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diff --git a/44909-8.txt b/44909-8.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 46ff488..0000000 --- a/44909-8.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,1842 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of The New Forest, by Elizabeth Godfrey - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: The New Forest - -Author: Elizabeth Godfrey - -Release Date: February 14, 2014 [EBook #44909] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE NEW FOREST *** - - - - -Produced by Carol Brown, sp1nd and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - - - - - - - [Illustration: GIPSIES AT COLDHARBOUR] - - - - - THE - NEW FOREST - - - Described by Elizabeth Godfrey - - Pictured by E. W. Haslehust - - - [Illustration: Sketch of a castle tower] - - - BLACKIE AND SON LIMITED - LONDON GLASGOW AND BOMBAY - 1912 - - - - - Beautiful England - - _Volumes Ready_ - - OXFORD THE HEART OF WESSEX - THE ENGLISH LAKES THE PEAK DISTRICT - CANTERBURY THE CORNISH RIVIERA - SHAKESPEARE-LAND DICKENS-LAND - THE THAMES WINCHESTER - WINDSOR CASTLE THE ISLE OF WIGHT - CAMBRIDGE CHESTER AND THE DEE - NORWICH AND THE BROADS YORK - - - _Uniform with this Series_ - - Beautiful Ireland - - LEINSTER MUNSTER - ULSTER CONNAUGHT - - - - - LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS - - - Page - - Gipsies at Coldharbour _Frontispiece_ - - In Brockenhurst Village 12 - - Squatter's Cottage 16 - - Boldre Bridge 20 - - The Mill Pond, Beaulieu 26 - - Buckler's Hard 30 - - Lepe 34 - - "The Cathedral" 40 - - In Mallard Wood 44 - - Minstead Church 48 - - By Broomy Water 52 - - Burley Moor 58 - - - - - [Illustration: The NEW FOREST] - - -In these modern days, when towns are increasing on every side, and the -new idea of garden cities threatens to swallow up what little is left -us of the true country, it is good to remember that in one quiet -corner of Hampshire lies a sanctuary, a little region set apart with -its own laws and customs for over eight centuries for the preservation -of wild life. - -In our childhood we were taught to look upon the deed of Norman -William with horror, as an iniquity perpetrated by an inhuman -conqueror, and we spouted in the words of good Miss Smedley: - - "Oh Forest! green New Forest! Home of the bird and breeze, - With all thy soft and sweeping glades, and long, dim aisles of trees, - Like some ancestral palace thou standest proud and fair; - Yet is each tree a monument to death and wild despair." - -Now we have come to bless his name as one of the greatest of our -benefactors. Moreover, the scientific historian has been at work, and -has completely demolished the legend. The serious student may be -referred to Wise's _History of the New Forest_, where he will find the -evidence thoroughly sifted; for this slight story it will be enough to -gather up the results. To begin with, the Saxon name of Ytene, by -which the district was known before it became the New Forest, denotes -a furzy waste, as much of it is to this day--"hungry uplands and -marshy valleys"--and the fact that, although traces of Roman -occupation are found on the borders, and Roman roads seem to have -crossed it, no Roman villa has been unearthed within its precincts, -goes far to prove that this could have been no smiling land of plenty, -or the invaders would surely have settled in a spot lying so handy to -the seacoast. Buckland Camp, on its southern confines near Lymington, -shows that they had it in possession, and to this stronghold the -British general, Natan Leod, fell back when driven from Calshot Castle -by the Saxons. His Roman name of Ambrosius is found in Ampress Farm -hard by. - -Probably Canute, who had his capital at Winchester, and was much at -Southampton, had a chase here, for he, like Norman William, was a -mighty hunter, as the stringency of his forest laws testifies. -Regarding the size and nature of the district, neither churches nor -villages could have been much more numerous than at the present day, -and as some of the former, still standing, are mentioned in "Domesday -Book", the wholesale destruction of the old Chronicles must have been -grossly exaggerated. When William annexed the district to the Crown, -he most likely chose it because the greater part was wild already, and -the afforestation simply meant that he placed it under forest law with -a separate administration. Cases of hardship there doubtless were; -though there is record of compensation being paid to some dispossessed -owners, the smaller men may have suffered, and these being Saxons, -bitter feeling against the Conqueror was engendered, and as time went -on tales of cruelty grew to legends, especially after the violent -deaths of William's sons in the forest, held by the common people to -be the judgment of God. - -The whole tract taken by the king was about the size of the Isle of -Wight, a triangle, roughly speaking, lying between Southampton Water -on the east and the River Avon on the west, its base being the Solent -shore, and its apex running up into Wiltshire at Nomansland. Since -then its boundaries have been narrowed, passing a mile or two within -Southampton Water, from Cadnam through Dibden Purlieu, touching the -Solent at Stone Point and leaving it again at Pitt's Deep, cutting -the Lymington Road at Passford, and going by Meadend Bridge round by -the Avon Valley, along the rampart of high down to Breamore, where it -joins the old northern border. It has been further diminished by the -grant of manors to private owners and to Beaulieu Abbey, and by -encroachments of various sorts. - -To the town-dweller forest usually bears the prime signification of -trees; he thinks of a forest as a wood of large extent, interrupted -possibly by an occasional clearing: to the forester it means a great -tract of moorland, holding in its bosom many wooded enclosures, many -"lawns", as he calls the lightly wooded slopes, many long, marshy -"bottoms" or valleys dividing the heaths. The dictionary meaning is -just open ground reserved for the chase, and the derivation is given -as _foras_: out of doors. - -The two prime interests of the forest were "venison and vert"--deer -for the chase and wood for the dockyard--and for the due -administration of these a Lord Warden was appointed, usually a -nobleman, sometimes a royal prince, and under him two Rangers, one for -each branch of Forest Law. The fifteen Walks into which the Forest -was, and is still, divided were placed under fifteen Keepers, men of -position who inhabited the forest lodges--"elegant mansions", -according to Mr. Gilpin. Under them again were the Groom-keepers, -whose duty it was to browse the deer, to harbour a fat buck for the -chase, to impound and mark the cattle and ponies, and to present -offenders at the Swainmote, whether deer-stealers or encroachers on -forest land. They had an old distich for their guidance in the former -case: - - "Stable stand; dog draw; - Back bear and bloody hand". - -This meant that a man found lurking in a suspicious position, or one -with a dog pursuing a stricken deer, one carrying a carcass or with -blood on his hands, was liable to be haled before the Swainmote, -charged with deer-stealing. - -A Woodward, with ten Regarders under him, saw to the planting, -cutting, and preservation of the timber, and also assigned wood and -peat to those who enjoyed chimney rights. It is interesting to find -these rights extended to the forests of northern France by Henry of -Lancaster after those victories which caused him to arrogate to -himself and his successors the title of "Rex Angliĉ et Franciĉ". Some -of these wood rights were limited to the dead wood a man could reach -with a crooked stick: hence the expression, "by hook or by crook". A -Purveyor was also appointed on behalf of Portsmouth Dockyard to claim -the timber needed for His Majesty's ships. Besides these officials, -six Verderers were chosen by the freeholders and one by the king to -sit in the Swainmote and uphold Forest rights. - -Now, since it has become the property of the Crown instead of the -king--quite a different thing--the administration has been altered and -the officials are much fewer: it has been placed under the Department -of Woods and Forests, represented by a Deputy Surveyor, but the -Verderers still meet six times a year at the King's House to maintain -the rights of the commoners. - -And now the two main objects of the afforestation have nearly come to -an end: neither venison nor vert are of their old importance. The deer -had encroached so much on the foresters' rights, that their extinction -was decreed; a few yet linger in the north and west, but the Forest is -no longer for them. Moreover, since we have ceased to trust in the -"wooden walls of Old England", the demand for sound oak timber is -shrinking, and once in the utilitarian days of the last century it was -seriously proposed to throw the whole district open for cultivation. -Happily there were enough lovers of nature to save it, and it is still -preserved as a bit of the wild country our forefathers enjoyed. - -For the Forest has a peculiar charm which I would fain convey. Where -does it lie? Just where it is least sought; where the cheap tripper -complains there is nothing to see. Not by Rufus' Stone; not in the -drear formality of the Ornamental Drive; hardly under the big trees -where picnic parties leave their sandwich papers and banana skins: -rather where the brown rivulet winds its hidden way between the -rushes; beside the dark pool lying in the hollow of the moor with -deep, shadowy reflections of its fringe of trees and just a glint of -blue sky between; or along the green rides where the wood seems -endless; or on the high shoulder of the wide, lonely moor, sloping -away, fold beyond fold, to the distant sea, with all its wondrous -changeful hues, bronze and russet with bracken, purple with heather, -with sweeps of ling tenderly grey--yet most beautiful, perhaps, when -the amethyst dusk has swallowed up all shades, and the dark crest lies -against the fading glow of sunset. The palpitating song of the lark, -that all day filled the sky with music, is hushed, and the tawny owls, -with their soft flight like huge moths, swoop across, calling to each -other with their long tu-whoo. - - - - - BROCKENHURST AND THE MOORLAND - - -Instead of beginning with Lyndhurst in the middle of the Forest, as -most Forest books do, and branching out thence like a starfish, it has -seemed good to me to take first Brockenhurst, not only because at its -big junction many travellers arrive, but because in its infinite -variety it shows more of the characteristic features of the land. -There is the open Forest stretching away, with its wide views and its -silver border of sea, with its marshy hollows and crested heights; -there is the Boldre--_Byldwr_, or full stream--gliding through meadow -and thicket till it becomes the broad Lymington River and meets the -tide between the marshes; there are the deep green woods of the manor -climbing up from the riverside to meet other woods at Ladycross, or -opening out on the uplands at Heathy Dilton; and, lastly, the village -is still full of interest and old-world corners, though, alas! -threatened with development into villadom at the Rise and beyond. - - [Illustration: IN BROCKENHURST VILLAGE] - -Hard by the station, on a bare plot of ground, once a small village -green, stands the smithy at the meeting of the ways. It bears date -1540, and from the reign of Henry VIII till that of Edward VII a -Masters shod the horses of travellers at this spot; now it has passed -into other hands. Just beyond the forge a low-browed workshop and -thatched cottage used to stand a little back from the road, where Mr. -Pope and his forebears for many generations--one may say for many -centuries--practised a unique industry, the making of hobby horses, -for which the district has been famed time out of mind. The little old -premises with precious store of wood were burnt in a disastrous fire -one Christmas night; but the old business is still carried on, though -in new quarters, and still the traveller may see in the station yard -piles upon piles of these conventional steeds of exactly the same -pattern, beloved of our ancestors in their childhood, straight-bodied, -straight-legged, standing on four little wheels, so as to be dragged -along by a string, each adorned with a narrow strip of fur nailed -along his neck to represent a mane, and brightened with daubs of red -or blue paint, laid on with just the traditional touch. They go forth -in their hundreds--north, south, east, and west--to find a market; so -the children must love them still, and have not grown too -sophisticated to find joy in their crude suggestion. - -As we go up the village we note, with a sigh, how fast new shops are -ousting old thatched cottages, and new names replacing the old, -though still one, Purkess, said to be the lineal descendant of the -charcoal burner who conveyed the body of the slain king to Winchester, -carries on a long-established grocery business. - -Brockenhurst is hardly so much one village as a bundle of hamlets -loosely tied together, rejoicing in such names as Shark's Island, -Gulliver's Town, or the Weirs. Even the parish church is not in the -village, but stands alone on a knoll at the edge of the park, nearly a -mile away; but then it has only of late years been made a parish -church, having existed anciently as a chantry chapel, probably a -timber or wattled structure. Portions of the present building, the -nave and the beautiful south door, date from the twelfth century. The -Early English chancel is a later addition, and very much later is the -north aisle with its prim Georgian windows. It is thought the -dedication to St. Peter was made either when it was rebuilt in stone -or when the chancel was added. About the end of the eleventh century -it was placed under the charge of the vicar of Boldre, and after the -Reformation it remained attached to Boldre as a chapel-of-ease, served -by the same vicar until 1866, when it was made into a separate -ecclesiastical parish, the advowson being sold by John Peyto Shrubb to -John Morant of Brockenhurst Park. - -Though regrettable modern patchwork has marred the simple beauty of -its lines as approached from the village, yet, seen from the shady -lane on the other side, the little church is still delightful, seeming -to crouch down into its crowded graveyard with its high-shouldered -gables and its quaint steeple, surmounted by the traditional -weathercock. By the gate stands an historic yew, and another hollow -trunk is carefully shored up, showing scarce a sign of life amidst its -shrouding ivy. Big trees stand round, and about the grassy margins of -the lane the little rabbits nibble, scurrying away at the approach of -the early worshipper. - -The road follows the park paling, and at one point a double avenue -gives a fine view of the house, much of which was rebuilt in Georgian -style in the early part of the last century. Though stately, the front -is far less picturesque than the older portion facing the gardens. -These are a marvel of topiary art, with pleached alleys, arches, and -columns, not of yew merely, but of the far less tractable hornbeam. - -That Brockenhurst Manor, or the nucleus of it, existed before the -afforestation is attested by an entry in "Domesday Book": "The same -Alvic holds a hide in Broceste. His father and uncle held it in -parage. It was then assessed at one hide, now at half a hide. There is -land for one plough.... There is a church and wood worth twenty -swine." - -This mention of the church raises an interesting point. Recent writers -have referred it to Brockenhurst church, but since Boldre, of equal -antiquity, stands contiguous to the Manor of Brockenhurst--the -Broceste of "Domesday"--and was for centuries the parish church of -Brockenhurst as well as of Boldre Bridge, Pilley Street and Pilley -Bailey, East End, East Boldre, Lymington, and Sway, it is more likely -this is the one specified, whereas that at Brockenhurst was merely a -chantry attached to Boldre. In Dugdale's _Monasticon_, vi. 304, is -this entry: "Richard de Redvers, who died in 1107, confirmed to the -Priory of Christchurch, Twyneham, the church of Boldre with the chapel -of Brockenhurst. This confirmation was repeated by his son, Baldwin, -Earl of Devon, and by Henry (de Blois) Bishop of Winchester." In 1291, -by which time a vicarage had been ordained, the church of Boldre with -a chapel was assessed at £21, 6_s._ 8_d._, a pension to the Priory -being chargeable as compensation for tithes. The extent of the parish -is suggested by the saying that the blue lungwort with red buds, -called by the country folk "Joseph and Mary", is found only in Boldre -parish. Rare elsewhere, it grows freely in the south of the Forest, -most of which was comprised in that parish. - - [Illustration: SQUATTER'S COTTAGE] - -Beyond Brockenhurst Park the wide moor stretches southward to Shirley -Holms, westward till it merges in the high plateau of Sway Common -and meets the crest of Setthorns. North and east, Hinchelsey Moor -slopes down to the bogs that fringe the Weirs. The name of this -straggling line of squatters' dwellings has caused much speculation, -since of weir there is no trace, nor any water beyond ditch and -bogland. Some have been driven to the supposition of a wire fence -dividing manor and forest, but the name is old, and wire fencing is -not. Possibly the derivation from _Wer_, A.S., shelter or defence -(German, _Wehr_), may apply to refuge sought by outlaw squatters. The -_New Century Dictionary_ gives also "dikes", and as ditches abound on -both sides, this seems the most likely. Old inhabitants say that -before the digging of these ditches the district was so marshy, so -haunted, not by fever and ague only, but by will-o'-the-wisp and -colt-pixy, that it got called "the Weird", subsequently corrupted into -Weirs (pronounced "wires"). - -Shorn of much of its beauty by the disastrous burning of 1908, the -great moor has still the charm of space, of long lines of distance -only hemmed in by the blue hills above the Needles, and of an infinite -play of colour. The average lover of the picturesque fancies a moor is -brown all over alike. Let him stand here on the height and try to -count the hues. The glory of the furze will take some time yet to -recover, but already the ground gorse creeps about with trickles of -pale gold, and the heather spreads a rich crimson mantle over the -blackness, the true purple of kings. Later comes the silvery bloom of -the ling. The grass alone, poor and sparse as it is, has a gamut of -tints, through dull green and hay colour to ash grey, and in the wet -places are streaks of vivid emerald. The short growth of bracken that -clothes every rise is amber and bronze and russet, and in the rain -quite red. In the hollows spring bog-myrtle and sun-dew, sheets of -cotton-grass lie like shining pools, and in certain favoured spots -lurk the buckbean and shy blue gentian. - -No fear of losing the way on this stretch of forest, for from every -side may be seen the lofty, slender shaft of Arnewood Tower, looking -like a watch tower, and known in the country round as "Petersen's -Folly". Popular legend connects it with the Swedenborgian tenets held -by Mr. Petersen, and various tales are told to account for its -building. It is said he intended it to bear an ever-burning light, but -the Board of Trade forbade this lest it might throw ships out in their -reckoning, so it stands forlorn and purposeless, useful only as a -beacon to wayfarers by land. - -Leaving the high moor on the eastern side, a rough forest track -descends through dense pinewoods, haunt of squirrel and woodpecker. In -winter, sheltered from the wind that sweeps above, there is a hushed -stillness; but so soon as the spring sunshine has called the little -red, furry folk from their beds, one hears a continual light patter of -pine cones dropped between the needles, and earlier than the cuckoo's -call echoes the strident laughter of the yaffle. There is a singular -feature about this wood: composed for the most part of young, ugly, -and too thickly planted trees in rows painfully straight, in the midst -occur rings of fine old pines irregularly planted and surrounded by a -bank, their lofty wide-spreading tops rising above the rest of the -wood and forming what is locally known as a "hat". About them the -bracken rises breast high, its tender green catching blue lights in -summer, no less lovely when winter rains have reddened its rust colour -to match with the red tree trunks. - -At the foot of the hill by the river stands a gabled house, a short -alley of cypress and Irish yew leading to its deep porch. This is -Roydon, by some spelt "Royden", and interpreted as "the rough ground"; -but seeing that its green pastures by the river are less rough than -most parts, the sense _Roi don_, "the king's gift", is to be -preferred. For it was granted by Henry III to Netley Abbey, and, -reverting to the Crown at the Dissolution, was bestowed upon John -Cook, a "friend" of Cromwell, probably as compensation for some -subservient act of surrender. At his death, in 1587, it was acquired -by the Knapton family, who held the Manor of Broceste from 1582 to -1700. In 1771 it was bought by Mr. Edward Morant, and re-united to the -Brockenhurst property. In one of the older rooms a stone is let into -the wall bearing the initials W. H., G. N., and E. D., and the date -1692. A piece of embroidery is still preserved in the family signed -"Anna Knapton, Roydon Manor, 1685". For a quarter of a century the -house was in the occupation of Mr. Hooker, appropriately named -Sylvester, and in his time its pleasant rooms received many guests, -notably that delightful writer, Mr. W. H. Hudson, who immortalized it -in his _Hampshire Days_. Since then the alley, not pleasing modern -taste, has been reduced to six decapitated stumps. - -Along the stream lie fields lush with meadowsweet and purple -loose-strife, and the upper reaches are the haunt of the otter. -Another small, wild animal may sometimes be met with on the uplands -between Roydon and the moor. Not long ago I spied, scudding away at a -rapid trot, what looked like a queer little grey dog with almost no -ears and a bald head, by which last I recognized the shy badger. - - [Illustration: BOLDRE BRIDGE] - -The other side the river Boldre church stands on a hill, wrapped about -in woodland solitude, far from all its many villages. About a mile -beyond, on Vicar's Hill, lies the pleasant vicarage, in which a -century ago Mr. Gilpin passed his placid days and wrote his -_Picturesque Scenery of the New Forest_. He was something of a -dilettante, and modern readers may now and then smile at his rigid -canons of Taste--as it was understood in the eighteenth century. He is -very severe upon the beech tree, and one cannot help suspecting that -it annoyed him by refusing to blend with his style of sylvan -landscape. But he loved the often-unappreciated country along the -shore, and for this may be forgiven much. In the garden still stands -the mighty plane tree which he reckoned the oldest in England. - -Of his Charity School in the little cottage where the daffodils grow, -between Boldre Bridge and Pilley Street, nothing survives but the -name--Gilpin's Cottage--to keep his memory green. Not long before his -death he indited a quaint little pamphlet, recording his wishes for -its management. It deserves to be preserved for its sound good sense, -though, to be sure, its provisions seem a little out-of-date to-day. -Only the three R's are contemplated, and of arithmetic the first four -rules alone were to be taught to the boys, while for the girls neither -sums nor writing were held needful; reading, with needlework and -housewifery, were enough for a woman. Clothes as well as learning were -supplied. To our modern notions one pair of stockings a year for each -child seems a meagre allowance, till we recollect that shoes and -stockings would only be worn on Sunday. - -In his time the Foresters seem to have been a lawless race, and their -lives rough and hard; but nowadays one happy feature of life in the -Forest is the comparative prosperity of its poor. Many own their -cottages, being descended from squatters, and to most of the older -dwellings are attached Forest rights, comprising from one to ten loads -of fuel, either peat or firewood, liberty to turn out cattle or ponies -for a nominal fee, geese or donkeys free, and "pannage" for pigs--that -is, leave to browse in the enclosures in the season of acorn and -beechmast. These advantages are known as "chimney rights", and are -closely connected with the hearthstone. In old days, when lawless or -landless men often sought refuge in the Forest, a custom grew up that -an encroacher who already had a roof on and a fire burning on his -hearth could no longer be dispossessed; so often a hovel of sods, -heather-thatched, was put up in a night and the claim established. -Straggling hamlets of this kind sprang up usually on the border of a -manor, as at the Weirs, at Beaulieu Rails (properly Royal, being Crown -land), and at Hilltop. Now solid cottages in most cases replace the -hovels, and some have got into the hands of the jerrybuilder, with -lamentable results. The almost complete disappearance of the heather -thatch is much to be regretted: it makes a splendid roofing, as -impervious to heat and cold as straw, and its rich brown colour tones -in wonderfully with the moorland landscape, especially when wet with -winter fog and rain. - -I have heard the Forester criticized as "independent". Why should he -not be? He works when he needs, often for himself, and there is a -dignity about him, and a determination to stand upon his ancient -rights; he would rather give than take, and he would be affronted if -you offered payment for his little gifts of sloes, of honey, or of -"musharoons". The special forest industries are disappearing; the last -charcoal burner's hut is really only preserved as a curiosity. You -rarely see the gipsies platting mats or baskets, though there is an -old man who still goes round, and sits by the roadside, reseating your -old chairs with cane or rushes. - -One of the favourite camping grounds of the gipsies is a crest of -moor, fringed with Scotch firs, called Coldharbour, a name accounted -for by some as _Col d'arbres_, "the ridge or neck of trees". It may -well be, for the pines are a striking feature, very old and in their -grouping very lovely, shorn by the prevailing winds into harmonious -curves, bending away from the sea; for over Setley Plain the sea -winds sweep, and often the sea mists too. Lifting my eyes from my -writing, I can see as many as three caravans drawn up in the shade, -for it is fair-time, and the spot, but just aside from the high road, -affords a night's shelter to these nomads who travel from fair to -fair, pasture too for their horses, and water from a pond formed at -the bottom of an old gravel pit just below. - -It is generally the vanners who come to this spot, vagrants rather -than true gipsies ("Diddyki", the Romany calls them), and untidy in -their leavings, which the genuine gipsy seldom is. These prefer to set -up their snug little tents in the thicket of the Brake just across the -plain. Here I have found a young mother with an infant of days in a -tent on hoops, not much larger than a gig-umbrella, a fire hard by in -a bell tent with a hole at the top. Going to pay a call with a pink -flannel to wrap the baby in, I found mother and child warm, happy, and -content, the former rejoicing in the permission accorded, under these -circumstances, of a stay of two weeks. Once I ventured to condole with -a gipsy woman on wild wintry weather in such a tent. She tossed back -her jet-black plaits: "Oh, I likes it, my dear; I'm used to it, ye -see". - -If by nothing else, the gipsy may be distinguished from the ordinary -tramp by his cheerful insouciant outlook on life, as well as a sense -of humour not yet quenched by the Missioner, the Board School, and the -perpetual harass of having to move on. These three factors, especially -the second, tend to stamp out the gipsy as a race apart, or to make of -him a very unsatisfactory low-class vagrant--a poor exchange. -Unhappily the Missioner is rarely content to bring religion to the -gipsy and leave him a gipsy still. He must needs try and induce him to -abandon his way of life, to forsake his wholesome tent for an -insanitary slum, and to send his children to school. If the Board -School system is turning out a failure for our little peasants, what -can we say for it when it claims the gipsy? The gipsy child simply -cannot assimilate book-learning. He goes in sharp as a needle, cunning -as a fox, sagacious with ancient woodland lore, long-sighted, keen of -ear and scent; he comes out stupid, blear-eyed, often slightly deaf. -The new knowledge drops away from him in a month; the old has been -stamped out. You have made of him a lazy good-for-nothing, liable to -colds and ailments hitherto unknown. - -One rainy winter day I met a gipsy friend of mine and stopped to buy a -brush. A little girl of eleven was helping to carry the basket; the -wet and mud were squishing out of the poor child's boots, from the -burst sides of which a sopped rag of stocking was exuding. I -suggested that bare feet would be safer. "True it is, my lady, and -full well I know it, but what can I do? 'Tis the schoolalities, you -see; to school she must go, and I don't like for folks to pass remarks -on my children." - - - - - BEAULIEU, BETWIXT THE WOOD AND THE SEA - - -Beyond Ladycross, anciently the boundary of the Abbey right of -Sanctuary, opens another wide heath stretching every way--high, -wind-swept, looking southward to Tennyson's monolith on Beacon Down, -eastward to Portsdown Hill. At Hatchett Gate, where a pond with a bit -of white paling and some wind-bent pines breaks the monotony, a truly -modern note is struck, for close by Mr. Drexel has set up his hangars -and his School of Aviation, and on the rare occasions when the wind -drops a monoplane may be seen hovering over the waste. Thence the road -goes steeply down to the valley through which the Exe finds its way to -the sea, and over a jumble of red roofs gleams a broad water, and -beyond, on green lawns, rises the old grey Palace House, once the -residence of the abbot. This was the fair spot, the _Bellus Locus_, -which John, though he loved not monks, chose for the Cistercian Abbey -which, in a fit of compunction, he founded in 1204. - - [Illustration: THE MILL POND, BEAULIEU] - -It was no life of idle contemplation that the brethren led. On the -slopes above they had their vineyards, terraced towards the sun, with -a raised causeway to wheel the grapes down to the wine-press, where -the crumbling grey walls are still standing. Masons, too, must have -been busy building and beautifying the great church, now level with -the ground, though the foundations have been carefully traced and -marked out. As cultivated land increased, granges were built, of which -several remain: St. Leonard's, with its huge barn and portions of its -chapel yet standing, Herford, and Sowley Grange over against Sowley -pond, once called Colgrim Mere, where there were ironworks. The map in -Gilpin's _Picturesque Scenery_ shows an opening to the sea at Pitt's -Deep where the iron used to be shipped. The rival north soon carried -off the trade, but Sowley firebacks may still be picked up in the -neighbourhood. - -The name Bergery, near Park, denotes a sheepcote, and Bouvery, spelt -in the maps Beaufré, is, of course, the ox farm; there is also a -Swinesley not far off, so the industries of the monks were many and -various. But this busy, peaceful life was all too prosperous, rousing -the cupidity of the king in the troubled times of the Reformation. To -justify the spoliation, exaggerated tales of the scandal of sanctuary -rights were told, and commissioners came down with their minds made up -beforehand. Doubtless it was a matter liable to abuse, but in the rude -days of blood feud and swift vengeance it was no bad thing that the -Church should be able to stretch a sheltering arm over the criminal. -But into all these questions this is no place to enter. Suffice it -that the last abbot appointed was a creature of Cromwell's who, with -thirty of his monks, was induced to sign a deed of surrender in -consideration of a pension. The riches of the stately abbey went into -the king's coffers, the domain was conferred on Thomas Wriothesley, -Earl of Southampton, grandfather to that Henry Wriothesley who was the -friend of Shakespeare. Through marriage it passed to the Dukedom of -Montague, then to that of Buccleuch, in which family it still remains -in the person of Lord Montague of Beaulieu. - -The whole story may be found in Sir James Fowler's recently published -_History of Beaulieu Abbey_, with remarkable illustrations by Mr. F. -Fissi, reconstructing from old records the abbey as it must have -looked in its living days. The residence has, of course, known many -alterations: the old vaulted room of the great gatehouse is now the -dining-room of the Palace House, and the fine inner hall also belongs -to the original building. On the floor above, what was once the chapel -has been converted into a stately drawing-room, panelled probably in -Tudor times when it was secularized. Much, of course, has been added -at different dates. Not much more than a century ago the last Duke of -Montague erected a castellated wall with a moat, fearing the descent -of French privateers by the river. The old refectory makes a very -lovely little church, the pulpit being the raised desk for the lector, -approached by an arcade in the wall. Close by the church, in the shade -of a row of lime trees fragrant and murmurous with bees, stands the -Domus or Guest House--for hospitality was one of the prime obligations -of the monks--now happily restored by Lord Montague and made a place -of hospitality once more, the veritable centre of the social life of -the village. - -About two miles down the river, on the other shore, lies one of the -quaintest, most interesting spots in the whole neighbourhood. Coming -on it from above, it is almost startling in its oddity. It is hardly a -village, just a wide street, grass-grown and asleep, leading down -abruptly to queer and unaccountable remains of docks and stays, for -this--this little desolate hamlet--was once, and not so long ago -either, one of the important dockyards of this great seafaring nation -of ours. From this cradle issued the _Agamemnon_, which carried -Nelson at the battle of the Baltic, the _Euryalus_ and the -_Swiftsure_, which both took part in the fight at Trafalgar. The last -Duke of Montague proposed to build a town here and make it a port for -the sugar trade with the West Indies, as he owned the island of St. -Lucia; but by the Peace of 1748 this was ceded, and his scheme lapsed. -The possibilities of the place, and especially the nearness to the -Forest for the supply of oak timber, were seized upon by Henry Adams, -who set up his shipbuilding yards, and turned out several fine -frigates. In 1794 Gilpin writes: "The great number of workmen whom -this business brought together, have given birth by degrees to a -prosperous village". The end was tragic: Henry Adams was succeeded by -his two sons, who carried on the business on the same lines; they were -commissioned to build four ships by the Admiralty, and being unable to -deliver them at the time agreed, were ruined by fines and litigation. -Had this not happened, the business could not long have held its own; -as wood was superseded by iron, the advantage of the Forest would have -been lost; moreover, there is little doubt that the Exe is gradually -silting up as the Lymington river has done. - - [Illustration: BUCKLER'S HARD] - -The good days of Buckler's Hard are over, and no regular ferry plies -now between the once busy dockyard and the farther shore; but the -chances are the traveller will find an old boatman to put him across -and land him under a dense wood, where a group of tall pines rises -above a thick growth of oak and beech, and, following the road to the -beach, he will come upon a scene typical of the strip of coast that -borders the Forest, "betwixt the woods and the sea". - -Here is no glory of headland, no fierceness of breaker on the reef, -but a wide water, infinitely blue, lapping on the grassy margin where -the trees lean over, or lying far out in long, shining lines between -the flats--golden, purple, olive brown--where the white gulls stalk -and feed--ungainly birds on land--and beyond again, sapphire and -amethyst, rise the softly rounded chalk hills of the Island, ending in -the milk-white Needles. Far to the left may possibly be discerned a -dreadnought or two, just below where the escarpment on Portsdown Hill -shows like a white smudge above the harbour. - -The stones of the little beach are not worn smooth with the tide, but -are loose and rough, held together by sea-holly and yellow -horned-poppy and the coarse tawny grass that disputes the land with -the seaweed. It is a place to dream in; not this time of the building -of ships nor yet of the "White Company", but of long-past days when -the Greek merchants used to come across Gaul from Massilia -(Marseilles) and trade with Lepe for tin. A Roman road then crossed -the Forest from the port to convey merchandise to the settlements of -the Roman Provincials, and William the Norman and his Forest Laws were -not yet looming on the horizon. - -In Gilpin's day Lepe was "one of the port towns of the Forest, and, as -it lies opposite Cowes, the common place of embarkation to the -island". He also records the tradition that it was from this remote -port that the Dauphin took ship, on the death of John, after his -fruitless attempt on the English Crown. And here, also, the -unfortunate Charles was brought from Titchfield House on his way to -Carisbrooke under the ill-starred guidance of Ashburnham. "Here he was -seated in an open boat, and from these shores he bade a last farewell -to all his hopes in England." - -Well may old Gilpin have averred that this southeast corner holds some -of the loveliest bits of forest scenery, for within sight of the sea -lies an enchanted wood, hard to find, impossible of access by motor, a -place from which the cheap tripper will turn aside with the remark -that there is nothing to see. It is true; yet the initiated may not -impossibly find that the way through the wood is the way through the -ivory gates. For him it holds a charm of restful silence, a beauty of -gleam and gloom, of blue shadow sprinkled with the fairy whiteness of -the enchanter's nightshade, of spaces of sunlight lying on the golden -bracken, broad ways that must surely lead to the magician's castle, -and narrow winding paths that can but have their goal in Elfland. - -It is what in these parts we call a holm, a grove of oaks with a thick -underwood of hollies grown into weird shapes with frequent cutting. -Here and there is an aged thorn which has attained almost the size and -girth of a forest tree, and in places Scotch firs lift their stately -heads. In their tops the sea-sound murmurs, and about them is the hot -fragrance the sun draws out of their resinous branches mingling with -the tanny odour of the bracken. An alley through hollies meeting -overhead is like a tunnel; it issues on a broad sunny level where four -roads meet, each beckoning so enticingly, one is fain to sit down -awhile to weigh their claims. One source of the peculiar loveliness of -such a holm is that all the ways are green. The grass will flourish -under oaks and hollies while it perishes under the beech, and where -the fir trees stand, their roots are shrouded in bracken which in -summer takes up the tale of greenness, and when October frosts come -lights up the ways with gold. - -It is a long coppice, and so strangely shaped that it is possible to -make endless wanderings, and even to achieve the losing of one's way, -till dusk falls and the owls are hooting to each other from upland to -covert, and along the moonlit border of the wood the nightjar is -churring with tumbling flight. - -One thing only mars the harmony: over against a tumbledown thatched -cottage a pert, shallow erection in reddest of red brick and shiniest -of slate hideously obtrudes itself on the greenness. Yet the story of -it is not without pathos. An old labourer, who had never earned more -than fifteen shillings a week, saved and saved till he could buy the -old cottage and build the new one in the pride of his heart. - - - - - LYNDHURST, THE GREENWOOD - - -Big village or little country town, as it may be regarded, Lyndhurst -is not only the centre but the veritable capital of the district; for -here, at the top of the steep street, stands the King's House, still -the seat of government, and now inhabited by the Deputy Surveyor, who -succeeded to the position of the Lord Warden. There is little of the -palace of kings about the house, a solid and dignified yet homely -structure standing close upon the pavement. It was built by Charles II -on the site of an earlier one where his father often stayed for a few -days' sport. It was from here, no doubt, that Charles Louis, the young -exiled Elector Palatine, wrote to his mother of accompanying his uncle -on a hunting excursion, and dated his letter "Lindust". Of late it has -rarely been the residence of royalty. When George III on his way to -his beloved Weymouth broke his journey, he was wont to stay at -Cuffnells, with its wide park and its glory of rhododendrons, as the -guest of Mr. George Rose, the friend of Pitt. But he seems to have -honoured the King's House on one occasion. - - [Illustration: LEPE] - -Adjoining it, but with a separate entrance to the street, is the old -Court House, in which for centuries the Swainmote has been held. Still -six times a year the Verderers meet the Deputy Surveyor for the -adjustment of any differences that may arise between the rights of the -Commoners and those of the Crown. It is a fine old hall, though not -large, panelled in oak and adorned with antlers. One very curious -double pair are interlocked, the two stags having fought and become so -entangled that both died of starvation before they were found. There -is also an old stirrup iron, assigned traditionally to Rufus, but -declared by experts to be not earlier than the time of Henry VIII. -There is an oaken judge's seat and a table round which the Verderers -sit like a board meeting, and a very ancient dock, worn shiny with the -elbows and shoulders of delinquents--deer-stealers or encroachers. - -The church occupies an eminence that should have made for beauty and -impressiveness, but fritters away its advantage by a trivial little -spire, further diminished in effect by an unmeaning pattern in -coloured tiles upon the slate like the trimming on a woman's -petticoat. - -Lyndhurst stands in the very midst of the greenwood. All around it -lies, deep in shade and silence, and, turning aside from the dusty -highway, it is still possible to forget the existence of blaring motor -or hilarious chars-à-bancs. Through the long green glades one may -ramble for a whole summer day without meeting so much as a keeper to -ask one's way. As to maps, the highway once left, they are a delusion -and a snare, giving paths that lead nowhither, or worse, land the -traveller in an impassable morass. The safest rule is, follow the -widest; it is sure to bring you out somewhere, if not in the direction -you want to go, for the Forest is well intersected with roads. The -only other risk is from vipers--especially now "Brusher Mills", the -snake-catcher, is no more. - -The wanderer, if not a first-rate walker, will do well to mount a -pony--a forest pony, be it said; for they know a bog when they see -it, and will not set foot upon its promising but treacherous surface. -Moreover, they are immune from the attacks of the maddening forest -fly, and if they do not know the way, are at least likely to make a -better guess at it than a bicycle. Taking cover just beyond Millyford -Bridge from off the hot highroad, and turning through Puckpits to -Withybed Bottom, I have sighed for a four-footed beast, especially -when presently the only way goes up a steep hill between paltry -plantations of young firs, giving not the least modicum of shade, by a -track that had been bog in winter, and has become a mass of sun-baked -clods. A pony would have picked his way and carried his rider; at -least he would not have required to be shoved up the hill by main -force, like my unfortunate Lee Francis. Compensation is in store: at -the top of the hill a lovely upland opens out, shaded by detached -groups of splendid beeches in their prime, with no underwood to -obscure the modelling of their grey-green columns. It is unusual to -see the ground beneath beech trees a vivid green, since grass will not -grow at their roots, but all about was a close-growing bed of -bog-myrtle, softer and brighter than bracken in its hue. Beneath the -slope, radiant in sunshine, lies a wide misty valley, and beyond it -the eye travels to blue heights of down above Winchester. The track -across the upland would lead to Stonycross, but of this more anon; we -must return to the woodland. - -The better-known enclosures are those of Mark Ash, Knightwood, and -Rhinefield. These are all crossed by practicable roads, and, though -full of fine trees and great beauty, seem to have lost something of -the indefinable wild-wood charm that haunts the lonelier spots. The -excursionist who likes to see something definite will visit the "King -of the Forest" and the noted Knightwood Oak, which has had to be -fenced round to preserve it from the attentions of its admirers. -Across Rhinefield runs the much-visited Ornamental Drive. Heavy -Wellingtonias and dark evergreens stand in stiff rows, gloomy without -impressiveness, utterly out of keeping with the surroundings. To me -the only pleasure connected with it is the sense of escape with which -one emerges and finds oneself beneath the beeches at Vinny Ridge, -after two miles of drear and dusty formality. For the roadway, instead -of being left, like the grassy and well-trodden bridle-paths of the -forest, to Nature's keeping, has been ploughed up and cleared of the -binding roots and turf without being made into a proper road. -Pony-cart or bicycle has to plod its weary way through a foot or two -of loose sand in summer, thick mud in winter. - -One happy way of exploring these woods is to choose some stream and -follow its course as far as may be. Bolderford Bridge over Highland -Water is a good starting-point, and begins with Queen's Bower, a very -favourite spot. Fine old oaks stand about a lawn round which the brook -meanders. In late autumn or early spring I have seen it look very -beautiful, but in a parched August, the brook low, the grass worn and -burnt, adorned, moreover, with the debris of many a picnic party, it -has rather a jaded air. The actual Bower, which the country folk call -Queen Anne's, is an almost island formed by a loop of the stream, -where a grove of slender ash trees surrounds a sturdy oak. I have not -been able to discover what Queen it was connected with, but make no -doubt it must have been the golden-haired Danish princess of the -nursery game-- - - "Queen Anne, Queen Anne, she sits in the sun - As fair as a lily, as white as a swan"-- - -rather than the homely daughter of Anne Hyde. Moreover, Anne of -Denmark and her spouse, James I, both passionately loved sport and -pageants, and may well have had some little masque arranged there for -their entertainment while staying at the King's House for hunting. - -Keeping as close as may be to the stream, the way leads by a lovely -beechen avenue through Briken Wood to issue on the road to Bank, -prettiest of suburbs, where the houses stand in an irregular row on -the top of a tableland, looking northwards to more woods. But if we -cross the road and continue to follow Highland Water, climbing through -the woods again, we reach a curious and interesting little bridge, the -rough foundations of which, showing at the sides, are said to be Roman -work. Leaving the brook at this point, a seductive track will -presently emerge in a grove fitly named "The Cathedral". The exceeding -loftiness of the beech trees, their noble grouping, and the clear -space beneath, have the solemn impressiveness of the aisle of some -great sanctuary. - - [Illustration: "THE CATHEDRAL"] - -Even to name all the woods that stand round about Lyndhurst, reaching -to Burley and Hinchelsey on the one side, to Denny and Ladycross on -the other, and northward to Malwood, would exceed the measure of this -little book; to describe one-half the beauty would outrun all bounds. -For you cannot say that when you have seen one wood you have seen all; -each has its own special character, its own individual claim on our -affections. Were you dropped out of the skies into the midst of one, -you could never confuse Mark Ash with Burley Old Wood, Setthorns with -Queen's Bower, nor any one of them with Wood Fidley. This last had -always been to me a kind of mythical land--the place where they brewed -the rain--for in these parts when a cold torrent lashes our eastern -windows, we remark, as we throw a fresh peat on the fire, "It is a -Wood Fidley rain; it will last all to-day and all to-morrow". So one -day I resolved to go and find it. Being the arid summer of 1911, I -need hardly say they were not brewing any that day. Golden sunshine -bathed the slopes, planted with Scotch fir, all irregular in chance -groups or singly, mingled with silver birch, and it made a harmony in -gold and silver and bronze, for the bracken was turning already. - -It seems a pity that most of those who come from afar should see the -New Forest under its least gracious aspect. Unluckily the holiday time -is late summer, just when the full, heavy leafage takes on its most -monotonous green, dim and jaded after a dry season, gloomy in a wet -one; when flowers are few and birds are silent. In October the early -frosts will light up the woods with a rich medley of hues, ending in -the exquisite tracery of bare boughs. November has its special beauty -when the blue mists lurk in the depth of woodland ways, when the wet -bracken glows like a peat fire, and toadstools of weird and wondrous -colours adorn the damp wayside. And lovely are the rare days when the -moor lies sheeted with snow, and every spray is set with diamonds. -Presently in February comes a moment when a purple flush, like the -bloom on a ripe plum, steals over the massed woodland, though yet no -green leaf shows, and we know that life begins to stir. On the -sheltered banks snowdrops are piercing the dark mould, and soon the -early primroses peep out under last year's dead leaves, and daffodils -toss their golden heads in the pasture. So the unfolding goes on till -the "brief twenty days" of Faber's poem, when every tree is clad in -its own fresh raiment, no two alike, and scattered snow of bird cherry -or sloe and rosy flush of crab-apple lights up the dark thickets. Now -the primroses are poured out with a lavish hand, and the green glades -are turned into rivers of blue where the tall wild hyacinths stand -massed together in a sheet of amethyst and sapphire mingled; for their -changeful hue has the blue of mountains rather than of sky. But the -glory of spring flowers belongs to the coppices about Brockenhurst and -Beaulieu; Lyndhurst's proud woods have none. - - - - - THE HIGHROADS AND THE PLAYGROUNDS - - -To learn the Forest in its true inwardness we have left the king's -highway, we have crossed wide moors and marshy bottoms, we have -plunged through the greenwood and followed brooks by tangled, muddy -tracks. Now for a little we must accompany the ordinary tourist as -from his motor or his seat of vantage on a Bournemouth brake he -surveys the fringe of the Forest at his ease. - -Fine roads cross it in almost every direction, and about them cluster -the well-known spots which are the usual goal of the visitor, and may -be called the playgrounds. One of the principal routes, which -arrogates the title of the Forest Road, leads transversely by some of -the most notable points, from Southampton to Bournemouth. Entering the -Forest at Colbury near Eling, it crosses the line at Lyndhurst Road -railway station, and thousands who think they know the Forest have -only dipped into it at this point. For here lies the favourite ground -for school treats. Quite close to the station is a wide grassy lawn -with great beech trees and shady oaks, where I can remember seeing -the wild pigs nosing about for acorns and beechmast. Now through July -and August the lawns are dotted with childish cricketers, and crowds -of little folk trot about with mugs slung round their necks. The -strong oak branches lend themselves to swings, and the thickets -farther down suggest "I spy!" One does not grudge it them; for what a -comfort it must be for the teachers to collect and count their little -flock so close to the station without risk of losing some adventurous -spirit in the enticement of long Forest rides! - -Early in December the purlieus of the station are piled with -scarlet-berried holly in stacks, awaiting transport to London. This is -one of the recognized Forest industries. Licences to cut are issued to -certain gipsies and foresters, happily under limitations; they are not -permitted to cut at discretion, or the holms would soon be cleared for -the insatiable London market. - - [Illustration: IN MALLARD WOOD] - -At Lyndhurst the road divides, the main portion going by Bank, high -raised above the road, looking down through the shade of spreading -oaks, not too thickly planted. Having paid his duty to the Knightwood -oak, the tourist will probably visit the Ornamental Drive, unless he -prefer to go through Mark Ash and Bolderwood to the more northerly -road to Ringwood. The Bournemouth road, passing between the -beautiful beeches of Vinny Ridge and Burley Old Wood, crosses -Longslade Bottom by Markway Bridge over the Black Water and climbs the -hill to Wilverley Post, whence descending by Holmsley and Hinton, at -the "Cat and Fiddle", it issues from the Forest. - -The other branch goes due south to Lymington, and from the top of Clay -Hill becomes exceedingly beautiful, wide lawns on each side separating -it from the greenwood, dense on the east and sufficiently sparse on -the west to let the setting sun filter through. Dim with motor dust -the summer through, it is lovely in May in its fresh green, the great -hawthorns by the wayside clad like brides. At Holland Wood and Balmer -Lawn more school feasts and choir outings dot the ground. The wide -shady spaces afford room for games, and are near enough to -Brockenhurst station to be easy of access. - -The time to see Balmer Lawn at its fairest is on a winter morning when -the foxhounds meet at Brockenhurst Bridge. On the slope above the -river the men in pink on their fine mounts, not a few women, some -riding in the new fashion in topboots, breeches, and frockcoats, the -hounds crowding round the whip with their tails carried like -scimitars, all grouped against a background of frosted trees and -pale-blue sky, make up an oldfashioned hunting picture. - -Straight on goes the road by the level crossing, avoiding Brockenhurst -village, up Tilebarn hill, coming out on Setley Plain. Here on the -height, where the Burley Road branches off, is an interesting spot -long called Cobbler's Corner. In old days it was Hobler's Corner, for -here dwelt the Hobler, the man whose duty it was to scan the distant -line of the Isle of Wight for the flare of the Beacon, and, catching -sight of it, to mount and ride posthaste to Burley Beacon, whence the -news--whether of approach of Armada or of a French invasion--should be -flashed to Bramshaw, thence to the Old Telegraph above Winchester, and -so to London. - -From Battramsley Cross the road descends by shady trees, and at the -bottom of Passford Hill, where the brook forms the Forest boundary, -there is an avenue of oaks and beeches, raised on a bank, worthy to -rank with the "Gate of the Forest" at the northern border on the -Salisbury Road. - -The next important road leads from Romsey to Ringwood, entering the -Forest at Cadnam. A little to the south Minstead straggles along a -by-road in as yet unspoilt picturesqueness, though the inn has been -rebuilt to meet the needs of the many visitors to the neighbouring -Rufus' Stone. It still displays its ancient sign of the "Trusty -Servant", copied from the wall of the kitchen at Winchester College. - -The delightful little church is the most perfect survival of those in -which our forefathers worshipped from the eighteenth century down to -the time of the Oxford Movement. It would be nothing short of -deplorable were the hand of the restorer to be laid upon it. It -abounds in galleries, one double-tiered, and has a regular -three-decker, with the clerk's seat at the bottom. Its prime glory, -however, is the squire's pew, with a fireplace and easy chairs, railed -round with curtains, and possessing a separate entrance, so that these -high persons can go to church without mixing with the common herd. -Long may it be preserved in its integrity that we may not quite forget -one phase of our religious history. - -Returning to the main road, we find the Compton Arms at Stony Cross, -where the coaches stop and set down their trippers, who descend the -steep hill afoot to the spot where Rufus fell. Here again the -scientific historian has been busy; but far be it from me to throw any -doubt upon the tale. Standing beside the stone in the hideous iron -casing rendered necessary by the pocket knives of its admirers, one -cannot but feel some indignation against those who would explain it -all away. They are as bad as the visitors who would have whittled the -stone to nothing--and with less excuse. Walter Tyrell has already been -whitewashed; soon the share of Rufus himself will be eliminated, and -we shall be told there was no corpse to be carried bleeding to -Winchester on the charcoal burner's cart. For my own part, whether it -were plot of churchmen, private vengeance, or the deed of Saxon churls -dispossessed of their rights, I doubt not that Wat Tyrell's hand sped -the fatal shaft, whether by design or misadventure, while the king -stood shading his eyes from the westering sun. - -Then, seeing what he had done, the slayer mounted and, urging his -breathless horse up that steep hill, rode for Ringwood for all he was -worth. Else why did he terrorize the blacksmith at the ford, since -known as Tyrell's, and make him shoe his horse backward to confuse the -traces of his flight, and then kill the man? Dead men tell no tales, -but there must have been tales to be told. And if he did none of these -things, why does that forge pay a yearly fine to the Crown to this day -for compounding a felony? A matter which is recorded in Wise's -_History_. - -All the summer through the cheap tripper in hordes is deposited beside -the historic stone. He gazes at it, and finding he can neither carve -his name nor chip off a corner, he turns away, buys a postcard view in -colours, and seeks more congenial amusement in the cocoanut shies hard -by. - - [Illustration: MINSTEAD CHURCH] - -Leaving Stony Cross, the road runs by Bushy Bratley along the lofty -ridge that forms the backbone of the Forest to Picked Post and down -to the Avon valley. The northernmost road follows the Wiltshire -border, running from Bramshaw to Fordingbridge, lonesome exceedingly -and bleak, but commanding a magnificent outlook to Beacon Hill and -Salisbury spire on the one hand, and over the slopes of Ashley Walk on -the other. The spot where the Salisbury road enters the Forest at -Nomansland is marked by an archway of fine old oaks known as "the Gate -of the Forest". - -Of all the many crossroads, with all their separate charms, which -connect these main arteries with each other, I have no space to tell. -Those who have time to linger will find they must make many a day's -journey to learn them all. We must leave them now and dive once more -into wood and moorland. - - - - - BRAMSHAW, THE HILL COUNTRY - - -The wildest and loneliest, if not the most beautiful part of the -Forest is to be found in the north-west, where a hilly tract lies -between the road from Cadnam to Picked Post and that from Nomansland -to Fordingbridge, and stretches westward from Bramshaw to the rampart -of high down which parts the Forest from the Avon valley. Here there -are no crossroads to break it up; only bridle-paths or rough cart -tracks, often impassable in winter by reason of bogs, connect the -lonely Forest lodges with each other. - -And what variety is here! From dense woods, hushed in noonday -stillness, the wayfarer emerges on some unexpected crest, looking -clear away over the Wiltshire Downs. By some sudden slope from a long, -bleak, drear ridge he comes upon a still, dark pool with swans sailing -on it. A little lonely hamlet has sprung up at the edge of the pond, -and a modern gunpowder factory, put here to be well out of the way of -the public--as indeed it is. - -Transversely run two valleys with their streams, Latchmore Brook to -make its way between the downs under Gorley Hill, and Docken Water, -widening as it flows through the marshy bottom, till it joins the Avon -at Moyles Court. Coming down the broken upland through Broomy by -winding ways and chalky ledges, at dusk one may see a little troop of -deer stooping their branchy heads to drink at the brook by Holly -Hatch, here called Broomy Water. Here one may well fancy the colt-pixy -the old tales tell of, light-stepping with waving mane and tail, "in -the likeness of a filly foal", luring the horses into the bog that -spreads from the stream up to the slopes of Ibsley Common. - -From Brook, lying in a wooded hollow on the Forest border, the road -goes steeply up to Bramshaw, an unspoilt village, not grouped about -its church as an orderly village should be, but squandered all along a -mile or more of road between that and the post office. The little -sanctuary stands, as all the Forest churches do, raised upon a mound, -and is approached by a flight of steps so long and steep as to make -the tired wayfarer think of the ascent to some shrine in a Catholic -country, and wonder how much indulgence is due to him for his climb. -The quaint building has lost much of the charm that makes Minstead so -gracious. It has been to some extent brought up to date, and further -penance is imposed on the worshipper by new open sittings, hideous to -the eye, cruel to the back. Once, before a readjustment of boundaries, -it had the fascinating peculiarity of its nave being in Wiltshire and -its chancel in Hampshire. - -The church passed, the road leads on through the loveliest of -beechwoods on Bramble Hill. He would be a strange traveller who would -not forsake the dusty highway and plunge into the cool tangled glades -till all sense of direction is lost. For the special and peculiar -beauty of this, unlike most Forest enclosures, is that there are no -straight rides cutting it transversely, but the winding alleys seem of -Nature's own planting, and these make it easy to stray, one fair group -of noble trees after another beckoning along the wide green ways into -the heart of the wood. One may fancy one is following the direction of -the road, but it is far out of sight in a few minutes. Never mind! -Every path must lead somewhither, and, sticking faithfully to one, we -presently emerge upon a high, wide plateau, whence the eye may travel -to Salisbury spire on the one hand and to the downs above Winchester -on the other, though its low-lying cathedral is lost in their folds. -From here one can see the Beacon on Dean Hill and the Old Telegraph on -Longwood Warren, whence Bramshaw Telegraph close by would take its -signal and hand it on to Burley Beacon. - - [Illustration: BY BROOMY WATER] - -On the edge of the level stands a little inn, and nearer the wood -cocoanut shies and Aunt Sallies are set up for the delectation of the -Salisbury and Southampton trippers. But we are soon away from such -disturbing elements. A desperate clamber up the stoniest of hills -leads to the ridge that divides the two counties. It is curious to -observe that here the moorland seems to be laid on quite different -lines to those in the south part of the Forest, partaking more of the -nature of the Wiltshire Downs. This road must be desolate and drear -enough in winter, but it commands even finer views than the vaunted -ones at Picked Post. Following it over Deadman's Hill, the sweeps of -Ashley Walk slope steeply down to Amberwood and Island Thorns. - -Southward of these lies Sloden, which possesses special points of -interest. Along its fence, beds of nettles interrupt the bracken, and -where these occur a little grubbing may unearth some shards of Roman -pottery. This is said by experts to denote a regular factory of -earthenware, since the bits are too numerous and too invariably broken -to be the ordinary debris of a household, but must be the waste -product of the potter's wheel. Once, also, there existed here a grove -of noble yews, and of these some yet remain. One remarkable ring of -eleven together hint at what they were in their glory, and just -outside the enclosure a striking semicircle of half a dozen, standing -round some oaks, are better seen in the open. Density and solitude are -the chief characteristics of Sloden Wood. Here in its depth the ponies -can find a refuge from the storm, a shadow from the heat, more -impervious than many a stable. Here, too, the hind may bring forth her -young and discover the thick bushes. For this is the special haunt of -the fallow deer, and, resting quiet in the shade, one may chance to -see a little company of the graceful, stately creatures pass slowly, -with dainty footsteps, across a glade at no great distance--provided, -that is, one has taken up a position to leeward, for if the breeze -bore a taint of human breath, the shy, wild things would be gone like -a flash. Less stately and less fierce than the red deer, they are -hardly less beautiful in their dun coats, palely spotted, and the -little fawns are exquisite. Legally the stag no longer exists, but -some may yet be found in these wilder coverts, either they have -lingered on or have wandered down from Cranbourne Chace, and they -afford a finer day's sport. - -People talk rather loosely of the "wild" creatures of the Forest, -including in the phrase the ponies and the pigs; but in truth nothing -larger than a fox or a badger is really wild in the sense that lions -and tigers in the jungle are--that is, masterless. The deer are the -property of the Crown, and as to the rough, shaggy, hammer-headed -ponies, though they roam at large day in, day out, winter and summer, -and find their own subsistence, their notched tails mark them as -belonging to some forester with grazing rights. At one time stallions -were turned loose in the Forest to improve the breed, but these were -Crown property, and now neither they nor bulls are allowed at large, -and boar have ceased to exist. The pigs certainly all belong to the -cottagers, and are now no longer seen in big flocks at pannage, that -is from 22 September till 25 November. There is a charming account in -one of Mr. Gilpin's volumes of the swineherd who used to take charge -of all the pigs of a large district during this season, giving them -warm food and shelter at night, so that they would collect from their -wide wanderings at the sound of his pipe. The breed of pigs which was -indigenous to the Forest has now died out--probably the make did not -lend itself to good hams. Gilpin thus describes them: "Besides these -(the domestic pigs) there are others in the more desolate parts of the -Forest, bred wild and left to themselves, descendants of the wild boar -imported by Charles I from Germany (probably at the suggestion of his -nephew, the Elector Palatine). They had broad shoulders, high crest, -bristly mane, the hinder parts light, and they were fiercer than the -common breed." Writing some fifty years later, Wise alludes to their -shaggy coats, brindled and rust colour, and I myself can remember them -as he describes them. - -By Fritham and Sloden are some of the most noteworthy of those -mysterious barrows, locally called butts, which have exercised the -curiosity of antiquaries. Others are found across the valley, on the -heights by Bushy Bratley, and there are several on Setley Plain. Wise -in his _History_ gives a very full and interesting account of the -opening of some of these tumuli both by himself and by Warner, who -wrote on _The South-western Parts of Hampshire_. Invariably there was -found burnt earth and charcoal, together with calcined human remains, -in some cases contained in urns of "rude forms and large size", which -led him to the conclusion that they are the funeral pyres of the -ancient Britons, probably long anterior to the Roman Invasion. The -hints they give of life in the Forest in far-past days are indeed -scanty, but their presence, standing age-long on remote uplands, -suggests strange visions of the long succession of races that have -dwelt here. - - - - - BURLEY, THE WESTERN BORDER - - -The western border of the New Forest is a great contrast to the -eastern. Towards Southampton Water the boundary is an arbitrary -one--the farms and woodlands on the one hand are much the same as on -the other--but on the west a natural rampart divides the wild down -country from the Avon valley, along which an elm-shaded road connects -a chain of pretty villages. From the height of Godshill and Windmill -Hill on the north the ridge runs southward by Hydes Common through the -two Gorleys, by Ibsley, sloping away to Latchmoor Bottom, till it -reaches Mockbeggar, an oddly named hamlet nestling in the downs. On -the one side are rugged uplands, on the other smiling villages, elm -trees, and orchards of red apples--for this is a fine cider country. - -At Moyles Court the downs break off to let Docken Water through to -meet the Avon. It is a fine old house, interesting as having been the -home of Lady Alice Lisle, the innocent victim of her charity to -Monmouth's defeated soldiers, though she, unlike Mrs. Knapton of -Lymington, was in no way implicated in the rebellion. Hard by stands -an oak which should have been the prime glory of the Forest; for it is -finer than any within its present precincts. - -After the ford the hills rise again steeply to Picked Post, a high -point which looks across the intervening forest, over wood beyond -wood, to Bramshaw Telegraph, a hundred feet higher still. From here by -Bushy Bratley extends a lofty plateau right away to Stony Cross, over -which roam multitudes of Forest ponies, and on a hot noonday it is a -curious sight to see a drove of them gathered together on an open -spot, locally called a "shade"--apparently from the absence of -anything of the sort--standing close in a circle, heads inward, waving -tails outward, to defend them from the Forest fly. The cows do the -same thing, but they keep to themselves. - -A little to the south Burley lies in a dip between the hills, -sheltered yet high. Its fine position has been the destruction of its -charm, for it has attracted too many residents, who have cut up the -surrounding oak groves with up-to-date "artistic" houses, and brought -the usual train of shops, motor garages, and civilization generally to -mar the village street. Unfortunately some years ago the owner of -Burley Manor found himself obliged to part with much of the land, -which was developed for building, with disastrous effect, especially -at Burley Lawn, which might really pass for a suburb of Clapham -Common. The church does nothing to redeem it. It is a mean little -structure, belonging to the worst period of ecclesiastical -architecture, when three lancet windows at the east end were -considered the acme of good taste. - - [Illustration: BURLEY MOOR] - -An interesting feature is the annual pony fair. There is one also at -Swan Green, by Lyndhurst, and another at Brockenhurst, but that at -Burley is the best, affording more space. The one at Brockenhurst, -where the ponies are penned into a dirty yard by the station, has -little charm for a looker on. At Burley one can see their paces tried -over the open lawn, and great and smart is the concourse of horsemen, -carriages, and motors. A still more interesting business, but one -not so easily seen, is the gathering them in from the Forest. Men on -clever, well-trained ponies go out, armed with long stock whips, -driving the startled creatures together, often into bogs to secure -them. - -Westward and southward towards Holmsley the moor is broken into -heights and hollows, giving a magnificently varied outline, and -diversified with wooded enclosures on the lower slopes. Here the -fallow deer may often be met with, though the red hardly come so far -south. Wilverley Post, at the crossroad, is a favourite spot for -deerhound meets as well as foxhound, and the coverts to the north-west -are seldom drawn in vain. Eastward slopes of broken ground, lightly -wooded and dotted with clumps of thorn, tangled in honeysuckle and -bramble, lead down to the chain of woods towards Lyndhurst. One of the -most beautiful of these is Burley Old Wood. This still keeps many of -its fine old oaks, besides magnificent beeches, and there is more -variety than in most of the enclosures, for besides these there are -ash, chestnut, and hornbeam, mingled with the dainty elegance of the -silver birch; some yews, too, as large and old as any at Sloden. So -fine is the grouping, that even on a grey day of drizzling rain, with -none of the dappling sun and shadow that lend such a charm to woodland -ways, it lost nothing of its magic. To pass through the gate into -Burley New Enclosure is like a sudden step from a mediĉval city into a -modern industrial suburb. The trees are in straight, ruled lines, too -thick-set to admit of fair growth, and gladly we extricate ourselves -and, returning by the raised causeway that crosses the stretch of bog -at Longslade Bottom by Markway Bridge, we regain the highroad at -Wilverley Post. - -Opposite Wilverley stands the blasted tree known as the Naked Man, -holding up its bleached, appealing arms to heaven, now welcomed as a -signpost rather than shunned as a bogy. A little beyond is Setthorns, -with a small, lonely keeper's lodge at the edge of it. This wood must -have been very lovely before the intrusion of the railway that now -cuts across it, and indeed still has great charm. In Mr. Gilpin's day -it had been recently cleared of its fine oaks, and bitter are his -lamentations over their disappearance and that of the grove of yews -that flourished below. But he wrote more than a century ago, and since -then the wood has been replanted--happily before the new fashion of -straight rows of young trees, like a cabbage garden, had come in. One -of the most entrancing of bridle-paths enters the road just below the -railway bridge and, passing down by a steep descent, emerges on the -Avon Water--not to be confounded with the river Avon--which here -broadens into a pool. The stream passes under Meadend Bridge, which -forms the Forest boundary at this point, and flows on to join the sea -at Keyhaven. - -Sway, once the most picturesque of villages, perched on its high -common, is now nearly overwhelmed with red brick and vulgarity, -probably consequent on its possession of a railway station. It is only -partly within the Forest bounds. From here a road running by a ridge -of down leads to Shirley Holms, one of those primeval patches of oak -and holly, clear of undergrowth, that are specially beloved of the -gipsies for close overhead shelter and clear space beneath for tent -and fire. This road comes out on the main highway at Battramsley -Cross; but if the objective be Brockenhurst, a better way is to turn -at Marlpit Oak and go down by Latchmoor (or -mere), the pool of -corpses. This ill-omened name belongs to some great battle of long -ago, but a dark tradition of last century still hangs about the spot. - -By Marlpit Oak, a lofty landmark on the bare heath, beloved of -deer-stealers in the old poaching days, with a dense thicket round -about its knees, good to hide in, there lurked one night three men of -the outlaw type who used to haunt the Forest. They were lying in wait -for a traveller known to be returning to his home with a large sum of -money. Though they were three to one, he showed fight; so they -murdered him and dragged his body down to Latchmoor, where they threw -it into the pool. Across the moor at Setley stood a little inn of evil -repute, called the "Three Feathers" or the "Three Pigeons", or some -such name. Here they called for drinks, threw their money about -freely, and bragged in their cups; so they were taken and hanged at -Marlpit Oak. The bodies, hanging in chains, have mouldered into dust, -the gallows tree no longer adorns the spot where now the cheery -foxhounds meet on many a winter morning; but it was some time before -the inn recovered from its evil savour. People would call it the -"Three Murderers"; so at last it had to be pulled down, rebuilt, and -rechristened as the "Oddfellows Arms", under which title it has become -a respectable wayside hostelry. - -And now we find ourselves again at Setley by Brockenhurst, our brief -survey done--a few characteristic spots gleaned, yet more, I fear, -left out than included. We may be thankful for so much old-world -beauty still spared, yet are we not without a haunting sense of -menace. Though the Forest has been rescued from the utilitarian -destruction that once threatened it, it has more insidious foes. All -Forest lovers are dismayed at the advance of the Scotch fir, which -encroaches ever more and more, and bids fair to swamp the whole -woodland. There are only two valid reasons for planting a tree of such -small value. One is the need for shelter for wood better than itself -on the windy uplands; but then the firs should be weeded out as the -timber grows strong enough to hold its own. Another thing is that, -being a thirsty soul, it will quickly reclaim marshy land. But this in -itself would be matter of regret to the lovers of wild nature, for the -bogs have their special bird and plant life. It is hard to see why so -much space should be sacrificed to stiff, straight rows of firs so -densely planted that none can reach perfection or attain their one -beauty of broad, spreading heads. Perhaps small profits with quick -returns appeal to a generation that plants for itself. We no longer -plant timber for posterity, as did our forefathers. - -The new fashion of excessive game-preserving, which is practised on -the manors though not in the Forest itself, is answerable for the -destruction of much wild life. The keepers wage war on jay and magpie, -owl and hawk, and even the little harmless squirrel has been so -diminished in the last year or two, that you may take many a long -ramble through the woods and never once hear his chatter or watch his -nimble spring from tree to tree. A powerful plea for a sanctuary comes -from the pen of E. W., the writer of a series of delightful articles -on "Out of Doors," in the _Hampshire Chronicle_. After deploring the -utter extinction of many bird species and increasing rarity of others, -she goes on: - - "What we want is a sanctuary, and a sanctuary of great extent - near the South Coast; the New Forest is ready to our hand and - requires no making--wood and water, sea and moor, all are there. - We also need, when we have got our ideal sanctuary, an army of - keepers who shall be as anxious to keep alive, as the keepers of - the present time are anxious to kill." - -But the worst enemy of the Forest is its admirer. He comes, falls in -love with it, craves a house within its borders, praises it to his -friends, and invites them down. So the fashion comes, and the fashion -creates a demand. Land rises to a fancy value, and when times are so -hard for the landowners, what can they do but relinquish their fairest -sites to the speculative builder? If this goes on, our descendants may -wonder why we cared so much for an endless firwood, diversified with -"artistic" villas--or perhaps they will like it. In the country that -lies East of the Sun and West of the Moon they would doubtless pass a -law that all manors within the Forest, coming into the market, should -be resumed by the Crown and enclosed as wood or waste for ever. - - - - - PRINTED IN GREAT BRITAIN - _At the Villafield Press, Glasgow, Scotland_ - - - - - Transcriber's Note: - -Words in italics are enclosed by underscores, _thus_. - -Inconsistent punctuation at the end of quotations was not changed. - -Changes made from the original: Added a description to the -illustration on the title page, and capitalized 'purlieu': ... 'from -Cadnam through Dibden Purlieu' ... - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The New Forest, by Elizabeth Godfrey - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE NEW FOREST *** - -***** This file should be named 44909-8.txt or 44909-8.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/4/9/0/44909/ - -Produced by Carol Brown, sp1nd and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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