia +palms on its banks, which was named Skardon's Creek. The horse +Creamy died during the day, and Rocket through the night. These +losses reduced their horses from forty-two, with which they started, +to fifteen of the culls. They were in latitude 11 degrees 51 minutes +50 seconds, and by their dead reckoning, just about the track of +Kennedy, supposing it to have been correctly charted, and therefore +on the western slope of the dividing range. The Torres Strait pigeon +(<i>Carpophaga Luctuosa</i>) was again seen, and the bitcher +plant(<i>Nepenthes Kennedya</i>) first noticed. Two of the police saddles +had to be left at this camp in consequence of the loss of the horses. +Distance 15 1/2 miles. North. (Camp LXXI.) + +<p><i>January</i> 18.—The march to-day is described as being through the +most abominable country that can well be imagined, being a +continuation of loose white sandy ranges, thickly covered with low +bush from three to eight feet in height, broom, fern, grass-tree +(<i>Xanthoraea</i>), pandanus, and "five-corner" bushes, being thickly +matted together with prickly vine. Not a tree relieved the monotony +of this waste, and what was worse, not a blade of grass was seen for +miles. Several deep creeks were crossed, all running strongly with +clear pelluced water to W. and N.W. The timber when it occured was +bloodwood, stringy and iron-bark on the ridges, banksia, grevillia, +and several kinds of tea-trees in the gullies, which were +honey-combed and boggy. Two new kinds of palm were seen. The bush +which seems to be what Kennedy alluded to as "heath," could only be +got through by leading a horse ahead, the others following slowly +behind him, the cattle then following in their track. A straight +course was impossible, as all the boggy creeks and gullies had to be +run up to their heads before they could be crossed. A general +course, however, was kept of N. by E. The packs were continually +being knocked off the horses, occasioning great delay, so that only +12 miles were accomplished. Some black perch were caught in one of +the creeks, and scrub turkeys were seen. Poor "Nell Gwynne's" foal +knocked up to-day, after having kept up bravely since the mare's +death. Nothing remained therefore but to kill him. The party being +without meat, and it being impossible to stop in such a country to +kill a beast, part of his flesh was dressed and carried on, which was +a grateful addition to the food, and although two or three at first +refused to eat of it, the craving of hunger soon made them forget +their repugnance to horse-flesh. At night the horses had to be short +hobbled and a watch kept over them. The weather kept fine, raising +the hopes of the Leader of getting in before the rains. + +<p><i>January</i> 19.—Despite the watch kept over the horses, they got +away during the night, and a late start was the consequence. Several +hours were also lost at the first mile on the journey, in consequence +of some of the horses getting "upside down" in one of the deep narrow +creeks, which were constantly recurring, and having to be extricated. +These creeks run N.W., and take their rise from springs. They are so +boggy that in some cases, though perhaps only eighteen inches wide, +they had to be headed before the cattle could pass. The summit of +the range was reached in seven miles of similar country to that of +yesterday, resembling (identical in fact) in appearance and botanical +character, to the worst country of Botany Bay, the Surry Hills, and +coast about Sydney. A thick vine scrub was then passed, when the +party emerged on to some open ridges of red sandy soil, timbered with +bloodwood, stringy-bark, and nonda. They were now satisfied that +they were on eastern waters, as, whilst out sugar-bag hunting in the +evening, the Brothers saw the blue waters of the ocean about twelve +or fifteen miles to the eastward, a small arm of which was supposed +to be a bay to the northward of Cape Grenville. Their latitude was +11 degrees 46 minutes 36 seconds. The camp was pitched at the head +of a small creek running eastward. + +<p><i>January</i> 20.—After 4 miles of brushwood and scrubby range had +been accomplished this morning, further progress was stopped by a +dense pine and vine scrub stretching across the course. The cattle +were halted outside, whilst the Brothers made search for an opening +for them to get through, in doing which they came on to a narrow +track cut by the blacks. This they followed for more than two miles, +but were obliged to return at last, the vine ropes, tangle, and dense +scrub, making it hopeless to attempt taking the cattle along it. A +further search proved equally unsuccessful. The whole party had +therefore to turn back along their tracks for a couple of miles, then +turning east they travelled on that bearing. At about half-a-mile +they reached the eastern slope, from which the sea was distinctly +visible. A spur of the range was followed for about four miles into +rather better country, where the party camped, being well-grassed and +slightly timbered, though stoney. Although about 9 miles were +travelled over, the distance in latitude from the last camp could not +have been more than one-and-a-half miles. From a bluff on the range +a fine view of the low country and sea was obtained, and a bearing +taken to Cape Grenville of 117 deg. Blacks' tracks were very +numerous to-day, and it was evident by the neat cutting of the marks +on the trees that they were provided with good iron tomahawks. Many +turkeys' nests were found, but the eggs only benefitted the stronger +stomachs of the party, having young ones in them in most cases. In +crossing one of the boggy creeks, one of the horses jumped on to a +pack-saddle, and a hook entering his skin lacerated it dreadfully. + +<p><i>January</i> 21.—The course to-day was N.E. by N., along the eastern +slope of the Richardson Range, through a fearfully difficult country. +Seven deep scrubby creeks had to be crossed running strongly to the +westward, whose banks were invariably fringed with a thick scrub, +which had in each case to be cut through before the cattle could +pass: one in particular was so dense that it alone occupied three +hours in cutting. The cattle occasionally got their horns entangled +in the vines, and had to be cut loose. One cow got fearfully furious +at being thus arrested, and when extricated, galloped straight away, +and was no more seen. Over seven hours were occupied in making a +distance of about 8 miles, only 3 of which were spent in actual +travelling. A great variety of palms were seen in the scrubs, which +were covered with fruit and berries, but only the "Seaforthia," the +most graceful of the family, the 'Caryota Urens', remarkable for its +star-shaped fronds and the more common 'Corypha', of which the +colonial straw-hats are made, were known to the travellers. Latitude +11 degrees 37 minutes 46 seconds. + +<p><i>January</i> 22.—The country traversed to-day was of the same +description as that of yesterday, utterly without grass, and the same +tedium and toil were experienced in cutting through the vine scrubs +which bordered the running creeks. These were very numerous, and +quite uniform in their difficulty, a lane for the cattle having to be +cut through each. Some very large pines were noticed to-day (most +probably 'Araucaria Cunninghamii'), which, forming large and dense +scrubs, twice forced the party out of their course. The camp +to-night was a very miserable one, surrounded by scrub and brushwood, +without a blade of grass for the stock, or even a tree that could be +marked, and to add to their wretchedness, a heavy rain came down +which lasted till near midnight. Course N.W., 10 miles. (Camp +LXXVI.) + +<p><i>January</i> 23.—A steady rain poured down all to-day, and as +yesterday, the route alternated over and through desert wastes of +brush and tangled scrubs, the former telling with great severity on +the lacerated feet of the travellers. Their legs had the appearance +of having been curried by a machine. At the end of 9 miles they +luckily came on to a creek comparatively well-grassed on the banks. +This being the first that had been seen for three days, they joyfully +encamped on an open ridge. The timber comprised nonda, grevillea, +banksia, tea-tree, mahogany, and many other tropical trees not known. +The total distance travelled was 10 miles. N. by W. (Camp LXXVII.) + +<p><i>January</i> 24.—For the first three miles to-day, the country +remained similar to the generality, that is, scrub and heath, after +this it slightly improved, opening into coarse sandstone ridges, in +some parts strewed with quartz pebbles, either white or tinted with +oxide of iron. At two miles from the start a stream was struck, +running north, having a clear sandy bed thirty yards wide, which was +immediately concluded to be a head of the Escape River, and a +continuation of that crossed on the 22nd. Into this, numerous short +steep scrubby creeks discharge themselves from the range or ridge to +the eastward. These had, as usual, all to have passages cut through +them for the stock. At the end of about six miles, a heavy +thunder-storm coming on whilst the party were engaged in clearing, +the creek they were upon was sent up bank and bank by the storm +water, and barred their further progress. They were therefore +compelled to camp. At sundown it was again nearly dry, but the rain +continued at intervals till midnight. During the day a large low +table-topped mountain was passed about 4 miles to the eastward. It +was either bare of timber or heath clad, and received the name of +Mount Bourcicault. (LXXVIII.) Distance 6 miles. N. by W. + +<p><i>January</i> 25.—A ten-mile journey was accomplished to-day, the +country for the first seven having slightly improved into red soil +ridges coarsely grassed, having patches of scrub along their summits. +The remaining three were of the usual character, heath and brushwood, +in the midst of which, in a miserable hole as it is described, they +were obliged to camp. A delay of a couple of hours occured in +consequence of a thunder-storm flooding a narrow gutter that might be +hopped over. It was not until this subsided that the horses and +cattle could be made to face it, the poor brutes having been so +frightened with bogs and water, that the horses had to be led over +the smallest of them. The rain still continued to pour heavily at +intervals during the day. (Camp LXXIX.) No trees to mark. The +course was N. by W. + +<p><i>January</i> 26.—After two miles of travelling, the party again +struck the supposed Escape River. The stream was flooded, and at +this point fifty yards wide, and the bed clear of fallen timber. A +bloodwood tree was marked on both sides, on the S. bank. The country +on either side is of a red and white sandy soil, timbered with +bloodwood, mahogany, melaleuca and black and white tea-tree, coarsely +grassed, with heath and scrub running down to the banks in many +places. The river was followed down for 7 or 8 miles, its general +course being N.W., the party having to cut roads for the cattle +through the thick scrubs which lined the tributary creeks and +gullies, in four instances. At this distance a large branch nearly +equal in size, joins it from the south-east, to which the name of the +"McHenry"* was given. It being flooded and deep, the party traced it +upwards for about a mile from its junction and encamped. The tents +being pitched and everything made secure for the night, the Brothers +explored up the stream in search of a good crossing place for the +morrow. After several trials were made, a spot was finally decided +upon, about three-quarters-of-a-mile from the camp, and they returned +with the pleasing prospect of having to swim the cattle and horses +over next day, and carry the packs on their heads. Black and white +cockatoos, some parrots, scrub turkeys (<i>Talegalla Lathami</i>), and +white pigeons (Torres Straits), were seen on the march, throughout +which the rain still continued to fall, as it did also during the +night. At this camp (80) the last of the sugar was finished, but +this was not thought much of, as from the latitude being ascertained +to be 11 degrees 10 minutes, it was supposed that Somerset could not +be more than 20 or 30 miles distant. How they were undeceived in +their conjecture, and had their hopes disappointed, will be seen. + +<blockquote>[footnote] *After Captain J. McHenry, of Arthur Downs, Isaac River.</blockquote> + +<p><i>January</i> 27.—Early this morning the party addressed themselves to +the task of crossing the McHenry. This was accomplished in safety, +cattle and horses taking the water like dogs, the greater difficulty +being in getting over the packs, saddles, and stores, which had to be +carried on the heads of the swimmers of the party, and this necessary +part of a bushman's education was not common to all, or at least +sufficiently to be of use. The course was then continued on the +other side to the junction of the two streams. The rain continued to +fall steadily during most of the day, filling up every little creek +and gutter. Some of the former had to be swum over, whilst the +latter occured at every mile. Just below the junction there is a +large dense vine-scrub, which had to be skirted, after which, the +party continued their course down the supposed Escape, which had now +increased its width to a hundred yards. Its width when first struck, +was only twenty, increasing to forty or fifty at its junction with +the McHenry, when the united streams form an imposing river. Its +course is extremely winding, whilst the numberless creeks and gulleys +which join it, all with scrubby banks, make travelling along its +banks, a work of great labor and difficulty. The country on this +day's march slightly improved, being more open and better grassed, +the best being on the river banks, but coarse and sparse at best. +The timber chiefly bloodwood and black tea-tree. Several trees were +marked with a cross at the crossing place of the McHenry, and one +similarly at the point of the scrub below the junction. In +consequence of the many delays to-day the total distance travelled +was only 5 miles. Course N. by W. (Camp LXXXI.) + +<p><i>January</i> 28.—The course of the river was followed down to-day for +about two-and-a-half miles, but the endlessly recurring water +courses, each with its eternal fringe of thick vine scrub, at last +compelled the party to turn to the west in order to avoid them, there +being no time to cut roads for the cattle. They were constantly +getting entangled by the horns in the hanging vines of the <i>Calamus +Australis</i> and <i>Flagetlaria</i>, so often referred to. The effect of +this on some was to work them into such a perfect fury, that when +released by the party cutting them clear, they would in some +instances rush blindly away from the herd and be lost, as described +before. The intention on starting was to run the river down to the +head of the tide, and then establish a camp, where the cattle could +stay, whilst the Brothers went on to find Somerset, now supposed to +be not far distant. On leaving the river the course was shaped west, +to head the scrubs on the tributaries, but this, far from improving +the travelling, made it worse as they got into a maze of scrub, +heath, and swamps, through which they had to thread their course. +They, had therefore, to make their way back to the river, which was +again struck in about 7 miles. It was here running north, the bed +free from fallen timber, and about 150 yards wide, and so full and +flooded as to make it impossible to discover whether it was within +the tidal influence or not. Following the river for 4 miles, making +a total journey of 12, the rain pouring the whole day, the party +camped on the bank, where alone grass was to be found, and that even +very poor and thin. Two of the horses "Tabinga," and "Pussey," had +to be left about three miles back from the camp with their saddles, +utterly knocked up. A lame heifer was killed and cut up for jerking, +on the morrow. Course N.W. by N. Distance 12 miles. (Camp LXXXII.) + +<p><i>January</i> 29.—This day was devoted to rest, with the exception of +the necessary duties of jerking the beef of the heifer, and preparing +for the start of the Brothers to find Somerset. The horses left +behind were sent for and brought into camp, and dispositions made for +a halt, until the return of the Leader. The packs, saddles, and +stores were "overhauled," and found for the most part to be +completely rotted, from the constant rain and severe duckings they +had undergone, making the party congratulate themselves that they +were near their destination. At the request of Frank Jardine, Mr. +Richardson plotted up the route, as far as this camp, and gave him +his position on the chart, with a note "that camp 82 was on the +Escape River, eight miles in a direct line from where it joins the +sea, and sixteen miles from Somerset." In this, as in the case of +the position of the Lynd, he was mistaken, the reason for which, he +states to be that his sextant was out of order. This was much to be +regretted, as failing the correctness of the surveyor's observations, +Mr. Jardine might just as well trust to his own dead reckoning. It +might be supposed that Mr. Richardson having had an opportunity of +checking his position by the bearing to Cape Grenville, when he +sighted the sea on the 20th inst, at camp 74, should have been able +more accurately to have determined his present position, but he +excuses himself on the score of the difficulty of estimating the +daily distance whilst walking.* This is a very admissable +explanation, considering the tedium and slowness of their progress in +winding through scrubs, and being delayed by crossings, the +tortuousness of their route making it difficult to keep the course. +It was the more unfortunate, therefore, that the sextant, which was +naturally depended upon for keeping them informed of their progress, +should have been allowed to become so deranged, as to be less +reliable than the result of mere dead reckoning. + +<blockquote>[footnote] *See his Journal.</blockquote> + +<h3>CHAPTER V.</h3> + +<blockquote>First Start in Search of Settlement—Character of the Jardine— +The Eliot—Return to Main Camp—Flooded State of River— +Impromptu Raft—Crossing Horses—Uncertainty—Second Start in +Search of Settlement—View of the Ocean—Reach South Shore of +Newcastle Bay—Reach Mouth of True Escape—Unable to Cross—A +Dainty Meal—Character of the Escape—Return to Main Camp— +Horses Knocked-up—Another Horse Dead—Flour Exhausted— +Wretched Condition of Horses—More Baggage Abandoned—Prospects +—The Whole Party Again Move Forward—Another Horse Abandoned— +Reach Head of Tide View of the Gulf—Barne Island—Return up the +Jardine—Third Start in Search of Settlement—Wild Grape— +Crossing Saddles—a Disappointment—Head the Escape River—Meet +Friendly Natives—Natives Act as Pilots—Native Bread—Canoes +—Corroboree—Native Drums—Arrival at Somerset—Mr. Jardine's +Marked-tree Line—Meeting with their Father—A Heroine.</blockquote> + +<p><i>January</i> 30.—This morning, Mr. F. Jardine with his Brother and +the Blackboy, Eulah, started to find the Settlement, leaving the rest +of the party encamped with the cattle, in charge of Mr. Scrutton. +They took with them a week's ration of 25 lbs. of flour, and 12 lbs. +meat (tea and sugar had long been things of the past), intending to +follow the supposed river down to the head of the tide. It was +accordingly followed for about 21 miles, but to their astonishment, +instead of trending N.N.E., its general course was found to be +North-west 1/2 West. This led them to the conclusion that it was a +western water, and not as they had hitherto supposed, the Escape +River. Of this they were now convinced, but to make certain, agreed +to continue travelling down it for two days more, and with this +intent camped on a creek coming in from the southward. The margin of +the river is generally open and coarsely grassed, timbered with +mahogany, bloodwood, and melaleuca, the points of scrubs and +brushwood occasionally closing down to the stream. Its width varies +from one to two-hundred yards, with a sandy bed, entirely free from +fallen timber. Its banks are steep in many places, of white clay and +coarse sandstone, and fringed with tall melaleuca, whose long +drooping branches and leaves swept the rapid and deep stream. A +straight course was impracticable, for as soon as attempted, and the +river was out of sight, the party got entangled in thick brushes and +tea-tree swamps, without a blade of grass. They were obliged, +therefore, to follow the course of the river in all its windings. +The only birds seen were scrub turkeys, and Torres Strait pigeons. +The weather at starting was fine, but about 11 o'clock the rain +commenced, and continued steadily the whole of the day. At night, on +camping, a "bandicoot gunyah" was erected, and covered with the broad +pliable paper bark of the melaleuca, which made a snug shelter for +the night from the still pouring rain. Course generally N.W by W. +Distance following the river, 21 miles. + +<p><i>January</i> 31.—Crossing the creek immediately after leaving the +camp, the party still continued to follow the windings of the river +through similar country to that of yesterday, save that the ground +was more boggy, the swamps, ana-branches, and small lagoons more +numerous. On the latter some Coromandel geese were seen, of a +species different from those found near Rockhampton. The heavy rain +which had continued all last night had caused the river to rise +several inches. At about ten miles the progress of the party was +stopped by a large stream coming in from the South-east, about the +same size as the McHenry. A tree was marked AJ at the junction which +was very scrubby, and the new stream received the name of the Eliot. +It was running strongly, and had to be traced up for two miles, +before the party could cross in safety. This they fortunately +accomplished without accident, although the water was up to their +necks, as they waded across with their saddles and packs on their +heads, giving them all they could do to stem the rapid current. They +then proceeded on their way for 7 miles further, the last two of +which were through thick brush, and camped on the bank of the main +stream, now much augmented in size after receiving the waters of the +Eliot. There was but little grass for the poor horses, but no +choice, the country back from the river being all scrubs and swamps, +covered with tea-tree, but barren of grass. The total distance +travelled was 17 miles. The course generally West by South, clearly +proving that they could not be on the Escape. + +<p><i>February</i> 1.—The river was again followed for about seven miles +further, but as the course still continued to trend West, and even +south of West, the Brothers in disgust determined on re-tracing their +steps, satisfied, if satisfaction can be predicated of such a +disappointment, that they were on western waters, and that they had +not yet reached the looked-for Escape River. At this point, +therefore, they turned, intending to swim the river at the main camp, +and make another exploration to find the Settlement from the North +side, or right bank. By night-fall they reached their first night's +camp, where they found the "gunyah" very acceptable. They had now +followed the supposed Escape 45 miles; deducting a third for its +sinuosities, a distance of at least 30 miles in a straight line +Westward had been travelled, and they were filled with surprise that +so large and important a stream should have remained undiscovered. +Its width at their turning-point was over two-hundred yards, the +banks commencing to be very swampy, and it is described by Mr. A. +Jardine, as the most compact river, with the exception of the +Fitzroy, he had seen in the North. The rain continued as yesterday +during the whole of the day, accompanied with cold winds. This, +together with their disappointment, was sufficient to depress the +spirits of most men. There is not, however, in the journals of +either of the Brothers the slightest indication of despondency or +complaint. + +<p><i>February</i> 2.—The main camp was reached this morning early, and +everything found safe and right, save in one particular, that +deserves recording. In looking over the ration account, Mr. Jardine +found a deficiency of 30 lbs. of flour, accruing in the interval of +the four days of his absence. All denied any knowledge of it, and +all were equally certain that the allowance had not been exceeded; +"so" writes Frank Jardine, "where it is gone to, I am never likely to +know," and there the matter dropped. It is humiliating to think, +that amongst white men banded together in exploring parties, where +the success and safety of the enterprise are much dependent on the +good conduct of each individual member, there should be found +individuals so ignoble, as to appropriate an undue share of the +common stock of food on which the health, and perhaps the life of +each equally depends; and yet, sad to say, such instances are not +singular. The well-proved charge against Gray of cooking flour for +himself privately, for which he was chastised by poor Burke, is one +instance. Gray's excuse was that he was so ill, and his apologists +point to the fact that he subsequently died. Either Burke or Wills +would have died on the spot, rather than have taken an ounce more +than their meanest companion, and yet it has been asked why this man +has had no monument. Again, in the unfortunate expedition of poor +Kennedy (not far from their present camp), the storekeeper of the +partyof the name of Niblett, was discovered to have largely pilfered +from the stores for a considerable time previously. Who knows that, +but for the deficiency his greed caused, more of that ill-fated party +might have held out until the succour arrived, guided by the heroic +black, Jacky, who risked his own life to save that of his master, and +whose name is as worthy of being held up for honour as that of the +white man's for contempt. + +<p><i>February</i> 3.—This day was spent by the Brothers with their +black-boys in hunting for a good crossing place, or as they described +it, "doing a little water dogging." The river being two hundred +yards wide, and running rapidly, made it a difficult matter, and +after trying a number of places, it was found that as they were all +alike, deep and wide, they might as well cross opposite the camp. +This would not be without risk and danger, but the exigency of the +party made it necessary. Their flour was nearly exhausted, and they +had nothing else but the jerked meat of the beef they killed, and +what they could catch in the bush, to depend on. In this last, +however, as old hunters and bushmen, they were generally pretty +successful, supplementing and eking out their ordinary rations very +largely. The day previous their larder had been recruited by three +iguanas' eggs, a brush turkey (<i>Megapodius Tumulus</i>), and nine +turkeys' eggs. The rain came down as usual at intervals during the +day, which, added to the almost incessant rain of the four previous +days, brought the river down during the night, increasing its volume +and current so much as to make it dangerous to attempt crossing. + +<p><i>February</i> 4.—The river being too high to cross, the start for the +Settlement was postponed, the fagged horses getting the benefit of +the delay. A beast was killed in the evening. The weather clearing, +Mr. Richardson was enabled to get correct observations for the +latitude, having succeeded in putting his sextant into tolerable +adjustment. The readings gave the latitude of camp 82 to be 11 +degrees 11 minutes 39 seconds, or about 33 miles south from Cape +York. Part of the day was employed in constructing a raft to float +over the saddles, rations, etc. This was done by stretching a hide +over a frame of wood, but not without some trouble, as it was found +that the only wood light enough for the purpose, was dead nonda, and +this being scarce, had to be searched for. Before evening, however, +a raft was finished sufficiently light for the purpose. + +<p><i>February</i> 5.—The river having sunk considerably during the night, +the crossing was commenced this morning, despite the downpour of +rain, which lasted all day without a break. The stream was one +hundred and thirty yards wide, the banks fringed with scrub and +vines, and the current still running rapidly. It required therefore +strong and expert swimmers to get the horses across, the method being +as follows:—One of the party went in first with a line made fast +to the bit of the horse's bridle, and another followed, holding on to +his tail by way of rudder. Now as a horse can swim faster than a +man, and is of course heavier in the water, the leader has no easy +task even if the horse swim honestly for the opposite bank, but +should he turn back or boggle at all, man and line are alike +powerless; the use of the rudder therefore will be seen. When the +leader reaches the opposite bank, he has to scramble up nimbly, or he +may have the horse on him, and arrived there, be in readiness with +the line to assist him should he get entangled in the saplings and +vines which fringe the banks. It will be remembered that in crossing +the Batavia on the 11th January, two horses were drowned, in spite of +every care and precaution. Here, however, they were fortunate enough +to cross their four horses without accident, Mr. Scrutton, old Eulah, +and the black-boys doing good service, being all excellent swimmers. +The saddles and rations were then floated over in the raft, also +without accident, and the advanced party (the Brothers and Eulah) +camped on the north side, leaving the remainder of the party and +cattle in charge of Mr. Scrutton. Even now, Frank Jardine was +uncertain as to what stream they were on, and still leaned to the +belief that it was the Escape, his faith in the result of the +observations, having been shaken by the accident to the sextant. +They failed to assist him in his opinion, which was sorely puzzled by +the river running westward. He considered it, therefore, absolutely +necessary to find the Settlement before moving the cattle forward, +his horses being so weak, as to make it useless to travel on in +uncertainty. The necessity for reaching their journey's end was +becoming urgent, for their tea and sugar were exhausted, their flour +nearly so, and some of the party were complaining of being unwell, +and getting very weak. + +<p><i>February</i> 6.—The second start was made this morning, the Brothers +intending to find either the Settlement or the mouth of the Escape. +Their course for the first 15 miles was N.N.East, over barren white +sandy country, covered with brushwood and scrub. At 7 miles a large +deep running creek was crossed, running westward. Its south bank was +so densely covered with vine scrub, that they had to walk and cut +their way through it with their tomahawks. After crossing it, the +country suddenly changed to thickly timbered sandy ridges, some being +rocky, of course sandstone, the more elevated ones having belts of +impenetrable scrub running along their crest. At 12 miles a fine +sheet of water was passed, surrounded by sandy coarsely-grassed +ridges. At 15 miles, from a line of high ridges forming a +saddle-range, they had a view of the ocean, and could distinguish a +few small islands out to sea. It might have been seen sooner but for +the drizzling rain which fell with little intermission. The range +was of red soil, timbered with bloodwood, and stringy-bark. Two +miles further on the country improved still more, continuing from +thence into their camp, 6 miles. The course was altered from the +range to N. by E., and at 20 miles a white hill was reached, from +which they looked down on the sea about half-a-mile distant beneath +them. This was Newcastle Bay. Turning westward and skirting the +coast, they travelled 3 miles further on, and camped on a palm creek, +with very steep banks. Large flocks of the Torres Strait pigeons +flew over in the evening. Distance travelled 23 miles. + +<p><i>February</i> 7.—The good country traversed yesterday ceased at a +creek half-a-mile from the camp, on crossing which the party had to +cut their way as usual, after which the course skirting the coast lay +over a villainous country, boggy swamps, brushwood and scrub. After +travelling 7 or 8 miles their progress was arrested by a large stream +three-quarters-of-a-mile in width, running rapidly from the W.N.W. +Its banks were low and muddy, covered with a wide belt of dense +mangroves, its muddy and swollen waters carrying down quantities of +rubbish. This they correctly surmised to be the mouth of the +veritable "Escape" but Frank Jardine was again in error in supposing +it to be the same stream that they had left the cattle on. Seeing so +large a stream he naturally reverted to the idea that it had turned +on itself, and that their first exploration had stopped before +reaching the turning point. His case was dispiriting in the extreme. +The main camp was not more than 15 miles in latitude south of his +present position. The Settlement, the long-wished end of their +journey, could not be more than 20 to the North, yet his progress was +arrested by a broad and rapid river, to head the supposed bend of +which he had ineffectually travelled nearly 50 miles. His plan was +now to follow the Escape up in hopes of being able to cross at the +head of the tide, and so reach Somerset, but this, as will be seen, +was more easily planned than executed. Following up the course of +the river the way lay over a country which Alexander Jardine mentions +in his notes as "too bad to describe," pandanus swamps, vine scrubs, +and small creeks swollen by the rains to a swimmable depth, +succeeding one another along the whole stage. At the latter the +horses had always to be unpacked and their saddles taken over on the +heads of the party. Three hours were consumed in cutting their way +through the last of the vine scrubs, when they camped on the outside, +three of the horses being completely knocked up. The Brothers then +walked to the river in hopes of finding a crossing place. This +however, proved hopeless. A thick matted fringe of mangroves nearly +three miles wide intervened between them and its bank, through which +it was next to impossible to make any headway. Their supper to-night +was augmented by a lucky "find" during the day of thirteen scrub +turkeys' eggs, which, though they would scarcely have been +appreciated at an ordinary breakfast table, were very acceptable to +tired and hungry travellers existing principally on jerked beef. +Eating what yolk or white they contained, they plucked and roasted +the chicks as a "bonne-bouche." Fires had to be kept going day and +night to drive away, and protect the poor miserable horses from the +march and sand-flies by day, and mosquitoes by night. These were, in +fact, the principal cause of the poverty and debility of the poor +brutes, who could never get a moment's rest to feed or sleep. +Twenty-two miles were accomplished to-day, despite their difficulties. + +<p><i>February</i> 8.—The journey was continued to-day up the Escape, the +course of which was very crooked, but generally N.W. by N. The +horses knocked up a few miles after starting. The party were +therefore obliged to walk and drive them before them. The country +traversed was similar to that of yesterday, so that they could not +get more than a-mile-and-a-half an hour out of the poor jaded beasts. +Three times they tried to make into the river bank, but without +success, from the great width and the density of the belt of +mangroves, and the soft mud. An old black's camp was passed in which +they found heaps of shells, turtle, and shark bones. In the evening +they caught a quantity of whelks and cockles, which, with an iguana, +and three turkeys' eggs, made a good supper. + +<p><i>February</i> 9.—The course of the river to-day was even more crooked +than yesterday, the nature of the country continuing the same, save +that the swampy ground was occasionally broken by ridges of +bloodwood, and stringy-bark. From a tree on one of these they had a +fine view of Newcastle Bay, and what was supposed to be Mount +Adolphus Island, the latter about 25 miles away, and could trace the +course of the river to where it debouched, by the stretch of +mangroves. Here, therefore, they were within 20 miles of their +destination, which they were tantalised by seeing, without being able +to reach. With difficulty they drove their horses before them for 7 +miles, when they turned out and camped, as well to hunt, as again to +try and reach the river. In the first they were pretty successful, +getting some turkeys' eggs and shell-fish, but the last they were +unable to do, mud and mangroves barring their way, whilst the salt +water proved to them that they were still within the influence of the +tide, and the stream was still between three and four hundred yards +wide. Despairing of being able to find a crossing to which they +could fetch the cattle, their horses being unable to cross the river, +to continue the search for Somerset in advance, and their scanty +provision of flour being nearly exhausted, Frank Jardine, reluctantly +abandoning the idea of getting into the Settlement, determined to +return to the cattle, and with them, head the supposed bend of the +Escape. Disheartening as this was, there was nothing else to be done +in the present state of the country. Distance travelled, 7 miles +westerly. + +<p><i>February</i> 10.—Turning their backs on the mangroves and swamps of +the Escape River, the little party faced for the camp, steering +S.S.E. The first four miles was through boggy, swampy country, +through which they walked, driving their horses before them. The +remainder was over the usual iron-bark and bloodwood ridges, fairly +grassed with coarse grasses, intersected with swamps and belts of scrub, +through one of which they were three hours in forcing their way two +miles. After 11 miles of this kind of travelling they camped, the +horses completely knocked up, the men in not much better condition, +having had to drag the horses out of bogs several times, besides +cutting through the hanging vines of the scrubs. Distance 12 miles. + +<p><i>February</i> 11.—The main camp was reached to-day, after another +fatiguing journey of 11 or 12 miles, the first 6 miles similar to +that of yesterday, the remainder through heath and brushwood. It was +sundown before they reached the river, which they found much swollen. +A heavy thunder-shower of two hours' duration, put up all the creeks +bank high, one of which, at about two miles from the river, they had +to swim across. Having struck it immediately opposite the camp, they +left their jaded horses with their saddles on the north side, and +swam across themselves to the party. During their absence another of +the horses, "Pussey," had died from exhaustion. + +<p><i>February</i> 12.—The meat at the camp being all consumed, it became +necessary to halt for a couple of days, in order to kill and jerk a +beast. The flour too was now exhausted, save 10 lbs., which was +judiciously put by and reserved for an emergency. The day was spent +in crossing back the four horses, with saddles and swags. The cattle +were counted and some found missing; the Black-boys were therefore +sent in search of them. A beast was killed, cut up, and jerked, a +tedious task, from the absence of the sun. Although there were only +a few light showers towards evening, the air was damp; the meat, +therefore, had to be smoked under a covering. + +<p><i>February</i> 13.—The lost cattle were found to-day, the jerking of +the meat finished, and preparations for a final start on the morrow +completed. The unfortunate horses were in such wretched condition, +that it was found necessary to lighten the loads to the Settlement. +Four pack-saddles, two police saddles, and the two belonging to the +Brothers were therefore abandoned, with the remainder of the odds and +ends. The prospect before them was not very bright. With no +provision save jerked meat, and with knocked-up horses, they were +starting on a journey of at least 100 miles, when their destination +was not more than 30 miles away from them. they hoped to head the +bend of the river they were on (having reverted to the opinion that +it was the Escape), without knowing how far beyond the lowest point +of their first exploration this turning-point might be, or what +obstructions might be a-head of them. On the other hand, the whole +of the party were without sickness, and they had plenty of cattle to +eat. + +<p><i>February</i> 14.—A final start was made this morning from camp 82, +of dreary memory, after a good deal of trouble in packing, choosing +and rejecting what was too heavy or useless, and the other delays +attendant on the breaking up of an established camp. The river was +followed for 11 miles with the usual amount of bogging and +difficulty, in crossing the small trench-like creeks already +mentioned. In one of these they were compelled to abandon another +horse (Tabinga). The poor brute fell in trying to cross, and when +pulled out and set on his legs was too weak to stand. He had to be +left, therefore, saddle and all. Another (Pussy) having died at the +last camp, their number was now reduced to thirteen. Their loads +were reduced to the slightest possible, and consisted merely of the +jerked meat, the ammunition, and swags of the party. Distance 11 +miles. (Camp LXXXIII.) + +<p><i>February</i> 15.—A gloomy morning with light showers, 10 miles were +accomplished to-day. Three hours were consumed in crossing one of +the boggy gullies. Every horse had to be unpacked, and half of them +had to be pulled across with ropes. The pack of another horse (Lady +Scott) had to be abandoned. She was too weak to carry even the empty +saddle. The camp was pitched in the angle formed by the large creek +running into the river just below the gunyah camp of their first +trip, mentioned January 30th. (Camp LXXXIV.) + +<p><i>February</i> 16.—The Eliot was reached to-day 8 miles from the camp. +It had fallen considerably, but was still too high to allow of +crossing without taking off the packs. It was about thirty yards +wide, and running clear, about five feet deep, where the party +crossed. The camp was pitched on the main stream two miles further, +making a total of 10 miles for the day's journey. (Camp LXXXV. +Nonda.) + +<p><i>February</i> 17.—The lowest camp of the Brothers on their first trip +was passed to-day at about 6 miles. The total distance they +estimated they had travelled down the river on that occasion was 40 +to 45 miles, as it will be remembered that they went 6 or 7 miles +beyond this camp on the 1st of February. The true distance to the +turning point by Mr. Richardson's reckoning, was estimated at 35 +miles, which is probably correct. Mr. Richardson in his journal of +to-day's date says, "they told me they had travelled 20 miles North +and 30 miles West." A glance at sheet No. 14 will shew this to have +been an error; and in a foot-note at February 2nd, he states, "I +afterwards found that these distances were incorrect. The true +distances West and North respectively from the 82nd camp to the point +in our track where the Leader turned back, are about 24 miles W. and +7 N." Now, considering the tortuous course of the river, the nature +of the country, the weather, and obstacles of the creeks, 6 miles is +not a great error in westing. Mr. Richardson's own reckoning, +generally, despite his advantage over the Brothers, in having nothing +to do but follow the cattle, was not more to be depended upon, whilst +the results of his observations by the sextant were not so much so, +as he naively informs us he did not think he error in Latitude was +more than 15 miles! It appears evident therefore that the dead +reckoning of the explorers was of equal, if not greater value, as far +as the journey was concerned, than the surveyor's, the chief result +and use of whose presence in the party is, that we have been +furnished with a very excellent and interesting map of the route; but +it by no means assisted the Leader in the piloting of the Expedition, +or resolved his doubts when at fault, either at this point or on +leaving the Einasleih in search of the Lynd. The party camped at the +end of about two miles on the right bank of a broad deep creek +running in from S.W., when after turning out, some of them went +fishing, but only one small cat-fish was caught. + +<p><i>February</i> 18.—A slight rain fell during last night, but cleared +off before morning. The creek was crossed at about a mile from the +camp, cattle, horses, and men having to swim. The former took it +like water-dogs, and the latter had as usual to carry their saddles, +packs, and "traps" over on their heads. After ten miles of +travelling over poorly-grassed stringy-bark ridges, the country +resumed its old character of swamp, brushwood, and low scrubby banks, +flooded for four or five feet, the overflow filling swamps running +parallel, and about two or three hundred yards distant from the +river. This was followed during the day's march, and they were +elated with the hope that they had at length reached the much wished +for bend, the course being slightly to the eastward of north. It was +Mr. Jardine's intention to have again halted the party when they +reached this point, and once more pushed forward in search of +Somerset, but they were out of meat, and the party had started +without breakfast, there being nothing to eat. He therefore camped +at the end of 10 miles to kill a beast. there were a good many +delays during the march, chiefly to pull the exhausted horses out of +the constantly recurring bogs. Poor "Lady Scott" especially was with +great difficulty got into camp. Distance 10 miles, N. 1/2 E. (Camp +LXXXVII. Bloodwood) + +<p><i>February</i> 19.—To-day was chiefly devoted to rest, and the cutting +up, jerking, and smoking of the beef by the whites, the black-boys, +after the manner of their race, dividing it pretty equally between +sleeping and stuffing. The meat curing was as usual a slow process, +there being no salt, and a gunyah having to be made to smoke it in. +The river was here first observed to have a rise and fall in it of +about six inches. Its width was about a quarter of a mile. + +<p>The latitude of this camp (87) is 11 degrees 11 minutes 13 seconds +The latitude of camp (82) is 10 degrees 58 minutes 2 seconds +The Northing therefore equals 13 minutes 11 seconds + +<p><i>February</i> 20.—It commenced to rain at two o'clock this morning, +and continued heavily as the party started. The river again turned +to the Westward, to their great disappointment. The course was +continued along it for 9 miles, when they were brought to a +stand-still by a deep creek with boggy banks, twenty yards wide, +flowing from the South. It was evidently affected by the tide, as +the water was slightly brackish and the edge fringed by a species of +mangrove. A crossing-place was looked for without success, and the +camp was finally pitched, as the rain was pouring heavily. (Camp +LXXXVIII.) + +<p><i>February</i> 21.—This morning the Brothers, taking old Eulah with +them, swam across the creek, alligators notwithstanding, and walked +to the top of a high stringy-bark ridge on the south side. Selecting +the highest tree he could find (a bloodwood) Alexander Jardine +ascended it with Eulah, and from its top branches got a view that +finally dispelled the doubts as to their position, and the identity +of the stream they had traced down. Before him, at about 3 miles +distant lay the mouth of the river, about 2 miles wide. Its course +could without difficulty be traced from where they were till it +debouched into the Gulf waters opposite a small island, which was +easily recognized as Barn Island, whilst to the North, Endeavour +Straits, and Prince of Wales Island could be distinctly seen. It was +now perfectly plain that the river they had followed was not the +Escape. They had therefore, been deceived a second time. It +received the very appropriate name of Deception, but has since, by +the direction of his Excellency Sir George Bowen, been charted, and +is now known by the name of the Jardine. Descending from his perch, +after half-an-hour spent in taking bearings by the compass to the +different points of interest, Mr. Jardine joined his brother, who at +once determined to return to camp 87, it being impossible to cross +where they were. Re-crossing the creek, they rejoined the party, +reaching the camp at sun-set, under a heavy downpour of rain. + +<p><i>February</i> 22.—Although it was raining heavily with every +appearance of a continuance, the party started to return up the river +in excellent spirits. The Brothers were now certain that they should +have no difficulty in finding the Settlement on their next trip. +They were, however, very much puzzled as to where such a large stream +as the Escape was found to be, should rise. They now re-traced their +steps, and camped close to their last camp LXXXVII. Six miles. + +<p><i>February</i> 23.—To-day was spent in killing and jerking a beast, +and preparing for the Leader's third start in search of the +Settlement. The rain poured down heavily, causing the river to rise +very fast. Another raft similar to that made at camp 83, had to be +constructed, a work of some time, for the only wood fit for making +the frame was dry nonda, which was scarce. The rain too, very much +impeded the drying of the beef, for which, as usual, a bark gunyah +had to be erected. Everything, however, was got well forward for the +important business of crossing the next morning. + +<p><i>February</i> 24.—The horses, saddles, and rations were all crossed +in safety to-day, though not without difficulty. In swimming the +horses particular care had to be taken, for there was only one small +spot on the other side at which they could be landed. As explained +on the 5th, on the occasion of the second start, it requires a strong +swift swimmer to lead a horse across a stream, and in this the white +men, or at least, three of them, were much superior to the +black-boys, who, although all good swimmers, were much more efficient +in the service of the raft. This only illustrates the rule that most +white men can beat the aboriginal in swimming fast, whilst the latter +has superior endurance; but there is no doubt, that under the same +conditions of education and practice, the civilized white man is +superior to the savage in any physical function or exercise. The +rain poured down consistently during the whole of the day, and a cold +cutting wind drove the swimming party at intervals to the fires, +where, whilst toasting the outward, they solaced the inner man with a +decoction of Scrutton's, by courtesy called, soup, being an 'olla +podrida', or more properly "bouillon," of the bones, gristle, head, +and oddments of the lately-killed beast. This was always a stock +repast after each kill-day, and there is but little doubt but that +its "osmazome" contributed not a little, to the good health and heart +of the party. Almost every exploring party on short commons, records +some favourite cookery, some dish that their souls loved. In +McKinlay's journey, the dish most in vogue was a kind of "amorphous" +black-pudding, made of the carefully-saved blood of the bullock, +horse, or sheep, as the case might be, boiled with some fat, and +seasoned with a little condiment, which being of light carriage, can +always be saved for such high occasions. In the present instance, +the fat was always devoted to the greasing of the saddles, +pack-straps, etc., during the latter part of the journey, when +clothing was at a premium; of the explorers themselves, "more +aboriginum," who found that the protection it afforded them against +cold, wet, and mosquitoes, far outweighed any slight redolence, +which, after all, could only be offensive to anyone not equally +anointed. At night the Brothers camped on the north side of the +Deception, or Jardine, leaving the party again to await their report +and return, the cattle being in charge of Scrutton. + +<p><i>February</i> 25.—There was an early start this morning, but the +little party did not make much headway that day, for after two miles +of boggy brushwood country their progress was suddenly arrested by a +sea of water, the overflow of a large creek, the outline of which +could be traced by a fringe of dark green foliaged trees. Some +fruitless attempts were made to cross it at different points. At the +narrowest part they could find, on running it down at a spot where +the channel was hemmed in by ridges on either side, it was still +half-a-mile wide, and running very strongly in the actual channel. +They therefore had to resign themselves to wait patiently till the +flood went down, apparently not a near prospect, for the rain still +continued to drizzle unceasingly. After hunting about for some time +they were fortunate enough to find a good dry camp when turning out, +they disposed themselves to await the subsidence of the water, with +what patience they might. The next two days were spent in hunting +for the pot, and exploring for a good crossing place. In the former +they met with no success, all they were able to find being a kind of +wild grape, about the size of a small marble. They are black and +sweet, and as Alexander Jardine describes, "very good to eat, but +they take all the skin off the tongue and lips!" On the evening of +the second day they had the pleasure of seeing that the creek was +slowly going down, giving promise that they might be able to cross it +on the morrow. + +<p><i>February</i> 28.—This morning they had the satisfaction of seeing +that the creek had fallen sufficiently to enable them to cross, but +not without swimming. At the spot they chose for going over the +stream was about fifteen yards wide, but the current very rapid. The +horses were crossed in the usual manner, swimming with their saddles +on their backs, but the rations, etc., were passed over by a +different method, one which did credit to the projector. A kind of +flying suspension bridge was improvised, by which they were slung to +the other side, in a manner proving that necessity is the mother of +invention. By attaching one end of their light tent-line to the +branches of an over-hanging tree on the hither side, and the other +end to a butt on the opposite bank, the "swag" slid down by its own +gravity, and was safely crossed. Their <i>impedimenta</i> were thus +safely transported to the opposite bank, the whole process occupying +about an hour. They were well re-paid for their long patience, for +immediately on attaining the other side, the country changed into +good sound well-grassed stringy-bark ridges, which continued +throughout the whole stage, with the exception of a few broad +tea-tree gullies. They encamped at about 10 miles. Poor old Eulah +experienced to-day, what he felt was a cruel disappointment. Just +before getting into camp he espied what he supposed to be a fresh +turkey's nest (the 'Talegalla Lathami'); jumping off his horse, he +eagerly commenced rooting it up, expecting to be rewarded by a fine +haul of eggs. These, as is the habit of that bird, were deposited in +a large mound formed of sticks, earth, and leaves. His +disappointment and disgust were equal, and his language forcible and +deep, on finding that he had been anticipated—the big mound was +the abode of emptiness. The mystery was cleared up on going on a +little way, when they found a black's camp about two days old, where +the egg-chips shewed that the occupants had enjoyed Eulah's +anticipated feed, the piccaninnies probably amusing themselves +afterwards by filling up the nest to its original appearance. In the +evening, whilst Alexander Jardine, was preparing the frugal supper +(they generally ate their jerked meet raw, but on this occasion he +was cooking it for a change), the Leader and Eulah walked to the top +of a small sandy conical hill, about half-a-mile distant, when +climbing the highest tree, they could find, they were rewarded by a +fine view of Newcastle Bay, on the south-east of the bight, on which +they were now camped. They had also the great satisfaction of +finding that they had at last headed the Escape River. + +<p><i>March</i> 1.—"A nasty wet morning." The trio started early, +thinking it quite possible that they might "pull up" something or +other belonging to the Settlement before night, but they kept their +thoughts to themselves. They had had so many disappointments that +they felt that to hazard a guess even, was a mistake. After +travelling over a great deal of low scrub and brushwood, which, +however, was better than boggy ground ("to be without one or the +other," says Alexander Jardine "would have been too much to expect") +during a heavy shower of rain, about three o'clock, whilst riding +over some low sandy ridges they suddenly came on to a number of +blacks, camped on the outside of a thick scrub, at a point where it +abutted on a small creek. The travellers immediately unslung their +carbines, very dubious however as to whether they would go off (for +they were all damp,) and prepared for the customary "set-to." As +hitherto, in all these encounters, they had always without any show +of hostility on their part, been at once attacked, they were +surprised to find the blacks, who were very numerous, bolt into the +scrub, with the exception of three who stood their ground, and +holding up their empty hands shewed that they were unarmed, dancing +and shouting vociferously. Eulah was the first to detect what they +said, and reining up called out "hold on, you hearim, that one bin +yabber English." the brothers halted and listened. Sure enough they +distinctly heard the savages shouting excitedly "Alico, Franco, +Dzoco, Johnnie, Toby, tobacco, and other English words. It was now +evident that they had met with friendly natives, who were acquainted +with the Settlement, so they went forward and spoke to them. The +blacks still continued to shout their shibboleth, pointing to +Somerset, which they called "Kaieeby." After taking a rough +inventory of the camp, without, however, finding anything that could +have come from the Settlement, they started two of the most +intelligent in front of them, making them understand by signs, that +they wanted to be guided by the shortest route to Cape York. This +they had no difficulty in doing, for they were by far the most +intelligent blacks they had met with. The whole party now started +forward, the sable guides piloting them over the best ground. In +about 7 miles they arrived at a shallow salt-water creek, that +empties itself into a northern inlet of Newcastle Bay. Here they met +with a large body of unarmed blacks, who after making a great many +signs, came up and presented them with some spears and wommerahs, +which they had concealed in the mangroves, possibly as an earnest of +peace. They also brought them a villainous compound, in some +dilly-bags, a mixture of mangrove-roots and berries, pounded up into +a pulp, of a yellowish color. Although it was very disagreeable to +the taste, the travellers eat of it in token of confidence in their +hosts, or rather to make them believe that they trusted them, for +they were too well acquainted with the aboriginal nature to trust +them in reality, and kept a wary though unobserved watch. The tide +being in, and it being very late when the salt-water creek was +reached, the Brothers determined to camp with their newly-made +friends at their main camp, and accordingly followed them for about +two miles, when they again hit the salt creek. Here three large +canoes were moored to the mangroves, the largest was about 28 feet +long, and 30 inches wide, cut out of the solid butt of some large +tree, and very neatly finished. The tent was pitched, but not made +much use of, for after dark the travellers left it and camped +separately, each keeping vigilant watch all night. The natives spent +it very differently, and, whether in honor of the whites, or in +anticipation of picking their bones (it might have been either) they +held high corroboree till about midnight, keeping up a fearful din, +in which two large drums formed a prominent part. The name of this +kind of drum is "Waropa" or "Burra Burra," and it is procured in +barter or war from the Islanders of Torres Straits, who frequently +visit the continent. It is neatly made of a solid piece of wood +scooped out, in shape like an elongated dice box. One end is covered +with the skin of a snake or iguana, the other being left open. When +this instrument is played upon by a muscular and excited "nigger," a +music results which seems to please him in proportion to its +intensity; keeping time with these, and aiding with their voices, +they kept up their wild dance varying the chant with the peculiar +b-r-r-r-r-r-r-oo, of the Australian savage (a sound made by +"blubbering" his thick lips over his closed teeth,) and giving to +their outstretched knees the nervous tremor peculiar to the +corroboree. But a corroboree, like the ball of civilized life must +have an end, and at length the tired dancers sought their several +lairs, leaving the whites to watch the watery moon and lurid stars, +and listen to the dull plashing of the tide through the mangroves, +whilst waiting for daylight. + +<p><i>March</i> 2.—At daylight the party started forward, accompanied by a +strong detachment of "black guards," who were much disgusted when the +greater number of them were dismissed before they had proceeded far, +no doubt wishing and expecting to share in the "bacca" or "bissiker," +which would reward the pilots. Mr. Jardine selected the three they +had first met as guides, who turned out capital fellows. They +explained that to go straight they would have "mouro pia" much scrub, +and therefore led the way along the beach, carefully shewing the +horsmen the hardest places on the sands. In rounding one of the +rocky headlands, Eulah's horse fell with him, causing the greatest +amusement and merriment to the body-guard. To be laughed at by +Myalls was nearly too much for Eulah's equanimity, and could he have +had his own way he would probably have resented the insult. As it +was, his ire could only find vent in deeply muttered objurgations and +abuse. At about noon the party sighted the Settlement, and +involuntarily pulled up to gaze at the scattered and insignificant +buildings they had so long and ardently desired to see and struggled +to reach, hardly realizing that the goal was at last attained; when +they again moved forward theguides set up an admonitary yell, which +had the effect of bringing Mr. Jardine and their brother John to the +door. For a considerable time before the arrival of the overland +party, Mr. Jardine had not been without some uneasiness for the +success and safety of the expedition. The time for their probable +arrival had long elapsed. A report had reached him by the +"Salamander" from Rockingham Bay, that the party were on the Lynd, +unable to move forward for want of water, and that their provision +was exhausted, and finally the wet season had set in. To facilitate +their endeavours in finding the Settlement (a work of more than +ordinary difficulty, arising from the intricacy of the rivers and +scrubby nature of the country, at the apex of the Cape York +peninsula,) Mr. Jardine had cut a marked tree line for 30 miles in a +south-westerly direction, meeting a similarly marked line running +east and west from the head of the Kennedy to the west or Gulf Coast, +a distance of about 10 miles. On the latter and on either side of +the longitudinal line, trees were marked at intervals, with +instructions for their course, so that the party hitting the east and +west line would be guided to the junction of the first one leading +into the Settlement. The east and west line, it has been seen they +overran, the rapid tropical growth of the scrub having so far +obliterated it as to make it difficult to notice, or find, even if +sought for. Yet through any depression that might naturally be +induced by the delay, whatever his fears might have been for the +success of the expedition, he felt none for the safety of his sons, +well knowing and relying on their dauntless pluck, energy, and +fitness for the work. His parting injunction to them had been, that +whatever might betide, 'they should keep together'. He knew that he +would not be disobeyed, and felt firm in the faith that, should the +party by misfortune be reduced to their own two selves, with only +their tomahawks in their hands, they would make their way to him. +Thus, firmly reliant on the qualities of his boys, he waited with +patience, and his faith was well rewarded. On the morning of the 2nd +of March, Mr. Jardine being employed in some matters about the house, +during an "evendown" pour of rain, was disturbed by a loud shouting, +and looking out saw a number of blacks running up to the place. +Imagining that the Settlement was about to receive another attack, +(for the little community had already had to repulse more than one,) +he seized his gun, always in readiness for an "alerte" and rushed +out. Instead, however, of the expected enemy, he had the pleasure of +seeing his long-looked-for sons, surrounded and escorted by their +sable guides. For a long time previous, the natives who visited the +Settlement had been made to understand that Mr. Jardine expected his +sons with horses and cattle, and had been familiarized with their +names, "Franco" "Alico" as also with others such as "Somerset," "Cape +York," "Salamander," and "Toby," (Mr. Jardine's well-known retreiver) +the intention being that these should act as pass words when they met +the party, a wise precaution, which, as it has been seen, probably +prevented a collision. Thus, on nearing the Settlement the blacks +set up the shouts that had alarmed him, screaming out his name Joko, +Franco, Alicko, and such was the eagerness of each to prove that he +(smiting himself on the breast) was "Kotaiga" or friend, pointing at +the same time to the Brothers, as a witness of their truth, that it +was with some difficulty that the Father could reach his sons to +greet and welcome them. But for the horses they bestrode, even a +father's eye might have failed to distinguish them from the blacks by +whom they were surrounded. Six months of exposure to all weathers +had tanned their skins, and so reduced their wardrobe, as to make +their appearance primitive in the extreme, their heads being covered +with a cap of emu feathers, and their feet cased in green hide +mocassins. The rest of their costume was <i>a l'ecossaise</i>, their +pantaloons being reduced to the waist-bands and pockets, the legs +having for a long time been matters of remembrance only. However, +they were hearty and well, in high spirits, and in good case. During +the hubbub caused by the tumultuous demonstrativeness of the natives, +an amusing episode occurred, which is worthy of record. The +attendant of Mrs. McClintock, a fine strapping girl from the Emerald +Isle, whose good humour and light-heartedness in the discomforts of a +new Settlement had earned her the name of cheerful Ellen, hearing the +tumult outside, and seeing Mr. Jardine rush out gun in hand, imagined +also that they were about to have another attack. Seizing her +mistress in her arms, with more kindness than ceremony, she bore her +away to her own room, where, having deposited her burden, she turned +the key on her, saying, "that was no place for her whilst fighting +was going on." Nor was it until she was well assured that there had +been a false alarm that the kind-hearted wench released her mistress +from durance. + +<p>It must be left to the imagination of the reader to realize the +swelling feelings of joy and pride with which the Father grasped the +hands of his gallant sons. After a separation of more than ten +months, his boys had found their way to him at the extremity of the +Australian Continent, by a journey of over 1600 miles, whose +difficulties, hardships, dangers, and escapes, have seldom been +parallelled, and never been surpassed in the whole annals of +exploration. Had they, like poor Lichhardt, Kennedy, or Burke and +Wills, perished in the attempt, they would have been honored as +heroes, and a tablet or monument would been handed down their names +to posterity. As it was, thanks to a kind Providence, they were +living heroes, who had sturdily accomplished their work, and brought +their companions through without hurt or casualty. The modesty which +is ever the attribute of true merit, will probably cause their cheeks +to tinge in finding their exploits thus eulogized, but assuredly it +is no exaggeration of praise to say, that they have won for +themselves a lasting and honorable name in the records of Australian +Exploration. + +<h3>CHAPTER VI.</h3> + +<blockquote>Chose Site for Station—Native Method of Using Tobacco—Return +for the Cattle—The Lakes—Reach the Camp—Another Horse Dead +—The Whole Party Cross the Jardine—Raft Upset—Cargo Saved— +Deserted by Guides—Final Start for Settlement—Another Horse +Abandoned—Horses Knocked Up—Cattle Missing—Choppagynya— +Reach Vallack Point—Conclusion.</blockquote> + +<p>On the afternoon of their arrival in Somerset, the Brothers, after a +"slight" luncheon, in which Mr. Jardine's preserved vegetables +received very particular attention, manned the whale-boat belonging +to the Settlement, and pulled over the Straits to Albany Island to +get fresh horses. Two were got over, but night coming on, the +crossing of the rest was deferred until the next day. The Strait is +three-quarters-of-a-mile wide, which, with a current running upwards +of five knots an hour, makes it an exhausting swim even for a strong +horse. The next morning three more horses were crossed. The five +expedition horses which these re-placed were in a miserable +condition. Three of them had given in on the preceding day, two +miles from the township, and had to be left behind for the time. +With the fresh horses the Brothers were enabled to take a look about +them, and select a site for the formation of a cattle station. A +convenient spot was chosen at Vallack Point, about three miles from +Somerset, to which it now only remained for them to fetch up their +companions and the cattle. Two days were spent in recruiting the +horses, the explorers themselves, probably, enjoying the "dolce far +niente" and change of diet. The black guides were not forgotten, and +received their reward of biscuit and tobacco. The manner in which +they use this latter is curious, and worthy of notice. Not satisfied +with the ordinary "cutty" of the whites, they inhale it in volumes +through a bamboo cane. The effect is a profound stupefaction, which +appears to be their acme of enjoyment. On the morning of the 5th, +taking with them their younger brother, John Jardine, and their two +guides, Harricome and Monuwah, and the five fresh horses, in addition +to their own, the Brothers started to return to the cattle party, who +were anxiously awaiting their return on the banks of the flooded +Jardine. The black pilots were made to understand where the camp +was, and promised to take them by a good road. The first stage was +to the Saltwater Creek, on which they had camped with the tribe, +which they reached in about 17 miles, passing on the way, three fine +lakes, Wetura, Baronto, and "Chappagynyah," at two, four, and eight +miles from Somerset. The road was a fair one for the cattle, keeping +along the line marked by Mr. Jardine the preceding year as before +mentioned, and only presented a few light belts of scrub to go +through. They were likewise enabled to choose a better crossing of +the Saltwater Creek, where the swamps join and form a defined +channel. The last two miles were very boggy, even the fresh and +well-conditioned horses getting stuck occasionally. + +<p><i>March</i> 6.—The camp was reached in the evening of to-day, at the +end of about 22 miles, but the black pilots were of very little use, +as shortly after starting they fairly got out of their latitude, and +were obliged to resign the lead to the Brothers, who hit the river a +little before dark, nearly opposite the camp. They found it about +the same height as when first crossed, but it had been considerably +higher during their absence. It being too late to cross, the party +camped on their own side, and Messrs. Harricome and Monuwah swam over +to see the new strangers and get a supply of beef. They returned +with nearly a shoulder of a good sized steer, which entirely +disappeared before morning, the whole night being devoted to feeding. +The quantity of meat that a hungry native can consume is something +astounding, but in this case beat anything that any of the whole +party had ever seen. The natural result was a semi-torpor and a +perfectly visible distention. + +<p><i>March</i> 7.—This morning the Brothers crossed over to the camp, +when they had the satisfaction of finding, on counting the cattle, +that a number were away, and when the horses were tried, two of them +were found missing, besides one that had died during their absence, +"Lady Scott." They were immediately sent for, and the remainder of +the party employed in preparing for the crossing, and killing a +beast. A fresh raft was made with the hide capable of carrying 400 +lbs. weight. The two Somerset blacks evinced a great deal of +surprise at sight of the cattle, and expressed it by chirping and +making various curious noises with their tongues and mouths. +Accustomed chiefly to fish, herbs, and roots, the succulent beef had +charms which outweighed surprise, and another night was spent in +feasting on the "oddments" of the fresh killed beef. + +<p><i>March</i> 8.—The missing cattle and horses were brought in with the +exception of three, which prevented the party crossing to-day, +although all was now in readiness. The river was still 200 yards +wide, and running strongly, so that it was expedient to cross the +whole together. + +<p><i>March</i> 9.—The three missing cattle not having been found, the +crossing operations were commenced at mid-day. The width and +appearance of the river made it difficult to make the cattle face it, +but they were all safely crossed after a little time, with the +exception of one, which broke away, and could not be recovered. The +pack-horses were then put over, which was easily accomplished, and it +then only remained to cross the packs and baggage. The raft answered +admirably, and everything was ferried over in safety, till the last +cargo, when a little adventure occurred, which nearly cost the life +of one of the party. Cowderoy, being unable to swim, had to be taken +across holding on to the raft, and was, therefore, left to the last; +all went well with him until within 30 yards of the bank, when, +whether from trepidation, induced by visions of alligators (with +which the river indeed abounds), or from an attempt to strike out +independently, he "succeeded" in upsetting and sinking the raft, and +was with some difficulty got to the shore "quitte pour la peur." In +truth it requires some nerve for a man who can't swim to cross a wide +and rapid river. Without a confiding trust in the means adopted for +his transport, a catastrophe is not an unlikely result. The writer +has known instances of persons crossing broad rivers supported by a +spear held between two blacks, by holding on to a bullock's tail, and +even sitting on a horse's back, but in every case the success of the +attempt depends almost entirely on the coolness of the individual, +and even with this essential, he has known some fatal cases, so that +Cowderoy might congratulate himself on his safe transit. The packs, +etc., which formed the last cargo, were recovered after some time, +the distance from the shore being slight, and Cowderoy soon recovered +his accustomed good humor. By four o'clock everything had been +crossed in safety, save the four beasts before mentioned; but on +camping for the night it was found that the guides had decamped, +their unwonted high feeding, having, no doubt, induced an +indisposition to work, a result not confined to blacks alone. + +<p><i>March</i> 10.—This morning the "Cowal," or watercourse, which had +detained the Brothers on their first trip, had to be swum over, and +here poor Ginger, one of the horses, got hopelessly bogged, and +though got out and put on his legs with saplings, was too exhausted +to go on,and had to be abandoned. The distance accomplished was 11 +miles. + +<p><i>March</i> 11.—The line marked by Mr. Jardine was followed to-day. A +scrub occurred on a creek called Wommerah Creek, through which it +took two hours to drive the cattle. Only 10 miles were made, and the +camp was pitched at about 4 miles from the mouth of the creek where +the corroboree was held. Three horses were knocked up during the +day, which prevented their gotting as far as intended. + +<p><i>March</i> 12.—On counting the cattle it was found that 30 head had +been dropped in coming through the scrub at Wommerah Creek. Two of +the black-boys were sent after them, and the Brothers went out to +find a crossing-place over Ranura Creek, (their last camp in +Somerset.) Here they met the same tribe, (known as Wognie's,) and +bartered "bacca" and "bissika," against "moro wappi," or fish, with +which the camp was plentifully supplied in the evening. The cattle +were recovered all but five. The country is described as being +composed of ridges of white and red sand, intersected by swamps of +tea-tree, pandanus, and banksia, the crest of the ridges being +generally surmounted by a patch of scrub. The timber, bloodwood, +mahogany, stringy-bark, and nonda. + +<p><i>March</i> 13.—A late start was made to-day, for some of the horses +were away. The camp was formed on the banks of the lake +before-mentioned, 8 miles from Somerset, Chappagynyah, which is +described as teeming with crocodiles. tThe next day the party +reached their final resting place, probably not without some +exhiliration in feeling that their journey was over. They were met +at Baronto, by Mr. Jardine, who had ridden out from Somerset for the +purpose. The camp was established at Vallack Point, where the +wearied horses and cattle at length found rest, whilst their drivers +were able to indulge in the unwonted luxuries of regular feeding and +uninterrupted sleep: luxuries which few but those who have +experienced hunger and broken rest can fully appreciate. They had +been on the road for 5 months, travelled over 1600 miles, the last +250 of which were, as we have seen, performed on foot, and by most of +the party barefooted, whilst for the last four weeks their food had +consisted chiefly of jerked veal, fish without salt, and the wild +fruits and herbs they might find in the bush. In addition to the +distance travelled over by the whole party, and over which the cattle +were driven, the Brothers traversed more than 1200 miles in their +exploratory trips ahead, looking for the lost horses, etc. Alexander +Jardine's journey down the Einasleih alone amounted to little less +than 300. It may be imagined, therefore, that the return to the +habits and fare of civilized life must have been an agreeable change. + +<p>After an interval employed by the Brothers in forming a station at +Vallack Point, they returned with their father to Brisbane, in H.M.S. +Salamander, leaving their younger brother, John, in charge of the +newly-formed station, where the cattle were doing well. Mr. +Richardson left in the same vessel, and on arriving in Brisbane +immediately set to work to chart the route. Having every facility at +hand in the office of the Surveyor-General, the error of the river +Lynd was rectified, and a map compiled, shewing the route, from which +that now presented to the reader has been reduced. A glance at it +will shew that a large tract of unexplored country exists between the +track of the Jardines and that of Kennedy, which affords ample scope +for, and may possibly repay future explorations. Already stock is on +the road to occupy country on the lower Einasleih, and it is not +improbable that before long the rich valley of the Archer will add +its share to the pastoral wealth of Queensland. + +<h5>FINIS.</h5> + +<a name="pic2"></a> +<center> +<img alt="" src="images/jardine-scene.jpg"> +<p><b>SOMERSET CAPE YORK. Lithograph.</b></p> +</center> + +<h3>APPENDIX</h3> + +<h4>THE MELALEUCA (<i>Tea-tree Gum M. Leucodendron.</i>)</h4> + +<p>This tree, of which there are several varieties, is very common to +Northern Australia; the drooping kind (<i>Melaleuca Leucodendron</i>), +occupying the beds and margins of the rivers, where its long pendant +branches weeps the stream, as does the graceful willow of Europe. +Its bark is in thin paper-like layers, whilst its leaves are like +that of the gum, but thinner and straighter. It is remarkable for +containing an extraordinary quantity of brackish water, which pours +out in a torrent, when the bark is cut through, to the extent of from +a quart to a gallon. Another variety is found chiefly in flat sandy +country and shallow swamps. It is much smaller than that of the +rivers, and the leaves broader, stiff, and upright, its blossoms +nearly the same. It is indifferently called weeping gum, tea-tree +gum, and tea-tree, although it is in no way allied to the latter. It +is with the upright kind that the arid levels of the Staaten are +chiefly timbered. + +<h4>GARRAWAN.</h4> + +<p>This scrub, one of the numerous family of accacia, which together +with the pandanus, gave the travellers so much annoyance on their +journey, occupies a large extent of country about the Richardson +range, from the Batavia to Cape York. It much resembles, and is +probably identical with that which grows in the neighbourhood of +Sydney, to the appearance of which, indeed, that part of the +Peninsula closely resembles. + +<h4>FLOCK PIGEON OF THE GULF (<i>Phaps Histrionica.</i>)</h4> + +<p>These beautiful pigeons which are alluded to by Leichhardt, are at +certain seasons found in immense flocks in the plain country about +the Gulf of Carpentaria. Their range is wide, as in 1846 they +appeared in flocks of countless multitudes on the Murrimbidgee River, +N.S.W., probably driven from their usual regions by drought. They +are described and figured in Mr. Gould's great work on the Australian +birds. + +<h4>THE EINASLEIH.</h4> + +<p>This river was erroneously supposed by its first settlers to be the +Lynd of Leichhardt. That such was not the case, was proved by +Alexander Jardine, who traced it down for 180 miles from Carpentaria +Downs, when he turned back, within about a day's stage of its +junction with the Gilbert, fully satisfied that it could not be the +Lynd. Since then it has, I believe, been traced into the Gilbert, +and thence to the Gulf. Its importance would lead to the supposition +that it was the principal branch of the Gilbert. There is an +excellent cattle country on the lower part, as described in the text +which has probably ere this been occupied by our pioneers. + +<h4>THE NONDA (<i>Parinarium Nonda. F. Mueller.</i>)</h4> + +<p>This tree so named by Leichhardt's black-boys (described in Bentham's +<i>Flora Australiensis</i>), is very abundant north of the Einasleih, +which is possibly the extreme latitude of its zone south. It formed +an important accession to the food of the party, and it is highly +probable that their good health may be attributable to the quantity +of fruit, of which this was the principal, which they were able to +procure, there being no case of scurvy during the journey, a +distemper frequently engendering in settled districts, when there is +no possibility of varying the diet with vegetables. The foliage of +the tree is described as of a bright green, the fruit very abundant, +and much eaten by the natives. It is of about the size and +appearance of a yellow egg plum, and in taste like a mealy potatoe, +with, however, a trace of that astringency so common to Australian +wild fruits. The wood is well adapted for building purposes. + +<h4>BURDEKIN DUCK (<i>Tadorna Raja</i>).</h4> + +<p>This beautiful species of shelldrake, though not numerous, has a wide +range, extending from the richmond river to Cape York. It frequents +the more open flats at the mouths of rivers and creeks. + +<h4>THE NATIVE BEE.</h4> + +<p>This little insect (called Wirotheree in the Wellington dialect), the +invasion of whose hoards so frequently added to the store of the +travellers, and no doubt assisted largely in maintaining their +health, is very different from the European bee, being in size and +appearance like the common house-fly. It deposits its honey in trees +and logs, without any regular comb, as in the case of the former. +These deposits are familiarly known in the colony as "sugar bags," +(sugar bag meaning, aboriginice, anything sweet), and require some +experience and proficiency to detect and secure the aperture by which +the bees enter the trees, being undistinguishable to an unpractised +eye. The quantity of honey is sometimes very large, amounting to +several quarts. Enough was found on one occasion to more than +satisfy the whole party. Its flavor differs from that of European +honey almost as much as the bee does in appearance, being more +aromatic than the latter: it is also less crystalline. As the +celebrated "Narbonne honey" derives its excellence from the bees +feeding on the wild thyme of the south of France, so does the +Australian honey derive its superior flavour from the aromatic +flowers and shrubs on which the Wirotheree feeds, and which makes it +preferred by many to the European. + +<h4>THE APPLE-GUM (<i>Angophora?</i>)</h4> + +<p>I have been at some pains to discover to what species this tree +belongs, but further than that it is one of the almost universal +family of the Eucalypti, have not been able to identify it. As +mentioned in the text, it was found very valuable for forging +purposes by the Brothers, who were able to bring their horse-shoes +almost to a white heat by using it. It is like box in appearance, +and very hard. + +<h4>TERRY'S BREECH-LOADERS.</h4> + +<p>This formidable weapon can hardly receive too high a commendation, +and to its telling efficiency is probably attributable the absence of +any casualty to the party in their many encounters with the savages. +Not only for its long range is it valuable, but for its superior +certainty in damp or wet weather, its charge remaining uninjured +after days and weeks of interval, and even after immersion in water, +making it available when an ordinary piece would be useless. The +effect of the conical bullet too is much more sure and complete, +which, when arms <i>must</i> be resorted to, is of great importance. + +<h4>THE MARAMIE.</h4> + +<p>This shell-fish is to be found in almost all the Australian rivers +and lagoons. It is in size and appearance very much like the little +cray-fish or "Ecrevisses" which usually garnish the "Vol-au-vent" of +Parisian cookery, and of very delicate flavor. + +<h4>SPINIGEX, Spear Grass, Needle Grass, or "Saucy Jack" (<i>Triodia Irritans.</i>)</h4> + +<p>This grass, so well known to all Australian travellers, is a certain +indication of a sandy sterile country. The spinifex found in the +Mally scrubs of the south attains a great size, generally assuming +the appearance of a large tuft or bush from one to two feet in +diameter, and twelve to eighteen inches high. When old, its sharp +points, like those of so many immense darning needles set on end at +different angles, are especially annoying to horses, who never touch +it as food, except when forced by starvation. In Northern Queensland +the present species is found abundantly from Peak Downs to Cape York. + +<h4>FIVE CORNERS (<i>Stypelia?</i>)</h4> + +<p>This fruit is well known and very common in the neighbourhood of +Sydney, and was found in the scrubby region about the Richardson +Range, which, as before mentioned, is of similar character to that +description of country. It does not, so far as I am aware, exist in +any other part of Queensland. + +<h4>THE NATIVE PLUM (<i>Owenia.</i>)</h4> + +<p>This tree, of which there are several species, (<i>Owenia Cerasifera</i> +and <i>Owenia Vanessa</i> being most common in Queensland), is found along +the whole of the east coast, as far south as the Burnett, and is one +of the handsomest of Australian forest trees. Its purple fruit has a +pleasant acid flavor, and is probably a good anti-scorbutic. It is +best eaten after having been buried in the ground for a few days, as +is the custom of the natives. The stone is peculiar, having much the +shape of a fluted pudding basin. The timber is handsomely grained +and is of durable quality. + +<p>On the subjects of the fruits, edible plants, and roots of +Queensland, Mr. Anthelme Thozet, of Rockhampton, whose name is well +and deservedly known to Botanists, has been at great pains to prepare +for the approaching Exhibition at Paris, a classified table of all +that are known as consumed by the natives raw and prepared, and to +his enthusiastic attention to the subject, we are indebted for the +possession of a large and important list, a knowledge of which would +enable travellers in the wilds of the colony to support themselves +from their natural productions alone, in cases where their provision +was exhausted. + +<h4>THE CALAMUS (<i>Calamus Australis.</i>)</h4> + +<p>This plant belongs to a genuis of palms, the different species of +which yield the rattan canes of commerce. Its form in the scrubs of +the Cape York Peninsula is long and creeping, forming a net work of +vines very formidable to progress. + +<h4>THE PITCHER PLANT (<i>Nepenthes Kennedyana.</i>)</h4> + +<p>This interesting plant was first noticed to the north of the Batavia +River, and is common to the swamps of the peninsula. It has been +described and named in honor of the unfortunate Kennedy, who first +noticed it. + +<h4>THE FERGUSON OR STAATEN.</h4> + +<p>This stream, whose arid banks Mr. Jardine was forced to trace to the +sea, in consequence of the sterility and waterless character of the +levels to the northward, is neverthless of some importance. Like +most of the northern rivers, it is a torrent stream, whose bed is +insufficient to carry off its waters during the flooded season, +causing the formation of lagoons, back-waters, and ana-branches, and +yet in the dry months, containing only a thread of water trickling +along a waste of sand, sometimes three or four hundred yards wide, +and at intervals loosing itself and running under the surface. +Should the northern branch which was seen to join amongst the +ana-branches near its debouchure prove to be the larger stream, that +followed by the party might still retain the name of "the Ferguson," +given to it by the Brothers, in honor of the governor of Queensland. +It receives Cockburn Creek, one of importance, which, just before +joining it, receives the waters of another large creek from the +south, which was supposed to be Byerley Creek, but this as mentioned +in the text, is unlikely, for when the Brothers were in quest of the +Lynd (which they never reached at all) they left Byerley Creek +trending to the south, at a point considerably to the west of the +longitude of that influence. It is more probable, therefore, that +Byerley Creek is a tributary of either the Einasleih or Gilbert, or +that it is an independant stream altogether, running into the Gulf +between the Gilbert and Staaten rivers. + +<p>It appears unlikely also that any practicable route for stock will be +discovered between the coast which Mr. Jardine skirted, and the heads +of the rivers Staaten, Lynd, Mitchell, and Batavia. The interval +between Kennedy's track and that of the Brothers has yet to be +explored, when the best line will probably be found nearer to the +former than the latter, for the country between the Staaten and +Mitchell near their sources has been proven to be a barren and +waterless waste, the good country only commencing beyond the +Mitchell, and forming the valley of the Archer, but terminating about +the Coen. + +<h4>FATE OF THE MULE.</h4> + +<p>The fate of the unfortunate mule, whose loss was amongst the most +severely felt of the journey, has come to light in rather an +interesting manner. In a late letter from Cape York, Mr. Frank +Jardine mentions that some natives had visited the Settlement at +Somerset, amongst whom were seen some of the articles carried in the +mule's pack bags. On questioning them he found that they were +familiar with all the incidents of the journey, many of which they +described minutely. The mule had been found dead, having shared the +fate of Lucifer and Deceiver, and perished from thirst, and his packs +of course ransacked. They had watched the formation of the Cache, +when the party abandoned the heaviest articles of the equipment, and +in like manner ransacked it. These blacks must have travelled nearly +500 miles, for the Staaten is nearly 450 miles in a straight line +from Somerset, and were probably amongst those who dogged the steps +of the party so perseveringly to within 100 miles of Cape York, +frequently attacking it as described. From their accounts it appears +that the expedition owed much of its safety to their horses, of which +the blacks stood in great dread. They described minutely the +disasters of the poison camp on the Batavia, particularising the fact +of Frank Jardine having shot one of the poisoned horses, his +favourite, with his revolver, their start on foot, and other things. + From this is would appear that they closely watched and hung on to +the steps of the party, though only occasionally daring to attack +them; and proves that but for the unceasing and untiring vigilence of +the Brothers, and their prompt action when attacked, the party would +in all probability have been destroyed piece meal. The utter +faithlessness, treachery, and savage nature of the northern natives +is shown by their having twice attempted to surprise the settlement +whilst Mr. Jardine, senior, was resident there, although they had +been treated with every kindness from the first. In these encounters +two of the marines were wounded, one of whom has since died from the +effects, whilst others had narrow escapes, John Jardine, junr. having +had a four-pronged spear whistle within two inches of his neck. +Since then they have not ceased to molest the cattle, and in an +encounter they wounded Mr. Scrutton. They have utilized their +intercourse with the whites so far as to improve the quality of their +spears by tipping them with iron, a piece of fencing wire, 18 inches +long, having been found on one taken from them on a late occasion. +In his last letter Frank Jardine mentions an encounter with a +"friendly" native detected in the act of spearing cattle, in which he +had a narrow escape of losing his life, and states that, despite +their professions of friendship, they are always on the watch for +mischief. It is evident therefore, that no terms can safely be held +with a race who know no law but their own cowardly impulse of evil, +and that an active and watchful force of bushmen well acquainted with +savage warfare is necessary to secure the safety of the young +settlement. For a description of the habits and the character of the +Australian and Papuan races, which people the Peninsula and the +adjacent islands of Torres Straits, the reader is referred to the +interesting narrative of the voyage of the Rattlesnake, by Mr. John +McGillivray, in which the subject is ably and exhaustively treated, +and which leaves but little to add by succeeding writers. + +<h4>THE MIDAMO.</h4> + +<p>The "villanous compound, a mixture of mangrove roots and berries," +which was presented to the explorers by the friendly natives as a +peace-offering on first meeting them near Somerset, was probably what +is described as the "Midamo" in Mr. Anthelme Thozets' valuable +pamphlet already alluded to above on "the roots, tubers, bulbs, and +fruits used as vegetable food by the aboriginals of Northern +Queensland." The midamo is made by baking the root of the common +mangrove (<i>Avicennia Tomentosa</i>), which is called Egaie by the tribes +of Cleveland Bay, and Tagon-Tagon by those of Rockhampton. Its +preparation is described at page 13. + +<hr width="50%" align="center"> + +<h4>SOMERSET.</h4> + +<p>A description of the settlement at Port Albany, Cape York, at the +time of the arrival of the Brothers has been carefully drawn up in +the shape of a report to the Colonial Secretary of Queenslandby Mr. +Jardine. It is so full and interesting that I cannot do better than +publish it in extenso. It first appeared in the <i>Queensland Daily +Guardian</i> of 24th June, 1865. A letter from Mr. Jardine to Sir +George Bowen, reporting the arrival of the sons, and epitomising the +events of the journey, together with the report of Dr. Haran, R.N., +Surgeon in charge of the detachment of Royal Marines, on the climate +of Cape York, showing its great salubrity, are also added:— + +<blockquote><p>PORT ALBANY. + +<p>Somerset, March 1st, 1865. + +<p>Sir,—My former reports to you having been, to a certain extent, +necessarily taken up with matters of detail in reference to the +formation of the new settlement of Somerset, and that object being +now in such a state of completion as to enable me to say that it is +fairly established, so far as the comfort and safety of the present +residents are concerned, I now do myself the honor to lay before you +the result of such general observations as I have been able to make +on what may be termed general matters of interest. + +<p>2. The portion of the country to which my observations will +particularly apply is that which, I think, may correctly be termed +the "York Peninsula proper," and comprises the land lying to the +northward of a line drawn from the estuary of the Kennedy River, at +the head of Newcastle Bay, to the opposite or north-west coast. The +general course of the Kennedy River runs in this line, and from the +head of the tideway to the north-west coast the breadth of land does +not exceed six miles. The mouth of the river falling into the sea a +short distance to the southward of Barn Island will be nearly met by +the western extremity of this line. + +<p>3. The land on the neck thus formed presents singular features. +There is no defined or visible water shed; a succession of low +irregular ridges, divided by swampy flats, extends from coast to +coast, and the sources of the streams running into either overlap in +a most puzzling manner. The large ant-hills which are spread over +the whole of this country may be taken as sure indicators of the +nature of the soils; on the ridges a reddish sandy loam, intermixed +with iron-stone gravel, prevails; on the flats a thin layer of +decomposed vegetable matter overlays a white sand, bearing +<i>Melaleuca</i> and <i>Pandanus</i>, with a heavy undergrowth of a plant much +resembling tall heath. Nearly every flat has its stream of clear +water; the elegant "pitcher" plant grows abundantly on the margins. +The timber is poor and stunted, chiefly bloodwood and 'grevillea'; +and the grass is coarse and wiry. + +<p>4. Leaving this neck of barren and uninteresting country, the land +to the northward rises, and a distinct division or spine is formed, +ending in Cape York. From it, on either side, spurs run down to the +coast, frequently ending in abrupt precipices overhanging the sea; in +other places gradually declining to the narrow belt of flat land +which occasionally borders the shore. The formation is, I may say, +entirely sandstone, overlaid in many places by a layer of lava-like +ironstone. Porphyry occurs occasionally in large masses, split and +standing erect in large columns, at a distance resembling basalt. +The sandstone is of the coarsest quality, almost a conglomerate, and +is soft and friable; exposure to the air might probably harden it if +quarried, when it would be available for rough building. The ridges, +with very few exceptions, are topped with large blocks of ferruginous +sandstone, irregularly cast about, and are covered with a thick +scrub, laced and woven together with a variety of vines and climbers, +while the small valleys intervening bear a strong growth of tall +grass, through which numerous creeping plants twine in all +directions, some of them bearing beautiful flowers. Among them I may +particularise two species of 'Ipomea', which I believe to be +undescribed, and a vine-like plant, bearing clusters of fruit much +resembling in appearance black Hambro Grapes, wholesome and pleasant +to the taste. The scrubs are formed of an immense variety of trees +and shrubs, far too numerous for me toname, were I able to do so. +Some of them have fine foliage, and bear handsome flowers and +agreeably tasted fruit, and would form most ornamental additions to +our southern gardens and pleasure grounds. Several species of the +numerous climbing plants produce a fine and strong fibre, from which +the natives make their fishing lines. Some fine varieties of palm +are found on the moister lands near the creeks, two especially +elegant, a <i>Seaforthia</i> and a <i>Caryota</i>. A wild banana, with small +but good fruit, is also found in such localities. On the open +grounds the bloodwood, Moreton Bay ash, and a strong growing acacia +are the principal trees. Timber for building is scarce, and of very +indifferent quality. The iron-bark and pine are unknown here. + +<p>5. The soil on these grounds is a reddish loam, more or less sandy, +and thinly covered with a coarse ironstone gravel. Much of the +ironstone has a strong magnetic property—so much so as to suspend +a needle; and it was found a great inconvenience by Mr. Surveyor +Wilson, from its action on the instruments. As the land descends, +the soil becomes more sandy. Near the creek patches with a +considerable mixture of vegetable loam are found, which would be +suitable for the growth of vegetables, bananas, etc. The grass is +generally long and coarse, and soon after the rainy season ceases +becomes, under the influence of the strong south-east winds, withered +and dry. Horses and cattle keep their condition fairly, but sheep do +not thrive; the country is quite unsuited to them. Goats may be kept +with advantage; and pigs find an abundant supply of food in the +scrubs and swamps. + +<p>6. In the Zoology of the district, the careful researches of Mr. +M'Gillivray—the naturalist attached to H.M.'s surveying ship +Rattlesnake—have left little room for the discovery of many +positive novelties. I have, however, been able to note many +interesting facts in the economy and habits of the birds, especially +such as relate to their migration. Several of the species found here +are season visitors of New South Wales, and it is interesting to +compare the times of their arrival and departure in this place with +those in the southern colony. + +<p>7. The animals afford small variety. The dingo, or native dog, four +species of the smaller kangaroos, and two other marsupials are found. +One, an elegant little squirrel-like opossum, striped lengthways with +black and white, I believe to be new. + +<p>8. The birds are more plentiful. My collection comprises more than +one hundred species of land birds, many of them remarkable for beauty +of plumage, and peculiarity of form, structure, and habit. Among +them the most remarkable are the great black macaw, (<i>Microglossus +Atterrimus</i>) the magnificent rifle bird, (<i>Ptiloris Magnifica</i>) and +the rare and beautiful wood kingfisher, (<i>Tan Ts-ptera Sylvia</i>). The +latter first made its appearance here on the 30th of November last. +On the afternoon and night of the 28th and the 29th of that month +there was a heavy storm of rain, with wind from the north-east, and +the next morning the bush along the shore was ringing with the cries +of the new arrivals. To my constant enquiries of the blacks for this +bird, I was always told by them that when the wind and rain came from +the north-west the birds would come, and their prediction was +verified to the letter. They also say the birds come from "Dowdui" +(New Guinea). I think this probable, as several of the birds +described by the French naturalist, M. Lesson, as found by him in New +Guinea have also appeared here for the breeding season. The +<i>Megapodius Tumulus</i> is also worthy of mention, on account of the +surprising structure of its nest. The mound resembles, and is +composed of the same materials as that of the brush turkey +(<i>Talegulla</i>), but is very much larger in size. Some that I have +measured are upwards of thirty (30) feet in diameter at the base, and +rise at the natural angle to a height of fifteen (15) feet or more. +It is wonderful how birds so comparitively diminutive can accumulate +so large a pile. These birds live in pairs, and several pairs use +the same mound. The eggs are deposited at a depth of from one to +three feet; the heat at that depth is very great, more than the hand +can bear for any length of time. I cannot say whether the young, +when released from the mounds, are tended by the parents; they, +however, return and roost in the mounds at night. The flesh of the +<i>Megapodius</i> is dark and flavorless, being a mass of hard muscle and +sinew. birds, which may be called game, are not numerous. The brush +turkey (<i>Talegalla</i>), the <i>Megapodius</i>, several species of pigeon, +with a few ducks and quail, comprise the whole. + +<p>9.—Fish are in abundance, and in great varieties; some of them of +strange form and singular brilliancy of coloring. The grey mullet, +the bream—a fish much resembling in general appearance the English +pike—and several others, are excellent eating. + +<p>10.—Three species of turtle are plentiful during the season, that +is, the period when they approach the shores to deposit their eggs, +the green, the hawksbill, and another species, which grow to a much +larger size than either of the above. The natives take large numbers +of the former; indeed, from the month of November till February +turtle forms their principal food. The green turtle are taken in the +water by the blacks, who display great address in "turning" them; +they are approached when asleep on the surface; the black slips +gently from his canoe and disappears under water, and rising beneath +the animal, by a sudden effort turns it on its back, and by a strong +wrench to the fore flipper disables it from swimming. The fisherman +is assisted by his companions in the canoe, and a line is secured to +the turtle. This is hazardous sport, and deep wounds are frequently +inflicted by the sharp edges of the shells, which in the female +turtle are very sharp. A singular mode of taking the hawksbill +turtle is followed by the natives here. This custom, though said to +be known so long back as the time of the discovery of America by +Columbus, is so strangely interesting that I will give a short +account of it, as I have seen it practised. A species of sucking +fish (<i>Remora</i>) is used. On the occasion to which I allude two of +these were caught by the blacks in the small pools in a coral reef, +care being taken 'not to injure them'. They were laid in the bottom +of the canoe, and covered over with wet sea weed—a strong fishing +line having been previously fastened to the tail of each. Four men +went in the canoe; one steering with a paddle in the stern, one +paddling on either side, and one in the fore-part looking out for the +turtle and attending to the fishing lines, while I sat on a sort of +stage fixed midship supported by the outrigger poles. The day was +very calm and warm, and the canoe was allowed to drift with the +current, which runs very strong on these shores. a small turtle was +seen, and the sucking fish was put into the water. At first it swam +lazily about, apparently recovering the strength which it had lost by +removal from its native element; but presently it swam slowly in the +direction of the turtle till out of sight; in a very short time the +line was rapidly carried out, there was a jerk, and the turtle was +fast. The line was handled gently for two or three minutes, the +steersman causing the canoe to follow the course of the turtle with +great dexterity. It was soon exhausted and hauled up to the canoe. +It was a small turtle, weighing a little under forty pounds (40 +lbs.), but the sucking fish adhered so tenaciously to it as to raise +it from the ground when held up by the tail, and this some time after +being taken out of the water. A strong breeze coming on, the canoe +had to seek the shore without any more sport. I have seen turtle +weighing more than one hundred (100) pounds, which had been taken in +the manner described. Though large numbers of the hawksbill turtles +are taken by the Cape York natives, it is very difficult to procure +the shell from them; they are either too lazy to save it, or if they +do so, it is bartered to the Islanders of Torres' Straits, who use it +for making masks and other ornaments. + +<p>11. Although there is a considerable variety of reptiles, snakes do +not appear to be very numerous. The common brown snake and +death-adder are found; carpet snakes (a kind of 'boa'), appear to be +the most common, and grow to a large size. They have been very +troublesome by killing our poultry at night. They seem to be +bloodthirsty creatures, frequently killing much larger animals than +they can possibly swallow, and are not satisfied with one victim at a +time. One which was killed in my fowl-house had three half grown +chickens compressed in its folds and held one in its jaws. A short +time since I was roused in the middle of the night by the piteous +cries of a young kangaroo dog, and on running out found it rolling on +the ground in the coils of a large carpet snake. The dog was +severely bitten in the loin, but in the morning was quite well, +proving that the bite of this reptile is innocuous. This snake +measured nearly twelve feet in length. + +<p>12. Crocodiles are found in numbers in the Kennedy River and a +lagoon, which has communication with its estuary. They are also seen +occasionally in the bays in Albany Passage. + +<p>13. Of the aborigines of Cape York I can say little more than has +already been so often repeated in descriptions of the natives of +other parts of the Australian continent. The only distinction that I +can perceive, is that they appear to be in a lower state of +degradation, mentally and physically, than any of the Australian +aboriginal tribes which I have seen. Tall well-made men are +occasionally seen; but these almost invariably show decided traces of +a Papuan or new Guinea origin, being easly distinguished by the +"thrum" like appearance of the hair, which is of a somewhat reddish +tinge, occasioned no doubt by constant exposure to the sun and +weather. The color of their skin is also much lighter, in some +individuals approaching almost to a copper color. The true +Australian aborigines are perfectly black, with generally woolly +heads of hair; I have however, observed some with straight hair and +features prominent, and of a strong Jewish cast. The body is marked +on each shoulder with a shield-like device, and on each breast is +generally a mark in shape of a heart, very neatly executed. The +large cicatrices which appear on the bodies of the tribes of Southern +Australia are not used here; nor is a front tooth taken out at the +age of puberty. The <i>septum</i> of the nose is pierced, and the +crescent-shaped tooth, of the dugong is worn in it on state +occasions; large holes are also made in the ears, and a piece of wood +as large as a bottle cork, and whitened with pipe clay, is inserted +in them. A practise of cutting the hair off very close is followed +by both sexes, seemingly once a year, and wigs are made of the hair. +These are decorated with feathers, and worn at the <i>corrobories</i> or +gatherings. The women hold, if possible, a more degraded position +than that generally assigned to them among the Australian aborigines. +They are indeed wretched creatures. The only covering worn by them +is a narrow belt of twisted grass, with a fringe of strips of palm +leaves in front. the men go entirley naked. The aborigines make no +huts. In the wet weather a rude screen of leafy boughs, with palm +leaves—if any happen to grow in the neighbourhood—is set up as +a shelter. + +<p>14. The arms used by these natives are few and simple. Four sorts +of spears, made from the suckers of a very light wood tree with large +pith, headed with hard wood and generally topped with bone so as to +form a point or barb, are the most common. The end of the tail of a +species of ray fish is sometimes used as a point. It is serrated and +brittle, and on entering any object breaks short off. It is said to +be poisonous, but I do not believe such to be the case, as one of the +marines stationed here was speared in the shoulder with one of these +spears, and no poisonous effect was produced. The point which broke +short off, however, remained in the wound, and could not be extracted +for many months. The spear most commonly in use, and the most +effective, has merely a head of very hard wood, from a species of +acacia, scraped to a very fine sharp point. These are the only +spears which can be thrown with any precision to a distance—they +are sent with considerable force. I extracted two from the thigh of +one of my horses; the animal had another in the shoulder, which had +entered to a depth of five and a half inches. All spears are thrown +with the 'wommera', or throwing stick. A rudely made stone tomahawk +is in use among the Cape York natives, but it is now nearly +surperseded by iron axes obtained from the Europeans. I have seen no +other weapons among them; the boomerang and nulla-nulla (or club) are +not known. + +<p>15. The greatest ingenuity which the natives display is in the +construction and balancing of their canoes. These are formed from +the trunk of the cotton tree (<i>Cochlospermum</i>) hollowed out. The +wood is soft and spongy, and becomes very light when dry. The canoes +are sometimes more than fifty feet in length, and are each capable of +containing twelve or fifteen natives. The hull is balanced and +steadied in the water by two outrigger poles, laid athwart, having a +float of light wood fastened across them at each end—so that it is +impossible for them to upset. A stage is formed on the canoe where +the outriggers cross, on which is carried the fishing gear, and, +invariably, also fire. The canoes are propelled by short paddles, or +a sail of palm-leaf matting when the wind is fair. Considerable +nicety is also shown in the making of fishing lines and hooks. The +former are made from the fibres of a species of climber very neatly +twisted. The fish-hooks are made of tortoise-shell, or nails +procured from wreck timber. They are without barbs, and our +fish-hooks are eagerly sought for in place of them. + +<p>16. The food of the natives consists chiefly of fish, and, in the +season, turtle, with roots and fruits. These latter and shell-fish +it is the business of the females to collect and prepare. They may, +however, be truly said to be omnivorous, for nothing comes amiss to +them, and the quantity they can consume is almost incredible. I have +seen them luxuriating on the half putrid liver of a large shark cast +up on the beach, the little black children scooping up the filthy +oil, and discussing it with apparently the greatest gusto. + +<p>17. These remarks apply to the four tribes which inhabit the +territory within the limits mentioned at the commencement of this +report—viz., the peninsula to the northward of the Kennedy River. +These four tribes are not distinguishable from each other in any +distinct peculiarity that I can perceive. They keep each to their +own territory, except on the occasion of a grand "corroborie," when +the whole assemble. They are at present on terms of peace nominally. +Should a safe opportunity of cutting off a straggler offer, I have no +doubt it would be taken advantage of. They are cowardly and +treacherous in the extreme. The "Gudang" tribe, claiming the land +from Cape York to Fly Point, at the entrance of Albany Pass, is small +in numbers, having, I fancy, been seriously thinned by their +neighbours, the "Kororegas," from the Prince of Wales' Island, in +Torres' Straits, who frequently come down upon them. Paida, Mr. +M'Gillivray's <i>kotaiga</i> (friend), was not long since killed by them. +The "Goomkoding" tribe, who live on the north-western shore, I have +seen little of. They and the "Gudang" seem to hold most +communication with the islanders of Torres' Straits, the +intermixture of the races being evident. "Kororega" words are used +by both these tribes, and the bow and arrow are sometimes seen among +them, having been procured from the island. The "Yadaigan" tribe +inhabit the south side of Newcastle Bay and the Kennedy River; the +"Undooyamo," the north side. These two tribes are more numerous than +the two first-mentioned, and appear to be of a more independant race +than the others, and gave us much trouble on our first settlement, by +continual thefts and otherwise. The tract of country which they +inhabit is nearly covered with the densest scrub and with swamp, into +which they took refuge with their booty as soon as any depredation +was committed, so as to render it next to impossible for us to pursue +them. These four tribes together do not number in all more than 250 +to 300 men. + +<p>18. All these people are much addicted to smoking. Tobacco is used +by them in preference when it can be got. Before its introduction, +or when it was not procurable from Europeans, the leaves of a large +spreading tree, a species of 'Eugenia', was, and is still used. +These leaves must possess some strong deleterious or narcotic +property. I was for some time puzzled to assign a cause for so many +of the natives being scarred by burns. Nearly every one shows some +marks of burning, and some of them are crippled and disfigured by +fire in a frightful manner. They smoke to such excess as to become +quite insensible, and in that state they fall into their camp-fires, +and receive the injuries mentioned. The pipe used is a singular +instrument for the purpose. It is a hollow bamboo about 2 1/2 feet +long, and as thick as a quart bottle; one of the smoking party fills +this in turn with smoke from a funnel-shaped bowl, in which the +tobacco is placed by blowing it through a hole at one end of the +tube. When filled it is handed to some one who inhales and swallows +as much of the smoke as he can, passing the pipe on to his neighbour. +I have seen a smoker so much affected by one dose as to lie helpless +for some minutes afterwards. + +<p>19. Thus much for the general appearance and habits of the Cape +York natives. A very accurate vocabulary of their language has been +published by Mr. M'Gillivary in his account of the voyage of H.M.S. +Rattlesnake. Of their superstitions I am unable to speak with +certainty. That they have no belief in the existence of a Supreme +Being is, I think, positive. They are, like all the Australian +tribes, averse to travelling about at night if dark; this, I believe, +chiefly arises from the inconvenience and difficulty of moving about +at such times, and not from any superstitious fear. They travel when +there is moonlight. They are true observers of the weather, and +before the approach of a change move their camps so as to obtain a +sheltered position. They do not seem to give the slightest thought +to cause or effect, and would, I believe eat and pass away their time +in a sort of trance-like apathy. Nothing appears to create surprise +in them, and nothing but hunger, or the sense of immediate danger, +arouses them from their listlessness. + +<p>20. I am aware of the great interest taken by his Excellency the +Governor and all the members of the Government of Queensland in the +promotion of missionary enterprise. I much fear, however, that the +mainland here will be found but a barren field for missionary labors. +One great obstacle to successful work is the unsettled nature of the +people. No inducement can keep them long in one place. Certainly a +missionary station might be formed on one of the neighbouring islands +—Albany or Mount Adolphus Island, for instance, where some of the +young natives might be kept in training, according to the system used +by Bishops Selwyn and Patterson for the instruction of the +Melanesians. + +<p>21. With the Kororegas or Prince of Wales Islanders, who, from +constant communication with the islands to the northward, have +acquired a higher degree of intelligence than the pure Australians, I +believe a successful experiment could be made. Missionary enterprise +beyond the protection and influence of this new settlement at +Somerset would, of course, at present be attended with considerable +risk. + +<p>22. To the Banks and Mulgrave Islanders in Torres' Straits, a +similar remark will apply. Those people, however, seem to be of a +more savage nature, although intelligent, and giving considerable +attention to the cultivation of yams, bananas, etc. Both the good +and bad features in their characters may, I believe, in a great +measure be attributed to the strong influence exercised among them by +a white man, called by the natives "Wini," who has been living there +for many years. This man, who is supposed to be an escaped convict +from one of the former penal settlements in Australia, no doubt +considers it politic to keep Europeans from visiting the island where +he resides, "Badu". The natives of Cape York hold him and the Banks +Islanders generally in the greatest dread, giving me to understand +that all strangers going to these islands are killed, and their heads +cut off. The latter appears to be the custom of these and the +neighbouring islands towards their slain enemies. + +<p>23. The natives of the islands more to the northward and eastward +are said to be of milder dispositions, especially the Darnley +Islanders—of whom Captain Edwards, of Sydney, who had a +"Bech-de-mer" fishing establishment there during the last year, +speaks in high terms as being of friendly dispositions and displaying +very considerable intelligence, living in comfortable huts and +cultivating yams, bananas, coconuts, etc., in considerable +quantities. Among these islanders I should think missionaries might +establish themselves without great difficulty, and with a +satisfactory result. + +<p>24. I think that the simple fact of a settlement of Europeans being +established at Cape York will very much tend to curb the savage +natures of the natives, not only of the mainland, but also of the +islands, and any unfortunates who may be cast among them from +shipwrecked vessels will, at all events, have their lives spared; and +I believe that, should such an event take place, I should soon hear +of it from the natives here. The communication between the islanders +and the natives of the mainland is frequent, and the rapid manner in +which news is carried from tribe to tribe to great distances is +astonishing. I was informed of the approach of H.M.S. Salamander on +her last visit two days before her arrival here. Intelligence is +conveyed by means of fires made to throw smoke up in different forms, +and by messengers who perform long and rapid journeys. + +<p>25. I should like much to send one or two of the Cape York natives +to Brisbane to remain there a short time. I believe that the reports +which they would bring back to their tribe of the wonders seen among +the white men would tend more than any other means to promote +friendly feelings towards us, and to fit their minds to receive +favourable impressions. + +<p>26. From what I have previously said of the soil here, it will be +seen that no large portion of it is suited for agriculture. Even +were the land good, the peculiar climate, which may be considered dry +for eight months in the year, would not permit satisfactory +cultivation to any large extent. During the rainy months, from +December to April, vegetables suitable to the temperature may be +grown in abundance. + +<p>27. Of the agreeableness and salubrity of the climate of Somerset, I +can not speak too favorably. The wet season commenced here last year +(1864) with the month of December, and continued till the latter part +of March. During that time the rain was intermittent, a day or two +of heavy wet being succeeded by fine weather. The winds from the +north west were light, and falling away to calm in the evening and +night. During this season the highest range of my thermometer was 98 +degrees in the shade; but it very rarely exceeds 90 degrees, as may +be seen from Dr. Haran's meteorological sheets. During the calms +immediately succeeding wet the heat was disagreeable, and mosquitoes +appeared, but not numerously. The nights were invariably cool. The +weather for the remaining seasons of the year may be termed +enjoyable. A fresh bracing breeze from the south east blows almost +continually, the thermometer averaging during the day from 80 to 85 +degrees. This temperature, with the cool nights, (sufficiently so to +render a blanket welcome) and delightful sea bathing, prevent any of +the lassitude or enervating influence so common to tropical climates +elsewhere from being felt at Somerset. + +<p>28. During the time of my residence here no serious indisposition +has occurred among the European residents. Occasional slight attacks +of illness generally traceable to some cause, has taken place, but as +far as can be judged there is no 'local malady'. There has been no +symptom of fever or ague, which it was apprehended would be prevalent +during the rainy season, as in other hot countries. Dr. Haran, R.N., +(the naval surgeon in charge) reports very favorably of the salubrity +of the climate. I have every reason to believe with Dr. Haran, that +at no very distant period, when steam communication through Torres +Straits shall have been establish, Somerset will be eagerly sought by +invalids from the East as an excellent and accessible sanatorium. + +<p>29. At all events, there can be no doubt but that the new settlement +will fulfil admirably the objects for which it was founded, 'i.e.', a +port of call and harbor of refuge for trade in the dangerous +navigation of Torres Straits, and a coal depot for steamers. + +<p>30. I almost fear that in the foregoing remarks it may be considered +that on some subjects I have entered too much into details, while on +others my notices have been too slight. I have endeavored, as much +as possible, to confine myself to subjects of interest, and you may +rely on my statements as the result of personal observation. Should +there be any particular point on which the Government may require +more specific information, I shall be most happy, if it be in my +power, to afford it. + +<p>I have the honor to be, Sir,<br> +Your most obedient servant,<br> +JOHN JARDINE, P.M.</blockquote> + +<hr width="50%" align="center"> + +<h4>PORT ALBANY.</h4> + +<h5>OVERLAND JOURNEY OF THE MESSRS. JARDINE TO THE PORT ALBANY SETTLEMENT.</h5> + +<blockquote><p>Somerset, May 1, 1865. + +<p>Sir,—Since the date of my last report the most important +intelligence which I have to communicate is the arrival of my sons, +Frank and Alexander Jardine, with their overland party, all safe and +well, after an extremely arduous and toilsome journey of five months, +almost entirely over country which for the greater part may be termed +barren, the distance travelled over being somewhat more than 900 +miles. + +<p>2. The party, consisting of my two sons and four other Europeans +(including Mr. Surveyor Richardson, attached to the expedition by the +Government of Queensland), with four aborigines of the Rockhampton +district, made their final start from Mr. J. G. McDonald's station, +Carpentaria Downs, in latitude 18 deg. 37 min 10 sec S., longitude +144 deg. 3 min 30 sec. E, (the farthest out-station on the supposed +Lynd River), on the 11th of October, 1864, and reached this place on +the 13th of March, ult. Rockhampton was the first point of +departure, my second son leaving it, with the horses and men, on the +16th of May, 1864, making the journey for them about 1800 miles. + +<p>3. It would appear from the journals kept that a great portion of +the country on the west coast of the York Peninsula, especially in +the locality of the Mitchell River, is at times (I presume +periodically) subject to inundation; the water, however, soon +disappears from the flat and sandy land, and for the greater portion +of the year, till the next rainy season, the country is destitute of +water, and in other respects little better than an absolute desert. + +<p>4. It is a subject of great regret to myself, and in which I am sure +you will share, that this long journey should be, so far as at +present appears, productive of so poor a result to the public in +developing new resources to the colony. However, a large and +valuable addition to geographical information has certainly been +gained; but at the same time few of the important discoveries in +lands suitable for pastoral or agricultural occupation, or in +minerals, etc., etc., and which might in so large a tract of country +have reasonably been expected, have been made. + +<p>5. My sons have experienced a severe disappointment to their hopes +and expectations in the nature of the country around, and within a +reasonable distance of this place, as well as a heavy loss in +prosecuting their undertaking. However at their ages, 23 and 21 +respectively, the spirit is very buoyant, and they are again quite +ready for another venture. Their journey, which, from the nature of +the country traversed, has been one of unusual difficulty and +hardship; and it is surprising to me that, hampered as they were with +a herd of 250 cattle, for which providing food and water in a barren +and unknown country is in itself no easy matter, they should have +come through so successfully. + +<p>6. Next to the general barrenness of the country, the difficulties +they had to encounter were—first, the destruction of a quantity of +their supplies and gear, through the camp being carelessly permitted +to catch fire during their absence in pioneering the route. Next, +the determined hostility of the natives, who were almost continually +on their track, annoying them on every favorable opportunity; on one +occasion, the crossing of the "Mitchell," opposing them so +obstinately that a considerable number were shot before they would +give way. Then the loss of two-thirds of their horses (all the best) +from eating some poisonous plant, and which necessitated the last 300 +miles of the journey being travelled on foot; and last, the flooded +state of the country during the season of the rains. And I think it +is not too much for me to say, that nothing but a thorough knowledge +of their business, supported by determined energy, could have carried +them through what must be considered one of the most arduous tasks in +exploration on record. + +<p>7. I will not attempt in the small space of a letter to give you +more full particulars of the journey and its incidents. Mr. Surveyor +Richardson has, of course, his journal and maps of the route as +directed by the government, and from these, with the information +gained by my sons in their numerous "offsets" in search of the best +courses to follow, which will be placed at the disposal of the +Government, I believe a pretty accurate idea of the nature of the +country on the west coast of the York Peninsula may be gathered. + +<p>8. My sons have at present formed their station near Point Vallack, +on the north shore of Newcastle Bay, between two or three miles from +the settlement of Somerset. They are on good terms with the natives, +and their black servants fraternise with them, but are kept under +strict rule. The natives of Cape York from the first have shown a +friendly feeling towards them, having, on their first arrival, met +them about twenty miles from the settlement, and shown them the +nearest way to it, and they have since been very useful in carrying +timber to build huts, stockyards, etc., etc; and I believe that for +the future, if well treated, they will offer no annoyance to the +present settlers. The establishment of a cattle station in the +neighborhood is of great advantage to the settlement, serving as an +outpost to secure its safety, and in opening up the country, besides +affording a ready supply of fresh meat. Already my sons and their +blacks have cut good passages through the scrub to the settlement, +and also through the various belts of scrub dividing their station +from open grounds; so that now a large extent of country can be +<i>ridden</i> over without obstruction. + +<p>9. I have little else of importance to communicate. The affairs of +this settlement have gone on slowly but steadily. The several works +left unfinished are, under the charge of the acting foreman, Private +Bosworth, Royal Marines, (and of whom I can speak most highly for his +attention and work), completed, with the exception of the Custom +House, which is well advanced. + +<p>10. The natives are on good terms with us, and work for us in +various ways, being duly paid in food, tobacco, etc. + +<p>11. On the 23rd ultimo there was a slight shock of an earthquake +felt distinctly by myself and other persons here. It occurred in the +afternoon, about two o'clock, was accompanied by a rumbling sound, +but lasted little more than a minute. The health of the royal +Marines, and all other residents at the settlement, continues to be +very good, as will be seen from the report of the surgeon Dr. Haran, +R.N. I have the honor to be, Sir, + +<p>Your most obedient servant, + +<p>JOHN JARDINE. P.M. + +<p>To the Hon. the Colonial Secretary, Brisbane.</blockquote> + +<hr width="50%" align="center"> + +<h4>DR. HARAN'S REPORT.</h4> + +<blockquote><p>Somerset, May 22, 1865. + +<p>Sir, + +<p>It affords me much pleasure to have again to forward to your Excellency +a most favourable report of the climate of this settlement, and of the +uninterrupted good health of our small community, military and civil. +the dreaded summer season, with its calms, light winds and heavy rains, +has passed off without causing a single case of sickness, attributable +to noxious exhalations, which prevail at that season in most tropical +climates, but which, in my opinion, cannot exist here, owing to the +preventive causes enumerated in my letter of the 13th January last; +neither have we experienced that oppressiveness of the atmosphere which +its saturated condition at that season through the sun's direct +influence in favoring evaporation in the surrounding seas would lead one +to expect. Some slight oppressiveness was felt immediately before the +rains, but speedily disappeared on their occurrence. I can only account +for this valuable immunity by attributing it to some peculiarity of +climate, in all probability to the same causes which counteract the +evolution of noxious exhalations; for we did experience calms and very +light winds, and the hygrometer during the greater part of the time +indicated a very large amount of moisture in the atmosphere. + +<p>2. The meteorological sheets forwarded by this opportunity, contain full +particulars regarding the winds, temperature, etc., for the last four +months, and having been prepared from a series of observations, +conducted with care and regularly registered, they cannot fail, amongst +other important objects bearing on general climatology, to afford +convincing proof that, as a climate, even during the summer season, that +of Somerset, although in close proximity to the equator, possesses many +advantages not attainable in higher latitudes, and is, in my opinion, +from its mildness and equable character, especially suited for such as +may have the misfortune to be predisposed to, or suffering from, +pulmonary consumption. + +<p>3. The S.E. Trade ceased as a continuous wind in these seas on the 24th +December last. Calms, light winds, from all points of the compass, but +chiefly from the points between North and West to South, or against the +sun's course, and heavy rains, with electric phenomena of a +comparatively mild character, succeeded and persisted until the 11th of +March; when the sun's more direct influence having been diverted from +its course, and in a manner dissipated by the great heat and +evaporation, again resumed its ascendancy, and has continued since +without interruption. + +<p>4. On the 25th of January two of the Marines were seized with a severe +headache and other suspicious symptoms while working in the sun during a +calm; and I consider it my duty at once to recommend such alteration in +the working hours as would protect the men from sun-exposure during its +period of greatest heat. These alternations were adopted, and continued +in force until the 22nd of March, when the former working hours were +resumed, as no danger was apprehended from solar heat at any time of the +day during the prevalence of the S.E. Trade wind. + +<p>5. One well-marked case of scurvy became developed at the end of +January; and a few of several cases of cutaneous eruption under +treatment at the time closely resembled the symptoms characteristic of +that disease. the only anti-scorbutic dietary available, +viz.,—preserved meats and potatoes, compressed vegetables and lemon +juice, was issued at once, and continued on the salt-meat days for three +weeks, when all the indications of scurvy having disappeared, the usual +dietary was resumed. Since then the entire adult community have enjoyed +very good health. + +<p>I am, etc., + +<p>T. J. HARAN, Surgeon, R.N. + +<p>His Excellency, Governor Sir G.F. Bowen, G.C.M.G.</blockquote> + +<hr width="50%" align="center"> + +<pre> + +JARDINE'S JOURNAL—NOTES BY THE ETEXT-MAKER. + +Spelling errors and typos listed below are as shown in the paper text +and have been copied into the electronic text. + +FRONT MATTER + +The footnote in the INTRODUCTION does not have a referent in the text— +there is no asterisk in the text. It is not clear whether the +'settlement' it refers to as having been abandoned is at Adam Bay or in +Western Australia. + +P ix—'loosing' instead of 'losing' +P xi—re-placed + +CHAPTER 1 + +There are several words in this chapter which do not conform to today's +spelling, but which appear in the paper text as copied: +p 1—faciliate +p 3—agreable +p 5—speers +p 5—Gaala Creek—(should be Galaa Creek) +p 5—discription +p 7—amunition + +CHAPTER 2 + +P 9—amunition +P 9—earthern +P 9—cheifly +P 10—stoney +P 10—occuring +P 11—villanous +P 11—vestage +P 16—potatoe +P 16—oppossum +P 17—apparantly +P 18—despatch +P 18—amunition +p 19—muscles—probably should be 'mussels' +p 19—(about 18 miles....—no closing bracket +p 23—a cawbawn saucy—should probably be 'as cawbawn.... +p 23—agressors +p 24—succeded +p 24—'where' instead of 'were' +p 24—'frighened' instead of 'frightened' +p 26—emeu +p 27—double and single quotes on "Ferguson," don't match +p 27—'spenifex' instead of 'spinifex' + +CHAPTER 3 +P 30—too (too days) +P 30—dilirious +P 32—carcase +p 32—indispensible +P 32—chissel +P 33—'these' should probably be 'they' +p 33—pigmy +P 34—agreably +P 34—a-head +P 35—degnified +P 36—'course' instead of 'coarse' +P 37—steadilly +P 37—abondoned +p 37—wirey +P 38—cheifly +p 38—seives +P 38—permenantly +p 39—occuring +P 40 —frightended +P 40—bythe (all one word) +P 40—gratuitious + +CHAPTER 4 + +P 42—they (no capital on beginning of sentence) +P 43—horses (no possessive apostrophe) +P 43—varities +P 44—varities +p 44—gulley +p 46—sheild +p 48—agressor +p 49—peices +p 50—bitcher plant—(instead of pitcher plant?) +p 50—pelluced +—————————————————————— + +CHAPTER 5 + +p 59—'course sandstone'—should probably be 'coarse' +p 63—a-head +p 64—the latitude measurements seem to have reversed the signs for + minutes and seconds in measuring latitude. I have spelled out the words. +p 67—'meet' instead of 'meat' +p 68—'eat' instead of 'ate' +p 69—horsmen +p 69—admonitary +p 70—Lichhardt +p 70—retreiver +p 70—mocassins + +CHAPTER 6 + +p 72—distention +p 73—'gotting' should be 'getting'? +p 73—exhiliration + +APPENDIX + +p 75—weeps the stream—should be 'sweeps the stream'? or was the + author being poetic? +p 77—SPINIGEX—should be 'Spinifex' +p 77—genuis—genus +p 77—neverthless +p 77—loosing—losing +p 78—vigilence +p 79—Thozets'—Thozet's +p 82—easly—easily +p 82—entirley +p 83—surperseded + +</pre> + +<p> </p> + +<a name="pic3"></a> +<center> +<img alt="" src="images/jardine-map.jpg"> +<p><b>Map of the northern part of Queensland showing the route of Messrs Jardine from August 1864 to January 1865</b></p> +<p><b>[Click <a href="images/jardine-map-large.jpg" target="_blank">here </a>to display higher resolution map]</b></p> +</center> + +<p> </p> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Overland Expedition of The Messrs. +Jardine, by Frank Jardine and Alexander Jardine + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JARDINE EXPEDITION *** + +***** This file should be named 4521-h.htm or 4521-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/4/5/2/4521/ + +Produced by Amy Zelmer + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Overland Expedition of The Messrs. Jardine + +Author: Frank Jardine and Alexander Jardine + +Release Date: August 28, 2004 [EBook #4521] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JARDINE EXPEDITION *** + + + + +Produced by Amy Zelmer + + + + + +[Errors in the original have been preserved +and noted at the end of this etext.] + + +[Plate: F. & A. JARDINE. Black and white photograph.] + + + +NARRATIVE + +OF THE + +OVERLAND EXPEDITION + + +OF + +THE MESSRS. JARDINE, + + +FROM + +ROCKHAMPTON TO CAPE YORK, + +NORTHERN QUEENSLAND. + + + +COMPILED FROM THE JOURNALS OF THE BROTHERS, AND EDITED + +BY FREDERICK J. BYERLEY, + +(ENGINEER OF ROADS, NORTHERN DIVISION OF QUEENSLAND). + + +BRISBANE + +PRINTED AND PUBLISHED BY J. W. BUXTON, BOOKSELLER AND STATIONER. + + + +1867. + + + +TO + +SIR CHARLES NICHOLSON, BART., + +CHANCELLOR OF THE UNIVERSITY OF SYDNEY, etc., etc., etc., + +AS ONE OF +OUR OLDEST AND MOST DISTINGUISHED +COLONISTS. + +THE NARRATIVE IS INSCRIBED +WITH GREAT RESPECT, BY + +THE EDITOR. + + + +PREFACE. + +THE Settlement of Northern Australia has of late years been of such +rapid growth as to furnish matter for a collection of narratives, +which in the aggregate would make a large and interesting volume. +Prominent amongst these stands that of the Settlement of Cape York, +under the superintendence of Mr. Jardine, with which the gallant trip +of his two sons overland must ever be associated. It was a journey +which, but for the character and qualities of the Leader, might have +terminated as disastrously as that of his unfortunate, but no less +gallant predecessor, Kennedy. A brilliant achievement in +exploration, in a colony where exploring has become common and almost +devoid of interest, from the number of those yearly engaged in it, +its very success has prevented its attracting that share of public +attention to which its results very fully entitled it. Had it been +attended with any signal disaster, involving loss of life, it would +have been otherwise. Geographically, it has solved the question +hitherto undecided of the course of the northern rivers emptying into +the Gulf of Carpentaria, of which nothing was previously known but +their outlets, taken from the charts of the Dutch Navigators. It has +also made known, with tolerable definiteness, how much, or rather, +how little, of the "York Peninsula" is adapted for pastoral +occupation, whilst its success in taking the first stock overland, +and forming a cattle station at Newcastle Bay, has insured to the +Settlement at Somerset a necessary and welcome supply of fresh meat, +and done away with its dependence for supplies on importations by sea +of less nourishing salt provision. + +Starting from the then farthest out-station of Northern Queensland +with a small herd of cattle, these hardy young bushmen met with and +successfully combated, almost every "accident by flood and field" +that could well occur in an expedition. First, an arid waterless +country forced them to follow down two streams at right angles with +their course for upwards of 200 miles, causing a delay which betrayed +them into the depths of the rainy season; then the loss of half their +food and equipment by a fire, occasioned by the carelessness of some +of the party; next the scarcity of grass and water, causing a further +delay by losses of half their horses, which were only recovered to be +again lost altogether--killed by eating a deadly poison plant; and +finally, the setting in of the wet season, making the ground next to +impassable, and so swelling the rivers, that when actually in sight, +and within a week's journey of their destination, they were turned +off their course, and were more than six weeks in reaching it. Added +to this, and running through the whole journey, was the incessant and +determined, although unprovoked, hostility of the natives, which, but +for the unceasing vigilence and prompt and daring action of the +Brothers, might have eventually compassed the annihilation of the +whole party. Had Leichhardt used the same vigilance and decision the +life of poor Gilbert would not have been sacrificed, and in all +probability we should not now deplore his own loss. But the black +tribes which dogged the steps of each expedition, and amongst whom, +probably, were the slayers of Kennedy and Gilbert, met at the hands +of the Brothers the treatment they deserved. If the lessons were +severe, they were in every case of the native's own seeking, and were +administered in fair and open combat, in which few of the white party +were without having narrow escapes to record; but a providential good +fortune seemed to attend them, for every member got through the +journey without accident. An account has been furnished to the +newspapers in the form of a journal by Mr. Richardson, the Surveyor +appointed to accompany the expedition, but it is much too brief and +epitomized to do justice to the subject, and omits altogether the +detached and independant trips of the Brothers whilst exploring ahead +to find the best country through which to take the herd; and, as the +Brothers Jardine themselves would probably much rather repeat their +journey than write a full account of it, it has devolved on the +Editor to attempt to put before the public a compilation of their +journals in such form as will give the narrative sufficient interest +to carry with it the attention of the reader to the end. Although +the matter is ample, this is no easy task for an unpracticed pen, for +to the general reader, the usual monotonous details and entries of an +explorer's notes, which alone give them value to the geographer, +cannot be hoped to excite interest or command attention. But the +journey was full of incident, and the Brothers, although not +scientific naturalists, were keen sportsmen, excelling in all +exercises requiring strength and activity, who had acquired from +their training in the bush that sharpening of the senses and faculty +of observing, the peculiar result of a life in the wilds, which not +only so well fitted them for the conduct of such an expedition, but +also enabled them to note and describe with accuracy the various +interesting objects in botany and zoology met with in the course of +their journey. It is therefore hoped that there will be sufficient +to interest each class of reader. Aided by Mr. Jardine, senior, a +gentleman of large experience in both Botany and Natural History, the +Editor has been enabled to supply the generic names of the birds and +plants met with; which, in many cases, if not altogether new, are +interesting as determining the range and habitat of the birds, and +the zones of vegetation and trees; but it is to be regretted that +there was no one in the party having sufficient knowledge of drawing +to figure such objects, or to delineate some of the more striking +scenes and incidents of the journey. As these can now only be +supplied from the graphic descriptions given by the actors in them, +the Editor, without drawing too much on his imagination, has, in the +compilation of the journals, attempted in some cases to supplement +what was wanted in the text, so as to give the narrative such color +as would make it more readable than a mere journal, but in every case +rendering the descriptions of the prominent incidents of the journey +almost in the original words of the writers, merely adding as much as +would save the text from abruptness. He has adhered to the diurnal +form of narrative, for the sake of recording, for the benefit of +future travellers, the numbers, marks, latitude, etc., of each camp, +and endeavoured to compass by this composite method the value of a +work of record with the interest of a narrative. + +It is also to be regretted that so long a time should have been +allowed to elapse between the end of the journey and the publication +of these pages. The causes of the delay are--first, the +indisposition on the part of the Brothers to "go into print," their +modesty leading them to imagine they had done nothing worth "writing +about," nor was it until the writer pressed them to allow him to +compile and edit their journals that they consented to make them +public; next, the want of leisure on the part of the compiler, whose +official duties have prevented application to his task, save in +detached and interrupted periods; and last, by the difficulty of +making arrangements for publication at a distance. + +If his labor secures to the young explorers the credit and praise +which is the just and due reward of a gallant achievement, and adds a +page of interest to the records of Australian Exploration, his aim +will have been attained, and he will be fully rewarded. + +The Hermitage, 'Rockhampton, December', 1866. + + +INTRODUCTION. + +IN presenting the following pages to the Reader, it may not be out of +place to take a retrospect of the progress of Australian Settlement +generally, and particularly in the young northern colony of +Queensland. + +During the last six years the great question of the character of +Central Australia, in the solution of which the lives of the +unfortunate Leichhardt and his party have been sacrificed, has been +set at rest by the memorable trip of Burke and Wills, and no less +memorable, but more fortunate one of McDouall Stewart. The Search +Expeditions of McKinlay, Howitt, Landsborough, and Walker, have made +it still more familiar, their routes connecting the out-settlements +of South Australia with those of the Gulf Shores and East Coast, and +adding their quota of detail to the skeleton lines of Leichhardt, +Gregory, and Burke and Wills; whilst private enterprise has, during +that time, been busy in further filling in the spaces, and utilizing +the knowledge gained by occupying the waste lands thus opened up. + +It is questionable whether the amount of available country thus made +known has not been dearly purchased, by the very large sums that have +been expended, and the valuable lives that have been lost in its +exploration; the arid and waterless wastes of the interior, which +have now been proved equally subject to terrific droughts and +devastating floods, make it improbable that the Settlements of the +North Coast and the Southern Colonies can be connected by a +continuous line of occupation for many years to come; the rich +pastoral tracts of Arnheim's Land, the Victoria River, the Gulf +Coast, and Albert and Flinders Rivers, are thus the only localities +likely to be made use of for the present; these, however, have been +known since the first explorations of Leichhardt and Gregory; we are +forced, therefore, to the conclusion that the results of the +subsequent expeditions are not commensurate with their cost and +sacrifices, and to consider whether further exploration may not be +safely left to private enterprise. + +Let us now glance at what has been done since 1860 in the way of +occupation. South Australia has founded on theNorth Coast a +Settlement at Adam Bay, on the Adelaide River, but its progress seems +to have been marked from the onset by misfortune. The officer +charged with its formation, in a short time managed to raise so +strong a feeling of dissatisfaction and dislike amongst the settlers +as to call for a Commission of Enquiry on his administration, which +resulted in his removal. His successor seems, by latest accounts to +have raised up no less dislike, the difference of his rule being +likened by the papers to that of the fabled kings, Log and Stork. +The site of the Settlement, Escape Cliffs, has been universally +condemned; one charge against the first Resident being, that it was +selected in opposition to the almost unanimous opinion of the +colonists. The subject was referred for final report to John +McKinley, the well-known Explorer, who, bearing out the general +opinion, at once condemned it, and set out to explore the country in +search for a better. In this he has not discovered any new locality, +but has recommended Anson Bay, at the mouth of the Daly, a site +previously visited, but rejected by the first Resident. Previous to +his visit to Anson Bay, Mr. McKinlay started with a well-equiped +party for an exploring trip, which was to last twelve months. At the +end of five he returned, after one of the most miraculous escapes of +himself and party from destruction on record, having only penetrated +to the East Alligator River, about 80 miles from Adam Bay; here he +became surrounded by floods, and only saved his own and the lives of +his party (loosing all else) by the desperate expedient of making a +boat of the hides of their horses, in which they floated down the +swollen river, and eventually reached the Settlement. It is not +improbable that in some such a flood poor Leichhardt and his little +band lost their lives, and all trace of their fate has been +destroyed. These experiences have caused some doubt and despondency +as to the future of the new Settlement, and the question is now being +agitated in the South Australian Parliament as to the desirability or +not of abandoning it. + +Western Australia has formed the Settlements of Camden Harbor, and +Nickol Bay. The latter (the country around which was explored by Mr. +Francis Gregory, brother to the Surveyor-General of Queensland, in +1861), appears to have progressed favorably, the Grey, Gascoigne, +Oakover and Lyons Rivers affording inducements to stockholders to +occupy them, but the Settlement of Camden Harbor at the time of the +visit of Mr. Stow in his boat-voyage from Adam Bay to Champion Bay, +was being abandoned by the colonists, the country being unsuitable +for stock, and it would appear from that gentleman's account that the +whole of the north-west coast of the continent, from its general +character, offers but little inducement for settlement. + +[footnote] *Since this was written the settlement has been abandoned. +[NOTE--the footnote in the INTRODUCTION does not have a referent in +the text--there is no asterisk in the text. It is not clear +whether the 'settlement' it refers to as having been abandoned is at +Adam Bay or in Western Australia.] + +The explorations of Francis Gregory to the eastward from Nickol Bay, +and of the Surveyor-General to the south from the Victoria River, +were both arrested by wastes of drift-sand, whilst those from the +western seaboard have not been extended further inland than to more +than an average of 3 degrees of longitude. It may reasonably be +doubted, therefore, whether settlement will be much extended in that +direction. + +Queensland, more fortunate in the character of the country, has, on +her part, successfully established six new settlements, to wit, +Mackay, at the Pioneer River; Bowen, Port Denison; Townsville, +Cleveland Bay; Cardwell, Rockingham Bay; Somerset, Cape York; and +Burke Town, at the Albert River; and there can be little doubt but +that the country of the Gulf shores and the northern territory of +South Australia must be 'stocked', if not settled, from the same +source. Already have our hardy pioneers driven their stock out as +far as the Flinders, Albert, Leichhardt, and Nicholson Rivers, the +Flinders and Cloncurry having been stocked along their length for +some time past. On the South and West, the heads of the Warrego, the +Nive, Barcoo, and Thompson have also been occupied, some of the +stations being between four and five hundred miles from the seaboard, +whilst the surveyors of the Roads Department have extended their +surveys as far as the two last-named rivers, for the purpose of +determining the best and shortest lines of communication. The +Government, with wise liberality, has facilitated the access from the +seaboard to the interior, by the expenditure of large sums in +constructing and improving passes through the Coast Range on four +different points, and by the construction of works on the worst +portions of the roads, have largely reduced the difficulties of +transport for the out-settlers. Bowen, a town which had no existence +six years ago, has been connected with Brisbane by the telegraph +wire, and ere another twelve months have elapsed the electric flash +will have placed Melbourne, in Victoria, and Burke Town, on the Gulf +of Carpentaria, "on speaking terms," the country between the latter +place and Cleveland Bay having been examined and determined on for a +telegraph line by the experienced explorer Walker for that purpose. + +Of the six new settlements that have been called into existence, two, +Bowen and Townsville, have been incorporated, and are now, together +with Mackay, straining in the race to secure the trade of the western +interior. Cardwell has experienced a check, in consequence of an +undue haste in the adoption of a line of road over its Coast Range, +which is too difficult to be generally adopted, and will probably be +abandoned for a better since discovered; but its noble harbour is too +good, and the extent of back country it commands too extensive in +area, for it not ultimately to take its place as an important port. +Burke Town is but starting into existence, but already supplies the +settlers of the Flinders and other Gulf rivers with which it has +opened communication. Mr. William Landsborough, the well-known +explorer, has been charged with the administration of its affairs, +and a survey staff has been despatched to lay out the lands. Vessels +now trade direct from Brisbane with some regularity, which services +will, no doubt, soon be re-placed by steamers. + +But it is with Somerset, Cape York, that we have more especial +concern. In the August of 1862, Sir George Bowen, Governor of +Queensland, being on a voyage of inspection to the Northern Ports, in +Her Majesty's Steamer "Pioneer," visited Port Albany, Cape York, and +on his return, in a despatch to the Imperial Government, recommended +it for the site of a Settlement, on account of its geographical +importance, as harbor of refuge, coaling station, and entrepot for +the trade of Torres Straits and the Islands of the North Pacific. +The following year the formation of a Settlement was decided upon, +the Home Government sending out a detachment of Marines to be +stationed there, and assist in its establishment. The task of +establishing the new Settlement was confided to Mr. Jardine, then +Police Magistrate of Rockhampton, than whom, perhaps, no man could be +found more fitted for its peculiar duties. An experienced official, +a military man, keen sportsman, and old bushman, he possessed, in +addition to an active and energetic temperament, every quality and +experience necessary for meeting the varied and exceptional duties +incident to such a position. It was whilst making the arrangements +for the expedition by sea, which was to transport the staff, +materiel, and stores of the Settlement, that Mr. Jardine, foreseeing +the want of fresh provision, proposed to the Government to send his +own sons, Frank and Alexander, overland with a herd of cattle to form +a station from which it might be supplied. This was readily acceded +to, the Government agreeing to supply the party with the services of +a qualified surveyor, fully equipped, to act as Geographer, by noting +and recording their course and the appearance of the country +traversed, and also horses, arms, and accoutrements for four native +blacks, or as they are commonly called in the colonies, Black-boys. +Although the account of poor Kennedy's journey from Rockingham Bay to +Cape York, in which his own and half his party's lives were +sacrificed, was not very encouraging for the intended expedition, Mr. +Jardine never for a moment doubted of its success, and looked forward +to meeting his sons at Somerset as a matter of course. In the prime +of youth and health (their ages were but 22 and 20), strong, active, +and hardy, inured to the life and habits of the bush, with an +instinct of locality, which has been alluded to as having "la +Boussole dans la tete," they were eminently fitted for the task, and +eagerly undertook it when proposed. How well they carried it out, +although, unfortunately, with so little benefit to themselves, is +here recorded. Had poor Wills been associated with such companions +there would have been a different tale to tell to that which lends so +melancholy an interest to his name, and we should now have him +amongst us to honor, instead of a monument to his memory, a monument, +which in honoring the dead, rebukes the living. + +The loss of three-fourths of their horses, and a fifth of their +cattle, together with a large equipment, has made the enterprise of +the Messrs. Jardine, speaking financially, little short of a failure, +but at their age the mind is resilient, and not easily damped by +misfortune. On their return to Brisbane the Government, with kind +consideration, proposed to place such a sum on the Estimates of +Parliament as would indemnify them, and at the same time mark its +sense of the high merit and importance of their journey, but this, +through their father, they respectfully declined, Frank Jardine +giving as his reason, that as the expedition was a private enterprise +and not a public undertaking, he did not consider himself entitled to +any indemnity from the public. Opinions may be divided on such a +conclusion, but in it we cannot but recognise a delicacy and nobility +of sentiment as rare, unfortunately, as it is admirable. Yet, if +they have thus voluntarily cut themselves off from the substantial +rewards which have hitherto recompensed other explorers, they are +still entitled to the high praise and commendation of all who admire +spirit and determination of purpose, and cannot be insensible to +their applause. And it is in recognition that such is their due, +that the writer has undertaken to bring this narrative before the +public. + + + +CHAPTER I. + +Start from Rockhampton--Alexander Jardine explores the Einasleih-- +Newcastle Range--Pluto Creek--Canal Creek--Basaltic Plateau-- +Warroul Creek--Parallel Creek--Galas Creek--Porphyry Islands-- +Alligators' tracks--Bauhinia Plains--Discovers error as to River +Lynd--Return--The Nonda--Burdekin duck--Simon's Gap-- +Arrival of the cattle--Preparation for final start. + +On the 14th of May, 1864, the overland party which was to take cattle +to the new settlement at Cape York, was started by Mr. Frank Jardine, +from Rockhampton, under the charge of his brother Alexander. It +comprised ten persons, with thirty-one horses. The instructions were +to travel by easy stages to Port Denison, and there wait the arrival +of the Leader. In the following month, Mr. Jardine, senior, taking +with him his third son John, sailed for Brisbane, and shortly after +from thence to Somerset, Cape York, in the Eagle, barque, chartered +by the Government, for transport of material, etc., arriving there at +the end of June. + +Mr. Frank Jardine, taking with him the surveyor attached to the +expedition, Mr. A. J. Richardson, arrived at Bowen by sea, about the +middle of July, when the party was again moved forward, he himself +starting off to make the purchase of the cattle. Five more horses +were purchased on account of the Government in Bowen, for Mr. +Richardson, making a total of forty-two. The prevalence of +pleuro-pneumonia made it a matter of some difficulty for Mr. F. +Jardine to get suitable stock for his purpose, and caused +considerable delay. Arrangements having at length been made with Mr. +William Stenhouse, of the River Clarke, the party was divided at the +Reedy Lake Station, on the Burdekin, Mr. A. Jardine moving forward +with the pack horses and equipment, leaving the Leader with Messrs. +Scrutton and Cowderoy, and three black boys to muster and fetch on +the cattle. The advance party started on the 17th August, and +arrived at Carpentaria Downs, the station of J. G. Macdonald, Esq., +on the 30th. This was at that time the furthest station to the North +West, and was intended to be made the final starting point of the +expedition, by the permission of Mr. Macdonald, from whom the party +received much kindness. On their way they were joined by Mr. Henry +Bode, a gentleman who was in search of country to occupy with stock. +After remaining in camp at Carpentaria Downs for a few days, Mr. A. +Jardine decided on utilizing the interval, which must elapse before +his brother could re-join him with the cattle, by exploring the +country ahead, so as to faciliate the march of the stock on the final +start. Accordingly, leaving the camp in charge of Mr. Richardson, +with Mr. Binney, and two black boys, he started on the 3rd of +September, taking with him the most trusty of his black boys, "old +Eulah," and one pack-horse, and accompanied by Mr. Bode, who took +advantage of the opportunity to have a look at the country. As Mr. +Bode had his own black boy with him, the party comprised four, with +two pack-horses, carrying provision for three weeks. About the same +time Mr. Macdonald started with a party of three to find a road for +his stock to the Gulf, where he was about to form a station; the +account of which trip has been published bythat gentleman. + +The stream on which Carpentaria Downs station is situated was +supposed to be the "Lynd" of Leichhardt and was so called and known; +but as this was found to be an error, and that it was a tributary of +the Gilbert, it will be distinguished by the name it subsequently +received, the Einasleih. Keeping the right bank of the river which +was running strongly two hundred yards wide, the party travelled six +miles to a small rocky bald hill, under which they passed on the +north side; and thence to a gap in a low range, through which the +river forces its way. Travelling down its bed for a +quarter-of-a-mile, they crossed to its left bank, on to a large level +basaltic plain; but here the extent of the rocky ground made the +travelling so bad for the horses, although shod, that it was +impossible to proceed, and the river was therefore re-crossed. Five +miles more of rough travelling over broken stony ironbark ridges, +brought them to a second gorge, formed by two spurs of a range, +running down to the river banks on either side, where they camped, +having made about 15 miles on a general course of N.W. by N. To the +south of this gorge, and running parallel with the river, is a high +range of hills, which received the name of the Newcastle Range. +(Camp I.) + +'September' 4.--Resuming their journey, the party passed through a +gap in the northern spur, described yesterday, about a +quarter-of-a-mile from the camp. From this gap a point of the range +on the south side was sighted, running into the river, and for this +they steered. At 4 miles a small lagoon was passed, 300 yards out +from the river, and a quarter-of-a-mile further on, a broad, shallow, +sandy creek(then dry), which was named "Pluto Creek." At 8 miles a +small rugged hill was passed on the left hand, and the point of the +range steered for reached at 9. At 12 a large well-watered creek was +crossed, and the party camped at the end of 18 miles on a similar +one. The general course N.N.W., and lay chiefly over very stony +ridges, close to the river banks. The timber was chiefly box, +iron-bark, and melaleuca, the latter growing in the shallow bed, in +which also large granite boulders frequently occurred. Though +shallow, it contained fine pools and reaches of water, in some of +which very fine fish were observed. Eighteen miles (Camp II.) + +'September' 5.--After crossing the creek, on which they had camped, +at its junction, the party followed down a narrow river flat for four +miles, to where a large sandy creek joins it from the north. The +steepness of its banks and freedom from fallen timber, suggested the +name of "Canal Creek"--it is about 80 yards wide. Two miles +further down a small creek joins, and at 12 miles a high rocky hill +was reached. From this hill a bar of granite rock extends across the +river to a similar one on the south side. A fine view was obtained +from its summit showing them the course of the river. Up to this +point the course had been N.W. After passing through a gap, +immediately under and on the north of the rocky hill they were forced +by the river into a northerly course for two miles, at which they +crossed a spur of the range running into it, so rugged that they were +obliged to lead their horses. Beyond this they emerged on to a +basaltic plain, timbered with box and bloodwood, and so stony as to +render the walking very severe for the horses. The basalt continued +for the rest of the day. At about 18 miles a large creek was +crossed, running into an ana-branch. The banks of the river which +border the basaltic plain are very high and steep on both sides. +Running the ana-branch down for four miles, the camp was pitched, +after a tedious and fatiguing day's march. (Camp III.) + +'September' 6.--The ana-branch camped on last night being found to +run parallel to the course of the river, received the name of +Parallel Creek. Its average width is about 150 yards, well watered, +and full of melaleucas and fallen timber. The country on its north +bank down to its junction with the river 20 miles from the junction +of Warroul Creek, is broken into ridges of quartz and sand-stone, +stony, and poorly grassed. That contained between its south bank and +the river, the greatest width of which is not more than three miles, +is a basaltic plateau, terminating in precipitous banks on the river, +averaging 50 feet in perpendicular height. To avoid the stones on +either side, there being no choice between the two, the party +travelled down the bed of Parallel Creek the whole day. At about 9 +miles stringy bark appeared on the ridges of the north bank. Large +flocks of cockatoo parrots ('Nymphicus Nov. Holl.') were seen during +the day, and a "plant" of native spears was found. They were neatly +made, jagged at the head with wallaby bones, and intended for +throwing in the Wommerah or throwing stick. At the end of 20 miles +the party reached the junction of Parallel Creek with the river and +encamped. The general course was about N.W. (Camp IV.) + +'September' 7.--The party was now happily clear of the basaltic +country, but the travelling was still none of the best, the first +nine miles of to-day's stage being over stony ridges of quartz and +iron-stone, interspersed with small, sandy, river flats. At this +distance a large creek of running water was crossed, and the camp +pitched at about two miles from its junction with the Einasleih. The +creek received the name of Galaa Creek, in allusion to the galaa or +rose cockatoo ('Cacatua Rosea'), large flocks of which were +frequently seen. The junction of Galaa Creek is remarkable for two +porphyritic rock islands, situated in the bed of the river, which is +here sandy, well watered, and about 300 yards wide. The grass was +very scarce, having been recently burned. The timber chiefly +iron-bark and box. Course N.W. 1/2 W., distance 10 miles (Camp V.) + +'September' 8.--To-day the river was followed down over low broken +stony ranges, having their crests covered with "garrawan" scrub for 5 +miles, when the party was gratified by an agreable change in the +features of the country. Instead of the alternative of broken +country, stony ridges, or basaltic plains they had toiled over for +nearly 80 miles, they now emerged on to fine open well-grassed river +flats, lightly timbered, and separated by small spurs of ridges +running into them. A chain of small lagoons was passed at 12 miles, +teeming with black duck, teal, wood duck, and pigmy geese, whilst +pigeons and other birds were frequent in the open timber, a sure +indication of good country. At 13 miles a small creek was crossed, +and another at 18, and after having made a good stage of 25 miles the +party again camped on the Einasleih. At this point it had increased +to a width of nearly a mile, the banks were low and sloping, and the +bed shallow and dry. It was still nevertheless, well watered, the +stream, as is not unusual in many of our northern rivers, continuing +to run under the surface of the sand, and requiring very slight +digging or even scratching, to be got at. The general course +throughout the day was about N.W.1/2W. (Camp VI.) + +'September' 9.--The course down the river was resumed over similar +country to that of yesterday. Keeping at the back of some low +table-topped hills, at 5 miles the party struck a fine clear deep +lagoon, about two miles in from the river, of which it is the +overflow. A chain of small waterholes occurs at 12 miles, which were +covered with ducks and other water-fowl, whilst immense flocks of a +slate-colored pigeon were seen at intervals. They are about the same +size as the Bronzewing, and excessively wild.* The river, when again +struck, had resumed running. It was still sandy and full of the +graceful weeping melaleuca in the bed, where traces of alligators +were observed. The country traversed throughout the day was good, +but the small plains and flats were thought likely to be swampy in +wet weather. Another good stage of 26 miles was made, and the party +again camped on the river. The general course was due west. (Camp +VII.) + +[footnote] * 'The Phaps Histrionica, or Harlequin Bronzewing.' + +'September' 10.--Taking his course from the map he carried, shewing +the river running north-west, and depending on its correctness, Mr. +Jardine bore to the north-west for 15 miles, travelling over sandy +honey-combed rises, and low swampy plains, when he reached a +watershed to the north, which he then supposed must be the head of +Mitchell waters, finding himself misled by his map and that he had +left the river altogether, he turned south by west and did not reach +it before the end of 8 miles on that bearing, when the party camped +on a small ana-branch. The true course of the river would thus be +about W. by N. Total distance 23 miles. (Camp VIII.) + +'September' 11.--This day's journey was over fine country. The +first course was N.W. for about 5 miles, to a large round shallow +lagoon, covered with quantities of wild fowl, and thence, following +the direction of the river into camp about 13 miles, over a +succession of large black soil plains covered with good grasses, +mixed herbs, and salt bush. The principal timber being bauhinia, +suggested the name of "Bauhinia Plains." Their width back from the +river extended to an average of six miles, when they were bounded by +low well-grassed iron-bark ridges. The river was broad and sandy, +running in two or three channels, and occasionally spreading into +long reaches. Large ana-branches, plentifully watered, left the main +channel running back from it from 1 to 3 miles. A great many fishing +weirs were observed in the channels of the river, from which it would +appear that the blacks live much, if not principally, on fish. They +were well and neatly constructed. (Camp IX.) + +'September' 12.--Alexander Jardine, having now travelled 180 miles +from Carpentaria Downs, was convinced that the river he had traced +this distance could not be the Lynd of Leichhardt. The reasons which +forced this conclusion on him were three:--Firstly, the discription +of the country in no wise tallied. Secondly, the course of the river +differed. And thirdly, although he had travelled further to the west +than Leichhardt's junction of the Lynd and Mitchell, he had not even +been on Mitchell waters, the northern watershed he had been on, on +the 10th, being that of a small creek, doubling on itself, and +running into this river. Having thus set the matter at rest in his +own mind, he determined to re-trace his steps, and accordingly +started back this morning and camped at night at the shallow lagoon, +passed the day previous. On the way they shot several ducks and a +bustard. These are very numerous on the plains, but wild and +unapproachable, as they most frequently are in the north. At each +camp on his journey Mr. Jardine regularly marked a tree A.J. and the +number of the Camp. + +'September' 13.--The party travelled back over Bauhinia Plains, and +camped on the river, near camp 8 of the outward journey. At night +they went fishing, and got a number of fine perch, and a small +spotted fish. Distance 24 miles. + +'September' 14.--To-day the party saw blacks for the first time +since leaving Carpentaria Downs. They "rounded them up," and had a +parley, without hostility on either side, each being on the +defensive, and observing the other. They bore no distinctive +character, or apparent difference to the Rockhampton tribes, and were +armed with reed speers and wommerahs. For the first time also they +met with the ripe fruit of the Palinaria, the "Nonda" of Leichhardt. +The distance travelled was 27 miles, which brought them to the 7th +camp on the outward journey. + +'September' 15.--Following up the course of the river, the 6th camp +was reached in 26 miles, where the feed was so good that Mr. Jardine +determined to halt for a day and recruit the horses. On the way they +again passed some natives who were fishing in a large lagoon, but +shewed no hostility. They had an opportunity of seeing their mode of +spearing the fish, in which they used a long heavy four-pronged +spear, barbed with kangaroo bones. + +'September' 16.--Was spent in fishing and hunting, whilst the +horses luxuriated in the abundant feed. They caught some perch, and +a fine cod, not unlike the Murray cod in shape, but darker and +without scales. At night, there being a fine moonlight, they went +out to try and shoot opossums as an addition to the larder, but were +unsuccessful. They appeared to be very scarce. + +'September' 17.--Resuming their journey, the party travelled 21 +miles, to a spot about 4 miles below No. 5 camp, on Gaala Creek, and +turned out. Here they met with wild lucerne in great abundance, and +a great deal of mica and talc was observed in the river. During the +day Mr. Jardine shot a bustard, and some fish being again caught in +the evening, there was high feeding in camp at night. The bagging of +a bustard, or plain turkey as it is more commonly called, always +makes a red day for the kitchen. Its meat is tender and juicy, and +either roasted whole, dressed into steaks, or stewed into soup, makes +a grateful meal for a hungry traveller. + +'September' 18.--Keeping out some distance from its banks to avoid +the stones and deep gullies, the party followed up the river to the +junction of Parallel Creek: this was traced, keeping along its bed +for the same reason, by which course only they were enabled to avoid +them. These, as before described, were very thickly strewn making +the journey tedious and severe on the horses, so that only 14 miles +were accomplished, when they camped on a large waterhole five miles +above the junction. The beautiful Burdekin duck ('Tadorna Radjah') +was met with, of which Mr. Jardine shot a couple. + +'September' 19.--Still keeping along the bed of Parallel Creek, the +party travelled up its course. This they were constrained to do, in +consequence of the broken and stony banks and country on the east +side, whilst an abrupt wall of basalt prevented them leaving the bed +on the west. At 13 miles they camped for a couple of hours in the +middle of the day, on a large creek which received the name of +Warroul Creek, suggested by their finding two large "sugar bags" or +bees' nests on it, "Warroul" being the name for bee in the Wirotheree +or Wellington dialect. Warroul Creek runs into Parallel Creek from +the south-east, joining it about half-a-mile below where it leaves +the river, it being as before mentioned an ana-branch of the +Einasleih. Leaving Parallel and travelling up Warroul Creek, in 8 +miles they reached the gap in the range 12 miles below camp No. 2. +This afterwards received the name of Simon's Gap, and the range it +occurs in, Jorgensen's Range, after Simon Jorgensen, Esq., of +Gracemere. Two miles, from the gap they struck a large round swamp +which had not been observed on the down journey, the party having +kept close to the river, from which it is distant two miles. This +was named "Cawana Swamp" There being good grass there, they camped. +Native companions ('Crus Australalasinus') and the more rare jabiru +('Myeteria Australis') were very numerous on it. Total distance 23 +miles. + +'September' 20.--To-day the party made the lagoon mentioned on the +4th inst., a distance of 27 miles, traversing nearly the same ground +already described and camped. They again saw a mob of blacks fishing +in the river, who, on seeing them, immediately decamped into the +ranges on the opposite side and disappeared. The next day, Mr. +Macdonald's station, Carpentaria Downs was reached in 17 miles, the +little party having travelled over nearly 360 miles of ground in 18 +days. Mr. Jardine found all well at the main camp, but no sign of +his brother with the cattle; fifteen days passed before his arrival, +during which time Alexander Jardine plotted up the courses of his +journey down the Einasleih, and submitted the plan to Mr. Richardson, +without, however, shaking the gentleman's faith as to his position, +or that they were on Leichhardt's Lynd, preferring to dispute the +accuracy of the reckoning. It will be seen, however, that the +explorer was right, and the surveyor wrong. It being expedient that +the party should husband their rations for the journey until the +final start, Mr. Macdonald kindly supplied them with what was +necessary for their present wants, thus allowing them to keep their own +stores intact. + +On the 6th of October, Frank Jardine made his appearance with the +cattle, a mob of about 250 head of bullocks and cows in good +condition. The ensuing three days were spent by the brothers in +shoeing the horses, a job of no little tedium and difficulty, they +being the only farriers of the party. There were 42 head to shoe, +many of which had never been shod before, and as the thermometer +stood at 100 degrees in the shade most of the day, their office was +no sinecure; they had at first some difficulty in getting a +sufficient heat, but after a little experimenting found a wood of +great value in that particular. This was the apple-gum, by using +which, they could if necessary get a white heat in the iron. At the +end of the third day the last horse was shod, and it only remained to +get the stores and gear together, and dispose them on the different +packs. This was done on the 10th, on the evening of which they were +ready for the final start. The party was thus composed: Frank +Lacelles Jardine, Leader; Alexander Jardine, Archibald J. Richardson, +Government Surveyor; C. Scrutton, R. N. Binney, A. Cowderoy, Eulah, +Peter, Sambo and Barney, black boys from the districts of Rockhampton +and Wide Bay; 41 picked horses and 1 mule, all in good order and +condition. + +Their provision was calculated to last them 4 months, and was +distributed together with the tools, amunition, and camp necessaries +on 18 packs, averaging at the start about 150 lbs. each. It +consisted of 1200 lbs. flour, 3 cwt. sugar, 35 lbs. of tea, 40 lbs. +currants and raisins, 20 lbs. peas, 20 lbs. jams, salt, etc. The +black troopers were armed with the ordinary double-barrelled police +carbine, the whites carrying Terry's breech-loaders, and Tranter's +revolvers. They had very ample occasion to test the value and +efficiency of both these arms, which, in the hands of cool men, are +invaluable in conflict. + +The personalities of the party were reduced to a minimum, and what +was supposed to be absolutely necessary, one pack (the mule's) being +devoted to odds and ends, or what are termed in bush parlance, +'manavlins'. Three light tents only were carried, more for +protecting the stores than for shelter for the party. + +All were in excellent health, and good spirits, and eager to make a start. + + + +CHAPTER II. + +Start from Carpentaria Downs--Order of Travel--Canal Creek-- +Cawana Swamp--Simons' Gap--Cowderoy's Bluff--Barney's Nob-- +Casualties in Parallel Creek--Basaltic Wall--Singular Fish-- +Black Carbonado--Improvement in Country--Search for the Lynd-- +Doubts--First rain--Error of Starting point--Large ant-hills-- +Ship's iron found--Native nets--Second start in search of Lynd-- +Return--Byerley Creek--The whole party moves forward--Belle +Creek--Maroon Creek--Cockburn Creek--Short Commons--Camp +Burned--The Powder saved--Maramie Creek--The Staaten--First +hostility of Natives--Poison--"Marion" abandoned--Conclusion as +to River--Heavy rain--First attack of Natives--Horses lost-- +Barren Country--Detention--Leader attacked by Natives-- +Black-boy attacked--A "growl"--Mosquitoes and flies--Kites-- +Cattle missing--Horses found--Leader again attacked--Main party +attacked--Return to the River--Character of Staaten--Lagoon +Creek--Tea-tree levels--Junction of Maramie Creek--Reach head +of tide--Confirmation of opinion. + +'October' 11.--At sunrise the cattle was started with Cowderoy and +two black-boys, Eulah and Barney, the former acting as pilot. Their +instructions were to camp at the swamp at the junction of Pluto +Creek, seventeen miles from McDonald's station, mentioned on 3rd. +September. The pack-horses were not got away until half-past 12, +two, "Rasper," and the mule (as often provokingly happens when most +wanted) being astray, and having to be hunted for. There was also +the usual amount of "bucking" incident to a start, the unpractised +pack-horses rebelling against the unwonted load and amount of gear, +and with a few vigorous plunges sending pack-bags, pots, hobbles, and +chains in scattered confusion all round them. Few starts of a large +party occur without similar mischances, but a day or two, suffices +for the horses to settle to their work, after which all goes +smoothly. The country travelled has been described in the preceding +chapter. A hill at five miles on Pluto Creek, received the name of +Mount Eulah. On reaching the swamp, the brothers found the cattle +party had not arrived. This was the first of many similar annoyances +during the journey. It being between 8 and 9 p.m., it was useless to +think of looking for them at that time of night. They therefore +encamped on the river, intending to return and run the tracks of the +cattle in the morning. The distance travelled was about 20 miles. + +'October' 12.--Leaving Binney in charge of the horses, with orders +to feed them about the Lagoon, where there was better grass than at +the river, the brothers started at sunrise in quest of the cattle +party. They met them at about five miles up Pluto Creek, which they +were running down. It appeared that Master Eulah, the pilot, had got +completely puzzled, and led the party into the ranges to the +eastward, where, after travelling all day, they had been obliged to +camp about half-way from the station, and without water. He was very +chop-fallen about his mistake, which involved his character as a +bushman. The Australian aborigines have not in all cases that +unerring instinct of locality which has been attributed to them, and +are, out of their own country, no better, and generally scarcely so +good as an experienced white. The brothers soon found water for them +in the creek under Mount Eulah; after which,returning to the camp, it +was too late to continue the journey, particularly as it had been +necessary to send one of "the boys" back for a bag of amunition that +had been lost on the way. This is the work they are most useful in, +as few, even of the best bushmen are equal to them in running a +track. The day's stage of the cattle was about 11 miles. + +'October' 13.--The cattle started at a quarter-to-six, in charge of +Alexander Jardine and two black-boys, while Frank and the rest of the +party remained behind to pack and start the horses. This at the +commencement was the usual mode of travelling, the horses generally +overtaking the cattle before mid-day, when all travelled together +till they camped at night, or preceded them to find and form the +camp. Two incidents occurred on the way: "Postman," a pack-horse on +crossing a deep narrow creek, fell and turned heels uppermost, where +he lay kicking helplessly, unable to rise, until the pack was cut +clear of him; and "Cerberus," another horse, not liking the +companionship of the mule, took occasion in crossing another creek to +kick his long-eared mate from the top to the bottom of it, to the +intense amusement of the black-boys, who screamed "dere go poor +fellow donkit" with great delight. The whole course was about 11 +miles. The camp on a small dry creek. They procured water in the +main channel of the river, on the south side. During the journey at +every camp where there was timber, Mr. Jardine cut (or caused to be +cut) its number with a chisel into the wood of a tree, in Roman +numerals, and his initials generally in a shield. + +'October' 14.--The distance travelled to-day was only 11 miles, but +described by Mr. Jardine, as equal to 20 of fair travelling ground. +The course lay over very stony quartz and granite ridges, which could +not be avoided, as they ran into the river, whilst the bed of the +stream would have been as difficult, being constantly crossed by +rocky bars, and filled by immense boulders. The grass was very +scarce, the blacks having burnt it all along the river. There were +patches where it never grows at all, presenting the appearance of an +earthern floor. They encamped at the junction of Canal Creek, under +the shade of some magnificent Leichhardt trees ('Nauclea +Leichhardtii') that grow there, without other water than what they +dug for in the sandy bed, and reached at a depth of two feet. On the +opposite side and about a mile from the junction there is a swamp, +splendidly grassed, which looked like a green barley field, but the +water was too salt for the horses to drink, an unusual thing in +granite country. The timber of the ridges was cheifly stunted hollow +iron-bark, that of the river, bloodwood, and the apple-gum, described +as so good for forging purposes; there was a total absence of those +tall well-grown gums, by which the course of a stream may usually be +traced from a distance. So little was the river defined by the +timber that it could not be distinguished at a half-a-mile away. + +'October' 15.--The party moved to-day as far as the swamp mentioned +on the 19th September. It received the name of "Cawana Swamp," and +is described as the best and prettiest camping place they had yet +seen. It is surrounded by the high stoney range called Jorgensen's +Range on two sides, north and east, whilst on the south and east it +is hemmed in by a stretch of cellular basalt, which makes it almost +unapproachable. The only easy approach is by the river from the +westward. It is six miles round, and so shallow that the cattle fed +nearly a mile towards the middle. The party travelled out of the +direct course to avoid the stones, keeping the narrow flats occuring +between the river and ridges, which averaged about 200 yards in +width; when intercepted by the ridges running into the river, they +followed down its bed which is more clearly defined by oak +('Casuarinae') and Leichhardt trees than up the stream. The improved +travelling allowed them to make the stage of 9 miles in less than +four hours, and turn out early. Several large flocks of galaas +('Cacatua Rosea,') were seen, and Alexander Jardine shot a wallaby. +Before starting, Barney, one of the black-boys had to be corrected by +the Leader for misconduct, which had the effect of restoring +discipline. On reaching Cawana Swamp, the fires of the natives were +found quite fresh, from which it would seem that they had decamped on +the approach of the party, leaving plenty of birrum-burrongs, or +bee-eaters ('Merops Ornatus, Gould') behind them. An observation +taken at night gave the latitude 18 degrees 1 minute 59 seconds, +which gave about 41 miles of Northing. + +'October' 16.--The cattle were started away at a quarter-to-four +o'clock, this morning, and found an excellent passage through +Jorgensen's Range, by "Simon's Gap." The track from this point to +the junction of Warroul and Parallel Creeks with the river (where the +camp was pitched) was very winding, from having to avoid the basalt, +which was laming some of the cattle, besides wrenching off the heads +of the horse-shoe nails: it could not be altogether avoided, and +made it past noon before the cattle reached the camp. A native +companion, a rock wallaby, and a young red kangaroo were the result +of the hunting in the afternoon, which saved the necessity of having +to kill a beast: this would have been specially inconvenient, if not +impossible here, for the natives had burnt all the grass, and there +was not a bite of feed for either horses or cattle, had they halted. +About 50 blacks, all men, followed the tracks of the party from +Cawana Swamp: they were painted, and fully armed, which indicated a +disposition for a "brush" with the white intruders; on being turned +upon, however, they thought better of it, and ran away. The camp was +formed under a red stony bluff, which received the name of +"Cowderoy's Bluff," after one of the party; whilst a large round hill +bearing E.N.E. from the camp was called "Barney's Nob." In the +afternoon Mr. Binney and Eulah were sent to the river to fish, but as +they ate all the caught, there was no gain to the party. For this +their lines were taken from them by Mr. Jardine, and they got a +"talking to," the necessity for which was little creditable to the +white man. The thermometer at 5 a.m. stood at 80 degrees. The day's +stage about 10 miles N.N.W. Some banksias, currijong, and +stringy-bark were noticed to-day, the latter is not a common timber +in the northern districts. + +'October' 17.--All the horses were away this morning: as might +have been expected, the poor hungry creatures had strayed back +towards the good feed on Cawana Swamp, and were found 5 miles from +the camp. The day's stage was the worst they had yet had. The +country down Parallel Creek has already been described, and it took +six of the party five hours to get the cattle over three-and-a-half +miles of ground: the bed of the creek, by which alone they could +travel was intersected every 300 or 400 yards by bars formed of +granite boulders, some of which were from 25 to 30 feet high, and +their interstices more like a quarry than anything else; over these +the cattle had to be driven in two and sometimes three lots, and were +only travelled 8 miles with great difficulty. There were several +casualties; "Lucifer," one of the best of the horses cut his foot so +badly, as to make it uncertain whether he could be fetched on; and +two unfortunate cows fell off the rocks, and were smashed to pieces. +The cows were beginning to calve very fast, and when the calves were +unable to travel, they had to be destroyed, which made the mothers +stray from the camp to where they had missed them; one went back in +this manner the previous night, but it was out of the question to +ride thirty miles after her over the stones they had traversed. The +camp was made in the bed of Parallel Creek, at a spot where there was +a little grass, the whole stage having been almost without any. Here +the basaltic wall was over 80 feet in height, hemming them in from +the west; on some parts during the day it closed in on both sides. +An observation at night made the latitude 17 degrees 51 minutes. A +curious fishwas caught to-day--it had the appearance of a cod, +whose head and tail had been drawn out, leaving the body round. +(Camp VIII.) + +'October', 18.--Another severe stage, still down the bed of +Parallel Creek, from which indeed there was no issue. Frank Jardine +describes it as a "pass or gorge, through the range which abuts on +each side through perpendicular cliffs, filling it up with great +blocks of stone," and adding that "a few more days of similar country +would bring their horses to a standstill." Their backs and the feet +of the cattle were in a woeful plight from its effects: one horse +was lost, and a bull and several head of cattle completely knocked +up. Bad as yesterday's journey was, this day's beat it; they managed +to travel ten miles over the most villanous country imaginable, with +scarcely a vestage of grass, when the camp was again pitched in the +bed of the creek. A large number of natives were seen to-day--one +mob was disturbed at a waterhole, where they were cooking fish, which +they left in their alarm, together with their arms. The spears were +the first that had been observed made of reed, and a stone tomahawk +was seen, as large as the largest-sized American axe. These blacks +were puny wretched-looking creatures, and very thin. They had a +great number of wild dogs with them--over thirty being counted by +the party. 10 miles, N.W. by W. 1/2 W. (Camp IX.) + +'October' 19.--The confluence of Parallel Creek with the Einasleih +was reached in four miles, after which the country on the river +slightly improved; the camp was pitched four miles further on, on a +river flat, within sight of a large scrub, on the east side. Four of +the cattle that had been knocked up yesterday were sent for before +starting, and fetched--the cattle counted and found correct. The +river at the camp was about 700 yards wide, with fine waterholes in +it, containing plenty of fish. A strange discovery was made to-day. +At a native fire the fresh remains of a negro were found 'roasted', +the head and thigh bones were alone complete, all the rest of the +body and limbs had been broken up, the skull was full of blood. +Whether this was the body of an enemy cooked for food, or of a friend +disposed of after the manner of their last rites, must remain a +mystery, until the country and its denizens become better known. +Some spears were found pointed with sharp pieces of flint, fastened +on with kangaroo sinews, and the gum of the Xanthorea, or grass-tree. +(Camp X.) + +'October' 20.--The last of the stony ground was travelled over +to-day, and the foot-sore cattle were able to luxuriate in the soft +sandy ground of the river flats. At about 6 miles Galaa Creek was +crossed at Alexander Jardine's marked tree (V in a square), and the +Rocky Island at its junction, before mentioned, were seen. At this +point the ranges come into the river on each side. The camp was +pitched at about five miles further on, at a fine waterhole, where +there was good grass--a welcome change for cattle and horses. It +was not reached, however, till about 9 o'clock. The river afforded +the party some fine fish--cod, perch, and peel, and a lobster +weighing more than half-a-pound. Its channels were very numerous, +making altogether nearly a mile in width. Scrub was in sight during +the whole of the stage, the crests of the broken ridges being covered +with garrawon. (Camp XI.) + +'October' 21.--Mr. Jardine describes to-day's stage as the best the +cattle had experienced since taking delivery of them 230 miles back; +the river banks along which they travelled were flat and soft, +lightly timbered with box, poplar-gum and bloodwood. From a low +table-topped range, which they occasionally sighted on the right, +spurs of sandstone ran into the river at intervals, but were no +obstruction. A cow had to be abandoned knocked up. A couple of +blacks were surprised in the river spearing fish; they set up a howl, +and took to the river. In the evening the whole of the party went +fishing for the pot, there being no meat left. (Camp XII.) Distance +11 miles. The weather to-day was cloudy for the first time, shewing +appearance of rain. + +'October' 22.--The river was travelled down for 10 miles, through +similar and better country than that of yesterday's stage, and the +camp established on a deep narrow well-watered creek, +three-quarters-of-a-mile from its junction with the river. Here the +Leader determined to halt for a few days to recruit the strength of +the horses and cattle, the feed being good; many of the cattle were +lame, two of the hacks were knocked up, and several of the +pack-horses had very sore backs, so that a "spell" was a necessity. +They were now 120 miles from Macdonald's station, having averaged ten +miles a-day since the start + +'October' 23.--The camp was established at this point (Camp XIII.) +pending a reconnaissance by the Leader and his brother to find the +Lynd of Leichhardt, and determine the best line of road for the +stock. A couple of calves were killed, cut up, and jerked, whilst +some of the party employed themselves in the repairs to the saddlery, +bags, etc., and Alexander Jardine took a look at the country back +from the river. Mr. Richardson plotted up his course, when it was +found that it differed from that of the brothers by only one mile in +latitude, and two in longitude; he also furnished the Leader with his +position on the chart, telling him that the Lynd must be about ten +miles N.E. of them, their latitude being 17 degrees 34 minutes 32 +seconds S.* + +[footnote] *In Mr. Richardson's journal he mentions the distances as +18 to 20. He also explains that he had two maps, in which a +difference of 30 miles in longitude existed in the position of their +starting point. Not having a Chronometer to ascertain his longitude +for himself, he adopted that assigned by the tracing furnished from +the Surveyor-General's Office. + +'October' 24.--The brothers started this morning, taking with them +Eulah, as the most reliable of the black-boys; they were provisioned +for five days. The cattle were left in charge of Mr. Scrutton: the +feed being good and water plentiful, the halt served the double +purpose of recruiting their strength, and allowing the Leader to +choose the best road for them. Steering N.E. by E. at a mile, they +passed through a gap in the low range of table-topped hills of red +and white sandstone which had been skirted on the way down: through +this gap a small creek runs into the river, which they ran up, +N.N.E., 3 miles further, on to a small shallow creek, with a little +water in it. Travelling over lightly-timbered sandy ridges, barren +and scrubby, but without stone, at 9 or 10 miles they crossed the +head of a sandy creek, rising in a spring, about 60 yards wide, +having about 5 or 6 inches of water in it. The creek runs through +mimosa and garrawon scrub for 5 miles, and the spring occurs on the +side of a scrubby ridge, running into the creek from the west. At 18 +miles they struck an ana-branch having some fine lagoons in it, and +half-a-mile further on a river 100 yards wide, waterless, and the +channels filled up with melaleuca and grevillea; this, though not +answering to Leichhardt's description, they supposed to be an +ana-branch of the Lynd; its course was north-west. They followed its +left bank down for three miles, then crossing it, they bore N.N.E. +for four miles, through level and sometimes flooded country, when +their course was arrested by a line of high ridges, dispelling the +idea that they were on the Lynd waters. Turning west they now +travelled back to the river, and crossing it, camped on one of the +same chain of lagoons which they first struck in the morning, and in +which they were able to catch some fish for supper. The distance +travelled was 28 miles. + +'October' 25.--It was impossible to believe that the stream they +were now camped on was the Lynd. Leichhardt's description at the +point where they had supposed that they should strike it, made it +stony and timbered with iron-bark and box. Now, since leaving the +Einasleih they had not seen a single box or iron-bark tree, or a +stone. Frank Jardine therefore determined to push out to thenorth-east, +and again seek this seemingly apocryphal stream. After travelling +for eight miles through sandy ridges, scrubby and timbered with +blood-wood, messmate, and melaleuca (upright-leaved) they struck a +sandy creek, bearing north; this they followed for five miles, when +it turned due west, as if a tributary of the stream they had left in +the morning. Having seen no water since then, it was out of the +question to attempt bringing the cattle across at this point. It was +determined therefore that they should return and mark a line from the +Einasleih to the lagoons they had camped on last night, along which +cattle could travel slowly, whilst the brothers again went forward to +look for a better road from that point, and ascertain definitely +whether they were on the Lynd or not. Turning west they travelled 28 +miles to the creek they had left in the morning, striking it more +than 40 miles below their camp, when, to their surprise it was found +running nearly due south and still dry. Here they camped and caught +some fish and maramies (cray-fish) by puddling a hole in the creek, +which, with three pigeons they shot, made a good supper. At night a +heavy thunder-storm broke over them, which lasted from 9 till 12. +Frank Jardine here states himself to have been exceedingly puzzled +between Leichhardt and Mr. Richardson; one or the other of these he +felt must be wrong. Leichhardt describes the stream in that latitude +(page 283 Journal) as stony, and with conical hills of porphyry near +the river banks, "Bergues" running into it on each side. They had +not seen a rise even, in any direction for miles, whilst the creek +presented only occasional rocks of flat water-worn sandstone, and the +screw-palm 'Pandanus Spiralis' occurred in all the water-courses, a +tree that from its peculiarity would scarcely have been unnoticed or +undescribed. As it was quite unlikely that he should have +misrepresented the country, the natural presumption was, that Mr. +Richardson must have been in error as to their true position; this +was in reality the case, the error in his assumed longitude at +starting causing his reckoning to overlap the Lynd altogether. This +is easily seen and explained now, but was at that time a source of +great uncertainty and anxiety to the explorers. + +'October' 26.--Crossing over to the west bank of the river, the +brothers followed it up the whole day along its windings, the general +course being from South-east to East for above 36 miles. They saw +none of the porphyry cliffs described by Leichhardt, or stone of any +kind. The country traversed, consisted of scrubby flats, and low +sandy ridges, timbered with bloodwood, messmate, mimosa, melaleuca, +grevillea, and two or three species of the sterculia or curriijong, +then in full blossom. Thick patches of a kind of tree, much +resembling brigalow in its appearance and grain, were seen on the +river banks; but the box, apple-gum, and iron-bark, mentioned by +Leichhardt as growing in this latitude were altogether wanting. +Large ant-hills, as much as 15 feet in height, which were frequent, +gave a remarkable appearance to the country. During their stage the +party came on to a black's camp, where they found some matters of +interest. The natives, who were puddling a waterhole for fish, had, +as was most frequent, decamped at their appearance, leaving them +leisure to examine some very neatly made reed spears, tipped +variously with jagged hardwood, flint, fish-bones, and iron; pieces +of ship's iron were also found, and a piece of saddle girth, which +caused some speculation as to how or where it had been obtained, and +proving that they must at some time have been on the tracks of white +men. Their nets excited some admiration, being differently worked to +any yet seen, and very handsome; a sort of chain without knots. The +camp was made on an ana-branch of the river, were the travellers +caught a couple of cod-fish. Their expertness as fishermen was a +great stand-by, for they had started without any ration of meat. +They experienced some heavy wind and a thunderstorm at night. + +'October' 27.--Still travelling up the river, the party in about 9 +miles reached the lagoons where they were first struck, and turned +out for a couple of hours. There was good feed round them, in which +the horses solaced themselves, whilst their riders caught some fish +and shot some pigeons for dinner, after which they commenced blazing +the line for the cattle. They reached the main camp at 9 o'clock at +night, having in eight hours marked a line through the best of the +sandy tea-tree ridges, between 18 and 20 miles in length; no +despicable work for three tomahawks. Mr. Jardine communicated the +result of his trip to Mr. Richardson, but that gentleman could or +would not acquiesce in the opinion arrived at by the brothers, +despite the very conclusive arguments with which it was supported. +This opposition occasioned a feeling of want of confidence, which +caused them to cease consulting Mr. Richardson on their course, +leaving him merely to carry out the duty of his appointment. + +'October' 28.--The following day was spent in camp, preparatory to +a fresh start ahead of the cattle, which, it was decided should leave +this camp on the 31st. Some of them could scarcely move, but their +number were found correct on counting. + +'October' 29.--Again taking old Eulah with them, the brothers +started on another quest for the Lynd, which, like the mirage of the +desert, seemed to recede from them as they approached; setting out +late in the day, they camped at night once more on the lagoon, at the +end of their marked-tree line, a distance of about 18 miles. They +took with them four days' rations of flour, tea, and sugar, trusting +to their guns and fishing lines for their supply of meat. + +'October' 30.--Starting at half-past 6 in the morning the little +party steered N. by W. about 36 miles. At about three-quarters +of-a-mile from the river they passed a fine lagoon, and at four miles +further on a rocky creek running west with some water in it. Their +way lay over soft, barren, sandy ridges, timbered with tea-tree. +Eight miles more brought them to a creek where water could be +obtained by digging, and at 24 miles further they camped on a large +well-watered creek, running N.W.; the whole of the distance was over +the same soft, barren, monotonous country. On their way they killed +an iguana ('Monitor Gouldii'), which made them a good supper, and +breakfast next morning. The cattle party at No. 13 Camp were left +with instructions to follow slowly along the marked-tree line, to +camp at the lagoon, and there await the return of the advance party. + +'October' 31.--An early start was made this morning at a quarter +after 6, and 20 or 22 miles were accomplished on the same bearing as +that of yesterday, N. by W., over the same heavy barren stringy-bark +country. Three small creeks were crossed, but not a hill or rise was +to be seen, or any indication of a river to the northward. At this +point the heavy travelling beginning to tell on their jaded horses, +the Leader determined on abandoning the idea of bringing the cattle +by the line they had traversed, and turning south and by west made +for the river they had left in the morning, intending to ascertain if +it would be the better route for the cattle, and if not, to let them +travel down the supposed Lynd (which now received the name of +Byerley Creek), on which they were to rendezvous. After travelling +16 miles further on the new bearing, they camped without water, being +unable to reach the large creek they had camped on the previous +night. The country along the last course was of the same +description, low, sandy, string-bark, and tea-tree ridges, without a +vestige of water; total distance 38 miles. + +'November' 1.--Making another early start, and steering S.W. by S., +the party reached the creek in four miles, and getting a copious +drink for themselves and their thirsty horses, breakfasted off some +"opossums and rubbish" they got out of a black's camp. The stream +was 100 yards wide, and well-watered, a great relief after their arid +journey of yesterday: large rocks of sandstone occurred inits bed in +different places. Crossing it, they followed down its left bank for +8 miles, its trend being N.W., then turning their back on it, they +steered due south to strike Byerley Creek. Sixteen miles of weary +travelling over wretched barren country brought them to a small sandy +creek, on which they camped, procuring water for their horses by +digging in its bed. Here they made a supper of the lightest, their +rations being exhausted, and "turned in" somewhat disgusted with the +gloomy prospect for the progress of the cattle. They again met with +the nonda of Leichhardt, and ate of its ripe fruit, which is best +when found dry under the trees. Its taste is described as like that +of a boiled mealy potatoe. + +'November' 2.--Continuing on the same course, due south for 18 +miles, over the same useless country, the party reached Byerley +Creek, striking it at a point 32 miles below the Rendezvous Camp, +then turning up its course they followed it for 16 miles, to their +hunting camp of the 26th October. Here they camped and made what +they deemed a splendid supper off an oppossum, an iguana, and four +cod-fish, the result of their day's sport. Total distance travelled +28 miles. + +'November' 3.--Following up the creek for 16 miles, the party +reached the main camp on the lagoons early in the day. Here they +found all right, with the exception that most of the party were +suffering from different stages of sandy-blight, or ophthalmia. A +calf was killed, and the hungry vanguard were solaced with a good +feed of veal. Byerley Creek having been found utterly destitute of +grass, badly watered, and moreover trending ultimately to the S. of +W., the Leader determined to take the cattle on to the next, which +was well watered, having some feed on it, and being on the right +course. There were, however, two long stages without water; but it +was, on the whole, the best and almost only course open to him. The +cattle had made this camp in two stages from the Einasleih. It was, +consequently, No. LI. The latitude was found to be 17 degrees 23 +minutes 24 seconds: a tree was marked with these numbers, in +addition to the usual initial and numbers. The Thermometer at +daylight marked 90 degrees, and at noon 103 degrees, in the 'shade!' + +'November' 4.--A late start was made to-day, a number of the horses +having strayed, and not having been got in. The Brothers went ahead, +and marked a line for five miles out to the creek mentioned on the +30th October: it contained sufficient water for the horses and +cattle, and was the best watercourse they would get until they +reached the next river, a distance of 30 miles. It received the name +of "Belle Creek," in remembrance of "Belle," one of their best +horses, who died at this camp, apparantly from a snake bite, the +symptoms being the same as in the case of "Dora," but the time +shorter. Belle Creek is rocky and tolerably well watered, and +remarkable for the number of nonda trees on it. Whilst waiting for +the cattle the Brothers caught some fish and a fine lot of maramies. + +'November' 5.--This day appears to have been one of disasters. It +opened with the intelligence that sixteen of the horses were missing. +Leaving one party to seek and bring on the stray horses, the Brothers +started the cattle forward: they left instructions at the camp for +the horses to start, if recovered before 3 o'clock; if not, to be +watched all night, and brought on the next day. They then started, +and preceding the cattle, marked a line for 15 miles to "Maroon +Creek." Here they camped without water, waiting with some anxiety +for the arrival of the pack-horses. Hour after hour passed but none +appeared, and as night closed in, the Brothers were forced to the +conclusion that something must have gone wrong at the camp. They +could not however turn back, as they had to mark the next day's stage +for the cattle to water, there being none for them to-night, and only +a little for the party, obtained by digging, however, they were +relieved by the appearance of a blackboy with rations, who reported +that some of the horses had not been found when he left the camp. +The night was spent in watching the thirsty cattle. + +'November' 6.--The cattle were started at dawn and driven on to the +watered creek, where they got feed and water at some fine waterholes, +it received the name of "Cockburn Creek;" the Brothers as usual +preceded them and marked a line further ahead. Arrived there, they +spent the rest of the day in fishing whilst uneasily waiting the +arrival of the pack-horses. They luckily caught some fish for +supper, for night fell without the appearance of the remainder of the +party, and they had nothing to eat since the preceding night. The +country has already been described. + +'November' 7.--To-day was spent in camp by the party whilst +anxiously awaiting the arrival of the pack-horses, but night fell +without their making their appearance. They had nothing to eat, and +as there was no game to be got, they decided on killing a calf, but +in this they were disappointed, as the little animal eluded them, and +bolted into the scrub. They therefore had to go "opossuming," and +succeeding in catching three, which, with a few small fish, formed +their supper. + +'November' 8.--At daylight this morning, Alexander Jardine +succeeded in "potting" the calf that had eluded them yesterday, which +gave the party a satisfactory meal. Another anxious day was passed +without the arrival of the pack-horses, and the Leader had the +annoyance of finding on counting the cattle, that between twenty or +thirty were missing. Being now seriously anxious about the +pack-horses, he determined if they did not arrive that night, to +despatch his brother to look after them. + +'November' 9.--The horses not having arrived, Alexander Jardine +started to see what had happened: he met the party with them half +way, and learned some heavy news. In the afternoon of the 5th (the +day on which the Brothers started with the cattle), the grass around +the camp had, by some culpable carelessness, been allowed to catch +fire, by which half their food and nearly all their equipment were +burnt. The negligence was the more inexcusable, as before starting, +Alexander Jardine had pulled up the long grass around the tents at +the camp, which should have put them on their guard against such a +contingency, one for which even less experienced bushmen are supposed +to be watchful during the dry season. The consequences were most +disastrous: resulting in the destruction of 6 bags of flour, or 70 +lbs. each, or 420 lbs., all the tea save 10 lbs., the mule's pack, +carrying about 100 lbs. of rice and jam, apples, and currants, 5 lbs. +gun-powder, 12 lbs. of shot, the amunition box, containing cartridges +and caps, two tents, one packsaddle, twenty-two pack-bags, 14 +surcingles, 12 leather girths, 6 breechings, about 30 ring +pack-straps, 2 bridles, 2 pairs blankets, 2 pairs of boots, nearly +all the black boys' clothes, many of the brothers', and 2 bags +containing nicknacks, awls, needles, twine, etc., for repairs. It +was providential the whole was not burnt, and but for the exertions +of Mr. Scrutton, all the powder would have gone. He is described as +having snatched some of the canisters from the fire with the solder +melting on the outside. They had succeeded in rescuing the little +that was saved by carrying it to a large ant-hill to, windward. +Their exertions were no doubt great and praise-worthy, but a little +common prudence would have saved their necessity, and a heavy and +irreparable loss to the whole party, one which might have jeopardized +the safety of the expedition. Besides this, they had a less +important but still serious loss; "Maroon," a valuable grey sire +horse, that Mr. Jardine hoped to take to the new settlement, died +from the effects of poison, or of a snake bite, but more probably the +former. The pack-horses joined the cattle in the evening. Stock was +taken of the articles destroyed, and the best disposition made of +what remained. The latitude of this camp (XVIII.) was 16 degrees 55 +minutes 6 seconds. + +'November' 10.--Leaving instructions with the cattle party to +follow down Cockburn Creek, and halt at the spots marked for them, +the Brothers, accompanied by Eulah, started ahead, to mark the camps +and examine the country. By this means no time was lost. The first +three camps were marked at about seven-mile intervals; and at about +25 miles, opposite two small lagoons on the west bank, the Leader +marked trees STOP (in heart), on either side the creek, leaving +directions for the party to halt till he returned, and a mile further +down camped for the night. The banks of the creek were scrubby and +poorly grassed, the country sandy, and thickly timbered with +tea-tree, stringy-bark, and bloodwood, and a few patches of +silver-leaved iron-bark, the nondas being very plentiful along its +course. Large flocks of cockatoo parrots ('Nymphicus Nov. Holl.') +and galaas were seen during the day. + +'November' 11.--Still continuing down the creek the party made a +short stage of 13 miles, one of their horses having become too sick +to travel. The early halt gave them an opportunity to go hunting, +the more necessary as they were again out of meat. The result was an +iguana, a bandicoot, three opossums, and some "sugar bags" or wild +honey nests. + +'November' 12.--Crossing Cockburn Creek the Brothers bore away +N.N.W. for 9 or 10 miles, over sandy bloodwood ridges, intersected +with broad tea-tree gullies, to two sandy water courses half-a-mile +apart, the first 100 and the second 50 yards in width, running west. +These they supposed to be heads of the Mitchell. Crossing them and +continuing N. by W., they traversed over barren tea-tree levels +(showing flood marks from three to four feet high), without a blade +of grass, for about 16 miles, when they reached the extreme head of a +small rocky creek, where they camped at a waterhole, and caught a +great number of maramies, which suggested the name of "Maramie +Creek." It was quite evident that the cattle could not follow by +this route, as there was nothing for them to eat for nearly the whole +distance. The stage travelled was 26 1/2 miles. + +'November' 13.--Maramie Creek was followed down for 25 miles: its +general course is west. At three miles from the start a small creek +runs in from the north-east. The Brothers had hoped that the +character of the country would improve as they went down, but were +disappointed. Nothing but the same waste of tea-tree and spinifex +could be seen on either side, the bank of the main creek alone +producing bloodwood, stringy-bark, acacia, and nonda. Though shallow +it was well watered, and increased rapidly in size as they proceeded. +The natives had poisoned all the fish in the different waterholes +with the bark of a small green acacia that grew along the banks, but +the party succeeded in getting a few muscles and maramies. + +'November' 14.--Being satisfied that the cattle could not be +brought on by the course they had traversed, Frank Jardine determined +to leave Maramie Creek, and make for the large stream crossed on the +12th, so as to strike it below the junction of Cockburn Creek. +Turning due south the party passed a swamp at eight miles, and at +seventeen miles a lagoon, on which were blue lilies ('Nymphoea +gigantea.') A mile farther on they reached what they supposed to be +the Mitchell, which was afterwards ascertained to be the Staaten, of +the Dutch navigators, or one of its heads. At the point where they +struck it (about 18 miles below the junction of Cockburn Creek, it is +nearly a quarter-of-a-mile in width, sandy, with long waterholes. A +dense black tea-tree scrub occupies its south bank. It was here that +the party experienced the first decided show of hostility from the +natives. They had seen and passed a number at the lily lagoon +unmolested, but when arrived at the river whilst the leader was +dismounted in its bed, fixing the girths of his saddle, he was +surprised to find himself within 30 yards of a party carrying large +bundles of reed spears, who had come upon him unperceived. They +talked and gesticulated a great deal but made no overt hostility, +contenting themselves with following the party for about three miles +throughscrub, as they proceeded along the river. Getting tired of +this noisy pursuit, which might at any moment end in a shower of +spears, the Brothers turned on reaching a patch of open ground, +determined that some of their pursuers should not pass it. This +movement caused them to pause and seeming to think better of their +original intention they ceased to annoy or follow the little party, +which pursued its way for five miles further, when they camped in the +bed of the stream. Its character for the 8 miles they had followed +it up was scrubby and sandy: its course nearly west--long gullies +joined it from each side walled with sandstone. They caught two +turtles for supper. Total distance travelled 26 miles. + +'November 15.--Making an early start, the party followed up the +Staaten for eight miles, the general course being about N.E. Here it +was jointed by Cockburn creek, which they ran up until they reached +the cattle party encamped at the lagoons, where the Leader had marked +trees STOP. They had reached this place on the 13th inst., without +further accident or disaster, and seeing the trees, camped as +instructed. It was nearly 30 miles from the junction of the Staaten, +the country scrubby, thickly timbered, and very broken. Total +distance 38 miles. + +'November' 16.--The whole party was moved down Cockburn Creek, that +being the only practicable route. It was the alternative of poor +grass or no grass. The trend of the creek was about N.W. by W. At +twelve miles they encamped on its bed. A red steer and a cow were +left behind poisoned; and another horse, "Marion" was suffering +severely from the same cause. They were unable to detect the plant +which was doing so much mischief, which must be somewhat plentiful in +this part of the country. Leichhardt mentions (page 293) the loss of +Murphy's pony on the Lynd, which was found on the sands, "with its +body blown up, and bleeding from the nostrils." Similar symptoms +showed themselves in the case of the horses of this expedition, +proving pretty clearly that the deaths were caused by some noxious +plant. (Camp XXIII.) + +'November' 17.--The course was continued down Cockburn Creek. At +six miles a large stream runs in from the S.E. which was supposed to +be Byerley Creek. This however is only an assumption, and not very +probable, as it will be remembered that when the brothers struck it +on the 1st November, 40 miles below camp 15, they were surprised to +find it trending toward the south. It is not improbable that it may +run into the sea between the Staaten and Gilbert. This problem can +only be solved when the country gets more occupied, or some explorer +traces the Staaten in its whole length. Below this junction Cockburn +Creek is from 200 to 300 yards wide, running in many channels, but +under the surface. The country is flat and poorly grassed, a low +sandy ridge occasionally running into the creek. The timber is +bloodwood, string-bark, tea-tree, nonda, and acacia. The party +camped 5 miles further down; poor "Marion" being now past all hope of +recovery had to be abandoned. Three cows that calved at camp 22 were +sent for and brought up. They were kept safely all night, but during +the morning watch, were allowed to escape by Barney. At this camp +(XXIV.) Scrutton was bitten in two or three places by a scorpion, +without however any very severe effects. + +'November' 18.--Cockburn Creek, now an important stream was +followed down for four miles, when it formed a junction with the +Staaten. The width of the main stream is about 400 yards, in many +channels sandy and dry. It now runs generally west and very winding. +The country and timber were much as before described, with the +exception that a mile back from the river, (a chain of lagoons) +generally occurs, some of them being large and deep and covered with +lilies. Beyond, a waste of sandy tea-tree levels, thickly covered +with triodia or spinifex, and other desert grasses. The green tree +ant was very numerous, particularly in the nonda trees, where they +form their nests. The birds were also very numerous, large flocks of +black cockatoos, cockatoo parrots, galaas, budgerygars or grass +parrots ('Melopsittacus Undulatus, Gould'), and some grey quail were +frequently seen, and on one of the lagoons a solitary snipe was +found. Another cow was abandoned to-day. The total day's stage was +8 miles. The party camped in the sandy bed of the river. A little +rain was experienced at night. (Camp XXV.) Latitude 16 degrees 32 +minutes 14 seconds. + +'November' 19.--The party followed down parallel with the Staaten, +so as to avoid the scrub and broken sandstone gullies on the banks. +They travelled for 11 miles, and camped on one of the lagoons above +mentioned. Their course was somewhat to the south of west, so that +they were no nearer to their destination--an annoying reflection. +In the afternoon some of the party went over to the river to fish. +At this spot it had narrowed to a width of 100 yards, was clear of +fallen trees and snags, the water occupying the whole width, but only +5 feet deep. Up to this time, Frank Jardine had supposed the stream +they were on to be the Mitchell, but finding its course so little +agreeing with Leichhardt's description of it, below the junction of +the Lynd, which is there said to run N.W., he was inclined to the +conclusion that they had not yet reached that river. Mr. Richardson, +on the contrary, remained firm in his opinion that Byerley Creek was +the river Lynd, and consequently, that this stream was the Mitchell, +nor was it till they reached the head of the tide that he was fully +convinced of his error. (See his journal November 18, and December +2.) + +'November' 20.--To-day the Leader went forward and chose a good +camp, 12 miles on, at some fine lagoons. The cattle followed, +keeping, as usual, back from the river, the interval to which was all +scrubby flooded ground, thickly covered with brush and underwood. +They were however unable to reach the camp that night, for when +within three miles of it a heavy deluge of rain compelled them to +halt, and pitch the tents to protect the rations, all the oilskin +coverings that had been provided for the packs having been destroyed +in the bonfire, on Guy-Faux Day, at camp No. 16. They could hardly +have been caught in a worse place, being on the side of a scrubby +ridge, close to one of the ana-branches of the river. It would seem +that the natives calculated on taking them at a disadvantage, for +they chose this spot for an attack, being the first instance in which +they attempted open hostility. Whilst the Brothers were busily +engaged in cutting out a "sugar bag," a little before sundown, they +heard an alarm in the camp, and a cry of "here come the niggers." +Leaving their 'sweet' occupation, they re-joined the party, in front +of which about 20 blacks were corroboreeing, probably to screw up +their courage. They had craft enough to keep the sun, which was now +low, at their backs, and taking advantage of this position sent in a +shower of spears, without any of the party--not even the black-boys +--being aware of it, until they saw them sticking in the ground +about them. No one was hit, but several had very narrow shaves. The +compliment was returned, and as Alexander Jardine describes "'exeunt' +warriors," who did not again molest them, although they were heard +all around the camp throughout the night. (Camp XXVII.) Course W. +Distance 9 miles. A heavy thunderstorm in the evening. + +'November' 21.--The cattle were started as usual, but as ill-luck +would have it, 13 of the horses were not to be found. After waiting +for them till four o'clock, all the packs and riding-saddles were +packed on the remaining horses, and the party drove them on foot +before them to the camp, at the lagoons, three miles on. It was dark +before they got there, and well into the second watch before the +tents were pitched, and everything put straight. The country +continued the same as before described, a barren waste of tea-tree +levels to the north, obliging them to keep along the river, although +at right angles to their proper course. (Camp XXVIII.) Distance 3 +miles W. + +'November 22.--The troubles and adventures of the party seemed to +thicken at this point, where the cattle were detained, whilst the +missing horses were being sought for. Old Eulah had come in late the +preceding night empty-handed, he had seen their tracks, but night +coming on he was unable to follow them. He was started away this +morning in company with Peter to pick up and run the trail. At two +o'clock he returned with two, and reported that Peter was on the +trail of the others. They had evidently been disturbed by their +friends the natives, for their tracks were split up, and those +brought on had their hobbles broken. At dusk Peter brought home +three more, without being able to say where the others had got to. +During this time, Frank Jardine had a little adventure to himself; +wishing to find a better run for the cattle, he started about noon, +and rode down the river for about six miles. There was no choice, +the country was all of the same description, so he turned back in +disgust, when, in crossing the head of a sandstone gully, he heard a +yell, and looked round just in time to see a half a dozen spears come +at him, and about a dozen natives around and painted, jumping about +in great excitement. Going forward a little, he got time to clear +the lock of his rifle, from the oil rag which usually protected it. +He turned on his assailants, and sent a bullet amongst them; it hit a +tree instead of a blackfellow, but as they still menaced him, his +next shot was more successful, when seeing one of their number fall, +the rest decamped. It was now their turn to run, but before they +could cross the bed of the river, which was dry, clear, and about 300 +yards wide, he was able to get two good shots at short range. They +did not trouble him again that afternoon. They dropped all their +spears in the "stampede," some of which, reed and jagged, were taken +home as trophies. They used no "wommerahs." Peter came in to camp +at dark, with 3 horses, having no idea where the others had got to; +there were 8 still away. + +'November' 23.--Sambo, the best tracker among the black-boys, was +despatched at sunrise, with Peter, to look for the missing horses. +He returned at sundown with the mule, which he had found on the +opposite side of the river, but he had seen no traces of the rest. +Peter came in after dark, without any, he had seen the tracks of the +natives on the horse tracks, and related in his own jargon, that +"blackfella bin run'em horses all about" and "that bin brok'em +hobble." He had also seen two or three of the blacks themselves, at +the lagoon where the brothers met them on the 14th, and had some +parley with them--he described them a "cawbawn saucy" "that tell'im +come on, me trong fella, you little fella," and after chaffing him in +their own way, sent as many spears at him as he would stand for. The +detention caused by the loss of the horses, was a serious matter, +whilst the hostility of the natives was very annoying, keeping the +party constantly on the alert. The interval was occupied in patching +up the ration tent, with portions of the other two, so that they had +now one water-proof to protect their stores. Some good snipe and +duck shooting might have been got round these lagoons, but as nearly +all their caps had been destroyed by the fire, it was not to be +thought of. The scarcity of these and of horse-flesh alone prevented +the Brothers from turning out and giving their troublesome enemies a +good drilling, which, indeed, they richly deserved, for they had in +every case been the agressors, and hung about the party, +treacherously waiting for an opportunity to take them by surprise. +The detention also was due to them, which was a matter of some +anxiety to the Leader, when it is considered that the party was in a +level flooded country, without a rise that they knew of within fifty +miles, and that the rains of the last ten days portended the breaking +up the dry season. + +'November' 24.--This morning Frank Jardine went out with Eulah, and +succeded in finding 5 more of the horses, scattered all over the +country, their hobbles broken, and as wild as hawks. He sent Eulah +along the tracks of the last two, who were evidently not far ahead, +and brought the others in himself. These two "Cerebus" and "Creamy," +were the best and fattest of the pack-horses. Their loss would have +made a serious addition to the loads of the remainder, who had +already to share 400lbs. Extra in consequence of the poisoning of the +three already lost. Whilst waiting for and expecting their arrival +every hour, the different members of the party amused themselves as +best they might by fishing, opossum, sugar-bag hunting, and nonda +gathering. The monotony of the camp was also broken by a little +grumbling, consequent on an order from the Leader against the opening +of the next week's ration bag. The party had, during the halt +consumed a week's rations a day and a-half too soon, hence the order, +which was a wise precaution. The rations were calculated with care +to last through the journey, but, unless a restriction had been +placed on the consumption, this could not be hoped for. But it is +difficult to reason with hungry men. + +'November' 25.--Another day passed without finding the two missing +horses. Sambo and Eulah were sent out in quest of them, but returned +unsuccessful, giving it, as their opinion that "blackfella bin 'perim +'longa 'crub." Peter and Barney were then despatched with orders to +camp out that night and look for them all next day. A steer having +been killed last night, the day was passed in jerking him. The day +was very unpropitious as there had been a shower of rain in the +morning, and there was no sun, so it had to be smoked with manure in +one of the tents. What with the mosquitoes and sand-flies, men, +horses, and cattle were kept in a continual fever. The horses would +not leave the smoke of the fires, the cattle would not remain on the +camp, and the men could get no rest at night for the mosquitoes, +whilst during the day the flies were in myriads, and a small species +of gad-fly, particularly savage and troublesome. Another source of +annoyance was from the flocks of crows and kites, the latter ('Milvus +Affinis') are described by Leichhardt as being extraordinarily +audacious, during his journey through this part of the country, and +they certainly manifested their reputation now. Not content with the +offal about the camp, they would actually, unless sharply watched, +take the meat that was cooking on the fire. The black-boys killed a +great many with "paddimelon" sticks, and reed spears, (the spoils of +war) but with little effect. "When one was killed, twenty came to +the funeral." Old Eulah was a great proficient in this exercise, and +when in action with his countrymen, was always anxious to throw their +own spears back at them. + +'November' 26.--One of the party went to sleep during his watch last +night, by which fifteen head of cattle were allowed to stray away +from the camp. It was not the first time that this very grave fault +had occurred, the mischief caused by which, can sometimes, hardly be +estimated. In this case, however, it verified the proverb, it is an +ill wind, etc., for whilst looking for the stragglers Frank Jardine +luckily "happened" on the missing horses "Cerebus" and "Creamy" about +7 miles down the river. They had evidently been frightened by the +blacks. Seven of the cattle only were found, leaving eight missing +which was very provoking as it was necessary to shift the camp (on +which they had now been detained six days) for all the stock where +looking miserable. Neither horses nor cattle would eat the grass, +which had ceased to have a trace of green in it, but rambled about +looking for burnt stubble. The day was close and sultry with loud +thunder and bright lightning, which very much frighened the horses. +The natives were heard cooeying all round the camp during the night, +but made no attack, remembering probably the result of the Sunday and +Tuesday previous. + +'November' 27--Everything was ready to pack on the horses before +daylight this morning, but most provokingly "Cerebus" was again +missing. Leaving orders for the partyto start if he was not +recovered before noon, the Leader pushed on to mark a camp for them. +At about three miles he came on to a chain of fine lagoons, running +parallel to and about four miles from the river. The intervening +country was one tea-tree level all flooded, but a narrow strip of +soft sandy flat occurred on the banks of each, timbered with +blood-wood, stringy-bark, and box. Following these down he marked a +camp at about nine miles, then crossed over to the river to look for +the cattle. He had not followed it far when he saw a mob of blacks. +They did not molest him, so he passed them quietly, as he thought, +but about two miles further on, in some scrubby sandstone gullies, as +he was riding along looking for tracks, a spear whistled past, within +six inches of his face. Pulling up, he saw seven natives, all +standing quietly looking on at the effect of the missile: the fellow +who threw it never threw another. Pursuing his way, pondering on the +fatality that had brought about collisions on two Sundays running, he +met the cattle, and found the party in some excitement; they too had +had a shindy. The natives had attacked them in force, but no one was +hurt, whilst some of their assailants were left on the ground, and +others carried away wounded. It was found that they would not stand +after the first charge--and a few were hit. (Camp XXIX.) Distance +9 miles. Course W. by N. + +'November' 28.--All hopes of finding the eight missing head of +cattle, lost from camp 28, had to be abandoned, for the reason that +the horse-flesh could not hold out in looking for them. The cattle +were moved down along the lagoons, which in about two miles narrowed +into a defined creek, sandy, with occasional lagoons. This was +explored ten miles by the Leader, and the question as to whether he +should choose that route, or follow the river was decided for him. +The banks were either utterly barren or clothed with spinifex, and +the country on either side the same worthless tea-tree levels. He +was therefore determined to take the cattle back on to the river, +which was not much better, and led them away from their course. The +prospects of the Brothers were rather dispiriting. To attempt +striking north was out of the question, whilst every mile down the +river took them further away from their destination, and their horses +were falling away daily, so much so, that if the feed did not soon +improve, there would not be one capable of carrying an empty saddle. +The rainy season too was at hand, and the level and flooded nature of +the country they were in, would, were they caught there by the +floods, endanger the safety of the party. It was therefore with no +little anxiety that they watched the weather, and searched for a +practicable line which would allow of their steering north. (Camp +XXX.) Latitude 16 degrees 26 minutes 53 seconds. Distance 10 miles, +W. by N. + +'November' 29.--Keeping a south-west course, so as to strike it +lower down, the cattle were again taken on to the river, which they +reached in about nine miles; then travelling about another mile down +its banks, encamped. These were now decidedly more open, and the +country generally improved. The same strip of soft sandy flat about +half-a-mile wide continued, but better grassed, although the spear +grass was far too common. Bloodwood, stringy-bark, applegum and +acacia timbered the north bank; whilst on the south, tea-tree flats, +covered with spinifex, ran close down to the bed, the bank itself +being of red clay. Two channels, together making a width of about +300 yards, formed the bed, which was sandy, and held very little +water on the surface. No large trees occurred, save now and then a +vagrant nonda. Another cow was lost to-day, and "Lottie," a favorite +terrier, was missing. The latitude of Camp 31 was supposed to be 16 +degrees 31 minutes 53 seconds, but doubtful. + +'November' 30.--The river was followed down to-day for 11 miles. It +was very winding and irregular in its width. At the camp it was only +60 yards wide and running in one channel, whilst a mile above, it +measured nearly 400. Its general course was nearly west. The creek +which is formed by the lagoons, on which the party were so long +detained was crossed at about nine-and-a-half miles. The country at +its junction is flooded for a long distance back, and the river bed +sandy and thickly timbered. Although the country generally had +decidedly improved, inasmuch as that it was more open, devoid of +scrub, and the box flats on the river extending further back on each +side, it was by no means good. The flats were very scantily grassed, +chiefly with sour water grasses and spinifex, and shewed by the flood +marks that they must be quite impassable during floods or wet +weather. The dreary tea-tree levels might be seen in glimpses +through the white box of the flats extending far beyond. Several +small swamps were passed during the day, on which ducks and other +water-fowl were very numerous, the stately native companion stalking +near the margins. The large funnel ant-hills occurred from 2 to 15 +feet high. The Fitzroy wallaby was plentiful, and the Leader shot an +emeu. Some large flights of white ibis, and slate-colored pigeons +passed high overhead, flying north, which might be a good indication. +Peter was sent back to seek for Lottie, but returned in the evening +unsuccessful. + +'December' 1.--Maramie Creek was crossed this morning at its +junction with the river, into which it flows in two channels, about +60 or 70 miles from the point where the brothers first struck it on +the 12th of November, while searching for a road to the northward. +Its total width is about 120 yards. The general course of the river +was slightly to the north of west, but very winding, some of its +reaches extended for nearly four miles. Numerous ana-branches +occurred, the flats separating them, being three miles in breadth, +timbered with flooded box and tea-tree, their banks well grassed. It +would be a dangerous country to be caught in by the floods. Two +parties of blacks were passed fishing on the river, but they took no +notice of the party, and were of course not interfered with. They +used reed spears pointed with four jagged prongs, and also hooks and +lines. Their hooks are made with wood barbed with bone, and the +lines of twisted currejong bark. Distance travelled to-day 10 miles. +The Camp XXXIII. in latitude 16 degrees 27 minutes 30 seconds. + +'December' 2.--The river was travelled down through similar country +for eleven miles, when the party reached the head of the tide, and +camped on a rocky water hole in an ana-branch, the river water not +being drinkable. The course was to the southward of west. It was +now beyond a doubt, even to Mr. Richardson, that this river was not +the Mitchell, for neither its latitude, direction, or description +corresponded with Leichhardt's account. It was also perceived that +the longitude of the starting point must have been incorrect, and +very considerably to the westward, as their reckoning, carefully +checked, brought them much too near the coast. The Brothers +therefore became satisfied of what they had long believed, that they +had never been on the Lynd at all, or even on its watershed, and that +what they were on was an independent stream. They therefore named it +the "Ferguson,' in honor of Sir George Ferguson Bowen, Governor of +Queensland, but there is little doubt that it is the Staaten of the +Dutch navigators, or at least its southern branch. Should a northern +branch eventually be discovered, which the delta and numerous +ana-branches make a probable hypothesis, the stream explored by the +brothers might with propriety retain the name they gave it. At eight +miles from the start the character of the country changed from the +prevailing flats, to a kind of barren sandstone and spenifex ridges. +On pitching the camp the fishing-lines were put into requisition, but +without success. It is remarkable, that on reaching the salt water, +not far from this spot, Leichhardt was similarly disappointed, after +having counted on catching and curing a good quantity of fish, the +whole day's work of Brown and Murphy being "a small siluus, one +mullet, and some guard-fish," 'qu.' gar-fish. + +'December' 3.--To-day's stage was a short one, and was hoped to have +been the last on this miserable river, which was now looked upon as +undoubtedly the Staaten. It had in some measure improved. The +timber was much larger and finer, and the lagoons extensive and deep. +But a heavy storm which came down, and compelled them to camp early, +soon proved what the country would be in the wet season. With this +one heavy fall of rain it became so boggy that the horses sank in up +to their girths. Hitherto the grass had been so scanty that the +party could not halt for a day to kill. They had consequently been +four days without meat. It was determined, therefore, to stop and +kill a beast, preparatory to a start north, the feed having slightly +improved in common with the timber. In addition to the steer that +was slaughtered, a shovel-nosed shark was caught and jerked in like +manner with the beef. In the afternoon Alexander Jardine explored +down the river for seven miles, seeking for a good spot for turning +off. The country still improved: the river was completely salt, and +in one continuous sheet of running water, in two channels 300 or 400 +yards in width, and together about half-a-mile at the spot where he +turned back. Here it was flat and shallow, and fordable at low +water. Mangroves and salt-water creeks commenced as described by +Leichhardt,* and alligator tracks were seen. (Camp XXXV.) Latitude +16 degrees 26 minutes 39 seconds. + +[footnote] *See Journal, page 320. It was at this point that he +threw away his horse-shoes and other heavy articles. + +'December' 4.--The beef, shark, and a few cat-fish were jerked, and +all the stores and loading spread out and re-distributed on the +packs, and as this put the camp into some confusion, the Leader +thought it well to shift it for a few miles, to let the packs shake +into place before the final start. They therefore moved down three +miles to the commencement of the mangroves, into a patch of the best +feed they had seen since they left the Einasleih. At this point the +banks were very soft and sandy, growing spinifex; the stream in +numerous channels, altogether half-a-mile across, and the tide rose +and fell about twenty-two inches. Here they camped, intending to +make an early start on the following morning. Time was now an object +of the utmost importance to the progress, if not to the safety of the +party: Frank Jardine was aware that the Mitchell, which he had hoped +long ere this to have left behind him, was still ahead, at least 40 +miles away, without certainty of water until it was reached, whilst +if caught by the floods he would probably be stopped by this +important stream. It was with some anxiety therefore that he +hastened preparations for the start. How his hopes were deferred and +how fortune seemed to laugh at his endeavours to push forward on his +course will now be narrated, and it will be seen how good bushmen +with high hearts can overcome obstacles, and meet difficulties that +would appal and baffle ordinary travellers. + + + +CHAPTER III. + +Leave the Staaten--Half the horses away--Fresh troubles--Mule +Lost--Sambo knocked up--Search for mule--Perplexity-- +"Lucifer" goes mad--Final attempt to recover him--Marine Plains +--Search for Deceiver--Found dead--Salt Lagoon--Arbor Creek-- +Country improves--Good Camp--Eulah Creek--The Brothers attacked +--Reach the Mitchell--Cow poisoned--Battle of the Mitchell--An +ambush--Extent of flooded Country--Reach head of tide--Heavy +rain--A "Blank run"--Leave the Mitchell--Good Coast Country-- +Balourgah Creek--Blue grass--Banksia--The Eugenia--Green Ant +--Hearsey Creek--Holroyd--Creek Dunsmuir Creek--Thalia Creek +--Black boy chased by natives--Another encounter--Cattle +scattered by thunder-storm--Rainy Season--Macleod Creek-- +Kendall Creek. + +'December' 5.--Turning their backs on the Ferguson or Staaten the +party steered north, and at starting crossed the head of the +sand-flats, described by Leichhardt. The rest of the day's stage was +over sandy ridges covered with tea-tree and pandanus, tolerably +grassed, no creek or water-course of any description occurred along +the line, and the party had to camp without water at about 13 miles: +but as the Leader had not expected to find any at all for at least +40, this was not thought much of. The camp though waterless was well +grassed, and by dint of searching a small pool of slimy green water +was found before dark, about two-and-a-half miles to the N.N.W. in a +small watercourse, and by starting off the black boys, enough was +procured in the "billies" for the use of the party for supper. This +is marked a red day in Frank Jardine's diary, who closes his notes +with this entry. "Distance 13 miles. Course North at last." (Camp +XXXVII.) + +'December' 6.--The satisfaction of the party in getting away from +the Staaten and travelling on the right course was destined to +receive a check, and the Brothers to find they had not yet quite done +with that river. This morning about half the horses were away, and a +worse place for finding them, saving scrub, could hardly be imagined. +It was fortunate that the pool of water mentioned yesterday had been +found, as the cattle would have had to turn back to the river, but +this they were saved from. They were started away for the water at +day-break, in charge of two of the black boys, with instructions to +stay and feed them there until the horses came up or they were +relieved by Binney. No horses coming in, Binney was sent after them. +The Brothers searching for the horses, followed an hour-and-a-half +after, but on arriving at the pool found the cattle and boys but no +Binney. Returning to the camp they instructed the party to shift the +packs to the pool on the twelve horses that had been found. Binney +here came into the camp along the yesterday's tracks. He had missed +the cattle and did not know where he had been to. He was started +again on the cattle track by the Brothers, who then went in search of +more water, sending two more black boys to look for the horses. At +about four miles away they themselves came on to their tracks, which +they ran for about eight miles towards the coast, when they found +six. Continuing to follow the trail they were led to their 35th camp +on the Staaten, when they found three more. Here, as the sun went +down they were obliged to camp, and after short hobbling the horses +laid down by their fire, supperless, and without blankets. They saw +no water through the whole of the day, which was the cause of the +restlessness of the horses the previous night, and of their straying, +in spite of short hobbles. The myriads of mosquitoes too, which now +annoyed them may possibly have contributed to that end. + +'December' 7.--Leaving the nine horses hobbled to feed near the +water the Brothers separated, one taking up and the other down the +river to look for the others, in hopes that they might also have +turned back, but met again in the afternoon, each without success. +Starting back (with the nine recovered yesterday) at about two +o'clock, they returned to the camp, where fresh troubles awaited +them. Only two of the others had been found, and the party with the +pack-horses had succeeded in losing the mule, together with his pack. +Whilst preparing to start they had allowed him to poke away +unperceived in the scrubby timber, and did not miss him till ready to +start. Sambo had been at once despatched on his tracks but had not +yet returned. Binney had lost himself a second time and only +rejoined the camp at dark last night, after having ridden the whole +day, probably in a circle, without finding either horses or water. +The two black boys had been equally unsuccessful. Eulah and Barney +were now despatched with orders to camp out until they found the +missing horses, five of which, besides the mule, still were away. In +the evening Sambo returned quite exhausted for want of water, not +having seen or tasted any, or any food during the too days of his +absence. For an hour after coming into camp he was quite dilirious. +When sufficiently recovered and collected to speak he stated that he +had followed the tracks of the mule (who had evidently been +galloping) through the tea-tree levels, at the back of camp 35, when +he was obliged to turn back for want of water. This accident, the +result of gross carelessness, together with frequent cases of less +importance, induced in the Leader a want of confidence which caused +him great anxiety when away from the party, to which indeed he never +returned without a feeling of disquietude, which was not allayed +until he learned that all was well--a harassing feeling, which few +but those who have experienced the responsibility of the conduct and +success of a similar expedition can fully appreciate. The water at +this camp was very bad, but still under the circumstances, a great +God-send. There were two holes equi-distant half-a-mile from the one +they were on, up and down the creek. The upper one was the deepest, +having many ducks, terns, and cranes on it. All three were +surrounded with a fringe of green rushes. By digging wells and +allowing the water to drain in, it was drinkable, although very +brackish. (Camp XXXVIII.) Latitude 16 degrees 13 minutes 45 +seconds. + +'December' 8.--At 4 o'clock this morning Alexander Jardine started +with Sambo after the mule. The Leader remained with the party +employing the day in exploring ahead for about 18 miles, in the hope +of finding water for a stage. This was a paramount necessity, for +the weather was so hot and the country so dry that twenty-four hours +without drinking drove the cattle nearly mad, their drivers suffering +almost equally. Finding no water during this search Mr. Jardine was +again in perplexity. Supposing the Mitchell to be 40 or 45 miles +ahead, the cattle could not reach it without water. On the other +hand if the coast were followed, it was probable that on reaching the +Mitchell they would have to trace it up 40 or 50 miles before it +could be crossed. The latter however seemed to be the best course, +if not the only one. The intention of Alexander Jardine was to have +got on to the mule's tracks, and run them over again until he +"pulled" him, but the ground being baked hard, stony, and grassless +Sambo was unable again to pick them up. However, whilst looking for +the mule's tracks they found three more of the horses, on a small +creek, fourteen miles from the camp, which ran into the river below +the last camp on it. He now determined to look for the other two, +and abandon the search after the mule for the present. One of them +"Lucifer" was found at camp 35. He was out of hobbles, and +immediately on being seen, started off at a gallop up the river. His +tracks were followed up to the next camp, six miles, where night +closing in Mr. Jardine was constrained to halt. The wretched animal +had apparently gone mad, probably with drinking salt water. + +'December' 9.--On resuming the search this morning Mr. A. Jardine +met Eulah and Barney. They also, had seen "Lucifer" on the coast, +but could do nothing with him. Detaching Sambo and Barney to +continue the search after the mule, and giving them all the +provision, he took Eulah with him to try once again to recover +"Lucifer." Picking up his trail at last night's camp, where they +left the three recovered horses, they ran it four miles up the river +and came upon him in a patch of scrub; they headed him after a hard +gallop and endeavoured to drive him down to the other horses, but all +to no purpose, they knocked up their horses and were obliged to +abandon the pursuit. He had evidently gone mad. Returning to the +camp they got fresh horses, and returned with the three to the party +of the main camp. + +'December' 10.--The two lost horses ("Lucifer" and "Deceiver") being +Mr. Jardine's best hacks and favourites, he determined to make one +more effort to recover them. Starting with Eulah this morning, he +travelled down the creek on which the cattle were camped for six +miles west, when he reached some large marine plains and downs, so +large, that though they ascended a high tree they could see nothing +between them and the horizon; they were grassed only with spinifex +"and other rubbish." They came on to Lucifer's tracks about 25 miles +from the camp, and found the place where he had been drinking the +salt water and lying down. From thence they followed his tracks for +15 miles through the tea-tree levels, and camped without water, after +having travelled, walking and riding, over between 40 or 50 miles of +the most miserable and desolate country imaginable, without finding +any fit to drink. Meanwhile Alexander Jardine took another cast to +find water and have a look at the coast. He also saw the Marine +Plains, and found them utterly waterless. This decided the question +of the coast-line route. + +'December' 11.--At daylight Mr. Jardine and Eulah again got on to +Lucifer's tracks, but the ground was so hard that they had to run +them on foot and lead their horses. At sun-down they hit camp 33 on +the river, having made only about 20 miles in a straight line. Here +they had a good drink. The water was rather brackish, but after two +days travelling over a parched and arid country, almost anything +would have been acceptable. They turned out and whilst trying to +catch something for their suppers, they saw Lucifer standing within +thirty yards of where their horses were feeding, but the moment he +caught sight of them he again galloped away. Mr. Jardine immediately +jumped on his horse and brought him back to Eulah's, but to no +purpose, for he galloped past without taking the least notice of him, +and as it was now dark they had to let him go. Alexander Jardine +spent the day in searching for water, and was fortunate enough to hit +on a permanent water hole, in a small creek, eight miles N.N.W. from +the camp. This discovery was like a ray of sunshine promising to +help them on their way. At night Sambo and Barney returned, but +without the mule. + +'December' 12.--Lucifer was again followed till mid-day. From the +time that he had left their camp last night he had galloped for 13 +miles without stopping, and when found he was quite white with sweat. +It was quite evident that he was perfectly mad from the effects of +the salt water, so that Mr. Jardine decided to abandon him without +wasting more horse-flesh. He turned therefore to look for the other +horse "Deceiver," expecting to find him in the same state. His +tracks being found shortly afterwards, they followed them for some +distance, when they came on to his dead carcase. The poor brute had +evidently died from want of water; the Leader therefore turned +homewards, hoping, but little expecting to find that the mule had +been found. These losses were a heavy blow, and sadly crippled the +party. Lucifer and Deceiver were the two best riding horses, and the +mule the best pack animal. His own loss was aggravated by his +carrying his pack with him. This carried most of the odd articles +that were hitherto deemed indispensible, but which henceforth they +had per force to dispense with. One pack contained all that remained +of the tea, currants, and raisins, which were saved from the fire, +and two pairs of boots, the only ones the Brothers had; and the other +was filled with oddments, such as files, gimlets, ragstone, steel, +weighing machine, awls, tomahawks, American axes, shoeing tools, and +a number of things "that they could not do without," but perhaps the +most important loss was that of the spade, to which they had many +times been indebted for water. Up to this time, that is to the 37th +camp, the number of the camp had always been cut in the wood of a +tree at each, with a mallet and chissel, these having gone with the +mule's pack the numbers were from this point cut with a tomahawk, but +as Mr. Jardine was expert and careful in its use it is probable that +his marks are but little less legible. The recovery of the mule +being now past all hope the Brothers determined to push on, thankful +that they were certain of water for one stage. It was the more +necessary, as two of the party, Scrutton and Cowderoy, were getting +ill from the effects of the bad water. At this camp Mr. Richardson +fixed the variation at 40 east. He had hitherto used a variation of +6 degrees in his plotting. + +'December' 13.--The Leader intended to have camped to-day on the +creek, found by his brother on the 11th, but whilst ahead looking for +a good camp for the morrow, he came at five miles further on, to what +he took to be the "Rocky Creek" of Leichhardt. He turned back +therefore and fetched the cattle on to it, making 13 instead of 8 +miles. But on turning out it was found that the water was not +drinkable, although the lagoon was covered with nympheas, generally +supposed to grow only in fresh water. These were white instead of +blue, which might be from the effect of the salt. However at a mile +up the creek, a fine reach of good water was found, two miles long +and sixty yards wide. The bed of the creek contained sandstone rock, +was well grassed, and where crossed, ran about east and north. A +fine barramundi was caught in it, and Alexander Jardine shot six +whistling ducks in the first creek. The country traversed to-day +alternated between extensive marine plains, covered with "pigs face," +('Misembrianthemum Iriangularis'), and crusted with salt, and low +undulating tea-tree, and banksia ridges. Birds were very plentiful, +large flocks of native companions ('Gurus Antigen,') stalked over the +marine plains, and when seen at the distance had the appearance of a +flock of sheep, gigantic cranes, pelicans, and ibis were numerous, +whilst in the lagoons of the creek, nearly every kind of water-fowl +common to Queensland, was found, except the coot and pigmy goose, +plover and snipe were abundant, also the elegant Burdekin duck, and a +small crane was noticed having a dark blue head and body, with white +throat and neck. (Camp XXXIX.) Lat. 16 degrees 3 minutes 38 +seconds. A tree was marked F. J. in heart on one side, and 39 in +square on the other. + +'December' 14.--To-day the party started north-east, the Leader +wishing, if possible, to hit the Mitchell at the head of the tide. +Water was carried in case these should not find any, but the +precaution was fortunately unnecessary. At five miles they crossed a +small creek from the eastward, having one small hole of water in it. +The country to that point was similar to that of yesterday, thence +outward for about 9 miles they traversed box flats, intersected with +low sandy rises, well grassed, and timbered with stringy-bark and +acacia. Another watered creek was crossed at about 9 miles from the +start, and the camp pitched at a round waterhole, in a well-watered +creek at 14 miles. Many gullies were crossed filled with the +screw-palm ('Pandanus Spirilas.') The soil of the box flats was a +stiff yellow clay. Hot winds had been prevalent for the last week +from the south-east, which parched and baked everything and made the +mosquitoes very numerous and annoying. (Camp XL.) Latitude 15 +degrees 56 minutes 31 seconds. + +'December' 15.--The grass was so coarse and dry at this camp, that +the precaution was taken of watching the horses all last night, and +the party started this morning by moonlight. For 5 miles they +travelled over box and tea-tree flats, full of funnel ant-hills, +melon and rat-holes, when they reached a narrow deep sandy creek, the +course of which was defined by a line of dark green timber, +presenting a strong and pleasing contrast with any previously crossed +along the "Levels," where they could never be distinguished from a +distance, being fringed with the same kind of timber. It came from +the eastward, was tolerably watered, and presented some bad broken +sandstone country on its north bank. Its shady appearance suggested +the appropriate name of "Arbor Creek." For three miles the route lay +over gullies, spurs, and walls of broken sandstone. The country +beyond opened agreably into flats, which might almost be called +plains, but for the lightly-dotted timber. The grasses though dry, +were finer and better than any seen, since leaving the Einnasleih. +The timber generally was white box, applegum, bloodwood, and +grevillea, and at 11 miles (from camp) the bauhinia, and Bidwill's +acacia commenced, and continued to the 42nd Camp. The flats towards +the end of the stage sloped to the north-east. At 19 miles the party +having accomplished a long stage, Mr. Jardine camped without water, +sending old Eulah to try and find some. He soon returned with the +welcome news that there was a well-watered creek on a-head, so +saddling up again, they drove on and reached it in about three miles. +It was well worth the extra fatigue to the stock. They were rewarded +by an excellent camp, plenty of green grass, open country and water, +which, after a drive of 23 long and dusty miles, was alike acceptable +to men and beasts. The creek received the name of Eulah Creek, in +honor of the discoverer. (Camp XLI.) + +'December' 16.--Between two and three miles of travelling over +flooded box country, having large melon holes in it, brought the +party to a well-watered creek, with vine scrub banks running N. W. +At three more, another and similar one was reached, where the scrubs +on the banks were so thick that the Brothers who were a-head had to +camp, to cut a road through them. This creek appeared to be an +ana-branch. Whilst they were engaged in marking a line for a +crossing place for the cattle, they saw some blacks, and tried to +avoid them, these however ran in the direction of the cattle, and +brandishing their spears laughingly, defied the horsemen, beckoning +them to come on. With this they complied, and turned them back over +the creek, and then sat down awaiting the arrival of the cattle. +They were not allowed to remain long in peace, for the natives, +having left their gins on the other side, swam over the creek and +tried to surround them. Being thus forced into a "row," the Brothers +determined to let them have it, only regretting that some of the +party were not with them, so as to make the lesson a more severe one. +The assailants spread out in a circle to try and surround them, but +seeing eight or nine of their companions drop, made them think better +of it, and they were finally hunted back again across the river, +leaving their friends behind them. The firing was heard by the +cattle party, but before they could come up, the fray was over. In +this case, as in all others, the collision was forced on the +explorers, who, as a rule, always avoided making use of their +superior arms. Leaving the cattle in camp, the Brothers spend the +afternoon in exploring the country a-head for 7 miles. After +crossing the river, the course lay through flooded country (the marks +on the trees being in some cases five feet high, covered with box, +and vine scrub, and the water, grasses, and rushes being matted +together with mud and rubbish,) to a large stream with broad sandy +bed, divided into three channels, altogether about 600 yards wide, +but with little water in them. The banks and islands were covered +with vine scrub, and lined with plum ('Owenia,') chestnut +('Castanopermum,') nonda, bauhinia, acacia, white cedar, the corypha +or (fan-leaved palm,) flooded gum, melaleuca (drooping tea-tree,) and +many creepers and shrubs. On the box flats travelled through, some +gunyahs, dams, and weirs were noticed, all constructed of matted +vines and palm leaves, which last grow almost everywhere. One of the +largest of the palms measured 13 1/2 feet at the butt, which is the +smallest end, as they here assume the shape of the bottle tree. This +stream was correctly surmised to be the long desired Mitchell, the +two last creeks being only its ana-branches. Although 10 miles +higher up in latitude 15 degrees 51 minutes 56 seconds it is +described by Leichhardt as being 1 1/2 miles wide. It here measured +as before described only about 600 yards. A number of fish were +caught at the camp. (Camp XLII.) Distance 6 miles. + +'December' 17.--After some little trouble the cattle were crossed +over this branch, a road having to be cut for them through the scrub. +At 5 miles they crossed another main branch about 450 yards wide, and +camped two miles on the other side of it, on a waterhole in a +Leichhardt-tree flat ('Nauclea Leichhardtii.') The country was the +same as described yesterday. One of the fattest of the cows died +from the effects of some poisonous herb, not detected. Some turkey's +eggs were found, and a wallaby, with which the vine scrubs were +swarming, was shot. The Torres Straits pigeon ('Carpophaga +Luctuosa,') was here met with for the first time on the trip, and +attracted the interest and admiration of the travellers. It is a +handsome bird, about the size of a wonga, the head and body pure +white, the primaries of the wings and edge of the tail feathers +black, and the vent feathers and under tail coverts tinged with a +delicate salmon color. Distance 7 or 8 miles. Course N.N.E. (Camp +XLIII.) + +'December' 18.--The river was followed down to-day for 9 miles +through a complete net-work of ana-branches, gullies, and vine scrubs +to another branch, which may be called the true stream. It was 30 +yards wide, deep, and running strongly. Here the party had to camp +for about 3 hours, whilst the Brothers searched for a good crossing. +The cattle and pack-horses were crossed in safety, but some of the +pack-bags got wetted in the passage. They were travelled another +mile over to a sandstone bar, crossing another deep sheet of water, +that had been previously found. This stream had been explored in +search of a ford for four miles further up but without success. It +continued of the same width and appeared to do so much further. This +day, Sunday, was marked by the severest conflict the travellers had +yet had with the natives, one which may well be degnified by the name +of the "battle of the Mitchell." On arriving at the running stream +before mentioned, whilst the cattle halted, the Brothers and Eulah, +taking axes with them, to clear the scrub, went down to find a safe +crossing. At about a-mile-and-a-half they came on to a number of +blacks fishing, these immediately crossed to the other side, but on +their return, swam across again in numbers, armed with large bundles +of spears and some nullahs and met them. The horsemen seeing they +were in for another row, now cantered forward towards the camp, +determined this time to give their assailants a severe lesson. This +was interpreted into a flight by the savages, who set up a yell, and +re-doubled their pursuit, sending in their spears thick and fast. +These now coming much too close to be pleasant (for some of them were +thrown a hundred yards), the three turned suddenly on their pursuers, +and galloping up to them, poured in a volley, the report of which +brought down their companions from the camp, when the skirmish became +general. The natives at first stood up courageously, but either by +accident or through fear, despair or stupidity, they got huddled in a +heap, in, and at the margin of the water, when ten carbines poured +volley after volley into them from all directions, killing and +wounding with every shot with very little return, nearly all of their +spears having been expended in the pursuit of the horsemen. About +thirty being killed, the Leader thought it prudent to hold his hand, +and let the rest escape. Many more must have been wounded and +probably drowned, for fifty nine rounds were counted as discharged. +On the return of the party to the cattle an incident occurred which +nearly cost one of them his life. One of the routed natives, +probably burning with revengeful and impotent hate, got into the +water under the river bank, and waited for the returning party, and +as they passed threw a spear at Scrutton, before any one was aware of +his proximity. The audacious savage had much better have left it +alone, for he paid for his temerity with his life. Although the +travellers came off providentially without hurt, there were many +narrow escapes, for which some of them might thank their good +fortune. At the commencement of the fight as Alexander Jardine was +levelling his carbine, a spear struck the ground between his feet, +causing him to drop his muzzle, and lodge the bullet in the ground a +few yards in front of him. His next shot told more successfully. +There were other equally close shaves, but providentially not a +scratch. This is one of the few instances in which the savages of +Queensland have been known to stand up in fight with white men, and +on this occasion they shewed no sign of surprise or fear at the +report and effect of fire-arms. But it is probable that they will +long remember the "Battle of the Mitchell." (Camp LXIV.) Course +N.N.W. Distance 7 miles. + +'December' 19.--The horses had to be watched last night, for the +grass was so dry and course that the stock would not look at it, but +kept rambling about. The river was followed down about 13 miles. +The whole country travelled to-day and yesterday shewed flood marks +from 5 to 15 feet high. The rushes, nardoo, thatch, and water-grass, +dried and parched by the hot winds, were matted together with mud and +rubbish. At the camp the stream was 150 yards wide, the running +water being 30 yards across. The banks were of clay and sandstone, +from 20 to 30 feet high, the water was discolored to a kind of +yellowish white. During the floods the stream must be eight or ten +miles wide, for, two miles back from it, a fish weir was seen in a +small gully. + +Altogether it would have been a frightful place for the party to have +been detained at. (Camp XLV.) Latitude 15 degrees 26 minutes 5 +seconds. + +'December' 20.--The river was still followed down to-day, the party +keeping about four miles from it, to avoid its scrubs and +ana-branches. At between 7 or 8 miles, a stream about 100 yards +wide, coming from the eastward, caused them to halt until a road was +cut through the thick vine scrub that fringed its banks. Four miles +further on they camped at a small lagoon close to the bank of the +river, at which point it is about 100 yards wide, deep, and too salt +for drinking, being affected by the tide. The country travelled over +was box, and tea-tree, melon-hole flats, shewing very high flood +marks. The ground had become very boggy from a heavy rain that fell +during the day. The night was very stormy, rain and wind falling and +blowing pretty equally. Two more head of cattle were dropped. The +total distance was 11 miles. Course W.N.W. (Camp XLVI.) + +'December' 21.--The rain of last night continuing through the +morning, the party had to start in the down-pour. They crossed +another large shallow sandy creek at four miles, coming from the +eastward running south-east. The camp was formed on a lagoon about a +mile from the river bank. The country traversed was sandy, growing +only coarse wirey grasses and spinifex, sandstone rock cropping out +occasionally above the surface. The river was here a +quarter-of-a-mile wide, salt, and running strongly. Before the +pack-horses came up, a mob of blacks approached the camp, and getting +up in the trees, took a good survey of the white intruders, but on +one of the party going towards them they scampered off over the open +ground towards the river. The recollection of the affair at the +crossing place probably quickening their movements. Just at +sun-down, however, the sharp eyes of the black-boys detected some of +them actually trying to stalk the whites, using green boughs for +screens. So the Brothers taking with them Scrutton and the four +black-boys, started in chase. They were in camp costume, that is to +say, shirt and belt, and all in excellent condition and wind, and now +a hunt commenced, which perhaps stands alone in the annals of nature +warfare. On being detected the natives again decamped, but this time +closely pursued. The party could at any time overtake or outstep the +fugitives, but they contented themselves with pressing steadilly on +them, in open order, without firing a shot, occasionally making a +spurt, which had the effect of causing the blacks to drop nearly all +their spears. They fairly hunted them for two miles into the scrub, +when, as darkness was coming on, they left their dingy assailants to +recover their wind, and returned to camp laughing heartily at their +"blank run," and taking with them as many of the abondoned spears as +they could carry. (Camp XLVII.) Distance 9 1/2 miles. Course W.N.W. + +'December' 22.--The Mitchell was left finally to-day, Mr. Jardine +determining on beginning the "straight running" for Cape York. The +first 8 miles was to a broad rocky creek, over tea-tree and box +flats, and small plains, fairly grassed, the best coast country that +had been seen. The creek appeared to be permanent, although there +was no water where it was crossed. From thence to camp, 7 miles, was +over saline plains, intersected by belts of bloodwood, tea-tree, +mangrove, nuptle, grevillea, dogwood, applegum, silky oak, and +pandanus. A second creek was crossed at 11 miles, similar to the +first. The camp was pitched at a puddle, without a blade of grass, +although its appearance was beautifully green, caused by a small sort +of tea-tree growing in great abundance, about 10 inches high, with +seven or eight large leaves on it. A steer was killed in the +evening, giving the party a very acceptable meal of meat, the first +they had tasted for three days, the weather being too hot to kill, +and there being no game to shoot. Course N. by W. Distance 15 +miles. (Camp XLVIII.) Latitude 15 degrees 2 minutes 10 seconds. + +'December' 23.--All hands were up almost the whole of last night, +some engaged in watching the cattle and horses, and others in cutting +up and jerking the beast. The rain came down heavily, and a cold +bitter wind was blowing; all the tents, save the ration tent, being +like seives, the outside was rather preferable to their shelter; so +each passed the night as best they could. The cattle were started +away in the morning, leaving Scrutton and Binney to finish jerking +the meat, there being some sunshine, which was beginning to be a +rarity, for the wet season had now fairly set in. Twelve miles of +wretched country were traversed, white sandy undulating ground, +clothed with shrubs and underwood, in the place of grass, and the +camp pitched on a low stringy-bark ridge, without water, for in this +flat sandy country the ground absorbs the rain as soon as it falls. +The horses had to be watched again to-night, for there was not a +blade of grass to be got. A small quantity of water was found in a +creek about a mile-and-a-half ahead. Late in the evening the horses +and water-bags were taken to it, and sufficient water brought back +for the use of the camp. Two small unimportant creeks were crossed +to-day, sandy and dry, trending west. Distance 12 miles N.W. by N. +(Camp XLIX.) + +'December' 24.--The cattle were watched at a small lagoon beyond the +creek before mentioned, which was deep and rocky. The country +continued of the same miserable character as yesterday, till at 7 +miles, the party came to a belt of bloodwood and stringy-bark, where, +by good luck, there was a little coarse grass, but as the stock had +had none for two days, they were not particular. (Camp L.) Distance +7 miles. Course N.N.W. + +'December' 25.--The rain came down all last night, and continuing +throughout the day (for the first time continually), did not suggest +a merry Christmas. However the Leader wished his companions the +compliments of the season, and pushed on. The country decidedly +improved if the weather did not. The tail end of some scrubs were +passed in the first five miles, cheifly tea-tree and oak, and +half-a-mile further on, a fine creek of sandstone rock, permenantly +watered; at 7 miles another similar, but larger, was named Christmas +Creek. Here whilst Mr. Jardine was halting in wait for the cattle, +he marked a tree XMAS, 1864, in square. In it the swamp mahogany was +seen for the first time since leaving Bowen. Its native name is +Belourgah. The creek was therefore christened by that name. At 15 +miles the party reached and camped on a fine, well-watered, rocky +creek, where the blue grass was plentiful, the first that had been +seen for many weeks. The country travelled over was very soft, and +though driven loose, three of the horses could scarcely travel over +it. The packs also were getting into a very dirty state, consequent +on the amount of mud and water they had been dragged through. The +timber noticed to-day was very varied, comprising all the kinds that +have already been mentioned, with the addition of the banksia, which +was observed for the first time, and a kind of pomegranate, which was +quite new to the Brothers. The trees grow large with soft white +bark, and large round leaves. The fruit as large as an hen's egg, in +shape like the common pomegranate. Unripe it is of a transparent +white, but when mature, has a dark pink color and slightly acid +taste. It is probably the euginia mentioned by Leichhardt. They +were much annoyed by the green-tree ant, all the trees and shrubs +being covered with them, in riding along they got about their +persons, and down their backs, where they stuck like ticks. They are +of a transparent green, nearly half-an-inch long, soft, and sticky. +On coming to the green feed and good water at the camp, it was felt +that this Christmas Day, if not the most cheerful, might have been +much worse. (Camp LI.) Distance 13 miles N.N.W. + +'December' 26,--The party travelled to-day on a course N.N.W. for +about 14 miles over very similar country to that of yesterday, save +that they crossed no creek, and saw no water during the whole of the +stage. Some of the ground was very scrubby and boggy, and better, +though not well grassed, too much spear grass occuring. The camp was +pitched on a splendid sheet of water, in a rocky creek, 80 yards +wide, and very long, in which some of the party caught some fine +fish. Waterfowl of all kinds were also numerous. It received the +name of Hearsey Creek, after a particular friend, Mr. W. Hearsey +Salmon. The blacks were hanging about, but did not make their +appearance. (Camp LII.) + +'December' 27.--The course to-day lay over similar country, a little +to the west of north, for 16 miles to a small creek, which contained +in a puddle, just sufficient water for the use of the party and the +horses. The cattle had to go without. (Camp LIII.) + +'December' 18.--At five miles from starting this morning, the +thirsty cattle were able to get abundance of water in a long sandy +creek, running in several channels, and having a rocky sandstone bed. +It was named Holroyd Creek. Two miles further on another stream was +crossed of similar size and character, which received the name of +Dunsmuir Creek. Here the country suddenly changed into lightly +timbered box flats, poorly grassed, and flooded. Four miles more +brought them to a salt-water creek, which had to be run up +a-mile-and-a-half before drinkable water was found. The camp was +pitched on a lotus lagoon, the water of which was slightly brackish. +It received the name of Thalia Creek. About two hours after camping, +whilst the party were engaged in digging trenches round them, and +otherwise preparing for an impending thunder-storm, the black-boy +that was tailing the cattle, came running into the camp in great +excitement, with the news that the natives that had been seen in the +morning, had hunted him and were now running the horses, so half the +party immediately turned out in pursuit. To protect the carbines +from the coming storm, Alexander Jardine and Scrutton arrayed +themselves the one in a black and the other a white mackintosh, which +reached to their heels, whilst the Leader having a short coat on, a +revolver in each pocket, jumped on to the bare-back of one of the +horses. This time it was not a "blank run." The horses were +scuttling about in all directions, and the natives waited for the +whites, close to a mangrove scrub, till they got within sixty yards +of them, when they began throwing spears. They were answered with +Terry's breech-loaders, but whether fascinated by the strange attire +of the three whites, or frightended by the report of the fire-arms, +or charge of the horse, they stood for some time unable to fight or +run. At last they slowly retired in the scrub, having paid for their +gratuitious attack by the loss of some of their companions. Some of +them were of very large stature. The storm broke with great violence +accompanied with thunder and lightning and scattered the cattle off +the camp in spite of the efforts of the party to keep them. The +thunder caused them to rush about, whilst darkness caused the +watchers to run against them, and add to their fright. So they were +let go. (Camp LIV.) Distance 11 or 12 miles north. + +'December' 29.--The cattle were all gathered this morning, save 10, +for which Frank Jardine left two of the black-boys to seek and then +follow the party. To his great annoyance they came on at night +without them. The course to-day was N.N.E. over boggy tea-tree +flats, and low stringy-bark ridges. At three miles a large running +creek, one hundred yards wide, was struck, and had to be followed up +for four miles before a crossing was found. Four miles further +brought them to a small creek, well supplied with water from the +recent rains, and what was even more acceptable, plenty of green +feed, of which the cattle and horses stood in great need. The Leader +determined to halt here one day, to try and recover the lost cattle, +but felt anything but easy in doing so, for the flood-marks were six +feet high on the camp, which was high ground compared to the level +waste around them, and the rains seemed fairly to have set in. +Another heavy storm poured down on them at night. (Camp LV.) + +'December' 30.--The cattle remained here to-day, whilst Scrutton and +Eulah were sent back for the lost cattle. The Brothers went forward +a day's stage to try and find some high ground. In this they did not +succeed. The country was all alike, and they were satisfied beyond +doubt that it must be one sea during the rains; not a very comforting +discovery. They found a creek four miles on, which received the name +of Macleod Creek. It was large and deep, with a strong current +running, and chose a place at which they would have to cross, between +two high banks of red sandstone. They then returned to camp, and +spent the rest of the day in "sugar bag" hunting, in which they were +very successful, bringing in as much as made a feed for the whole +camp, which was no small quantity. Scrutton and Eulah returned at +dark, without having seen any traces of the missing cattle, so it was +determined to go on without them, as it would have been madness to +have remained longer in such dangerous country. At night they +experienced a heavy storm, which is thus described in Frank Jardine's +journal:--"We had one of most severe wind and thunder storms this +evening that I ever saw. The largest trees bent like whip-sticks, +and the din caused by the wind, rain, thunder, and trees falling, +beyond description. People looking at it from under a snug roof +would have called it 'grand,' but we rhymed it with a very different +word." This may be called a "joke under difficulties." + +'December' 31.--Macleod Creek was reached by half-past eight o'clock +this morning, and cattle, horses, and packs were all safely crossed +by 9.15. The journey was then continued over, or rather, through +very boggy tea-tree flats, and undulating stringy-bark, nonda, and +bloodwood country, to a large flooded creek, coming from the +eastward, which received the name of "Kendall Creek," after a friend +of Mr. Richardson's. There was a little rising ground on its banks, +on which the party camped. Frank Jardine went up it for a few miles, +and found a spot at which to cross the next day, in the same manner +as at the last. At this camp some capital barramundi and perch were +caught, one of the former weighing no less than 14 pounds. They were +a great treat, as the party had been without meat for some days, the +heavy rains allowing them no chance of killing. The distance +travelled to-day was 12 miles, and course generally N.N.W., but the +track was winding in consequence of having to lead the horses, and +thread the way through the soundest looking places. (Camp LVI.) + + + +CHAPTER IV + +New Year's Day--Sinclair Creek--New Year's Creek--Kinloch Creek - +Micketeeboomulgeiai--The River Archer--The Coen--Slough of Despond +- River Batavia--Two Horses Drowned--Five Horses Poisoned - +Symptoms--Abandon Baggage--Cache--Party commence Walking - +Difficult Travelling--Two more Horses Die--Last Encounter with +Natives--Pandanus Thorns--Another Horse Sickens--Urgency of +Getting Forward--Dalhunty Creek--Another Horse Dies--"Creamy" and +"Rocket" Die--Skardon's Creek--Pitcher Plant--Two Saddles +Abandoned--Nell Gwynne's Foal Killed--Richardson's Range. + +'January' 1.--Kendall Creek was crossed early on the morning of +this, New Year's Day, and subsequently at distances of 10 and 14 +miles, two small creeks of running water, coming from the eastward, +named respectively Sinclair and New Year's Creeks, in which lilies +were abundant ('Blue Nympheas'), and on the last of which the party +camped. The progress was rendered very tedious and difficult, by the +large trunks and branches of trees, which had been blown down by the +storm of the 30th December, over and amongst which the weak horses +kept constantly falling. The country changed into red sandy ridges, +shewing an outcrop of sandstone, timbered with tall straight saplings +of stringy-bark and bloodwood, the larger timber having in all cases +been blown down. Some grass-tree country was also passed, covered +with quartz pebbles, white, or colored with oxide of iron. The +distance accomplished was 14 miles on a course of N.E. by N. (Camp +LVII. Nonda.) A heavy thunder-storm broke at night, followed by +steady rain. + +'January' 2.--The heavy rain, boggy soil, and recent long stages +made it necessary to turn out the cattle during the last night, as +the poor animals had so little chance of feeding during the day. +They were, however, gathered by the time the horses were ready in the +morning, having, probably, but little temptation to stray on the +boggy ground. The country traversed was similar to that of +yesterday, and very much encumbered with fallen timber. The grasses, +though thin, are of the best quality. Altogether the interval +between Kendall Creek and to-night's camp, a distance of 30 miles, +would make a fine cattle run, being watered at every six or seven +miles by running creeks, besides a large swamp. It was found to be +an extensive plateau, sloping away to the eastward, terminating +abruptly in a perpendicular wall, overlooking the valley, on the head +of which the party camped. The camp was one of the best of the whole +journey, being pitched on a grassy rise, sloping gently to the +eastward, and was a grateful relief after the barren and waterless +camps of the journey. The latitude was 13 degrees 47 seconds. +Distance 16 miles. (Camp LVIII.) + +'January' 3.--This morning the creek was followed down to near its +junction with a large sandy stream, coming from the north-east, which +was named Kinloch Creek, in honor of John Kinloch, Esq., Mathematical +Master of Sydney College. It was plentifully watered, and remarkable +for presenting the only iron-bark trees that were seen since leaving +the Einasleih. At 8 and 12 miles, two small very boggy creeks were +crossed, the first of which had to be bridged. Their banks were very +unsound and swampy, covered with tea-tree, pandanus, ferns, and all +kinds of valueless underwood. They were full of lilies, and appeared +to be constantly running, from which it was conjectured that they +must take their rise from springs. On passing the last, the party +emerged on to poorly grassed, desolate-looking sandstone ridges, +covered with grass-tree and zamia. A pine-tree ridge was then +passed, and a camp formed on a small water-course beyond, the total +distance being 16y miles on a bearing of N.N.E. 1/2 N. The latitude +was ascertained to be 13 degrees 35 minutes 54 seconds S. During the +day red kangaroos were seen, also the Torres Straits pigeon, and two +black cockatoos, with very large stiff crest, crimson cheeks, and +large black bill, the rest of the body black. This was the +('Microglossus Aterrimus'), a species peculiar to Northern Australia. +It is nearly one-third larger in size than the common black cockatoo, +from which it is mainly distinguished by the color of the bill, which +is black. (Camp LIX. Bloodwood.) + +'January' 4.--A heavy storm of rain and thunder having been +experienced last night, the party made a short day's stage, and +camped early to enable them to dry their meat, saddlery, bags, etc., +which had been thoroughly soaked. The horses backs too, were getting +sore from the use of wet saddles, and themselves tired. The course +was north, over stringy-bark and bloodwood ridges for 5 miles, to a +large running creek named Micketeeboomulgeiai,* from the north-east, +on which a crossing had to be cut; a mile-and-a-half further on, an +ana-branch was crossed, and the party camped. (Camp LX. Bloodwood.) + +[footnote]*In the Wellington Dialect "place where the lightning struck." + +'January' 5.--Still raining and wet to-day. A table-land of open +sandy ridges was traversed to a high point, the edge of which was +reached in five miles on a course N. by E. On reaching this point a +range was seen in front, extending east and west about 10 miles off, +between which and the party, a fine valley extended, traversed by a +large sandy river, which was named the Archer, in honor of Messrs. +Archer, of Gracemere. The river Archer flows from the north-east, +through a valley of great richness and beauty, and considered by the +explorers to be the best country for cattle seen north of Broadsound. +The banks of the river are fringed by a thick belt of vine-scrub, +containing very many Leichhardt and other handsome trees and shrubs +of great luxuriance and growth. The valley is also described as +being the first locality where any varities of flowers were seen, +some were of great beauty, particularly a bulb which bears a large +flower, shaped like a larkspur, of every tinge of red, from a +delicate pink to a rich purple. After crossing the Archer two +ana-branches were passed, the route laying over loamy black and +chocolate flats, and fine long sloping ridges, very thickly grassed, +quite free from stones, well-watered, and despite the heavy rains +that had fallen, perfectly sound. The range seen from the table-land +was low, and of much the same description. Distance travelled 15 +miles N. by E. (Camp LXI. Applegum.) + +'January' 6.--The march to-day was very trying to the poor horses, +being chiefly over rotten melon-hole country, of a yellow clayey +soil, timbered with stunted bloodwood and pandanus, the rain pouring +down all day. At two miles from camp a large creek was crossed +containing a little rain water, and subsequently nine or ten small +deep waterless creeks, their beds too sandy to be retentive. On one +of these the wearied party camped at the end of 16 or 17 miles. A +range 8 or 9 miles to the East, was sighted during the day. +Notwithstanding the rain, barely sufficient water was found at the +camp. Distance 17 miles. Course North. (Camp LXII. Poplar gum.) + +'January' 7.--At rather more than a mile from camp, two branches of +a large deep creek, were crossed just above its junction. It runs +from W. by N., had a little water in it, and the usual fringe of dark +green vine scrub, interspersed with Leichhardt trees. A hill on the +north bank covered with large sandstone boulders, marks the +crossing-place of the party. Numerous small water-courses similar to +those of yesterday, were crossed to-day. The country slightly +improved but was of the same character, waterless but for the showers +of rain. I was strange to see the horses bogging leg deep during a +thunder-storm, and in five minutes after unable to get a drink of +water. Large red funnel-shaped ant-hills were seen, in some +instances as high as 18 to 20 feet. The timber in addition to the +usual varities comprised zamias, iron bark, acacia, pandanus, mimosa, +sterculia [(Currijong'), grevillia, coral, ('Erythrina'), and Nonda +('Walrothia') trees. Scrub turkeys ('Talegalla Lathami'), wonga +wongas, and Torres Straits pigeon were seen. The party camped at the +end of 15 miles in a shallow tea-tree gulley, with a little water +from last night's rain in its sandy bed, supplying themselves with +drinking water from the rain, caught by the tents. Course North. +(Camp LXIII. Acacia.) + +'January' 8.--The first 15 miles travelled over to-day were good +undulating forest country, timbered chiefly with box and applegum, +and a few iron-barks, and intersected with numerous canal-like +creeks, running north-west, but without water; the last three miles +was wretchedly bad, being similar to the tea-tree country of the +Staaten. The whole country between the Archer and Staaten is without +water, save immediately after rain, sufficiently heavy to set the +creeks running. The party camped on a small tea-tree "Gilgai," or +shallow water pan, and experienced another night of heavy rain with +high wind. Two more horses, Rasper and N'gress were found knocked +up. Distance 18 miles. Course N. The latitude of the camp was +ascertained to be 12 degrees 38 minutes 2 seconds. (Camp LXIV. +Bloodwood.) + +'January' 9.--The fact of high land being observed to the west of +the course, and that the creeks all flowed eastward, induced the +party to think that they were near on the eastern slope of the +peninsula. This idea, however, was dispelled on their reaching at +the end of ten miles, a large river which was supposed to be the +Coen. It was running strongly W.N.W., and seemed distinctly to +divide the good and bad country, that on the south side being richly +grassed, open and lightly timbered, lucerne and other fine herbs +occurring frequently, whilst on the north side it relapsed into the +old barren tea-tree country of which so much had been traversed. +Considerable time was lost by the party in cutting a road for the +cattle through the thick scrub that fringes its banks, a kind of work +which was now becoming familiar. The Coen is about sixty yards wide, +sandy, and contains crocodiles. The country on it is described as +being of excellent quality for a cattle run. The party camped on a +tea-tree swamp with a few inches of water in it, 6 miles beyond the +crossing place. During the day wongas and Torres Strait pigeons were +observed, and scrub turkeys frequented the river scrubs. Distance 16 +miles. Course North. (Camp LXV. Bloodwood.) + +'January' 10.--The journey to-day was one of unusual fatigue and +hardship. The country for the first two miles was comparatively +sound, but at this point the course was intercepted by a narrow boggy +creek, running strongly through a tea-tree flat. Although care and +time were taken in the selection of a proper spot, when the herd +began to cross, the leading cattle, breaking through the crust, sank +to their hips in the boggy spew below, and in a short time between 30 +and 40 were stuck fast, the remainder ploughing through with great +difficulty. Four beasts refused to face it altogether, and it was +found necessary, after wasting considerable time and a deal of +horse-flesh, to let them go. The greater part of the day was +consumed in dragging out the bogged cattle with ropes. Even with +this method and with all the exertions that could be used by the +party, five had to be abandoned, nothing appearing above the ground +but their backs and heads. The horses were more easily crossed, but +their saddles, packs, and loads had to be carried over by the party. +They then camped on the creek, and spent the remainder of the day in +drying their arms, saddles, etc., and in jerking the beef of one of +the beasts which they had been unable to pull out of the slough. +Heavy rain again fell at night, which caused an apprehension that +their progress would be altogether stopped if it continued. Distance +2 1/2 miles. Course North. (Camp LXVI. Pomegranite.) + +'January' 11.--It is at this point that the heaviest troubles and +hardships of the party appear to have commenced, ,troubles that might +well appal hearts less stout than those of the Leader and his +brother, and hardships bearing heavily on each member of the party, +but doubly so on them who had to explore, mark, and clear the way for +the cattle, in addition to the ordinary labor of the journey. After +having travelled with the greatest difficulty for two miles over +execrable country, so boggy as to be barely possible to traverse, +their progress was stopped by a creek 25 yards wide, flooded "bank +and bank," and running like a mill sluice. This was the river +Batavia. The usual formidable fringe of vine scrub covered the +margin and approaches and had to be cut through before the cattle +could cross. This was done by the Brothers by the time they came up, +and in addition a large melaleuca which leant over the stream, was +felled across it, by means of which (by tying a rope above it, as a +leading line), they were enabled to carry over the packs, saddles, +stores, etc., on their heads. The cattle accustomed to swimming, +took the water in splendid style, one however getting entangled and +drowned. With the horses they were not so fortunate, for though a +head stall was put on each with a rope attached to the bit, to haul +them across, the rapidity of the current swept away two of them into +a tangle of vines in the middle of the stream, under which they were +carried and drowned, despite the exertions of four or five of the +party to pull them across by the rope. Their efforts to save them +nearly cost their own lives, and A. Jardine chronicles receiving a +"nasty crack" in the head from a log in attempting to disentangle his +own horse "Jack" from the vines, one which might have closed his +career, had it been a degree harder, the other, "Blokus," was a +Government horse, belonging to Mr Richardson; both were useful +horses, and a great loss to the party, but only the forerunner of +much greater ones. The creek at last crossed, the party attempted to +push forward on the other side, but after travelling a mile leading +the horses, slushing through bog and swamp under a heavy rain, they +were obliged to turn back and encamp on some high ground on the banks +of the creek, about half-a-mile above the crossing, where there was a +little good grass. Several of their horses were left behind bogged, +one mare in particular, "Nell Gwynne," being too weak to travel. +Distance 3 miles. Course N. (Camp LXVII.) + +'January' 12.--It was determined to camp here to-day, both to spell +the weak horses and dry many things that had got wet. The horses +left bogged the previous night were got out, when on returning to the +camp, it was found that a number of the others were poisoned, and one +missing. The black-boys were immediately sent out in search of him, +but were unsuccessful. Meanwhile the party being unable to shift +camp that day, a yard was immediately formed, all herbs carefully +pulled up in and about it, and the horses penned there. The +precaution came too late, for before evening five of them besides the +missing one ("Rasper") were dead. It was supposed that "Rasper" must +have got into the river and been drowned, as one of the effects of +the poison is complete blindness. The symptoms are thus described. +Profuse sweating, with a heaving of the flanks, the ears droop, the +eyes glaze, set, and the animal finally turns stone blind. He then +lies down, struggles fitfully for several hours, and never rises +again. This was a heavy blow. Ten of their horses were now gone, +eight of which were picked, and the best of the whole number, besides +being the best conditioned, one peculiarity of the poison being that +it appears to attack the fattest animals. A careful search was made +to detect the plant that caused this fearful loss, but +unsuccessfully. The number of horses being now reduced to +twenty-one, and those the poorest and worst, it became necessary to +take only what was actually wanted of their baggage, and to abandon +the remainder. A cache was accordingly dug, and 25 sets of +horse-shoes, a lot of nails and other miscellaneous articles were +buried at the foot of an iron acacia on the top of the ridge and +facing the creek, on which was marked in a sheild F J over LXVII. +over DIG in heart. The horses were kept in the yard all night, and +the rest of the day and evening spent in disposing of the reduced +loading, and making preparations for leaving this fatal camp. The +rain continued to fall heavily throughout the day, which could not +under the circumstances, have increased the cheerfulness of the +party. The Leader, however, closes the entry in his Diary with "Nil +Desperandum" merely marking the day of the week in parenthesis as +("Black Thursday.") + +'January' 13.--The poor condition of the horses, and the wretchedly +soft nature of the ground, making it impossible for them to be +ridden, or do more than carry the diminished loads of baggage and +stores, the party had no choice but to walk and in some cases even to +carry the packs of the horses. Mr. A. Jardine describes their +appearance this morning as "rather neat" at the starting from the +camp, the two Brothers, Mr. Binney, Scrutton, and the four black-boys +having doffed everything but their shirts and belts. It was well for +the whites that their previous habits on the journey had hardened +their feet and enabled them to travel without shoes, with but little +less hardship than their black companions. This they had acquired by +the custom on coming into camp, of going out with the boys opossum +and "sugar bag" hunting. With stout hearts and naked legs, therefore +they faced forward driving the horses and cattle before them, and by +the end of the day placed ten miles between them and "Poison Creek," +as it was then named. This however was not accomplished without +great toil, the country traversed being red soil ridges, with black +soil tea-tree flats between them, which were so many bogs. In these +the cattle floundered and bogged at every hundred yards, and even the +spare unladen horses had to be pulled out. The latter were at length +so completely knocked up that it was necessary to leave some of them +at one side of a swamp, the party carrying their packs and loads +about a quarter-of-a-mile on to a dry ridge on the other. Here they +camped and tired as they were, were obliged to keep a vigilant watch, +as, to add to their many annoyances the natives had been following +them all day. Distance 10 miles N.E. by N. Box marked F.J. 68 cross. + +'January' 14.--At daylight this morning the horses were got over +the swamp, with less difficulty than was expected, being recruited by +their night's rest. The journey was resumed at 6.30. There had been +no rain on the previous day and night, and the ground with only this +twenty-four hours of dry weather had hardened sufficiently on the +crust to allow the horses to walk without bogging. This crust, +however, once broken through, they bogged hopelessly, until dragged +out with ropes. In this the water and sludge oozing out from the +tracks were great auxiliaries, as they formed a kind of batter, in +which, by pulling the horses on their sides, they slid along like +sledges. This process had continually to be repeated throughout the +day, causing so much delay, that seven or eight miles were with +difficulty accomplished. At each running stream the packs had to be +taken off and carried over. The country traversed was similar to +that of yesterday, undulating blood-wood red soil ridges, +sufficiently well-grassed, with the everlasting black soil, tea-tree +flats, and gullies running between them, some being very wide. Two +more horses died during the day from the effects of the poison, and +the Leader owns that he was beginning to be at his wits end as to how +they were to get along. Every superfluity and been abandoned, and, +with the exception of a few light things, such as clothes and +blankets, of too trifling weight to make it worth while to leave, and +only what was absolutely necessary, retained; yet there were barely +sufficient horses left to carry that. He had therefore good cause +for anxiety. The day kept tolerably fair until the party came into +camp, when the rain came down in torrents. Whilst in the hurry and +confusion of putting up the tents to protect the stores from the +deluge that was pouring, the alarm of "blacks" was again given. They +were fortunately unarmed, and the party easily chased them away. +This was fortunate, and was caused by the native custom of making the +gins carry their spears and shields on the march, themselves only +carrying a nulla or two. They were soon back again however, with +large bundles of spears, but not before the party had had time to +prepare for them. The rifles were dry and loaded. Frank Jardine +here owns to a feeling of savage delight at the prospect of having a +"shine" with these wretched savages, who, without provocation, hung +on their footsteps dogging them like hawks all through the thickest +of their troubles, watching with cowardly patience, for a favourable +moment to attack them at a disadvantage. Even then, however, he +would not be the agressor, but allowed them to come within sixty +yards, and ship their spears in the woomerahs, before they were fired +upon. The two foremost men fell to the only two shots that were +discharged, and their companions at once broke and fled; nor was the +advantage followed up, as the travellers were careful to husband +their ammunition, and their caps were running short. This, however, +was the last occasion on which the party was molested, their sable +adversaries having, probably, at length learned that "they were worth +letting alone," and never again shewing themselves. The distance +travelled was 8 miles. N.E. by N. + +'January' 15.--This being Sunday and horses, cattle, and men, being +in want of rest after the work of the last two days, it was +determined to make a rest day. The party employed part of the time +in spreading out the contents of the pack bags to dry, everything +having become mouldy with the constant wetting. The day was marked +too, by a grant feast of "stodge," doughboys, and jam, stodge being a +delicacy extemporised for the occasion, consisting of "flour boiled +with water to the consistency of paste, with some small pieces of raw +meat thrown into it"!! The Brothers spent part of the afternoon in +the mutual good offices of picking the pandanus thorns out of each +others feet and legs, the blackboys following their example. These +thorns were a constant source of small torture to the party. The +necessity of trying the ground in advance of the cattle prevented +them wearing boots, and thus feet and legs were left without any +protection, and exposed them day after day to the same annoyance. +Another horse, "Creamy," sickened from the effects of the poison. It +was thought that he had not taken enough to kill him, and that the +day's rest would set him to rights. A cow was also left bogged in +the swamp. The ground on which the party encamped was supposed at +first to be dry, being on a bloodwood ridge, with six or eight inches +of gravel on the surface, but the heavy rain of the previous night +caused the water to run through the tents to a depth of three inches. +It was only necessary to scratch a handful of gravel off the crust to +get clear running water for drinking. A heavy rain again fell during +the night, dispelling all hopes of sound travelling for the morrow. +(Camp LXIX. Bloodwood.) + +'January' 16.--The absolute necessity of getting at or near their +destination before the setting in of the periodical rains, stimulated +the Leader to urge the party to long stages, which was not at all +relished by some of the number, two of whom at starting made repeated +requests to camp for another day, alleging that they could not walk +any further. To this Mr. Jardine could not listen, and being further +importuned, disposed of the request summarily by packing their rifles +on the horses, and telling them that they might remain or come on as +they might elect. He heard no more grumbling, and a good stage was +accomplished. The country for the first two miles was similar to +that of the last two stages. It then suddenly changed into red sandy +stringy-bark ridges, with a dense under-growth of vines, zamias, and +pandanus, which made the walking difficult and painful. Several +creeks were crossed, the largest of which was at ten miles from the +camp, and running W. by N., and the party halted at another six miles +further on, which received the name of Dalhunty Creek. Its course +was west, and it was remarkable for the palms ('Seaforthia Elegans') +growing in its bed. All these creeks were supposed to be tributaries +of the Batavia River. The party had only to unpack the horses twice +during the day, and made a capital stage, but not without paying for +it, for even the Black-boys shewed signs of fatigue. Their legs and +feet, as well as those of most of the party were in a frightful +state, cut in peices by the thorny vines which covered the line of +march. They were now completely out of meat, but it would have been +unwise to halt to kill a beast for three reasons: first, the +weather; next, the fact that they could not pack the meat without +leaving behind something to make place for it, another of their +horses, Combo, having died to-day from the effects of the poison; and +lastly, the urgency of getting forward whilst the weather would admit +of it. The morning had been rainy, but in the afternoon it cleared +up and gave promised of a few fair days, of which it was expedient to +take advantage. In addition to the horse that died (Combo), two more +of their best horses (Rocket and Creamy) were fast sinking. It was a +fearful thing to see them dwindling away day by day, without power to +help or time to halt for them; but to press forward was a paramount +necessity. Distance 16 miles North. (Camp LXX. Applegum.) + +'January' 17.--The country traversed to-day was similar to that of +yesterday, save that the ridges were higher and more stony. Creeks +were crossed at two and ten miles, running strongly westward, which +appeared to be permanent. Five miles further on, the party camped on +a smaller one of the same character, having vine scrub and seaforthia +palms on its banks, which was named Skardon's Creek. The horse +Creamy died during the day, and Rocket through the night. These +losses reduced their horses from forty-two, with which they started, +to fifteen of the culls. They were in latitude 11 degrees 51 minutes +50 seconds, and by their dead reckoning, just about the track of +Kennedy, supposing it to have been correctly charted, and therefore +on the western slope of the dividing range. The Torres Strait pigeon +('Carpophaga Luctuosa') was again seen, and the bitcher +plant('Nepenthes Kennedya') first noticed. Two of the police saddles +had to be left at this camp in consequence of the loss of the horses. +Distance 15 1/2 miles. North. (Camp LXXI.) + +'January' 18.--The march to-day is described as being through the +most abominable country that can well be imagined, being a +continuation of loose white sandy ranges, thickly covered with low +bush from three to eight feet in height, broom, fern, grass-tree +('Xanthoraea'), pandanus, and "five-corner" bushes, being thickly +matted together with prickly vine. Not a tree relieved the monotony +of this waste, and what was worse, not a blade of grass was seen for +miles. Several deep creeks were crossed, all running strongly with +clear pelluced water to W. and N.W. The timber when it occured was +bloodwood, stringy and iron-bark on the ridges, banksia, grevillia, +and several kinds of tea-trees in the gullies, which were +honey-combed and boggy. Two new kinds of palm were seen. The bush +which seems to be what Kennedy alluded to as "heath," could only be +got through by leading a horse ahead, the others following slowly +behind him, the cattle then following in their track. A straight +course was impossible, as all the boggy creeks and gullies had to be +run up to their heads before they could be crossed. A general +course, however, was kept of N. by E. The packs were continually +being knocked off the horses, occasioning great delay, so that only +12 miles were accomplished. Some black perch were caught in one of +the creeks, and scrub turkeys were seen. Poor "Nell Gwynne's" foal +knocked up to-day, after having kept up bravely since the mare's +death. Nothing remained therefore but to kill him. The party being +without meat, and it being impossible to stop in such a country to +kill a beast, part of his flesh was dressed and carried on, which was +a grateful addition to the food, and although two or three at first +refused to eat of it, the craving of hunger soon made them forget +their repugnance to horse-flesh. At night the horses had to be short +hobbled and a watch kept over them. The weather kept fine, raising +the hopes of the Leader of getting in before the rains. + +'January' 19.--Despite the watch kept over the horses, they got +away during the night, and a late start was the consequence. Several +hours were also lost at the first mile on the journey, in consequence +of some of the horses getting "upside down" in one of the deep narrow +creeks, which were constantly recurring, and having to be extricated. +These creeks run N.W., and take their rise from springs. They are so +boggy that in some cases, though perhaps only eighteen inches wide, +they had to be headed before the cattle could pass. The summit of +the range was reached in seven miles of similar country to that of +yesterday, resembling (identical in fact) in appearance and botanical +character, to the worst country of Botany Bay, the Surry Hills, and +coast about Sydney. A thick vine scrub was then passed, when the +party emerged on to some open ridges of red sandy soil, timbered with +bloodwood, stringy-bark, and nonda. They were now satisfied that +they were on eastern waters, as, whilst out sugar-bag hunting in the +evening, the Brothers saw the blue waters of the ocean about twelve +or fifteen miles to the eastward, a small arm of which was supposed +to be a bay to the northward of Cape Grenville. Their latitude was +11 degrees 46 minutes 36 seconds. The camp was pitched at the head +of a small creek running eastward. + +'January' 20.--After 4 miles of brushwood and scrubby range had +been accomplished this morning, further progress was stopped by a +dense pine and vine scrub stretching across the course. The cattle +were halted outside, whilst the Brothers made search for an opening +for them to get through, in doing which they came on to a narrow +track cut by the blacks. This they followed for more than two miles, +but were obliged to return at last, the vine ropes, tangle, and dense +scrub, making it hopeless to attempt taking the cattle along it. A +further search proved equally unsuccessful. The whole party had +therefore to turn back along their tracks for a couple of miles, then +turning east they travelled on that bearing. At about half-a-mile +they reached the eastern slope, from which the sea was distinctly +visible. A spur of the range was followed for about four miles into +rather better country, where the party camped, being well-grassed and +slightly timbered, though stoney. Although about 9 miles were +travelled over, the distance in latitude from the last camp could not +have been more than one-and-a-half miles. From a bluff on the range +a fine view of the low country and sea was obtained, and a bearing +taken to Cape Grenville of 117 deg. Blacks' tracks were very +numerous to-day, and it was evident by the neat cutting of the marks +on the trees that they were provided with good iron tomahawks. Many +turkeys' nests were found, but the eggs only benefitted the stronger +stomachs of the party, having young ones in them in most cases. In +crossing one of the boggy creeks, one of the horses jumped on to a +pack-saddle, and a hook entering his skin lacerated it dreadfully. + +'January' 21.--The course to-day was N.E. by N., along the eastern +slope of the Richardson Range, through a fearfully difficult country. +Seven deep scrubby creeks had to be crossed running strongly to the +westward, whose banks were invariably fringed with a thick scrub, +which had in each case to be cut through before the cattle could +pass: one in particular was so dense that it alone occupied three +hours in cutting. The cattle occasionally got their horns entangled +in the vines, and had to be cut loose. One cow got fearfully furious +at being thus arrested, and when extricated, galloped straight away, +and was no more seen. Over seven hours were occupied in making a +distance of about 8 miles, only 3 of which were spent in actual +travelling. A great variety of palms were seen in the scrubs, which +were covered with fruit and berries, but only the "Seaforthia," the +most graceful of the family, the 'Caryota Urens', remarkable for its +star-shaped fronds and the more common 'Corypha', of which the +colonial straw-hats are made, were known to the travellers. Latitude +11 degrees 37 minutes 46 seconds. + +'January' 22.--The country traversed to-day was of the same +description as that of yesterday, utterly without grass, and the same +tedium and toil were experienced in cutting through the vine scrubs +which bordered the running creeks. These were very numerous, and +quite uniform in their difficulty, a lane for the cattle having to be +cut through each. Some very large pines were noticed to-day (most +probably 'Araucaria Cunninghamii'), which, forming large and dense +scrubs, twice forced the party out of their course. The camp +to-night was a very miserable one, surrounded by scrub and brushwood, +without a blade of grass for the stock, or even a tree that could be +marked, and to add to their wretchedness, a heavy rain came down +which lasted till near midnight. Course N.W., 10 miles. (Camp +LXXVI.) + +'January' 23.--A steady rain poured down all to-day, and as +yesterday, the route alternated over and through desert wastes of +brush and tangled scrubs, the former telling with great severity on +the lacerated feet of the travellers. Their legs had the appearance +of having been curried by a machine. At the end of 9 miles they +luckily came on to a creek comparatively well-grassed on the banks. +This being the first that had been seen for three days, they joyfully +encamped on an open ridge. The timber comprised nonda, grevillea, +banksia, tea-tree, mahogany, and many other tropical trees not known. +The total distance travelled was 10 miles. N. by W. (Camp LXXVII.) + +'January' 24.--For the first three miles to-day, the country +remained similar to the generality, that is, scrub and heath, after +this it slightly improved, opening into coarse sandstone ridges, in +some parts strewed with quartz pebbles, either white or tinted with +oxide of iron. At two miles from the start a stream was struck, +running north, having a clear sandy bed thirty yards wide, which was +immediately concluded to be a head of the Escape River, and a +continuation of that crossed on the 22nd. Into this, numerous short +steep scrubby creeks discharge themselves from the range or ridge to +the eastward. These had, as usual, all to have passages cut through +them for the stock. At the end of about six miles, a heavy +thunder-storm coming on whilst the party were engaged in clearing, +the creek they were upon was sent up bank and bank by the storm +water, and barred their further progress. They were therefore +compelled to camp. At sundown it was again nearly dry, but the rain +continued at intervals till midnight. During the day a large low +table-topped mountain was passed about 4 miles to the eastward. It +was either bare of timber or heath clad, and received the name of +Mount Bourcicault. (LXXVIII.) Distance 6 miles. N. by W. + +'January' 25.--A ten-mile journey was accomplished to-day, the +country for the first seven having slightly improved into red soil +ridges coarsely grassed, having patches of scrub along their summits. +The remaining three were of the usual character, heath and brushwood, +in the midst of which, in a miserable hole as it is described, they +were obliged to camp. A delay of a couple of hours occured in +consequence of a thunder-storm flooding a narrow gutter that might be +hopped over. It was not until this subsided that the horses and +cattle could be made to face it, the poor brutes having been so +frightened with bogs and water, that the horses had to be led over +the smallest of them. The rain still continued to pour heavily at +intervals during the day. (Camp LXXIX.) No trees to mark. The +course was N. by W. + +'January' 26.--After two miles of travelling, the party again +struck the supposed Escape River. The stream was flooded, and at +this point fifty yards wide, and the bed clear of fallen timber. A +bloodwood tree was marked on both sides, on the S. bank. The country +on either side is of a red and white sandy soil, timbered with +bloodwood, mahogany, melaleuca and black and white tea-tree, coarsely +grassed, with heath and scrub running down to the banks in many +places. The river was followed down for 7 or 8 miles, its general +course being N.W., the party having to cut roads for the cattle +through the thick scrubs which lined the tributary creeks and +gullies, in four instances. At this distance a large branch nearly +equal in size, joins it from the south-east, to which the name of the +"McHenry"* was given. It being flooded and deep, the party traced it +upwards for about a mile from its junction and encamped. The tents +being pitched and everything made secure for the night, the Brothers +explored up the stream in search of a good crossing place for the +morrow. After several trials were made, a spot was finally decided +upon, about three-quarters-of-a-mile from the camp, and they returned +with the pleasing prospect of having to swim the cattle and horses +over next day, and carry the packs on their heads. Black and white +cockatoos, some parrots, scrub turkeys ('Talegalla Lathami'), and +white pigeons (Torres Straits), were seen on the march, throughout +which the rain still continued to fall, as it did also during the +night. At this camp (80) the last of the sugar was finished, but +this was not thought much of, as from the latitude being ascertained +to be 11 degrees 10 minutes, it was supposed that Somerset could not +be more than 20 or 30 miles distant. How they were undeceived in +their conjecture, and had their hopes disappointed, will be seen. + +[footnote] *After Captain J. McHenry, of Arthur Downs, Isaac River. + +'January' 27.--Early this morning the party addressed themselves to +the task of crossing the McHenry. This was accomplished in safety, +cattle and horses taking the water like dogs, the greater difficulty +being in getting over the packs, saddles, and stores, which had to be +carried on the heads of the swimmers of the party, and this necessary +part of a bushman's education was not common to all, or at least +sufficiently to be of use. The course was then continued on the +other side to the junction of the two streams. The rain continued to +fall steadily during most of the day, filling up every little creek +and gutter. Some of the former had to be swum over, whilst the +latter occured at every mile. Just below the junction there is a +large dense vine-scrub, which had to be skirted, after which, the +party continued their course down the supposed Escape, which had now +increased its width to a hundred yards. Its width when first struck, +was only twenty, increasing to forty or fifty at its junction with +the McHenry, when the united streams form an imposing river. Its +course is extremely winding, whilst the numberless creeks and gulleys +which join it, all with scrubby banks, make travelling along its +banks, a work of great labor and difficulty. The country on this +day's march slightly improved, being more open and better grassed, +the best being on the river banks, but coarse and sparse at best. +The timber chiefly bloodwood and black tea-tree. Several trees were +marked with a cross at the crossing place of the McHenry, and one +similarly at the point of the scrub below the junction. In +consequence of the many delays to-day the total distance travelled +was only 5 miles. Course N. by W. (Camp LXXXI.) + +'January' 28.--The course of the river was followed down to-day for +about two-and-a-half miles, but the endlessly recurring water +courses, each with its eternal fringe of thick vine scrub, at last +compelled the party to turn to the west in order to avoid them, there +being no time to cut roads for the cattle. They were constantly +getting entangled by the horns in the hanging vines of the 'Calamus +Australis' and 'Flagetlaria', so often referred to. The effect of +this on some was to work them into such a perfect fury, that when +released by the party cutting them clear, they would in some +instances rush blindly away from the herd and be lost, as described +before. The intention on starting was to run the river down to the +head of the tide, and then establish a camp, where the cattle could +stay, whilst the Brothers went on to find Somerset, now supposed to +be not far distant. On leaving the river the course was shaped west, +to head the scrubs on the tributaries, but this, far from improving +the travelling, made it worse as they got into a maze of scrub, +heath, and swamps, through which they had to thread their course. +They, had therefore, to make their way back to the river, which was +again struck in about 7 miles. It was here running north, the bed +free from fallen timber, and about 150 yards wide, and so full and +flooded as to make it impossible to discover whether it was within +the tidal influence or not. Following the river for 4 miles, making +a total journey of 12, the rain pouring the whole day, the party +camped on the bank, where alone grass was to be found, and that even +very poor and thin. Two of the horses "Tabinga," and "Pussey," had +to be left about three miles back from the camp with their saddles, +utterly knocked up. A lame heifer was killed and cut up for jerking, +on the morrow. Course N.W. by N. Distance 12 miles. (Camp LXXXII.) + +'January' 29.--This day was devoted to rest, with the exception of +the necessary duties of jerking the beef of the heifer, and preparing +for the start of the Brothers to find Somerset. The horses left +behind were sent for and brought into camp, and dispositions made for +a halt, until the return of the Leader. The packs, saddles, and +stores were "overhauled," and found for the most part to be +completely rotted, from the constant rain and severe duckings they +had undergone, making the party congratulate themselves that they +were near their destination. At the request of Frank Jardine, Mr. +Richardson plotted up the route, as far as this camp, and gave him +his position on the chart, with a note "that camp 82 was on the +Escape River, eight miles in a direct line from where it joins the +sea, and sixteen miles from Somerset." In this, as in the case of +the position of the Lynd, he was mistaken, the reason for which, he +states to be that his sextant was out of order. This was much to be +regretted, as failing the correctness of the surveyor's observations, +Mr. Jardine might just as well trust to his own dead reckoning. It +might be supposed that Mr. Richardson having had an opportunity of +checking his position by the bearing to Cape Grenville, when he +sighted the sea on the 20th inst, at camp 74, should have been able +more accurately to have determined his present position, but he +excuses himself on the score of the difficulty of estimating the +daily distance whilst walking.* This is a very admissable +explanation, considering the tedium and slowness of their progress in +winding through scrubs, and being delayed by crossings, the +tortuousness of their route making it difficult to keep the course. +It was the more unfortunate, therefore, that the sextant, which was +naturally depended upon for keeping them informed of their progress, +should have been allowed to become so deranged, as to be less +reliable than the result of mere dead reckoning. + +[footnote] *See his Journal. + + + +CHAPTER V. + +First Start in Search of Settlement--Character of the Jardine-- +The Eliot--Return to Main Camp--Flooded State of River-- +Impromptu Raft--Crossing Horses--Uncertainty--Second Start in +Search of Settlement--View of the Ocean--Reach South Shore of +Newcastle Bay--Reach Mouth of True Escape--Unable to Cross--A +Dainty Meal--Character of the Escape--Return to Main Camp-- +Horses Knocked-up--Another Horse Dead--Flour Exhausted-- +Wretched Condition of Horses--More Baggage Abandoned--Prospects +--The Whole Party Again Move Forward--Another Horse Abandoned-- +Reach Head of Tide View of the Gulf--Barne Island--Return up the +Jardine--Third Start in Search of Settlement--Wild Grape-- +Crossing Saddles--a Disappointment--Head the Escape River--Meet +Friendly Natives--Natives Act as Pilots--Native Bread--Canoes +--Corroboree--Native Drums--Arrival at Somerset--Mr. Jardine's +Marked-tree Line--Meeting with their Father--A Heroine. + +'January' 30.--This morning, Mr. F. Jardine with his Brother and +the Blackboy, Eulah, started to find the Settlement, leaving the rest +of the party encamped with the cattle, in charge of Mr. Scrutton. +They took with them a week's ration of 25 lbs. of flour, and 12 lbs. +meat (tea and sugar had long been things of the past), intending to +follow the supposed river down to the head of the tide. It was +accordingly followed for about 21 miles, but to their astonishment, +instead of trending N.N.E., its general course was found to be +North-west 1/2 West. This led them to the conclusion that it was a +western water, and not as they had hitherto supposed, the Escape +River. Of this they were now convinced, but to make certain, agreed +to continue travelling down it for two days more, and with this +intent camped on a creek coming in from the southward. The margin of +the river is generally open and coarsely grassed, timbered with +mahogany, bloodwood, and melaleuca, the points of scrubs and +brushwood occasionally closing down to the stream. Its width varies +from one to two-hundred yards, with a sandy bed, entirely free from +fallen timber. Its banks are steep in many places, of white clay and +coarse sandstone, and fringed with tall melaleuca, whose long +drooping branches and leaves swept the rapid and deep stream. A +straight course was impracticable, for as soon as attempted, and the +river was out of sight, the party got entangled in thick brushes and +tea-tree swamps, without a blade of grass. They were obliged, +therefore, to follow the course of the river in all its windings. +The only birds seen were scrub turkeys, and Torres Strait pigeons. +The weather at starting was fine, but about 11 o'clock the rain +commenced, and continued steadily the whole of the day. At night, on +camping, a "bandicoot gunyah" was erected, and covered with the broad +pliable paper bark of the melaleuca, which made a snug shelter for +the night from the still pouring rain. Course generally N.W by W. +Distance following the river, 21 miles. + +'January' 31.--Crossing the creek immediately after leaving the +camp, the party still continued to follow the windings of the river +through similar country to that of yesterday, save that the ground +was more boggy, the swamps, ana-branches, and small lagoons more +numerous. On the latter some Coromandel geese were seen, of a +species different from those found near Rockhampton. The heavy rain +which had continued all last night had caused the river to rise +several inches. At about ten miles the progress of the party was +stopped by a large stream coming in from the South-east, about the +same size as the McHenry. A tree was marked AJ at the junction which +was very scrubby, and the new stream received the name of the Eliot. +It was running strongly, and had to be traced up for two miles, +before the party could cross in safety. This they fortunately +accomplished without accident, although the water was up to their +necks, as they waded across with their saddles and packs on their +heads, giving them all they could do to stem the rapid current. They +then proceeded on their way for 7 miles further, the last two of +which were through thick brush, and camped on the bank of the main +stream, now much augmented in size after receiving the waters of the +Eliot. There was but little grass for the poor horses, but no +choice, the country back from the river being all scrubs and swamps, +covered with tea-tree, but barren of grass. The total distance +travelled was 17 miles. The course generally West by South, clearly +proving that they could not be on the Escape. + +'February' 1.--The river was again followed for about seven miles +further, but as the course still continued to trend West, and even +south of West, the Brothers in disgust determined on re-tracing their +steps, satisfied, if satisfaction can be predicated of such a +disappointment, that they were on western waters, and that they had +not yet reached the looked-for Escape River. At this point, +therefore, they turned, intending to swim the river at the main camp, +and make another exploration to find the Settlement from the North +side, or right bank. By night-fall they reached their first night's +camp, where they found the "gunyah" very acceptable. They had now +followed the supposed Escape 45 miles; deducting a third for its +sinuosities, a distance of at least 30 miles in a straight line +Westward had been travelled, and they were filled with surprise that +so large and important a stream should have remained undiscovered. +Its width at their turning-point was over two-hundred yards, the +banks commencing to be very swampy, and it is described by Mr. A. +Jardine, as the most compact river, with the exception of the +Fitzroy, he had seen in the North. The rain continued as yesterday +during the whole of the day, accompanied with cold winds. This, +together with their disappointment, was sufficient to depress the +spirits of most men. There is not, however, in the journals of +either of the Brothers the slightest indication of despondency or +complaint. + +'February' 2.--The main camp was reached this morning early, and +everything found safe and right, save in one particular, that +deserves recording. In looking over the ration account, Mr. Jardine +found a deficiency of 30 lbs. of flour, accruing in the interval of +the four days of his absence. All denied any knowledge of it, and +all were equally certain that the allowance had not been exceeded; +"so" writes Frank Jardine, "where it is gone to, I am never likely to +know," and there the matter dropped. It is humiliating to think, +that amongst white men banded together in exploring parties, where +the success and safety of the enterprise are much dependent on the +good conduct of each individual member, there should be found +individuals so ignoble, as to appropriate an undue share of the +common stock of food on which the health, and perhaps the life of +each equally depends; and yet, sad to say, such instances are not +singular. The well-proved charge against Gray of cooking flour for +himself privately, for which he was chastised by poor Burke, is one +instance. Gray's excuse was that he was so ill, and his apologists +point to the fact that he subsequently died. Either Burke or Wills +would have died on the spot, rather than have taken an ounce more +than their meanest companion, and yet it has been asked why this man +has had no monument. Again, in the unfortunate expedition of poor +Kennedy (not far from their present camp), the storekeeper of the +partyof the name of Niblett, was discovered to have largely pilfered +from the stores for a considerable time previously. Who knows that, +but for the deficiency his greed caused, more of that ill-fated party +might have held out until the succour arrived, guided by the heroic +black, Jacky, who risked his own life to save that of his master, and +whose name is as worthy of being held up for honour as that of the +white man's for contempt. + +'February' 3.--This day was spent by the Brothers with their +black-boys in hunting for a good crossing place, or as they described +it, "doing a little water dogging." The river being two hundred +yards wide, and running rapidly, made it a difficult matter, and +after trying a number of places, it was found that as they were all +alike, deep and wide, they might as well cross opposite the camp. +This would not be without risk and danger, but the exigency of the +party made it necessary. Their flour was nearly exhausted, and they +had nothing else but the jerked meat of the beef they killed, and +what they could catch in the bush, to depend on. In this last, +however, as old hunters and bushmen, they were generally pretty +successful, supplementing and eking out their ordinary rations very +largely. The day previous their larder had been recruited by three +iguanas' eggs, a brush turkey ('Megapodius Tumulus'), and nine +turkeys' eggs. The rain came down as usual at intervals during the +day, which, added to the almost incessant rain of the four previous +days, brought the river down during the night, increasing its volume +and current so much as to make it dangerous to attempt crossing. + +'February' 4.--The river being too high to cross, the start for the +Settlement was postponed, the fagged horses getting the benefit of +the delay. A beast was killed in the evening. The weather clearing, +Mr. Richardson was enabled to get correct observations for the +latitude, having succeeded in putting his sextant into tolerable +adjustment. The readings gave the latitude of camp 82 to be 11 +degrees 11 minutes 39 seconds, or about 33 miles south from Cape +York. Part of the day was employed in constructing a raft to float +over the saddles, rations, etc. This was done by stretching a hide +over a frame of wood, but not without some trouble, as it was found +that the only wood light enough for the purpose, was dead nonda, and +this being scarce, had to be searched for. Before evening, however, +a raft was finished sufficiently light for the purpose. + +'February' 5.--The river having sunk considerably during the night, +the crossing was commenced this morning, despite the downpour of +rain, which lasted all day without a break. The stream was one +hundred and thirty yards wide, the banks fringed with scrub and +vines, and the current still running rapidly. It required therefore +strong and expert swimmers to get the horses across, the method being +as follows:--One of the party went in first with a line made fast +to the bit of the horse's bridle, and another followed, holding on to +his tail by way of rudder. Now as a horse can swim faster than a +man, and is of course heavier in the water, the leader has no easy +task even if the horse swim honestly for the opposite bank, but +should he turn back or boggle at all, man and line are alike +powerless; the use of the rudder therefore will be seen. When the +leader reaches the opposite bank, he has to scramble up nimbly, or he +may have the horse on him, and arrived there, be in readiness with +the line to assist him should he get entangled in the saplings and +vines which fringe the banks. It will be remembered that in crossing +the Batavia on the 11th January, two horses were drowned, in spite of +every care and precaution. Here, however, they were fortunate enough +to cross their four horses without accident, Mr. Scrutton, old Eulah, +and the black-boys doing good service, being all excellent swimmers. +The saddles and rations were then floated over in the raft, also +without accident, and the advanced party (the Brothers and Eulah) +camped on the north side, leaving the remainder of the party and +cattle in charge of Mr. Scrutton. Even now, Frank Jardine was +uncertain as to what stream they were on, and still leaned to the +belief that it was the Escape, his faith in the result of the +observations, having been shaken by the accident to the sextant. +They failed to assist him in his opinion, which was sorely puzzled by +the river running westward. He considered it, therefore, absolutely +necessary to find the Settlement before moving the cattle forward, +his horses being so weak, as to make it useless to travel on in +uncertainty. The necessity for reaching their journey's end was +becoming urgent, for their tea and sugar were exhausted, their flour +nearly so, and some of the party were complaining of being unwell, +and getting very weak. + +'February' 6.--The second start was made this morning, the Brothers +intending to find either the Settlement or the mouth of the Escape. +Their course for the first 15 miles was N.N.East, over barren white +sandy country, covered with brushwood and scrub. At 7 miles a large +deep running creek was crossed, running westward. Its south bank was +so densely covered with vine scrub, that they had to walk and cut +their way through it with their tomahawks. After crossing it, the +country suddenly changed to thickly timbered sandy ridges, some being +rocky, of course sandstone, the more elevated ones having belts of +impenetrable scrub running along their crest. At 12 miles a fine +sheet of water was passed, surrounded by sandy coarsely-grassed +ridges. At 15 miles, from a line of high ridges forming a +saddle-range, they had a view of the ocean, and could distinguish a +few small islands out to sea. It might have been seen sooner but for +the drizzling rain which fell with little intermission. The range +was of red soil, timbered with bloodwood, and stringy-bark. Two +miles further on the country improved still more, continuing from +thence into their camp, 6 miles. The course was altered from the +range to N. by E., and at 20 miles a white hill was reached, from +which they looked down on the sea about half-a-mile distant beneath +them. This was Newcastle Bay. Turning westward and skirting the +coast, they travelled 3 miles further on, and camped on a palm creek, +with very steep banks. Large flocks of the Torres Strait pigeons +flew over in the evening. Distance travelled 23 miles. + +'February' 7.--The good country traversed yesterday ceased at a +creek half-a-mile from the camp, on crossing which the party had to +cut their way as usual, after which the course skirting the coast lay +over a villainous country, boggy swamps, brushwood and scrub. After +travelling 7 or 8 miles their progress was arrested by a large stream +three-quarters-of-a-mile in width, running rapidly from the W.N.W. +Its banks were low and muddy, covered with a wide belt of dense +mangroves, its muddy and swollen waters carrying down quantities of +rubbish. This they correctly surmised to be the mouth of the +veritable "Escape" but Frank Jardine was again in error in supposing +it to be the same stream that they had left the cattle on. Seeing so +large a stream he naturally reverted to the idea that it had turned +on itself, and that their first exploration had stopped before +reaching the turning point. His case was dispiriting in the extreme. +The main camp was not more than 15 miles in latitude south of his +present position. The Settlement, the long-wished end of their +journey, could not be more than 20 to the North, yet his progress was +arrested by a broad and rapid river, to head the supposed bend of +which he had ineffectually travelled nearly 50 miles. His plan was +now to follow the Escape up in hopes of being able to cross at the +head of the tide, and so reach Somerset, but this, as will be seen, +was more easily planned than executed. Following up the course of +the river the way lay over a country which Alexander Jardine mentions +in his notes as "too bad to describe," pandanus swamps, vine scrubs, +and small creeks swollen by the rains to a swimmable depth, +succeeding one another along the whole stage. At the latter the +horses had always to be unpacked and their saddles taken over on the +heads of the party. Three hours were consumed in cutting their way +through the last of the vine scrubs, when they camped on the outside, +three of the horses being completely knocked up. The Brothers then +walked to the river in hopes of finding a crossing place. This +however, proved hopeless. A thick matted fringe of mangroves nearly +three miles wide intervened between them and its bank, through which +it was next to impossible to make any headway. Their supper to-night +was augmented by a lucky "find" during the day of thirteen scrub +turkeys' eggs, which, though they would scarcely have been +appreciated at an ordinary breakfast table, were very acceptable to +tired and hungry travellers existing principally on jerked beef. +Eating what yolk or white they contained, they plucked and roasted +the chicks as a "bonne-bouche." Fires had to be kept going day and +night to drive away, and protect the poor miserable horses from the +march and sand-flies by day, and mosquitoes by night. These were, in +fact, the principal cause of the poverty and debility of the poor +brutes, who could never get a moment's rest to feed or sleep. +Twenty-two miles were accomplished to-day, despite their difficulties. + +'February' 8.--The journey was continued to-day up the Escape, the +course of which was very crooked, but generally N.W. by N. The +horses knocked up a few miles after starting. The party were +therefore obliged to walk and drive them before them. The country +traversed was similar to that of yesterday, so that they could not +get more than a-mile-and-a-half an hour out of the poor jaded beasts. +Three times they tried to make into the river bank, but without +success, from the great width and the density of the belt of +mangroves, and the soft mud. An old black's camp was passed in which +they found heaps of shells, turtle, and shark bones. In the evening +they caught a quantity of whelks and cockles, which, with an iguana, +and three turkeys' eggs, made a good supper. + +'February' 9.--The course of the river to-day was even more crooked +than yesterday, the nature of the country continuing the same, save +that the swampy ground was occasionally broken by ridges of +bloodwood, and stringy-bark. From a tree on one of these they had a +fine view of Newcastle Bay, and what was supposed to be Mount +Adolphus Island, the latter about 25 miles away, and could trace the +course of the river to where it debouched, by the stretch of +mangroves. Here, therefore, they were within 20 miles of their +destination, which they were tantalised by seeing, without being able +to reach. With difficulty they drove their horses before them for 7 +miles, when they turned out and camped, as well to hunt, as again to +try and reach the river. In the first they were pretty successful, +getting some turkeys' eggs and shell-fish, but the last they were +unable to do, mud and mangroves barring their way, whilst the salt +water proved to them that they were still within the influence of the +tide, and the stream was still between three and four hundred yards +wide. Despairing of being able to find a crossing to which they +could fetch the cattle, their horses being unable to cross the river, +to continue the search for Somerset in advance, and their scanty +provision of flour being nearly exhausted, Frank Jardine, reluctantly +abandoning the idea of getting into the Settlement, determined to +return to the cattle, and with them, head the supposed bend of the +Escape. Disheartening as this was, there was nothing else to be done +in the present state of the country. Distance travelled, 7 miles +westerly. + +'February' 10.--Turning their backs on the mangroves and swamps of +the Escape River, the little party faced for the camp, steering +S.S.E. The first four miles was through boggy, swampy country, +through which they walked, driving their horses before them. The +remainder was over the usual iron-bark and bloodwood ridges, fairly +grassed with coarse grasses, intersected with swamps and belts of scrub, +through one of which they were three hours in forcing their way two +miles. After 11 miles of this kind of travelling they camped, the +horses completely knocked up, the men in not much better condition, +having had to drag the horses out of bogs several times, besides +cutting through the hanging vines of the scrubs. Distance 12 miles. + +'February' 11.--The main camp was reached to-day, after another +fatiguing journey of 11 or 12 miles, the first 6 miles similar to +that of yesterday, the remainder through heath and brushwood. It was +sundown before they reached the river, which they found much swollen. +A heavy thunder-shower of two hours' duration, put up all the creeks +bank high, one of which, at about two miles from the river, they had +to swim across. Having struck it immediately opposite the camp, they +left their jaded horses with their saddles on the north side, and +swam across themselves to the party. During their absence another of +the horses, "Pussey," had died from exhaustion. + +'February' 12.--The meat at the camp being all consumed, it became +necessary to halt for a couple of days, in order to kill and jerk a +beast. The flour too was now exhausted, save 10 lbs., which was +judiciously put by and reserved for an emergency. The day was spent +in crossing back the four horses, with saddles and swags. The cattle +were counted and some found missing; the Black-boys were therefore +sent in search of them. A beast was killed, cut up, and jerked, a +tedious task, from the absence of the sun. Although there were only +a few light showers towards evening, the air was damp; the meat, +therefore, had to be smoked under a covering. + +'February' 13.--The lost cattle were found to-day, the jerking of +the meat finished, and preparations for a final start on the morrow +completed. The unfortunate horses were in such wretched condition, +that it was found necessary to lighten the loads to the Settlement. +Four pack-saddles, two police saddles, and the two belonging to the +Brothers were therefore abandoned, with the remainder of the odds and +ends. The prospect before them was not very bright. With no +provision save jerked meat, and with knocked-up horses, they were +starting on a journey of at least 100 miles, when their destination +was not more than 30 miles away from them. they hoped to head the +bend of the river they were on (having reverted to the opinion that +it was the Escape), without knowing how far beyond the lowest point +of their first exploration this turning-point might be, or what +obstructions might be a-head of them. On the other hand, the whole +of the party were without sickness, and they had plenty of cattle to +eat. + +'February' 14.--A final start was made this morning from camp 82, +of dreary memory, after a good deal of trouble in packing, choosing +and rejecting what was too heavy or useless, and the other delays +attendant on the breaking up of an established camp. The river was +followed for 11 miles with the usual amount of bogging and +difficulty, in crossing the small trench-like creeks already +mentioned. In one of these they were compelled to abandon another +horse (Tabinga). The poor brute fell in trying to cross, and when +pulled out and set on his legs was too weak to stand. He had to be +left, therefore, saddle and all. Another (Pussy) having died at the +last camp, their number was now reduced to thirteen. Their loads +were reduced to the slightest possible, and consisted merely of the +jerked meat, the ammunition, and swags of the party. Distance 11 +miles. (Camp LXXXIII.) + +'February' 15.--A gloomy morning with light showers, 10 miles were +accomplished to-day. Three hours were consumed in crossing one of +the boggy gullies. Every horse had to be unpacked, and half of them +had to be pulled across with ropes. The pack of another horse (Lady +Scott) had to be abandoned. She was too weak to carry even the empty +saddle. The camp was pitched in the angle formed by the large creek +running into the river just below the gunyah camp of their first +trip, mentioned January 30th. (Camp LXXXIV.) + +'February' 16.--The Eliot was reached to-day 8 miles from the camp. +It had fallen considerably, but was still too high to allow of +crossing without taking off the packs. It was about thirty yards +wide, and running clear, about five feet deep, where the party +crossed. The camp was pitched on the main stream two miles further, +making a total of 10 miles for the day's journey. (Camp LXXXV. +Nonda.) + +'February' 17.--The lowest camp of the Brothers on their first trip +was passed to-day at about 6 miles. The total distance they +estimated they had travelled down the river on that occasion was 40 +to 45 miles, as it will be remembered that they went 6 or 7 miles +beyond this camp on the 1st of February. The true distance to the +turning point by Mr. Richardson's reckoning, was estimated at 35 +miles, which is probably correct. Mr. Richardson in his journal of +to-day's date says, "they told me they had travelled 20 miles North +and 30 miles West." A glance at sheet No. 14 will shew this to have +been an error; and in a foot-note at February 2nd, he states, "I +afterwards found that these distances were incorrect. The true +distances West and North respectively from the 82nd camp to the point +in our track where the Leader turned back, are about 24 miles W. and +7 N." Now, considering the tortuous course of the river, the nature +of the country, the weather, and obstacles of the creeks, 6 miles is +not a great error in westing. Mr. Richardson's own reckoning, +generally, despite his advantage over the Brothers, in having nothing +to do but follow the cattle, was not more to be depended upon, whilst +the results of his observations by the sextant were not so much so, +as he naively informs us he did not think he error in Latitude was +more than 15 miles! It appears evident therefore that the dead +reckoning of the explorers was of equal, if not greater value, as far +as the journey was concerned, than the surveyor's, the chief result +and use of whose presence in the party is, that we have been +furnished with a very excellent and interesting map of the route; but +it by no means assisted the Leader in the piloting of the Expedition, +or resolved his doubts when at fault, either at this point or on +leaving the Einasleih in search of the Lynd. The party camped at the +end of about two miles on the right bank of a broad deep creek +running in from S.W., when after turning out, some of them went +fishing, but only one small cat-fish was caught. + +'February' 18.--A slight rain fell during last night, but cleared +off before morning. The creek was crossed at about a mile from the +camp, cattle, horses, and men having to swim. The former took it +like water-dogs, and the latter had as usual to carry their saddles, +packs, and "traps" over on their heads. After ten miles of +travelling over poorly-grassed stringy-bark ridges, the country +resumed its old character of swamp, brushwood, and low scrubby banks, +flooded for four or five feet, the overflow filling swamps running +parallel, and about two or three hundred yards distant from the +river. This was followed during the day's march, and they were +elated with the hope that they had at length reached the much wished +for bend, the course being slightly to the eastward of north. It was +Mr. Jardine's intention to have again halted the party when they +reached this point, and once more pushed forward in search of +Somerset, but they were out of meat, and the party had started +without breakfast, there being nothing to eat. He therefore camped +at the end of 10 miles to kill a beast. there were a good many +delays during the march, chiefly to pull the exhausted horses out of +the constantly recurring bogs. Poor "Lady Scott" especially was with +great difficulty got into camp. Distance 10 miles, N. 1/2 E. (Camp +LXXXVII. Bloodwood) + +'February' 19.--To-day was chiefly devoted to rest, and the cutting +up, jerking, and smoking of the beef by the whites, the black-boys, +after the manner of their race, dividing it pretty equally between +sleeping and stuffing. The meat curing was as usual a slow process, +there being no salt, and a gunyah having to be made to smoke it in. +The river was here first observed to have a rise and fall in it of +about six inches. Its width was about a quarter of a mile. + +The latitude of this camp (87) is 11 degrees 11 minutes 13 seconds +The latitude of camp (82) is 10 degrees 58 minutes 2 seconds +The Northing therefore equals 13 minutes 11 seconds + +'February' 20.--It commenced to rain at two o'clock this morning, +and continued heavily as the party started. The river again turned +to the Westward, to their great disappointment. The course was +continued along it for 9 miles, when they were brought to a +stand-still by a deep creek with boggy banks, twenty yards wide, +flowing from the South. It was evidently affected by the tide, as +the water was slightly brackish and the edge fringed by a species of +mangrove. A crossing-place was looked for without success, and the +camp was finally pitched, as the rain was pouring heavily. (Camp +LXXXVIII.) + +'February' 21.--This morning the Brothers, taking old Eulah with +them, swam across the creek, alligators notwithstanding, and walked +to the top of a high stringy-bark ridge on the south side. Selecting +the highest tree he could find (a bloodwood) Alexander Jardine +ascended it with Eulah, and from its top branches got a view that +finally dispelled the doubts as to their position, and the identity +of the stream they had traced down. Before him, at about 3 miles +distant lay the mouth of the river, about 2 miles wide. Its course +could without difficulty be traced from where they were till it +debouched into the Gulf waters opposite a small island, which was +easily recognized as Barn Island, whilst to the North, Endeavour +Straits, and Prince of Wales Island could be distinctly seen. It was +now perfectly plain that the river they had followed was not the +Escape. They had therefore, been deceived a second time. It +received the very appropriate name of Deception, but has since, by +the direction of his Excellency Sir George Bowen, been charted, and +is now known by the name of the Jardine. Descending from his perch, +after half-an-hour spent in taking bearings by the compass to the +different points of interest, Mr. Jardine joined his brother, who at +once determined to return to camp 87, it being impossible to cross +where they were. Re-crossing the creek, they rejoined the party, +reaching the camp at sun-set, under a heavy downpour of rain. + +'February' 22.--Although it was raining heavily with every +appearance of a continuance, the party started to return up the river +in excellent spirits. The Brothers were now certain that they should +have no difficulty in finding the Settlement on their next trip. +They were, however, very much puzzled as to where such a large stream +as the Escape was found to be, should rise. They now re-traced their +steps, and camped close to their last camp LXXXVII. Six miles. + +'February' 23.--To-day was spent in killing and jerking a beast, +and preparing for the Leader's third start in search of the +Settlement. The rain poured down heavily, causing the river to rise +very fast. Another raft similar to that made at camp 83, had to be +constructed, a work of some time, for the only wood fit for making +the frame was dry nonda, which was scarce. The rain too, very much +impeded the drying of the beef, for which, as usual, a bark gunyah +had to be erected. Everything, however, was got well forward for the +important business of crossing the next morning. + +'February' 24.--The horses, saddles, and rations were all crossed +in safety to-day, though not without difficulty. In swimming the +horses particular care had to be taken, for there was only one small +spot on the other side at which they could be landed. As explained +on the 5th, on the occasion of the second start, it requires a strong +swift swimmer to lead a horse across a stream, and in this the white +men, or at least, three of them, were much superior to the +black-boys, who, although all good swimmers, were much more efficient +in the service of the raft. This only illustrates the rule that most +white men can beat the aboriginal in swimming fast, whilst the latter +has superior endurance; but there is no doubt, that under the same +conditions of education and practice, the civilized white man is +superior to the savage in any physical function or exercise. The +rain poured down consistently during the whole of the day, and a cold +cutting wind drove the swimming party at intervals to the fires, +where, whilst toasting the outward, they solaced the inner man with a +decoction of Scrutton's, by courtesy called, soup, being an 'olla +podrida', or more properly "bouillon," of the bones, gristle, head, +and oddments of the lately-killed beast. This was always a stock +repast after each kill-day, and there is but little doubt but that +its "osmazome" contributed not a little, to the good health and heart +of the party. Almost every exploring party on short commons, records +some favourite cookery, some dish that their souls loved. In +McKinlay's journey, the dish most in vogue was a kind of "amorphous" +black-pudding, made of the carefully-saved blood of the bullock, +horse, or sheep, as the case might be, boiled with some fat, and +seasoned with a little condiment, which being of light carriage, can +always be saved for such high occasions. In the present instance, +the fat was always devoted to the greasing of the saddles, +pack-straps, etc., during the latter part of the journey, when +clothing was at a premium; of the explorers themselves, "more +aboriginum," who found that the protection it afforded them against +cold, wet, and mosquitoes, far outweighed any slight redolence, +which, after all, could only be offensive to anyone not equally +anointed. At night the Brothers camped on the north side of the +Deception, or Jardine, leaving the party again to await their report +and return, the cattle being in charge of Scrutton. + +'February' 25.--There was an early start this morning, but the +little party did not make much headway that day, for after two miles +of boggy brushwood country their progress was suddenly arrested by a +sea of water, the overflow of a large creek, the outline of which +could be traced by a fringe of dark green foliaged trees. Some +fruitless attempts were made to cross it at different points. At the +narrowest part they could find, on running it down at a spot where +the channel was hemmed in by ridges on either side, it was still +half-a-mile wide, and running very strongly in the actual channel. +They therefore had to resign themselves to wait patiently till the +flood went down, apparently not a near prospect, for the rain still +continued to drizzle unceasingly. After hunting about for some time +they were fortunate enough to find a good dry camp when turning out, +they disposed themselves to await the subsidence of the water, with +what patience they might. The next two days were spent in hunting +for the pot, and exploring for a good crossing place. In the former +they met with no success, all they were able to find being a kind of +wild grape, about the size of a small marble. They are black and +sweet, and as Alexander Jardine describes, "very good to eat, but +they take all the skin off the tongue and lips!" On the evening of +the second day they had the pleasure of seeing that the creek was +slowly going down, giving promise that they might be able to cross it +on the morrow. + +'February' 28.--This morning they had the satisfaction of seeing +that the creek had fallen sufficiently to enable them to cross, but +not without swimming. At the spot they chose for going over the +stream was about fifteen yards wide, but the current very rapid. The +horses were crossed in the usual manner, swimming with their saddles +on their backs, but the rations, etc., were passed over by a +different method, one which did credit to the projector. A kind of +flying suspension bridge was improvised, by which they were slung to +the other side, in a manner proving that necessity is the mother of +invention. By attaching one end of their light tent-line to the +branches of an over-hanging tree on the hither side, and the other +end to a butt on the opposite bank, the "swag" slid down by its own +gravity, and was safely crossed. Their 'impedimenta' were thus +safely transported to the opposite bank, the whole process occupying +about an hour. They were well re-paid for their long patience, for +immediately on attaining the other side, the country changed into +good sound well-grassed stringy-bark ridges, which continued +throughout the whole stage, with the exception of a few broad +tea-tree gullies. They encamped at about 10 miles. Poor old Eulah +experienced to-day, what he felt was a cruel disappointment. Just +before getting into camp he espied what he supposed to be a fresh +turkey's nest (the 'Talegalla Lathami'); jumping off his horse, he +eagerly commenced rooting it up, expecting to be rewarded by a fine +haul of eggs. These, as is the habit of that bird, were deposited in +a large mound formed of sticks, earth, and leaves. His +disappointment and disgust were equal, and his language forcible and +deep, on finding that he had been anticipated--the big mound was +the abode of emptiness. The mystery was cleared up on going on a +little way, when they found a black's camp about two days old, where +the egg-chips shewed that the occupants had enjoyed Eulah's +anticipated feed, the piccaninnies probably amusing themselves +afterwards by filling up the nest to its original appearance. In the +evening, whilst Alexander Jardine, was preparing the frugal supper +(they generally ate their jerked meet raw, but on this occasion he +was cooking it for a change), the Leader and Eulah walked to the top +of a small sandy conical hill, about half-a-mile distant, when +climbing the highest tree, they could find, they were rewarded by a +fine view of Newcastle Bay, on the south-east of the bight, on which +they were now camped. They had also the great satisfaction of +finding that they had at last headed the Escape River. + +'March' 1.--"A nasty wet morning." The trio started early, +thinking it quite possible that they might "pull up" something or +other belonging to the Settlement before night, but they kept their +thoughts to themselves. They had had so many disappointments that +they felt that to hazard a guess even, was a mistake. After +travelling over a great deal of low scrub and brushwood, which, +however, was better than boggy ground ("to be without one or the +other," says Alexander Jardine "would have been too much to expect") +during a heavy shower of rain, about three o'clock, whilst riding +over some low sandy ridges they suddenly came on to a number of +blacks, camped on the outside of a thick scrub, at a point where it +abutted on a small creek. The travellers immediately unslung their +carbines, very dubious however as to whether they would go off (for +they were all damp,) and prepared for the customary "set-to." As +hitherto, in all these encounters, they had always without any show +of hostility on their part, been at once attacked, they were +surprised to find the blacks, who were very numerous, bolt into the +scrub, with the exception of three who stood their ground, and +holding up their empty hands shewed that they were unarmed, dancing +and shouting vociferously. Eulah was the first to detect what they +said, and reining up called out "hold on, you hearim, that one bin +yabber English." the brothers halted and listened. Sure enough they +distinctly heard the savages shouting excitedly "Alico, Franco, +Dzoco, Johnnie, Toby, tobacco, and other English words. It was now +evident that they had met with friendly natives, who were acquainted +with the Settlement, so they went forward and spoke to them. The +blacks still continued to shout their shibboleth, pointing to +Somerset, which they called "Kaieeby." After taking a rough +inventory of the camp, without, however, finding anything that could +have come from the Settlement, they started two of the most +intelligent in front of them, making them understand by signs, that +they wanted to be guided by the shortest route to Cape York. This +they had no difficulty in doing, for they were by far the most +intelligent blacks they had met with. The whole party now started +forward, the sable guides piloting them over the best ground. In +about 7 miles they arrived at a shallow salt-water creek, that +empties itself into a northern inlet of Newcastle Bay. Here they met +with a large body of unarmed blacks, who after making a great many +signs, came up and presented them with some spears and wommerahs, +which they had concealed in the mangroves, possibly as an earnest of +peace. They also brought them a villainous compound, in some +dilly-bags, a mixture of mangrove-roots and berries, pounded up into +a pulp, of a yellowish color. Although it was very disagreeable to +the taste, the travellers eat of it in token of confidence in their +hosts, or rather to make them believe that they trusted them, for +they were too well acquainted with the aboriginal nature to trust +them in reality, and kept a wary though unobserved watch. The tide +being in, and it being very late when the salt-water creek was +reached, the Brothers determined to camp with their newly-made +friends at their main camp, and accordingly followed them for about +two miles, when they again hit the salt creek. Here three large +canoes were moored to the mangroves, the largest was about 28 feet +long, and 30 inches wide, cut out of the solid butt of some large +tree, and very neatly finished. The tent was pitched, but not made +much use of, for after dark the travellers left it and camped +separately, each keeping vigilant watch all night. The natives spent +it very differently, and, whether in honor of the whites, or in +anticipation of picking their bones (it might have been either) they +held high corroboree till about midnight, keeping up a fearful din, +in which two large drums formed a prominent part. The name of this +kind of drum is "Waropa" or "Burra Burra," and it is procured in +barter or war from the Islanders of Torres Straits, who frequently +visit the continent. It is neatly made of a solid piece of wood +scooped out, in shape like an elongated dice box. One end is covered +with the skin of a snake or iguana, the other being left open. When +this instrument is played upon by a muscular and excited "nigger," a +music results which seems to please him in proportion to its +intensity; keeping time with these, and aiding with their voices, +they kept up their wild dance varying the chant with the peculiar +b-r-r-r-r-r-r-oo, of the Australian savage (a sound made by +"blubbering" his thick lips over his closed teeth,) and giving to +their outstretched knees the nervous tremor peculiar to the +corroboree. But a corroboree, like the ball of civilized life must +have an end, and at length the tired dancers sought their several +lairs, leaving the whites to watch the watery moon and lurid stars, +and listen to the dull plashing of the tide through the mangroves, +whilst waiting for daylight. + +'March' 2.--At daylight the party started forward, accompanied by a +strong detachment of "black guards," who were much disgusted when the +greater number of them were dismissed before they had proceeded far, +no doubt wishing and expecting to share in the "bacca" or "bissiker," +which would reward the pilots. Mr. Jardine selected the three they +had first met as guides, who turned out capital fellows. They +explained that to go straight they would have "mouro pia" much scrub, +and therefore led the way along the beach, carefully shewing the +horsmen the hardest places on the sands. In rounding one of the +rocky headlands, Eulah's horse fell with him, causing the greatest +amusement and merriment to the body-guard. To be laughed at by +Myalls was nearly too much for Eulah's equanimity, and could he have +had his own way he would probably have resented the insult. As it +was, his ire could only find vent in deeply muttered objurgations and +abuse. At about noon the party sighted the Settlement, and +involuntarily pulled up to gaze at the scattered and insignificant +buildings they had so long and ardently desired to see and struggled +to reach, hardly realizing that the goal was at last attained; when +they again moved forward theguides set up an admonitary yell, which +had the effect of bringing Mr. Jardine and their brother John to the +door. For a considerable time before the arrival of the overland +party, Mr. Jardine had not been without some uneasiness for the +success and safety of the expedition. The time for their probable +arrival had long elapsed. A report had reached him by the +"Salamander" from Rockingham Bay, that the party were on the Lynd, +unable to move forward for want of water, and that their provision +was exhausted, and finally the wet season had set in. To facilitate +their endeavours in finding the Settlement (a work of more than +ordinary difficulty, arising from the intricacy of the rivers and +scrubby nature of the country, at the apex of the Cape York +peninsula,) Mr. Jardine had cut a marked tree line for 30 miles in a +south-westerly direction, meeting a similarly marked line running +east and west from the head of the Kennedy to the west or Gulf Coast, +a distance of about 10 miles. On the latter and on either side of +the longitudinal line, trees were marked at intervals, with +instructions for their course, so that the party hitting the east and +west line would be guided to the junction of the first one leading +into the Settlement. The east and west line, it has been seen they +overran, the rapid tropical growth of the scrub having so far +obliterated it as to make it difficult to notice, or find, even if +sought for. Yet through any depression that might naturally be +induced by the delay, whatever his fears might have been for the +success of the expedition, he felt none for the safety of his sons, +well knowing and relying on their dauntless pluck, energy, and +fitness for the work. His parting injunction to them had been, that +whatever might betide, 'they should keep together'. He knew that he +would not be disobeyed, and felt firm in the faith that, should the +party by misfortune be reduced to their own two selves, with only +their tomahawks in their hands, they would make their way to him. +Thus, firmly reliant on the qualities of his boys, he waited with +patience, and his faith was well rewarded. On the morning of the 2nd +of March, Mr. Jardine being employed in some matters about the house, +during an "evendown" pour of rain, was disturbed by a loud shouting, +and looking out saw a number of blacks running up to the place. +Imagining that the Settlement was about to receive another attack, +(for the little community had already had to repulse more than one,) +he seized his gun, always in readiness for an "alerte" and rushed +out. Instead, however, of the expected enemy, he had the pleasure of +seeing his long-looked-for sons, surrounded and escorted by their +sable guides. For a long time previous, the natives who visited the +Settlement had been made to understand that Mr. Jardine expected his +sons with horses and cattle, and had been familiarized with their +names, "Franco" "Alico" as also with others such as "Somerset," "Cape +York," "Salamander," and "Toby," (Mr. Jardine's well-known retreiver) +the intention being that these should act as pass words when they met +the party, a wise precaution, which, as it has been seen, probably +prevented a collision. Thus, on nearing the Settlement the blacks +set up the shouts that had alarmed him, screaming out his name Joko, +Franco, Alicko, and such was the eagerness of each to prove that he +(smiting himself on the breast) was "Kotaiga" or friend, pointing at +the same time to the Brothers, as a witness of their truth, that it +was with some difficulty that the Father could reach his sons to +greet and welcome them. But for the horses they bestrode, even a +father's eye might have failed to distinguish them from the blacks by +whom they were surrounded. Six months of exposure to all weathers +had tanned their skins, and so reduced their wardrobe, as to make +their appearance primitive in the extreme, their heads being covered +with a cap of emu feathers, and their feet cased in green hide +mocassins. The rest of their costume was 'a l'ecossaise,' their +pantaloons being reduced to the waist-bands and pockets, the legs +having for a long time been matters of remembrance only. However, +they were hearty and well, in high spirits, and in good case. During +the hubbub caused by the tumultuous demonstrativeness of the natives, +an amusing episode occurred, which is worthy of record. The +attendant of Mrs. McClintock, a fine strapping girl from the Emerald +Isle, whose good humour and light-heartedness in the discomforts of a +new Settlement had earned her the name of cheerful Ellen, hearing the +tumult outside, and seeing Mr. Jardine rush out gun in hand, imagined +also that they were about to have another attack. Seizing her +mistress in her arms, with more kindness than ceremony, she bore her +away to her own room, where, having deposited her burden, she turned +the key on her, saying, "that was no place for her whilst fighting +was going on." Nor was it until she was well assured that there had +been a false alarm that the kind-hearted wench released her mistress +from durance. + +It must be left to the imagination of the reader to realize the +swelling feelings of joy and pride with which the Father grasped the +hands of his gallant sons. After a separation of more than ten +months, his boys had found their way to him at the extremity of the +Australian Continent, by a journey of over 1600 miles, whose +difficulties, hardships, dangers, and escapes, have seldom been +parallelled, and never been surpassed in the whole annals of +exploration. Had they, like poor Lichhardt, Kennedy, or Burke and +Wills, perished in the attempt, they would have been honored as +heroes, and a tablet or monument would been handed down their names +to posterity. As it was, thanks to a kind Providence, they were +living heroes, who had sturdily accomplished their work, and brought +their companions through without hurt or casualty. The modesty which +is ever the attribute of true merit, will probably cause their cheeks +to tinge in finding their exploits thus eulogized, but assuredly it +is no exaggeration of praise to say, that they have won for +themselves a lasting and honorable name in the records of Australian +Exploration. + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +Chose Site for Station--Native Method of Using Tobacco--Return +for the Cattle--The Lakes--Reach the Camp--Another Horse Dead +--The Whole Party Cross the Jardine--Raft Upset--Cargo Saved-- +Deserted by Guides--Final Start for Settlement--Another Horse +Abandoned--Horses Knocked Up--Cattle Missing--Choppagynya-- +Reach Vallack Point--Conclusion. + +On the afternoon of their arrival in Somerset, the Brothers, after a +"slight" luncheon, in which Mr. Jardine's preserved vegetables +received very particular attention, manned the whale-boat belonging +to the Settlement, and pulled over the Straits to Albany Island to +get fresh horses. Two were got over, but night coming on, the +crossing of the rest was deferred until the next day. The Strait is +three-quarters-of-a-mile wide, which, with a current running upwards +of five knots an hour, makes it an exhausting swim even for a strong +horse. The next morning three more horses were crossed. The five +expedition horses which these re-placed were in a miserable +condition. Three of them had given in on the preceding day, two +miles from the township, and had to be left behind for the time. +With the fresh horses the Brothers were enabled to take a look about +them, and select a site for the formation of a cattle station. A +convenient spot was chosen at Vallack Point, about three miles from +Somerset, to which it now only remained for them to fetch up their +companions and the cattle. Two days were spent in recruiting the +horses, the explorers themselves, probably, enjoying the "dolce far +niente" and change of diet. The black guides were not forgotten, and +received their reward of biscuit and tobacco. The manner in which +they use this latter is curious, and worthy of notice. Not satisfied +with the ordinary "cutty" of the whites, they inhale it in volumes +through a bamboo cane. The effect is a profound stupefaction, which +appears to be their acme of enjoyment. On the morning of the 5th, +taking with them their younger brother, John Jardine, and their two +guides, Harricome and Monuwah, and the five fresh horses, in addition +to their own, the Brothers started to return to the cattle party, who +were anxiously awaiting their return on the banks of the flooded +Jardine. The black pilots were made to understand where the camp +was, and promised to take them by a good road. The first stage was +to the Saltwater Creek, on which they had camped with the tribe, +which they reached in about 17 miles, passing on the way, three fine +lakes, Wetura, Baronto, and "Chappagynyah," at two, four, and eight +miles from Somerset. The road was a fair one for the cattle, keeping +along the line marked by Mr. Jardine the preceding year as before +mentioned, and only presented a few light belts of scrub to go +through. They were likewise enabled to choose a better crossing of +the Saltwater Creek, where the swamps join and form a defined +channel. The last two miles were very boggy, even the fresh and +well-conditioned horses getting stuck occasionally. + +'March' 6.--The camp was reached in the evening of to-day, at the +end of about 22 miles, but the black pilots were of very little use, +as shortly after starting they fairly got out of their latitude, and +were obliged to resign the lead to the Brothers, who hit the river a +little before dark, nearly opposite the camp. They found it about +the same height as when first crossed, but it had been considerably +higher during their absence. It being too late to cross, the party +camped on their own side, and Messrs. Harricome and Monuwah swam over +to see the new strangers and get a supply of beef. They returned +with nearly a shoulder of a good sized steer, which entirely +disappeared before morning, the whole night being devoted to feeding. +The quantity of meat that a hungry native can consume is something +astounding, but in this case beat anything that any of the whole +party had ever seen. The natural result was a semi-torpor and a +perfectly visible distention. + +'March' 7.--This morning the Brothers crossed over to the camp, +when they had the satisfaction of finding, on counting the cattle, +that a number were away, and when the horses were tried, two of them +were found missing, besides one that had died during their absence, +"Lady Scott." They were immediately sent for, and the remainder of +the party employed in preparing for the crossing, and killing a +beast. A fresh raft was made with the hide capable of carrying 400 +lbs. weight. The two Somerset blacks evinced a great deal of +surprise at sight of the cattle, and expressed it by chirping and +making various curious noises with their tongues and mouths. +Accustomed chiefly to fish, herbs, and roots, the succulent beef had +charms which outweighed surprise, and another night was spent in +feasting on the "oddments" of the fresh killed beef. + +'March' 8.--The missing cattle and horses were brought in with the +exception of three, which prevented the party crossing to-day, +although all was now in readiness. The river was still 200 yards +wide, and running strongly, so that it was expedient to cross the +whole together. + +'March' 9.--The three missing cattle not having been found, the +crossing operations were commenced at mid-day. The width and +appearance of the river made it difficult to make the cattle face it, +but they were all safely crossed after a little time, with the +exception of one, which broke away, and could not be recovered. The +pack-horses were then put over, which was easily accomplished, and it +then only remained to cross the packs and baggage. The raft answered +admirably, and everything was ferried over in safety, till the last +cargo, when a little adventure occurred, which nearly cost the life +of one of the party. Cowderoy, being unable to swim, had to be taken +across holding on to the raft, and was, therefore, left to the last; +all went well with him until within 30 yards of the bank, when, +whether from trepidation, induced by visions of alligators (with +which the river indeed abounds), or from an attempt to strike out +independently, he "succeeded" in upsetting and sinking the raft, and +was with some difficulty got to the shore "quitte pour la peur." In +truth it requires some nerve for a man who can't swim to cross a wide +and rapid river. Without a confiding trust in the means adopted for +his transport, a catastrophe is not an unlikely result. The writer +has known instances of persons crossing broad rivers supported by a +spear held between two blacks, by holding on to a bullock's tail, and +even sitting on a horse's back, but in every case the success of the +attempt depends almost entirely on the coolness of the individual, +and even with this essential, he has known some fatal cases, so that +Cowderoy might congratulate himself on his safe transit. The packs, +etc., which formed the last cargo, were recovered after some time, +the distance from the shore being slight, and Cowderoy soon recovered +his accustomed good humor. By four o'clock everything had been +crossed in safety, save the four beasts before mentioned; but on +camping for the night it was found that the guides had decamped, +their unwonted high feeding, having, no doubt, induced an +indisposition to work, a result not confined to blacks alone. + +'March' 10.--This morning the "Cowal," or watercourse, which had +detained the Brothers on their first trip, had to be swum over, and +here poor Ginger, one of the horses, got hopelessly bogged, and +though got out and put on his legs with saplings, was too exhausted +to go on,and had to be abandoned. The distance accomplished was 11 +miles. + +'March' 11.--The line marked by Mr. Jardine was followed to-day. A +scrub occurred on a creek called Wommerah Creek, through which it +took two hours to drive the cattle. Only 10 miles were made, and the +camp was pitched at about 4 miles from the mouth of the creek where +the corroboree was held. Three horses were knocked up during the +day, which prevented their gotting as far as intended. + +'March' 12.--On counting the cattle it was found that 30 head had +been dropped in coming through the scrub at Wommerah Creek. Two of +the black-boys were sent after them, and the Brothers went out to +find a crossing-place over Ranura Creek, (their last camp in +Somerset.) Here they met the same tribe, (known as Wognie's,) and +bartered "bacca" and "bissika," against "moro wappi," or fish, with +which the camp was plentifully supplied in the evening. The cattle +were recovered all but five. The country is described as being +composed of ridges of white and red sand, intersected by swamps of +tea-tree, pandanus, and banksia, the crest of the ridges being +generally surmounted by a patch of scrub. The timber, bloodwood, +mahogany, stringy-bark, and nonda. + +'March' 13.--A late start was made to-day, for some of the horses +were away. The camp was formed on the banks of the lake +before-mentioned, 8 miles from Somerset, Chappagynyah, which is +described as teeming with crocodiles. tThe next day the party +reached their final resting place, probably not without some +exhiliration in feeling that their journey was over. They were met +at Baronto, by Mr. Jardine, who had ridden out from Somerset for the +purpose. The camp was established at Vallack Point, where the +wearied horses and cattle at length found rest, whilst their drivers +were able to indulge in the unwonted luxuries of regular feeding and +uninterrupted sleep: luxuries which few but those who have +experienced hunger and broken rest can fully appreciate. They had +been on the road for 5 months, travelled over 1600 miles, the last +250 of which were, as we have seen, performed on foot, and by most of +the party barefooted, whilst for the last four weeks their food had +consisted chiefly of jerked veal, fish without salt, and the wild +fruits and herbs they might find in the bush. In addition to the +distance travelled over by the whole party, and over which the cattle +were driven, the Brothers traversed more than 1200 miles in their +exploratory trips ahead, looking for the lost horses, etc. Alexander +Jardine's journey down the Einasleih alone amounted to little less +than 300. It may be imagined, therefore, that the return to the +habits and fare of civilized life must have been an agreeable change. + +After an interval employed by the Brothers in forming a station at +Vallack Point, they returned with their father to Brisbane, in H.M.S. +Salamander, leaving their younger brother, John, in charge of the +newly-formed station, where the cattle were doing well. Mr. +Richardson left in the same vessel, and on arriving in Brisbane +immediately set to work to chart the route. Having every facility at +hand in the office of the Surveyor-General, the error of the river +Lynd was rectified, and a map compiled, shewing the route, from which +that now presented to the reader has been reduced. A glance at it +will shew that a large tract of unexplored country exists between the +track of the Jardines and that of Kennedy, which affords ample scope +for, and may possibly repay future explorations. Already stock is on +the road to occupy country on the lower Einasleih, and it is not +improbable that before long the rich valley of the Archer will add +its share to the pastoral wealth of Queensland. + +FINIS. + + +*** + + +[Plate: SOMERSET CAPE YORK. Lithograph.] + + +APPENDIX + +THE MELALEUCA ('Tea-tree Gum M. Leucodendron.') + +This tree, of which there are several varieties, is very common to +Northern Australia; the drooping kind ('Melaleuca Leucodendron'), +occupying the beds and margins of the rivers, where its long pendant +branches weeps the stream, as does the graceful willow of Europe. +Its bark is in thin paper-like layers, whilst its leaves are like +that of the gum, but thinner and straighter. It is remarkable for +containing an extraordinary quantity of brackish water, which pours +out in a torrent, when the bark is cut through, to the extent of from +a quart to a gallon. Another variety is found chiefly in flat sandy +country and shallow swamps. It is much smaller than that of the +rivers, and the leaves broader, stiff, and upright, its blossoms +nearly the same. It is indifferently called weeping gum, tea-tree +gum, and tea-tree, although it is in no way allied to the latter. It +is with the upright kind that the arid levels of the Staaten are +chiefly timbered. + + +GARRAWAN. + +This scrub, one of the numerous family of accacia, which together +with the pandanus, gave the travellers so much annoyance on their +journey, occupies a large extent of country about the Richardson +range, from the Batavia to Cape York. It much resembles, and is +probably identical with that which grows in the neighbourhood of +Sydney, to the appearance of which, indeed, that part of the +Peninsula closely resembles. + + +FLOCK PIGEON OF THE GULF ('Phaps Histrionica.') + +These beautiful pigeons which are alluded to by Leichhardt, are at +certain seasons found in immense flocks in the plain country about +the Gulf of Carpentaria. Their range is wide, as in 1846 they +appeared in flocks of countless multitudes on the Murrimbidgee River, +N.S.W., probably driven from their usual regions by drought. They +are described and figured in Mr. Gould's great work on the Australian +birds. + + +THE EINASLEIH. + +This river was erroneously supposed by its first settlers to be the +Lynd of Leichhardt. That such was not the case, was proved by +Alexander Jardine, who traced it down for 180 miles from Carpentaria +Downs, when he turned back, within about a day's stage of its +junction with the Gilbert, fully satisfied that it could not be the +Lynd. Since then it has, I believe, been traced into the Gilbert, +and thence to the Gulf. Its importance would lead to the supposition +that it was the principal branch of the Gilbert. There is an +excellent cattle country on the lower part, as described in the text +which has probably ere this been occupied by our pioneers. + + +THE NONDA ('Parinarium Nonda. F. Mueller.') + +This tree so named by Leichhardt's black-boys (described in Bentham's +'Flora Australiensis'), is very abundant north of the Einasleih, +which is possibly the extreme latitude of its zone south. It formed +an important accession to the food of the party, and it is highly +probable that their good health may be attributable to the quantity +of fruit, of which this was the principal, which they were able to +procure, there being no case of scurvy during the journey, a +distemper frequently engendering in settled districts, when there is +no possibility of varying the diet with vegetables. The foliage of +the tree is described as of a bright green, the fruit very abundant, +and much eaten by the natives. It is of about the size and +appearance of a yellow egg plum, and in taste like a mealy potatoe, +with, however, a trace of that astringency so common to Australian +wild fruits. The wood is well adapted for building purposes. + + +BURDEKIN DUCK ('Tadorna Raja'). + +This beautiful species of shelldrake, though not numerous, has a wide +range, extending from the richmond river to Cape York. It frequents +the more open flats at the mouths of rivers and creeks. + + +THE NATIVE BEE. + +This little insect (called Wirotheree in the Wellington dialect), the +invasion of whose hoards so frequently added to the store of the +travellers, and no doubt assisted largely in maintaining their +health, is very different from the European bee, being in size and +appearance like the common house-fly. It deposits its honey in trees +and logs, without any regular comb, as in the case of the former. +These deposits are familiarly known in the colony as "sugar bags," +(sugar bag meaning, aboriginice, anything sweet), and require some +experience and proficiency to detect and secure the aperture by which +the bees enter the trees, being undistinguishable to an unpractised +eye. The quantity of honey is sometimes very large, amounting to +several quarts. Enough was found on one occasion to more than +satisfy the whole party. Its flavor differs from that of European +honey almost as much as the bee does in appearance, being more +aromatic than the latter: it is also less crystalline. As the +celebrated "Narbonne honey" derives its excellence from the bees +feeding on the wild thyme of the south of France, so does the +Australian honey derive its superior flavour from the aromatic +flowers and shrubs on which the Wirotheree feeds, and which makes it +preferred by many to the European. + + +THE APPLE-GUM ('Angophora?') + +I have been at some pains to discover to what species this tree +belongs, but further than that it is one of the almost universal +family of the Eucalypti, have not been able to identify it. As +mentioned in the text, it was found very valuable for forging +purposes by the Brothers, who were able to bring their horse-shoes +almost to a white heat by using it. It is like box in appearance, +and very hard. + + +TERRY'S BREECH-LOADERS. + +This formidable weapon can hardly receive too high a commendation, +and to its telling efficiency is probably attributable the absence of +any casualty to the party in their many encounters with the savages. +Not only for its long range is it valuable, but for its superior +certainty in damp or wet weather, its charge remaining uninjured +after days and weeks of interval, and even after immersion in water, +making it available when an ordinary piece would be useless. The +effect of the conical bullet too is much more sure and complete, +which, when arms 'must' be resorted to, is of great importance. + + +THE MARAMIE. + +This shell-fish is to be found in almost all the Australian rivers +and lagoons. It is in size and appearance very much like the little +cray-fish or "Ecrevisses" which usually garnish the "Vol-au-vent" of +Parisian cookery, and of very delicate flavor. + + +SPINIGEX, Spear Grass, Needle Grass, or "Saucy Jack" ('Triodia Irritans.') + +This grass, so well known to all Australian travellers, is a certain +indication of a sandy sterile country. The spinifex found in the +Mally scrubs of the south attains a great size, generally assuming +the appearance of a large tuft or bush from one to two feet in +diameter, and twelve to eighteen inches high. When old, its sharp +points, like those of so many immense darning needles set on end at +different angles, are especially annoying to horses, who never touch +it as food, except when forced by starvation. In Northern Queensland +the present species is found abundantly from Peak Downs to Cape York. + + +FIVE CORNERS ('Stypelia?') + +This fruit is well known and very common in the neighbourhood of +Sydney, and was found in the scrubby region about the Richardson +Range, which, as before mentioned, is of similar character to that +description of country. It does not, so far as I am aware, exist in +any other part of Queensland. + + +THE NATIVE PLUM ('Owenia.') + +This tree, of which there are several species, ('Owenia Cerasifera' +and 'Owenia Vanessa' being most common in Queensland), is found along +the whole of the east coast, as far south as the Burnett, and is one +of the handsomest of Australian forest trees. Its purple fruit has a +pleasant acid flavor, and is probably a good anti-scorbutic. It is +best eaten after having been buried in the ground for a few days, as +is the custom of the natives. The stone is peculiar, having much the +shape of a fluted pudding basin. The timber is handsomely grained +and is of durable quality. + +On the subjects of the fruits, edible plants, and roots of +Queensland, Mr. Anthelme Thozet, of Rockhampton, whose name is well +and deservedly known to Botanists, has been at great pains to prepare +for the approaching Exhibition at Paris, a classified table of all +that are known as consumed by the natives raw and prepared, and to +his enthusiastic attention to the subject, we are indebted for the +possession of a large and important list, a knowledge of which would +enable travellers in the wilds of the colony to support themselves +from their natural productions alone, in cases where their provision +was exhausted. + + +THE CALAMUS ('Calamus Australis.) + +This plant belongs to a genuis of palms, the different species of +which yield the rattan canes of commerce. Its form in the scrubs of +the Cape York Peninsula is long and creeping, forming a net work of +vines very formidable to progress. + + +THE PITCHER PLANT ('Nepenthes Kennedyana.') + +This interesting plant was first noticed to the north of the Batavia +River, and is common to the swamps of the peninsula. It has been +described and named in honor of the unfortunate Kennedy, who first +noticed it. + + +THE FERGUSON OR STAATEN. + +This stream, whose arid banks Mr. Jardine was forced to trace to the +sea, in consequence of the sterility and waterless character of the +levels to the northward, is neverthless of some importance. Like +most of the northern rivers, it is a torrent stream, whose bed is +insufficient to carry off its waters during the flooded season, +causing the formation of lagoons, back-waters, and ana-branches, and +yet in the dry months, containing only a thread of water trickling +along a waste of sand, sometimes three or four hundred yards wide, +and at intervals loosing itself and running under the surface. +Should the northern branch which was seen to join amongst the +ana-branches near its debouchure prove to be the larger stream, that +followed by the party might still retain the name of "the Ferguson," +given to it by the Brothers, in honor of the governor of Queensland. +It receives Cockburn Creek, one of importance, which, just before +joining it, receives the waters of another large creek from the +south, which was supposed to be Byerley Creek, but this as mentioned +in the text, is unlikely, for when the Brothers were in quest of the +Lynd (which they never reached at all) they left Byerley Creek +trending to the south, at a point considerably to the west of the +longitude of that influence. It is more probable, therefore, that +Byerley Creek is a tributary of either the Einasleih or Gilbert, or +that it is an independant stream altogether, running into the Gulf +between the Gilbert and Staaten rivers. + +It appears unlikely also that any practicable route for stock will be +discovered between the coast which Mr. Jardine skirted, and the heads +of the rivers Staaten, Lynd, Mitchell, and Batavia. The interval +between Kennedy's track and that of the Brothers has yet to be +explored, when the best line will probably be found nearer to the +former than the latter, for the country between the Staaten and +Mitchell near their sources has been proven to be a barren and +waterless waste, the good country only commencing beyond the +Mitchell, and forming the valley of the Archer, but terminating about +the Coen. + + +FATE OF THE MULE. + +The fate of the unfortunate mule, whose loss was amongst the most +severely felt of the journey, has come to light in rather an +interesting manner. In a late letter from Cape York, Mr. Frank +Jardine mentions that some natives had visited the Settlement at +Somerset, amongst whom were seen some of the articles carried in the +mule's pack bags. On questioning them he found that they were +familiar with all the incidents of the journey, many of which they +described minutely. The mule had been found dead, having shared the +fate of Lucifer and Deceiver, and perished from thirst, and his packs +of course ransacked. They had watched the formation of the Cache, +when the party abandoned the heaviest articles of the equipment, and +in like manner ransacked it. These blacks must have travelled nearly +500 miles, for the Staaten is nearly 450 miles in a straight line +from Somerset, and were probably amongst those who dogged the steps +of the party so perseveringly to within 100 miles of Cape York, +frequently attacking it as described. From their accounts it appears +that the expedition owed much of its safety to their horses, of which +the blacks stood in great dread. They described minutely the +disasters of the poison camp on the Batavia, particularising the fact +of Frank Jardine having shot one of the poisoned horses, his +favourite, with his revolver, their start on foot, and other things. + From this is would appear that they closely watched and hung on to +the steps of the party, though only occasionally daring to attack +them; and proves that but for the unceasing and untiring vigilence of +the Brothers, and their prompt action when attacked, the party would +in all probability have been destroyed piece meal. The utter +faithlessness, treachery, and savage nature of the northern natives +is shown by their having twice attempted to surprise the settlement +whilst Mr. Jardine, senior, was resident there, although they had +been treated with every kindness from the first. In these encounters +two of the marines were wounded, one of whom has since died from the +effects, whilst others had narrow escapes, John Jardine, junr. having +had a four-pronged spear whistle within two inches of his neck. +Since then they have not ceased to molest the cattle, and in an +encounter they wounded Mr. Scrutton. They have utilized their +intercourse with the whites so far as to improve the quality of their +spears by tipping them with iron, a piece of fencing wire, 18 inches +long, having been found on one taken from them on a late occasion. +In his last letter Frank Jardine mentions an encounter with a +"friendly" native detected in the act of spearing cattle, in which he +had a narrow escape of losing his life, and states that, despite +their professions of friendship, they are always on the watch for +mischief. It is evident therefore, that no terms can safely be held +with a race who know no law but their own cowardly impulse of evil, +and that an active and watchful force of bushmen well acquainted with +savage warfare is necessary to secure the safety of the young +settlement. For a description of the habits and the character of the +Australian and Papuan races, which people the Peninsula and the +adjacent islands of Torres Straits, the reader is referred to the +interesting narrative of the voyage of the Rattlesnake, by Mr. John +McGillivray, in which the subject is ably and exhaustively treated, +and which leaves but little to add by succeeding writers. + + +THE MIDAMO. + +The "villanous compound, a mixture of mangrove roots and berries," +which was presented to the explorers by the friendly natives as a +peace-offering on first meeting them near Somerset, was probably what +is described as the "Midamo" in Mr. Anthelme Thozets' valuable +pamphlet already alluded to above on "the roots, tubers, bulbs, and +fruits used as vegetable food by the aboriginals of Northern +Queensland." The midamo is made by baking the root of the common +mangrove ('Avicennia Tomentosa'), which is called Egaie by the tribes +of Cleveland Bay, and Tagon-Tagon by those of Rockhampton. Its +preparation is described at page 13. + + +_____________ + +SOMERSET. + +A description of the settlement at Port Albany, Cape York, at the +time of the arrival of the Brothers has been carefully drawn up in +the shape of a report to the Colonial Secretary of Queenslandby Mr. +Jardine. It is so full and interesting that I cannot do better than +publish it in extenso. It first appeared in the 'Queensland Daily +Guardian' of 24th June, 1865. A letter from Mr. Jardine to Sir +George Bowen, reporting the arrival of the sons, and epitomising the +events of the journey, together with the report of Dr. Haran, R.N., +Surgeon in charge of the detachment of Royal Marines, on the climate +of Cape York, showing its great salubrity, are also added:-- + +PORT ALBANY. + +Somerset, March 1st, 1865. + +Sir,--My former reports to you having been, to a certain extent, +necessarily taken up with matters of detail in reference to the +formation of the new settlement of Somerset, and that object being +now in such a state of completion as to enable me to say that it is +fairly established, so far as the comfort and safety of the present +residents are concerned, I now do myself the honor to lay before you +the result of such general observations as I have been able to make +on what may be termed general matters of interest. + +2. The portion of the country to which my observations will +particularly apply is that which, I think, may correctly be termed +the "York Peninsula proper," and comprises the land lying to the +northward of a line drawn from the estuary of the Kennedy River, at +the head of Newcastle Bay, to the opposite or north-west coast. The +general course of the Kennedy River runs in this line, and from the +head of the tideway to the north-west coast the breadth of land does +not exceed six miles. The mouth of the river falling into the sea a +short distance to the southward of Barn Island will be nearly met by +the western extremity of this line. + +3. The land on the neck thus formed presents singular features. +There is no defined or visible water shed; a succession of low +irregular ridges, divided by swampy flats, extends from coast to +coast, and the sources of the streams running into either overlap in +a most puzzling manner. The large ant-hills which are spread over +the whole of this country may be taken as sure indicators of the +nature of the soils; on the ridges a reddish sandy loam, intermixed +with iron-stone gravel, prevails; on the flats a thin layer of +decomposed vegetable matter overlays a white sand, bearing +'Melaleuca' and 'Pandanus', with a heavy undergrowth of a plant much +resembling tall heath. Nearly every flat has its stream of clear +water; the elegant "pitcher" plant grows abundantly on the margins. +The timber is poor and stunted, chiefly bloodwood and 'grevillea'; +and the grass is coarse and wiry. + +4. Leaving this neck of barren and uninteresting country, the land +to the northward rises, and a distinct division or spine is formed, +ending in Cape York. From it, on either side, spurs run down to the +coast, frequently ending in abrupt precipices overhanging the sea; in +other places gradually declining to the narrow belt of flat land +which occasionally borders the shore. The formation is, I may say, +entirely sandstone, overlaid in many places by a layer of lava-like +ironstone. Porphyry occurs occasionally in large masses, split and +standing erect in large columns, at a distance resembling basalt. +The sandstone is of the coarsest quality, almost a conglomerate, and +is soft and friable; exposure to the air might probably harden it if +quarried, when it would be available for rough building. The ridges, +with very few exceptions, are topped with large blocks of ferruginous +sandstone, irregularly cast about, and are covered with a thick +scrub, laced and woven together with a variety of vines and climbers, +while the small valleys intervening bear a strong growth of tall +grass, through which numerous creeping plants twine in all +directions, some of them bearing beautiful flowers. Among them I may +particularise two species of 'Ipomea', which I believe to be +undescribed, and a vine-like plant, bearing clusters of fruit much +resembling in appearance black Hambro Grapes, wholesome and pleasant +to the taste. The scrubs are formed of an immense variety of trees +and shrubs, far too numerous for me toname, were I able to do so. +Some of them have fine foliage, and bear handsome flowers and +agreeably tasted fruit, and would form most ornamental additions to +our southern gardens and pleasure grounds. Several species of the +numerous climbing plants produce a fine and strong fibre, from which +the natives make their fishing lines. Some fine varieties of palm +are found on the moister lands near the creeks, two especially +elegant, a 'Seaforthia' and a 'Caryota'. A wild banana, with small +but good fruit, is also found in such localities. On the open +grounds the bloodwood, Moreton Bay ash, and a strong growing acacia +are the principal trees. Timber for building is scarce, and of very +indifferent quality. The iron-bark and pine are unknown here. + +5. The soil on these grounds is a reddish loam, more or less sandy, +and thinly covered with a coarse ironstone gravel. Much of the +ironstone has a strong magnetic property--so much so as to suspend +a needle; and it was found a great inconvenience by Mr. Surveyor +Wilson, from its action on the instruments. As the land descends, +the soil becomes more sandy. Near the creek patches with a +considerable mixture of vegetable loam are found, which would be +suitable for the growth of vegetables, bananas, etc. The grass is +generally long and coarse, and soon after the rainy season ceases +becomes, under the influence of the strong south-east winds, withered +and dry. Horses and cattle keep their condition fairly, but sheep do +not thrive; the country is quite unsuited to them. Goats may be kept +with advantage; and pigs find an abundant supply of food in the +scrubs and swamps. + +6. In the Zoology of the district, the careful researches of Mr. +M'Gillivray--the naturalist attached to H.M.'s surveying ship +Rattlesnake--have left little room for the discovery of many +positive novelties. I have, however, been able to note many +interesting facts in the economy and habits of the birds, especially +such as relate to their migration. Several of the species found here +are season visitors of New South Wales, and it is interesting to +compare the times of their arrival and departure in this place with +those in the southern colony. + +7. The animals afford small variety. The dingo, or native dog, four +species of the smaller kangaroos, and two other marsupials are found. +One, an elegant little squirrel-like opossum, striped lengthways with +black and white, I believe to be new. + +8. The birds are more plentiful. My collection comprises more than +one hundred species of land birds, many of them remarkable for beauty +of plumage, and peculiarity of form, structure, and habit. Among +them the most remarkable are the great black macaw, ('Microglossus +Atterrimus') the magnificent rifle bird, ('Ptiloris Magnifica') and +the rare and beautiful wood kingfisher, ('Tan Ts-ptera Sylvia'). The +latter first made its appearance here on the 30th of November last. +On the afternoon and night of the 28th and the 29th of that month +there was a heavy storm of rain, with wind from the north-east, and +the next morning the bush along the shore was ringing with the cries +of the new arrivals. To my constant enquiries of the blacks for this +bird, I was always told by them that when the wind and rain came from +the north-west the birds would come, and their prediction was +verified to the letter. They also say the birds come from "Dowdui" +(New Guinea). I think this probable, as several of the birds +described by the French naturalist, M. Lesson, as found by him in New +Guinea have also appeared here for the breeding season. The +'Megapodius Tumulus' is also worthy of mention, on account of the +surprising structure of its nest. The mound resembles, and is +composed of the same materials as that of the brush turkey +('Talegulla'), but is very much larger in size. Some that I have +measured are upwards of thirty (30) feet in diameter at the base, and +rise at the natural angle to a height of fifteen (15) feet or more. +It is wonderful how birds so comparitively diminutive can accumulate +so large a pile. These birds live in pairs, and several pairs use +the same mound. The eggs are deposited at a depth of from one to +three feet; the heat at that depth is very great, more than the hand +can bear for any length of time. I cannot say whether the young, +when released from the mounds, are tended by the parents; they, +however, return and roost in the mounds at night. The flesh of the +'Megapodius' is dark and flavorless, being a mass of hard muscle and +sinew. birds, which may be called game, are not numerous. The brush +turkey ('Talegalla'), the 'Megapodius', several species of pigeon, +with a few ducks and quail, comprise the whole. + +9.--Fish are in abundance, and in great varieties; some of them of +strange form and singular brilliancy of coloring. The grey mullet, +the bream--a fish much resembling in general appearance the English +pike--and several others, are excellent eating. + +10.--Three species of turtle are plentiful during the season, that +is, the period when they approach the shores to deposit their eggs, +the green, the hawksbill, and another species, which grow to a much +larger size than either of the above. The natives take large numbers +of the former; indeed, from the month of November till February +turtle forms their principal food. The green turtle are taken in the +water by the blacks, who display great address in "turning" them; +they are approached when asleep on the surface; the black slips +gently from his canoe and disappears under water, and rising beneath +the animal, by a sudden effort turns it on its back, and by a strong +wrench to the fore flipper disables it from swimming. The fisherman +is assisted by his companions in the canoe, and a line is secured to +the turtle. This is hazardous sport, and deep wounds are frequently +inflicted by the sharp edges of the shells, which in the female +turtle are very sharp. A singular mode of taking the hawksbill +turtle is followed by the natives here. This custom, though said to +be known so long back as the time of the discovery of America by +Columbus, is so strangely interesting that I will give a short +account of it, as I have seen it practised. A species of sucking +fish ('Remora') is used. On the occasion to which I allude two of +these were caught by the blacks in the small pools in a coral reef, +care being taken 'not to injure them'. They were laid in the bottom +of the canoe, and covered over with wet sea weed--a strong fishing +line having been previously fastened to the tail of each. Four men +went in the canoe; one steering with a paddle in the stern, one +paddling on either side, and one in the fore-part looking out for the +turtle and attending to the fishing lines, while I sat on a sort of +stage fixed midship supported by the outrigger poles. The day was +very calm and warm, and the canoe was allowed to drift with the +current, which runs very strong on these shores. a small turtle was +seen, and the sucking fish was put into the water. At first it swam +lazily about, apparently recovering the strength which it had lost by +removal from its native element; but presently it swam slowly in the +direction of the turtle till out of sight; in a very short time the +line was rapidly carried out, there was a jerk, and the turtle was +fast. The line was handled gently for two or three minutes, the +steersman causing the canoe to follow the course of the turtle with +great dexterity. It was soon exhausted and hauled up to the canoe. +It was a small turtle, weighing a little under forty pounds (40 +lbs.), but the sucking fish adhered so tenaciously to it as to raise +it from the ground when held up by the tail, and this some time after +being taken out of the water. A strong breeze coming on, the canoe +had to seek the shore without any more sport. I have seen turtle +weighing more than one hundred (100) pounds, which had been taken in +the manner described. Though large numbers of the hawksbill turtles +are taken by the Cape York natives, it is very difficult to procure +the shell from them; they are either too lazy to save it, or if they +do so, it is bartered to the Islanders of Torres' Straits, who use it +for making masks and other ornaments. + +11. Although there is a considerable variety of reptiles, snakes do +not appear to be very numerous. The common brown snake and +death-adder are found; carpet snakes (a kind of 'boa'), appear to be +the most common, and grow to a large size. They have been very +troublesome by killing our poultry at night. They seem to be +bloodthirsty creatures, frequently killing much larger animals than +they can possibly swallow, and are not satisfied with one victim at a +time. One which was killed in my fowl-house had three half grown +chickens compressed in its folds and held one in its jaws. A short +time since I was roused in the middle of the night by the piteous +cries of a young kangaroo dog, and on running out found it rolling on +the ground in the coils of a large carpet snake. The dog was +severely bitten in the loin, but in the morning was quite well, +proving that the bite of this reptile is innocuous. This snake +measured nearly twelve feet in length. + +12. Crocodiles are found in numbers in the Kennedy River and a +lagoon, which has communication with its estuary. They are also seen +occasionally in the bays in Albany Passage. + +13. Of the aborigines of Cape York I can say little more than has +already been so often repeated in descriptions of the natives of +other parts of the Australian continent. The only distinction that I +can perceive, is that they appear to be in a lower state of +degradation, mentally and physically, than any of the Australian +aboriginal tribes which I have seen. Tall well-made men are +occasionally seen; but these almost invariably show decided traces of +a Papuan or new Guinea origin, being easly distinguished by the +"thrum" like appearance of the hair, which is of a somewhat reddish +tinge, occasioned no doubt by constant exposure to the sun and +weather. The color of their skin is also much lighter, in some +individuals approaching almost to a copper color. The true +Australian aborigines are perfectly black, with generally woolly +heads of hair; I have however, observed some with straight hair and +features prominent, and of a strong Jewish cast. The body is marked +on each shoulder with a shield-like device, and on each breast is +generally a mark in shape of a heart, very neatly executed. The +large cicatrices which appear on the bodies of the tribes of Southern +Australia are not used here; nor is a front tooth taken out at the +age of puberty. The 'septum' of the nose is pierced, and the +crescent-shaped tooth, of the dugong is worn in it on state +occasions; large holes are also made in the ears, and a piece of wood +as large as a bottle cork, and whitened with pipe clay, is inserted +in them. A practise of cutting the hair off very close is followed +by both sexes, seemingly once a year, and wigs are made of the hair. +These are decorated with feathers, and worn at the 'corrobories' or +gatherings. The women hold, if possible, a more degraded position +than that generally assigned to them among the Australian aborigines. +They are indeed wretched creatures. The only covering worn by them +is a narrow belt of twisted grass, with a fringe of strips of palm +leaves in front. the men go entirley naked. The aborigines make no +huts. In the wet weather a rude screen of leafy boughs, with palm +leaves--if any happen to grow in the neighbourhood--is set up as +a shelter. + +14. The arms used by these natives are few and simple. Four sorts +of spears, made from the suckers of a very light wood tree with large +pith, headed with hard wood and generally topped with bone so as to +form a point or barb, are the most common. The end of the tail of a +species of ray fish is sometimes used as a point. It is serrated and +brittle, and on entering any object breaks short off. It is said to +be poisonous, but I do not believe such to be the case, as one of the +marines stationed here was speared in the shoulder with one of these +spears, and no poisonous effect was produced. The point which broke +short off, however, remained in the wound, and could not be extracted +for many months. The spear most commonly in use, and the most +effective, has merely a head of very hard wood, from a species of +acacia, scraped to a very fine sharp point. These are the only +spears which can be thrown with any precision to a distance--they +are sent with considerable force. I extracted two from the thigh of +one of my horses; the animal had another in the shoulder, which had +entered to a depth of five and a half inches. All spears are thrown +with the 'wommera', or throwing stick. A rudely made stone tomahawk +is in use among the Cape York natives, but it is now nearly +surperseded by iron axes obtained from the Europeans. I have seen no +other weapons among them; the boomerang and nulla-nulla (or club) are +not known. + +15. The greatest ingenuity which the natives display is in the +construction and balancing of their canoes. These are formed from +the trunk of the cotton tree ('Cochlospermum') hollowed out. The +wood is soft and spongy, and becomes very light when dry. The canoes +are sometimes more than fifty feet in length, and are each capable of +containing twelve or fifteen natives. The hull is balanced and +steadied in the water by two outrigger poles, laid athwart, having a +float of light wood fastened across them at each end--so that it is +impossible for them to upset. A stage is formed on the canoe where +the outriggers cross, on which is carried the fishing gear, and, +invariably, also fire. The canoes are propelled by short paddles, or +a sail of palm-leaf matting when the wind is fair. Considerable +nicety is also shown in the making of fishing lines and hooks. The +former are made from the fibres of a species of climber very neatly +twisted. The fish-hooks are made of tortoise-shell, or nails +procured from wreck timber. They are without barbs, and our +fish-hooks are eagerly sought for in place of them. + +16. The food of the natives consists chiefly of fish, and, in the +season, turtle, with roots and fruits. These latter and shell-fish +it is the business of the females to collect and prepare. They may, +however, be truly said to be omnivorous, for nothing comes amiss to +them, and the quantity they can consume is almost incredible. I have +seen them luxuriating on the half putrid liver of a large shark cast +up on the beach, the little black children scooping up the filthy +oil, and discussing it with apparently the greatest gusto. + +17. These remarks apply to the four tribes which inhabit the +territory within the limits mentioned at the commencement of this +report--viz., the peninsula to the northward of the Kennedy River. +These four tribes are not distinguishable from each other in any +distinct peculiarity that I can perceive. They keep each to their +own territory, except on the occasion of a grand "corroborie," when +the whole assemble. They are at present on terms of peace nominally. +Should a safe opportunity of cutting off a straggler offer, I have no +doubt it would be taken advantage of. They are cowardly and +treacherous in the extreme. The "Gudang" tribe, claiming the land +from Cape York to Fly Point, at the entrance of Albany Pass, is small +in numbers, having, I fancy, been seriously thinned by their +neighbours, the "Kororegas," from the Prince of Wales' Island, in +Torres' Straits, who frequently come down upon them. Paida, Mr. +M'Gillivray's 'kotaiga' (friend), was not long since killed by them. +The "Goomkoding" tribe, who live on the north-western shore, I have +seen little of. They and the "Gudang" seem to hold most +communication with the islanders of 'Torres' Straits, the +intermixture of the races being evident. "Kororega" words are used +by both these tribes, and the bow and arrow are sometimes seen among +them, having been procured from the island. The "Yadaigan" tribe +inhabit the south side of Newcastle Bay and the Kennedy River; the +"Undooyamo," the north side. These two tribes are more numerous than +the two first-mentioned, and appear to be of a more independant race +than the others, and gave us much trouble on our first settlement, by +continual thefts and otherwise. The tract of country which they +inhabit is nearly covered with the densest scrub and with swamp, into +which they took refuge with their booty as soon as any depredation +was committed, so as to render it next to impossible for us to pursue +them. These four tribes together do not number in all more than 250 +to 300 men. + +18. All these people are much addicted to smoking. Tobacco is used +by them in preference when it can be got. Before its introduction, +or when it was not procurable from Europeans, the leaves of a large +spreading tree, a species of 'Eugenia', was, and is still used. +These leaves must possess some strong deleterious or narcotic +property. I was for some time puzzled to assign a cause for so many +of the natives being scarred by burns. Nearly every one shows some +marks of burning, and some of them are crippled and disfigured by +fire in a frightful manner. They smoke to such excess as to become +quite insensible, and in that state they fall into their camp-fires, +and receive the injuries mentioned. The pipe used is a singular +instrument for the purpose. It is a hollow bamboo about 2 1/2 feet +long, and as thick as a quart bottle; one of the smoking party fills +this in turn with smoke from a funnel-shaped bowl, in which the +tobacco is placed by blowing it through a hole at one end of the +tube. When filled it is handed to some one who inhales and swallows +as much of the smoke as he can, passing the pipe on to his neighbour. +I have seen a smoker so much affected by one dose as to lie helpless +for some minutes afterwards. + +19. Thus much for the general appearance and habits of the Cape +York natives. A very accurate vocabulary of their language has been +published by Mr. M'Gillivary in his account of the voyage of H.M.S. +Rattlesnake. Of their superstitions I am unable to speak with +certainty. That they have no belief in the existence of a Supreme +Being is, I think, positive. They are, like all the Australian +tribes, averse to travelling about at night if dark; this, I believe, +chiefly arises from the inconvenience and difficulty of moving about +at such times, and not from any superstitious fear. They travel when +there is moonlight. They are true observers of the weather, and +before the approach of a change move their camps so as to obtain a +sheltered position. They do not seem to give the slightest thought +to cause or effect, and would, I believe eat and pass away their time +in a sort of trance-like apathy. Nothing appears to create surprise +in them, and nothing but hunger, or the sense of immediate danger, +arouses them from their listlessness. + +20. I am aware of the great interest taken by his Excellency the +Governor and all the members of the Government of Queensland in the +promotion of missionary enterprise. I much fear, however, that the +mainland here will be found but a barren field for missionary labors. +One great obstacle to successful work is the unsettled nature of the +people. No inducement can keep them long in one place. Certainly a +missionary station might be formed on one of the neighbouring islands +--Albany or Mount Adolphus Island, for instance, where some of the +young natives might be kept in training, according to the system used +by Bishops Selwyn and Patterson for the instruction of the +Melanesians. + +21. With the Kororegas or Prince of Wales Islanders, who, from +constant communication with the islands to the northward, have +acquired a higher degree of intelligence than the pure Australians, I +believe a successful experiment could be made. Missionary enterprise +beyond the protection and influence of this new settlement at +Somerset would, of course, at present be attended with considerable +risk. + +22. To the Banks and Mulgrave Islanders in Torres' Straits, a +similar remark will apply. Those people, however, seem to be of a +more savage nature, although intelligent, and giving considerable +attention to the cultivation of yams, bananas, etc. Both the good +and bad features in their characters may, I believe, in a great +measure be attributed to the strong influence exercised among them by +a white man, called by the natives "Wini," who has been living there +for many years. This man, who is supposed to be an escaped convict +from one of the former penal settlements in Australia, no doubt +considers it politic to keep Europeans from visiting the island where +he resides, "Badu". The natives of Cape York hold him and the Banks +Islanders generally in the greatest dread, giving me to understand +that all strangers going to these islands are killed, and their heads +cut off. The latter appears to be the custom of these and the +neighbouring islands towards their slain enemies. + +23. The natives of the islands more to the northward and eastward +are said to be of milder dispositions, especially the Darnley +Islanders--of whom Captain Edwards, of Sydney, who had a +"Bech-de-mer" fishing establishment there during the last year, +speaks in high terms as being of friendly dispositions and displaying +very considerable intelligence, living in comfortable huts and +cultivating yams, bananas, coconuts, etc., in considerable +quantities. Among these islanders I should think missionaries might +establish themselves without great difficulty, and with a +satisfactory result. + +24. I think that the simple fact of a settlement of Europeans being +established at Cape York will very much tend to curb the savage +natures of the natives, not only of the mainland, but also of the +islands, and any unfortunates who may be cast among them from +shipwrecked vessels will, at all events, have their lives spared; and +I believe that, should such an event take place, I should soon hear +of it from the natives here. The communication between the islanders +and the natives of the mainland is frequent, and the rapid manner in +which news is carried from tribe to tribe to great distances is +astonishing. I was informed of the approach of H.M.S. Salamander on +her last visit two days before her arrival here. Intelligence is +conveyed by means of fires made to throw smoke up in different forms, +and by messengers who perform long and rapid journeys. + +25. I should like much to send one or two of the Cape York natives +to Brisbane to remain there a short time. I believe that the reports +which they would bring back to their tribe of the wonders seen among +the white men would tend more than any other means to promote +friendly feelings towards us, and to fit their minds to receive +favourable impressions. + +26. From what I have previously said of the soil here, it will be +seen that no large portion of it is suited for agriculture. Even +were the land good, the peculiar climate, which may be considered dry +for eight months in the year, would not permit satisfactory +cultivation to any large extent. During the rainy months, from +December to April, vegetables suitable to the temperature may be +grown in abundance. + +27. Of the agreeableness and salubrity of the climate of Somerset, I +can not speak too favorably. The wet season commenced here last year +(1864) with the month of December, and continued till the latter part +of March. During that time the rain was intermittent, a day or two +of heavy wet being succeeded by fine weather. The winds from the +north west were light, and falling away to calm in the evening and +night. During this season the highest range of my thermometer was 98 +degrees in the shade; but it very rarely exceeds 90 degrees, as may +be seen from Dr. Haran's meteorological sheets. During the calms +immediately succeeding wet the heat was disagreeable, and mosquitoes +appeared, but not numerously. The nights were invariably cool. The +weather for the remaining seasons of the year may be termed +enjoyable. A fresh bracing breeze from the south east blows almost +continually, the thermometer averaging during the day from 80 to 85 +degrees. This temperature, with the cool nights, (sufficiently so to +render a blanket welcome) and delightful sea bathing, prevent any of +the lassitude or enervating influence so common to tropical climates +elsewhere from being felt at Somerset. + +28. During the time of my residence here no serious indisposition +has occurred among the European residents. Occasional slight attacks +of illness generally traceable to some cause, has taken place, but as +far as can be judged there is no 'local malady'. There has been no +symptom of fever or ague, which it was apprehended would be prevalent +during the rainy season, as in other hot countries. Dr. Haran, R.N., +(the naval surgeon in charge) reports very favorably of the salubrity +of the climate. I have every reason to believe with Dr. Haran, that +at no very distant period, when steam communication through Torres +Straits shall have been establish, Somerset will be eagerly sought by +invalids from the East as an excellent and accessible sanatorium. + +29. At all events, there can be no doubt but that the new settlement +will fulfil admirably the objects for which it was founded, 'i.e.', a +port of call and harbor of refuge for trade in the dangerous +navigation of Torres Straits, and a coal depot for steamers. + +30. I almost fear that in the foregoing remarks it may be considered +that on some subjects I have entered too much into details, while on +others my notices have been too slight. I have endeavored, as much +as possible, to confine myself to subjects of interest, and you may +rely on my statements as the result of personal observation. Should +there be any particular point on which the Government may require +more specific information, I shall be most happy, if it be in my +power, to afford it. + +I have the honor to be, Sir, +Your most obedient servant, +JOHN JARDINE, P.M. + + +------ + +PORT ALBANY. + +OVERLAND JOURNEY OF THE MESSRS. JARDINE TO THE PORT ALBANY SETTLEMENT. + +Somerset, May 1, 1865. + +Sir,--Since the date of my last report the most important +intelligence which I have to communicate is the arrival of my sons, +Frank and Alexander Jardine, with their overland party, all safe and +well, after an extremely arduous and toilsome journey of five months, +almost entirely over country which for the greater part may be termed +barren, the distance travelled over being somewhat more than 900 +miles. + +2. The party, consisting of my two sons and four other Europeans +(including Mr. Surveyor Richardson, attached to the expedition by the +Government of Queensland), with four aborigines of the Rockhampton +district, made their final start from Mr. J. G. McDonald's station, +Carpentaria Downs, in latitude 18 deg. 37 min 10 sec S., longitude +144 deg. 3 min 30 sec. E, (the farthest out-station on the supposed +Lynd River), on the 11th of October, 1864, and reached this place on +the 13th of March, ult. Rockhampton was the first point of +departure, my second son leaving it, with the horses and men, on the +16th of May, 1864, making the journey for them about 1800 miles. + +3. It would appear from the journals kept that a great portion of +the country on the west coast of the York Peninsula, especially in +the locality of the Mitchell River, is at times (I presume +periodically) subject to inundation; the water, however, soon +disappears from the flat and sandy land, and for the greater portion +of the year, till the next rainy season, the country is destitute of +water, and in other respects little better than an absolute desert. + +4. It is a subject of great regret to myself, and in which I am sure +you will share, that this long journey should be, so far as at +present appears, productive of so poor a result to the public in +developing new resources to the colony. However, a large and +valuable addition to geographical information has certainly been +gained; but at the same time few of the important discoveries in +lands suitable for pastoral or agricultural occupation, or in +minerals, etc., etc., and which might in so large a tract of country +have reasonably been expected, have been made. + +5. My sons have experienced a severe disappointment to their hopes +and expectations in the nature of the country around, and within a +reasonable distance of this place, as well as a heavy loss in +prosecuting their undertaking. However at their ages, 23 and 21 +respectively, the spirit is very buoyant, and they are again quite +ready for another venture. Their journey, which, from the nature of +the country traversed, has been one of unusual difficulty and +hardship; and it is surprising to me that, hampered as they were with +a herd of 250 cattle, for which providing food and water in a barren +and unknown country is in itself no easy matter, they should have +come through so successfully. + +6. Next to the general barrenness of the country, the difficulties +they had to encounter were--first, the destruction of a quantity of +their supplies and gear, through the camp being carelessly permitted +to catch fire during their absence in pioneering the route. Next, +the determined hostility of the natives, who were almost continually +on their track, annoying them on every favorable opportunity; on one +occasion, the crossing of the "Mitchell," opposing them so +obstinately that a considerable number were shot before they would +give way. Then the loss of two-thirds of their horses (all the best) +from eating some poisonous plant, and which necessitated the last 300 +miles of the journey being travelled on foot; and last, the flooded +state of the country during the season of the rains. And I think it +is not too much for me to say, that nothing but a thorough knowledge +of their business, supported by determined energy, could have carried +them through what must be considered one of the most arduous tasks in +exploration on record. + +7. I will not attempt in the small space of a letter to give you +more full particulars of the journey and its incidents. Mr. Surveyor +Richardson has, of course, his journal and maps of the route as +directed by the government, and from these, with the information +gained by my sons in their numerous "offsets" in search of the best +courses to follow, which will be placed at the disposal of the +Government, I believe a pretty accurate idea of the nature of the +country on the west coast of the York Peninsula may be gathered. + +8. My sons have at present formed their station near Point Vallack, +on the north shore of Newcastle Bay, between two or three miles from +the settlement of Somerset. They are on good terms with the natives, +and their black servants fraternise with them, but are kept under +strict rule. The natives of Cape York from the first have shown a +friendly feeling towards them, having, on their first arrival, met +them about twenty miles from the settlement, and shown them the +nearest way to it, and they have since been very useful in carrying +timber to build huts, stockyards, etc., etc; and I believe that for +the future, if well treated, they will offer no annoyance to the +present settlers. The establishment of a cattle station in the +neighborhood is of great advantage to the settlement, serving as an +outpost to secure its safety, and in opening up the country, besides +affording a ready supply of fresh meat. Already my sons and their +blacks have cut good passages through the scrub to the settlement, +and also through the various belts of scrub dividing their station +from open grounds; so that now a large extent of country can be +'ridden' over without obstruction. + +9. I have little else of importance to communicate. The affairs of +this settlement have gone on slowly but steadily. The several works +left unfinished are, under the charge of the acting foreman, Private +Bosworth, Royal Marines, (and of whom I can speak most highly for his +attention and work), completed, with the exception of the Custom +House, which is well advanced. + +10. The natives are on good terms with us, and work for us in +various ways, being duly paid in food, tobacco, etc. + +11. On the 23rd ultimo there was a slight shock of an earthquake +felt distinctly by myself and other persons here. It occurred in the +afternoon, about two o'clock, was accompanied by a rumbling sound, +but lasted little more than a minute. The health of the royal +Marines, and all other residents at the settlement, continues to be +very good, as will be seen from the report of the surgeon Dr. Haran, +R.N. I have the honor to be, Sir, + +Your most obedient servant, + +JOHN JARDINE. P.M. + +To the Hon. the Colonial Secretary, Brisbane. + +*** + +DR. HARAN'S REPORT. + +Somerset, May 22, 1865. + +Sir, + +It affords me much pleasure to have again to forward to your Excellency +a most favourable report of the climate of this settlement, and of the +uninterrupted good health of our small community, military and civil. +the dreaded summer season, with its calms, light winds and heavy rains, +has passed off without causing a single case of sickness, attributable +to noxious exhalations, which prevail at that season in most tropical +climates, but which, in my opinion, cannot exist here, owing to the +preventive causes enumerated in my letter of the 13th January last; +neither have we experienced that oppressiveness of the atmosphere which +its saturated condition at that season through the sun's direct +influence in favoring evaporation in the surrounding seas would lead one +to expect. Some slight oppressiveness was felt immediately before the +rains, but speedily disappeared on their occurrence. I can only account +for this valuable immunity by attributing it to some peculiarity of +climate, in all probability to the same causes which counteract the +evolution of noxious exhalations; for we did experience calms and very +light winds, and the hygrometer during the greater part of the time +indicated a very large amount of moisture in the atmosphere. + +2. The meteorological sheets forwarded by this opportunity, contain full +particulars regarding the winds, temperature, etc., for the last four +months, and having been prepared from a series of observations, +conducted with care and regularly registered, they cannot fail, amongst +other important objects bearing on general climatology, to afford +convincing proof that, as a climate, even during the summer season, that +of Somerset, although in close proximity to the equator, possesses many +advantages not attainable in higher latitudes, and is, in my opinion, +from its mildness and equable character, especially suited for such as +may have the misfortune to be predisposed to, or suffering from, +pulmonary consumption. + +3. The S.E. Trade ceased as a continuous wind in these seas on the 24th +December last. Calms, light winds, from all points of the compass, but +chiefly from the points between North and West to South, or against the +sun's course, and heavy rains, with electric phenomena of a +comparatively mild character, succeeded and persisted until the 11th of +March; when the sun's more direct influence having been diverted from +its course, and in a manner dissipated by the great heat and +evaporation, again resumed its ascendancy, and has continued since +without interruption. + +4. On the 25th of January two of the Marines were seized with a severe +headache and other suspicious symptoms while working in the sun during a +calm; and I consider it my duty at once to recommend such alteration in +the working hours as would protect the men from sun-exposure during its +period of greatest heat. These alternations were adopted, and continued +in force until the 22nd of March, when the former working hours were +resumed, as no danger was apprehended from solar heat at any time of the +day during the prevalence of the S.E. Trade wind. + +5. One well-marked case of scurvy became developed at the end of +January; and a few of several cases of cutaneous eruption under +treatment at the time closely resembled the symptoms characteristic of +that disease. the only anti-scorbutic dietary available, +viz.,--preserved meats and potatoes, compressed vegetables and lemon +juice, was issued at once, and continued on the salt-meat days for three +weeks, when all the indications of scurvy having disappeared, the usual +dietary was resumed. Since then the entire adult community have enjoyed +very good health. + +I am, etc., + +T. J. HARAN, Surgeon, R.N. + +His Excellency, Governor Sir G.F. Bowen, G.C.M.G. + + + + + +JARDINE'S JOURNAL--NOTES BY THE ETEXT-MAKER. + +Spelling errors and typos listed below are as shown in the paper text +and have been copied into the electronic text. + + +FRONT MATTER + +The footnote in the INTRODUCTION does not have a referent in the text-- +there is no asterisk in the text. It is not clear whether the +'settlement' it refers to as having been abandoned is at Adam Bay or in +Western Australia. + +P ix--'loosing' instead of 'losing' +P xi--re-placed + + +CHAPTER 1 + +There are several words in this chapter which do not conform to today's +spelling, but which appear in the paper text as copied: +p 1--faciliate +p 3--agreable +p 5--speers +p 5--Gaala Creek--(should be Galaa Creek) +p 5--discription +p 7--amunition + + +CHAPTER 2 + +P 9--amunition +P 9--earthern +P 9--cheifly +P 10--stoney +P 10--occuring +P 11--villanous +P 11--vestage +P 16--potatoe +P 16--oppossum +P 17--apparantly +P 18--despatch +P 18--amunition +p 19--muscles--probably should be 'mussels' +p 19--(about 18 miles....--no closing bracket +p 23--a cawbawn saucy--should probably be 'as cawbawn.... +p 23--agressors +p 24--succeded +p 24--'where' instead of 'were' +p 24--'frighened' instead of 'frightened' +p 26--emeu +p 27--double and single quotes on "Ferguson,' don't match +p 27--'spenifex' instead of 'spinifex' + + +CHAPTER 3 +P 30--too (too days) +P 30--dilirious +P 32--carcase +p 32--indispensible +P 32--chissel +P 33--'these' should probably be 'they' +p 33--pigmy +P 34--agreably +P 34--a-head +P 35--degnified +P 36--'course' instead of 'coarse' +P 37--steadilly +P 37--abondoned +p 37--wirey +P 38--cheifly +p 38--seives +P 38--permenantly +p 39--occuring +P 40 --frightended +P 40--bythe (all one word) +P 40--gratuitious + + +CHAPTER 4 + +P 42--they (no capital on beginning of sentence) +P 43--horses (no possessive apostrophe) +P 43--varities +P 44--varities +p 44--gulley +p 46--sheild +p 48--agressor +p 49--peices +p 50--bitcher plant--(instead of pitcher plant?) +p 50--pelluced +-------------------------------------------- + +CHAPTER 5 + +p 59--'course sandstone'--should probably be 'coarse' +p 63--a-head +p 64--the latitude measurements seem to have reversed the signs for + minutes and seconds in measuring latitude. I have spelled out the words. +p 67--'meet' instead of 'meat' +p 68--'eat' instead of 'ate' +p 69--horsmen +p 69--admonitary +p 70--Lichhardt +p 70--retreiver +p 70--mocassins + + +CHAPTER 6 + + +p 72--distention +p 73--'gotting' should be 'getting'? +p 73--exhiliration + + + +APPENDIX + +p 75--weeps the stream--should be 'sweeps the stream'? or was the + author being poetic? +p 77--SPINIGEX--should be 'Spinifex' +p 77--genuis--genus +p 77--neverthless +p 77--loosing--losing +p 78--vigilence +p 79--Thozets'--Thozet's +p 82--easly--easily +p 82--entirley +p 83--surperseded + + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Overland Expedition of The Messrs. +Jardine, by Frank Jardine and Alexander Jardine + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JARDINE EXPEDITION *** + +***** This file should be named 4521.txt or 4521.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/4/5/2/4521/ + +Produced by Amy Zelmer + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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BUXTON, BOOKSELLER AND STATIONER. + +_____ + +1867. + + + +TO + +SIR CHARLES NICHOLSON, BART., + +CHANCELLOR OF THE UNIVERSITY OF SYDNEY, etc., etc., etc., + +AS ONE OF +OUR OLDEST AND MOST DISTINGUISHED +COLONISTS. + +THE NARRATIVE IS INSCRIBED +WITH GREAT RESPECT, BY + +THE EDITOR. + + + +PREFACE. + +THE Settlement of Northern Australia has of late years been of such +rapid growth as to furnish matter for a collection of narratives, +which in the aggregate would make a large and interesting volume. +Prominent amongst these stands that of the Settlement of Cape York, +under the superintendence of Mr. Jardine, with which the gallant trip +of his two sons overland must ever be associated. It was a journey +which, but for the character and qualities of the Leader, might have +terminated as disastrously as that of his unfortunate, but no less +gallant predecessor, Kennedy. A brilliant achievement in +exploration, in a colony where exploring has become common and almost +devoid of interest, from the number of those yearly engaged in it, +its very success has prevented its attracting that share of public +attention to which its results very fully entitled it. Had it been +attended with any signal disaster, involving loss of life, it would +have been otherwise. Geographically, it has solved the question +hitherto undecided of the course of the northern rivers emptying into +the Gulf of Carpentaria, of which nothing was previously known but +their outlets, taken from the charts of the Dutch Navigators. It has +also made known, with tolerable definiteness, how much, or rather, +how little, of the "York Peninsula" is adapted for pastoral +occupation, whilst its success in taking the first stock overland, +and forming a cattle station at Newcastle Bay, has insured to the +Settlement at Somerset a necessary and welcome supply of fresh meat, +and done away with its dependence for supplies on importations by sea +of less nourishing salt provision. + +Starting from the then farthest out-station of Northern Queensland +with a small herd of cattle, these hardy young bushmen met with and +successfully combated, almost every "accident by flood and field" +that could well occur in an expedition. First, an arid waterless +country forced them to follow down two streams at right angles with +their course for upwards of 200 miles, causing a delay which betrayed +them into the depths of the rainy season; then the loss of half their +food and equipment by a fire, occasioned by the carelessness of some +of the party; next the scarcity of grass and water, causing a further +delay by losses of half their horses, which were only recovered to be +again lost altogether -- killed by eating a deadly poison plant; and +finally, the setting in of the wet season, making the ground next to +impassable, and so swelling the rivers, that when actually in sight, +and within a week's journey of their destination, they were turned +off their course, and were more than six weeks in reaching it. Added +to this, and running through the whole journey, was the incessant and +determined, although unprovoked, hostility of the natives, which, but +for the unceasing vigilence and prompt and daring action of the +Brothers, might have eventually compassed the annihilation of the +whole party. Had Leichhardt used the same vigilance and decision the +life of poor Gilbert would not have been sacrificed, and in all +probability we should not now deplore his own loss. But the black +tribes which dogged the steps of each expedition, and amongst whom, +probably, were the slayers of Kennedy and Gilbert, met at the hands +of the Brothers the treatment they deserved. If the lessons were +severe, they were in every case of the native's own seeking, and were +administered in fair and open combat, in which few of the white party +were without having narrow escapes to record; but a providential good +fortune seemed to attend them, for every member got through the +journey without accident. An account has been furnished to the +newspapers in the form of a journal by Mr. Richardson, the Surveyor +appointed to accompany the expedition, but it is much too brief and +epitomized to do justice to the subject, and omits altogether the +detached and independant trips of the Brothers whilst exploring ahead +to find the best country through which to take the herd; and, as the +Brothers Jardine themselves would probably much rather repeat their +journey than write a full account of it, it has devolved on the +Editor to attempt to put before the public a compilation of their +journals in such form as will give the narrative sufficient interest +to carry with it the attention of the reader to the end. Although +the matter is ample, this is no easy task for an unpracticed pen, for +to the general reader, the usual monotonous details and entries of an +explorer's notes, which alone give them value to the geographer, +cannot be hoped to excite interest or command attention. But the +journey was full of incident, and the Brothers, although not +scientific naturalists, were keen sportsmen, excelling in all +exercises requiring strength and activity, who had acquired from +their training in the bush that sharpening of the senses and faculty +of observing, the peculiar result of a life in the wilds, which not +only so well fitted them for the conduct of such an expedition, but +also enabled them to note and describe with accuracy the various +interesting objects in botany and zoology met with in the course of +their journey. It is therefore hoped that there will be sufficient +to interest each class of reader. Aided by Mr. Jardine, senior, a +gentleman of large experience in both Botany and Natural History, the +Editor has been enabled to supply the generic names of the birds and +plants met with; which, in many cases, if not altogether new, are +interesting as determining the range and habitat of the birds, and +the zones of vegetation and trees; but it is to be regretted that +there was no one in the party having sufficient knowledge of drawing +to figure such objects, or to delineate some of the more striking +scenes and incidents of the journey. As these can now only be +supplied from the graphic descriptions given by the actors in them, +the Editor, without drawing too much on his imagination, has, in the +compilation of the journals, attempted in some cases to supplement +what was wanted in the text, so as to give the narrative such color +as would make it more readable than a mere journal, but in every case +rendering the descriptions of the prominent incidents of the journey +almost in the original words of the writers, merely adding as much as +would save the text from abruptness. He has adhered to the diurnal +form of narrative, for the sake of recording, for the benefit of +future travellers, the numbers, marks, latitude, etc., of each camp, +and endeavoured to compass by this composite method the value of a +work of record with the interest of a narrative. + +It is also to be regretted that so long a time should have been +allowed to elapse between the end of the journey and the publication +of these pages. The causes of the delay are -- first, the +indisposition on the part of the Brothers to "go into print," their +modesty leading them to imagine they had done nothing worth "writing +about," nor was it until the writer pressed them to allow him to +compile and edit their journals that they consented to make them +public; next, the want of leisure on the part of the compiler, whose +official duties have prevented application to his task, save in +detached and interrupted periods; and last, by the difficulty of +making arrangements for publication at a distance. + +If his labor secures to the young explorers the credit and praise +which is the just and due reward of a gallant achievement, and adds a +page of interest to the records of Australian Exploration, his aim +will have been attained, and he will be fully rewarded. + +The Hermitage, 'Rockhampton, December', 1866. + + +INTRODUCTION. + +IN presenting the following pages to the Reader, it may not be out of +place to take a retrospect of the progress of Australian Settlement +generally, and particularly in the young northern colony of +Queensland. + +During the last six years the great question of the character of +Central Australia, in the solution of which the lives of the +unfortunate Leichhardt and his party have been sacrificed, has been +set at rest by the memorable trip of Burke and Wills, and no less +memorable, but more fortunate one of McDouall Stewart. The Search +Expeditions of McKinlay, Howitt, Landsborough, and Walker, have made +it still more familiar, their routes connecting the out-settlements +of South Australia with those of the Gulf Shores and East Coast, and +adding their quota of detail to the skeleton lines of Leichhardt, +Gregory, and Burke and Wills; whilst private enterprise has, during +that time, been busy in further filling in the spaces, and utilizing +the knowledge gained by occupying the waste lands thus opened up. + +It is questionable whether the amount of available country thus made +known has not been dearly purchased, by the very large sums that have +been expended, and the valuable lives that have been lost in its +exploration; the arid and waterless wastes of the interior, which +have now been proved equally subject to terrific droughts and +devastating floods, make it improbable that the Settlements of the +North Coast and the Southern Colonies can be connected by a +continuous line of occupation for many years to come; the rich +pastoral tracts of Arnheim's Land, the Victoria River, the Gulf +Coast, and Albert and Flinders Rivers, are thus the only localities +likely to be made use of for the present; these, however, have been +known since the first explorations of Leichhardt and Gregory; we are +forced, therefore, to the conclusion that the results of the +subsequent expeditions are not commensurate with their cost and +sacrifices, and to consider whether further exploration may not be +safely left to private enterprise. + +Let us now glance at what has been done since 1860 in the way of +occupation. South Australia has founded on theNorth Coast a +Settlement at Adam Bay, on the Adelaide River, but its progress seems +to have been marked from the onset by misfortune. The officer +charged with its formation, in a short time managed to raise so +strong a feeling of dissatisfaction and dislike amongst the settlers +as to call for a Commission of Enquiry on his administration, which +resulted in his removal. His successor seems, by latest accounts to +have raised up no less dislike, the difference of his rule being +likened by the papers to that of the fabled kings, Log and Stork. +The site of the Settlement, Escape Cliffs, has been universally +condemned; one charge against the first Resident being, that it was +selected in opposition to the almost unanimous opinion of the +colonists. The subject was referred for final report to John +McKinley, the well-known Explorer, who, bearing out the general +opinion, at once condemned it, and set out to explore the country in +search for a better. In this he has not discovered any new locality, +but has recommended Anson Bay, at the mouth of the Daly, a site +previously visited, but rejected by the first Resident. Previous to +his visit to Anson Bay, Mr. McKinlay started with a well-equiped +party for an exploring trip, which was to last twelve months. At the +end of five he returned, after one of the most miraculous escapes of +himself and party from destruction on record, having only penetrated +to the East Alligator River, about 80 miles from Adam Bay; here he +became surrounded by floods, and only saved his own and the lives of +his party (loosing all else) by the desperate expedient of making a +boat of the hides of their horses, in which they floated down the +swollen river, and eventually reached the Settlement. It is not +improbable that in some such a flood poor Leichhardt and his little +band lost their lives, and all trace of their fate has been +destroyed. These experiences have caused some doubt and despondency +as to the future of the new Settlement, and the question is now being +agitated in the South Australian Parliament as to the desirability or +not of abandoning it. + +Western Australia has formed the Settlements of Camden Harbor, and +Nickol Bay. The latter (the country around which was explored by Mr. +Francis Gregory, brother to the Surveyor-General of Queensland, in +1861), appears to have progressed favorably, the Grey, Gascoigne, +Oakover and Lyons Rivers affording inducements to stockholders to +occupy them, but the Settlement of Camden Harbor at the time of the +visit of Mr. Stow in his boat-voyage from Adam Bay to Champion Bay, +was being abandoned by the colonists, the country being unsuitable +for stock, and it would appear from that gentleman's account that the +whole of the north-west coast of the continent, from its general +character, offers but little inducement for settlement. + +[footnote] *Since this was written the settlement has been abandoned. +[NOTE -- the footnote in the INTRODUCTION does not have a referent in +the text -- there is no asterisk in the text. It is not clear +whether the 'settlement' it refers to as having been abandoned is at +Adam Bay or in Western Australia.] + +The explorations of Francis Gregory to the eastward from Nickol Bay, +and of the Surveyor-General to the south from the Victoria River, +were both arrested by wastes of drift-sand, whilst those from the +western seaboard have not been extended further inland than to more +than an average of 3 degrees of longitude. It may reasonably be +doubted, therefore, whether settlement will be much extended in that +direction. + +Queensland, more fortunate in the character of the country, has, on +her part, successfully established six new settlements, to wit, +Mackay, at the Pioneer River; Bowen, Port Denison; Townsville, +Cleveland Bay; Cardwell, Rockingham Bay; Somerset, Cape York; and +Burke Town, at the Albert River; and there can be little doubt but +that the country of the Gulf shores and the northern territory of +South Australia must be 'stocked', if not settled, from the same +source. Already have our hardy pioneers driven their stock out as +far as the Flinders, Albert, Leichhardt, and Nicholson Rivers, the +Flinders and Cloncurry having been stocked along their length for +some time past. On the South and West, the heads of the Warrego, the +Nive, Barcoo, and Thompson have also been occupied, some of the +stations being between four and five hundred miles from the seaboard, +whilst the surveyors of the Roads Department have extended their +surveys as far as the two last-named rivers, for the purpose of +determining the best and shortest lines of communication. The +Government, with wise liberality, has facilitated the access from the +seaboard to the interior, by the expenditure of large sums in +constructing and improving passes through the Coast Range on four +different points, and by the construction of works on the worst +portions of the roads, have largely reduced the difficulties of +transport for the out-settlers. Bowen, a town which had no existence +six years ago, has been connected with Brisbane by the telegraph +wire, and ere another twelve months have elapsed the electric flash +will have placed Melbourne, in Victoria, and Burke Town, on the Gulf +of Carpentaria, "on speaking terms," the country between the latter +place and Cleveland Bay having been examined and determined on for a +telegraph line by the experienced explorer Walker for that purpose. + +Of the six new settlements that have been called into existence, two, +Bowen and Townsville, have been incorporated, and are now, together +with Mackay, straining in the race to secure the trade of the western +interior. Cardwell has experienced a check, in consequence of an +undue haste in the adoption of a line of road over its Coast Range, +which is too difficult to be generally adopted, and will probably be +abandoned for a better since discovered; but its noble harbour is too +good, and the extent of back country it commands too extensive in +area, for it not ultimately to take its place as an important port. +Burke Town is but starting into existence, but already supplies the +settlers of the Flinders and other Gulf rivers with which it has +opened communication. Mr. William Landsborough, the well-known +explorer, has been charged with the administration of its affairs, +and a survey staff has been despatched to lay out the lands. Vessels +now trade direct from Brisbane with some regularity, which services +will, no doubt, soon be re-placed by steamers. + +But it is with Somerset, Cape York, that we have more especial +concern. In the August of 1862, Sir George Bowen, Governor of +Queensland, being on a voyage of inspection to the Northern Ports, in +Her Majesty's Steamer "Pioneer," visited Port Albany, Cape York, and +on his return, in a despatch to the Imperial Government, recommended +it for the site of a Settlement, on account of its geographical +importance, as harbor of refuge, coaling station, and entrepot for +the trade of Torres Straits and the Islands of the North Pacific. +The following year the formation of a Settlement was decided upon, +the Home Government sending out a detachment of Marines to be +stationed there, and assist in its establishment. The task of +establishing the new Settlement was confided to Mr. Jardine, then +Police Magistrate of Rockhampton, than whom, perhaps, no man could be +found more fitted for its peculiar duties. An experienced official, +a military man, keen sportsman, and old bushman, he possessed, in +addition to an active and energetic temperament, every quality and +experience necessary for meeting the varied and exceptional duties +incident to such a position. It was whilst making the arrangements +for the expedition by sea, which was to transport the staff, +materiel, and stores of the Settlement, that Mr. Jardine, foreseeing +the want of fresh provision, proposed to the Government to send his +own sons, Frank and Alexander, overland with a herd of cattle to form +a station from which it might be supplied. This was readily acceded +to, the Government agreeing to supply the party with the services of +a qualified surveyor, fully equipped, to act as Geographer, by noting +and recording their course and the appearance of the country +traversed, and also horses, arms, and accoutrements for four native +blacks, or as they are commonly called in the colonies, Black-boys. +Although the account of poor Kennedy's journey from Rockingham Bay to +Cape York, in which his own and half his party's lives were +sacrificed, was not very encouraging for the intended expedition, Mr. +Jardine never for a moment doubted of its success, and looked forward +to meeting his sons at Somerset as a matter of course. In the prime +of youth and health (their ages were but 22 and 20), strong, active, +and hardy, inured to the life and habits of the bush, with an +instinct of locality, which has been alluded to as having "la +Boussole dans la tete," they were eminently fitted for the task, and +eagerly undertook it when proposed. How well they carried it out, +although, unfortunately, with so little benefit to themselves, is +here recorded. Had poor Wills been associated with such companions +there would have been a different tale to tell to that which lends so +melancholy an interest to his name, and we should now have him +amongst us to honor, instead of a monument to his memory, a monument, +which in honoring the dead, rebukes the living. + +The loss of three-fourths of their horses, and a fifth of their +cattle, together with a large equipment, has made the enterprise of +the Messrs. Jardine, speaking financially, little short of a failure, +but at their age the mind is resilient, and not easily damped by +misfortune. On their return to Brisbane the Government, with kind +consideration, proposed to place such a sum on the Estimates of +Parliament as would indemnify them, and at the same time mark its +sense of the high merit and importance of their journey, but this, +through their father, they respectfully declined, Frank Jardine +giving as his reason, that as the expedition was a private enterprise +and not a public undertaking, he did not consider himself entitled to +any indemnity from the public. Opinions may be divided on such a +conclusion, but in it we cannot but recognise a delicacy and nobility +of sentiment as rare, unfortunately, as it is admirable. Yet, if +they have thus voluntarily cut themselves off from the substantial +rewards which have hitherto recompensed other explorers, they are +still entitled to the high praise and commendation of all who admire +spirit and determination of purpose, and cannot be insensible to +their applause. And it is in recognition that such is their due, +that the writer has undertaken to bring this narrative before the +public. + + + +CHAPTER I. + +Start from Rockhampton -- Alexander Jardine explores the Einasleih -- +Newcastle Range -- Pluto Creek -- Canal Creek -- Basaltic Plateau -- +Warroul Creek -- Parallel Creek -- Galas Creek -- Porphyry Islands -- +Alligators' tracks -- Bauhinia Plains -- Discovers error as to River +Lynd -- Return -- The Nonda -- Burdekin duck -- Simon's Gap -- +Arrival of the cattle -- Preparation for final start. + +On the 14th of May, 1864, the overland party which was to take cattle +to the new settlement at Cape York, was started by Mr. Frank Jardine, +from Rockhampton, under the charge of his brother Alexander. It +comprised ten persons, with thirty-one horses. The instructions were +to travel by easy stages to Port Denison, and there wait the arrival +of the Leader. In the following month, Mr. Jardine, senior, taking +with him his third son John, sailed for Brisbane, and shortly after +from thence to Somerset, Cape York, in the Eagle, barque, chartered +by the Government, for transport of material, etc., arriving there at +the end of June. + +Mr. Frank Jardine, taking with him the surveyor attached to the +expedition, Mr. A. J. Richardson, arrived at Bowen by sea, about the +middle of July, when the party was again moved forward, he himself +starting off to make the purchase of the cattle. Five more horses +were purchased on account of the Government in Bowen, for Mr. +Richardson, making a total of forty-two. The prevalence of +pleuro-pneumonia made it a matter of some difficulty for Mr. F. +Jardine to get suitable stock for his purpose, and caused +considerable delay. Arrangements having at length been made with Mr. +William Stenhouse, of the River Clarke, the party was divided at the +Reedy Lake Station, on the Burdekin, Mr. A. Jardine moving forward +with the pack horses and equipment, leaving the Leader with Messrs. +Scrutton and Cowderoy, and three black boys to muster and fetch on +the cattle. The advance party started on the 17th August, and +arrived at Carpentaria Downs, the station of J. G. Macdonald, Esq., +on the 30th. This was at that time the furthest station to the North +West, and was intended to be made the final starting point of the +expedition, by the permission of Mr. Macdonald, from whom the party +received much kindness. On their way they were joined by Mr. Henry +Bode, a gentleman who was in search of country to occupy with stock. +After remaining in camp at Carpentaria Downs for a few days, Mr. A. +Jardine decided on utilizing the interval, which must elapse before +his brother could re-join him with the cattle, by exploring the +country ahead, so as to faciliate the march of the stock on the final +start. Accordingly, leaving the camp in charge of Mr. Richardson, +with Mr. Binney, and two black boys, he started on the 3rd of +September, taking with him the most trusty of his black boys, "old +Eulah," and one pack-horse, and accompanied by Mr. Bode, who took +advantage of the opportunity to have a look at the country. As Mr. +Bode had his own black boy with him, the party comprised four, with +two pack-horses, carrying provision for three weeks. About the same +time Mr. Macdonald started with a party of three to find a road for +his stock to the Gulf, where he was about to form a station; the +account of which trip has been published bythat gentleman. + +The stream on which Carpentaria Downs station is situated was +supposed to be the "Lynd" of Leichhardt and was so called and known; +but as this was found to be an error, and that it was a tributary of +the Gilbert, it will be distinguished by the name it subsequently +received, the Einasleih. Keeping the right bank of the river which +was running strongly two hundred yards wide, the party travelled six +miles to a small rocky bald hill, under which they passed on the +north side; and thence to a gap in a low range, through which the +river forces its way. Travelling down its bed for a +quarter-of-a-mile, they crossed to its left bank, on to a large level +basaltic plain; but here the extent of the rocky ground made the +travelling so bad for the horses, although shod, that it was +impossible to proceed, and the river was therefore re-crossed. Five +miles more of rough travelling over broken stony ironbark ridges, +brought them to a second gorge, formed by two spurs of a range, +running down to the river banks on either side, where they camped, +having made about 15 miles on a general course of N.W. by N. To the +south of this gorge, and running parallel with the river, is a high +range of hills, which received the name of the Newcastle Range. +(Camp I.) + +'September' 4. -- Resuming their journey, the party passed through a +gap in the northern spur, described yesterday, about a +quarter-of-a-mile from the camp. From this gap a point of the range +on the south side was sighted, running into the river, and for this +they steered. At 4 miles a small lagoon was passed, 300 yards out +from the river, and a quarter-of-a-mile further on, a broad, shallow, +sandy creek(then dry), which was named "Pluto Creek." At 8 miles a +small rugged hill was passed on the left hand, and the point of the +range steered for reached at 9. At 12 a large well-watered creek was +crossed, and the party camped at the end of 18 miles on a similar +one. The general course N.N.W., and lay chiefly over very stony +ridges, close to the river banks. The timber was chiefly box, +iron-bark, and melaleuca, the latter growing in the shallow bed, in +which also large granite boulders frequently occurred. Though +shallow, it contained fine pools and reaches of water, in some of +which very fine fish were observed. Eighteen miles (Camp II.) + +'September' 5. -- After crossing the creek, on which they had camped, +at its junction, the party followed down a narrow river flat for four +miles, to where a large sandy creek joins it from the north. The +steepness of its banks and freedom from fallen timber, suggested the +name of "Canal Creek" -- it is about 80 yards wide. Two miles +further down a small creek joins, and at 12 miles a high rocky hill +was reached. From this hill a bar of granite rock extends across the +river to a similar one on the south side. A fine view was obtained +from its summit showing them the course of the river. Up to this +point the course had been N.W. After passing through a gap, +immediately under and on the north of the rocky hill they were forced +by the river into a northerly course for two miles, at which they +crossed a spur of the range running into it, so rugged that they were +obliged to lead their horses. Beyond this they emerged on to a +basaltic plain, timbered with box and bloodwood, and so stony as to +render the walking very severe for the horses. The basalt continued +for the rest of the day. At about 18 miles a large creek was +crossed, running into an ana-branch. The banks of the river which +border the basaltic plain are very high and steep on both sides. +Running the ana-branch down for four miles, the camp was pitched, +after a tedious and fatiguing day's march. (Camp III.) + +'September' 6. -- The ana-branch camped on last night being found to +run parallel to the course of the river, received the name of +Parallel Creek. Its average width is about 150 yards, well watered, +and full of melaleucas and fallen timber. The country on its north +bank down to its junction with the river 20 miles from the junction +of Warroul Creek, is broken into ridges of quartz and sand-stone, +stony, and poorly grassed. That contained between its south bank and +the river, the greatest width of which is not more than three miles, +is a basaltic plateau, terminating in precipitous banks on the river, +averaging 50 feet in perpendicular height. To avoid the stones on +either side, there being no choice between the two, the party +travelled down the bed of Parallel Creek the whole day. At about 9 +miles stringy bark appeared on the ridges of the north bank. Large +flocks of cockatoo parrots ('Nymphicus Nov. Holl.') were seen during +the day, and a "plant" of native spears was found. They were neatly +made, jagged at the head with wallaby bones, and intended for +throwing in the Wommerah or throwing stick. At the end of 20 miles +the party reached the junction of Parallel Creek with the river and +encamped. The general course was about N.W. (Camp IV.) + +'September' 7. -- The party was now happily clear of the basaltic +country, but the travelling was still none of the best, the first +nine miles of to-day's stage being over stony ridges of quartz and +iron-stone, interspersed with small, sandy, river flats. At this +distance a large creek of running water was crossed, and the camp +pitched at about two miles from its junction with the Einasleih. The +creek received the name of Galaa Creek, in allusion to the galaa or +rose cockatoo ('Cacatua Rosea'), large flocks of which were +frequently seen. The junction of Galaa Creek is remarkable for two +porphyritic rock islands, situated in the bed of the river, which is +here sandy, well watered, and about 300 yards wide. The grass was +very scarce, having been recently burned. The timber chiefly +iron-bark and box. Course N.W. 1/2 W., distance 10 miles (Camp V.) + +'September' 8. -- To-day the river was followed down over low broken +stony ranges, having their crests covered with "garrawan" scrub for 5 +miles, when the party was gratified by an agreable change in the +features of the country. Instead of the alternative of broken +country, stony ridges, or basaltic plains they had toiled over for +nearly 80 miles, they now emerged on to fine open well-grassed river +flats, lightly timbered, and separated by small spurs of ridges +running into them. A chain of small lagoons was passed at 12 miles, +teeming with black duck, teal, wood duck, and pigmy geese, whilst +pigeons and other birds were frequent in the open timber, a sure +indication of good country. At 13 miles a small creek was crossed, +and another at 18, and after having made a good stage of 25 miles the +party again camped on the Einasleih. At this point it had increased +to a width of nearly a mile, the banks were low and sloping, and the +bed shallow and dry. It was still nevertheless, well watered, the +stream, as is not unusual in many of our northern rivers, continuing +to run under the surface of the sand, and requiring very slight +digging or even scratching, to be got at. The general course +throughout the day was about N.W.1/2W. (Camp VI.) + +'September' 9. -- The course down the river was resumed over similar +country to that of yesterday. Keeping at the back of some low +table-topped hills, at 5 miles the party struck a fine clear deep +lagoon, about two miles in from the river, of which it is the +overflow. A chain of small waterholes occurs at 12 miles, which were +covered with ducks and other water-fowl, whilst immense flocks of a +slate-colored pigeon were seen at intervals. They are about the same +size as the Bronzewing, and excessively wild.* The river, when again +struck, had resumed running. It was still sandy and full of the +graceful weeping melaleuca in the bed, where traces of alligators +were observed. The country traversed throughout the day was good, +but the small plains and flats were thought likely to be swampy in +wet weather. Another good stage of 26 miles was made, and the party +again camped on the river. The general course was due west. (Camp +VII.) + +[footnote] * 'The Phaps Histrionica, or Harlequin Bronzewing.' + +'September' 10. -- Taking his course from the map he carried, shewing +the river running north-west, and depending on its correctness, Mr. +Jardine bore to the north-west for 15 miles, travelling over sandy +honey-combed rises, and low swampy plains, when he reached a +watershed to the north, which he then supposed must be the head of +Mitchell waters, finding himself misled by his map and that he had +left the river altogether, he turned south by west and did not reach +it before the end of 8 miles on that bearing, when the party camped +on a small ana-branch. The true course of the river would thus be +about W. by N. Total distance 23 miles. (Camp VIII.) + +'September' 11. -- This day's journey was over fine country. The +first course was N.W. for about 5 miles, to a large round shallow +lagoon, covered with quantities of wild fowl, and thence, following +the direction of the river into camp about 13 miles, over a +succession of large black soil plains covered with good grasses, +mixed herbs, and salt bush. The principal timber being bauhinia, +suggested the name of "Bauhinia Plains." Their width back from the +river extended to an average of six miles, when they were bounded by +low well-grassed iron-bark ridges. The river was broad and sandy, +running in two or three channels, and occasionally spreading into +long reaches. Large ana-branches, plentifully watered, left the main +channel running back from it from 1 to 3 miles. A great many fishing +weirs were observed in the channels of the river, from which it would +appear that the blacks live much, if not principally, on fish. They +were well and neatly constructed. (Camp IX.) + +'September' 12. -- Alexander Jardine, having now travelled 180 miles +from Carpentaria Downs, was convinced that the river he had traced +this distance could not be the Lynd of Leichhardt. The reasons which +forced this conclusion on him were three: -- Firstly, the discription +of the country in no wise tallied. Secondly, the course of the river +differed. And thirdly, although he had travelled further to the west +than Leichhardt's junction of the Lynd and Mitchell, he had not even +been on Mitchell waters, the northern watershed he had been on, on +the 10th, being that of a small creek, doubling on itself, and +running into this river. Having thus set the matter at rest in his +own mind, he determined to re-trace his steps, and accordingly +started back this morning and camped at night at the shallow lagoon, +passed the day previous. On the way they shot several ducks and a +bustard. These are very numerous on the plains, but wild and +unapproachable, as they most frequently are in the north. At each +camp on his journey Mr. Jardine regularly marked a tree A.J. and the +number of the Camp. + +'September' 13. -- The party travelled back over Bauhinia Plains, and +camped on the river, near camp 8 of the outward journey. At night +they went fishing, and got a number of fine perch, and a small +spotted fish. Distance 24 miles. + +'September' 14. -- To-day the party saw blacks for the first time +since leaving Carpentaria Downs. They "rounded them up," and had a +parley, without hostility on either side, each being on the +defensive, and observing the other. They bore no distinctive +character, or apparent difference to the Rockhampton tribes, and were +armed with reed speers and wommerahs. For the first time also they +met with the ripe fruit of the Palinaria, the "Nonda" of Leichhardt. +The distance travelled was 27 miles, which brought them to the 7th +camp on the outward journey. + +'September' 15. -- Following up the course of the river, the 6th camp +was reached in 26 miles, where the feed was so good that Mr. Jardine +determined to halt for a day and recruit the horses. On the way they +again passed some natives who were fishing in a large lagoon, but +shewed no hostility. They had an opportunity of seeing their mode of +spearing the fish, in which they used a long heavy four-pronged +spear, barbed with kangaroo bones. + +'September' 16. -- Was spent in fishing and hunting, whilst the +horses luxuriated in the abundant feed. They caught some perch, and +a fine cod, not unlike the Murray cod in shape, but darker and +without scales. At night, there being a fine moonlight, they went +out to try and shoot opossums as an addition to the larder, but were +unsuccessful. They appeared to be very scarce. + +'September' 17. -- Resuming their journey, the party travelled 21 +miles, to a spot about 4 miles below No. 5 camp, on Gaala Creek, and +turned out. Here they met with wild lucerne in great abundance, and +a great deal of mica and talc was observed in the river. During the +day Mr. Jardine shot a bustard, and some fish being again caught in +the evening, there was high feeding in camp at night. The bagging of +a bustard, or plain turkey as it is more commonly called, always +makes a red day for the kitchen. Its meat is tender and juicy, and +either roasted whole, dressed into steaks, or stewed into soup, makes +a grateful meal for a hungry traveller. + +'September' 18. -- Keeping out some distance from its banks to avoid +the stones and deep gullies, the party followed up the river to the +junction of Parallel Creek: this was traced, keeping along its bed +for the same reason, by which course only they were enabled to avoid +them. These, as before described, were very thickly strewn making +the journey tedious and severe on the horses, so that only 14 miles +were accomplished, when they camped on a large waterhole five miles +above the junction. The beautiful Burdekin duck ('Tadorna Radjah') +was met with, of which Mr. Jardine shot a couple. + +'September' 19. -- Still keeping along the bed of Parallel Creek, the +party travelled up its course. This they were constrained to do, in +consequence of the broken and stony banks and country on the east +side, whilst an abrupt wall of basalt prevented them leaving the bed +on the west. At 13 miles they camped for a couple of hours in the +middle of the day, on a large creek which received the name of +Warroul Creek, suggested by their finding two large "sugar bags" or +bees' nests on it, "Warroul" being the name for bee in the Wirotheree +or Wellington dialect. Warroul Creek runs into Parallel Creek from +the south-east, joining it about half-a-mile below where it leaves +the river, it being as before mentioned an ana-branch of the +Einasleih. Leaving Parallel and travelling up Warroul Creek, in 8 +miles they reached the gap in the range 12 miles below camp No. 2. +This afterwards received the name of Simon's Gap, and the range it +occurs in, Jorgensen's Range, after Simon Jorgensen, Esq., of +Gracemere. Two miles, from the gap they struck a large round swamp +which had not been observed on the down journey, the party having +kept close to the river, from which it is distant two miles. This +was named "Cawana Swamp" There being good grass there, they camped. +Native companions ('Crus Australalasinus') and the more rare jabiru +('Myeteria Australis') were very numerous on it. Total distance 23 +miles. + +'September' 20. -- To-day the party made the lagoon mentioned on the +4th inst., a distance of 27 miles, traversing nearly the same ground +already described and camped. They again saw a mob of blacks fishing +in the river, who, on seeing them, immediately decamped into the +ranges on the opposite side and disappeared. The next day, Mr. +Macdonald's station, Carpentaria Downs was reached in 17 miles, the +little party having travelled over nearly 360 miles of ground in 18 +days. Mr. Jardine found all well at the main camp, but no sign of +his brother with the cattle; fifteen days passed before his arrival, +during which time Alexander Jardine plotted up the courses of his +journey down the Einasleih, and submitted the plan to Mr. Richardson, +without, however, shaking the gentleman's faith as to his position, +or that they were on Leichhardt's Lynd, preferring to dispute the +accuracy of the reckoning. It will be seen, however, that the +explorer was right, and the surveyor wrong. It being expedient that +the party should husband their rations for the journey until the +final start, Mr. Macdonald kindly supplied them with what was +necessary for their present wants, thus allowing them to keep their own +stores intact. + +On the 6th of October, Frank Jardine made his appearance with the +cattle, a mob of about 250 head of bullocks and cows in good +condition. The ensuing three days were spent by the brothers in +shoeing the horses, a job of no little tedium and difficulty, they +being the only farriers of the party. There were 42 head to shoe, +many of which had never been shod before, and as the thermometer +stood at 100 degrees in the shade most of the day, their office was +no sinecure; they had at first some difficulty in getting a +sufficient heat, but after a little experimenting found a wood of +great value in that particular. This was the apple-gum, by using +which, they could if necessary get a white heat in the iron. At the +end of the third day the last horse was shod, and it only remained to +get the stores and gear together, and dispose them on the different +packs. This was done on the 10th, on the evening of which they were +ready for the final start. The party was thus composed: Frank +Lacelles Jardine, Leader; Alexander Jardine, Archibald J. Richardson, +Government Surveyor; C. Scrutton, R. N. Binney, A. Cowderoy, Eulah, +Peter, Sambo and Barney, black boys from the districts of Rockhampton +and Wide Bay; 41 picked horses and 1 mule, all in good order and +condition. + +Their provision was calculated to last them 4 months, and was +distributed together with the tools, amunition, and camp necessaries +on 18 packs, averaging at the start about 150 lbs. each. It +consisted of 1200 lbs. flour, 3 cwt. sugar, 35 lbs. of tea, 40 lbs. +currants and raisins, 20 lbs. peas, 20 lbs. jams, salt, etc. The +black troopers were armed with the ordinary double-barrelled police +carbine, the whites carrying Terry's breech-loaders, and Tranter's +revolvers. They had very ample occasion to test the value and +efficiency of both these arms, which, in the hands of cool men, are +invaluable in conflict. + +The personalities of the party were reduced to a minimum, and what +was supposed to be absolutely necessary, one pack (the mule's) being +devoted to odds and ends, or what are termed in bush parlance, +'manavlins'. Three light tents only were carried, more for +protecting the stores than for shelter for the party. + +All were in excellent health, and good spirits, and eager to make a start. + + + +CHAPTER II. + +Start from Carpentaria Downs -- Order of Travel -- Canal Creek -- +Cawana Swamp -- Simons' Gap -- Cowderoy's Bluff -- Barney's Nob -- +Casualties in Parallel Creek -- Basaltic Wall -- Singular Fish -- +Black Carbonado -- Improvement in Country -- Search for the Lynd -- +Doubts -- First rain -- Error of Starting point -- Large ant-hills -- +Ship's iron found -- Native nets -- Second start in search of Lynd -- +Return -- Byerley Creek -- The whole party moves forward -- Belle +Creek -- Maroon Creek -- Cockburn Creek -- Short Commons -- Camp +Burned -- The Powder saved -- Maramie Creek -- The Staaten -- First +hostility of Natives -- Poison -- "Marion" abandoned -- Conclusion as +to River -- Heavy rain -- First attack of Natives -- Horses lost -- +Barren Country -- Detention -- Leader attacked by Natives -- +Black-boy attacked -- A "growl" -- Mosquitoes and flies -- Kites -- +Cattle missing -- Horses found -- Leader again attacked -- Main party +attacked -- Return to the River -- Character of Staaten -- Lagoon +Creek -- Tea-tree levels -- Junction of Maramie Creek -- Reach head +of tide -- Confirmation of opinion. + +'October' 11. -- At sunrise the cattle was started with Cowderoy and +two black-boys, Eulah and Barney, the former acting as pilot. Their +instructions were to camp at the swamp at the junction of Pluto +Creek, seventeen miles from McDonald's station, mentioned on 3rd. +September. The pack-horses were not got away until half-past 12, +two, "Rasper," and the mule (as often provokingly happens when most +wanted) being astray, and having to be hunted for. There was also +the usual amount of "bucking" incident to a start, the unpractised +pack-horses rebelling against the unwonted load and amount of gear, +and with a few vigorous plunges sending pack-bags, pots, hobbles, and +chains in scattered confusion all round them. Few starts of a large +party occur without similar mischances, but a day or two, suffices +for the horses to settle to their work, after which all goes +smoothly. The country travelled has been described in the preceding +chapter. A hill at five miles on Pluto Creek, received the name of +Mount Eulah. On reaching the swamp, the brothers found the cattle +party had not arrived. This was the first of many similar annoyances +during the journey. It being between 8 and 9 p.m., it was useless to +think of looking for them at that time of night. They therefore +encamped on the river, intending to return and run the tracks of the +cattle in the morning. The distance travelled was about 20 miles. + +'October' 12. -- Leaving Binney in charge of the horses, with orders +to feed them about the Lagoon, where there was better grass than at +the river, the brothers started at sunrise in quest of the cattle +party. They met them at about five miles up Pluto Creek, which they +were running down. It appeared that Master Eulah, the pilot, had got +completely puzzled, and led the party into the ranges to the +eastward, where, after travelling all day, they had been obliged to +camp about half-way from the station, and without water. He was very +chop-fallen about his mistake, which involved his character as a +bushman. The Australian aborigines have not in all cases that +unerring instinct of locality which has been attributed to them, and +are, out of their own country, no better, and generally scarcely so +good as an experienced white. The brothers soon found water for them +in the creek under Mount Eulah; after which,returning to the camp, it +was too late to continue the journey, particularly as it had been +necessary to send one of "the boys" back for a bag of amunition that +had been lost on the way. This is the work they are most useful in, +as few, even of the best bushmen are equal to them in running a +track. The day's stage of the cattle was about 11 miles. + +'October' 13. -- The cattle started at a quarter-to-six, in charge of +Alexander Jardine and two black-boys, while Frank and the rest of the +party remained behind to pack and start the horses. This at the +commencement was the usual mode of travelling, the horses generally +overtaking the cattle before mid-day, when all travelled together +till they camped at night, or preceded them to find and form the +camp. Two incidents occurred on the way: "Postman," a pack-horse on +crossing a deep narrow creek, fell and turned heels uppermost, where +he lay kicking helplessly, unable to rise, until the pack was cut +clear of him; and "Cerberus," another horse, not liking the +companionship of the mule, took occasion in crossing another creek to +kick his long-eared mate from the top to the bottom of it, to the +intense amusement of the black-boys, who screamed "dere go poor +fellow donkit" with great delight. The whole course was about 11 +miles. The camp on a small dry creek. They procured water in the +main channel of the river, on the south side. During the journey at +every camp where there was timber, Mr. Jardine cut (or caused to be +cut) its number with a chisel into the wood of a tree, in Roman +numerals, and his initials generally in a shield. + +'October' 14. -- The distance travelled to-day was only 11 miles, but +described by Mr. Jardine, as equal to 20 of fair travelling ground. +The course lay over very stony quartz and granite ridges, which could +not be avoided, as they ran into the river, whilst the bed of the +stream would have been as difficult, being constantly crossed by +rocky bars, and filled by immense boulders. The grass was very +scarce, the blacks having burnt it all along the river. There were +patches where it never grows at all, presenting the appearance of an +earthern floor. They encamped at the junction of Canal Creek, under +the shade of some magnificent Leichhardt trees ('Nauclea +Leichhardtii') that grow there, without other water than what they +dug for in the sandy bed, and reached at a depth of two feet. On the +opposite side and about a mile from the junction there is a swamp, +splendidly grassed, which looked like a green barley field, but the +water was too salt for the horses to drink, an unusual thing in +granite country. The timber of the ridges was cheifly stunted hollow +iron-bark, that of the river, bloodwood, and the apple-gum, described +as so good for forging purposes; there was a total absence of those +tall well-grown gums, by which the course of a stream may usually be +traced from a distance. So little was the river defined by the +timber that it could not be distinguished at a half-a-mile away. + +'October' 15. -- The party moved to-day as far as the swamp mentioned +on the 19th September. It received the name of "Cawana Swamp," and +is described as the best and prettiest camping place they had yet +seen. It is surrounded by the high stoney range called Jorgensen's +Range on two sides, north and east, whilst on the south and east it +is hemmed in by a stretch of cellular basalt, which makes it almost +unapproachable. The only easy approach is by the river from the +westward. It is six miles round, and so shallow that the cattle fed +nearly a mile towards the middle. The party travelled out of the +direct course to avoid the stones, keeping the narrow flats occuring +between the river and ridges, which averaged about 200 yards in +width; when intercepted by the ridges running into the river, they +followed down its bed which is more clearly defined by oak +('Casuarinae') and Leichhardt trees than up the stream. The improved +travelling allowed them to make the stage of 9 miles in less than +four hours, and turn out early. Several large flocks of galaas +('Cacatua Rosea,') were seen, and Alexander Jardine shot a wallaby. +Before starting, Barney, one of the black-boys had to be corrected by +the Leader for misconduct, which had the effect of restoring +discipline. On reaching Cawana Swamp, the fires of the natives were +found quite fresh, from which it would seem that they had decamped on +the approach of the party, leaving plenty of birrum-burrongs, or +bee-eaters ('Merops Ornatus, Gould') behind them. An observation +taken at night gave the latitude 18 degrees 1 minute 59 seconds, +which gave about 41 miles of Northing. + +'October' 16. -- The cattle were started away at a quarter-to-four +o'clock, this morning, and found an excellent passage through +Jorgensen's Range, by "Simon's Gap." The track from this point to +the junction of Warroul and Parallel Creeks with the river (where the +camp was pitched) was very winding, from having to avoid the basalt, +which was laming some of the cattle, besides wrenching off the heads +of the horse-shoe nails: it could not be altogether avoided, and +made it past noon before the cattle reached the camp. A native +companion, a rock wallaby, and a young red kangaroo were the result +of the hunting in the afternoon, which saved the necessity of having +to kill a beast: this would have been specially inconvenient, if not +impossible here, for the natives had burnt all the grass, and there +was not a bite of feed for either horses or cattle, had they halted. +About 50 blacks, all men, followed the tracks of the party from +Cawana Swamp: they were painted, and fully armed, which indicated a +disposition for a "brush" with the white intruders; on being turned +upon, however, they thought better of it, and ran away. The camp was +formed under a red stony bluff, which received the name of +"Cowderoy's Bluff," after one of the party; whilst a large round hill +bearing E.N.E. from the camp was called "Barney's Nob." In the +afternoon Mr. Binney and Eulah were sent to the river to fish, but as +they ate all the caught, there was no gain to the party. For this +their lines were taken from them by Mr. Jardine, and they got a +"talking to," the necessity for which was little creditable to the +white man. The thermometer at 5 a.m. stood at 80 degrees. The day's +stage about 10 miles N.N.W. Some banksias, currijong, and +stringy-bark were noticed to-day, the latter is not a common timber +in the northern districts. + +'October' 17. -- All the horses were away this morning: as might +have been expected, the poor hungry creatures had strayed back +towards the good feed on Cawana Swamp, and were found 5 miles from +the camp. The day's stage was the worst they had yet had. The +country down Parallel Creek has already been described, and it took +six of the party five hours to get the cattle over three-and-a-half +miles of ground: the bed of the creek, by which alone they could +travel was intersected every 300 or 400 yards by bars formed of +granite boulders, some of which were from 25 to 30 feet high, and +their interstices more like a quarry than anything else; over these +the cattle had to be driven in two and sometimes three lots, and were +only travelled 8 miles with great difficulty. There were several +casualties; "Lucifer," one of the best of the horses cut his foot so +badly, as to make it uncertain whether he could be fetched on; and +two unfortunate cows fell off the rocks, and were smashed to pieces. +The cows were beginning to calve very fast, and when the calves were +unable to travel, they had to be destroyed, which made the mothers +stray from the camp to where they had missed them; one went back in +this manner the previous night, but it was out of the question to +ride thirty miles after her over the stones they had traversed. The +camp was made in the bed of Parallel Creek, at a spot where there was +a little grass, the whole stage having been almost without any. Here +the basaltic wall was over 80 feet in height, hemming them in from +the west; on some parts during the day it closed in on both sides. +An observation at night made the latitude 17 degrees 51 minutes. A +curious fishwas caught to-day -- it had the appearance of a cod, +whose head and tail had been drawn out, leaving the body round. +(Camp VIII.) + +'October', 18. -- Another severe stage, still down the bed of +Parallel Creek, from which indeed there was no issue. Frank Jardine +describes it as a "pass or gorge, through the range which abuts on +each side through perpendicular cliffs, filling it up with great +blocks of stone," and adding that "a few more days of similar country +would bring their horses to a standstill." Their backs and the feet +of the cattle were in a woeful plight from its effects: one horse +was lost, and a bull and several head of cattle completely knocked +up. Bad as yesterday's journey was, this day's beat it; they managed +to travel ten miles over the most villanous country imaginable, with +scarcely a vestage of grass, when the camp was again pitched in the +bed of the creek. A large number of natives were seen to-day -- one +mob was disturbed at a waterhole, where they were cooking fish, which +they left in their alarm, together with their arms. The spears were +the first that had been observed made of reed, and a stone tomahawk +was seen, as large as the largest-sized American axe. These blacks +were puny wretched-looking creatures, and very thin. They had a +great number of wild dogs with them -- over thirty being counted by +the party. 10 miles, N.W. by W. 1/2 W. (Camp IX.) + +'October' 19. -- The confluence of Parallel Creek with the Einasleih +was reached in four miles, after which the country on the river +slightly improved; the camp was pitched four miles further on, on a +river flat, within sight of a large scrub, on the east side. Four of +the cattle that had been knocked up yesterday were sent for before +starting, and fetched -- the cattle counted and found correct. The +river at the camp was about 700 yards wide, with fine waterholes in +it, containing plenty of fish. A strange discovery was made to-day. +At a native fire the fresh remains of a negro were found 'roasted', +the head and thigh bones were alone complete, all the rest of the +body and limbs had been broken up, the skull was full of blood. +Whether this was the body of an enemy cooked for food, or of a friend +disposed of after the manner of their last rites, must remain a +mystery, until the country and its denizens become better known. +Some spears were found pointed with sharp pieces of flint, fastened +on with kangaroo sinews, and the gum of the Xanthorea, or grass-tree. +(Camp X.) + +'October' 20. -- The last of the stony ground was travelled over +to-day, and the foot-sore cattle were able to luxuriate in the soft +sandy ground of the river flats. At about 6 miles Galaa Creek was +crossed at Alexander Jardine's marked tree (V in a square), and the +Rocky Island at its junction, before mentioned, were seen. At this +point the ranges come into the river on each side. The camp was +pitched at about five miles further on, at a fine waterhole, where +there was good grass -- a welcome change for cattle and horses. It +was not reached, however, till about 9 o'clock. The river afforded +the party some fine fish -- cod, perch, and peel, and a lobster +weighing more than half-a-pound. Its channels were very numerous, +making altogether nearly a mile in width. Scrub was in sight during +the whole of the stage, the crests of the broken ridges being covered +with garrawon. (Camp XI.) + +'October' 21. -- Mr. Jardine describes to-day's stage as the best the +cattle had experienced since taking delivery of them 230 miles back; +the river banks along which they travelled were flat and soft, +lightly timbered with box, poplar-gum and bloodwood. From a low +table-topped range, which they occasionally sighted on the right, +spurs of sandstone ran into the river at intervals, but were no +obstruction. A cow had to be abandoned knocked up. A couple of +blacks were surprised in the river spearing fish; they set up a howl, +and took to the river. In the evening the whole of the party went +fishing for the pot, there being no meat left. (Camp XII.) Distance +11 miles. The weather to-day was cloudy for the first time, shewing +appearance of rain. + +'October' 22. -- The river was travelled down for 10 miles, through +similar and better country than that of yesterday's stage, and the +camp established on a deep narrow well-watered creek, +three-quarters-of-a-mile from its junction with the river. Here the +Leader determined to halt for a few days to recruit the strength of +the horses and cattle, the feed being good; many of the cattle were +lame, two of the hacks were knocked up, and several of the +pack-horses had very sore backs, so that a "spell" was a necessity. +They were now 120 miles from Macdonald's station, having averaged ten +miles a-day since the start + +'October' 23. -- The camp was established at this point (Camp XIII.) +pending a reconnaissance by the Leader and his brother to find the +Lynd of Leichhardt, and determine the best line of road for the +stock. A couple of calves were killed, cut up, and jerked, whilst +some of the party employed themselves in the repairs to the saddlery, +bags, etc., and Alexander Jardine took a look at the country back +from the river. Mr. Richardson plotted up his course, when it was +found that it differed from that of the brothers by only one mile in +latitude, and two in longitude; he also furnished the Leader with his +position on the chart, telling him that the Lynd must be about ten +miles N.E. of them, their latitude being 17 degrees 34 minutes 32 +seconds S.* + +[footnote] *In Mr. Richardson's journal he mentions the distances as +18 to 20. He also explains that he had two maps, in which a +difference of 30 miles in longitude existed in the position of their +starting point. Not having a Chronometer to ascertain his longitude +for himself, he adopted that assigned by the tracing furnished from +the Surveyor-General's Office. + +'October' 24. -- The brothers started this morning, taking with them +Eulah, as the most reliable of the black-boys; they were provisioned +for five days. The cattle were left in charge of Mr. Scrutton: the +feed being good and water plentiful, the halt served the double +purpose of recruiting their strength, and allowing the Leader to +choose the best road for them. Steering N.E. by E. at a mile, they +passed through a gap in the low range of table-topped hills of red +and white sandstone which had been skirted on the way down: through +this gap a small creek runs into the river, which they ran up, +N.N.E., 3 miles further, on to a small shallow creek, with a little +water in it. Travelling over lightly-timbered sandy ridges, barren +and scrubby, but without stone, at 9 or 10 miles they crossed the +head of a sandy creek, rising in a spring, about 60 yards wide, +having about 5 or 6 inches of water in it. The creek runs through +mimosa and garrawon scrub for 5 miles, and the spring occurs on the +side of a scrubby ridge, running into the creek from the west. At 18 +miles they struck an ana-branch having some fine lagoons in it, and +half-a-mile further on a river 100 yards wide, waterless, and the +channels filled up with melaleuca and grevillea; this, though not +answering to Leichhardt's description, they supposed to be an +ana-branch of the Lynd; its course was north-west. They followed its +left bank down for three miles, then crossing it, they bore N.N.E. +for four miles, through level and sometimes flooded country, when +their course was arrested by a line of high ridges, dispelling the +idea that they were on the Lynd waters. Turning west they now +travelled back to the river, and crossing it, camped on one of the +same chain of lagoons which they first struck in the morning, and in +which they were able to catch some fish for supper. The distance +travelled was 28 miles. + +'October' 25. -- It was impossible to believe that the stream they +were now camped on was the Lynd. Leichhardt's description at the +point where they had supposed that they should strike it, made it +stony and timbered with iron-bark and box. Now, since leaving the +Einasleih they had not seen a single box or iron-bark tree, or a +stone. Frank Jardine therefore determined to push out to thenorth-east, +and again seek this seemingly apocryphal stream. After travelling +for eight miles through sandy ridges, scrubby and timbered with +blood-wood, messmate, and melaleuca (upright-leaved) they struck a +sandy creek, bearing north; this they followed for five miles, when +it turned due west, as if a tributary of the stream they had left in +the morning. Having seen no water since then, it was out of the +question to attempt bringing the cattle across at this point. It was +determined therefore that they should return and mark a line from the +Einasleih to the lagoons they had camped on last night, along which +cattle could travel slowly, whilst the brothers again went forward to +look for a better road from that point, and ascertain definitely +whether they were on the Lynd or not. Turning west they travelled 28 +miles to the creek they had left in the morning, striking it more +than 40 miles below their camp, when, to their surprise it was found +running nearly due south and still dry. Here they camped and caught +some fish and maramies (cray-fish) by puddling a hole in the creek, +which, with three pigeons they shot, made a good supper. At night a +heavy thunder-storm broke over them, which lasted from 9 till 12. +Frank Jardine here states himself to have been exceedingly puzzled +between Leichhardt and Mr. Richardson; one or the other of these he +felt must be wrong. Leichhardt describes the stream in that latitude +(page 283 Journal) as stony, and with conical hills of porphyry near +the river banks, "Bergues" running into it on each side. They had +not seen a rise even, in any direction for miles, whilst the creek +presented only occasional rocks of flat water-worn sandstone, and the +screw-palm 'Pandanus Spiralis' occurred in all the water-courses, a +tree that from its peculiarity would scarcely have been unnoticed or +undescribed. As it was quite unlikely that he should have +misrepresented the country, the natural presumption was, that Mr. +Richardson must have been in error as to their true position; this +was in reality the case, the error in his assumed longitude at +starting causing his reckoning to overlap the Lynd altogether. This +is easily seen and explained now, but was at that time a source of +great uncertainty and anxiety to the explorers. + +'October' 26. -- Crossing over to the west bank of the river, the +brothers followed it up the whole day along its windings, the general +course being from South-east to East for above 36 miles. They saw +none of the porphyry cliffs described by Leichhardt, or stone of any +kind. The country traversed, consisted of scrubby flats, and low +sandy ridges, timbered with bloodwood, messmate, mimosa, melaleuca, +grevillea, and two or three species of the sterculia or curriijong, +then in full blossom. Thick patches of a kind of tree, much +resembling brigalow in its appearance and grain, were seen on the +river banks; but the box, apple-gum, and iron-bark, mentioned by +Leichhardt as growing in this latitude were altogether wanting. +Large ant-hills, as much as 15 feet in height, which were frequent, +gave a remarkable appearance to the country. During their stage the +party came on to a black's camp, where they found some matters of +interest. The natives, who were puddling a waterhole for fish, had, +as was most frequent, decamped at their appearance, leaving them +leisure to examine some very neatly made reed spears, tipped +variously with jagged hardwood, flint, fish-bones, and iron; pieces +of ship's iron were also found, and a piece of saddle girth, which +caused some speculation as to how or where it had been obtained, and +proving that they must at some time have been on the tracks of white +men. Their nets excited some admiration, being differently worked to +any yet seen, and very handsome; a sort of chain without knots. The +camp was made on an ana-branch of the river, were the travellers +caught a couple of cod-fish. Their expertness as fishermen was a +great stand-by, for they had started without any ration of meat. +They experienced some heavy wind and a thunderstorm at night. + +'October' 27. -- Still travelling up the river, the party in about 9 +miles reached the lagoons where they were first struck, and turned +out for a couple of hours. There was good feed round them, in which +the horses solaced themselves, whilst their riders caught some fish +and shot some pigeons for dinner, after which they commenced blazing +the line for the cattle. They reached the main camp at 9 o'clock at +night, having in eight hours marked a line through the best of the +sandy tea-tree ridges, between 18 and 20 miles in length; no +despicable work for three tomahawks. Mr. Jardine communicated the +result of his trip to Mr. Richardson, but that gentleman could or +would not acquiesce in the opinion arrived at by the brothers, +despite the very conclusive arguments with which it was supported. +This opposition occasioned a feeling of want of confidence, which +caused them to cease consulting Mr. Richardson on their course, +leaving him merely to carry out the duty of his appointment. + +'October' 28. -- The following day was spent in camp, preparatory to +a fresh start ahead of the cattle, which, it was decided should leave +this camp on the 31st. Some of them could scarcely move, but their +number were found correct on counting. + +'October' 29. -- Again taking old Eulah with them, the brothers +started on another quest for the Lynd, which, like the mirage of the +desert, seemed to recede from them as they approached; setting out +late in the day, they camped at night once more on the lagoon, at the +end of their marked-tree line, a distance of about 18 miles. They +took with them four days' rations of flour, tea, and sugar, trusting +to their guns and fishing lines for their supply of meat. + +'October' 30. -- Starting at half-past 6 in the morning the little +party steered N. by W. about 36 miles. At about three-quarters +of-a-mile from the river they passed a fine lagoon, and at four miles +further on a rocky creek running west with some water in it. Their +way lay over soft, barren, sandy ridges, timbered with tea-tree. +Eight miles more brought them to a creek where water could be +obtained by digging, and at 24 miles further they camped on a large +well-watered creek, running N.W.; the whole of the distance was over +the same soft, barren, monotonous country. On their way they killed +an iguana ('Monitor Gouldii'), which made them a good supper, and +breakfast next morning. The cattle party at No. 13 Camp were left +with instructions to follow slowly along the marked-tree line, to +camp at the lagoon, and there await the return of the advance party. + +'October' 31. -- An early start was made this morning at a quarter +after 6, and 20 or 22 miles were accomplished on the same bearing as +that of yesterday, N. by W., over the same heavy barren stringy-bark +country. Three small creeks were crossed, but not a hill or rise was +to be seen, or any indication of a river to the northward. At this +point the heavy travelling beginning to tell on their jaded horses, +the Leader determined on abandoning the idea of bringing the cattle +by the line they had traversed, and turning south and by west made +for the river they had left in the morning, intending to ascertain if +it would be the better route for the cattle, and if not, to let them +travel down the supposed Lynd (which now received the name of +Byerley Creek), on which they were to rendezvous. After travelling +16 miles further on the new bearing, they camped without water, being +unable to reach the large creek they had camped on the previous +night. The country along the last course was of the same +description, low, sandy, string-bark, and tea-tree ridges, without a +vestige of water; total distance 38 miles. + +'November' 1. -- Making another early start, and steering S.W. by S., +the party reached the creek in four miles, and getting a copious +drink for themselves and their thirsty horses, breakfasted off some +"opossums and rubbish" they got out of a black's camp. The stream +was 100 yards wide, and well-watered, a great relief after their arid +journey of yesterday: large rocks of sandstone occurred inits bed in +different places. Crossing it, they followed down its left bank for +8 miles, its trend being N.W., then turning their back on it, they +steered due south to strike Byerley Creek. Sixteen miles of weary +travelling over wretched barren country brought them to a small sandy +creek, on which they camped, procuring water for their horses by +digging in its bed. Here they made a supper of the lightest, their +rations being exhausted, and "turned in" somewhat disgusted with the +gloomy prospect for the progress of the cattle. They again met with +the nonda of Leichhardt, and ate of its ripe fruit, which is best +when found dry under the trees. Its taste is described as like that +of a boiled mealy potatoe. + +'November' 2. -- Continuing on the same course, due south for 18 +miles, over the same useless country, the party reached Byerley +Creek, striking it at a point 32 miles below the Rendezvous Camp, +then turning up its course they followed it for 16 miles, to their +hunting camp of the 26th October. Here they camped and made what +they deemed a splendid supper off an oppossum, an iguana, and four +cod-fish, the result of their day's sport. Total distance travelled +28 miles. + +'November' 3. -- Following up the creek for 16 miles, the party +reached the main camp on the lagoons early in the day. Here they +found all right, with the exception that most of the party were +suffering from different stages of sandy-blight, or ophthalmia. A +calf was killed, and the hungry vanguard were solaced with a good +feed of veal. Byerley Creek having been found utterly destitute of +grass, badly watered, and moreover trending ultimately to the S. of +W., the Leader determined to take the cattle on to the next, which +was well watered, having some feed on it, and being on the right +course. There were, however, two long stages without water; but it +was, on the whole, the best and almost only course open to him. The +cattle had made this camp in two stages from the Einasleih. It was, +consequently, No. LI. The latitude was found to be 17 degrees 23 +minutes 24 seconds: a tree was marked with these numbers, in +addition to the usual initial and numbers. The Thermometer at +daylight marked 90 degrees, and at noon 103 degrees, in the 'shade!' + +'November' 4. -- A late start was made to-day, a number of the horses +having strayed, and not having been got in. The Brothers went ahead, +and marked a line for five miles out to the creek mentioned on the +30th October: it contained sufficient water for the horses and +cattle, and was the best watercourse they would get until they +reached the next river, a distance of 30 miles. It received the name +of "Belle Creek," in remembrance of "Belle," one of their best +horses, who died at this camp, apparantly from a snake bite, the +symptoms being the same as in the case of "Dora," but the time +shorter. Belle Creek is rocky and tolerably well watered, and +remarkable for the number of nonda trees on it. Whilst waiting for +the cattle the Brothers caught some fish and a fine lot of maramies. + +'November' 5. -- This day appears to have been one of disasters. It +opened with the intelligence that sixteen of the horses were missing. +Leaving one party to seek and bring on the stray horses, the Brothers +started the cattle forward: they left instructions at the camp for +the horses to start, if recovered before 3 o'clock; if not, to be +watched all night, and brought on the next day. They then started, +and preceding the cattle, marked a line for 15 miles to "Maroon +Creek." Here they camped without water, waiting with some anxiety +for the arrival of the pack-horses. Hour after hour passed but none +appeared, and as night closed in, the Brothers were forced to the +conclusion that something must have gone wrong at the camp. They +could not however turn back, as they had to mark the next day's stage +for the cattle to water, there being none for them to-night, and only +a little for the party, obtained by digging, however, they were +relieved by the appearance of a blackboy with rations, who reported +that some of the horses had not been found when he left the camp. +The night was spent in watching the thirsty cattle. + +'November' 6. -- The cattle were started at dawn and driven on to the +watered creek, where they got feed and water at some fine waterholes, +it received the name of "Cockburn Creek;" the Brothers as usual +preceded them and marked a line further ahead. Arrived there, they +spent the rest of the day in fishing whilst uneasily waiting the +arrival of the pack-horses. They luckily caught some fish for +supper, for night fell without the appearance of the remainder of the +party, and they had nothing to eat since the preceding night. The +country has already been described. + +'November' 7. -- To-day was spent in camp by the party whilst +anxiously awaiting the arrival of the pack-horses, but night fell +without their making their appearance. They had nothing to eat, and +as there was no game to be got, they decided on killing a calf, but +in this they were disappointed, as the little animal eluded them, and +bolted into the scrub. They therefore had to go "opossuming," and +succeeding in catching three, which, with a few small fish, formed +their supper. + +'November' 8. -- At daylight this morning, Alexander Jardine +succeeded in "potting" the calf that had eluded them yesterday, which +gave the party a satisfactory meal. Another anxious day was passed +without the arrival of the pack-horses, and the Leader had the +annoyance of finding on counting the cattle, that between twenty or +thirty were missing. Being now seriously anxious about the +pack-horses, he determined if they did not arrive that night, to +despatch his brother to look after them. + +'November' 9. -- The horses not having arrived, Alexander Jardine +started to see what had happened: he met the party with them half +way, and learned some heavy news. In the afternoon of the 5th (the +day on which the Brothers started with the cattle), the grass around +the camp had, by some culpable carelessness, been allowed to catch +fire, by which half their food and nearly all their equipment were +burnt. The negligence was the more inexcusable, as before starting, +Alexander Jardine had pulled up the long grass around the tents at +the camp, which should have put them on their guard against such a +contingency, one for which even less experienced bushmen are supposed +to be watchful during the dry season. The consequences were most +disastrous: resulting in the destruction of 6 bags of flour, or 70 +lbs. each, or 420 lbs., all the tea save 10 lbs., the mule's pack, +carrying about 100 lbs. of rice and jam, apples, and currants, 5 lbs. +gun-powder, 12 lbs. of shot, the amunition box, containing cartridges +and caps, two tents, one packsaddle, twenty-two pack-bags, 14 +surcingles, 12 leather girths, 6 breechings, about 30 ring +pack-straps, 2 bridles, 2 pairs blankets, 2 pairs of boots, nearly +all the black boys' clothes, many of the brothers', and 2 bags +containing nicknacks, awls, needles, twine, etc., for repairs. It +was providential the whole was not burnt, and but for the exertions +of Mr. Scrutton, all the powder would have gone. He is described as +having snatched some of the canisters from the fire with the solder +melting on the outside. They had succeeded in rescuing the little +that was saved by carrying it to a large ant-hill to, windward. +Their exertions were no doubt great and praise-worthy, but a little +common prudence would have saved their necessity, and a heavy and +irreparable loss to the whole party, one which might have jeopardized +the safety of the expedition. Besides this, they had a less +important but still serious loss; "Maroon," a valuable grey sire +horse, that Mr. Jardine hoped to take to the new settlement, died +from the effects of poison, or of a snake bite, but more probably the +former. The pack-horses joined the cattle in the evening. Stock was +taken of the articles destroyed, and the best disposition made of +what remained. The latitude of this camp (XVIII.) was 16 degrees 55 +minutes 6 seconds. + +'November' 10. -- Leaving instructions with the cattle party to +follow down Cockburn Creek, and halt at the spots marked for them, +the Brothers, accompanied by Eulah, started ahead, to mark the camps +and examine the country. By this means no time was lost. The first +three camps were marked at about seven-mile intervals; and at about +25 miles, opposite two small lagoons on the west bank, the Leader +marked trees STOP (in heart), on either side the creek, leaving +directions for the party to halt till he returned, and a mile further +down camped for the night. The banks of the creek were scrubby and +poorly grassed, the country sandy, and thickly timbered with +tea-tree, stringy-bark, and bloodwood, and a few patches of +silver-leaved iron-bark, the nondas being very plentiful along its +course. Large flocks of cockatoo parrots ('Nymphicus Nov. Holl.') +and galaas were seen during the day. + +'November' 11. -- Still continuing down the creek the party made a +short stage of 13 miles, one of their horses having become too sick +to travel. The early halt gave them an opportunity to go hunting, +the more necessary as they were again out of meat. The result was an +iguana, a bandicoot, three opossums, and some "sugar bags" or wild +honey nests. + +'November' 12. -- Crossing Cockburn Creek the Brothers bore away +N.N.W. for 9 or 10 miles, over sandy bloodwood ridges, intersected +with broad tea-tree gullies, to two sandy water courses half-a-mile +apart, the first 100 and the second 50 yards in width, running west. +These they supposed to be heads of the Mitchell. Crossing them and +continuing N. by W., they traversed over barren tea-tree levels +(showing flood marks from three to four feet high), without a blade +of grass, for about 16 miles, when they reached the extreme head of a +small rocky creek, where they camped at a waterhole, and caught a +great number of maramies, which suggested the name of "Maramie +Creek." It was quite evident that the cattle could not follow by +this route, as there was nothing for them to eat for nearly the whole +distance. The stage travelled was 26 1/2 miles. + +'November' 13. -- Maramie Creek was followed down for 25 miles: its +general course is west. At three miles from the start a small creek +runs in from the north-east. The Brothers had hoped that the +character of the country would improve as they went down, but were +disappointed. Nothing but the same waste of tea-tree and spinifex +could be seen on either side, the bank of the main creek alone +producing bloodwood, stringy-bark, acacia, and nonda. Though shallow +it was well watered, and increased rapidly in size as they proceeded. +The natives had poisoned all the fish in the different waterholes +with the bark of a small green acacia that grew along the banks, but +the party succeeded in getting a few muscles and maramies. + +'November' 14. -- Being satisfied that the cattle could not be +brought on by the course they had traversed, Frank Jardine determined +to leave Maramie Creek, and make for the large stream crossed on the +12th, so as to strike it below the junction of Cockburn Creek. +Turning due south the party passed a swamp at eight miles, and at +seventeen miles a lagoon, on which were blue lilies ('Nymphoea +gigantea.') A mile farther on they reached what they supposed to be +the Mitchell, which was afterwards ascertained to be the Staaten, of +the Dutch navigators, or one of its heads. At the point where they +struck it (about 18 miles below the junction of Cockburn Creek, it is +nearly a quarter-of-a-mile in width, sandy, with long waterholes. A +dense black tea-tree scrub occupies its south bank. It was here that +the party experienced the first decided show of hostility from the +natives. They had seen and passed a number at the lily lagoon +unmolested, but when arrived at the river whilst the leader was +dismounted in its bed, fixing the girths of his saddle, he was +surprised to find himself within 30 yards of a party carrying large +bundles of reed spears, who had come upon him unperceived. They +talked and gesticulated a great deal but made no overt hostility, +contenting themselves with following the party for about three miles +throughscrub, as they proceeded along the river. Getting tired of +this noisy pursuit, which might at any moment end in a shower of +spears, the Brothers turned on reaching a patch of open ground, +determined that some of their pursuers should not pass it. This +movement caused them to pause and seeming to think better of their +original intention they ceased to annoy or follow the little party, +which pursued its way for five miles further, when they camped in the +bed of the stream. Its character for the 8 miles they had followed +it up was scrubby and sandy: its course nearly west -- long gullies +joined it from each side walled with sandstone. They caught two +turtles for supper. Total distance travelled 26 miles. + +'November 15. -- Making an early start, the party followed up the +Staaten for eight miles, the general course being about N.E. Here it +was jointed by Cockburn creek, which they ran up until they reached +the cattle party encamped at the lagoons, where the Leader had marked +trees STOP. They had reached this place on the 13th inst., without +further accident or disaster, and seeing the trees, camped as +instructed. It was nearly 30 miles from the junction of the Staaten, +the country scrubby, thickly timbered, and very broken. Total +distance 38 miles. + +'November' 16. -- The whole party was moved down Cockburn Creek, that +being the only practicable route. It was the alternative of poor +grass or no grass. The trend of the creek was about N.W. by W. At +twelve miles they encamped on its bed. A red steer and a cow were +left behind poisoned; and another horse, "Marion" was suffering +severely from the same cause. They were unable to detect the plant +which was doing so much mischief, which must be somewhat plentiful in +this part of the country. Leichhardt mentions (page 293) the loss of +Murphy's pony on the Lynd, which was found on the sands, "with its +body blown up, and bleeding from the nostrils." Similar symptoms +showed themselves in the case of the horses of this expedition, +proving pretty clearly that the deaths were caused by some noxious +plant. (Camp XXIII.) + +'November' 17. -- The course was continued down Cockburn Creek. At +six miles a large stream runs in from the S.E. which was supposed to +be Byerley Creek. This however is only an assumption, and not very +probable, as it will be remembered that when the brothers struck it +on the 1st November, 40 miles below camp 15, they were surprised to +find it trending toward the south. It is not improbable that it may +run into the sea between the Staaten and Gilbert. This problem can +only be solved when the country gets more occupied, or some explorer +traces the Staaten in its whole length. Below this junction Cockburn +Creek is from 200 to 300 yards wide, running in many channels, but +under the surface. The country is flat and poorly grassed, a low +sandy ridge occasionally running into the creek. The timber is +bloodwood, string-bark, tea-tree, nonda, and acacia. The party +camped 5 miles further down; poor "Marion" being now past all hope of +recovery had to be abandoned. Three cows that calved at camp 22 were +sent for and brought up. They were kept safely all night, but during +the morning watch, were allowed to escape by Barney. At this camp +(XXIV.) Scrutton was bitten in two or three places by a scorpion, +without however any very severe effects. + +'November' 18. -- Cockburn Creek, now an important stream was +followed down for four miles, when it formed a junction with the +Staaten. The width of the main stream is about 400 yards, in many +channels sandy and dry. It now runs generally west and very winding. +The country and timber were much as before described, with the +exception that a mile back from the river, (a chain of lagoons) +generally occurs, some of them being large and deep and covered with +lilies. Beyond, a waste of sandy tea-tree levels, thickly covered +with triodia or spinifex, and other desert grasses. The green tree +ant was very numerous, particularly in the nonda trees, where they +form their nests. The birds were also very numerous, large flocks of +black cockatoos, cockatoo parrots, galaas, budgerygars or grass +parrots ('Melopsittacus Undulatus, Gould'), and some grey quail were +frequently seen, and on one of the lagoons a solitary snipe was +found. Another cow was abandoned to-day. The total day's stage was +8 miles. The party camped in the sandy bed of the river. A little +rain was experienced at night. (Camp XXV.) Latitude 16 degrees 32 +minutes 14 seconds. + +'November' 19. -- The party followed down parallel with the Staaten, +so as to avoid the scrub and broken sandstone gullies on the banks. +They travelled for 11 miles, and camped on one of the lagoons above +mentioned. Their course was somewhat to the south of west, so that +they were no nearer to their destination -- an annoying reflection. +In the afternoon some of the party went over to the river to fish. +At this spot it had narrowed to a width of 100 yards, was clear of +fallen trees and snags, the water occupying the whole width, but only +5 feet deep. Up to this time, Frank Jardine had supposed the stream +they were on to be the Mitchell, but finding its course so little +agreeing with Leichhardt's description of it, below the junction of +the Lynd, which is there said to run N.W., he was inclined to the +conclusion that they had not yet reached that river. Mr. Richardson, +on the contrary, remained firm in his opinion that Byerley Creek was +the river Lynd, and consequently, that this stream was the Mitchell, +nor was it till they reached the head of the tide that he was fully +convinced of his error. (See his journal November 18, and December +2.) + +'November' 20. -- To-day the Leader went forward and chose a good +camp, 12 miles on, at some fine lagoons. The cattle followed, +keeping, as usual, back from the river, the interval to which was all +scrubby flooded ground, thickly covered with brush and underwood. +They were however unable to reach the camp that night, for when +within three miles of it a heavy deluge of rain compelled them to +halt, and pitch the tents to protect the rations, all the oilskin +coverings that had been provided for the packs having been destroyed +in the bonfire, on Guy-Faux Day, at camp No. 16. They could hardly +have been caught in a worse place, being on the side of a scrubby +ridge, close to one of the ana-branches of the river. It would seem +that the natives calculated on taking them at a disadvantage, for +they chose this spot for an attack, being the first instance in which +they attempted open hostility. Whilst the Brothers were busily +engaged in cutting out a "sugar bag," a little before sundown, they +heard an alarm in the camp, and a cry of "here come the niggers." +Leaving their 'sweet' occupation, they re-joined the party, in front +of which about 20 blacks were corroboreeing, probably to screw up +their courage. They had craft enough to keep the sun, which was now +low, at their backs, and taking advantage of this position sent in a +shower of spears, without any of the party -- not even the black-boys +-- being aware of it, until they saw them sticking in the ground +about them. No one was hit, but several had very narrow shaves. The +compliment was returned, and as Alexander Jardine describes "'exeunt' +warriors," who did not again molest them, although they were heard +all around the camp throughout the night. (Camp XXVII.) Course W. +Distance 9 miles. A heavy thunderstorm in the evening. + +'November' 21. - The cattle were started as usual, but as ill-luck +would have it, 13 of the horses were not to be found. After waiting +for them till four o'clock, all the packs and riding-saddles were +packed on the remaining horses, and the party drove them on foot +before them to the camp, at the lagoons, three miles on. It was dark +before they got there, and well into the second watch before the +tents were pitched, and everything put straight. The country +continued the same as before described, a barren waste of tea-tree +levels to the north, obliging them to keep along the river, although +at right angles to their proper course. (Camp XXVIII.) Distance 3 +miles W. + +'November 22. - The troubles and adventures of the party seemed to +thicken at this point, where the cattle were detained, whilst the +missing horses were being sought for. Old Eulah had come in late the +preceding night empty-handed, he had seen their tracks, but night +coming on he was unable to follow them. He was started away this +morning in company with Peter to pick up and run the trail. At two +o'clock he returned with two, and reported that Peter was on the +trail of the others. They had evidently been disturbed by their +friends the natives, for their tracks were split up, and those +brought on had their hobbles broken. At dusk Peter brought home +three more, without being able to say where the others had got to. +During this time, Frank Jardine had a little adventure to himself; +wishing to find a better run for the cattle, he started about noon, +and rode down the river for about six miles. There was no choice, +the country was all of the same description, so he turned back in +disgust, when, in crossing the head of a sandstone gully, he heard a +yell, and looked round just in time to see a half a dozen spears come +at him, and about a dozen natives around and painted, jumping about +in great excitement. Going forward a little, he got time to clear +the lock of his rifle, from the oil rag which usually protected it. +He turned on his assailants, and sent a bullet amongst them; it hit a +tree instead of a blackfellow, but as they still menaced him, his +next shot was more successful, when seeing one of their number fall, +the rest decamped. It was now their turn to run, but before they +could cross the bed of the river, which was dry, clear, and about 300 +yards wide, he was able to get two good shots at short range. They +did not trouble him again that afternoon. They dropped all their +spears in the "stampede," some of which, reed and jagged, were taken +home as trophies. They used no "wommerahs." Peter came in to camp +at dark, with 3 horses, having no idea where the others had got to; +there were 8 still away. + +'November' 23. - Sambo, the best tracker among the black-boys, was +despatched at sunrise, with Peter, to look for the missing horses. +He returned at sundown with the mule, which he had found on the +opposite side of the river, but he had seen no traces of the rest. +Peter came in after dark, without any, he had seen the tracks of the +natives on the horse tracks, and related in his own jargon, that +"blackfella bin run'em horses all about" and "that bin brok'em +hobble." He had also seen two or three of the blacks themselves, at +the lagoon where the brothers met them on the 14th, and had some +parley with them -- he described them a "cawbawn saucy" "that tell'im +come on, me trong fella, you little fella," and after chaffing him in +their own way, sent as many spears at him as he would stand for. The +detention caused by the loss of the horses, was a serious matter, +whilst the hostility of the natives was very annoying, keeping the +party constantly on the alert. The interval was occupied in patching +up the ration tent, with portions of the other two, so that they had +now one water-proof to protect their stores. Some good snipe and +duck shooting might have been got round these lagoons, but as nearly +all their caps had been destroyed by the fire, it was not to be +thought of. The scarcity of these and of horse-flesh alone prevented +the Brothers from turning out and giving their troublesome enemies a +good drilling, which, indeed, they richly deserved, for they had in +every case been the agressors, and hung about the party, +treacherously waiting for an opportunity to take them by surprise. +The detention also was due to them, which was a matter of some +anxiety to the Leader, when it is considered that the party was in a +level flooded country, without a rise that they knew of within fifty +miles, and that the rains of the last ten days portended the breaking +up the dry season. + +'November' 24. - This morning Frank Jardine went out with Eulah, and +succeded in finding 5 more of the horses, scattered all over the +country, their hobbles broken, and as wild as hawks. He sent Eulah +along the tracks of the last two, who were evidently not far ahead, +and brought the others in himself. These two "Cerebus" and "Creamy," +were the best and fattest of the pack-horses. Their loss would have +made a serious addition to the loads of the remainder, who had +already to share 400lbs. Extra in consequence of the poisoning of the +three already lost. Whilst waiting for and expecting their arrival +every hour, the different members of the party amused themselves as +best they might by fishing, opossum, sugar-bag hunting, and nonda +gathering. The monotony of the camp was also broken by a little +grumbling, consequent on an order from the Leader against the opening +of the next week's ration bag. The party had, during the halt +consumed a week's rations a day and a-half too soon, hence the order, +which was a wise precaution. The rations were calculated with care +to last through the journey, but, unless a restriction had been +placed on the consumption, this could not be hoped for. But it is +difficult to reason with hungry men. + +'November' 25. - Another day passed without finding the two missing +horses. Sambo and Eulah were sent out in quest of them, but returned +unsuccessful, giving it, as their opinion that "blackfella bin 'perim +'longa 'crub." Peter and Barney were then despatched with orders to +camp out that night and look for them all next day. A steer having +been killed last night, the day was passed in jerking him. The day +was very unpropitious as there had been a shower of rain in the +morning, and there was no sun, so it had to be smoked with manure in +one of the tents. What with the mosquitoes and sand-flies, men, +horses, and cattle were kept in a continual fever. The horses would +not leave the smoke of the fires, the cattle would not remain on the +camp, and the men could get no rest at night for the mosquitoes, +whilst during the day the flies were in myriads, and a small species +of gad-fly, particularly savage and troublesome. Another source of +annoyance was from the flocks of crows and kites, the latter ('Milvus +Affinis') are described by Leichhardt as being extraordinarily +audacious, during his journey through this part of the country, and +they certainly manifested their reputation now. Not content with the +offal about the camp, they would actually, unless sharply watched, +take the meat that was cooking on the fire. The black-boys killed a +great many with "paddimelon" sticks, and reed spears, (the spoils of +war) but with little effect. "When one was killed, twenty came to +the funeral." Old Eulah was a great proficient in this exercise, and +when in action with his countrymen, was always anxious to throw their +own spears back at them. + +'November' 26. - One of the party went to sleep during his watch last +night, by which fifteen head of cattle were allowed to stray away +from the camp. It was not the first time that this very grave fault +had occurred, the mischief caused by which, can sometimes, hardly be +estimated. In this case, however, it verified the proverb, it is an +ill wind, etc., for whilst looking for the stragglers Frank Jardine +luckily "happened" on the missing horses "Cerebus" and "Creamy" about +7 miles down the river. They had evidently been frightened by the +blacks. Seven of the cattle only were found, leaving eight missing +which was very provoking as it was necessary to shift the camp (on +which they had now been detained six days) for all the stock where +looking miserable. Neither horses nor cattle would eat the grass, +which had ceased to have a trace of green in it, but rambled about +looking for burnt stubble. The day was close and sultry with loud +thunder and bright lightning, which very much frighened the horses. +The natives were heard cooeying all round the camp during the night, +but made no attack, remembering probably the result of the Sunday and +Tuesday previous. + +'November' 27 - Everything was ready to pack on the horses before +daylight this morning, but most provokingly "Cerebus" was again +missing. Leaving orders for the partyto start if he was not +recovered before noon, the Leader pushed on to mark a camp for them. +At about three miles he came on to a chain of fine lagoons, running +parallel to and about four miles from the river. The intervening +country was one tea-tree level all flooded, but a narrow strip of +soft sandy flat occurred on the banks of each, timbered with +blood-wood, stringy-bark, and box. Following these down he marked a +camp at about nine miles, then crossed over to the river to look for +the cattle. He had not followed it far when he saw a mob of blacks. +They did not molest him, so he passed them quietly, as he thought, +but about two miles further on, in some scrubby sandstone gullies, as +he was riding along looking for tracks, a spear whistled past, within +six inches of his face. Pulling up, he saw seven natives, all +standing quietly looking on at the effect of the missile: the fellow +who threw it never threw another. Pursuing his way, pondering on the +fatality that had brought about collisions on two Sundays running, he +met the cattle, and found the party in some excitement; they too had +had a shindy. The natives had attacked them in force, but no one was +hurt, whilst some of their assailants were left on the ground, and +others carried away wounded. It was found that they would not stand +after the first charge -- and a few were hit. (Camp XXIX.) Distance +9 miles. Course W. by N. + +'November' 28. - All hopes of finding the eight missing head of +cattle, lost from camp 28, had to be abandoned, for the reason that +the horse-flesh could not hold out in looking for them. The cattle +were moved down along the lagoons, which in about two miles narrowed +into a defined creek, sandy, with occasional lagoons. This was +explored ten miles by the Leader, and the question as to whether he +should choose that route, or follow the river was decided for him. +The banks were either utterly barren or clothed with spinifex, and +the country on either side the same worthless tea-tree levels. He +was therefore determined to take the cattle back on to the river, +which was not much better, and led them away from their course. The +prospects of the Brothers were rather dispiriting. To attempt +striking north was out of the question, whilst every mile down the +river took them further away from their destination, and their horses +were falling away daily, so much so, that if the feed did not soon +improve, there would not be one capable of carrying an empty saddle. +The rainy season too was at hand, and the level and flooded nature of +the country they were in, would, were they caught there by the +floods, endanger the safety of the party. It was therefore with no +little anxiety that they watched the weather, and searched for a +practicable line which would allow of their steering north. (Camp +XXX.) Latitude 16 degrees 26 minutes 53 seconds. Distance 10 miles, +W. by N. + +'November' 29. - Keeping a south-west course, so as to strike it +lower down, the cattle were again taken on to the river, which they +reached in about nine miles; then travelling about another mile down +its banks, encamped. These were now decidedly more open, and the +country generally improved. The same strip of soft sandy flat about +half-a-mile wide continued, but better grassed, although the spear +grass was far too common. Bloodwood, stringy-bark, applegum and +acacia timbered the north bank; whilst on the south, tea-tree flats, +covered with spinifex, ran close down to the bed, the bank itself +being of red clay. Two channels, together making a width of about +300 yards, formed the bed, which was sandy, and held very little +water on the surface. No large trees occurred, save now and then a +vagrant nonda. Another cow was lost to-day, and "Lottie," a favorite +terrier, was missing. The latitude of Camp 31 was supposed to be 16 +degrees 31 minutes 53 seconds, but doubtful. + +'November' 30. - The river was followed down to-day for 11 miles. It +was very winding and irregular in its width. At the camp it was only +60 yards wide and running in one channel, whilst a mile above, it +measured nearly 400. Its general course was nearly west. The creek +which is formed by the lagoons, on which the party were so long +detained was crossed at about nine-and-a-half miles. The country at +its junction is flooded for a long distance back, and the river bed +sandy and thickly timbered. Although the country generally had +decidedly improved, inasmuch as that it was more open, devoid of +scrub, and the box flats on the river extending further back on each +side, it was by no means good. The flats were very scantily grassed, +chiefly with sour water grasses and spinifex, and shewed by the flood +marks that they must be quite impassable during floods or wet +weather. The dreary tea-tree levels might be seen in glimpses +through the white box of the flats extending far beyond. Several +small swamps were passed during the day, on which ducks and other +water-fowl were very numerous, the stately native companion stalking +near the margins. The large funnel ant-hills occurred from 2 to 15 +feet high. The Fitzroy wallaby was plentiful, and the Leader shot an +emeu. Some large flights of white ibis, and slate-colored pigeons +passed high overhead, flying north, which might be a good indication. +Peter was sent back to seek for Lottie, but returned in the evening +unsuccessful. + +'December' 1. - Maramie Creek was crossed this morning at its +junction with the river, into which it flows in two channels, about +60 or 70 miles from the point where the brothers first struck it on +the 12th of November, while searching for a road to the northward. +Its total width is about 120 yards. The general course of the river +was slightly to the north of west, but very winding, some of its +reaches extended for nearly four miles. Numerous ana-branches +occurred, the flats separating them, being three miles in breadth, +timbered with flooded box and tea-tree, their banks well grassed. It +would be a dangerous country to be caught in by the floods. Two +parties of blacks were passed fishing on the river, but they took no +notice of the party, and were of course not interfered with. They +used reed spears pointed with four jagged prongs, and also hooks and +lines. Their hooks are made with wood barbed with bone, and the +lines of twisted currejong bark. Distance travelled to-day 10 miles. +The Camp XXXIII. in latitude 16 degrees 27 minutes 30 seconds. + +'December' 2. - The river was travelled down through similar country +for eleven miles, when the party reached the head of the tide, and +camped on a rocky water hole in an ana-branch, the river water not +being drinkable. The course was to the southward of west. It was +now beyond a doubt, even to Mr. Richardson, that this river was not +the Mitchell, for neither its latitude, direction, or description +corresponded with Leichhardt's account. It was also perceived that +the longitude of the starting point must have been incorrect, and +very considerably to the westward, as their reckoning, carefully +checked, brought them much too near the coast. The Brothers +therefore became satisfied of what they had long believed, that they +had never been on the Lynd at all, or even on its watershed, and that +what they were on was an independent stream. They therefore named it +the "Ferguson,' in honor of Sir George Ferguson Bowen, Governor of +Queensland, but there is little doubt that it is the Staaten of the +Dutch navigators, or at least its southern branch. Should a northern +branch eventually be discovered, which the delta and numerous +ana-branches make a probable hypothesis, the stream explored by the +brothers might with propriety retain the name they gave it. At eight +miles from the start the character of the country changed from the +prevailing flats, to a kind of barren sandstone and spenifex ridges. +On pitching the camp the fishing-lines were put into requisition, but +without success. It is remarkable, that on reaching the salt water, +not far from this spot, Leichhardt was similarly disappointed, after +having counted on catching and curing a good quantity of fish, the +whole day's work of Brown and Murphy being "a small siluus, one +mullet, and some guard-fish," 'qu.' gar-fish. + +'December' 3. - To-day's stage was a short one, and was hoped to have +been the last on this miserable river, which was now looked upon as +undoubtedly the Staaten. It had in some measure improved. The +timber was much larger and finer, and the lagoons extensive and deep. +But a heavy storm which came down, and compelled them to camp early, +soon proved what the country would be in the wet season. With this +one heavy fall of rain it became so boggy that the horses sank in up +to their girths. Hitherto the grass had been so scanty that the +party could not halt for a day to kill. They had consequently been +four days without meat. It was determined, therefore, to stop and +kill a beast, preparatory to a start north, the feed having slightly +improved in common with the timber. In addition to the steer that +was slaughtered, a shovel-nosed shark was caught and jerked in like +manner with the beef. In the afternoon Alexander Jardine explored +down the river for seven miles, seeking for a good spot for turning +off. The country still improved: the river was completely salt, and +in one continuous sheet of running water, in two channels 300 or 400 +yards in width, and together about half-a-mile at the spot where he +turned back. Here it was flat and shallow, and fordable at low +water. Mangroves and salt-water creeks commenced as described by +Leichhardt,* and alligator tracks were seen. (Camp XXXV.) Latitude +16 degrees 26 minutes 39 seconds. + +[footnote] *See Journal, page 320. It was at this point that he +threw away his horse-shoes and other heavy articles. + +'December' 4. - The beef, shark, and a few cat-fish were jerked, and +all the stores and loading spread out and re-distributed on the +packs, and as this put the camp into some confusion, the Leader +thought it well to shift it for a few miles, to let the packs shake +into place before the final start. They therefore moved down three +miles to the commencement of the mangroves, into a patch of the best +feed they had seen since they left the Einasleih. At this point the +banks were very soft and sandy, growing spinifex; the stream in +numerous channels, altogether half-a-mile across, and the tide rose +and fell about twenty-two inches. Here they camped, intending to +make an early start on the following morning. Time was now an object +of the utmost importance to the progress, if not to the safety of the +party: Frank Jardine was aware that the Mitchell, which he had hoped +long ere this to have left behind him, was still ahead, at least 40 +miles away, without certainty of water until it was reached, whilst +if caught by the floods he would probably be stopped by this +important stream. It was with some anxiety therefore that he +hastened preparations for the start. How his hopes were deferred and +how fortune seemed to laugh at his endeavours to push forward on his +course will now be narrated, and it will be seen how good bushmen +with high hearts can overcome obstacles, and meet difficulties that +would appal and baffle ordinary travellers. + + + +CHAPTER III. + +Leave the Staaten -- Half the horses away -- Fresh troubles -- Mule +Lost -- Sambo knocked up -- Search for mule -- Perplexity -- +"Lucifer" goes mad -- Final attempt to recover him -- Marine Plains +-- Search for Deceiver -- Found dead -- Salt Lagoon -- Arbor Creek -- +Country improves -- Good Camp -- Eulah Creek -- The Brothers attacked +-- Reach the Mitchell -- Cow poisoned -- Battle of the Mitchell -- An +ambush -- Extent of flooded Country -- Reach head of tide -- Heavy +rain -- A "Blank run" -- Leave the Mitchell -- Good Coast Country -- +Balourgah Creek -- Blue grass -- Banksia -- The Eugenia -- Green Ant +-- Hearsey Creek -- Holroyd -- Creek Dunsmuir Creek -- Thalia Creek +-- Black boy chased by natives -- Another encounter -- Cattle +scattered by thunder-storm -- Rainy Season -- Macleod Creek -- +Kendall Creek. + +'December' 5. - Turning their backs on the Ferguson or Staaten the +party steered north, and at starting crossed the head of the +sand-flats, described by Leichhardt. The rest of the day's stage was +over sandy ridges covered with tea-tree and pandanus, tolerably +grassed, no creek or water-course of any description occurred along +the line, and the party had to camp without water at about 13 miles: +but as the Leader had not expected to find any at all for at least +40, this was not thought much of. The camp though waterless was well +grassed, and by dint of searching a small pool of slimy green water +was found before dark, about two-and-a-half miles to the N.N.W. in a +small watercourse, and by starting off the black boys, enough was +procured in the "billies" for the use of the party for supper. This +is marked a red day in Frank Jardine's diary, who closes his notes +with this entry. "Distance 13 miles. Course North at last." (Camp +XXXVII.) + +'December' 6. - The satisfaction of the party in getting away from +the Staaten and travelling on the right course was destined to +receive a check, and the Brothers to find they had not yet quite done +with that river. This morning about half the horses were away, and a +worse place for finding them, saving scrub, could hardly be imagined. +It was fortunate that the pool of water mentioned yesterday had been +found, as the cattle would have had to turn back to the river, but +this they were saved from. They were started away for the water at +day-break, in charge of two of the black boys, with instructions to +stay and feed them there until the horses came up or they were +relieved by Binney. No horses coming in, Binney was sent after them. +The Brothers searching for the horses, followed an hour-and-a-half +after, but on arriving at the pool found the cattle and boys but no +Binney. Returning to the camp they instructed the party to shift the +packs to the pool on the twelve horses that had been found. Binney +here came into the camp along the yesterday's tracks. He had missed +the cattle and did not know where he had been to. He was started +again on the cattle track by the Brothers, who then went in search of +more water, sending two more black boys to look for the horses. At +about four miles away they themselves came on to their tracks, which +they ran for about eight miles towards the coast, when they found +six. Continuing to follow the trail they were led to their 35th camp +on the Staaten, when they found three more. Here, as the sun went +down they were obliged to camp, and after short hobbling the horses +laid down by their fire, supperless, and without blankets. They saw +no water through the whole of the day, which was the cause of the +restlessness of the horses the previous night, and of their straying, +in spite of short hobbles. The myriads of mosquitoes too, which now +annoyed them may possibly have contributed to that end. + +'December' 7. - Leaving the nine horses hobbled to feed near the +water the Brothers separated, one taking up and the other down the +river to look for the others, in hopes that they might also have +turned back, but met again in the afternoon, each without success. +Starting back (with the nine recovered yesterday) at about two +o'clock, they returned to the camp, where fresh troubles awaited +them. Only two of the others had been found, and the party with the +pack-horses had succeeded in losing the mule, together with his pack. +Whilst preparing to start they had allowed him to poke away +unperceived in the scrubby timber, and did not miss him till ready to +start. Sambo had been at once despatched on his tracks but had not +yet returned. Binney had lost himself a second time and only +rejoined the camp at dark last night, after having ridden the whole +day, probably in a circle, without finding either horses or water. +The two black boys had been equally unsuccessful. Eulah and Barney +were now despatched with orders to camp out until they found the +missing horses, five of which, besides the mule, still were away. In +the evening Sambo returned quite exhausted for want of water, not +having seen or tasted any, or any food during the too days of his +absence. For an hour after coming into camp he was quite dilirious. +When sufficiently recovered and collected to speak he stated that he +had followed the tracks of the mule (who had evidently been +galloping) through the tea-tree levels, at the back of camp 35, when +he was obliged to turn back for want of water. This accident, the +result of gross carelessness, together with frequent cases of less +importance, induced in the Leader a want of confidence which caused +him great anxiety when away from the party, to which indeed he never +returned without a feeling of disquietude, which was not allayed +until he learned that all was well -- a harassing feeling, which few +but those who have experienced the responsibility of the conduct and +success of a similar expedition can fully appreciate. The water at +this camp was very bad, but still under the circumstances, a great +God-send. There were two holes equi-distant half-a-mile from the one +they were on, up and down the creek. The upper one was the deepest, +having many ducks, terns, and cranes on it. All three were +surrounded with a fringe of green rushes. By digging wells and +allowing the water to drain in, it was drinkable, although very +brackish. (Camp XXXVIII.) Latitude 16 degrees 13 minutes 45 +seconds. + +'December' 8. - At 4 o'clock this morning Alexander Jardine started +with Sambo after the mule. The Leader remained with the party +employing the day in exploring ahead for about 18 miles, in the hope +of finding water for a stage. This was a paramount necessity, for +the weather was so hot and the country so dry that twenty-four hours +without drinking drove the cattle nearly mad, their drivers suffering +almost equally. Finding no water during this search Mr. Jardine was +again in perplexity. Supposing the Mitchell to be 40 or 45 miles +ahead, the cattle could not reach it without water. On the other +hand if the coast were followed, it was probable that on reaching the +Mitchell they would have to trace it up 40 or 50 miles before it +could be crossed. The latter however seemed to be the best course, +if not the only one. The intention of Alexander Jardine was to have +got on to the mule's tracks, and run them over again until he +"pulled" him, but the ground being baked hard, stony, and grassless +Sambo was unable again to pick them up. However, whilst looking for +the mule's tracks they found three more of the horses, on a small +creek, fourteen miles from the camp, which ran into the river below +the last camp on it. He now determined to look for the other two, +and abandon the search after the mule for the present. One of them +"Lucifer" was found at camp 35. He was out of hobbles, and +immediately on being seen, started off at a gallop up the river. His +tracks were followed up to the next camp, six miles, where night +closing in Mr. Jardine was constrained to halt. The wretched animal +had apparently gone mad, probably with drinking salt water. + +'December' 9. - On resuming the search this morning Mr. A. Jardine +met Eulah and Barney. They also, had seen "Lucifer" on the coast, +but could do nothing with him. Detaching Sambo and Barney to +continue the search after the mule, and giving them all the +provision, he took Eulah with him to try once again to recover +"Lucifer." Picking up his trail at last night's camp, where they +left the three recovered horses, they ran it four miles up the river +and came upon him in a patch of scrub; they headed him after a hard +gallop and endeavoured to drive him down to the other horses, but all +to no purpose, they knocked up their horses and were obliged to +abandon the pursuit. He had evidently gone mad. Returning to the +camp they got fresh horses, and returned with the three to the party +of the main camp. + +'December' 10. - The two lost horses ("Lucifer" and "Deceiver") being +Mr. Jardine's best hacks and favourites, he determined to make one +more effort to recover them. Starting with Eulah this morning, he +travelled down the creek on which the cattle were camped for six +miles west, when he reached some large marine plains and downs, so +large, that though they ascended a high tree they could see nothing +between them and the horizon; they were grassed only with spinifex +"and other rubbish." They came on to Lucifer's tracks about 25 miles +from the camp, and found the place where he had been drinking the +salt water and lying down. From thence they followed his tracks for +15 miles through the tea-tree levels, and camped without water, after +having travelled, walking and riding, over between 40 or 50 miles of +the most miserable and desolate country imaginable, without finding +any fit to drink. Meanwhile Alexander Jardine took another cast to +find water and have a look at the coast. He also saw the Marine +Plains, and found them utterly waterless. This decided the question +of the coast-line route. + +'December' 11. - At daylight Mr. Jardine and Eulah again got on to +Lucifer's tracks, but the ground was so hard that they had to run +them on foot and lead their horses. At sun-down they hit camp 33 on +the river, having made only about 20 miles in a straight line. Here +they had a good drink. The water was rather brackish, but after two +days travelling over a parched and arid country, almost anything +would have been acceptable. They turned out and whilst trying to +catch something for their suppers, they saw Lucifer standing within +thirty yards of where their horses were feeding, but the moment he +caught sight of them he again galloped away. Mr. Jardine immediately +jumped on his horse and brought him back to Eulah's, but to no +purpose, for he galloped past without taking the least notice of him, +and as it was now dark they had to let him go. Alexander Jardine +spent the day in searching for water, and was fortunate enough to hit +on a permanent water hole, in a small creek, eight miles N.N.W. from +the camp. This discovery was like a ray of sunshine promising to +help them on their way. At night Sambo and Barney returned, but +without the mule. + +'December' 12. - Lucifer was again followed till mid-day. From the +time that he had left their camp last night he had galloped for 13 +miles without stopping, and when found he was quite white with sweat. +It was quite evident that he was perfectly mad from the effects of +the salt water, so that Mr. Jardine decided to abandon him without +wasting more horse-flesh. He turned therefore to look for the other +horse "Deceiver," expecting to find him in the same state. His +tracks being found shortly afterwards, they followed them for some +distance, when they came on to his dead carcase. The poor brute had +evidently died from want of water; the Leader therefore turned +homewards, hoping, but little expecting to find that the mule had +been found. These losses were a heavy blow, and sadly crippled the +party. Lucifer and Deceiver were the two best riding horses, and the +mule the best pack animal. His own loss was aggravated by his +carrying his pack with him. This carried most of the odd articles +that were hitherto deemed indispensible, but which henceforth they +had per force to dispense with. One pack contained all that remained +of the tea, currants, and raisins, which were saved from the fire, +and two pairs of boots, the only ones the Brothers had; and the other +was filled with oddments, such as files, gimlets, ragstone, steel, +weighing machine, awls, tomahawks, American axes, shoeing tools, and +a number of things "that they could not do without," but perhaps the +most important loss was that of the spade, to which they had many +times been indebted for water. Up to this time, that is to the 37th +camp, the number of the camp had always been cut in the wood of a +tree at each, with a mallet and chissel, these having gone with the +mule's pack the numbers were from this point cut with a tomahawk, but +as Mr. Jardine was expert and careful in its use it is probable that +his marks are but little less legible. The recovery of the mule +being now past all hope the Brothers determined to push on, thankful +that they were certain of water for one stage. It was the more +necessary, as two of the party, Scrutton and Cowderoy, were getting +ill from the effects of the bad water. At this camp Mr. Richardson +fixed the variation at 40 east. He had hitherto used a variation of +6 degrees in his plotting. + +'December' 13. - The Leader intended to have camped to-day on the +creek, found by his brother on the 11th, but whilst ahead looking for +a good camp for the morrow, he came at five miles further on, to what +he took to be the "Rocky Creek" of Leichhardt. He turned back +therefore and fetched the cattle on to it, making 13 instead of 8 +miles. But on turning out it was found that the water was not +drinkable, although the lagoon was covered with nympheas, generally +supposed to grow only in fresh water. These were white instead of +blue, which might be from the effect of the salt. However at a mile +up the creek, a fine reach of good water was found, two miles long +and sixty yards wide. The bed of the creek contained sandstone rock, +was well grassed, and where crossed, ran about east and north. A +fine barramundi was caught in it, and Alexander Jardine shot six +whistling ducks in the first creek. The country traversed to-day +alternated between extensive marine plains, covered with "pigs face," +('Misembrianthemum Iriangularis'), and crusted with salt, and low +undulating tea-tree, and banksia ridges. Birds were very plentiful, +large flocks of native companions ('Gurus Antigen,') stalked over the +marine plains, and when seen at the distance had the appearance of a +flock of sheep, gigantic cranes, pelicans, and ibis were numerous, +whilst in the lagoons of the creek, nearly every kind of water-fowl +common to Queensland, was found, except the coot and pigmy goose, +plover and snipe were abundant, also the elegant Burdekin duck, and a +small crane was noticed having a dark blue head and body, with white +throat and neck. (Camp XXXIX.) Lat. 16 degrees 3 minutes 38 +seconds. A tree was marked F. J. in heart on one side, and 39 in +square on the other. + +'December' 14. - To-day the party started north-east, the Leader +wishing, if possible, to hit the Mitchell at the head of the tide. +Water was carried in case these should not find any, but the +precaution was fortunately unnecessary. At five miles they crossed a +small creek from the eastward, having one small hole of water in it. +The country to that point was similar to that of yesterday, thence +outward for about 9 miles they traversed box flats, intersected with +low sandy rises, well grassed, and timbered with stringy-bark and +acacia. Another watered creek was crossed at about 9 miles from the +start, and the camp pitched at a round waterhole, in a well-watered +creek at 14 miles. Many gullies were crossed filled with the +screw-palm ('Pandanus Spirilas.') The soil of the box flats was a +stiff yellow clay. Hot winds had been prevalent for the last week +from the south-east, which parched and baked everything and made the +mosquitoes very numerous and annoying. (Camp XL.) Latitude 15 +degrees 56 minutes 31 seconds. + +'December' 15. - The grass was so coarse and dry at this camp, that +the precaution was taken of watching the horses all last night, and +the party started this morning by moonlight. For 5 miles they +travelled over box and tea-tree flats, full of funnel ant-hills, +melon and rat-holes, when they reached a narrow deep sandy creek, the +course of which was defined by a line of dark green timber, +presenting a strong and pleasing contrast with any previously crossed +along the "Levels," where they could never be distinguished from a +distance, being fringed with the same kind of timber. It came from +the eastward, was tolerably watered, and presented some bad broken +sandstone country on its north bank. Its shady appearance suggested +the appropriate name of "Arbor Creek." For three miles the route lay +over gullies, spurs, and walls of broken sandstone. The country +beyond opened agreably into flats, which might almost be called +plains, but for the lightly-dotted timber. The grasses though dry, +were finer and better than any seen, since leaving the Einnasleih. +The timber generally was white box, applegum, bloodwood, and +grevillea, and at 11 miles (from camp) the bauhinia, and Bidwill's +acacia commenced, and continued to the 42nd Camp. The flats towards +the end of the stage sloped to the north-east. At 19 miles the party +having accomplished a long stage, Mr. Jardine camped without water, +sending old Eulah to try and find some. He soon returned with the +welcome news that there was a well-watered creek on a-head, so +saddling up again, they drove on and reached it in about three miles. +It was well worth the extra fatigue to the stock. They were rewarded +by an excellent camp, plenty of green grass, open country and water, +which, after a drive of 23 long and dusty miles, was alike acceptable +to men and beasts. The creek received the name of Eulah Creek, in +honor of the discoverer. (Camp XLI.) + +'December' 16. - Between two and three miles of travelling over +flooded box country, having large melon holes in it, brought the +party to a well-watered creek, with vine scrub banks running N. W. +At three more, another and similar one was reached, where the scrubs +on the banks were so thick that the Brothers who were a-head had to +camp, to cut a road through them. This creek appeared to be an +ana-branch. Whilst they were engaged in marking a line for a +crossing place for the cattle, they saw some blacks, and tried to +avoid them, these however ran in the direction of the cattle, and +brandishing their spears laughingly, defied the horsemen, beckoning +them to come on. With this they complied, and turned them back over +the creek, and then sat down awaiting the arrival of the cattle. +They were not allowed to remain long in peace, for the natives, +having left their gins on the other side, swam over the creek and +tried to surround them. Being thus forced into a "row," the Brothers +determined to let them have it, only regretting that some of the +party were not with them, so as to make the lesson a more severe one. +The assailants spread out in a circle to try and surround them, but +seeing eight or nine of their companions drop, made them think better +of it, and they were finally hunted back again across the river, +leaving their friends behind them. The firing was heard by the +cattle party, but before they could come up, the fray was over. In +this case, as in all others, the collision was forced on the +explorers, who, as a rule, always avoided making use of their +superior arms. Leaving the cattle in camp, the Brothers spend the +afternoon in exploring the country a-head for 7 miles. After +crossing the river, the course lay through flooded country (the marks +on the trees being in some cases five feet high, covered with box, +and vine scrub, and the water, grasses, and rushes being matted +together with mud and rubbish,) to a large stream with broad sandy +bed, divided into three channels, altogether about 600 yards wide, +but with little water in them. The banks and islands were covered +with vine scrub, and lined with plum ('Owenia,') chestnut +('Castanopermum,') nonda, bauhinia, acacia, white cedar, the corypha +or (fan-leaved palm,) flooded gum, melaleuca (drooping tea-tree,) and +many creepers and shrubs. On the box flats travelled through, some +gunyahs, dams, and weirs were noticed, all constructed of matted +vines and palm leaves, which last grow almost everywhere. One of the +largest of the palms measured 13 1/2 feet at the butt, which is the +smallest end, as they here assume the shape of the bottle tree. This +stream was correctly surmised to be the long desired Mitchell, the +two last creeks being only its ana-branches. Although 10 miles +higher up in latitude 15 degrees 51 minutes 56 seconds it is +described by Leichhardt as being 1 1/2 miles wide. It here measured +as before described only about 600 yards. A number of fish were +caught at the camp. (Camp XLII.) Distance 6 miles. + +'December' 17. - After some little trouble the cattle were crossed +over this branch, a road having to be cut for them through the scrub. +At 5 miles they crossed another main branch about 450 yards wide, and +camped two miles on the other side of it, on a waterhole in a +Leichhardt-tree flat ('Nauclea Leichhardtii.') The country was the +same as described yesterday. One of the fattest of the cows died +from the effects of some poisonous herb, not detected. Some turkey's +eggs were found, and a wallaby, with which the vine scrubs were +swarming, was shot. The Torres Straits pigeon ('Carpophaga +Luctuosa,') was here met with for the first time on the trip, and +attracted the interest and admiration of the travellers. It is a +handsome bird, about the size of a wonga, the head and body pure +white, the primaries of the wings and edge of the tail feathers +black, and the vent feathers and under tail coverts tinged with a +delicate salmon color. Distance 7 or 8 miles. Course N.N.E. (Camp +XLIII.) + +'December' 18. - The river was followed down to-day for 9 miles +through a complete net-work of ana-branches, gullies, and vine scrubs +to another branch, which may be called the true stream. It was 30 +yards wide, deep, and running strongly. Here the party had to camp +for about 3 hours, whilst the Brothers searched for a good crossing. +The cattle and pack-horses were crossed in safety, but some of the +pack-bags got wetted in the passage. They were travelled another +mile over to a sandstone bar, crossing another deep sheet of water, +that had been previously found. This stream had been explored in +search of a ford for four miles further up but without success. It +continued of the same width and appeared to do so much further. This +day, Sunday, was marked by the severest conflict the travellers had +yet had with the natives, one which may well be degnified by the name +of the "battle of the Mitchell." On arriving at the running stream +before mentioned, whilst the cattle halted, the Brothers and Eulah, +taking axes with them, to clear the scrub, went down to find a safe +crossing. At about a-mile-and-a-half they came on to a number of +blacks fishing, these immediately crossed to the other side, but on +their return, swam across again in numbers, armed with large bundles +of spears and some nullahs and met them. The horsemen seeing they +were in for another row, now cantered forward towards the camp, +determined this time to give their assailants a severe lesson. This +was interpreted into a flight by the savages, who set up a yell, and +re-doubled their pursuit, sending in their spears thick and fast. +These now coming much too close to be pleasant (for some of them were +thrown a hundred yards), the three turned suddenly on their pursuers, +and galloping up to them, poured in a volley, the report of which +brought down their companions from the camp, when the skirmish became +general. The natives at first stood up courageously, but either by +accident or through fear, despair or stupidity, they got huddled in a +heap, in, and at the margin of the water, when ten carbines poured +volley after volley into them from all directions, killing and +wounding with every shot with very little return, nearly all of their +spears having been expended in the pursuit of the horsemen. About +thirty being killed, the Leader thought it prudent to hold his hand, +and let the rest escape. Many more must have been wounded and +probably drowned, for fifty nine rounds were counted as discharged. +On the return of the party to the cattle an incident occurred which +nearly cost one of them his life. One of the routed natives, +probably burning with revengeful and impotent hate, got into the +water under the river bank, and waited for the returning party, and +as they passed threw a spear at Scrutton, before any one was aware of +his proximity. The audacious savage had much better have left it +alone, for he paid for his temerity with his life. Although the +travellers came off providentially without hurt, there were many +narrow escapes, for which some of them might thank their good +fortune. At the commencement of the fight as Alexander Jardine was +levelling his carbine, a spear struck the ground between his feet, +causing him to drop his muzzle, and lodge the bullet in the ground a +few yards in front of him. His next shot told more successfully. +There were other equally close shaves, but providentially not a +scratch. This is one of the few instances in which the savages of +Queensland have been known to stand up in fight with white men, and +on this occasion they shewed no sign of surprise or fear at the +report and effect of fire-arms. But it is probable that they will +long remember the "Battle of the Mitchell." (Camp LXIV.) Course +N.N.W. Distance 7 miles. + +'December' 19. - The horses had to be watched last night, for the +grass was so dry and course that the stock would not look at it, but +kept rambling about. The river was followed down about 13 miles. +The whole country travelled to-day and yesterday shewed flood marks +from 5 to 15 feet high. The rushes, nardoo, thatch, and water-grass, +dried and parched by the hot winds, were matted together with mud and +rubbish. At the camp the stream was 150 yards wide, the running +water being 30 yards across. The banks were of clay and sandstone, +from 20 to 30 feet high, the water was discolored to a kind of +yellowish white. During the floods the stream must be eight or ten +miles wide, for, two miles back from it, a fish weir was seen in a +small gully. + +Altogether it would have been a frightful place for the party to have +been detained at. (Camp XLV.) Latitude 15 degrees 26 minutes 5 +seconds. + +'December' 20. - The river was still followed down to-day, the party +keeping about four miles from it, to avoid its scrubs and +ana-branches. At between 7 or 8 miles, a stream about 100 yards +wide, coming from the eastward, caused them to halt until a road was +cut through the thick vine scrub that fringed its banks. Four miles +further on they camped at a small lagoon close to the bank of the +river, at which point it is about 100 yards wide, deep, and too salt +for drinking, being affected by the tide. The country travelled over +was box, and tea-tree, melon-hole flats, shewing very high flood +marks. The ground had become very boggy from a heavy rain that fell +during the day. The night was very stormy, rain and wind falling and +blowing pretty equally. Two more head of cattle were dropped. The +total distance was 11 miles. Course W.N.W. (Camp XLVI.) + +'December' 21. - The rain of last night continuing through the +morning, the party had to start in the down-pour. They crossed +another large shallow sandy creek at four miles, coming from the +eastward running south-east. The camp was formed on a lagoon about a +mile from the river bank. The country traversed was sandy, growing +only coarse wirey grasses and spinifex, sandstone rock cropping out +occasionally above the surface. The river was here a +quarter-of-a-mile wide, salt, and running strongly. Before the +pack-horses came up, a mob of blacks approached the camp, and getting +up in the trees, took a good survey of the white intruders, but on +one of the party going towards them they scampered off over the open +ground towards the river. The recollection of the affair at the +crossing place probably quickening their movements. Just at +sun-down, however, the sharp eyes of the black-boys detected some of +them actually trying to stalk the whites, using green boughs for +screens. So the Brothers taking with them Scrutton and the four +black-boys, started in chase. They were in camp costume, that is to +say, shirt and belt, and all in excellent condition and wind, and now +a hunt commenced, which perhaps stands alone in the annals of nature +warfare. On being detected the natives again decamped, but this time +closely pursued. The party could at any time overtake or outstep the +fugitives, but they contented themselves with pressing steadilly on +them, in open order, without firing a shot, occasionally making a +spurt, which had the effect of causing the blacks to drop nearly all +their spears. They fairly hunted them for two miles into the scrub, +when, as darkness was coming on, they left their dingy assailants to +recover their wind, and returned to camp laughing heartily at their +"blank run," and taking with them as many of the abondoned spears as +they could carry. (Camp XLVII.) Distance 9 1/2 miles. Course W.N.W. + +'December' 22. - The Mitchell was left finally to-day, Mr. Jardine +determining on beginning the "straight running" for Cape York. The +first 8 miles was to a broad rocky creek, over tea-tree and box +flats, and small plains, fairly grassed, the best coast country that +had been seen. The creek appeared to be permanent, although there +was no water where it was crossed. From thence to camp, 7 miles, was +over saline plains, intersected by belts of bloodwood, tea-tree, +mangrove, nuptle, grevillea, dogwood, applegum, silky oak, and +pandanus. A second creek was crossed at 11 miles, similar to the +first. The camp was pitched at a puddle, without a blade of grass, +although its appearance was beautifully green, caused by a small sort +of tea-tree growing in great abundance, about 10 inches high, with +seven or eight large leaves on it. A steer was killed in the +evening, giving the party a very acceptable meal of meat, the first +they had tasted for three days, the weather being too hot to kill, +and there being no game to shoot. Course N. by W. Distance 15 +miles. (Camp XLVIII.) Latitude 15 degrees 2 minutes 10 seconds. + +'December' 23. - All hands were up almost the whole of last night, +some engaged in watching the cattle and horses, and others in cutting +up and jerking the beast. The rain came down heavily, and a cold +bitter wind was blowing; all the tents, save the ration tent, being +like seives, the outside was rather preferable to their shelter; so +each passed the night as best they could. The cattle were started +away in the morning, leaving Scrutton and Binney to finish jerking +the meat, there being some sunshine, which was beginning to be a +rarity, for the wet season had now fairly set in. Twelve miles of +wretched country were traversed, white sandy undulating ground, +clothed with shrubs and underwood, in the place of grass, and the +camp pitched on a low stringy-bark ridge, without water, for in this +flat sandy country the ground absorbs the rain as soon as it falls. +The horses had to be watched again to-night, for there was not a +blade of grass to be got. A small quantity of water was found in a +creek about a mile-and-a-half ahead. Late in the evening the horses +and water-bags were taken to it, and sufficient water brought back +for the use of the camp. Two small unimportant creeks were crossed +to-day, sandy and dry, trending west. Distance 12 miles N.W. by N. +(Camp XLIX.) + +'December' 24. - The cattle were watched at a small lagoon beyond the +creek before mentioned, which was deep and rocky. The country +continued of the same miserable character as yesterday, till at 7 +miles, the party came to a belt of bloodwood and stringy-bark, where, +by good luck, there was a little coarse grass, but as the stock had +had none for two days, they were not particular. (Camp L.) Distance +7 miles. Course N.N.W. + +'December' 25. - The rain came down all last night, and continuing +throughout the day (for the first time continually), did not suggest +a merry Christmas. However the Leader wished his companions the +compliments of the season, and pushed on. The country decidedly +improved if the weather did not. The tail end of some scrubs were +passed in the first five miles, cheifly tea-tree and oak, and +half-a-mile further on, a fine creek of sandstone rock, permenantly +watered; at 7 miles another similar, but larger, was named Christmas +Creek. Here whilst Mr. Jardine was halting in wait for the cattle, +he marked a tree XMAS, 1864, in square. In it the swamp mahogany was +seen for the first time since leaving Bowen. Its native name is +Belourgah. The creek was therefore christened by that name. At 15 +miles the party reached and camped on a fine, well-watered, rocky +creek, where the blue grass was plentiful, the first that had been +seen for many weeks. The country travelled over was very soft, and +though driven loose, three of the horses could scarcely travel over +it. The packs also were getting into a very dirty state, consequent +on the amount of mud and water they had been dragged through. The +timber noticed to-day was very varied, comprising all the kinds that +have already been mentioned, with the addition of the banksia, which +was observed for the first time, and a kind of pomegranate, which was +quite new to the Brothers. The trees grow large with soft white +bark, and large round leaves. The fruit as large as an hen's egg, in +shape like the common pomegranate. Unripe it is of a transparent +white, but when mature, has a dark pink color and slightly acid +taste. It is probably the euginia mentioned by Leichhardt. They +were much annoyed by the green-tree ant, all the trees and shrubs +being covered with them, in riding along they got about their +persons, and down their backs, where they stuck like ticks. They are +of a transparent green, nearly half-an-inch long, soft, and sticky. +On coming to the green feed and good water at the camp, it was felt +that this Christmas Day, if not the most cheerful, might have been +much worse. (Camp LI.) Distance 13 miles N.N.W. + +'December' 26, -- The party travelled to-day on a course N.N.W. for +about 14 miles over very similar country to that of yesterday, save +that they crossed no creek, and saw no water during the whole of the +stage. Some of the ground was very scrubby and boggy, and better, +though not well grassed, too much spear grass occuring. The camp was +pitched on a splendid sheet of water, in a rocky creek, 80 yards +wide, and very long, in which some of the party caught some fine +fish. Waterfowl of all kinds were also numerous. It received the +name of Hearsey Creek, after a particular friend, Mr. W. Hearsey +Salmon. The blacks were hanging about, but did not make their +appearance. (Camp LII.) + +'December' 27. - The course to-day lay over similar country, a little +to the west of north, for 16 miles to a small creek, which contained +in a puddle, just sufficient water for the use of the party and the +horses. The cattle had to go without. (Camp LIII.) + +'December' 18. - At five miles from starting this morning, the +thirsty cattle were able to get abundance of water in a long sandy +creek, running in several channels, and having a rocky sandstone bed. +It was named Holroyd Creek. Two miles further on another stream was +crossed of similar size and character, which received the name of +Dunsmuir Creek. Here the country suddenly changed into lightly +timbered box flats, poorly grassed, and flooded. Four miles more +brought them to a salt-water creek, which had to be run up +a-mile-and-a-half before drinkable water was found. The camp was +pitched on a lotus lagoon, the water of which was slightly brackish. +It received the name of Thalia Creek. About two hours after camping, +whilst the party were engaged in digging trenches round them, and +otherwise preparing for an impending thunder-storm, the black-boy +that was tailing the cattle, came running into the camp in great +excitement, with the news that the natives that had been seen in the +morning, had hunted him and were now running the horses, so half the +party immediately turned out in pursuit. To protect the carbines +from the coming storm, Alexander Jardine and Scrutton arrayed +themselves the one in a black and the other a white mackintosh, which +reached to their heels, whilst the Leader having a short coat on, a +revolver in each pocket, jumped on to the bare-back of one of the +horses. This time it was not a "blank run." The horses were +scuttling about in all directions, and the natives waited for the +whites, close to a mangrove scrub, till they got within sixty yards +of them, when they began throwing spears. They were answered with +Terry's breech-loaders, but whether fascinated by the strange attire +of the three whites, or frightended by the report of the fire-arms, +or charge of the horse, they stood for some time unable to fight or +run. At last they slowly retired in the scrub, having paid for their +gratuitious attack by the loss of some of their companions. Some of +them were of very large stature. The storm broke with great violence +accompanied with thunder and lightning and scattered the cattle off +the camp in spite of the efforts of the party to keep them. The +thunder caused them to rush about, whilst darkness caused the +watchers to run against them, and add to their fright. So they were +let go. (Camp LIV.) Distance 11 or 12 miles north. + +'December' 29. - The cattle were all gathered this morning, save 10, +for which Frank Jardine left two of the black-boys to seek and then +follow the party. To his great annoyance they came on at night +without them. The course to-day was N.N.E. over boggy tea-tree +flats, and low stringy-bark ridges. At three miles a large running +creek, one hundred yards wide, was struck, and had to be followed up +for four miles before a crossing was found. Four miles further +brought them to a small creek, well supplied with water from the +recent rains, and what was even more acceptable, plenty of green +feed, of which the cattle and horses stood in great need. The Leader +determined to halt here one day, to try and recover the lost cattle, +but felt anything but easy in doing so, for the flood-marks were six +feet high on the camp, which was high ground compared to the level +waste around them, and the rains seemed fairly to have set in. +Another heavy storm poured down on them at night. (Camp LV.) + +'December' 30. - The cattle remained here to-day, whilst Scrutton and +Eulah were sent back for the lost cattle. The Brothers went forward +a day's stage to try and find some high ground. In this they did not +succeed. The country was all alike, and they were satisfied beyond +doubt that it must be one sea during the rains; not a very comforting +discovery. They found a creek four miles on, which received the name +of Macleod Creek. It was large and deep, with a strong current +running, and chose a place at which they would have to cross, between +two high banks of red sandstone. They then returned to camp, and +spent the rest of the day in "sugar bag" hunting, in which they were +very successful, bringing in as much as made a feed for the whole +camp, which was no small quantity. Scrutton and Eulah returned at +dark, without having seen any traces of the missing cattle, so it was +determined to go on without them, as it would have been madness to +have remained longer in such dangerous country. At night they +experienced a heavy storm, which is thus described in Frank Jardine's +journal: -- "We had one of most severe wind and thunder storms this +evening that I ever saw. The largest trees bent like whip-sticks, +and the din caused by the wind, rain, thunder, and trees falling, +beyond description. People looking at it from under a snug roof +would have called it 'grand,' but we rhymed it with a very different +word." This may be called a "joke under difficulties." + +'December' 31. - Macleod Creek was reached by half-past eight o'clock +this morning, and cattle, horses, and packs were all safely crossed +by 9.15. The journey was then continued over, or rather, through +very boggy tea-tree flats, and undulating stringy-bark, nonda, and +bloodwood country, to a large flooded creek, coming from the +eastward, which received the name of "Kendall Creek," after a friend +of Mr. Richardson's. There was a little rising ground on its banks, +on which the party camped. Frank Jardine went up it for a few miles, +and found a spot at which to cross the next day, in the same manner +as at the last. At this camp some capital barramundi and perch were +caught, one of the former weighing no less than 14 pounds. They were +a great treat, as the party had been without meat for some days, the +heavy rains allowing them no chance of killing. The distance +travelled to-day was 12 miles, and course generally N.N.W., but the +track was winding in consequence of having to lead the horses, and +thread the way through the soundest looking places. (Camp LVI.) + + + +CHAPTER IV + +New Year's Day - Sinclair Creek - New Year's Creek - Kinloch Creek - +Micketeeboomulgeiai - The River Archer - The Coen - Slough of Despond +- River Batavia - Two Horses Drowned - Five Horses Poisoned - +Symptoms - Abandon Baggage - Cache - Party commence Walking - +Difficult Travelling - Two more Horses Die - Last Encounter with +Natives - Pandanus Thorns - Another Horse Sickens - Urgency of +Getting Forward - Dalhunty Creek - Another Horse Dies - "Creamy" and +"Rocket" Die - Skardon's Creek - Pitcher Plant - Two Saddles +Abandoned - Nell Gwynne's Foal Killed - Richardson's Range. + +'January' 1. - Kendall Creek was crossed early on the morning of +this, New Year's Day, and subsequently at distances of 10 and 14 +miles, two small creeks of running water, coming from the eastward, +named respectively Sinclair and New Year's Creeks, in which lilies +were abundant ('Blue Nympheas'), and on the last of which the party +camped. The progress was rendered very tedious and difficult, by the +large trunks and branches of trees, which had been blown down by the +storm of the 30th December, over and amongst which the weak horses +kept constantly falling. The country changed into red sandy ridges, +shewing an outcrop of sandstone, timbered with tall straight saplings +of stringy-bark and bloodwood, the larger timber having in all cases +been blown down. Some grass-tree country was also passed, covered +with quartz pebbles, white, or colored with oxide of iron. The +distance accomplished was 14 miles on a course of N.E. by N. (Camp +LVII. Nonda.) A heavy thunder-storm broke at night, followed by +steady rain. + +'January' 2. - The heavy rain, boggy soil, and recent long stages +made it necessary to turn out the cattle during the last night, as +the poor animals had so little chance of feeding during the day. +They were, however, gathered by the time the horses were ready in the +morning, having, probably, but little temptation to stray on the +boggy ground. The country traversed was similar to that of +yesterday, and very much encumbered with fallen timber. The grasses, +though thin, are of the best quality. Altogether the interval +between Kendall Creek and to-night's camp, a distance of 30 miles, +would make a fine cattle run, being watered at every six or seven +miles by running creeks, besides a large swamp. It was found to be +an extensive plateau, sloping away to the eastward, terminating +abruptly in a perpendicular wall, overlooking the valley, on the head +of which the party camped. The camp was one of the best of the whole +journey, being pitched on a grassy rise, sloping gently to the +eastward, and was a grateful relief after the barren and waterless +camps of the journey. The latitude was 13 degrees 47 seconds. +Distance 16 miles. (Camp LVIII.) + +'January' 3. - This morning the creek was followed down to near its +junction with a large sandy stream, coming from the north-east, which +was named Kinloch Creek, in honor of John Kinloch, Esq., Mathematical +Master of Sydney College. It was plentifully watered, and remarkable +for presenting the only iron-bark trees that were seen since leaving +the Einasleih. At 8 and 12 miles, two small very boggy creeks were +crossed, the first of which had to be bridged. Their banks were very +unsound and swampy, covered with tea-tree, pandanus, ferns, and all +kinds of valueless underwood. They were full of lilies, and appeared +to be constantly running, from which it was conjectured that they +must take their rise from springs. On passing the last, the party +emerged on to poorly grassed, desolate-looking sandstone ridges, +covered with grass-tree and zamia. A pine-tree ridge was then +passed, and a camp formed on a small water-course beyond, the total +distance being 16y miles on a bearing of N.N.E. 1/2 N. The latitude +was ascertained to be 13 degrees 35 minutes 54 seconds S. During the +day red kangaroos were seen, also the Torres Straits pigeon, and two +black cockatoos, with very large stiff crest, crimson cheeks, and +large black bill, the rest of the body black. This was the +('Microglossus Aterrimus'), a species peculiar to Northern Australia. +It is nearly one-third larger in size than the common black cockatoo, +from which it is mainly distinguished by the color of the bill, which +is black. (Camp LIX. Bloodwood.) + +'January' 4. - A heavy storm of rain and thunder having been +experienced last night, the party made a short day's stage, and +camped early to enable them to dry their meat, saddlery, bags, etc., +which had been thoroughly soaked. The horses backs too, were getting +sore from the use of wet saddles, and themselves tired. The course +was north, over stringy-bark and bloodwood ridges for 5 miles, to a +large running creek named Micketeeboomulgeiai,* from the north-east, +on which a crossing had to be cut; a mile-and-a-half further on, an +ana-branch was crossed, and the party camped. (Camp LX. Bloodwood.) + +[footnote]*In the Wellington Dialect "place where the lightning struck." + +'January' 5. - Still raining and wet to-day. A table-land of open +sandy ridges was traversed to a high point, the edge of which was +reached in five miles on a course N. by E. On reaching this point a +range was seen in front, extending east and west about 10 miles off, +between which and the party, a fine valley extended, traversed by a +large sandy river, which was named the Archer, in honor of Messrs. +Archer, of Gracemere. The river Archer flows from the north-east, +through a valley of great richness and beauty, and considered by the +explorers to be the best country for cattle seen north of Broadsound. +The banks of the river are fringed by a thick belt of vine-scrub, +containing very many Leichhardt and other handsome trees and shrubs +of great luxuriance and growth. The valley is also described as +being the first locality where any varities of flowers were seen, +some were of great beauty, particularly a bulb which bears a large +flower, shaped like a larkspur, of every tinge of red, from a +delicate pink to a rich purple. After crossing the Archer two +ana-branches were passed, the route laying over loamy black and +chocolate flats, and fine long sloping ridges, very thickly grassed, +quite free from stones, well-watered, and despite the heavy rains +that had fallen, perfectly sound. The range seen from the table-land +was low, and of much the same description. Distance travelled 15 +miles N. by E. (Camp LXI. Applegum.) + +'January' 6. - The march to-day was very trying to the poor horses, +being chiefly over rotten melon-hole country, of a yellow clayey +soil, timbered with stunted bloodwood and pandanus, the rain pouring +down all day. At two miles from camp a large creek was crossed +containing a little rain water, and subsequently nine or ten small +deep waterless creeks, their beds too sandy to be retentive. On one +of these the wearied party camped at the end of 16 or 17 miles. A +range 8 or 9 miles to the East, was sighted during the day. +Notwithstanding the rain, barely sufficient water was found at the +camp. Distance 17 miles. Course North. (Camp LXII. Poplar gum.) + +'January' 7. - At rather more than a mile from camp, two branches of +a large deep creek, were crossed just above its junction. It runs +from W. by N., had a little water in it, and the usual fringe of dark +green vine scrub, interspersed with Leichhardt trees. A hill on the +north bank covered with large sandstone boulders, marks the +crossing-place of the party. Numerous small water-courses similar to +those of yesterday, were crossed to-day. The country slightly +improved but was of the same character, waterless but for the showers +of rain. I was strange to see the horses bogging leg deep during a +thunder-storm, and in five minutes after unable to get a drink of +water. Large red funnel-shaped ant-hills were seen, in some +instances as high as 18 to 20 feet. The timber in addition to the +usual varities comprised zamias, iron bark, acacia, pandanus, mimosa, +sterculia [(Currijong'), grevillia, coral, ('Erythrina'), and Nonda +('Walrothia') trees. Scrub turkeys ('Talegalla Lathami'), wonga +wongas, and Torres Straits pigeon were seen. The party camped at the +end of 15 miles in a shallow tea-tree gulley, with a little water +from last night's rain in its sandy bed, supplying themselves with +drinking water from the rain, caught by the tents. Course North. +(Camp LXIII. Acacia.) + +'January' 8. -- The first 15 miles travelled over to-day were good +undulating forest country, timbered chiefly with box and applegum, +and a few iron-barks, and intersected with numerous canal-like +creeks, running north-west, but without water; the last three miles +was wretchedly bad, being similar to the tea-tree country of the +Staaten. The whole country between the Archer and Staaten is without +water, save immediately after rain, sufficiently heavy to set the +creeks running. The party camped on a small tea-tree "Gilgai," or +shallow water pan, and experienced another night of heavy rain with +high wind. Two more horses, Rasper and N'gress were found knocked +up. Distance 18 miles. Course N. The latitude of the camp was +ascertained to be 12 degrees 38 minutes 2 seconds. (Camp LXIV. +Bloodwood.) + +'January' 9. -- The fact of high land being observed to the west of +the course, and that the creeks all flowed eastward, induced the +party to think that they were near on the eastern slope of the +peninsula. This idea, however, was dispelled on their reaching at +the end of ten miles, a large river which was supposed to be the +Coen. It was running strongly W.N.W., and seemed distinctly to +divide the good and bad country, that on the south side being richly +grassed, open and lightly timbered, lucerne and other fine herbs +occurring frequently, whilst on the north side it relapsed into the +old barren tea-tree country of which so much had been traversed. +Considerable time was lost by the party in cutting a road for the +cattle through the thick scrub that fringes its banks, a kind of work +which was now becoming familiar. The Coen is about sixty yards wide, +sandy, and contains crocodiles. The country on it is described as +being of excellent quality for a cattle run. The party camped on a +tea-tree swamp with a few inches of water in it, 6 miles beyond the +crossing place. During the day wongas and Torres Strait pigeons were +observed, and scrub turkeys frequented the river scrubs. Distance 16 +miles. Course North. (Camp LXV. Bloodwood.) + +'January' 10. -- The journey to-day was one of unusual fatigue and +hardship. The country for the first two miles was comparatively +sound, but at this point the course was intercepted by a narrow boggy +creek, running strongly through a tea-tree flat. Although care and +time were taken in the selection of a proper spot, when the herd +began to cross, the leading cattle, breaking through the crust, sank +to their hips in the boggy spew below, and in a short time between 30 +and 40 were stuck fast, the remainder ploughing through with great +difficulty. Four beasts refused to face it altogether, and it was +found necessary, after wasting considerable time and a deal of +horse-flesh, to let them go. The greater part of the day was +consumed in dragging out the bogged cattle with ropes. Even with +this method and with all the exertions that could be used by the +party, five had to be abandoned, nothing appearing above the ground +but their backs and heads. The horses were more easily crossed, but +their saddles, packs, and loads had to be carried over by the party. +They then camped on the creek, and spent the remainder of the day in +drying their arms, saddles, etc., and in jerking the beef of one of +the beasts which they had been unable to pull out of the slough. +Heavy rain again fell at night, which caused an apprehension that +their progress would be altogether stopped if it continued. Distance +2 1/2 miles. Course North. (Camp LXVI. Pomegranite.) + +'January' 11. -- It is at this point that the heaviest troubles and +hardships of the party appear to have commenced, ,troubles that might +well appal hearts less stout than those of the Leader and his +brother, and hardships bearing heavily on each member of the party, +but doubly so on them who had to explore, mark, and clear the way for +the cattle, in addition to the ordinary labor of the journey. After +having travelled with the greatest difficulty for two miles over +execrable country, so boggy as to be barely possible to traverse, +their progress was stopped by a creek 25 yards wide, flooded "bank +and bank," and running like a mill sluice. This was the river +Batavia. The usual formidable fringe of vine scrub covered the +margin and approaches and had to be cut through before the cattle +could cross. This was done by the Brothers by the time they came up, +and in addition a large melaleuca which leant over the stream, was +felled across it, by means of which (by tying a rope above it, as a +leading line), they were enabled to carry over the packs, saddles, +stores, etc., on their heads. The cattle accustomed to swimming, +took the water in splendid style, one however getting entangled and +drowned. With the horses they were not so fortunate, for though a +head stall was put on each with a rope attached to the bit, to haul +them across, the rapidity of the current swept away two of them into +a tangle of vines in the middle of the stream, under which they were +carried and drowned, despite the exertions of four or five of the +party to pull them across by the rope. Their efforts to save them +nearly cost their own lives, and A. Jardine chronicles receiving a +"nasty crack" in the head from a log in attempting to disentangle his +own horse "Jack" from the vines, one which might have closed his +career, had it been a degree harder, the other, "Blokus," was a +Government horse, belonging to Mr Richardson; both were useful +horses, and a great loss to the party, but only the forerunner of +much greater ones. The creek at last crossed, the party attempted to +push forward on the other side, but after travelling a mile leading +the horses, slushing through bog and swamp under a heavy rain, they +were obliged to turn back and encamp on some high ground on the banks +of the creek, about half-a-mile above the crossing, where there was a +little good grass. Several of their horses were left behind bogged, +one mare in particular, "Nell Gwynne," being too weak to travel. +Distance 3 miles. Course N. (Camp LXVII.) + +'January' 12. -- It was determined to camp here to-day, both to spell +the weak horses and dry many things that had got wet. The horses +left bogged the previous night were got out, when on returning to the +camp, it was found that a number of the others were poisoned, and one +missing. The black-boys were immediately sent out in search of him, +but were unsuccessful. Meanwhile the party being unable to shift +camp that day, a yard was immediately formed, all herbs carefully +pulled up in and about it, and the horses penned there. The +precaution came too late, for before evening five of them besides the +missing one ("Rasper") were dead. It was supposed that "Rasper" must +have got into the river and been drowned, as one of the effects of +the poison is complete blindness. The symptoms are thus described. +Profuse sweating, with a heaving of the flanks, the ears droop, the +eyes glaze, set, and the animal finally turns stone blind. He then +lies down, struggles fitfully for several hours, and never rises +again. This was a heavy blow. Ten of their horses were now gone, +eight of which were picked, and the best of the whole number, besides +being the best conditioned, one peculiarity of the poison being that +it appears to attack the fattest animals. A careful search was made +to detect the plant that caused this fearful loss, but +unsuccessfully. The number of horses being now reduced to +twenty-one, and those the poorest and worst, it became necessary to +take only what was actually wanted of their baggage, and to abandon +the remainder. A cache was accordingly dug, and 25 sets of +horse-shoes, a lot of nails and other miscellaneous articles were +buried at the foot of an iron acacia on the top of the ridge and +facing the creek, on which was marked in a sheild F J over LXVII. +over DIG in heart. The horses were kept in the yard all night, and +the rest of the day and evening spent in disposing of the reduced +loading, and making preparations for leaving this fatal camp. The +rain continued to fall heavily throughout the day, which could not +under the circumstances, have increased the cheerfulness of the +party. The Leader, however, closes the entry in his Diary with "Nil +Desperandum" merely marking the day of the week in parenthesis as +("Black Thursday.") + +'January' 13. -- The poor condition of the horses, and the wretchedly +soft nature of the ground, making it impossible for them to be +ridden, or do more than carry the diminished loads of baggage and +stores, the party had no choice but to walk and in some cases even to +carry the packs of the horses. Mr. A. Jardine describes their +appearance this morning as "rather neat" at the starting from the +camp, the two Brothers, Mr. Binney, Scrutton, and the four black-boys +having doffed everything but their shirts and belts. It was well for +the whites that their previous habits on the journey had hardened +their feet and enabled them to travel without shoes, with but little +less hardship than their black companions. This they had acquired by +the custom on coming into camp, of going out with the boys opossum +and "sugar bag" hunting. With stout hearts and naked legs, therefore +they faced forward driving the horses and cattle before them, and by +the end of the day placed ten miles between them and "Poison Creek," +as it was then named. This however was not accomplished without +great toil, the country traversed being red soil ridges, with black +soil tea-tree flats between them, which were so many bogs. In these +the cattle floundered and bogged at every hundred yards, and even the +spare unladen horses had to be pulled out. The latter were at length +so completely knocked up that it was necessary to leave some of them +at one side of a swamp, the party carrying their packs and loads +about a quarter-of-a-mile on to a dry ridge on the other. Here they +camped and tired as they were, were obliged to keep a vigilant watch, +as, to add to their many annoyances the natives had been following +them all day. Distance 10 miles N.E. by N. Box marked F.J. 68 cross. + +'January' 14. -- At daylight this morning the horses were got over +the swamp, with less difficulty than was expected, being recruited by +their night's rest. The journey was resumed at 6.30. There had been +no rain on the previous day and night, and the ground with only this +twenty-four hours of dry weather had hardened sufficiently on the +crust to allow the horses to walk without bogging. This crust, +however, once broken through, they bogged hopelessly, until dragged +out with ropes. In this the water and sludge oozing out from the +tracks were great auxiliaries, as they formed a kind of batter, in +which, by pulling the horses on their sides, they slid along like +sledges. This process had continually to be repeated throughout the +day, causing so much delay, that seven or eight miles were with +difficulty accomplished. At each running stream the packs had to be +taken off and carried over. The country traversed was similar to +that of yesterday, undulating blood-wood red soil ridges, +sufficiently well-grassed, with the everlasting black soil, tea-tree +flats, and gullies running between them, some being very wide. Two +more horses died during the day from the effects of the poison, and +the Leader owns that he was beginning to be at his wits end as to how +they were to get along. Every superfluity and been abandoned, and, +with the exception of a few light things, such as clothes and +blankets, of too trifling weight to make it worth while to leave, and +only what was absolutely necessary, retained; yet there were barely +sufficient horses left to carry that. He had therefore good cause +for anxiety. The day kept tolerably fair until the party came into +camp, when the rain came down in torrents. Whilst in the hurry and +confusion of putting up the tents to protect the stores from the +deluge that was pouring, the alarm of "blacks" was again given. They +were fortunately unarmed, and the party easily chased them away. +This was fortunate, and was caused by the native custom of making the +gins carry their spears and shields on the march, themselves only +carrying a nulla or two. They were soon back again however, with +large bundles of spears, but not before the party had had time to +prepare for them. The rifles were dry and loaded. Frank Jardine +here owns to a feeling of savage delight at the prospect of having a +"shine" with these wretched savages, who, without provocation, hung +on their footsteps dogging them like hawks all through the thickest +of their troubles, watching with cowardly patience, for a favourable +moment to attack them at a disadvantage. Even then, however, he +would not be the agressor, but allowed them to come within sixty +yards, and ship their spears in the woomerahs, before they were fired +upon. The two foremost men fell to the only two shots that were +discharged, and their companions at once broke and fled; nor was the +advantage followed up, as the travellers were careful to husband +their ammunition, and their caps were running short. This, however, +was the last occasion on which the party was molested, their sable +adversaries having, probably, at length learned that "they were worth +letting alone," and never again shewing themselves. The distance +travelled was 8 miles. N.E. by N. + +'January' 15. -- This being Sunday and horses, cattle, and men, being +in want of rest after the work of the last two days, it was +determined to make a rest day. The party employed part of the time +in spreading out the contents of the pack bags to dry, everything +having become mouldy with the constant wetting. The day was marked +too, by a grant feast of "stodge," doughboys, and jam, stodge being a +delicacy extemporised for the occasion, consisting of "flour boiled +with water to the consistency of paste, with some small pieces of raw +meat thrown into it"!! The Brothers spent part of the afternoon in +the mutual good offices of picking the pandanus thorns out of each +others feet and legs, the blackboys following their example. These +thorns were a constant source of small torture to the party. The +necessity of trying the ground in advance of the cattle prevented +them wearing boots, and thus feet and legs were left without any +protection, and exposed them day after day to the same annoyance. +Another horse, "Creamy," sickened from the effects of the poison. It +was thought that he had not taken enough to kill him, and that the +day's rest would set him to rights. A cow was also left bogged in +the swamp. The ground on which the party encamped was supposed at +first to be dry, being on a bloodwood ridge, with six or eight inches +of gravel on the surface, but the heavy rain of the previous night +caused the water to run through the tents to a depth of three inches. +It was only necessary to scratch a handful of gravel off the crust to +get clear running water for drinking. A heavy rain again fell during +the night, dispelling all hopes of sound travelling for the morrow. +(Camp LXIX. Bloodwood.) + +'January' 16. -- The absolute necessity of getting at or near their +destination before the setting in of the periodical rains, stimulated +the Leader to urge the party to long stages, which was not at all +relished by some of the number, two of whom at starting made repeated +requests to camp for another day, alleging that they could not walk +any further. To this Mr. Jardine could not listen, and being further +importuned, disposed of the request summarily by packing their rifles +on the horses, and telling them that they might remain or come on as +they might elect. He heard no more grumbling, and a good stage was +accomplished. The country for the first two miles was similar to +that of the last two stages. It then suddenly changed into red sandy +stringy-bark ridges, with a dense under-growth of vines, zamias, and +pandanus, which made the walking difficult and painful. Several +creeks were crossed, the largest of which was at ten miles from the +camp, and running W. by N., and the party halted at another six miles +further on, which received the name of Dalhunty Creek. Its course +was west, and it was remarkable for the palms ('Seaforthia Elegans') +growing in its bed. All these creeks were supposed to be tributaries +of the Batavia River. The party had only to unpack the horses twice +during the day, and made a capital stage, but not without paying for +it, for even the Black-boys shewed signs of fatigue. Their legs and +feet, as well as those of most of the party were in a frightful +state, cut in peices by the thorny vines which covered the line of +march. They were now completely out of meat, but it would have been +unwise to halt to kill a beast for three reasons: first, the +weather; next, the fact that they could not pack the meat without +leaving behind something to make place for it, another of their +horses, Combo, having died to-day from the effects of the poison; and +lastly, the urgency of getting forward whilst the weather would admit +of it. The morning had been rainy, but in the afternoon it cleared +up and gave promised of a few fair days, of which it was expedient to +take advantage. In addition to the horse that died (Combo), two more +of their best horses (Rocket and Creamy) were fast sinking. It was a +fearful thing to see them dwindling away day by day, without power to +help or time to halt for them; but to press forward was a paramount +necessity. Distance 16 miles North. (Camp LXX. Applegum.) + +'January' 17. -- The country traversed to-day was similar to that of +yesterday, save that the ridges were higher and more stony. Creeks +were crossed at two and ten miles, running strongly westward, which +appeared to be permanent. Five miles further on, the party camped on +a smaller one of the same character, having vine scrub and seaforthia +palms on its banks, which was named Skardon's Creek. The horse +Creamy died during the day, and Rocket through the night. These +losses reduced their horses from forty-two, with which they started, +to fifteen of the culls. They were in latitude 11 degrees 51 minutes +50 seconds, and by their dead reckoning, just about the track of +Kennedy, supposing it to have been correctly charted, and therefore +on the western slope of the dividing range. The Torres Strait pigeon +('Carpophaga Luctuosa') was again seen, and the bitcher +plant('Nepenthes Kennedya') first noticed. Two of the police saddles +had to be left at this camp in consequence of the loss of the horses. +Distance 15 1/2 miles. North. (Camp LXXI.) + +'January' 18. -- The march to-day is described as being through the +most abominable country that can well be imagined, being a +continuation of loose white sandy ranges, thickly covered with low +bush from three to eight feet in height, broom, fern, grass-tree +('Xanthoraea'), pandanus, and "five-corner" bushes, being thickly +matted together with prickly vine. Not a tree relieved the monotony +of this waste, and what was worse, not a blade of grass was seen for +miles. Several deep creeks were crossed, all running strongly with +clear pelluced water to W. and N.W. The timber when it occured was +bloodwood, stringy and iron-bark on the ridges, banksia, grevillia, +and several kinds of tea-trees in the gullies, which were +honey-combed and boggy. Two new kinds of palm were seen. The bush +which seems to be what Kennedy alluded to as "heath," could only be +got through by leading a horse ahead, the others following slowly +behind him, the cattle then following in their track. A straight +course was impossible, as all the boggy creeks and gullies had to be +run up to their heads before they could be crossed. A general +course, however, was kept of N. by E. The packs were continually +being knocked off the horses, occasioning great delay, so that only +12 miles were accomplished. Some black perch were caught in one of +the creeks, and scrub turkeys were seen. Poor "Nell Gwynne's" foal +knocked up to-day, after having kept up bravely since the mare's +death. Nothing remained therefore but to kill him. The party being +without meat, and it being impossible to stop in such a country to +kill a beast, part of his flesh was dressed and carried on, which was +a grateful addition to the food, and although two or three at first +refused to eat of it, the craving of hunger soon made them forget +their repugnance to horse-flesh. At night the horses had to be short +hobbled and a watch kept over them. The weather kept fine, raising +the hopes of the Leader of getting in before the rains. + +'January' 19. -- Despite the watch kept over the horses, they got +away during the night, and a late start was the consequence. Several +hours were also lost at the first mile on the journey, in consequence +of some of the horses getting "upside down" in one of the deep narrow +creeks, which were constantly recurring, and having to be extricated. +These creeks run N.W., and take their rise from springs. They are so +boggy that in some cases, though perhaps only eighteen inches wide, +they had to be headed before the cattle could pass. The summit of +the range was reached in seven miles of similar country to that of +yesterday, resembling (identical in fact) in appearance and botanical +character, to the worst country of Botany Bay, the Surry Hills, and +coast about Sydney. A thick vine scrub was then passed, when the +party emerged on to some open ridges of red sandy soil, timbered with +bloodwood, stringy-bark, and nonda. They were now satisfied that +they were on eastern waters, as, whilst out sugar-bag hunting in the +evening, the Brothers saw the blue waters of the ocean about twelve +or fifteen miles to the eastward, a small arm of which was supposed +to be a bay to the northward of Cape Grenville. Their latitude was +11 degrees 46 minutes 36 seconds. The camp was pitched at the head +of a small creek running eastward. + +'January' 20. -- After 4 miles of brushwood and scrubby range had +been accomplished this morning, further progress was stopped by a +dense pine and vine scrub stretching across the course. The cattle +were halted outside, whilst the Brothers made search for an opening +for them to get through, in doing which they came on to a narrow +track cut by the blacks. This they followed for more than two miles, +but were obliged to return at last, the vine ropes, tangle, and dense +scrub, making it hopeless to attempt taking the cattle along it. A +further search proved equally unsuccessful. The whole party had +therefore to turn back along their tracks for a couple of miles, then +turning east they travelled on that bearing. At about half-a-mile +they reached the eastern slope, from which the sea was distinctly +visible. A spur of the range was followed for about four miles into +rather better country, where the party camped, being well-grassed and +slightly timbered, though stoney. Although about 9 miles were +travelled over, the distance in latitude from the last camp could not +have been more than one-and-a-half miles. From a bluff on the range +a fine view of the low country and sea was obtained, and a bearing +taken to Cape Grenville of 117 deg. Blacks' tracks were very +numerous to-day, and it was evident by the neat cutting of the marks +on the trees that they were provided with good iron tomahawks. Many +turkeys' nests were found, but the eggs only benefitted the stronger +stomachs of the party, having young ones in them in most cases. In +crossing one of the boggy creeks, one of the horses jumped on to a +pack-saddle, and a hook entering his skin lacerated it dreadfully. + +'January' 21. -- The course to-day was N.E. by N., along the eastern +slope of the Richardson Range, through a fearfully difficult country. +Seven deep scrubby creeks had to be crossed running strongly to the +westward, whose banks were invariably fringed with a thick scrub, +which had in each case to be cut through before the cattle could +pass: one in particular was so dense that it alone occupied three +hours in cutting. The cattle occasionally got their horns entangled +in the vines, and had to be cut loose. One cow got fearfully furious +at being thus arrested, and when extricated, galloped straight away, +and was no more seen. Over seven hours were occupied in making a +distance of about 8 miles, only 3 of which were spent in actual +travelling. A great variety of palms were seen in the scrubs, which +were covered with fruit and berries, but only the "Seaforthia," the +most graceful of the family, the 'Caryota Urens', remarkable for its +star-shaped fronds and the more common 'Corypha', of which the +colonial straw-hats are made, were known to the travellers. Latitude +11 degrees 37 minutes 46 seconds. + +'January' 22. -- The country traversed to-day was of the same +description as that of yesterday, utterly without grass, and the same +tedium and toil were experienced in cutting through the vine scrubs +which bordered the running creeks. These were very numerous, and +quite uniform in their difficulty, a lane for the cattle having to be +cut through each. Some very large pines were noticed to-day (most +probably 'Araucaria Cunninghamii'), which, forming large and dense +scrubs, twice forced the party out of their course. The camp +to-night was a very miserable one, surrounded by scrub and brushwood, +without a blade of grass for the stock, or even a tree that could be +marked, and to add to their wretchedness, a heavy rain came down +which lasted till near midnight. Course N.W., 10 miles. (Camp +LXXVI.) + +'January' 23. -- A steady rain poured down all to-day, and as +yesterday, the route alternated over and through desert wastes of +brush and tangled scrubs, the former telling with great severity on +the lacerated feet of the travellers. Their legs had the appearance +of having been curried by a machine. At the end of 9 miles they +luckily came on to a creek comparatively well-grassed on the banks. +This being the first that had been seen for three days, they joyfully +encamped on an open ridge. The timber comprised nonda, grevillea, +banksia, tea-tree, mahogany, and many other tropical trees not known. +The total distance travelled was 10 miles. N. by W. (Camp LXXVII.) + +'January' 24. -- For the first three miles to-day, the country +remained similar to the generality, that is, scrub and heath, after +this it slightly improved, opening into coarse sandstone ridges, in +some parts strewed with quartz pebbles, either white or tinted with +oxide of iron. At two miles from the start a stream was struck, +running north, having a clear sandy bed thirty yards wide, which was +immediately concluded to be a head of the Escape River, and a +continuation of that crossed on the 22nd. Into this, numerous short +steep scrubby creeks discharge themselves from the range or ridge to +the eastward. These had, as usual, all to have passages cut through +them for the stock. At the end of about six miles, a heavy +thunder-storm coming on whilst the party were engaged in clearing, +the creek they were upon was sent up bank and bank by the storm +water, and barred their further progress. They were therefore +compelled to camp. At sundown it was again nearly dry, but the rain +continued at intervals till midnight. During the day a large low +table-topped mountain was passed about 4 miles to the eastward. It +was either bare of timber or heath clad, and received the name of +Mount Bourcicault. (LXXVIII.) Distance 6 miles. N. by W. + +'January' 25. -- A ten-mile journey was accomplished to-day, the +country for the first seven having slightly improved into red soil +ridges coarsely grassed, having patches of scrub along their summits. +The remaining three were of the usual character, heath and brushwood, +in the midst of which, in a miserable hole as it is described, they +were obliged to camp. A delay of a couple of hours occured in +consequence of a thunder-storm flooding a narrow gutter that might be +hopped over. It was not until this subsided that the horses and +cattle could be made to face it, the poor brutes having been so +frightened with bogs and water, that the horses had to be led over +the smallest of them. The rain still continued to pour heavily at +intervals during the day. (Camp LXXIX.) No trees to mark. The +course was N. by W. + +'January' 26. -- After two miles of travelling, the party again +struck the supposed Escape River. The stream was flooded, and at +this point fifty yards wide, and the bed clear of fallen timber. A +bloodwood tree was marked on both sides, on the S. bank. The country +on either side is of a red and white sandy soil, timbered with +bloodwood, mahogany, melaleuca and black and white tea-tree, coarsely +grassed, with heath and scrub running down to the banks in many +places. The river was followed down for 7 or 8 miles, its general +course being N.W., the party having to cut roads for the cattle +through the thick scrubs which lined the tributary creeks and +gullies, in four instances. At this distance a large branch nearly +equal in size, joins it from the south-east, to which the name of the +"McHenry"* was given. It being flooded and deep, the party traced it +upwards for about a mile from its junction and encamped. The tents +being pitched and everything made secure for the night, the Brothers +explored up the stream in search of a good crossing place for the +morrow. After several trials were made, a spot was finally decided +upon, about three-quarters-of-a-mile from the camp, and they returned +with the pleasing prospect of having to swim the cattle and horses +over next day, and carry the packs on their heads. Black and white +cockatoos, some parrots, scrub turkeys ('Talegalla Lathami'), and +white pigeons (Torres Straits), were seen on the march, throughout +which the rain still continued to fall, as it did also during the +night. At this camp (80) the last of the sugar was finished, but +this was not thought much of, as from the latitude being ascertained +to be 11 degrees 10 minutes, it was supposed that Somerset could not +be more than 20 or 30 miles distant. How they were undeceived in +their conjecture, and had their hopes disappointed, will be seen. + +[footnote] *After Captain J. McHenry, of Arthur Downs, Isaac River. + +'January' 27. -- Early this morning the party addressed themselves to +the task of crossing the McHenry. This was accomplished in safety, +cattle and horses taking the water like dogs, the greater difficulty +being in getting over the packs, saddles, and stores, which had to be +carried on the heads of the swimmers of the party, and this necessary +part of a bushman's education was not common to all, or at least +sufficiently to be of use. The course was then continued on the +other side to the junction of the two streams. The rain continued to +fall steadily during most of the day, filling up every little creek +and gutter. Some of the former had to be swum over, whilst the +latter occured at every mile. Just below the junction there is a +large dense vine-scrub, which had to be skirted, after which, the +party continued their course down the supposed Escape, which had now +increased its width to a hundred yards. Its width when first struck, +was only twenty, increasing to forty or fifty at its junction with +the McHenry, when the united streams form an imposing river. Its +course is extremely winding, whilst the numberless creeks and gulleys +which join it, all with scrubby banks, make travelling along its +banks, a work of great labor and difficulty. The country on this +day's march slightly improved, being more open and better grassed, +the best being on the river banks, but coarse and sparse at best. +The timber chiefly bloodwood and black tea-tree. Several trees were +marked with a cross at the crossing place of the McHenry, and one +similarly at the point of the scrub below the junction. In +consequence of the many delays to-day the total distance travelled +was only 5 miles. Course N. by W. (Camp LXXXI.) + +'January' 28. -- The course of the river was followed down to-day for +about two-and-a-half miles, but the endlessly recurring water +courses, each with its eternal fringe of thick vine scrub, at last +compelled the party to turn to the west in order to avoid them, there +being no time to cut roads for the cattle. They were constantly +getting entangled by the horns in the hanging vines of the 'Calamus +Australis' and 'Flagetlaria', so often referred to. The effect of +this on some was to work them into such a perfect fury, that when +released by the party cutting them clear, they would in some +instances rush blindly away from the herd and be lost, as described +before. The intention on starting was to run the river down to the +head of the tide, and then establish a camp, where the cattle could +stay, whilst the Brothers went on to find Somerset, now supposed to +be not far distant. On leaving the river the course was shaped west, +to head the scrubs on the tributaries, but this, far from improving +the travelling, made it worse as they got into a maze of scrub, +heath, and swamps, through which they had to thread their course. +They, had therefore, to make their way back to the river, which was +again struck in about 7 miles. It was here running north, the bed +free from fallen timber, and about 150 yards wide, and so full and +flooded as to make it impossible to discover whether it was within +the tidal influence or not. Following the river for 4 miles, making +a total journey of 12, the rain pouring the whole day, the party +camped on the bank, where alone grass was to be found, and that even +very poor and thin. Two of the horses "Tabinga," and "Pussey," had +to be left about three miles back from the camp with their saddles, +utterly knocked up. A lame heifer was killed and cut up for jerking, +on the morrow. Course N.W. by N. Distance 12 miles. (Camp LXXXII.) + +'January' 29. -- This day was devoted to rest, with the exception of +the necessary duties of jerking the beef of the heifer, and preparing +for the start of the Brothers to find Somerset. The horses left +behind were sent for and brought into camp, and dispositions made for +a halt, until the return of the Leader. The packs, saddles, and +stores were "overhauled," and found for the most part to be +completely rotted, from the constant rain and severe duckings they +had undergone, making the party congratulate themselves that they +were near their destination. At the request of Frank Jardine, Mr. +Richardson plotted up the route, as far as this camp, and gave him +his position on the chart, with a note "that camp 82 was on the +Escape River, eight miles in a direct line from where it joins the +sea, and sixteen miles from Somerset." In this, as in the case of +the position of the Lynd, he was mistaken, the reason for which, he +states to be that his sextant was out of order. This was much to be +regretted, as failing the correctness of the surveyor's observations, +Mr. Jardine might just as well trust to his own dead reckoning. It +might be supposed that Mr. Richardson having had an opportunity of +checking his position by the bearing to Cape Grenville, when he +sighted the sea on the 20th inst, at camp 74, should have been able +more accurately to have determined his present position, but he +excuses himself on the score of the difficulty of estimating the +daily distance whilst walking.* This is a very admissable +explanation, considering the tedium and slowness of their progress in +winding through scrubs, and being delayed by crossings, the +tortuousness of their route making it difficult to keep the course. +It was the more unfortunate, therefore, that the sextant, which was +naturally depended upon for keeping them informed of their progress, +should have been allowed to become so deranged, as to be less +reliable than the result of mere dead reckoning. + +[footnote] *See his Journal. + + + +CHAPTER V. + +First Start in Search of Settlement -- Character of the Jardine -- +The Eliot -- Return to Main Camp -- Flooded State of River -- +Impromptu Raft -- Crossing Horses -- Uncertainty -- Second Start in +Search of Settlement -- View of the Ocean -- Reach South Shore of +Newcastle Bay -- Reach Mouth of True Escape -- Unable to Cross -- A +Dainty Meal -- Character of the Escape -- Return to Main Camp -- +Horses Knocked-up -- Another Horse Dead -- Flour Exhausted -- +Wretched Condition of Horses -- More Baggage Abandoned -- Prospects +-- The Whole Party Again Move Forward -- Another Horse Abandoned -- +Reach Head of Tide View of the Gulf -- Barne Island -- Return up the +Jardine -- Third Start in Search of Settlement -- Wild Grape -- +Crossing Saddles -- a Disappointment -- Head the Escape River -- Meet +Friendly Natives -- Natives Act as Pilots -- Native Bread -- Canoes +-- Corroboree -- Native Drums -- Arrival at Somerset -- Mr. Jardine's +Marked-tree Line -- Meeting with their Father -- A Heroine. + +'January' 30. -- This morning, Mr. F. Jardine with his Brother and +the Blackboy, Eulah, started to find the Settlement, leaving the rest +of the party encamped with the cattle, in charge of Mr. Scrutton. +They took with them a week's ration of 25 lbs. of flour, and 12 lbs. +meat (tea and sugar had long been things of the past), intending to +follow the supposed river down to the head of the tide. It was +accordingly followed for about 21 miles, but to their astonishment, +instead of trending N.N.E., its general course was found to be +North-west 1/2 West. This led them to the conclusion that it was a +western water, and not as they had hitherto supposed, the Escape +River. Of this they were now convinced, but to make certain, agreed +to continue travelling down it for two days more, and with this +intent camped on a creek coming in from the southward. The margin of +the river is generally open and coarsely grassed, timbered with +mahogany, bloodwood, and melaleuca, the points of scrubs and +brushwood occasionally closing down to the stream. Its width varies +from one to two-hundred yards, with a sandy bed, entirely free from +fallen timber. Its banks are steep in many places, of white clay and +coarse sandstone, and fringed with tall melaleuca, whose long +drooping branches and leaves swept the rapid and deep stream. A +straight course was impracticable, for as soon as attempted, and the +river was out of sight, the party got entangled in thick brushes and +tea-tree swamps, without a blade of grass. They were obliged, +therefore, to follow the course of the river in all its windings. +The only birds seen were scrub turkeys, and Torres Strait pigeons. +The weather at starting was fine, but about 11 o'clock the rain +commenced, and continued steadily the whole of the day. At night, on +camping, a "bandicoot gunyah" was erected, and covered with the broad +pliable paper bark of the melaleuca, which made a snug shelter for +the night from the still pouring rain. Course generally N.W by W. +Distance following the river, 21 miles. + +'January' 31. -- Crossing the creek immediately after leaving the +camp, the party still continued to follow the windings of the river +through similar country to that of yesterday, save that the ground +was more boggy, the swamps, ana-branches, and small lagoons more +numerous. On the latter some Coromandel geese were seen, of a +species different from those found near Rockhampton. The heavy rain +which had continued all last night had caused the river to rise +several inches. At about ten miles the progress of the party was +stopped by a large stream coming in from the South-east, about the +same size as the McHenry. A tree was marked AJ at the junction which +was very scrubby, and the new stream received the name of the Eliot. +It was running strongly, and had to be traced up for two miles, +before the party could cross in safety. This they fortunately +accomplished without accident, although the water was up to their +necks, as they waded across with their saddles and packs on their +heads, giving them all they could do to stem the rapid current. They +then proceeded on their way for 7 miles further, the last two of +which were through thick brush, and camped on the bank of the main +stream, now much augmented in size after receiving the waters of the +Eliot. There was but little grass for the poor horses, but no +choice, the country back from the river being all scrubs and swamps, +covered with tea-tree, but barren of grass. The total distance +travelled was 17 miles. The course generally West by South, clearly +proving that they could not be on the Escape. + +'February' 1. -- The river was again followed for about seven miles +further, but as the course still continued to trend West, and even +south of West, the Brothers in disgust determined on re-tracing their +steps, satisfied, if satisfaction can be predicated of such a +disappointment, that they were on western waters, and that they had +not yet reached the looked-for Escape River. At this point, +therefore, they turned, intending to swim the river at the main camp, +and make another exploration to find the Settlement from the North +side, or right bank. By night-fall they reached their first night's +camp, where they found the "gunyah" very acceptable. They had now +followed the supposed Escape 45 miles; deducting a third for its +sinuosities, a distance of at least 30 miles in a straight line +Westward had been travelled, and they were filled with surprise that +so large and important a stream should have remained undiscovered. +Its width at their turning-point was over two-hundred yards, the +banks commencing to be very swampy, and it is described by Mr. A. +Jardine, as the most compact river, with the exception of the +Fitzroy, he had seen in the North. The rain continued as yesterday +during the whole of the day, accompanied with cold winds. This, +together with their disappointment, was sufficient to depress the +spirits of most men. There is not, however, in the journals of +either of the Brothers the slightest indication of despondency or +complaint. + +'February' 2. -- The main camp was reached this morning early, and +everything found safe and right, save in one particular, that +deserves recording. In looking over the ration account, Mr. Jardine +found a deficiency of 30 lbs. of flour, accruing in the interval of +the four days of his absence. All denied any knowledge of it, and +all were equally certain that the allowance had not been exceeded; +"so" writes Frank Jardine, "where it is gone to, I am never likely to +know," and there the matter dropped. It is humiliating to think, +that amongst white men banded together in exploring parties, where +the success and safety of the enterprise are much dependent on the +good conduct of each individual member, there should be found +individuals so ignoble, as to appropriate an undue share of the +common stock of food on which the health, and perhaps the life of +each equally depends; and yet, sad to say, such instances are not +singular. The well-proved charge against Gray of cooking flour for +himself privately, for which he was chastised by poor Burke, is one +instance. Gray's excuse was that he was so ill, and his apologists +point to the fact that he subsequently died. Either Burke or Wills +would have died on the spot, rather than have taken an ounce more +than their meanest companion, and yet it has been asked why this man +has had no monument. Again, in the unfortunate expedition of poor +Kennedy (not far from their present camp), the storekeeper of the +partyof the name of Niblett, was discovered to have largely pilfered +from the stores for a considerable time previously. Who knows that, +but for the deficiency his greed caused, more of that ill-fated party +might have held out until the succour arrived, guided by the heroic +black, Jacky, who risked his own life to save that of his master, and +whose name is as worthy of being held up for honour as that of the +white man's for contempt. + +'February' 3. -- This day was spent by the Brothers with their +black-boys in hunting for a good crossing place, or as they described +it, "doing a little water dogging." The river being two hundred +yards wide, and running rapidly, made it a difficult matter, and +after trying a number of places, it was found that as they were all +alike, deep and wide, they might as well cross opposite the camp. +This would not be without risk and danger, but the exigency of the +party made it necessary. Their flour was nearly exhausted, and they +had nothing else but the jerked meat of the beef they killed, and +what they could catch in the bush, to depend on. In this last, +however, as old hunters and bushmen, they were generally pretty +successful, supplementing and eking out their ordinary rations very +largely. The day previous their larder had been recruited by three +iguanas' eggs, a brush turkey ('Megapodius Tumulus'), and nine +turkeys' eggs. The rain came down as usual at intervals during the +day, which, added to the almost incessant rain of the four previous +days, brought the river down during the night, increasing its volume +and current so much as to make it dangerous to attempt crossing. + +'February' 4. -- The river being too high to cross, the start for the +Settlement was postponed, the fagged horses getting the benefit of +the delay. A beast was killed in the evening. The weather clearing, +Mr. Richardson was enabled to get correct observations for the +latitude, having succeeded in putting his sextant into tolerable +adjustment. The readings gave the latitude of camp 82 to be 11 +degrees 11 minutes 39 seconds, or about 33 miles south from Cape +York. Part of the day was employed in constructing a raft to float +over the saddles, rations, etc. This was done by stretching a hide +over a frame of wood, but not without some trouble, as it was found +that the only wood light enough for the purpose, was dead nonda, and +this being scarce, had to be searched for. Before evening, however, +a raft was finished sufficiently light for the purpose. + +'February' 5. -- The river having sunk considerably during the night, +the crossing was commenced this morning, despite the downpour of +rain, which lasted all day without a break. The stream was one +hundred and thirty yards wide, the banks fringed with scrub and +vines, and the current still running rapidly. It required therefore +strong and expert swimmers to get the horses across, the method being +as follows: -- One of the party went in first with a line made fast +to the bit of the horse's bridle, and another followed, holding on to +his tail by way of rudder. Now as a horse can swim faster than a +man, and is of course heavier in the water, the leader has no easy +task even if the horse swim honestly for the opposite bank, but +should he turn back or boggle at all, man and line are alike +powerless; the use of the rudder therefore will be seen. When the +leader reaches the opposite bank, he has to scramble up nimbly, or he +may have the horse on him, and arrived there, be in readiness with +the line to assist him should he get entangled in the saplings and +vines which fringe the banks. It will be remembered that in crossing +the Batavia on the 11th January, two horses were drowned, in spite of +every care and precaution. Here, however, they were fortunate enough +to cross their four horses without accident, Mr. Scrutton, old Eulah, +and the black-boys doing good service, being all excellent swimmers. +The saddles and rations were then floated over in the raft, also +without accident, and the advanced party (the Brothers and Eulah) +camped on the north side, leaving the remainder of the party and +cattle in charge of Mr. Scrutton. Even now, Frank Jardine was +uncertain as to what stream they were on, and still leaned to the +belief that it was the Escape, his faith in the result of the +observations, having been shaken by the accident to the sextant. +They failed to assist him in his opinion, which was sorely puzzled by +the river running westward. He considered it, therefore, absolutely +necessary to find the Settlement before moving the cattle forward, +his horses being so weak, as to make it useless to travel on in +uncertainty. The necessity for reaching their journey's end was +becoming urgent, for their tea and sugar were exhausted, their flour +nearly so, and some of the party were complaining of being unwell, +and getting very weak. + +'February' 6. -- The second start was made this morning, the Brothers +intending to find either the Settlement or the mouth of the Escape. +Their course for the first 15 miles was N.N.East, over barren white +sandy country, covered with brushwood and scrub. At 7 miles a large +deep running creek was crossed, running westward. Its south bank was +so densely covered with vine scrub, that they had to walk and cut +their way through it with their tomahawks. After crossing it, the +country suddenly changed to thickly timbered sandy ridges, some being +rocky, of course sandstone, the more elevated ones having belts of +impenetrable scrub running along their crest. At 12 miles a fine +sheet of water was passed, surrounded by sandy coarsely-grassed +ridges. At 15 miles, from a line of high ridges forming a +saddle-range, they had a view of the ocean, and could distinguish a +few small islands out to sea. It might have been seen sooner but for +the drizzling rain which fell with little intermission. The range +was of red soil, timbered with bloodwood, and stringy-bark. Two +miles further on the country improved still more, continuing from +thence into their camp, 6 miles. The course was altered from the +range to N. by E., and at 20 miles a white hill was reached, from +which they looked down on the sea about half-a-mile distant beneath +them. This was Newcastle Bay. Turning westward and skirting the +coast, they travelled 3 miles further on, and camped on a palm creek, +with very steep banks. Large flocks of the Torres Strait pigeons +flew over in the evening. Distance travelled 23 miles. + +'February' 7. -- The good country traversed yesterday ceased at a +creek half-a-mile from the camp, on crossing which the party had to +cut their way as usual, after which the course skirting the coast lay +over a villainous country, boggy swamps, brushwood and scrub. After +travelling 7 or 8 miles their progress was arrested by a large stream +three-quarters-of-a-mile in width, running rapidly from the W.N.W. +Its banks were low and muddy, covered with a wide belt of dense +mangroves, its muddy and swollen waters carrying down quantities of +rubbish. This they correctly surmised to be the mouth of the +veritable "Escape" but Frank Jardine was again in error in supposing +it to be the same stream that they had left the cattle on. Seeing so +large a stream he naturally reverted to the idea that it had turned +on itself, and that their first exploration had stopped before +reaching the turning point. His case was dispiriting in the extreme. +The main camp was not more than 15 miles in latitude south of his +present position. The Settlement, the long-wished end of their +journey, could not be more than 20 to the North, yet his progress was +arrested by a broad and rapid river, to head the supposed bend of +which he had ineffectually travelled nearly 50 miles. His plan was +now to follow the Escape up in hopes of being able to cross at the +head of the tide, and so reach Somerset, but this, as will be seen, +was more easily planned than executed. Following up the course of +the river the way lay over a country which Alexander Jardine mentions +in his notes as "too bad to describe," pandanus swamps, vine scrubs, +and small creeks swollen by the rains to a swimmable depth, +succeeding one another along the whole stage. At the latter the +horses had always to be unpacked and their saddles taken over on the +heads of the party. Three hours were consumed in cutting their way +through the last of the vine scrubs, when they camped on the outside, +three of the horses being completely knocked up. The Brothers then +walked to the river in hopes of finding a crossing place. This +however, proved hopeless. A thick matted fringe of mangroves nearly +three miles wide intervened between them and its bank, through which +it was next to impossible to make any headway. Their supper to-night +was augmented by a lucky "find" during the day of thirteen scrub +turkeys' eggs, which, though they would scarcely have been +appreciated at an ordinary breakfast table, were very acceptable to +tired and hungry travellers existing principally on jerked beef. +Eating what yolk or white they contained, they plucked and roasted +the chicks as a "bonne-bouche." Fires had to be kept going day and +night to drive away, and protect the poor miserable horses from the +march and sand-flies by day, and mosquitoes by night. These were, in +fact, the principal cause of the poverty and debility of the poor +brutes, who could never get a moment's rest to feed or sleep. +Twenty-two miles were accomplished to-day, despite their difficulties. + +'February' 8. -- The journey was continued to-day up the Escape, the +course of which was very crooked, but generally N.W. by N. The +horses knocked up a few miles after starting. The party were +therefore obliged to walk and drive them before them. The country +traversed was similar to that of yesterday, so that they could not +get more than a-mile-and-a-half an hour out of the poor jaded beasts. +Three times they tried to make into the river bank, but without +success, from the great width and the density of the belt of +mangroves, and the soft mud. An old black's camp was passed in which +they found heaps of shells, turtle, and shark bones. In the evening +they caught a quantity of whelks and cockles, which, with an iguana, +and three turkeys' eggs, made a good supper. + +'February' 9. -- The course of the river to-day was even more crooked +than yesterday, the nature of the country continuing the same, save +that the swampy ground was occasionally broken by ridges of +bloodwood, and stringy-bark. From a tree on one of these they had a +fine view of Newcastle Bay, and what was supposed to be Mount +Adolphus Island, the latter about 25 miles away, and could trace the +course of the river to where it debouched, by the stretch of +mangroves. Here, therefore, they were within 20 miles of their +destination, which they were tantalised by seeing, without being able +to reach. With difficulty they drove their horses before them for 7 +miles, when they turned out and camped, as well to hunt, as again to +try and reach the river. In the first they were pretty successful, +getting some turkeys' eggs and shell-fish, but the last they were +unable to do, mud and mangroves barring their way, whilst the salt +water proved to them that they were still within the influence of the +tide, and the stream was still between three and four hundred yards +wide. Despairing of being able to find a crossing to which they +could fetch the cattle, their horses being unable to cross the river, +to continue the search for Somerset in advance, and their scanty +provision of flour being nearly exhausted, Frank Jardine, reluctantly +abandoning the idea of getting into the Settlement, determined to +return to the cattle, and with them, head the supposed bend of the +Escape. Disheartening as this was, there was nothing else to be done +in the present state of the country. Distance travelled, 7 miles +westerly. + +'February' 10. -- Turning their backs on the mangroves and swamps of +the Escape River, the little party faced for the camp, steering +S.S.E. The first four miles was through boggy, swampy country, +through which they walked, driving their horses before them. The +remainder was over the usual iron-bark and bloodwood ridges, fairly +grassed with coarse grasses, intersected with swamps and belts of scrub, +through one of which they were three hours in forcing their way two +miles. After 11 miles of this kind of travelling they camped, the +horses completely knocked up, the men in not much better condition, +having had to drag the horses out of bogs several times, besides +cutting through the hanging vines of the scrubs. Distance 12 miles. + +'February' 11. -- The main camp was reached to-day, after another +fatiguing journey of 11 or 12 miles, the first 6 miles similar to +that of yesterday, the remainder through heath and brushwood. It was +sundown before they reached the river, which they found much swollen. +A heavy thunder-shower of two hours' duration, put up all the creeks +bank high, one of which, at about two miles from the river, they had +to swim across. Having struck it immediately opposite the camp, they +left their jaded horses with their saddles on the north side, and +swam across themselves to the party. During their absence another of +the horses, "Pussey," had died from exhaustion. + +'February' 12. -- The meat at the camp being all consumed, it became +necessary to halt for a couple of days, in order to kill and jerk a +beast. The flour too was now exhausted, save 10 lbs., which was +judiciously put by and reserved for an emergency. The day was spent +in crossing back the four horses, with saddles and swags. The cattle +were counted and some found missing; the Black-boys were therefore +sent in search of them. A beast was killed, cut up, and jerked, a +tedious task, from the absence of the sun. Although there were only +a few light showers towards evening, the air was damp; the meat, +therefore, had to be smoked under a covering. + +'February' 13. -- The lost cattle were found to-day, the jerking of +the meat finished, and preparations for a final start on the morrow +completed. The unfortunate horses were in such wretched condition, +that it was found necessary to lighten the loads to the Settlement. +Four pack-saddles, two police saddles, and the two belonging to the +Brothers were therefore abandoned, with the remainder of the odds and +ends. The prospect before them was not very bright. With no +provision save jerked meat, and with knocked-up horses, they were +starting on a journey of at least 100 miles, when their destination +was not more than 30 miles away from them. they hoped to head the +bend of the river they were on (having reverted to the opinion that +it was the Escape), without knowing how far beyond the lowest point +of their first exploration this turning-point might be, or what +obstructions might be a-head of them. On the other hand, the whole +of the party were without sickness, and they had plenty of cattle to +eat. + +'February' 14. -- A final start was made this morning from camp 82, +of dreary memory, after a good deal of trouble in packing, choosing +and rejecting what was too heavy or useless, and the other delays +attendant on the breaking up of an established camp. The river was +followed for 11 miles with the usual amount of bogging and +difficulty, in crossing the small trench-like creeks already +mentioned. In one of these they were compelled to abandon another +horse (Tabinga). The poor brute fell in trying to cross, and when +pulled out and set on his legs was too weak to stand. He had to be +left, therefore, saddle and all. Another (Pussy) having died at the +last camp, their number was now reduced to thirteen. Their loads +were reduced to the slightest possible, and consisted merely of the +jerked meat, the ammunition, and swags of the party. Distance 11 +miles. (Camp LXXXIII.) + +'February' 15. -- A gloomy morning with light showers, 10 miles were +accomplished to-day. Three hours were consumed in crossing one of +the boggy gullies. Every horse had to be unpacked, and half of them +had to be pulled across with ropes. The pack of another horse (Lady +Scott) had to be abandoned. She was too weak to carry even the empty +saddle. The camp was pitched in the angle formed by the large creek +running into the river just below the gunyah camp of their first +trip, mentioned January 30th. (Camp LXXXIV.) + +'February' 16. -- The Eliot was reached to-day 8 miles from the camp. +It had fallen considerably, but was still too high to allow of +crossing without taking off the packs. It was about thirty yards +wide, and running clear, about five feet deep, where the party +crossed. The camp was pitched on the main stream two miles further, +making a total of 10 miles for the day's journey. (Camp LXXXV. +Nonda.) + +'February' 17. -- The lowest camp of the Brothers on their first trip +was passed to-day at about 6 miles. The total distance they +estimated they had travelled down the river on that occasion was 40 +to 45 miles, as it will be remembered that they went 6 or 7 miles +beyond this camp on the 1st of February. The true distance to the +turning point by Mr. Richardson's reckoning, was estimated at 35 +miles, which is probably correct. Mr. Richardson in his journal of +to-day's date says, "they told me they had travelled 20 miles North +and 30 miles West." A glance at sheet No. 14 will shew this to have +been an error; and in a foot-note at February 2nd, he states, "I +afterwards found that these distances were incorrect. The true +distances West and North respectively from the 82nd camp to the point +in our track where the Leader turned back, are about 24 miles W. and +7 N." Now, considering the tortuous course of the river, the nature +of the country, the weather, and obstacles of the creeks, 6 miles is +not a great error in westing. Mr. Richardson's own reckoning, +generally, despite his advantage over the Brothers, in having nothing +to do but follow the cattle, was not more to be depended upon, whilst +the results of his observations by the sextant were not so much so, +as he naively informs us he did not think he error in Latitude was +more than 15 miles! It appears evident therefore that the dead +reckoning of the explorers was of equal, if not greater value, as far +as the journey was concerned, than the surveyor's, the chief result +and use of whose presence in the party is, that we have been +furnished with a very excellent and interesting map of the route; but +it by no means assisted the Leader in the piloting of the Expedition, +or resolved his doubts when at fault, either at this point or on +leaving the Einasleih in search of the Lynd. The party camped at the +end of about two miles on the right bank of a broad deep creek +running in from S.W., when after turning out, some of them went +fishing, but only one small cat-fish was caught. + +'February' 18. -- A slight rain fell during last night, but cleared +off before morning. The creek was crossed at about a mile from the +camp, cattle, horses, and men having to swim. The former took it +like water-dogs, and the latter had as usual to carry their saddles, +packs, and "traps" over on their heads. After ten miles of +travelling over poorly-grassed stringy-bark ridges, the country +resumed its old character of swamp, brushwood, and low scrubby banks, +flooded for four or five feet, the overflow filling swamps running +parallel, and about two or three hundred yards distant from the +river. This was followed during the day's march, and they were +elated with the hope that they had at length reached the much wished +for bend, the course being slightly to the eastward of north. It was +Mr. Jardine's intention to have again halted the party when they +reached this point, and once more pushed forward in search of +Somerset, but they were out of meat, and the party had started +without breakfast, there being nothing to eat. He therefore camped +at the end of 10 miles to kill a beast. there were a good many +delays during the march, chiefly to pull the exhausted horses out of +the constantly recurring bogs. Poor "Lady Scott" especially was with +great difficulty got into camp. Distance 10 miles, N. 1/2 E. (Camp +LXXXVII. Bloodwood) + +'February' 19. -- To-day was chiefly devoted to rest, and the cutting +up, jerking, and smoking of the beef by the whites, the black-boys, +after the manner of their race, dividing it pretty equally between +sleeping and stuffing. The meat curing was as usual a slow process, +there being no salt, and a gunyah having to be made to smoke it in. +The river was here first observed to have a rise and fall in it of +about six inches. Its width was about a quarter of a mile. + +The latitude of this camp (87) is 11 degrees 11 minutes 13 seconds +The latitude of camp (82) is 10 degrees 58 minutes 2 seconds +The Northing therefore equals 13 minutes 11 seconds + +'February' 20. -- It commenced to rain at two o'clock this morning, +and continued heavily as the party started. The river again turned +to the Westward, to their great disappointment. The course was +continued along it for 9 miles, when they were brought to a +stand-still by a deep creek with boggy banks, twenty yards wide, +flowing from the South. It was evidently affected by the tide, as +the water was slightly brackish and the edge fringed by a species of +mangrove. A crossing-place was looked for without success, and the +camp was finally pitched, as the rain was pouring heavily. (Camp +LXXXVIII.) + +'February' 21. -- This morning the Brothers, taking old Eulah with +them, swam across the creek, alligators notwithstanding, and walked +to the top of a high stringy-bark ridge on the south side. Selecting +the highest tree he could find (a bloodwood) Alexander Jardine +ascended it with Eulah, and from its top branches got a view that +finally dispelled the doubts as to their position, and the identity +of the stream they had traced down. Before him, at about 3 miles +distant lay the mouth of the river, about 2 miles wide. Its course +could without difficulty be traced from where they were till it +debouched into the Gulf waters opposite a small island, which was +easily recognized as Barn Island, whilst to the North, Endeavour +Straits, and Prince of Wales Island could be distinctly seen. It was +now perfectly plain that the river they had followed was not the +Escape. They had therefore, been deceived a second time. It +received the very appropriate name of Deception, but has since, by +the direction of his Excellency Sir George Bowen, been charted, and +is now known by the name of the Jardine. Descending from his perch, +after half-an-hour spent in taking bearings by the compass to the +different points of interest, Mr. Jardine joined his brother, who at +once determined to return to camp 87, it being impossible to cross +where they were. Re-crossing the creek, they rejoined the party, +reaching the camp at sun-set, under a heavy downpour of rain. + +'February' 22. -- Although it was raining heavily with every +appearance of a continuance, the party started to return up the river +in excellent spirits. The Brothers were now certain that they should +have no difficulty in finding the Settlement on their next trip. +They were, however, very much puzzled as to where such a large stream +as the Escape was found to be, should rise. They now re-traced their +steps, and camped close to their last camp LXXXVII. Six miles. + +'February' 23. -- To-day was spent in killing and jerking a beast, +and preparing for the Leader's third start in search of the +Settlement. The rain poured down heavily, causing the river to rise +very fast. Another raft similar to that made at camp 83, had to be +constructed, a work of some time, for the only wood fit for making +the frame was dry nonda, which was scarce. The rain too, very much +impeded the drying of the beef, for which, as usual, a bark gunyah +had to be erected. Everything, however, was got well forward for the +important business of crossing the next morning. + +'February' 24. -- The horses, saddles, and rations were all crossed +in safety to-day, though not without difficulty. In swimming the +horses particular care had to be taken, for there was only one small +spot on the other side at which they could be landed. As explained +on the 5th, on the occasion of the second start, it requires a strong +swift swimmer to lead a horse across a stream, and in this the white +men, or at least, three of them, were much superior to the +black-boys, who, although all good swimmers, were much more efficient +in the service of the raft. This only illustrates the rule that most +white men can beat the aboriginal in swimming fast, whilst the latter +has superior endurance; but there is no doubt, that under the same +conditions of education and practice, the civilized white man is +superior to the savage in any physical function or exercise. The +rain poured down consistently during the whole of the day, and a cold +cutting wind drove the swimming party at intervals to the fires, +where, whilst toasting the outward, they solaced the inner man with a +decoction of Scrutton's, by courtesy called, soup, being an 'olla +podrida', or more properly "bouillon," of the bones, gristle, head, +and oddments of the lately-killed beast. This was always a stock +repast after each kill-day, and there is but little doubt but that +its "osmazome" contributed not a little, to the good health and heart +of the party. Almost every exploring party on short commons, records +some favourite cookery, some dish that their souls loved. In +McKinlay's journey, the dish most in vogue was a kind of "amorphous" +black-pudding, made of the carefully-saved blood of the bullock, +horse, or sheep, as the case might be, boiled with some fat, and +seasoned with a little condiment, which being of light carriage, can +always be saved for such high occasions. In the present instance, +the fat was always devoted to the greasing of the saddles, +pack-straps, etc., during the latter part of the journey, when +clothing was at a premium; of the explorers themselves, "more +aboriginum," who found that the protection it afforded them against +cold, wet, and mosquitoes, far outweighed any slight redolence, +which, after all, could only be offensive to anyone not equally +anointed. At night the Brothers camped on the north side of the +Deception, or Jardine, leaving the party again to await their report +and return, the cattle being in charge of Scrutton. + +'February' 25. -- There was an early start this morning, but the +little party did not make much headway that day, for after two miles +of boggy brushwood country their progress was suddenly arrested by a +sea of water, the overflow of a large creek, the outline of which +could be traced by a fringe of dark green foliaged trees. Some +fruitless attempts were made to cross it at different points. At the +narrowest part they could find, on running it down at a spot where +the channel was hemmed in by ridges on either side, it was still +half-a-mile wide, and running very strongly in the actual channel. +They therefore had to resign themselves to wait patiently till the +flood went down, apparently not a near prospect, for the rain still +continued to drizzle unceasingly. After hunting about for some time +they were fortunate enough to find a good dry camp when turning out, +they disposed themselves to await the subsidence of the water, with +what patience they might. The next two days were spent in hunting +for the pot, and exploring for a good crossing place. In the former +they met with no success, all they were able to find being a kind of +wild grape, about the size of a small marble. They are black and +sweet, and as Alexander Jardine describes, "very good to eat, but +they take all the skin off the tongue and lips!" On the evening of +the second day they had the pleasure of seeing that the creek was +slowly going down, giving promise that they might be able to cross it +on the morrow. + +'February' 28. -- This morning they had the satisfaction of seeing +that the creek had fallen sufficiently to enable them to cross, but +not without swimming. At the spot they chose for going over the +stream was about fifteen yards wide, but the current very rapid. The +horses were crossed in the usual manner, swimming with their saddles +on their backs, but the rations, etc., were passed over by a +different method, one which did credit to the projector. A kind of +flying suspension bridge was improvised, by which they were slung to +the other side, in a manner proving that necessity is the mother of +invention. By attaching one end of their light tent-line to the +branches of an over-hanging tree on the hither side, and the other +end to a butt on the opposite bank, the "swag" slid down by its own +gravity, and was safely crossed. Their 'impedimenta' were thus +safely transported to the opposite bank, the whole process occupying +about an hour. They were well re-paid for their long patience, for +immediately on attaining the other side, the country changed into +good sound well-grassed stringy-bark ridges, which continued +throughout the whole stage, with the exception of a few broad +tea-tree gullies. They encamped at about 10 miles. Poor old Eulah +experienced to-day, what he felt was a cruel disappointment. Just +before getting into camp he espied what he supposed to be a fresh +turkey's nest (the 'Talegalla Lathami'); jumping off his horse, he +eagerly commenced rooting it up, expecting to be rewarded by a fine +haul of eggs. These, as is the habit of that bird, were deposited in +a large mound formed of sticks, earth, and leaves. His +disappointment and disgust were equal, and his language forcible and +deep, on finding that he had been anticipated -- the big mound was +the abode of emptiness. The mystery was cleared up on going on a +little way, when they found a black's camp about two days old, where +the egg-chips shewed that the occupants had enjoyed Eulah's +anticipated feed, the piccaninnies probably amusing themselves +afterwards by filling up the nest to its original appearance. In the +evening, whilst Alexander Jardine, was preparing the frugal supper +(they generally ate their jerked meet raw, but on this occasion he +was cooking it for a change), the Leader and Eulah walked to the top +of a small sandy conical hill, about half-a-mile distant, when +climbing the highest tree, they could find, they were rewarded by a +fine view of Newcastle Bay, on the south-east of the bight, on which +they were now camped. They had also the great satisfaction of +finding that they had at last headed the Escape River. + +'March' 1. -- "A nasty wet morning." The trio started early, +thinking it quite possible that they might "pull up" something or +other belonging to the Settlement before night, but they kept their +thoughts to themselves. They had had so many disappointments that +they felt that to hazard a guess even, was a mistake. After +travelling over a great deal of low scrub and brushwood, which, +however, was better than boggy ground ("to be without one or the +other," says Alexander Jardine "would have been too much to expect") +during a heavy shower of rain, about three o'clock, whilst riding +over some low sandy ridges they suddenly came on to a number of +blacks, camped on the outside of a thick scrub, at a point where it +abutted on a small creek. The travellers immediately unslung their +carbines, very dubious however as to whether they would go off (for +they were all damp,) and prepared for the customary "set-to." As +hitherto, in all these encounters, they had always without any show +of hostility on their part, been at once attacked, they were +surprised to find the blacks, who were very numerous, bolt into the +scrub, with the exception of three who stood their ground, and +holding up their empty hands shewed that they were unarmed, dancing +and shouting vociferously. Eulah was the first to detect what they +said, and reining up called out "hold on, you hearim, that one bin +yabber English." the brothers halted and listened. Sure enough they +distinctly heard the savages shouting excitedly "Alico, Franco, +Dzoco, Johnnie, Toby, tobacco, and other English words. It was now +evident that they had met with friendly natives, who were acquainted +with the Settlement, so they went forward and spoke to them. The +blacks still continued to shout their shibboleth, pointing to +Somerset, which they called "Kaieeby." After taking a rough +inventory of the camp, without, however, finding anything that could +have come from the Settlement, they started two of the most +intelligent in front of them, making them understand by signs, that +they wanted to be guided by the shortest route to Cape York. This +they had no difficulty in doing, for they were by far the most +intelligent blacks they had met with. The whole party now started +forward, the sable guides piloting them over the best ground. In +about 7 miles they arrived at a shallow salt-water creek, that +empties itself into a northern inlet of Newcastle Bay. Here they met +with a large body of unarmed blacks, who after making a great many +signs, came up and presented them with some spears and wommerahs, +which they had concealed in the mangroves, possibly as an earnest of +peace. They also brought them a villainous compound, in some +dilly-bags, a mixture of mangrove-roots and berries, pounded up into +a pulp, of a yellowish color. Although it was very disagreeable to +the taste, the travellers eat of it in token of confidence in their +hosts, or rather to make them believe that they trusted them, for +they were too well acquainted with the aboriginal nature to trust +them in reality, and kept a wary though unobserved watch. The tide +being in, and it being very late when the salt-water creek was +reached, the Brothers determined to camp with their newly-made +friends at their main camp, and accordingly followed them for about +two miles, when they again hit the salt creek. Here three large +canoes were moored to the mangroves, the largest was about 28 feet +long, and 30 inches wide, cut out of the solid butt of some large +tree, and very neatly finished. The tent was pitched, but not made +much use of, for after dark the travellers left it and camped +separately, each keeping vigilant watch all night. The natives spent +it very differently, and, whether in honor of the whites, or in +anticipation of picking their bones (it might have been either) they +held high corroboree till about midnight, keeping up a fearful din, +in which two large drums formed a prominent part. The name of this +kind of drum is "Waropa" or "Burra Burra," and it is procured in +barter or war from the Islanders of Torres Straits, who frequently +visit the continent. It is neatly made of a solid piece of wood +scooped out, in shape like an elongated dice box. One end is covered +with the skin of a snake or iguana, the other being left open. When +this instrument is played upon by a muscular and excited "nigger," a +music results which seems to please him in proportion to its +intensity; keeping time with these, and aiding with their voices, +they kept up their wild dance varying the chant with the peculiar +b-r-r-r-r-r-r-oo, of the Australian savage (a sound made by +"blubbering" his thick lips over his closed teeth,) and giving to +their outstretched knees the nervous tremor peculiar to the +corroboree. But a corroboree, like the ball of civilized life must +have an end, and at length the tired dancers sought their several +lairs, leaving the whites to watch the watery moon and lurid stars, +and listen to the dull plashing of the tide through the mangroves, +whilst waiting for daylight. + +'March' 2. -- At daylight the party started forward, accompanied by a +strong detachment of "black guards," who were much disgusted when the +greater number of them were dismissed before they had proceeded far, +no doubt wishing and expecting to share in the "bacca" or "bissiker," +which would reward the pilots. Mr. Jardine selected the three they +had first met as guides, who turned out capital fellows. They +explained that to go straight they would have "mouro pia" much scrub, +and therefore led the way along the beach, carefully shewing the +horsmen the hardest places on the sands. In rounding one of the +rocky headlands, Eulah's horse fell with him, causing the greatest +amusement and merriment to the body-guard. To be laughed at by +Myalls was nearly too much for Eulah's equanimity, and could he have +had his own way he would probably have resented the insult. As it +was, his ire could only find vent in deeply muttered objurgations and +abuse. At about noon the party sighted the Settlement, and +involuntarily pulled up to gaze at the scattered and insignificant +buildings they had so long and ardently desired to see and struggled +to reach, hardly realizing that the goal was at last attained; when +they again moved forward theguides set up an admonitary yell, which +had the effect of bringing Mr. Jardine and their brother John to the +door. For a considerable time before the arrival of the overland +party, Mr. Jardine had not been without some uneasiness for the +success and safety of the expedition. The time for their probable +arrival had long elapsed. A report had reached him by the +"Salamander" from Rockingham Bay, that the party were on the Lynd, +unable to move forward for want of water, and that their provision +was exhausted, and finally the wet season had set in. To facilitate +their endeavours in finding the Settlement (a work of more than +ordinary difficulty, arising from the intricacy of the rivers and +scrubby nature of the country, at the apex of the Cape York +peninsula,) Mr. Jardine had cut a marked tree line for 30 miles in a +south-westerly direction, meeting a similarly marked line running +east and west from the head of the Kennedy to the west or Gulf Coast, +a distance of about 10 miles. On the latter and on either side of +the longitudinal line, trees were marked at intervals, with +instructions for their course, so that the party hitting the east and +west line would be guided to the junction of the first one leading +into the Settlement. The east and west line, it has been seen they +overran, the rapid tropical growth of the scrub having so far +obliterated it as to make it difficult to notice, or find, even if +sought for. Yet through any depression that might naturally be +induced by the delay, whatever his fears might have been for the +success of the expedition, he felt none for the safety of his sons, +well knowing and relying on their dauntless pluck, energy, and +fitness for the work. His parting injunction to them had been, that +whatever might betide, 'they should keep together'. He knew that he +would not be disobeyed, and felt firm in the faith that, should the +party by misfortune be reduced to their own two selves, with only +their tomahawks in their hands, they would make their way to him. +Thus, firmly reliant on the qualities of his boys, he waited with +patience, and his faith was well rewarded. On the morning of the 2nd +of March, Mr. Jardine being employed in some matters about the house, +during an "evendown" pour of rain, was disturbed by a loud shouting, +and looking out saw a number of blacks running up to the place. +Imagining that the Settlement was about to receive another attack, +(for the little community had already had to repulse more than one,) +he seized his gun, always in readiness for an "alerte" and rushed +out. Instead, however, of the expected enemy, he had the pleasure of +seeing his long-looked-for sons, surrounded and escorted by their +sable guides. For a long time previous, the natives who visited the +Settlement had been made to understand that Mr. Jardine expected his +sons with horses and cattle, and had been familiarized with their +names, "Franco" "Alico" as also with others such as "Somerset," "Cape +York," "Salamander," and "Toby," (Mr. Jardine's well-known retreiver) +the intention being that these should act as pass words when they met +the party, a wise precaution, which, as it has been seen, probably +prevented a collision. Thus, on nearing the Settlement the blacks +set up the shouts that had alarmed him, screaming out his name Joko, +Franco, Alicko, and such was the eagerness of each to prove that he +(smiting himself on the breast) was "Kotaiga" or friend, pointing at +the same time to the Brothers, as a witness of their truth, that it +was with some difficulty that the Father could reach his sons to +greet and welcome them. But for the horses they bestrode, even a +father's eye might have failed to distinguish them from the blacks by +whom they were surrounded. Six months of exposure to all weathers +had tanned their skins, and so reduced their wardrobe, as to make +their appearance primitive in the extreme, their heads being covered +with a cap of emu feathers, and their feet cased in green hide +mocassins. The rest of their costume was 'a l'ecossaise,' their +pantaloons being reduced to the waist-bands and pockets, the legs +having for a long time been matters of remembrance only. However, +they were hearty and well, in high spirits, and in good case. During +the hubbub caused by the tumultuous demonstrativeness of the natives, +an amusing episode occurred, which is worthy of record. The +attendant of Mrs. McClintock, a fine strapping girl from the Emerald +Isle, whose good humour and light-heartedness in the discomforts of a +new Settlement had earned her the name of cheerful Ellen, hearing the +tumult outside, and seeing Mr. Jardine rush out gun in hand, imagined +also that they were about to have another attack. Seizing her +mistress in her arms, with more kindness than ceremony, she bore her +away to her own room, where, having deposited her burden, she turned +the key on her, saying, "that was no place for her whilst fighting +was going on." Nor was it until she was well assured that there had +been a false alarm that the kind-hearted wench released her mistress +from durance. + +It must be left to the imagination of the reader to realize the +swelling feelings of joy and pride with which the Father grasped the +hands of his gallant sons. After a separation of more than ten +months, his boys had found their way to him at the extremity of the +Australian Continent, by a journey of over 1600 miles, whose +difficulties, hardships, dangers, and escapes, have seldom been +parallelled, and never been surpassed in the whole annals of +exploration. Had they, like poor Lichhardt, Kennedy, or Burke and +Wills, perished in the attempt, they would have been honored as +heroes, and a tablet or monument would been handed down their names +to posterity. As it was, thanks to a kind Providence, they were +living heroes, who had sturdily accomplished their work, and brought +their companions through without hurt or casualty. The modesty which +is ever the attribute of true merit, will probably cause their cheeks +to tinge in finding their exploits thus eulogized, but assuredly it +is no exaggeration of praise to say, that they have won for +themselves a lasting and honorable name in the records of Australian +Exploration. + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +Chose Site for Station -- Native Method of Using Tobacco -- Return +for the Cattle -- The Lakes -- Reach the Camp -- Another Horse Dead +-- The Whole Party Cross the Jardine -- Raft Upset -- Cargo Saved -- +Deserted by Guides -- Final Start for Settlement -- Another Horse +Abandoned -- Horses Knocked Up -- Cattle Missing -- Choppagynya -- +Reach Vallack Point -- Conclusion. + +On the afternoon of their arrival in Somerset, the Brothers, after a +"slight" luncheon, in which Mr. Jardine's preserved vegetables +received very particular attention, manned the whale-boat belonging +to the Settlement, and pulled over the Straits to Albany Island to +get fresh horses. Two were got over, but night coming on, the +crossing of the rest was deferred until the next day. The Strait is +three-quarters-of-a-mile wide, which, with a current running upwards +of five knots an hour, makes it an exhausting swim even for a strong +horse. The next morning three more horses were crossed. The five +expedition horses which these re-placed were in a miserable +condition. Three of them had given in on the preceding day, two +miles from the township, and had to be left behind for the time. +With the fresh horses the Brothers were enabled to take a look about +them, and select a site for the formation of a cattle station. A +convenient spot was chosen at Vallack Point, about three miles from +Somerset, to which it now only remained for them to fetch up their +companions and the cattle. Two days were spent in recruiting the +horses, the explorers themselves, probably, enjoying the "dolce far +niente" and change of diet. The black guides were not forgotten, and +received their reward of biscuit and tobacco. The manner in which +they use this latter is curious, and worthy of notice. Not satisfied +with the ordinary "cutty" of the whites, they inhale it in volumes +through a bamboo cane. The effect is a profound stupefaction, which +appears to be their acme of enjoyment. On the morning of the 5th, +taking with them their younger brother, John Jardine, and their two +guides, Harricome and Monuwah, and the five fresh horses, in addition +to their own, the Brothers started to return to the cattle party, who +were anxiously awaiting their return on the banks of the flooded +Jardine. The black pilots were made to understand where the camp +was, and promised to take them by a good road. The first stage was +to the Saltwater Creek, on which they had camped with the tribe, +which they reached in about 17 miles, passing on the way, three fine +lakes, Wetura, Baronto, and "Chappagynyah," at two, four, and eight +miles from Somerset. The road was a fair one for the cattle, keeping +along the line marked by Mr. Jardine the preceding year as before +mentioned, and only presented a few light belts of scrub to go +through. They were likewise enabled to choose a better crossing of +the Saltwater Creek, where the swamps join and form a defined +channel. The last two miles were very boggy, even the fresh and +well-conditioned horses getting stuck occasionally. + +'March' 6. -- The camp was reached in the evening of to-day, at the +end of about 22 miles, but the black pilots were of very little use, +as shortly after starting they fairly got out of their latitude, and +were obliged to resign the lead to the Brothers, who hit the river a +little before dark, nearly opposite the camp. They found it about +the same height as when first crossed, but it had been considerably +higher during their absence. It being too late to cross, the party +camped on their own side, and Messrs. Harricome and Monuwah swam over +to see the new strangers and get a supply of beef. They returned +with nearly a shoulder of a good sized steer, which entirely +disappeared before morning, the whole night being devoted to feeding. +The quantity of meat that a hungry native can consume is something +astounding, but in this case beat anything that any of the whole +party had ever seen. The natural result was a semi-torpor and a +perfectly visible distention. + +'March' 7. -- This morning the Brothers crossed over to the camp, +when they had the satisfaction of finding, on counting the cattle, +that a number were away, and when the horses were tried, two of them +were found missing, besides one that had died during their absence, +"Lady Scott." They were immediately sent for, and the remainder of +the party employed in preparing for the crossing, and killing a +beast. A fresh raft was made with the hide capable of carrying 400 +lbs. weight. The two Somerset blacks evinced a great deal of +surprise at sight of the cattle, and expressed it by chirping and +making various curious noises with their tongues and mouths. +Accustomed chiefly to fish, herbs, and roots, the succulent beef had +charms which outweighed surprise, and another night was spent in +feasting on the "oddments" of the fresh killed beef. + +'March' 8. -- The missing cattle and horses were brought in with the +exception of three, which prevented the party crossing to-day, +although all was now in readiness. The river was still 200 yards +wide, and running strongly, so that it was expedient to cross the +whole together. + +'March' 9. -- The three missing cattle not having been found, the +crossing operations were commenced at mid-day. The width and +appearance of the river made it difficult to make the cattle face it, +but they were all safely crossed after a little time, with the +exception of one, which broke away, and could not be recovered. The +pack-horses were then put over, which was easily accomplished, and it +then only remained to cross the packs and baggage. The raft answered +admirably, and everything was ferried over in safety, till the last +cargo, when a little adventure occurred, which nearly cost the life +of one of the party. Cowderoy, being unable to swim, had to be taken +across holding on to the raft, and was, therefore, left to the last; +all went well with him until within 30 yards of the bank, when, +whether from trepidation, induced by visions of alligators (with +which the river indeed abounds), or from an attempt to strike out +independently, he "succeeded" in upsetting and sinking the raft, and +was with some difficulty got to the shore "quitte pour la peur." In +truth it requires some nerve for a man who can't swim to cross a wide +and rapid river. Without a confiding trust in the means adopted for +his transport, a catastrophe is not an unlikely result. The writer +has known instances of persons crossing broad rivers supported by a +spear held between two blacks, by holding on to a bullock's tail, and +even sitting on a horse's back, but in every case the success of the +attempt depends almost entirely on the coolness of the individual, +and even with this essential, he has known some fatal cases, so that +Cowderoy might congratulate himself on his safe transit. The packs, +etc., which formed the last cargo, were recovered after some time, +the distance from the shore being slight, and Cowderoy soon recovered +his accustomed good humor. By four o'clock everything had been +crossed in safety, save the four beasts before mentioned; but on +camping for the night it was found that the guides had decamped, +their unwonted high feeding, having, no doubt, induced an +indisposition to work, a result not confined to blacks alone. + +'March' 10. -- This morning the "Cowal," or watercourse, which had +detained the Brothers on their first trip, had to be swum over, and +here poor Ginger, one of the horses, got hopelessly bogged, and +though got out and put on his legs with saplings, was too exhausted +to go on,and had to be abandoned. The distance accomplished was 11 +miles. + +'March' 11. -- The line marked by Mr. Jardine was followed to-day. A +scrub occurred on a creek called Wommerah Creek, through which it +took two hours to drive the cattle. Only 10 miles were made, and the +camp was pitched at about 4 miles from the mouth of the creek where +the corroboree was held. Three horses were knocked up during the +day, which prevented their gotting as far as intended. + +'March' 12. -- On counting the cattle it was found that 30 head had +been dropped in coming through the scrub at Wommerah Creek. Two of +the black-boys were sent after them, and the Brothers went out to +find a crossing-place over Ranura Creek, (their last camp in +Somerset.) Here they met the same tribe, (known as Wognie's,) and +bartered "bacca" and "bissika," against "moro wappi," or fish, with +which the camp was plentifully supplied in the evening. The cattle +were recovered all but five. The country is described as being +composed of ridges of white and red sand, intersected by swamps of +tea-tree, pandanus, and banksia, the crest of the ridges being +generally surmounted by a patch of scrub. The timber, bloodwood, +mahogany, stringy-bark, and nonda. + +'March' 13. -- A late start was made to-day, for some of the horses +were away. The camp was formed on the banks of the lake +before-mentioned, 8 miles from Somerset, Chappagynyah, which is +described as teeming with crocodiles. tThe next day the party +reached their final resting place, probably not without some +exhiliration in feeling that their journey was over. They were met +at Baronto, by Mr. Jardine, who had ridden out from Somerset for the +purpose. The camp was established at Vallack Point, where the +wearied horses and cattle at length found rest, whilst their drivers +were able to indulge in the unwonted luxuries of regular feeding and +uninterrupted sleep: luxuries which few but those who have +experienced hunger and broken rest can fully appreciate. They had +been on the road for 5 months, travelled over 1600 miles, the last +250 of which were, as we have seen, performed on foot, and by most of +the party barefooted, whilst for the last four weeks their food had +consisted chiefly of jerked veal, fish without salt, and the wild +fruits and herbs they might find in the bush. In addition to the +distance travelled over by the whole party, and over which the cattle +were driven, the Brothers traversed more than 1200 miles in their +exploratory trips ahead, looking for the lost horses, etc. Alexander +Jardine's journey down the Einasleih alone amounted to little less +than 300. It may be imagined, therefore, that the return to the +habits and fare of civilized life must have been an agreeable change. + +After an interval employed by the Brothers in forming a station at +Vallack Point, they returned with their father to Brisbane, in H.M.S. +Salamander, leaving their younger brother, John, in charge of the +newly-formed station, where the cattle were doing well. Mr. +Richardson left in the same vessel, and on arriving in Brisbane +immediately set to work to chart the route. Having every facility at +hand in the office of the Surveyor-General, the error of the river +Lynd was rectified, and a map compiled, shewing the route, from which +that now presented to the reader has been reduced. A glance at it +will shew that a large tract of unexplored country exists between the +track of the Jardines and that of Kennedy, which affords ample scope +for, and may possibly repay future explorations. Already stock is on +the road to occupy country on the lower Einasleih, and it is not +improbable that before long the rich valley of the Archer will add +its share to the pastoral wealth of Queensland. + +FINIS. + + +*** + + +[Plate: SOMERSET CAPE YORK. Lithograph.] + + +APPENDIX + +THE MELALEUCA ('Tea-tree Gum M. Leucodendron.') + +This tree, of which there are several varieties, is very common to +Northern Australia; the drooping kind ('Melaleuca Leucodendron'), +occupying the beds and margins of the rivers, where its long pendant +branches weeps the stream, as does the graceful willow of Europe. +Its bark is in thin paper-like layers, whilst its leaves are like +that of the gum, but thinner and straighter. It is remarkable for +containing an extraordinary quantity of brackish water, which pours +out in a torrent, when the bark is cut through, to the extent of from +a quart to a gallon. Another variety is found chiefly in flat sandy +country and shallow swamps. It is much smaller than that of the +rivers, and the leaves broader, stiff, and upright, its blossoms +nearly the same. It is indifferently called weeping gum, tea-tree +gum, and tea-tree, although it is in no way allied to the latter. It +is with the upright kind that the arid levels of the Staaten are +chiefly timbered. + + +GARRAWAN. + +This scrub, one of the numerous family of accacia, which together +with the pandanus, gave the travellers so much annoyance on their +journey, occupies a large extent of country about the Richardson +range, from the Batavia to Cape York. It much resembles, and is +probably identical with that which grows in the neighbourhood of +Sydney, to the appearance of which, indeed, that part of the +Peninsula closely resembles. + + +FLOCK PIGEON OF THE GULF ('Phaps Histrionica.') + +These beautiful pigeons which are alluded to by Leichhardt, are at +certain seasons found in immense flocks in the plain country about +the Gulf of Carpentaria. Their range is wide, as in 1846 they +appeared in flocks of countless multitudes on the Murrimbidgee River, +N.S.W., probably driven from their usual regions by drought. They +are described and figured in Mr. Gould's great work on the Australian +birds. + + +THE EINASLEIH. + +This river was erroneously supposed by its first settlers to be the +Lynd of Leichhardt. That such was not the case, was proved by +Alexander Jardine, who traced it down for 180 miles from Carpentaria +Downs, when he turned back, within about a day's stage of its +junction with the Gilbert, fully satisfied that it could not be the +Lynd. Since then it has, I believe, been traced into the Gilbert, +and thence to the Gulf. Its importance would lead to the supposition +that it was the principal branch of the Gilbert. There is an +excellent cattle country on the lower part, as described in the text +which has probably ere this been occupied by our pioneers. + + +THE NONDA ('Parinarium Nonda. F. Mueller.') + +This tree so named by Leichhardt's black-boys (described in Bentham's +'Flora Australiensis'), is very abundant north of the Einasleih, +which is possibly the extreme latitude of its zone south. It formed +an important accession to the food of the party, and it is highly +probable that their good health may be attributable to the quantity +of fruit, of which this was the principal, which they were able to +procure, there being no case of scurvy during the journey, a +distemper frequently engendering in settled districts, when there is +no possibility of varying the diet with vegetables. The foliage of +the tree is described as of a bright green, the fruit very abundant, +and much eaten by the natives. It is of about the size and +appearance of a yellow egg plum, and in taste like a mealy potatoe, +with, however, a trace of that astringency so common to Australian +wild fruits. The wood is well adapted for building purposes. + + +BURDEKIN DUCK ('Tadorna Raja'). + +This beautiful species of shelldrake, though not numerous, has a wide +range, extending from the richmond river to Cape York. It frequents +the more open flats at the mouths of rivers and creeks. + + +THE NATIVE BEE. + +This little insect (called Wirotheree in the Wellington dialect), the +invasion of whose hoards so frequently added to the store of the +travellers, and no doubt assisted largely in maintaining their +health, is very different from the European bee, being in size and +appearance like the common house-fly. It deposits its honey in trees +and logs, without any regular comb, as in the case of the former. +These deposits are familiarly known in the colony as "sugar bags," +(sugar bag meaning, aboriginice, anything sweet), and require some +experience and proficiency to detect and secure the aperture by which +the bees enter the trees, being undistinguishable to an unpractised +eye. The quantity of honey is sometimes very large, amounting to +several quarts. Enough was found on one occasion to more than +satisfy the whole party. Its flavor differs from that of European +honey almost as much as the bee does in appearance, being more +aromatic than the latter: it is also less crystalline. As the +celebrated "Narbonne honey" derives its excellence from the bees +feeding on the wild thyme of the south of France, so does the +Australian honey derive its superior flavour from the aromatic +flowers and shrubs on which the Wirotheree feeds, and which makes it +preferred by many to the European. + + +THE APPLE-GUM ('Angophora?') + +I have been at some pains to discover to what species this tree +belongs, but further than that it is one of the almost universal +family of the Eucalypti, have not been able to identify it. As +mentioned in the text, it was found very valuable for forging +purposes by the Brothers, who were able to bring their horse-shoes +almost to a white heat by using it. It is like box in appearance, +and very hard. + + +TERRY'S BREECH-LOADERS. + +This formidable weapon can hardly receive too high a commendation, +and to its telling efficiency is probably attributable the absence of +any casualty to the party in their many encounters with the savages. +Not only for its long range is it valuable, but for its superior +certainty in damp or wet weather, its charge remaining uninjured +after days and weeks of interval, and even after immersion in water, +making it available when an ordinary piece would be useless. The +effect of the conical bullet too is much more sure and complete, +which, when arms 'must' be resorted to, is of great importance. + + +THE MARAMIE. + +This shell-fish is to be found in almost all the Australian rivers +and lagoons. It is in size and appearance very much like the little +cray-fish or "Ecrevisses" which usually garnish the "Vol-au-vent" of +Parisian cookery, and of very delicate flavor. + + +SPINIGEX, Spear Grass, Needle Grass, or "Saucy Jack" ('Triodia Irritans.') + +This grass, so well known to all Australian travellers, is a certain +indication of a sandy sterile country. The spinifex found in the +Mally scrubs of the south attains a great size, generally assuming +the appearance of a large tuft or bush from one to two feet in +diameter, and twelve to eighteen inches high. When old, its sharp +points, like those of so many immense darning needles set on end at +different angles, are especially annoying to horses, who never touch +it as food, except when forced by starvation. In Northern Queensland +the present species is found abundantly from Peak Downs to Cape York. + + +FIVE CORNERS ('Stypelia?') + +This fruit is well known and very common in the neighbourhood of +Sydney, and was found in the scrubby region about the Richardson +Range, which, as before mentioned, is of similar character to that +description of country. It does not, so far as I am aware, exist in +any other part of Queensland. + + +THE NATIVE PLUM ('Owenia.') + +This tree, of which there are several species, ('Owenia Cerasifera' +and 'Owenia Vanessa' being most common in Queensland), is found along +the whole of the east coast, as far south as the Burnett, and is one +of the handsomest of Australian forest trees. Its purple fruit has a +pleasant acid flavor, and is probably a good anti-scorbutic. It is +best eaten after having been buried in the ground for a few days, as +is the custom of the natives. The stone is peculiar, having much the +shape of a fluted pudding basin. The timber is handsomely grained +and is of durable quality. + +On the subjects of the fruits, edible plants, and roots of +Queensland, Mr. Anthelme Thozet, of Rockhampton, whose name is well +and deservedly known to Botanists, has been at great pains to prepare +for the approaching Exhibition at Paris, a classified table of all +that are known as consumed by the natives raw and prepared, and to +his enthusiastic attention to the subject, we are indebted for the +possession of a large and important list, a knowledge of which would +enable travellers in the wilds of the colony to support themselves +from their natural productions alone, in cases where their provision +was exhausted. + + +THE CALAMUS ('Calamus Australis.) + +This plant belongs to a genuis of palms, the different species of +which yield the rattan canes of commerce. Its form in the scrubs of +the Cape York Peninsula is long and creeping, forming a net work of +vines very formidable to progress. + + +THE PITCHER PLANT ('Nepenthes Kennedyana.') + +This interesting plant was first noticed to the north of the Batavia +River, and is common to the swamps of the peninsula. It has been +described and named in honor of the unfortunate Kennedy, who first +noticed it. + + +THE FERGUSON OR STAATEN. + +This stream, whose arid banks Mr. Jardine was forced to trace to the +sea, in consequence of the sterility and waterless character of the +levels to the northward, is neverthless of some importance. Like +most of the northern rivers, it is a torrent stream, whose bed is +insufficient to carry off its waters during the flooded season, +causing the formation of lagoons, back-waters, and ana-branches, and +yet in the dry months, containing only a thread of water trickling +along a waste of sand, sometimes three or four hundred yards wide, +and at intervals loosing itself and running under the surface. +Should the northern branch which was seen to join amongst the +ana-branches near its debouchure prove to be the larger stream, that +followed by the party might still retain the name of "the Ferguson," +given to it by the Brothers, in honor of the governor of Queensland. +It receives Cockburn Creek, one of importance, which, just before +joining it, receives the waters of another large creek from the +south, which was supposed to be Byerley Creek, but this as mentioned +in the text, is unlikely, for when the Brothers were in quest of the +Lynd (which they never reached at all) they left Byerley Creek +trending to the south, at a point considerably to the west of the +longitude of that influence. It is more probable, therefore, that +Byerley Creek is a tributary of either the Einasleih or Gilbert, or +that it is an independant stream altogether, running into the Gulf +between the Gilbert and Staaten rivers. + +It appears unlikely also that any practicable route for stock will be +discovered between the coast which Mr. Jardine skirted, and the heads +of the rivers Staaten, Lynd, Mitchell, and Batavia. The interval +between Kennedy's track and that of the Brothers has yet to be +explored, when the best line will probably be found nearer to the +former than the latter, for the country between the Staaten and +Mitchell near their sources has been proven to be a barren and +waterless waste, the good country only commencing beyond the +Mitchell, and forming the valley of the Archer, but terminating about +the Coen. + + +FATE OF THE MULE. + +The fate of the unfortunate mule, whose loss was amongst the most +severely felt of the journey, has come to light in rather an +interesting manner. In a late letter from Cape York, Mr. Frank +Jardine mentions that some natives had visited the Settlement at +Somerset, amongst whom were seen some of the articles carried in the +mule's pack bags. On questioning them he found that they were +familiar with all the incidents of the journey, many of which they +described minutely. The mule had been found dead, having shared the +fate of Lucifer and Deceiver, and perished from thirst, and his packs +of course ransacked. They had watched the formation of the Cache, +when the party abandoned the heaviest articles of the equipment, and +in like manner ransacked it. These blacks must have travelled nearly +500 miles, for the Staaten is nearly 450 miles in a straight line +from Somerset, and were probably amongst those who dogged the steps +of the party so perseveringly to within 100 miles of Cape York, +frequently attacking it as described. From their accounts it appears +that the expedition owed much of its safety to their horses, of which +the blacks stood in great dread. They described minutely the +disasters of the poison camp on the Batavia, particularising the fact +of Frank Jardine having shot one of the poisoned horses, his +favourite, with his revolver, their start on foot, and other things. + From this is would appear that they closely watched and hung on to +the steps of the party, though only occasionally daring to attack +them; and proves that but for the unceasing and untiring vigilence of +the Brothers, and their prompt action when attacked, the party would +in all probability have been destroyed piece meal. The utter +faithlessness, treachery, and savage nature of the northern natives +is shown by their having twice attempted to surprise the settlement +whilst Mr. Jardine, senior, was resident there, although they had +been treated with every kindness from the first. In these encounters +two of the marines were wounded, one of whom has since died from the +effects, whilst others had narrow escapes, John Jardine, junr. having +had a four-pronged spear whistle within two inches of his neck. +Since then they have not ceased to molest the cattle, and in an +encounter they wounded Mr. Scrutton. They have utilized their +intercourse with the whites so far as to improve the quality of their +spears by tipping them with iron, a piece of fencing wire, 18 inches +long, having been found on one taken from them on a late occasion. +In his last letter Frank Jardine mentions an encounter with a +"friendly" native detected in the act of spearing cattle, in which he +had a narrow escape of losing his life, and states that, despite +their professions of friendship, they are always on the watch for +mischief. It is evident therefore, that no terms can safely be held +with a race who know no law but their own cowardly impulse of evil, +and that an active and watchful force of bushmen well acquainted with +savage warfare is necessary to secure the safety of the young +settlement. For a description of the habits and the character of the +Australian and Papuan races, which people the Peninsula and the +adjacent islands of Torres Straits, the reader is referred to the +interesting narrative of the voyage of the Rattlesnake, by Mr. John +McGillivray, in which the subject is ably and exhaustively treated, +and which leaves but little to add by succeeding writers. + + +THE MIDAMO. + +The "villanous compound, a mixture of mangrove roots and berries," +which was presented to the explorers by the friendly natives as a +peace-offering on first meeting them near Somerset, was probably what +is described as the "Midamo" in Mr. Anthelme Thozets' valuable +pamphlet already alluded to above on "the roots, tubers, bulbs, and +fruits used as vegetable food by the aboriginals of Northern +Queensland." The midamo is made by baking the root of the common +mangrove ('Avicennia Tomentosa'), which is called Egaie by the tribes +of Cleveland Bay, and Tagon-Tagon by those of Rockhampton. Its +preparation is described at page 13. + + +_____________ + +SOMERSET. + +A description of the settlement at Port Albany, Cape York, at the +time of the arrival of the Brothers has been carefully drawn up in +the shape of a report to the Colonial Secretary of Queenslandby Mr. +Jardine. It is so full and interesting that I cannot do better than +publish it in extenso. It first appeared in the 'Queensland Daily +Guardian' of 24th June, 1865. A letter from Mr. Jardine to Sir +George Bowen, reporting the arrival of the sons, and epitomising the +events of the journey, together with the report of Dr. Haran, R.N., +Surgeon in charge of the detachment of Royal Marines, on the climate +of Cape York, showing its great salubrity, are also added: -- + +PORT ALBANY. + +Somerset, March 1st, 1865. + +Sir, -- My former reports to you having been, to a certain extent, +necessarily taken up with matters of detail in reference to the +formation of the new settlement of Somerset, and that object being +now in such a state of completion as to enable me to say that it is +fairly established, so far as the comfort and safety of the present +residents are concerned, I now do myself the honor to lay before you +the result of such general observations as I have been able to make +on what may be termed general matters of interest. + +2. The portion of the country to which my observations will +particularly apply is that which, I think, may correctly be termed +the "York Peninsula proper," and comprises the land lying to the +northward of a line drawn from the estuary of the Kennedy River, at +the head of Newcastle Bay, to the opposite or north-west coast. The +general course of the Kennedy River runs in this line, and from the +head of the tideway to the north-west coast the breadth of land does +not exceed six miles. The mouth of the river falling into the sea a +short distance to the southward of Barn Island will be nearly met by +the western extremity of this line. + +3. The land on the neck thus formed presents singular features. +There is no defined or visible water shed; a succession of low +irregular ridges, divided by swampy flats, extends from coast to +coast, and the sources of the streams running into either overlap in +a most puzzling manner. The large ant-hills which are spread over +the whole of this country may be taken as sure indicators of the +nature of the soils; on the ridges a reddish sandy loam, intermixed +with iron-stone gravel, prevails; on the flats a thin layer of +decomposed vegetable matter overlays a white sand, bearing +'Melaleuca' and 'Pandanus', with a heavy undergrowth of a plant much +resembling tall heath. Nearly every flat has its stream of clear +water; the elegant "pitcher" plant grows abundantly on the margins. +The timber is poor and stunted, chiefly bloodwood and 'grevillea'; +and the grass is coarse and wiry. + +4. Leaving this neck of barren and uninteresting country, the land +to the northward rises, and a distinct division or spine is formed, +ending in Cape York. From it, on either side, spurs run down to the +coast, frequently ending in abrupt precipices overhanging the sea; in +other places gradually declining to the narrow belt of flat land +which occasionally borders the shore. The formation is, I may say, +entirely sandstone, overlaid in many places by a layer of lava-like +ironstone. Porphyry occurs occasionally in large masses, split and +standing erect in large columns, at a distance resembling basalt. +The sandstone is of the coarsest quality, almost a conglomerate, and +is soft and friable; exposure to the air might probably harden it if +quarried, when it would be available for rough building. The ridges, +with very few exceptions, are topped with large blocks of ferruginous +sandstone, irregularly cast about, and are covered with a thick +scrub, laced and woven together with a variety of vines and climbers, +while the small valleys intervening bear a strong growth of tall +grass, through which numerous creeping plants twine in all +directions, some of them bearing beautiful flowers. Among them I may +particularise two species of 'Ipomea', which I believe to be +undescribed, and a vine-like plant, bearing clusters of fruit much +resembling in appearance black Hambro Grapes, wholesome and pleasant +to the taste. The scrubs are formed of an immense variety of trees +and shrubs, far too numerous for me toname, were I able to do so. +Some of them have fine foliage, and bear handsome flowers and +agreeably tasted fruit, and would form most ornamental additions to +our southern gardens and pleasure grounds. Several species of the +numerous climbing plants produce a fine and strong fibre, from which +the natives make their fishing lines. Some fine varieties of palm +are found on the moister lands near the creeks, two especially +elegant, a 'Seaforthia' and a 'Caryota'. A wild banana, with small +but good fruit, is also found in such localities. On the open +grounds the bloodwood, Moreton Bay ash, and a strong growing acacia +are the principal trees. Timber for building is scarce, and of very +indifferent quality. The iron-bark and pine are unknown here. + +5. The soil on these grounds is a reddish loam, more or less sandy, +and thinly covered with a coarse ironstone gravel. Much of the +ironstone has a strong magnetic property -- so much so as to suspend +a needle; and it was found a great inconvenience by Mr. Surveyor +Wilson, from its action on the instruments. As the land descends, +the soil becomes more sandy. Near the creek patches with a +considerable mixture of vegetable loam are found, which would be +suitable for the growth of vegetables, bananas, etc. The grass is +generally long and coarse, and soon after the rainy season ceases +becomes, under the influence of the strong south-east winds, withered +and dry. Horses and cattle keep their condition fairly, but sheep do +not thrive; the country is quite unsuited to them. Goats may be kept +with advantage; and pigs find an abundant supply of food in the +scrubs and swamps. + +6. In the Zoology of the district, the careful researches of Mr. +M'Gillivray -- the naturalist attached to H.M.'s surveying ship +Rattlesnake -- have left little room for the discovery of many +positive novelties. I have, however, been able to note many +interesting facts in the economy and habits of the birds, especially +such as relate to their migration. Several of the species found here +are season visitors of New South Wales, and it is interesting to +compare the times of their arrival and departure in this place with +those in the southern colony. + +7. The animals afford small variety. The dingo, or native dog, four +species of the smaller kangaroos, and two other marsupials are found. +One, an elegant little squirrel-like opossum, striped lengthways with +black and white, I believe to be new. + +8. The birds are more plentiful. My collection comprises more than +one hundred species of land birds, many of them remarkable for beauty +of plumage, and peculiarity of form, structure, and habit. Among +them the most remarkable are the great black macaw, ('Microglossus +Atterrimus') the magnificent rifle bird, ('Ptiloris Magnifica') and +the rare and beautiful wood kingfisher, ('Tan Ts-ptera Sylvia'). The +latter first made its appearance here on the 30th of November last. +On the afternoon and night of the 28th and the 29th of that month +there was a heavy storm of rain, with wind from the north-east, and +the next morning the bush along the shore was ringing with the cries +of the new arrivals. To my constant enquiries of the blacks for this +bird, I was always told by them that when the wind and rain came from +the north-west the birds would come, and their prediction was +verified to the letter. They also say the birds come from "Dowdui" +(New Guinea). I think this probable, as several of the birds +described by the French naturalist, M. Lesson, as found by him in New +Guinea have also appeared here for the breeding season. The +'Megapodius Tumulus' is also worthy of mention, on account of the +surprising structure of its nest. The mound resembles, and is +composed of the same materials as that of the brush turkey +('Talegulla'), but is very much larger in size. Some that I have +measured are upwards of thirty (30) feet in diameter at the base, and +rise at the natural angle to a height of fifteen (15) feet or more. +It is wonderful how birds so comparitively diminutive can accumulate +so large a pile. These birds live in pairs, and several pairs use +the same mound. The eggs are deposited at a depth of from one to +three feet; the heat at that depth is very great, more than the hand +can bear for any length of time. I cannot say whether the young, +when released from the mounds, are tended by the parents; they, +however, return and roost in the mounds at night. The flesh of the +'Megapodius' is dark and flavorless, being a mass of hard muscle and +sinew. birds, which may be called game, are not numerous. The brush +turkey ('Talegalla'), the 'Megapodius', several species of pigeon, +with a few ducks and quail, comprise the whole. + +9. -- Fish are in abundance, and in great varieties; some of them of +strange form and singular brilliancy of coloring. The grey mullet, +the bream -- a fish much resembling in general appearance the English +pike -- and several others, are excellent eating. + +10. -- Three species of turtle are plentiful during the season, that +is, the period when they approach the shores to deposit their eggs, +the green, the hawksbill, and another species, which grow to a much +larger size than either of the above. The natives take large numbers +of the former; indeed, from the month of November till February +turtle forms their principal food. The green turtle are taken in the +water by the blacks, who display great address in "turning" them; +they are approached when asleep on the surface; the black slips +gently from his canoe and disappears under water, and rising beneath +the animal, by a sudden effort turns it on its back, and by a strong +wrench to the fore flipper disables it from swimming. The fisherman +is assisted by his companions in the canoe, and a line is secured to +the turtle. This is hazardous sport, and deep wounds are frequently +inflicted by the sharp edges of the shells, which in the female +turtle are very sharp. A singular mode of taking the hawksbill +turtle is followed by the natives here. This custom, though said to +be known so long back as the time of the discovery of America by +Columbus, is so strangely interesting that I will give a short +account of it, as I have seen it practised. A species of sucking +fish ('Remora') is used. On the occasion to which I allude two of +these were caught by the blacks in the small pools in a coral reef, +care being taken 'not to injure them'. They were laid in the bottom +of the canoe, and covered over with wet sea weed -- a strong fishing +line having been previously fastened to the tail of each. Four men +went in the canoe; one steering with a paddle in the stern, one +paddling on either side, and one in the fore-part looking out for the +turtle and attending to the fishing lines, while I sat on a sort of +stage fixed midship supported by the outrigger poles. The day was +very calm and warm, and the canoe was allowed to drift with the +current, which runs very strong on these shores. a small turtle was +seen, and the sucking fish was put into the water. At first it swam +lazily about, apparently recovering the strength which it had lost by +removal from its native element; but presently it swam slowly in the +direction of the turtle till out of sight; in a very short time the +line was rapidly carried out, there was a jerk, and the turtle was +fast. The line was handled gently for two or three minutes, the +steersman causing the canoe to follow the course of the turtle with +great dexterity. It was soon exhausted and hauled up to the canoe. +It was a small turtle, weighing a little under forty pounds (40 +lbs.), but the sucking fish adhered so tenaciously to it as to raise +it from the ground when held up by the tail, and this some time after +being taken out of the water. A strong breeze coming on, the canoe +had to seek the shore without any more sport. I have seen turtle +weighing more than one hundred (100) pounds, which had been taken in +the manner described. Though large numbers of the hawksbill turtles +are taken by the Cape York natives, it is very difficult to procure +the shell from them; they are either too lazy to save it, or if they +do so, it is bartered to the Islanders of Torres' Straits, who use it +for making masks and other ornaments. + +11. Although there is a considerable variety of reptiles, snakes do +not appear to be very numerous. The common brown snake and +death-adder are found; carpet snakes (a kind of 'boa'), appear to be +the most common, and grow to a large size. They have been very +troublesome by killing our poultry at night. They seem to be +bloodthirsty creatures, frequently killing much larger animals than +they can possibly swallow, and are not satisfied with one victim at a +time. One which was killed in my fowl-house had three half grown +chickens compressed in its folds and held one in its jaws. A short +time since I was roused in the middle of the night by the piteous +cries of a young kangaroo dog, and on running out found it rolling on +the ground in the coils of a large carpet snake. The dog was +severely bitten in the loin, but in the morning was quite well, +proving that the bite of this reptile is innocuous. This snake +measured nearly twelve feet in length. + +12. Crocodiles are found in numbers in the Kennedy River and a +lagoon, which has communication with its estuary. They are also seen +occasionally in the bays in Albany Passage. + +13. Of the aborigines of Cape York I can say little more than has +already been so often repeated in descriptions of the natives of +other parts of the Australian continent. The only distinction that I +can perceive, is that they appear to be in a lower state of +degradation, mentally and physically, than any of the Australian +aboriginal tribes which I have seen. Tall well-made men are +occasionally seen; but these almost invariably show decided traces of +a Papuan or new Guinea origin, being easly distinguished by the +"thrum" like appearance of the hair, which is of a somewhat reddish +tinge, occasioned no doubt by constant exposure to the sun and +weather. The color of their skin is also much lighter, in some +individuals approaching almost to a copper color. The true +Australian aborigines are perfectly black, with generally woolly +heads of hair; I have however, observed some with straight hair and +features prominent, and of a strong Jewish cast. The body is marked +on each shoulder with a shield-like device, and on each breast is +generally a mark in shape of a heart, very neatly executed. The +large cicatrices which appear on the bodies of the tribes of Southern +Australia are not used here; nor is a front tooth taken out at the +age of puberty. The 'septum' of the nose is pierced, and the +crescent-shaped tooth, of the dugong is worn in it on state +occasions; large holes are also made in the ears, and a piece of wood +as large as a bottle cork, and whitened with pipe clay, is inserted +in them. A practise of cutting the hair off very close is followed +by both sexes, seemingly once a year, and wigs are made of the hair. +These are decorated with feathers, and worn at the 'corrobories' or +gatherings. The women hold, if possible, a more degraded position +than that generally assigned to them among the Australian aborigines. +They are indeed wretched creatures. The only covering worn by them +is a narrow belt of twisted grass, with a fringe of strips of palm +leaves in front. the men go entirley naked. The aborigines make no +huts. In the wet weather a rude screen of leafy boughs, with palm +leaves -- if any happen to grow in the neighbourhood -- is set up as +a shelter. + +14. The arms used by these natives are few and simple. Four sorts +of spears, made from the suckers of a very light wood tree with large +pith, headed with hard wood and generally topped with bone so as to +form a point or barb, are the most common. The end of the tail of a +species of ray fish is sometimes used as a point. It is serrated and +brittle, and on entering any object breaks short off. It is said to +be poisonous, but I do not believe such to be the case, as one of the +marines stationed here was speared in the shoulder with one of these +spears, and no poisonous effect was produced. The point which broke +short off, however, remained in the wound, and could not be extracted +for many months. The spear most commonly in use, and the most +effective, has merely a head of very hard wood, from a species of +acacia, scraped to a very fine sharp point. These are the only +spears which can be thrown with any precision to a distance -- they +are sent with considerable force. I extracted two from the thigh of +one of my horses; the animal had another in the shoulder, which had +entered to a depth of five and a half inches. All spears are thrown +with the 'wommera', or throwing stick. A rudely made stone tomahawk +is in use among the Cape York natives, but it is now nearly +surperseded by iron axes obtained from the Europeans. I have seen no +other weapons among them; the boomerang and nulla-nulla (or club) are +not known. + +15. The greatest ingenuity which the natives display is in the +construction and balancing of their canoes. These are formed from +the trunk of the cotton tree ('Cochlospermum') hollowed out. The +wood is soft and spongy, and becomes very light when dry. The canoes +are sometimes more than fifty feet in length, and are each capable of +containing twelve or fifteen natives. The hull is balanced and +steadied in the water by two outrigger poles, laid athwart, having a +float of light wood fastened across them at each end -- so that it is +impossible for them to upset. A stage is formed on the canoe where +the outriggers cross, on which is carried the fishing gear, and, +invariably, also fire. The canoes are propelled by short paddles, or +a sail of palm-leaf matting when the wind is fair. Considerable +nicety is also shown in the making of fishing lines and hooks. The +former are made from the fibres of a species of climber very neatly +twisted. The fish-hooks are made of tortoise-shell, or nails +procured from wreck timber. They are without barbs, and our +fish-hooks are eagerly sought for in place of them. + +16. The food of the natives consists chiefly of fish, and, in the +season, turtle, with roots and fruits. These latter and shell-fish +it is the business of the females to collect and prepare. They may, +however, be truly said to be omnivorous, for nothing comes amiss to +them, and the quantity they can consume is almost incredible. I have +seen them luxuriating on the half putrid liver of a large shark cast +up on the beach, the little black children scooping up the filthy +oil, and discussing it with apparently the greatest gusto. + +17. These remarks apply to the four tribes which inhabit the +territory within the limits mentioned at the commencement of this +report -- viz., the peninsula to the northward of the Kennedy River. +These four tribes are not distinguishable from each other in any +distinct peculiarity that I can perceive. They keep each to their +own territory, except on the occasion of a grand "corroborie," when +the whole assemble. They are at present on terms of peace nominally. +Should a safe opportunity of cutting off a straggler offer, I have no +doubt it would be taken advantage of. They are cowardly and +treacherous in the extreme. The "Gudang" tribe, claiming the land +from Cape York to Fly Point, at the entrance of Albany Pass, is small +in numbers, having, I fancy, been seriously thinned by their +neighbours, the "Kororegas," from the Prince of Wales' Island, in +Torres' Straits, who frequently come down upon them. Paida, Mr. +M'Gillivray's 'kotaiga' (friend), was not long since killed by them. +The "Goomkoding" tribe, who live on the north-western shore, I have +seen little of. They and the "Gudang" seem to hold most +communication with the islanders of 'Torres' Straits, the +intermixture of the races being evident. "Kororega" words are used +by both these tribes, and the bow and arrow are sometimes seen among +them, having been procured from the island. The "Yadaigan" tribe +inhabit the south side of Newcastle Bay and the Kennedy River; the +"Undooyamo," the north side. These two tribes are more numerous than +the two first-mentioned, and appear to be of a more independant race +than the others, and gave us much trouble on our first settlement, by +continual thefts and otherwise. The tract of country which they +inhabit is nearly covered with the densest scrub and with swamp, into +which they took refuge with their booty as soon as any depredation +was committed, so as to render it next to impossible for us to pursue +them. These four tribes together do not number in all more than 250 +to 300 men. + +18. All these people are much addicted to smoking. Tobacco is used +by them in preference when it can be got. Before its introduction, +or when it was not procurable from Europeans, the leaves of a large +spreading tree, a species of 'Eugenia', was, and is still used. +These leaves must possess some strong deleterious or narcotic +property. I was for some time puzzled to assign a cause for so many +of the natives being scarred by burns. Nearly every one shows some +marks of burning, and some of them are crippled and disfigured by +fire in a frightful manner. They smoke to such excess as to become +quite insensible, and in that state they fall into their camp-fires, +and receive the injuries mentioned. The pipe used is a singular +instrument for the purpose. It is a hollow bamboo about 2 1/2 feet +long, and as thick as a quart bottle; one of the smoking party fills +this in turn with smoke from a funnel-shaped bowl, in which the +tobacco is placed by blowing it through a hole at one end of the +tube. When filled it is handed to some one who inhales and swallows +as much of the smoke as he can, passing the pipe on to his neighbour. +I have seen a smoker so much affected by one dose as to lie helpless +for some minutes afterwards. + +19. Thus much for the general appearance and habits of the Cape +York natives. A very accurate vocabulary of their language has been +published by Mr. M'Gillivary in his account of the voyage of H.M.S. +Rattlesnake. Of their superstitions I am unable to speak with +certainty. That they have no belief in the existence of a Supreme +Being is, I think, positive. They are, like all the Australian +tribes, averse to travelling about at night if dark; this, I believe, +chiefly arises from the inconvenience and difficulty of moving about +at such times, and not from any superstitious fear. They travel when +there is moonlight. They are true observers of the weather, and +before the approach of a change move their camps so as to obtain a +sheltered position. They do not seem to give the slightest thought +to cause or effect, and would, I believe eat and pass away their time +in a sort of trance-like apathy. Nothing appears to create surprise +in them, and nothing but hunger, or the sense of immediate danger, +arouses them from their listlessness. + +20. I am aware of the great interest taken by his Excellency the +Governor and all the members of the Government of Queensland in the +promotion of missionary enterprise. I much fear, however, that the +mainland here will be found but a barren field for missionary labors. +One great obstacle to successful work is the unsettled nature of the +people. No inducement can keep them long in one place. Certainly a +missionary station might be formed on one of the neighbouring islands +-- Albany or Mount Adolphus Island, for instance, where some of the +young natives might be kept in training, according to the system used +by Bishops Selwyn and Patterson for the instruction of the +Melanesians. + +21. With the Kororegas or Prince of Wales Islanders, who, from +constant communication with the islands to the northward, have +acquired a higher degree of intelligence than the pure Australians, I +believe a successful experiment could be made. Missionary enterprise +beyond the protection and influence of this new settlement at +Somerset would, of course, at present be attended with considerable +risk. + +22. To the Banks and Mulgrave Islanders in Torres' Straits, a +similar remark will apply. Those people, however, seem to be of a +more savage nature, although intelligent, and giving considerable +attention to the cultivation of yams, bananas, etc. Both the good +and bad features in their characters may, I believe, in a great +measure be attributed to the strong influence exercised among them by +a white man, called by the natives "Wini," who has been living there +for many years. This man, who is supposed to be an escaped convict +from one of the former penal settlements in Australia, no doubt +considers it politic to keep Europeans from visiting the island where +he resides, "Badu". The natives of Cape York hold him and the Banks +Islanders generally in the greatest dread, giving me to understand +that all strangers going to these islands are killed, and their heads +cut off. The latter appears to be the custom of these and the +neighbouring islands towards their slain enemies. + +23. The natives of the islands more to the northward and eastward +are said to be of milder dispositions, especially the Darnley +Islanders -- of whom Captain Edwards, of Sydney, who had a +"Bech-de-mer" fishing establishment there during the last year, +speaks in high terms as being of friendly dispositions and displaying +very considerable intelligence, living in comfortable huts and +cultivating yams, bananas, coconuts, etc., in considerable +quantities. Among these islanders I should think missionaries might +establish themselves without great difficulty, and with a +satisfactory result. + +24. I think that the simple fact of a settlement of Europeans being +established at Cape York will very much tend to curb the savage +natures of the natives, not only of the mainland, but also of the +islands, and any unfortunates who may be cast among them from +shipwrecked vessels will, at all events, have their lives spared; and +I believe that, should such an event take place, I should soon hear +of it from the natives here. The communication between the islanders +and the natives of the mainland is frequent, and the rapid manner in +which news is carried from tribe to tribe to great distances is +astonishing. I was informed of the approach of H.M.S. Salamander on +her last visit two days before her arrival here. Intelligence is +conveyed by means of fires made to throw smoke up in different forms, +and by messengers who perform long and rapid journeys. + +25. I should like much to send one or two of the Cape York natives +to Brisbane to remain there a short time. I believe that the reports +which they would bring back to their tribe of the wonders seen among +the white men would tend more than any other means to promote +friendly feelings towards us, and to fit their minds to receive +favourable impressions. + +26. From what I have previously said of the soil here, it will be +seen that no large portion of it is suited for agriculture. Even +were the land good, the peculiar climate, which may be considered dry +for eight months in the year, would not permit satisfactory +cultivation to any large extent. During the rainy months, from +December to April, vegetables suitable to the temperature may be +grown in abundance. + +27. Of the agreeableness and salubrity of the climate of Somerset, I +can not speak too favorably. The wet season commenced here last year +(1864) with the month of December, and continued till the latter part +of March. During that time the rain was intermittent, a day or two +of heavy wet being succeeded by fine weather. The winds from the +north west were light, and falling away to calm in the evening and +night. During this season the highest range of my thermometer was 98 +degrees in the shade; but it very rarely exceeds 90 degrees, as may +be seen from Dr. Haran's meteorological sheets. During the calms +immediately succeeding wet the heat was disagreeable, and mosquitoes +appeared, but not numerously. The nights were invariably cool. The +weather for the remaining seasons of the year may be termed +enjoyable. A fresh bracing breeze from the south east blows almost +continually, the thermometer averaging during the day from 80 to 85 +degrees. This temperature, with the cool nights, (sufficiently so to +render a blanket welcome) and delightful sea bathing, prevent any of +the lassitude or enervating influence so common to tropical climates +elsewhere from being felt at Somerset. + +28. During the time of my residence here no serious indisposition +has occurred among the European residents. Occasional slight attacks +of illness generally traceable to some cause, has taken place, but as +far as can be judged there is no 'local malady'. There has been no +symptom of fever or ague, which it was apprehended would be prevalent +during the rainy season, as in other hot countries. Dr. Haran, R.N., +(the naval surgeon in charge) reports very favorably of the salubrity +of the climate. I have every reason to believe with Dr. Haran, that +at no very distant period, when steam communication through Torres +Straits shall have been establish, Somerset will be eagerly sought by +invalids from the East as an excellent and accessible sanatorium. + +29. At all events, there can be no doubt but that the new settlement +will fulfil admirably the objects for which it was founded, 'i.e.', a +port of call and harbor of refuge for trade in the dangerous +navigation of Torres Straits, and a coal depot for steamers. + +30. I almost fear that in the foregoing remarks it may be considered +that on some subjects I have entered too much into details, while on +others my notices have been too slight. I have endeavored, as much +as possible, to confine myself to subjects of interest, and you may +rely on my statements as the result of personal observation. Should +there be any particular point on which the Government may require +more specific information, I shall be most happy, if it be in my +power, to afford it. + +I have the honor to be, Sir, +Your most obedient servant, +JOHN JARDINE, P.M. + + +------ + +PORT ALBANY. + +OVERLAND JOURNEY OF THE MESSRS. JARDINE TO THE PORT ALBANY SETTLEMENT. + +Somerset, May 1, 1865. + +Sir, -- Since the date of my last report the most important +intelligence which I have to communicate is the arrival of my sons, +Frank and Alexander Jardine, with their overland party, all safe and +well, after an extremely arduous and toilsome journey of five months, +almost entirely over country which for the greater part may be termed +barren, the distance travelled over being somewhat more than 900 +miles. + +2. The party, consisting of my two sons and four other Europeans +(including Mr. Surveyor Richardson, attached to the expedition by the +Government of Queensland), with four aborigines of the Rockhampton +district, made their final start from Mr. J. G. McDonald's station, +Carpentaria Downs, in latitude 18 deg. 37 min 10 sec S., longitude +144 deg. 3 min 30 sec. E, (the farthest out-station on the supposed +Lynd River), on the 11th of October, 1864, and reached this place on +the 13th of March, ult. Rockhampton was the first point of +departure, my second son leaving it, with the horses and men, on the +16th of May, 1864, making the journey for them about 1800 miles. + +3. It would appear from the journals kept that a great portion of +the country on the west coast of the York Peninsula, especially in +the locality of the Mitchell River, is at times (I presume +periodically) subject to inundation; the water, however, soon +disappears from the flat and sandy land, and for the greater portion +of the year, till the next rainy season, the country is destitute of +water, and in other respects little better than an absolute desert. + +4. It is a subject of great regret to myself, and in which I am sure +you will share, that this long journey should be, so far as at +present appears, productive of so poor a result to the public in +developing new resources to the colony. However, a large and +valuable addition to geographical information has certainly been +gained; but at the same time few of the important discoveries in +lands suitable for pastoral or agricultural occupation, or in +minerals, etc., etc., and which might in so large a tract of country +have reasonably been expected, have been made. + +5. My sons have experienced a severe disappointment to their hopes +and expectations in the nature of the country around, and within a +reasonable distance of this place, as well as a heavy loss in +prosecuting their undertaking. However at their ages, 23 and 21 +respectively, the spirit is very buoyant, and they are again quite +ready for another venture. Their journey, which, from the nature of +the country traversed, has been one of unusual difficulty and +hardship; and it is surprising to me that, hampered as they were with +a herd of 250 cattle, for which providing food and water in a barren +and unknown country is in itself no easy matter, they should have +come through so successfully. + +6. Next to the general barrenness of the country, the difficulties +they had to encounter were -- first, the destruction of a quantity of +their supplies and gear, through the camp being carelessly permitted +to catch fire during their absence in pioneering the route. Next, +the determined hostility of the natives, who were almost continually +on their track, annoying them on every favorable opportunity; on one +occasion, the crossing of the "Mitchell," opposing them so +obstinately that a considerable number were shot before they would +give way. Then the loss of two-thirds of their horses (all the best) +from eating some poisonous plant, and which necessitated the last 300 +miles of the journey being travelled on foot; and last, the flooded +state of the country during the season of the rains. And I think it +is not too much for me to say, that nothing but a thorough knowledge +of their business, supported by determined energy, could have carried +them through what must be considered one of the most arduous tasks in +exploration on record. + +7. I will not attempt in the small space of a letter to give you +more full particulars of the journey and its incidents. Mr. Surveyor +Richardson has, of course, his journal and maps of the route as +directed by the government, and from these, with the information +gained by my sons in their numerous "offsets" in search of the best +courses to follow, which will be placed at the disposal of the +Government, I believe a pretty accurate idea of the nature of the +country on the west coast of the York Peninsula may be gathered. + +8. My sons have at present formed their station near Point Vallack, +on the north shore of Newcastle Bay, between two or three miles from +the settlement of Somerset. They are on good terms with the natives, +and their black servants fraternise with them, but are kept under +strict rule. The natives of Cape York from the first have shown a +friendly feeling towards them, having, on their first arrival, met +them about twenty miles from the settlement, and shown them the +nearest way to it, and they have since been very useful in carrying +timber to build huts, stockyards, etc., etc; and I believe that for +the future, if well treated, they will offer no annoyance to the +present settlers. The establishment of a cattle station in the +neighborhood is of great advantage to the settlement, serving as an +outpost to secure its safety, and in opening up the country, besides +affording a ready supply of fresh meat. Already my sons and their +blacks have cut good passages through the scrub to the settlement, +and also through the various belts of scrub dividing their station +from open grounds; so that now a large extent of country can be +'ridden' over without obstruction. + +9. I have little else of importance to communicate. The affairs of +this settlement have gone on slowly but steadily. The several works +left unfinished are, under the charge of the acting foreman, Private +Bosworth, Royal Marines, (and of whom I can speak most highly for his +attention and work), completed, with the exception of the Custom +House, which is well advanced. + +10. The natives are on good terms with us, and work for us in +various ways, being duly paid in food, tobacco, etc. + +11. On the 23rd ultimo there was a slight shock of an earthquake +felt distinctly by myself and other persons here. It occurred in the +afternoon, about two o'clock, was accompanied by a rumbling sound, +but lasted little more than a minute. The health of the royal +Marines, and all other residents at the settlement, continues to be +very good, as will be seen from the report of the surgeon Dr. Haran, +R.N. I have the honor to be, Sir, + +Your most obedient servant, + +JOHN JARDINE. P.M. + +To the Hon. the Colonial Secretary, Brisbane. + +*** + +DR. HARAN'S REPORT. + +Somerset, May 22, 1865. + +Sir, + +It affords me much pleasure to have again to forward to your Excellency +a most favourable report of the climate of this settlement, and of the +uninterrupted good health of our small community, military and civil. +the dreaded summer season, with its calms, light winds and heavy rains, +has passed off without causing a single case of sickness, attributable +to noxious exhalations, which prevail at that season in most tropical +climates, but which, in my opinion, cannot exist here, owing to the +preventive causes enumerated in my letter of the 13th January last; +neither have we experienced that oppressiveness of the atmosphere which +its saturated condition at that season through the sun's direct +influence in favoring evaporation in the surrounding seas would lead one +to expect. Some slight oppressiveness was felt immediately before the +rains, but speedily disappeared on their occurrence. I can only account +for this valuable immunity by attributing it to some peculiarity of +climate, in all probability to the same causes which counteract the +evolution of noxious exhalations; for we did experience calms and very +light winds, and the hygrometer during the greater part of the time +indicated a very large amount of moisture in the atmosphere. + +2. The meteorological sheets forwarded by this opportunity, contain full +particulars regarding the winds, temperature, etc., for the last four +months, and having been prepared from a series of observations, +conducted with care and regularly registered, they cannot fail, amongst +other important objects bearing on general climatology, to afford +convincing proof that, as a climate, even during the summer season, that +of Somerset, although in close proximity to the equator, possesses many +advantages not attainable in higher latitudes, and is, in my opinion, +from its mildness and equable character, especially suited for such as +may have the misfortune to be predisposed to, or suffering from, +pulmonary consumption. + +3. The S.E. Trade ceased as a continuous wind in these seas on the 24th +December last. Calms, light winds, from all points of the compass, but +chiefly from the points between North and West to South, or against the +sun's course, and heavy rains, with electric phenomena of a +comparatively mild character, succeeded and persisted until the 11th of +March; when the sun's more direct influence having been diverted from +its course, and in a manner dissipated by the great heat and +evaporation, again resumed its ascendancy, and has continued since +without interruption. + +4. On the 25th of January two of the Marines were seized with a severe +headache and other suspicious symptoms while working in the sun during a +calm; and I consider it my duty at once to recommend such alteration in +the working hours as would protect the men from sun-exposure during its +period of greatest heat. These alternations were adopted, and continued +in force until the 22nd of March, when the former working hours were +resumed, as no danger was apprehended from solar heat at any time of the +day during the prevalence of the S.E. Trade wind. + +5. One well-marked case of scurvy became developed at the end of +January; and a few of several cases of cutaneous eruption under +treatment at the time closely resembled the symptoms characteristic of +that disease. the only anti-scorbutic dietary available, +viz.,--preserved meats and potatoes, compressed vegetables and lemon +juice, was issued at once, and continued on the salt-meat days for three +weeks, when all the indications of scurvy having disappeared, the usual +dietary was resumed. Since then the entire adult community have enjoyed +very good health. + +I am, etc., + +T. J. HARAN, Surgeon, R.N. + +His Excellency, Governor Sir G.F. Bowen, G.C.M.G. + + + + +*** + +JARDINE'S JOURNAL - NOTES BY THE ETEXT-MAKER. + +Spelling errors and typos listed below are as shown in the paper text +and have been copied into the electronic text. + + +FRONT MATTER + +The footnote in the INTRODUCTION does not have a referent in the text -- +there is no asterisk in the text. It is not clear whether the +'settlement' it refers to as having been abandoned is at Adam Bay or in +Western Australia. + +P ix - 'loosing' instead of 'losing' +P xi - re-placed + + +CHAPTER 1 + +There are several words in this chapter which do not conform to today's +spelling, but which appear in the paper text as copied: +p 1 - faciliate +p 3 - agreable +p 5 - speers +p 5 - Gaala Creek - (should be Galaa Creek) +p 5 - discription +p 7 - amunition + + +CHAPTER 2 + +P 9 - amunition +P 9 - earthern +P 9 - cheifly +P 10 - stoney +P 10 - occuring +P 11 - villanous +P 11 - vestage +P 16 - potatoe +P 16 - oppossum +P 17 - apparantly +P 18 - despatch +P 18 - amunition +p 19 - muscles - probably should be 'mussels' +p 19 - (about 18 miles.... - no closing bracket +p 23 - a cawbawn saucy - should probably be 'as cawbawn.... +p 23 - agressors +p 24 - succeded +p 24 - 'where' instead of 'were' +p 24 - 'frighened' instead of 'frightened' +p 26 - emeu +p 27 - double and single quotes on "Ferguson,' don't match +p 27 - 'spenifex' instead of 'spinifex' + + +CHAPTER 3 +P 30 - too (too days) +P 30 - dilirious +P 32 - carcase +p 32 - indispensible +P 32 - chissel +P 33 - 'these' should probably be 'they' +p 33 - pigmy +P 34 - agreably +P 34 - a-head +P 35 - degnified +P 36 - 'course' instead of 'coarse' +P 37 - steadilly +P 37 - abondoned +p 37 - wirey +P 38 - cheifly +p 38 - seives +P 38 - permenantly +p 39 - occuring +P 40 - frightended +P 40 - bythe (all one word) +P 40 - gratuitious + + +CHAPTER 4 + +P 42 - they (no capital on beginning of sentence) +P 43 - horses (no possessive apostrophe) +P 43 - varities +P 44 - varities +p 44 - gulley +p 46 - sheild +p 48 - agressor +p 49 - peices +p 50 - bitcher plant -- (instead of pitcher plant?) +p 50 - pelluced +-------------------------------------------- + +CHAPTER 5 + +p 59 - 'course sandstone' -- should probably be 'coarse' +p 63 - a-head +p 64 - the latitude measurements seem to have reversed the signs for + minutes and seconds in measuring latitude. I have spelled out the words. +p 67 - 'meet' instead of 'meat' +p 68 - 'eat' instead of 'ate' +p 69 - horsmen +p 69 - admonitary +p 70 - Lichhardt +p 70 - retreiver +p 70 - mocassins + + +CHAPTER 6 + + +p 72 - distention +p 73 - 'gotting' should be 'getting'? +p 73 - exhiliration + + + +APPENDIX + +p 75 - weeps the stream -- should be 'sweeps the stream'? or was the + author being poetic? +p 77 - SPINIGEX -- should be 'Spinifex' +p 77 - genuis -- genus +p 77 - neverthless +p 77 - loosing - losing +p 78 - vigilence +p 79 - Thozets' - Thozet's +p 82 - easly - easily +p 82 - entirley +p 83 - surperseded + + + + +End Project Gutenberg Etext The Overland Expedition of The Messrs. Jardine +by Messrs. Jardine [Byerley ed.] + diff --git a/old/xpjrd10.zip b/old/xpjrd10.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..29162b6 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/xpjrd10.zip diff --git a/old/xpjrd10h b/old/xpjrd10h new file mode 100644 index 0000000..e94dde0 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/xpjrd10h @@ -0,0 +1,5762 @@ +<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN"> +<html> +<head> +<title>The Overland Expedition of The Messrs. Jardine</title> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1"> +<style type="text/css"> +<!-- +body {background:lightyellow; margin:10%; text-align:justify} +h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 {color:green; text-align:center} +blockquote {font:smaller} +p.poem {text-align:center} +p.external {font:bold} +--> +</style> +</head> +<body> + +<h2><a href="#home">OVERLAND EXPEDITION OF THE MESSRS. JARDINE</a></h2> +<br /> +<pre> +The Project Gutenberg Etext of The Overland Expedition of The Messrs. Jardine +by Messrs. 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BUXTON, BOOKSELLER AND STATIONER.</h5> + +<h5>1867.</h5> + +<hr width="50%" align="center"> + +<h4>TO<br> + +SIR CHARLES NICHOLSON, BART.,<br> + +CHANCELLOR OF THE UNIVERSITY OF SYDNEY, etc., etc., etc.,<br> + +AS ONE OF<br> + +OUR OLDEST AND MOST DISTINGUISHED<br> + +COLONISTS.<br> + +THE NARRATIVE IS INSCRIBED<br> + +WITH GREAT RESPECT, BY<br> + +THE EDITOR.</h4> + +<p> </p> + +<center> +<a name="pic1"></a> +<img alt="" src="jardine-2men.jpg"> +<p><b>F and A Jardine</b></p> +</center> + +<p> </p> + +<h3>List of Images</h3> +<p align="center"><a href="#pic1">F and A Jardine</a> +<p align="center"><a href="#pic2">Somerset Cape York</a> +<p align="center"><a href="#pic3">Map of the northern part of Queensland showing the route of Messrs Jardine from August 1864 to January 1865. [see bottom of map to display in higher resolution]</a> + + +<h3>PREFACE.</h3> + +<p>The Settlement of Northern Australia has of late years been of such +rapid growth as to furnish matter for a collection of narratives, +which in the aggregate would make a large and interesting volume. +Prominent amongst these stands that of the Settlement of Cape York, +under the superintendence of Mr. Jardine, with which the gallant trip +of his two sons overland must ever be associated. It was a journey +which, but for the character and qualities of the Leader, might have +terminated as disastrously as that of his unfortunate, but no less +gallant predecessor, Kennedy. A brilliant achievement in +exploration, in a colony where exploring has become common and almost +devoid of interest, from the number of those yearly engaged in it, +its very success has prevented its attracting that share of public +attention to which its results very fully entitled it. Had it been +attended with any signal disaster, involving loss of life, it would +have been otherwise. Geographically, it has solved the question +hitherto undecided of the course of the northern rivers emptying into +the Gulf of Carpentaria, of which nothing was previously known but +their outlets, taken from the charts of the Dutch Navigators. It has +also made known, with tolerable definiteness, how much, or rather, +how little, of the "York Peninsula" is adapted for pastoral +occupation, whilst its success in taking the first stock overland, +and forming a cattle station at Newcastle Bay, has insured to the +Settlement at Somerset a necessary and welcome supply of fresh meat, +and done away with its dependence for supplies on importations by sea +of less nourishing salt provision. + +<p>Starting from the then farthest out-station of Northern Queensland +with a small herd of cattle, these hardy young bushmen met with and +successfully combated, almost every "accident by flood and field" +that could well occur in an expedition. First, an arid waterless +country forced them to follow down two streams at right angles with +their course for upwards of 200 miles, causing a delay which betrayed +them into the depths of the rainy season; then the loss of half their +food and equipment by a fire, occasioned by the carelessness of some +of the party; next the scarcity of grass and water, causing a further +delay by losses of half their horses, which were only recovered to be +again lost altogether -- killed by eating a deadly poison plant; and +finally, the setting in of the wet season, making the ground next to +impassable, and so swelling the rivers, that when actually in sight, +and within a week's journey of their destination, they were turned +off their course, and were more than six weeks in reaching it. Added +to this, and running through the whole journey, was the incessant and +determined, although unprovoked, hostility of the natives, which, but +for the unceasing vigilence and prompt and daring action of the +Brothers, might have eventually compassed the annihilation of the +whole party. Had Leichhardt used the same vigilance and decision the +life of poor Gilbert would not have been sacrificed, and in all +probability we should not now deplore his own loss. But the black +tribes which dogged the steps of each expedition, and amongst whom, +probably, were the slayers of Kennedy and Gilbert, met at the hands +of the Brothers the treatment they deserved. If the lessons were +severe, they were in every case of the native's own seeking, and were +administered in fair and open combat, in which few of the white party +were without having narrow escapes to record; but a providential good +fortune seemed to attend them, for every member got through the +journey without accident. An account has been furnished to the +newspapers in the form of a journal by Mr. Richardson, the Surveyor +appointed to accompany the expedition, but it is much too brief and +epitomized to do justice to the subject, and omits altogether the +detached and independant trips of the Brothers whilst exploring ahead +to find the best country through which to take the herd; and, as the +Brothers Jardine themselves would probably much rather repeat their +journey than write a full account of it, it has devolved on the +Editor to attempt to put before the public a compilation of their +journals in such form as will give the narrative sufficient interest +to carry with it the attention of the reader to the end. Although +the matter is ample, this is no easy task for an unpracticed pen, for +to the general reader, the usual monotonous details and entries of an +explorer's notes, which alone give them value to the geographer, +cannot be hoped to excite interest or command attention. But the +journey was full of incident, and the Brothers, although not +scientific naturalists, were keen sportsmen, excelling in all +exercises requiring strength and activity, who had acquired from +their training in the bush that sharpening of the senses and faculty +of observing, the peculiar result of a life in the wilds, which not +only so well fitted them for the conduct of such an expedition, but +also enabled them to note and describe with accuracy the various +interesting objects in botany and zoology met with in the course of +their journey. It is therefore hoped that there will be sufficient +to interest each class of reader. Aided by Mr. Jardine, senior, a +gentleman of large experience in both Botany and Natural History, the +Editor has been enabled to supply the generic names of the birds and +plants met with; which, in many cases, if not altogether new, are +interesting as determining the range and habitat of the birds, and +the zones of vegetation and trees; but it is to be regretted that +there was no one in the party having sufficient knowledge of drawing +to figure such objects, or to delineate some of the more striking +scenes and incidents of the journey. As these can now only be +supplied from the graphic descriptions given by the actors in them, +the Editor, without drawing too much on his imagination, has, in the +compilation of the journals, attempted in some cases to supplement +what was wanted in the text, so as to give the narrative such color +as would make it more readable than a mere journal, but in every case +rendering the descriptions of the prominent incidents of the journey +almost in the original words of the writers, merely adding as much as +would save the text from abruptness. He has adhered to the diurnal +form of narrative, for the sake of recording, for the benefit of +future travellers, the numbers, marks, latitude, etc., of each camp, +and endeavoured to compass by this composite method the value of a +work of record with the interest of a narrative. + +<p>It is also to be regretted that so long a time should have been +allowed to elapse between the end of the journey and the publication +of these pages. The causes of the delay are -- first, the +indisposition on the part of the Brothers to "go into print," their +modesty leading them to imagine they had done nothing worth "writing +about," nor was it until the writer pressed them to allow him to +compile and edit their journals that they consented to make them +public; next, the want of leisure on the part of the compiler, whose +official duties have prevented application to his task, save in +detached and interrupted periods; and last, by the difficulty of +making arrangements for publication at a distance. + +<p>If his labor secures to the young explorers the credit and praise +which is the just and due reward of a gallant achievement, and adds a +page of interest to the records of Australian Exploration, his aim +will have been attained, and he will be fully rewarded. + +<p>The Hermitage, <i>Rockhampton, December</i>, 1866. + +<h3>INTRODUCTION.</h3> + +<p>In presenting the following pages to the Reader, it may not be out of +place to take a retrospect of the progress of Australian Settlement +generally, and particularly in the young northern colony of +Queensland. + +<p>During the last six years the great question of the character of +Central Australia, in the solution of which the lives of the +unfortunate Leichhardt and his party have been sacrificed, has been +set at rest by the memorable trip of Burke and Wills, and no less +memorable, but more fortunate one of McDouall Stewart. The Search +Expeditions of McKinlay, Howitt, Landsborough, and Walker, have made +it still more familiar, their routes connecting the out-settlements +of South Australia with those of the Gulf Shores and East Coast, and +adding their quota of detail to the skeleton lines of Leichhardt, +Gregory, and Burke and Wills; whilst private enterprise has, during +that time, been busy in further filling in the spaces, and utilizing +the knowledge gained by occupying the waste lands thus opened up. + +<p>It is questionable whether the amount of available country thus made +known has not been dearly purchased, by the very large sums that have +been expended, and the valuable lives that have been lost in its +exploration; the arid and waterless wastes of the interior, which +have now been proved equally subject to terrific droughts and +devastating floods, make it improbable that the Settlements of the +North Coast and the Southern Colonies can be connected by a +continuous line of occupation for many years to come; the rich +pastoral tracts of Arnheim's Land, the Victoria River, the Gulf +Coast, and Albert and Flinders Rivers, are thus the only localities +likely to be made use of for the present; these, however, have been +known since the first explorations of Leichhardt and Gregory; we are +forced, therefore, to the conclusion that the results of the +subsequent expeditions are not commensurate with their cost and +sacrifices, and to consider whether further exploration may not be +safely left to private enterprise. + +<p>Let us now glance at what has been done since 1860 in the way of +occupation. South Australia has founded on theNorth Coast a +Settlement at Adam Bay, on the Adelaide River, but its progress seems +to have been marked from the onset by misfortune. The officer +charged with its formation, in a short time managed to raise so +strong a feeling of dissatisfaction and dislike amongst the settlers +as to call for a Commission of Enquiry on his administration, which +resulted in his removal. His successor seems, by latest accounts to +have raised up no less dislike, the difference of his rule being +likened by the papers to that of the fabled kings, Log and Stork. +The site of the Settlement, Escape Cliffs, has been universally +condemned; one charge against the first Resident being, that it was +selected in opposition to the almost unanimous opinion of the +colonists. The subject was referred for final report to John +McKinley, the well-known Explorer, who, bearing out the general +opinion, at once condemned it, and set out to explore the country in +search for a better. In this he has not discovered any new locality, +but has recommended Anson Bay, at the mouth of the Daly, a site +previously visited, but rejected by the first Resident. Previous to +his visit to Anson Bay, Mr. McKinlay started with a well-equiped +party for an exploring trip, which was to last twelve months. At the +end of five he returned, after one of the most miraculous escapes of +himself and party from destruction on record, having only penetrated +to the East Alligator River, about 80 miles from Adam Bay; here he +became surrounded by floods, and only saved his own and the lives of +his party (loosing all else) by the desperate expedient of making a +boat of the hides of their horses, in which they floated down the +swollen river, and eventually reached the Settlement. It is not +improbable that in some such a flood poor Leichhardt and his little +band lost their lives, and all trace of their fate has been +destroyed. These experiences have caused some doubt and despondency +as to the future of the new Settlement, and the question is now being +agitated in the South Australian Parliament as to the desirability or +not of abandoning it. + +<p>Western Australia has formed the Settlements of Camden Harbor, and +Nickol Bay. The latter (the country around which was explored by Mr. +Francis Gregory, brother to the Surveyor-General of Queensland, in +1861), appears to have progressed favorably, the Grey, Gascoigne, +Oakover and Lyons Rivers affording inducements to stockholders to +occupy them, but the Settlement of Camden Harbor at the time of the +visit of Mr. Stow in his boat-voyage from Adam Bay to Champion Bay, +was being abandoned by the colonists, the country being unsuitable +for stock, and it would appear from that gentleman's account that the +whole of the north-west coast of the continent, from its general +character, offers but little inducement for settlement. + +<blockquote>[footnote] *Since this was written the settlement has been abandoned. +[NOTE -- the footnote in the INTRODUCTION does not have a referent in +the text -- there is no asterisk in the text. It is not clear +whether the <i>settlement</i> it refers to as having been abandoned is at +Adam Bay or in Western Australia.]</blockquote> + +<p>The explorations of Francis Gregory to the eastward from Nickol Bay, +and of the Surveyor-General to the south from the Victoria River, +were both arrested by wastes of drift-sand, whilst those from the +western seaboard have not been extended further inland than to more +than an average of 3 degrees of longitude. It may reasonably be +doubted, therefore, whether settlement will be much extended in that +direction. + +<p>Queensland, more fortunate in the character of the country, has, on +her part, successfully established six new settlements, to wit, +Mackay, at the Pioneer River; Bowen, Port Denison; Townsville, +Cleveland Bay; Cardwell, Rockingham Bay; Somerset, Cape York; and +Burke Town, at the Albert River; and there can be little doubt but +that the country of the Gulf shores and the northern territory of +South Australia must be <i>stocked</i>, if not settled, from the same +source. Already have our hardy pioneers driven their stock out as +far as the Flinders, Albert, Leichhardt, and Nicholson Rivers, the +Flinders and Cloncurry having been stocked along their length for +some time past. On the South and West, the heads of the Warrego, the +Nive, Barcoo, and Thompson have also been occupied, some of the +stations being between four and five hundred miles from the seaboard, +whilst the surveyors of the Roads Department have extended their +surveys as far as the two last-named rivers, for the purpose of +determining the best and shortest lines of communication. The +Government, with wise liberality, has facilitated the access from the +seaboard to the interior, by the expenditure of large sums in +constructing and improving passes through the Coast Range on four +different points, and by the construction of works on the worst +portions of the roads, have largely reduced the difficulties of +transport for the out-settlers. Bowen, a town which had no existence +six years ago, has been connected with Brisbane by the telegraph +wire, and ere another twelve months have elapsed the electric flash +will have placed Melbourne, in Victoria, and Burke Town, on the Gulf +of Carpentaria, "on speaking terms," the country between the latter +place and Cleveland Bay having been examined and determined on for a +telegraph line by the experienced explorer Walker for that purpose. + +<p>Of the six new settlements that have been called into existence, two, +Bowen and Townsville, have been incorporated, and are now, together +with Mackay, straining in the race to secure the trade of the western +interior. Cardwell has experienced a check, in consequence of an +undue haste in the adoption of a line of road over its Coast Range, +which is too difficult to be generally adopted, and will probably be +abandoned for a better since discovered; but its noble harbour is too +good, and the extent of back country it commands too extensive in +area, for it not ultimately to take its place as an important port. +Burke Town is but starting into existence, but already supplies the +settlers of the Flinders and other Gulf rivers with which it has +opened communication. Mr. William Landsborough, the well-known +explorer, has been charged with the administration of its affairs, +and a survey staff has been despatched to lay out the lands. Vessels +now trade direct from Brisbane with some regularity, which services +will, no doubt, soon be re-placed by steamers. + +<p>But it is with Somerset, Cape York, that we have more especial +concern. In the August of 1862, Sir George Bowen, Governor of +Queensland, being on a voyage of inspection to the Northern Ports, in +Her Majesty's Steamer "Pioneer," visited Port Albany, Cape York, and +on his return, in a despatch to the Imperial Government, recommended +it for the site of a Settlement, on account of its geographical +importance, as harbor of refuge, coaling station, and entrepot for +the trade of Torres Straits and the Islands of the North Pacific. +The following year the formation of a Settlement was decided upon, +the Home Government sending out a detachment of Marines to be +stationed there, and assist in its establishment. The task of +establishing the new Settlement was confided to Mr. Jardine, then +Police Magistrate of Rockhampton, than whom, perhaps, no man could be +found more fitted for its peculiar duties. An experienced official, +a military man, keen sportsman, and old bushman, he possessed, in +addition to an active and energetic temperament, every quality and +experience necessary for meeting the varied and exceptional duties +incident to such a position. It was whilst making the arrangements +for the expedition by sea, which was to transport the staff, +materiel, and stores of the Settlement, that Mr. Jardine, foreseeing +the want of fresh provision, proposed to the Government to send his +own sons, Frank and Alexander, overland with a herd of cattle to form +a station from which it might be supplied. This was readily acceded +to, the Government agreeing to supply the party with the services of +a qualified surveyor, fully equipped, to act as Geographer, by noting +and recording their course and the appearance of the country +traversed, and also horses, arms, and accoutrements for four native +blacks, or as they are commonly called in the colonies, Black-boys. +Although the account of poor Kennedy's journey from Rockingham Bay to +Cape York, in which his own and half his party's lives were +sacrificed, was not very encouraging for the intended expedition, Mr. +Jardine never for a moment doubted of its success, and looked forward +to meeting his sons at Somerset as a matter of course. In the prime +of youth and health (their ages were but 22 and 20), strong, active, +and hardy, inured to the life and habits of the bush, with an +instinct of locality, which has been alluded to as having "la +Boussole dans la tete," they were eminently fitted for the task, and +eagerly undertook it when proposed. How well they carried it out, +although, unfortunately, with so little benefit to themselves, is +here recorded. Had poor Wills been associated with such companions +there would have been a different tale to tell to that which lends so +melancholy an interest to his name, and we should now have him +amongst us to honor, instead of a monument to his memory, a monument, +which in honoring the dead, rebukes the living. + +<p>The loss of three-fourths of their horses, and a fifth of their +cattle, together with a large equipment, has made the enterprise of +the Messrs. Jardine, speaking financially, little short of a failure, +but at their age the mind is resilient, and not easily damped by +misfortune. On their return to Brisbane the Government, with kind +consideration, proposed to place such a sum on the Estimates of +Parliament as would indemnify them, and at the same time mark its +sense of the high merit and importance of their journey, but this, +through their father, they respectfully declined, Frank Jardine +giving as his reason, that as the expedition was a private enterprise +and not a public undertaking, he did not consider himself entitled to +any indemnity from the public. Opinions may be divided on such a +conclusion, but in it we cannot but recognise a delicacy and nobility +of sentiment as rare, unfortunately, as it is admirable. Yet, if +they have thus voluntarily cut themselves off from the substantial +rewards which have hitherto recompensed other explorers, they are +still entitled to the high praise and commendation of all who admire +spirit and determination of purpose, and cannot be insensible to +their applause. And it is in recognition that such is their due, +that the writer has undertaken to bring this narrative before the +public. + +<h3>CHAPTER I.</h3> + +<blockquote>Start from Rockhampton -- Alexander Jardine explores the Einasleih -- +Newcastle Range -- Pluto Creek -- Canal Creek -- Basaltic Plateau -- +Warroul Creek -- Parallel Creek -- Galas Creek -- Porphyry Islands -- +Alligators' tracks -- Bauhinia Plains -- Discovers error as to River +Lynd -- Return -- The Nonda -- Burdekin duck -- Simon's Gap -- +Arrival of the cattle -- Preparation for final start.</blockquote> + +<p>On the 14th of May, 1864, the overland party which was to take cattle +to the new settlement at Cape York, was started by Mr. Frank Jardine, +from Rockhampton, under the charge of his brother Alexander. It +comprised ten persons, with thirty-one horses. The instructions were +to travel by easy stages to Port Denison, and there wait the arrival +of the Leader. In the following month, Mr. Jardine, senior, taking +with him his third son John, sailed for Brisbane, and shortly after +from thence to Somerset, Cape York, in the Eagle, barque, chartered +by the Government, for transport of material, etc., arriving there at +the end of June. + +<p>Mr. Frank Jardine, taking with him the surveyor attached to the +expedition, Mr. A. J. Richardson, arrived at Bowen by sea, about the +middle of July, when the party was again moved forward, he himself +starting off to make the purchase of the cattle. Five more horses +were purchased on account of the Government in Bowen, for Mr. +Richardson, making a total of forty-two. The prevalence of +pleuro-pneumonia made it a matter of some difficulty for Mr. F. +Jardine to get suitable stock for his purpose, and caused +considerable delay. Arrangements having at length been made with Mr. +William Stenhouse, of the River Clarke, the party was divided at the +Reedy Lake Station, on the Burdekin, Mr. A. Jardine moving forward +with the pack horses and equipment, leaving the Leader with Messrs. +Scrutton and Cowderoy, and three black boys to muster and fetch on +the cattle. The advance party started on the 17th August, and +arrived at Carpentaria Downs, the station of J. G. Macdonald, Esq., +on the 30th. This was at that time the furthest station to the North +West, and was intended to be made the final starting point of the +expedition, by the permission of Mr. Macdonald, from whom the party +received much kindness. On their way they were joined by Mr. Henry +Bode, a gentleman who was in search of country to occupy with stock. +After remaining in camp at Carpentaria Downs for a few days, Mr. A. +Jardine decided on utilizing the interval, which must elapse before +his brother could re-join him with the cattle, by exploring the +country ahead, so as to faciliate the march of the stock on the final +start. Accordingly, leaving the camp in charge of Mr. Richardson, +with Mr. Binney, and two black boys, he started on the 3rd of +September, taking with him the most trusty of his black boys, "old +Eulah," and one pack-horse, and accompanied by Mr. Bode, who took +advantage of the opportunity to have a look at the country. As Mr. +Bode had his own black boy with him, the party comprised four, with +two pack-horses, carrying provision for three weeks. About the same +time Mr. Macdonald started with a party of three to find a road for +his stock to the Gulf, where he was about to form a station; the +account of which trip has been published bythat gentleman. + +<p>The stream on which Carpentaria Downs station is situated was +supposed to be the "Lynd" of Leichhardt and was so called and known; +but as this was found to be an error, and that it was a tributary of +the Gilbert, it will be distinguished by the name it subsequently +received, the Einasleih. Keeping the right bank of the river which +was running strongly two hundred yards wide, the party travelled six +miles to a small rocky bald hill, under which they passed on the +north side; and thence to a gap in a low range, through which the +river forces its way. Travelling down its bed for a +quarter-of-a-mile, they crossed to its left bank, on to a large level +basaltic plain; but here the extent of the rocky ground made the +travelling so bad for the horses, although shod, that it was +impossible to proceed, and the river was therefore re-crossed. Five +miles more of rough travelling over broken stony ironbark ridges, +brought them to a second gorge, formed by two spurs of a range, +running down to the river banks on either side, where they camped, +having made about 15 miles on a general course of N.W. by N. To the +south of this gorge, and running parallel with the river, is a high +range of hills, which received the name of the Newcastle Range. +(Camp I.) + +<p><i>September</i> 4. -- Resuming their journey, the party passed through a +gap in the northern spur, described yesterday, about a +quarter-of-a-mile from the camp. From this gap a point of the range +on the south side was sighted, running into the river, and for this +they steered. At 4 miles a small lagoon was passed, 300 yards out +from the river, and a quarter-of-a-mile further on, a broad, shallow, +sandy creek(then dry), which was named "Pluto Creek." At 8 miles a +small rugged hill was passed on the left hand, and the point of the +range steered for reached at 9. At 12 a large well-watered creek was +crossed, and the party camped at the end of 18 miles on a similar +one. The general course N.N.W., and lay chiefly over very stony +ridges, close to the river banks. The timber was chiefly box, +iron-bark, and melaleuca, the latter growing in the shallow bed, in +which also large granite boulders frequently occurred. Though +shallow, it contained fine pools and reaches of water, in some of +which very fine fish were observed. Eighteen miles (Camp II.) + +<p><i>September</i> 5. -- After crossing the creek, on which they had camped, +at its junction, the party followed down a narrow river flat for four +miles, to where a large sandy creek joins it from the north. The +steepness of its banks and freedom from fallen timber, suggested the +name of "Canal Creek" -- it is about 80 yards wide. Two miles +further down a small creek joins, and at 12 miles a high rocky hill +was reached. From this hill a bar of granite rock extends across the +river to a similar one on the south side. A fine view was obtained +from its summit showing them the course of the river. Up to this +point the course had been N.W. After passing through a gap, +immediately under and on the north of the rocky hill they were forced +by the river into a northerly course for two miles, at which they +crossed a spur of the range running into it, so rugged that they were +obliged to lead their horses. Beyond this they emerged on to a +basaltic plain, timbered with box and bloodwood, and so stony as to +render the walking very severe for the horses. The basalt continued +for the rest of the day. At about 18 miles a large creek was +crossed, running into an ana-branch. The banks of the river which +border the basaltic plain are very high and steep on both sides. +Running the ana-branch down for four miles, the camp was pitched, +after a tedious and fatiguing day's march. (Camp III.) + +<p><i>September</i> 6. -- The ana-branch camped on last night being found to +run parallel to the course of the river, received the name of +Parallel Creek. Its average width is about 150 yards, well watered, +and full of melaleucas and fallen timber. The country on its north +bank down to its junction with the river 20 miles from the junction +of Warroul Creek, is broken into ridges of quartz and sand-stone, +stony, and poorly grassed. That contained between its south bank and +the river, the greatest width of which is not more than three miles, +is a basaltic plateau, terminating in precipitous banks on the river, +averaging 50 feet in perpendicular height. To avoid the stones on +either side, there being no choice between the two, the party +travelled down the bed of Parallel Creek the whole day. At about 9 +miles stringy bark appeared on the ridges of the north bank. Large +flocks of cockatoo parrots (<i>Nymphicus Nov. Holl.</i>) were seen during +the day, and a "plant" of native spears was found. They were neatly +made, jagged at the head with wallaby bones, and intended for +throwing in the Wommerah or throwing stick. At the end of 20 miles +the party reached the junction of Parallel Creek with the river and +encamped. The general course was about N.W. (Camp IV.) + +<p><i>September</i> 7. -- The party was now happily clear of the basaltic +country, but the travelling was still none of the best, the first +nine miles of to-day's stage being over stony ridges of quartz and +iron-stone, interspersed with small, sandy, river flats. At this +distance a large creek of running water was crossed, and the camp +pitched at about two miles from its junction with the Einasleih. The +creek received the name of Galaa Creek, in allusion to the galaa or +rose cockatoo (<i>Cacatua Rosea</i>), large flocks of which were +frequently seen. The junction of Galaa Creek is remarkable for two +porphyritic rock islands, situated in the bed of the river, which is +here sandy, well watered, and about 300 yards wide. The grass was +very scarce, having been recently burned. The timber chiefly +iron-bark and box. Course N.W. 1/2 W., distance 10 miles (Camp V.) + +<p><i>September</i> 8. -- To-day the river was followed down over low broken +stony ranges, having their crests covered with "garrawan" scrub for 5 +miles, when the party was gratified by an agreable change in the +features of the country. Instead of the alternative of broken +country, stony ridges, or basaltic plains they had toiled over for +nearly 80 miles, they now emerged on to fine open well-grassed river +flats, lightly timbered, and separated by small spurs of ridges +running into them. A chain of small lagoons was passed at 12 miles, +teeming with black duck, teal, wood duck, and pigmy geese, whilst +pigeons and other birds were frequent in the open timber, a sure +indication of good country. At 13 miles a small creek was crossed, +and another at 18, and after having made a good stage of 25 miles the +party again camped on the Einasleih. At this point it had increased +to a width of nearly a mile, the banks were low and sloping, and the +bed shallow and dry. It was still nevertheless, well watered, the +stream, as is not unusual in many of our northern rivers, continuing +to run under the surface of the sand, and requiring very slight +digging or even scratching, to be got at. The general course +throughout the day was about N.W.1/2W. (Camp VI.) + +<p><i>September</i> 9. -- The course down the river was resumed over similar +country to that of yesterday. Keeping at the back of some low +table-topped hills, at 5 miles the party struck a fine clear deep +lagoon, about two miles in from the river, of which it is the +overflow. A chain of small waterholes occurs at 12 miles, which were +covered with ducks and other water-fowl, whilst immense flocks of a +slate-colored pigeon were seen at intervals. They are about the same +size as the Bronzewing, and excessively wild.* The river, when again +struck, had resumed running. It was still sandy and full of the +graceful weeping melaleuca in the bed, where traces of alligators +were observed. The country traversed throughout the day was good, +but the small plains and flats were thought likely to be swampy in +wet weather. Another good stage of 26 miles was made, and the party +again camped on the river. The general course was due west. (Camp +VII.) + +<blockquote>[footnote] * <i>The Phaps Histrionica, or Harlequin Bronzewing.</i></blockquote> + +<p><i>September</i> 10. -- Taking his course from the map he carried, shewing +the river running north-west, and depending on its correctness, Mr. +Jardine bore to the north-west for 15 miles, travelling over sandy +honey-combed rises, and low swampy plains, when he reached a +watershed to the north, which he then supposed must be the head of +Mitchell waters, finding himself misled by his map and that he had +left the river altogether, he turned south by west and did not reach +it before the end of 8 miles on that bearing, when the party camped +on a small ana-branch. The true course of the river would thus be +about W. by N. Total distance 23 miles. (Camp VIII.) + +<p><i>September</i> 11. -- This day's journey was over fine country. The +first course was N.W. for about 5 miles, to a large round shallow +lagoon, covered with quantities of wild fowl, and thence, following +the direction of the river into camp about 13 miles, over a +succession of large black soil plains covered with good grasses, +mixed herbs, and salt bush. The principal timber being bauhinia, +suggested the name of "Bauhinia Plains." Their width back from the +river extended to an average of six miles, when they were bounded by +low well-grassed iron-bark ridges. The river was broad and sandy, +running in two or three channels, and occasionally spreading into +long reaches. Large ana-branches, plentifully watered, left the main +channel running back from it from 1 to 3 miles. A great many fishing +weirs were observed in the channels of the river, from which it would +appear that the blacks live much, if not principally, on fish. They +were well and neatly constructed. (Camp IX.) + +<p><i>September</i> 12. -- Alexander Jardine, having now travelled 180 miles +from Carpentaria Downs, was convinced that the river he had traced +this distance could not be the Lynd of Leichhardt. The reasons which +forced this conclusion on him were three: -- Firstly, the discription +of the country in no wise tallied. Secondly, the course of the river +differed. And thirdly, although he had travelled further to the west +than Leichhardt's junction of the Lynd and Mitchell, he had not even +been on Mitchell waters, the northern watershed he had been on, on +the 10th, being that of a small creek, doubling on itself, and +running into this river. Having thus set the matter at rest in his +own mind, he determined to re-trace his steps, and accordingly +started back this morning and camped at night at the shallow lagoon, +passed the day previous. On the way they shot several ducks and a +bustard. These are very numerous on the plains, but wild and +unapproachable, as they most frequently are in the north. At each +camp on his journey Mr. Jardine regularly marked a tree A.J. and the +number of the Camp. + +<p><i>September</i> 13. -- The party travelled back over Bauhinia Plains, and +camped on the river, near camp 8 of the outward journey. At night +they went fishing, and got a number of fine perch, and a small +spotted fish. Distance 24 miles. + +<p><i>September</i> 14. -- To-day the party saw blacks for the first time +since leaving Carpentaria Downs. They "rounded them up," and had a +parley, without hostility on either side, each being on the +defensive, and observing the other. They bore no distinctive +character, or apparent difference to the Rockhampton tribes, and were +armed with reed speers and wommerahs. For the first time also they +met with the ripe fruit of the Palinaria, the "Nonda" of Leichhardt. +The distance travelled was 27 miles, which brought them to the 7th +camp on the outward journey. + +<p><i>September</i> 15. -- Following up the course of the river, the 6th camp +was reached in 26 miles, where the feed was so good that Mr. Jardine +determined to halt for a day and recruit the horses. On the way they +again passed some natives who were fishing in a large lagoon, but +shewed no hostility. They had an opportunity of seeing their mode of +spearing the fish, in which they used a long heavy four-pronged +spear, barbed with kangaroo bones. + +<p><i>September</i> 16. -- Was spent in fishing and hunting, whilst the +horses luxuriated in the abundant feed. They caught some perch, and +a fine cod, not unlike the Murray cod in shape, but darker and +without scales. At night, there being a fine moonlight, they went +out to try and shoot opossums as an addition to the larder, but were +unsuccessful. They appeared to be very scarce. + +<p><i>September</i> 17. -- Resuming their journey, the party travelled 21 +miles, to a spot about 4 miles below No. 5 camp, on Gaala Creek, and +turned out. Here they met with wild lucerne in great abundance, and +a great deal of mica and talc was observed in the river. During the +day Mr. Jardine shot a bustard, and some fish being again caught in +the evening, there was high feeding in camp at night. The bagging of +a bustard, or plain turkey as it is more commonly called, always +makes a red day for the kitchen. Its meat is tender and juicy, and +either roasted whole, dressed into steaks, or stewed into soup, makes +a grateful meal for a hungry traveller. + +<p><i>September</i> 18. -- Keeping out some distance from its banks to avoid +the stones and deep gullies, the party followed up the river to the +junction of Parallel Creek: this was traced, keeping along its bed +for the same reason, by which course only they were enabled to avoid +them. These, as before described, were very thickly strewn making +the journey tedious and severe on the horses, so that only 14 miles +were accomplished, when they camped on a large waterhole five miles +above the junction. The beautiful Burdekin duck (<i>Tadorna Radjah</i>) +was met with, of which Mr. Jardine shot a couple. + +<p><i>September</i> 19. -- Still keeping along the bed of Parallel Creek, the +party travelled up its course. This they were constrained to do, in +consequence of the broken and stony banks and country on the east +side, whilst an abrupt wall of basalt prevented them leaving the bed +on the west. At 13 miles they camped for a couple of hours in the +middle of the day, on a large creek which received the name of +Warroul Creek, suggested by their finding two large "sugar bags" or +bees' nests on it, "Warroul" being the name for bee in the Wirotheree +or Wellington dialect. Warroul Creek runs into Parallel Creek from +the south-east, joining it about half-a-mile below where it leaves +the river, it being as before mentioned an ana-branch of the +Einasleih. Leaving Parallel and travelling up Warroul Creek, in 8 +miles they reached the gap in the range 12 miles below camp No. 2. +This afterwards received the name of Simon's Gap, and the range it +occurs in, Jorgensen's Range, after Simon Jorgensen, Esq., of +Gracemere. Two miles, from the gap they struck a large round swamp +which had not been observed on the down journey, the party having +kept close to the river, from which it is distant two miles. This +was named "Cawana Swamp" There being good grass there, they camped. +Native companions (<i>Crus Australalasinus</i>) and the more rare jabiru +(<i>Myeteria Australis</i>) were very numerous on it. Total distance 23 +miles. + +<p><i>September</i> 20. -- To-day the party made the lagoon mentioned on the +4th inst., a distance of 27 miles, traversing nearly the same ground +already described and camped. They again saw a mob of blacks fishing +in the river, who, on seeing them, immediately decamped into the +ranges on the opposite side and disappeared. The next day, Mr. +Macdonald's station, Carpentaria Downs was reached in 17 miles, the +little party having travelled over nearly 360 miles of ground in 18 +days. Mr. Jardine found all well at the main camp, but no sign of +his brother with the cattle; fifteen days passed before his arrival, +during which time Alexander Jardine plotted up the courses of his +journey down the Einasleih, and submitted the plan to Mr. Richardson, +without, however, shaking the gentleman's faith as to his position, +or that they were on Leichhardt's Lynd, preferring to dispute the +accuracy of the reckoning. It will be seen, however, that the +explorer was right, and the surveyor wrong. It being expedient that +the party should husband their rations for the journey until the +final start, Mr. Macdonald kindly supplied them with what was +necessary for their present wants, thus allowing them to keep their own +stores intact. + +<p>On the 6th of October, Frank Jardine made his appearance with the +cattle, a mob of about 250 head of bullocks and cows in good +condition. The ensuing three days were spent by the brothers in +shoeing the horses, a job of no little tedium and difficulty, they +being the only farriers of the party. There were 42 head to shoe, +many of which had never been shod before, and as the thermometer +stood at 100 degrees in the shade most of the day, their office was +no sinecure; they had at first some difficulty in getting a +sufficient heat, but after a little experimenting found a wood of +great value in that particular. This was the apple-gum, by using +which, they could if necessary get a white heat in the iron. At the +end of the third day the last horse was shod, and it only remained to +get the stores and gear together, and dispose them on the different +packs. This was done on the 10th, on the evening of which they were +ready for the final start. The party was thus composed: Frank +Lacelles Jardine, Leader; Alexander Jardine, Archibald J. Richardson, +Government Surveyor; C. Scrutton, R. N. Binney, A. Cowderoy, Eulah, +Peter, Sambo and Barney, black boys from the districts of Rockhampton +and Wide Bay; 41 picked horses and 1 mule, all in good order and +condition. + +<p>Their provision was calculated to last them 4 months, and was +distributed together with the tools, amunition, and camp necessaries +on 18 packs, averaging at the start about 150 lbs. each. It +consisted of 1200 lbs. flour, 3 cwt. sugar, 35 lbs. of tea, 40 lbs. +currants and raisins, 20 lbs. peas, 20 lbs. jams, salt, etc. The +black troopers were armed with the ordinary double-barrelled police +carbine, the whites carrying Terry's breech-loaders, and Tranter's +revolvers. They had very ample occasion to test the value and +efficiency of both these arms, which, in the hands of cool men, are +invaluable in conflict. + +<p>The personalities of the party were reduced to a minimum, and what +was supposed to be absolutely necessary, one pack (the mule's) being +devoted to odds and ends, or what are termed in bush parlance, +<i>manavlins</i>. Three light tents only were carried, more for +protecting the stores than for shelter for the party. + +<p>All were in excellent health, and good spirits, and eager to make a start. + +<h3>CHAPTER II.</h3> + +<blockquote>Start from Carpentaria Downs -- Order of Travel -- Canal Creek -- +Cawana Swamp -- Simons' Gap -- Cowderoy's Bluff -- Barney's Nob -- +Casualties in Parallel Creek -- Basaltic Wall -- Singular Fish -- +Black Carbonado -- Improvement in Country -- Search for the Lynd -- +Doubts -- First rain -- Error of Starting point -- Large ant-hills -- +Ship's iron found -- Native nets -- Second start in search of Lynd -- +Return -- Byerley Creek -- The whole party moves forward -- Belle +Creek -- Maroon Creek -- Cockburn Creek -- Short Commons -- Camp +Burned -- The Powder saved -- Maramie Creek -- The Staaten -- First +hostility of Natives -- Poison -- "Marion" abandoned -- Conclusion as +to River -- Heavy rain -- First attack of Natives -- Horses lost -- +Barren Country -- Detention -- Leader attacked by Natives -- +Black-boy attacked -- A "growl" -- Mosquitoes and flies -- Kites -- +Cattle missing -- Horses found -- Leader again attacked -- Main party +attacked -- Return to the River -- Character of Staaten -- Lagoon +Creek -- Tea-tree levels -- Junction of Maramie Creek -- Reach head +of tide -- Confirmation of opinion.</blockquote> + +<p><i>October</i> 11. -- At sunrise the cattle was started with Cowderoy and +two black-boys, Eulah and Barney, the former acting as pilot. Their +instructions were to camp at the swamp at the junction of Pluto +Creek, seventeen miles from McDonald's station, mentioned on 3rd. +September. The pack-horses were not got away until half-past 12, +two, "Rasper," and the mule (as often provokingly happens when most +wanted) being astray, and having to be hunted for. There was also +the usual amount of "bucking" incident to a start, the unpractised +pack-horses rebelling against the unwonted load and amount of gear, +and with a few vigorous plunges sending pack-bags, pots, hobbles, and +chains in scattered confusion all round them. Few starts of a large +party occur without similar mischances, but a day or two, suffices +for the horses to settle to their work, after which all goes +smoothly. The country travelled has been described in the preceding +chapter. A hill at five miles on Pluto Creek, received the name of +Mount Eulah. On reaching the swamp, the brothers found the cattle +party had not arrived. This was the first of many similar annoyances +during the journey. It being between 8 and 9 p.m., it was useless to +think of looking for them at that time of night. They therefore +encamped on the river, intending to return and run the tracks of the +cattle in the morning. The distance travelled was about 20 miles. + +<p><i>October</i> 12. -- Leaving Binney in charge of the horses, with orders +to feed them about the Lagoon, where there was better grass than at +the river, the brothers started at sunrise in quest of the cattle +party. They met them at about five miles up Pluto Creek, which they +were running down. It appeared that Master Eulah, the pilot, had got +completely puzzled, and led the party into the ranges to the +eastward, where, after travelling all day, they had been obliged to +camp about half-way from the station, and without water. He was very +chop-fallen about his mistake, which involved his character as a +bushman. The Australian aborigines have not in all cases that +unerring instinct of locality which has been attributed to them, and +are, out of their own country, no better, and generally scarcely so +good as an experienced white. The brothers soon found water for them +in the creek under Mount Eulah; after which,returning to the camp, it +was too late to continue the journey, particularly as it had been +necessary to send one of "the boys" back for a bag of amunition that +had been lost on the way. This is the work they are most useful in, +as few, even of the best bushmen are equal to them in running a +track. The day's stage of the cattle was about 11 miles. + +<p><i>October</i> 13. -- The cattle started at a quarter-to-six, in charge of +Alexander Jardine and two black-boys, while Frank and the rest of the +party remained behind to pack and start the horses. This at the +commencement was the usual mode of travelling, the horses generally +overtaking the cattle before mid-day, when all travelled together +till they camped at night, or preceded them to find and form the +camp. Two incidents occurred on the way: "Postman," a pack-horse on +crossing a deep narrow creek, fell and turned heels uppermost, where +he lay kicking helplessly, unable to rise, until the pack was cut +clear of him; and "Cerberus," another horse, not liking the +companionship of the mule, took occasion in crossing another creek to +kick his long-eared mate from the top to the bottom of it, to the +intense amusement of the black-boys, who screamed "dere go poor +fellow donkit" with great delight. The whole course was about 11 +miles. The camp on a small dry creek. They procured water in the +main channel of the river, on the south side. During the journey at +every camp where there was timber, Mr. Jardine cut (or caused to be +cut) its number with a chisel into the wood of a tree, in Roman +numerals, and his initials generally in a shield. + +<p><i>October</i> 14. -- The distance travelled to-day was only 11 miles, but +described by Mr. Jardine, as equal to 20 of fair travelling ground. +The course lay over very stony quartz and granite ridges, which could +not be avoided, as they ran into the river, whilst the bed of the +stream would have been as difficult, being constantly crossed by +rocky bars, and filled by immense boulders. The grass was very +scarce, the blacks having burnt it all along the river. There were +patches where it never grows at all, presenting the appearance of an +earthern floor. They encamped at the junction of Canal Creek, under +the shade of some magnificent Leichhardt trees (<i>Nauclea +Leichhardtii</i>) that grow there, without other water than what they +dug for in the sandy bed, and reached at a depth of two feet. On the +opposite side and about a mile from the junction there is a swamp, +splendidly grassed, which looked like a green barley field, but the +water was too salt for the horses to drink, an unusual thing in +granite country. The timber of the ridges was cheifly stunted hollow +iron-bark, that of the river, bloodwood, and the apple-gum, described +as so good for forging purposes; there was a total absence of those +tall well-grown gums, by which the course of a stream may usually be +traced from a distance. So little was the river defined by the +timber that it could not be distinguished at a half-a-mile away. + +<p><i>October</i> 15. -- The party moved to-day as far as the swamp mentioned +on the 19th September. It received the name of "Cawana Swamp," and +is described as the best and prettiest camping place they had yet +seen. It is surrounded by the high stoney range called Jorgensen's +Range on two sides, north and east, whilst on the south and east it +is hemmed in by a stretch of cellular basalt, which makes it almost +unapproachable. The only easy approach is by the river from the +westward. It is six miles round, and so shallow that the cattle fed +nearly a mile towards the middle. The party travelled out of the +direct course to avoid the stones, keeping the narrow flats occuring +between the river and ridges, which averaged about 200 yards in +width; when intercepted by the ridges running into the river, they +followed down its bed which is more clearly defined by oak +(<i>Casuarinae</i>) and Leichhardt trees than up the stream. The improved +travelling allowed them to make the stage of 9 miles in less than +four hours, and turn out early. Several large flocks of galaas +(<i>Cacatua Rosea</i>,) were seen, and Alexander Jardine shot a wallaby. +Before starting, Barney, one of the black-boys had to be corrected by +the Leader for misconduct, which had the effect of restoring +discipline. On reaching Cawana Swamp, the fires of the natives were +found quite fresh, from which it would seem that they had decamped on +the approach of the party, leaving plenty of birrum-burrongs, or +bee-eaters (<i>Merops Ornatus, Gould</i>) behind them. An observation +taken at night gave the latitude 18 degrees 1 minute 59 seconds, +which gave about 41 miles of Northing. + +<p><i>October</i> 16. -- The cattle were started away at a quarter-to-four +o'clock, this morning, and found an excellent passage through +Jorgensen's Range, by "Simon's Gap." The track from this point to +the junction of Warroul and Parallel Creeks with the river (where the +camp was pitched) was very winding, from having to avoid the basalt, +which was laming some of the cattle, besides wrenching off the heads +of the horse-shoe nails: it could not be altogether avoided, and +made it past noon before the cattle reached the camp. A native +companion, a rock wallaby, and a young red kangaroo were the result +of the hunting in the afternoon, which saved the necessity of having +to kill a beast: this would have been specially inconvenient, if not +impossible here, for the natives had burnt all the grass, and there +was not a bite of feed for either horses or cattle, had they halted. +About 50 blacks, all men, followed the tracks of the party from +Cawana Swamp: they were painted, and fully armed, which indicated a +disposition for a "brush" with the white intruders; on being turned +upon, however, they thought better of it, and ran away. The camp was +formed under a red stony bluff, which received the name of +"Cowderoy's Bluff," after one of the party; whilst a large round hill +bearing E.N.E. from the camp was called "Barney's Nob." In the +afternoon Mr. Binney and Eulah were sent to the river to fish, but as +they ate all the caught, there was no gain to the party. For this +their lines were taken from them by Mr. Jardine, and they got a +"talking to," the necessity for which was little creditable to the +white man. The thermometer at 5 a.m. stood at 80 degrees. The day's +stage about 10 miles N.N.W. Some banksias, currijong, and +stringy-bark were noticed to-day, the latter is not a common timber +in the northern districts. + +<p><i>October</i> 17. -- All the horses were away this morning: as might +have been expected, the poor hungry creatures had strayed back +towards the good feed on Cawana Swamp, and were found 5 miles from +the camp. The day's stage was the worst they had yet had. The +country down Parallel Creek has already been described, and it took +six of the party five hours to get the cattle over three-and-a-half +miles of ground: the bed of the creek, by which alone they could +travel was intersected every 300 or 400 yards by bars formed of +granite boulders, some of which were from 25 to 30 feet high, and +their interstices more like a quarry than anything else; over these +the cattle had to be driven in two and sometimes three lots, and were +only travelled 8 miles with great difficulty. There were several +casualties; "Lucifer," one of the best of the horses cut his foot so +badly, as to make it uncertain whether he could be fetched on; and +two unfortunate cows fell off the rocks, and were smashed to pieces. +The cows were beginning to calve very fast, and when the calves were +unable to travel, they had to be destroyed, which made the mothers +stray from the camp to where they had missed them; one went back in +this manner the previous night, but it was out of the question to +ride thirty miles after her over the stones they had traversed. The +camp was made in the bed of Parallel Creek, at a spot where there was +a little grass, the whole stage having been almost without any. Here +the basaltic wall was over 80 feet in height, hemming them in from +the west; on some parts during the day it closed in on both sides. +An observation at night made the latitude 17 degrees 51 minutes. A +curious fishwas caught to-day -- it had the appearance of a cod, +whose head and tail had been drawn out, leaving the body round. +(Camp VIII.) + +<p><i>October</i>, 18. -- Another severe stage, still down the bed of +Parallel Creek, from which indeed there was no issue. Frank Jardine +describes it as a "pass or gorge, through the range which abuts on +each side through perpendicular cliffs, filling it up with great +blocks of stone," and adding that "a few more days of similar country +would bring their horses to a standstill." Their backs and the feet +of the cattle were in a woeful plight from its effects: one horse +was lost, and a bull and several head of cattle completely knocked +up. Bad as yesterday's journey was, this day's beat it; they managed +to travel ten miles over the most villanous country imaginable, with +scarcely a vestage of grass, when the camp was again pitched in the +bed of the creek. A large number of natives were seen to-day -- one +mob was disturbed at a waterhole, where they were cooking fish, which +they left in their alarm, together with their arms. The spears were +the first that had been observed made of reed, and a stone tomahawk +was seen, as large as the largest-sized American axe. These blacks +were puny wretched-looking creatures, and very thin. They had a +great number of wild dogs with them -- over thirty being counted by +the party. 10 miles, N.W. by W. 1/2 W. (Camp IX.) + +<p><i>October</i> 19. -- The confluence of Parallel Creek with the Einasleih +was reached in four miles, after which the country on the river +slightly improved; the camp was pitched four miles further on, on a +river flat, within sight of a large scrub, on the east side. Four of +the cattle that had been knocked up yesterday were sent for before +starting, and fetched -- the cattle counted and found correct. The +river at the camp was about 700 yards wide, with fine waterholes in +it, containing plenty of fish. A strange discovery was made to-day. +At a native fire the fresh remains of a negro were found <i>roasted</i>, +the head and thigh bones were alone complete, all the rest of the +body and limbs had been broken up, the skull was full of blood. +Whether this was the body of an enemy cooked for food, or of a friend +disposed of after the manner of their last rites, must remain a +mystery, until the country and its denizens become better known. +Some spears were found pointed with sharp pieces of flint, fastened +on with kangaroo sinews, and the gum of the Xanthorea, or grass-tree. +(Camp X.) + +<p><i>October</i> 20. -- The last of the stony ground was travelled over +to-day, and the foot-sore cattle were able to luxuriate in the soft +sandy ground of the river flats. At about 6 miles Galaa Creek was +crossed at Alexander Jardine's marked tree (V in a square), and the +Rocky Island at its junction, before mentioned, were seen. At this +point the ranges come into the river on each side. The camp was +pitched at about five miles further on, at a fine waterhole, where +there was good grass -- a welcome change for cattle and horses. It +was not reached, however, till about 9 o'clock. The river afforded +the party some fine fish -- cod, perch, and peel, and a lobster +weighing more than half-a-pound. Its channels were very numerous, +making altogether nearly a mile in width. Scrub was in sight during +the whole of the stage, the crests of the broken ridges being covered +with garrawon. (Camp XI.) + +<p><i>October</i> 21. -- Mr. Jardine describes to-day's stage as the best the +cattle had experienced since taking delivery of them 230 miles back; +the river banks along which they travelled were flat and soft, +lightly timbered with box, poplar-gum and bloodwood. From a low +table-topped range, which they occasionally sighted on the right, +spurs of sandstone ran into the river at intervals, but were no +obstruction. A cow had to be abandoned knocked up. A couple of +blacks were surprised in the river spearing fish; they set up a howl, +and took to the river. In the evening the whole of the party went +fishing for the pot, there being no meat left. (Camp XII.) Distance +11 miles. The weather to-day was cloudy for the first time, shewing +appearance of rain. + +<p><i>October</i> 22. -- The river was travelled down for 10 miles, through +similar and better country than that of yesterday's stage, and the +camp established on a deep narrow well-watered creek, +three-quarters-of-a-mile from its junction with the river. Here the +Leader determined to halt for a few days to recruit the strength of +the horses and cattle, the feed being good; many of the cattle were +lame, two of the hacks were knocked up, and several of the +pack-horses had very sore backs, so that a "spell" was a necessity. +They were now 120 miles from Macdonald's station, having averaged ten +miles a-day since the start + +<p><i>October</i> 23. -- The camp was established at this point (Camp XIII.) +pending a reconnaissance by the Leader and his brother to find the +Lynd of Leichhardt, and determine the best line of road for the +stock. A couple of calves were killed, cut up, and jerked, whilst +some of the party employed themselves in the repairs to the saddlery, +bags, etc., and Alexander Jardine took a look at the country back +from the river. Mr. Richardson plotted up his course, when it was +found that it differed from that of the brothers by only one mile in +latitude, and two in longitude; he also furnished the Leader with his +position on the chart, telling him that the Lynd must be about ten +miles N.E. of them, their latitude being 17 degrees 34 minutes 32 +seconds S.* + +<blockquote>[footnote] *In Mr. Richardson's journal he mentions the distances as +18 to 20. He also explains that he had two maps, in which a +difference of 30 miles in longitude existed in the position of their +starting point. Not having a Chronometer to ascertain his longitude +for himself, he adopted that assigned by the tracing furnished from +the Surveyor-General's Office.</blockquote> + +<p><i>October</i> 24. -- The brothers started this morning, taking with them +Eulah, as the most reliable of the black-boys; they were provisioned +for five days. The cattle were left in charge of Mr. Scrutton: the +feed being good and water plentiful, the halt served the double +purpose of recruiting their strength, and allowing the Leader to +choose the best road for them. Steering N.E. by E. at a mile, they +passed through a gap in the low range of table-topped hills of red +and white sandstone which had been skirted on the way down: through +this gap a small creek runs into the river, which they ran up, +N.N.E., 3 miles further, on to a small shallow creek, with a little +water in it. Travelling over lightly-timbered sandy ridges, barren +and scrubby, but without stone, at 9 or 10 miles they crossed the +head of a sandy creek, rising in a spring, about 60 yards wide, +having about 5 or 6 inches of water in it. The creek runs through +mimosa and garrawon scrub for 5 miles, and the spring occurs on the +side of a scrubby ridge, running into the creek from the west. At 18 +miles they struck an ana-branch having some fine lagoons in it, and +half-a-mile further on a river 100 yards wide, waterless, and the +channels filled up with melaleuca and grevillea; this, though not +answering to Leichhardt's description, they supposed to be an +ana-branch of the Lynd; its course was north-west. They followed its +left bank down for three miles, then crossing it, they bore N.N.E. +for four miles, through level and sometimes flooded country, when +their course was arrested by a line of high ridges, dispelling the +idea that they were on the Lynd waters. Turning west they now +travelled back to the river, and crossing it, camped on one of the +same chain of lagoons which they first struck in the morning, and in +which they were able to catch some fish for supper. The distance +travelled was 28 miles. + +<p><i>October</i> 25. -- It was impossible to believe that the stream they +were now camped on was the Lynd. Leichhardt's description at the +point where they had supposed that they should strike it, made it +stony and timbered with iron-bark and box. Now, since leaving the +Einasleih they had not seen a single box or iron-bark tree, or a +stone. Frank Jardine therefore determined to push out to thenorth-east, +and again seek this seemingly apocryphal stream. After travelling +for eight miles through sandy ridges, scrubby and timbered with +blood-wood, messmate, and melaleuca (upright-leaved) they struck a +sandy creek, bearing north; this they followed for five miles, when +it turned due west, as if a tributary of the stream they had left in +the morning. Having seen no water since then, it was out of the +question to attempt bringing the cattle across at this point. It was +determined therefore that they should return and mark a line from the +Einasleih to the lagoons they had camped on last night, along which +cattle could travel slowly, whilst the brothers again went forward to +look for a better road from that point, and ascertain definitely +whether they were on the Lynd or not. Turning west they travelled 28 +miles to the creek they had left in the morning, striking it more +than 40 miles below their camp, when, to their surprise it was found +running nearly due south and still dry. Here they camped and caught +some fish and maramies (cray-fish) by puddling a hole in the creek, +which, with three pigeons they shot, made a good supper. At night a +heavy thunder-storm broke over them, which lasted from 9 till 12. +Frank Jardine here states himself to have been exceedingly puzzled +between Leichhardt and Mr. Richardson; one or the other of these he +felt must be wrong. Leichhardt describes the stream in that latitude +(page 283 Journal) as stony, and with conical hills of porphyry near +the river banks, "Bergues" running into it on each side. They had +not seen a rise even, in any direction for miles, whilst the creek +presented only occasional rocks of flat water-worn sandstone, and the +screw-palm <i>Pandanus Spiralis</i> occurred in all the water-courses, a +tree that from its peculiarity would scarcely have been unnoticed or +undescribed. As it was quite unlikely that he should have +misrepresented the country, the natural presumption was, that Mr. +Richardson must have been in error as to their true position; this +was in reality the case, the error in his assumed longitude at +starting causing his reckoning to overlap the Lynd altogether. This +is easily seen and explained now, but was at that time a source of +great uncertainty and anxiety to the explorers. + +<p><i>October</i> 26. -- Crossing over to the west bank of the river, the +brothers followed it up the whole day along its windings, the general +course being from South-east to East for above 36 miles. They saw +none of the porphyry cliffs described by Leichhardt, or stone of any +kind. The country traversed, consisted of scrubby flats, and low +sandy ridges, timbered with bloodwood, messmate, mimosa, melaleuca, +grevillea, and two or three species of the sterculia or curriijong, +then in full blossom. Thick patches of a kind of tree, much +resembling brigalow in its appearance and grain, were seen on the +river banks; but the box, apple-gum, and iron-bark, mentioned by +Leichhardt as growing in this latitude were altogether wanting. +Large ant-hills, as much as 15 feet in height, which were frequent, +gave a remarkable appearance to the country. During their stage the +party came on to a black's camp, where they found some matters of +interest. The natives, who were puddling a waterhole for fish, had, +as was most frequent, decamped at their appearance, leaving them +leisure to examine some very neatly made reed spears, tipped +variously with jagged hardwood, flint, fish-bones, and iron; pieces +of ship's iron were also found, and a piece of saddle girth, which +caused some speculation as to how or where it had been obtained, and +proving that they must at some time have been on the tracks of white +men. Their nets excited some admiration, being differently worked to +any yet seen, and very handsome; a sort of chain without knots. The +camp was made on an ana-branch of the river, were the travellers +caught a couple of cod-fish. Their expertness as fishermen was a +great stand-by, for they had started without any ration of meat. +They experienced some heavy wind and a thunderstorm at night. + +<p><i>October</i> 27. -- Still travelling up the river, the party in about 9 +miles reached the lagoons where they were first struck, and turned +out for a couple of hours. There was good feed round them, in which +the horses solaced themselves, whilst their riders caught some fish +and shot some pigeons for dinner, after which they commenced blazing +the line for the cattle. They reached the main camp at 9 o'clock at +night, having in eight hours marked a line through the best of the +sandy tea-tree ridges, between 18 and 20 miles in length; no +despicable work for three tomahawks. Mr. Jardine communicated the +result of his trip to Mr. Richardson, but that gentleman could or +would not acquiesce in the opinion arrived at by the brothers, +despite the very conclusive arguments with which it was supported. +This opposition occasioned a feeling of want of confidence, which +caused them to cease consulting Mr. Richardson on their course, +leaving him merely to carry out the duty of his appointment. + +<p><i>October</i> 28. -- The following day was spent in camp, preparatory to +a fresh start ahead of the cattle, which, it was decided should leave +this camp on the 31st. Some of them could scarcely move, but their +number were found correct on counting. + +<p><i>October</i> 29. -- Again taking old Eulah with them, the brothers +started on another quest for the Lynd, which, like the mirage of the +desert, seemed to recede from them as they approached; setting out +late in the day, they camped at night once more on the lagoon, at the +end of their marked-tree line, a distance of about 18 miles. They +took with them four days' rations of flour, tea, and sugar, trusting +to their guns and fishing lines for their supply of meat. + +<p><i>October</i> 30. -- Starting at half-past 6 in the morning the little +party steered N. by W. about 36 miles. At about three-quarters +of-a-mile from the river they passed a fine lagoon, and at four miles +further on a rocky creek running west with some water in it. Their +way lay over soft, barren, sandy ridges, timbered with tea-tree. +Eight miles more brought them to a creek where water could be +obtained by digging, and at 24 miles further they camped on a large +well-watered creek, running N.W.; the whole of the distance was over +the same soft, barren, monotonous country. On their way they killed +an iguana (<i>Monitor Gouldii</i>), which made them a good supper, and +breakfast next morning. The cattle party at No. 13 Camp were left +with instructions to follow slowly along the marked-tree line, to +camp at the lagoon, and there await the return of the advance party. + +<p><i>October</i> 31. -- An early start was made this morning at a quarter +after 6, and 20 or 22 miles were accomplished on the same bearing as +that of yesterday, N. by W., over the same heavy barren stringy-bark +country. Three small creeks were crossed, but not a hill or rise was +to be seen, or any indication of a river to the northward. At this +point the heavy travelling beginning to tell on their jaded horses, +the Leader determined on abandoning the idea of bringing the cattle +by the line they had traversed, and turning south and by west made +for the river they had left in the morning, intending to ascertain if +it would be the better route for the cattle, and if not, to let them +travel down the supposed Lynd (which now received the name of +Byerley Creek), on which they were to rendezvous. After travelling +16 miles further on the new bearing, they camped without water, being +unable to reach the large creek they had camped on the previous +night. The country along the last course was of the same +description, low, sandy, string-bark, and tea-tree ridges, without a +vestige of water; total distance 38 miles. + +<p><i>November</i> 1. -- Making another early start, and steering S.W. by S., +the party reached the creek in four miles, and getting a copious +drink for themselves and their thirsty horses, breakfasted off some +"opossums and rubbish" they got out of a black's camp. The stream +was 100 yards wide, and well-watered, a great relief after their arid +journey of yesterday: large rocks of sandstone occurred inits bed in +different places. Crossing it, they followed down its left bank for +8 miles, its trend being N.W., then turning their back on it, they +steered due south to strike Byerley Creek. Sixteen miles of weary +travelling over wretched barren country brought them to a small sandy +creek, on which they camped, procuring water for their horses by +digging in its bed. Here they made a supper of the lightest, their +rations being exhausted, and "turned in" somewhat disgusted with the +gloomy prospect for the progress of the cattle. They again met with +the nonda of Leichhardt, and ate of its ripe fruit, which is best +when found dry under the trees. Its taste is described as like that +of a boiled mealy potatoe. + +<p><i>November</i> 2. -- Continuing on the same course, due south for 18 +miles, over the same useless country, the party reached Byerley +Creek, striking it at a point 32 miles below the Rendezvous Camp, +then turning up its course they followed it for 16 miles, to their +hunting camp of the 26th October. Here they camped and made what +they deemed a splendid supper off an oppossum, an iguana, and four +cod-fish, the result of their day's sport. Total distance travelled +28 miles. + +<p><i>November</i> 3. -- Following up the creek for 16 miles, the party +reached the main camp on the lagoons early in the day. Here they +found all right, with the exception that most of the party were +suffering from different stages of sandy-blight, or ophthalmia. A +calf was killed, and the hungry vanguard were solaced with a good +feed of veal. Byerley Creek having been found utterly destitute of +grass, badly watered, and moreover trending ultimately to the S. of +W., the Leader determined to take the cattle on to the next, which +was well watered, having some feed on it, and being on the right +course. There were, however, two long stages without water; but it +was, on the whole, the best and almost only course open to him. The +cattle had made this camp in two stages from the Einasleih. It was, +consequently, No. LI. The latitude was found to be 17 degrees 23 +minutes 24 seconds: a tree was marked with these numbers, in +addition to the usual initial and numbers. The Thermometer at +daylight marked 90 degrees, and at noon 103 degrees, in the <i>shade!</i> + +<p><i>November</i> 4. -- A late start was made to-day, a number of the horses +having strayed, and not having been got in. The Brothers went ahead, +and marked a line for five miles out to the creek mentioned on the +30th October: it contained sufficient water for the horses and +cattle, and was the best watercourse they would get until they +reached the next river, a distance of 30 miles. It received the name +of "Belle Creek," in remembrance of "Belle," one of their best +horses, who died at this camp, apparantly from a snake bite, the +symptoms being the same as in the case of "Dora," but the time +shorter. Belle Creek is rocky and tolerably well watered, and +remarkable for the number of nonda trees on it. Whilst waiting for +the cattle the Brothers caught some fish and a fine lot of maramies. + +<p><i>November</i> 5. -- This day appears to have been one of disasters. It +opened with the intelligence that sixteen of the horses were missing. +Leaving one party to seek and bring on the stray horses, the Brothers +started the cattle forward: they left instructions at the camp for +the horses to start, if recovered before 3 o'clock; if not, to be +watched all night, and brought on the next day. They then started, +and preceding the cattle, marked a line for 15 miles to "Maroon +Creek." Here they camped without water, waiting with some anxiety +for the arrival of the pack-horses. Hour after hour passed but none +appeared, and as night closed in, the Brothers were forced to the +conclusion that something must have gone wrong at the camp. They +could not however turn back, as they had to mark the next day's stage +for the cattle to water, there being none for them to-night, and only +a little for the party, obtained by digging, however, they were +relieved by the appearance of a blackboy with rations, who reported +that some of the horses had not been found when he left the camp. +The night was spent in watching the thirsty cattle. + +<p><i>November</i> 6. -- The cattle were started at dawn and driven on to the +watered creek, where they got feed and water at some fine waterholes, +it received the name of "Cockburn Creek;" the Brothers as usual +preceded them and marked a line further ahead. Arrived there, they +spent the rest of the day in fishing whilst uneasily waiting the +arrival of the pack-horses. They luckily caught some fish for +supper, for night fell without the appearance of the remainder of the +party, and they had nothing to eat since the preceding night. The +country has already been described. + +<p><i>November</i> 7. -- To-day was spent in camp by the party whilst +anxiously awaiting the arrival of the pack-horses, but night fell +without their making their appearance. They had nothing to eat, and +as there was no game to be got, they decided on killing a calf, but +in this they were disappointed, as the little animal eluded them, and +bolted into the scrub. They therefore had to go "opossuming," and +succeeding in catching three, which, with a few small fish, formed +their supper. + +<p><i>November</i> 8. -- At daylight this morning, Alexander Jardine +succeeded in "potting" the calf that had eluded them yesterday, which +gave the party a satisfactory meal. Another anxious day was passed +without the arrival of the pack-horses, and the Leader had the +annoyance of finding on counting the cattle, that between twenty or +thirty were missing. Being now seriously anxious about the +pack-horses, he determined if they did not arrive that night, to +despatch his brother to look after them. + +<p><i>November</i> 9. -- The horses not having arrived, Alexander Jardine +started to see what had happened: he met the party with them half +way, and learned some heavy news. In the afternoon of the 5th (the +day on which the Brothers started with the cattle), the grass around +the camp had, by some culpable carelessness, been allowed to catch +fire, by which half their food and nearly all their equipment were +burnt. The negligence was the more inexcusable, as before starting, +Alexander Jardine had pulled up the long grass around the tents at +the camp, which should have put them on their guard against such a +contingency, one for which even less experienced bushmen are supposed +to be watchful during the dry season. The consequences were most +disastrous: resulting in the destruction of 6 bags of flour, or 70 +lbs. each, or 420 lbs., all the tea save 10 lbs., the mule's pack, +carrying about 100 lbs. of rice and jam, apples, and currants, 5 lbs. +gun-powder, 12 lbs. of shot, the amunition box, containing cartridges +and caps, two tents, one packsaddle, twenty-two pack-bags, 14 +surcingles, 12 leather girths, 6 breechings, about 30 ring +pack-straps, 2 bridles, 2 pairs blankets, 2 pairs of boots, nearly +all the black boys' clothes, many of the brothers', and 2 bags +containing nicknacks, awls, needles, twine, etc., for repairs. It +was providential the whole was not burnt, and but for the exertions +of Mr. Scrutton, all the powder would have gone. He is described as +having snatched some of the canisters from the fire with the solder +melting on the outside. They had succeeded in rescuing the little +that was saved by carrying it to a large ant-hill to, windward. +Their exertions were no doubt great and praise-worthy, but a little +common prudence would have saved their necessity, and a heavy and +irreparable loss to the whole party, one which might have jeopardized +the safety of the expedition. Besides this, they had a less +important but still serious loss; "Maroon," a valuable grey sire +horse, that Mr. Jardine hoped to take to the new settlement, died +from the effects of poison, or of a snake bite, but more probably the +former. The pack-horses joined the cattle in the evening. Stock was +taken of the articles destroyed, and the best disposition made of +what remained. The latitude of this camp (XVIII.) was 16 degrees 55 +minutes 6 seconds. + +<p><i>November</i> 10. -- Leaving instructions with the cattle party to +follow down Cockburn Creek, and halt at the spots marked for them, +the Brothers, accompanied by Eulah, started ahead, to mark the camps +and examine the country. By this means no time was lost. The first +three camps were marked at about seven-mile intervals; and at about +25 miles, opposite two small lagoons on the west bank, the Leader +marked trees STOP (in heart), on either side the creek, leaving +directions for the party to halt till he returned, and a mile further +down camped for the night. The banks of the creek were scrubby and +poorly grassed, the country sandy, and thickly timbered with +tea-tree, stringy-bark, and bloodwood, and a few patches of +silver-leaved iron-bark, the nondas being very plentiful along its +course. Large flocks of cockatoo parrots (<i>Nymphicus Nov. Holl.</i>) +and galaas were seen during the day. + +<p><i>November</i> 11. -- Still continuing down the creek the party made a +short stage of 13 miles, one of their horses having become too sick +to travel. The early halt gave them an opportunity to go hunting, +the more necessary as they were again out of meat. The result was an +iguana, a bandicoot, three opossums, and some "sugar bags" or wild +honey nests. + +<p><i>November</i> 12. -- Crossing Cockburn Creek the Brothers bore away +N.N.W. for 9 or 10 miles, over sandy bloodwood ridges, intersected +with broad tea-tree gullies, to two sandy water courses half-a-mile +apart, the first 100 and the second 50 yards in width, running west. +These they supposed to be heads of the Mitchell. Crossing them and +continuing N. by W., they traversed over barren tea-tree levels +(showing flood marks from three to four feet high), without a blade +of grass, for about 16 miles, when they reached the extreme head of a +small rocky creek, where they camped at a waterhole, and caught a +great number of maramies, which suggested the name of "Maramie +Creek." It was quite evident that the cattle could not follow by +this route, as there was nothing for them to eat for nearly the whole +distance. The stage travelled was 26 1/2 miles. + +<p><i>November</i> 13. -- Maramie Creek was followed down for 25 miles: its +general course is west. At three miles from the start a small creek +runs in from the north-east. The Brothers had hoped that the +character of the country would improve as they went down, but were +disappointed. Nothing but the same waste of tea-tree and spinifex +could be seen on either side, the bank of the main creek alone +producing bloodwood, stringy-bark, acacia, and nonda. Though shallow +it was well watered, and increased rapidly in size as they proceeded. +The natives had poisoned all the fish in the different waterholes +with the bark of a small green acacia that grew along the banks, but +the party succeeded in getting a few muscles and maramies. + +<p><i>November</i> 14. -- Being satisfied that the cattle could not be +brought on by the course they had traversed, Frank Jardine determined +to leave Maramie Creek, and make for the large stream crossed on the +12th, so as to strike it below the junction of Cockburn Creek. +Turning due south the party passed a swamp at eight miles, and at +seventeen miles a lagoon, on which were blue lilies (<i>Nymphoea +gigantea.</i>) A mile farther on they reached what they supposed to be +the Mitchell, which was afterwards ascertained to be the Staaten, of +the Dutch navigators, or one of its heads. At the point where they +struck it (about 18 miles below the junction of Cockburn Creek, it is +nearly a quarter-of-a-mile in width, sandy, with long waterholes. A +dense black tea-tree scrub occupies its south bank. It was here that +the party experienced the first decided show of hostility from the +natives. They had seen and passed a number at the lily lagoon +unmolested, but when arrived at the river whilst the leader was +dismounted in its bed, fixing the girths of his saddle, he was +surprised to find himself within 30 yards of a party carrying large +bundles of reed spears, who had come upon him unperceived. They +talked and gesticulated a great deal but made no overt hostility, +contenting themselves with following the party for about three miles +throughscrub, as they proceeded along the river. Getting tired of +this noisy pursuit, which might at any moment end in a shower of +spears, the Brothers turned on reaching a patch of open ground, +determined that some of their pursuers should not pass it. This +movement caused them to pause and seeming to think better of their +original intention they ceased to annoy or follow the little party, +which pursued its way for five miles further, when they camped in the +bed of the stream. Its character for the 8 miles they had followed +it up was scrubby and sandy: its course nearly west -- long gullies +joined it from each side walled with sandstone. They caught two +turtles for supper. Total distance travelled 26 miles. + +<p><i>November 15.</i> -- Making an early start, the party followed up the +Staaten for eight miles, the general course being about N.E. Here it +was jointed by Cockburn creek, which they ran up until they reached +the cattle party encamped at the lagoons, where the Leader had marked +trees STOP. They had reached this place on the 13th inst., without +further accident or disaster, and seeing the trees, camped as +instructed. It was nearly 30 miles from the junction of the Staaten, +the country scrubby, thickly timbered, and very broken. Total +distance 38 miles. + +<p><i>November</i> 16. -- The whole party was moved down Cockburn Creek, that +being the only practicable route. It was the alternative of poor +grass or no grass. The trend of the creek was about N.W. by W. At +twelve miles they encamped on its bed. A red steer and a cow were +left behind poisoned; and another horse, "Marion" was suffering +severely from the same cause. They were unable to detect the plant +which was doing so much mischief, which must be somewhat plentiful in +this part of the country. Leichhardt mentions (page 293) the loss of +Murphy's pony on the Lynd, which was found on the sands, "with its +body blown up, and bleeding from the nostrils." Similar symptoms +showed themselves in the case of the horses of this expedition, +proving pretty clearly that the deaths were caused by some noxious +plant. (Camp XXIII.) + +<p><i>November</i> 17. -- The course was continued down Cockburn Creek. At +six miles a large stream runs in from the S.E. which was supposed to +be Byerley Creek. This however is only an assumption, and not very +probable, as it will be remembered that when the brothers struck it +on the 1st November, 40 miles below camp 15, they were surprised to +find it trending toward the south. It is not improbable that it may +run into the sea between the Staaten and Gilbert. This problem can +only be solved when the country gets more occupied, or some explorer +traces the Staaten in its whole length. Below this junction Cockburn +Creek is from 200 to 300 yards wide, running in many channels, but +under the surface. The country is flat and poorly grassed, a low +sandy ridge occasionally running into the creek. The timber is +bloodwood, string-bark, tea-tree, nonda, and acacia. The party +camped 5 miles further down; poor "Marion" being now past all hope of +recovery had to be abandoned. Three cows that calved at camp 22 were +sent for and brought up. They were kept safely all night, but during +the morning watch, were allowed to escape by Barney. At this camp +(XXIV.) Scrutton was bitten in two or three places by a scorpion, +without however any very severe effects. + +<p><i>November</i> 18. -- Cockburn Creek, now an important stream was +followed down for four miles, when it formed a junction with the +Staaten. The width of the main stream is about 400 yards, in many +channels sandy and dry. It now runs generally west and very winding. +The country and timber were much as before described, with the +exception that a mile back from the river, (a chain of lagoons) +generally occurs, some of them being large and deep and covered with +lilies. Beyond, a waste of sandy tea-tree levels, thickly covered +with triodia or spinifex, and other desert grasses. The green tree +ant was very numerous, particularly in the nonda trees, where they +form their nests. The birds were also very numerous, large flocks of +black cockatoos, cockatoo parrots, galaas, budgerygars or grass +parrots (<i>Melopsittacus Undulatus, Gould</i>), and some grey quail were +frequently seen, and on one of the lagoons a solitary snipe was +found. Another cow was abandoned to-day. The total day's stage was +8 miles. The party camped in the sandy bed of the river. A little +rain was experienced at night. (Camp XXV.) Latitude 16 degrees 32 +minutes 14 seconds. + +<p><i>November</i> 19. -- The party followed down parallel with the Staaten, +so as to avoid the scrub and broken sandstone gullies on the banks. +They travelled for 11 miles, and camped on one of the lagoons above +mentioned. Their course was somewhat to the south of west, so that +they were no nearer to their destination -- an annoying reflection. +In the afternoon some of the party went over to the river to fish. +At this spot it had narrowed to a width of 100 yards, was clear of +fallen trees and snags, the water occupying the whole width, but only +5 feet deep. Up to this time, Frank Jardine had supposed the stream +they were on to be the Mitchell, but finding its course so little +agreeing with Leichhardt's description of it, below the junction of +the Lynd, which is there said to run N.W., he was inclined to the +conclusion that they had not yet reached that river. Mr. Richardson, +on the contrary, remained firm in his opinion that Byerley Creek was +the river Lynd, and consequently, that this stream was the Mitchell, +nor was it till they reached the head of the tide that he was fully +convinced of his error. (See his journal November 18, and December +2.) + +<p><i>November</i> 20. -- To-day the Leader went forward and chose a good +camp, 12 miles on, at some fine lagoons. The cattle followed, +keeping, as usual, back from the river, the interval to which was all +scrubby flooded ground, thickly covered with brush and underwood. +They were however unable to reach the camp that night, for when +within three miles of it a heavy deluge of rain compelled them to +halt, and pitch the tents to protect the rations, all the oilskin +coverings that had been provided for the packs having been destroyed +in the bonfire, on Guy-Faux Day, at camp No. 16. They could hardly +have been caught in a worse place, being on the side of a scrubby +ridge, close to one of the ana-branches of the river. It would seem +that the natives calculated on taking them at a disadvantage, for +they chose this spot for an attack, being the first instance in which +they attempted open hostility. Whilst the Brothers were busily +engaged in cutting out a "sugar bag," a little before sundown, they +heard an alarm in the camp, and a cry of "here come the niggers." +Leaving their <i>sweet</i> occupation, they re-joined the party, in front +of which about 20 blacks were corroboreeing, probably to screw up +their courage. They had craft enough to keep the sun, which was now +low, at their backs, and taking advantage of this position sent in a +shower of spears, without any of the party -- not even the black-boys +-- being aware of it, until they saw them sticking in the ground +about them. No one was hit, but several had very narrow shaves. The +compliment was returned, and as Alexander Jardine describes "<i>exeunt</i> +warriors," who did not again molest them, although they were heard +all around the camp throughout the night. (Camp XXVII.) Course W. +Distance 9 miles. A heavy thunderstorm in the evening. + +<p><i>November</i> 21. - The cattle were started as usual, but as ill-luck +would have it, 13 of the horses were not to be found. After waiting +for them till four o'clock, all the packs and riding-saddles were +packed on the remaining horses, and the party drove them on foot +before them to the camp, at the lagoons, three miles on. It was dark +before they got there, and well into the second watch before the +tents were pitched, and everything put straight. The country +continued the same as before described, a barren waste of tea-tree +levels to the north, obliging them to keep along the river, although +at right angles to their proper course. (Camp XXVIII.) Distance 3 +miles W. + +<p><i>November 22.</i> - The troubles and adventures of the party seemed to +thicken at this point, where the cattle were detained, whilst the +missing horses were being sought for. Old Eulah had come in late the +preceding night empty-handed, he had seen their tracks, but night +coming on he was unable to follow them. He was started away this +morning in company with Peter to pick up and run the trail. At two +o'clock he returned with two, and reported that Peter was on the +trail of the others. They had evidently been disturbed by their +friends the natives, for their tracks were split up, and those +brought on had their hobbles broken. At dusk Peter brought home +three more, without being able to say where the others had got to. +During this time, Frank Jardine had a little adventure to himself; +wishing to find a better run for the cattle, he started about noon, +and rode down the river for about six miles. There was no choice, +the country was all of the same description, so he turned back in +disgust, when, in crossing the head of a sandstone gully, he heard a +yell, and looked round just in time to see a half a dozen spears come +at him, and about a dozen natives around and painted, jumping about +in great excitement. Going forward a little, he got time to clear +the lock of his rifle, from the oil rag which usually protected it. +He turned on his assailants, and sent a bullet amongst them; it hit a +tree instead of a blackfellow, but as they still menaced him, his +next shot was more successful, when seeing one of their number fall, +the rest decamped. It was now their turn to run, but before they +could cross the bed of the river, which was dry, clear, and about 300 +yards wide, he was able to get two good shots at short range. They +did not trouble him again that afternoon. They dropped all their +spears in the "stampede," some of which, reed and jagged, were taken +home as trophies. They used no "wommerahs." Peter came in to camp +at dark, with 3 horses, having no idea where the others had got to; +there were 8 still away. + +<p><i>November</i> 23. - Sambo, the best tracker among the black-boys, was +despatched at sunrise, with Peter, to look for the missing horses. +He returned at sundown with the mule, which he had found on the +opposite side of the river, but he had seen no traces of the rest. +Peter came in after dark, without any, he had seen the tracks of the +natives on the horse tracks, and related in his own jargon, that +"blackfella bin run'em horses all about" and "that bin brok'em +hobble." He had also seen two or three of the blacks themselves, at +the lagoon where the brothers met them on the 14th, and had some +parley with them -- he described them a "cawbawn saucy" "that tell'im +come on, me trong fella, you little fella," and after chaffing him in +their own way, sent as many spears at him as he would stand for. The +detention caused by the loss of the horses, was a serious matter, +whilst the hostility of the natives was very annoying, keeping the +party constantly on the alert. The interval was occupied in patching +up the ration tent, with portions of the other two, so that they had +now one water-proof to protect their stores. Some good snipe and +duck shooting might have been got round these lagoons, but as nearly +all their caps had been destroyed by the fire, it was not to be +thought of. The scarcity of these and of horse-flesh alone prevented +the Brothers from turning out and giving their troublesome enemies a +good drilling, which, indeed, they richly deserved, for they had in +every case been the agressors, and hung about the party, +treacherously waiting for an opportunity to take them by surprise. +The detention also was due to them, which was a matter of some +anxiety to the Leader, when it is considered that the party was in a +level flooded country, without a rise that they knew of within fifty +miles, and that the rains of the last ten days portended the breaking +up the dry season. + +<p><i>November</i> 24. - This morning Frank Jardine went out with Eulah, and +succeded in finding 5 more of the horses, scattered all over the +country, their hobbles broken, and as wild as hawks. He sent Eulah +along the tracks of the last two, who were evidently not far ahead, +and brought the others in himself. These two "Cerebus" and "Creamy," +were the best and fattest of the pack-horses. Their loss would have +made a serious addition to the loads of the remainder, who had +already to share 400lbs. Extra in consequence of the poisoning of the +three already lost. Whilst waiting for and expecting their arrival +every hour, the different members of the party amused themselves as +best they might by fishing, opossum, sugar-bag hunting, and nonda +gathering. The monotony of the camp was also broken by a little +grumbling, consequent on an order from the Leader against the opening +of the next week's ration bag. The party had, during the halt +consumed a week's rations a day and a-half too soon, hence the order, +which was a wise precaution. The rations were calculated with care +to last through the journey, but, unless a restriction had been +placed on the consumption, this could not be hoped for. But it is +difficult to reason with hungry men. + +<p><i>November</i> 25. - Another day passed without finding the two missing +horses. Sambo and Eulah were sent out in quest of them, but returned +unsuccessful, giving it, as their opinion that "blackfella bin 'perim +'longa 'crub." Peter and Barney were then despatched with orders to +camp out that night and look for them all next day. A steer having +been killed last night, the day was passed in jerking him. The day +was very unpropitious as there had been a shower of rain in the +morning, and there was no sun, so it had to be smoked with manure in +one of the tents. What with the mosquitoes and sand-flies, men, +horses, and cattle were kept in a continual fever. The horses would +not leave the smoke of the fires, the cattle would not remain on the +camp, and the men could get no rest at night for the mosquitoes, +whilst during the day the flies were in myriads, and a small species +of gad-fly, particularly savage and troublesome. Another source of +annoyance was from the flocks of crows and kites, the latter (<i>Milvus +Affinis</i>) are described by Leichhardt as being extraordinarily +audacious, during his journey through this part of the country, and +they certainly manifested their reputation now. Not content with the +offal about the camp, they would actually, unless sharply watched, +take the meat that was cooking on the fire. The black-boys killed a +great many with "paddimelon" sticks, and reed spears, (the spoils of +war) but with little effect. "When one was killed, twenty came to +the funeral." Old Eulah was a great proficient in this exercise, and +when in action with his countrymen, was always anxious to throw their +own spears back at them. + +<p><i>November</i> 26. - One of the party went to sleep during his watch last +night, by which fifteen head of cattle were allowed to stray away +from the camp. It was not the first time that this very grave fault +had occurred, the mischief caused by which, can sometimes, hardly be +estimated. In this case, however, it verified the proverb, it is an +ill wind, etc., for whilst looking for the stragglers Frank Jardine +luckily "happened" on the missing horses "Cerebus" and "Creamy" about +7 miles down the river. They had evidently been frightened by the +blacks. Seven of the cattle only were found, leaving eight missing +which was very provoking as it was necessary to shift the camp (on +which they had now been detained six days) for all the stock where +looking miserable. Neither horses nor cattle would eat the grass, +which had ceased to have a trace of green in it, but rambled about +looking for burnt stubble. The day was close and sultry with loud +thunder and bright lightning, which very much frighened the horses. +The natives were heard cooeying all round the camp during the night, +but made no attack, remembering probably the result of the Sunday and +Tuesday previous. + +<p><i>November</i> 27 - Everything was ready to pack on the horses before +daylight this morning, but most provokingly "Cerebus" was again +missing. Leaving orders for the partyto start if he was not +recovered before noon, the Leader pushed on to mark a camp for them. +At about three miles he came on to a chain of fine lagoons, running +parallel to and about four miles from the river. The intervening +country was one tea-tree level all flooded, but a narrow strip of +soft sandy flat occurred on the banks of each, timbered with +blood-wood, stringy-bark, and box. Following these down he marked a +camp at about nine miles, then crossed over to the river to look for +the cattle. He had not followed it far when he saw a mob of blacks. +They did not molest him, so he passed them quietly, as he thought, +but about two miles further on, in some scrubby sandstone gullies, as +he was riding along looking for tracks, a spear whistled past, within +six inches of his face. Pulling up, he saw seven natives, all +standing quietly looking on at the effect of the missile: the fellow +who threw it never threw another. Pursuing his way, pondering on the +fatality that had brought about collisions on two Sundays running, he +met the cattle, and found the party in some excitement; they too had +had a shindy. The natives had attacked them in force, but no one was +hurt, whilst some of their assailants were left on the ground, and +others carried away wounded. It was found that they would not stand +after the first charge -- and a few were hit. (Camp XXIX.) Distance +9 miles. Course W. by N. + +<p><i>November</i> 28. - All hopes of finding the eight missing head of +cattle, lost from camp 28, had to be abandoned, for the reason that +the horse-flesh could not hold out in looking for them. The cattle +were moved down along the lagoons, which in about two miles narrowed +into a defined creek, sandy, with occasional lagoons. This was +explored ten miles by the Leader, and the question as to whether he +should choose that route, or follow the river was decided for him. +The banks were either utterly barren or clothed with spinifex, and +the country on either side the same worthless tea-tree levels. He +was therefore determined to take the cattle back on to the river, +which was not much better, and led them away from their course. The +prospects of the Brothers were rather dispiriting. To attempt +striking north was out of the question, whilst every mile down the +river took them further away from their destination, and their horses +were falling away daily, so much so, that if the feed did not soon +improve, there would not be one capable of carrying an empty saddle. +The rainy season too was at hand, and the level and flooded nature of +the country they were in, would, were they caught there by the +floods, endanger the safety of the party. It was therefore with no +little anxiety that they watched the weather, and searched for a +practicable line which would allow of their steering north. (Camp +XXX.) Latitude 16 degrees 26 minutes 53 seconds. Distance 10 miles, +W. by N. + +<p><i>November</i> 29. - Keeping a south-west course, so as to strike it +lower down, the cattle were again taken on to the river, which they +reached in about nine miles; then travelling about another mile down +its banks, encamped. These were now decidedly more open, and the +country generally improved. The same strip of soft sandy flat about +half-a-mile wide continued, but better grassed, although the spear +grass was far too common. Bloodwood, stringy-bark, applegum and +acacia timbered the north bank; whilst on the south, tea-tree flats, +covered with spinifex, ran close down to the bed, the bank itself +being of red clay. Two channels, together making a width of about +300 yards, formed the bed, which was sandy, and held very little +water on the surface. No large trees occurred, save now and then a +vagrant nonda. Another cow was lost to-day, and "Lottie," a favorite +terrier, was missing. The latitude of Camp 31 was supposed to be 16 +degrees 31 minutes 53 seconds, but doubtful. + +<p><i>November</i> 30. - The river was followed down to-day for 11 miles. It +was very winding and irregular in its width. At the camp it was only +60 yards wide and running in one channel, whilst a mile above, it +measured nearly 400. Its general course was nearly west. The creek +which is formed by the lagoons, on which the party were so long +detained was crossed at about nine-and-a-half miles. The country at +its junction is flooded for a long distance back, and the river bed +sandy and thickly timbered. Although the country generally had +decidedly improved, inasmuch as that it was more open, devoid of +scrub, and the box flats on the river extending further back on each +side, it was by no means good. The flats were very scantily grassed, +chiefly with sour water grasses and spinifex, and shewed by the flood +marks that they must be quite impassable during floods or wet +weather. The dreary tea-tree levels might be seen in glimpses +through the white box of the flats extending far beyond. Several +small swamps were passed during the day, on which ducks and other +water-fowl were very numerous, the stately native companion stalking +near the margins. The large funnel ant-hills occurred from 2 to 15 +feet high. The Fitzroy wallaby was plentiful, and the Leader shot an +emeu. Some large flights of white ibis, and slate-colored pigeons +passed high overhead, flying north, which might be a good indication. +Peter was sent back to seek for Lottie, but returned in the evening +unsuccessful. + +<p><i>December</i> 1. - Maramie Creek was crossed this morning at its +junction with the river, into which it flows in two channels, about +60 or 70 miles from the point where the brothers first struck it on +the 12th of November, while searching for a road to the northward. +Its total width is about 120 yards. The general course of the river +was slightly to the north of west, but very winding, some of its +reaches extended for nearly four miles. Numerous ana-branches +occurred, the flats separating them, being three miles in breadth, +timbered with flooded box and tea-tree, their banks well grassed. It +would be a dangerous country to be caught in by the floods. Two +parties of blacks were passed fishing on the river, but they took no +notice of the party, and were of course not interfered with. They +used reed spears pointed with four jagged prongs, and also hooks and +lines. Their hooks are made with wood barbed with bone, and the +lines of twisted currejong bark. Distance travelled to-day 10 miles. +The Camp XXXIII. in latitude 16 degrees 27 minutes 30 seconds. + +<p><i>December</i> 2. - The river was travelled down through similar country +for eleven miles, when the party reached the head of the tide, and +camped on a rocky water hole in an ana-branch, the river water not +being drinkable. The course was to the southward of west. It was +now beyond a doubt, even to Mr. Richardson, that this river was not +the Mitchell, for neither its latitude, direction, or description +corresponded with Leichhardt's account. It was also perceived that +the longitude of the starting point must have been incorrect, and +very considerably to the westward, as their reckoning, carefully +checked, brought them much too near the coast. The Brothers +therefore became satisfied of what they had long believed, that they +had never been on the Lynd at all, or even on its watershed, and that +what they were on was an independent stream. They therefore named it +the "Ferguson," in honor of Sir George Ferguson Bowen, Governor of +Queensland, but there is little doubt that it is the Staaten of the +Dutch navigators, or at least its southern branch. Should a northern +branch eventually be discovered, which the delta and numerous +ana-branches make a probable hypothesis, the stream explored by the +brothers might with propriety retain the name they gave it. At eight +miles from the start the character of the country changed from the +prevailing flats, to a kind of barren sandstone and spenifex ridges. +On pitching the camp the fishing-lines were put into requisition, but +without success. It is remarkable, that on reaching the salt water, +not far from this spot, Leichhardt was similarly disappointed, after +having counted on catching and curing a good quantity of fish, the +whole day's work of Brown and Murphy being "a small siluus, one +mullet, and some guard-fish," <i>qu.</i> gar-fish. + +<p><i>December</i> 3. - To-day's stage was a short one, and was hoped to have +been the last on this miserable river, which was now looked upon as +undoubtedly the Staaten. It had in some measure improved. The +timber was much larger and finer, and the lagoons extensive and deep. +But a heavy storm which came down, and compelled them to camp early, +soon proved what the country would be in the wet season. With this +one heavy fall of rain it became so boggy that the horses sank in up +to their girths. Hitherto the grass had been so scanty that the +party could not halt for a day to kill. They had consequently been +four days without meat. It was determined, therefore, to stop and +kill a beast, preparatory to a start north, the feed having slightly +improved in common with the timber. In addition to the steer that +was slaughtered, a shovel-nosed shark was caught and jerked in like +manner with the beef. In the afternoon Alexander Jardine explored +down the river for seven miles, seeking for a good spot for turning +off. The country still improved: the river was completely salt, and +in one continuous sheet of running water, in two channels 300 or 400 +yards in width, and together about half-a-mile at the spot where he +turned back. Here it was flat and shallow, and fordable at low +water. Mangroves and salt-water creeks commenced as described by +Leichhardt,* and alligator tracks were seen. (Camp XXXV.) Latitude +16 degrees 26 minutes 39 seconds. + +<blockquote>[footnote] *See Journal, page 320. It was at this point that he +threw away his horse-shoes and other heavy articles.</blockquote> + +<p><i>December</i> 4. - The beef, shark, and a few cat-fish were jerked, and +all the stores and loading spread out and re-distributed on the +packs, and as this put the camp into some confusion, the Leader +thought it well to shift it for a few miles, to let the packs shake +into place before the final start. They therefore moved down three +miles to the commencement of the mangroves, into a patch of the best +feed they had seen since they left the Einasleih. At this point the +banks were very soft and sandy, growing spinifex; the stream in +numerous channels, altogether half-a-mile across, and the tide rose +and fell about twenty-two inches. Here they camped, intending to +make an early start on the following morning. Time was now an object +of the utmost importance to the progress, if not to the safety of the +party: Frank Jardine was aware that the Mitchell, which he had hoped +long ere this to have left behind him, was still ahead, at least 40 +miles away, without certainty of water until it was reached, whilst +if caught by the floods he would probably be stopped by this +important stream. It was with some anxiety therefore that he +hastened preparations for the start. How his hopes were deferred and +how fortune seemed to laugh at his endeavours to push forward on his +course will now be narrated, and it will be seen how good bushmen +with high hearts can overcome obstacles, and meet difficulties that +would appal and baffle ordinary travellers. + +<h3>CHAPTER III.</h3> + +<blockquote>Leave the Staaten -- Half the horses away -- Fresh troubles -- Mule +Lost -- Sambo knocked up -- Search for mule -- Perplexity -- +"Lucifer" goes mad -- Final attempt to recover him -- Marine Plains +-- Search for Deceiver -- Found dead -- Salt Lagoon -- Arbor Creek -- +Country improves -- Good Camp -- Eulah Creek -- The Brothers attacked +-- Reach the Mitchell -- Cow poisoned -- Battle of the Mitchell -- An +ambush -- Extent of flooded Country -- Reach head of tide -- Heavy +rain -- A "Blank run" -- Leave the Mitchell -- Good Coast Country -- +Balourgah Creek -- Blue grass -- Banksia -- The Eugenia -- Green Ant +-- Hearsey Creek -- Holroyd -- Creek Dunsmuir Creek -- Thalia Creek +-- Black boy chased by natives -- Another encounter -- Cattle +scattered by thunder-storm -- Rainy Season -- Macleod Creek -- +Kendall Creek.</blockquote> + +<p><i>December</i> 5. - Turning their backs on the Ferguson or Staaten the +party steered north, and at starting crossed the head of the +sand-flats, described by Leichhardt. The rest of the day's stage was +over sandy ridges covered with tea-tree and pandanus, tolerably +grassed, no creek or water-course of any description occurred along +the line, and the party had to camp without water at about 13 miles: +but as the Leader had not expected to find any at all for at least +40, this was not thought much of. The camp though waterless was well +grassed, and by dint of searching a small pool of slimy green water +was found before dark, about two-and-a-half miles to the N.N.W. in a +small watercourse, and by starting off the black boys, enough was +procured in the "billies" for the use of the party for supper. This +is marked a red day in Frank Jardine's diary, who closes his notes +with this entry. "Distance 13 miles. Course North at last." (Camp +XXXVII.) + +<p><i>December</i> 6. - The satisfaction of the party in getting away from +the Staaten and travelling on the right course was destined to +receive a check, and the Brothers to find they had not yet quite done +with that river. This morning about half the horses were away, and a +worse place for finding them, saving scrub, could hardly be imagined. +It was fortunate that the pool of water mentioned yesterday had been +found, as the cattle would have had to turn back to the river, but +this they were saved from. They were started away for the water at +day-break, in charge of two of the black boys, with instructions to +stay and feed them there until the horses came up or they were +relieved by Binney. No horses coming in, Binney was sent after them. +The Brothers searching for the horses, followed an hour-and-a-half +after, but on arriving at the pool found the cattle and boys but no +Binney. Returning to the camp they instructed the party to shift the +packs to the pool on the twelve horses that had been found. Binney +here came into the camp along the yesterday's tracks. He had missed +the cattle and did not know where he had been to. He was started +again on the cattle track by the Brothers, who then went in search of +more water, sending two more black boys to look for the horses. At +about four miles away they themselves came on to their tracks, which +they ran for about eight miles towards the coast, when they found +six. Continuing to follow the trail they were led to their 35th camp +on the Staaten, when they found three more. Here, as the sun went +down they were obliged to camp, and after short hobbling the horses +laid down by their fire, supperless, and without blankets. They saw +no water through the whole of the day, which was the cause of the +restlessness of the horses the previous night, and of their straying, +in spite of short hobbles. The myriads of mosquitoes too, which now +annoyed them may possibly have contributed to that end. + +<p><i>December</i> 7. - Leaving the nine horses hobbled to feed near the +water the Brothers separated, one taking up and the other down the +river to look for the others, in hopes that they might also have +turned back, but met again in the afternoon, each without success. +Starting back (with the nine recovered yesterday) at about two +o'clock, they returned to the camp, where fresh troubles awaited +them. Only two of the others had been found, and the party with the +pack-horses had succeeded in losing the mule, together with his pack. +Whilst preparing to start they had allowed him to poke away +unperceived in the scrubby timber, and did not miss him till ready to +start. Sambo had been at once despatched on his tracks but had not +yet returned. Binney had lost himself a second time and only +rejoined the camp at dark last night, after having ridden the whole +day, probably in a circle, without finding either horses or water. +The two black boys had been equally unsuccessful. Eulah and Barney +were now despatched with orders to camp out until they found the +missing horses, five of which, besides the mule, still were away. In +the evening Sambo returned quite exhausted for want of water, not +having seen or tasted any, or any food during the too days of his +absence. For an hour after coming into camp he was quite dilirious. +When sufficiently recovered and collected to speak he stated that he +had followed the tracks of the mule (who had evidently been +galloping) through the tea-tree levels, at the back of camp 35, when +he was obliged to turn back for want of water. This accident, the +result of gross carelessness, together with frequent cases of less +importance, induced in the Leader a want of confidence which caused +him great anxiety when away from the party, to which indeed he never +returned without a feeling of disquietude, which was not allayed +until he learned that all was well -- a harassing feeling, which few +but those who have experienced the responsibility of the conduct and +success of a similar expedition can fully appreciate. The water at +this camp was very bad, but still under the circumstances, a great +God-send. There were two holes equi-distant half-a-mile from the one +they were on, up and down the creek. The upper one was the deepest, +having many ducks, terns, and cranes on it. All three were +surrounded with a fringe of green rushes. By digging wells and +allowing the water to drain in, it was drinkable, although very +brackish. (Camp XXXVIII.) Latitude 16 degrees 13 minutes 45 +seconds. + +<p><i>December</i> 8. - At 4 o'clock this morning Alexander Jardine started +with Sambo after the mule. The Leader remained with the party +employing the day in exploring ahead for about 18 miles, in the hope +of finding water for a stage. This was a paramount necessity, for +the weather was so hot and the country so dry that twenty-four hours +without drinking drove the cattle nearly mad, their drivers suffering +almost equally. Finding no water during this search Mr. Jardine was +again in perplexity. Supposing the Mitchell to be 40 or 45 miles +ahead, the cattle could not reach it without water. On the other +hand if the coast were followed, it was probable that on reaching the +Mitchell they would have to trace it up 40 or 50 miles before it +could be crossed. The latter however seemed to be the best course, +if not the only one. The intention of Alexander Jardine was to have +got on to the mule's tracks, and run them over again until he +"pulled" him, but the ground being baked hard, stony, and grassless +Sambo was unable again to pick them up. However, whilst looking for +the mule's tracks they found three more of the horses, on a small +creek, fourteen miles from the camp, which ran into the river below +the last camp on it. He now determined to look for the other two, +and abandon the search after the mule for the present. One of them +"Lucifer" was found at camp 35. He was out of hobbles, and +immediately on being seen, started off at a gallop up the river. His +tracks were followed up to the next camp, six miles, where night +closing in Mr. Jardine was constrained to halt. The wretched animal +had apparently gone mad, probably with drinking salt water. + +<p><i>December</i> 9. - On resuming the search this morning Mr. A. Jardine +met Eulah and Barney. They also, had seen "Lucifer" on the coast, +but could do nothing with him. Detaching Sambo and Barney to +continue the search after the mule, and giving them all the +provision, he took Eulah with him to try once again to recover +"Lucifer." Picking up his trail at last night's camp, where they +left the three recovered horses, they ran it four miles up the river +and came upon him in a patch of scrub; they headed him after a hard +gallop and endeavoured to drive him down to the other horses, but all +to no purpose, they knocked up their horses and were obliged to +abandon the pursuit. He had evidently gone mad. Returning to the +camp they got fresh horses, and returned with the three to the party +of the main camp. + +<p><i>December</i> 10. - The two lost horses ("Lucifer" and "Deceiver") being +Mr. Jardine's best hacks and favourites, he determined to make one +more effort to recover them. Starting with Eulah this morning, he +travelled down the creek on which the cattle were camped for six +miles west, when he reached some large marine plains and downs, so +large, that though they ascended a high tree they could see nothing +between them and the horizon; they were grassed only with spinifex +"and other rubbish." They came on to Lucifer's tracks about 25 miles +from the camp, and found the place where he had been drinking the +salt water and lying down. From thence they followed his tracks for +15 miles through the tea-tree levels, and camped without water, after +having travelled, walking and riding, over between 40 or 50 miles of +the most miserable and desolate country imaginable, without finding +any fit to drink. Meanwhile Alexander Jardine took another cast to +find water and have a look at the coast. He also saw the Marine +Plains, and found them utterly waterless. This decided the question +of the coast-line route. + +<p><i>December</i> 11. - At daylight Mr. Jardine and Eulah again got on to +Lucifer's tracks, but the ground was so hard that they had to run +them on foot and lead their horses. At sun-down they hit camp 33 on +the river, having made only about 20 miles in a straight line. Here +they had a good drink. The water was rather brackish, but after two +days travelling over a parched and arid country, almost anything +would have been acceptable. They turned out and whilst trying to +catch something for their suppers, they saw Lucifer standing within +thirty yards of where their horses were feeding, but the moment he +caught sight of them he again galloped away. Mr. Jardine immediately +jumped on his horse and brought him back to Eulah's, but to no +purpose, for he galloped past without taking the least notice of him, +and as it was now dark they had to let him go. Alexander Jardine +spent the day in searching for water, and was fortunate enough to hit +on a permanent water hole, in a small creek, eight miles N.N.W. from +the camp. This discovery was like a ray of sunshine promising to +help them on their way. At night Sambo and Barney returned, but +without the mule. + +<p><i>December</i> 12. - Lucifer was again followed till mid-day. From the +time that he had left their camp last night he had galloped for 13 +miles without stopping, and when found he was quite white with sweat. +It was quite evident that he was perfectly mad from the effects of +the salt water, so that Mr. Jardine decided to abandon him without +wasting more horse-flesh. He turned therefore to look for the other +horse "Deceiver," expecting to find him in the same state. His +tracks being found shortly afterwards, they followed them for some +distance, when they came on to his dead carcase. The poor brute had +evidently died from want of water; the Leader therefore turned +homewards, hoping, but little expecting to find that the mule had +been found. These losses were a heavy blow, and sadly crippled the +party. Lucifer and Deceiver were the two best riding horses, and the +mule the best pack animal. His own loss was aggravated by his +carrying his pack with him. This carried most of the odd articles +that were hitherto deemed indispensible, but which henceforth they +had per force to dispense with. One pack contained all that remained +of the tea, currants, and raisins, which were saved from the fire, +and two pairs of boots, the only ones the Brothers had; and the other +was filled with oddments, such as files, gimlets, ragstone, steel, +weighing machine, awls, tomahawks, American axes, shoeing tools, and +a number of things "that they could not do without," but perhaps the +most important loss was that of the spade, to which they had many +times been indebted for water. Up to this time, that is to the 37th +camp, the number of the camp had always been cut in the wood of a +tree at each, with a mallet and chissel, these having gone with the +mule's pack the numbers were from this point cut with a tomahawk, but +as Mr. Jardine was expert and careful in its use it is probable that +his marks are but little less legible. The recovery of the mule +being now past all hope the Brothers determined to push on, thankful +that they were certain of water for one stage. It was the more +necessary, as two of the party, Scrutton and Cowderoy, were getting +ill from the effects of the bad water. At this camp Mr. Richardson +fixed the variation at 40 east. He had hitherto used a variation of +6 degrees in his plotting. + +<p><i>December</i> 13. - The Leader intended to have camped to-day on the +creek, found by his brother on the 11th, but whilst ahead looking for +a good camp for the morrow, he came at five miles further on, to what +he took to be the "Rocky Creek" of Leichhardt. He turned back +therefore and fetched the cattle on to it, making 13 instead of 8 +miles. But on turning out it was found that the water was not +drinkable, although the lagoon was covered with nympheas, generally +supposed to grow only in fresh water. These were white instead of +blue, which might be from the effect of the salt. However at a mile +up the creek, a fine reach of good water was found, two miles long +and sixty yards wide. The bed of the creek contained sandstone rock, +was well grassed, and where crossed, ran about east and north. A +fine barramundi was caught in it, and Alexander Jardine shot six +whistling ducks in the first creek. The country traversed to-day +alternated between extensive marine plains, covered with "pigs face," +(<i>Misembrianthemum Iriangularis</i>), and crusted with salt, and low +undulating tea-tree, and banksia ridges. Birds were very plentiful, +large flocks of native companions (<i>Gurus Antigen</i>,) stalked over the +marine plains, and when seen at the distance had the appearance of a +flock of sheep, gigantic cranes, pelicans, and ibis were numerous, +whilst in the lagoons of the creek, nearly every kind of water-fowl +common to Queensland, was found, except the coot and pigmy goose, +plover and snipe were abundant, also the elegant Burdekin duck, and a +small crane was noticed having a dark blue head and body, with white +throat and neck. (Camp XXXIX.) Lat. 16 degrees 3 minutes 38 +seconds. A tree was marked F. J. in heart on one side, and 39 in +square on the other. + +<p><i>December</i> 14. - To-day the party started north-east, the Leader +wishing, if possible, to hit the Mitchell at the head of the tide. +Water was carried in case these should not find any, but the +precaution was fortunately unnecessary. At five miles they crossed a +small creek from the eastward, having one small hole of water in it. +The country to that point was similar to that of yesterday, thence +outward for about 9 miles they traversed box flats, intersected with +low sandy rises, well grassed, and timbered with stringy-bark and +acacia. Another watered creek was crossed at about 9 miles from the +start, and the camp pitched at a round waterhole, in a well-watered +creek at 14 miles. Many gullies were crossed filled with the +screw-palm (<i>Pandanus Spirilas</i>.) The soil of the box flats was a +stiff yellow clay. Hot winds had been prevalent for the last week +from the south-east, which parched and baked everything and made the +mosquitoes very numerous and annoying. (Camp XL.) Latitude 15 +degrees 56 minutes 31 seconds. + +<p><i>December</i> 15. - The grass was so coarse and dry at this camp, that +the precaution was taken of watching the horses all last night, and +the party started this morning by moonlight. For 5 miles they +travelled over box and tea-tree flats, full of funnel ant-hills, +melon and rat-holes, when they reached a narrow deep sandy creek, the +course of which was defined by a line of dark green timber, +presenting a strong and pleasing contrast with any previously crossed +along the "Levels," where they could never be distinguished from a +distance, being fringed with the same kind of timber. It came from +the eastward, was tolerably watered, and presented some bad broken +sandstone country on its north bank. Its shady appearance suggested +the appropriate name of "Arbor Creek." For three miles the route lay +over gullies, spurs, and walls of broken sandstone. The country +beyond opened agreably into flats, which might almost be called +plains, but for the lightly-dotted timber. The grasses though dry, +were finer and better than any seen, since leaving the Einnasleih. +The timber generally was white box, applegum, bloodwood, and +grevillea, and at 11 miles (from camp) the bauhinia, and Bidwill's +acacia commenced, and continued to the 42nd Camp. The flats towards +the end of the stage sloped to the north-east. At 19 miles the party +having accomplished a long stage, Mr. Jardine camped without water, +sending old Eulah to try and find some. He soon returned with the +welcome news that there was a well-watered creek on a-head, so +saddling up again, they drove on and reached it in about three miles. +It was well worth the extra fatigue to the stock. They were rewarded +by an excellent camp, plenty of green grass, open country and water, +which, after a drive of 23 long and dusty miles, was alike acceptable +to men and beasts. The creek received the name of Eulah Creek, in +honor of the discoverer. (Camp XLI.) + +<p><i>December</i> 16. - Between two and three miles of travelling over +flooded box country, having large melon holes in it, brought the +party to a well-watered creek, with vine scrub banks running N. W. +At three more, another and similar one was reached, where the scrubs +on the banks were so thick that the Brothers who were a-head had to +camp, to cut a road through them. This creek appeared to be an +ana-branch. Whilst they were engaged in marking a line for a +crossing place for the cattle, they saw some blacks, and tried to +avoid them, these however ran in the direction of the cattle, and +brandishing their spears laughingly, defied the horsemen, beckoning +them to come on. With this they complied, and turned them back over +the creek, and then sat down awaiting the arrival of the cattle. +They were not allowed to remain long in peace, for the natives, +having left their gins on the other side, swam over the creek and +tried to surround them. Being thus forced into a "row," the Brothers +determined to let them have it, only regretting that some of the +party were not with them, so as to make the lesson a more severe one. +The assailants spread out in a circle to try and surround them, but +seeing eight or nine of their companions drop, made them think better +of it, and they were finally hunted back again across the river, +leaving their friends behind them. The firing was heard by the +cattle party, but before they could come up, the fray was over. In +this case, as in all others, the collision was forced on the +explorers, who, as a rule, always avoided making use of their +superior arms. Leaving the cattle in camp, the Brothers spend the +afternoon in exploring the country a-head for 7 miles. After +crossing the river, the course lay through flooded country (the marks +on the trees being in some cases five feet high, covered with box, +and vine scrub, and the water, grasses, and rushes being matted +together with mud and rubbish,) to a large stream with broad sandy +bed, divided into three channels, altogether about 600 yards wide, +but with little water in them. The banks and islands were covered +with vine scrub, and lined with plum (<i>Owenia</i>,) chestnut +(<i>Castanopermum</i>,) nonda, bauhinia, acacia, white cedar, the corypha +or (fan-leaved palm,) flooded gum, melaleuca (drooping tea-tree,) and +many creepers and shrubs. On the box flats travelled through, some +gunyahs, dams, and weirs were noticed, all constructed of matted +vines and palm leaves, which last grow almost everywhere. One of the +largest of the palms measured 13 1/2 feet at the butt, which is the +smallest end, as they here assume the shape of the bottle tree. This +stream was correctly surmised to be the long desired Mitchell, the +two last creeks being only its ana-branches. Although 10 miles +higher up in latitude 15 degrees 51 minutes 56 seconds it is +described by Leichhardt as being 1 1/2 miles wide. It here measured +as before described only about 600 yards. A number of fish were +caught at the camp. (Camp XLII.) Distance 6 miles. + +<p><i>December</i> 17. - After some little trouble the cattle were crossed +over this branch, a road having to be cut for them through the scrub. +At 5 miles they crossed another main branch about 450 yards wide, and +camped two miles on the other side of it, on a waterhole in a +Leichhardt-tree flat (<i>Nauclea Leichhardtii</i>.) The country was the +same as described yesterday. One of the fattest of the cows died +from the effects of some poisonous herb, not detected. Some turkey's +eggs were found, and a wallaby, with which the vine scrubs were +swarming, was shot. The Torres Straits pigeon (<i>Carpophaga +Luctuosa</i>,) was here met with for the first time on the trip, and +attracted the interest and admiration of the travellers. It is a +handsome bird, about the size of a wonga, the head and body pure +white, the primaries of the wings and edge of the tail feathers +black, and the vent feathers and under tail coverts tinged with a +delicate salmon color. Distance 7 or 8 miles. Course N.N.E. (Camp +XLIII.) + +<p><i>December</i> 18. - The river was followed down to-day for 9 miles +through a complete net-work of ana-branches, gullies, and vine scrubs +to another branch, which may be called the true stream. It was 30 +yards wide, deep, and running strongly. Here the party had to camp +for about 3 hours, whilst the Brothers searched for a good crossing. +The cattle and pack-horses were crossed in safety, but some of the +pack-bags got wetted in the passage. They were travelled another +mile over to a sandstone bar, crossing another deep sheet of water, +that had been previously found. This stream had been explored in +search of a ford for four miles further up but without success. It +continued of the same width and appeared to do so much further. This +day, Sunday, was marked by the severest conflict the travellers had +yet had with the natives, one which may well be degnified by the name +of the "battle of the Mitchell." On arriving at the running stream +before mentioned, whilst the cattle halted, the Brothers and Eulah, +taking axes with them, to clear the scrub, went down to find a safe +crossing. At about a-mile-and-a-half they came on to a number of +blacks fishing, these immediately crossed to the other side, but on +their return, swam across again in numbers, armed with large bundles +of spears and some nullahs and met them. The horsemen seeing they +were in for another row, now cantered forward towards the camp, +determined this time to give their assailants a severe lesson. This +was interpreted into a flight by the savages, who set up a yell, and +re-doubled their pursuit, sending in their spears thick and fast. +These now coming much too close to be pleasant (for some of them were +thrown a hundred yards), the three turned suddenly on their pursuers, +and galloping up to them, poured in a volley, the report of which +brought down their companions from the camp, when the skirmish became +general. The natives at first stood up courageously, but either by +accident or through fear, despair or stupidity, they got huddled in a +heap, in, and at the margin of the water, when ten carbines poured +volley after volley into them from all directions, killing and +wounding with every shot with very little return, nearly all of their +spears having been expended in the pursuit of the horsemen. About +thirty being killed, the Leader thought it prudent to hold his hand, +and let the rest escape. Many more must have been wounded and +probably drowned, for fifty nine rounds were counted as discharged. +On the return of the party to the cattle an incident occurred which +nearly cost one of them his life. One of the routed natives, +probably burning with revengeful and impotent hate, got into the +water under the river bank, and waited for the returning party, and +as they passed threw a spear at Scrutton, before any one was aware of +his proximity. The audacious savage had much better have left it +alone, for he paid for his temerity with his life. Although the +travellers came off providentially without hurt, there were many +narrow escapes, for which some of them might thank their good +fortune. At the commencement of the fight as Alexander Jardine was +levelling his carbine, a spear struck the ground between his feet, +causing him to drop his muzzle, and lodge the bullet in the ground a +few yards in front of him. His next shot told more successfully. +There were other equally close shaves, but providentially not a +scratch. This is one of the few instances in which the savages of +Queensland have been known to stand up in fight with white men, and +on this occasion they shewed no sign of surprise or fear at the +report and effect of fire-arms. But it is probable that they will +long remember the "Battle of the Mitchell." (Camp LXIV.) Course +N.N.W. Distance 7 miles. + +<p><i>December</i> 19. - The horses had to be watched last night, for the +grass was so dry and course that the stock would not look at it, but +kept rambling about. The river was followed down about 13 miles. +The whole country travelled to-day and yesterday shewed flood marks +from 5 to 15 feet high. The rushes, nardoo, thatch, and water-grass, +dried and parched by the hot winds, were matted together with mud and +rubbish. At the camp the stream was 150 yards wide, the running +water being 30 yards across. The banks were of clay and sandstone, +from 20 to 30 feet high, the water was discolored to a kind of +yellowish white. During the floods the stream must be eight or ten +miles wide, for, two miles back from it, a fish weir was seen in a +small gully. + +<p>Altogether it would have been a frightful place for the party to have +been detained at. (Camp XLV.) Latitude 15 degrees 26 minutes 5 +seconds. + +<p><i>December</i> 20. - The river was still followed down to-day, the party +keeping about four miles from it, to avoid its scrubs and +ana-branches. At between 7 or 8 miles, a stream about 100 yards +wide, coming from the eastward, caused them to halt until a road was +cut through the thick vine scrub that fringed its banks. Four miles +further on they camped at a small lagoon close to the bank of the +river, at which point it is about 100 yards wide, deep, and too salt +for drinking, being affected by the tide. The country travelled over +was box, and tea-tree, melon-hole flats, shewing very high flood +marks. The ground had become very boggy from a heavy rain that fell +during the day. The night was very stormy, rain and wind falling and +blowing pretty equally. Two more head of cattle were dropped. The +total distance was 11 miles. Course W.N.W. (Camp XLVI.) + +<p><i>December</i> 21. - The rain of last night continuing through the +morning, the party had to start in the down-pour. They crossed +another large shallow sandy creek at four miles, coming from the +eastward running south-east. The camp was formed on a lagoon about a +mile from the river bank. The country traversed was sandy, growing +only coarse wirey grasses and spinifex, sandstone rock cropping out +occasionally above the surface. The river was here a +quarter-of-a-mile wide, salt, and running strongly. Before the +pack-horses came up, a mob of blacks approached the camp, and getting +up in the trees, took a good survey of the white intruders, but on +one of the party going towards them they scampered off over the open +ground towards the river. The recollection of the affair at the +crossing place probably quickening their movements. Just at +sun-down, however, the sharp eyes of the black-boys detected some of +them actually trying to stalk the whites, using green boughs for +screens. So the Brothers taking with them Scrutton and the four +black-boys, started in chase. They were in camp costume, that is to +say, shirt and belt, and all in excellent condition and wind, and now +a hunt commenced, which perhaps stands alone in the annals of nature +warfare. On being detected the natives again decamped, but this time +closely pursued. The party could at any time overtake or outstep the +fugitives, but they contented themselves with pressing steadilly on +them, in open order, without firing a shot, occasionally making a +spurt, which had the effect of causing the blacks to drop nearly all +their spears. They fairly hunted them for two miles into the scrub, +when, as darkness was coming on, they left their dingy assailants to +recover their wind, and returned to camp laughing heartily at their +"blank run," and taking with them as many of the abondoned spears as +they could carry. (Camp XLVII.) Distance 9 1/2 miles. Course W.N.W. + +<p><i>December</i> 22. - The Mitchell was left finally to-day, Mr. Jardine +determining on beginning the "straight running" for Cape York. The +first 8 miles was to a broad rocky creek, over tea-tree and box +flats, and small plains, fairly grassed, the best coast country that +had been seen. The creek appeared to be permanent, although there +was no water where it was crossed. From thence to camp, 7 miles, was +over saline plains, intersected by belts of bloodwood, tea-tree, +mangrove, nuptle, grevillea, dogwood, applegum, silky oak, and +pandanus. A second creek was crossed at 11 miles, similar to the +first. The camp was pitched at a puddle, without a blade of grass, +although its appearance was beautifully green, caused by a small sort +of tea-tree growing in great abundance, about 10 inches high, with +seven or eight large leaves on it. A steer was killed in the +evening, giving the party a very acceptable meal of meat, the first +they had tasted for three days, the weather being too hot to kill, +and there being no game to shoot. Course N. by W. Distance 15 +miles. (Camp XLVIII.) Latitude 15 degrees 2 minutes 10 seconds. + +<p><i>December</i> 23. - All hands were up almost the whole of last night, +some engaged in watching the cattle and horses, and others in cutting +up and jerking the beast. The rain came down heavily, and a cold +bitter wind was blowing; all the tents, save the ration tent, being +like seives, the outside was rather preferable to their shelter; so +each passed the night as best they could. The cattle were started +away in the morning, leaving Scrutton and Binney to finish jerking +the meat, there being some sunshine, which was beginning to be a +rarity, for the wet season had now fairly set in. Twelve miles of +wretched country were traversed, white sandy undulating ground, +clothed with shrubs and underwood, in the place of grass, and the +camp pitched on a low stringy-bark ridge, without water, for in this +flat sandy country the ground absorbs the rain as soon as it falls. +The horses had to be watched again to-night, for there was not a +blade of grass to be got. A small quantity of water was found in a +creek about a mile-and-a-half ahead. Late in the evening the horses +and water-bags were taken to it, and sufficient water brought back +for the use of the camp. Two small unimportant creeks were crossed +to-day, sandy and dry, trending west. Distance 12 miles N.W. by N. +(Camp XLIX.) + +<p><i>December</i> 24. - The cattle were watched at a small lagoon beyond the +creek before mentioned, which was deep and rocky. The country +continued of the same miserable character as yesterday, till at 7 +miles, the party came to a belt of bloodwood and stringy-bark, where, +by good luck, there was a little coarse grass, but as the stock had +had none for two days, they were not particular. (Camp L.) Distance +7 miles. Course N.N.W. + +<p><i>December</i> 25. - The rain came down all last night, and continuing +throughout the day (for the first time continually), did not suggest +a merry Christmas. However the Leader wished his companions the +compliments of the season, and pushed on. The country decidedly +improved if the weather did not. The tail end of some scrubs were +passed in the first five miles, cheifly tea-tree and oak, and +half-a-mile further on, a fine creek of sandstone rock, permenantly +watered; at 7 miles another similar, but larger, was named Christmas +Creek. Here whilst Mr. Jardine was halting in wait for the cattle, +he marked a tree XMAS, 1864, in square. In it the swamp mahogany was +seen for the first time since leaving Bowen. Its native name is +Belourgah. The creek was therefore christened by that name. At 15 +miles the party reached and camped on a fine, well-watered, rocky +creek, where the blue grass was plentiful, the first that had been +seen for many weeks. The country travelled over was very soft, and +though driven loose, three of the horses could scarcely travel over +it. The packs also were getting into a very dirty state, consequent +on the amount of mud and water they had been dragged through. The +timber noticed to-day was very varied, comprising all the kinds that +have already been mentioned, with the addition of the banksia, which +was observed for the first time, and a kind of pomegranate, which was +quite new to the Brothers. The trees grow large with soft white +bark, and large round leaves. The fruit as large as an hen's egg, in +shape like the common pomegranate. Unripe it is of a transparent +white, but when mature, has a dark pink color and slightly acid +taste. It is probably the euginia mentioned by Leichhardt. They +were much annoyed by the green-tree ant, all the trees and shrubs +being covered with them, in riding along they got about their +persons, and down their backs, where they stuck like ticks. They are +of a transparent green, nearly half-an-inch long, soft, and sticky. +On coming to the green feed and good water at the camp, it was felt +that this Christmas Day, if not the most cheerful, might have been +much worse. (Camp LI.) Distance 13 miles N.N.W. + +<p><i>December</i> 26, -- The party travelled to-day on a course N.N.W. for +about 14 miles over very similar country to that of yesterday, save +that they crossed no creek, and saw no water during the whole of the +stage. Some of the ground was very scrubby and boggy, and better, +though not well grassed, too much spear grass occuring. The camp was +pitched on a splendid sheet of water, in a rocky creek, 80 yards +wide, and very long, in which some of the party caught some fine +fish. Waterfowl of all kinds were also numerous. It received the +name of Hearsey Creek, after a particular friend, Mr. W. Hearsey +Salmon. The blacks were hanging about, but did not make their +appearance. (Camp LII.) + +<p><i>December</i> 27. - The course to-day lay over similar country, a little +to the west of north, for 16 miles to a small creek, which contained +in a puddle, just sufficient water for the use of the party and the +horses. The cattle had to go without. (Camp LIII.) + +<p><i>December</i> 18. - At five miles from starting this morning, the +thirsty cattle were able to get abundance of water in a long sandy +creek, running in several channels, and having a rocky sandstone bed. +It was named Holroyd Creek. Two miles further on another stream was +crossed of similar size and character, which received the name of +Dunsmuir Creek. Here the country suddenly changed into lightly +timbered box flats, poorly grassed, and flooded. Four miles more +brought them to a salt-water creek, which had to be run up +a-mile-and-a-half before drinkable water was found. The camp was +pitched on a lotus lagoon, the water of which was slightly brackish. +It received the name of Thalia Creek. About two hours after camping, +whilst the party were engaged in digging trenches round them, and +otherwise preparing for an impending thunder-storm, the black-boy +that was tailing the cattle, came running into the camp in great +excitement, with the news that the natives that had been seen in the +morning, had hunted him and were now running the horses, so half the +party immediately turned out in pursuit. To protect the carbines +from the coming storm, Alexander Jardine and Scrutton arrayed +themselves the one in a black and the other a white mackintosh, which +reached to their heels, whilst the Leader having a short coat on, a +revolver in each pocket, jumped on to the bare-back of one of the +horses. This time it was not a "blank run." The horses were +scuttling about in all directions, and the natives waited for the +whites, close to a mangrove scrub, till they got within sixty yards +of them, when they began throwing spears. They were answered with +Terry's breech-loaders, but whether fascinated by the strange attire +of the three whites, or frightended by the report of the fire-arms, +or charge of the horse, they stood for some time unable to fight or +run. At last they slowly retired in the scrub, having paid for their +gratuitious attack by the loss of some of their companions. Some of +them were of very large stature. The storm broke with great violence +accompanied with thunder and lightning and scattered the cattle off +the camp in spite of the efforts of the party to keep them. The +thunder caused them to rush about, whilst darkness caused the +watchers to run against them, and add to their fright. So they were +let go. (Camp LIV.) Distance 11 or 12 miles north. + +<p><i>December</i> 29. - The cattle were all gathered this morning, save 10, +for which Frank Jardine left two of the black-boys to seek and then +follow the party. To his great annoyance they came on at night +without them. The course to-day was N.N.E. over boggy tea-tree +flats, and low stringy-bark ridges. At three miles a large running +creek, one hundred yards wide, was struck, and had to be followed up +for four miles before a crossing was found. Four miles further +brought them to a small creek, well supplied with water from the +recent rains, and what was even more acceptable, plenty of green +feed, of which the cattle and horses stood in great need. The Leader +determined to halt here one day, to try and recover the lost cattle, +but felt anything but easy in doing so, for the flood-marks were six +feet high on the camp, which was high ground compared to the level +waste around them, and the rains seemed fairly to have set in. +Another heavy storm poured down on them at night. (Camp LV.) + +<p><i>December</i> 30. - The cattle remained here to-day, whilst Scrutton and +Eulah were sent back for the lost cattle. The Brothers went forward +a day's stage to try and find some high ground. In this they did not +succeed. The country was all alike, and they were satisfied beyond +doubt that it must be one sea during the rains; not a very comforting +discovery. They found a creek four miles on, which received the name +of Macleod Creek. It was large and deep, with a strong current +running, and chose a place at which they would have to cross, between +two high banks of red sandstone. They then returned to camp, and +spent the rest of the day in "sugar bag" hunting, in which they were +very successful, bringing in as much as made a feed for the whole +camp, which was no small quantity. Scrutton and Eulah returned at +dark, without having seen any traces of the missing cattle, so it was +determined to go on without them, as it would have been madness to +have remained longer in such dangerous country. At night they +experienced a heavy storm, which is thus described in Frank Jardine's +journal: -- "We had one of most severe wind and thunder storms this +evening that I ever saw. The largest trees bent like whip-sticks, +and the din caused by the wind, rain, thunder, and trees falling, +beyond description. People looking at it from under a snug roof +would have called it <i>grand</i>, but we rhymed it with a very different +word." This may be called a "joke under difficulties." + +<p><i>December</i> 31. - Macleod Creek was reached by half-past eight o'clock +this morning, and cattle, horses, and packs were all safely crossed +by 9.15. The journey was then continued over, or rather, through +very boggy tea-tree flats, and undulating stringy-bark, nonda, and +bloodwood country, to a large flooded creek, coming from the +eastward, which received the name of "Kendall Creek," after a friend +of Mr. Richardson's. There was a little rising ground on its banks, +on which the party camped. Frank Jardine went up it for a few miles, +and found a spot at which to cross the next day, in the same manner +as at the last. At this camp some capital barramundi and perch were +caught, one of the former weighing no less than 14 pounds. They were +a great treat, as the party had been without meat for some days, the +heavy rains allowing them no chance of killing. The distance +travelled to-day was 12 miles, and course generally N.N.W., but the +track was winding in consequence of having to lead the horses, and +thread the way through the soundest looking places. (Camp LVI.) + +<h3>CHAPTER IV</h3> + +<blockquote>New Year's Day - Sinclair Creek - New Year's Creek - Kinloch Creek - +Micketeeboomulgeiai - The River Archer - The Coen - Slough of Despond +- River Batavia - Two Horses Drowned - Five Horses Poisoned - +Symptoms - Abandon Baggage - Cache - Party commence Walking - +Difficult Travelling - Two more Horses Die - Last Encounter with +Natives - Pandanus Thorns - Another Horse Sickens - Urgency of +Getting Forward - Dalhunty Creek - Another Horse Dies - "Creamy" and +"Rocket" Die - Skardon's Creek - Pitcher Plant - Two Saddles +Abandoned - Nell Gwynne's Foal Killed - Richardson's Range.</blockquote> + +<p><i>January</i> 1. - Kendall Creek was crossed early on the morning of +this, New Year's Day, and subsequently at distances of 10 and 14 +miles, two small creeks of running water, coming from the eastward, +named respectively Sinclair and New Year's Creeks, in which lilies +were abundant (<i>Blue Nympheas</i>), and on the last of which the party +camped. The progress was rendered very tedious and difficult, by the +large trunks and branches of trees, which had been blown down by the +storm of the 30th December, over and amongst which the weak horses +kept constantly falling. The country changed into red sandy ridges, +shewing an outcrop of sandstone, timbered with tall straight saplings +of stringy-bark and bloodwood, the larger timber having in all cases +been blown down. Some grass-tree country was also passed, covered +with quartz pebbles, white, or colored with oxide of iron. The +distance accomplished was 14 miles on a course of N.E. by N. (Camp +LVII. Nonda.) A heavy thunder-storm broke at night, followed by +steady rain. + +<p><i>January</i> 2. - The heavy rain, boggy soil, and recent long stages +made it necessary to turn out the cattle during the last night, as +the poor animals had so little chance of feeding during the day. +They were, however, gathered by the time the horses were ready in the +morning, having, probably, but little temptation to stray on the +boggy ground. The country traversed was similar to that of +yesterday, and very much encumbered with fallen timber. The grasses, +though thin, are of the best quality. Altogether the interval +between Kendall Creek and to-night's camp, a distance of 30 miles, +would make a fine cattle run, being watered at every six or seven +miles by running creeks, besides a large swamp. It was found to be +an extensive plateau, sloping away to the eastward, terminating +abruptly in a perpendicular wall, overlooking the valley, on the head +of which the party camped. The camp was one of the best of the whole +journey, being pitched on a grassy rise, sloping gently to the +eastward, and was a grateful relief after the barren and waterless +camps of the journey. The latitude was 13 degrees 47 seconds. +Distance 16 miles. (Camp LVIII.) + +<p><i>January</i> 3. - This morning the creek was followed down to near its +junction with a large sandy stream, coming from the north-east, which +was named Kinloch Creek, in honor of John Kinloch, Esq., Mathematical +Master of Sydney College. It was plentifully watered, and remarkable +for presenting the only iron-bark trees that were seen since leaving +the Einasleih. At 8 and 12 miles, two small very boggy creeks were +crossed, the first of which had to be bridged. Their banks were very +unsound and swampy, covered with tea-tree, pandanus, ferns, and all +kinds of valueless underwood. They were full of lilies, and appeared +to be constantly running, from which it was conjectured that they +must take their rise from springs. On passing the last, the party +emerged on to poorly grassed, desolate-looking sandstone ridges, +covered with grass-tree and zamia. A pine-tree ridge was then +passed, and a camp formed on a small water-course beyond, the total +distance being 16y miles on a bearing of N.N.E. 1/2 N. The latitude +was ascertained to be 13 degrees 35 minutes 54 seconds S. During the +day red kangaroos were seen, also the Torres Straits pigeon, and two +black cockatoos, with very large stiff crest, crimson cheeks, and +large black bill, the rest of the body black. This was the +(<i>Microglossus Aterrimus</i>), a species peculiar to Northern Australia. +It is nearly one-third larger in size than the common black cockatoo, +from which it is mainly distinguished by the color of the bill, which +is black. (Camp LIX. Bloodwood.) + +<p><i>January</i> 4. - A heavy storm of rain and thunder having been +experienced last night, the party made a short day's stage, and +camped early to enable them to dry their meat, saddlery, bags, etc., +which had been thoroughly soaked. The horses backs too, were getting +sore from the use of wet saddles, and themselves tired. The course +was north, over stringy-bark and bloodwood ridges for 5 miles, to a +large running creek named Micketeeboomulgeiai,* from the north-east, +on which a crossing had to be cut; a mile-and-a-half further on, an +ana-branch was crossed, and the party camped. (Camp LX. Bloodwood.) + +<blockquote>[footnote]*In the Wellington Dialect "place where the lightning struck."</blockquote> + +<p><i>January</i> 5. - Still raining and wet to-day. A table-land of open +sandy ridges was traversed to a high point, the edge of which was +reached in five miles on a course N. by E. On reaching this point a +range was seen in front, extending east and west about 10 miles off, +between which and the party, a fine valley extended, traversed by a +large sandy river, which was named the Archer, in honor of Messrs. +Archer, of Gracemere. The river Archer flows from the north-east, +through a valley of great richness and beauty, and considered by the +explorers to be the best country for cattle seen north of Broadsound. +The banks of the river are fringed by a thick belt of vine-scrub, +containing very many Leichhardt and other handsome trees and shrubs +of great luxuriance and growth. The valley is also described as +being the first locality where any varities of flowers were seen, +some were of great beauty, particularly a bulb which bears a large +flower, shaped like a larkspur, of every tinge of red, from a +delicate pink to a rich purple. After crossing the Archer two +ana-branches were passed, the route laying over loamy black and +chocolate flats, and fine long sloping ridges, very thickly grassed, +quite free from stones, well-watered, and despite the heavy rains +that had fallen, perfectly sound. The range seen from the table-land +was low, and of much the same description. Distance travelled 15 +miles N. by E. (Camp LXI. Applegum.) + +<p><i>January</i> 6. - The march to-day was very trying to the poor horses, +being chiefly over rotten melon-hole country, of a yellow clayey +soil, timbered with stunted bloodwood and pandanus, the rain pouring +down all day. At two miles from camp a large creek was crossed +containing a little rain water, and subsequently nine or ten small +deep waterless creeks, their beds too sandy to be retentive. On one +of these the wearied party camped at the end of 16 or 17 miles. A +range 8 or 9 miles to the East, was sighted during the day. +Notwithstanding the rain, barely sufficient water was found at the +camp. Distance 17 miles. Course North. (Camp LXII. Poplar gum.) + +<p><i>January</i> 7. - At rather more than a mile from camp, two branches of +a large deep creek, were crossed just above its junction. It runs +from W. by N., had a little water in it, and the usual fringe of dark +green vine scrub, interspersed with Leichhardt trees. A hill on the +north bank covered with large sandstone boulders, marks the +crossing-place of the party. Numerous small water-courses similar to +those of yesterday, were crossed to-day. The country slightly +improved but was of the same character, waterless but for the showers +of rain. I was strange to see the horses bogging leg deep during a +thunder-storm, and in five minutes after unable to get a drink of +water. Large red funnel-shaped ant-hills were seen, in some +instances as high as 18 to 20 feet. The timber in addition to the +usual varities comprised zamias, iron bark, acacia, pandanus, mimosa, +sterculia [(<i>Currijong</i>), grevillia, coral, (<i>Erythrina</i>), and Nonda +(<i>Walrothia</i>) trees. Scrub turkeys (<i>Talegalla Lathami</i>), wonga +wongas, and Torres Straits pigeon were seen. The party camped at the +end of 15 miles in a shallow tea-tree gulley, with a little water +from last night's rain in its sandy bed, supplying themselves with +drinking water from the rain, caught by the tents. Course North. +(Camp LXIII. Acacia.) + +<p><i>January</i> 8. -- The first 15 miles travelled over to-day were good +undulating forest country, timbered chiefly with box and applegum, +and a few iron-barks, and intersected with numerous canal-like +creeks, running north-west, but without water; the last three miles +was wretchedly bad, being similar to the tea-tree country of the +Staaten. The whole country between the Archer and Staaten is without +water, save immediately after rain, sufficiently heavy to set the +creeks running. The party camped on a small tea-tree "Gilgai," or +shallow water pan, and experienced another night of heavy rain with +high wind. Two more horses, Rasper and N'gress were found knocked +up. Distance 18 miles. Course N. The latitude of the camp was +ascertained to be 12 degrees 38 minutes 2 seconds. (Camp LXIV. +Bloodwood.) + +<p><i>January</i> 9. -- The fact of high land being observed to the west of +the course, and that the creeks all flowed eastward, induced the +party to think that they were near on the eastern slope of the +peninsula. This idea, however, was dispelled on their reaching at +the end of ten miles, a large river which was supposed to be the +Coen. It was running strongly W.N.W., and seemed distinctly to +divide the good and bad country, that on the south side being richly +grassed, open and lightly timbered, lucerne and other fine herbs +occurring frequently, whilst on the north side it relapsed into the +old barren tea-tree country of which so much had been traversed. +Considerable time was lost by the party in cutting a road for the +cattle through the thick scrub that fringes its banks, a kind of work +which was now becoming familiar. The Coen is about sixty yards wide, +sandy, and contains crocodiles. The country on it is described as +being of excellent quality for a cattle run. The party camped on a +tea-tree swamp with a few inches of water in it, 6 miles beyond the +crossing place. During the day wongas and Torres Strait pigeons were +observed, and scrub turkeys frequented the river scrubs. Distance 16 +miles. Course North. (Camp LXV. Bloodwood.) + +<p><i>January</i> 10. -- The journey to-day was one of unusual fatigue and +hardship. The country for the first two miles was comparatively +sound, but at this point the course was intercepted by a narrow boggy +creek, running strongly through a tea-tree flat. Although care and +time were taken in the selection of a proper spot, when the herd +began to cross, the leading cattle, breaking through the crust, sank +to their hips in the boggy spew below, and in a short time between 30 +and 40 were stuck fast, the remainder ploughing through with great +difficulty. Four beasts refused to face it altogether, and it was +found necessary, after wasting considerable time and a deal of +horse-flesh, to let them go. The greater part of the day was +consumed in dragging out the bogged cattle with ropes. Even with +this method and with all the exertions that could be used by the +party, five had to be abandoned, nothing appearing above the ground +but their backs and heads. The horses were more easily crossed, but +their saddles, packs, and loads had to be carried over by the party. +They then camped on the creek, and spent the remainder of the day in +drying their arms, saddles, etc., and in jerking the beef of one of +the beasts which they had been unable to pull out of the slough. +Heavy rain again fell at night, which caused an apprehension that +their progress would be altogether stopped if it continued. Distance +2 1/2 miles. Course North. (Camp LXVI. Pomegranite.) + +<p><i>January</i> 11. -- It is at this point that the heaviest troubles and +hardships of the party appear to have commenced, ,troubles that might +well appal hearts less stout than those of the Leader and his +brother, and hardships bearing heavily on each member of the party, +but doubly so on them who had to explore, mark, and clear the way for +the cattle, in addition to the ordinary labor of the journey. After +having travelled with the greatest difficulty for two miles over +execrable country, so boggy as to be barely possible to traverse, +their progress was stopped by a creek 25 yards wide, flooded "bank +and bank," and running like a mill sluice. This was the river +Batavia. The usual formidable fringe of vine scrub covered the +margin and approaches and had to be cut through before the cattle +could cross. This was done by the Brothers by the time they came up, +and in addition a large melaleuca which leant over the stream, was +felled across it, by means of which (by tying a rope above it, as a +leading line), they were enabled to carry over the packs, saddles, +stores, etc., on their heads. The cattle accustomed to swimming, +took the water in splendid style, one however getting entangled and +drowned. With the horses they were not so fortunate, for though a +head stall was put on each with a rope attached to the bit, to haul +them across, the rapidity of the current swept away two of them into +a tangle of vines in the middle of the stream, under which they were +carried and drowned, despite the exertions of four or five of the +party to pull them across by the rope. Their efforts to save them +nearly cost their own lives, and A. Jardine chronicles receiving a +"nasty crack" in the head from a log in attempting to disentangle his +own horse "Jack" from the vines, one which might have closed his +career, had it been a degree harder, the other, "Blokus," was a +Government horse, belonging to Mr Richardson; both were useful +horses, and a great loss to the party, but only the forerunner of +much greater ones. The creek at last crossed, the party attempted to +push forward on the other side, but after travelling a mile leading +the horses, slushing through bog and swamp under a heavy rain, they +were obliged to turn back and encamp on some high ground on the banks +of the creek, about half-a-mile above the crossing, where there was a +little good grass. Several of their horses were left behind bogged, +one mare in particular, "Nell Gwynne," being too weak to travel. +Distance 3 miles. Course N. (Camp LXVII.) + +<p><i>January</i> 12. -- It was determined to camp here to-day, both to spell +the weak horses and dry many things that had got wet. The horses +left bogged the previous night were got out, when on returning to the +camp, it was found that a number of the others were poisoned, and one +missing. The black-boys were immediately sent out in search of him, +but were unsuccessful. Meanwhile the party being unable to shift +camp that day, a yard was immediately formed, all herbs carefully +pulled up in and about it, and the horses penned there. The +precaution came too late, for before evening five of them besides the +missing one ("Rasper") were dead. It was supposed that "Rasper" must +have got into the river and been drowned, as one of the effects of +the poison is complete blindness. The symptoms are thus described. +Profuse sweating, with a heaving of the flanks, the ears droop, the +eyes glaze, set, and the animal finally turns stone blind. He then +lies down, struggles fitfully for several hours, and never rises +again. This was a heavy blow. Ten of their horses were now gone, +eight of which were picked, and the best of the whole number, besides +being the best conditioned, one peculiarity of the poison being that +it appears to attack the fattest animals. A careful search was made +to detect the plant that caused this fearful loss, but +unsuccessfully. The number of horses being now reduced to +twenty-one, and those the poorest and worst, it became necessary to +take only what was actually wanted of their baggage, and to abandon +the remainder. A cache was accordingly dug, and 25 sets of +horse-shoes, a lot of nails and other miscellaneous articles were +buried at the foot of an iron acacia on the top of the ridge and +facing the creek, on which was marked in a sheild F J over LXVII. +over DIG in heart. The horses were kept in the yard all night, and +the rest of the day and evening spent in disposing of the reduced +loading, and making preparations for leaving this fatal camp. The +rain continued to fall heavily throughout the day, which could not +under the circumstances, have increased the cheerfulness of the +party. The Leader, however, closes the entry in his Diary with "Nil +Desperandum" merely marking the day of the week in parenthesis as +("Black Thursday.") + +<p><i>January</i> 13. -- The poor condition of the horses, and the wretchedly +soft nature of the ground, making it impossible for them to be +ridden, or do more than carry the diminished loads of baggage and +stores, the party had no choice but to walk and in some cases even to +carry the packs of the horses. Mr. A. Jardine describes their +appearance this morning as "rather neat" at the starting from the +camp, the two Brothers, Mr. Binney, Scrutton, and the four black-boys +having doffed everything but their shirts and belts. It was well for +the whites that their previous habits on the journey had hardened +their feet and enabled them to travel without shoes, with but little +less hardship than their black companions. This they had acquired by +the custom on coming into camp, of going out with the boys opossum +and "sugar bag" hunting. With stout hearts and naked legs, therefore +they faced forward driving the horses and cattle before them, and by +the end of the day placed ten miles between them and "Poison Creek," +as it was then named. This however was not accomplished without +great toil, the country traversed being red soil ridges, with black +soil tea-tree flats between them, which were so many bogs. In these +the cattle floundered and bogged at every hundred yards, and even the +spare unladen horses had to be pulled out. The latter were at length +so completely knocked up that it was necessary to leave some of them +at one side of a swamp, the party carrying their packs and loads +about a quarter-of-a-mile on to a dry ridge on the other. Here they +camped and tired as they were, were obliged to keep a vigilant watch, +as, to add to their many annoyances the natives had been following +them all day. Distance 10 miles N.E. by N. Box marked F.J. 68 cross. + +<p><i>January</i> 14. -- At daylight this morning the horses were got over +the swamp, with less difficulty than was expected, being recruited by +their night's rest. The journey was resumed at 6.30. There had been +no rain on the previous day and night, and the ground with only this +twenty-four hours of dry weather had hardened sufficiently on the +crust to allow the horses to walk without bogging. This crust, +however, once broken through, they bogged hopelessly, until dragged +out with ropes. In this the water and sludge oozing out from the +tracks were great auxiliaries, as they formed a kind of batter, in +which, by pulling the horses on their sides, they slid along like +sledges. This process had continually to be repeated throughout the +day, causing so much delay, that seven or eight miles were with +difficulty accomplished. At each running stream the packs had to be +taken off and carried over. The country traversed was similar to +that of yesterday, undulating blood-wood red soil ridges, +sufficiently well-grassed, with the everlasting black soil, tea-tree +flats, and gullies running between them, some being very wide. Two +more horses died during the day from the effects of the poison, and +the Leader owns that he was beginning to be at his wits end as to how +they were to get along. Every superfluity and been abandoned, and, +with the exception of a few light things, such as clothes and +blankets, of too trifling weight to make it worth while to leave, and +only what was absolutely necessary, retained; yet there were barely +sufficient horses left to carry that. He had therefore good cause +for anxiety. The day kept tolerably fair until the party came into +camp, when the rain came down in torrents. Whilst in the hurry and +confusion of putting up the tents to protect the stores from the +deluge that was pouring, the alarm of "blacks" was again given. They +were fortunately unarmed, and the party easily chased them away. +This was fortunate, and was caused by the native custom of making the +gins carry their spears and shields on the march, themselves only +carrying a nulla or two. They were soon back again however, with +large bundles of spears, but not before the party had had time to +prepare for them. The rifles were dry and loaded. Frank Jardine +here owns to a feeling of savage delight at the prospect of having a +"shine" with these wretched savages, who, without provocation, hung +on their footsteps dogging them like hawks all through the thickest +of their troubles, watching with cowardly patience, for a favourable +moment to attack them at a disadvantage. Even then, however, he +would not be the agressor, but allowed them to come within sixty +yards, and ship their spears in the woomerahs, before they were fired +upon. The two foremost men fell to the only two shots that were +discharged, and their companions at once broke and fled; nor was the +advantage followed up, as the travellers were careful to husband +their ammunition, and their caps were running short. This, however, +was the last occasion on which the party was molested, their sable +adversaries having, probably, at length learned that "they were worth +letting alone," and never again shewing themselves. The distance +travelled was 8 miles. N.E. by N. + +<p><i>January</i> 15. -- This being Sunday and horses, cattle, and men, being +in want of rest after the work of the last two days, it was +determined to make a rest day. The party employed part of the time +in spreading out the contents of the pack bags to dry, everything +having become mouldy with the constant wetting. The day was marked +too, by a grant feast of "stodge," doughboys, and jam, stodge being a +delicacy extemporised for the occasion, consisting of "flour boiled +with water to the consistency of paste, with some small pieces of raw +meat thrown into it"!! The Brothers spent part of the afternoon in +the mutual good offices of picking the pandanus thorns out of each +others feet and legs, the blackboys following their example. These +thorns were a constant source of small torture to the party. The +necessity of trying the ground in advance of the cattle prevented +them wearing boots, and thus feet and legs were left without any +protection, and exposed them day after day to the same annoyance. +Another horse, "Creamy," sickened from the effects of the poison. It +was thought that he had not taken enough to kill him, and that the +day's rest would set him to rights. A cow was also left bogged in +the swamp. The ground on which the party encamped was supposed at +first to be dry, being on a bloodwood ridge, with six or eight inches +of gravel on the surface, but the heavy rain of the previous night +caused the water to run through the tents to a depth of three inches. +It was only necessary to scratch a handful of gravel off the crust to +get clear running water for drinking. A heavy rain again fell during +the night, dispelling all hopes of sound travelling for the morrow. +(Camp LXIX. Bloodwood.) + +<p><i>January</i> 16. -- The absolute necessity of getting at or near their +destination before the setting in of the periodical rains, stimulated +the Leader to urge the party to long stages, which was not at all +relished by some of the number, two of whom at starting made repeated +requests to camp for another day, alleging that they could not walk +any further. To this Mr. Jardine could not listen, and being further +importuned, disposed of the request summarily by packing their rifles +on the horses, and telling them that they might remain or come on as +they might elect. He heard no more grumbling, and a good stage was +accomplished. The country for the first two miles was similar to +that of the last two stages. It then suddenly changed into red sandy +stringy-bark ridges, with a dense under-growth of vines, zamias, and +pandanus, which made the walking difficult and painful. Several +creeks were crossed, the largest of which was at ten miles from the +camp, and running W. by N., and the party halted at another six miles +further on, which received the name of Dalhunty Creek. Its course +was west, and it was remarkable for the palms (<i>Seaforthia Elegans</i>) +growing in its bed. All these creeks were supposed to be tributaries +of the Batavia River. The party had only to unpack the horses twice +during the day, and made a capital stage, but not without paying for +it, for even the Black-boys shewed signs of fatigue. Their legs and +feet, as well as those of most of the party were in a frightful +state, cut in peices by the thorny vines which covered the line of +march. They were now completely out of meat, but it would have been +unwise to halt to kill a beast for three reasons: first, the +weather; next, the fact that they could not pack the meat without +leaving behind something to make place for it, another of their +horses, Combo, having died to-day from the effects of the poison; and +lastly, the urgency of getting forward whilst the weather would admit +of it. The morning had been rainy, but in the afternoon it cleared +up and gave promised of a few fair days, of which it was expedient to +take advantage. In addition to the horse that died (Combo), two more +of their best horses (Rocket and Creamy) were fast sinking. It was a +fearful thing to see them dwindling away day by day, without power to +help or time to halt for them; but to press forward was a paramount +necessity. Distance 16 miles North. (Camp LXX. Applegum.) + +<p><i>January</i> 17. -- The country traversed to-day was similar to that of +yesterday, save that the ridges were higher and more stony. Creeks +were crossed at two and ten miles, running strongly westward, which +appeared to be permanent. Five miles further on, the party camped on +a smaller one of the same character, having vine scrub and seaforthia +palms on its banks, which was named Skardon's Creek. The horse +Creamy died during the day, and Rocket through the night. These +losses reduced their horses from forty-two, with which they started, +to fifteen of the culls. They were in latitude 11 degrees 51 minutes +50 seconds, and by their dead reckoning, just about the track of +Kennedy, supposing it to have been correctly charted, and therefore +on the western slope of the dividing range. The Torres Strait pigeon +(<i>Carpophaga Luctuosa</i>) was again seen, and the bitcher +plant(<i>Nepenthes Kennedya</i>) first noticed. Two of the police saddles +had to be left at this camp in consequence of the loss of the horses. +Distance 15 1/2 miles. North. (Camp LXXI.) + +<p><i>January</i> 18. -- The march to-day is described as being through the +most abominable country that can well be imagined, being a +continuation of loose white sandy ranges, thickly covered with low +bush from three to eight feet in height, broom, fern, grass-tree +(<i>Xanthoraea</i>), pandanus, and "five-corner" bushes, being thickly +matted together with prickly vine. Not a tree relieved the monotony +of this waste, and what was worse, not a blade of grass was seen for +miles. Several deep creeks were crossed, all running strongly with +clear pelluced water to W. and N.W. The timber when it occured was +bloodwood, stringy and iron-bark on the ridges, banksia, grevillia, +and several kinds of tea-trees in the gullies, which were +honey-combed and boggy. Two new kinds of palm were seen. The bush +which seems to be what Kennedy alluded to as "heath," could only be +got through by leading a horse ahead, the others following slowly +behind him, the cattle then following in their track. A straight +course was impossible, as all the boggy creeks and gullies had to be +run up to their heads before they could be crossed. A general +course, however, was kept of N. by E. The packs were continually +being knocked off the horses, occasioning great delay, so that only +12 miles were accomplished. Some black perch were caught in one of +the creeks, and scrub turkeys were seen. Poor "Nell Gwynne's" foal +knocked up to-day, after having kept up bravely since the mare's +death. Nothing remained therefore but to kill him. The party being +without meat, and it being impossible to stop in such a country to +kill a beast, part of his flesh was dressed and carried on, which was +a grateful addition to the food, and although two or three at first +refused to eat of it, the craving of hunger soon made them forget +their repugnance to horse-flesh. At night the horses had to be short +hobbled and a watch kept over them. The weather kept fine, raising +the hopes of the Leader of getting in before the rains. + +<p><i>January</i> 19. -- Despite the watch kept over the horses, they got +away during the night, and a late start was the consequence. Several +hours were also lost at the first mile on the journey, in consequence +of some of the horses getting "upside down" in one of the deep narrow +creeks, which were constantly recurring, and having to be extricated. +These creeks run N.W., and take their rise from springs. They are so +boggy that in some cases, though perhaps only eighteen inches wide, +they had to be headed before the cattle could pass. The summit of +the range was reached in seven miles of similar country to that of +yesterday, resembling (identical in fact) in appearance and botanical +character, to the worst country of Botany Bay, the Surry Hills, and +coast about Sydney. A thick vine scrub was then passed, when the +party emerged on to some open ridges of red sandy soil, timbered with +bloodwood, stringy-bark, and nonda. They were now satisfied that +they were on eastern waters, as, whilst out sugar-bag hunting in the +evening, the Brothers saw the blue waters of the ocean about twelve +or fifteen miles to the eastward, a small arm of which was supposed +to be a bay to the northward of Cape Grenville. Their latitude was +11 degrees 46 minutes 36 seconds. The camp was pitched at the head +of a small creek running eastward. + +<p><i>January</i> 20. -- After 4 miles of brushwood and scrubby range had +been accomplished this morning, further progress was stopped by a +dense pine and vine scrub stretching across the course. The cattle +were halted outside, whilst the Brothers made search for an opening +for them to get through, in doing which they came on to a narrow +track cut by the blacks. This they followed for more than two miles, +but were obliged to return at last, the vine ropes, tangle, and dense +scrub, making it hopeless to attempt taking the cattle along it. A +further search proved equally unsuccessful. The whole party had +therefore to turn back along their tracks for a couple of miles, then +turning east they travelled on that bearing. At about half-a-mile +they reached the eastern slope, from which the sea was distinctly +visible. A spur of the range was followed for about four miles into +rather better country, where the party camped, being well-grassed and +slightly timbered, though stoney. Although about 9 miles were +travelled over, the distance in latitude from the last camp could not +have been more than one-and-a-half miles. From a bluff on the range +a fine view of the low country and sea was obtained, and a bearing +taken to Cape Grenville of 117 deg. Blacks' tracks were very +numerous to-day, and it was evident by the neat cutting of the marks +on the trees that they were provided with good iron tomahawks. Many +turkeys' nests were found, but the eggs only benefitted the stronger +stomachs of the party, having young ones in them in most cases. In +crossing one of the boggy creeks, one of the horses jumped on to a +pack-saddle, and a hook entering his skin lacerated it dreadfully. + +<p><i>January</i> 21. -- The course to-day was N.E. by N., along the eastern +slope of the Richardson Range, through a fearfully difficult country. +Seven deep scrubby creeks had to be crossed running strongly to the +westward, whose banks were invariably fringed with a thick scrub, +which had in each case to be cut through before the cattle could +pass: one in particular was so dense that it alone occupied three +hours in cutting. The cattle occasionally got their horns entangled +in the vines, and had to be cut loose. One cow got fearfully furious +at being thus arrested, and when extricated, galloped straight away, +and was no more seen. Over seven hours were occupied in making a +distance of about 8 miles, only 3 of which were spent in actual +travelling. A great variety of palms were seen in the scrubs, which +were covered with fruit and berries, but only the "Seaforthia," the +most graceful of the family, the 'Caryota Urens', remarkable for its +star-shaped fronds and the more common 'Corypha', of which the +colonial straw-hats are made, were known to the travellers. Latitude +11 degrees 37 minutes 46 seconds. + +<p><i>January</i> 22. -- The country traversed to-day was of the same +description as that of yesterday, utterly without grass, and the same +tedium and toil were experienced in cutting through the vine scrubs +which bordered the running creeks. These were very numerous, and +quite uniform in their difficulty, a lane for the cattle having to be +cut through each. Some very large pines were noticed to-day (most +probably 'Araucaria Cunninghamii'), which, forming large and dense +scrubs, twice forced the party out of their course. The camp +to-night was a very miserable one, surrounded by scrub and brushwood, +without a blade of grass for the stock, or even a tree that could be +marked, and to add to their wretchedness, a heavy rain came down +which lasted till near midnight. Course N.W., 10 miles. (Camp +LXXVI.) + +<p><i>January</i> 23. -- A steady rain poured down all to-day, and as +yesterday, the route alternated over and through desert wastes of +brush and tangled scrubs, the former telling with great severity on +the lacerated feet of the travellers. Their legs had the appearance +of having been curried by a machine. At the end of 9 miles they +luckily came on to a creek comparatively well-grassed on the banks. +This being the first that had been seen for three days, they joyfully +encamped on an open ridge. The timber comprised nonda, grevillea, +banksia, tea-tree, mahogany, and many other tropical trees not known. +The total distance travelled was 10 miles. N. by W. (Camp LXXVII.) + +<p><i>January</i> 24. -- For the first three miles to-day, the country +remained similar to the generality, that is, scrub and heath, after +this it slightly improved, opening into coarse sandstone ridges, in +some parts strewed with quartz pebbles, either white or tinted with +oxide of iron. At two miles from the start a stream was struck, +running north, having a clear sandy bed thirty yards wide, which was +immediately concluded to be a head of the Escape River, and a +continuation of that crossed on the 22nd. Into this, numerous short +steep scrubby creeks discharge themselves from the range or ridge to +the eastward. These had, as usual, all to have passages cut through +them for the stock. At the end of about six miles, a heavy +thunder-storm coming on whilst the party were engaged in clearing, +the creek they were upon was sent up bank and bank by the storm +water, and barred their further progress. They were therefore +compelled to camp. At sundown it was again nearly dry, but the rain +continued at intervals till midnight. During the day a large low +table-topped mountain was passed about 4 miles to the eastward. It +was either bare of timber or heath clad, and received the name of +Mount Bourcicault. (LXXVIII.) Distance 6 miles. N. by W. + +<p><i>January</i> 25. -- A ten-mile journey was accomplished to-day, the +country for the first seven having slightly improved into red soil +ridges coarsely grassed, having patches of scrub along their summits. +The remaining three were of the usual character, heath and brushwood, +in the midst of which, in a miserable hole as it is described, they +were obliged to camp. A delay of a couple of hours occured in +consequence of a thunder-storm flooding a narrow gutter that might be +hopped over. It was not until this subsided that the horses and +cattle could be made to face it, the poor brutes having been so +frightened with bogs and water, that the horses had to be led over +the smallest of them. The rain still continued to pour heavily at +intervals during the day. (Camp LXXIX.) No trees to mark. The +course was N. by W. + +<p><i>January</i> 26. -- After two miles of travelling, the party again +struck the supposed Escape River. The stream was flooded, and at +this point fifty yards wide, and the bed clear of fallen timber. A +bloodwood tree was marked on both sides, on the S. bank. The country +on either side is of a red and white sandy soil, timbered with +bloodwood, mahogany, melaleuca and black and white tea-tree, coarsely +grassed, with heath and scrub running down to the banks in many +places. The river was followed down for 7 or 8 miles, its general +course being N.W., the party having to cut roads for the cattle +through the thick scrubs which lined the tributary creeks and +gullies, in four instances. At this distance a large branch nearly +equal in size, joins it from the south-east, to which the name of the +"McHenry"* was given. It being flooded and deep, the party traced it +upwards for about a mile from its junction and encamped. The tents +being pitched and everything made secure for the night, the Brothers +explored up the stream in search of a good crossing place for the +morrow. After several trials were made, a spot was finally decided +upon, about three-quarters-of-a-mile from the camp, and they returned +with the pleasing prospect of having to swim the cattle and horses +over next day, and carry the packs on their heads. Black and white +cockatoos, some parrots, scrub turkeys (<i>Talegalla Lathami</i>), and +white pigeons (Torres Straits), were seen on the march, throughout +which the rain still continued to fall, as it did also during the +night. At this camp (80) the last of the sugar was finished, but +this was not thought much of, as from the latitude being ascertained +to be 11 degrees 10 minutes, it was supposed that Somerset could not +be more than 20 or 30 miles distant. How they were undeceived in +their conjecture, and had their hopes disappointed, will be seen. + +<blockquote>[footnote] *After Captain J. McHenry, of Arthur Downs, Isaac River.</blockquote> + +<p><i>January</i> 27. -- Early this morning the party addressed themselves to +the task of crossing the McHenry. This was accomplished in safety, +cattle and horses taking the water like dogs, the greater difficulty +being in getting over the packs, saddles, and stores, which had to be +carried on the heads of the swimmers of the party, and this necessary +part of a bushman's education was not common to all, or at least +sufficiently to be of use. The course was then continued on the +other side to the junction of the two streams. The rain continued to +fall steadily during most of the day, filling up every little creek +and gutter. Some of the former had to be swum over, whilst the +latter occured at every mile. Just below the junction there is a +large dense vine-scrub, which had to be skirted, after which, the +party continued their course down the supposed Escape, which had now +increased its width to a hundred yards. Its width when first struck, +was only twenty, increasing to forty or fifty at its junction with +the McHenry, when the united streams form an imposing river. Its +course is extremely winding, whilst the numberless creeks and gulleys +which join it, all with scrubby banks, make travelling along its +banks, a work of great labor and difficulty. The country on this +day's march slightly improved, being more open and better grassed, +the best being on the river banks, but coarse and sparse at best. +The timber chiefly bloodwood and black tea-tree. Several trees were +marked with a cross at the crossing place of the McHenry, and one +similarly at the point of the scrub below the junction. In +consequence of the many delays to-day the total distance travelled +was only 5 miles. Course N. by W. (Camp LXXXI.) + +<p><i>January</i> 28. -- The course of the river was followed down to-day for +about two-and-a-half miles, but the endlessly recurring water +courses, each with its eternal fringe of thick vine scrub, at last +compelled the party to turn to the west in order to avoid them, there +being no time to cut roads for the cattle. They were constantly +getting entangled by the horns in the hanging vines of the <i>Calamus +Australis</i> and <i>Flagetlaria</i>, so often referred to. The effect of +this on some was to work them into such a perfect fury, that when +released by the party cutting them clear, they would in some +instances rush blindly away from the herd and be lost, as described +before. The intention on starting was to run the river down to the +head of the tide, and then establish a camp, where the cattle could +stay, whilst the Brothers went on to find Somerset, now supposed to +be not far distant. On leaving the river the course was shaped west, +to head the scrubs on the tributaries, but this, far from improving +the travelling, made it worse as they got into a maze of scrub, +heath, and swamps, through which they had to thread their course. +They, had therefore, to make their way back to the river, which was +again struck in about 7 miles. It was here running north, the bed +free from fallen timber, and about 150 yards wide, and so full and +flooded as to make it impossible to discover whether it was within +the tidal influence or not. Following the river for 4 miles, making +a total journey of 12, the rain pouring the whole day, the party +camped on the bank, where alone grass was to be found, and that even +very poor and thin. Two of the horses "Tabinga," and "Pussey," had +to be left about three miles back from the camp with their saddles, +utterly knocked up. A lame heifer was killed and cut up for jerking, +on the morrow. Course N.W. by N. Distance 12 miles. (Camp LXXXII.) + +<p><i>January</i> 29. -- This day was devoted to rest, with the exception of +the necessary duties of jerking the beef of the heifer, and preparing +for the start of the Brothers to find Somerset. The horses left +behind were sent for and brought into camp, and dispositions made for +a halt, until the return of the Leader. The packs, saddles, and +stores were "overhauled," and found for the most part to be +completely rotted, from the constant rain and severe duckings they +had undergone, making the party congratulate themselves that they +were near their destination. At the request of Frank Jardine, Mr. +Richardson plotted up the route, as far as this camp, and gave him +his position on the chart, with a note "that camp 82 was on the +Escape River, eight miles in a direct line from where it joins the +sea, and sixteen miles from Somerset." In this, as in the case of +the position of the Lynd, he was mistaken, the reason for which, he +states to be that his sextant was out of order. This was much to be +regretted, as failing the correctness of the surveyor's observations, +Mr. Jardine might just as well trust to his own dead reckoning. It +might be supposed that Mr. Richardson having had an opportunity of +checking his position by the bearing to Cape Grenville, when he +sighted the sea on the 20th inst, at camp 74, should have been able +more accurately to have determined his present position, but he +excuses himself on the score of the difficulty of estimating the +daily distance whilst walking.* This is a very admissable +explanation, considering the tedium and slowness of their progress in +winding through scrubs, and being delayed by crossings, the +tortuousness of their route making it difficult to keep the course. +It was the more unfortunate, therefore, that the sextant, which was +naturally depended upon for keeping them informed of their progress, +should have been allowed to become so deranged, as to be less +reliable than the result of mere dead reckoning. + +<blockquote>[footnote] *See his Journal.</blockquote> + +<h3>CHAPTER V.</h3> + +<blockquote>First Start in Search of Settlement -- Character of the Jardine -- +The Eliot -- Return to Main Camp -- Flooded State of River -- +Impromptu Raft -- Crossing Horses -- Uncertainty -- Second Start in +Search of Settlement -- View of the Ocean -- Reach South Shore of +Newcastle Bay -- Reach Mouth of True Escape -- Unable to Cross -- A +Dainty Meal -- Character of the Escape -- Return to Main Camp -- +Horses Knocked-up -- Another Horse Dead -- Flour Exhausted -- +Wretched Condition of Horses -- More Baggage Abandoned -- Prospects +-- The Whole Party Again Move Forward -- Another Horse Abandoned -- +Reach Head of Tide View of the Gulf -- Barne Island -- Return up the +Jardine -- Third Start in Search of Settlement -- Wild Grape -- +Crossing Saddles -- a Disappointment -- Head the Escape River -- Meet +Friendly Natives -- Natives Act as Pilots -- Native Bread -- Canoes +-- Corroboree -- Native Drums -- Arrival at Somerset -- Mr. Jardine's +Marked-tree Line -- Meeting with their Father -- A Heroine.</blockquote> + +<p><i>January</i> 30. -- This morning, Mr. F. Jardine with his Brother and +the Blackboy, Eulah, started to find the Settlement, leaving the rest +of the party encamped with the cattle, in charge of Mr. Scrutton. +They took with them a week's ration of 25 lbs. of flour, and 12 lbs. +meat (tea and sugar had long been things of the past), intending to +follow the supposed river down to the head of the tide. It was +accordingly followed for about 21 miles, but to their astonishment, +instead of trending N.N.E., its general course was found to be +North-west 1/2 West. This led them to the conclusion that it was a +western water, and not as they had hitherto supposed, the Escape +River. Of this they were now convinced, but to make certain, agreed +to continue travelling down it for two days more, and with this +intent camped on a creek coming in from the southward. The margin of +the river is generally open and coarsely grassed, timbered with +mahogany, bloodwood, and melaleuca, the points of scrubs and +brushwood occasionally closing down to the stream. Its width varies +from one to two-hundred yards, with a sandy bed, entirely free from +fallen timber. Its banks are steep in many places, of white clay and +coarse sandstone, and fringed with tall melaleuca, whose long +drooping branches and leaves swept the rapid and deep stream. A +straight course was impracticable, for as soon as attempted, and the +river was out of sight, the party got entangled in thick brushes and +tea-tree swamps, without a blade of grass. They were obliged, +therefore, to follow the course of the river in all its windings. +The only birds seen were scrub turkeys, and Torres Strait pigeons. +The weather at starting was fine, but about 11 o'clock the rain +commenced, and continued steadily the whole of the day. At night, on +camping, a "bandicoot gunyah" was erected, and covered with the broad +pliable paper bark of the melaleuca, which made a snug shelter for +the night from the still pouring rain. Course generally N.W by W. +Distance following the river, 21 miles. + +<p><i>January</i> 31. -- Crossing the creek immediately after leaving the +camp, the party still continued to follow the windings of the river +through similar country to that of yesterday, save that the ground +was more boggy, the swamps, ana-branches, and small lagoons more +numerous. On the latter some Coromandel geese were seen, of a +species different from those found near Rockhampton. The heavy rain +which had continued all last night had caused the river to rise +several inches. At about ten miles the progress of the party was +stopped by a large stream coming in from the South-east, about the +same size as the McHenry. A tree was marked AJ at the junction which +was very scrubby, and the new stream received the name of the Eliot. +It was running strongly, and had to be traced up for two miles, +before the party could cross in safety. This they fortunately +accomplished without accident, although the water was up to their +necks, as they waded across with their saddles and packs on their +heads, giving them all they could do to stem the rapid current. They +then proceeded on their way for 7 miles further, the last two of +which were through thick brush, and camped on the bank of the main +stream, now much augmented in size after receiving the waters of the +Eliot. There was but little grass for the poor horses, but no +choice, the country back from the river being all scrubs and swamps, +covered with tea-tree, but barren of grass. The total distance +travelled was 17 miles. The course generally West by South, clearly +proving that they could not be on the Escape. + +<p><i>February</i> 1. -- The river was again followed for about seven miles +further, but as the course still continued to trend West, and even +south of West, the Brothers in disgust determined on re-tracing their +steps, satisfied, if satisfaction can be predicated of such a +disappointment, that they were on western waters, and that they had +not yet reached the looked-for Escape River. At this point, +therefore, they turned, intending to swim the river at the main camp, +and make another exploration to find the Settlement from the North +side, or right bank. By night-fall they reached their first night's +camp, where they found the "gunyah" very acceptable. They had now +followed the supposed Escape 45 miles; deducting a third for its +sinuosities, a distance of at least 30 miles in a straight line +Westward had been travelled, and they were filled with surprise that +so large and important a stream should have remained undiscovered. +Its width at their turning-point was over two-hundred yards, the +banks commencing to be very swampy, and it is described by Mr. A. +Jardine, as the most compact river, with the exception of the +Fitzroy, he had seen in the North. The rain continued as yesterday +during the whole of the day, accompanied with cold winds. This, +together with their disappointment, was sufficient to depress the +spirits of most men. There is not, however, in the journals of +either of the Brothers the slightest indication of despondency or +complaint. + +<p><i>February</i> 2. -- The main camp was reached this morning early, and +everything found safe and right, save in one particular, that +deserves recording. In looking over the ration account, Mr. Jardine +found a deficiency of 30 lbs. of flour, accruing in the interval of +the four days of his absence. All denied any knowledge of it, and +all were equally certain that the allowance had not been exceeded; +"so" writes Frank Jardine, "where it is gone to, I am never likely to +know," and there the matter dropped. It is humiliating to think, +that amongst white men banded together in exploring parties, where +the success and safety of the enterprise are much dependent on the +good conduct of each individual member, there should be found +individuals so ignoble, as to appropriate an undue share of the +common stock of food on which the health, and perhaps the life of +each equally depends; and yet, sad to say, such instances are not +singular. The well-proved charge against Gray of cooking flour for +himself privately, for which he was chastised by poor Burke, is one +instance. Gray's excuse was that he was so ill, and his apologists +point to the fact that he subsequently died. Either Burke or Wills +would have died on the spot, rather than have taken an ounce more +than their meanest companion, and yet it has been asked why this man +has had no monument. Again, in the unfortunate expedition of poor +Kennedy (not far from their present camp), the storekeeper of the +partyof the name of Niblett, was discovered to have largely pilfered +from the stores for a considerable time previously. Who knows that, +but for the deficiency his greed caused, more of that ill-fated party +might have held out until the succour arrived, guided by the heroic +black, Jacky, who risked his own life to save that of his master, and +whose name is as worthy of being held up for honour as that of the +white man's for contempt. + +<p><i>February</i> 3. -- This day was spent by the Brothers with their +black-boys in hunting for a good crossing place, or as they described +it, "doing a little water dogging." The river being two hundred +yards wide, and running rapidly, made it a difficult matter, and +after trying a number of places, it was found that as they were all +alike, deep and wide, they might as well cross opposite the camp. +This would not be without risk and danger, but the exigency of the +party made it necessary. Their flour was nearly exhausted, and they +had nothing else but the jerked meat of the beef they killed, and +what they could catch in the bush, to depend on. In this last, +however, as old hunters and bushmen, they were generally pretty +successful, supplementing and eking out their ordinary rations very +largely. The day previous their larder had been recruited by three +iguanas' eggs, a brush turkey (<i>Megapodius Tumulus</i>), and nine +turkeys' eggs. The rain came down as usual at intervals during the +day, which, added to the almost incessant rain of the four previous +days, brought the river down during the night, increasing its volume +and current so much as to make it dangerous to attempt crossing. + +<p><i>February</i> 4. -- The river being too high to cross, the start for the +Settlement was postponed, the fagged horses getting the benefit of +the delay. A beast was killed in the evening. The weather clearing, +Mr. Richardson was enabled to get correct observations for the +latitude, having succeeded in putting his sextant into tolerable +adjustment. The readings gave the latitude of camp 82 to be 11 +degrees 11 minutes 39 seconds, or about 33 miles south from Cape +York. Part of the day was employed in constructing a raft to float +over the saddles, rations, etc. This was done by stretching a hide +over a frame of wood, but not without some trouble, as it was found +that the only wood light enough for the purpose, was dead nonda, and +this being scarce, had to be searched for. Before evening, however, +a raft was finished sufficiently light for the purpose. + +<p><i>February</i> 5. -- The river having sunk considerably during the night, +the crossing was commenced this morning, despite the downpour of +rain, which lasted all day without a break. The stream was one +hundred and thirty yards wide, the banks fringed with scrub and +vines, and the current still running rapidly. It required therefore +strong and expert swimmers to get the horses across, the method being +as follows: -- One of the party went in first with a line made fast +to the bit of the horse's bridle, and another followed, holding on to +his tail by way of rudder. Now as a horse can swim faster than a +man, and is of course heavier in the water, the leader has no easy +task even if the horse swim honestly for the opposite bank, but +should he turn back or boggle at all, man and line are alike +powerless; the use of the rudder therefore will be seen. When the +leader reaches the opposite bank, he has to scramble up nimbly, or he +may have the horse on him, and arrived there, be in readiness with +the line to assist him should he get entangled in the saplings and +vines which fringe the banks. It will be remembered that in crossing +the Batavia on the 11th January, two horses were drowned, in spite of +every care and precaution. Here, however, they were fortunate enough +to cross their four horses without accident, Mr. Scrutton, old Eulah, +and the black-boys doing good service, being all excellent swimmers. +The saddles and rations were then floated over in the raft, also +without accident, and the advanced party (the Brothers and Eulah) +camped on the north side, leaving the remainder of the party and +cattle in charge of Mr. Scrutton. Even now, Frank Jardine was +uncertain as to what stream they were on, and still leaned to the +belief that it was the Escape, his faith in the result of the +observations, having been shaken by the accident to the sextant. +They failed to assist him in his opinion, which was sorely puzzled by +the river running westward. He considered it, therefore, absolutely +necessary to find the Settlement before moving the cattle forward, +his horses being so weak, as to make it useless to travel on in +uncertainty. The necessity for reaching their journey's end was +becoming urgent, for their tea and sugar were exhausted, their flour +nearly so, and some of the party were complaining of being unwell, +and getting very weak. + +<p><i>February</i> 6. -- The second start was made this morning, the Brothers +intending to find either the Settlement or the mouth of the Escape. +Their course for the first 15 miles was N.N.East, over barren white +sandy country, covered with brushwood and scrub. At 7 miles a large +deep running creek was crossed, running westward. Its south bank was +so densely covered with vine scrub, that they had to walk and cut +their way through it with their tomahawks. After crossing it, the +country suddenly changed to thickly timbered sandy ridges, some being +rocky, of course sandstone, the more elevated ones having belts of +impenetrable scrub running along their crest. At 12 miles a fine +sheet of water was passed, surrounded by sandy coarsely-grassed +ridges. At 15 miles, from a line of high ridges forming a +saddle-range, they had a view of the ocean, and could distinguish a +few small islands out to sea. It might have been seen sooner but for +the drizzling rain which fell with little intermission. The range +was of red soil, timbered with bloodwood, and stringy-bark. Two +miles further on the country improved still more, continuing from +thence into their camp, 6 miles. The course was altered from the +range to N. by E., and at 20 miles a white hill was reached, from +which they looked down on the sea about half-a-mile distant beneath +them. This was Newcastle Bay. Turning westward and skirting the +coast, they travelled 3 miles further on, and camped on a palm creek, +with very steep banks. Large flocks of the Torres Strait pigeons +flew over in the evening. Distance travelled 23 miles. + +<p><i>February</i> 7. -- The good country traversed yesterday ceased at a +creek half-a-mile from the camp, on crossing which the party had to +cut their way as usual, after which the course skirting the coast lay +over a villainous country, boggy swamps, brushwood and scrub. After +travelling 7 or 8 miles their progress was arrested by a large stream +three-quarters-of-a-mile in width, running rapidly from the W.N.W. +Its banks were low and muddy, covered with a wide belt of dense +mangroves, its muddy and swollen waters carrying down quantities of +rubbish. This they correctly surmised to be the mouth of the +veritable "Escape" but Frank Jardine was again in error in supposing +it to be the same stream that they had left the cattle on. Seeing so +large a stream he naturally reverted to the idea that it had turned +on itself, and that their first exploration had stopped before +reaching the turning point. His case was dispiriting in the extreme. +The main camp was not more than 15 miles in latitude south of his +present position. The Settlement, the long-wished end of their +journey, could not be more than 20 to the North, yet his progress was +arrested by a broad and rapid river, to head the supposed bend of +which he had ineffectually travelled nearly 50 miles. His plan was +now to follow the Escape up in hopes of being able to cross at the +head of the tide, and so reach Somerset, but this, as will be seen, +was more easily planned than executed. Following up the course of +the river the way lay over a country which Alexander Jardine mentions +in his notes as "too bad to describe," pandanus swamps, vine scrubs, +and small creeks swollen by the rains to a swimmable depth, +succeeding one another along the whole stage. At the latter the +horses had always to be unpacked and their saddles taken over on the +heads of the party. Three hours were consumed in cutting their way +through the last of the vine scrubs, when they camped on the outside, +three of the horses being completely knocked up. The Brothers then +walked to the river in hopes of finding a crossing place. This +however, proved hopeless. A thick matted fringe of mangroves nearly +three miles wide intervened between them and its bank, through which +it was next to impossible to make any headway. Their supper to-night +was augmented by a lucky "find" during the day of thirteen scrub +turkeys' eggs, which, though they would scarcely have been +appreciated at an ordinary breakfast table, were very acceptable to +tired and hungry travellers existing principally on jerked beef. +Eating what yolk or white they contained, they plucked and roasted +the chicks as a "bonne-bouche." Fires had to be kept going day and +night to drive away, and protect the poor miserable horses from the +march and sand-flies by day, and mosquitoes by night. These were, in +fact, the principal cause of the poverty and debility of the poor +brutes, who could never get a moment's rest to feed or sleep. +Twenty-two miles were accomplished to-day, despite their difficulties. + +<p><i>February</i> 8. -- The journey was continued to-day up the Escape, the +course of which was very crooked, but generally N.W. by N. The +horses knocked up a few miles after starting. The party were +therefore obliged to walk and drive them before them. The country +traversed was similar to that of yesterday, so that they could not +get more than a-mile-and-a-half an hour out of the poor jaded beasts. +Three times they tried to make into the river bank, but without +success, from the great width and the density of the belt of +mangroves, and the soft mud. An old black's camp was passed in which +they found heaps of shells, turtle, and shark bones. In the evening +they caught a quantity of whelks and cockles, which, with an iguana, +and three turkeys' eggs, made a good supper. + +<p><i>February</i> 9. -- The course of the river to-day was even more crooked +than yesterday, the nature of the country continuing the same, save +that the swampy ground was occasionally broken by ridges of +bloodwood, and stringy-bark. From a tree on one of these they had a +fine view of Newcastle Bay, and what was supposed to be Mount +Adolphus Island, the latter about 25 miles away, and could trace the +course of the river to where it debouched, by the stretch of +mangroves. Here, therefore, they were within 20 miles of their +destination, which they were tantalised by seeing, without being able +to reach. With difficulty they drove their horses before them for 7 +miles, when they turned out and camped, as well to hunt, as again to +try and reach the river. In the first they were pretty successful, +getting some turkeys' eggs and shell-fish, but the last they were +unable to do, mud and mangroves barring their way, whilst the salt +water proved to them that they were still within the influence of the +tide, and the stream was still between three and four hundred yards +wide. Despairing of being able to find a crossing to which they +could fetch the cattle, their horses being unable to cross the river, +to continue the search for Somerset in advance, and their scanty +provision of flour being nearly exhausted, Frank Jardine, reluctantly +abandoning the idea of getting into the Settlement, determined to +return to the cattle, and with them, head the supposed bend of the +Escape. Disheartening as this was, there was nothing else to be done +in the present state of the country. Distance travelled, 7 miles +westerly. + +<p><i>February</i> 10. -- Turning their backs on the mangroves and swamps of +the Escape River, the little party faced for the camp, steering +S.S.E. The first four miles was through boggy, swampy country, +through which they walked, driving their horses before them. The +remainder was over the usual iron-bark and bloodwood ridges, fairly +grassed with coarse grasses, intersected with swamps and belts of scrub, +through one of which they were three hours in forcing their way two +miles. After 11 miles of this kind of travelling they camped, the +horses completely knocked up, the men in not much better condition, +having had to drag the horses out of bogs several times, besides +cutting through the hanging vines of the scrubs. Distance 12 miles. + +<p><i>February</i> 11. -- The main camp was reached to-day, after another +fatiguing journey of 11 or 12 miles, the first 6 miles similar to +that of yesterday, the remainder through heath and brushwood. It was +sundown before they reached the river, which they found much swollen. +A heavy thunder-shower of two hours' duration, put up all the creeks +bank high, one of which, at about two miles from the river, they had +to swim across. Having struck it immediately opposite the camp, they +left their jaded horses with their saddles on the north side, and +swam across themselves to the party. During their absence another of +the horses, "Pussey," had died from exhaustion. + +<p><i>February</i> 12. -- The meat at the camp being all consumed, it became +necessary to halt for a couple of days, in order to kill and jerk a +beast. The flour too was now exhausted, save 10 lbs., which was +judiciously put by and reserved for an emergency. The day was spent +in crossing back the four horses, with saddles and swags. The cattle +were counted and some found missing; the Black-boys were therefore +sent in search of them. A beast was killed, cut up, and jerked, a +tedious task, from the absence of the sun. Although there were only +a few light showers towards evening, the air was damp; the meat, +therefore, had to be smoked under a covering. + +<p><i>February</i> 13. -- The lost cattle were found to-day, the jerking of +the meat finished, and preparations for a final start on the morrow +completed. The unfortunate horses were in such wretched condition, +that it was found necessary to lighten the loads to the Settlement. +Four pack-saddles, two police saddles, and the two belonging to the +Brothers were therefore abandoned, with the remainder of the odds and +ends. The prospect before them was not very bright. With no +provision save jerked meat, and with knocked-up horses, they were +starting on a journey of at least 100 miles, when their destination +was not more than 30 miles away from them. they hoped to head the +bend of the river they were on (having reverted to the opinion that +it was the Escape), without knowing how far beyond the lowest point +of their first exploration this turning-point might be, or what +obstructions might be a-head of them. On the other hand, the whole +of the party were without sickness, and they had plenty of cattle to +eat. + +<p><i>February</i> 14. -- A final start was made this morning from camp 82, +of dreary memory, after a good deal of trouble in packing, choosing +and rejecting what was too heavy or useless, and the other delays +attendant on the breaking up of an established camp. The river was +followed for 11 miles with the usual amount of bogging and +difficulty, in crossing the small trench-like creeks already +mentioned. In one of these they were compelled to abandon another +horse (Tabinga). The poor brute fell in trying to cross, and when +pulled out and set on his legs was too weak to stand. He had to be +left, therefore, saddle and all. Another (Pussy) having died at the +last camp, their number was now reduced to thirteen. Their loads +were reduced to the slightest possible, and consisted merely of the +jerked meat, the ammunition, and swags of the party. Distance 11 +miles. (Camp LXXXIII.) + +<p><i>February</i> 15. -- A gloomy morning with light showers, 10 miles were +accomplished to-day. Three hours were consumed in crossing one of +the boggy gullies. Every horse had to be unpacked, and half of them +had to be pulled across with ropes. The pack of another horse (Lady +Scott) had to be abandoned. She was too weak to carry even the empty +saddle. The camp was pitched in the angle formed by the large creek +running into the river just below the gunyah camp of their first +trip, mentioned January 30th. (Camp LXXXIV.) + +<p><i>February</i> 16. -- The Eliot was reached to-day 8 miles from the camp. +It had fallen considerably, but was still too high to allow of +crossing without taking off the packs. It was about thirty yards +wide, and running clear, about five feet deep, where the party +crossed. The camp was pitched on the main stream two miles further, +making a total of 10 miles for the day's journey. (Camp LXXXV. +Nonda.) + +<p><i>February</i> 17. -- The lowest camp of the Brothers on their first trip +was passed to-day at about 6 miles. The total distance they +estimated they had travelled down the river on that occasion was 40 +to 45 miles, as it will be remembered that they went 6 or 7 miles +beyond this camp on the 1st of February. The true distance to the +turning point by Mr. Richardson's reckoning, was estimated at 35 +miles, which is probably correct. Mr. Richardson in his journal of +to-day's date says, "they told me they had travelled 20 miles North +and 30 miles West." A glance at sheet No. 14 will shew this to have +been an error; and in a foot-note at February 2nd, he states, "I +afterwards found that these distances were incorrect. The true +distances West and North respectively from the 82nd camp to the point +in our track where the Leader turned back, are about 24 miles W. and +7 N." Now, considering the tortuous course of the river, the nature +of the country, the weather, and obstacles of the creeks, 6 miles is +not a great error in westing. Mr. Richardson's own reckoning, +generally, despite his advantage over the Brothers, in having nothing +to do but follow the cattle, was not more to be depended upon, whilst +the results of his observations by the sextant were not so much so, +as he naively informs us he did not think he error in Latitude was +more than 15 miles! It appears evident therefore that the dead +reckoning of the explorers was of equal, if not greater value, as far +as the journey was concerned, than the surveyor's, the chief result +and use of whose presence in the party is, that we have been +furnished with a very excellent and interesting map of the route; but +it by no means assisted the Leader in the piloting of the Expedition, +or resolved his doubts when at fault, either at this point or on +leaving the Einasleih in search of the Lynd. The party camped at the +end of about two miles on the right bank of a broad deep creek +running in from S.W., when after turning out, some of them went +fishing, but only one small cat-fish was caught. + +<p><i>February</i> 18. -- A slight rain fell during last night, but cleared +off before morning. The creek was crossed at about a mile from the +camp, cattle, horses, and men having to swim. The former took it +like water-dogs, and the latter had as usual to carry their saddles, +packs, and "traps" over on their heads. After ten miles of +travelling over poorly-grassed stringy-bark ridges, the country +resumed its old character of swamp, brushwood, and low scrubby banks, +flooded for four or five feet, the overflow filling swamps running +parallel, and about two or three hundred yards distant from the +river. This was followed during the day's march, and they were +elated with the hope that they had at length reached the much wished +for bend, the course being slightly to the eastward of north. It was +Mr. Jardine's intention to have again halted the party when they +reached this point, and once more pushed forward in search of +Somerset, but they were out of meat, and the party had started +without breakfast, there being nothing to eat. He therefore camped +at the end of 10 miles to kill a beast. there were a good many +delays during the march, chiefly to pull the exhausted horses out of +the constantly recurring bogs. Poor "Lady Scott" especially was with +great difficulty got into camp. Distance 10 miles, N. 1/2 E. (Camp +LXXXVII. Bloodwood) + +<p><i>February</i> 19. -- To-day was chiefly devoted to rest, and the cutting +up, jerking, and smoking of the beef by the whites, the black-boys, +after the manner of their race, dividing it pretty equally between +sleeping and stuffing. The meat curing was as usual a slow process, +there being no salt, and a gunyah having to be made to smoke it in. +The river was here first observed to have a rise and fall in it of +about six inches. Its width was about a quarter of a mile. + +<p>The latitude of this camp (87) is 11 degrees 11 minutes 13 seconds +The latitude of camp (82) is 10 degrees 58 minutes 2 seconds +The Northing therefore equals 13 minutes 11 seconds + +<p><i>February</i> 20. -- It commenced to rain at two o'clock this morning, +and continued heavily as the party started. The river again turned +to the Westward, to their great disappointment. The course was +continued along it for 9 miles, when they were brought to a +stand-still by a deep creek with boggy banks, twenty yards wide, +flowing from the South. It was evidently affected by the tide, as +the water was slightly brackish and the edge fringed by a species of +mangrove. A crossing-place was looked for without success, and the +camp was finally pitched, as the rain was pouring heavily. (Camp +LXXXVIII.) + +<p><i>February</i> 21. -- This morning the Brothers, taking old Eulah with +them, swam across the creek, alligators notwithstanding, and walked +to the top of a high stringy-bark ridge on the south side. Selecting +the highest tree he could find (a bloodwood) Alexander Jardine +ascended it with Eulah, and from its top branches got a view that +finally dispelled the doubts as to their position, and the identity +of the stream they had traced down. Before him, at about 3 miles +distant lay the mouth of the river, about 2 miles wide. Its course +could without difficulty be traced from where they were till it +debouched into the Gulf waters opposite a small island, which was +easily recognized as Barn Island, whilst to the North, Endeavour +Straits, and Prince of Wales Island could be distinctly seen. It was +now perfectly plain that the river they had followed was not the +Escape. They had therefore, been deceived a second time. It +received the very appropriate name of Deception, but has since, by +the direction of his Excellency Sir George Bowen, been charted, and +is now known by the name of the Jardine. Descending from his perch, +after half-an-hour spent in taking bearings by the compass to the +different points of interest, Mr. Jardine joined his brother, who at +once determined to return to camp 87, it being impossible to cross +where they were. Re-crossing the creek, they rejoined the party, +reaching the camp at sun-set, under a heavy downpour of rain. + +<p><i>February</i> 22. -- Although it was raining heavily with every +appearance of a continuance, the party started to return up the river +in excellent spirits. The Brothers were now certain that they should +have no difficulty in finding the Settlement on their next trip. +They were, however, very much puzzled as to where such a large stream +as the Escape was found to be, should rise. They now re-traced their +steps, and camped close to their last camp LXXXVII. Six miles. + +<p><i>February</i> 23. -- To-day was spent in killing and jerking a beast, +and preparing for the Leader's third start in search of the +Settlement. The rain poured down heavily, causing the river to rise +very fast. Another raft similar to that made at camp 83, had to be +constructed, a work of some time, for the only wood fit for making +the frame was dry nonda, which was scarce. The rain too, very much +impeded the drying of the beef, for which, as usual, a bark gunyah +had to be erected. Everything, however, was got well forward for the +important business of crossing the next morning. + +<p><i>February</i> 24. -- The horses, saddles, and rations were all crossed +in safety to-day, though not without difficulty. In swimming the +horses particular care had to be taken, for there was only one small +spot on the other side at which they could be landed. As explained +on the 5th, on the occasion of the second start, it requires a strong +swift swimmer to lead a horse across a stream, and in this the white +men, or at least, three of them, were much superior to the +black-boys, who, although all good swimmers, were much more efficient +in the service of the raft. This only illustrates the rule that most +white men can beat the aboriginal in swimming fast, whilst the latter +has superior endurance; but there is no doubt, that under the same +conditions of education and practice, the civilized white man is +superior to the savage in any physical function or exercise. The +rain poured down consistently during the whole of the day, and a cold +cutting wind drove the swimming party at intervals to the fires, +where, whilst toasting the outward, they solaced the inner man with a +decoction of Scrutton's, by courtesy called, soup, being an 'olla +podrida', or more properly "bouillon," of the bones, gristle, head, +and oddments of the lately-killed beast. This was always a stock +repast after each kill-day, and there is but little doubt but that +its "osmazome" contributed not a little, to the good health and heart +of the party. Almost every exploring party on short commons, records +some favourite cookery, some dish that their souls loved. In +McKinlay's journey, the dish most in vogue was a kind of "amorphous" +black-pudding, made of the carefully-saved blood of the bullock, +horse, or sheep, as the case might be, boiled with some fat, and +seasoned with a little condiment, which being of light carriage, can +always be saved for such high occasions. In the present instance, +the fat was always devoted to the greasing of the saddles, +pack-straps, etc., during the latter part of the journey, when +clothing was at a premium; of the explorers themselves, "more +aboriginum," who found that the protection it afforded them against +cold, wet, and mosquitoes, far outweighed any slight redolence, +which, after all, could only be offensive to anyone not equally +anointed. At night the Brothers camped on the north side of the +Deception, or Jardine, leaving the party again to await their report +and return, the cattle being in charge of Scrutton. + +<p><i>February</i> 25. -- There was an early start this morning, but the +little party did not make much headway that day, for after two miles +of boggy brushwood country their progress was suddenly arrested by a +sea of water, the overflow of a large creek, the outline of which +could be traced by a fringe of dark green foliaged trees. Some +fruitless attempts were made to cross it at different points. At the +narrowest part they could find, on running it down at a spot where +the channel was hemmed in by ridges on either side, it was still +half-a-mile wide, and running very strongly in the actual channel. +They therefore had to resign themselves to wait patiently till the +flood went down, apparently not a near prospect, for the rain still +continued to drizzle unceasingly. After hunting about for some time +they were fortunate enough to find a good dry camp when turning out, +they disposed themselves to await the subsidence of the water, with +what patience they might. The next two days were spent in hunting +for the pot, and exploring for a good crossing place. In the former +they met with no success, all they were able to find being a kind of +wild grape, about the size of a small marble. They are black and +sweet, and as Alexander Jardine describes, "very good to eat, but +they take all the skin off the tongue and lips!" On the evening of +the second day they had the pleasure of seeing that the creek was +slowly going down, giving promise that they might be able to cross it +on the morrow. + +<p><i>February</i> 28. -- This morning they had the satisfaction of seeing +that the creek had fallen sufficiently to enable them to cross, but +not without swimming. At the spot they chose for going over the +stream was about fifteen yards wide, but the current very rapid. The +horses were crossed in the usual manner, swimming with their saddles +on their backs, but the rations, etc., were passed over by a +different method, one which did credit to the projector. A kind of +flying suspension bridge was improvised, by which they were slung to +the other side, in a manner proving that necessity is the mother of +invention. By attaching one end of their light tent-line to the +branches of an over-hanging tree on the hither side, and the other +end to a butt on the opposite bank, the "swag" slid down by its own +gravity, and was safely crossed. Their <i>impedimenta</i> were thus +safely transported to the opposite bank, the whole process occupying +about an hour. They were well re-paid for their long patience, for +immediately on attaining the other side, the country changed into +good sound well-grassed stringy-bark ridges, which continued +throughout the whole stage, with the exception of a few broad +tea-tree gullies. They encamped at about 10 miles. Poor old Eulah +experienced to-day, what he felt was a cruel disappointment. Just +before getting into camp he espied what he supposed to be a fresh +turkey's nest (the 'Talegalla Lathami'); jumping off his horse, he +eagerly commenced rooting it up, expecting to be rewarded by a fine +haul of eggs. These, as is the habit of that bird, were deposited in +a large mound formed of sticks, earth, and leaves. His +disappointment and disgust were equal, and his language forcible and +deep, on finding that he had been anticipated -- the big mound was +the abode of emptiness. The mystery was cleared up on going on a +little way, when they found a black's camp about two days old, where +the egg-chips shewed that the occupants had enjoyed Eulah's +anticipated feed, the piccaninnies probably amusing themselves +afterwards by filling up the nest to its original appearance. In the +evening, whilst Alexander Jardine, was preparing the frugal supper +(they generally ate their jerked meet raw, but on this occasion he +was cooking it for a change), the Leader and Eulah walked to the top +of a small sandy conical hill, about half-a-mile distant, when +climbing the highest tree, they could find, they were rewarded by a +fine view of Newcastle Bay, on the south-east of the bight, on which +they were now camped. They had also the great satisfaction of +finding that they had at last headed the Escape River. + +<p><i>March</i> 1. -- "A nasty wet morning." The trio started early, +thinking it quite possible that they might "pull up" something or +other belonging to the Settlement before night, but they kept their +thoughts to themselves. They had had so many disappointments that +they felt that to hazard a guess even, was a mistake. After +travelling over a great deal of low scrub and brushwood, which, +however, was better than boggy ground ("to be without one or the +other," says Alexander Jardine "would have been too much to expect") +during a heavy shower of rain, about three o'clock, whilst riding +over some low sandy ridges they suddenly came on to a number of +blacks, camped on the outside of a thick scrub, at a point where it +abutted on a small creek. The travellers immediately unslung their +carbines, very dubious however as to whether they would go off (for +they were all damp,) and prepared for the customary "set-to." As +hitherto, in all these encounters, they had always without any show +of hostility on their part, been at once attacked, they were +surprised to find the blacks, who were very numerous, bolt into the +scrub, with the exception of three who stood their ground, and +holding up their empty hands shewed that they were unarmed, dancing +and shouting vociferously. Eulah was the first to detect what they +said, and reining up called out "hold on, you hearim, that one bin +yabber English." the brothers halted and listened. Sure enough they +distinctly heard the savages shouting excitedly "Alico, Franco, +Dzoco, Johnnie, Toby, tobacco, and other English words. It was now +evident that they had met with friendly natives, who were acquainted +with the Settlement, so they went forward and spoke to them. The +blacks still continued to shout their shibboleth, pointing to +Somerset, which they called "Kaieeby." After taking a rough +inventory of the camp, without, however, finding anything that could +have come from the Settlement, they started two of the most +intelligent in front of them, making them understand by signs, that +they wanted to be guided by the shortest route to Cape York. This +they had no difficulty in doing, for they were by far the most +intelligent blacks they had met with. The whole party now started +forward, the sable guides piloting them over the best ground. In +about 7 miles they arrived at a shallow salt-water creek, that +empties itself into a northern inlet of Newcastle Bay. Here they met +with a large body of unarmed blacks, who after making a great many +signs, came up and presented them with some spears and wommerahs, +which they had concealed in the mangroves, possibly as an earnest of +peace. They also brought them a villainous compound, in some +dilly-bags, a mixture of mangrove-roots and berries, pounded up into +a pulp, of a yellowish color. Although it was very disagreeable to +the taste, the travellers eat of it in token of confidence in their +hosts, or rather to make them believe that they trusted them, for +they were too well acquainted with the aboriginal nature to trust +them in reality, and kept a wary though unobserved watch. The tide +being in, and it being very late when the salt-water creek was +reached, the Brothers determined to camp with their newly-made +friends at their main camp, and accordingly followed them for about +two miles, when they again hit the salt creek. Here three large +canoes were moored to the mangroves, the largest was about 28 feet +long, and 30 inches wide, cut out of the solid butt of some large +tree, and very neatly finished. The tent was pitched, but not made +much use of, for after dark the travellers left it and camped +separately, each keeping vigilant watch all night. The natives spent +it very differently, and, whether in honor of the whites, or in +anticipation of picking their bones (it might have been either) they +held high corroboree till about midnight, keeping up a fearful din, +in which two large drums formed a prominent part. The name of this +kind of drum is "Waropa" or "Burra Burra," and it is procured in +barter or war from the Islanders of Torres Straits, who frequently +visit the continent. It is neatly made of a solid piece of wood +scooped out, in shape like an elongated dice box. One end is covered +with the skin of a snake or iguana, the other being left open. When +this instrument is played upon by a muscular and excited "nigger," a +music results which seems to please him in proportion to its +intensity; keeping time with these, and aiding with their voices, +they kept up their wild dance varying the chant with the peculiar +b-r-r-r-r-r-r-oo, of the Australian savage (a sound made by +"blubbering" his thick lips over his closed teeth,) and giving to +their outstretched knees the nervous tremor peculiar to the +corroboree. But a corroboree, like the ball of civilized life must +have an end, and at length the tired dancers sought their several +lairs, leaving the whites to watch the watery moon and lurid stars, +and listen to the dull plashing of the tide through the mangroves, +whilst waiting for daylight. + +<p><i>March</i> 2. -- At daylight the party started forward, accompanied by a +strong detachment of "black guards," who were much disgusted when the +greater number of them were dismissed before they had proceeded far, +no doubt wishing and expecting to share in the "bacca" or "bissiker," +which would reward the pilots. Mr. Jardine selected the three they +had first met as guides, who turned out capital fellows. They +explained that to go straight they would have "mouro pia" much scrub, +and therefore led the way along the beach, carefully shewing the +horsmen the hardest places on the sands. In rounding one of the +rocky headlands, Eulah's horse fell with him, causing the greatest +amusement and merriment to the body-guard. To be laughed at by +Myalls was nearly too much for Eulah's equanimity, and could he have +had his own way he would probably have resented the insult. As it +was, his ire could only find vent in deeply muttered objurgations and +abuse. At about noon the party sighted the Settlement, and +involuntarily pulled up to gaze at the scattered and insignificant +buildings they had so long and ardently desired to see and struggled +to reach, hardly realizing that the goal was at last attained; when +they again moved forward theguides set up an admonitary yell, which +had the effect of bringing Mr. Jardine and their brother John to the +door. For a considerable time before the arrival of the overland +party, Mr. Jardine had not been without some uneasiness for the +success and safety of the expedition. The time for their probable +arrival had long elapsed. A report had reached him by the +"Salamander" from Rockingham Bay, that the party were on the Lynd, +unable to move forward for want of water, and that their provision +was exhausted, and finally the wet season had set in. To facilitate +their endeavours in finding the Settlement (a work of more than +ordinary difficulty, arising from the intricacy of the rivers and +scrubby nature of the country, at the apex of the Cape York +peninsula,) Mr. Jardine had cut a marked tree line for 30 miles in a +south-westerly direction, meeting a similarly marked line running +east and west from the head of the Kennedy to the west or Gulf Coast, +a distance of about 10 miles. On the latter and on either side of +the longitudinal line, trees were marked at intervals, with +instructions for their course, so that the party hitting the east and +west line would be guided to the junction of the first one leading +into the Settlement. The east and west line, it has been seen they +overran, the rapid tropical growth of the scrub having so far +obliterated it as to make it difficult to notice, or find, even if +sought for. Yet through any depression that might naturally be +induced by the delay, whatever his fears might have been for the +success of the expedition, he felt none for the safety of his sons, +well knowing and relying on their dauntless pluck, energy, and +fitness for the work. His parting injunction to them had been, that +whatever might betide, 'they should keep together'. He knew that he +would not be disobeyed, and felt firm in the faith that, should the +party by misfortune be reduced to their own two selves, with only +their tomahawks in their hands, they would make their way to him. +Thus, firmly reliant on the qualities of his boys, he waited with +patience, and his faith was well rewarded. On the morning of the 2nd +of March, Mr. Jardine being employed in some matters about the house, +during an "evendown" pour of rain, was disturbed by a loud shouting, +and looking out saw a number of blacks running up to the place. +Imagining that the Settlement was about to receive another attack, +(for the little community had already had to repulse more than one,) +he seized his gun, always in readiness for an "alerte" and rushed +out. Instead, however, of the expected enemy, he had the pleasure of +seeing his long-looked-for sons, surrounded and escorted by their +sable guides. For a long time previous, the natives who visited the +Settlement had been made to understand that Mr. Jardine expected his +sons with horses and cattle, and had been familiarized with their +names, "Franco" "Alico" as also with others such as "Somerset," "Cape +York," "Salamander," and "Toby," (Mr. Jardine's well-known retreiver) +the intention being that these should act as pass words when they met +the party, a wise precaution, which, as it has been seen, probably +prevented a collision. Thus, on nearing the Settlement the blacks +set up the shouts that had alarmed him, screaming out his name Joko, +Franco, Alicko, and such was the eagerness of each to prove that he +(smiting himself on the breast) was "Kotaiga" or friend, pointing at +the same time to the Brothers, as a witness of their truth, that it +was with some difficulty that the Father could reach his sons to +greet and welcome them. But for the horses they bestrode, even a +father's eye might have failed to distinguish them from the blacks by +whom they were surrounded. Six months of exposure to all weathers +had tanned their skins, and so reduced their wardrobe, as to make +their appearance primitive in the extreme, their heads being covered +with a cap of emu feathers, and their feet cased in green hide +mocassins. The rest of their costume was <i>a l'ecossaise</i>, their +pantaloons being reduced to the waist-bands and pockets, the legs +having for a long time been matters of remembrance only. However, +they were hearty and well, in high spirits, and in good case. During +the hubbub caused by the tumultuous demonstrativeness of the natives, +an amusing episode occurred, which is worthy of record. The +attendant of Mrs. McClintock, a fine strapping girl from the Emerald +Isle, whose good humour and light-heartedness in the discomforts of a +new Settlement had earned her the name of cheerful Ellen, hearing the +tumult outside, and seeing Mr. Jardine rush out gun in hand, imagined +also that they were about to have another attack. Seizing her +mistress in her arms, with more kindness than ceremony, she bore her +away to her own room, where, having deposited her burden, she turned +the key on her, saying, "that was no place for her whilst fighting +was going on." Nor was it until she was well assured that there had +been a false alarm that the kind-hearted wench released her mistress +from durance. + +<p>It must be left to the imagination of the reader to realize the +swelling feelings of joy and pride with which the Father grasped the +hands of his gallant sons. After a separation of more than ten +months, his boys had found their way to him at the extremity of the +Australian Continent, by a journey of over 1600 miles, whose +difficulties, hardships, dangers, and escapes, have seldom been +parallelled, and never been surpassed in the whole annals of +exploration. Had they, like poor Lichhardt, Kennedy, or Burke and +Wills, perished in the attempt, they would have been honored as +heroes, and a tablet or monument would been handed down their names +to posterity. As it was, thanks to a kind Providence, they were +living heroes, who had sturdily accomplished their work, and brought +their companions through without hurt or casualty. The modesty which +is ever the attribute of true merit, will probably cause their cheeks +to tinge in finding their exploits thus eulogized, but assuredly it +is no exaggeration of praise to say, that they have won for +themselves a lasting and honorable name in the records of Australian +Exploration. + +<h3>CHAPTER VI.</h3> + +<blockquote>Chose Site for Station -- Native Method of Using Tobacco -- Return +for the Cattle -- The Lakes -- Reach the Camp -- Another Horse Dead +-- The Whole Party Cross the Jardine -- Raft Upset -- Cargo Saved -- +Deserted by Guides -- Final Start for Settlement -- Another Horse +Abandoned -- Horses Knocked Up -- Cattle Missing -- Choppagynya -- +Reach Vallack Point -- Conclusion.</blockquote> + +<p>On the afternoon of their arrival in Somerset, the Brothers, after a +"slight" luncheon, in which Mr. Jardine's preserved vegetables +received very particular attention, manned the whale-boat belonging +to the Settlement, and pulled over the Straits to Albany Island to +get fresh horses. Two were got over, but night coming on, the +crossing of the rest was deferred until the next day. The Strait is +three-quarters-of-a-mile wide, which, with a current running upwards +of five knots an hour, makes it an exhausting swim even for a strong +horse. The next morning three more horses were crossed. The five +expedition horses which these re-placed were in a miserable +condition. Three of them had given in on the preceding day, two +miles from the township, and had to be left behind for the time. +With the fresh horses the Brothers were enabled to take a look about +them, and select a site for the formation of a cattle station. A +convenient spot was chosen at Vallack Point, about three miles from +Somerset, to which it now only remained for them to fetch up their +companions and the cattle. Two days were spent in recruiting the +horses, the explorers themselves, probably, enjoying the "dolce far +niente" and change of diet. The black guides were not forgotten, and +received their reward of biscuit and tobacco. The manner in which +they use this latter is curious, and worthy of notice. Not satisfied +with the ordinary "cutty" of the whites, they inhale it in volumes +through a bamboo cane. The effect is a profound stupefaction, which +appears to be their acme of enjoyment. On the morning of the 5th, +taking with them their younger brother, John Jardine, and their two +guides, Harricome and Monuwah, and the five fresh horses, in addition +to their own, the Brothers started to return to the cattle party, who +were anxiously awaiting their return on the banks of the flooded +Jardine. The black pilots were made to understand where the camp +was, and promised to take them by a good road. The first stage was +to the Saltwater Creek, on which they had camped with the tribe, +which they reached in about 17 miles, passing on the way, three fine +lakes, Wetura, Baronto, and "Chappagynyah," at two, four, and eight +miles from Somerset. The road was a fair one for the cattle, keeping +along the line marked by Mr. Jardine the preceding year as before +mentioned, and only presented a few light belts of scrub to go +through. They were likewise enabled to choose a better crossing of +the Saltwater Creek, where the swamps join and form a defined +channel. The last two miles were very boggy, even the fresh and +well-conditioned horses getting stuck occasionally. + +<p><i>March</i> 6. -- The camp was reached in the evening of to-day, at the +end of about 22 miles, but the black pilots were of very little use, +as shortly after starting they fairly got out of their latitude, and +were obliged to resign the lead to the Brothers, who hit the river a +little before dark, nearly opposite the camp. They found it about +the same height as when first crossed, but it had been considerably +higher during their absence. It being too late to cross, the party +camped on their own side, and Messrs. Harricome and Monuwah swam over +to see the new strangers and get a supply of beef. They returned +with nearly a shoulder of a good sized steer, which entirely +disappeared before morning, the whole night being devoted to feeding. +The quantity of meat that a hungry native can consume is something +astounding, but in this case beat anything that any of the whole +party had ever seen. The natural result was a semi-torpor and a +perfectly visible distention. + +<p><i>March</i> 7. -- This morning the Brothers crossed over to the camp, +when they had the satisfaction of finding, on counting the cattle, +that a number were away, and when the horses were tried, two of them +were found missing, besides one that had died during their absence, +"Lady Scott." They were immediately sent for, and the remainder of +the party employed in preparing for the crossing, and killing a +beast. A fresh raft was made with the hide capable of carrying 400 +lbs. weight. The two Somerset blacks evinced a great deal of +surprise at sight of the cattle, and expressed it by chirping and +making various curious noises with their tongues and mouths. +Accustomed chiefly to fish, herbs, and roots, the succulent beef had +charms which outweighed surprise, and another night was spent in +feasting on the "oddments" of the fresh killed beef. + +<p><i>March</i> 8. -- The missing cattle and horses were brought in with the +exception of three, which prevented the party crossing to-day, +although all was now in readiness. The river was still 200 yards +wide, and running strongly, so that it was expedient to cross the +whole together. + +<p><i>March</i> 9. -- The three missing cattle not having been found, the +crossing operations were commenced at mid-day. The width and +appearance of the river made it difficult to make the cattle face it, +but they were all safely crossed after a little time, with the +exception of one, which broke away, and could not be recovered. The +pack-horses were then put over, which was easily accomplished, and it +then only remained to cross the packs and baggage. The raft answered +admirably, and everything was ferried over in safety, till the last +cargo, when a little adventure occurred, which nearly cost the life +of one of the party. Cowderoy, being unable to swim, had to be taken +across holding on to the raft, and was, therefore, left to the last; +all went well with him until within 30 yards of the bank, when, +whether from trepidation, induced by visions of alligators (with +which the river indeed abounds), or from an attempt to strike out +independently, he "succeeded" in upsetting and sinking the raft, and +was with some difficulty got to the shore "quitte pour la peur." In +truth it requires some nerve for a man who can't swim to cross a wide +and rapid river. Without a confiding trust in the means adopted for +his transport, a catastrophe is not an unlikely result. The writer +has known instances of persons crossing broad rivers supported by a +spear held between two blacks, by holding on to a bullock's tail, and +even sitting on a horse's back, but in every case the success of the +attempt depends almost entirely on the coolness of the individual, +and even with this essential, he has known some fatal cases, so that +Cowderoy might congratulate himself on his safe transit. The packs, +etc., which formed the last cargo, were recovered after some time, +the distance from the shore being slight, and Cowderoy soon recovered +his accustomed good humor. By four o'clock everything had been +crossed in safety, save the four beasts before mentioned; but on +camping for the night it was found that the guides had decamped, +their unwonted high feeding, having, no doubt, induced an +indisposition to work, a result not confined to blacks alone. + +<p><i>March</i> 10. -- This morning the "Cowal," or watercourse, which had +detained the Brothers on their first trip, had to be swum over, and +here poor Ginger, one of the horses, got hopelessly bogged, and +though got out and put on his legs with saplings, was too exhausted +to go on,and had to be abandoned. The distance accomplished was 11 +miles. + +<p><i>March</i> 11. -- The line marked by Mr. Jardine was followed to-day. A +scrub occurred on a creek called Wommerah Creek, through which it +took two hours to drive the cattle. Only 10 miles were made, and the +camp was pitched at about 4 miles from the mouth of the creek where +the corroboree was held. Three horses were knocked up during the +day, which prevented their gotting as far as intended. + +<p><i>March</i> 12. -- On counting the cattle it was found that 30 head had +been dropped in coming through the scrub at Wommerah Creek. Two of +the black-boys were sent after them, and the Brothers went out to +find a crossing-place over Ranura Creek, (their last camp in +Somerset.) Here they met the same tribe, (known as Wognie's,) and +bartered "bacca" and "bissika," against "moro wappi," or fish, with +which the camp was plentifully supplied in the evening. The cattle +were recovered all but five. The country is described as being +composed of ridges of white and red sand, intersected by swamps of +tea-tree, pandanus, and banksia, the crest of the ridges being +generally surmounted by a patch of scrub. The timber, bloodwood, +mahogany, stringy-bark, and nonda. + +<p><i>March</i> 13. -- A late start was made to-day, for some of the horses +were away. The camp was formed on the banks of the lake +before-mentioned, 8 miles from Somerset, Chappagynyah, which is +described as teeming with crocodiles. tThe next day the party +reached their final resting place, probably not without some +exhiliration in feeling that their journey was over. They were met +at Baronto, by Mr. Jardine, who had ridden out from Somerset for the +purpose. The camp was established at Vallack Point, where the +wearied horses and cattle at length found rest, whilst their drivers +were able to indulge in the unwonted luxuries of regular feeding and +uninterrupted sleep: luxuries which few but those who have +experienced hunger and broken rest can fully appreciate. They had +been on the road for 5 months, travelled over 1600 miles, the last +250 of which were, as we have seen, performed on foot, and by most of +the party barefooted, whilst for the last four weeks their food had +consisted chiefly of jerked veal, fish without salt, and the wild +fruits and herbs they might find in the bush. In addition to the +distance travelled over by the whole party, and over which the cattle +were driven, the Brothers traversed more than 1200 miles in their +exploratory trips ahead, looking for the lost horses, etc. Alexander +Jardine's journey down the Einasleih alone amounted to little less +than 300. It may be imagined, therefore, that the return to the +habits and fare of civilized life must have been an agreeable change. + +<p>After an interval employed by the Brothers in forming a station at +Vallack Point, they returned with their father to Brisbane, in H.M.S. +Salamander, leaving their younger brother, John, in charge of the +newly-formed station, where the cattle were doing well. Mr. +Richardson left in the same vessel, and on arriving in Brisbane +immediately set to work to chart the route. Having every facility at +hand in the office of the Surveyor-General, the error of the river +Lynd was rectified, and a map compiled, shewing the route, from which +that now presented to the reader has been reduced. A glance at it +will shew that a large tract of unexplored country exists between the +track of the Jardines and that of Kennedy, which affords ample scope +for, and may possibly repay future explorations. Already stock is on +the road to occupy country on the lower Einasleih, and it is not +improbable that before long the rich valley of the Archer will add +its share to the pastoral wealth of Queensland. + +<h5>FINIS.</h5> + +<a name="pic2"></a> +<center> +<img alt="" src="jardine-scene.jpg"> +<p><b>SOMERSET CAPE YORK. Lithograph.</b></p> +</center> + +<h3>APPENDIX</h3> + +<h4>THE MELALEUCA (<i>Tea-tree Gum M. Leucodendron.</i>)</h4> + +<p>This tree, of which there are several varieties, is very common to +Northern Australia; the drooping kind (<i>Melaleuca Leucodendron</i>), +occupying the beds and margins of the rivers, where its long pendant +branches weeps the stream, as does the graceful willow of Europe. +Its bark is in thin paper-like layers, whilst its leaves are like +that of the gum, but thinner and straighter. It is remarkable for +containing an extraordinary quantity of brackish water, which pours +out in a torrent, when the bark is cut through, to the extent of from +a quart to a gallon. Another variety is found chiefly in flat sandy +country and shallow swamps. It is much smaller than that of the +rivers, and the leaves broader, stiff, and upright, its blossoms +nearly the same. It is indifferently called weeping gum, tea-tree +gum, and tea-tree, although it is in no way allied to the latter. It +is with the upright kind that the arid levels of the Staaten are +chiefly timbered. + +<h4>GARRAWAN.</h4> + +<p>This scrub, one of the numerous family of accacia, which together +with the pandanus, gave the travellers so much annoyance on their +journey, occupies a large extent of country about the Richardson +range, from the Batavia to Cape York. It much resembles, and is +probably identical with that which grows in the neighbourhood of +Sydney, to the appearance of which, indeed, that part of the +Peninsula closely resembles. + +<h4>FLOCK PIGEON OF THE GULF (<i>Phaps Histrionica.</i>)</h4> + +<p>These beautiful pigeons which are alluded to by Leichhardt, are at +certain seasons found in immense flocks in the plain country about +the Gulf of Carpentaria. Their range is wide, as in 1846 they +appeared in flocks of countless multitudes on the Murrimbidgee River, +N.S.W., probably driven from their usual regions by drought. They +are described and figured in Mr. Gould's great work on the Australian +birds. + +<h4>THE EINASLEIH.</h4> + +<p>This river was erroneously supposed by its first settlers to be the +Lynd of Leichhardt. That such was not the case, was proved by +Alexander Jardine, who traced it down for 180 miles from Carpentaria +Downs, when he turned back, within about a day's stage of its +junction with the Gilbert, fully satisfied that it could not be the +Lynd. Since then it has, I believe, been traced into the Gilbert, +and thence to the Gulf. Its importance would lead to the supposition +that it was the principal branch of the Gilbert. There is an +excellent cattle country on the lower part, as described in the text +which has probably ere this been occupied by our pioneers. + +<h4>THE NONDA (<i>Parinarium Nonda. F. Mueller.</i>)</h4> + +<p>This tree so named by Leichhardt's black-boys (described in Bentham's +<i>Flora Australiensis</i>), is very abundant north of the Einasleih, +which is possibly the extreme latitude of its zone south. It formed +an important accession to the food of the party, and it is highly +probable that their good health may be attributable to the quantity +of fruit, of which this was the principal, which they were able to +procure, there being no case of scurvy during the journey, a +distemper frequently engendering in settled districts, when there is +no possibility of varying the diet with vegetables. The foliage of +the tree is described as of a bright green, the fruit very abundant, +and much eaten by the natives. It is of about the size and +appearance of a yellow egg plum, and in taste like a mealy potatoe, +with, however, a trace of that astringency so common to Australian +wild fruits. The wood is well adapted for building purposes. + +<h4>BURDEKIN DUCK (<i>Tadorna Raja</i>).</h4> + +<p>This beautiful species of shelldrake, though not numerous, has a wide +range, extending from the richmond river to Cape York. It frequents +the more open flats at the mouths of rivers and creeks. + +<h4>THE NATIVE BEE.</h4> + +<p>This little insect (called Wirotheree in the Wellington dialect), the +invasion of whose hoards so frequently added to the store of the +travellers, and no doubt assisted largely in maintaining their +health, is very different from the European bee, being in size and +appearance like the common house-fly. It deposits its honey in trees +and logs, without any regular comb, as in the case of the former. +These deposits are familiarly known in the colony as "sugar bags," +(sugar bag meaning, aboriginice, anything sweet), and require some +experience and proficiency to detect and secure the aperture by which +the bees enter the trees, being undistinguishable to an unpractised +eye. The quantity of honey is sometimes very large, amounting to +several quarts. Enough was found on one occasion to more than +satisfy the whole party. Its flavor differs from that of European +honey almost as much as the bee does in appearance, being more +aromatic than the latter: it is also less crystalline. As the +celebrated "Narbonne honey" derives its excellence from the bees +feeding on the wild thyme of the south of France, so does the +Australian honey derive its superior flavour from the aromatic +flowers and shrubs on which the Wirotheree feeds, and which makes it +preferred by many to the European. + +<h4>THE APPLE-GUM (<i>Angophora?</i>)</h4> + +<p>I have been at some pains to discover to what species this tree +belongs, but further than that it is one of the almost universal +family of the Eucalypti, have not been able to identify it. As +mentioned in the text, it was found very valuable for forging +purposes by the Brothers, who were able to bring their horse-shoes +almost to a white heat by using it. It is like box in appearance, +and very hard. + +<h4>TERRY'S BREECH-LOADERS.</h4> + +<p>This formidable weapon can hardly receive too high a commendation, +and to its telling efficiency is probably attributable the absence of +any casualty to the party in their many encounters with the savages. +Not only for its long range is it valuable, but for its superior +certainty in damp or wet weather, its charge remaining uninjured +after days and weeks of interval, and even after immersion in water, +making it available when an ordinary piece would be useless. The +effect of the conical bullet too is much more sure and complete, +which, when arms <i>must</i> be resorted to, is of great importance. + +<h4>THE MARAMIE.</h4> + +<p>This shell-fish is to be found in almost all the Australian rivers +and lagoons. It is in size and appearance very much like the little +cray-fish or "Ecrevisses" which usually garnish the "Vol-au-vent" of +Parisian cookery, and of very delicate flavor. + +<h4>SPINIGEX, Spear Grass, Needle Grass, or "Saucy Jack" (<i>Triodia Irritans.</i>)</h4> + +<p>This grass, so well known to all Australian travellers, is a certain +indication of a sandy sterile country. The spinifex found in the +Mally scrubs of the south attains a great size, generally assuming +the appearance of a large tuft or bush from one to two feet in +diameter, and twelve to eighteen inches high. When old, its sharp +points, like those of so many immense darning needles set on end at +different angles, are especially annoying to horses, who never touch +it as food, except when forced by starvation. In Northern Queensland +the present species is found abundantly from Peak Downs to Cape York. + +<h4>FIVE CORNERS (<i>Stypelia?</i>)</h4> + +<p>This fruit is well known and very common in the neighbourhood of +Sydney, and was found in the scrubby region about the Richardson +Range, which, as before mentioned, is of similar character to that +description of country. It does not, so far as I am aware, exist in +any other part of Queensland. + +<h4>THE NATIVE PLUM (<i>Owenia.</i>)</h4> + +<p>This tree, of which there are several species, (<i>Owenia Cerasifera</i> +and <i>Owenia Vanessa</i> being most common in Queensland), is found along +the whole of the east coast, as far south as the Burnett, and is one +of the handsomest of Australian forest trees. Its purple fruit has a +pleasant acid flavor, and is probably a good anti-scorbutic. It is +best eaten after having been buried in the ground for a few days, as +is the custom of the natives. The stone is peculiar, having much the +shape of a fluted pudding basin. The timber is handsomely grained +and is of durable quality. + +<p>On the subjects of the fruits, edible plants, and roots of +Queensland, Mr. Anthelme Thozet, of Rockhampton, whose name is well +and deservedly known to Botanists, has been at great pains to prepare +for the approaching Exhibition at Paris, a classified table of all +that are known as consumed by the natives raw and prepared, and to +his enthusiastic attention to the subject, we are indebted for the +possession of a large and important list, a knowledge of which would +enable travellers in the wilds of the colony to support themselves +from their natural productions alone, in cases where their provision +was exhausted. + +<h4>THE CALAMUS (<i>Calamus Australis.</i>)</h4> + +<p>This plant belongs to a genuis of palms, the different species of +which yield the rattan canes of commerce. Its form in the scrubs of +the Cape York Peninsula is long and creeping, forming a net work of +vines very formidable to progress. + +<h4>THE PITCHER PLANT (<i>Nepenthes Kennedyana.</i>)</h4> + +<p>This interesting plant was first noticed to the north of the Batavia +River, and is common to the swamps of the peninsula. It has been +described and named in honor of the unfortunate Kennedy, who first +noticed it. + +<h4>THE FERGUSON OR STAATEN.</h4> + +<p>This stream, whose arid banks Mr. Jardine was forced to trace to the +sea, in consequence of the sterility and waterless character of the +levels to the northward, is neverthless of some importance. Like +most of the northern rivers, it is a torrent stream, whose bed is +insufficient to carry off its waters during the flooded season, +causing the formation of lagoons, back-waters, and ana-branches, and +yet in the dry months, containing only a thread of water trickling +along a waste of sand, sometimes three or four hundred yards wide, +and at intervals loosing itself and running under the surface. +Should the northern branch which was seen to join amongst the +ana-branches near its debouchure prove to be the larger stream, that +followed by the party might still retain the name of "the Ferguson," +given to it by the Brothers, in honor of the governor of Queensland. +It receives Cockburn Creek, one of importance, which, just before +joining it, receives the waters of another large creek from the +south, which was supposed to be Byerley Creek, but this as mentioned +in the text, is unlikely, for when the Brothers were in quest of the +Lynd (which they never reached at all) they left Byerley Creek +trending to the south, at a point considerably to the west of the +longitude of that influence. It is more probable, therefore, that +Byerley Creek is a tributary of either the Einasleih or Gilbert, or +that it is an independant stream altogether, running into the Gulf +between the Gilbert and Staaten rivers. + +<p>It appears unlikely also that any practicable route for stock will be +discovered between the coast which Mr. Jardine skirted, and the heads +of the rivers Staaten, Lynd, Mitchell, and Batavia. The interval +between Kennedy's track and that of the Brothers has yet to be +explored, when the best line will probably be found nearer to the +former than the latter, for the country between the Staaten and +Mitchell near their sources has been proven to be a barren and +waterless waste, the good country only commencing beyond the +Mitchell, and forming the valley of the Archer, but terminating about +the Coen. + +<h4>FATE OF THE MULE.</h4> + +<p>The fate of the unfortunate mule, whose loss was amongst the most +severely felt of the journey, has come to light in rather an +interesting manner. In a late letter from Cape York, Mr. Frank +Jardine mentions that some natives had visited the Settlement at +Somerset, amongst whom were seen some of the articles carried in the +mule's pack bags. On questioning them he found that they were +familiar with all the incidents of the journey, many of which they +described minutely. The mule had been found dead, having shared the +fate of Lucifer and Deceiver, and perished from thirst, and his packs +of course ransacked. They had watched the formation of the Cache, +when the party abandoned the heaviest articles of the equipment, and +in like manner ransacked it. These blacks must have travelled nearly +500 miles, for the Staaten is nearly 450 miles in a straight line +from Somerset, and were probably amongst those who dogged the steps +of the party so perseveringly to within 100 miles of Cape York, +frequently attacking it as described. From their accounts it appears +that the expedition owed much of its safety to their horses, of which +the blacks stood in great dread. They described minutely the +disasters of the poison camp on the Batavia, particularising the fact +of Frank Jardine having shot one of the poisoned horses, his +favourite, with his revolver, their start on foot, and other things. + From this is would appear that they closely watched and hung on to +the steps of the party, though only occasionally daring to attack +them; and proves that but for the unceasing and untiring vigilence of +the Brothers, and their prompt action when attacked, the party would +in all probability have been destroyed piece meal. The utter +faithlessness, treachery, and savage nature of the northern natives +is shown by their having twice attempted to surprise the settlement +whilst Mr. Jardine, senior, was resident there, although they had +been treated with every kindness from the first. In these encounters +two of the marines were wounded, one of whom has since died from the +effects, whilst others had narrow escapes, John Jardine, junr. having +had a four-pronged spear whistle within two inches of his neck. +Since then they have not ceased to molest the cattle, and in an +encounter they wounded Mr. Scrutton. They have utilized their +intercourse with the whites so far as to improve the quality of their +spears by tipping them with iron, a piece of fencing wire, 18 inches +long, having been found on one taken from them on a late occasion. +In his last letter Frank Jardine mentions an encounter with a +"friendly" native detected in the act of spearing cattle, in which he +had a narrow escape of losing his life, and states that, despite +their professions of friendship, they are always on the watch for +mischief. It is evident therefore, that no terms can safely be held +with a race who know no law but their own cowardly impulse of evil, +and that an active and watchful force of bushmen well acquainted with +savage warfare is necessary to secure the safety of the young +settlement. For a description of the habits and the character of the +Australian and Papuan races, which people the Peninsula and the +adjacent islands of Torres Straits, the reader is referred to the +interesting narrative of the voyage of the Rattlesnake, by Mr. John +McGillivray, in which the subject is ably and exhaustively treated, +and which leaves but little to add by succeeding writers. + +<h4>THE MIDAMO.</h4> + +<p>The "villanous compound, a mixture of mangrove roots and berries," +which was presented to the explorers by the friendly natives as a +peace-offering on first meeting them near Somerset, was probably what +is described as the "Midamo" in Mr. Anthelme Thozets' valuable +pamphlet already alluded to above on "the roots, tubers, bulbs, and +fruits used as vegetable food by the aboriginals of Northern +Queensland." The midamo is made by baking the root of the common +mangrove (<i>Avicennia Tomentosa</i>), which is called Egaie by the tribes +of Cleveland Bay, and Tagon-Tagon by those of Rockhampton. Its +preparation is described at page 13. + +<hr width="50%" align="center"> + +<h4>SOMERSET.</h4> + +<p>A description of the settlement at Port Albany, Cape York, at the +time of the arrival of the Brothers has been carefully drawn up in +the shape of a report to the Colonial Secretary of Queenslandby Mr. +Jardine. It is so full and interesting that I cannot do better than +publish it in extenso. It first appeared in the <i>Queensland Daily +Guardian</i> of 24th June, 1865. A letter from Mr. Jardine to Sir +George Bowen, reporting the arrival of the sons, and epitomising the +events of the journey, together with the report of Dr. Haran, R.N., +Surgeon in charge of the detachment of Royal Marines, on the climate +of Cape York, showing its great salubrity, are also added: -- + +<blockquote><p>PORT ALBANY. + +<p>Somerset, March 1st, 1865. + +<p>Sir, -- My former reports to you having been, to a certain extent, +necessarily taken up with matters of detail in reference to the +formation of the new settlement of Somerset, and that object being +now in such a state of completion as to enable me to say that it is +fairly established, so far as the comfort and safety of the present +residents are concerned, I now do myself the honor to lay before you +the result of such general observations as I have been able to make +on what may be termed general matters of interest. + +<p>2. The portion of the country to which my observations will +particularly apply is that which, I think, may correctly be termed +the "York Peninsula proper," and comprises the land lying to the +northward of a line drawn from the estuary of the Kennedy River, at +the head of Newcastle Bay, to the opposite or north-west coast. The +general course of the Kennedy River runs in this line, and from the +head of the tideway to the north-west coast the breadth of land does +not exceed six miles. The mouth of the river falling into the sea a +short distance to the southward of Barn Island will be nearly met by +the western extremity of this line. + +<p>3. The land on the neck thus formed presents singular features. +There is no defined or visible water shed; a succession of low +irregular ridges, divided by swampy flats, extends from coast to +coast, and the sources of the streams running into either overlap in +a most puzzling manner. The large ant-hills which are spread over +the whole of this country may be taken as sure indicators of the +nature of the soils; on the ridges a reddish sandy loam, intermixed +with iron-stone gravel, prevails; on the flats a thin layer of +decomposed vegetable matter overlays a white sand, bearing +<i>Melaleuca</i> and <i>Pandanus</i>, with a heavy undergrowth of a plant much +resembling tall heath. Nearly every flat has its stream of clear +water; the elegant "pitcher" plant grows abundantly on the margins. +The timber is poor and stunted, chiefly bloodwood and 'grevillea'; +and the grass is coarse and wiry. + +<p>4. Leaving this neck of barren and uninteresting country, the land +to the northward rises, and a distinct division or spine is formed, +ending in Cape York. From it, on either side, spurs run down to the +coast, frequently ending in abrupt precipices overhanging the sea; in +other places gradually declining to the narrow belt of flat land +which occasionally borders the shore. The formation is, I may say, +entirely sandstone, overlaid in many places by a layer of lava-like +ironstone. Porphyry occurs occasionally in large masses, split and +standing erect in large columns, at a distance resembling basalt. +The sandstone is of the coarsest quality, almost a conglomerate, and +is soft and friable; exposure to the air might probably harden it if +quarried, when it would be available for rough building. The ridges, +with very few exceptions, are topped with large blocks of ferruginous +sandstone, irregularly cast about, and are covered with a thick +scrub, laced and woven together with a variety of vines and climbers, +while the small valleys intervening bear a strong growth of tall +grass, through which numerous creeping plants twine in all +directions, some of them bearing beautiful flowers. Among them I may +particularise two species of 'Ipomea', which I believe to be +undescribed, and a vine-like plant, bearing clusters of fruit much +resembling in appearance black Hambro Grapes, wholesome and pleasant +to the taste. The scrubs are formed of an immense variety of trees +and shrubs, far too numerous for me toname, were I able to do so. +Some of them have fine foliage, and bear handsome flowers and +agreeably tasted fruit, and would form most ornamental additions to +our southern gardens and pleasure grounds. Several species of the +numerous climbing plants produce a fine and strong fibre, from which +the natives make their fishing lines. Some fine varieties of palm +are found on the moister lands near the creeks, two especially +elegant, a <i>Seaforthia</i> and a <i>Caryota</i>. A wild banana, with small +but good fruit, is also found in such localities. On the open +grounds the bloodwood, Moreton Bay ash, and a strong growing acacia +are the principal trees. Timber for building is scarce, and of very +indifferent quality. The iron-bark and pine are unknown here. + +<p>5. The soil on these grounds is a reddish loam, more or less sandy, +and thinly covered with a coarse ironstone gravel. Much of the +ironstone has a strong magnetic property -- so much so as to suspend +a needle; and it was found a great inconvenience by Mr. Surveyor +Wilson, from its action on the instruments. As the land descends, +the soil becomes more sandy. Near the creek patches with a +considerable mixture of vegetable loam are found, which would be +suitable for the growth of vegetables, bananas, etc. The grass is +generally long and coarse, and soon after the rainy season ceases +becomes, under the influence of the strong south-east winds, withered +and dry. Horses and cattle keep their condition fairly, but sheep do +not thrive; the country is quite unsuited to them. Goats may be kept +with advantage; and pigs find an abundant supply of food in the +scrubs and swamps. + +<p>6. In the Zoology of the district, the careful researches of Mr. +M'Gillivray -- the naturalist attached to H.M.'s surveying ship +Rattlesnake -- have left little room for the discovery of many +positive novelties. I have, however, been able to note many +interesting facts in the economy and habits of the birds, especially +such as relate to their migration. Several of the species found here +are season visitors of New South Wales, and it is interesting to +compare the times of their arrival and departure in this place with +those in the southern colony. + +<p>7. The animals afford small variety. The dingo, or native dog, four +species of the smaller kangaroos, and two other marsupials are found. +One, an elegant little squirrel-like opossum, striped lengthways with +black and white, I believe to be new. + +<p>8. The birds are more plentiful. My collection comprises more than +one hundred species of land birds, many of them remarkable for beauty +of plumage, and peculiarity of form, structure, and habit. Among +them the most remarkable are the great black macaw, (<i>Microglossus +Atterrimus</i>) the magnificent rifle bird, (<i>Ptiloris Magnifica</i>) and +the rare and beautiful wood kingfisher, (<i>Tan Ts-ptera Sylvia</i>). The +latter first made its appearance here on the 30th of November last. +On the afternoon and night of the 28th and the 29th of that month +there was a heavy storm of rain, with wind from the north-east, and +the next morning the bush along the shore was ringing with the cries +of the new arrivals. To my constant enquiries of the blacks for this +bird, I was always told by them that when the wind and rain came from +the north-west the birds would come, and their prediction was +verified to the letter. They also say the birds come from "Dowdui" +(New Guinea). I think this probable, as several of the birds +described by the French naturalist, M. Lesson, as found by him in New +Guinea have also appeared here for the breeding season. The +<i>Megapodius Tumulus</i> is also worthy of mention, on account of the +surprising structure of its nest. The mound resembles, and is +composed of the same materials as that of the brush turkey +(<i>Talegulla</i>), but is very much larger in size. Some that I have +measured are upwards of thirty (30) feet in diameter at the base, and +rise at the natural angle to a height of fifteen (15) feet or more. +It is wonderful how birds so comparitively diminutive can accumulate +so large a pile. These birds live in pairs, and several pairs use +the same mound. The eggs are deposited at a depth of from one to +three feet; the heat at that depth is very great, more than the hand +can bear for any length of time. I cannot say whether the young, +when released from the mounds, are tended by the parents; they, +however, return and roost in the mounds at night. The flesh of the +<i>Megapodius</i> is dark and flavorless, being a mass of hard muscle and +sinew. birds, which may be called game, are not numerous. The brush +turkey (<i>Talegalla</i>), the <i>Megapodius</i>, several species of pigeon, +with a few ducks and quail, comprise the whole. + +<p>9. -- Fish are in abundance, and in great varieties; some of them of +strange form and singular brilliancy of coloring. The grey mullet, +the bream -- a fish much resembling in general appearance the English +pike -- and several others, are excellent eating. + +<p>10. -- Three species of turtle are plentiful during the season, that +is, the period when they approach the shores to deposit their eggs, +the green, the hawksbill, and another species, which grow to a much +larger size than either of the above. The natives take large numbers +of the former; indeed, from the month of November till February +turtle forms their principal food. The green turtle are taken in the +water by the blacks, who display great address in "turning" them; +they are approached when asleep on the surface; the black slips +gently from his canoe and disappears under water, and rising beneath +the animal, by a sudden effort turns it on its back, and by a strong +wrench to the fore flipper disables it from swimming. The fisherman +is assisted by his companions in the canoe, and a line is secured to +the turtle. This is hazardous sport, and deep wounds are frequently +inflicted by the sharp edges of the shells, which in the female +turtle are very sharp. A singular mode of taking the hawksbill +turtle is followed by the natives here. This custom, though said to +be known so long back as the time of the discovery of America by +Columbus, is so strangely interesting that I will give a short +account of it, as I have seen it practised. A species of sucking +fish (<i>Remora</i>) is used. On the occasion to which I allude two of +these were caught by the blacks in the small pools in a coral reef, +care being taken 'not to injure them'. They were laid in the bottom +of the canoe, and covered over with wet sea weed -- a strong fishing +line having been previously fastened to the tail of each. Four men +went in the canoe; one steering with a paddle in the stern, one +paddling on either side, and one in the fore-part looking out for the +turtle and attending to the fishing lines, while I sat on a sort of +stage fixed midship supported by the outrigger poles. The day was +very calm and warm, and the canoe was allowed to drift with the +current, which runs very strong on these shores. a small turtle was +seen, and the sucking fish was put into the water. At first it swam +lazily about, apparently recovering the strength which it had lost by +removal from its native element; but presently it swam slowly in the +direction of the turtle till out of sight; in a very short time the +line was rapidly carried out, there was a jerk, and the turtle was +fast. The line was handled gently for two or three minutes, the +steersman causing the canoe to follow the course of the turtle with +great dexterity. It was soon exhausted and hauled up to the canoe. +It was a small turtle, weighing a little under forty pounds (40 +lbs.), but the sucking fish adhered so tenaciously to it as to raise +it from the ground when held up by the tail, and this some time after +being taken out of the water. A strong breeze coming on, the canoe +had to seek the shore without any more sport. I have seen turtle +weighing more than one hundred (100) pounds, which had been taken in +the manner described. Though large numbers of the hawksbill turtles +are taken by the Cape York natives, it is very difficult to procure +the shell from them; they are either too lazy to save it, or if they +do so, it is bartered to the Islanders of Torres' Straits, who use it +for making masks and other ornaments. + +<p>11. Although there is a considerable variety of reptiles, snakes do +not appear to be very numerous. The common brown snake and +death-adder are found; carpet snakes (a kind of 'boa'), appear to be +the most common, and grow to a large size. They have been very +troublesome by killing our poultry at night. They seem to be +bloodthirsty creatures, frequently killing much larger animals than +they can possibly swallow, and are not satisfied with one victim at a +time. One which was killed in my fowl-house had three half grown +chickens compressed in its folds and held one in its jaws. A short +time since I was roused in the middle of the night by the piteous +cries of a young kangaroo dog, and on running out found it rolling on +the ground in the coils of a large carpet snake. The dog was +severely bitten in the loin, but in the morning was quite well, +proving that the bite of this reptile is innocuous. This snake +measured nearly twelve feet in length. + +<p>12. Crocodiles are found in numbers in the Kennedy River and a +lagoon, which has communication with its estuary. They are also seen +occasionally in the bays in Albany Passage. + +<p>13. Of the aborigines of Cape York I can say little more than has +already been so often repeated in descriptions of the natives of +other parts of the Australian continent. The only distinction that I +can perceive, is that they appear to be in a lower state of +degradation, mentally and physically, than any of the Australian +aboriginal tribes which I have seen. Tall well-made men are +occasionally seen; but these almost invariably show decided traces of +a Papuan or new Guinea origin, being easly distinguished by the +"thrum" like appearance of the hair, which is of a somewhat reddish +tinge, occasioned no doubt by constant exposure to the sun and +weather. The color of their skin is also much lighter, in some +individuals approaching almost to a copper color. The true +Australian aborigines are perfectly black, with generally woolly +heads of hair; I have however, observed some with straight hair and +features prominent, and of a strong Jewish cast. The body is marked +on each shoulder with a shield-like device, and on each breast is +generally a mark in shape of a heart, very neatly executed. The +large cicatrices which appear on the bodies of the tribes of Southern +Australia are not used here; nor is a front tooth taken out at the +age of puberty. The <i>septum</i> of the nose is pierced, and the +crescent-shaped tooth, of the dugong is worn in it on state +occasions; large holes are also made in the ears, and a piece of wood +as large as a bottle cork, and whitened with pipe clay, is inserted +in them. A practise of cutting the hair off very close is followed +by both sexes, seemingly once a year, and wigs are made of the hair. +These are decorated with feathers, and worn at the <i>corrobories</i> or +gatherings. The women hold, if possible, a more degraded position +than that generally assigned to them among the Australian aborigines. +They are indeed wretched creatures. The only covering worn by them +is a narrow belt of twisted grass, with a fringe of strips of palm +leaves in front. the men go entirley naked. The aborigines make no +huts. In the wet weather a rude screen of leafy boughs, with palm +leaves -- if any happen to grow in the neighbourhood -- is set up as +a shelter. + +<p>14. The arms used by these natives are few and simple. Four sorts +of spears, made from the suckers of a very light wood tree with large +pith, headed with hard wood and generally topped with bone so as to +form a point or barb, are the most common. The end of the tail of a +species of ray fish is sometimes used as a point. It is serrated and +brittle, and on entering any object breaks short off. It is said to +be poisonous, but I do not believe such to be the case, as one of the +marines stationed here was speared in the shoulder with one of these +spears, and no poisonous effect was produced. The point which broke +short off, however, remained in the wound, and could not be extracted +for many months. The spear most commonly in use, and the most +effective, has merely a head of very hard wood, from a species of +acacia, scraped to a very fine sharp point. These are the only +spears which can be thrown with any precision to a distance -- they +are sent with considerable force. I extracted two from the thigh of +one of my horses; the animal had another in the shoulder, which had +entered to a depth of five and a half inches. All spears are thrown +with the 'wommera', or throwing stick. A rudely made stone tomahawk +is in use among the Cape York natives, but it is now nearly +surperseded by iron axes obtained from the Europeans. I have seen no +other weapons among them; the boomerang and nulla-nulla (or club) are +not known. + +<p>15. The greatest ingenuity which the natives display is in the +construction and balancing of their canoes. These are formed from +the trunk of the cotton tree (<i>Cochlospermum</i>) hollowed out. The +wood is soft and spongy, and becomes very light when dry. The canoes +are sometimes more than fifty feet in length, and are each capable of +containing twelve or fifteen natives. The hull is balanced and +steadied in the water by two outrigger poles, laid athwart, having a +float of light wood fastened across them at each end -- so that it is +impossible for them to upset. A stage is formed on the canoe where +the outriggers cross, on which is carried the fishing gear, and, +invariably, also fire. The canoes are propelled by short paddles, or +a sail of palm-leaf matting when the wind is fair. Considerable +nicety is also shown in the making of fishing lines and hooks. The +former are made from the fibres of a species of climber very neatly +twisted. The fish-hooks are made of tortoise-shell, or nails +procured from wreck timber. They are without barbs, and our +fish-hooks are eagerly sought for in place of them. + +<p>16. The food of the natives consists chiefly of fish, and, in the +season, turtle, with roots and fruits. These latter and shell-fish +it is the business of the females to collect and prepare. They may, +however, be truly said to be omnivorous, for nothing comes amiss to +them, and the quantity they can consume is almost incredible. I have +seen them luxuriating on the half putrid liver of a large shark cast +up on the beach, the little black children scooping up the filthy +oil, and discussing it with apparently the greatest gusto. + +<p>17. These remarks apply to the four tribes which inhabit the +territory within the limits mentioned at the commencement of this +report -- viz., the peninsula to the northward of the Kennedy River. +These four tribes are not distinguishable from each other in any +distinct peculiarity that I can perceive. They keep each to their +own territory, except on the occasion of a grand "corroborie," when +the whole assemble. They are at present on terms of peace nominally. +Should a safe opportunity of cutting off a straggler offer, I have no +doubt it would be taken advantage of. They are cowardly and +treacherous in the extreme. The "Gudang" tribe, claiming the land +from Cape York to Fly Point, at the entrance of Albany Pass, is small +in numbers, having, I fancy, been seriously thinned by their +neighbours, the "Kororegas," from the Prince of Wales' Island, in +Torres' Straits, who frequently come down upon them. Paida, Mr. +M'Gillivray's <i>kotaiga</i> (friend), was not long since killed by them. +The "Goomkoding" tribe, who live on the north-western shore, I have +seen little of. They and the "Gudang" seem to hold most +communication with the islanders of Torres' Straits, the +intermixture of the races being evident. "Kororega" words are used +by both these tribes, and the bow and arrow are sometimes seen among +them, having been procured from the island. The "Yadaigan" tribe +inhabit the south side of Newcastle Bay and the Kennedy River; the +"Undooyamo," the north side. These two tribes are more numerous than +the two first-mentioned, and appear to be of a more independant race +than the others, and gave us much trouble on our first settlement, by +continual thefts and otherwise. The tract of country which they +inhabit is nearly covered with the densest scrub and with swamp, into +which they took refuge with their booty as soon as any depredation +was committed, so as to render it next to impossible for us to pursue +them. These four tribes together do not number in all more than 250 +to 300 men. + +<p>18. All these people are much addicted to smoking. Tobacco is used +by them in preference when it can be got. Before its introduction, +or when it was not procurable from Europeans, the leaves of a large +spreading tree, a species of 'Eugenia', was, and is still used. +These leaves must possess some strong deleterious or narcotic +property. I was for some time puzzled to assign a cause for so many +of the natives being scarred by burns. Nearly every one shows some +marks of burning, and some of them are crippled and disfigured by +fire in a frightful manner. They smoke to such excess as to become +quite insensible, and in that state they fall into their camp-fires, +and receive the injuries mentioned. The pipe used is a singular +instrument for the purpose. It is a hollow bamboo about 2 1/2 feet +long, and as thick as a quart bottle; one of the smoking party fills +this in turn with smoke from a funnel-shaped bowl, in which the +tobacco is placed by blowing it through a hole at one end of the +tube. When filled it is handed to some one who inhales and swallows +as much of the smoke as he can, passing the pipe on to his neighbour. +I have seen a smoker so much affected by one dose as to lie helpless +for some minutes afterwards. + +<p>19. Thus much for the general appearance and habits of the Cape +York natives. A very accurate vocabulary of their language has been +published by Mr. M'Gillivary in his account of the voyage of H.M.S. +Rattlesnake. Of their superstitions I am unable to speak with +certainty. That they have no belief in the existence of a Supreme +Being is, I think, positive. They are, like all the Australian +tribes, averse to travelling about at night if dark; this, I believe, +chiefly arises from the inconvenience and difficulty of moving about +at such times, and not from any superstitious fear. They travel when +there is moonlight. They are true observers of the weather, and +before the approach of a change move their camps so as to obtain a +sheltered position. They do not seem to give the slightest thought +to cause or effect, and would, I believe eat and pass away their time +in a sort of trance-like apathy. Nothing appears to create surprise +in them, and nothing but hunger, or the sense of immediate danger, +arouses them from their listlessness. + +<p>20. I am aware of the great interest taken by his Excellency the +Governor and all the members of the Government of Queensland in the +promotion of missionary enterprise. I much fear, however, that the +mainland here will be found but a barren field for missionary labors. +One great obstacle to successful work is the unsettled nature of the +people. No inducement can keep them long in one place. Certainly a +missionary station might be formed on one of the neighbouring islands +-- Albany or Mount Adolphus Island, for instance, where some of the +young natives might be kept in training, according to the system used +by Bishops Selwyn and Patterson for the instruction of the +Melanesians. + +<p>21. With the Kororegas or Prince of Wales Islanders, who, from +constant communication with the islands to the northward, have +acquired a higher degree of intelligence than the pure Australians, I +believe a successful experiment could be made. Missionary enterprise +beyond the protection and influence of this new settlement at +Somerset would, of course, at present be attended with considerable +risk. + +<p>22. To the Banks and Mulgrave Islanders in Torres' Straits, a +similar remark will apply. Those people, however, seem to be of a +more savage nature, although intelligent, and giving considerable +attention to the cultivation of yams, bananas, etc. Both the good +and bad features in their characters may, I believe, in a great +measure be attributed to the strong influence exercised among them by +a white man, called by the natives "Wini," who has been living there +for many years. This man, who is supposed to be an escaped convict +from one of the former penal settlements in Australia, no doubt +considers it politic to keep Europeans from visiting the island where +he resides, "Badu". The natives of Cape York hold him and the Banks +Islanders generally in the greatest dread, giving me to understand +that all strangers going to these islands are killed, and their heads +cut off. The latter appears to be the custom of these and the +neighbouring islands towards their slain enemies. + +<p>23. The natives of the islands more to the northward and eastward +are said to be of milder dispositions, especially the Darnley +Islanders -- of whom Captain Edwards, of Sydney, who had a +"Bech-de-mer" fishing establishment there during the last year, +speaks in high terms as being of friendly dispositions and displaying +very considerable intelligence, living in comfortable huts and +cultivating yams, bananas, coconuts, etc., in considerable +quantities. Among these islanders I should think missionaries might +establish themselves without great difficulty, and with a +satisfactory result. + +<p>24. I think that the simple fact of a settlement of Europeans being +established at Cape York will very much tend to curb the savage +natures of the natives, not only of the mainland, but also of the +islands, and any unfortunates who may be cast among them from +shipwrecked vessels will, at all events, have their lives spared; and +I believe that, should such an event take place, I should soon hear +of it from the natives here. The communication between the islanders +and the natives of the mainland is frequent, and the rapid manner in +which news is carried from tribe to tribe to great distances is +astonishing. I was informed of the approach of H.M.S. Salamander on +her last visit two days before her arrival here. Intelligence is +conveyed by means of fires made to throw smoke up in different forms, +and by messengers who perform long and rapid journeys. + +<p>25. I should like much to send one or two of the Cape York natives +to Brisbane to remain there a short time. I believe that the reports +which they would bring back to their tribe of the wonders seen among +the white men would tend more than any other means to promote +friendly feelings towards us, and to fit their minds to receive +favourable impressions. + +<p>26. From what I have previously said of the soil here, it will be +seen that no large portion of it is suited for agriculture. Even +were the land good, the peculiar climate, which may be considered dry +for eight months in the year, would not permit satisfactory +cultivation to any large extent. During the rainy months, from +December to April, vegetables suitable to the temperature may be +grown in abundance. + +<p>27. Of the agreeableness and salubrity of the climate of Somerset, I +can not speak too favorably. The wet season commenced here last year +(1864) with the month of December, and continued till the latter part +of March. During that time the rain was intermittent, a day or two +of heavy wet being succeeded by fine weather. The winds from the +north west were light, and falling away to calm in the evening and +night. During this season the highest range of my thermometer was 98 +degrees in the shade; but it very rarely exceeds 90 degrees, as may +be seen from Dr. Haran's meteorological sheets. During the calms +immediately succeeding wet the heat was disagreeable, and mosquitoes +appeared, but not numerously. The nights were invariably cool. The +weather for the remaining seasons of the year may be termed +enjoyable. A fresh bracing breeze from the south east blows almost +continually, the thermometer averaging during the day from 80 to 85 +degrees. This temperature, with the cool nights, (sufficiently so to +render a blanket welcome) and delightful sea bathing, prevent any of +the lassitude or enervating influence so common to tropical climates +elsewhere from being felt at Somerset. + +<p>28. During the time of my residence here no serious indisposition +has occurred among the European residents. Occasional slight attacks +of illness generally traceable to some cause, has taken place, but as +far as can be judged there is no 'local malady'. There has been no +symptom of fever or ague, which it was apprehended would be prevalent +during the rainy season, as in other hot countries. Dr. Haran, R.N., +(the naval surgeon in charge) reports very favorably of the salubrity +of the climate. I have every reason to believe with Dr. Haran, that +at no very distant period, when steam communication through Torres +Straits shall have been establish, Somerset will be eagerly sought by +invalids from the East as an excellent and accessible sanatorium. + +<p>29. At all events, there can be no doubt but that the new settlement +will fulfil admirably the objects for which it was founded, 'i.e.', a +port of call and harbor of refuge for trade in the dangerous +navigation of Torres Straits, and a coal depot for steamers. + +<p>30. I almost fear that in the foregoing remarks it may be considered +that on some subjects I have entered too much into details, while on +others my notices have been too slight. I have endeavored, as much +as possible, to confine myself to subjects of interest, and you may +rely on my statements as the result of personal observation. Should +there be any particular point on which the Government may require +more specific information, I shall be most happy, if it be in my +power, to afford it. + +<p>I have the honor to be, Sir,<br> +Your most obedient servant,<br> +JOHN JARDINE, P.M.</blockquote> + +<hr width="50%" align="center"> + +<h4>PORT ALBANY.</h4> + +<h5>OVERLAND JOURNEY OF THE MESSRS. JARDINE TO THE PORT ALBANY SETTLEMENT.</h5> + +<blockquote><p>Somerset, May 1, 1865. + +<p>Sir, -- Since the date of my last report the most important +intelligence which I have to communicate is the arrival of my sons, +Frank and Alexander Jardine, with their overland party, all safe and +well, after an extremely arduous and toilsome journey of five months, +almost entirely over country which for the greater part may be termed +barren, the distance travelled over being somewhat more than 900 +miles. + +<p>2. The party, consisting of my two sons and four other Europeans +(including Mr. Surveyor Richardson, attached to the expedition by the +Government of Queensland), with four aborigines of the Rockhampton +district, made their final start from Mr. J. G. McDonald's station, +Carpentaria Downs, in latitude 18 deg. 37 min 10 sec S., longitude +144 deg. 3 min 30 sec. E, (the farthest out-station on the supposed +Lynd River), on the 11th of October, 1864, and reached this place on +the 13th of March, ult. Rockhampton was the first point of +departure, my second son leaving it, with the horses and men, on the +16th of May, 1864, making the journey for them about 1800 miles. + +<p>3. It would appear from the journals kept that a great portion of +the country on the west coast of the York Peninsula, especially in +the locality of the Mitchell River, is at times (I presume +periodically) subject to inundation; the water, however, soon +disappears from the flat and sandy land, and for the greater portion +of the year, till the next rainy season, the country is destitute of +water, and in other respects little better than an absolute desert. + +<p>4. It is a subject of great regret to myself, and in which I am sure +you will share, that this long journey should be, so far as at +present appears, productive of so poor a result to the public in +developing new resources to the colony. However, a large and +valuable addition to geographical information has certainly been +gained; but at the same time few of the important discoveries in +lands suitable for pastoral or agricultural occupation, or in +minerals, etc., etc., and which might in so large a tract of country +have reasonably been expected, have been made. + +<p>5. My sons have experienced a severe disappointment to their hopes +and expectations in the nature of the country around, and within a +reasonable distance of this place, as well as a heavy loss in +prosecuting their undertaking. However at their ages, 23 and 21 +respectively, the spirit is very buoyant, and they are again quite +ready for another venture. Their journey, which, from the nature of +the country traversed, has been one of unusual difficulty and +hardship; and it is surprising to me that, hampered as they were with +a herd of 250 cattle, for which providing food and water in a barren +and unknown country is in itself no easy matter, they should have +come through so successfully. + +<p>6. Next to the general barrenness of the country, the difficulties +they had to encounter were -- first, the destruction of a quantity of +their supplies and gear, through the camp being carelessly permitted +to catch fire during their absence in pioneering the route. Next, +the determined hostility of the natives, who were almost continually +on their track, annoying them on every favorable opportunity; on one +occasion, the crossing of the "Mitchell," opposing them so +obstinately that a considerable number were shot before they would +give way. Then the loss of two-thirds of their horses (all the best) +from eating some poisonous plant, and which necessitated the last 300 +miles of the journey being travelled on foot; and last, the flooded +state of the country during the season of the rains. And I think it +is not too much for me to say, that nothing but a thorough knowledge +of their business, supported by determined energy, could have carried +them through what must be considered one of the most arduous tasks in +exploration on record. + +<p>7. I will not attempt in the small space of a letter to give you +more full particulars of the journey and its incidents. Mr. Surveyor +Richardson has, of course, his journal and maps of the route as +directed by the government, and from these, with the information +gained by my sons in their numerous "offsets" in search of the best +courses to follow, which will be placed at the disposal of the +Government, I believe a pretty accurate idea of the nature of the +country on the west coast of the York Peninsula may be gathered. + +<p>8. My sons have at present formed their station near Point Vallack, +on the north shore of Newcastle Bay, between two or three miles from +the settlement of Somerset. They are on good terms with the natives, +and their black servants fraternise with them, but are kept under +strict rule. The natives of Cape York from the first have shown a +friendly feeling towards them, having, on their first arrival, met +them about twenty miles from the settlement, and shown them the +nearest way to it, and they have since been very useful in carrying +timber to build huts, stockyards, etc., etc; and I believe that for +the future, if well treated, they will offer no annoyance to the +present settlers. The establishment of a cattle station in the +neighborhood is of great advantage to the settlement, serving as an +outpost to secure its safety, and in opening up the country, besides +affording a ready supply of fresh meat. Already my sons and their +blacks have cut good passages through the scrub to the settlement, +and also through the various belts of scrub dividing their station +from open grounds; so that now a large extent of country can be +<i>ridden</i> over without obstruction. + +<p>9. I have little else of importance to communicate. The affairs of +this settlement have gone on slowly but steadily. The several works +left unfinished are, under the charge of the acting foreman, Private +Bosworth, Royal Marines, (and of whom I can speak most highly for his +attention and work), completed, with the exception of the Custom +House, which is well advanced. + +<p>10. The natives are on good terms with us, and work for us in +various ways, being duly paid in food, tobacco, etc. + +<p>11. On the 23rd ultimo there was a slight shock of an earthquake +felt distinctly by myself and other persons here. It occurred in the +afternoon, about two o'clock, was accompanied by a rumbling sound, +but lasted little more than a minute. The health of the royal +Marines, and all other residents at the settlement, continues to be +very good, as will be seen from the report of the surgeon Dr. Haran, +R.N. I have the honor to be, Sir, + +<p>Your most obedient servant, + +<p>JOHN JARDINE. P.M. + +<p>To the Hon. the Colonial Secretary, Brisbane.</blockquote> + +<hr width="50%" align="center"> + +<h4>DR. HARAN'S REPORT.</h4> + +<blockquote><p>Somerset, May 22, 1865. + +<p>Sir, + +<p>It affords me much pleasure to have again to forward to your Excellency +a most favourable report of the climate of this settlement, and of the +uninterrupted good health of our small community, military and civil. +the dreaded summer season, with its calms, light winds and heavy rains, +has passed off without causing a single case of sickness, attributable +to noxious exhalations, which prevail at that season in most tropical +climates, but which, in my opinion, cannot exist here, owing to the +preventive causes enumerated in my letter of the 13th January last; +neither have we experienced that oppressiveness of the atmosphere which +its saturated condition at that season through the sun's direct +influence in favoring evaporation in the surrounding seas would lead one +to expect. Some slight oppressiveness was felt immediately before the +rains, but speedily disappeared on their occurrence. I can only account +for this valuable immunity by attributing it to some peculiarity of +climate, in all probability to the same causes which counteract the +evolution of noxious exhalations; for we did experience calms and very +light winds, and the hygrometer during the greater part of the time +indicated a very large amount of moisture in the atmosphere. + +<p>2. The meteorological sheets forwarded by this opportunity, contain full +particulars regarding the winds, temperature, etc., for the last four +months, and having been prepared from a series of observations, +conducted with care and regularly registered, they cannot fail, amongst +other important objects bearing on general climatology, to afford +convincing proof that, as a climate, even during the summer season, that +of Somerset, although in close proximity to the equator, possesses many +advantages not attainable in higher latitudes, and is, in my opinion, +from its mildness and equable character, especially suited for such as +may have the misfortune to be predisposed to, or suffering from, +pulmonary consumption. + +<p>3. The S.E. Trade ceased as a continuous wind in these seas on the 24th +December last. Calms, light winds, from all points of the compass, but +chiefly from the points between North and West to South, or against the +sun's course, and heavy rains, with electric phenomena of a +comparatively mild character, succeeded and persisted until the 11th of +March; when the sun's more direct influence having been diverted from +its course, and in a manner dissipated by the great heat and +evaporation, again resumed its ascendancy, and has continued since +without interruption. + +<p>4. On the 25th of January two of the Marines were seized with a severe +headache and other suspicious symptoms while working in the sun during a +calm; and I consider it my duty at once to recommend such alteration in +the working hours as would protect the men from sun-exposure during its +period of greatest heat. These alternations were adopted, and continued +in force until the 22nd of March, when the former working hours were +resumed, as no danger was apprehended from solar heat at any time of the +day during the prevalence of the S.E. Trade wind. + +<p>5. One well-marked case of scurvy became developed at the end of +January; and a few of several cases of cutaneous eruption under +treatment at the time closely resembled the symptoms characteristic of +that disease. the only anti-scorbutic dietary available, +viz.,--preserved meats and potatoes, compressed vegetables and lemon +juice, was issued at once, and continued on the salt-meat days for three +weeks, when all the indications of scurvy having disappeared, the usual +dietary was resumed. Since then the entire adult community have enjoyed +very good health. + +<p>I am, etc., + +<p>T. J. HARAN, Surgeon, R.N. + +<p>His Excellency, Governor Sir G.F. Bowen, G.C.M.G.</blockquote> + +<hr width="50%" align="center"> + +<pre> + +JARDINE'S JOURNAL - NOTES BY THE ETEXT-MAKER. + +Spelling errors and typos listed below are as shown in the paper text +and have been copied into the electronic text. + +FRONT MATTER + +The footnote in the INTRODUCTION does not have a referent in the text -- +there is no asterisk in the text. It is not clear whether the +'settlement' it refers to as having been abandoned is at Adam Bay or in +Western Australia. + +P ix - 'loosing' instead of 'losing' +P xi - re-placed + +CHAPTER 1 + +There are several words in this chapter which do not conform to today's +spelling, but which appear in the paper text as copied: +p 1 - faciliate +p 3 - agreable +p 5 - speers +p 5 - Gaala Creek - (should be Galaa Creek) +p 5 - discription +p 7 - amunition + +CHAPTER 2 + +P 9 - amunition +P 9 - earthern +P 9 - cheifly +P 10 - stoney +P 10 - occuring +P 11 - villanous +P 11 - vestage +P 16 - potatoe +P 16 - oppossum +P 17 - apparantly +P 18 - despatch +P 18 - amunition +p 19 - muscles - probably should be 'mussels' +p 19 - (about 18 miles.... - no closing bracket +p 23 - a cawbawn saucy - should probably be 'as cawbawn.... +p 23 - agressors +p 24 - succeded +p 24 - 'where' instead of 'were' +p 24 - 'frighened' instead of 'frightened' +p 26 - emeu +p 27 - double and single quotes on "Ferguson," don't match +p 27 - 'spenifex' instead of 'spinifex' + +CHAPTER 3 +P 30 - too (too days) +P 30 - dilirious +P 32 - carcase +p 32 - indispensible +P 32 - chissel +P 33 - 'these' should probably be 'they' +p 33 - pigmy +P 34 - agreably +P 34 - a-head +P 35 - degnified +P 36 - 'course' instead of 'coarse' +P 37 - steadilly +P 37 - abondoned +p 37 - wirey +P 38 - cheifly +p 38 - seives +P 38 - permenantly +p 39 - occuring +P 40 - frightended +P 40 - bythe (all one word) +P 40 - gratuitious + +CHAPTER 4 + +P 42 - they (no capital on beginning of sentence) +P 43 - horses (no possessive apostrophe) +P 43 - varities +P 44 - varities +p 44 - gulley +p 46 - sheild +p 48 - agressor +p 49 - peices +p 50 - bitcher plant -- (instead of pitcher plant?) +p 50 - pelluced +-------------------------------------------- + +CHAPTER 5 + +p 59 - 'course sandstone' -- should probably be 'coarse' +p 63 - a-head +p 64 - the latitude measurements seem to have reversed the signs for + minutes and seconds in measuring latitude. I have spelled out the words. +p 67 - 'meet' instead of 'meat' +p 68 - 'eat' instead of 'ate' +p 69 - horsmen +p 69 - admonitary +p 70 - Lichhardt +p 70 - retreiver +p 70 - mocassins + +CHAPTER 6 + +p 72 - distention +p 73 - 'gotting' should be 'getting'? +p 73 - exhiliration + +APPENDIX + +p 75 - weeps the stream -- should be 'sweeps the stream'? or was the + author being poetic? +p 77 - SPINIGEX -- should be 'Spinifex' +p 77 - genuis -- genus +p 77 - neverthless +p 77 - loosing - losing +p 78 - vigilence +p 79 - Thozets' - Thozet's +p 82 - easly - easily +p 82 - entirley +p 83 - surperseded + +</pre> + +<p> </p> + +<a name="pic3"></a> +<center> +<img alt="" src="jardine-map.jpg"> +<p><b>Map of the northern part of Queensland showing the route of Messrs Jardine from August 1864 to January 1865</b></p> +<p><b>[Click <a href="jardine-map-large.jpg" target="_blank">here </a>to display higher resolution map]</b></p> +</center> + +<p> </p> +<pre> + + + + + +End Project Gutenberg Etext The Overland Expedition of The Messrs. Jardine +by Messrs. Jardine [Byerley ed.] +</pre> +</body> +</html>
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