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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Killarney, by Mary Gorges
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Killarney
+
+Author: Mary Gorges
+
+Illustrator: Francis S. Walker
+
+Release Date: March 15, 2014 [EBook #45144]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK KILLARNEY ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by sp1nd, Sam W. and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's Note
+
+Some illustrations were uncaptioned in the original. The transcriber
+has used the captions from the list of illustrations for the
+convenience of the reader. These captions are in {braces}.
+
+
+
+
+    Beautiful Ireland
+
+
+        Killarney
+
+           By
+       Mary Gorges
+
+
+     [Illustration]
+
+
+         London
+  Adam & Charles Black
+      Soho Square W
+          1912
+
+
+
+
+  [Illustration: {THE UPPER LAKE.}]
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+  CHAPTER                                                       PAGE
+     I. THE GLAMOUR OF KILLARNEY                                   5
+
+    II. THE ROAD THROUGH THE GAP: ITS MEMORIES AND ITS RUINS      11
+
+   III. THE LAKES AND THE MOUNTAINS                               23
+
+    IV. MUCKROSS                                                  33
+
+     V. ROSS, INNISFALLEN, AND THE LOWER LAKE                     38
+
+    VI. THE KILLARNEY FOLK                                        49
+
+   VII. THE FAIRIES--AND FAREWELL!                                56
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+BY FRANCIS S. WALKER, R.H.A.
+
+
+   1. THE UPPER LAKE                          _Frontispiece_
+
+                                                 FACING PAGE
+   2. THE GAP OF DUNLOE ON A STORMY DAY                    9
+
+   3. THE HEAD OF THE GAP OF DUNLOE                       16
+
+   4. AT THE FOOT OF MANGERTON MOUNTAIN                   25
+
+   5. O'SULLIVAN'S PUNCHBOWL                              27
+
+   6. MUCKROSS LAKE AND GLENA MOUNTAIN                    30
+
+   7. MUCKROSS                                            32
+
+   8. THE ISLAND OF INNISFALLEN                           43
+
+   9. IN A TYPICAL COTTAGE                                46
+
+  10. MOUNTAIN HOMES OF THE KILLARNEY DISTRICT            49
+
+  11. CUTTING PEAT FROM THE BOG                           56
+
+  12. THE EAGLE'S NEST, KILLARNEY             _On the cover_
+
+
+
+
+KILLARNEY
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+THE GLAMOUR OF KILLARNEY
+
+
+Killarney--in Irish "the Church of the Sloes"--though but a small
+town, is, owing to its position, the centre from which the wondrously
+lovely scenery of the district may best be explored, a district which
+has been described as "the Mecca of every pilgrim in search of the
+sublime and beautiful in Nature--the mountain paradise of the West."
+Yet if the magical softness of shimmering wave and wooded isle, the
+glory of their colouring, the ineffable peace which broods over hill
+and vale, tempt the summer visitor to think that Paradise could not be
+fairer, there are dark glens, frowning mountains, and sombre passes,
+which but too vividly remind the beholder that on earth must the
+shadow always follow the sunshine, the minor note of sadness be heard,
+that even in this enchanted spot has the war-cry many a time been
+sounded, and men have wreaked their fierce passions and poured out
+their blood, and women, stricken to the heart, have suffered and died
+under these tender skies. The ruined castles tell their own story.
+
+To analyze the charm of Killarney Vale is impossible. It is the very
+region of romance, and one to which fairy legend and ghostly tale seem
+to fit themselves better than do the commonplaces of life. There would
+seem nothing strange were the O'Donoghue on his white charger seen to
+cleave the wave and emerge on its foam-flecked shore, coming we know
+not whence, going we know not where, but real as when he trod his
+native glens, a prince and a ruler among men. The unseen world seems
+very near to those who have fallen under the spell of fair Killarney.
+
+Part of this charm is doubtless due to the wonder of its beauty, the
+ceaseless contrasts it presents. I have seen a theory advanced of late
+years that, as is the land, so are the dwellers thereon; that the
+character of the soil determines that of its children; the rivers
+which they look upon, rapid and lawless, or strong and silent; the
+dark forest; the rich fields or the barren plains; the mysterious
+mountain or the gay valley, alike influence--nay, form--their
+individuality. There is a remarkable passage in the autobiography of a
+very remarkable man--Stillman (war correspondent to the _Times_ in its
+earlier days), in which he speaks of the effect which a few weeks'
+sojourn among the then primeval forests on the banks of the Hudson
+produced upon him. Over-wearied by brain work, he had shut himself
+away from sight or sound of civilization, from human companionship,
+depending on his gun for food, the waters of the spring for drink. He
+describes how gradually the artificialities of life seemed to slip
+from him, and he felt akin with grass and tree, with the skies above
+him, the clouds which swept over their surface, the glories of the sun
+by day, the moon and the stars by night. He seemed also conscious of a
+world of spirits, or at least beings not of flesh and blood, very
+close to him. Sometimes as he lay at rest upon the grass a radiant
+face looked down on him; once or twice a voice spoke. Above all, he
+felt confident he was being guided when external guidance was
+impossible, in black darkness, and when a mistake or false step meant
+death. He believed that senses we have lost revive, and that we grow
+cognisant of a world other than that we habitually live in, as, far
+away from the haunts of men, we let Nature speak to us once more.
+
+In many voices has Nature spoken to the children of Killarney, weaving
+something of the changeableness, the melancholy, the deep gloom, and
+the overflowing sunshine of their hills and vales into the very heart
+of the people, making them what they are for good or ill. To them has
+been given vision of the supernatural region as a refuge to the
+earth-bound spirit from the sordid cares of money-getting; and so has a
+world of dreamers, for all their outward gaiety and lightheartedness,
+been created in the kingdom of Kerry. Dreamers we call them, but, after
+all, may not Jean Paul Richter's words be prophetic, and the dreamers
+yet awaken from life's uneasy sleep to find its dreams alone were true.
+
+  [Illustration: THE GAP OF DUNLOE ON A STORMY DAY.
+    The wildness of the Gap is a great contrast to the lake scenery
+      to which it gives access.]
+
+The name of Killarney conjures up such thoughts. It owes its fame
+solely to its beauty and to the fascination which the character of
+that beauty exercises over the beholder. For it is never the same, and
+every change appeals to the imagination. Who that has seen it can
+forget the superb tinting of the foliage which clothes the mountain
+sides and transforms the isles into quivering kaleidoscopes of colour,
+flashing back the light as the waves of a sunlit sea. Then a shadow
+flits from the mountain tops, and the hues change as though under the
+spell of a magician hidden among those far-off caves, but only to a
+yet richer combination. Gorse and heather, arbutus and fern, show a
+softer radiance, less dazzling, but more sympathetic; silvery rills
+course down the declivities which surround the lakes, now visible
+through the trees and giant shrubs, now hidden, but always with a
+murmur of sound like distant notes of the fairy music which once, it
+is said, woke the echoes of Killarney. And for those who have the
+hearing ear it may do so still; with unbelievers the "good people"
+have no intercourse.
+
+There is a supernatural origin ascribed to almost everything in
+Killarney--to the lakes among the rest. These are formed and supplied
+by the numerous minor lakes in the surrounding mountains, and by
+several rivers which flow into them, having received on their way the
+waters of innumerable tributary streams, all finding an outlet by the
+rapid river Laune, which bears them to the Atlantic through the
+beautiful bay of Dingle.
+
+But in long-ago days there were no lakes at Killarney--so legend
+says--only an extensive and inhabited valley, fair and fertile. In
+this was a magic fountain, which supplied water clear as crystal,
+concerning which a tradition existed that whoever should displace the
+stone over the well-head would bring destruction to himself and to the
+valley. It was the reckless daring of a mortal which caused the
+fulfilment of this prediction. One of the great O'Donoghues, to prove
+the falsity of a tradition which he scorned, resolved in evil hour to
+have the stone removed to his castle. With fear and trembling his
+subjects, who dared not disobey him, awaited the result, all save his
+favourite jester, who fled to the summit of a neighbouring mountain.
+When morning came the jester looked down into the valley, and saw
+nothing but a great expanse of water. The valley was flooded in a
+single night, and its inhabitants drowned. It is believed, however,
+that they did not perish, but still exist under the lakes, enjoying a
+happier life than the earth one they left, feasting, music, and
+dancing filling the hours.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+THE ROAD THROUGH THE GAP: ITS MEMORIES AND ITS RUINS
+
+
+The principal lakes of Killarney are three in number--the Upper Lake
+is the smallest, but often adjudged the most beautiful; it is two
+miles and a half in length by half a mile in breadth, the Middle (Torc
+or Muckross) Lake is two miles long by one broad, while Lough Leane
+("the Lake of Learning") is five miles and a half long by two miles
+and a half in breadth.
+
+These lakes are connected by channels, narrow, though sufficiently
+wide to admit of the passing of a boat, so in a sense they may be
+considered as one, yet each lake possesses a character peculiar to
+itself and very distinctive.
+
+Killarney is easy of access in these days. In less than sixteen hours
+the tourist may reach it from London, via Holyhead, while Queenstown,
+Liverpool and the newer route by Rosslare afford facilities for
+visitors from every land. And once arrived they find all the comforts
+and luxuries of modern civilization in the first class hotels, which
+have sprung up to meet the ever increasing need of accommodation;
+hotels from some of which the visitor may view the beauty of lake and
+mountain, the lights and shadows, the glory of their colouring,
+without going further afield.
+
+Killarney itself is a small town of which there is little to record.
+Adjoining is the Earl of Kenmare's demesne, with its fine gardens and
+splendid golf links; the latter one of the best inland courses in
+Ireland. Visitors can use it on payment of a small green fee.
+
+To proceed by land to the far-famed Gap of Dunloe, and, traversing it,
+take the road to the Upper Lake, is the general plan followed by the
+stranger, for this best shows a great and varied extent of country,
+with such contrasts of softness and grandeur--nay, desolation--as no
+other scenery presents.
+
+In this land the past has graven deep its records in ruined castle,
+tower and abbey, each with its tale. And the first of these after
+leaving Killarney, is to be found at Aghadoe (in Irish Acadh-da-ca,
+"the field of the two yew trees"). It is about two miles from
+Killarney, and a slight detour to the right must be made to visit it.
+
+Aghadoe stands on an eminence commanding most lovely views of the
+lakes and mountains. It was an ancient bishopric, and here is the ruin
+of its Cathedral church, which consists of two chapels of distinct
+periods of antiquity. They lie east and west of each other--that to
+the east, probably dating from about 1158, is in the Pointed style,
+and dedicated to the Holy Trinity; the more ancient, in
+Hiberno-Romanesque style, appears to have been built some centuries
+before the coming of the Normans, and is far richer and more
+beautiful. The western end contains a doorway of recessed arches,
+covered with particularly fine mouldings and decorations.
+
+Not far from the western end are the remains of what must have been a
+very fine Round tower, judging from the style of its masonry, now,
+however, only about 15 feet in height. Many of its stones have been
+taken away and converted into tombstones for neighbouring churchyards,
+or some other need of the mason. The Castle is another massive
+circular fragment of about 30 feet in height, sometimes called "The
+Bishop's Chair," sometimes "The Pulpit," and believed to have been
+the residence of the bishops of the diocese.
+
+Following the road to the north side of the lake, several fine
+demesnes are passed, one of them, Lakeview House, being the residence
+of Sir Morgan Ross O'Connell, Bart., grand-nephew of the Liberator. It
+is a beautiful drive, and many a tale of the past will enliven the
+way, as, crossing Beaufort Bridge over the Laune, you reach Dunloe
+Castle at the west end of the lake, about seven miles from Killarney
+town.
+
+Dunloe Castle stands on a height from whence the view is glorious.
+This Castle is the seat of the Mahonys, and is very ancient. An old
+history of Kerry mentions that its floors are formed of very fine
+planks of the yew tree, a wood which, when well wrought, has a more
+beautiful grain and polish than mahogany. Bees have taken up their
+residence for centuries in this old fortress. They are in curious
+niches and angles behind the massive walls and under the floors. They
+disturb no one and refuse to be evicted. A bee-keeper tried if he
+could tempt them beyond their bounds by laying "sections" in a place
+to which they had access, with a hope of securing some of the honey.
+They took no notice. Through a cupboard in one of the walls, you can
+see far back a host of these little people, the self-constituted
+guests of Dunloe Castle, very busy over their affairs.
+
+There is a fishing lodge close to Dunloe Castle. This is let during
+the season, and very fine sport is to be had. The splendid lake and
+river fishing about Killarney is no small attraction to the angler,
+both being well stocked with the finest trout and salmon.
+
+A very remarkable cave near the Gap of Dunloe was accidentally
+discovered in 1838, and was then and subsequently explored with much
+interest. Its roof has now fallen in. It was a subterranean chamber of
+circular form, the walls of uncemented stones inclining inwards, with
+a roof also of long transverse stones, the angles of which are covered
+with Ogham writing, "which is to the Irish antiquary what the Runes
+are in the north, the Arrow-headed or Wedge characters in Babylonia or
+Persepolis. Arch�ological discoveries in Ireland are of more general
+interest than formerly, as the earth is laying bare her secrets all
+over the world, and what is discovered in one country is found to have
+its bearing on something brought to light in another." The discovery
+of Ogham characters in this cave was additional evidence that the
+Irish had a literature far in advance of the rest of Europe and long
+before the Christian era.
+
+Close to the entrance of the Gap stands Kate Kearney's cottage as,
+whether it contains a "Kate" or not, it will always be called. There
+is many a pretty girl in Kerry whose bright eyes, clear colouring and
+beautiful hair attract the passer by, but Kate will be remembered to
+the end of time, because of the few lines which, "lilting" from a
+poet's heart, conferred upon her the crown of immortal youth and
+beauty:
+
+    "From the glance of her eye, shun danger and fly,
+    For fatal's the glance of Kate Kearney!"
+
+It is the fashion to depreciate Moore as a poet, to compare his lyrics
+to the notes of a musical-box, sweet indeed, but devoid of true
+inspiration. Yet he fulfilled a noble mission in his day, rescuing and
+bringing to light the music of his country, wedding it to words that
+tell its story or reveal its beauties instead of the worthless jingle
+which had so often degraded it. It was Moore's poetry which greatly
+helped to make Killarney known early in the last century to many in
+England.
+
+  [Illustration: THE HEAD OF THE GAP OF DUNLOE.]
+
+Readers of the literature of that day will know what an influence
+Moore was in its intellectual circles--his wit, his geniality, his
+singing, "the effect of which," writes N. P. Willis, who met him at
+Lady Blessington's, "is only equalled by the beauty of his own words."
+His voice was of small compass, but exquisitely modulated and
+expressing every shade of feeling and sentiment, so that women have
+been known to faint as they listened to his singing, which awakened,
+perhaps, a buried sorrow, a long past anguish.
+
+Once enter the Gap of Dunloe and the scene utterly changes; gone is
+the soft verdure, the brilliant tinting, silent the song of birds. On
+either side rise huge rocks, of strange, fantastic shapes, often
+appearing half suspended over the path, while never far from it rushes
+the dark Loe, "a brawling and angry stream," which traverses the whole
+length of the Gap, about four miles, often passing along heights, then
+tumbling into depths with rush and roar, now near, now distant, but
+ever voicing the wild emotions which seem to lurk amid the gloom of
+this stern defile. It expands into five lakes, called collectively
+the Cummeen Lakes, during its passage through the Gap.
+
+Tradition ascribes the origin of this wild pass to a stroke from the
+sword of a mighty giant, which separated the mountains and left them
+apart for ever, MacGillicuddy's Reeks on one side, Toomies and the
+Purple Mountain on the other. Very stern and grand look the Reeks, one
+of their peaks, Carn-tual ("the inverted sickle") rising higher than
+any mountain in Ireland--3,414 feet above the level of the sea. There
+is softer beauty on the mountains to the left, the Purple Mountain in
+particular (2,739 feet in height). The lovely hue which pervades this
+mountain is generally ascribed to a purple heath, which covers its
+sides, almost to the top, with perpetual bloom. Its name, however, was
+originally derived from an immense pile of loose stones and slates of
+a purple tint, which becomes intense when the sun shines upon them.
+
+It is from the Gap of Dunloe that the Purple Mountain should be
+ascended; it is not a formidable climb, but ponies await those who
+fear the fatigue. The view from the summit is magnificent.
+
+The western base of this mountain descends into Augher Lake, and
+close to this spot is the Woodwork Factory, where carved specimens of
+arbutus and other woods can be obtained in inlaid tables, chess and
+backgammon sets, card cases, etc.
+
+Chess is believed to have been played in prehistoric times by the
+ancient Irish, and the frequent mention of the game long before the
+Norman invasion shows it was a favourite one. "The chess board was
+called in Irish 'fithcheall,' and is described in the _Glossary_ of
+Cormac of Cashel, composed towards the close of the ninth century, as
+quadrangular in shape, and having straight spots of black and white.
+Some of these were inlaid with gold and silver and adorned with gems.
+No entire set of the ancient men is now known to exist, though
+frequent mention is made of the brigade or family of chessmen in many
+old manuscripts. Kings of bone, seated in sculptured chairs, about 2
+inches in height, have been found, and specimens of them engraved in
+recent antiquarian publications" (D'Arcy Magee's _History of
+Ireland_).
+
+The most striking part of the Gap is where the valley contracts so as
+to bring the precipitous sides very close together. The peasants have
+named this the Pike, and to the grotesquely formed rocks along the
+pass they have also given names--the Turnpike, O'Donoghue's Heart, and
+so on. The impression conveyed as you proceed, is of gloom and of a
+certain aloofness from the ordinary. The eagle soaring above is no
+uncommon sight.
+
+A little distance from the Pike is a lonely tarn called the Black Lake
+(Loch Dubh), where St. Patrick imprisoned the last Irish snake, which
+is supposed to live in its depths. A little south of the Pass the spot
+is pointed out where the last Irish wolf was slain.
+
+There is a stamp of wild force in all that meets the eye while
+traversing the Gap, which is not diminished as at Gap Cottage the end
+is neared. At its commencement cars have had to be abandoned. You must
+ride or walk. If you have elected to walk you will probably now be
+footsore and weary. Even the sure-footed ponies generally used may not
+prevent fatigue from the rough, precipitous road, but it is forgotten
+when, on leaving the Gap, a turn in the path brings in view one of the
+most famous glens of Killarney--the Black Valley. This was formerly
+described as so black, so desolate, that it might have been named the
+Valley of the Shadow of Death. It owes this reputation merely to its
+English name--a mistranslation from the Irish one--Cumin Dubh
+(O'Duff's Valley). No one knows who this O'Duff was, however, and the
+Black Valley is a more romantic name for a singularly wild and
+beautiful scene.
+
+The path now inclines to the left, bringing in view the Upper Lake,
+its waters glowing like burnished gold, if, as often happens, it
+approaches the sunset hour when you reach it. How lovely it looks,
+guarded on every side by those great mountains which hold so many
+secrets!
+
+Not without a passing regret do we leave the Gap. It has its own
+charm, arousing wonder and curiosity and a certain awe. One really
+feels when the Pike is reached as though there was nothing strange in
+its having emanated from the giant's sword.
+
+The scene surveyed from here is very beautiful, and tempts delay, but
+the Upper Lake must be reached. By the side of the hill you descend is
+the Logan stone, or "balanced rock," long considered a wonder of
+Druidical times. Some affirm now that its rocking motion is from
+natural causes, but, set as it is on the lonely hill, it looks as if
+it well might have been fashioned by those stern old heathen.
+
+Still descending, the road takes a sharp backward curve to the foot of
+Fubrahy's Crags; then, turning again, it continues till, after
+crossing a bridge, it passes through an opening in the wall into
+Gurmaheen Demesne, within which are tea and waiting rooms, called
+"Lord Brandon's Cottage." From thence a short path descends to the
+Upper Lake, where in some sheltered bay your boat awaits you.
+
+  [Illustration: {THE EAGLE'S NEST, KILLARNEY.}]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+THE LAKES AND THE MOUNTAINS
+
+
+No one has ever realized the enchantment of Killarney or fallen under
+its spell who has not been upon its waters. As the boat glides into
+the Upper Lake, all that has ever been said of its varied beauty seems
+poor compared to the reality. The mountains which surround it on every
+side give indescribable grandeur to its scenery--so much so that,
+added to the contrasted beauty of its wooded isles, it is on the whole
+conceded that it bears the golden apple from its sister lakes;
+certainly, as the boatmen row from point to point, you say so, and
+memory, bringing back the vision in after days--perhaps in the hot and
+dusty thoroughfare--confirms the verdict.
+
+The Upper Lake contains twelve small islands, some of them of such a
+height that at a distance they resemble so many lofty towers standing
+in the waters, their summits crowned with bright green wreaths of the
+arbutus and many another verdant shrub and tree. In other aspects they
+appear to represent the ruins of stately palaces. To add to this
+effect, their edges are so much worn by the dashing of water against
+them, and by rains washing away the earth, and "time hath so
+disjointed these marble rocks," that some hang in such curious fashion
+as to represent a rude architectural formation.
+
+The extraordinary verdure, not only of the isles, but of the
+mountains, is even more striking viewed from these lonely waters than
+where man has left more perceptible trace of his presence. It seems
+incredible that giant fern, tree-shrubs, and plants should flourish in
+tropical profusion at the great heights to which they attain, and
+without the artificial aid which is impossible.
+
+This wonderful foliage is the glory of all the islands, but here it
+throws into intense relief the sublimity inseparable from great
+mountain scenery, and even in point of height the MacGillicuddy's
+Reeks can claim greatness. More than a hundred years ago Holmes, in
+his _Tour in Ireland_, records his first glimpse of the noble range:
+"Their peaks immersed in mist and storms, along their prodigious
+furrows the cataracts, swollen by recent rains, tumbling with fury and
+glistening like liquid silver; in a little time the peaks piercing
+through the clouds, the grey mists slow descending like a great
+curtain, through which the sun darted his rays."
+
+  [Illustration: AT THE FOOT OF MANGERTON MOUNTAIN, KILLARNEY.]
+
+The Purple Mountain, always beautiful and changeful in aspect as the
+lakes themselves, looks down from the north, while on the other side
+rises Torc's noble outline, and further off great Mangerton.
+
+Many of the mountains are densely wooded to a great height--giant
+ferns, the rowan, holly, yew, juniper. Above all the arbutus grow in a
+tangle of profusion, and on rocks where no earth appears. How the
+steep rocks and crags can give root-hold to this forestry of green is
+a marvel to the beholder, the roots being simply filaments entwining
+themselves round crevices in the stone, holding on with a grim
+tenacity which defies the wildest storm--better even than the forest
+tree. The birds of the air have dropped their seeds, or the winds
+carried them to this their home, and they will not let it go. Here
+will they stay as long, perchance, as the rocks themselves.
+
+"I expected the loveliness I met," said an English visitor to
+Killarney lately, "and I believe the strongest impression made on me
+was by those beautiful tropical shrubs in mid-air, as they seemed, and
+with no apparent hold on the soil."
+
+The arbutus is supposed by some to have come from Spain and to have
+been cultivated in the first instance by the early monks; but the more
+general belief is that it was indigenous. It is not to be found of
+spontaneous growth nearer to Ireland than the very south of France and
+Italy, and only as a shrub, while about the lakes and mountains here
+it often becomes a large and tall tree. Pliny mentions it as
+extraordinary that it should thus grow in Arabia, and Petra Bellonus
+also observes this as occurring on Mount Athos in Macedonia. But it
+seems to love its Irish home best, and to revel in the luxuriant
+growth which makes it so noticeable in Killarney's leafy forests.
+
+The blossoms of the arbutus grow in clusters of white bells, not
+unlike those of the lily of the valley, in great abundance, and
+nestling under bunches of bright green leaves. It has, at the same
+time, ripe and green fruit on its branches, first a deep pale yellow,
+deepening, as it advances to ripeness, then a brilliant scarlet
+like that of a strawberry. Autumn and winter are the seasons of its
+greatest bloom and beauty.
+
+  [Illustration: O'SULLIVAN'S PUNCHBOWL, KILLARNEY.]
+
+A most beautiful cascade at the western end of the lake tumbles down
+the mountain side and empties itself in a dazzling sheet of foam into
+its waters. The music of its fall seems very close as the boat passes
+the various isles, and you are told the legends connected with them.
+One in particular, MacCarthy's Island, is pointed out as the last
+refuge of one of the great family. We will find other memories of this
+powerful sept in many a local tradition. Here a battle was fought, a
+fort taken or lost, triumph or defeat, and then you are pointed to a
+grave--the end of it all!
+
+But on the Upper Lake it is hard to think of anything but the lovely,
+lonely scenery--lonelier because of the everlasting hills which
+compass it around.
+
+Eagle Island was once the haunt of these royal birds, and still the
+golden eagle has not forsaken it, though less seldom seen. Ronayne
+Island is named after one who lived there, apart from his fellow-men,
+in self-chosen solitude. At each point there is something to relate,
+while every turn produces a change in outline or colour so as almost
+to form a fresh scene. Many a lovely little bay and channel are
+explored, till too soon the boat passes the last islet, enters the
+last bay, rounds the last promontory.
+
+A very narrow part of the passage occurs here where this promontory
+juts out, leaving a breadth of only about thirty feet. It is called
+Coleman's Eye. Some legendary person is said to have leaped across the
+stream here, leaving his footprints on the rock beyond.
+
+And now, with long look and reluctant farewell, we are on the Long
+Range, the river connecting the Upper with its sister lakes.
+
+In Holmes' _Tour_ he thus characterizes the Long Range: "I should
+distinguish the Upper Lake as being the most sublime, the Lower the
+most beautiful, and Muckross Lake the most picturesque, the winding
+passage leading to the Upper containing a surprising combination of
+the three, probably not to be exceeded by any spot in the world."
+
+The Long Range is about two miles in length. Its margins are gemmed
+with water-lilies, snowy and golden. Here the _Osmunda regalia_ is
+seen growing almost in forests, and of great size, its branches, as
+well as those of the alder, birch, yew, arbutus, and many another,
+entwining as if they grew from a common root. Other rare ferns, some
+peculiar to Kerry, as the Brutle fern (_Trichomanes speciosum_),
+completely clothe the wild crags on either side. But it is hopeless to
+attempt specifying the variety of foliage, the different shades of
+green, the masses of heather and gorse, which in all stages of their
+bloom, their first spring glory, or the no less lovely golden and
+brown tints of autumn, make the most rugged mountain sides beautiful.
+And let not the little "bog down" be forgotten which around Killarney
+makes the bogs resemble waving fields of snow. "Light of love" the
+peasant girls call this bog rush, for a breath sends its down floating
+lightly away. A little white tuft of silky cotton, from its shortness
+of no practical use in the work-a-day world, so it lives its life
+unharmed, gay as the bog-land dwellers themselves.
+
+Very wild and grand is the scenery here. Rocks in a hundred forms
+appear as the banks are passed, and behind, at nearer or further
+distance, rise the greater mountain heights.
+
+The boat passes several islets, named from resemblance, real or
+imaginary, The Jolly Boat, The Cannon Rock, The Man-of-War Rock--a
+mass like a vessel, keel uppermost. Soon the far-famed Eagle's Nest is
+reached, a rugged, precipitous cliff 1,700 feet high. Here the eagles
+still have their nest, for Nature has secured them from the hand of
+man. It is a very majestic rock, thickly clothed with evergreens
+nearly to the summit, where, however, heath and a few scattered shrubs
+hide the nest, and show the great outline, the rugged mass, in stern
+sublimity. Here the Killarney Echo is best heard.
+
+Perhaps among the many writers who have tried to describe the effect
+produced by this echo, Mrs. Hall gives the most vivid impression. She
+says: "The bugler first played a single note; it was caught up and
+repeated loudly; softly, again loudly; again softly, and then as if by
+a hundred instruments rolling around and above the mountains, and
+dying softly away. Then a few notes were blown, a multitude of voices
+replied, sometimes pausing, then mingling in a strain of sublime
+grandeur and delicate sweetness. Then came the firing of a cannon,
+when every mountain around seemed instinct with angry life, and
+replied in voices of thunder, the sound being multiplied a
+thousandfold, first a terrific growl, then a fearful crash, both
+caught up and returned by the surrounding hills, while those nearest
+became silent, awaiting the oncoming of those that were distant, then
+dropping to a gentle lull, as if the winds only created them, then
+breaking forth again into a combined and terrific roar."
+
+  [Illustration: MUCKROSS LAKE AND GLENA MOUNTAIN FROM TORC
+    COTTAGE--EARLY MORNING.]
+
+Soon after passing Eagle's Nest the end of the Long Range is reached,
+and the stream divides, skirting round Dinish Island into Lough Leane
+on the left side, to the right passing under Old Weir Bridge into
+Muckross Lake.
+
+The Old Weir Bridge consists of two arches; only one affords a passage
+for boats, and as the water of the Upper Lake rushes into Muckross
+Lake on its way to the sea through the Laune, the current is extremely
+rapid, and it is quite usual for tourists to disembark and walk,
+meeting the boat on the other side. Those with strong nerves, however,
+enjoy "shooting the rapids." You then find yourself in Torc (or
+Muckross) Lake, and opposite Dinish Island, on which is a pretty
+cottage, where it is usual to halt for rest and refreshment. The chief
+feature of the latter is salmon, broiled in cutlets on a fire made of
+arbutus, the slices skewered on a spray of the same, which is said to
+impart a delicious flavour to the fish.
+
+There are so many objects of interest clustered around the Lakes that
+it is vain trying to compress them into the description of a day's
+excursion. When time is an object, the tourist can manage to "do" the
+whole three lakes, but if time permits, the point we have now reached
+should be the limit of his first day, and a row home over the lovely
+waters of Lough Leane to Ross Island is a fitting close to it. The
+grand old Castle never looks so picturesque as in the evening glow;
+let it be his last memory of the day.
+
+  [Illustration: MUCKROSS, KILLARNEY.
+    From above Torc Waterfall, showing the upper and lower lakes with
+      the peninsula which divides them.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+MUCKROSS
+
+
+Nothing more beautiful than the scene viewed from Muckross ("the place
+of wild swine") can be imagined. Its woods and lawns form a large
+promontory, shooting far into the lake, which the wooded isles beyond
+seem almost to join, the water breaking and glancing between like tiny
+bays. Muckross Abbey Mansion stands in lovely grounds, which, fringing
+the slope to the water's edge, form a beautiful shore to the lake.
+
+The scene which this point commands is unrivalled--indeed, Torc lake
+(Torc, a wild boar) need fear no comparison. Toomies and Glena are
+opposite, so softly outlined by the beautiful waving forests which
+cling to their sides that their magnificent height is half forgotten.
+In contrast the hills which rise above the Eagle's Nest are bare,
+broken, almost savage.
+
+But if it is hard to convey by words an idea of scenery in general,
+more difficult is it with that of Killarney, so varied are the effects
+produced under its changeful skies,
+
+    "Shining through sorrow's beam,
+    Saddening through sorrow's gleam."
+
+Mr. Young, our English visitor of long ago, notices this much. In one
+place he observes: "Torc was obscured by the sun shining immediately
+above him, and, casting a stream of burning light on the water,
+displayed an effect to describe which the pencil of a Claude alone
+would be equal."
+
+The ruined Abbey of Muckross stands in the grounds of Muckross
+demesne, and was founded by a MacCarthy Mor in 1340, according to the
+_Annals of the Four Masters_, upon the site of a much older church,
+which was destroyed by fire. It was built for Conventual Franciscans,
+and was dedicated to the Holy Trinity. The original name was Irrelagh.
+
+The two principal parts of the ruin are the convent and the church,
+the latter about 100 feet in length and 24 feet in breadth, the
+steeple standing between the nave and chancel, resting on four high
+and slender pointed arches.
+
+The cloisters are in a very perfect state, consisting of a beautiful
+quadrangle of marble arches, some pointed, some with semicircular
+heads, enclosing a square, in the centre of which stands the great
+yew-tree, said to be as old as the Abbey itself. It rises to the
+height of 60 feet, its spreading branches overshadowing the cloisters
+and forming a canopy, impervious to the sun. The circumference of its
+trunk is 13 feet, and it is regarded with much awe because of a belief
+that anyone attempting to pluck a leaf or branch, or in any way injure
+this yew, will not be alive on that day twelve months.
+
+The principal entrance is by a handsome Pointed doorway, from which is
+seen the great eastern window, with its simple, beautiful tracery. The
+space within is filled with tombs, many of them nameless. A large
+modern one in the centre of the choir covers a vault, where in ancient
+times were interred the MacCarthys, and, more lately, the O'Donoghues.
+
+Close to this tomb is the slab which formerly covered the vault,
+without inscription, but bearing the arms of the Earl of Clancarty of
+the old creation, this title and that of Viscount Valentia being
+bestowed by Queen Elizabeth in 1565 on Donald MacCarthy Mor, the head
+of the elder branch of that great family. His haughty followers would
+none of it, and slighted the chieftain who had condescended, however
+grudgingly, to accept an honour at the hands of the Sassenach.
+
+The dormitories, cellars, kitchens, refectories, etc., are in good
+preservation, but the upper rooms are unroofed. There is a great
+fireplace in the refectory, where once the monks kept good cheer. Very
+silent and deserted it is now, with the innumerable graves around.
+
+The great Torc Cascade empties itself into Muckross Lake a little more
+than a mile from the Abbey. It comes from the Devil's Punch Bowl,
+which it is worth ascending Mangerton to see. On the western side of
+the mountain is a small circular lake, about 600 yards in diameter
+across the top. From the brink, as you look downwards, there is a
+depth of nearly 300 yards. This is the Devil's Punch Bowl. On the side
+next Muckross there is an immense perpendicular chasm, equal in depth
+to the height of the sides of the Bowl, into which its overflowings
+rush and are conveyed through a narrow channel, called the Devil's
+Stream, to the shore of Muckross Lake, tumbling down the sides of the
+hill, nearly 200 feet, in a great cascade.
+
+In the peninsula of Muckross is a mine, now disused, which, when
+worked by an English company in 1804, gave a large output of the
+finest copper ore.
+
+There are many indications of mineral treasures yet to be discovered
+among the hills and glens of Killarney. When Dr. Berkeley was asked
+his opinion of Muckross at a time when Art was considered far superior
+to Nature, he replied: "The French monarch might possibly be able to
+create another Versailles, but could not, with all his revenues, lay
+out another Muckross."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+ROSS, INNISFALLEN, AND THE LOWER LAKE
+
+
+Ross is only separated from the mainland by a narrow cut through a
+morass, which gives it its claim to be an island.
+
+This division is probably artificial, and made in former days to
+strengthen the fortifications of the Castle. A carriage road from the
+town of Killarney crosses the small connecting bridge and brings the
+tourist under the walls of Ross Castle, where there is a landing-place
+for those who come by water.
+
+Ross Castle is still a splendid old fortress, far less injured by time
+or mischance than most of its contemporaries in Kerry. A tall and
+stately building, it is seen from far, dominating Lough Leane and
+adding additional charm to the view, with its massive buttresses and
+battlements, reminders of the old fighting days. It is but a short
+distance between Ross and Muckross, yet the character of the scene is
+utterly changed. Say what we will of the other lakes, Lough Leane
+remains the lake of enchantment.
+
+Ross is a very ancient Castle, built by some far-back O'Donoghue, the
+precise date unknown. Within is a spiral staircase of stone mounting
+to the top, from whence a marvellous panorama lies before you.
+
+In 1652 Ross Castle was held by Lord Muskerry for the King, during the
+Parliamentary wars, against General Ludlow. It was well garrisoned and
+provisioned, and the defenders were prepared vigorously to repel the
+foe, yet they surrendered almost at once. There was an old prophecy
+that Ross Castle would never be taken till warships were seen on the
+lake, and when the garrison beheld the boats which General Ludlow had
+built and conveyed overland approaching to attack, they yielded. The
+prophecy was fulfilled: it was useless to fight against fate. But it
+is more to legendary than historical lore that Ross Castle owes the
+fascination which surrounds it.
+
+The guides of Killarney deserve mention here, for they add to the
+enjoyment of the various excursions, knowing every legend, each
+association, the origin of every name, and are even capable of
+inventing on the spur of the moment romances the most picturesque,
+wonders the most thrilling, discerning at a glance on whom to expend
+their powers of imagination. "All sorts and conditions of men" come
+under their ken. In the tourist season scarce a land but has its
+representative, to some of whom Ireland was a sealed page till they
+listened to the tales of Killarney from her guides.
+
+Here they point to you the very window from which the great O'Donoghue
+leaped into the lake below. There he reigns in the regions of
+enchantment, greater and happier than in his earthly sovereignty. Once
+in every seven years on a May morning, before the first beams of the
+sun have arisen over the mountain tops, the sweetest strains of fairy
+music are heard, and the great chieftain may be seen on a splendid
+snow-white charger, shod with silver shoes, riding over the lake,
+preceded by a joyous band of youths and maidens scattering flowers
+before him. Well it is for the mortal who sees him; prosperity will
+follow from that day forth.
+
+Just, generous, and greatly beloved were the O'Donoghues of Ross, and
+their memory is perpetuated among a people who do not easily forget.
+Wander where you will, you find some association with the name,
+particularly among rock and crag on the Lower Lake, of which
+O'Donoghue's Horse is the most remarkable. This rock has been fretted
+and worn away by the action of the waters into a curious semblance of
+a horse in the act of drinking. Then there is O'Donoghue's prison, his
+table, his pulpit--each with its story.
+
+You will be told, too, how at the deepest part of this lake, more than
+60 fathoms down, at a spot between Ross and Innisfallen, a great
+carbuncle may be seen, which on a dark night lights up the rocks at
+the bottom of the lake, and shows the palaces and towers of the
+ancient city which the waters now cover.
+
+Ross is the largest island on the lake. It contains about 80 acres. On
+the southern point is a famous copper mine, opened in 1804 by Colonel
+Hall, who found clear proof that it had been worked at a very remote
+period. Rude stone hammers of very ancient make were discovered--Danes'
+hammers, the people call them--and the traces of fire were found. The
+vein, however, gave out after four years, during which time, says
+Crofton Croker, "nearly �60,000 worth of ore was disposed of at
+Swansea, some cargoes producing �40 per ton."
+
+The country round the lakes is very rich in ores of various kinds.
+Lead ore has been discovered, and the mountains abound with iron.
+Specimens of ore which contain tin are also found.
+
+Killarney has treasures, however, which better suit the witchery of
+her beauty. Pearls are found in Lough Leane, and still more often in
+the River Laune, which runs out of it. These are, of course, very
+inferior to the Oriental jewel, but now and again a fine specimen is
+obtained. "A little Kerry pearle" was not considered an unworthy
+present to a great man in 1756; also "a dozen Kerry stones," these
+probably being the beautiful amethysts found in the cliffs near Kerry
+Head. These have always been valued. A set of ear-rings, a necklace,
+and other ornaments composed of these amethysts were presented to
+Queen Caroline (wife of George II.) by the Countess of Kerry, and most
+graciously received. A like gracious reception was given to an Irish
+pearl presented by the Bishop of Limerick to the great Anselm,
+Archbishop of Canterbury in 1074.
+
+  [Illustration: THE ISLAND OF INNISFALLEN.
+    In the lower lake of Killarney. It once possessed a monastery
+      where the "Annals of Innisfallen," now at the Bodleian, were
+      written.]
+
+Very brilliant are the "Kerry diamonds," and very pretty, but
+valueless save to the children who pick them up, and perhaps to that
+fairy world whose standards are not the sordid ones of mortals. To
+them these lovely crystals, whether clear or coloured, may be the true
+treasure.
+
+Beautiful Innisfallen, with hill and glen, creek and harbour, and
+cliffs overhung by trees shading the many bays. The Gem of Killarney
+it is called. "Not heaven's reflex, but a bit fallen out of heaven
+itself," were Macaulay's words, and they express the feeling called
+forth by its rich verdure, its wonders of foliage and of colour, the
+ineffable beauty which clothes it as a mantle. Yet so great are its
+contrasts that in this island of 24 acres are woods as gloomy as the
+ancient Druidical forests, thick with giant ash and enormous hollies.
+
+As you approach the island you seem to draw near such a forest, so
+close are these great trees, extending into the water. On landing, you
+find they encircle a lawn of the deepest and most vivid green. Open
+glades through the trees give enchanting vistas--the lofty peaks of
+Toomies and Glena, the misty summits of the Purple Mountain, Ross
+Castle and its wooded shores, sunny islands and sparkling waters,
+sometimes so still as to reflect the woods and mountains as in a
+mirror. In the morning hour the mountains bordering on the Lower Lake
+are left in shadow, but as the day goes on the sun glides
+imperceptibly along the line of the great chain, and darts his rays on
+that side of the mountains which lies next to the lake. All their bold
+irregularities are then revealed--their protruding rocks, their deep
+glens, and the lake is illuminated amid its dark and wooded isles by
+the long gleams which pass athwart its waves.
+
+At such hours it looks too fair a world for sin and sorrow, but yonder
+stands the Castle, with ruined battlements and many a grim sign of the
+stormy past, while fair Innisfallen itself contains a ruin where once
+holy men maintained a warfare equally deadly against the powers of
+evil, though fought with no mortal weapons.
+
+Little remains of the Abbey of Innisfallen, founded in the sixth
+century by St. Finian. Even the walls are levelled save for the
+remains of an oratory, whose western gable contains a doorway with
+rich decorations. This monastery, however decayed, will always be
+famous, because the _Annals of Innisfallen_ were written here.
+
+The original work is in the Bodleian Library. It is on parchment and
+in medium quarto, and contains fifty-seven leaves. Extracts from the
+Old Testament and a history of the ancient world down to the arrival
+of St. Patrick in Ireland in 432 form the earlier part. From this
+period it deals exclusively with the affairs of Ireland, terminating
+with 1319. It seems to have been the production of two monks, one
+carrying it to 1216, the other continuing it to 1320. It is one of the
+earliest of Irish histories, and considered by savants as taking high
+rank among them.
+
+In 1100 the Abbey was plundered by Mildwin O'Donoghue of a great
+treasure of gold, silver, and rich goods of the adjacent country,
+which had been deposited there as secure sanctuary. Many of the clergy
+were slain by the MacCarthys, "But," writes the monk, "God soon
+punished this act of sacrilege and impiety by bringing many of its
+authors to an untimely end."
+
+Well, there is peace now in fair Innisfallen. The visitor bears away
+its impress with the memory of one of the fairest spots on earth.
+
+    "Sweet Innisfallen, fare thee well,
+    May calm and sunshine still be thine;
+    How fair thou art let others tell,
+    To feel how fair yet still be mine."
+
+Glena, the "glen of good fortune," is one of the most eagerly sought
+out beauty spots of Killarney. Glena Bay is the first part of the
+Lower Lake if it is entered from the Long Range, but by whatever way
+you reach it the picture which meets the eye is unsurpassed.
+
+The mountains of Glena and Toomies are densely wooded to their base,
+the trees hanging over their sides and coming down in rich luxuriance
+to the water's edge. A very forest of the finest arbutus, with berry
+and blossom together in autumn, with oak, ash, pine, birch and alder,
+white thorn, yew, and holly, it must be seen to realize the colour
+effect or the matchless tintings of gorse and heather, a great mosaic
+quivering in the sunshine. The varieties of this immense scenery of
+forest are impossible to describe, the woods extending about six miles
+in length, and from half a mile to a mile and a half in breadth, while
+the inequalities of the ground produce wondrous effects of light and
+shadow.
+
+Glena is all soft loveliness, but rugged rock and crag, and the stern
+grandeur of Torc Mountain on the other side, strike again that minor
+chord never far from Killarney's brightest scenes.
+
+  [Illustration: IN A TYPICAL COTTAGE.]
+
+Lough Leane has upwards of thirty isles, large and small, and as the
+boat is rowed past Glena shore you see them in all their varied form
+and colour, from Ross to tiny Mouse Island. It is a fair sight. There
+is a little bay at the foot of the Toomies where you can land to reach
+O'Sullivan's Cascade, one of the greatest of the Killarney waterfalls,
+not only from its size, but from the peculiar formation of the bed
+down which it dashes. It really consists of three falls. "The
+uppermost, passing over a bridge of rocks, falls about 20 feet
+perpendicularly into a natural basin; then, bursting between two
+hanging rocks, the torrent hastens down a second precipice into a
+second receptacle, from which it rolls over into the lowest chamber of
+the fall. It is about 70 feet high. The roar of the descending water
+can be heard from afar, and is almost deafening when near. Beneath a
+projecting rock overhanging the lowest basin is a grotto, with a seat
+rudely cut in the rock. From this little grotto the view of the
+cascade is peculiarly beautiful. It appears a continued flight of
+three foamy stories. The recess is overshadowed by an arch of foliage
+so thick as to interrupt the admission of light."
+
+The forest about Toomies is still the haunt of the old red deer of
+Ireland, and a grand stag hunt is occasionally organized, the cries of
+the hounds, the shouting of the hunters, the firing of the signalling
+cannon, combining to awake the mountain echoes for many miles around.
+It is a cruel sport, though the stag is now, as a rule, saved from
+death. Yet its gallant attempts to save itself, its struggles to get
+free from the cordon of enemies around, its agonies of terror as,
+bounding for refuge to the heights, it is confronted by shouting men,
+and turned to confront the savage pack, are cruel enough. It leaps
+from rock to rock and chasm to chasm with sobbing breath and big
+tears, and plunges into the lake in desperation, to be met by the
+boats watching for it. Of late years it is set free, but it is not
+sentimentality to imagine that the grim experience it has passed
+through will render the life given to it a thing of terror, haunted by
+the bay of the hounds and the shouts of the hunters.
+
+  [Illustration: MOUNTAIN HOMES OF THE KILLARNEY DISTRICT.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+THE KILLARNEY FOLK
+
+
+The people who dwell on the shores of these lovely lakes are a
+handsome race, tall and finely formed, with clear-cut features and
+dark and most expressive eyes, often of the Irish grey or deep violet,
+with long black lashes. Pencilled eyebrows and abundance of dark-brown
+hair usually accompany these, and that clear complexion which the
+moist western breezes confer. They love music and dancing, the "boys
+and girls," who, meeting on a roadside, only require a merry tune to
+"foot it away" and forget their cares.
+
+But with all their lightheartedness their standard of duty is very
+high, and family ties are sacred. Seldom, if ever, is infidelity known
+among the married, and a certain honour is given to the head of the
+poorest household. Husband and wife each has a distinct place, which
+neither would dream of usurping, the husband having the chief, of
+course. In one case, however, and that a very important one to an
+Irishman, right of precedence is universally granted to the wife. This
+is when it happens that she is by birth of a superior tribe to her
+husband. "I am a MacCarthy; my husband is only a so-and-so," she will
+say proudly.
+
+There are many "shealings" around and on the sides of the mountains,
+where the "mountainy men," as they are called, cultivate patches of
+land with a success due to their patient industry. They have hens, a
+few goats, and perhaps some lean mountain sheep, and all these are
+liable to visitations from the eagles when rearing their young. Often,
+too, they have one or two cows of the Kerry breed, which find sweet
+pickings among the rocks, and give more milk on the scant herbage than
+the sleek and well-favoured kine of richer counties. This breed is
+small, with long horns and wild, handsome heads.
+
+Simple-hearted, generous and faithful are these men and women, with a
+dignified courtesy of manner which tells of the Eastern strain in
+their blood. Their courtesy and good manners are, indeed, very
+charming. For instance, you may have been out all day with a man, and
+when you reach his home he will step in first, and, turning, offer you
+his hand and bid you welcome, as though it were the first time he had
+met you that day. He welcomes you, and then you will be placed in the
+seat of honour, and refreshments brought you, the refusal of which
+would be an insult.
+
+The love of classical learning among the peasantry was great. It
+continues still, though the classics are not cultivated in this
+practical age as in the days when they were taught by travelling
+scholars at the hedge schools. All the old writers on Killarney
+mention their wonder at meeting poorly-clad men and boys able to
+converse fluently in Latin, and studying the best Latin, and even
+Greek, authors. The power of reading Homer in the original was greatly
+coveted, and often attained. The magic of their surroundings may have
+had much to do with kindling the peasant's imagination to passionate
+interest in a dead language.
+
+The first distinct mention of the sea-coast adjoining Killarney occurs
+in the works of Ptolemy, who wrote in the second century. He speaks
+of the river of Kenmare under the title of Iernus, while again it is
+called Fluctus Desmonda, or the River of Desmond. At this Iernus of
+Ptolemy is placed by ancient authors the landing of several Milesian
+colonists, and though Irish history before the Christian era is
+chiefly traditional, there seems some foundation for this.
+
+If we believe the bards and seers, the Milesian immigration was the
+fifth which came to colonize Hibernia out of the overflowing tribes of
+Asia. Of the fourth, the Tuatha de Danans, they tell a curious tale.
+These colonizers are depicted as accomplished sooth-sayers and
+necromancers who came out of Greece. They could quell storms, cure
+diseases, work in metals, foretell future events, and, by their
+supernatural powers as well as by virtue of the Lia Fail, or Stone of
+Destiny, they subdued the Firbolgs, who had preceded them, and
+exercised sovereignty, till they in turn were displaced by the Gaelic
+or fifth immigration.
+
+Sometimes these called themselves Gael, from an ancestor; sometimes
+Milesians, from Milesius, projector of the immigration; sometimes
+Scota, from his wife. They came from Spain, and all their magical arts
+did not save the Tuatha from defeat. "In vain they surrounded
+themselves and their coveted island with magic-made tempest and
+terrors; in vain they reduced it in size so as to be almost invisible
+from sea. Amergin, one of the sons of Milesius, was a Druid skilled in
+all the arts of the East, and, led by him, his brothers countermined
+the magicians and beat them with their own weapons."
+
+Among the mountains of South Kerry the peasants point out a stone
+where Queen Scota, daughter of Pharaoh of Egypt, and wife of Milesius
+of Spain, is believed to lie buried. She was killed in battle three
+days after landing with her sons on this coast. Upon the flat of the
+stone is an Ogham inscription, which reads, "Leacht Scoihin" ("The
+grave mound of Scota"). Ogham experts think this inscription a
+forgery, but the old tradition makes it at least probable that within
+sound of the thunder of the Atlantic, far from her own people, lies
+the daughter of the Pharaohs.
+
+From an antiquarian point of view Kerry is one of the most interesting
+places in the British Isles, and very rich in relics of the past. An
+arch�ological society has been formed, which is endeavouring to rescue
+the relics and monuments from neglect and decay. Killarney has been
+found a singularly promising field to explore, though much has
+perished.
+
+The Celtic nature is curiously complex, and those who do not
+themselves possess it find it hard to understand. It has one quality
+in which no other race has ever equalled it, and that is a marvellous
+power of absorbing alien nationalities to itself, so that, while
+conquered, it yet conquers. It is a matter of current knowledge that
+the English became more Irish than the Irish themselves. They
+intermarried with the families of native chiefs, gave their children
+to be nursed by Irish foster-mothers, spoke the Irish tongue, espoused
+the Irish interests. Had this power of amalgamation been encouraged,
+and not sternly repressed by the English Government, there was a
+period when it might have changed completely the destiny of Ireland;
+but it was not to be.
+
+There is an interesting poem by an Irishman, "The Geraldines," from
+which I quote one verse:
+
+    "These Geraldines! these Geraldines! not long our air they breathed,
+    Not long they fed on venison in Irish water seethed,
+    Not often had their children been by Irish mothers nursed,
+    When from their full and genial hearts an Irish feeling burst.
+    The English monarchs strove in vain, by law, and force, and bribe,
+    To win from Irish thoughts and ways this more than Irish tribe;
+    For still they cling to fosterage, to _breitheamh_, cloak, and bard;
+    What King dare say to Geraldine, 'Your Irish wife discard'?"
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+THE FAIRIES--AND FAREWELL!
+
+
+The Raths, or "fairy forts," of Killarney have hitherto seldom been
+explored. They are circular grassy mounds enclosing a field, generally
+small. Underneath are found stone chambers, their beehive roofs and
+walls made of unmortared stone. It is supposed that here the ancient
+Celts fortified themselves and their cattle, retreating in winter into
+the stone chambers. Be this as it may, for centuries the Irish have
+believed them to be tenanted by a fairy race, whose palaces are here,
+and who guard hidden treasure.
+
+These are the Sidhe, or people of the hill, the noblest among these
+mysterious folk. Some say they are the spirits of the Tuatha de Danan,
+that strange race which occupied Ireland till the Milesians came,
+when, conquered by a greater magic than their own, they disappeared.
+Strange to say, no mortal descendant of these people has ever been
+traced in any Irish family.
+
+  [Illustration: CUTTING PEAT FROM THE BOG.
+    It takes less than a week for a man to cut his fuel supply for a
+      whole year.]
+
+But there is another race, and these are the fairies proper, very
+human in their traits, tricky and malicious if slighted or offended,
+but good friends if treated properly. I cannot resist quoting a story
+("Hanafin and his Cows") told in a late Kerry Arch�ological Magazine
+by Lady Gordon--a tale of the fairies, originally collected in Kerry
+by Mr. J. Curtin.
+
+"Hanafin was a farmer owning a large herd of cows, which were driven
+up every morning to be milked in front of his house. For several days
+the tub into which the milk was poured was mysteriously overturned and
+the milk spilled. Hanafin's wife was naturally excessively indignant,
+but, in spite of every precaution, the milk continued to be upset. One
+morning, however, as Hanafin was walking past a fairy fort, he heard a
+child crying inside it, and a woman's voice saying: 'Be quiet awhile!
+Hanafin's cows are going home; we'll soon have milk in plenty.'
+Hanafin went home and personally supervised the milking, and on the
+usual overturning stopped his wife from scolding, telling her this
+time it was no fault of the girls, who had been pushed by one of the
+cows against the tub. 'Leave it to me,' he said; 'I'll try and manage
+the business.'
+
+"The following morning, on hearing the child cry again in the fort,
+Hanafin, 'like the brave man he was,' went inside. He saw no one, but
+he said, 'A child is crying for milk. A cow of mine will calve
+to-morrow. I'll let no one milk that cow; you can do what you like
+with her milk.'
+
+"The tub was never overturned again, and for two years Hanafin
+prospered in every way, taking good care of the cow, and never letting
+her be milked.
+
+"Unfortunately, however, Hanafin, being soft-hearted, went security
+for some of his neighbours who had got into trouble, with the result
+that their creditors came down on him, and the bailiffs arrived one
+day to drive off his cattle. Hanafin repaired to the fort, and said:
+'I'm going to lose all my cattle, but I'll try and keep the cow I gave
+you, and feed her still, so that the child may have the milk.'
+
+"Three bailiffs came and went down to the pasture across the field,
+but when they drove the cows up as far as the fairy fort 'each
+bailiff was caught and thrown hither and over by people he couldn't
+see. One moment he was at one side of the ditch, the next at the
+other. They were so roughly handled and bruised that they were hardly
+alive, and they not seeing who or what was doing it! The cattle,
+raising their tails, bawled and ran off to the pasture.'
+
+"The following morning ten policemen and bailiffs went to take
+Hanafin's cattle, with exactly the same results, so that the men
+'barely left the place alive.' Never again did police or bailiff
+meddle with Hanafin's cattle, and the creditors never collected their
+money."
+
+These are the familiar fairies who stole children out of their
+cradles, young matrons from their husbands, and girls from their
+lovers; who bewitched cows and blighted potatoes, but who "did you
+many a good turn too." The peasant will not lightly lose faith in
+them, nor will the fairies lightly forsake the land of beauty, of
+sunshine, and of shadow. Quickly as events march and ideas change in
+this wonderful age, hurrying we know not where, and though here and
+there someone may be found to dare--or say he will--enter a fairy fort
+or cut down a fairy thorn, I think that with the boldest of these
+unbelievers it is a case of the man who denied the power of the priest
+to turn him into a rat, but who, saying "It's as well to make sure,"
+took the precaution of shutting up the cat at night. "Taking it all
+round," writes Lady Gordon, "it would be a drab world if there were no
+fairies in it, no supernatural region in which nothing is too
+preposterous to occur.... Earth-bound humanity, seeking to escape from
+earth cares, still dreams in one form or other of a land of strange
+happenings."
+
+How much remains still to be said about Killarney, its varied
+interests, its shifting, matchless scenery! The lover of beauty and
+romance, the historian, the arch�ologist, the antiquary--it is a field
+for each. It has begun to dawn on the mind of many explorers what
+great questions hinge on Celtic antiquities, what light they may shed
+upon the ancient history of Europe, while students of the Irish
+language say it will yet prove the key to ancient ones which are
+puzzling philologists. Killarney is rich in Ogham inscriptions, in
+curious old remains and relics (utilized hitherto by mason and
+builder). Such as are not hopelessly lost are gradually being
+unearthed by the ardent seekers of to-day.
+
+Whatever changes may be in the future, Killarney must ever remain a
+land of enchantment. Perhaps a few recent words of Alfred Austin may
+fitly close this attempt to sketch the principal features of this fair
+land.
+
+"The tender grace of wood and water is set in a framework of hills,
+now stern, now ineffably gentle, now dimpling with smiles, now
+frowning and rugged with impending storm, now muffled and mysterious
+with mist, only to meet you again with brilliant sunshine. Here the
+trout leaps, there the eagle soars, and there beyond the wild deer
+dash through the arbutus covert, through which they have come to the
+margin of the lake to drink, and, scared by your footstep or your oar,
+are away back to bracken or heather-covered moorland. But the first,
+the final, the deepest and most enduring impression of Killarney is
+that of beauty unspeakably tender, which puts on at times a garb of
+grandeur and a look of awe, only to heighten by contrast its soft
+loveliness. How the missel thrushes sing, as well they may! How the
+streams and runnels leap and laugh! For the sound of journeying water
+is never out of your ears, the feeling of the moist, the fresh, the
+vernal is never out of your heart."
+
+No, never! True words are these with which reluctantly to say farewell
+to beautiful Killarney.
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+
+    Aghadoe, 12
+
+    Antiquities of Kerry, 53
+
+    Arbutus, The, 26
+
+    Austin, Alfred, 61
+
+
+    Black Valley, 20
+
+
+    Chess in Ancient Ireland, 19
+
+    Clancarty, Earl of, 36
+
+    Classical learning amongst older generation, 51
+
+    Coleman's Eye, 28
+
+
+    Devil's Punch Bowl, 36
+
+    Devil's Stream, 37
+
+    Dunloe Castle, 14
+
+    Dunloe, Gap of, 17
+
+
+    Eagle Island, 27
+
+
+    Fairies, The, 56
+
+    Foliage of mountain-sides, 24
+
+
+    "Geraldines, The," 54
+
+    Glena, 46
+
+    Golf Links, 12
+
+    Guides, The, 39
+
+
+    "Hanafin and His Cows," 57
+
+
+    Innisfallen, Abbey of, 44
+
+    Innisfallen, Annals of, 44
+
+    Innisfallen Island, 43
+
+    Islands, The, 23
+
+
+    Kate Kearney's cottage, 16
+
+    Killarney folk, 49
+
+
+    Lakes and mountains, 23
+
+    Last Irish snake, 20
+
+    "Light of Love," 29
+
+    Logan Stone, 21
+
+    Long Range, The, 28
+
+    "Lord Brandon's Cottage," 22
+
+    Lough Leane, 47
+
+    Ludlow, Parliamentary General, 39
+
+
+    Macaulay, Lord, his words on Innisfallen, 43
+
+    MacCarthy's Island, 27
+
+    MacGillicuddy's Reeks, 18
+
+    Mineral treasures, 37, 41
+
+    Moore, Thomas, the poet, 16
+
+    Muckross Abbey, 33
+
+    Muskerry, Lord, the Royalist, 39
+
+
+    O'Donoghue and his white charger, 6, 40
+
+    O'Donoghues of Ross, The, 40
+
+    Ogham inscriptions, 15, 53
+
+    Origin of the lakes, legendary, 9
+
+    _Osmundi Regalia_, 28
+
+    O'Sullivan's Cascade, 47
+
+
+    Precious Stones of Kerry, 42, 43
+
+    Ptolemy's map of Ireland, 51
+
+    Purple Mountain, 18
+
+
+    Raths, or fairy forts, 56
+
+    Ross Castle, 38
+
+
+    Scota, Queen, daughter of Pharaoh, 53
+
+    Settlements of Ireland, early, 52
+
+    Sidhe, the, or People of the Hill, 56
+
+    Stag-hunting, 48
+
+    Stillman, the famous war correspondent, 7
+
+
+    Toomies Mountain, 18, 46
+
+    Torc Cascade, 36
+
+    _Trichomanes speciosum_, or Brutle Fern, 29
+
+
+    Voice of Nature, The, 7
+
+
+BILLING AND SONS, LTD., PRINTERS, GUILDFORD
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's Note
+
+Minor punctuation errors have been fixed.
+
+The following amendments have been made, for consistency:
+
+    Page 24--McGillicuddy's amended to MacGillicuddy's--... even
+    in point of height the MacGillicuddy's Reeks ...
+
+    Page 50--McCarthy amended to MacCarthy--"I am a MacCarthy; my
+    husband is only a so-and-so," ...
+
+The frontispiece illustration has been moved to follow the title page.
+Other illustrations have been moved where necessary so that they are
+not in the middle of a paragraph.
+
+The List of Illustrations notes that "The Eagle's Nest, Killarney"
+appears "On the cover." This is preserved as printed; however the
+illustration was actually located facing page 22, and the transcriber
+has left it in this location.
+
+Ditto marks in the Index have been replaced with the appropriate words.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Killarney, by Mary Gorges
+
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+      The Project Gutenberg eBook of Killarney, by Mary Gorges.
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+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Killarney, by Mary Gorges
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Killarney
+
+Author: Mary Gorges
+
+Illustrator: Francis S. Walker
+
+Release Date: March 15, 2014 [EBook #45144]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK KILLARNEY ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by sp1nd, Sam W. and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+<div class="bboxtop">
+<p><b>Transcriber's Note</b></p>
+
+<p>Some illustrations were uncaptioned in the original. The transcriber has
+used the captions from the list of illustrations for the convenience of
+the reader. These captions are in {braces}.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 425px;">
+<img src="images/cover.jpg" width="425" height="600"
+alt="Front cover of the book" />
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 398px;">
+<img src="images/bik01.jpg" width="398" height="600"
+alt="Decorative title page" />
+</div>
+
+
+<div class="titlep">
+<p class="centerlrg">Beautiful Ireland</p>
+
+
+<h1>Killarney</h1>
+
+<p class="centerpad">By<br />
+<span class="lrgfont">Mary Gorges</span></p>
+
+
+<p class="centerpad">London<br />
+Adam &amp; Charles Black<br />
+Soho Square W<br />
+1912</p>
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="upperlake" id="upperlake"></a>
+<img src="images/bik02.jpg" width="600" height="397"
+alt="" />
+<p class="caption">{THE UPPER LAKE.}</p>
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>3]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2>CONTENTS</h2>
+
+<div class="centered">
+<table border="0" summary="Table of Contents">
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdrt"><small>CHAPTER</small></td>
+    <td class="tdlsc">&nbsp;</td>
+    <td class="tdrt"><small>PAGE</small></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdrt">I.</td>
+    <td class="tdlsc">The Glamour of Killarney</td>
+    <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_5">5</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdrt">II.</td>
+    <td class="tdlsc">The Road through the Gap: Its Memories and its Ruins</td>
+    <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_11">11</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdrt">III.</td>
+    <td class="tdlsc">The Lakes and the Mountains</td>
+    <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_23">23</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdrt">IV.</td>
+    <td class="tdlsc">Muckross</td>
+    <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_33">33</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdrt">V.</td>
+    <td class="tdlsc">Ross, Innisfallen, and the Lower Lake</td>
+    <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_38">38</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdrt">VI.</td>
+    <td class="tdlsc">The Killarney Folk</td>
+    <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_49">49</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdrt">VII.</td>
+    <td class="tdlsc">The Fairies&mdash;and Farewell!</td>
+    <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_56">56</a></td>
+  </tr>
+</table>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>4]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2>
+
+<p class="center">BY FRANCIS S. WALKER, R.H.A.</p>
+
+
+<div class="centered">
+<table border="0" summary="List of illustrations">
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdrt">1.</td>
+    <td class="tdlsc">The Upper Lake</td>
+    <td class="tdrb"><a href="#upperlake"><i>Frontispiece</i></a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdrt">&nbsp;</td>
+    <td class="tdlsc">&nbsp;</td>
+    <td class="tdrb"><small>FACING&nbsp;PAGE</small></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdrt">2.</td>
+    <td class="tdlsc">The Gap of Dunloe on a Stormy Day</td>
+    <td class="tdrb"><a href="#dunloegap">9</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdrt">3.</td>
+    <td class="tdlsc">The Head of the Gap of Dunloe</td>
+    <td class="tdrb"><a href="#dunloehead">16</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdrt">4.</td>
+    <td class="tdlsc">At the Foot of Mangerton Mountain</td>
+    <td class="tdrb"><a href="#mangerton">25</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdrt">5.</td>
+    <td class="tdlsc">O&rsquo;Sullivan&rsquo;s Punchbowl</td>
+    <td class="tdrb"><a href="#punchbowl">27</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdrt">6.</td>
+    <td class="tdlsc">Muckross Lake and Glena Mountain</td>
+    <td class="tdrb"><a href="#muckrosslake">30</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdrt">7.</td>
+    <td class="tdlsc">Muckross</td>
+    <td class="tdrb"><a href="#muckross">32</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdrt">8.</td>
+    <td class="tdlsc">The Island of Innisfallen</td>
+    <td class="tdrb"><a href="#innisfallen">43</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdrt">9.</td>
+    <td class="tdlsc">In a Typical Cottage</td>
+    <td class="tdrb"><a href="#cottage">46</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdrt">10.</td>
+    <td class="tdlsc">Mountain Homes of the Killarney District</td>
+    <td class="tdrb"><a href="#mountainhomes">49</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdrt">11.</td>
+    <td class="tdlsc">Cutting Peat from the Bog</td>
+    <td class="tdrb"><a href="#cuttingpeat">56</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdrt">12.</td>
+    <td class="tdlsc">The Eagle&rsquo;s Nest, Killarney</td>
+    <td class="tdrb"><a href="#eaglesnest"><i>On the cover</i></a></td>
+  </tr>
+</table>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>5]</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="reptitle">KILLARNEY</p>
+
+
+
+
+<h2 class="nobreak">CHAPTER I<br />
+<span class="smlfont">THE GLAMOUR OF KILLARNEY</span></h2>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Killarney</span>&mdash;in Irish &ldquo;the Church of the Sloes&rdquo;&mdash;though
+but a small town, is, owing to its position,
+the centre from which the wondrously lovely
+scenery of the district may best be explored, a
+district which has been described as &ldquo;the Mecca
+of every pilgrim in search of the sublime and
+beautiful in Nature&mdash;the mountain paradise of the
+West.&rdquo; Yet if the magical softness of shimmering
+wave and wooded isle, the glory of their
+colouring, the ineffable peace which broods over
+hill and vale, tempt the summer visitor to think
+that Paradise could not be fairer, there are dark
+glens, frowning mountains, and sombre passes,
+which but too vividly remind the beholder that
+on earth must the shadow always follow the sunshine,
+the minor note of sadness be heard, that
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>6]</a></span>
+even in this enchanted spot has the war-cry
+many a time been sounded, and men have
+wreaked their fierce passions and poured out their
+blood, and women, stricken to the heart, have
+suffered and died under these tender skies. The
+ruined castles tell their own story.</p>
+
+<p>To analyze the charm of Killarney Vale is
+impossible. It is the very region of romance,
+and one to which fairy legend and ghostly tale
+seem to fit themselves better than do the commonplaces
+of life. There would seem nothing strange
+were the O&rsquo;Donoghue on his white charger seen
+to cleave the wave and emerge on its foam-flecked
+shore, coming we know not whence,
+going we know not where, but real as when he
+trod his native glens, a prince and a ruler among
+men. The unseen world seems very near to
+those who have fallen under the spell of fair
+Killarney.</p>
+
+<p>Part of this charm is doubtless due to the
+wonder of its beauty, the ceaseless contrasts it
+presents. I have seen a theory advanced of late
+years that, as is the land, so are the dwellers
+thereon; that the character of the soil determines
+that of its children; the rivers which they look
+upon, rapid and lawless, or strong and silent; the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>7]</a></span>
+dark forest; the rich fields or the barren plains;
+the mysterious mountain or the gay valley, alike
+influence&mdash;nay, form&mdash;their individuality. There
+is a remarkable passage in the autobiography of
+a very remarkable man&mdash;Stillman (war correspondent
+to the <i>Times</i> in its earlier days), in
+which he speaks of the effect which a few weeks&rsquo;
+sojourn among the then primeval forests on the
+banks of the Hudson produced upon him. Over-wearied
+by brain work, he had shut himself away
+from sight or sound of civilization, from human
+companionship, depending on his gun for food,
+the waters of the spring for drink. He describes
+how gradually the artificialities of life seemed to
+slip from him, and he felt akin with grass and
+tree, with the skies above him, the clouds which
+swept over their surface, the glories of the sun
+by day, the moon and the stars by night. He
+seemed also conscious of a world of spirits, or at
+least beings not of flesh and blood, very close to
+him. Sometimes as he lay at rest upon the
+grass a radiant face looked down on him; once
+or twice a voice spoke. Above all, he felt confident
+he was being guided when external guidance
+was impossible, in black darkness, and when a
+mistake or false step meant death. He believed
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>8]</a></span>
+that senses we have lost revive, and that we grow
+cognisant of a world other than that we habitually
+live in, as, far away from the haunts of men,
+we let Nature speak to us once more.</p>
+
+<p>In many voices has Nature spoken to the
+children of Killarney, weaving something of the
+changeableness, the melancholy, the deep gloom,
+and the overflowing sunshine of their hills and
+vales into the very heart of the people, making
+them what they are for good or ill. To them
+has been given vision of the supernatural region
+as a refuge to the earth-bound spirit from the
+sordid cares of money-getting; and so has a
+world of dreamers, for all their outward gaiety
+and lightheartedness, been created in the kingdom
+of Kerry. Dreamers we call them, but, after all,
+may not Jean Paul Richter&rsquo;s words be prophetic,
+and the dreamers yet awaken from life&rsquo;s uneasy
+sleep to find its dreams alone were true.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="dunloegap" id="dunloegap"></a>
+<img src="images/bik03.jpg" width="600" height="404"
+alt="" />
+<p class="caption">THE GAP OF DUNLOE ON A STORMY DAY.<br />
+The wildness of the Gap is a great contrast to the lake scenery to which it gives access.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The name of Killarney conjures up such
+thoughts. It owes its fame solely to its beauty
+and to the fascination which the character of
+that beauty exercises over the beholder. For it
+is never the same, and every change appeals to
+the imagination. Who that has seen it can
+forget the superb tinting of the foliage which
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>9]</a></span>
+clothes the mountain sides and transforms the
+isles into quivering kaleidoscopes of colour,
+flashing back the light as the waves of a sunlit
+sea. Then a shadow flits from the mountain
+tops, and the hues change as though under the
+spell of a magician hidden among those far-off
+caves, but only to a yet richer combination.
+Gorse and heather, arbutus and fern, show a
+softer radiance, less dazzling, but more sympathetic;
+silvery rills course down the declivities
+which surround the lakes, now visible through
+the trees and giant shrubs, now hidden, but
+always with a murmur of sound like distant notes
+of the fairy music which once, it is said, woke
+the echoes of Killarney. And for those who
+have the hearing ear it may do so still; with
+unbelievers the &ldquo;good people&rdquo; have no intercourse.</p>
+
+<p>There is a supernatural origin ascribed to
+almost everything in Killarney&mdash;to the lakes
+among the rest. These are formed and supplied
+by the numerous minor lakes in the surrounding
+mountains, and by several rivers which flow into
+them, having received on their way the waters
+of innumerable tributary streams, all finding an
+outlet by the rapid river Laune, which bears
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>10]</a></span>
+them to the Atlantic through the beautiful bay
+of Dingle.</p>
+
+<p>But in long-ago days there were no lakes at
+Killarney&mdash;so legend says&mdash;only an extensive
+and inhabited valley, fair and fertile. In this
+was a magic fountain, which supplied water clear
+as crystal, concerning which a tradition existed
+that whoever should displace the stone over the
+well-head would bring destruction to himself
+and to the valley. It was the reckless daring of
+a mortal which caused the fulfilment of this prediction.
+One of the great O&rsquo;Donoghues, to
+prove the falsity of a tradition which he scorned,
+resolved in evil hour to have the stone removed
+to his castle. With fear and trembling his
+subjects, who dared not disobey him, awaited the
+result, all save his favourite jester, who fled to
+the summit of a neighbouring mountain. When
+morning came the jester looked down into the
+valley, and saw nothing but a great expanse of
+water. The valley was flooded in a single night,
+and its inhabitants drowned. It is believed,
+however, that they did not perish, but still exist
+under the lakes, enjoying a happier life than the
+earth one they left, feasting, music, and dancing
+filling the hours.</p>
+
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>11]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2>CHAPTER II<br />
+<span class="smlfont">THE ROAD THROUGH THE GAP: ITS
+MEMORIES AND ITS RUINS</span></h2>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The</span> principal lakes of Killarney are three in
+number&mdash;the Upper Lake is the smallest, but
+often adjudged the most beautiful; it is two miles
+and a half in length by half a mile in breadth,
+the Middle (Torc or Muckross) Lake is two miles
+long by one broad, while Lough Leane (&ldquo;the
+Lake of Learning&rdquo;) is five miles and a half long
+by two miles and a half in breadth.</p>
+
+<p>These lakes are connected by channels, narrow,
+though sufficiently wide to admit of the passing
+of a boat, so in a sense they may be considered
+as one, yet each lake possesses a character peculiar
+to itself and very distinctive.</p>
+
+<p>Killarney is easy of access in these days. In
+less than sixteen hours the tourist may reach it
+from London, via Holyhead, while Queenstown,
+Liverpool and the newer route by Rosslare
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>12]</a></span>
+afford facilities for visitors from every land.
+And once arrived they find all the comforts and
+luxuries of modern civilization in the first class
+hotels, which have sprung up to meet the ever
+increasing need of accommodation; hotels from
+some of which the visitor may view the beauty
+of lake and mountain, the lights and shadows,
+the glory of their colouring, without going
+further afield.</p>
+
+<p>Killarney itself is a small town of which there
+is little to record. Adjoining is the Earl of
+Kenmare&rsquo;s demesne, with its fine gardens and
+splendid golf links; the latter one of the best
+inland courses in Ireland. Visitors can use it on
+payment of a small green fee.</p>
+
+<p>To proceed by land to the far-famed Gap of
+Dunloe, and, traversing it, take the road to the
+Upper Lake, is the general plan followed by the
+stranger, for this best shows a great and varied
+extent of country, with such contrasts of softness
+and grandeur&mdash;nay, desolation&mdash;as no other
+scenery presents.</p>
+
+<p>In this land the past has graven deep its
+records in ruined castle, tower and abbey, each
+with its tale. And the first of these after leaving
+Killarney, is to be found at Aghadoe (in Irish
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>13]</a></span>
+Acadh-da-ca, &ldquo;the field of the two yew trees&rdquo;).
+It is about two miles from Killarney, and a slight
+detour to the right must be made to visit it.</p>
+
+<p>Aghadoe stands on an eminence commanding
+most lovely views of the lakes and mountains.
+It was an ancient bishopric, and here is the ruin
+of its Cathedral church, which consists of two
+chapels of distinct periods of antiquity. They
+lie east and west of each other&mdash;that to the east,
+probably dating from about 1158, is in the
+Pointed style, and dedicated to the Holy Trinity;
+the more ancient, in Hiberno-Romanesque style,
+appears to have been built some centuries before
+the coming of the Normans, and is far richer and
+more beautiful. The western end contains a
+doorway of recessed arches, covered with particularly
+fine mouldings and decorations.</p>
+
+<p>Not far from the western end are the remains
+of what must have been a very fine Round tower,
+judging from the style of its masonry, now, however,
+only about 15 feet in height. Many of its
+stones have been taken away and converted into
+tombstones for neighbouring churchyards, or
+some other need of the mason. The Castle is
+another massive circular fragment of about 30
+feet in height, sometimes called &ldquo;The Bishop&rsquo;s
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>14]</a></span>
+Chair,&rdquo; sometimes &ldquo;The Pulpit,&rdquo; and believed to
+have been the residence of the bishops of the
+diocese.</p>
+
+<p>Following the road to the north side of the
+lake, several fine demesnes are passed, one of
+them, Lakeview House, being the residence of
+Sir Morgan Ross O&rsquo;Connell, Bart., grand-nephew
+of the Liberator. It is a beautiful drive, and
+many a tale of the past will enliven the way, as,
+crossing Beaufort Bridge over the Laune, you
+reach Dunloe Castle at the west end of the lake,
+about seven miles from Killarney town.</p>
+
+<p>Dunloe Castle stands on a height from whence
+the view is glorious. This Castle is the seat of
+the Mahonys, and is very ancient. An old
+history of Kerry mentions that its floors are
+formed of very fine planks of the yew tree, a
+wood which, when well wrought, has a more
+beautiful grain and polish than mahogany. Bees
+have taken up their residence for centuries in
+this old fortress. They are in curious niches and
+angles behind the massive walls and under the
+floors. They disturb no one and refuse to be
+evicted. A bee-keeper tried if he could tempt
+them beyond their bounds by laying &ldquo;sections&rdquo;
+in a place to which they had access, with a hope
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>15]</a></span>
+of securing some of the honey. They took no
+notice. Through a cupboard in one of the walls,
+you can see far back a host of these little people,
+the self-constituted guests of Dunloe Castle, very
+busy over their affairs.</p>
+
+<p>There is a fishing lodge close to Dunloe Castle.
+This is let during the season, and very fine sport
+is to be had. The splendid lake and river fishing
+about Killarney is no small attraction to the
+angler, both being well stocked with the finest
+trout and salmon.</p>
+
+<p>A very remarkable cave near the Gap of
+Dunloe was accidentally discovered in 1838, and
+was then and subsequently explored with much
+interest. Its roof has now fallen in. It was a
+subterranean chamber of circular form, the walls
+of uncemented stones inclining inwards, with a
+roof also of long transverse stones, the angles of
+which are covered with Ogham writing, &ldquo;which
+is to the Irish antiquary what the Runes are in
+the north, the Arrow-headed or Wedge characters
+in Babylonia or Persepolis. Arch&aelig;ological discoveries
+in Ireland are of more general interest
+than formerly, as the earth is laying bare her
+secrets all over the world, and what is discovered
+in one country is found to have its bearing on
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>16]</a></span>
+something brought to light in another.&rdquo; The
+discovery of Ogham characters in this cave was
+additional evidence that the Irish had a literature
+far in advance of the rest of Europe and long
+before the Christian era.</p>
+
+<p>Close to the entrance of the Gap stands Kate
+Kearney&rsquo;s cottage as, whether it contains a
+&ldquo;Kate&rdquo; or not, it will always be called. There
+is many a pretty girl in Kerry whose bright eyes,
+clear colouring and beautiful hair attract the
+passer by, but Kate will be remembered to the
+end of time, because of the few lines which,
+&ldquo;lilting&rdquo; from a poet&rsquo;s heart, conferred upon her
+the crown of immortal youth and beauty:</p>
+
+<div class="poemcenter">
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">&ldquo;From the glance of her eye, shun danger and fly,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">For fatal&rsquo;s the glance of Kate Kearney!&rdquo;<br /></span>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>It is the fashion to depreciate Moore as a poet,
+to compare his lyrics to the notes of a musical-box,
+sweet indeed, but devoid of true inspiration.
+Yet he fulfilled a noble mission in his day,
+rescuing and bringing to light the music of his
+country, wedding it to words that tell its story or
+reveal its beauties instead of the worthless jingle
+which had so often degraded it. It was Moore&rsquo;s
+poetry which greatly helped to make Killarney
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>17]</a></span>
+known early in the last century to many in
+England.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="dunloehead" id="dunloehead"></a>
+<img src="images/bik04.jpg" width="600" height="349"
+alt="" />
+<p class="caption">THE HEAD OF THE GAP OF DUNLOE.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Readers of the literature of that day will know
+what an influence Moore was in its intellectual
+circles&mdash;his wit, his geniality, his singing, &ldquo;the
+effect of which,&rdquo; writes N.&nbsp;P. Willis, who met
+him at Lady Blessington&rsquo;s, &ldquo;is only equalled by
+the beauty of his own words.&rdquo; His voice was
+of small compass, but exquisitely modulated and
+expressing every shade of feeling and sentiment,
+so that women have been known to faint as they
+listened to his singing, which awakened, perhaps,
+a buried sorrow, a long past anguish.</p>
+
+<p>Once enter the Gap of Dunloe and the scene
+utterly changes; gone is the soft verdure, the
+brilliant tinting, silent the song of birds. On
+either side rise huge rocks, of strange, fantastic
+shapes, often appearing half suspended over the
+path, while never far from it rushes the dark Loe,
+&ldquo;a brawling and angry stream,&rdquo; which traverses
+the whole length of the Gap, about four miles,
+often passing along heights, then tumbling into
+depths with rush and roar, now near, now distant,
+but ever voicing the wild emotions which seem
+to lurk amid the gloom of this stern defile. It
+expands into five lakes, called collectively the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>18]</a></span>
+Cummeen Lakes, during its passage through the
+Gap.</p>
+
+<p>Tradition ascribes the origin of this wild pass
+to a stroke from the sword of a mighty giant,
+which separated the mountains and left them
+apart for ever, MacGillicuddy&rsquo;s Reeks on one
+side, Toomies and the Purple Mountain on the
+other. Very stern and grand look the Reeks, one
+of their peaks, Carn-tual (&ldquo;the inverted sickle&rdquo;)
+rising higher than any mountain in Ireland&mdash;3,414
+feet above the level of the sea. There is softer
+beauty on the mountains to the left, the Purple
+Mountain in particular (2,739 feet in height).
+The lovely hue which pervades this mountain is
+generally ascribed to a purple heath, which
+covers its sides, almost to the top, with perpetual
+bloom. Its name, however, was originally derived
+from an immense pile of loose stones and
+slates of a purple tint, which becomes intense
+when the sun shines upon them.</p>
+
+<p>It is from the Gap of Dunloe that the Purple
+Mountain should be ascended; it is not a formidable
+climb, but ponies await those who fear the
+fatigue. The view from the summit is magnificent.</p>
+
+<p>The western base of this mountain descends
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>19]</a></span>
+into Augher Lake, and close to this spot is the
+Woodwork Factory, where carved specimens of
+arbutus and other woods can be obtained in
+inlaid tables, chess and backgammon sets, card
+cases, etc.</p>
+
+<p>Chess is believed to have been played in prehistoric
+times by the ancient Irish, and the
+frequent mention of the game long before the
+Norman invasion shows it was a favourite one.
+&ldquo;The chess board was called in Irish &lsquo;fithcheall,&rsquo;
+and is described in the <i>Glossary</i> of Cormac of
+Cashel, composed towards the close of the ninth
+century, as quadrangular in shape, and having
+straight spots of black and white. Some of these
+were inlaid with gold and silver and adorned
+with gems. No entire set of the ancient men is
+now known to exist, though frequent mention is
+made of the brigade or family of chessmen in
+many old manuscripts. Kings of bone, seated in
+sculptured chairs, about 2 inches in height, have
+been found, and specimens of them engraved in
+recent antiquarian publications&rdquo; (D&rsquo;Arcy Magee&rsquo;s
+<i>History of Ireland</i>).</p>
+
+<p>The most striking part of the Gap is where
+the valley contracts so as to bring the precipitous
+sides very close together. The peasants have
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>20]</a></span>
+named this the Pike, and to the grotesquely
+formed rocks along the pass they have also given
+names&mdash;the Turnpike, O&rsquo;Donoghue&rsquo;s Heart, and
+so on. The impression conveyed as you proceed,
+is of gloom and of a certain aloofness from the
+ordinary. The eagle soaring above is no uncommon
+sight.</p>
+
+<p>A little distance from the Pike is a lonely tarn
+called the Black Lake (Loch Dubh), where St.
+Patrick imprisoned the last Irish snake, which is
+supposed to live in its depths. A little south of
+the Pass the spot is pointed out where the last
+Irish wolf was slain.</p>
+
+<p>There is a stamp of wild force in all that
+meets the eye while traversing the Gap, which
+is not diminished as at Gap Cottage the end is
+neared. At its commencement cars have had to
+be abandoned. You must ride or walk. If you
+have elected to walk you will probably now be
+footsore and weary. Even the sure-footed ponies
+generally used may not prevent fatigue from the
+rough, precipitous road, but it is forgotten when,
+on leaving the Gap, a turn in the path brings in
+view one of the most famous glens of Killarney&mdash;the
+Black Valley. This was formerly described
+as so black, so desolate, that it might have been
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>21]</a></span>
+named the Valley of the Shadow of Death. It
+owes this reputation merely to its English name&mdash;a
+mistranslation from the Irish one&mdash;Cumin
+Dubh (O&rsquo;Duff&rsquo;s Valley). No one knows who
+this O&rsquo;Duff was, however, and the Black Valley
+is a more romantic name for a singularly wild
+and beautiful scene.</p>
+
+<p>The path now inclines to the left, bringing in
+view the Upper Lake, its waters glowing like
+burnished gold, if, as often happens, it approaches
+the sunset hour when you reach it. How lovely
+it looks, guarded on every side by those great
+mountains which hold so many secrets!</p>
+
+<p>Not without a passing regret do we leave the
+Gap. It has its own charm, arousing wonder
+and curiosity and a certain awe. One really feels
+when the Pike is reached as though there was
+nothing strange in its having emanated from the
+giant&rsquo;s sword.</p>
+
+<p>The scene surveyed from here is very beautiful,
+and tempts delay, but the Upper Lake must be
+reached. By the side of the hill you descend is
+the Logan stone, or &ldquo;balanced rock,&rdquo; long considered
+a wonder of Druidical times. Some affirm
+now that its rocking motion is from natural
+causes, but, set as it is on the lonely hill, it looks
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>22]</a></span>
+as if it well might have been fashioned by those
+stern old heathen.</p>
+
+<p>Still descending, the road takes a sharp backward
+curve to the foot of Fubrahy&rsquo;s Crags; then,
+turning again, it continues till, after crossing a
+bridge, it passes through an opening in the wall
+into Gurmaheen Demesne, within which are
+tea and waiting rooms, called &ldquo;Lord Brandon&rsquo;s
+Cottage.&rdquo; From thence a short path descends
+to the Upper Lake, where in some sheltered bay
+your boat awaits you.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="eaglesnest" id="eaglesnest"></a>
+<img src="images/bik05.jpg" width="600" height="400"
+alt="" />
+<p class="caption">{THE EAGLE&rsquo;S NEST, KILLARNEY.}</p>
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>23]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2>CHAPTER III<br />
+<span class="smlfont">THE LAKES AND THE MOUNTAINS</span></h2>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">No</span> one has ever realized the enchantment of
+Killarney or fallen under its spell who has not
+been upon its waters. As the boat glides into
+the Upper Lake, all that has ever been said of
+its varied beauty seems poor compared to the
+reality. The mountains which surround it on
+every side give indescribable grandeur to its
+scenery&mdash;so much so that, added to the contrasted
+beauty of its wooded isles, it is on the
+whole conceded that it bears the golden apple
+from its sister lakes; certainly, as the boatmen
+row from point to point, you say so, and
+memory, bringing back the vision in after days&mdash;perhaps
+in the hot and dusty thoroughfare&mdash;confirms
+the verdict.</p>
+
+<p>The Upper Lake contains twelve small islands,
+some of them of such a height that at a distance
+they resemble so many lofty towers standing in
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>24]</a></span>
+the waters, their summits crowned with bright
+green wreaths of the arbutus and many another
+verdant shrub and tree. In other aspects they
+appear to represent the ruins of stately palaces.
+To add to this effect, their edges are so much
+worn by the dashing of water against them, and
+by rains washing away the earth, and &ldquo;time
+hath so disjointed these marble rocks,&rdquo; that
+some hang in such curious fashion as to represent
+a rude architectural formation.</p>
+
+<p>The extraordinary verdure, not only of the
+isles, but of the mountains, is even more striking
+viewed from these lonely waters than where man
+has left more perceptible trace of his presence.
+It seems incredible that giant fern, tree-shrubs,
+and plants should flourish in tropical profusion
+at the great heights to which they attain, and
+without the artificial aid which is impossible.</p>
+
+<p>This wonderful foliage is the glory of all the
+islands, but here it throws into intense relief the
+sublimity inseparable from great mountain
+scenery, and even in point of height the MacGillicuddy&rsquo;s
+Reeks can claim greatness. More than
+a hundred years ago Holmes, in his <i>Tour in
+Ireland</i>, records his first glimpse of the noble
+range: &ldquo;Their peaks immersed in mist and
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>25]</a></span>
+storms, along their prodigious furrows the
+cataracts, swollen by recent rains, tumbling with
+fury and glistening like liquid silver; in a little
+time the peaks piercing through the clouds, the
+grey mists slow descending like a great curtain,
+through which the sun darted his rays.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="mangerton" id="mangerton"></a>
+<img src="images/bik06.jpg" width="600" height="350"
+alt="" />
+<p class="caption">AT THE FOOT OF MANGERTON MOUNTAIN, KILLARNEY.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The Purple Mountain, always beautiful and
+changeful in aspect as the lakes themselves, looks
+down from the north, while on the other side
+rises Torc&rsquo;s noble outline, and further off great
+Mangerton.</p>
+
+<p>Many of the mountains are densely wooded to
+a great height&mdash;giant ferns, the rowan, holly,
+yew, juniper. Above all the arbutus grow in a
+tangle of profusion, and on rocks where no earth
+appears. How the steep rocks and crags can
+give root-hold to this forestry of green is a marvel
+to the beholder, the roots being simply filaments
+entwining themselves round crevices in the stone,
+holding on with a grim tenacity which defies the
+wildest storm&mdash;better even than the forest tree.
+The birds of the air have dropped their seeds, or
+the winds carried them to this their home, and
+they will not let it go. Here will they stay as
+long, perchance, as the rocks themselves.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;I expected the loveliness I met,&rdquo; said an
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>26]</a></span>
+English visitor to Killarney lately, &ldquo;and I believe
+the strongest impression made on me was by
+those beautiful tropical shrubs in mid-air, as they
+seemed, and with no apparent hold on the
+soil.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>The arbutus is supposed by some to have
+come from Spain and to have been cultivated in
+the first instance by the early monks; but the
+more general belief is that it was indigenous.
+It is not to be found of spontaneous growth
+nearer to Ireland than the very south of France
+and Italy, and only as a shrub, while about the
+lakes and mountains here it often becomes a large
+and tall tree. Pliny mentions it as extraordinary
+that it should thus grow in Arabia, and Petra
+Bellonus also observes this as occurring on Mount
+Athos in Macedonia. But it seems to love its
+Irish home best, and to revel in the luxuriant
+growth which makes it so noticeable in Killarney&rsquo;s
+leafy forests.</p>
+
+<p>The blossoms of the arbutus grow in clusters
+of white bells, not unlike those of the lily of the
+valley, in great abundance, and nestling under
+bunches of bright green leaves. It has, at the
+same time, ripe and green fruit on its branches,
+first a deep pale yellow, deepening, as it advances
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>27]</a></span>
+to ripeness, then a brilliant scarlet like that of a
+strawberry. Autumn and winter are the seasons
+of its greatest bloom and beauty.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="punchbowl" id="punchbowl"></a>
+<img src="images/bik07.jpg" width="600" height="467"
+alt="" />
+<p class="caption">O&rsquo;SULLIVAN&rsquo;S PUNCHBOWL, KILLARNEY.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>A most beautiful cascade at the western end of
+the lake tumbles down the mountain side and
+empties itself in a dazzling sheet of foam into its
+waters. The music of its fall seems very close as
+the boat passes the various isles, and you are told
+the legends connected with them. One in particular,
+MacCarthy&rsquo;s Island, is pointed out as the
+last refuge of one of the great family. We will
+find other memories of this powerful sept in
+many a local tradition. Here a battle was
+fought, a fort taken or lost, triumph or defeat,
+and then you are pointed to a grave&mdash;the end of
+it all!</p>
+
+<p>But on the Upper Lake it is hard to think of
+anything but the lovely, lonely scenery&mdash;lonelier
+because of the everlasting hills which compass it
+around.</p>
+
+<p>Eagle Island was once the haunt of these royal
+birds, and still the golden eagle has not forsaken
+it, though less seldom seen. Ronayne Island is
+named after one who lived there, apart from his
+fellow-men, in self-chosen solitude. At each
+point there is something to relate, while every
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>28]</a></span>
+turn produces a change in outline or colour so as
+almost to form a fresh scene. Many a lovely
+little bay and channel are explored, till too soon
+the boat passes the last islet, enters the last bay,
+rounds the last promontory.</p>
+
+<p>A very narrow part of the passage occurs here
+where this promontory juts out, leaving a breadth
+of only about thirty feet. It is called Coleman&rsquo;s
+Eye. Some legendary person is said to have
+leaped across the stream here, leaving his footprints
+on the rock beyond.</p>
+
+<p>And now, with long look and reluctant farewell,
+we are on the Long Range, the river connecting
+the Upper with its sister lakes.</p>
+
+<p>In Holmes&rsquo; <i>Tour</i> he thus characterizes the
+Long Range: &ldquo;I should distinguish the Upper
+Lake as being the most sublime, the Lower the
+most beautiful, and Muckross Lake the most
+picturesque, the winding passage leading to the
+Upper containing a surprising combination of the
+three, probably not to be exceeded by any spot in
+the world.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>The Long Range is about two miles in length.
+Its margins are gemmed with water-lilies, snowy
+and golden. Here the <i>Osmunda regalia</i> is seen
+growing almost in forests, and of great size, its
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>29]</a></span>
+branches, as well as those of the alder, birch,
+yew, arbutus, and many another, entwining as if
+they grew from a common root. Other rare
+ferns, some peculiar to Kerry, as the Brutle fern
+(<i>Trichomanes speciosum</i>), completely clothe the
+wild crags on either side. But it is hopeless to
+attempt specifying the variety of foliage, the
+different shades of green, the masses of heather
+and gorse, which in all stages of their bloom,
+their first spring glory, or the no less lovely
+golden and brown tints of autumn, make the
+most rugged mountain sides beautiful. And let
+not the little &ldquo;bog down&rdquo; be forgotten which
+around Killarney makes the bogs resemble waving
+fields of snow. &ldquo;Light of love&rdquo; the peasant girls
+call this bog rush, for a breath sends its down
+floating lightly away. A little white tuft of
+silky cotton, from its shortness of no practical
+use in the work-a-day world, so it lives its life
+unharmed, gay as the bog-land dwellers themselves.</p>
+
+<p>Very wild and grand is the scenery here.
+Rocks in a hundred forms appear as the banks
+are passed, and behind, at nearer or further distance,
+rise the greater mountain heights.</p>
+
+<p>The boat passes several islets, named from
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>30]</a></span>
+resemblance, real or imaginary, The Jolly Boat,
+The Cannon Rock, The Man-of-War Rock&mdash;a
+mass like a vessel, keel uppermost. Soon the
+far-famed Eagle&rsquo;s Nest is reached, a rugged, precipitous
+cliff 1,700 feet high. Here the eagles
+still have their nest, for Nature has secured them
+from the hand of man. It is a very majestic
+rock, thickly clothed with evergreens nearly to
+the summit, where, however, heath and a few
+scattered shrubs hide the nest, and show the
+great outline, the rugged mass, in stern sublimity.
+Here the Killarney Echo is best heard.</p>
+
+<p>Perhaps among the many writers who have
+tried to describe the effect produced by this echo,
+Mrs. Hall gives the most vivid impression.
+She says: &ldquo;The bugler first played a single
+note; it was caught up and repeated loudly;
+softly, again loudly; again softly, and then as if
+by a hundred instruments rolling around and
+above the mountains, and dying softly away.
+Then a few notes were blown, a multitude of
+voices replied, sometimes pausing, then mingling
+in a strain of sublime grandeur and delicate
+sweetness. Then came the firing of a cannon,
+when every mountain around seemed instinct with
+angry life, and replied in voices of thunder, the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>31]</a></span>
+sound being multiplied a thousandfold, first a
+terrific growl, then a fearful crash, both caught
+up and returned by the surrounding hills, while
+those nearest became silent, awaiting the oncoming
+of those that were distant, then dropping to
+a gentle lull, as if the winds only created them,
+then breaking forth again into a combined and
+terrific roar.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="muckrosslake" id="muckrosslake"></a>
+<img src="images/bik08.jpg" width="600" height="324"
+alt="" />
+<p class="caption">MUCKROSS LAKE AND GLENA MOUNTAIN FROM TORC COTTAGE&mdash;EARLY MORNING.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Soon after passing Eagle&rsquo;s Nest the end of the
+Long Range is reached, and the stream divides,
+skirting round Dinish Island into Lough Leane
+on the left side, to the right passing under Old
+Weir Bridge into Muckross Lake.</p>
+
+<p>The Old Weir Bridge consists of two arches;
+only one affords a passage for boats, and as the
+water of the Upper Lake rushes into Muckross
+Lake on its way to the sea through the Laune,
+the current is extremely rapid, and it is quite
+usual for tourists to disembark and walk, meeting
+the boat on the other side. Those with strong
+nerves, however, enjoy &ldquo;shooting the rapids.&rdquo;
+You then find yourself in Torc (or Muckross)
+Lake, and opposite Dinish Island, on which is a
+pretty cottage, where it is usual to halt for rest
+and refreshment. The chief feature of the latter
+is salmon, broiled in cutlets on a fire made of
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>32]</a></span>
+arbutus, the slices skewered on a spray of the
+same, which is said to impart a delicious flavour
+to the fish.</p>
+
+<p>There are so many objects of interest clustered
+around the Lakes that it is vain trying to compress
+them into the description of a day&rsquo;s excursion.
+When time is an object, the tourist can
+manage to &ldquo;do&rdquo; the whole three lakes, but if
+time permits, the point we have now reached
+should be the limit of his first day, and a row
+home over the lovely waters of Lough Leane to
+Ross Island is a fitting close to it. The grand
+old Castle never looks so picturesque as in the
+evening glow; let it be his last memory of the
+day.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="muckross" id="muckross"></a>
+<img src="images/bik09.jpg" width="600" height="348"
+alt="" />
+<p class="caption">MUCKROSS, KILLARNEY.<br />
+From above Torc Waterfall, showing the upper and lower lakes with the peninsula which divides them.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>33]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2>CHAPTER IV<br />
+<span class="smlfont">MUCKROSS</span></h2>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Nothing</span> more beautiful than the scene viewed
+from Muckross (&ldquo;the place of wild swine&rdquo;) can
+be imagined. Its woods and lawns form a large
+promontory, shooting far into the lake, which
+the wooded isles beyond seem almost to join,
+the water breaking and glancing between like
+tiny bays. Muckross Abbey Mansion stands in
+lovely grounds, which, fringing the slope to the
+water&rsquo;s edge, form a beautiful shore to the
+lake.</p>
+
+<p>The scene which this point commands is
+unrivalled&mdash;indeed, Torc lake (Torc, a wild
+boar) need fear no comparison. Toomies and
+Glena are opposite, so softly outlined by the
+beautiful waving forests which cling to their
+sides that their magnificent height is half forgotten.
+In contrast the hills which rise above
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>34]</a></span>
+the Eagle&rsquo;s Nest are bare, broken, almost
+savage.</p>
+
+<p>But if it is hard to convey by words an idea of
+scenery in general, more difficult is it with that
+of Killarney, so varied are the effects produced
+under its changeful skies,</p>
+
+<div class="poemcenter">
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">&ldquo;Shining through sorrow&rsquo;s beam,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Saddening through sorrow&rsquo;s gleam.&rdquo;<br /></span>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Mr. Young, our English visitor of long ago,
+notices this much. In one place he observes:
+&ldquo;Torc was obscured by the sun shining immediately
+above him, and, casting a stream of
+burning light on the water, displayed an effect
+to describe which the pencil of a Claude alone
+would be equal.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>The ruined Abbey of Muckross stands in the
+grounds of Muckross demesne, and was founded
+by a MacCarthy Mor in 1340, according to the
+<i>Annals of the Four Masters</i>, upon the site of a
+much older church, which was destroyed by fire.
+It was built for Conventual Franciscans, and was
+dedicated to the Holy Trinity. The original
+name was Irrelagh.</p>
+
+<p>The two principal parts of the ruin are the
+convent and the church, the latter about 100
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>35]</a></span>
+feet in length and 24 feet in breadth, the steeple
+standing between the nave and chancel, resting
+on four high and slender pointed arches.</p>
+
+<p>The cloisters are in a very perfect state, consisting
+of a beautiful quadrangle of marble arches,
+some pointed, some with semicircular heads,
+enclosing a square, in the centre of which stands
+the great yew-tree, said to be as old as the Abbey
+itself. It rises to the height of 60 feet, its
+spreading branches overshadowing the cloisters
+and forming a canopy, impervious to the sun.
+The circumference of its trunk is 13 feet, and it
+is regarded with much awe because of a belief
+that anyone attempting to pluck a leaf or branch,
+or in any way injure this yew, will not be alive
+on that day twelve months.</p>
+
+<p>The principal entrance is by a handsome
+Pointed doorway, from which is seen the great
+eastern window, with its simple, beautiful tracery.
+The space within is filled with tombs, many of
+them nameless. A large modern one in the
+centre of the choir covers a vault, where in
+ancient times were interred the MacCarthys,
+and, more lately, the O&rsquo;Donoghues.</p>
+
+<p>Close to this tomb is the slab which formerly
+covered the vault, without inscription, but bearing
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>36]</a></span>
+the arms of the Earl of Clancarty of the
+old creation, this title and that of Viscount
+Valentia being bestowed by Queen Elizabeth in
+1565 on Donald MacCarthy Mor, the head of
+the elder branch of that great family. His
+haughty followers would none of it, and slighted
+the chieftain who had condescended, however
+grudgingly, to accept an honour at the hands of
+the Sassenach.</p>
+
+<p>The dormitories, cellars, kitchens, refectories,
+etc., are in good preservation, but the upper
+rooms are unroofed. There is a great fireplace
+in the refectory, where once the monks kept good
+cheer. Very silent and deserted it is now, with
+the innumerable graves around.</p>
+
+<p>The great Torc Cascade empties itself into
+Muckross Lake a little more than a mile from
+the Abbey. It comes from the Devil&rsquo;s Punch
+Bowl, which it is worth ascending Mangerton to
+see. On the western side of the mountain is a
+small circular lake, about 600 yards in diameter
+across the top. From the brink, as you look
+downwards, there is a depth of nearly 300 yards.
+This is the Devil&rsquo;s Punch Bowl. On the side
+next Muckross there is an immense perpendicular
+chasm, equal in depth to the height of the sides
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>37]</a></span>
+of the Bowl, into which its overflowings rush
+and are conveyed through a narrow channel,
+called the Devil&rsquo;s Stream, to the shore of Muckross
+Lake, tumbling down the sides of the hill,
+nearly 200 feet, in a great cascade.</p>
+
+<p>In the peninsula of Muckross is a mine, now
+disused, which, when worked by an English
+company in 1804, gave a large output of the
+finest copper ore.</p>
+
+<p>There are many indications of mineral treasures
+yet to be discovered among the hills and glens of
+Killarney. When Dr. Berkeley was asked his
+opinion of Muckross at a time when Art was
+considered far superior to Nature, he replied:
+&ldquo;The French monarch might possibly be able
+to create another Versailles, but could not, with
+all his revenues, lay out another Muckross.&rdquo;</p>
+
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>38]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2>CHAPTER V<br />
+<span class="smlfont">ROSS, INNISFALLEN, AND THE LOWER LAKE</span></h2>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Ross</span> is only separated from the mainland by a
+narrow cut through a morass, which gives it
+its claim to be an island.</p>
+
+<p>This division is probably artificial, and made
+in former days to strengthen the fortifications of
+the Castle. A carriage road from the town of
+Killarney crosses the small connecting bridge
+and brings the tourist under the walls of Ross
+Castle, where there is a landing-place for those
+who come by water.</p>
+
+<p>Ross Castle is still a splendid old fortress, far
+less injured by time or mischance than most of
+its contemporaries in Kerry. A tall and stately
+building, it is seen from far, dominating Lough
+Leane and adding additional charm to the view,
+with its massive buttresses and battlements,
+reminders of the old fighting days. It is but a
+short distance between Ross and Muckross, yet
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>39]</a></span>
+the character of the scene is utterly changed.
+Say what we will of the other lakes, Lough
+Leane remains the lake of enchantment.</p>
+
+<p>Ross is a very ancient Castle, built by some far-back
+O&rsquo;Donoghue, the precise date unknown.
+Within is a spiral staircase of stone mounting to
+the top, from whence a marvellous panorama lies
+before you.</p>
+
+<p>In 1652 Ross Castle was held by Lord Muskerry
+for the King, during the Parliamentary
+wars, against General Ludlow. It was well
+garrisoned and provisioned, and the defenders
+were prepared vigorously to repel the foe, yet
+they surrendered almost at once. There was an
+old prophecy that Ross Castle would never be
+taken till warships were seen on the lake, and
+when the garrison beheld the boats which
+General Ludlow had built and conveyed overland
+approaching to attack, they yielded. The
+prophecy was fulfilled: it was useless to fight
+against fate. But it is more to legendary than
+historical lore that Ross Castle owes the fascination
+which surrounds it.</p>
+
+<p>The guides of Killarney deserve mention here,
+for they add to the enjoyment of the various
+excursions, knowing every legend, each association,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>40]</a></span>
+the origin of every name, and are even
+capable of inventing on the spur of the moment
+romances the most picturesque, wonders the most
+thrilling, discerning at a glance on whom to
+expend their powers of imagination. &ldquo;All sorts
+and conditions of men&rdquo; come under their ken.
+In the tourist season scarce a land but has its
+representative, to some of whom Ireland was a
+sealed page till they listened to the tales of
+Killarney from her guides.</p>
+
+<p>Here they point to you the very window from
+which the great O&rsquo;Donoghue leaped into the
+lake below. There he reigns in the regions of
+enchantment, greater and happier than in his
+earthly sovereignty. Once in every seven years
+on a May morning, before the first beams of the
+sun have arisen over the mountain tops, the
+sweetest strains of fairy music are heard, and the
+great chieftain may be seen on a splendid snow-white
+charger, shod with silver shoes, riding over
+the lake, preceded by a joyous band of youths
+and maidens scattering flowers before him. Well
+it is for the mortal who sees him; prosperity
+will follow from that day forth.</p>
+
+<p>Just, generous, and greatly beloved were the
+O&rsquo;Donoghues of Ross, and their memory is
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>41]</a></span>
+perpetuated among a people who do not easily
+forget. Wander where you will, you find some
+association with the name, particularly among
+rock and crag on the Lower Lake, of which
+O&rsquo;Donoghue&rsquo;s Horse is the most remarkable.
+This rock has been fretted and worn away by
+the action of the waters into a curious semblance
+of a horse in the act of drinking. Then there is
+O&rsquo;Donoghue&rsquo;s prison, his table, his pulpit&mdash;each
+with its story.</p>
+
+<p>You will be told, too, how at the deepest part
+of this lake, more than 60 fathoms down, at a
+spot between Ross and Innisfallen, a great carbuncle
+may be seen, which on a dark night lights
+up the rocks at the bottom of the lake, and
+shows the palaces and towers of the ancient city
+which the waters now cover.</p>
+
+<p>Ross is the largest island on the lake. It
+contains about 80 acres. On the southern point
+is a famous copper mine, opened in 1804 by
+Colonel Hall, who found clear proof that it had
+been worked at a very remote period. Rude
+stone hammers of very ancient make were discovered&mdash;Danes&rsquo;
+hammers, the people call them&mdash;and
+the traces of fire were found. The vein,
+however, gave out after four years, during which
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>42]</a></span>
+time, says Crofton Croker, &ldquo;nearly &pound;60,000
+worth of ore was disposed of at Swansea, some
+cargoes producing &pound;40 per ton.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>The country round the lakes is very rich in ores
+of various kinds. Lead ore has been discovered,
+and the mountains abound with iron. Specimens
+of ore which contain tin are also found.</p>
+
+<p>Killarney has treasures, however, which better
+suit the witchery of her beauty. Pearls are
+found in Lough Leane, and still more often in
+the River Laune, which runs out of it. These
+are, of course, very inferior to the Oriental jewel,
+but now and again a fine specimen is obtained.
+&ldquo;A little Kerry pearle&rdquo; was not considered an
+unworthy present to a great man in 1756; also
+&ldquo;a dozen Kerry stones,&rdquo; these probably being
+the beautiful amethysts found in the cliffs near
+Kerry Head. These have always been valued.
+A set of ear-rings, a necklace, and other ornaments
+composed of these amethysts were presented
+to Queen Caroline (wife of George II.)
+by the Countess of Kerry, and most graciously
+received. A like gracious reception was given
+to an Irish pearl presented by the Bishop of
+Limerick to the great Anselm, Archbishop of
+Canterbury in 1074.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="innisfallen" id="innisfallen"></a>
+<img src="images/bik10.jpg" width="600" height="394"
+alt="" />
+<p class="caption">THE ISLAND OF INNISFALLEN.<br />
+In the lower lake of Killarney. It once possessed a monastery where the &ldquo;Annals of Innisfallen,&rdquo; now at the Bodleian, were written.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>43]</a></span>
+Very brilliant are the &ldquo;Kerry diamonds,&rdquo; and
+very pretty, but valueless save to the children
+who pick them up, and perhaps to that fairy
+world whose standards are not the sordid ones of
+mortals. To them these lovely crystals, whether
+clear or coloured, may be the true treasure.</p>
+
+<p>Beautiful Innisfallen, with hill and glen, creek
+and harbour, and cliffs overhung by trees shading
+the many bays. The Gem of Killarney it is
+called. &ldquo;Not heaven&rsquo;s reflex, but a bit fallen out
+of heaven itself,&rdquo; were Macaulay&rsquo;s words, and
+they express the feeling called forth by its rich
+verdure, its wonders of foliage and of colour, the
+ineffable beauty which clothes it as a mantle. Yet
+so great are its contrasts that in this island of 24
+acres are woods as gloomy as the ancient Druidical
+forests, thick with giant ash and enormous hollies.</p>
+
+<p>As you approach the island you seem to draw
+near such a forest, so close are these great trees,
+extending into the water. On landing, you find
+they encircle a lawn of the deepest and most vivid
+green. Open glades through the trees give
+enchanting vistas&mdash;the lofty peaks of Toomies
+and Glena, the misty summits of the Purple
+Mountain, Ross Castle and its wooded shores,
+sunny islands and sparkling waters, sometimes so
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>44]</a></span>
+still as to reflect the woods and mountains as in a
+mirror. In the morning hour the mountains
+bordering on the Lower Lake are left in shadow,
+but as the day goes on the sun glides imperceptibly
+along the line of the great chain, and
+darts his rays on that side of the mountains
+which lies next to the lake. All their bold
+irregularities are then revealed&mdash;their protruding
+rocks, their deep glens, and the lake is illuminated
+amid its dark and wooded isles by the long
+gleams which pass athwart its waves.</p>
+
+<p>At such hours it looks too fair a world for sin
+and sorrow, but yonder stands the Castle, with
+ruined battlements and many a grim sign of the
+stormy past, while fair Innisfallen itself contains
+a ruin where once holy men maintained a warfare
+equally deadly against the powers of evil, though
+fought with no mortal weapons.</p>
+
+<p>Little remains of the Abbey of Innisfallen,
+founded in the sixth century by St. Finian.
+Even the walls are levelled save for the remains
+of an oratory, whose western gable contains a
+doorway with rich decorations. This monastery,
+however decayed, will always be famous, because
+the <i>Annals of Innisfallen</i> were written here.</p>
+
+<p>The original work is in the Bodleian Library.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>45]</a></span>
+It is on parchment and in medium quarto, and
+contains fifty-seven leaves. Extracts from the
+Old Testament and a history of the ancient world
+down to the arrival of St. Patrick in Ireland in
+432 form the earlier part. From this period it
+deals exclusively with the affairs of Ireland,
+terminating with 1319. It seems to have been
+the production of two monks, one carrying it to
+1216, the other continuing it to 1320. It is one
+of the earliest of Irish histories, and considered by
+savants as taking high rank among them.</p>
+
+<p>In 1100 the Abbey was plundered by Mildwin
+O&rsquo;Donoghue of a great treasure of gold, silver,
+and rich goods of the adjacent country, which had
+been deposited there as secure sanctuary. Many
+of the clergy were slain by the MacCarthys,
+&ldquo;But,&rdquo; writes the monk, &ldquo;God soon punished this
+act of sacrilege and impiety by bringing many of
+its authors to an untimely end.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>Well, there is peace now in fair Innisfallen.
+The visitor bears away its impress with the
+memory of one of the fairest spots on earth.</p>
+
+<div class="poemcenter">
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">&ldquo;Sweet Innisfallen, fare thee well,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">May calm and sunshine still be thine;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">How fair thou art let others tell,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">To feel how fair yet still be mine.&rdquo;<br /></span>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>46]</a></span>
+Glena, the &ldquo;glen of good fortune,&rdquo; is one of
+the most eagerly sought out beauty spots of
+Killarney. Glena Bay is the first part of the
+Lower Lake if it is entered from the Long
+Range, but by whatever way you reach it the
+picture which meets the eye is unsurpassed.</p>
+
+<p>The mountains of Glena and Toomies are
+densely wooded to their base, the trees hanging
+over their sides and coming down in rich luxuriance
+to the water&rsquo;s edge. A very forest of the
+finest arbutus, with berry and blossom together in
+autumn, with oak, ash, pine, birch and alder,
+white thorn, yew, and holly, it must be seen to
+realize the colour effect or the matchless tintings
+of gorse and heather, a great mosaic quivering in
+the sunshine. The varieties of this immense
+scenery of forest are impossible to describe, the
+woods extending about six miles in length, and
+from half a mile to a mile and a half in breadth,
+while the inequalities of the ground produce
+wondrous effects of light and shadow.</p>
+
+<p>Glena is all soft loveliness, but rugged rock
+and crag, and the stern grandeur of Torc Mountain
+on the other side, strike again that minor
+chord never far from Killarney&rsquo;s brightest
+scenes.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="cottage" id="cottage"></a>
+<img src="images/bik11.jpg" width="600" height="442"
+alt="" />
+<p class="caption">IN A TYPICAL COTTAGE.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>47]</a></span>
+Lough Leane has upwards of thirty isles, large
+and small, and as the boat is rowed past Glena
+shore you see them in all their varied form and
+colour, from Ross to tiny Mouse Island. It is a
+fair sight. There is a little bay at the foot of
+the Toomies where you can land to reach
+O&rsquo;Sullivan&rsquo;s Cascade, one of the greatest of the
+Killarney waterfalls, not only from its size, but
+from the peculiar formation of the bed down
+which it dashes. It really consists of three falls.
+&ldquo;The uppermost, passing over a bridge of rocks,
+falls about 20 feet perpendicularly into a natural
+basin; then, bursting between two hanging rocks,
+the torrent hastens down a second precipice into
+a second receptacle, from which it rolls over into
+the lowest chamber of the fall. It is about
+70 feet high. The roar of the descending water
+can be heard from afar, and is almost deafening
+when near. Beneath a projecting rock overhanging
+the lowest basin is a grotto, with a
+seat rudely cut in the rock. From this little
+grotto the view of the cascade is peculiarly
+beautiful. It appears a continued flight of three
+foamy stories. The recess is overshadowed by
+an arch of foliage so thick as to interrupt the
+admission of light.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>48]</a></span>
+The forest about Toomies is still the haunt of
+the old red deer of Ireland, and a grand stag hunt
+is occasionally organized, the cries of the hounds,
+the shouting of the hunters, the firing of the
+signalling cannon, combining to awake the
+mountain echoes for many miles around. It is a
+cruel sport, though the stag is now, as a rule,
+saved from death. Yet its gallant attempts to
+save itself, its struggles to get free from the
+cordon of enemies around, its agonies of terror as,
+bounding for refuge to the heights, it is confronted
+by shouting men, and turned to confront
+the savage pack, are cruel enough. It leaps from
+rock to rock and chasm to chasm with sobbing
+breath and big tears, and plunges into the lake
+in desperation, to be met by the boats watching
+for it. Of late years it is set free, but it is not
+sentimentality to imagine that the grim experience
+it has passed through will render the life given to
+it a thing of terror, haunted by the bay of the
+hounds and the shouts of the hunters.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="mountainhomes" id="mountainhomes"></a>
+<img src="images/bik12.jpg" width="600" height="348"
+alt="" />
+<p class="caption">MOUNTAIN HOMES OF THE KILLARNEY DISTRICT.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>49]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2>CHAPTER VI<br />
+<span class="smlfont">THE KILLARNEY FOLK</span></h2>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The</span> people who dwell on the shores of these
+lovely lakes are a handsome race, tall and finely
+formed, with clear-cut features and dark and
+most expressive eyes, often of the Irish grey or
+deep violet, with long black lashes. Pencilled
+eyebrows and abundance of dark-brown hair
+usually accompany these, and that clear complexion
+which the moist western breezes confer.
+They love music and dancing, the &ldquo;boys and
+girls,&rdquo; who, meeting on a roadside, only require
+a merry tune to &ldquo;foot it away&rdquo; and forget their
+cares.</p>
+
+<p>But with all their lightheartedness their
+standard of duty is very high, and family ties are
+sacred. Seldom, if ever, is infidelity known
+among the married, and a certain honour is given
+to the head of the poorest household. Husband
+and wife each has a distinct place, which neither
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>50]</a></span>
+would dream of usurping, the husband having
+the chief, of course. In one case, however, and
+that a very important one to an Irishman, right
+of precedence is universally granted to the wife.
+This is when it happens that she is by birth of a
+superior tribe to her husband. &ldquo;I am a MacCarthy;
+my husband is only a so-and-so,&rdquo; she will say
+proudly.</p>
+
+<p>There are many &ldquo;shealings&rdquo; around and on
+the sides of the mountains, where the &ldquo;mountainy
+men,&rdquo; as they are called, cultivate patches
+of land with a success due to their patient
+industry. They have hens, a few goats, and
+perhaps some lean mountain sheep, and all these
+are liable to visitations from the eagles when
+rearing their young. Often, too, they have one
+or two cows of the Kerry breed, which find
+sweet pickings among the rocks, and give more
+milk on the scant herbage than the sleek and
+well-favoured kine of richer counties. This
+breed is small, with long horns and wild, handsome
+heads.</p>
+
+<p>Simple-hearted, generous and faithful are
+these men and women, with a dignified courtesy
+of manner which tells of the Eastern strain in
+their blood. Their courtesy and good manners
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>51]</a></span>
+are, indeed, very charming. For instance, you
+may have been out all day with a man, and
+when you reach his home he will step in first,
+and, turning, offer you his hand and bid you
+welcome, as though it were the first time he had
+met you that day. He welcomes you, and then
+you will be placed in the seat of honour, and
+refreshments brought you, the refusal of which
+would be an insult.</p>
+
+<p>The love of classical learning among the
+peasantry was great. It continues still, though
+the classics are not cultivated in this practical age
+as in the days when they were taught by travelling
+scholars at the hedge schools. All the old
+writers on Killarney mention their wonder at
+meeting poorly-clad men and boys able to
+converse fluently in Latin, and studying the best
+Latin, and even Greek, authors. The power of
+reading Homer in the original was greatly
+coveted, and often attained. The magic of their
+surroundings may have had much to do with
+kindling the peasant&rsquo;s imagination to passionate
+interest in a dead language.</p>
+
+<p>The first distinct mention of the sea-coast
+adjoining Killarney occurs in the works of
+Ptolemy, who wrote in the second century. He
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>52]</a></span>
+speaks of the river of Kenmare under the title
+of Iernus, while again it is called Fluctus Desmonda,
+or the River of Desmond. At this
+Iernus of Ptolemy is placed by ancient authors
+the landing of several Milesian colonists, and
+though Irish history before the Christian era is
+chiefly traditional, there seems some foundation
+for this.</p>
+
+<p>If we believe the bards and seers, the Milesian
+immigration was the fifth which came to colonize
+Hibernia out of the overflowing tribes of Asia.
+Of the fourth, the Tuatha de Danans, they tell
+a curious tale. These colonizers are depicted as
+accomplished sooth-sayers and necromancers who
+came out of Greece. They could quell storms,
+cure diseases, work in metals, foretell future events,
+and, by their supernatural powers as well as by
+virtue of the Lia Fail, or Stone of Destiny, they
+subdued the Firbolgs, who had preceded them,
+and exercised sovereignty, till they in turn were
+displaced by the Gaelic or fifth immigration.</p>
+
+<p>Sometimes these called themselves Gael, from
+an ancestor; sometimes Milesians, from Milesius,
+projector of the immigration; sometimes Scota,
+from his wife. They came from Spain, and all
+their magical arts did not save the Tuatha from
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>53]</a></span>
+defeat. &ldquo;In vain they surrounded themselves
+and their coveted island with magic-made
+tempest and terrors; in vain they reduced it in
+size so as to be almost invisible from sea.
+Amergin, one of the sons of Milesius, was a
+Druid skilled in all the arts of the East, and, led
+by him, his brothers countermined the magicians
+and beat them with their own weapons.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>Among the mountains of South Kerry the
+peasants point out a stone where Queen Scota,
+daughter of Pharaoh of Egypt, and wife of
+Milesius of Spain, is believed to lie buried. She
+was killed in battle three days after landing with
+her sons on this coast. Upon the flat of the
+stone is an Ogham inscription, which reads,
+&ldquo;Leacht Scoihin&rdquo; (&ldquo;The grave mound of
+Scota&rdquo;). Ogham experts think this inscription
+a forgery, but the old tradition makes it at least
+probable that within sound of the thunder of the
+Atlantic, far from her own people, lies the
+daughter of the Pharaohs.</p>
+
+<p>From an antiquarian point of view Kerry is
+one of the most interesting places in the British
+Isles, and very rich in relics of the past. An
+arch&aelig;ological society has been formed, which is
+endeavouring to rescue the relics and monuments
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>54]</a></span>
+from neglect and decay. Killarney has been
+found a singularly promising field to explore,
+though much has perished.</p>
+
+<p>The Celtic nature is curiously complex, and
+those who do not themselves possess it find it hard
+to understand. It has one quality in which no
+other race has ever equalled it, and that is a
+marvellous power of absorbing alien nationalities
+to itself, so that, while conquered, it yet conquers.
+It is a matter of current knowledge that the
+English became more Irish than the Irish themselves.
+They intermarried with the families of
+native chiefs, gave their children to be nursed by
+Irish foster-mothers, spoke the Irish tongue,
+espoused the Irish interests. Had this power of
+amalgamation been encouraged, and not sternly
+repressed by the English Government, there was
+a period when it might have changed completely
+the destiny of Ireland; but it was not to be.</p>
+
+<p>There is an interesting poem by an Irishman,
+&ldquo;The Geraldines,&rdquo; from which I quote one
+verse:</p>
+
+<div class="poemcenter">
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">&ldquo;These Geraldines! these Geraldines! not long our air they breathed,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Not long they fed on venison in Irish water seethed,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Not often had their children been by Irish mothers nursed,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">When from their full and genial hearts an Irish feeling burst.<br /></span>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>55]</a></span>
+<span class="i0">The English monarchs strove in vain, by law, and force, and bribe,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">To win from Irish thoughts and ways this more than Irish tribe;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">For still they cling to fosterage, to <i>breitheamh</i>, cloak, and bard;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">What King dare say to Geraldine, &lsquo;Your Irish wife discard&rsquo;?&rdquo;<br /></span>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>56]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2>CHAPTER VII<br />
+<span class="smlfont">THE FAIRIES&mdash;AND FAREWELL!</span></h2>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The</span> Raths, or &ldquo;fairy forts,&rdquo; of Killarney have
+hitherto seldom been explored. They are circular
+grassy mounds enclosing a field, generally
+small. Underneath are found stone chambers,
+their beehive roofs and walls made of unmortared
+stone. It is supposed that here the ancient Celts
+fortified themselves and their cattle, retreating in
+winter into the stone chambers. Be this as it
+may, for centuries the Irish have believed them
+to be tenanted by a fairy race, whose palaces are
+here, and who guard hidden treasure.</p>
+
+<p>These are the Sidhe, or people of the hill, the
+noblest among these mysterious folk. Some say
+they are the spirits of the Tuatha de Danan,
+that strange race which occupied Ireland till the
+Milesians came, when, conquered by a greater
+magic than their own, they disappeared. Strange
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>57]</a></span>
+to say, no mortal descendant of these people has
+ever been traced in any Irish family.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="cuttingpeat" id="cuttingpeat"></a>
+<img src="images/bik13.jpg" width="600" height="466"
+alt="" />
+<p class="caption">CUTTING PEAT FROM THE BOG.<br />
+It takes less than a week for a man to cut his fuel supply for a whole year.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>But there is another race, and these are the
+fairies proper, very human in their traits, tricky
+and malicious if slighted or offended, but good
+friends if treated properly. I cannot resist quoting
+a story (&ldquo;Hanafin and his Cows&rdquo;) told in a
+late Kerry Arch&aelig;ological Magazine by Lady
+Gordon&mdash;a tale of the fairies, originally collected
+in Kerry by Mr. J. Curtin.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Hanafin was a farmer owning a large herd
+of cows, which were driven up every morning to
+be milked in front of his house. For several
+days the tub into which the milk was poured
+was mysteriously overturned and the milk spilled.
+Hanafin&rsquo;s wife was naturally excessively indignant,
+but, in spite of every precaution, the milk
+continued to be upset. One morning, however,
+as Hanafin was walking past a fairy fort, he
+heard a child crying inside it, and a woman&rsquo;s
+voice saying: &lsquo;Be quiet awhile! Hanafin&rsquo;s cows
+are going home; we&rsquo;ll soon have milk in plenty.&rsquo;
+Hanafin went home and personally supervised the
+milking, and on the usual overturning stopped
+his wife from scolding, telling her this time it
+was no fault of the girls, who had been pushed
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>58]</a></span>
+by one of the cows against the tub. &lsquo;Leave it
+to me,&rsquo; he said; &lsquo;I&rsquo;ll try and manage the
+business.&rsquo;</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;The following morning, on hearing the child
+cry again in the fort, Hanafin, &lsquo;like the brave
+man he was,&rsquo; went inside. He saw no one, but
+he said, &lsquo;A child is crying for milk. A cow of
+mine will calve to-morrow. I&rsquo;ll let no one milk
+that cow; you can do what you like with her
+milk.&rsquo;</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;The tub was never overturned again, and for
+two years Hanafin prospered in every way,
+taking good care of the cow, and never letting
+her be milked.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Unfortunately, however, Hanafin, being soft-hearted,
+went security for some of his neighbours
+who had got into trouble, with the
+result that their creditors came down on him,
+and the bailiffs arrived one day to drive off
+his cattle. Hanafin repaired to the fort, and
+said: &lsquo;I&rsquo;m going to lose all my cattle, but
+I&rsquo;ll try and keep the cow I gave you, and
+feed her still, so that the child may have the
+milk.&rsquo;</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Three bailiffs came and went down to the
+pasture across the field, but when they drove the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>59]</a></span>
+cows up as far as the fairy fort &lsquo;each bailiff was
+caught and thrown hither and over by people he
+couldn&rsquo;t see. One moment he was at one side
+of the ditch, the next at the other. They were
+so roughly handled and bruised that they were
+hardly alive, and they not seeing who or what
+was doing it! The cattle, raising their tails,
+bawled and ran off to the pasture.&rsquo;</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;The following morning ten policemen and
+bailiffs went to take Hanafin&rsquo;s cattle, with
+exactly the same results, so that the men &lsquo;barely
+left the place alive.&rsquo; Never again did police or
+bailiff meddle with Hanafin&rsquo;s cattle, and the
+creditors never collected their money.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>These are the familiar fairies who stole
+children out of their cradles, young matrons
+from their husbands, and girls from their lovers;
+who bewitched cows and blighted potatoes, but
+who &ldquo;did you many a good turn too.&rdquo; The
+peasant will not lightly lose faith in them, nor
+will the fairies lightly forsake the land of beauty,
+of sunshine, and of shadow. Quickly as events
+march and ideas change in this wonderful age,
+hurrying we know not where, and though here
+and there someone may be found to dare&mdash;or say
+he will&mdash;enter a fairy fort or cut down a fairy
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>60]</a></span>
+thorn, I think that with the boldest of these
+unbelievers it is a case of the man who denied
+the power of the priest to turn him into a rat,
+but who, saying &ldquo;It&rsquo;s as well to make sure,&rdquo;
+took the precaution of shutting up the cat at
+night. &ldquo;Taking it all round,&rdquo; writes Lady
+Gordon, &ldquo;it would be a drab world if there
+were no fairies in it, no supernatural region in
+which nothing is too preposterous to occur....
+Earth-bound humanity, seeking to escape from
+earth cares, still dreams in one form or other of
+a land of strange happenings.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>How much remains still to be said about
+Killarney, its varied interests, its shifting,
+matchless scenery! The lover of beauty and
+romance, the historian, the arch&aelig;ologist, the
+antiquary&mdash;it is a field for each. It has begun
+to dawn on the mind of many explorers what
+great questions hinge on Celtic antiquities, what
+light they may shed upon the ancient history of
+Europe, while students of the Irish language say
+it will yet prove the key to ancient ones which
+are puzzling philologists. Killarney is rich in
+Ogham inscriptions, in curious old remains and
+relics (utilized hitherto by mason and builder).
+Such as are not hopelessly lost are gradually
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>61]</a></span>
+being unearthed by the ardent seekers of
+to-day.</p>
+
+<p>Whatever changes may be in the future,
+Killarney must ever remain a land of enchantment.
+Perhaps a few recent words of Alfred
+Austin may fitly close this attempt to sketch the
+principal features of this fair land.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;The tender grace of wood and water is set
+in a framework of hills, now stern, now ineffably
+gentle, now dimpling with smiles, now frowning
+and rugged with impending storm, now muffled
+and mysterious with mist, only to meet you again
+with brilliant sunshine. Here the trout leaps,
+there the eagle soars, and there beyond the wild
+deer dash through the arbutus covert, through
+which they have come to the margin of the
+lake to drink, and, scared by your footstep or
+your oar, are away back to bracken or heather-covered
+moorland. But the first, the final, the
+deepest and most enduring impression of Killarney
+is that of beauty unspeakably tender,
+which puts on at times a garb of grandeur and a
+look of awe, only to heighten by contrast its soft
+loveliness. How the missel thrushes sing, as
+well they may! How the streams and runnels
+leap and laugh! For the sound of journeying
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>62]</a></span>
+water is never out of your ears, the feeling of the
+moist, the fresh, the vernal is never out of your
+heart.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>No, never! True words are these with
+which reluctantly to say farewell to beautiful
+Killarney.</p>
+
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>63]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2>INDEX</h2>
+
+
+<p class="indexlinks">
+<a href="#a">A</a> <a href="#b">B</a> <a href="#c">C</a>
+<a href="#d">D</a> <a href="#e">E</a> <a href="#f">F</a>
+<a href="#g">G</a> <a href="#h">H</a> <a href="#i">I</a>
+<a href="#k">K</a> <a href="#l">L</a> <a href="#m">M</a>
+<a href="#o">O</a> <a href="#p">P</a> <a href="#r">R</a>
+<a href="#s">S</a> <a href="#t">T</a> <a href="#v">V</a>
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="index1"><a name="a" id="a"></a>Aghadoe, <a href="#Page_12">12</a><br />
+Antiquities of Kerry, <a href="#Page_53">53</a><br />
+Arbutus, The, <a href="#Page_26">26</a><br />
+Austin, Alfred, <a href="#Page_61">61</a></p>
+
+<p class="index1"><a name="b" id="b"></a>Black Valley, <a href="#Page_20">20</a></p>
+
+<p class="index1"><a name="c" id="c"></a>Chess in Ancient Ireland, <a href="#Page_19">19</a><br />
+Clancarty, Earl of, <a href="#Page_36">36</a><br />
+Classical learning amongst older generation, <a href="#Page_51">51</a><br />
+Coleman&rsquo;s Eye, <a href="#Page_28">28</a></p>
+
+<p class="index1"><a name="d" id="d"></a>Devil&rsquo;s Punch Bowl, <a href="#Page_36">36</a><br />
+Devil&rsquo;s Stream, <a href="#Page_37">37</a><br />
+Dunloe Castle, <a href="#Page_14">14</a><br />
+Dunloe, Gap of, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></p>
+
+<p class="index1"><a name="e" id="e"></a>Eagle Island, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></p>
+
+<p class="index1"><a name="f" id="f"></a>Fairies, The, <a href="#Page_56">56</a><br />
+Foliage of mountain-sides, <a href="#Page_24">24</a></p>
+
+<p class="index1"><a name="g" id="g"></a>&ldquo;Geraldines, The,&rdquo; <a href="#Page_54">54</a><br />
+Glena, <a href="#Page_46">46</a><br />
+Golf Links, <a href="#Page_12">12</a><br />
+Guides, The, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></p>
+
+<p class="index1"><a name="h" id="h"></a>&ldquo;Hanafin and His Cows,&rdquo; <a href="#Page_57">57</a></p>
+
+<p class="index1"><a name="i" id="i"></a>Innisfallen, Abbey of, <a href="#Page_44">44</a><br />
+Innisfallen, Annals of, <a href="#Page_44">44</a><br />
+Innisfallen Island, <a href="#Page_43">43</a><br />
+Islands, The, <a href="#Page_23">23</a></p>
+
+<p class="index1"><a name="k" id="k"></a>Kate Kearney&rsquo;s cottage, <a href="#Page_16">16</a><br />
+Killarney folk, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></p>
+
+<p class="index1"><a name="l" id="l"></a>Lakes and mountains, <a href="#Page_23">23</a><br />
+Last Irish snake, <a href="#Page_20">20</a><br />
+&ldquo;Light of Love,&rdquo; <a href="#Page_29">29</a><br />
+Logan Stone, <a href="#Page_21">21</a><br />
+Long Range, The, <a href="#Page_28">28</a><br />
+&ldquo;Lord Brandon&rsquo;s Cottage,&rdquo; <a href="#Page_22">22</a><br />
+Lough Leane, <a href="#Page_47">47</a><br />
+Ludlow, Parliamentary General, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></p>
+
+<p class="index1"><a name="m" id="m"></a>Macaulay, Lord, his words on Innisfallen, <a href="#Page_43">43</a><br />
+MacCarthy&rsquo;s Island, <a href="#Page_27">27</a><br />
+MacGillicuddy&rsquo;s Reeks, <a href="#Page_18">18</a><br />
+Mineral treasures, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_41">41</a><br />
+Moore, Thomas, the poet, <a href="#Page_16">16</a><br />
+Muckross Abbey, <a href="#Page_33">33</a><br />
+Muskerry, Lord, the Royalist, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></p>
+
+<p class="index1"><a name="o" id="o"></a>O&rsquo;Donoghue and his white charger, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_40">40</a><br />
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[<span class="hidden">Pg </span>64]</a></span>
+O&rsquo;Donoghues of Ross, The, <a href="#Page_40">40</a><br />
+Ogham inscriptions, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>, <a href="#Page_53">53</a><br />
+Origin of the lakes, legendary, <a href="#Page_9">9</a><br />
+<i>Osmundi Regalia</i>, <a href="#Page_28">28</a><br />
+O&rsquo;Sullivan&rsquo;s Cascade, <a href="#Page_47">47</a></p>
+
+<p class="index1"><a name="p" id="p"></a>Precious Stones of Kerry, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_43">43</a><br />
+Ptolemy&rsquo;s map of Ireland, <a href="#Page_51">51</a><br />
+Purple Mountain, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></p>
+
+<p class="index1"><a name="r" id="r"></a>Raths, or fairy forts, <a href="#Page_56">56</a><br />
+Ross Castle, <a href="#Page_38">38</a></p>
+
+<p class="index1"><a name="s" id="s"></a>Scota, Queen, daughter of Pharaoh, <a href="#Page_53">53</a><br />
+Settlements of Ireland, early, <a href="#Page_52">52</a><br />
+Sidhe, the, or People of the Hill, <a href="#Page_56">56</a><br />
+Stag-hunting, <a href="#Page_48">48</a><br />
+Stillman, the famous war correspondent, <a href="#Page_7">7</a></p>
+
+<p class="index1"><a name="t" id="t"></a>Toomies Mountain, <a href="#Page_18">18</a>, <a href="#Page_46">46</a><br />
+Torc Cascade, <a href="#Page_36">36</a><br />
+<i>Trichomanes speciosum</i>, or Brutle Fern, <a href="#Page_29">29</a></p>
+
+<p class="index1"><a name="v" id="v"></a>Voice of Nature, The, <a href="#Page_7">7</a></p>
+
+
+<p class="publisher">BILLING AND SONS, LTD., PRINTERS, GUILDFORD</p>
+
+
+
+<div class="bbox">
+<p><b>Transcriber's Note</b></p>
+
+<p>Minor punctuation errors have been fixed.</p>
+
+<p>The following amendments have been made, for consistency:</p>
+
+<div class="amends">
+<p>Page <a href="#Page_24">24</a>&mdash;McGillicuddy&rsquo;s amended to MacGillicuddy&rsquo;s&mdash;... even in point of
+height the MacGillicuddy&rsquo;s Reeks ...</p>
+
+<p>Page <a href="#Page_50">50</a>&mdash;McCarthy amended to MacCarthy&mdash;&ldquo;I am a MacCarthy; my husband is
+only a so-and-so,&rdquo; ...</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The frontispiece illustration has been moved to follow the title page. Other
+illustrations have been moved where necessary so that they are not in the
+middle of a paragraph.</p>
+
+<p>The List of Illustrations notes that "The Eagle&rsquo;s Nest, Killarney" appears
+"On the cover." This is preserved as printed; however the illustration was
+actually located facing page <a href="#Page_22">22</a>, and the transcriber has left it in this
+location.</p>
+
+<p>The transcriber has added links to the beginning of the index for ease of
+navigation.</p>
+
+<p>Ditto marks in the Index have been replaced with the appropriate words.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Killarney, by Mary Gorges
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK KILLARNEY ***
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+</pre>
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+</body>
+</html>
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@@ -0,0 +1,1833 @@
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Killarney, by Mary Gorges
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Killarney
+
+Author: Mary Gorges
+
+Illustrator: Francis S. Walker
+
+Release Date: March 15, 2014 [EBook #45144]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK KILLARNEY ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by sp1nd, Sam W. and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's Note
+
+Some illustrations were uncaptioned in the original. The transcriber
+has used the captions from the list of illustrations for the
+convenience of the reader. These captions are in {braces}.
+
+
+
+
+    Beautiful Ireland
+
+
+        Killarney
+
+           By
+       Mary Gorges
+
+
+     [Illustration]
+
+
+         London
+  Adam & Charles Black
+      Soho Square W
+          1912
+
+
+
+
+  [Illustration: {THE UPPER LAKE.}]
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+  CHAPTER                                                       PAGE
+     I. THE GLAMOUR OF KILLARNEY                                   5
+
+    II. THE ROAD THROUGH THE GAP: ITS MEMORIES AND ITS RUINS      11
+
+   III. THE LAKES AND THE MOUNTAINS                               23
+
+    IV. MUCKROSS                                                  33
+
+     V. ROSS, INNISFALLEN, AND THE LOWER LAKE                     38
+
+    VI. THE KILLARNEY FOLK                                        49
+
+   VII. THE FAIRIES--AND FAREWELL!                                56
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+BY FRANCIS S. WALKER, R.H.A.
+
+
+   1. THE UPPER LAKE                          _Frontispiece_
+
+                                                 FACING PAGE
+   2. THE GAP OF DUNLOE ON A STORMY DAY                    9
+
+   3. THE HEAD OF THE GAP OF DUNLOE                       16
+
+   4. AT THE FOOT OF MANGERTON MOUNTAIN                   25
+
+   5. O'SULLIVAN'S PUNCHBOWL                              27
+
+   6. MUCKROSS LAKE AND GLENA MOUNTAIN                    30
+
+   7. MUCKROSS                                            32
+
+   8. THE ISLAND OF INNISFALLEN                           43
+
+   9. IN A TYPICAL COTTAGE                                46
+
+  10. MOUNTAIN HOMES OF THE KILLARNEY DISTRICT            49
+
+  11. CUTTING PEAT FROM THE BOG                           56
+
+  12. THE EAGLE'S NEST, KILLARNEY             _On the cover_
+
+
+
+
+KILLARNEY
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+THE GLAMOUR OF KILLARNEY
+
+
+Killarney--in Irish "the Church of the Sloes"--though but a small
+town, is, owing to its position, the centre from which the wondrously
+lovely scenery of the district may best be explored, a district which
+has been described as "the Mecca of every pilgrim in search of the
+sublime and beautiful in Nature--the mountain paradise of the West."
+Yet if the magical softness of shimmering wave and wooded isle, the
+glory of their colouring, the ineffable peace which broods over hill
+and vale, tempt the summer visitor to think that Paradise could not be
+fairer, there are dark glens, frowning mountains, and sombre passes,
+which but too vividly remind the beholder that on earth must the
+shadow always follow the sunshine, the minor note of sadness be heard,
+that even in this enchanted spot has the war-cry many a time been
+sounded, and men have wreaked their fierce passions and poured out
+their blood, and women, stricken to the heart, have suffered and died
+under these tender skies. The ruined castles tell their own story.
+
+To analyze the charm of Killarney Vale is impossible. It is the very
+region of romance, and one to which fairy legend and ghostly tale seem
+to fit themselves better than do the commonplaces of life. There would
+seem nothing strange were the O'Donoghue on his white charger seen to
+cleave the wave and emerge on its foam-flecked shore, coming we know
+not whence, going we know not where, but real as when he trod his
+native glens, a prince and a ruler among men. The unseen world seems
+very near to those who have fallen under the spell of fair Killarney.
+
+Part of this charm is doubtless due to the wonder of its beauty, the
+ceaseless contrasts it presents. I have seen a theory advanced of late
+years that, as is the land, so are the dwellers thereon; that the
+character of the soil determines that of its children; the rivers
+which they look upon, rapid and lawless, or strong and silent; the
+dark forest; the rich fields or the barren plains; the mysterious
+mountain or the gay valley, alike influence--nay, form--their
+individuality. There is a remarkable passage in the autobiography of a
+very remarkable man--Stillman (war correspondent to the _Times_ in its
+earlier days), in which he speaks of the effect which a few weeks'
+sojourn among the then primeval forests on the banks of the Hudson
+produced upon him. Over-wearied by brain work, he had shut himself
+away from sight or sound of civilization, from human companionship,
+depending on his gun for food, the waters of the spring for drink. He
+describes how gradually the artificialities of life seemed to slip
+from him, and he felt akin with grass and tree, with the skies above
+him, the clouds which swept over their surface, the glories of the sun
+by day, the moon and the stars by night. He seemed also conscious of a
+world of spirits, or at least beings not of flesh and blood, very
+close to him. Sometimes as he lay at rest upon the grass a radiant
+face looked down on him; once or twice a voice spoke. Above all, he
+felt confident he was being guided when external guidance was
+impossible, in black darkness, and when a mistake or false step meant
+death. He believed that senses we have lost revive, and that we grow
+cognisant of a world other than that we habitually live in, as, far
+away from the haunts of men, we let Nature speak to us once more.
+
+In many voices has Nature spoken to the children of Killarney, weaving
+something of the changeableness, the melancholy, the deep gloom, and
+the overflowing sunshine of their hills and vales into the very heart
+of the people, making them what they are for good or ill. To them has
+been given vision of the supernatural region as a refuge to the
+earth-bound spirit from the sordid cares of money-getting; and so has a
+world of dreamers, for all their outward gaiety and lightheartedness,
+been created in the kingdom of Kerry. Dreamers we call them, but, after
+all, may not Jean Paul Richter's words be prophetic, and the dreamers
+yet awaken from life's uneasy sleep to find its dreams alone were true.
+
+  [Illustration: THE GAP OF DUNLOE ON A STORMY DAY.
+    The wildness of the Gap is a great contrast to the lake scenery
+      to which it gives access.]
+
+The name of Killarney conjures up such thoughts. It owes its fame
+solely to its beauty and to the fascination which the character of
+that beauty exercises over the beholder. For it is never the same, and
+every change appeals to the imagination. Who that has seen it can
+forget the superb tinting of the foliage which clothes the mountain
+sides and transforms the isles into quivering kaleidoscopes of colour,
+flashing back the light as the waves of a sunlit sea. Then a shadow
+flits from the mountain tops, and the hues change as though under the
+spell of a magician hidden among those far-off caves, but only to a
+yet richer combination. Gorse and heather, arbutus and fern, show a
+softer radiance, less dazzling, but more sympathetic; silvery rills
+course down the declivities which surround the lakes, now visible
+through the trees and giant shrubs, now hidden, but always with a
+murmur of sound like distant notes of the fairy music which once, it
+is said, woke the echoes of Killarney. And for those who have the
+hearing ear it may do so still; with unbelievers the "good people"
+have no intercourse.
+
+There is a supernatural origin ascribed to almost everything in
+Killarney--to the lakes among the rest. These are formed and supplied
+by the numerous minor lakes in the surrounding mountains, and by
+several rivers which flow into them, having received on their way the
+waters of innumerable tributary streams, all finding an outlet by the
+rapid river Laune, which bears them to the Atlantic through the
+beautiful bay of Dingle.
+
+But in long-ago days there were no lakes at Killarney--so legend
+says--only an extensive and inhabited valley, fair and fertile. In
+this was a magic fountain, which supplied water clear as crystal,
+concerning which a tradition existed that whoever should displace the
+stone over the well-head would bring destruction to himself and to the
+valley. It was the reckless daring of a mortal which caused the
+fulfilment of this prediction. One of the great O'Donoghues, to prove
+the falsity of a tradition which he scorned, resolved in evil hour to
+have the stone removed to his castle. With fear and trembling his
+subjects, who dared not disobey him, awaited the result, all save his
+favourite jester, who fled to the summit of a neighbouring mountain.
+When morning came the jester looked down into the valley, and saw
+nothing but a great expanse of water. The valley was flooded in a
+single night, and its inhabitants drowned. It is believed, however,
+that they did not perish, but still exist under the lakes, enjoying a
+happier life than the earth one they left, feasting, music, and
+dancing filling the hours.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+THE ROAD THROUGH THE GAP: ITS MEMORIES AND ITS RUINS
+
+
+The principal lakes of Killarney are three in number--the Upper Lake
+is the smallest, but often adjudged the most beautiful; it is two
+miles and a half in length by half a mile in breadth, the Middle (Torc
+or Muckross) Lake is two miles long by one broad, while Lough Leane
+("the Lake of Learning") is five miles and a half long by two miles
+and a half in breadth.
+
+These lakes are connected by channels, narrow, though sufficiently
+wide to admit of the passing of a boat, so in a sense they may be
+considered as one, yet each lake possesses a character peculiar to
+itself and very distinctive.
+
+Killarney is easy of access in these days. In less than sixteen hours
+the tourist may reach it from London, via Holyhead, while Queenstown,
+Liverpool and the newer route by Rosslare afford facilities for
+visitors from every land. And once arrived they find all the comforts
+and luxuries of modern civilization in the first class hotels, which
+have sprung up to meet the ever increasing need of accommodation;
+hotels from some of which the visitor may view the beauty of lake and
+mountain, the lights and shadows, the glory of their colouring,
+without going further afield.
+
+Killarney itself is a small town of which there is little to record.
+Adjoining is the Earl of Kenmare's demesne, with its fine gardens and
+splendid golf links; the latter one of the best inland courses in
+Ireland. Visitors can use it on payment of a small green fee.
+
+To proceed by land to the far-famed Gap of Dunloe, and, traversing it,
+take the road to the Upper Lake, is the general plan followed by the
+stranger, for this best shows a great and varied extent of country,
+with such contrasts of softness and grandeur--nay, desolation--as no
+other scenery presents.
+
+In this land the past has graven deep its records in ruined castle,
+tower and abbey, each with its tale. And the first of these after
+leaving Killarney, is to be found at Aghadoe (in Irish Acadh-da-ca,
+"the field of the two yew trees"). It is about two miles from
+Killarney, and a slight detour to the right must be made to visit it.
+
+Aghadoe stands on an eminence commanding most lovely views of the
+lakes and mountains. It was an ancient bishopric, and here is the ruin
+of its Cathedral church, which consists of two chapels of distinct
+periods of antiquity. They lie east and west of each other--that to
+the east, probably dating from about 1158, is in the Pointed style,
+and dedicated to the Holy Trinity; the more ancient, in
+Hiberno-Romanesque style, appears to have been built some centuries
+before the coming of the Normans, and is far richer and more
+beautiful. The western end contains a doorway of recessed arches,
+covered with particularly fine mouldings and decorations.
+
+Not far from the western end are the remains of what must have been a
+very fine Round tower, judging from the style of its masonry, now,
+however, only about 15 feet in height. Many of its stones have been
+taken away and converted into tombstones for neighbouring churchyards,
+or some other need of the mason. The Castle is another massive
+circular fragment of about 30 feet in height, sometimes called "The
+Bishop's Chair," sometimes "The Pulpit," and believed to have been
+the residence of the bishops of the diocese.
+
+Following the road to the north side of the lake, several fine
+demesnes are passed, one of them, Lakeview House, being the residence
+of Sir Morgan Ross O'Connell, Bart., grand-nephew of the Liberator. It
+is a beautiful drive, and many a tale of the past will enliven the
+way, as, crossing Beaufort Bridge over the Laune, you reach Dunloe
+Castle at the west end of the lake, about seven miles from Killarney
+town.
+
+Dunloe Castle stands on a height from whence the view is glorious.
+This Castle is the seat of the Mahonys, and is very ancient. An old
+history of Kerry mentions that its floors are formed of very fine
+planks of the yew tree, a wood which, when well wrought, has a more
+beautiful grain and polish than mahogany. Bees have taken up their
+residence for centuries in this old fortress. They are in curious
+niches and angles behind the massive walls and under the floors. They
+disturb no one and refuse to be evicted. A bee-keeper tried if he
+could tempt them beyond their bounds by laying "sections" in a place
+to which they had access, with a hope of securing some of the honey.
+They took no notice. Through a cupboard in one of the walls, you can
+see far back a host of these little people, the self-constituted
+guests of Dunloe Castle, very busy over their affairs.
+
+There is a fishing lodge close to Dunloe Castle. This is let during
+the season, and very fine sport is to be had. The splendid lake and
+river fishing about Killarney is no small attraction to the angler,
+both being well stocked with the finest trout and salmon.
+
+A very remarkable cave near the Gap of Dunloe was accidentally
+discovered in 1838, and was then and subsequently explored with much
+interest. Its roof has now fallen in. It was a subterranean chamber of
+circular form, the walls of uncemented stones inclining inwards, with
+a roof also of long transverse stones, the angles of which are covered
+with Ogham writing, "which is to the Irish antiquary what the Runes
+are in the north, the Arrow-headed or Wedge characters in Babylonia or
+Persepolis. Archaeological discoveries in Ireland are of more general
+interest than formerly, as the earth is laying bare her secrets all
+over the world, and what is discovered in one country is found to have
+its bearing on something brought to light in another." The discovery
+of Ogham characters in this cave was additional evidence that the
+Irish had a literature far in advance of the rest of Europe and long
+before the Christian era.
+
+Close to the entrance of the Gap stands Kate Kearney's cottage as,
+whether it contains a "Kate" or not, it will always be called. There
+is many a pretty girl in Kerry whose bright eyes, clear colouring and
+beautiful hair attract the passer by, but Kate will be remembered to
+the end of time, because of the few lines which, "lilting" from a
+poet's heart, conferred upon her the crown of immortal youth and
+beauty:
+
+    "From the glance of her eye, shun danger and fly,
+    For fatal's the glance of Kate Kearney!"
+
+It is the fashion to depreciate Moore as a poet, to compare his lyrics
+to the notes of a musical-box, sweet indeed, but devoid of true
+inspiration. Yet he fulfilled a noble mission in his day, rescuing and
+bringing to light the music of his country, wedding it to words that
+tell its story or reveal its beauties instead of the worthless jingle
+which had so often degraded it. It was Moore's poetry which greatly
+helped to make Killarney known early in the last century to many in
+England.
+
+  [Illustration: THE HEAD OF THE GAP OF DUNLOE.]
+
+Readers of the literature of that day will know what an influence
+Moore was in its intellectual circles--his wit, his geniality, his
+singing, "the effect of which," writes N. P. Willis, who met him at
+Lady Blessington's, "is only equalled by the beauty of his own words."
+His voice was of small compass, but exquisitely modulated and
+expressing every shade of feeling and sentiment, so that women have
+been known to faint as they listened to his singing, which awakened,
+perhaps, a buried sorrow, a long past anguish.
+
+Once enter the Gap of Dunloe and the scene utterly changes; gone is
+the soft verdure, the brilliant tinting, silent the song of birds. On
+either side rise huge rocks, of strange, fantastic shapes, often
+appearing half suspended over the path, while never far from it rushes
+the dark Loe, "a brawling and angry stream," which traverses the whole
+length of the Gap, about four miles, often passing along heights, then
+tumbling into depths with rush and roar, now near, now distant, but
+ever voicing the wild emotions which seem to lurk amid the gloom of
+this stern defile. It expands into five lakes, called collectively
+the Cummeen Lakes, during its passage through the Gap.
+
+Tradition ascribes the origin of this wild pass to a stroke from the
+sword of a mighty giant, which separated the mountains and left them
+apart for ever, MacGillicuddy's Reeks on one side, Toomies and the
+Purple Mountain on the other. Very stern and grand look the Reeks, one
+of their peaks, Carn-tual ("the inverted sickle") rising higher than
+any mountain in Ireland--3,414 feet above the level of the sea. There
+is softer beauty on the mountains to the left, the Purple Mountain in
+particular (2,739 feet in height). The lovely hue which pervades this
+mountain is generally ascribed to a purple heath, which covers its
+sides, almost to the top, with perpetual bloom. Its name, however, was
+originally derived from an immense pile of loose stones and slates of
+a purple tint, which becomes intense when the sun shines upon them.
+
+It is from the Gap of Dunloe that the Purple Mountain should be
+ascended; it is not a formidable climb, but ponies await those who
+fear the fatigue. The view from the summit is magnificent.
+
+The western base of this mountain descends into Augher Lake, and
+close to this spot is the Woodwork Factory, where carved specimens of
+arbutus and other woods can be obtained in inlaid tables, chess and
+backgammon sets, card cases, etc.
+
+Chess is believed to have been played in prehistoric times by the
+ancient Irish, and the frequent mention of the game long before the
+Norman invasion shows it was a favourite one. "The chess board was
+called in Irish 'fithcheall,' and is described in the _Glossary_ of
+Cormac of Cashel, composed towards the close of the ninth century, as
+quadrangular in shape, and having straight spots of black and white.
+Some of these were inlaid with gold and silver and adorned with gems.
+No entire set of the ancient men is now known to exist, though
+frequent mention is made of the brigade or family of chessmen in many
+old manuscripts. Kings of bone, seated in sculptured chairs, about 2
+inches in height, have been found, and specimens of them engraved in
+recent antiquarian publications" (D'Arcy Magee's _History of
+Ireland_).
+
+The most striking part of the Gap is where the valley contracts so as
+to bring the precipitous sides very close together. The peasants have
+named this the Pike, and to the grotesquely formed rocks along the
+pass they have also given names--the Turnpike, O'Donoghue's Heart, and
+so on. The impression conveyed as you proceed, is of gloom and of a
+certain aloofness from the ordinary. The eagle soaring above is no
+uncommon sight.
+
+A little distance from the Pike is a lonely tarn called the Black Lake
+(Loch Dubh), where St. Patrick imprisoned the last Irish snake, which
+is supposed to live in its depths. A little south of the Pass the spot
+is pointed out where the last Irish wolf was slain.
+
+There is a stamp of wild force in all that meets the eye while
+traversing the Gap, which is not diminished as at Gap Cottage the end
+is neared. At its commencement cars have had to be abandoned. You must
+ride or walk. If you have elected to walk you will probably now be
+footsore and weary. Even the sure-footed ponies generally used may not
+prevent fatigue from the rough, precipitous road, but it is forgotten
+when, on leaving the Gap, a turn in the path brings in view one of the
+most famous glens of Killarney--the Black Valley. This was formerly
+described as so black, so desolate, that it might have been named the
+Valley of the Shadow of Death. It owes this reputation merely to its
+English name--a mistranslation from the Irish one--Cumin Dubh
+(O'Duff's Valley). No one knows who this O'Duff was, however, and the
+Black Valley is a more romantic name for a singularly wild and
+beautiful scene.
+
+The path now inclines to the left, bringing in view the Upper Lake,
+its waters glowing like burnished gold, if, as often happens, it
+approaches the sunset hour when you reach it. How lovely it looks,
+guarded on every side by those great mountains which hold so many
+secrets!
+
+Not without a passing regret do we leave the Gap. It has its own
+charm, arousing wonder and curiosity and a certain awe. One really
+feels when the Pike is reached as though there was nothing strange in
+its having emanated from the giant's sword.
+
+The scene surveyed from here is very beautiful, and tempts delay, but
+the Upper Lake must be reached. By the side of the hill you descend is
+the Logan stone, or "balanced rock," long considered a wonder of
+Druidical times. Some affirm now that its rocking motion is from
+natural causes, but, set as it is on the lonely hill, it looks as if
+it well might have been fashioned by those stern old heathen.
+
+Still descending, the road takes a sharp backward curve to the foot of
+Fubrahy's Crags; then, turning again, it continues till, after
+crossing a bridge, it passes through an opening in the wall into
+Gurmaheen Demesne, within which are tea and waiting rooms, called
+"Lord Brandon's Cottage." From thence a short path descends to the
+Upper Lake, where in some sheltered bay your boat awaits you.
+
+  [Illustration: {THE EAGLE'S NEST, KILLARNEY.}]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+THE LAKES AND THE MOUNTAINS
+
+
+No one has ever realized the enchantment of Killarney or fallen under
+its spell who has not been upon its waters. As the boat glides into
+the Upper Lake, all that has ever been said of its varied beauty seems
+poor compared to the reality. The mountains which surround it on every
+side give indescribable grandeur to its scenery--so much so that,
+added to the contrasted beauty of its wooded isles, it is on the whole
+conceded that it bears the golden apple from its sister lakes;
+certainly, as the boatmen row from point to point, you say so, and
+memory, bringing back the vision in after days--perhaps in the hot and
+dusty thoroughfare--confirms the verdict.
+
+The Upper Lake contains twelve small islands, some of them of such a
+height that at a distance they resemble so many lofty towers standing
+in the waters, their summits crowned with bright green wreaths of the
+arbutus and many another verdant shrub and tree. In other aspects they
+appear to represent the ruins of stately palaces. To add to this
+effect, their edges are so much worn by the dashing of water against
+them, and by rains washing away the earth, and "time hath so
+disjointed these marble rocks," that some hang in such curious fashion
+as to represent a rude architectural formation.
+
+The extraordinary verdure, not only of the isles, but of the
+mountains, is even more striking viewed from these lonely waters than
+where man has left more perceptible trace of his presence. It seems
+incredible that giant fern, tree-shrubs, and plants should flourish in
+tropical profusion at the great heights to which they attain, and
+without the artificial aid which is impossible.
+
+This wonderful foliage is the glory of all the islands, but here it
+throws into intense relief the sublimity inseparable from great
+mountain scenery, and even in point of height the MacGillicuddy's
+Reeks can claim greatness. More than a hundred years ago Holmes, in
+his _Tour in Ireland_, records his first glimpse of the noble range:
+"Their peaks immersed in mist and storms, along their prodigious
+furrows the cataracts, swollen by recent rains, tumbling with fury and
+glistening like liquid silver; in a little time the peaks piercing
+through the clouds, the grey mists slow descending like a great
+curtain, through which the sun darted his rays."
+
+  [Illustration: AT THE FOOT OF MANGERTON MOUNTAIN, KILLARNEY.]
+
+The Purple Mountain, always beautiful and changeful in aspect as the
+lakes themselves, looks down from the north, while on the other side
+rises Torc's noble outline, and further off great Mangerton.
+
+Many of the mountains are densely wooded to a great height--giant
+ferns, the rowan, holly, yew, juniper. Above all the arbutus grow in a
+tangle of profusion, and on rocks where no earth appears. How the
+steep rocks and crags can give root-hold to this forestry of green is
+a marvel to the beholder, the roots being simply filaments entwining
+themselves round crevices in the stone, holding on with a grim
+tenacity which defies the wildest storm--better even than the forest
+tree. The birds of the air have dropped their seeds, or the winds
+carried them to this their home, and they will not let it go. Here
+will they stay as long, perchance, as the rocks themselves.
+
+"I expected the loveliness I met," said an English visitor to
+Killarney lately, "and I believe the strongest impression made on me
+was by those beautiful tropical shrubs in mid-air, as they seemed, and
+with no apparent hold on the soil."
+
+The arbutus is supposed by some to have come from Spain and to have
+been cultivated in the first instance by the early monks; but the more
+general belief is that it was indigenous. It is not to be found of
+spontaneous growth nearer to Ireland than the very south of France and
+Italy, and only as a shrub, while about the lakes and mountains here
+it often becomes a large and tall tree. Pliny mentions it as
+extraordinary that it should thus grow in Arabia, and Petra Bellonus
+also observes this as occurring on Mount Athos in Macedonia. But it
+seems to love its Irish home best, and to revel in the luxuriant
+growth which makes it so noticeable in Killarney's leafy forests.
+
+The blossoms of the arbutus grow in clusters of white bells, not
+unlike those of the lily of the valley, in great abundance, and
+nestling under bunches of bright green leaves. It has, at the same
+time, ripe and green fruit on its branches, first a deep pale yellow,
+deepening, as it advances to ripeness, then a brilliant scarlet
+like that of a strawberry. Autumn and winter are the seasons of its
+greatest bloom and beauty.
+
+  [Illustration: O'SULLIVAN'S PUNCHBOWL, KILLARNEY.]
+
+A most beautiful cascade at the western end of the lake tumbles down
+the mountain side and empties itself in a dazzling sheet of foam into
+its waters. The music of its fall seems very close as the boat passes
+the various isles, and you are told the legends connected with them.
+One in particular, MacCarthy's Island, is pointed out as the last
+refuge of one of the great family. We will find other memories of this
+powerful sept in many a local tradition. Here a battle was fought, a
+fort taken or lost, triumph or defeat, and then you are pointed to a
+grave--the end of it all!
+
+But on the Upper Lake it is hard to think of anything but the lovely,
+lonely scenery--lonelier because of the everlasting hills which
+compass it around.
+
+Eagle Island was once the haunt of these royal birds, and still the
+golden eagle has not forsaken it, though less seldom seen. Ronayne
+Island is named after one who lived there, apart from his fellow-men,
+in self-chosen solitude. At each point there is something to relate,
+while every turn produces a change in outline or colour so as almost
+to form a fresh scene. Many a lovely little bay and channel are
+explored, till too soon the boat passes the last islet, enters the
+last bay, rounds the last promontory.
+
+A very narrow part of the passage occurs here where this promontory
+juts out, leaving a breadth of only about thirty feet. It is called
+Coleman's Eye. Some legendary person is said to have leaped across the
+stream here, leaving his footprints on the rock beyond.
+
+And now, with long look and reluctant farewell, we are on the Long
+Range, the river connecting the Upper with its sister lakes.
+
+In Holmes' _Tour_ he thus characterizes the Long Range: "I should
+distinguish the Upper Lake as being the most sublime, the Lower the
+most beautiful, and Muckross Lake the most picturesque, the winding
+passage leading to the Upper containing a surprising combination of
+the three, probably not to be exceeded by any spot in the world."
+
+The Long Range is about two miles in length. Its margins are gemmed
+with water-lilies, snowy and golden. Here the _Osmunda regalia_ is
+seen growing almost in forests, and of great size, its branches, as
+well as those of the alder, birch, yew, arbutus, and many another,
+entwining as if they grew from a common root. Other rare ferns, some
+peculiar to Kerry, as the Brutle fern (_Trichomanes speciosum_),
+completely clothe the wild crags on either side. But it is hopeless to
+attempt specifying the variety of foliage, the different shades of
+green, the masses of heather and gorse, which in all stages of their
+bloom, their first spring glory, or the no less lovely golden and
+brown tints of autumn, make the most rugged mountain sides beautiful.
+And let not the little "bog down" be forgotten which around Killarney
+makes the bogs resemble waving fields of snow. "Light of love" the
+peasant girls call this bog rush, for a breath sends its down floating
+lightly away. A little white tuft of silky cotton, from its shortness
+of no practical use in the work-a-day world, so it lives its life
+unharmed, gay as the bog-land dwellers themselves.
+
+Very wild and grand is the scenery here. Rocks in a hundred forms
+appear as the banks are passed, and behind, at nearer or further
+distance, rise the greater mountain heights.
+
+The boat passes several islets, named from resemblance, real or
+imaginary, The Jolly Boat, The Cannon Rock, The Man-of-War Rock--a
+mass like a vessel, keel uppermost. Soon the far-famed Eagle's Nest is
+reached, a rugged, precipitous cliff 1,700 feet high. Here the eagles
+still have their nest, for Nature has secured them from the hand of
+man. It is a very majestic rock, thickly clothed with evergreens
+nearly to the summit, where, however, heath and a few scattered shrubs
+hide the nest, and show the great outline, the rugged mass, in stern
+sublimity. Here the Killarney Echo is best heard.
+
+Perhaps among the many writers who have tried to describe the effect
+produced by this echo, Mrs. Hall gives the most vivid impression. She
+says: "The bugler first played a single note; it was caught up and
+repeated loudly; softly, again loudly; again softly, and then as if by
+a hundred instruments rolling around and above the mountains, and
+dying softly away. Then a few notes were blown, a multitude of voices
+replied, sometimes pausing, then mingling in a strain of sublime
+grandeur and delicate sweetness. Then came the firing of a cannon,
+when every mountain around seemed instinct with angry life, and
+replied in voices of thunder, the sound being multiplied a
+thousandfold, first a terrific growl, then a fearful crash, both
+caught up and returned by the surrounding hills, while those nearest
+became silent, awaiting the oncoming of those that were distant, then
+dropping to a gentle lull, as if the winds only created them, then
+breaking forth again into a combined and terrific roar."
+
+  [Illustration: MUCKROSS LAKE AND GLENA MOUNTAIN FROM TORC
+    COTTAGE--EARLY MORNING.]
+
+Soon after passing Eagle's Nest the end of the Long Range is reached,
+and the stream divides, skirting round Dinish Island into Lough Leane
+on the left side, to the right passing under Old Weir Bridge into
+Muckross Lake.
+
+The Old Weir Bridge consists of two arches; only one affords a passage
+for boats, and as the water of the Upper Lake rushes into Muckross
+Lake on its way to the sea through the Laune, the current is extremely
+rapid, and it is quite usual for tourists to disembark and walk,
+meeting the boat on the other side. Those with strong nerves, however,
+enjoy "shooting the rapids." You then find yourself in Torc (or
+Muckross) Lake, and opposite Dinish Island, on which is a pretty
+cottage, where it is usual to halt for rest and refreshment. The chief
+feature of the latter is salmon, broiled in cutlets on a fire made of
+arbutus, the slices skewered on a spray of the same, which is said to
+impart a delicious flavour to the fish.
+
+There are so many objects of interest clustered around the Lakes that
+it is vain trying to compress them into the description of a day's
+excursion. When time is an object, the tourist can manage to "do" the
+whole three lakes, but if time permits, the point we have now reached
+should be the limit of his first day, and a row home over the lovely
+waters of Lough Leane to Ross Island is a fitting close to it. The
+grand old Castle never looks so picturesque as in the evening glow;
+let it be his last memory of the day.
+
+  [Illustration: MUCKROSS, KILLARNEY.
+    From above Torc Waterfall, showing the upper and lower lakes with
+      the peninsula which divides them.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+MUCKROSS
+
+
+Nothing more beautiful than the scene viewed from Muckross ("the place
+of wild swine") can be imagined. Its woods and lawns form a large
+promontory, shooting far into the lake, which the wooded isles beyond
+seem almost to join, the water breaking and glancing between like tiny
+bays. Muckross Abbey Mansion stands in lovely grounds, which, fringing
+the slope to the water's edge, form a beautiful shore to the lake.
+
+The scene which this point commands is unrivalled--indeed, Torc lake
+(Torc, a wild boar) need fear no comparison. Toomies and Glena are
+opposite, so softly outlined by the beautiful waving forests which
+cling to their sides that their magnificent height is half forgotten.
+In contrast the hills which rise above the Eagle's Nest are bare,
+broken, almost savage.
+
+But if it is hard to convey by words an idea of scenery in general,
+more difficult is it with that of Killarney, so varied are the effects
+produced under its changeful skies,
+
+    "Shining through sorrow's beam,
+    Saddening through sorrow's gleam."
+
+Mr. Young, our English visitor of long ago, notices this much. In one
+place he observes: "Torc was obscured by the sun shining immediately
+above him, and, casting a stream of burning light on the water,
+displayed an effect to describe which the pencil of a Claude alone
+would be equal."
+
+The ruined Abbey of Muckross stands in the grounds of Muckross
+demesne, and was founded by a MacCarthy Mor in 1340, according to the
+_Annals of the Four Masters_, upon the site of a much older church,
+which was destroyed by fire. It was built for Conventual Franciscans,
+and was dedicated to the Holy Trinity. The original name was Irrelagh.
+
+The two principal parts of the ruin are the convent and the church,
+the latter about 100 feet in length and 24 feet in breadth, the
+steeple standing between the nave and chancel, resting on four high
+and slender pointed arches.
+
+The cloisters are in a very perfect state, consisting of a beautiful
+quadrangle of marble arches, some pointed, some with semicircular
+heads, enclosing a square, in the centre of which stands the great
+yew-tree, said to be as old as the Abbey itself. It rises to the
+height of 60 feet, its spreading branches overshadowing the cloisters
+and forming a canopy, impervious to the sun. The circumference of its
+trunk is 13 feet, and it is regarded with much awe because of a belief
+that anyone attempting to pluck a leaf or branch, or in any way injure
+this yew, will not be alive on that day twelve months.
+
+The principal entrance is by a handsome Pointed doorway, from which is
+seen the great eastern window, with its simple, beautiful tracery. The
+space within is filled with tombs, many of them nameless. A large
+modern one in the centre of the choir covers a vault, where in ancient
+times were interred the MacCarthys, and, more lately, the O'Donoghues.
+
+Close to this tomb is the slab which formerly covered the vault,
+without inscription, but bearing the arms of the Earl of Clancarty of
+the old creation, this title and that of Viscount Valentia being
+bestowed by Queen Elizabeth in 1565 on Donald MacCarthy Mor, the head
+of the elder branch of that great family. His haughty followers would
+none of it, and slighted the chieftain who had condescended, however
+grudgingly, to accept an honour at the hands of the Sassenach.
+
+The dormitories, cellars, kitchens, refectories, etc., are in good
+preservation, but the upper rooms are unroofed. There is a great
+fireplace in the refectory, where once the monks kept good cheer. Very
+silent and deserted it is now, with the innumerable graves around.
+
+The great Torc Cascade empties itself into Muckross Lake a little more
+than a mile from the Abbey. It comes from the Devil's Punch Bowl,
+which it is worth ascending Mangerton to see. On the western side of
+the mountain is a small circular lake, about 600 yards in diameter
+across the top. From the brink, as you look downwards, there is a
+depth of nearly 300 yards. This is the Devil's Punch Bowl. On the side
+next Muckross there is an immense perpendicular chasm, equal in depth
+to the height of the sides of the Bowl, into which its overflowings
+rush and are conveyed through a narrow channel, called the Devil's
+Stream, to the shore of Muckross Lake, tumbling down the sides of the
+hill, nearly 200 feet, in a great cascade.
+
+In the peninsula of Muckross is a mine, now disused, which, when
+worked by an English company in 1804, gave a large output of the
+finest copper ore.
+
+There are many indications of mineral treasures yet to be discovered
+among the hills and glens of Killarney. When Dr. Berkeley was asked
+his opinion of Muckross at a time when Art was considered far superior
+to Nature, he replied: "The French monarch might possibly be able to
+create another Versailles, but could not, with all his revenues, lay
+out another Muckross."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+ROSS, INNISFALLEN, AND THE LOWER LAKE
+
+
+Ross is only separated from the mainland by a narrow cut through a
+morass, which gives it its claim to be an island.
+
+This division is probably artificial, and made in former days to
+strengthen the fortifications of the Castle. A carriage road from the
+town of Killarney crosses the small connecting bridge and brings the
+tourist under the walls of Ross Castle, where there is a landing-place
+for those who come by water.
+
+Ross Castle is still a splendid old fortress, far less injured by time
+or mischance than most of its contemporaries in Kerry. A tall and
+stately building, it is seen from far, dominating Lough Leane and
+adding additional charm to the view, with its massive buttresses and
+battlements, reminders of the old fighting days. It is but a short
+distance between Ross and Muckross, yet the character of the scene is
+utterly changed. Say what we will of the other lakes, Lough Leane
+remains the lake of enchantment.
+
+Ross is a very ancient Castle, built by some far-back O'Donoghue, the
+precise date unknown. Within is a spiral staircase of stone mounting
+to the top, from whence a marvellous panorama lies before you.
+
+In 1652 Ross Castle was held by Lord Muskerry for the King, during the
+Parliamentary wars, against General Ludlow. It was well garrisoned and
+provisioned, and the defenders were prepared vigorously to repel the
+foe, yet they surrendered almost at once. There was an old prophecy
+that Ross Castle would never be taken till warships were seen on the
+lake, and when the garrison beheld the boats which General Ludlow had
+built and conveyed overland approaching to attack, they yielded. The
+prophecy was fulfilled: it was useless to fight against fate. But it
+is more to legendary than historical lore that Ross Castle owes the
+fascination which surrounds it.
+
+The guides of Killarney deserve mention here, for they add to the
+enjoyment of the various excursions, knowing every legend, each
+association, the origin of every name, and are even capable of
+inventing on the spur of the moment romances the most picturesque,
+wonders the most thrilling, discerning at a glance on whom to expend
+their powers of imagination. "All sorts and conditions of men" come
+under their ken. In the tourist season scarce a land but has its
+representative, to some of whom Ireland was a sealed page till they
+listened to the tales of Killarney from her guides.
+
+Here they point to you the very window from which the great O'Donoghue
+leaped into the lake below. There he reigns in the regions of
+enchantment, greater and happier than in his earthly sovereignty. Once
+in every seven years on a May morning, before the first beams of the
+sun have arisen over the mountain tops, the sweetest strains of fairy
+music are heard, and the great chieftain may be seen on a splendid
+snow-white charger, shod with silver shoes, riding over the lake,
+preceded by a joyous band of youths and maidens scattering flowers
+before him. Well it is for the mortal who sees him; prosperity will
+follow from that day forth.
+
+Just, generous, and greatly beloved were the O'Donoghues of Ross, and
+their memory is perpetuated among a people who do not easily forget.
+Wander where you will, you find some association with the name,
+particularly among rock and crag on the Lower Lake, of which
+O'Donoghue's Horse is the most remarkable. This rock has been fretted
+and worn away by the action of the waters into a curious semblance of
+a horse in the act of drinking. Then there is O'Donoghue's prison, his
+table, his pulpit--each with its story.
+
+You will be told, too, how at the deepest part of this lake, more than
+60 fathoms down, at a spot between Ross and Innisfallen, a great
+carbuncle may be seen, which on a dark night lights up the rocks at
+the bottom of the lake, and shows the palaces and towers of the
+ancient city which the waters now cover.
+
+Ross is the largest island on the lake. It contains about 80 acres. On
+the southern point is a famous copper mine, opened in 1804 by Colonel
+Hall, who found clear proof that it had been worked at a very remote
+period. Rude stone hammers of very ancient make were discovered--Danes'
+hammers, the people call them--and the traces of fire were found. The
+vein, however, gave out after four years, during which time, says
+Crofton Croker, "nearly L60,000 worth of ore was disposed of at
+Swansea, some cargoes producing L40 per ton."
+
+The country round the lakes is very rich in ores of various kinds.
+Lead ore has been discovered, and the mountains abound with iron.
+Specimens of ore which contain tin are also found.
+
+Killarney has treasures, however, which better suit the witchery of
+her beauty. Pearls are found in Lough Leane, and still more often in
+the River Laune, which runs out of it. These are, of course, very
+inferior to the Oriental jewel, but now and again a fine specimen is
+obtained. "A little Kerry pearle" was not considered an unworthy
+present to a great man in 1756; also "a dozen Kerry stones," these
+probably being the beautiful amethysts found in the cliffs near Kerry
+Head. These have always been valued. A set of ear-rings, a necklace,
+and other ornaments composed of these amethysts were presented to
+Queen Caroline (wife of George II.) by the Countess of Kerry, and most
+graciously received. A like gracious reception was given to an Irish
+pearl presented by the Bishop of Limerick to the great Anselm,
+Archbishop of Canterbury in 1074.
+
+  [Illustration: THE ISLAND OF INNISFALLEN.
+    In the lower lake of Killarney. It once possessed a monastery
+      where the "Annals of Innisfallen," now at the Bodleian, were
+      written.]
+
+Very brilliant are the "Kerry diamonds," and very pretty, but
+valueless save to the children who pick them up, and perhaps to that
+fairy world whose standards are not the sordid ones of mortals. To
+them these lovely crystals, whether clear or coloured, may be the true
+treasure.
+
+Beautiful Innisfallen, with hill and glen, creek and harbour, and
+cliffs overhung by trees shading the many bays. The Gem of Killarney
+it is called. "Not heaven's reflex, but a bit fallen out of heaven
+itself," were Macaulay's words, and they express the feeling called
+forth by its rich verdure, its wonders of foliage and of colour, the
+ineffable beauty which clothes it as a mantle. Yet so great are its
+contrasts that in this island of 24 acres are woods as gloomy as the
+ancient Druidical forests, thick with giant ash and enormous hollies.
+
+As you approach the island you seem to draw near such a forest, so
+close are these great trees, extending into the water. On landing, you
+find they encircle a lawn of the deepest and most vivid green. Open
+glades through the trees give enchanting vistas--the lofty peaks of
+Toomies and Glena, the misty summits of the Purple Mountain, Ross
+Castle and its wooded shores, sunny islands and sparkling waters,
+sometimes so still as to reflect the woods and mountains as in a
+mirror. In the morning hour the mountains bordering on the Lower Lake
+are left in shadow, but as the day goes on the sun glides
+imperceptibly along the line of the great chain, and darts his rays on
+that side of the mountains which lies next to the lake. All their bold
+irregularities are then revealed--their protruding rocks, their deep
+glens, and the lake is illuminated amid its dark and wooded isles by
+the long gleams which pass athwart its waves.
+
+At such hours it looks too fair a world for sin and sorrow, but yonder
+stands the Castle, with ruined battlements and many a grim sign of the
+stormy past, while fair Innisfallen itself contains a ruin where once
+holy men maintained a warfare equally deadly against the powers of
+evil, though fought with no mortal weapons.
+
+Little remains of the Abbey of Innisfallen, founded in the sixth
+century by St. Finian. Even the walls are levelled save for the
+remains of an oratory, whose western gable contains a doorway with
+rich decorations. This monastery, however decayed, will always be
+famous, because the _Annals of Innisfallen_ were written here.
+
+The original work is in the Bodleian Library. It is on parchment and
+in medium quarto, and contains fifty-seven leaves. Extracts from the
+Old Testament and a history of the ancient world down to the arrival
+of St. Patrick in Ireland in 432 form the earlier part. From this
+period it deals exclusively with the affairs of Ireland, terminating
+with 1319. It seems to have been the production of two monks, one
+carrying it to 1216, the other continuing it to 1320. It is one of the
+earliest of Irish histories, and considered by savants as taking high
+rank among them.
+
+In 1100 the Abbey was plundered by Mildwin O'Donoghue of a great
+treasure of gold, silver, and rich goods of the adjacent country,
+which had been deposited there as secure sanctuary. Many of the clergy
+were slain by the MacCarthys, "But," writes the monk, "God soon
+punished this act of sacrilege and impiety by bringing many of its
+authors to an untimely end."
+
+Well, there is peace now in fair Innisfallen. The visitor bears away
+its impress with the memory of one of the fairest spots on earth.
+
+    "Sweet Innisfallen, fare thee well,
+    May calm and sunshine still be thine;
+    How fair thou art let others tell,
+    To feel how fair yet still be mine."
+
+Glena, the "glen of good fortune," is one of the most eagerly sought
+out beauty spots of Killarney. Glena Bay is the first part of the
+Lower Lake if it is entered from the Long Range, but by whatever way
+you reach it the picture which meets the eye is unsurpassed.
+
+The mountains of Glena and Toomies are densely wooded to their base,
+the trees hanging over their sides and coming down in rich luxuriance
+to the water's edge. A very forest of the finest arbutus, with berry
+and blossom together in autumn, with oak, ash, pine, birch and alder,
+white thorn, yew, and holly, it must be seen to realize the colour
+effect or the matchless tintings of gorse and heather, a great mosaic
+quivering in the sunshine. The varieties of this immense scenery of
+forest are impossible to describe, the woods extending about six miles
+in length, and from half a mile to a mile and a half in breadth, while
+the inequalities of the ground produce wondrous effects of light and
+shadow.
+
+Glena is all soft loveliness, but rugged rock and crag, and the stern
+grandeur of Torc Mountain on the other side, strike again that minor
+chord never far from Killarney's brightest scenes.
+
+  [Illustration: IN A TYPICAL COTTAGE.]
+
+Lough Leane has upwards of thirty isles, large and small, and as the
+boat is rowed past Glena shore you see them in all their varied form
+and colour, from Ross to tiny Mouse Island. It is a fair sight. There
+is a little bay at the foot of the Toomies where you can land to reach
+O'Sullivan's Cascade, one of the greatest of the Killarney waterfalls,
+not only from its size, but from the peculiar formation of the bed
+down which it dashes. It really consists of three falls. "The
+uppermost, passing over a bridge of rocks, falls about 20 feet
+perpendicularly into a natural basin; then, bursting between two
+hanging rocks, the torrent hastens down a second precipice into a
+second receptacle, from which it rolls over into the lowest chamber of
+the fall. It is about 70 feet high. The roar of the descending water
+can be heard from afar, and is almost deafening when near. Beneath a
+projecting rock overhanging the lowest basin is a grotto, with a seat
+rudely cut in the rock. From this little grotto the view of the
+cascade is peculiarly beautiful. It appears a continued flight of
+three foamy stories. The recess is overshadowed by an arch of foliage
+so thick as to interrupt the admission of light."
+
+The forest about Toomies is still the haunt of the old red deer of
+Ireland, and a grand stag hunt is occasionally organized, the cries of
+the hounds, the shouting of the hunters, the firing of the signalling
+cannon, combining to awake the mountain echoes for many miles around.
+It is a cruel sport, though the stag is now, as a rule, saved from
+death. Yet its gallant attempts to save itself, its struggles to get
+free from the cordon of enemies around, its agonies of terror as,
+bounding for refuge to the heights, it is confronted by shouting men,
+and turned to confront the savage pack, are cruel enough. It leaps
+from rock to rock and chasm to chasm with sobbing breath and big
+tears, and plunges into the lake in desperation, to be met by the
+boats watching for it. Of late years it is set free, but it is not
+sentimentality to imagine that the grim experience it has passed
+through will render the life given to it a thing of terror, haunted by
+the bay of the hounds and the shouts of the hunters.
+
+  [Illustration: MOUNTAIN HOMES OF THE KILLARNEY DISTRICT.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+THE KILLARNEY FOLK
+
+
+The people who dwell on the shores of these lovely lakes are a
+handsome race, tall and finely formed, with clear-cut features and
+dark and most expressive eyes, often of the Irish grey or deep violet,
+with long black lashes. Pencilled eyebrows and abundance of dark-brown
+hair usually accompany these, and that clear complexion which the
+moist western breezes confer. They love music and dancing, the "boys
+and girls," who, meeting on a roadside, only require a merry tune to
+"foot it away" and forget their cares.
+
+But with all their lightheartedness their standard of duty is very
+high, and family ties are sacred. Seldom, if ever, is infidelity known
+among the married, and a certain honour is given to the head of the
+poorest household. Husband and wife each has a distinct place, which
+neither would dream of usurping, the husband having the chief, of
+course. In one case, however, and that a very important one to an
+Irishman, right of precedence is universally granted to the wife. This
+is when it happens that she is by birth of a superior tribe to her
+husband. "I am a MacCarthy; my husband is only a so-and-so," she will
+say proudly.
+
+There are many "shealings" around and on the sides of the mountains,
+where the "mountainy men," as they are called, cultivate patches of
+land with a success due to their patient industry. They have hens, a
+few goats, and perhaps some lean mountain sheep, and all these are
+liable to visitations from the eagles when rearing their young. Often,
+too, they have one or two cows of the Kerry breed, which find sweet
+pickings among the rocks, and give more milk on the scant herbage than
+the sleek and well-favoured kine of richer counties. This breed is
+small, with long horns and wild, handsome heads.
+
+Simple-hearted, generous and faithful are these men and women, with a
+dignified courtesy of manner which tells of the Eastern strain in
+their blood. Their courtesy and good manners are, indeed, very
+charming. For instance, you may have been out all day with a man, and
+when you reach his home he will step in first, and, turning, offer you
+his hand and bid you welcome, as though it were the first time he had
+met you that day. He welcomes you, and then you will be placed in the
+seat of honour, and refreshments brought you, the refusal of which
+would be an insult.
+
+The love of classical learning among the peasantry was great. It
+continues still, though the classics are not cultivated in this
+practical age as in the days when they were taught by travelling
+scholars at the hedge schools. All the old writers on Killarney
+mention their wonder at meeting poorly-clad men and boys able to
+converse fluently in Latin, and studying the best Latin, and even
+Greek, authors. The power of reading Homer in the original was greatly
+coveted, and often attained. The magic of their surroundings may have
+had much to do with kindling the peasant's imagination to passionate
+interest in a dead language.
+
+The first distinct mention of the sea-coast adjoining Killarney occurs
+in the works of Ptolemy, who wrote in the second century. He speaks
+of the river of Kenmare under the title of Iernus, while again it is
+called Fluctus Desmonda, or the River of Desmond. At this Iernus of
+Ptolemy is placed by ancient authors the landing of several Milesian
+colonists, and though Irish history before the Christian era is
+chiefly traditional, there seems some foundation for this.
+
+If we believe the bards and seers, the Milesian immigration was the
+fifth which came to colonize Hibernia out of the overflowing tribes of
+Asia. Of the fourth, the Tuatha de Danans, they tell a curious tale.
+These colonizers are depicted as accomplished sooth-sayers and
+necromancers who came out of Greece. They could quell storms, cure
+diseases, work in metals, foretell future events, and, by their
+supernatural powers as well as by virtue of the Lia Fail, or Stone of
+Destiny, they subdued the Firbolgs, who had preceded them, and
+exercised sovereignty, till they in turn were displaced by the Gaelic
+or fifth immigration.
+
+Sometimes these called themselves Gael, from an ancestor; sometimes
+Milesians, from Milesius, projector of the immigration; sometimes
+Scota, from his wife. They came from Spain, and all their magical arts
+did not save the Tuatha from defeat. "In vain they surrounded
+themselves and their coveted island with magic-made tempest and
+terrors; in vain they reduced it in size so as to be almost invisible
+from sea. Amergin, one of the sons of Milesius, was a Druid skilled in
+all the arts of the East, and, led by him, his brothers countermined
+the magicians and beat them with their own weapons."
+
+Among the mountains of South Kerry the peasants point out a stone
+where Queen Scota, daughter of Pharaoh of Egypt, and wife of Milesius
+of Spain, is believed to lie buried. She was killed in battle three
+days after landing with her sons on this coast. Upon the flat of the
+stone is an Ogham inscription, which reads, "Leacht Scoihin" ("The
+grave mound of Scota"). Ogham experts think this inscription a
+forgery, but the old tradition makes it at least probable that within
+sound of the thunder of the Atlantic, far from her own people, lies
+the daughter of the Pharaohs.
+
+From an antiquarian point of view Kerry is one of the most interesting
+places in the British Isles, and very rich in relics of the past. An
+archaeological society has been formed, which is endeavouring to rescue
+the relics and monuments from neglect and decay. Killarney has been
+found a singularly promising field to explore, though much has
+perished.
+
+The Celtic nature is curiously complex, and those who do not
+themselves possess it find it hard to understand. It has one quality
+in which no other race has ever equalled it, and that is a marvellous
+power of absorbing alien nationalities to itself, so that, while
+conquered, it yet conquers. It is a matter of current knowledge that
+the English became more Irish than the Irish themselves. They
+intermarried with the families of native chiefs, gave their children
+to be nursed by Irish foster-mothers, spoke the Irish tongue, espoused
+the Irish interests. Had this power of amalgamation been encouraged,
+and not sternly repressed by the English Government, there was a
+period when it might have changed completely the destiny of Ireland;
+but it was not to be.
+
+There is an interesting poem by an Irishman, "The Geraldines," from
+which I quote one verse:
+
+    "These Geraldines! these Geraldines! not long our air they breathed,
+    Not long they fed on venison in Irish water seethed,
+    Not often had their children been by Irish mothers nursed,
+    When from their full and genial hearts an Irish feeling burst.
+    The English monarchs strove in vain, by law, and force, and bribe,
+    To win from Irish thoughts and ways this more than Irish tribe;
+    For still they cling to fosterage, to _breitheamh_, cloak, and bard;
+    What King dare say to Geraldine, 'Your Irish wife discard'?"
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+THE FAIRIES--AND FAREWELL!
+
+
+The Raths, or "fairy forts," of Killarney have hitherto seldom been
+explored. They are circular grassy mounds enclosing a field, generally
+small. Underneath are found stone chambers, their beehive roofs and
+walls made of unmortared stone. It is supposed that here the ancient
+Celts fortified themselves and their cattle, retreating in winter into
+the stone chambers. Be this as it may, for centuries the Irish have
+believed them to be tenanted by a fairy race, whose palaces are here,
+and who guard hidden treasure.
+
+These are the Sidhe, or people of the hill, the noblest among these
+mysterious folk. Some say they are the spirits of the Tuatha de Danan,
+that strange race which occupied Ireland till the Milesians came,
+when, conquered by a greater magic than their own, they disappeared.
+Strange to say, no mortal descendant of these people has ever been
+traced in any Irish family.
+
+  [Illustration: CUTTING PEAT FROM THE BOG.
+    It takes less than a week for a man to cut his fuel supply for a
+      whole year.]
+
+But there is another race, and these are the fairies proper, very
+human in their traits, tricky and malicious if slighted or offended,
+but good friends if treated properly. I cannot resist quoting a story
+("Hanafin and his Cows") told in a late Kerry Archaeological Magazine
+by Lady Gordon--a tale of the fairies, originally collected in Kerry
+by Mr. J. Curtin.
+
+"Hanafin was a farmer owning a large herd of cows, which were driven
+up every morning to be milked in front of his house. For several days
+the tub into which the milk was poured was mysteriously overturned and
+the milk spilled. Hanafin's wife was naturally excessively indignant,
+but, in spite of every precaution, the milk continued to be upset. One
+morning, however, as Hanafin was walking past a fairy fort, he heard a
+child crying inside it, and a woman's voice saying: 'Be quiet awhile!
+Hanafin's cows are going home; we'll soon have milk in plenty.'
+Hanafin went home and personally supervised the milking, and on the
+usual overturning stopped his wife from scolding, telling her this
+time it was no fault of the girls, who had been pushed by one of the
+cows against the tub. 'Leave it to me,' he said; 'I'll try and manage
+the business.'
+
+"The following morning, on hearing the child cry again in the fort,
+Hanafin, 'like the brave man he was,' went inside. He saw no one, but
+he said, 'A child is crying for milk. A cow of mine will calve
+to-morrow. I'll let no one milk that cow; you can do what you like
+with her milk.'
+
+"The tub was never overturned again, and for two years Hanafin
+prospered in every way, taking good care of the cow, and never letting
+her be milked.
+
+"Unfortunately, however, Hanafin, being soft-hearted, went security
+for some of his neighbours who had got into trouble, with the result
+that their creditors came down on him, and the bailiffs arrived one
+day to drive off his cattle. Hanafin repaired to the fort, and said:
+'I'm going to lose all my cattle, but I'll try and keep the cow I gave
+you, and feed her still, so that the child may have the milk.'
+
+"Three bailiffs came and went down to the pasture across the field,
+but when they drove the cows up as far as the fairy fort 'each
+bailiff was caught and thrown hither and over by people he couldn't
+see. One moment he was at one side of the ditch, the next at the
+other. They were so roughly handled and bruised that they were hardly
+alive, and they not seeing who or what was doing it! The cattle,
+raising their tails, bawled and ran off to the pasture.'
+
+"The following morning ten policemen and bailiffs went to take
+Hanafin's cattle, with exactly the same results, so that the men
+'barely left the place alive.' Never again did police or bailiff
+meddle with Hanafin's cattle, and the creditors never collected their
+money."
+
+These are the familiar fairies who stole children out of their
+cradles, young matrons from their husbands, and girls from their
+lovers; who bewitched cows and blighted potatoes, but who "did you
+many a good turn too." The peasant will not lightly lose faith in
+them, nor will the fairies lightly forsake the land of beauty, of
+sunshine, and of shadow. Quickly as events march and ideas change in
+this wonderful age, hurrying we know not where, and though here and
+there someone may be found to dare--or say he will--enter a fairy fort
+or cut down a fairy thorn, I think that with the boldest of these
+unbelievers it is a case of the man who denied the power of the priest
+to turn him into a rat, but who, saying "It's as well to make sure,"
+took the precaution of shutting up the cat at night. "Taking it all
+round," writes Lady Gordon, "it would be a drab world if there were no
+fairies in it, no supernatural region in which nothing is too
+preposterous to occur.... Earth-bound humanity, seeking to escape from
+earth cares, still dreams in one form or other of a land of strange
+happenings."
+
+How much remains still to be said about Killarney, its varied
+interests, its shifting, matchless scenery! The lover of beauty and
+romance, the historian, the archaeologist, the antiquary--it is a field
+for each. It has begun to dawn on the mind of many explorers what
+great questions hinge on Celtic antiquities, what light they may shed
+upon the ancient history of Europe, while students of the Irish
+language say it will yet prove the key to ancient ones which are
+puzzling philologists. Killarney is rich in Ogham inscriptions, in
+curious old remains and relics (utilized hitherto by mason and
+builder). Such as are not hopelessly lost are gradually being
+unearthed by the ardent seekers of to-day.
+
+Whatever changes may be in the future, Killarney must ever remain a
+land of enchantment. Perhaps a few recent words of Alfred Austin may
+fitly close this attempt to sketch the principal features of this fair
+land.
+
+"The tender grace of wood and water is set in a framework of hills,
+now stern, now ineffably gentle, now dimpling with smiles, now
+frowning and rugged with impending storm, now muffled and mysterious
+with mist, only to meet you again with brilliant sunshine. Here the
+trout leaps, there the eagle soars, and there beyond the wild deer
+dash through the arbutus covert, through which they have come to the
+margin of the lake to drink, and, scared by your footstep or your oar,
+are away back to bracken or heather-covered moorland. But the first,
+the final, the deepest and most enduring impression of Killarney is
+that of beauty unspeakably tender, which puts on at times a garb of
+grandeur and a look of awe, only to heighten by contrast its soft
+loveliness. How the missel thrushes sing, as well they may! How the
+streams and runnels leap and laugh! For the sound of journeying water
+is never out of your ears, the feeling of the moist, the fresh, the
+vernal is never out of your heart."
+
+No, never! True words are these with which reluctantly to say farewell
+to beautiful Killarney.
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+
+    Aghadoe, 12
+
+    Antiquities of Kerry, 53
+
+    Arbutus, The, 26
+
+    Austin, Alfred, 61
+
+
+    Black Valley, 20
+
+
+    Chess in Ancient Ireland, 19
+
+    Clancarty, Earl of, 36
+
+    Classical learning amongst older generation, 51
+
+    Coleman's Eye, 28
+
+
+    Devil's Punch Bowl, 36
+
+    Devil's Stream, 37
+
+    Dunloe Castle, 14
+
+    Dunloe, Gap of, 17
+
+
+    Eagle Island, 27
+
+
+    Fairies, The, 56
+
+    Foliage of mountain-sides, 24
+
+
+    "Geraldines, The," 54
+
+    Glena, 46
+
+    Golf Links, 12
+
+    Guides, The, 39
+
+
+    "Hanafin and His Cows," 57
+
+
+    Innisfallen, Abbey of, 44
+
+    Innisfallen, Annals of, 44
+
+    Innisfallen Island, 43
+
+    Islands, The, 23
+
+
+    Kate Kearney's cottage, 16
+
+    Killarney folk, 49
+
+
+    Lakes and mountains, 23
+
+    Last Irish snake, 20
+
+    "Light of Love," 29
+
+    Logan Stone, 21
+
+    Long Range, The, 28
+
+    "Lord Brandon's Cottage," 22
+
+    Lough Leane, 47
+
+    Ludlow, Parliamentary General, 39
+
+
+    Macaulay, Lord, his words on Innisfallen, 43
+
+    MacCarthy's Island, 27
+
+    MacGillicuddy's Reeks, 18
+
+    Mineral treasures, 37, 41
+
+    Moore, Thomas, the poet, 16
+
+    Muckross Abbey, 33
+
+    Muskerry, Lord, the Royalist, 39
+
+
+    O'Donoghue and his white charger, 6, 40
+
+    O'Donoghues of Ross, The, 40
+
+    Ogham inscriptions, 15, 53
+
+    Origin of the lakes, legendary, 9
+
+    _Osmundi Regalia_, 28
+
+    O'Sullivan's Cascade, 47
+
+
+    Precious Stones of Kerry, 42, 43
+
+    Ptolemy's map of Ireland, 51
+
+    Purple Mountain, 18
+
+
+    Raths, or fairy forts, 56
+
+    Ross Castle, 38
+
+
+    Scota, Queen, daughter of Pharaoh, 53
+
+    Settlements of Ireland, early, 52
+
+    Sidhe, the, or People of the Hill, 56
+
+    Stag-hunting, 48
+
+    Stillman, the famous war correspondent, 7
+
+
+    Toomies Mountain, 18, 46
+
+    Torc Cascade, 36
+
+    _Trichomanes speciosum_, or Brutle Fern, 29
+
+
+    Voice of Nature, The, 7
+
+
+BILLING AND SONS, LTD., PRINTERS, GUILDFORD
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's Note
+
+Minor punctuation errors have been fixed.
+
+The following amendments have been made, for consistency:
+
+    Page 24--McGillicuddy's amended to MacGillicuddy's--... even
+    in point of height the MacGillicuddy's Reeks ...
+
+    Page 50--McCarthy amended to MacCarthy--"I am a MacCarthy; my
+    husband is only a so-and-so," ...
+
+The frontispiece illustration has been moved to follow the title page.
+Other illustrations have been moved where necessary so that they are
+not in the middle of a paragraph.
+
+The List of Illustrations notes that "The Eagle's Nest, Killarney"
+appears "On the cover." This is preserved as printed; however the
+illustration was actually located facing page 22, and the transcriber
+has left it in this location.
+
+Ditto marks in the Index have been replaced with the appropriate words.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Killarney, by Mary Gorges
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK KILLARNEY ***
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committer	nfenwick <nfenwick@pglaf.org>	2025-03-01 18:35:36 -0800
commit	1566f721b6bc8719b257c7756d3bc8b1fd6b7057 (patch)
tree	b3d60c2327108d311e2849b9c15d86a64326a9b8