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diff --git a/44648-0.txt b/44648-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..730f2e6 --- /dev/null +++ b/44648-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,1446 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 44648 *** + +[Illustration: Map of + +BRADDOCK'S MILITARY ROAD + +FROM + +CUMBERLAND, MD. TO BRADDOCK, PA. + +1755. + +_Compiled by John Kennedy Lacock 1912._] + + + + +BRADDOCK ROAD[1] + +By JOHN KENNEDY LACOCK + + +On September 24, 1754, Major-General Edward Braddock was appointed by +the Duke of Cumberland, captain-general of the British army, to the +command of the British troops to be sent to Virginia, with the rank of +generalissimo of all his Britannic Majesty's forces on the American +continent. Before the expedition could start, however, many weeks had to +be spent in extensive preparations, a delay which became so irksome to +Braddock that he determined to wait no longer on the tardy movement of +the transports. Accordingly, on December 21, 1754, accompanied by +Captain Robert Orme, one of his aides, and William Shirley, his military +secretary, he set sail for Virginia with Commodore Augustus Keppel, and +on February 20, 1755, anchored in Hampton Roads. It was not till January +14, 1755, that the rest of the ships were actually under sail, and not +till about March 15 that the entire fleet arrived at Alexandria, +Virginia, where the troops were disembarked and temporarily +quartered.[2] + +[Illustration: ROBERT ORME + +AID-DE-CAMP] + +Meanwhile General Braddock had been busy making the necessary +preparations for the expedition against Fort Duquesne. As a matter of +first importance, he had written to the governors of the several +provinces asking them to meet him in council at Alexandria; and to the +five who responded to his invitation on April 14 he submitted various +proposals, to which they in turn made formal answer.[3] + +Already, however, two days prior to the conference with the governors, +the advance column of the army, after much delay caused by the lack of +horses and wagons, had set out from Alexandria. The first objective +point was Wills Creek,[4] to which the two regiments of the army +proceeded by different routes, Sir Peter Halket's through Virginia via +Rock Creek and Winchester, Colonel Thomas Dunbar's through Maryland via +Fredericktown and thence across the Conogogee and into a road five miles +north of Winchester. From this point both divisions seem to have marched +over the same road to Fort Cumberland.[5] Still further delays were +occasioned by the want of wagons and horses for transportation, as well +as by the lack of provisions; but by the 19th of May practically all the +forces were encamped at the fort, a total of some 2100 men. It had thus +taken twenty-seven days to march from Alexandria to Fort Cumberland, a +distance of 180 miles; and, one may remark in passing, all the delays up +to this point had been occasioned by circumstances over which Braddock +had practically no control. He did not reach Fort Cumberland himself +till May 10.[6] Then he lost no time in giving his attention to the +three matters which were of greatest significance to the success of his +expedition,--(1) the Indian question, (2) the arrangements about wagons +and provisions, (3) the construction of a road through Pennsylvania to +serve as a means of connection with the base of supplies. + +Of Braddock's relations with the Indians there are many conflicting +stories; but a careful examination of the most trustworthy accounts will +convince an impartial investigator that there is no basis in fact for +the charge, often made, that his conduct toward them was impolitic and +unjust. On the contrary, it is difficult to find a single fair criticism +that can be made against him on this score. However one may account for +the circumstance that but eight of them accompanied the expedition, it +seems to be practically certain that this small number was not due to +the fact that the Indians had not received every reasonable +consideration from the English general. + +In providing the horses, wagons, and supplies necessary for the +undertaking, Braddock was ably assisted by Benjamin Franklin, whose +extraordinary efforts, tact, and courage called forth his warm +appreciation. "I desired Mr. B. Franklin, postmaster of Pennsylvania, +who has great credit in that province," he wrote on June 5, "to hire me +one hundred and fifty wagons and the number of horses necessary, which +he did with so much goodness and readiness that it is almost the first +instance of integrity, address, and ability that I have seen in all +these provinces."[7] + +In the solution of his third problem, that of constructing a road +through Pennsylvania in order to have an adequate avenue for securing +supplies, Braddock was less successful. He quickly recognized the +importance of having the road cut west of the Susquehanna in order to +intersect with the route of the army at a place called indifferently +Turkey Foot, Crow Foot, or the three forks of the Youghiogheny (at what +is now Confluence[8]); and he had the satisfaction of seeing the work of +building this road prosecuted with great diligence by Governor Morris of +Pennsylvania. Unfortunately for Braddock, however, it proved to be +impossible to complete the road in time for it to be of any service to +him in the expedition.[9] + +From Fort Cumberland westward Braddock had to make a road for his +troops across mountains divided by ravines and torrents, over a rugged, +desolate, unknown, and uninhabited country. The history of the +construction of this road and a description of its course it is the +purpose of this paper to set forth; for the growing interest with which +the routes of celebrated expeditions are coming to be regarded, and the +confusion that attends the tracing of such routes after a lapse of +years, make it altogether fitting that the road by which the unfortunate +Braddock marched to his disastrous field should be surveyed, mapped, and +suitably marked while it is yet possible to trace its course with +reasonable definiteness. + +In any discussion of this subject three things should be borne clearly +in mind: (1) the irregular topography and mountainous nature of the +country through which the road had to be built, for there were as many +as six ranges of the Alleghanies to be crossed, besides other mountain +elevations and passes that presented as great and serious difficulties; +(2) the wooded character of the country; (3) the fact that the road had +to be constructed by the soldiers of the army. It is noteworthy that the +road which Braddock made followed very closely the course of the +so-called Nemacolin Indian trail,[10] and that it was used as a pioneer +road as far west as Jumonville until late in the first quarter of the +nineteenth century. + +On May 30 a detachment of six hundred men commanded by Major Russell +Chapman set out to clear a road twelve feet wide from Fort Cumberland to +Little Meadows, twenty miles away; but in spite of some work previously +done on Wills Mountain, just west of the fort, they had so great +difficulty in passing the elevation that on the first day they got but +two miles from the starting-place. In the process, moreover, three of +their wagons were entirely destroyed and many more shattered.[11] + +Of the road from old Fort Cumberland to the foot of Wills Mountain no +trace can be found today, but it seems probable that its course lay +along what is now Green Street in Cumberland. There is, however, just as +good and as direct a route from the camp by way of Sulphur Spring +Hollow, past the present Rose Hill cemetery, with an easy, ascending +grade to the ridge of the spur of Wills Mountain, and so on to a point +at or near the intersection of the Sulphur Spring, Cresaptown, and +Cumberland roads.[12] Something might be said in support of this route. +Nevertheless, the former was the direct way to reach the fording at +Wills Creek, the old trading-post at this point; and it was the way best +known to the Indians. + +At the foot of the mountain the road proceeds westerly, parallel to the +Cumberland Road but ninety feet north of it, to a point opposite the old +Steel House.[13] At this spot the first depression or scar of the +Braddock Road can be seen today. + +A short distance farther on, the road enters the wooded part of Wills +Mountain. At a distance of about four hundred feet westward it veers +away to the north from the old Cumberland Road, following to the top of +the mountain a succession of absolutely straight lines, no one of which +varies more than five degrees from the preceding line. Thence the course +bears to the south and joins the Cumberland Road opposite the old +Steiner House (now owned by Frederick Lang) in Sandy Gap,[14] about a +mile and a half from the junction with the Cresaptown road. To this +point the route may be traced with very little difficulty. From Sandy +Gap it follows the present course of the old Cumberland Road for about +seven-tenths of a mile,[15] crossing the George's Creek and Cumberland +Railroad and the Eckhart branch of the Cumberland and Pennsylvania +Railroad, to the house now occupied by Edward Kaylor, 380 feet from the +latter railroad crossing. Here the line leaves the old Cumberland Road +and runs due west four-tenths of a mile, passing under the front or +southwest corner of the new house recently built by William Hendrickson, +then fording Braddock Run in Alleghany Grove south of Lake View Cottage, +thence running through Alleghany Grove to the Vocke road 440 feet south +of its intersection with the National turnpike and 700 feet north of the +now abandoned part of the old Cumberland Road, and keeping on still in +the same straight line 1100 feet westward to the turnpike. + +So great was the difficulty experienced by the advance party in passing +this mountain that General Braddock himself reconnoitered it, and had +determined to put 300 more men at work upon it when he was informed by +Mr. Spendelow, lieutenant of the seamen,[16] that he had discovered a +pass by way of the Narrows through a valley which led round the foot of +the mountain.[17] Thereupon Braddock ordered a survey of this route to +be made, with the result that a good road was built in less than three +days, over which all troops and supplies for Fort Cumberland were +subsequently transported.[18] + +Every endeavor of the writer and his party to locate this new road +through the Narrows and round Wills Mountain proved fruitless. Of +approaches from Fort Cumberland to the Narrows over which an army with +baggage trains could pass, four, and only four, were possible.[19] (1) +One could cross Wills Creek at the ford or bridge near its mouth;[20] +and then go up the left or eastern bank of the stream;[21] (2) one could +pass down the decline back of the present Alleghany Academy to the +creek, and then follow the shore on either side, fording at the most +convenient point; (3) one could go down the sloping ground northward +from the fort, reaching the creek about where the cement mill now +stands, and then go up the creek as in the second route;[22] (4) one +could follow Fayette street and Sulphur Spring valley to the cemetery, +and thence turning abruptly to the right go down a little valley to the +Narrows, where a crossing of the creek would be immediately necessary. A +high bluff, or "stratum," running down to the very water's edge of the +creek on the right bank of the stream at the eastern entrance to this +gap makes it almost unquestionable that the beginning of the pathway +through the Narrows was on the left, or eastern, bank of Wills +Creek.[23] The question is, did this pathway follow the left bank of the +stream through the entire length of the gap, recrossing the creek near +the month of Braddock Run; or did it recross it in the Narrows near the +present location of the bridge over Wills Creek on the National +turnpike, and thence follow the course of the turnpike to the western +terminus of the Narrows? Judged by present conditions, the latter view +seems the more probable; but it is impossible to do more than make a +shrewd guess, for the construction of three separate railroads through +this narrow valley has completely altered the banks of the creek and +obliterated all traces of the road. In favor of the former contention it +should be said that, within the memory of some of the older and more +trustworthy citizens of Cumberland, there has been opportunity for the +easy construction of a road on the left, or eastern, bank of Wills +Creek.[24] Furthermore, at the entrance of the Narrows from the western +end the stratum of hard white sandstone formerly extended to the waters +of the creek. + +Although the ground between these two obstructions to the Narrows on +its right bank might have afforded a good roadbed, yet undoubtedly they +proved to be obstacles that Braddock's engineers, with the appliances +which they had at hand, could not easily surmount. It is well known to +the older residents of Cumberland that as late as 1873 the mass of +boulders at the eastern end of the gap, lying along the right bank of +the stream, were in their primitive condition when a wagon road was +constructed by George Henderson, Jr., to join the Cumberland road on +that side of Wills Creek. On the contrary, the left bank presented no +such difficulties in the way of road-building; and a careful examination +of the ground through the entire length of the gap cannot fail to +convince one that in Braddock's day there was opportunity for the easy +construction of a road on that side. + +After leaving the gap the road turned into the valley of Braddock Run; +but the difficulty of finding present traces of it at this point seems +almost insuperable on account of the character of the valley itself. The +methods employed by Braddock's engineers in laying out the road indicate +that its course was probably that afterwards followed by the National +turnpike to a point near the northwest corner of the Alleghany Grove +Camp Ground,[25] just beyond which and south of the turnpike is a +distinct hollow or trench. The neighborhood of Alleghany Grove was +unquestionably the place of the first encampment, Spendelow Camp.[26] + +From the point of intersection with the National turnpike, one-fourth +mile west of Alleghany Grove, the Braddock Road keeps north of the +turnpike on somewhat higher ground to escape swampy land; thence, in +order to avoid the point of a hill (or perhaps it would be more accurate +to say a spur of Piney Mountain), it crosses the turnpike to the +southward, and after running parallel to it for about 150 yards +recrosses it to the northward at or near the point where the present +trolley line intersects it. Here there is a well-preserved scar for +almost a mile to the point where the road joins the National turnpike +near the six-mile post. The route then follows along the north side of +the turnpike, crossing Braddock Run, a little to the north of the +bridge;[27] thence running westerly north of the Six Mile House, it +recrosses Braddock Run, and a few rods beyond passes between the house +and barn of Charles Laber. On this farm there is a copious spring of +excellent water, locally known as Braddock Spring,[28] situated about +175 feet south of Braddock Road, and according to local tradition +marking the site of Spendelow Camp. That this theory is altogether +unlikely, however, is shown not only by the fact that the tradition does +not harmonize with the best authorities, but also by the topography of +the country and the lack of sufficient and suitable ground for an +encampment. That an advance party may have spent the night at or near +this fine spring is not improbable, but the natural place for the camp +was in the neighborhood of Alleghany Grove Camp Ground.[29] + +Less than a quarter of a mile west of Charles Laber's house Braddock +Road again crosses Braddock Run; thence turning almost due south in +order to avoid a rocky ascent over which no road could be built, it +comes into the National turnpike about a mile west of the old +toll-house. From this point it coincides with the turnpike for 225 feet; +then it veers away to the north for some rods and turns west, crossing +the county road known as the Short Gap road about fifty yards north of +its junction with the turnpike, and passing the house now owned by John +Laber. A short distance west of this point it crosses the turnpike and +the Eckhart branch of the Cumberland and Pennsylvania Railroad in order +to avoid a very deep hollow, and joins the pike again four hundred feet +farther on. After following the old turnpike for about one hundred feet +it veers away again to the north of it at Spruce Bridge for about +three-quarters of a mile, passing Smith's Big Rocks, and joining the +turnpike again less than quarter of a mile east of Clarysville. From +Alleghany Grove Camp Ground to Clarysville there are only a few short +stretches where traces of the road cannot be distinctly seen, and in +some places the scar is nearly ten feet deep. + +At Clarysville the road turns into the valley of Flaggy Run, apparently +following the west bank of the stream,[30] along which there is a deep +depression formed by an old mill race that might easily be mistaken for +the road itself. About half a mile southwest of Clarysville the road +turns almost at a right angle, keeping approximately the course of the +present county road for three-quarters of a mile up Hoffman Hollow. +Here again, running parallel to the present road, is an old tramway +roadbed which might readily be taken for Braddock's path. A short +distance beyond the Hoffman coal mines, on the north side of the road, +is a very deep scar, which is probably a part of Braddock's roadbed. At +the top of the hill the road turns northward at almost a right angle in +order to avoid what was formerly a very wide swamp, and then passes over +the ridge and down through Layman's orchard, where there is a deep scar. +Near the end of this ridge, overlooking Frostburg and about five miles +from Spendelow Camp, is the site of the second encampment, Martin's +Plantation.[31] + +From here the road crosses first the headwaters of the eastern branch of +George's Creek, next the Cumberland and Pennsylvania Railroad, and then +runs southeast of Frostburg into the premises of James Grose, and on +through the Sheatz, Taylor, and William Tiley properties to Braddock +Park. About 350 feet north of this park is an old milestone, which is +supposed by some writers to have been set up by Braddock.[32] Leaving +Braddock Park the line follows the Midlothian road for about four +hundred feet; but, soon entering a lane, it crosses the western branch +of George's Creek east of an old spring-house standing near the ruins of +the old Musselman farmhouse, and bearing the inscription "C. & S. +Musselman, May 30th, 1806." At this point, one-fourth mile west from +Braddock Park, the ascent of Big Savage Mountain begins. Although there +are some level spots on the western slope of the mountain, the ascent of +more than two miles is very steep and rocky, and the cut is several feet +deep in places.[33] The descent for a half mile or more is also very +rugged and in places extraordinarily steep.[34] On the east and west +slopes the traces of the route are very distinct. + +At the foot of the mountain the road unites with a highway a little to +the east of Andrew Jackson Moore's stone house, and continues with it +for nearly half a mile, when it apparently turns into a private or +secondary road for about another mile to a point where there is a +favorable place for fording Savage River, the last water that empties +itself into the Potomac.[35] Near a schoolhouse on the north bank of +Savage River and a short distance west of the mouth of Carey Run the +road begins a very steep ascent of Little Savage Mountain. From this +point to the Henry Blocher farm, a little over a mile westward, the +course of the road follows closely that of a private way, on either side +of which there are for short intervals very clear signs of the location +of Braddock Road. From various indications it seems reasonable to +conclude that the farm of Henry Blocher, with the adjoining one of +George Blocher, marks the location of Braddock's third encampment, +Savage River Camp.[36] There is a local tradition that about five +hundred yards west of the Henry Blocher farm a skirmish with the Indians +took place, and that near a clump of trees east of Blocher's house some +British soldiers were buried.[37] + +From the Henry Blocher farm the line follows the general course of a +private road westward for about a mile, crosses Mudlick Run to Read +Anderson's house, and thence leads up a rather formidable hill, on which +Braddock's engineers appear for the first time to have made use of a +winding path as a means of ascent. From this hill the road runs by very +favorable ground in a nearly straight line to the corner of a wood, and +then on through the woods to a township road, which it crosses at a +point about a quarter of a mile from the National turnpike. Proceeding +in the same straight line westward less than quarter of a mile, it +reaches and crosses the turnpike to the north. It was at or near this +intersection that the first brigade probably encamped on June 15.[38] + +From this point to some woods less than a quarter of a mile westward +there is no trace of the road, but through these woods there is a +well-marked scar for over half a mile to Two Mile Run. Near this stream +are the renowned "Shades of Death," once a deep forest the tops of whose +towering trees intertwined.[39] From the "Shades of Death" the road +passes up Red Ridge, crossing another road a few rods to the north of a +house now occupied by Henry Meerbach;[40] thence it runs to Wolf Swamp +and Red Run,[41] and on to the foot of Meadow Mountain.[42] On the east +and west slopes of this mountain the cuts, from six to ten feet deep, +are for long distances clearly perceptible. On the western slope the +beautiful estate of Little Meadows, now owned by D. F. Kuykendall, of +Cumberland, marks the location of the fourth encampment.[43] + +A short distance from Little Meadows the road crosses Chestnut Ridge. +Thence proceeding westwardly, it intersects the National turnpike about +one mile east of the Little Crossings bridge over the Castleman River, +runs through the farm of Eli Stanton, where there is a very clear scar, +and then crosses the Jennings Brothers' railroad.[44] A quarter of a +mile farther westward it intersects the National turnpike near Stanton's +old mill; but, after following the turnpike very closely for a few rods, +it veers off to the south, crossing the Castleman River about three +hundred yards above the Little Crossings bridge, near a point locally +known as Hickory Hole. On the west side of the river the road veers away +to the southwest, and a few rods from the fording enters some woods, in +which the scar is well marked. Thence turning westward it passes about a +quarter of a mile south of Grantsville, and continues in an +approximately straight line to Shade Hill, which shows a scar as deep as +any on the mountain ranges previously mentioned.[45] At the foot of the +western slope of this hill the road crosses Big Shade Run; and a short +distance westward, near Little Shade Run, it passes the house and barn +now owned by John P. Miller. This was the place of the fifth encampment. + +At this point, in plain view of the National turnpike, the road begins +the ascent of Negro Mountain. Following a distinct trace for about a +mile, the traveller reaches the farm now owned by G. W. Shaw. The road +passes north of his house; and, at a point a quarter of a mile to the +westward and about the same distance south of the National turnpike, it +intersects a country road which extends northward to the turnpike. +Continuing from this point in the same straight line, it crosses the +turnpike one-fourth of a mile west of a milestone which bears the +inscription "104 to Wheeling To Frostburg 16." Up the mountain for a +distance of less than a mile the scar of the road is clearly seen, as +far as the north fork of Spiker Run on the eastern slope. From this +point, again, the line is easily followed westward for more than half a +mile, until it passes immediately south of the Oak Grove or Mennonite +church; but from here to the place at which it intersects the National +road on the eastern slope of Negro Mountain, at a lane east of the house +of H. C. Butler, there are but slight traces. + +Along this lane for half a mile through slightly rolling depressions the +road runs on to Puzzley Run, and after fording the run passes with a +distinct scar north of a vacant log house over a very difficult pass to +a lane east of William Augustine's house, and thence along this lane for +several rods to the house, which is built on the very roadbed itself and +less than one hundred yards from the National turnpike. From Augustine's +house the line runs parallel to the turnpike, but a few rods south of +it, for over two miles to Coon Spiker's house, showing here and there +traces of the road that are more or less distinct. Apparently passing +south of this house and on through a lane to the south of Stephen +Spiker's house, it presently, a little to the westward, enters a stretch +of woods, through which it proceeds over Keyser Ridge, where, although +there is a very luxuriant growth of underbrush, the trace of the road +for a little over two miles is so distinct as to leave no doubt in +regard to its course over this rocky and very difficult pass. From the +woods it emerges into the bottom of the north fork of Mill Run, less +than half a mile from the Pennsylvania and Maryland boundary line at +Oakton, Maryland.[46] Here, in one of the most picturesque places for an +encampment along the entire route, was Bear Camp.[47] + +Leaving Bear Camp, the road, after crossing Mill Run, intercepts the +Pennsylvania boundary line, and a few rods farther on crosses the +National turnpike less than one-fourth of a mile west of Oakton. It then +continues its course over Winding Ridge, on which the traces of it are +especially well marked. On the west side of this ridge the line passes +north of an old milk house and of a stone house owned by William Miller. +About half a mile westward it joins the National turnpike, which it +follows for nearly six hundred feet, and then veers away in a northerly +direction through some woods, crossing the headwaters of Laurel Run near +an old chestnut tree, two hundred yards east of Edward J. Augustine's +house. From this point to Addison, a little over a mile distant, the +road parallels the turnpike less than quarter of a mile to the north of +it. + +From Addison the course westward for nearly two miles to John +Augustine's house is well defined, though only here and there does one +find noticeable scars of the road. Before reaching John Augustine's +house one comes to Jasper Augustine's estate, where there was formerly +on Braddock Road an old hotel known as the Old Granny Welsh House, of +which nothing now remains but a few foundation stones. The exact +location of the point at which Braddock Road crosses the National +turnpike west of John Augustine's house is not quite clear; but the line +seems to turn almost due south less than three hundred yards west of his +house, winding round a hill and then passing through a lane to Jacob +Miller's house.[48] A short distance southwest of this house it strikes +north of the north branch of Braddock Run, and about half a mile beyond +comes to the forks of the run. Between these forks, and possibly a short +distance westward, is the ground which formed the seventh encampment, +called Squaw's Fort.[49] + +From this point the road follows Braddock Run to its mouth, fording +(without bridging) the Big Crossings of the Youghiogheny at or near the +mouth of Braddock Run, about half a mile above where the National road +now crosses the river.[50] Keeping on down the west bank of the stream, +it begins a sharp ascent of Wolf, or Turkey Garden Hill, at a point +opposite Somerfield, and follows the northern side of this hill for some +distance before entering Jockey Hollow. The slope of the hill is very +steep and the scar distinctly marked; but from Jockey Hollow onward +through the valley of Potter Run there are almost no traces of the road. +After keeping a little way up this run through the valley of Stuck +Hollow, the line turns at almost a right angle to follow the course of a +small run leading to Second River Hill, which is less than two hundred +yards south of the National road. At the beginning of the ascent on the +eastern slope of this hill, just at the entrance to some woods, are +three distinct scars that eventually converge into one road, which runs +down the western slope and a little farther on passes less than ten rods +south of the house of Isaac M. Thomas.[51] A short distance westward +from his house the line runs to the north of the house of A. M. Thomas, +thence into a township road, then on past Charles Umble's residence to +that of B. F. Miller, and a little way from this place enters the woods +on Division Ridge. No other part of the old Braddock Road presents such +difficulties as this section of it over Division Ridge, for the +underbrush is so thick in places that one is compelled to crawl on hands +and knees in order to keep the road. The slopes are very rocky and the +passes are exceedingly difficult, but with plainly marked scars. At the +western foot of this ridge was situated the camp of the Twelve Springs, +which Orme designated as "the camp on the east side the Great +Meadows."[52] + +From this point the road, after passing through some woods for over a +mile and a half, crosses the Haydentown road near the house of Isaac +Savage. About a quarter of a mile west of this place there is a large +bog or swamp, a hundred or more yards across, which, if one may judge +from present conditions, the expedition probably skirted to the north, +and then went on westward in almost a straight line for about a mile and +a half till it came to the present township road. From the camp of the +Twelve Springs to this place one has very little difficulty in following +the old road; but from this point onward for a little over a mile no +distinct traces can be found. The most probable inferences, however, +support the local tradition that the line coincides with the township +road for a few rods, then crosses it north of an old burying-ground, to +the east of which formerly stood an old hotel, and then, immediately +rejoining it, coincides or closely parallels it for a distance of less +than half a mile. At this point the road enters the farm of W. H. +Hansel, and, proceeding in a northwesterly direction, presently enters a +strip of woods, passes the old Bishop house (unoccupied), and then runs +down Hager Hill south of James Bishop's, a quarter of a mile south of +Fort Necessity.[53] For a mile and a half from the James Bishop house +the road can be very accurately followed to the point at which it +intersects the National turnpike,--a point, it may be noted, about a +stone's throw south of the spot where lie the mortal remains of General +Braddock.[54] At this intersection the road leaves the turnpike never +again to rejoin it, and turns somewhat to the northwest in order to gain +a favorable pass over Chestnut Ridge, the last mountain ridge to be +crossed. About a quarter of a mile northward from Braddock's grave was +"the camp on the west side of the Great Meadows," the Orchard Camp.[55] + +[Illustration: SITE OF FORT NECESSITY + +FROM PAINTING BY PAUL WEBER, 1854] + +A short distance from this camp the road runs south of Nemacolin's +Wigwam,[56] and a few rods northward near a schoolhouse enters the +wooded part of Chestnut Ridge, on the eastern slope of which it passes +the spot called Peddler's Rocks. On the western slope a sort of +transverse road, the traces of which are easily followed except for +about a quarter of a mile, was cut to join a township road near the +house of John Henry Rankin, three miles and a half from Braddock's +grave. A few rods distant on the west side of the township road are the +Half King's Rocks, better known as the Great Rock, where the old camp of +the Half King was located; and close by these rocks and south of the +road is "Washington Springs," the place of Braddock's tenth encampment, +called Rock Fort,[57] two miles south of Dunbar's camp. + +From Washington Springs the line follows the course of the present road +for about a mile, with distinct marks at intervals along the sides; it +then continues in a northerly direction eastward of the present road to +a point east of Jumonville and of Jumonville's grave.[58] From here it +keeps its northerly course along a very narrow crest of the mountain, +past the Honey Comb Rock, and thereafter in the main follows the +dividing line between North Union and Dunbar townships to a point about +one mile south of the old Meason house on the Gist Plantation, when by a +slight deflection northwestward it crosses Cove Run and the Pennsylvania +Railroad to Gist's Plantation, the place of the eleventh encampment.[59] +Between the tenth and eleventh encampments the traces of the road are so +plain that one does not have to rely on inference. + +The last mountain barrier had now been passed. Along this narrow road, +cut but twelve feet wide and with the line of march often extending four +miles at a time, the army had toiled on day after day, crossing ridge +after ridge of the Alleghany Mountains, now plunging down into a deep +and often narrow ravine, now climbing a difficult and rocky ascent, but +always in the deep shadow of the forest. On such a thoroughfare, running +between heavily-wooded forests on either side of the road and made still +narrower and often several feet deep by usage, it was of course +impossible for a vehicle coming in the opposite direction to pass; but +on nearly all the mountain ranges, and especially in the low grounds, +there were wider places where by some kind of signals or by some +preconcerted understanding the packtrains and wagons, which frequently +moved in caravans, could meet and pass one another. Thenceforward, +however, the character and general aspect of the country were noticeably +different. The land of active coal developments, including coke ovens, +had been reached. For many miles to the northward the traveller passes +over a vast extent of country from under which the coal has been taken, +and from which the props have given way in many places, leaving deep and +treacherous holes. Such crevices are especially frequent from Prittstown +to a point east of Mount Pleasant, a circumstance which in some places +materially interferes with the relocation of Braddock Road. + +Leaving Gist's Plantation the line runs abruptly to the northward, +evidently keeping the higher ground to a point about a quarter of a mile +east of Leisenring, where it turns into the valley of Opossum Run and +follows the stream to its mouth in the Youghiogheny. On the west side of +the Youghiogheny, near Robinson's Falls, was the place of the twelfth +encampment.[60] Although no trustworthy scars of the road from Gist's +Plantation to this point are discernible, there can be little doubt that +this was the line of march.[61] + +Braddock forded the Youghiogheny at Stewart's Crossing, below the mouth +of Opossum Creek, to a point on the opposite side of the river above the +mouth of Mounts Creek, half a mile below Connellsville.[62] His next +encampment, which was on the east side of the fording, a mile north of +the mouth of Mounts Creek, cannot be definitely fixed; but most probably +it was on Davidson's land, southeast of the Narrows.[63] Between this +point and the battleground there were still some highlands to be +crossed, which, though trivial in comparison with the mountains already +traversed, were yet rugged enough to present serious difficulties to the +troops, already worn out with previous labors and exertions. + +From the camp the road passes through the Narrows, evidently along the +present township road, until it strikes the boundary line between +Bullskin and Upper Tyrone townships. This it follows in a northeasterly +direction for a distance of some mile and a half, with a few noticeable +deflections from the present township road, to a point about half a mile +east of Valley Works. Here the course veers away to the northeast in +almost a straight line to Prittstown, either paralleling or coinciding +with the line between Bullskin and Upper Tyrone for the last mile or so. +Then, continuing in the same direction beyond Prittstown for a mile and +a half, it reaches the John W. Truxell farm (recently purchased by Elmer +E. Lauffer[64]), where on the night of July 1 the army seems to have +bivouacked in order that a swamp which extended for a considerable +distance on either side of Jacob's Creek might be made passable. From +the Truxell farm the line turns almost due north through the swamp, +crossing Green Lick Run, and thence keeping a straight line west of the +Fairview church to a point a short distance west of Hammondville. Here, +at a place called Jacob's Cabin, still on the east side of Jacob's +Creek, the army encamped. It must be admitted that very few reliable +traces of the road from Connellsville to this point were found by the +exploring party; but the topography of the country, the course of the +road as shown on the earlier maps, the testimony of Orme's journal and +of local tradition, all lead the writer to believe that the route +between these two points as here laid down is correct in the main.[65] + +Braddock appears to have crossed Jacob's Creek a short distance west of +Pershing Station, on the Scottdale branch of the Pennsylvania Railroad +near the spot where Welshonse's mill formerly stood.[66] On this side of +the creek the road follows the township line a distance of one and +one-half miles to Eagle Street in Mount Pleasant, and while still within +the limits of the town crosses the Pittsburg and Mount Pleasant pike. +From Mount Pleasant the course for the next few miles is quite evidently +that of the township line between Mount Pleasant and Hempfield townships +on the east and north and East Huntingdon and South Huntingdon townships +on the west and south respectively. A portion of this line coincides +with the road now in use. About a mile north of Mount Pleasant is a very +deep scar in an old orchard on the John McAdam farm, a trace which +continues to be visible for some rods farther north on the same farm. A +little way beyond the point where the Braddock Road leaves the McAdam +farm there is also a marked depression for over five hundred yards on +the property of the Warden heirs. Extending a mile westward from the +intersection of the Mount Pleasant, Hempfield, and East Huntingdon +township lines is a great swamp of several hundred acres,[67] which the +road skirts to the eastward and then keeps on to the Edwin S. Stoner +farm, near Belson's Run, a tributary of Sewickley Creek. According to +local tradition, this farm is the site of the Salt Lick Camp, a view in +support of which there is much to be said.[68] + +About a quarter of a mile from the Stoner farm the line crosses Belson's +Run southeast of Combato's store to a private or secondary road known as +Braddock's Lane, which it follows for three-quarters of a mile till it +meets a township road. From this point it keeps the present township +line to Sewickley Creek, at the point of intersection between Hempfield +and South and East Huntingdon townships, half a mile southwest of +Hunkers.[69] After crossing Sewickley Creek[70] the road veers away +northwest, showing a slight depression a little farther on, south of +David Beck's house. Continuing in practically the same straight line, it +apparently joins the boundary line between Sewickley and Hempfield +townships, and thence runs westward along this line to the D. F. +Knappenberger farm,[71] which offers all the requirements favorable for +a camp, and is probably the place of the sixteenth encampment, Thicketty +Run.[72] + +From this place, which is about a mile southeast of old Madison, the +road seems to follow the township line northwestward; for southwest of +Madison there are some well-marked scars, and a short distance beyond +the town, near the fording of a run on the higher ground approaching the +Little Sewickley, there are more traces. After fording the Little +Sewickley it passes, still northwestward, through the John Leisure +farm,[73] showing on the top of the hill beyond and westward toward the +John C. Fox farm some trustworthy scars. At this point, about a mile +northwest of the Little Sewickley, it crosses a township road over some +falls between John C. Fox's house and barn, and thence with very +perceptible traces keeps on in the same straight line to the William B. +Howell farm. From a point one-fourth of a mile southeast of the Howell +house it follows the present clay road to a point as far beyond, and +thence continues westward to the Hezekiah Gongaware farm.[74] After +leaving this place the line is unquestionably that of the present +township road for about a quarter of a mile; then, going on in the same +direction, it passes about a quarter of a mile south of Byerly's +schoolhouse. At less than half a mile beyond the schoolhouse it joins +the present township road again, and thus continues to Circleville, +except for one short stretch of a few rods to the east of the road, +where there is a very clear depression. In Circleville the road seems to +pass east of Long Run church, and a few rods northwest of it crosses the +Pittsburg and Philadelphia turnpike. Here, in the neighborhood of +Circleville and Stewartsville, the army encamped again. + +[Illustration: BRADDOCK'S BATTLEFIELD + +FROM PAINTING BY PAUL WEBER, 1854] + +At this point General Braddock, after causing an examination of the +country between the camp and Fort Duquesne to be made, abandoned his +design of approaching the fort by the ridge route, being deterred by the +deep and rugged ravines of the streams and by the steep and almost +perpendicular precipices to the eastward of Circleville and +Stewartsville.[75] Turning westward, therefore, at almost a right +angle at or near Stewartsville, possibly at Charles Larimer's barn, the +route strikes out in a shorter line coincident with the present county +road, undoubtedly following the course of this road for about a mile; +thence continuing in the same direction for a little over a mile along a +ridge on either side of which is a narrow valley, it intersects the +White Oak Level road about half a mile east of the boundary line between +Alleghany and Westmoreland counties. From this point it follows +naturally down the valley of Long Run, past what was Samson's old +mill,[76] and across Long Run at or near the present bridge to a point +about two and a half miles westward, where the army encamped at a very +favorable depression now known as McKeesport, two miles north of the +Monongahela River and about four miles from the battlefield. A +magnificent spring of water marks the site of this encampment, which was +called Monongahela Camp.[77] + +On the morning of July 9 the army turned into the valley of Crooked Run +down what is now known as Riverton Avenue, fording the Monongahela to +the north of the mouth of the run in order to avoid the narrow pass on +the east side of the river.[78] The route follows down the western bank +of the Monongahela through what is now Duquesne, fording the river a +second time a short distance west of Turtle Creek. Here, on the eastern +bank of the Monongahela, the battle took place. + +From a point about a mile southeast from Circleville to Braddock's Field +there are no trustworthy scars of the road; but the topography of the +country is such that the line between these two points can be readily +determined. Some of the older citizens pointed out to the writer the +place at which Braddock forded the Monongahela, for marks of the passage +have been visible until within a few years.[79] Recently, however, the +whole complexion of the ground on the west side of the river has been +changed to so great a degree, not only by the erection of steel works +with their large deposits of slag along the banks, but also by the +improved methods of navigation, that all traces of Braddock's movements +are forever obliterated. On the eastern side of the Monongahela and west +of Turtle Creek, at what is now Braddock, where the battle occurred, +encouraging efforts are now on foot that promise to lead to a +satisfactory settlement of the point at which the fording actually +occurred, as well as of the location of the route through the +battlefield and of the ground on which the British and the French troops +took position.[80] + +[Illustration: BRADDOCK'S GRAVE + +FROM PAINTING BY PAUL WEBER, 1854] + +In the hope of finding some signs of the path through the battlefield, +the writer made a somewhat careful examination and study of the place; +but the contour of the ground over which the line of march extended was +found to be so much altered that even the slightest traces of its course +were not perceptible. From a study of the Mackellar maps,[81] however, +it would appear that from a point a few rods west of Turtle Creek, +eastward and northward of Frazer's Cabin, the road veered away to the +northwest,[82] evidently crossing the Pennsylvania Railroad at or near +Thirteenth Street (where there was formerly a hollow way or ravine, it +is said), and thence more than probably following the course of the +railroad to Robinson Street, and on to a point northward of the old +Robinson burying-ground. From here the line would seem to have kept east +of the Pennsylvania Railroad and station until it reached a point about +six hundred yards beyond the station, between Jones Avenue and Sixth +Street. This street may be identified as the second ravine, through +which Frazer's Run flowed and in which the advance column of Braddock's +army was attacked by Captain Beaujeu[83] and his party.[84] + + +FOOTNOTES: + + [1] During the month of August, 1908, the writer conducted the + following party over the Braddock Road: Charles Francis Abbott of + Somerville, Mass., a sub-master in the Somerville English High School; + Henry Temple of Washington, Pa., professor of history at Washington + and Jefferson College, and his son John, a student at Washington and + Jefferson Academy; Claude S. Larzelere of Mount Pleasant, Michigan, + professor of history in the Michigan State Normal School; Ernest + K. Weller of Washington, Pa., photographer; Edward B. Murdoch, + Esq., and his brother, John H. Murdock, a senior at Washington and + Jefferson College. During the months of June and July, 1909, he + conducted a second party over the road: Andrew Jackson Waychoff, + professor of history at Waynesburg College; Rev. George P. Donehoo + of Connellsville, Pa.; Charles P. McCormick of Bentleyville, Pa., + principal of the Bentleyville Public School; Edward Westlake of + Washington, Pa., principal of the Fifth Ward School at Washington, + Pa.; and Ernest K. Weller of Washington, Pa., photographer. + + For constant interest and the stimulus of frequent discussions, + for many helpful suggestions in regard to the preparation of this + paper, and for valuable criticism of the manuscript, the writer is + under the deepest obligation to Professor Albert Bushnell Hart of + Harvard University; for helpful criticism of the manuscript he is + indebted also to Professor Edward Channing and to Professor William + Bennett Munro of Harvard University; for conscientious and efficient + service in the preparation of the manuscript for the press he owes + a peculiar debt of gratitude to Miss Addie F. Rowe of Cambridge; + and for practical help at every step of the way he again offers his + hearty thanks to the scores of persons who have given him valued and + appreciated assistance, some of them at great expense of time and + labor. + + The accompanying map, made on the ground, but afterwards drafted under + the supervision of J. Sutton Wall, chief draughtsman, and William + A. Moore, assistant-chief draughtsman of the Interior Department, + Harrisburg, Pa., gives a pretty clear idea of the course of the road + and the location of the encampments. Of Middleton's map (originally + published in _Olden Time_, II. op. 528) Lowdermilk says, "The map as + now given may be confidently accepted as perfectly accurate in every + respect" (Lowdermilk, _History of Cumberland_, 137). To one who has + followed the course of the road for himself, however, the fallacy of + such an assertion is apparent; for, though Middleton's map may fairly + be regarded as altogether the best yet published, it does not show the + route through the Narrows of Wills Creek at all, nor does it indicate + all the deviations from the Cumberland (National) Road. Not that any + sweeping claim to absolute accuracy is made for the accompanying map. + The writer may be permitted to say, however, that he has exercised + great care in laying down the road on the topographic sheets, and that + from many trustworthy sources he has gained information which has + helped to fix definitely points long since obliterated. + + [2] Charles C. Coffin, _Old Times in the Colonies_, 377. + + [3] The five governors were William Shirley of Massachusetts, James + De Lancey of New York, Robert Hunter Morris of Pennsylvania, Robert + Dinwiddie of Virginia, and Horatio Sharpe of Maryland. The council was + held at the Carlisle House, often called the Braddock House, which is + still standing. For the answers of the governors, see _Documentary + History of New York_, II. 648-651. + + [4] Fort Cumberland, situated on the west side of Wills Creek, + was erected and garrisoned during the winter of 1754-5 under the + supervision of Colonel James Innes, who called it Fort Mount Pleasant. + The name was changed to Fort Cumberland in 1755 by order of General + Braddock. Today the Emanuel Episcopal church occupies part of the + ground of the old fort, which was situated on a bluff rising from the + creek. + + [5] See Winthrop Sargent, _History of an Expedition against Fort Du + Quesne_, 366-373. This monograph was published in the United States in + 1855 by the Historical Society of Pennsylvania. The first 280 pages + contain an introductory memoir by Sargent; pages 281-358 include the + journal of Robert Orme, one of Braddock's aides-de-camp (this is + the only American edition of Orme's record), and pages 359-389 the + journal of a naval officer which is very frequently referred to as + the Seaman's Journal. Of this second journal there seem to be two + texts, one preserved in the Royal Artillery Library at Woolwich, + England (printed in Hulbert's _Historic Highways of_ _America_, IV. + 83-107), the other in the possession of the Rev. Francis-Orpen Morris + of Newburnholm Rectory, Yorkshire, to whose father it was given by + Captain Hewitt. The second text is the one published by Sargent, but + the variations between the two manuscripts are unimportant for the + present purpose. This paper will refer to the Sargent edition of the + second journal under the caption of _Seaman Journal_; and in citing + the _Orme Journal_ it will also use the pagination of Sargent. + + [6] On this day Washington was appointed an aide-de-camp to Braddock. + + [7] Braddock to Sir Thomas Robinson, _Olden Time_, II. 237. See also + Hulbert, _Historic Highways_, IV. 68; and Franklin, _Works_ (Bigelow + ed.), I. 251, 257. + + [8] _Orme Journal_, 315; see also Thomas Balch, _Letters and Papers + relating to the Provincial History of Pennsylvania_, 34-35. + + [9] See _Burd Papers_ (Mss.) in the library of the Historical Society + of Pennsylvania. At the time of Braddock's defeat this Pennsylvania + road was completed to the summit of the Alleghany mountain, some 20 + miles beyond Raystown, now Bedford, Pa. (see _Pennsylvania Colonial + Records_, VI. 484-485). In 1758 General Forbes constructed a road (now + commonly known as the Forbes Road) from Bedford to Fort Duquesne. This + route runs about parallel to the Braddock Road, though many miles + north of it. + + [10] Hulbert, _Historic Highways_, II. 89-91. In 1753 the Ohio Company + had opened up this path or trail at great expense; and in 1754 + Washington had repaired the road as far west as Gist's Plantation (Mt. + Washington). See Washington, _Writings_ (Sparks ed.), II. 51. + + [11] _Orme Journal_, 323-324. + + [12] The construction of the Cumberland Road was authorized by an + act of Congress, approved March 29, 1806, and entitled "An Act to + regulate the laying out and making a Road from Cumberland, in the + State of Maryland, to the State of Ohio" (United States, _Statutes + at Large_, II. 357). By the provisions of the act the President was + required to appoint, by and with the advice and consent of the Senate, + three discreet and disinterested citizens to constitute a board of + commissioners to lay out the road. The men selected were Thomas Moore + and Eli Williams of Maryland, and Joseph Kerr of Ohio. + + In their second report, under date of January 15, 1808, the + commissioners show that the new road followed only a very small + portion of the Braddock Road. "The law," runs the document, "requiring + the commissioners to report those parts of the route as are laid on + the old road, as well as those on new grounds, and to state those + parts which require the most immediate attention and amelioration, the + probable expense of making the same _passable_ in the most difficult + parts, and through the whole distance, they have to state that, from + the crooked and hilly course of the road now traveled, the new route + could not be made to occupy any part of it (except an intersection + on Wills Mountain [Sandy Gap], another at Jesse Tomlinson's [Little + Meadows], and a third near Big Youghioghana [Somerfield], embracing + not a mile of distance in the whole) without unnecessary sacrifices of + distance and expense" (_Executive Document_, 10 Cong., 1 sess., Feb. + 19, 1808, 8 pp.). + + On November 11, 1834, the new road through the Narrows was opened + for travel, the citizens of Cumberland, Frostburg, and the vicinity + celebrating the occasion in an enthusiastic and elaborate manner + (Lowdermilk, _History of Cumberland_, 336). + + [13] This was formerly the building of the Mount Nebo School for Young + Ladies. + + [14] This point of intersection may be further verified by reference + to the first report (of December 30, 1806) made by the commissioners + who laid out the Cumberland Road: "From a stone at the corner of lot + No. 1, in Cumberland, near the confluence of Wills Creek and the north + branch of Potomac River, thence extending along the street westwardly + to cross the hill lying between Cumberland and Gwynn's Six Mile House, + at the gap where Braddock's Road passes it" (_Executive Document_, 9 + Cong., 2 sess., Jan. 31, 1807, 16 pp.). + + [15] It probably follows the turnpike here in order to avoid a very + deep hollow. This conclusion of the writer is confirmed by the + resurvey of Pleasant Valley patented to Evan Gwynne on October 5, + 1795, which calls for "a water oak standing above the three springs + that break out in Braddock's Road" (Deed from Evan Gwynne to Joseph + Everstein, May 27, 1834, recorded in Liber R, folios 95-96, in the + office of the clerk of Alleghany County, at Cumberland, Maryland). + These springs are a few rods west of James H. Percy's tenant house, + which is on the old Cumberland Road. + + [16] The Honorable Augustus Keppel, commodore of the fleet, had + furnished Braddock with a detachment of thirty sailors and some + half-dozen officers to assist in the rigging, cordages, etc. These + seamen proved of valuable aid to the expedition in getting the wagons + and the artillery down the mountain. + + [17] _Orme Journal_, 324. + + [18] _Orme Journal_, 324; also _Seaman Journal_, 381-382. For reasons + not easy to understand, the Cumberland Road was laid out along the + more westerly deflection over Wills Mountain by the way of Sandy + Gap, instead of by the natural and more favorable route through the + Narrows of Wills Creek. In 1834, however, it was changed to the latter + location, and remains the line of the present National turnpike. + + [19] The writer has interviewed many of the reliable and trustworthy + citizens of Cumberland on this point. To Robert Shriver and J. L. + Griffith, respectively president and cashier of the First National + Bank of Cumberland, and to the late Robert H. Gordon, one of the + leading attorneys of the town, he owes special thanks for their + painstaking interest, given at the expense of much valuable time, + in aiding him in his attempt to discover the route of the army out + of Cumberland. Mr. Shriver, who has made an extensive study of the + course of the road from Fort Cumberland to the Narrows, thinks that + the weight of evidence favors a route from Fort Cumberland along the + gradually sloping ground northwestward to a point on Wills Creek + about where the cement mill now stands. From here the road would have + been easy, comparatively short, and almost level for the greater part + of the distance to the eastern end of the gap, where there would + evidently have been a favorable opportunity to ford Wills Creek near + the mouth of one of its tributaries. Much might be said in favor + of this contention; but, unfortunately, it has thus far failed to + yield any results that look toward a definite and authoritative + identification of Braddock's line of march. + + [20] It is worthy of note that the bridge was in course of + construction at least twelve days before the road through the Narrows + was completed (_Seaman Journal_, 379). + + [21] See Shippen's manuscript draft of 1759, in the library of the + Historical Society of Pennsylvania; map in Orme's Journal, op. 282; + and a map in Hulbert, _Historic Highways_, IV. op. 20. These maps, + though necessarily drawn on a small scale, give color to the theory of + this route. + + [22] See Washington's manuscript sketch of Fort Cumberland made in + 1758, in E. M. Avery, _History of the United States_, IV. 207. + + [23] In 1863 Mr. Robert Shriver made a most excellent photograph of + this point, which shows the stratum in its primitive condition. + + [24] See Lowdermilk, _History of Cumberland_, 137; also Searight, _The + Old Pike_, 64, 71 ff. G. G. Townsend of Frostburg, road engineer for + Alleghany County, Maryland, has an old blue print, made before the + railroads were built, which shows on the left, or eastern, bank of + Wills Creek a wagon road running through the Narrows and crossing the + creek near the mouth of Braddock Run. + + [25] The three engineers who accompanied Braddock's expedition + (_Seaman Journal_, 364) made striking use of a series of absolutely + straight lines in laying out the road, except where the fording of + a river required a tortuous route, or where the topography of the + country was such as to render their plan utterly impracticable. This + device, which impressed itself upon the writer and his party as they + were crossing Wills Mountain, afterwards proved of great value to + them in their efforts to pick up the road where traces of it were + completely obliterated for rods at a time in cultivated fields. + + [26] _Orme Journal_, 327. In fixing the several encampments the + writer has been aided to some extent by the maps already published, + but chiefly by Orme's journal, which records the number of miles of + each day's march with great accuracy, and by the topographic sheets, + without the aid of which neither the road nor the encampments could + have been so definitely located. + + [27] From this point to Clarysville the route is through a gap between + Dans Mountain and Piney Mountain. + + [28] This spring is about one-third of a mile west of the tollgate on + the National turnpike. + + [29] Although many misstatements and untenable notions as to the + location of the road, the places of encampment, etc., are prevalent in + the country adjacent to the line of march, yet local tradition is in + many cases surprisingly accurate. + + [30] See Middleton's map. + + [31] _Orme Journal_, 333. + + [32] See Lowdermilk's _History of Cumberland_, 257. This stone, + sometimes designated Braddock's Stone, bears the following + inscription: "11 mile To Ft Cumberland 29 Ms To Captn Smyth's + Inn and Bridge Big Crossings & The Best Road To Redstone Old Fort 64 + M." This is fairly legible. The other side reads, "Our countrys rights + we will defend." There is no reason for supposing that this stone was + erected by Braddock's command. + + [33] On the summit of the mountain, a few hundred yards to the north + of the road, is St. John Rock, 2930 feet above sea level, from which a + magnificent view of the surrounding country is to be had. + + [34] Three wagons were entirely destroyed in passing this mountain, + and several more were shattered (_Orme Journal_, 335). + + [35] It is an interesting fact that throughout the route the fording + of a stream was in every case at or slightly below the mouth of a + tributary. At such a place there is usually a riffle caused by the + formation of a bar of sand, gravel, and mud, the crest of which + offers a very practical opportunity for fording. Some of the apparent + deviations of the road from what would seem to have been the natural + course may have been made for the sake of avoiding a depth of water + which might have rendered the streams impassable except by bridging. + In other instances a circuitous route may have been the most + practicable way of passing a swamp or a bog. + + [36] _Orme Journal_, 335. + + [37] Orme mentions no encounter with the Indians at this place of + encampment. + + [38] According to Orme, the first brigade encamped about three + miles west of Savage River (_Orme Journal_, 335), a location which + corresponds with that suggested above. This spot, furthermore, is the + only advantageous ground in the vicinity. + + [39] Dense forests of white pine formerly covered this region, which, + from the deep gloom of the summer woods and the favorable shelter + that the pines gave to the Indian enemy, came to be spoken of as the + "Shades of Death." The writer's party was told that the old wagoners + who used to drive from Baltimore to Zanesville dreaded this locality + as the darkest and gloomiest place along the entire route. Of the + former gloomy forest, however, nothing now remains except the stumps. + The trees were cut down years ago, sawed up, and shipped to market. + + [40] From Mrs. Henry Meerbach the writer secured two English pennies + bearing date of 1724 and 1753 respectively, which, she said, were + picked up on Braddock Road on the eastern slope of Meadow Mountain. + + [41] This is doubtless the bog to which Orme refers as having "been + very well repaired by Sir John St. Clair's advanced party with + infinite labour" (_Orme Journal_, 335). + + [42] This mountain, it may be noted, constitutes the dividing ridge + between the waters that flow into the Atlantic and those that enter + the Gulf of Mexico. + + [43] _Orme Journal_, 335. The Little Meadows farm at present consists + of over 1200 acres. At the time the National turnpike was laid out + Jesse Tomlinson owned the land at this point and kept a tavern on + Braddock Road. The Tomlinson estate was, indeed, one of the objective + points for the turnpike as specified in the first report of the + commission appointed to lay out the National road, then uniformly + known under the legal name of Cumberland Road (_Executive Document_, 9 + Cong., 2 sess., Jan. 31. 1807, 16 pp.). On June 15, 1755, the entire + force had reached Little Meadows, where at a council of war it was + determined that General Braddock and Colonel Halket, with a detachment + of the best men of the two regiments (in all about 1400, lightly + encumbered), should move forward. Colonel Dunbar with the residue + (about 900), and the heavy baggage, stores, and artillery, was to + advance by slow and easy marches. + + [44] At this point it may be well to clear up an obscurity likely to + arise from a confusion of the following names: Little Meadows is at + the western slope of Meadow Mountain, twenty miles from Cumberland; + Great Meadows, which marks the site of Fort Necessity, is about + thirty-one miles farther west; Little Crossings is a ford of the + Castleman River just east of Grantsville and two miles west of Little + Meadows; Great Crossings is the passage of the Youghiogheny about half + a mile above Somerfield and sixteen miles west of Little Crossings. + + [45] This is the only region on the entire route in which pine trees + in any considerable quantity still remain. + + [46] Orme very accurately and tersely describes this day's march over + Keyser Ridge: "We could not reach our ground till about 7 of the + clock, which was three hours later than common, as there was no water, + nor even earth enough to fix a tent, between the great Mountain and + this place" (_Orme Journal_, 338). + + [47] At this camp, Washington, prostrated by a violent attack of + fever, was left under a guard to await the arrival of Dunbar with the + rest of the army. That it was really here, and not, as is usually + asserted, at Little Meadows or Little Crossings that Washington was + left, is clear from his own words. "We set out [from Little Meadows]," + he wrote to his brother on June 28, "with less than thirty carriages + including those that transported the ammunition for the howitzers, + twelve-pounders, and six-pounders, and all of them strongly horsed; + which was a prospect that conveyed infinite delight to my mind, though + I was exceedingly ill at the time. But this prospect was soon clouded, + and my hope brought very low indeed, when I found that, instead of + pushing on with vigor, without regarding a little rough road, they + were halting to level every mole-hill, and to erect bridges over every + brook, by which means we were four days in getting twelve miles. + At this camp I was left by the Doctor's advice, and the General's + positive orders" (Washington, _Writings_, Sparks ed., II. 82-83). + + What Washington says about the length of time spent in marching from + Little Meadows helps to fix the location of the camp; for it agrees + with Orme's assertion that they left Little Meadows on June 19 and + marched from the camp on June 23 (_Orme Journal_, 336-340). Even in + the matter of distance there is a difference of only a mile between + the two accounts, and this difference may be accounted for by the fact + that Orme always uses the phrase "we marched _about_" so many miles. + See also _Pennsylvania Gazette_, July 3, 1755. + + [48] See Shippen's manuscript draft of 1759, in the library of the + Historical Society of Pennsylvania. + + [49] _Orme Journal_, 340. This camping-ground was reached June 23, + 1755. Shippen's draft would seem to confirm the foregoing statements + as to the course of the road from Addison to the Youghiogheny. On + file, however, in the land office of the Interior Department at + Harrisburg, under date of Oct. 8, 1788 is the survey of a tract (also + marked Braddock's Old Road) situated near the headwaters of the south + branch of Braddock's Run, about one mile south of Addison. This + discovery, recently made, necessitates a further examination of the + ground in order, if possible, to determine the exact location of the + road between the state line and the Youghiogheny. + + [50] According to Orme, the Youghiogheny is at this point "about one + hundred yards wide, about three feet deep, with a very strong current" + (_Orme Journal_, 340). + + [51] The writer secured from Mr. Thomas an old axe that was found near + Braddock Road. There is every reason to believe that it was used by + one of Braddock's wood-choppers. + + [52] _Orme Journal_, 341. This camp was about four miles east of Great + Meadows, on land now occupied by Albert Landman. Formerly one Job + Clark kept a hotel at Twelve Springs on Braddock Road, one mile south + of the National turnpike. + + [53] _Orme Journal_, 341. Although the day was fast waning when + the cortege passed Fort Necessity,--the place where Washington had + the previous year capitulated with the honors of war to Coulon de + Villiers,--no stop was made there. This fort, of which some of the + outlines still remain, is situated on Meadow Run in Great Meadows, a + few hundred yards south of the National turnpike. In 1767 Washington + acquired, under the name of Mt. Washington, a tract of 334 acres + embracing Fort Necessity. That portion of Great Meadows which includes + the old fort is now owned by Lewis Fazenbaker. On July 4, 1908, a very + suitable marker was erected to commemorate the battle there. + + [54] The grave is enclosed by a board fence, within which are a + number of beautiful pine trees. A marker was erected at this point + on July 4, 1908. In 1909 a number of spirited citizens of Uniontown, + Pa., organized an association known as "The General Edward Braddock + Memorial Park Association." They have purchased twenty-four acres + of land, including Braddock's grave, and, in order to preserve to + posterity this historic spot, they propose to erect a suitable + monument to his memory and otherwise embellish the grounds. + + [55] _Orme Journal_, 343. This orchard, situated about two miles from + Fort Necessity and referred to by many writers, must have consisted of + crab apple trees at that time. In this camp Braddock died, July 13, + 1755. + + [56] Owned by Henry Harrison Wiggins. + + [57] "This Indian camp was in a strong position, being upon a high + rock with a very narrow and steep ascent to the top. It had a spring + in the middle, and stood at the termination of the Indian path to the + Monongahela, at the confluence of Red Stone Creek" (_Orme Journal_, + 343). By the aid of this description the writer was able to identify + the Half King's Rocks even to the minutest detail. + + [58] Jumonville marks the northernmost point reached by Dunbar's + regiment. Near the grave is the ledge of rocks on which Washington and + the Half King took position in their attack on Jumonville, May 28, + 1754, in what proved to be the initial battle of the French and Indian + War. As Francis Parkman tersely puts it, "This obscure skirmish began + the war that set the world on fire" (Parkman, _Montcalm and Wolfe_, + 1905, I. 156). + + [59] _Orme Journal_, 344. + + [60] _Orme Journal_, 344. James Veech says in his _Monongahela of + Old_ (p. 60) that this encampment was "a short half mile below New + Haven," on land then (1858) owned by Daniel Rogers; but Judge Veech is + confused by Orme's entry of June 28, which says, "The troops marched + about five miles to a camp on the east [west] side of Yoxhio Geni" + (_Orme Journal_, 344). It is worthy of note that Orme uses the term + "the troops marched" and not his customary phrase "we marched," a + circumstance from which it seems reasonable to infer that the advance + column halted a day at this encampment, and that on June 29 the + officers and the rest of the army at Gist's Plantation joined it here. + + [61] See Shippen's drafts, to which reference has already been made. + Through the courtesy of J. Sutton Wall, chief draughtsman of the + Interior Department, Harrisburg, Pa., who has made a draft connecting + a number of tracts lying southward from Stewart's Crossing along + the line of Braddock Road to Gist's place and the foot of Laurel + Ridge, the writer has been greatly aided in the preparation of his + own sketch. In the connected draft a few of the tracts do not show + the road; but a sufficient number do show it to corroborate the + conclusions reached by him relative to the course of the road from + Gist's place to Stewart's Crossing, and hence to enable him, on the + accompanying map, to lay down the road between these two points with + greater accuracy. + + [62] _Olden Time_, II. 543; Veech, _The Monongahela of Old_, 60-61. + + [63] _Orme Journal_, 345; Veech, _The Monongahela of Old_, 61. + + [64] Mr. Truxell writes to me, under date of November 30, 1908, that + this farm has been owned by the Truxells since 1806, and that in the + course of his life he has ploughed up at least a quart of bullets, + sometimes as many as a dozen at a single ploughing. + + [65] In regard to Braddock's movements on July 1st and 2d, the writer + desires to offer a plausible solution of some statements in Orme's + journal that have led to no little confusion and inaccurate assertion + on the part of those who have written on the subject. + + "On the first of July," says Orme, "we marched about five miles, but + could advance no further by reason of a great swamp which required + much work to make it passable." This bivouac, as has already been + said, is undoubtedly on the farm of John Truxell. The army, which was + close at the heels of the advance or working party, had to halt there + till a corduroy road could be thrown across the swamp, a process that + required time. + + "On the 2d July," continues Orme, "we marched to Jacob's Cabin, + about 6 miles from the camp." Notice the words "from the camp." The + preceding stop was then a _bivouac, not a camp_. The camp referred + to was the encampment one mile on the east side of the Youghiogheny, + at Stewart's Crossing. This day's march would be about one mile, and + the place of encampment Jacob's Cabin. The two halting places were + evidently both on the east side of Jacob's Creek. What is commonly + known as the Great Swamp Camp was only the bivouac to which reference + has been made. + + This view of the matter seems, however, not to have been taken by any + of the cartographers: but in estimating the value of maps one must, of + course, consider whether the author's first-hand knowledge, as well + as his borrowed data, be trustworthy or not, and must also take into + account the purpose for which the map was made. Professor Channing + has pointed out among other things that, while "a lie in print is + a persistent thing," one on a map is even less eradicable, and for + three reasons: (1) because the historical evidence on maps is liable + to error, and an error once made is copied by other cartographers, + with the result that a false impression frequently continues + through centuries; (2) because the topography is often wholly + wrong, especially on the earlier maps, a fact that is too commonly + overlooked by historians; (3) because, as our own national history has + abundantly proved, boundaries are frequently delineated imperfectly, + inaccurately, and without basis in fact. In a word, Professor Channing + thinks that maps are often taken too seriously, that the historical + information given by them is liable to error, and that they simply + raise a presumption. + + It is certainly true that, judged by the exceedingly accurate and + reliable journal of Orme, the map accompanying Sargent's _History of + an Expedition against Fort Du Quesne_ (op. 282) is in almost every + instance wholly inaccurate in regard to the location of Braddock's + camps, which it represents as scattered promiscuously along the route. + In scarcely a single respect, indeed, whether as to route or as to + location of camps, mountains, rivers, or anything else, can it be + depended upon. To cite a single instance, it puts Camp 6 (Bear Camp) + on the Youghiogheny, when this, as we have seen, is the location of + Squaw's Fort (see p. 23). No clue to the authorship of this map or to + any authority for it can be discovered. Similar fallacies occur in the + work of one of our latest historians, E. M. Avery, who in his _History + of the United States and its People_ (Cleveland, 1904, IV. 67) also + prints a beautifully-colored but inaccurate map. Judge Veech, too (in + his _Monongahela of Old_, 61), recognizes an apparent inconsistency in + Orme's journal at this point; but, like the others, he only adds more + fuel to the flame of confusion. + + [66] Veech, _The Monongahela of Old_, 61. Only a small part of the + foundation of this mill is now to be seen. + + [67] Jacob's Swamp. This is not to be confused with the swampy land + along Jacob's Creek. + + [68] It is only fair to say, however, that there is much difference + of opinion in regard to the location of this camp. On July 3 Orme + records, "The swamp being repaired, we marched about six miles to the + Salt Lick Creek." Many of the later maps and later accounts of the + period identify Jacob's Creek with Salt Lick Creek (see Sargent's + _History_, 346; Veech's _Monongahela of Old_, 61; Scull's map, 1770, + etc.); but there is no real authority for holding that the Salt Lick + Creek mentioned by Orme is Jacob's Creek. A small tributary of the + Youghiogheny, now known as Indian Creek, was, it is true, formerly + called Salt Lick Creek, whence came the name of Salt Lick township; + but the well-known salt licks and Painter's Salt Works were located + along the banks of Sewickley Creek near Hunkers. Here salt wells used + to be drilled to a depth of about five hundred feet; and to these + wells stock was driven from miles around, and people came from far and + near to boil down the salt water in order to secure salt for domestic + use. In the absence, therefore, of any authoritative evidence that the + Salt Lick Creek mentioned by Orme is Jacob's Creek, it seems to the + writer that the most probable location of Salt Lick Camp is on the + Edward Stoner farm, about two miles east from the fording of Sewickley + Creek. Among other indications that point to this farm as a favorable + place for encampment one notes the fact that a short distance west + of the Stoner house, under a large oak tree, there was formerly an + excellent spring (now filled up), and that there is also a run near + by. Mr. Stoner showed me a one-pound cannon ball which he found in a + stump less than a quarter of a mile from the road, and said that other + bullets had been picked up on the farm. + + [69] Eugene Warden, Esq., of Mount Pleasant, Pa., has aided the writer + very materially in the location of the road through Westmoreland + County by calling his attention to the following document, which + establishes definitely the fording of Jacob's Creek and the course of + the road to Sewickley Creek. + + "The Commissioner of Westmoreland County, pursuant to the directions + of an Act of Assembly of the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania, entitled + 'An Act for laying out competent Districts for the appointment of + Justices of the Peace, passed April 4, 1803,' laid out the said county + into the following districts, to wit:...." + + "Huntingdon South:--Beginning at the mouth of Big Sewickley; thence + up the river Youghiogheny to the mouth of Jacob's Creek; thence up + said creek to Braddock's Fording; thence along Braddock's Road to + Mt. Pleasant District line to a corner of Hempfield District; thence + along said line to Big Sewickley; thence down said creek to the place + of beginning." (Court of Common Pleas of Westmoreland County, Pa., + _Continuance Docket_ No. 5, p. 443.) + + [70] This fording was called Goudy (or Gowdy) Ford. + + [71] See _Orme Journal_, 346. + + [72] On July 4 Orme writes, "We marched about six miles to Thicketty + Run." This day they would cross Sewickley Creek a short distance west + of Hunkers, and their most likely place of encampment would be on the + D. F. Knappenberger farm, about two miles south of the fording, on + Little Sewickley Greek or Thicketty Run. This solution, which makes + Salt Lick Creek the Sewickley Creek and Thicketty Run the Little + Sewickley Creek, is no mere whim of the writer, but has been reached + from a knowledge of the country supplemented by the topographic sheets + and by a reasonable interpretation of Orme's journal. If he is correct + in his reasoning, there is no inconsistency in Orme's account. + + [73] Now owned by a coal company. + + [74] According to the distance travelled from the preceding camp, the + seventeenth encampment, or Monacatuca Camp, would be on this farm; + but, according to local tradition it was on the William B. Howell + farm, a mile away. This is the one camp as to the location of which + the writer has been unable to arrive at a satisfactory conclusion. + Considering the lay of the land, however, he sees no good reason why + the army should not have made the distance mentioned by Orme. + + [75] Judge Veech is in error when he says that the road "crossed the + present tracks of the Pennsylvania Railroad and turnpike west of + Greensburg" (Veech, _The Monongahela of Old_, 62). The railroad is + beyond this precipice. On this point see _Orme Journal_, 351. + + [76] Only a millstone is left to mark the location of the old mill. + + [77] The spring is situated on a lot owned by Mrs. Elizabeth Bennett, + a short distance from the corner of Bennett Avenue and Braddock + Street. Washington, who had been left at Bear Camp, joined Braddock + here. + + [78] _Orme Journal_, 352. Mr. Wall of Harrisburg communicated to me a + copy of a draft of a survey made July 29, 1828, on "Application No. + 2169," showing the location of the road down Crooked Run (Braddock + Run) to the Monongahela and across it to a point a short distance + beyond. This fording of the river is often designated Braddock's Upper + Ford. + + [79] On file in the Department of Interior Affairs is a "Map and + Profile for a slackwater navigation along the Monongahela River from + the Virginia Line to Pittsburg as examined in 1828 by Edward F. Gay, + Engineer," which shows Braddock's Upper Riffle at the mouth of Crooked + Run, and Braddock's Lower Riffle at the mouth of Turtle Creek. + + [80] G. E. F. Gray, chief clerk of the Edgar Thomson Steel Works at + Braddock, Pa., wrote to me under date of December 9, 1908, that their + chief engineer, Sydney Dillon, had already done some preliminary + work toward locating the original banks of Turtle Creek and of the + Monongahela River, and toward fixing the place of Frazer's Cabin and + of the road through Braddock. The steel works are located on a part of + the battlefield, along the river. + + On February 11, 1909, Mr. Dillon communicated to me the results of + his labors based on a study of the ground in connection with the two + maps made by Patrick Mackellar, Braddock's chief engineer (Parkman, + _Montcalm and Wolfe_, 1905, I. op. 214-215), supplemented by the + plan in Winsor's _Narrative and Critical History of America_, V. + 449, and by the Carnegie McCandless Company's property map of 1873. + This is by far the most able and careful study of the battlefield + that has been made in modern times. Mr. Dillon's plans enable one to + follow the course of the road through the battlefield, and to form + an idea of the action with a distinctness that has not been possible + heretofore. In order to comprehend the nature of the fight, however, + and to understand the conditions that made Braddock's defeat almost + inevitable, one must see the field for himself. + + [81] On the two plans of the battlefield drawn by Patrick Mackellar, + see Parkman, _Montcalm and Wolfe_ (1905), I. 229, n. 1. + + [82] See maps, _ibid._, op. 214-215, and in Sargent's _Expedition + against Fort Du Quesne_, op. 219. + + [83] Hyacinth Mary Liénard de Beaujeu. + + [84] If the course of the road as thus indicated be correct, then + the thickest of the fight would have been east of the Pennsylvania + Railroad between Thirteenth and Sixth Streets, the location of + the Hollow Way and of Frazer's Run respectively. The writer was + told that when the Pennsylvania Railroad built its roadbed through + the battlefield it unearthed a great number of human skeletons, a + circumstance which, if true, would seem to confirm his conclusion as + to the ground on which the principal fighting took place. Mr. Dillon + seems to think that the Hollow Way was between Ann and Verona Streets, + and that the farthest point reached by Braddock's party was across the + ravine near Corey Avenue. Another view is that the course of the road + never extended above or east of the Pennsylvania Railroad, but stopped + a few rods short of it in the Robinson burying-ground. + + * * * * * + +Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber: + +Gwynn's Six Mile Houe=> Gwynn's Six Mile House {pg 8 n.} + +National turnpke=> National turnpike {pg 18 n.} + +Crooked run=> Crooked Run {pg 35 n.} + + + + + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Braddock Road, by John Kennedy Lacock + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 44648 *** |