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- float: left; - margin-right: 1em } - -.align-right { clear: right; - float: right; - margin-left: 1em } - -.align-center { margin-left: auto; - margin-right: auto } - -div.shrinkwrap { display: table; } - -/* SECTIONS */ - -body { margin: 5% 10% 5% 10% } - -/* compact list items containing just one p */ -li p.pfirst { margin-top: 0; margin-bottom: 0 } - -.first { margin-top: 0 !important; - text-indent: 0 !important } -.last { margin-bottom: 0 !important } - -span.dropcap { float: left; margin: 0 0.1em 0 0; line-height: 1 } -img.dropcap { float: left; margin: 0 0.5em 0 0; max-width: 25% } -span.dropspan { font-variant: small-caps } - -.no-page-break { page-break-before: avoid !important } - -/* PAGINATION */ - -.pageno { position: absolute; right: 95%; font: medium sans-serif; text-indent: 0 } -.pageno:after { color: gray; content: '[' attr(title) ']' } -.lineno { position: absolute; left: 95%; font: medium sans-serif; text-indent: 0 } -.lineno:after { color: gray; content: '[' attr(title) ']' } -.toc-pageref { float: right } - -@media screen { - .coverpage, .frontispiece, .titlepage, .verso, .dedication, .plainpage - { margin: 10% 0; } - - div.clearpage, div.cleardoublepage - { margin: 10% 0; border: none; border-top: 1px solid gray; } - - .vfill { margin: 5% 10% } -} - -@media print { - div.clearpage { page-break-before: always; padding-top: 10% } - div.cleardoublepage { page-break-before: right; padding-top: 10% } - - .vfill { margin-top: 20% } - h2.title { margin-top: 20% } -} - -/* DIV */ -pre { font-family: monospace; font-size: 0.9em; white-space: pre-wrap } - -</style> -<title>PEEPS AT MANY LANDS—INDIA</title> -<meta name="PG.Rights" content="Public Domain" /> -<meta name="PG.Title" content="Peeps at Many Lands—India" /> -<meta name="PG.Producer" content="Al Haines" /> -<link rel="coverpage" href="images/img-cover.jpg" /> -<meta name="DC.Creator" content="John Finnemore" /> -<meta name="DC.Created" content="1907" /> -<meta name="MARCREL.ill" content="Mortimer Menpes" /> -<meta name="PG.Id" content="44968" /> -<meta name="PG.Released" content="2014-02-19" /> -<meta name="DC.Language" content="en" /> -<meta name="DC.Title" content="Peeps at Many Lands—India" /> - -<link href="http://purl.org/dc/terms/" rel="schema.DCTERMS" /> -<link href="http://id.loc.gov/vocabulary/relators" rel="schema.MARCREL" /> -<meta content="Peeps at Many Lands—India" name="DCTERMS.title" /> -<meta content="india.rst" name="DCTERMS.source" /> -<meta content="en" scheme="DCTERMS.RFC4646" name="DCTERMS.language" /> -<meta content="2014-02-19T19:20:47.145716+00:00" scheme="DCTERMS.W3CDTF" name="DCTERMS.modified" /> -<meta content="Project Gutenberg" name="DCTERMS.publisher" /> -<meta content="Public Domain in the USA." name="DCTERMS.rights" /> -<link href="http://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/44968" rel="DCTERMS.isFormatOf" /> -<meta content="John Finnemore" name="DCTERMS.creator" /> -<meta content="Mortimer Menpes" name="MARCREL.ill" /> -<meta content="2014-02-19" scheme="DCTERMS.W3CDTF" name="DCTERMS.created" /> -<meta content="width=device-width" name="viewport" /> -<meta content="EpubMaker 0.3.20 by Marcello Perathoner <webmaster@gutenberg.org>" name="generator" /> -</head> -<body> -<div class="document" id="peeps-at-many-landsindia"> -<h1 class="center document-title level-1 pfirst title"><span class="x-large">PEEPS AT MANY LANDS—INDIA</span></h1> - -<!-- this is the default PG-RST stylesheet --> -<!-- figure and image styles for non-image formats --> -<!-- default transition --> -<!-- default attribution --> -<!-- -*- encoding: utf-8 -*- --> -<div class="clearpage"> -</div> -<!-- -*- encoding: utf-8 -*- --> -<div class="align-None container language-en pgheader" id="pg-header" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> -<p class="noindent pfirst"><span>This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the </span><a class="reference internal" href="#project-gutenberg-license">Project Gutenberg License</a><span> -included with this eBook or online at -</span><a class="reference external" href="http://www.gutenberg.org/license">http://www.gutenberg.org/license</a><span>.</span></p> -<p class="noindent pnext"></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<div class="align-None container" id="pg-machine-header"> -<p class="noindent pfirst"><span>Title: Peeps at Many Lands—India -<br /> -<br />Author: John Finnemore -<br /> -<br />Release Date: February 19, 2014 [EBook #44968] -<br /> -<br />Language: English -<br /> -<br />Character set encoding: UTF-8</span></p> -</div> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="noindent pfirst" id="pg-start-line"><span>*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK </span><span>PEEPS AT MANY LANDS—INDIA</span><span> ***</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -<p class="noindent pfirst" id="pg-produced-by"><span>Produced by Al Haines.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 1em"> -</div> -<p class="noindent pfirst"><span></span></p> -</div> -<div class="align-None container coverpage"> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 3em"> -</div> -<div class="align-center auto-scaled figure margin" style="width: 61%" id="figure-127"> -<img class="align-center block" style="display: block; width: 100%" alt="Cover art" src="images/img-cover.jpg" /> -<div class="caption centerleft figure-caption margin"> -<span class="italics">Cover art</span></div> -</div> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -</div> -<div class="align-None container frontispiece"> -<div class="align-center auto-scaled figure margin" style="width: 63%" id="figure-128"> -<span id="a-tailor-at-work"></span><img class="align-center block" style="display: block; width: 100%" alt="A TAILOR AT WORK. *Page 1.*" src="images/img-front.jpg" /> -<div class="caption centerleft figure-caption margin"> -<span class="italics">A TAILOR AT WORK. </span><em class="italics">Page 1.</em></div> -</div> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -</div> -<div class="align-None container titlepage"> -<p class="center pfirst"><span class="large">PEEPS AT MANY LANDS</span></p> -<p class="center pnext"><span class="x-large">INDIA</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst"><span class="medium">BY</span></p> -<p class="center pnext"><span class="large">JOHN FINNEMORE</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 3em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst"><span class="medium">WITH TWELVE FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS -<br />IN COLOUR -<br />BY -<br />MORTIMER MENPES</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 3em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst"><span class="medium">LONDON -<br />ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK -<br />1907</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -</div> -<div class="align-None container verso"> -<p class="center pfirst"><em class="italics small">Published September</em><span class="small"> 17, 1907.</span></p> -<p class="center pnext"><em class="italics small">Reprinted November</em><span class="small">, 1907.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst"><span class="bold large">CONTENTS</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="noindent pfirst"><span class="small">CHAPTER</span></p> -<ol class="upperroman simple"> -<li><p class="first noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#the-gateway-of-india">THE GATEWAY OF INDIA</a></p> -</li> -<li><p class="first noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#in-the-land-of-the-rajputs">IN THE LAND OF THE RAJPUTS</a></p> -</li> -<li><p class="first noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#in-the-land-of-the-rajputs-continued">IN THE LAND OF THE RAJPUTS (continued)</a></p> -</li> -<li><p class="first noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#in-the-punjab">IN THE PUNJAB</a></p> -</li> -<li><p class="first noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#among-the-himalayas">AMONG THE HIMALAYAS</a></p> -</li> -<li><p class="first noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#among-the-himalayas-continued">AMONG THE HIMALAYAS (continued)</a></p> -</li> -<li><p class="first noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#the-great-plains-of-the-ganges">THE GREAT PLAINS OF THE GANGES</a></p> -</li> -<li><p class="first noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#the-land-of-the-mogul-kings">THE LAND OF THE MOGUL KINGS</a></p> -</li> -<li><p class="first noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#the-land-of-the-mogul-kings-continued">THE LAND OF THE MOGUL KINGS (continued)</a></p> -</li> -<li><p class="first noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#in-the-mutiny-country">IN THE MUTINY COUNTRY</a></p> -</li> -<li><p class="first noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#the-sacred-city-of-the-hindoos">THE SACRED CITY OF THE HINDOOS</a></p> -</li> -<li><p class="first noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#the-capital-of-india">THE CAPITAL OF INDIA</a></p> -</li> -<li><p class="first noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#across-the-deccan">ACROSS THE DECCAN</a></p> -</li> -<li><p class="first noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#at-the-court-of-a-native-prince">AT THE COURT OF A NATIVE PRINCE</a></p> -</li> -<li><p class="first noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#the-religious-mendicants">THE RELIGIOUS MENDICANTS</a></p> -</li> -<li><p class="first noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#in-the-bazaar">IN THE BAZAAR</a></p> -</li> -<li><p class="first noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#in-the-jungle">IN THE JUNGLE</a></p> -</li> -<li><p class="first noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#in-the-jungle-continued">IN THE JUNGLE (continued)</a></p> -</li> -<li><p class="first noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#in-an-indian-village">IN AN INDIAN VILLAGE</a></p> -</li> -<li><p class="first noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#in-an-indian-village-continued">IN AN INDIAN VILLAGE (continued)</a></p> -</li> -</ol> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst"><span class="bold large">LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</span></p> -<p class="center pnext"><span class="medium">BY MORTIMER MENPES</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#a-tailor-at-work">A TAILOR AT WORK</a><span> . . . . . . . . . . . . . . </span><em class="italics">frontispiece</em></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 1em"> -</div> -<p class="noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#a-busy-bazaar">A BUSY BAZAAR</a></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 1em"> -</div> -<p class="noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#a-distinguished-maharajah">A DISTINGUISHED MAHARAJAH</a></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 1em"> -</div> -<p class="noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#a-sikh-warrior">A SIKH WARRIOR</a></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 1em"> -</div> -<p class="noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#the-golden-temple">THE GOLDEN TEMPLE</a></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 1em"> -</div> -<p class="noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#watering-cattle">WATERING CATTLE</a></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 1em"> -</div> -<p class="noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#the-taj-mahal">THE TAJ MAHAL</a></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 1em"> -</div> -<p class="noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#benares">BENARES</a></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 1em"> -</div> -<p class="noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#native-troops">NATIVE TROOPS</a></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 1em"> -</div> -<p class="noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#a-bazaar-delhi">A BAZAAR, DELHI</a></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 1em"> -</div> -<p class="noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#a-native-woman-wearing-nose-ornament">A NATIVE WOMAN WEARING NOSE ORNAMENT</a></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 1em"> -</div> -<p class="noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#a-native-bullock-cart">A NATIVE BULLOCK-CART</a></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 1em"> -</div> -<p class="noindent pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#sketch-map-of-india">Sketch-Map of India</a><span> on page viii</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -<div class="align-center auto-scaled figure margin" style="width: 86%" id="figure-129"> -<span id="sketch-map-of-india"></span><img class="align-center block" style="display: block; width: 100%" alt="SKETCH-MAP OF INDIA." src="images/img-map.jpg" /> -<div class="caption centerleft figure-caption margin"> -<span class="italics">SKETCH-MAP OF INDIA.</span></div> -</div> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst" id="the-gateway-of-india"><span class="bold x-large">INDIA</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 3em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst"><span class="bold large">CHAPTER I</span></p> -<p class="center pnext"><span class="bold medium">THE GATEWAY OF INDIA</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>To the vast majority of European travellers Bombay -is the gateway of India. It is here they get their first -glimpse of the bewildering variety of races, of colours, -of types, of customs, which make up India. After the -journey through the Suez Canal, and the long run -across the Arabian Sea, the traveller is very glad to -spend a day or two at Bombay, gaining first impressions -of this new, strange country. He may be interested in -the fine new buildings of the modern town, or he may -not; he is certain to be interested in the native quarter.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Here he gets his first glimpse of that great feature of -Indian life, the bazaar—rows and rows of narrow streets -filled with shops and crowds. The shops are small -booths, often built of mud, or archways, or, again, are -mere holes in a wall. Everything is open to full view; -there are neither windows nor doors. The merchant -or shopkeeper squats beside his goods; the artisan -does his work in sight of the passers-by. The crowds -are stranger than the shops. Here you may see -Hindoos, Parsees, Burmese, Singhalese, Lascars, -Moslems, Arabs, Somalis, Jews of many countries, -Turks, Chinese, Japanese, and a score of other nations. -Amid the throng of many colours move white people -from every land of Europe, and the babel of tongues -is as astonishing as the mingling of costumes.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Here is struck at once the note of colour which -enlivens every street scene in India. The people wear -robes of every shade, and turbans or caps of every -hue—black, white, red, green, yellow, purple, pink, every -colour of the rainbow—and a hundred shades of every -colour meet and mingle as the crowds flow to and fro.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Where there is an open space the snake-charmer -squats beside his cobras, playing on his strange pipe, -and putting his venomous pets through their tricks; -or a conjurer is causing a mango-plant to spring up -and put forth fruit from apparently a little barren heap -of earth. Busy Indian coolies, naked save for a dirty -turban and a wisp of cotton cloth round the loins, -hurry along with water-skins, and the skins, filled with -water, take roughly the shape of the sheep or goat -which had once filled them with flesh and bones. -Other coolies are driving queer little carts drawn by a -pair of tiny, mild-eyed, hump-backed oxen; and others, -again, squat beside the way with their chins on their -knees, waiting to be hired.</span></p> -<div class="align-center auto-scaled figure margin" style="width: 63%" id="figure-130"> -<span id="a-busy-bazaar"></span><img class="align-center block" style="display: block; width: 100%" alt="A BUSY BAZAAR. *Chapter XVI*." src="images/img-002.jpg" /> -<div class="caption centerleft figure-caption margin"> -<span class="italics">A BUSY BAZAAR. </span><em class="italics">Chapter XVI</em><span class="italics">.</span></div> -</div> -<p class="pnext"><span>When it comes to sight-seeing proper, the traveller -will visit the island of Elephanta, six miles from the -city. Here stands a great temple cut in the solid rock, -its roof supported by huge pillars left standing when -the chamber was hollowed out. The temple is adorned -with colossal figures and carvings of Hindoo gods and -of animals. Its excavation must have been a tremendous -piece of work, and it is considered that it was carried -out some eleven hundred years ago.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Among the crowds of Bombay no people are more -distinctive than the Parsees. The Parsees may always -be known by the strange head-gear and long coats of -the men and by the splendid dresses of the women, -who move about as freely as European women, and are -not shut up like Hindoo women of the richer classes.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The Parsee man wears on his head a long, high, -shiny hat in the form of a cylinder; it has no brim, -and is one of the oddest head-coverings that may be -seen. In origin he is a Persian, for the Parsees are -descended from a race that fled into India from Persia -when that land was attacked by the Arabs twelve -centuries ago. The Parsee women are dressed very -splendidly, because their race is very rich. The Parsee -is the banker and money-lender of India. No other -native is so clever in trade or amasses wealth so swiftly -as a Parsee.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>In his religion the most sacred thing is fire, and to -him the sun, as the emblem of fire, is the greatest -religious symbol. Upon the shore of the bay many -Parsees may be seen at evening at their devotions -before the setting sun. Each seats himself upon the -sand, bows to the sun, taking off his hat and replacing -it, and then, with a small brass jar at his side, begins -to read prayers from a sacred book, chanting them aloud.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The Parsee reverence for fire is seen in the treatment -of his dead. The Hindoo makes a funeral pyre and -burns his dead. Not so the Parsee. He considers -that fire is too sacred to use for such a purpose; nor, -on the other hand, is he willing to defile the earth by -digging a grave. So the Parsee dead are exposed to -be torn to pieces and devoured by vultures. Beside -the sea there stand five broad low towers, the famous -Towers of Silence. In these the bodies of the dead -are exposed. One of these is reserved for the use of a -wealthy family, one for suicides and those who die by -accidental deaths, and three for general use. The -towers and the trees around are loaded with huge -vultures, which, in a couple of hours, reduce a body -to a heap of bones.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst" id="in-the-land-of-the-rajputs"><span class="bold large">CHAPTER II</span></p> -<p class="center pnext"><span class="bold medium">IN THE LAND OF THE RAJPUTS</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>Rajputana is the land of the Rajputs, a splendid -warrior race of Northern India. In times long gone -by the Rajputs held power over the wide plain watered -by the Upper Ganges, but seven hundred years ago -their Moslem foes drove them westwards into the land -still called Rajputana.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The history of the Rajputs is one of battle. They -are born fighters. They have taken a share in all the -wars which have torn India through all the centuries. -They struggled hard against the British power, but -now they are good friends of ours, and their Princes -rule under British protection.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The history of this fine race is full of stories of -romance and chivalry. Nor is the Rajput of to-day -inferior to his brave and haughty fathers: "The -poorest Rajput retains all his pride of ancestry, often -his sole inheritance; he scorns to hold the plough, or -use his lance but on horseback." Of all the brave old -stories of Rajput valour and constancy none are more -beloved than the tales which hang around the three -sacks of Chitore. Thrice was that ancient city seized -and plundered by Moslem foes, and never have those -terrible days been forgotten. To this day the most -binding oath on Rajput lips is when he swears, "By -the sin of the sack of Chitore."</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Long ago there was a Prince of Chitore named -Bhimsi, whose wife, Princess Padmani, was famed far -and wide as the most beautiful woman in the world, -and as good as she was beautiful. The report of her -beauty drew Allah-u-din, a great Moslem warrior, to -the walls of Chitore at the head of a powerful army. -He demanded to see the face of Padmani, were it only -a reflection of her face in a mirror. Prince Bhimsi -invited him to a feast, and he saw Padmani. When -the feast was over, the Prince escorted Allah-u-din back -to his camp. Then the wily Moslem seized the Prince, -and sent word to the chiefs of Chitore that, if they -wished to see their King again, they must send -Padmani to become the wife of Allah-u-din.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Every one in Chitore was aghast at this treacherous -deed; but the Moslem was powerful, and Princess -Padmani, with her attendants, set out for the enemy's -camp. Slowly the long train of seven hundred litters -wound its way from the city, and Padmani was in the -hands of Allah-u-din. The Moslem gave permission -for Bhimsi and Padmani to take a short farewell of each -other, and then was seen a proof of Padmani's wit and -Rajput devotion. From out the seven hundred litters -sprang, not weeping women, but seven hundred -warriors armed to the teeth, while the bearers flung -aside their robes, and showed the glittering swords in -their strong right hands.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Covered by this devoted bodyguard, Bhimsi and -Padmani sprang upon swift horses and reached Chitore -in safety. But none else escaped. The noble Rajputs, -the flower of Chitore, gave their lives to the last man -to save their King and Queen.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Allah-u-din never forgot how he had been foiled. -Years passed, and once more he marched against the -city set on its rock. No one had ever captured it, and -Chitore feared not Allah-u-din until he began to raise -a huge mound of earth. He did this by giving gold -to all who brought a basketful of earth, and at last he -secured a vantage-ground whence he could hurl his -missiles into the city, and the end of the siege was near -at hand.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Then one night King Bhimsi had a terrible vision, -from which he woke in affright. The goddess of -Chitore had appeared to him, saying: "If my altar and -your throne is to be kept, let twelve who wear the -crown die for Chitore."</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Now Bhimsi and Padmani had twelve sons. So it -was resolved to make them twelve Kings by setting -each on the throne for three days. Then the saying -of the goddess would be fulfilled, and these twelve -must die for Chitore. But when it came to the -youngest of the twelve, to Ajeysi, the father's darling, -Bhimsi said no. The King called his chieftains together.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>"The child shall not die," he said. "He shall go -free to recover what was lost. I will be the twelfth to -die for Chitore."</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>"And we will die for Chitore!" cried the warriors. -"In bridal robes of saffron and coronets on our heads, -we will die for Chitore!"</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Then a great plan was made throughout the place: -all, men and women, would die for their beloved city. -In the vaults and caverns which stretch below the rock -a vast funeral pyre was built, and to it came the -Rajput women singing, dressed in their festal robes, -and glittering in all their jewels. The last to enter the -vault of death was Padmani, and when the gate was -closed upon her the men knew their turn had come. -Setting the little Prince in the midst of a picked band, -who had sworn to bear him off in safety, the King led -his sons and chieftains to the battle. The gates were -flung open, and the warriors, clad in bridal robes, -hurled themselves upon the foe: for the bride they -sought was death.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>When the last had died for Chitore, Allah-u-din -entered the city. But it was an empty triumph. -Every house, every street, was still and silent, only a -wisp of smoke oozed from the vault. This was the -first sack of Chitore.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The second sack was in the time of Humayun, -father of Akbar the Great. The ruler of Chitore had -died, leaving a baby son to inherit the crown, and -when a powerful foe came against the city, the child's -mother, Kurnavati, sent messengers to Humayun, -saying: "Tell him that he is bracelet-bound brother -to me, and that I am hard pressed by a cruel foe."</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>There is an ancient custom in India by which a -woman may choose a bracelet-brother to protect and -assist her. She may choose whom she pleases, and she -sends him a silken bracelet, called a ram-rukki. It is -a mere cord of silk, bound with a tassel, and hung -with seven tiny silken tassels—red, orange, yellow, -green, blue, indigo, violet, the colours of the rainbow. -The man may accept this bracelet or not, as he pleases; -but once he has bound it round his wrist, he becomes -the bracelet-brother of the sender, and is bound to -her service. In return for the bracelet he sends the -customary gift of a small breast-bodice.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Now Humayun, the Mogul King, was bracelet-brother -to Kurnavati, and when he heard that she was -in distress, he hurried to her assistance. But he came -too late, and the garrison of Chitore saw that their -city must fall. Then they remembered the first sack, -and all resolved to die in the same way. Kurnavati -succeeded in getting her little son away in safety; then -she led the women to the funeral pyre. The men of -the garrison were few, for many had fallen, but the -gallant handful, clad as before in bridal robes and -crowns, dashed upon the foe, and died to the last man, -ringed about with heaps of slain.</span></p> -<div class="align-center auto-scaled figure margin" style="width: 65%" id="figure-131"> -<span id="a-distinguished-maharajah"></span><img class="align-center block" style="display: block; width: 100%" alt="A DISTINGUISHED MAHARAJAH. *Pages 11 and 58*." src="images/img-009.jpg" /> -<div class="caption centerleft figure-caption margin"> -<span class="italics">A DISTINGUISHED MAHARAJAH. </span><em class="italics">Pages 11 and 58</em><span class="italics">.</span></div> -</div> -<p class="pnext"><span>Although the baby King, Udai Singh, was smuggled -in safety from Chitore, it was not long before he was -in danger again. He was carried off to the palace of -his half-brother, Bikramajit, where he lived under the -care of his foster-mother, Punnia. One night Punnia -heard a terrible uproar, and then the screams of -women. Enemies had broken into the palace of -Bikramajit. But whose life did they seek above all? -Punnia knew, and she saw that Udai Singh was in -great danger. How could she save him? There was -only one way, a terrible way; but the Rajput woman -did not flinch. Two children lay sleeping before her, -Udai Singh and her own child. She caught up the -baby King and thrust sugared opium into his mouth -that he might be lulled into deeper, safer slumber, hid -him in a fruit-basket, and gave the precious burden to -the hands of a faithful servant. "Fly to the river-bed -without the city," she said, "and wait for me there."</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Then she flung the rich royal robe over her own -sleeping child, and waited for the murderers. In they -burst. "The Prince!" they cried. "Where is the -Prince?"</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>With a supreme effort Punnia pointed to the little -figure beneath the splendid robe, and hid her face, -giving the life of her own child to save that of the -little King.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>When all was over, and the last funeral rites had -been performed over the body of the child whom the -conspirators supposed to be the young King, Punnia -sought the river-bed. There she found her nursling, -and with him she fled over hill and dale, never resting -till she gained a strong fortress held by a loyal -governor. Into his presence she hastened, and set the -child on his knee. "Guard well the life of the King!" -she cried, this noble Rajput woman.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The third sack of Chitore happened in the days of -Akbar the Great, son of Humayun, who had once -hurried to the aid of the city. The Rajputs and the -Great Mogul came to blows. Akbar led a powerful -army against his foes. This was the last sack, "for the -conqueror was of right royal stuff, and knew how to -treat brave men. So when the final consummation -was once more reached, and thousands of brave men -had gone to death by the sword, and thousands of -brave women met death by fire, he left the city, -levying no ransom, and on the place where his camp -had stood raised a white marble tower, from whose top -a light might shine to cheer the darkness of Chitore. -But a few years afterwards, when in dire distress and -riding for his life through an ambush, the man on -Akbar's right hand and the man on his left, shielding -him from blows, making their swords his shelter, were -two of the defeated Rajput generals."</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>These are stories of long ago. Here is one of times -nearer our own, when the English were mastering -India. A beautiful Rajput Princess, the Princess -Kishna Komari, was sought in marriage by three -powerful suitors. She could not wed all three, and -her father feared the vengeance of the fierce men who -quarrelled over his daughter's hand. Lest their savage -disputes might end in attack upon his city and palace, -he said that his daughter must die. "She took the -poison offered her, smiling, saying to her weeping -mother, 'Why grieve? A Rajput maiden often enters -the world but to be sent from it. Rather thank my -father for giving you me till to-day.'"</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst" id="in-the-land-of-the-rajputs-continued"><span class="bold large">CHAPTER III</span></p> -<p class="center pnext"><span class="bold medium">IN THE LAND OF THE RAJPUTS (</span><em class="bold italics medium">Continued</em><span class="bold medium">)</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>The ancient town of Chitore still stands on its ridge, -with its grey lines of ruined walls and towers broken -by two beautiful Towers of Victory, which raise their -slender columns toward the sky. The smaller tower is -very old, having been raised in A.D. 896, and the -larger was built in A.D. 1439 to celebrate a victory of -the Rajputs over their Moslem enemies. The latter is -ornamented with most beautiful carving, rises to the -height of 130 feet, and is divided into nine stories.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Some sixty miles from Chitore lies Oudeypor, or -Udaipur, a Rajput city of great fame, for it is said to -be the most beautiful city in all India. It is also of -deep interest as being one of the few cities where the old -native life goes on almost untouched by the presence -and influence of the white people in the land. Here -strut Rajput nobles in silken robes decked with gems, -and followed by splendidly clothed and armed retainers. -Here the elephant is seen at its proper work of carrying -stately howdahs, carved and gilded and hung about -with curtains of rich brocade, while long flowing -draperies of cloth of gold, embroidered in the most -lovely patterns and in the most striking and brilliant -colours, sweep down the broad flanks of the huge -slow-moving beast, and almost brush the ground with -long fringed tassels. Here are bevies of women who -resemble a moving garden in their shining silks of -every hue that is soft and delicate, and here are naked -coolies, whose bronze bodies glisten with sweat as they -toil along under their load of water-skins or huge -baskets heaped with earth.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The people in the streets of Udaipur strike the -traveller at once as a finer type than usual. The men -are tall, slender, and of lofty bearing; their features -are fine, sharp, and regular. As regards the women's -features you cannot judge, for in Udaipur the rule that -no woman's face shall be seen by a stranger is very -strictly observed. Even the poorest woman, however -busily she may be at work, has a hand at liberty to -draw her filmy veil of coloured gauze, red or green or -blue or pink, across her face when anyone glances her way.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>As the crowd passes along, two things above all -strike our eyes—the beards of the men, the jewellery -of the women. The beard of the Rajput is very -black; it is combed and brushed till it shines in the -sun; it is as large as he can grow it; then it is parted -in the middle, and drawn round the face so that it -stands out on either side, and the ends are curled. It -is said that a Rajput dandy who cannot get his beard -to properly part in the middle will draw it round his -face to the required shape, and then tie a bandage -tightly round his head to train the hair to the mode -which he and his friends affect.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The jewellery of the women is overwhelming, and -this word is meant in its literal sense: the women are -absolutely loaded with ornaments. If they are wealthy, -the ornaments are of gold, decked with precious stones; -the poorer classes are weighed down with silver. A -Rajput woman often carries on her person the wealth -of her house, and may be regarded as the family -savings bank. One writer, speaking of the ornaments -upon a working woman of the lower classes, says:</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>"Her smaller toes were decked with rings of silver, -made by an ingenious arrangement of small movable -knobs set close together. She wore a bracelet of the -same design, which was one of the most artistic and -effective triumphs of the jeweller's art that I have ever -seen. Upon her eight fingers she wore twenty-six -rings. She carried on her left lower arm a row of -many bracelets, mainly of silver, but with here and -there a band of lacquer, either green or red or yellow. -Upon her left upper arm she displayed a circlet of links -carved into the shape of musk-melons, each the size of -a nutmeg. From this fell three chains, each five inches -long, and terminated with a tassel of silver. Upon her -right arm she had also many bracelets. Finally, upon -her neck was a chain of silver, of such length that, -after it had been coiled several times round her throat, -sufficient remained to fall in a double loop upon her -bosom, where a heart-shaped silver charm finished both -it and her scheme of display."</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Another writer gives a sketch of a Rajput dandy -which forms a good companion picture to the above: -"A long-skirted tunic or frock of white muslin, -close-fitting white trousers, and a rose-coloured turban with -a broad band of gold lace and tall flashing plume of -dark heron feathers and gold filigree were the salient -points. Other accessories were the sword-belt, crossing -his breast and encircling his waist, of dark green velvet, -richly worked with pure gold, and thickly studded with -emeralds, rubies, and brilliants; a transparent yellow -shield of rhinoceros hide, with knobs of black-and-gold -enamel; a sash of stiff gold lace, with a crimson thread -running through the gold; bracelets of the dainty -workmanship known as Jeypore enamel, thickly -jewelled, which he wore on his wrists and arms; and -there were strings of dull, uncut stones about his neck. -The skirts of his tunic were pleated with many folds -and stood stiffly out, and when he mounted his horse -a servant on each side held them so that they might not -be crushed.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>"The trappings of the horse were scarcely less -elaborate. His neck was covered on one side with -silver plates, and his mane, which hung on the other -side, was braided, and lengthened by black fringes, -relieved by silver ornaments. White yaks' tails hung -from beneath the embroidered saddle-cover on both -sides, and his head, encased in a headstall of white -enamelled leather and silver, topped with tall aigrettes, -was tied down by an embroidered scarf to give his neck -the requisite curve."</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The streets through which these gay figures move -are worthy of them. Hardly two houses are alike, but -all are beautiful in "this shining white pearl among -cities." No building is bare. Its front is decorated -with half-columns, carved panels, or frescoes in -brilliant colours, picturing horses, elephants, and tigers -in pursuit of their prey. Balconies and projecting -windows are faced with panels of stonework so delicately -carved and fretted as to resemble lacework, and -in the most beautiful and graceful patterns. And -everything is white, glittering white, under a clear, -glowing sky, and set beside a great lake as blue as a -great sheet of turquoise.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Along the streets flows a most mingled crowd, clad -in all the hues of the rainbow, and through this brilliant -throng all kinds of beasts of burden thread their way. -The mighty elephant, rolling along with his ponderous -tread, is followed by a tiny ass no bigger than a large -dog. Oxen just as small as the asses, and long-legged -camels with great loads on their humped backs, come -and go, and people on balconies lean over the parapets -and gaze idly on the busy scene.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The most striking thing in Udaipur is the vast -palace of the native Prince. The most beautiful things -are the two lovely water palaces which stand on islands -in the lake.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The former is entered by a fine triple-arched -gateway. "Above this gateway soars the great white -fabric, airy, unreal, and fantastic as a dream, stretching -away in a seemingly endless prospective of latticed -cupolas, domes, turrets, and jutting oriel windows, -rising tier above tier, at a dizzy height from the -ground. A single date-tree spreads its branches above -the walls of the topmost court, at the very apex of the -pile."</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>From the foot of the ridge on which stands this -glittering pile of splendid masonry the dark blue lake -stretches away, its surface broken by two islands, each -of which is occupied by a water palace of wonderful -beauty. Here one may roam through miles of courts, -saloons, corridors, pavilions, balconies, terraces, a -fairyland of splendour, in which every room, every gallery -is decorated with the most exquisite art. And all this -has been wrought by the hand of man, not merely the -marvellous palaces, but the very lake itself. This site -was once a desert valley, but immense wealth and -boundless power have filled the great hollow with blue -water, and littered its shores with temples and palaces -and pavilions, presenting a scene which, for charm of -colour and beauty of outline, can nowhere be surpassed.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst" id="in-the-punjab"><span class="bold large">CHAPTER IV</span></p> -<p class="center pnext"><span class="bold medium">IN THE PUNJAB</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>Beyond the wide desert which stretches along the -north-western border of Rajputana lie the plains of the -Punjab, running up to the foot-hills of the Himalayas. -The Punjab (the Land of Five Rivers), where the -Indus and its tributaries roll their waters to the -Arabian Sea, is, above all and beyond all, the battlefield -of India. For it was upon these plains that the onsets -of invaders first fell. Greeks, Persians, Afghans—swarm -after swarm poured through the only vulnerable -point of Northern India, and fought out on the plains -of the Punjab the struggles which meant for them -victory or disastrous retreat.</span></p> -<div class="align-center auto-scaled figure margin" style="width: 64%" id="figure-132"> -<span id="a-sikh-warrior"></span><img class="align-center block" style="display: block; width: 100%" alt="A SIKH WARRIOR. *Page 17*." src="images/img-016.jpg" /> -<div class="caption centerleft figure-caption margin"> -<span class="italics">A SIKH WARRIOR. </span><em class="italics">Page 17</em><span class="italics">.</span></div> -</div> -<p class="pnext"><span>The last native rulers of the Punjab were the finest -ones of all—the Sikhs. The Sikhs, a nation of -fanatics and heroes, fought the Moslems for hundreds -of years, and the prize was the rule of the Punjab. -The Sikhs won, and formed a barrier behind which -India was safe from the savage Moslem tribes of the -north-west.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The Sikhs are a warrior race pure and simple. -They make splendid soldiers under white officers, and -the fine Sikh regiments are the pride of our native -Indian army. They did not yield up the Punjab to -British rule without a stern struggle. They were -noble foes, and they proved noble friends. They -accepted the British Raj once and for all. Within ten -years after their conquest the Indian Mutiny broke -out. The Sikhs stood firm, and aided the British -with the utmost gallantry and devotion.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The Sikh is a fine, tall, upstanding fellow, with an -immense beard and a huge coil of hair. This follows -on his belief that it is impious either to shave or to cut -the hair. He holds tobacco in abhorrence, and -worships his Bible, which is called the Granth. In -every Sikh temple sits a priest reading in a loud voice -from the Granth, while beside him an attendant priest -fans the holy book with a gilt-handled plume of -feathers.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The most famous Sikh temple is at Amritsar, the -holy city of the Sikh faith. Here is the Pool of -Immortality, and in the midst of the lake rises the -Golden Temple, standing on an island. From the -gates of the city a throng of stalwart, bearded Sikh -pilgrims sets always towards the Golden Temple. -You follow in their train, and come suddenly upon a -wide open space. It is bordered by a marble -pavement, and within the pavement lies the famous Lake -of Immortality. The Golden Temple rises before -you, glittering with blinding radiance in the hot -sunshine, and mirrored in the smooth water which runs to -the foot of its walls.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>But you may not yet enter the sacred place and -walk round the lake and see the temple. At the gates -you are stopped, and your boots taken from you, and -silken slippers tied on in their place. If you have -tobacco in your pockets that, too, must be handed -over, and left till you return, for tobacco would defile -the holy place. Then you are led round by a Sikh -policeman, who will show you the temple and the -hallowed ground.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The marble pavement around the sacred lake is -dotted with groups of priests and pilgrims, and behind -the pavement stand palaces of marble, owned by great -Sikh chiefs who come here to worship. Here and -there are flower-sellers weaving long chains of roses -and yellow jasmine to sell to worshippers who wish to -make offerings. A teacher with a little band of -students around him is seated beside the pool, and in a -shady corner is a native craftsman busy fashioning -wooden spoons and combs, and other trifles, which he -sells as souvenirs of the shrine.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The Golden Temple itself is gained by a causeway -across the lake, and the causeway is entered through a -magnificent portal with doors of silver, and four open -doors of chased silver give access to the sanctuary -itself. Here sits the high-priest reading the Granth, -and before the holy book is spread a cloth, upon which -the faithful lay offerings of coins or flowers.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>From Amritsar, the holy city, to Lahore, the -capital of the Punjab, is only some thirty miles. -Lahore is a large town of great importance as a -military station, and many troops are quartered in the -grand old fort built by the Mogul Kings. Some -of the palaces which once filled this ancient fortress -still show traces of their former splendour. There are -sheets of striking tilework, with panels of elephants, -horsemen, and warriors worked in yellow upon a blue -ground. There are marble walls inlaid most -beautifully with flowers formed of precious stones. But -many of the halls have been converted into barracks, -and in spots where once an Emperor smoked his -jewelled "hubble-bubble," surrounded by a glittering -Court, Tommy Atkins, in khaki and putties, with his -helmet on the back of his head, now puffs calmly at a -clay pipe.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Lahore has streets which display some of the finest -wood-carving in India. These streets lie within the -city, the old part of the town, enclosed by brick walls -sixteen feet high, and entered by thirteen gates. In -one street every house has a balcony or jutting window -of old woodwork, carved into the most beautiful or -fantastic designs, according to the fancy of the owner -who built and designed it long ago. The balconies -are of all sizes and shapes, and their line is delightfully -irregular. The walls, too, are painted and decorated -lavishly, and domed windows are adorned by gaily-tinted -peacocks worked in wood or stucco. The -splendid woodwork, the shining beauty of paint and -courses of bricks richly glazed in red and blue, the -gay crowd which throngs the way—all these things -combine to form a striking and splendid picture.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>At the end of this marvellous street rise the tall -minarets of the Great Mosque, and close by is the fine -tomb where lies Runjit Singh, the greatest of the Sikh -rulers. Under him the Sikhs rose to the height of -power in India; but a few years after his death, in -1839, the Punjab passed into our hands.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst" id="among-the-himalayas"><span class="bold large">CHAPTER V</span></p> -<p class="center pnext"><span class="bold medium">AMONG THE HIMALAYAS</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>India is bounded and guarded on the north by one of -the grandest mountain-chains in the world. This is -the mighty range of the Himalayas, which stretches a -row of lofty peaks from east to west, as if to shut up -India behind a gigantic wall.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>There are very few points where this vast range can -be crossed, and then only with the greatest difficulty. -The most famous pass of all lies in the north-west, -the well-known Khyber or Khaibar Pass leading into -Afghanistan. Through this pass invader after invader -in age after age has poured his troops into the fertile -plains of Hindostan.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>At this point Alexander the Great at the head of a -Greek army crossed the Indus and marched into India. -To this day there are left in the land tokens of that -far-off raid. The Indian hakims, the native doctors, -practise the Greek system of medicine, and the influence -of the invaders is seen in old Indian coins which turn -up with Greek inscriptions upon them, in statues which -are found in the soil, as full of Greek feeling as any in -Athens itself.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>But it is now a task for British brains and hands to -see to it that no fresh invader swoops through the pass, -and it is very strictly guarded. In itself the pass presents -many difficulties. The way lies through tremendous -ravines, beside which tower precipices of stupendous -height, and the road could easily be blocked and -destroyed at many points. The people who inhabit -this region are also of a very savage and dangerous -character. They are called Afridis, and belong to wild -hill-tribes, who are always ready for a fray, all the more -so if there is a little plunder to be gained by it.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>With these fierce and lawless people the British -officers have come to an arrangement: that for two -days a week the Afridis themselves shall furnish soldiers -to guard the pass. For this duty an annual payment -is made, and thus the Khaibar Pass is quite safe on -Tuesdays and Fridays. On other days the traveller -must look out for himself. He must keep a wide eye -open for the Zakka Khels, a notorious Afridi tribe. -When a son is born to a Zakka Khel woman she -swings him over a hole in a wall, saying, "Be a thief! be -a thief!" And a thief he is to the end of his days.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Among the Himalayas to the north-east of the -Khyber Pass lies the beautiful vale of Kashmir, or -Cashmere (the Happy Valley). Cashmere is a lofty -plain, yet it is not a plateau, for you go down into it -from every side. It is so high that its climate is nearer -to that of England than any other part of India. The -summer is like a fine English summer, but a little -hotter, and with more settled weather. In winter the -snow lies on the ground for two or three months, but -about the end of February the snow disappears, and -the spring bursts out, and the vale becomes beautiful -with the tender green of growing crops and grass and a -profusion of most lovely flowers. The scenery is very -fine. Around and far off is the great wall of lofty -mountains, which encompass the plain with glittering -slopes of eternal snow. The vale itself is dotted -with hamlets and villages, with fields waving with -corn and rice, with meadows, with orchards of -mulberry- and walnut-trees, with forests of giant plane-trees.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The capital is Srinagar, the City of Sun, whose many -waterways winding through the ancient city make it an -Asiatic Venice. "The houses on the banks are of -many stories, most of them richly ornamented with -carved wood, while the sloping roofs of nearly all are -overgrown with verdure. The dome of one Hindoo -temple was covered with long grass thickly studded -with scarlet poppies and yellow mustard. On all sides -are to be seen the remains of ancient temples and -palaces, testifying to what a magnificent city Srinagar -must have been."</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Moving east along the Himalayan slopes, the next -point of interest is the small town of Simla. This is -important, not in itself, but as the seat of government -in the summer, when the Viceroy and his staff escape -to its cool heights from the burning plain 7,000 feet -below. "By the time the month of May is advancing -the season for Simla has begun. The Viceroy and his -Government, with some of the official classes, have -arrived, and the world of Anglo-Indian fashion have -assembled. Social gatherings on the greensward -underneath the rocks, overshadowed by the fir, pine, and -cedar, are of daily occurrence. The rich bloom of the -rhododendrons lends gorgeousness to the scene.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>"The place is like a gay Swiss city isolated on the -mountain-top, with dark ilex forests around it, blue -hills beyond, and the horizon ever whitened by the -Snowy Range. But in this paradise, tempting the mind -to banish care and forget affairs of State, the most -arduous business is daily conducted. Red-liveried -messengers are running to and fro all the day and half -the night. Tons of letters and dispatches come and -go daily. Here are gathered up the threads of an -Empire. Hence issue the orders affecting perhaps -one-sixth of the human race."</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>In winter Simla is deserted. The Viceroy and his -staff, the gay world of fashion, all have gone back to -the plains, and in severe weather the little town often -lies deep in snow.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Simla lies near the Siwalik Hills, one of the many -foot-ranges which lead up to the greater heights of the -Himalayas, and the Siwalik Hills are famous, because -through them the sacred Ganges bursts out upon the -plains of Hindostan. It is at the city of Hard war that -the Ganges forces its bright blue stream through a wild -gorge and leaves the mountains for ever; and Hardwar -is a holy place. The city lies in the gorge beside the -stream. It has one principal street running along the -river; the others mount the hill-side as steeply as -staircases. Temples and ghats line the bank, and hither -come vast numbers of pilgrims to the great annual fair -of Hardwar to bathe in the holy river. At that time -the country round resembles a vast encampment, "and -all the races, faces, costumes, customs, and languages -of the East, from Persia to Siam, from Ceylon to -Siberia, are represented."</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst" id="among-the-himalayas-continued"><span class="bold large">CHAPTER VI</span></p> -<p class="center pnext"><span class="bold medium">AMONG THE HIMALAYAS (</span><em class="bold italics medium">continued</em><span class="bold medium">)</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>But to see the Himalayas in all their majesty we must -still keep our faces to the east, and travel on towards -the great central knot, where Mount Everest and the -Kanchanjanga spring nearly 30,000 feet, about five -and a half miles, towards the sky. Of these two -mountain giants Mount Everest, though the highest -measured mountain in the world, presents the less -imposing appearance. This is because it lies so far in the -interior of the range, and is surrounded by a girdle of -snowy peaks which seem to gather about and protect -their lord. They, however, block the way for a -complete view of the enormous height, and thus seem -to dwarf it.</span></p> -<div class="align-center auto-scaled figure margin" style="width: 80%" id="figure-133"> -<span id="the-golden-temple"></span><img class="align-center block" style="display: block; width: 100%" alt="THE GOLDEN TEMPLE, AMRITSAR. *Page 18*." src="images/img-025.jpg" /> -<div class="caption centerleft figure-caption margin"> -<span class="italics">THE GOLDEN TEMPLE, AMRITSAR. </span><em class="italics">Page 18</em><span class="italics">.</span></div> -</div> -<p class="pnext"><span>For majestic splendour, Kanchanjanga bears away -the palm. From the vale of the great Ranjit River, a -huge rushing torrent which pours past its base, the -whole immense mountain-slope may be surveyed in a -single prospect, a most sublime and splendid view. -The traveller who climbs the flanks of this great -mountain will pass through belts of vegetation -reminding him of every zone on the earth's surface. He -begins his climb among the eternal green of tropical -forests, through thickly-matted jungle where large -creepers bind tree to tree, and great bunches of -gaudily-coloured flowers blaze in the scorching heat of the -tropical sun.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>From the land of palm and plantain and orchid he -ascends through groves of bamboo, of orange, and of -fig until he gains a height at which the air is sensibly -cooler, and the vegetation of temperate zones begins -to appear. On the border between the two zones -grow splendid tree-ferns, rhododendrons forty feet -high, and groves of magnolia. When the two latter -are in blossom the scene is gorgeous, and the white -flowers of the magnolia seem to sprinkle the forests -with snow.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The trees are now those familiar to English eyes: -the oak, chestnut, willow, cherry, and beneath them -grow the bramble, raspberry, strawberry, and other -well-remembered plants and shrubs. Deep ravines -score the flanks of the hills, and down each ravine -dashes a brimming torrent, tossing its spray over ferns -and wild-flowers, and butterflies with wings of the most -striking and beautiful colours flit to and fro in the -sunlight.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>On goes the traveller, and now the underwood begins -to thin, and the land becomes more grassy, and the -trees to gather themselves into serried ranks of gigantic -pines, firs, junipers, and larches. Up and up he climbs, -and at last the belt of forest is left behind. He is out -on the upper pastures beneath the open sky; he has -gained the Alpine region of the Himalayas. Fields -of flowers run upwards—of poppies, of edelweiss, of -gentians—until at length the traveller stands at the foot -of the first snow-field, and sees above him the vast -sweeps of snowy glacier, the icy precipices and pinnacles -which forbid his further advance.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>We are now in the neighbourhood of the pass -through which our troops marched into Tibet in the -advance to Lhassa. The pass is approached from -Darjiling, famous as a tea-growing centre, and Darjiling -is approached by a mountain-railway. The latter is a -triumph of engineering, so cleverly does it twist and -turn its way among the hills, skirting the edge of -deep precipices, winding round spirals, and affording -splendid views at almost every turn of the way.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>At the point where the railway starts for Darjiling -the Himalayas spring up abruptly from the Indian -plains. The first station is some 300 miles from -Calcutta and the sea, yet less than 400 feet from -sea-level. Then in less than 40 miles it climbs some 7,000 -feet up to Darjiling.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>This town is not only a great centre of the tea -industry, but is also one of the show places of the -world, for it commands the grandest known landscape -of snowy mountains in the Himalayas. Kanchanjanga -is the chief figure in the glorious panorama -of snow-clad heights, but Everest can be seen in the -distance, and a whole host of minor peaks, each taller -than Mont Blanc, carry the eye from point to point in -the widespread survey.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>At Darjiling may be seen many Tibetans with their -praying-wheels, which they twist as they repeat their -Buddhist prayers, and their praying-flags, long poles of -bamboo from which flutter strips of cotton cloth, on -which prayers are written. The bazaar is frequented by -the people of the country round about, and many -different types of the hill-tribes may be seen there.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>"There are Tibetans who have come down over the -passes through Sikkim; Lepchas, from Sikkim itself, -who look almost like Chinese, the women wearing -heavy ear ornaments, and both men and women parting -the hair in the middle and combing it down on either -side; Bhutras, the women some of them rather pretty, -with necklaces, carrying a silver charm-case and with -large ear-rings, and the men with pigtails; Nepali -women, with enormous carved necklaces, head-dresses -of silver, and nose ornaments, which sometimes hang -down over the chin; and coolies carrying great loads -on their backs, supported by a wicker band across the -forehead."</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>In the valley around Darjiling the slopes of the hills -are covered with tea-bushes, and the cultivation extends -to the foot of the range, where great tea-plantations -stretch over the Terai. The Terai is the name given -to a broad strip of land lying along the base of the -Himalayas. Here the tea-plant flourishes, but so does a -terrible wasting fever, which makes the growing of -these precious leaves a dangerous task. For the Terai -is fearfully unhealthy. Down from the broad flanks of -the great range rush a thousand torrents. They -overflow their banks and soak the whole country until it is -a huge swamp. Then there is a very heavy rainfall, -amounting to 120 inches in a year, and this further -saturates the sodden ground. The tropical sun beats -upon this marshy land and raises a thick vapour which -is laden with malaria. Those who live and work among -this vapour are liable to be struck down by a wasting -fever. The fever is very deadly to Europeans, nor do -the natives themselves escape. The coolies who work -in the tea-fields die of it in large numbers.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>At one time the natives used to fire the jungle -regularly. This great sweep of flame through the -region did much towards purifying the air; but firing -the jungle is now forbidden, for fear of harming the -tea-bushes and the houses of the planters.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The sight of a tea-plantation is curious rather than -pretty. The bushes have no beauty: they stand in -long, neat rows, and each bush is trimmed to keep it -low, broad, and flat. From a distance a tea-garden -looks like a great bed of huge cabbages. Among these -bushes groups of coolies, both men and women, are -very busily at work, for there is plenty to do, not -merely in gathering the leaves, but in keeping the -bushes free from weeds, which would check and hinder -their growth. Under the burning sun and in the -moist earth weeds spring up in great profusion, and a -plantation neglected for even a short time becomes -choked with them.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>All the tea-bushes are not alike. Some are of a -darker colour than the rest, and the leaves are smaller. -This is the China plant, while the lighter-coloured -bushes with larger leaves are the Assam strain. The -coolies at work among the plants are gaunt, thin, -miserable-looking figures. This is not to be wondered -at when their occupation is considered, exposing them -as it does to attack after attack of the terrible Terai -fever. When the rains are very heavy they often have -to work knee-deep in water and mud beneath a burning -sun, and this reduces their strength to withstand the -poisonous malaria.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>When the coolies have filled their baskets with -leaves, they carry them up to the tea-factory. First, -the leaves are weighed, to see how much each coolie -has plucked; then they are carried to the withering-house. -All the leaves are spread out on shallow canvas -trays, and left all night to wither. Next morning the -leaves are put into the rolling-machine, and after half -an hour's rolling they come out in a huge wet mass of -leaf. This mass is broken up and spread out to dry -on trays, and left for some time to ferment. The -process of fermentation is carefully watched, for upon -this the aroma of the tea will depend, and the process -must be checked at the right moment.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Of all the rooms in the tea-factory the fermenting-room -is the most pleasant to visit. It is filled with the -most delightful fragrance. Next, the tea is thrown into -a machine, where it is dried by hot air, and after that -it enters a huge sieve, where the first rough division of -the crop is made into large and small leaves. The next -sorting is by hand, when nimble fingers swiftly pick -out the finer sorts of tea. After this final separation -the tea is dried once more, and then taken to the -warehouse, where it is packed ready to go into the market.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst" id="the-great-plains-of-the-ganges"><span class="bold large">CHAPTER VII</span></p> -<p class="center pnext"><span class="bold medium">THE GREAT PLAINS OF THE GANGES</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>Beyond the Terai the traveller, turning his back upon -the Himalayas, enters a vast plain, hundreds of miles -wide and a thousand miles long. From Calcutta in the -east to beyond Delhi in the north-west, from the -Himalayas in the north to the Vindhya Hills in the south -spreads this vast sweep of land, the Plain of Hindostan. -Into this plain flow a thousand streams, great and -small, from the mountains which fringe its borders. -Every stream, sooner or later, is gathered into the -broad bosom of the Ganges, which winds its majestic -current through the centre of the immense level. The -Ganges is more than the great river of India: it is one -of the great rivers of the world. To vast numbers of -mankind it is a sacred stream, and to bathe in its holy -waters is a privilege for which pilgrims will travel on -foot from distant lands. But the mighty flood is put -to other uses than that of worship. A network of -canals gathers up the waters of itself and of its many -tributaries, and spreads them abroad upon the fields of -the husbandman, and makes the plain blossom into -fertility.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>To travel this plain reminds one of being at sea. -On all hands it stretches away absolutely flat, and fades -away into a misty horizon, save that at morning and -evening the great snowy heights of the Himalayas -shine out, and fade away again in the light of the rising -and setting sun.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>This great sunny plain swarms with life. It is -covered with the villages of the Indian peasants; it is -coloured with the bright patches of their crops, with -green fields of paddy (rice), with golden wheat and -barley, with poppies white in flower, with yellow mustard, -with lentils, potatoes, castor-oil plants, and a score -of other crops. These grow freely where water is. -Where water is not, the land stretches bare and sterile, -sand, stones, and rocks bleaching in the sun.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Here and there a group of trees proclaims a village. -The palm and the feathery bamboo mingle their -foliage; the huge banyan-tree stretches itself over the -soil and sends down its long shoots, which strike it into -the soil and form supports to the parent branches. -Around the village pastures the herd of buffaloes, often -watched by a small boy, and a clumsy cart, with -wheels formed of two circles of solid wood, and drawn -by two mild-eyed, hump-backed oxen, creaks by as it -journeys towards a neighbouring place.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The life of the villages in this plain is, as a rule, -untouched by modern ideas. They move upon the -world-old ways which their fathers followed. In many -of them, far from the main river and the railway, a -white face is scarcely ever seen. There are great towns -in the Ganges basin, but these are only specks on the -face of the mighty plain. The Indian ryot knows -nothing of them and goes on in his own way.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Water is his first need, and lucky is the man who -has a good well or whose field is upon the bank of a -river. The water is drawn in many ways. One -peasant employs the simple method of watering by -hand, filling his pots and emptying them upon the -roots of the thirsty plants; but if the crop be rice, -which demands a flood of water, a pair of oxen are set -to the work. They are harnessed to a rope which runs -over a pulley and has a huge water-skin fastened to its -farther end. As the oxen go away from the well they -pull up the skin full of water till it reaches a prepared -channel. Here a man is waiting, who empties the skin -into the channel, and the water runs away to the field. -Now the oxen come back, and the skin sinks to the -water; then they turn again, and the skin rises. One -man drives the team, the other empties the water, and -so the work goes on from dawn to dark.</span></p> -<div class="align-center auto-scaled figure margin" style="width: 65%" id="figure-134"> -<span id="watering-cattle"></span><img class="align-center block" style="display: block; width: 100%" alt="WATERING CATTLE. *Page 32*." src="images/img-032.jpg" /> -<div class="caption centerleft figure-caption margin"> -<span class="italics">WATERING CATTLE. </span><em class="italics">Page 32</em><span class="italics">.</span></div> -</div> -<p class="pnext"><span>These are the people who produce the wealth of -India, these quiet, patient toilers growing their endless -crops of wheat, of rice, of barley, of poppies for opium, -of cotton, and of maize. They cut their ditches for -irrigation, and flood a once-barren stretch of country -with water. Thenceforth they take from it always two, -and often three, crops in a year.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst" id="the-land-of-the-mogul-kings"><span class="bold large">CHAPTER VIII</span></p> -<p class="center pnext"><span class="bold medium">THE LAND OF THE MOGUL KINGS</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>Far in the north-west of the great plain of Hindostan, -the ancient and famous city of Delhi stands on the -broad Jumna, the chief tributary of the Ganges, and -around her lies the land of the Mogul Kings. Delhi -has a great name in the history of India. She saw -the empire of the powerful Mogul Kings; she saw -some of the most desperate fighting of the Great Indian -Mutiny of 1857, when the last Mogul was driven from -his throne. But long before the Mutiny the power of -the Moguls had vanished. Their palmy days were in -the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, and the strongest -of them all, Akbar, the Great Mogul, began to reign in -1556. He came to the throne two years before Elizabeth -became Queen of England; he died two years after -her, in 1605.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Akbar the Great was only fourteen years old when -he became King, but "from that moment his grip was -on all India." He proved a wonderful ruler and leader -of men. India was a welter of conflicting races, tongues, -and creeds. Under his firm and wise government strife -died away, peace and order took its place, and those -who had been the fiercest enemies lived side by side in -friendship. He was at once law-maker, soldier, ruler, -and philosopher. He was tall, and as strong in body -as in mind, for he was the best polo player in India, -and it is recorded of him that he once rode 800 -miles on camel-back, and then, without staying for rest, -at once gave battle to his enemy.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>To find the wonderful buildings which the Great -Mogul left behind him, we must leave Delhi and go -down the Jumna to Agra and its neighbourhood. -Agra is still called by the natives Akbarabad, the city -of Akbar, and here stands the mighty fort which the -monarch built, a city in itself. In a land of magnificent -buildings there is nothing grander than the fort at -Agra. Its battlements of red sandstone tower 70 feet -from the ground, the walls run a mile and a half in -circuit, and the immense mass of masonry dwarfs the -modern town. Within the fort is a maze of courts, -pavilions, corridors, and chambers, wrought in dazzling -white marble, and decorated with the most beautiful -carving and exquisite tracery in stone. The chief -features of the vast building are Akbar's palace, with -its golden pinnacles glittering in the sunshine, and the -Moti Masjid, a small mosque of most beautiful -proportions, so perfect both in design and in the beauty of -its ornaments that it is called the Pearl Mosque, being -the pearl of all mosques.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>From Agra a drive of twenty-two miles takes us to -Fattehpore-Sikri, a marvellous town, erected by Akbar -himself, "where every building is a palace, every palace -a dream carved in red sandstone." The name of the -place means "The City of Victory," and was given to -it because Akbar's grandfather defeated the Rajputs at -this place in 1527. Here Akbar built a splendid -mosque, which stands on the west side of a great -courtyard. From the south the courtyard is entered by the -Sublime Gate, or Gate of Victory, "the noblest portal -in India." Akbar's palace may still be seen, and the -chief place of interest is the Throne Room, where, in -the centre of a large chamber, rises a huge column of -red sandstone, with a spreading capital surrounded by a -balustrade. Akbar's seat was placed on the top of this -mighty pillar, and from it ran four raised pathways, -leading to the places where his ministers sat, in four -galleries, one at each corner of the room.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The tomb of Akbar is at Sikandra, about six miles -from Agra. It stands in the midst of a garden, which -is entered by four lofty gateways of red sandstone. -From each gateway a broad causeway of stone runs to -the centre of the enclosure, where rises the great -building which contains the tomb of the Great Mogul. The -building rises in terraces something in the form of a -pyramid, the lower stories of red sandstone, the top -story of white marble, the latter decorated with pierced -panels of marble wrought in the most beautiful patterns. -The floor of the building is open to the day, and in -the centre stands the grandly simple tomb, a huge -block of white marble, on which is inscribed a single -word, 'Akbar.' Near at hand is a small pillar in -which the famous diamond the Koh-i-noor was once set.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Splendid as were the buildings of Akbar, yet his -grandson, Shah Jehan, was destined to surpass him; -for Shah Jehan built the Taj Mahal, the most glorious -tomb that grief ever raised in memory of love, and one -of the wonders of the world. In 1629 Shah Jehan -lost his wife, and he determined to raise to her memory -a monument which should keep her name immortal. -He employed 20,000 men for eighteen years, and the -splendid building was completed in 1648, the date -being inscribed upon the great gate. The most famous -artists and workmen of India were gathered to this -task, and the result is a palace of the most wonderful -beauty and magnificence.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The Taj Mahal stands in a great garden about a mile -from Agra, and is surrounded by trees and flowers and -fountains: "the song of birds meets the ear, and the -odour of roses and lemon-flowers sweetens the air." It -is built of the purest white marble, and shines with -such dazzling brilliance that to look full upon it in -strong sunshine is scarcely possible. Seen by -moonlight, it is a radiant vision of beauty, and the charm of -its lovely form is felt to the full. The great domes -seem to swim above in the silver light, the stately -minarets shoot up towards the dark blue of the sky, -and the scene is one of unearthly beauty.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Glorious as is this mighty building in the mass, it is -just as full of beauty when examined closely and in -detail. Every part is covered with the most graceful -and exquisite designs, inlaid in marbles of different -colours. Every wall, every arch, every portal, is -ornamented and finished as if the craftsmen had been -engaged upon a small precious casket instead of a -corner of an immense palace tomb. One striking -feature is seen in the arches of the doorways and -windows. Around them run inlaid letters most -beautifully shaped in black marble. These letters form -verses and chapters of the Koran, the sacred book of -the Moslems, and it is said that the whole of the Koran -is thus inlaid in the Taj.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The heart of the building is the vault where Shah -Jehan and his wife sleep together, for he was laid -beside her. The tombs are formed of the purest white -marble, inlaid most beautifully with designs formed of -agate, cornelian, lapis-lazuli, jasper, and other precious -stones, and they are surrounded by a pierced marble -screen whose open tracery-work is formed of flowers -carved and wrought into a thousand designs.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst" id="the-land-of-the-mogul-kings-continued"><span class="bold large">CHAPTER IX</span></p> -<p class="center pnext"><span class="bold medium">THE LAND OF THE MOGUL KINGS (</span><em class="bold italics medium">continued</em><span class="bold medium">)</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>It was Shah Jehan who returned to Delhi as the seat of -government of the Mogul Kings, and largely rebuilt the -city. But the memories of Delhi reach far, far back -before the time of the Mogul Kings; they stretch away -into the dim dawn of Indian history, where the threads -of truth and fable are so intermingled that the historian -cannot disentangle them.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The modern Delhi stands in the midst of a plain -covered with ruins—the ruins of many cities built by -many Kings before the present Delhi came into being. -It is a striking sight to drive from the city to the great -Tower of Kutb Minar, eleven miles away to the south. -The road runs through the traces of the Delhis that -have been: heaps of scattered brick, a mound that was -once a gateway, a broken wall that was once the corner -of a fort, a tumbling tower, and a ruined dome. -Through these tokens of shattered palaces and tombs -of dead and forgotten Kings you pass on till the vast -shaft of the Kutb rises from the plain like a lighthouse -from the sea.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>It is an immense tower of five stories, rising -240 feet into the air. At the base it measures about -50 feet through, but the sides taper till it is only -9 feet wide at the top. The three lower stories are -of red sandstone; the two upper are faced with white -marble, and the whole forms a very striking and -wonderful monument.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>This colossal tower preserves the name of Kutb, one -of the "slave" Sultans of Delhi. Seven hundred years -ago Kutb, who had been a slave, rose by his military -talents, first to the position of a General, and then -made himself Emperor of Delhi. He was the first of -ten Moslem rulers who reigned from 1206 to 1290, -and it is believed that the Kutb Minar was raised as a -tower of victory. It is possible to ascend the lofty -shaft by a flight of 378 steps, which winds up the -interior, but "the view from the top is nothing. The -country is an infinite green and brown chess-board of -young corn and fallow, dead flat on every side, ugly -with the complacent plainness of all rich country. -Beyond the sheeny ribbon of the Jumna, north, south, -east, and west, you can see only land, and land, and -land—a million acres with nothing on them to see -except the wealth of India and the secret of the -greatness of India."</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>But near at hand is a far more ancient monument -than that of the slave King. This is the famous Iron -Pillar, the "arm or weapon of victory." It is a pillar -of pure malleable iron, and its erection is ascribed to -the fourth century before Christ, when it was raised to -commemorate a great Hindu victory. At present it -projects some 23 feet from the earth, and it is about -a foot in diameter at the capital, but a great part of -it is buried.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>In Delhi itself stand the great fort and the great -mosque, the Jama Masjid, both built by Shah Jehan. -The fort was at once the stronghold and the palace of -the Mogul Emperors who followed Shah Jehan. It is -surrounded by a towering wall built of gigantic slabs -of sandstone, crested with battlements and moated -below. The usual entrance to the fort is through -the noble Lahore Gate, and the palace stands before you.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>You enter the hall of audience, a great hall of red -sandstone open on three sides. There is an alcove in -the centre of the wall at the back, and from the alcove -projects a great slab of marble. From the four corners -of this marble platform spring four richly-inlaid marble -pillars supporting an arched canopy. The marble is -beautiful, but the work upon it is ten times more -beautiful. The wall of the alcove is gorgeous with -tiny pictures of flowers and fruits and birds, wrought -most cunningly in paint and precious stones. In this -alcove was sometimes set the Peacock Throne, whose -glories are still celebrated in story and song, the -marvellous throne which Shah Jehan had built for himself, -the throne which blazed with gems set by the most -skilful jewellers of Delhi, men famous throughout India -for their craftsmanship.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Next comes the hall of private audience, where -the King sat among his Court. This, too, is open, a -noble pavilion on columns, where the breezes could -blow if any such were moving in the burning heats of -summer. "The whole is of white marble, asheen in -the sun; but that is the least part of the wonder. -Walls and ceilings, pillars, and many-pointed arches, -are all inlaid with richest, yet most delicate, colour. -Gold cornices and scrolls and lattices frame traceries of -mauve and pale green and soft azure. What must it -have been, you ask yourself, when the Peacock Throne -blazed with emerald and sapphire, diamond and ruby, -from the now empty pedestal, and the plates of -burnished silver reflected its glory from the roof?"</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Peacock Throne and plates of silver have long been -gone. Nadir Shah carried them off in 1739, when he -entered the city with his victorious troops, put the -inhabitants to the sword, and sacked the place. Many -an attack has been made on the fort, but none, in English -eyes, has so deep an interest as the assault of 1857, -and all English travellers visit the Cashmere Gate.</span></p> -<div class="align-center auto-scaled figure margin" style="width: 81%" id="figure-135"> -<span id="the-taj-mahal"></span><img class="align-center block" style="display: block; width: 100%" alt="THE TAJ MAHAL. *Page 35*." src="images/img-041.jpg" /> -<div class="caption centerleft figure-caption margin"> -<span class="italics">THE TAJ MAHAL. </span><em class="italics">Page 35</em><span class="italics">.</span></div> -</div> -<p class="pnext"><span>The Siege of Delhi by our troops is one of the -great incidents of the Indian Mutiny, and the historic -ridge to the north-west is the site of the British -camp. After a patient siege the fort was attacked, the -Cashmere Gate was blown open by a storming-party, -and the British poured in, victorious at last. Upon -the gate is an inscription telling of the deeds of the -noble forlorn hope who led the way and opened a path -for their comrades to rush in. Other monuments -speak of the heroic telegraph operators who "saved -India" by sending far and wide news of the Mutiny, -and stuck to their posts though it cost their lives; and -of the gallant party under Lieutenant Willoughby who -blew up the powder-magazine in which they were -posted rather than let its precious contents fall into the -hands of the rebels.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Beyond the fort stands the Jama Masjid, the vast -mosque, said to be the largest in the world. It is a -great building of red sandstone and marble, "upstanding -from a platform reached on three sides by flights -of steps so tall, so majestically wide, that they are like -a stone mountain." At the head of each flight is a -splendid gateway, and that which faces eastward is -opened for none save the Viceroy, who rules India, -and the Lieutenant-Governor of the Punjab. At the -mosque are preserved some Moslem relics, which the -guardian priest will show for a fee—a slipper of -Mohammed, a hair of the Prophet, his footprints in -stone, and a piece of the green canopy which was once -over his tomb.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Now we will go into the city proper. Here is -indeed a change! Mill chimneys pour into the blue -sky their long trails of black smoke. Marble halls -and mighty Kings seem very far off as you traverse a -cotton-spinning quarter where Delhi measures itself -against Manchester. The narrow streets are dirty and -squalid, and filled with a crowd whose dingy robes and -shabby turbans bespeak the modern artisan of industrial -India. Many strange things has this ancient city -seen, but nothing stranger than this last turn of her -fortunes, when she bends to her clacking loom, and -boasts that with her own cotton she can spin as fine as -any mill in Lancashire.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst" id="in-the-mutiny-country"><span class="bold large">CHAPTER X</span></p> -<p class="center pnext"><span class="bold medium">IN THE MUTINY COUNTRY</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>Now we will leave Delhi and the Jumna, and strike -away to the south-east towards the parent river, the -Ganges. Our journey lies across a rich portion of the -Great Plain, and this portion has a name of its own. -It is called the Doab, or Douab, the Land of Two -Rivers, since it lies between the Jumna and the -Ganges. It is a most fertile stretch of country, well -watered and well tilled, yielding great crops of sugar, -rice, and indigo.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>At last we reach Cawnpore, on the Ganges, and now -we are in the very heart of the Mutiny country. -Here took place the most dreadful incident of that -great struggle—the massacre of white women and -children who fell into the hands of Nana Sahib, a rebel -leader. Their bodies were flung into a well, and -to-day a beautiful monument stands over the place. -The well is enclosed by a fine stone screen, and over -the gateway is carved the words: "These are they -which came out of great tribulation." In the centre of -the enclosure, directly over the well itself, rises the -figure of a beautiful white marble angel, and the well -bears this inscription: "Sacred to the perpetual -memory of a great company of Christian people, -chiefly women and children, who near this spot were -cruelly murdered by the followers of the rebel Nana -Dhundu Pant, of Bithur, and cast, the dying with the -dead, into the well below, on the 15th day of July, -MDCCCLVII." Near by is the pretty little cemetery -where the victims were buried when the British troops -seized Cawnpore two short days after the massacre.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The Cawnpore of to-day is a busy industrial town -noted for the manufactures of cotton and leather, and -when the visitor has seen the places connected with the -massacre, the railway will soon carry him to Lucknow, -where the most deeply interesting memento of the -Mutiny is to be found. This is the Residency, the -great house where the tiny British garrison, with -hundreds of women and children in their charge, held -at bay vast numbers of rebels from May to November, 1857.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The defence of Lucknow is among the finest stories -of British valour and British endurance. Assault after -assault was made by hordes of well-armed and -well-trained mutineers, for the men who wished to slay the -British had been drilled by them. Ceaseless showers -of shot and shell were poured into the place, and by -the middle of September two-thirds of the gallant -defenders were dead of wounds or disease. Still the -brave remnant held their own, and kept the foe at bay. -Among the earliest losses was the greatest of all. This -was the death of Sir Henry Lawrence, who governed -at Lucknow. By the foresight and prudence of this -great and unselfish man means were provided by which -the garrison was enabled to make good its defence; -but he was killed by a shell, and died on the 4th of -July, 1857. His grave is covered by a marble slab, -on which is carved this fine and simple inscription, -chosen by himself: "Here lies Henry Lawrence, who -tried to do his duty."</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Towards the end of September General Havelock -cut his way into Lucknow, but he had not men enough -to carry away the besieged in safety. The rebels closed -round the Residency once more, and the siege went on. -In November Sir Colin Campbell arrived with a -stronger army, and, after most desperate fighting, -defeated the mutineers and relieved the heroic garrison.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>As a memento of that stern struggle and noble -defence, the Residency has been preserved to this -day just as it stood at the end of that terrible six -months. The walls still bear the marks of shot and -shell, the shattered gates show where assault after -assault was delivered, the brick gateway of the Baillie -Guard is pointed out as the famous spot where rescued -and rescuers met.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The modern city of Lucknow is one of the largest -in India. Standing on the Gumti, a tributary of the -Ganges, it is a place of great trade, and its large native -quarter is packed with bazaars devoted to commerce. -This part of the city was once famous for the excellence -of its steel weapons and the beauty of its jewellers' -work. But the native Princes and noblemen who -purchased arms and ornaments are no longer to be -found, and these arts have decayed.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Lucknow is the chief town in the province of Oudh, -and when there were Kings of Oudh, Lucknow was -their capital. The palaces of the Kings still stand in -the court suburb, but there is nothing here to compare -with the magnificence of Delhi or Agra. The European -quarter is of great importance. Broad, smooth roads -run through it, shaded by trees and bordered by turf. -On either side of these pleasant roads stand the large, -handsome bungalows of merchants, of officials, and of -the officers in command of the strong force of troops -always stationed in the place. There are beautiful -gardens and parks, and the business streets are lined -with handsome shops and offices.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Returning to the Ganges, and descending the course -of that great stream, the next place of importance is -Allahabad, standing at the point where the mighty -Jumna joins its flood to the parent river. Allahabad -is a town of Akbar's founding, and the Great Mogul -built the fine red stone fort which is the chief object in -the place. The fort looks across the broad waters of -the Jumna, here about three-quarters of a mile wide. -"The appearance of the Jumna, even in the dry season, -strikes one as very imposing, with its enormous span -from shore to shore, shut in by high, shelving, sandy -banks, its then placid waters a clear bright blue. What -must be the effect in the freshes, when its surging -waters rush resistlessly past, and its banks are hidden -by a suddenly formed expanse of water more resembling -sea than river?"</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The spot where the Jumna pours its bright flood -into the muddy stream of the Ganges is a sacred one -in the eyes of all Hindoos. Great numbers of pilgrims -resort to it, above all at the time of the melas, or -religious fairs, held every year at the full moon in -January and February. They gather upon the sandy -shores and recite their prayers and bathe in the holy -river.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>But there is one spot on the Ganges still more sacred -to Hindoo worshippers, and that is Benares, the holy -city. It lies below Allahabad, and in the fort of the -latter city the mouth of a small subterranean passage is -pointed out. The priests say, and the natives believe, -that this passage runs to Benares.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst" id="the-sacred-city-of-the-hindoos"><span class="bold large">CHAPTER XI</span></p> -<p class="center pnext"><span class="bold medium">THE SACRED CITY OF THE HINDOOS</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>There is one city of India to which pilgrims are for -ever going or returning. Its temples are always -crowded with worshippers; its broad stone ghats -running down to the sacred Ganges are packed day after -day with adoring and reverent throngs. This is -Benares, the most sacred city in the world in Hindoo -eyes.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Its sacred character arises from the fact that here -stands the temple of Buddha, the great Hindoo teacher, -who was born six centuries before Christ, and whose -followers are to be counted in myriads in India. From -all parts of that great country they come on pilgrimage -to see the place where their master taught, and to bathe -their bodies in the sacred stream.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>It is a wonderful sight to see the row of riverside -palaces, temples, and ghats which here fringe the broad -river. It is still more wonderful to see the vast crowd -of worshippers who throng the wide stone stairs as -they stream up and down to the river to make their -ablutions and to repeat their prayers.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The best time to see this striking sight is at sunrise. -Then the crowds are thickest, for all wish to enter the -water at that instant when the sun springs into the -cloudless Indian sky and pours a flood of golden -splendour over the wide stream, and lights up the long row -of temples and palaces which face him as he rises.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Viewed from a boat on the river, the scene is one of -wonderful animation and of most brilliant colour. The -broad stone steps come down the bank in stately sweep -and vanish into the stream. They run on down to the -river-bed, and the saying goes among the natives that -the river is here so deep that it would cover the back -of one elephant standing on the top of another. Each -ghat is crowded with Hindoo worshippers, and their -robes of bright and delicate colours make the flight of -stairs look like a huge bed of flowers. But it is a bed -where the flowers are on the move, and mingle with -each other to form new pictures at every moment, -ever-changing combinations of the most delicate pinks, blues, -greens, yellows, of silk and muslin, with snowy turbans -and white robes intermingled with the brighter shades.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>At the foot of the great flight many worshippers -are already in the water. The men cast aside their -robes, and the sunlight strikes upon their brown -bodies and makes them glitter like figures cast in -bronze, and then flashes brighter still as the bronze -glistens with the sacred water flung by the hands or -poured from a brazen ewer; the women slip a bathing-robe -over their shoulders, and then remove their ordinary -dress, and not only bathe themselves but their -garments also in the sacred water. Many of the -devotees throw offerings of sandal-wood, betel, -sweetmeats, and flowers into the stream, and some of them -have great garlands of flowers round their necks. -These have been worshipping at a temple which gives -such garlands to those who frequent it, and now these -worshippers go into the stream and bend lower and -lower until the garlands are raised by the water from -their necks and float away down the river.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>At one place clouds of smoke rise into the air, and -huge fires are burning fiercely. This is the burning -ghat, where the dead bodies of Hindoos are burned, -and their ashes cast into the sacred Ganges. Every -Hindoo wishes for this, but only the rich can have -their bodies carried to Benares; for the poor it is -impossible. Yet, if the poor Hindoo has a faithful -friend who is going on pilgrimage, this may, in some -degree, be accomplished. A frequent sight is that of a -man earnestly pouring into the water a stream of ashes -from a brazen vessel. The ashes are those of a friend -who has died far from the sacred river, and have perhaps -been brought many hundreds of miles by the pilgrim.</span></p> -<div class="align-center auto-scaled figure margin" style="width: 65%" id="figure-136"> -<span id="benares"></span><img class="align-center block" style="display: block; width: 100%" alt="BENARES. *Page 46*." src="images/img-048.jpg" /> -<div class="caption centerleft figure-caption margin"> -<span class="italics">BENARES. </span><em class="italics">Page 46</em><span class="italics">.</span></div> -</div> -<p class="pnext"><span>And so our boat might move along the stream past -ghat after ghat and temple after temple, the steps packed -with those who wish to bathe and those who have -bathed. The latter spread out their clothes to dry in -the sun, and sit near them, reciting prayers or reading -sacred books or in the perfect silence of deep meditation, -their bodies rigid and unmoving as figures cast in -bronze. For miles this wonderful scene of devotion -stretches along the river, and the bank is crowned with -a broken line of minarets, domes, and towers, which -rise against the deep blue of the sky.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The first thing for a pilgrim to do is to bathe. -After that he must make the round of the city—a walk -of about ten miles—and pay a visit to the temples. -The ten-mile walk is more easily done than the latter -task, so innumerable are the temples of the sacred -place. Some, of course, are more famous than others, -and every one goes to see the Monkey Temple, where -offerings are made to a concourse of chattering -monkeys; and the holy Golden Temple, whose dome -is plated with gold, and whose shrine is always -crowded with devotees. Near by is the Well of -Knowledge, where the god Shiva is said to live, and -this well is half filled with flowers thrown in as -offerings to the god.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>For twenty-five centuries Benares has been a holy -city. Through this vast stretch of time an unceasing -throng of pilgrims has swept to it across the great -plain in which it lies. They bathe in the Ganges, and -visit the temples. Then they depart for their distant -homes, satisfied that they have set their eyes on the -sacred places of their faith, and in sweep fresh -thousands to take the place of each departing band.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst" id="the-capital-of-india"><span class="bold large">CHAPTER XII</span></p> -<p class="center pnext"><span class="bold medium">THE CAPITAL OF INDIA</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>Below Benares the great river flows quietly on, ever -widening as its tributaries flow in on either bank, and -watering as it goes vast stretches of paddy-fields. -Many pilgrims from the sacred city descend it by boat -as far as Patna, where they branch away to the south -on a new pilgrimage. They walk some ninety miles -to Buddh Gaya, where Gautama sat in deep meditation -beneath the sacred Bo-tree, and became the Buddha.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The place is held in the deepest veneration by the -countless followers of the Buddhist faith, and vast -numbers come to this day to see and worship at the -temple built upon the spot. Behind the temple still -stands a pipal or Bo-tree, and the natives hold that -this is the very tree beneath which the great teacher sat.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>As the Ganges approaches the sea through the -plains of Bengal it is joined by the mighty -Brahmaputra, which has swept round the eastern end of the -Himalayas, and brought the waters of Tibet down to -the bay. And now the mighty stream begins to break -up. The broad flood becomes diverted to innumerable -channels, and flows through an immense delta to the -sea. This delta is the huge, swampy flat of the -Sunderbunds. The Sunderbunds are very low, very -unhealthy (for the swamps breed malaria), and matted -with tropical jungle. The tide flows in and the rivers -flow out, making an inextricable confusion of channels, -creeks, canals, waterways, of every shape, size, and -direction. The water seems to flow every way at -once. The traveller is perhaps being rowed up a -channel, and his men are straining at the oars against a -strong current. Suddenly, without change of direction, -the boat is swept forward on a favouring stream. -From some side creek a fresh current has poured in -unnoticed, and now bears the boat on.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>In times of flood or high tide the low, muddy banks -can no longer hold the streams, and the whole country -becomes a vast swamp. The damp soil is hidden -beneath masses of canes and reed and low-growing -palms, and when the feathery fronds cover the scene -with a carpet of beautiful green the prospect is very -lovely. Among the brakes of this thick jungle wild -animals swarm in great numbers. Deer and wild-boars -abound, and the broad round marks of a tiger's -pads are often seen in the mud near a drinking-place. -Enormous crocodiles haunt the pools and channels. -From the deck of a river-steamer these huge reptiles -may often be seen sunning themselves on a warm -mud-bank. As the steamer draws near they glide -down the bank and vanish into the water. Between -their footprints a long, deep groove is left in the mud. -This is made by the great tail.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The chief branch of the Ganges is the River Hughli, -upon which stands Calcutta, the capital of India. -Calcutta is not the capital of India because either of its -beauty or position, but because of its immense trade. -It is the natural outlet for the riches of the vast plains -of the Ganges. Through it pour the vast stores of -corn, of rice, of jute, of tobacco, of tea, of a score of -other things produced by those fertile levels.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>As regards position, the site of Calcutta is bad, for it -lies on the flat beside the river, with the swamps of -the Sunderbunds on every hand. The heats of summer -are overpowering, and the Viceroy and his officials fly -to Simla, high up among the Himalayas. But in the -cold season the town is very gay and splendid. The -European quarter is laid out on noble lines. The -streets are of great width with park-like gardens, called -compounds, on either side. In these compounds, -filled with flowers and trees, stand large and stately -mansions, princely residences such as befit the rulers of -India.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The centre of Calcutta is the Maidan, or Park, a -great open space beside the broad river. On its -western side stands Fort William, the building of -which was commenced by Clive in 1757. The original -Fort William, where stood the famous "Black Hole -of Calcutta," was farther to the north, and the site of -the dungeon is marked in the roadway. A tablet on -a wall near at hand reads: "The stone pavement close -to this marks the position and size of the prison-cell in -Old Fort William known in history as the Black Hole -of Calcutta."</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>At one end of the Maidan stands the stately -Government House, where the Viceroy of India dwells, and -near it are many fine public buildings. The great -park is bounded by the splendid streets in which are -found the mansions of the European merchants, -bankers, and officials, and the Maidan is the scene of -the fashionable evening drive.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>North of the Maidan lies the native quarter, covering -six square miles, and packed with more than half -a million people. The streets are narrow, and the -buildings are of no great interest. The bazaars are -worthy of the traveller's attention, not because they -differ from bazaars elsewhere, but because of the varied -crowds of a vast variety of tribes and nations which -pour through this great centre of commerce.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst" id="across-the-deccan"><span class="bold large">CHAPTER XIII</span></p> -<p class="center pnext"><span class="bold medium">ACROSS THE DECCAN</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>The southern part of India is shaped like a huge -triangle, and within its coasts lies a vast triangular -plateau, the Deccan. In the fierce heats of summer this -huge tableland lies flat and grey beneath the burning sun, -save where there is water. Then village after village -of tiny huts thatched with palm-leaves cluster along the -banks of river or lake, and the water is lifted by every -kind of ancient device and poured over the thirsty land.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Water is all this rich soil needs. Given enough of -the precious fluid, the soil covers itself thickly with -crops of cotton, tobacco, rice, millet, saffron, and -castor-oil plant. Everywhere the land swarms with oxen, a -sure sign of the people's wealth.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>We are now in the territory of Hyderabad, the -greatest native State in India, ruled over by the Nizam, -the chief native Prince. This capital city lies towards -the south of the State, and is one of the most interesting -cities in India, not so much for its beauty or its -buildings, but for its life and, above all, for its military -population. Hyderabad is the paradise of irregular -troops, and it is also rich in regulars. Of the latter -there are some thousands of British troops, and 30,000 -who serve the Nizam himself; of irregulars, no man -knows the number, for every noble and chief maintains -a private army of his own, just as our barons did in -feudal times.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>It follows, then, that the streets of Hyderabad bear -the appearance of a military camp. Every other man -is armed to the teeth, and scarcely two alike in -weapons or uniform. A figure in turban and embroidered -robes, a girdle full of daggers, and a six-foot-long -jezail over his shoulder, is followed by a man in -trim khaki, and the latter by a trooper in burnished -breastplate and helmet of polished steel. A lancer with -long spear swinging from his arm jogs by, and the -next horseman carries a great scimitar; and so the -medley of figures and weapons passes by—rifles and -matchlocks, bayonets and tulwars, chain-mail and shields -of hide.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>But among the swarms of irregulars, the Arab troops -stand out by themselves. The Nizams are Moslem -rulers, and to provide themselves with Moslem troops -have done much recruiting in Arabia. The desert -warriors with their rough, stern, dark features, their -spare, stalwart frames, their robes of snowy white, -their triple row of daggers across their bodies, look -very different from the gaily-dressed, olive-faced, -handsome soldiery who are native-born. The Arabs -are as stern and rough as they look. More than once -they have got out of hand, and it has been a question -whether the Nizam ruled them or they the Nizam.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>To the south-east of Hyderabad the province of -Madras stretches along the shore of the Bay of Bengal. -This province is famous in the history of British India. -It saw the struggles between the English and the -French for the mastery of the land; it saw the victories -of Clive which raised him to power; it saw the rise of -English authority. The chief town is Madras, a large -but not a striking city, especially when seen from the -sea. As the traveller approaches by steamer he sees a -lofty lighthouse, a few spires, rows of tall offices and -public buildings, and Fort St. George—nothing more. -His vessel does not enter a bay, but a roadstead; for -Madras lies upon an open stretch of coast which is at -times swept by hurricanes of terrible fury. Yet, in -spite of this situation, Madras ranks as the third port -of India, and has a great trade. Some protection is -now given to vessels by a couple of breakwaters forming -a harbour.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The most interesting place in the city is Fort -St. George, for here the East India Company first gained -its footing in India in 1639. The fort was begun in -the same year, and this was the first step taken in the -path which led to British supremacy in India.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The native part of the city is known as Black Town, -and is a dense mass of poorly-built native houses -crowded along narrow streets, and thickly packed with -Hindoo inhabitants. The European suburbs lie to the -west o Black Town, and, as at other great centres, -consist of fine mansions standing in spacious compounds.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>To the south of Madras lies a country containing -cities where some of the mightiest temples in India -may be seen. Of these cities Trichinopoli and its -great temple of Srirangam may be taken as an example. -The temple of Srirangam is not merely, like the other -temples of Southern India, of immense size; it is the -largest temple in India. Its enclosure measures about -half a mile each way. It stands on an island in the -River Cauvery to the north of Trichinopoli, and is a -vast building which must have cost immense labour -and a huge sum of money.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The chief features of this mighty temple are the -Hall of a Thousand Pillars and the Horse Court, -which forms the front of the hall. The Horse Court -consists of eight pillars carved into the figures of -horses, each pillar "representing a stallion standing -on its hind-legs, its head supporting a bracket coming -forward from the pillar, and its fore-feet resting on -a monster attacked by the rider or on the shield of a -foot-soldier who is assisting in the attack. The horses -stand in other respects free from the pillars except at -the tails, which are split, or rather doubled, so that -each horse has two tails, one sculptured on each side of -the pillar. The horses, the figures, and the columns -behind are carved from a single block of granite." So -great is this temple that lofty trees flourish in its -enclosure, and it is said that the priestly families who -inhabit it number more than twenty thousand people.</span></p> -<div class="align-center auto-scaled figure margin" style="width: 63%" id="figure-137"> -<span id="native-troops"></span><img class="align-center block" style="display: block; width: 100%" alt="NATIVE TROOPS. *Page 59*." src="images/img-057.jpg" /> -<div class="caption centerleft figure-caption margin"> -<span class="italics">NATIVE TROOPS. </span><em class="italics">Page 59</em><span class="italics">.</span></div> -</div> -<p class="pnext"><span>In this part of India the fondness of the women for -silver jewellery seems to be greater than elsewhere, if -that be possible. Not only are they loaded with the -usual rings, bracelets, armlets, and anklets, but they -pierce the nose in three places to adorn it with trinkets. -In each nostril a sort of brooch is fastened, and the -centre of the nose is pierced to insert a large ring, -which hangs down over the mouth. A large hole is -opened in the lobe of the ear to hold a heavy ring as -big as a bracelet, and in one district a great ear-lobe -is considered a mark of beauty. It is said that women -may be seen, the lobes of whose ears have been stretched -and pulled out in such a manner that the owner can -thrust her hand and wrist through the opening.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst" id="at-the-court-of-a-native-prince"><span class="bold large">CHAPTER XIV</span></p> -<p class="center pnext"><span class="bold medium">AT THE COURT OF A NATIVE PRINCE</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>An English traveller in India who enjoys the opportunity -of paying a visit to the Court of a native Prince, -often gets a glimpse of a life which has seen very little -change for many hundreds of years. The native -Prince himself may be fond of slipping off to London -or Paris, where nothing marks him off from any other -wealthy visitor save his dark brown skin, but at home -he keeps the state of his forefathers, and the costume -and customs of his Court may be just the same to-day -as they were when Saxon and Norman were fighting at -Senlac.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>A state function at such a Court, for instance, as that -of the ruler of Udaipur is a most splendid ceremony, -and an English visitor of consequence will attend it in -the company of the British Resident. The latter is -the agent of the British Government. No native -Prince is allowed to exercise the absolute power his -fathers once held. At every native capital there is a -residency, and here lives the man who is the real -power behind the native throne, the representative of -the British Raj.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The journey to the palace will be made upon -elephants in howdahs carved and gilded and hung with -rich curtains. On the neck of the elephant sits the -driver in a bright dress, holding in his hand a short -spear, ending in a hook and a shining point. When -the riders are seated in the howdah, the driver urges -the elephant forward with voice and spear, and guides -him through the streets. An elephant procession -through the streets of a native city is one of the noblest -sights which can be seen or imagined. Two by two -the huge, stately beasts, with their ponderous swaying -stride, swing along between the rows of houses, whose -gaily adorned flat tops and terraces and balconies are -crowded by spectators in newly-washed robes of every -colour which is bright, and fresh, and gay. Here and -there in the procession float glittering standards of -silk worked in gold and precious stones, and the gay -dress of the drivers, the richly-decorated howdahs, the -splendid draperies which almost conceal the great -elephants, all shining and flashing in the sun, present -a wonderful picture of beautiful and stately movement.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>As the procession draws near the palace the way is -guarded by native troops, and these exhibit another -striking scene. Their ranks do not present the -monotony of Western uniforms. Each band of the -Prince's body-guard wears the dress of that part of his -dominions whence it was drawn, and a bewildering -variety of garbs and arms may be seen. One troop is -dressed like the Saracens who fought in the Crusades. -They wear armour of chain mail and glittering steel -helmets, and carry lances and great curved scimitars. -Next, the line is guarded by warriors in massive -turbans, clothed in robes of rich stuffs, and armed -with sword, spear, and shield, and with quaint firelocks -slung over the shoulder. Next stand men in gleaming -breastplates, whose helmets are sharply pointed, and -whose girdles are stuffed with daggers and pistols. -Others bear huge maces or heavy axes, and, in fine, -almost every weapon with which man has ever waged -war may be seen in the lines of stalwart warriors who -keep the way.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>At the palace itself the outer halls are filled with the -nobles and chiefs who owe allegiance to the Prince. -They are armed and equipped like their followers -without, but in more splendid fashion. Jewels glitter -and glow on great silken turbans; robes are stiff with -gold and costly embroidery; girdles are heavy with -weapons, whose handles are richly chased and set with -diamonds and rubies; pearls and emeralds and sapphires -flash from necklet or armlet.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Through these the visitors pass on to inner halls, -where they are received by members of the reigning -family and escorted to the hall of audience.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Here, in a noble chamber, the Prince will be seated -in state on a splendid throne. On either side stand -attendants, waving fans made of feathers or of -horsehair. The latter are only used to fan a Prince, and -are the emblems of sovereignty.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The English guests are seated on chairs, and the -nobles and chiefs, who have followed them into the -room, seat themselves on the beautiful carpets spread -over the floor. All except the guests are barefooted, -for the native company have left their gilded slippers -outside the chamber.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The Prince and his guests converse, and very often -presents are given and offered—shawls, silks, brocade, -or jewels. Perhaps nautch-girls will come in and -dance. They wear robes of shining gauze from head -to foot, and they dance with slow, graceful movements, -often singing as they move.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>At last the Prince calls for essence of roses with the -leaf of the betel-nut, and this is the signal that the -interview is over. Now the guests will be conducted -over the palace, to see the public rooms and courts; but -the zenana, the women's apartments, are never shown; -nor is the visitor supposed even to glance towards the -lattices and trellised windows, behind which the native -ladies are probably having a good look at him. The -evening will close with a grand illumination and -display of fireworks, managed with the utmost skill. -From a terrace, so placed that the dark smooth mirror -of a lake lies between himself and the illuminations, -the visitor looks upon a fairy scene. The pavilions, -the courts, the balconies, the lines of the palace itself, -will be picked out in points of fire, and the whole is -mirrored in the water. Then the fireworks leap into -the sky—rockets, great globes of many colours, fountains -spouting golden fire, and pictures of forts outlined -in flame and firing heavy broadsides from mimic -cannon. Finally the visitor climbs the ladder set -against the side of his elephant, while the band blares -out, "God Save the King," and goes home to dream of -the wonderful things he has seen, and to try to -disentangle the host of pictures which dance before his -eyes when he reflects upon his visit to a native Court.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst" id="the-religious-mendicants"><span class="bold large">CHAPTER XV</span></p> -<p class="center pnext"><span class="bold medium">THE RELIGIOUS MENDICANTS</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>India is the land of religious mendicants. They swarm -in every part of it; they are seen moving along the -country roads and in the streets of villages and towns; -they flock around every shrine.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Some are simply wanderers; they have abandoned -all earthly goods, have left their homes, and taken their -place among the poorest. Smearing themselves with -ashes, their only garment a wisp of rag—and this they -wear simply because the police will not let them go -without it—they ramble from holy place to holy place. -"Naked, homeless, he eats only when food is offered -to him, drinks only from the cup of cold water which -is given in the name of the Lord."</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Many of these men have been rich and powerful -members of the society in which they moved. Then a -day came when they laid aside their robes of muslin -and silk embroidered with gold; they left their great -houses filled with troops of servants; without a word -they slipped away from wife, from children, from -friends, and the place they had filled knew them no -more. They had gone to wander far and wide through -the vast plains, the mighty hills of India—strange, naked, -wild-looking figures, unwashed, unshorn, looking the -veriest outcasts of the earth.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Why is this done? For this reason. They feel -deeply the vanity of earthly things; they believe that -the more one can get rid of the needs and the wants of -the body, the nearer he will get to the Divine. So -they cast aside everything which pampers the body and -makes this life sweet, and forsake all things of this world -in favour of prayer and meditation.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>It is not uncommon to meet a man who has the air -of a naked, half-crazy savage, and to find that man -capable of arguing in the most able manner on the -highest topics. Mrs. Steel remarks: "They are often -extremely well educated. They will knock a false -argument into a cocked hat with easy ability. Some of -them—these naked savages—will astonish you by -quoting Herbert Spencer; for even nowadays they are -recruited from all classes, and they belong by rights to -the most thoughtful of each class." Such men as these -belong, of course, to the highest order of the religious -mendicants. The majority of their fellows are of a -much lower order, but one and all they practise poverty -and live only upon alms.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Many of them, of the fakir class, practise all kinds -of self-torture upon themselves. One, perhaps, has -held up his arm above his head for so many years that -it is now immovable, and stands straight up from his -shoulder, thin and shrunken, and as stiff as a piece of -wood. Another has held his fingers close shut in his -palm until the nails have grown through the flesh and -stand out at the back of the hand. A third has lain -for many years on a bed of spikes, until his skin, hard -as horn, renders so uneasy a bed no discomfort. There -are fakirs who have not stood upright once in forty -years. They travel by crawling, and as their cry rings -along the village street, the pious hasten to bring them -a handful of rice or a cup of water. It would be -useless to offer them better fare; they would refuse it. -An account is given of one fakir who sat so long -without moving at the foot of a tree that the roots -grew around him and fettered him to his place.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Many observers have been extremely puzzled by -certain powers which these fakirs possess. Fakirs have -been seen to walk across a row of upturned knife-blades, -each blade sharpened to the keenest edge, yet -no sign of injury could be perceived on the naked foot. -Another will climb a ladder formed of a single pole, -from the sides of which well-sharpened sickles stand -out to form the rungs. The fakir climbs to the top -and descends. He rests his naked hands and feet upon -the keen edges, and no cut, no mark can be seen; or -he walks, still barefoot, over stones raised to white heat -in a furnace. These feats have been performed in the -presence of English gentlemen of high standing in the -official world—men who have taken such precautions -that they were perfectly certain that the feats were -genuine—but they have been utterly unable to explain -how the things were done. And, finally, the fakir has -obtained such mastery of himself that he can be buried -alive, being left for a time in his living grave, and -restored to life again.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst" id="in-the-bazaar"><span class="bold large">CHAPTER XVI</span></p> -<p class="center pnext"><span class="bold medium">IN THE BAZAAR</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>What is a bazaar in India? It is, first of all, the -quarter where the shopkeepers are gathered together, -where the tiny shops stand in close-packed rows on -either side of the narrow ways, and whither all who -have money flock to spend it. But it is more than -that. It is the place to which those who have no -money resort just as freely, for here ebbs and flows in -one unending flood the news, the rumours, the gossip -of the town and country.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>All day long an Indian bazaar is filled with throngs -of buyers, sellers, newsmongers, idle loungers, -merchants, sightseers—all the flotsam and jetsam of the -city. It is always a scene of wonderful colour and -movement. The sun strikes into the dusty ways on -turbans of red, green, and orange; on robes of white, -pink and blue; on petticoats of rose and saffron; on the -bronze bodies of almost naked coolies who march along -beneath their loads. People of every colour—white, -brown, black, yellow—jostle each other in the crowded -ways, and there is a bewildering variety of tint and -form in the striking and picturesque scene.</span></p> -<div class="align-center auto-scaled figure margin" style="width: 63%" id="figure-138"> -<span id="a-bazaar-delhi"></span><img class="align-center block" style="display: block; width: 100%" alt="A BAZAAR, DELHI. *Chapter XVI*." src="images/img-064.jpg" /> -<div class="caption centerleft figure-caption margin"> -<span class="italics">A BAZAAR, DELHI. </span><em class="italics">Chapter XVI</em><span class="italics">.</span></div> -</div> -<p class="pnext"><span>The shops are, as a rule, of the simplest nature in -form—an archway, a booth, a hole in a wall. Upon a -low platform the trader spreads his wares, squats beside -them, and waits for customers. Let us stroll along a -row of shops and see what they have for sale. The -first shop has a crowd of customers, for it is a -confectioner's, and the Hindoo, big or little, old or young, -has a very sweet tooth. The confectioner spreads his -wares on tiers of shelves or on a counter made of dried -mud and rising in steps, and at the back of his shop is -a sugar-boiling furnace, where he is busy on fresh -supplies, pulling candy or making cakes of batter fried -in butter. He sells toffee covered with silver-leaf, -candy flavoured with spices, and many kinds of a sweet -called luddu, made of sugar and curded milk. This -stall is not only a great attraction to the children who -have a pie (about one-third of an English farthing) to -spend, but to the flies also. The latter come in myriads -to settle on the sweet stuff, and though a boy is always -at work with a whisk trying to drive them away, he -can never keep the place clear.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Opposite the confectioner's is the flour-seller, and he, -too, is a very busy man, for from his stall the everyday -wants of the people are supplied. Great numbers of -the Hindoos never touch meat, and the bunniah (the -grain-seller) furnishes the whole of their food. He has -a great number of baskets, and these are piled high with -barley, wheat, lentils, flour, sugar, peas, rice, potatoes, -nuts, dried fruits, and the like. He also sells ghee -(clarified butter) and sour milk. He has a big pair of -scales to weigh out his flour, sugar, peas, or whatever -may be called for, but no bags to pack them in: he -leaves that to the customers. One brings a cloth, -another a basin, another a brass ewer for milk. Many -have nothing, and they carry away their purchases in -their hands, or, if that be impossible, flour is poured -into the corner of a shawl or the fold of a robe. One -man unwraps his turban and knots his purchases into -various corners of it, twists it into shape again, and goes -off with his day's supply on his head. Butter and milk -are carried away in a green leaf dexterously twisted into -the form of a cup.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The next shop is one which finds the grain-seller a -very convenient neighbour, for it is a shop which sells -parched grain—a bhunja's shop. At first glance there -seems nothing in the place, then you notice a large -shallow pan set on a mud platform. Under the pan a -fire burns, and a woman steadily feeds the fire with dry -leaves and husks. A second woman is stirring the -corn in the pan, and as the grain parches and crackles -a delicious smell fills the place, and passers-by sniff it, -and stop and throw down a small copper coin on the -mud platform, which is also the counter. Then they -hold out their hands or a fold of a robe, and receive -the sweet-smelling parched wheat or maize, and go on, -munching as they walk.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Next comes a goldsmith's. Here is no glittering -shop with ornaments and precious vessels in the window, -as in a London street, but an archway or a booth of -mud exactly like his neighbours'. The goldsmith -himself is at work with his blowpipe at a little brazier, -softening and shaping a piece of gold into a bangle for -a customer. He is a busy man, for the country women -bring him their silver to be made up into the ornaments -they love, and he has always a store of ear-rings and -bracelets to sell.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>He sells his goods by weight, and weighs them in a -most delicate pair of scales, which he keeps in a -sandalwood box. His weights are the oddest things in the -world—"tiny scraps of glass, a bean perhaps, an -irregular chunk of some metal, a bit of stick, a red -and black seed, an odd morsel of turquoise, and a thin -leaf of mother-o'-pearl." His customers thus have to -take the weight on his word; and they do not always -care about that, for, as the saying goes, a goldsmith -would cheat his own mother on the scales. So that -hot words often fly to and fro across the mud floor of -his little shop, and passers-by pause to listen to the -fierce dispute.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Beyond the goldsmith's stands the shop of a cloth -merchant, and this is a very fine shop, one of the -grandest in the bazaar. So large is the merchant's -stock that his booth is really big, or he fills three or -four archways with his piles of calico and woollen. -Here you may buy the strong woollen and cotton -cloths of the country, made well and dyed in quiet, -tasteful colours—goods which will wash and wear for -year after year. But, alas! you may also buy from an -even greater store of the poorest and cheapest goods -which Manchester can turn out—cottons which will be -of the flimsiest as soon as the dressing is washed out of -them, cheap gaudy woollens made of shoddy, and silks -of no greater strength than the paper which enwraps -them. For the craze for cheapness has invaded the -Indian bazaar as elsewhere, and the splendid old silk -muslins, the brocade which would last for a century, -the woollen shawl that was handed down from mother -to daughter, find few or no buyers nowadays.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The druggist (the pansari-ji) contents himself with -one small room, but it is packed from floor to ceiling -with a thousand odds and ends—drugs, medicines, -spices, one can hardly tell what. He wraps his more -precious wares in scraps of paper, and stows them away -in baskets, boxes, pots, and pigeon-holes in the wall. -He prides himself on keeping everything in stock in -his line, and one writer speaks of testing a pansari-ji -by asking for cuttle-fish bone, "and lo! there it -was—just two or three small broken pieces in a paper -screw." The druggist may be the doctor of his -quarter as well, and a favourite method of cure will be -to write a mysterious talisman on a scrap of paper or -a betel-leaf. This is rolled into a pill and swallowed -by the patient. Opium he sells largely, and at evening -he dispenses the sleep-compelling drug to knot after -knot of customers.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The fruit-dealer's shop makes a beautiful patch of -colour in the bazaar, with its heaps of golden oranges, -of purple plums, of speckled pomegranates, of -jackfruits and guavas, and many other kinds. But, as a -rule, the fruit-dealers and greengrocers like a stall in a -more open place, where they can pile their big melons -up in a heap, and spread their wares in the lee of a wall, -and throw an awning over to keep the sun off.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Now comes the cookshop, where rows of turbaned -customers are squatted on the floor with bowls before -them, and the busy cook is at work over a fireplace fed -with dried leaves. He fries cakes of rice in oil, he -spits half a dozen scraps of meat on a wooden skewer, -and roasts them over charcoal. Then a big pot -simmers over the fire of leaves, and the smell of a -"double-onioned" stew is wafted across the place to -mingle with a thousand other queer smells of the -bazaar. He sells vegetables done up into all kinds -of shapes, and made hot to the taste with plenty of -curry; he pickles carrots; he has sweetmeats and -great stores of pillau, a dish of meat cooked in rice. -He has plenty of customers, for his prices are very low.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Then there is the kobariya, the marine-store dealer -of the bazaar, whose shop is heaped with second-hand -clothes, scrap-iron, and odds and ends. Mrs. Steel -gives a vivid description of the wares of the kobariya:</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>"Old things, and still older things, upside down, -higgledy-piggledy, hang on the top of each other: a -patent rat-trap shouldering a broken lamp, an officer's -tunic sheltering a pile of tent-pegs, a bazaar pipkin on -top of some priceless old plate, a parrot's cage filled -with French novels, a moth-eaten saddle keeping -company with an old sword, and over all, sufficient -scrap-iron to furnish forth a foundry; and in an old -caldron, incense spoons, little brass gods, prayer -measures, sacred fire-holders, all mixed up with battered -electro-plated forks, hot-water jug lids, and every -conceivable kind of rubbish."</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst" id="in-the-jungle"><span class="bold large">CHAPTER XVII</span></p> -<p class="center pnext"><span class="bold medium">IN THE JUNGLE</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>The jungle, the Indian forest, is the home of many -wild creatures, and the sportsman who goes into it in -search of them often has to take his life in his hands. -This is true, above all, if he is pursuing the tiger, the -most ferocious beast that India knows, the king of the -jungle. It is true, there are lions in India, but not -many, and the Indian lion is of no great importance: -the tiger is the beast of beasts.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The tiger is a terrible scourge to the Indian herdsman: -a big brute will often take up his quarters near -a village, and levy a regular toll on the village herds, -killing cow after cow, and buffalo after buffalo. He -is often perfectly well known, and the villagers see him -about the roads, or crossing their fields, or gliding -through the jungle without a sound on his soft pads. -If a dozen of them are together they do not fear him: -they march right through his haunts, shouting and -singing, rattling sticks on the bamboo-trunks, and -beating drums, and he gets out of the way and stops -there. This is if he be an ordinary tiger, a cattle-killer; -but if a man-eater haunts the neighbourhood, then the -ryot's soul is filled with fear. He dares scarcely leave -his house: to leave the village is to face a terrible -danger; he knows not when the monster may steal upon him.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The man-eater goes about his work in dreadful -silence. The ordinary tiger will often make the jungle -ring again with his hoarse, deep roar; not so the -man-eater. The latter glides without a sound, and under -cover of a patch of bamboos or a clump of reeds, up to -the wood-cutter felling a tree, or up to the peasant in -his rice-field, or up to a woman fetching water from the -well. Silent as death, he bounds upon his victims and -fells them with a single stunning blow of that huge -paw driven by muscles of steel. The great white fangs -are buried for an instant in the throat, then the body -is lifted in the mouth as a dog lifts a rat, and is -carried away to the lair, where he makes his dreadful meal.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Most remarkable stories are told of the ferocity and -daring of man-eating tigers. They have been known -to venture boldly into a village by night and carry off -sleepers who had sought a cool couch out of doors in -the summer heats, and by day they have made fields -and roads quite impossible places to venture into. -Villages and whole tracts of country have at times -been deserted by their inhabitants owing to the ravages -of these ferocious creatures, and when an English -sportsman arrives to tackle the savage beast he is -hailed as a deliverer.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>There are two favourite ways of hunting a tiger. -The first depends on the fact that he must drink. -The sportsman, by means of native watchers, discovers -the pool or water-hole where the tiger quenches his -thirst. Then in a field near at hand is built a machan, -a little platform where the hunter may watch and wait -for his prey. He climbs into the machan at sunset, -and waits till the tiger comes to drink at some time -between the dark and the dawn, when a fortunate shot -will put an end to the marauder.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The other way—a far more exciting and picturesque -fashion—is to pursue the tiger upon elephants. The -sportsmen are in open howdahs, and the elephants -crash their way through the long grass, the reeds, the -young bamboos, in search of the tiger. At last the -tiger is driven into the open, and bullet after bullet is -poured into his body by the marksmen. He is rarely -killed at once, and in his agony he will often turn -upon his pursuers with terrible fury. This is the -moment of danger. With the horrible coughing roar -of a charging tiger, he hurls himself with tremendous -bounds upon his foes. His eyes blaze like green -emeralds, his great fangs glitter like ivory. At -springing distance he leaves the ground and shoots through -the air like a thunderbolt, full upon the nearest elephant. -Now is the time to try the sportsman's nerve and -steadiness of aim. Unless the tiger be struck down by -the heavy bullet, he will land with teeth and claws -upon the flank of the elephant, striking and tearing -with terrible effect at his foes.</span></p> -<div class="align-center auto-scaled figure margin" style="width: 66%" id="figure-139"> -<span id="a-native-woman-wearing-nose-ornament"></span><img class="align-center block" style="display: block; width: 100%" alt="A NATIVE WOMAN WEARING NOSE ORNAMENT. *Page 57*." src="images/img-072.jpg" /> -<div class="caption centerleft figure-caption margin"> -<span class="italics">A NATIVE WOMAN WEARING NOSE ORNAMENT. </span><em class="italics">Page 57</em><span class="italics">.</span></div> -</div> -<p class="pnext"><span>More lives have been lost, however, by sportsmen -following up a wounded tiger on foot. The tiger lies -apparently stiff and still, as if already dead. The hunter -comes too near, and finds that there is a flicker of life -left. Before he can retreat, the wounded beast puts -forth its last strength to spring upon him and take a -terrible revenge for its injuries.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>We said that the tiger is the king of the Indian -jungle. There are some observers who dispute this; -they award the palm to the elephant. Certainly there -can be no more majestic sight than a herd of wild -elephants in their native jungle. They move slowly -along, staying now and again to crop the young shoots -or to spout water over themselves at a pool or river. -The huge grey bodies, on the round, pillar-like legs; the -great flapping ears; the swinging, curling trunks; the -rolling, lumbering walk, present a scene of great interest, -heightened by the antics of the baby elephants, the -calves, who trot along by their mothers and frisk -around the herd.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The Indian elephant is rarely pursued and shot—it is -far too valuable; but the capture and taming of these -mighty creatures is very exciting and interesting work. -In Central India, especially in Mysore, their capture is -usually carried out by means of a kheddah, a kind of -pound. Two huge fences are built in the forest in the -shape of a mighty V. The wide end of the V is often -a mile or more across, and into this end a herd of wild -elephants will be driven by great numbers of beaters. -The elephants are urged forward to a large enclosure, -into which the narrow end of the V opens. Once they -are in this, a great gate is dropped behind them, and -they are imprisoned.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Now the work of taming them begins. Tame -elephants take a great share in this, and show much -cleverness in bringing their wild brethren into captivity. -Two or three tame elephants, each with a driver on its -back, will surround a wild one, and hustle and push it -towards a strong tree. Now a man slips down from -the back of a tame elephant, and slips a noose of strong -rope round the leg of the wild one. This is dangerous -work, and the man has to be very quick and skilful. -The rope is now thrown round the tree, and drawn -tight. Other ropes are soon fastened, and the huge -wild creature is made a prisoner.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The task of taming him at once begins. From the -first the men move about the captive and talk to him, -to accustom him to their sight and presence. They -give him plenty of nice things to eat, and from the -first he does not refuse food, except in very rare cases. -Very often within a couple of days the elephant is -taking pieces of sugar-cane and fruit from the hands of -his keepers. Now the friendship grows rapidly. The -men begin to pat and caress the huge captive as they -sing and talk to him, and within a couple of weeks his -bonds are loosened, and he is led away between two -tame companions to complete his education.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>There is one elephant that no one tries, or dares to -try, to capture. This is the "rogue," and he is -pursued and shot at once, if possible. A rogue -elephant is a savage, vicious brute who has left the -herd and taken to a solitary life. They are very -dangerous, and many of them will attack either man or -beast that may come in their way. Their great size -and vast strength render them easy conquerors over -all they meet, and a rogue elephant is the dread of the -neighbourhood where he roams. To hunt him is a -very dangerous sport. He is very wary, very cunning, -and quite fearless. If fired upon he charges full upon -his foes, and, unless a well-directed bullet brings him -down, the death of the hunter is certain. The rogue -hurls him down and tramples upon him, smashing the -body beneath his huge feet.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst" id="in-the-jungle-continued"><span class="bold large">CHAPTER XVIII</span></p> -<p class="center pnext"><span class="bold medium">IN THE JUNGLE (</span><em class="bold italics medium">continued</em><span class="bold medium">)</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>Through the jungle bound also the swift deer and -the graceful antelopes, who so often have to fly before -the pursuit of their fierce neighbours the tiger and the -panther. The panther, when wounded, is actually -more feared by the hunter than is the tiger. The -panther is much smaller than the tiger, and his grey -skin, dotted with black spots, enables him to hide -himself easily among the tangle of the forest -undergrowth, for he resembles a patch of shade. His limbs -are long and powerful, and he is the nimblest of all -the jungle dwellers. He can run like a leopard and -climb like a monkey.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>He often lies in wait for his prey on a broad, -low-hanging branch; then, as the deer passes below, he -springs full upon it, and bears it to the ground. He -is very savage, and always full of fight, and his ferocity -is employed with wonderful cunning. Two men have -been known to fire upon a panther and hit it. They -were apparently safe, each in a machan set in a tall tree. -The wounded brute has darted up one tree and clawed -the man there in fearful fashion; then, quick as -lightning, it has descended, climbed into the second tree, -and attacked its second assailant. No other animal -does this. As a rule, a wounded beast makes a blind -rush; but the panther seems to reason, to calculate.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The bear is just the opposite. The natives consider -him the most stupid of animals. They say he is so -stupid that he does not know enough to get out of the -way. He will stretch himself in the warm dust of a -jungle path, and lie there until, in the dusk, the passer-by -stumbles over him. Then he is angry. He rises and -strikes out with his long claws, and often deals terrible -wounds, for he strikes at the head. One writer -speaks of seeing a man whose face was torn away—every -feature gone—with a single stroke of a bear's -paw. But it is easy to avoid this. On such a path a -native sings or shouts as he walks along. The bear is -aroused by the noise, and moves away into the jungle.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The wild boar gives great sport over the plains and -among the hills of India. He is hunted on horseback, -just as the fox is hunted in England, save that each -rider has a spear with which to strike at the big, -savage beast. When he turns at bay he is a very -dangerous animal. First he "squats"—that is, he -turns round and sits on his haunches—thrusting out -his snout, armed with great sharp tusks, towards -his pursuers. Then he picks out a horseman, and -charges him furiously. A fine hand with a spear will -now stop him with a thrust in a vital part; but if the -thrust fails, the boar will often fetch down horse and -rider.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Then comes a time of great danger, for the boar -will rip up both horse and man with swift turns -of his keen tusks unless his attention be drawn aside -by other attacks. In the end he falls under many -spear-thrusts.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>A walk through an open piece of jungle is very -beautiful. The bamboos with their feathery crowns, -the many trees covered with beautiful flowers, the -merry bands of monkeys which skip from branch to -branch, all draw the eye and the attention; but, at -the same time, it is best to watch where you are going. -All of a sudden your native guide stops you and tells -you to step carefully. You look, and see something -in the path among the sand looking like a dirty little -stick. But do not tread on it. It is the deadliest -snake in India, and its bite means certain death. Or -you think you would like to sit down on a fallen tree -to rest. Well, do not sit on that log which seems to -have a bright patch of fungus growing about the -middle of it. Throw a stick at the patch first. Ah! it -uncoils, and a venomous reptile slides into the grass -with angry hiss.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Look out, too, for the hooded cobra, who will sometimes -dispute the way with you, rearing himself on his -lower coils, and erecting his swelling hood, and -"meaning venom." But the most wonderful snake of all is -the huge python, the boa-constrictor, 20 to 25 feet -long, and with a body as thick as a man's thigh. This -huge snake destroys its prey by pressure, winding its -coils round the creature's body, and crushing it to -death. Then it swallows the body entire.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Another creature greatly dreaded by the natives -belongs partly to the land and partly to the water. -This is the alligator—a hideous grey brute, with huge -jaws, furnished with long rows of teeth, and a long tail -of immense power. On land the natives trouble little -about this great reptile, for his legs are short and his -powers of pursuit are small; but in the water or on the -sandy margin it is a very different affair. Be careful -where you bathe or draw water. A single sweep of -that powerful tail will hurl you into the stream, and -the alligator, lurking in the shallows, has seized you -for his prey. Above all, it is necessary to be careful -when walking along the pleasant sandy bank which -often borders a river. Here and there grey logs seem -to be lying on the sand. They may be logs or they -may be alligators sunning themselves. In the latter -case, if the walker be on the land side, well and good; -but if he incautiously ventures between the alligator and -the river, it is at the peril of his life. With the aid of -his powerful tail, the frightful reptile hurls himself -across the sand for a short distance at wonderful speed, -then his mighty jaws open and close upon his victim, -and the latter is dragged under water in the twinkling -of an eye.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The tiger himself, unmatched in combat with any -other beast of the jungle, sometimes falls a prey to the -alligator. Coming to drink at the river, the king of -the jungle is seized by the waiting reptile. A terrific -struggle follows. Unable to wrench himself from -those mighty jaws, the tiger uses his terrible fangs and -claws on the alligator's back. Here for once they fail -on that coat of horny scales. The tiger does not know -that the alligator is soft beneath, and there could be -ripped up by his claws of steel, and he continues to -spend his strength in vain. Inch by inch he is dragged -into the river, and once under water, he is lost. He -swiftly drowns, and the alligators feast on his body.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst" id="in-an-indian-village"><span class="bold large">CHAPTER XIX</span></p> -<p class="center pnext"><span class="bold medium">IN AN INDIAN VILLAGE</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>We have spoken of temples and palaces and the -magnificence of Kings and nobles, but now we must turn -to the homes of the common people, and see how -they live and work. Anyone who adopted the idea -that India is a land of general riches and splendour -would be making a very great mistake. The vast -mass of the people live, not merely in the simplest -fashion, but also in the poorest fashion, for the land -can scarce produce enough food to satisfy the wants of -its teeming millions. If the rains should fail and a -crop go wrong, there is famine at once over wide -districts, and vast numbers perish.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>An Indian village is a collection of small huts, with -walls of mud and roof of thatch. At break of day the -men, the ryots, go out to labour in the fields which -surround the place, putting their bullocks into the light -wooden plough, which scarcely does more than scratch -the soil. In the shallow furrow thus formed they sow -the grain, and then with hoe and mattock they clean -the weeds from a crop which is already springing up. -These few simple tools serve all the purposes of the -husbandman, just as they served his forefathers a -thousand years ago.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The women of the village go to the well to draw -water, passing on their way the village temple, where -they offer fruits and flowers to the stone image of the -Hindoo god, in whose honour the temple was built. -When they have drawn their water, they return home -to cook food and to work in the small compound which -surrounds each mud hut. Here they grow trees, which -yield the mango, plantain, guava, and other fruits.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>As they go back to their homes they cast looks of -deep interest at the door of a house where a figure is -seated. It is a Brahmin sitting in dharna, for this is -an out-of-the-way village where old customs cling fast.</span></p> -<div class="align-center auto-scaled figure margin" style="width: 65%" id="figure-140"> -<span id="a-native-bullock-cart"></span><img class="align-center block" style="display: block; width: 100%" alt="A NATIVE BULLOCK CART. *Page 86*." src="images/img-080.jpg" /> -<div class="caption centerleft figure-caption margin"> -<span class="italics">A NATIVE BULLOCK CART. </span><em class="italics">Page 86</em><span class="italics">.</span></div> -</div> -<p class="pnext"><span>What is dharna? It is really a form of intimidation. -Some one has a quarrel with the owner of that house, -and he has hired a Brahmin, a member of the priestly -caste, to sit on his enemy's doorstep without food or -drink, until the latter will do justice. The Brahmin, -having undertaken the task, is certain to carry it -through. He will starve until the person at whose -door he sits has given way. The latter always happens. -If the holy man were to starve to death, the sin would -lie upon the head of the owner of the house for ever, -and his fate in the next world would be dreadful. So, -before long, some arrangement is made, and the dispute -is settled.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The house before which the Brahmin is performing -dharna is that of the money-lender, by far the most -powerful man in the village. When a ryot cannot -make both ends meet, and he is in trouble either about -his rent or his taxes, it is to the money-lender that he -flies for assistance. From that powerful personage he -borrows a few rupees to tide him over the time of need -till his crops shall be ready for sale, and he has to pay -a very heavy rate of interest for the loan.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The money-lender is one of the oldest features of -Indian village life. From the earliest times his trade -has been in great vogue, and the Indian peasant is -to-day as dependent upon him as ever. Broadly -speaking, the ryot is always in debt. He is so careless, -and thinks so little of the future that he always lives -from hand to mouth, and a failure of his crop brings -him within touch of famine at once. Then he resorts -to the money-lender to borrow money to buy food or -pay his rent, and to raise the money he often agrees to -sell his next crop to the money-lender at a price which -the money-lender himself will fix.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The price is very low, and the money is at once -swallowed up to pay rent or the interest on the last -loan, and so the peasant is driven to apply to the -money-lender once more to obtain funds to carry him -on to the next harvest. In this way the ryot falls -completely into the hands of the money-lender, and, -in order that the unlucky husbandman may not escape -his clutches, the creditor employs men to watch the -farmer's crops day and night, and the latter has to pay -all these expenses.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Just beyond the money-lender's house is the dwelling -of the baid, the doctor. He is sitting on his veranda, -busily reading a very ancient book on medicine. It is -from the instructions in this book that he treats all his -patients. He has a store of herbs and roots, which he -uses to make pills and potions. He looks with the -greatest contempt on the European doctors and their -medicines, and declares that they do not know how to -treat Hindoo patients.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>As a rule, the baid is a very poor hand at curing his -patients. If they get well he takes all the credit; if -they die he says that the hour of their death had come, -and who can resist fate? But here and there are to be -found men who have so great a knowledge of herbs -and simples that they can effect wonderful cures. "A -curious cure of asthma is recorded of a European who -derived little benefit from the treatment of his own -countrymen. A baid offered to cure him when his -case had become almost hopeless. The European -laughed. However, getting quite desperate, he -submitted to the treatment of the Hindoo doctor, and the -few sweet black pills which the latter administered -wrought a complete cure. The grateful patient -begged the doctor to name his own reward; but he -would listen to nothing of the kind, nor would he tell -of what ingredients the pills were composed. Indeed, -this the baids will never do."</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst" id="in-an-indian-village-continued"><span class="bold large">CHAPTER XX</span></p> -<p class="center pnext"><span class="bold medium">IN AN INDIAN VILLAGE (</span><em class="bold italics medium">continued</em><span class="bold medium">)</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst"><span>Now there comes up to the veranda a quiet-looking -man with a little bundle under his arm, and the baid -lays aside his book. The village barber has come to -shave him. The Hindoo barber is a very important -man. Not only has he under his care the shaven -crowns, the smooth chins, and the close-cropped hair of -his neighbours, but he is the village surgeon also, for -the baid knows nothing of surgery. It is the barber -who bores the ears and noses of the little girls to put -in rings and ornaments.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>He squats down beside the doctor and unrolls his -little bundle and spreads out its contents. He has a -razor, a pair of scissors, a small steel instrument for -cutting nails, a leather strop, a little brass cup, a scrap -of looking-glass, and a towel. He uses neither brush -nor soap for shaving, but puts cold water in the cup -and dips his fingers into it. With these fingers he -wets and rubs the chin, and then sweeps his razor over -it with light and skilful hand, doing his work like a -master. When he has finished he rolls up his little -bundle and goes on to the next house, for he has a -fixed round of customers, and no Hindoo, whether -rich or poor, ever shaves himself.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Going thus from house to house the barber knows -every one, and is often employed as a match-maker. -In India parents always arrange the marriages of -their children, and the wishes of the latter are not -consulted in the affair. Indeed, marriages are often -settled at so early an age that the children do not -understand what it means. A girl is fetched from her -play and married to a boy not much older than herself. -She goes back to her dolls, and he goes back to school, -and perhaps neither sees the other again for years.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>In arranging these affairs there is often much coming -and going of the family barber. He has to find out -how much dowry the parents of the girl will give with -their daughter, or, on the other hand, he is sent to see -what examinations the young man has passed. This -is an important point. The Hindoos think a great -deal of such distinctions, and a young man who has -passed a University examination can get a much richer -wife than he who has not.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>At the wedding the barber is a very busy man. -Before the day he goes round to the friends and -relatives of the family inviting them to come to the -wedding-feast, and begging them not to fail in -attendance. On the day of the wedding he has to dress -the bridegroom, and when the guests are assembled he -hands round betels to chew or hookahs to smoke. -He helps to serve the wedding-feast, and when it is -over he distributes the fragments among the beggars.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The barber's wife is as important a personage as -himself. She is just as busy among the women as he -is among the men. She enters the zenana, the women's -portion of the house, to dress the ladies and adorn -them. At weddings she dresses the hair of the bride, -trims her nails, and arrays her in the richest robes. -Both the barber and his wife belong to the barber -caste. In India trades are handed down from father to -son, from mother to daughter. The children of the -barber and his wife are taught from their earliest years -the duties of their business: they, too, will become -barbers in due time.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>As the barber goes away the water-carrier comes up. -This is another important personage; for, in the burning -climate of India, fresh, pure water is of the greatest -importance. This water-carrier has not filled his -vessels at the village well, but has been to a spring at -some distance, where the water is very good. He -carries it in two large vessels of brass, and these are -slung from the ends of a pole which he carries across -one of his shoulders, one vessel in front and one -behind.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>If there are Mohammedans in the village you will also -see the bhistee, the Mohammedan water-carrier. He -bears his load in a skin on his shoulders, or in a pair -of skins which he slings across the back of a bullock. -He sells water only to people of his own faith, for -no Hindoo will use for any purpose water which a -Mohammedan has handled.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The larger houses have flat roofs, and from the roofs -of two standing near each other a couple of boys are -having a battle with fighting kites. Flying kites is a -very favourite amusement in India, and in some villages -old and young, rich and poor, spend much time on -this sport. The kites are square in shape, but of all -sizes, and in the case of fighting kites the string or -thread is passed through a mixture of pounded glass -and starch and then dried. The thread has now a keen, -cutting edge, and if brought sharply across the string -of another kite will cut it through, and he who succeeds -in setting his opponent's kite adrift is the victor.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>At the farther end of our village there is a large -native inn. This is by no means a common thing to -find in such a place; but, as it happens, a well-travelled -road passes through the country at this point. To see -this inn at its busiest we must go on some evening when -a fair is to be held in the neighbouring town, and a -throng of travellers pause in it for the night.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The inn itself, as we approach it, shows a square of -four flat naked walls. There are neither doors nor -windows to be seen, and the place is entered by a wide -opening, which can be closed by massive gates. Near -the gate are some small shops where one can buy rice, -flour, salt, and ghee to eat, or earthen pots for cooking.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Upon entering, we find ourselves in a big courtyard, -the middle of which is packed with the bullock waggons -and carts, from which the ponies and bullocks have just -been released and turned out to graze. Round the -walls inside is a wide veranda, and behind this -veranda are rooms wherein the wayfarers may sleep. -The scene is one of the greatest uproar and confusion. -Men and women are bustling to and fro, shouting and -calling to each other as they draw water, light fires, -cook food, feed their animals, spread their beds, and -generally make ready for the night.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Every inch of the veranda is taken up, and in front -of each room burns the fire of the party who intend to -occupy it. A wealthy traveller will engage a number -of rooms for himself and his family or servants; but -poor men club together, and five or six engage a single -room and stow themselves away in it. The cost to -them will then be about one farthing per head.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>The inn is under the charge of a number of -inn-keepers, each of whom has a certain part of the -inn-yard under his care and a certain number of rooms to -let. These people crowd about the traveller on his -arrival, each clamouring that his rooms are the best, -and begging for his custom. They are a thievish and -quarrelsome crew, and are looked down upon as a very -low and degraded class. In a native inn the traveller -has to keep a very sharp eye on his belongings. He -takes care to keep his money in a safe place, and he -never accepts tobacco or any eatable from a stranger. -There may be a drug in it which will throw him into a -deep sleep, from which he will awake to find all his -valuables gone.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>When supper is dispatched the traveller prepares -for sleep. If poor, he stretches himself on the floor; -if better off, he hires a wooden frame from the -inn-keeper, and spreads upon it his quilts and blankets. -Now the great gates are swung to and locked, and the -inn is securely shut up for the night. This is very -necessary, or some of the animals would be missing in -the morning. There are also men who keep watch all -night, and the merchant with a stock of valuable goods -gives one of these a small sum to take particular care -of his bales and animals.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em"> -</div> -<p class="center pfirst"><span class="small">BILLING AND SONS, LTD., PRINTERS, GUILDFORD.</span></p> -<div class="vspace" style="height: 6em"> -</div> -<!-- -*- encoding: utf-8 -*- --> -<div class="backmatter"> -</div> -<p class="pfirst" id="pg-end-line"><span>*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK </span><span>PEEPS AT MANY LANDS—INDIA</span><span> ***</span></p> -<div class="cleardoublepage"> -</div> -<div class="language-en level-2 pgfooter section" id="a-word-from-project-gutenberg" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> -<span id="pg-footer"></span><h2 class="level-2 pfirst section-title title"><span>A Word from Project Gutenberg</span></h2> -<p class="pfirst"><span>We will update this book if we find any errors.</span></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>This book can be found under: </span><a class="reference external" href="http://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/44968"><span>http://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/44968</span></a></p> -<p class="pnext"><span>Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no one -owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation (and -you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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