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diff --git a/old/44333.txt b/old/44333.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..fdf8929 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/44333.txt @@ -0,0 +1,7518 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Hesperothen; Notes from the West, Vol. II +(of 2), by W. H. Russell + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Hesperothen; Notes from the West, Vol. II (of 2) + A Record of a Ramble in the United States and Canada in + the Spring and Summer of 1881 + +Author: W. H. Russell + +Release Date: December 1, 2013 [EBook #44333] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HESPEROTHEN, VOLUME II *** + + + + +Produced by Melissa McDaniel and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive) + + + + + + + +Transcriber's Note: + + Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the original document have + been preserved. Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. + + Italic text is denoted by _underscores_. Bold text is denoted by + =equals signs=. + + On page 26 Count Fritz Thumb should possibly be Count FritzThumb. + + On page 120 Indianopolis should possibly be Indianapolis. + + On page 124, General How should possibly be General Howe. + + A triangle symbol in the text is represented as [**triangle] + + + + + HESPEROTHEN; + NOTES FROM THE WEST: + A RECORD OF A + RAMBLE IN THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA + IN THE SPRING AND SUMMER OF 1881. + + BY + W. H. RUSSELL, LL.D. + BARRISTER-AT-LAW. + + IN TWO VOLUMES. + + VOL. II. + + LONDON: + SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, & RIVINGTON, + CROWN BUILDINGS, 188 FLEET STREET. + 1882. + + [All rights reserved.] + + + + + LONDON: + PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, + STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING CROSS. + + + + +CONTENTS OF VOL. II. + + + CHAPTER I. + + ARIZONA. + + Deming--The Mirage--Ruined Cities--American + Explorers--Self-Tormentors--Animals and + Plants--Yuma--California--Los Angeles--Santa Monica--The + Pacific Page 1 + + + CHAPTER II. + + THE YOSEMITE VALLEY. + + A new Land of Goshen--A Jehu indeed--The Drive to Clarke's--A + Mountain Hostelry--Grizzlies--Fascination Point--The + Merced--Yosemite Fall--A Salute--Mountain Airs--The Mirror + Lake--"See that Rattle?"--A Philosophic Barber 19 + + + CHAPTER III. + + SAN FRANCISCO. + + The Palace Hotel--General McDowell--Palo-Alto--The + "Hoodlums"--The real Sir Roger--Exiles in the Far West--The + Chinese Population--For and Against them--The Sand Lot--Fast + Trotters--The Sea-Lions--The Diamond Palace--The Coloured + Population--"Eastward Ho!" 44 + + + CHAPTER IV. + + CALIFORNIA TO COLORADO. + + Los Angeles--Mud-geysers--"Billy the Kid"--General + Fremont--Manitou, the Garden of the Gods--Desperadoes--Bob + Ingersoll--Denver City--Leadville--Grand Canyon 73 + + + CHAPTER V. + + KANSAS TO ST. LOUIS. + + Liquor Law--Kansas Academy of Science--An Incident of + Travel--A Parting Symposium--Life in the Cars--St. Louis to + New York 107 + + + CHAPTER VI. + + NEW YORK--NEWPORT--DEPARTURE. + + Coney Island--Newport--Bass-fishing--Habit of + Spitting--Brighton Beach--Newport Coaching--Extra + Ecclesiam--Victories of American Horses--Newport + Avenues--Return to New York--Our Last Day in America 122 + + + CHAPTER VII. + + RETURN TO EUROPE. + + The "_City of Berlin_"--The Inman Line--The Service at Roche's + Point--Queenstown Discomforts--A sorry Welcome Home 140 + + + CHAPTER VIII. + + SOME GENERAL REFLECTIONS. + + Education--Free Schools--Influence of Money in + Politics--Corruption in Public Life--Crime on the Western + Borders--The Great Rebellion--Anniversaries--Great Courtesy to + Strangers--Manners and Customs 151 + + + CHAPTER IX. + + THE RED MAN AND HIS DESTINY. + + Captain Pratt--Carlisle Barracks--An Indian Bowman--The Indian + Question--The Pupils' Gossip--The "School News"--Indian + Visitors--The White Mother--The India Office--White and + Red--Quo Quousque?--Indian Title Deeds--The Reservations--The + Indian Agencies--Missionary Efforts--The Red Man and the Maori + 186 + + + + +HESPEROTHEN. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +ARIZONA. + + Deming--The Mirage--Ruined Cities--American + Explorers--Self-Tormentors--Animals and + Plants--Yuma--California--Los Angeles--Santa Monica--The + Pacific. + + +_May 30th._--At an hour as to which controversy might arise, owing to +the changes of time to which we have been subjected, the train, which +had pulled up but seldom during the night, stopped at Deming Junction, +where the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railroad "connects" with +the Southern Pacific, on which our cars were to be "hauled" to San +Francisco. Jefferson time and San Francisco time differ two hours, so +at one end of the station we scored 6 A.M., and at the other 8 A.M. +The sooner one gets away from Deming in any direction the better. A +year ago--as is usually the case hereabouts--there was not a trace of +a town on the dry ugly plain covered with prickly acacias and "Spanish +bayonets"; now Deming flourishes in gaming and drinking saloons, +express offices, and all the horrors of "enterprise" in the West. The +look-out revealed a few tents, wooden shanties, a station, at which +workmen were running up a frame-house, ground littered with preserved +provision tins, broken crockery, adobes and refuse of all sorts. At +the door of one hut, swarming with flies, swung half a carcase of beef; +two women were washing, pale-faced, but not uncheerful creatures, who +had not a good opinion of Deming and its population. "They carry out a +dead man a day, or used to," said one informant. The lady washerwomen +did not quite corroborate the figure; but, remarked the chattier +of the two, "there was a considerable shewtin' about last night!" +To the observation of one of the party that he was "going to have a +look about," the other lady made reply, "I guess if you dew it will +be 'hands up' for ten cents with you." On the platform was a United +States marshal, with a revolver stuck in his belt, but his duties were +considered to be punitive rather than preventive. Here Mr. Chase and +Mr. Hawley left us to return to Topeka. At the abschiednehmen Sir H. +Green was affected by a proof of interest in his welfare of a touching +character and very full of local colour; one of our friends beckoned +to him, took him aside, and pulling out a revolver ("It is hands up!" +thought Sir Henry), fully loaded, pressed it on his acceptance in the +kindest manner as a useful _compagnon de voyage_. As we were not to +stay at Deming, the self-sacrifice was not consummated. + +The regular train having come up, our special was tacked on to it, and +in an hour the locomotive puffed out of the depot, and sped westerly +on its way at the rate of twenty miles an hour, across a plain some +fifteen miles broad, bordered by jagged, irregular mountain ranges +north and south, as dry as a bone--so dry that water for the engine +has to be brought to the stations in tanks. A scanty growth of what +looked like camel grass, interspersed euphorbias and cactuses of great +height, was all that met the eye. We are approaching the great basin of +Arizona, and are warned that much dust and great heat must be expected, +and that the "scenery" does not improve in point of variety or verdure, +both of which are nearly at zero. A vigorous, well-directed campaign +against the flies in the saloon gave us comparative repose; then the +blinds being pulled down, and the thermometer reduced to 83 deg., +society settled itself to study, with results indicated presently by +a gentle _susurrus_ on the sofas. A sudden alarm, "Look at the deer!" +There sure enough was a herd of antelopes flying over the scrub towards +the horizon, which flickered about in the heat in a mirage of islands +and uplifted mountain ends--so vanished. + +After passing Lordsburgh, a desolate spot in the desert, there appeared +a beautiful mirage. The sand became a sheet of water, waveless and +mirror-like, and in it we saw reflected in trenchant outline the +mountain range beyond. "It must be water! it is water!" exclaimed an +unbelieving director. And, lo! as he spoke the "dust devils" rose and +danced along the face of the sea; in another minute the vision was +gone; the dazzling sand, white, blank and dull, mocked our senses. +This was near Stein's Pass, up which the train of nine carriages +was climbing--"the heaviest train that has gone over yet," said the +triumphant conductor. "But we thought we'd try it." Each waggon weighed +30 tons. The Pass is three miles long, and we were working at a grade +of 74 feet with a 19-inch cylinder engine. + +Between Pyramid Station and San Simon (_stant nomina umbrarum_--the +names of mere shadows of stations) the western border of New Mexico +is crossed, and we enter the great Territory of Arizona, which lies +between the Rocky Mountains and the Sierra Nevada. + +It is bounded by New Mexico on the east, by Mexico on the south, by +Utah and Nevada on the north and north-west, and by California in +continuation of the western boundary. It is as large as New York, +Pennsylvania, Maryland, New Jersey, and Delaware together. Whom it +belonged to first, so far as occupation constitutes possession, I +know not; but the Spaniards owned and neglected it for more than +three centuries before the Americans possessed it. In 1848 and 1853 +the regions now forming Arizona, New Mexico, Colorado, Utah, and +Nevada were ceded by the descendants of the Spanish conquerors to +the conquering Anglo-American. It would need weeks of assiduous +travel to explore the portion of Arizona where the most interesting +ruins in America, the cities of the Zoltecs or the Aztecs--for the +experts differ respecting their origin--are to be found. The weight +of authority and of recent investigation leads one to believe that the +Aztecs were not the builders of these ruined cities. Humboldt, indeed, +believed that they were; but, as Mr. Hinton remarks, in his capital +little handbook, which I recommend to prospectors, emigrants, tourists, +and travellers, "to suppose such an utter abandonment of settled +habitations, it will be necessary to suppose some strange impelling +reasons, either in climate or other causes, that must have amounted +to a catastrophe. An hypothesis which would leave a whole race able +to conquer an empire, and to preserve power enough to abandon without +destruction their old homes, implies conditions and forces without +a known historical parallel." The conclusion that many native cities +were flourishing when the Spaniards arrived in America may, perhaps, be +questioned. There is a distinctive character about them, differing from +that of the Mississippi mounds, the Central American pyramids, or the +ruined cities of Yucatan. + +The site of one of these cities was pointed out to us from the +train, and that was all we saw of them. But I heard so much about +the mysterious remains that I was induced to procure Mr. Bancroft's +remarkable essay on the native races of the Pacific Coast. Mr. Bancroft +believes that the Pueblos and other Indians, in a state of civilisation +which they subsequently lost, were the earliest inhabitants of these +countries and the builders of the cities; that the Apaches came down +upon them, and their work being then aided by the Spaniards, this +original agricultural people were swept off the face of the earth. +But where the Apaches came from the American ethnologists have not, +I believe, determined. For hundreds of miles these ruins cover the +country--stone houses, ancient watch-towers, and adobe buildings, +around which are quantities of stone implements, masses of crockery and +pottery. In some places there are structures of wood and stone, without +iron, the masonry consisting of thin plates of sandstone dressed on the +edges, and laid in coarse mortar nearly as hard as the stone itself. + +The explorers who have discovered the most interesting cities in +Arizona and elsewhere were officers of the United States army. They +have been the true pioneers of American civilisation in the West, and +it is most creditable to them that they have been able to furnish so +much scientific and antiquarian observation in the execution of their +arduous and often painful duty in Indian warfare. There is no cold +shade cast upon the labours of officers who desire to make a little +reputation for themselves by contributions to scientific publications, +and by papers on natural history and the like in periodical +publications or in the daily press. + +There is, as might be expected from its position, a very high +temperature in Arizona. This lasts from the middle of June to the first +of October. During the best part of summer exertion of any kind is +impossible. Metal objects cannot be handled without producing blisters; +rain scarcely ever falls; and, to keep up the drain of constant +evaporation, a man must drink a gallon or two gallons of water a day. +Mr. Ross Brown, speaking of the summer, declares that "everything +dries. Waggons dry; men dry; chickens dry. There is no juice left in +anything, living or dead, by the close of summer. Officers and soldiers +creak as they walk; chickens hatched at the season come out of the +shell ready cooked. Bacon is eaten with a spoon, and butter must stand +in the sun an hour before the flies become dry enough for use. The +Indians sit in the river with fresh mud on their heads, and, by dint of +constant dipping and sprinkling, manage to keep from roasting, though +they usually come out parboiled." But, although it is recorded that a +party encamped on a narrow canyon where the temperature was 120 degrees, +there was no sunstroke. And in that respect the climate differs from +that on the eastern coast, where, especially this very summer, a great +number of deaths were caused by _coup de soleil_. People, with the +thermometer marking 94 degrees, talk of its being agreeably cold. An +exceedingly interesting fact, if it be one, connected with residence in +this part of the world is the wholesome effect of complete abstinence. +Death from want of water was by no means infrequent in the old days +before so many wells were dug; but it only occurs when there is a good +deal of humidity in the air. Although alcoholic drinks and tobacco have +an injurious effect, there is a large consumption of both at all the +stations and at the mines. + +As in the Orange River Free State, where probably the conditions of +temperature are not very dissimilar, pulmonary complaints are cured, so +a residence in Arizona, it is said, stops consumption; and there are +authentic statements that people who arrived in a rapid decline have +experienced almost immediate relief of the principal symptoms, and have +been finally cured. Governor Safford, in an official letter, states +that his lungs were a good deal diseased, and that he was suffering +with a severe cough when he reached Arizona, and that in six months his +cough left him. He is satisfied the warm, dry atmosphere acted like a +healing balm to diseased lungs, and that, the pores being kept open, +the impurities which attack weak organs escape through the skin. Dr. +Loryea, of San Francisco, and Dr. Sawyer aver that Arizona is nature's +Turkish bath, and that Yuma, that evil-looking place, contains the +fountains of health. + +Of such vast regions a small acquaintance acquired by passing rapidly +twice over a line of railway does not entitle one to speak; but, if +what we read and heard of Arizona be true, there is within its limits +enormous mineral and agricultural wealth. There are carboniferous +basins of great extent and richness. The mountains teem with ore. +Silver and gold, copper pyrites, zinc, and lead are to be found over +a great range, the extent of which is as yet imperfectly known. There +are sulphates of nearly all the metals; metallic oxides, chlorides, +carbonates, nitrates; agates, amethysts, garnets, and other precious +stones. People there are who believe that the diamond, the emerald, and +the ruby will turn up in due time. In fact, if one were to be guided +by the accounts in the papers or the guide-books, he would think that +a sure way of making an immediate fortune would be to settle down on +any hillside in this favourite land. Nevertheless, what I saw out of my +window gave me reason to suppose that there was poverty in Arizona as +well as in the old country. Nor did the buildings which I saw by the +way at the sparse stations and infrequent towns give an idea that the +in-dwellers were well-to-do in the world. The adobe, or burnt brick, +which is a common material in lieu of better, has always a ruinous +appearance. The houses built of it yesterday seem tumbling to pieces +from the influences of old age. + +We take no note of time save by its relation to constant motion, and +to the "programme"--a Procrustean bed on which we have voluntarily +placed our tortured limbs. Sometimes in the hours of the night, which +could not be called still because of the incessant pealing, rattling, +and thundering of the train, I thought of the wonderful ways of man +with himself in such affairs as we were now engaged in. There is a play +of Terence which was a trouble to me in my youth, so long ago that I +remember very little more of it than the dismal and elongated name; +but Mr. "Heautontimorumenos" never needlessly bound himself up in a +programme and delivered his life over to a time-table! It is likely +enough, seeing what sort of man he was, that he would have adopted +that course had he lived in these days. I admit that programmes are +necessary when your movements regulate, or have to be regulated by, +those of other people; and that was the case in some measure with +us, but the solicitude it occasioned the worthy and valued friends, +whose brows I perceived becoming more puckered, and whose faces and +spirits were heavy with cares connected with the programme, to come up +to time, was beyond belief, and I vowed if ever I had my own way with +the ordering of a party I would have no programme at all. And plot and +calculate as you will, a gale of wind, or a heated axle, or a broken +bridge, or a flood, upsets everything, and your schemes gang aglee +utterly! It was admirable to see how we were working out the destiny +we had made manifest for ourselves in advance so long ago, but the task +was not easy. What curious sounds, by the way, our train made at night! +One could now and then compose words to the tune of the wheels, and +the regular rhythm forced one at times to hum the words of a song, of +which the train seemed to hammer out the music. It seemed so strange to +be turning into bed night after night, and waking up to pass the same +life day after day, like a log of wood carried on by an interminable, +irresistible torrent. + +Provided with books and newspapers, and friends to converse with, as +well as with sights to see, we had, however, no reason to complain +that time hung heavy on our hands as the train sped on. The books +were very utilitarian, it is true--Reports of Chambers of Commerce, +statistics and papers connected with railway and commercial enterprise +and the like. But our directors took to that literature with avidity, +and aided by maps and tables, copiously furnished to them, seemed +bent on passing with honours in a competitive examination anent the +American railway system. There were always, close at hand in the cars, +competent authorities to answer questions, or able champions to engage +in controversy, and as I heard all the subtle contentions, which I did +not understand, concerning signalling and baggage checking, gauges and +engines, curves and gradients, freights and fares, I was set to think +what the field had been in which all the ingenuity and talent displayed +in dealing with such topics were exercised in pre-railway days. These +discussions were mostly connected with the consideration of profits +and percentages, and that was a neutral ground on which the combatants +manoeuvred their facts and figures as in a natural "_schauplatz_". +There were times when such investigations ran down like a clock, +and no one wound them up again for a few hours, and then my friends +digested the remains they found on the field of battle and strengthened +themselves for friendly jousting. + +Not very long ago there would have been exceedingly good sporting in +many parts of Arizona. Grizzly bears, common and black bears; pumas, +mountain sheep, jaguars, ocelots, opossums, panthers, wolves, and +lynxes are largely distributed over the hill ranges. There are also +hares and rabbits and many smaller animals. Wild turkeys have much +diminished of late years; but there is a variety of birds, some of +them excellent for the spit. The chase, however, is attended with some +danger, unless one is very well booted and looks out where he treads, +as rattle-snakes abound, and are of exceeding virulence, the black +species being especially deadly. There are horned toads, but these are +harmless. + +For the botanist Arizona is an almost inexhaustible field of +delight. Any one who likes to read of vegetable wonders, or of an +extraordinarily varied flora, cannot do better than get Dr. Loryea's +work, or read 'New Mexico,' by Elias Brevoort. The growth which struck +us most was that of the extraordinary cactus called the candelabra +or Sahuaro. It is worth while going so far as the railway will take +one to see these plants sticking up on the sides of a rock without a +trace of verdure or moisture, rising to the height of 40 or 50 feet, +and throwing out enormous arms at the most grotesque angles, each +varying from the other in shape, the number of its arms, and in the +manner in which they are disposed. This giant cactus is covered with +prickles, and is of a light green colour. It is said that in the old +days the Apache Indians not unfrequently made use of them as handy +means of torture, and nailed their victims to a cactus previous to +setting fire to it. The body of the plant is resinous, and it can +be easily converted into a bonfire. Here and there we saw some with +traces of pale yellow flowers. When these are gone there is a fruit, +which makes an excellent preserve, or can be boiled into sugar. Then +there are prickly pears in great quantities; and there is a "negro-head +cactus," with a round top covered with sharp spines, which furnished +the Mexicans with fish-hooks. "There is a soul of beauty in things +evil." If a thirsty traveller coming upon one of these plants kindles +a fire around it, the juices of its body are gradually concentrated +into a central cavity, where they only wait incision to be liberated +in the form of a pleasant drink, half a gallon or more in quantity. +The appliances for getting a drink out of most of these roots are +described at length in various books of travel; but however useful they +may have been at the time, the activity of the Atchison, Topeka and +Santa Fe Railway will in all probability exempt travellers in future +from any necessity to avail themselves of these ingenious devices. +Trees flourish in spite of the heat and want of water. As various as +the trees are the human inhabitants, and one of the greatest marvels +connected with them, perhaps, is the extraordinary variety of dialects +amongst people of the same race, who lived in the same country long +before the white man came to trouble them. They are decreasing, of +course, in numbers; but in some of the reservations they seem to +have arrested downward progress, and to have taken to some form of +agricultural labour. At present Arizona is the happy hunting-ground +of the unfortunate red man. There is, I am assured, no disposition on +the part of the whites to intrude upon the reservations of the various +tribes. I did not hear of any one who had come in from the East to +settle with the view of making his fortune by farming; but miners have +flooded the canyons, and climbed the mountain-tops; and now they have +settled down into a steady way of life without any big "booms," as the +Americans say, but with prospects of pretty certain returns for their +labour. + +All night we travelled on, and when the morning came, we were still +traversing the desert, still passing through one of the most sterile +wastes on the face of the earth, where, however, by strange contrasts +of nature--or is it strange?--there were in the mountains and in the +ravines rich ores to tempt the cupidity and enterprize of man. We are +continually reminded of similar wastes in India and in Africa; but no +one, as far as I know, has yet discovered any mineral wealth in the +north-western deserts of our Indian Empire. And although Captain Burton +and others have fancied they have come across an El Dorado in Southern +Egypt, and Ibrahim Pasha had such faith in the existence of gold in +those regions that he led forth an expedition to perish there, there +is no such fortune in store for the adventurous miner as awaits him in +Arizona, Colorado, and California. + +_June 1st._--Everyone who has entered Arizona, or left it--and let us +hope he went back all the better for his visit--will recollect Yuma for +ever. + +Yuma is on the Colorado, which divides California from Arizona. +The muddy waters of the river rush with immense velocity past the +buttresses of the fine bridge, with a draw for steamers, that spans +it. The town consists apparently of adobe houses, and these not very +regularly built. I could not visit the main street for lack of time, +but the offshoots within eyeshot of us were not tempting. All we +could see from the railway windows were flat-roofed adobe houses, some +squalid Indians nearly naked, the buildings, with the Stars and Stripes +over them, of the United States post on the left bank, and a few wooden +sheds. It is said to be one of the hottest places in the world, and +certainly looked dry and dusty. They say that a soldier who died there +and went to an unmentionable place, returned in the spirit to beg for +a blanket, as he felt so cold! + +More happily constituted travellers than most of us have seen something +pleasing in the aspect of the country roundabout, and have been moved +to much admiration by the various tints of the hills in the distance, +and by the rocks which constitute the near limits of the valley through +which the river passes. In the old days, when the stage-coaches offered +the only means of travelling through the district, there might have +been a good deal to see along the road; but the rail generally avoids +sights, and where nature is at its best, the engineer strikes deep down +and burrows if he can. The colours of the hills are bright and varied; +the lava rocks are of many shades, and the sun, piercing through strata +of pure air, illuminates them with great vividness and force; but after +a time the eye tires of the uniform hues of the landscape. For a few +miles the rail runs close to the river, then plunges into the most +remorseless, cruel waste of sand and rock, spread out up to the foot of +the rugged hills of the Barnardino Range, I ever beheld--an abomination +of desolation compared with which the Libyan Desert or the plains of +Scinde were the Garden of the Hesperides. I cannot describe, nor could +I at any time hope to succeed in giving an adequate conception of this +dreadful wilderness. For 107 miles west there is not a drop of water to +be found; the stations are dependent on the railway for their supplies. +But Nature, as if to take away the reproach of permitting such a vast +blotch on her fair face, kindly threw in Fata Morgana. We saw with +delight widespread lakes with fairy islands in the midst; placid seas +washing the base of the distant hills. This baked and dreary expanse +extends nearly to San Gorgonio. We were spared the sandstorms which are +so dreadful, nor did we experience inconvenience from the dust. The +traveller, who has begun to despair of ever seeing anything greener +than giant cacti and the adamantine vegetation which dispenses with +water, is agreeably surprised as he approaches Los Angeles. If he +be as fortunate as we were in having such friends as Colonel Baker +and his wife to take charge of him, he will be amply repaid for far +greater discomforts than any he experienced in the Colorado desert. +From Los Angeles there is a railway to Santa Monica, seventeen miles +distant, which belongs to Colonel Baker; and I would advise every one +who can, either to spare or make the time for a diversion to that +most delightful spot. Judge of the pleasure we felt when, after a +picturesque run through orange groves, vineyards, and fields of corn +and barley, we gazed on the waters of the Pacific--"[Greek: thalatta! +thalatta!]" What a glorious scene! the broad bay lighted by the rays +of the declining sun; the blue waves rolling on in solemn march, +and breaking in long lines of foam on the dazzling sand, and nearer +still the gardens and trees of the Pacific Biarritz which was about +to welcome us! Our palace-car and its attendant carriages shot into a +siding close to the beach. In a few minutes "every man Jack" was off to +the bathing establishment to conform to the regulations ere we plunged +into the sea. It is an orthodox bathing-place of the highest order. The +Baths are extensive, and provided with every convenience and comfort +for ladies and invalids; hot and cold, salt water and fresh, for those +who do not like to trust themselves to the sea. A rope extended seaward +to hold on by was needful, for the surf was heavy and the undertow +strong. The water was delicious. Generally there is less sea on, and it +is never too hot or too cold for bathing. Next morning we had another +bath in a still rougher Pacific. The Duke and some of the party were +driven about the country by Colonel and Mrs. Baker, and at 3 P.M., to +our sorrow, we left the most lovable little spot of all we have seen +on this continent. Good fortune be in store for Santa Monica! At Los +Angeles, where carriages were waiting, we drove through the streets and +suburbs, which enabled us to appreciate the reasons which induced the +Spanish founders to give the city its name. In the evening we continued +our journey, passing in the dark over the feat of engineering called +the Loop. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +THE YOSEMITE VALLEY. + + A new Land of Goshen--A Jehu indeed--The Drive to Clarke's--A + Mountain Hostelry--Grizzlies--Fascination Point--The + Merced--Yosemite Fall--A Salute--Mountain Airs--The Mirror + Lake--"See that Rattle?"--A Philosophic Barber. + + +_June 2nd._--It is astonishing how soon one gets accustomed to the +rattle and rumble of the rail, and sleeps all the night through after +a time, waking up only when a train stops at a station, just as a +miller is roused by the cessation of the clock of the mill-wheel. We +keep good hours, and so at 4.30 this morning I was looking out of the +window at a sea of blue mountain ridges upon the west, which looked +like the waves of the ocean, so varied in the serrated edges was the +line of stony waves which seemed as if they were about to sweep down +over the great stretch of prairie. We were passing through a new land +of Goshen, at least that was the name which I detected on the station +board, indicating a junction with another line, and early as was the +hour the door of the hospitable restaurant was open, and gentlemen +in front were to be seen drawing their hands across their lips as if +they had been taking a refresher in the early morning. Close at hand +the country was perfectly flat, covered with glorious crops nearly +ripe for the sickle, and indeed cut and stacked in some places. Water +appeared abundant; a river flowing west was visible at intervals, its +course marked by a line of trees. Large black cranes stalked about in +the meadow-like fields, and hares sat up on end to take a look at the +train. The paucity of human beings, except at the rare stations, was +remarkable; only when I say "rare," perhaps I am scarcely justified, +as there were little wooden huts at intervals perhaps of ten or twelve +miles, where a saloon announced itself, and a possible ticket-office. + +On the east of the plain through which the line runs, the peaks of +the Sierra Nevada were visible, but the journey was rather monotonous +all the same, and we were glad when our train halted at Madera, about +ninety miles from Goshen, where we were to get out and start on our +expedition to the Yosemite Valley. Especial arrangements had been +made for our conveyance, but I almost doubt now whether it would not +have been better for us to have taken the ordinary carriage which +leaves Madera every day, except Monday, for the Yosemite Valley, at +7.45, arriving at Clarke's or Bruce's in somewhat less than twelve +hours, so as to bring daylight with it to the halting-place; a very +desirable thing, as we soon found out. It was 8 o'clock before our +party started from Madera, in two Kendal carriages with four horses +each. In one was the Duke, Lady Green, Mr. Stephen, and myself, with +Crockett on the box; in another were Sir Henry Green, Mr. Wright, Major +Anderson, and Mr. Jerome. Our driver was a man with the impossible +name of MacLenathan, a resolute, dry, taciturn man, with a good face, +seamed with the exposure to sun and rain of many years on the box. +But he told us he had deserted it lately, and had taken to the work +of livery stable keeper, only coming out on this occasion as driver to +do honour to the Duke. As it turned out, it was well his right and his +left hand had not lost their cunning. The driver of the other carriage +was a noted character, rejoicing in the name of "Buffalo Bill," and +later on we had reason to feel very thankful to him also for the +possession of great pluck and nerve. For some ten or twelve miles the +route, which consists of mere wheel tracks over the prairie, runs over +moderately undulating land. On the right there is a shoot or _flume_ +for carrying down timber from the upper part of the mountain ridge +fifty miles away. The dust was troublesome, and the rapid motion of +the four horses scarcely saved us from the roasting sun. The scenery +was not interesting; indeed, the great object of attraction was the +little Californian quail with his pretty crest, running across through +the grass or jumping up upon a stump to have a look at the travellers. +Stage stables were far apart, but the speed was fair, and it was +astonishing to see the excellent condition in which the horses were +at the end of their long canter, and what capital steeds were taken +out of the stalls, in which they were feeding on barley-straw, to +be put into the traces. I think the average length of the stages was +about twelve miles. We lost about an hour at a little mining village +where we halted for dinner, a place called Coarse Gold, as well as +I recollect, consisting of the usual buildings, a few shanties, the +store, the hotel, far better than might have been expected, and a sort +of wigwam or one-storeyed house, in front of which were assembled a +number of "Digger Indians," degraded specimens of a degraded tribe. +They sat looking at the new arrivals in the most apathetic manner, +just as they might regard so many flies. The men were dressed in a +compromise of old Indian attire, leather leggings and deerskin jackets, +with European clothing, caps, bad hats and trousers, and old boots, +the women swathed ungracefully in what seemed to be pieces of blanket, +their legs encased in folds of dirty cotton. One of these Diggers was +very slightly dressed, and as it is intensely cold in the winter, we +asked him whether he did not feel the effect of the frost and snow. +He knew a little English, and made the most of it. "When your body is +covered you do not feel the cold," he said; "But your face is always +uncovered, and yet you do not feel the cold there. An Indian's body is +all face." And that was all the explanation he would vouchsafe to us. +Somehow or another, what with delays at the stations, possibly caused +by our being out of the regular running, and being an interpolation on +the ordinary course of travel, and possibly owing to our reduced speed, +for the carriages with four horses did not, it seems, go as fast as +the public conveyance with six, it was getting dark as we approached +the line of wooded hills, in a valley in which, many miles away, lay +our halting-place for the night. The result of our delay in starting, +concerning which the driver had been severe from time to time, was +startlingly manifest as the coaches mounted the steep ascents of one of +the most tortuous roads in the world. The spurs of the hills come down +very sharply to the valley, and the road is carried round by a series +of very severe gradients following the contour of the mountain-chain, +so that at one time there is a deep gorge on your left, and then, as +the road leaves that spur with the valley on that side and crosses to +another spur, there is a great descent on the right, so that you are +continually passing along by a series of precipices, to which, in our +case, the fast gathering gloom imparted additional horror. Through the +sighing of the wind in the trees aloft came the roar of the torrents +down below. The drivers went along at a good steady canter, and from +time to time, as we came round a sharp curve, I dare say the thought +was in every one's mind, what would happen if one of the leaders +fell, or if the driver slipped his hand in gathering up the reins to +go round the corner. The scenery became more wild and formidable, so +to speak, at every fresh turn. The colossal trees, which challenged +admiration in the daytime, closed up in greater volume, darkening the +narrow road completely, so that in an hour after entering upon the +mountain-range it became as black as pitch. The lamps of Buffalo Bill +in the leading carriage were some guide to our driver. He had none, +and it was with anxiety, renewed every ten minutes or so, that we saw +the lights in front describe a graceful curve, which showed that they +were passing by one of the dips or cuts of the road. It needed skill +and judgment for MacLenathan to conduct the carriage, because if he +drove too close to that in front of us, the clouds of dust obscured +the view, and if he dropped too far behind he lost the benefit of the +lights. By enormous trunks of trees, by piles of timber, through deep +cuttings in the rock, plashing over watercourses, descending swiftly +into river-beds, and splashing through the fords over boulders, then +climbing up steep hillsides, on and on, it seemed as though the night +would never come to an end, and we inwardly, and audibly too, expressed +our regret that we had not started a little earlier; but still there +was an almost pleasurable excitement in holding on as we swept round +one of these terrible gorges, and tried to look down into the gulf +beneath. That last stage seemed interminable, but towards 9 o'clock at +night the driver of the coach in front announced that we were getting +"near at last"; and lucky it was, for his lights were giving out. "It +is just as well that they did not," said our driver, "because it would +be bad for you." "Why?" "Well," he said, "you would just have to get +out and walk! I would not undertake to drive any one in the dark along +such a road as this." Presently we heard the noise of rushing water, +and gained the bank of a stream flowing with swiftness over a shingle +bed. This we crossed, and in half an hour more, through the dark belt +of trees in front, lights were discerned, and, crossing another stream +and a bridge, our wearied horses were pulled up in front of the hotel, +a large wooden building, on the steps of which were the landlord and +his staff, and most of the inmates turned out to greet and inspect +the travellers who had been long expected. "It is a bad country to go +driving about in the dark," said Mr. Bruce, the landlord, a sentiment +in which we thoroughly agreed. There was a supper in the common +room, to which, albeit the fare was primitive enough, we did ample +justice. Travellers have complained of the charges along the road, but, +considering the distance which all articles have to be carried to the +Valley, the heavy duties, and the shortness of the season, I do not +think that any one with experience of Swiss inns would complain much; +and if the traveller desires to drink claret, he must not be astonished +if he pays eight or nine shillings a bottle for it. The ordinary fare, +at hotel prices, is quite good enough for hungry people, and eggs, +milk, and bread are abundant, and not dear. The bedrooms, sufficiently +simple in all their appointments, are good enough to be welcome to +tired people, for there is a fair bed to lie upon, and the sheets, as +far as our experience went, were clean and fresh. Nor were the insect +horrors, of which we may have some knowledge in parts of Europe, to be +dreaded, not even mosquitoes at this time of year. + +Soon after dawn a thunderstorm broke over the valley, hail and torrents +of rain, and the landlord congratulated us upon the cooling effect +it would have on the air, and on the absence of dust, which is rather +troublesome at times. It was necessary to make an early start in the +morning, for it is a long journey to the Yosemite. For some years past +the Valley has become a kind of American Chamouni, and if Americans +swarm over Europe in search of the sublime and beautiful, they cannot +be accused of neglecting altogether their own country. The first thing +I saw, on walking out on the verandah of the hotel, was the stage-coach +and six horses, with eight ladies and nine gentlemen, loading up for +the Valley. They had arrived late the night before, a little in advance +of us, and yet the ladies, bravely attired for the road, were all in +their place in the _char a bancs_ long before 7. Travellers frequently +stay at Bruce's, and our host promises good sport to any one who will +make it his headquarters; but I cannot speak with any confidence on +that point myself; still I should think it a very pleasant quarter for +a man who had nothing else to do, and who had an aptitude for climbing, +to go about looking out big game. We heard talk of pheasants, but +saw none: the bird which is called by that name not being entitled +to it, according to ornithologists. In front of the hotel was laid +out the skin of a cinnamon bear, which had been shot by an Austrian +gentleman--"Count Fritz Thumb," the landlord called him--a few days +previously, and which was to be sent after him as a trophy of his +skill. "But," says Boniface, "it was not he shot him at all; it was 'is +old Injun hunter." Grizzlies, he said, were rare, but they were to be +found if you went up high enough, and as he spoke he pointed up to the +mountains towering away in the distance in grand Alpine proportions. +Deer were common enough, and there were some tame specimens of the +ordinary black deer running about in the enclosure. We had an early +start, but not quite so early as the Americans; and it was wonderful +how well our four hardy horses did the first stage, six and twenty +miles, including some very sharp ascents from the Hotel. + +From time to time we got out and walked up the sharp bits, diverging +to the right or left to gather the lovely flowers which grew on +the roadside, or halting to admire the giant trees which clothed +the mountain ridges. Pitiable ignorance! not to know the names of +the plants or shrubs or wonderful bunches of blossoms, among which +fluttered the most magnificently coloured butterflies. Woodpeckers +of many different species uttered their quaint notes in jerky flight +from tree to tree, or peered at the travellers from the shelter of +the branches. Firs, pines, and spruces of enormous size, and trees +to me unknown, formed a dense forest on each side of the road; but +now and then we caught glimpses of the stupendous ranges of the alps +beyond. It was lamentable to see the waste and wreck wrought in this +wondrous wealth of timber--reckless, wicked waste. Charred trunks +stood with leafless arms withered and black, or lay prone among the +ferns in myriads. This was, we were told, the work of shepherds, who +think nothing of setting fire to one of the finest trees in the world +to warm themselves for an hour, and are delighted with a conflagration +which may lay a hillside in ashes. And the Indians too are held to +have their share in the destruction. There was enough of timber wasted +and destroyed mile after mile to build a city. The nemesis must come; +already the alarm has been sounded, and the State authorities here and +elsewhere are trying to prevent the mischief. I have often had occasion +to regret my ignorance of botany _inter alia_; but never did I feel it +more than when I was walking up the road, on each side of which was a +carpet of flowers, a maze of shrubs and plants--dense brushwood--to not +one of which could I give a name. We arrived at the Halfway House at +12.35 as much pleased as the horses which brought us there so well at +the respite, for it was an awful "pull up," and the coachman did his +work at high pressure. In the course of our pilgrimage we had found a +very pleasant _divertissement_. The Major, Mr. White, and Mr. Jerome +had excellent voices, and from time to time they burst into song, +giving with great effect the quaint negro melodies, which are now made +familiar to us in London, from a very large _repertoire_; and so the +afternoon passed in quiet enjoyment as we climbed the hills on foot or +in the carriages--snatches of talk, exclamations of wonder and delight, +and outbursts of the 'Golden Slipper,' 'O! that 'Possum,' 'The Ark,' +'John Brown,' 'Tramp, Tramp,' and other choruses. + +It was near 4 o'clock when the driver, who had been silent for some +time, looking round at us occasionally as one who would say, "Wait a +little till I surprise you," suddenly pulling up, said, "Now, here you +are. This is Fascination Point! Won't you get down a bit?" And, lo! +there indeed lay before us a scene of indescribable grandeur. I know +nothing like the effect produced by Yosemite Valley when seen for the +first time from this point. It has a characteristic which no other +similar view I am acquainted with possesses. You take in at one glance +stupendous mountain-ranges, all but perpendicular, beyond which you see +the snowy crests of the great Sierra, the profound valley between them, +a long vista of extraordinary magnificence, of cascades and precipitous +waterfalls, and far down below a silvery river rushing through a +forest composed of the noblest trees in the world, with patches of +emerald-green sward and bright meadows. + +I see that by a slip of the pen I have miscalled the place from which +we got our first view of the wondrous scene. But I have a right to +change the name for my own use. What the driver said was "Inspiration +Point." I prefer my mistake, for the view inspires you with no feeling +save that of wonder and delight. These sublime scenes appear to be +beyond the reach of poetry. Niagara and the Yosemite have not yet +found a laureate. The peculiar and unique feature of the valley seems +to me to be the height and boldness of the cliffs which spring out +from the mountain-sides like sentinels to watch and ward over the +secrets of the gorge; next to that is the number and height of the +waterfalls; but it is only by degrees and by comparison that the mind +takes in the fact that the cliffs are not hundreds, but thousands +of feet high--that these bright, flashing, fleecy cataracts fall for +thousands of feet--that the rent which has been torn in the heart of +the mountains, till it is closed by the awful granite portals beyond +which no mortal may pass, extends for miles. I thought as I gazed +that it were pity to descend, lest a nearer view might destroy the +effect of that _coup d'oeil_; but the driver had regulated the period +for rapture. He whipped us up to our places by word of mouth, and +the carriages renewed their course, now striking by bold zigzags down +into the valley for our destination, which was still six miles away. I +shall not attempt to describe my own feelings, far less can I pretend +to tell what others, probably far more susceptible of the beauty and +grandeur of what we beheld than I am, may have felt at the succession +of the awe-inspiring revelations of the tremendous grandeur of the +Valley which came upon us. What is the use of rolling off a catalogue +of names and figures?--even the brush of the painter, charged with +the truest colours and guided by the finest hand and eye, could never +do justice--that is, could never give a just idea of these cliffs and +waterfalls. "El Capitan! Oh, that's the name, is it? Three thousand +three hundred feet high!" And then you try to take in what that means. +"And it's 3500 feet down to the Valley? Dear me!" "And that is the +Cathedral Rock? And those two peaks are the Spires? I don't exactly see +the resemblance; do you?" + +There was a sort of wail of delight from us all as we came on the +"Bridal Veil Fall"; and I do not think any one cared to know that it +was just 60 short of 1000 feet high! Surely one of the most graceful, +lovely _chutes d'eau_ on earth, lost though it be from view behind the +rocks at the close of its feathery flight! But there was no stopping to +look at anything; relentless Fate drove us down and on, till the wheels +rolled more evenly, and at last we came to the bed of the valley--some +1800 yards broad, opening out here and there yet wider--and we +rejoiced in the sight of the bright clear water of the Merced, child +of innumerable icy mothers, flashing, sparkling, dashing and brawling, +like a myriad Lodores, between her banks decked with flowers and +covered with forest trees. + +Suddenly there dashed out of a glade two cavaliers, and made full tilt +at the leading carriage. "To arms!" Not a bit of it! Nor banditti +or Injuns--of whom we had met one or two riding sullenly along to +the hunting-grounds--no, only two hotel touts armed with cards of +self-commendation, and not apparently in much rivalry, for when told +that we had engaged our hotel, they galloped off to waylay other +travellers, of whose coming they were apprized by our driver. Our +hotel, I may say by the way, gave us full contentment. The site was +admirable, commanding a full and near view of _the_ Fall of Falls--the +Yosemite--which had so fascinated our eyes that we could scarce divert +them to any other object--not "Widow's Tears," or "Virgin's Tears," +nor the "Three Brothers," not anything but the Yosemite! And so, when +our rooms were pointed out, we made off to the spot where the fine +cloudlike vapour rising above the tree-tops indicated the basin into +which the waters sought rest after their troubled leap. + +Our way lay through the usual gathering of stores, hotels, livery +stables for the horses and ponies needed for the excursions, and +curiosity dealers' shops, to the village street, as it may be termed, +shadowed by fine trees, under which reposed some Indians--one of whom, +an Amazon in yellow toga, went riding full gallop past us, her hair +falling in a black mat on her shoulders, sitting low, in Melton style, +regardless of poultry, children, and boulders, and vanishing in a cloud +of dust under the trees. Then we turned to the left and crossed the +river by a rustic bridge; and as I looked down into the dancing waters +certain shadow-like objects flew up against the current. "Trout?" +asked I. "Yes, they're trout. They take 'em--when they dew--five +pounds weight. The Injuns catch 'em. We don't understand it as well." +A short walk, with eyes ever up-turned, and we come out to a moraine, +and, clambering up over a mass of trunks of trees and decaying timber, +_the_ Falls were before us--I cannot write more--no adjective will do. +"Two thousand six hundred and thirty-four feet, mind!" says the voice. +"I don't care," thought we, "it's the most beautiful and wonderful +water-jump ever seen by human eye." "It only remains," as they say, to +state that there is first, falling over a sheet of granite straight as +a wall, a considerable river, which in the plunge comes down at once +1600 feet. There, in a basin of rock, it collects its scattered forces, +under cover of eternal spray and cloud, and then takes another header +of 434 feet to a barrier of granite, against which it rages for a mad +moment, till it swells over and escapes from control by another spring +of 600 feet sheer down--and now it is free, and rushes past at our +feet, a joyous flashing stream. + +We returned through the meadows from the Falls, and as I was walking +in advance of the party a snake wriggled across the path, which I +struck at instinctively with my stick, and was lucky enough to kill +at the first blow. I exhibited the carcass, or whatever a snake's +dead body may be, in triumph to my companions. Further on our way we +fell in with an old Frenchman who was carrying a basket of fruit from +his little garden to the inn. With all the courtesy of his country, +he offered to Lady Green the choicest in his little _corbeille_. He +came from Lorraine very long ago to prospect in the States, almost the +earliest of the pioneers, but he was still strong and active, and he +pointed with great satisfaction up to a white flag planted on a dizzy +height above, which he said he had placed with his own hands. The chief +livery stable keeper is a German named Stegman. The first ascent of the +Dome was made by a young Scotchman named Anderson, from Montrose; so +with Indians, Americans, Mexicans, Europeans, there is a very liberal +representation of the nations of the world, in the season, in the +valley. Mr. Hutchinson, the Conservator of the Valley--one with all +the enthusiasm of the American character in everything pertaining to +the country, aggravated in this instance by an intense admiration for +the valley over which he is appointed to watch--joined us at dinner in +the little inn. Full of information, bubbling over with anecdote and +illustration, and replete with all kinds of knowledge concentrated upon +the one object--the Valley--the Valley--and nothing but the Valley. +He knows its history since the time it was first discovered, and its +natural history and geological formation, and all about the Indians who +lived there and their traditions. It so happened that the Commissioners +of the State of California, who are bound to visit the public +domains, were also at the hotel, and so we had quite an unofficial and +ceremonious meeting; and presently, as we stood in front of the hotel +gazing up on the peaks, lighted up by the stars, and listening to the +thunder of the waterfall, a startling report burst out on the night, +and in another instant the echoes repeated from rock to rock were +crashing through the Valley with the roar of heaven's artillery. It +was the first gun of a salute ordered by the Commissioners to be fired +in honour of the Duke's arrival. The effect was very fine, but I doubt +whether I did not feel full of resentment at the outburst, very much as +the owls and night-hawks might have been expected to feel, if one could +judge from their cries. However, even a salute and echoes must come to +an end, and as we were to get up early to start for the Mirror Lake, we +turned in to bed at an early hour; not, however, to sleep, because the +indefatigable and numerous company in the public room, off which were +our bedrooms, were in high spirits, and the song and the dance, to the +accompaniment of an invalid piano, for some time asserted their sway. + +Mr. Hutchinson had the Duke out early, because it is one of the +obligations to see the sun rise, reflected in the Mirror Lake--if +you can. There is no fear of cloud or rain. In the Mirror Lake is +reflected--or was as we saw it--the precipice at the other side of the +Valley, the bulk of Mount Watkins (so called from a photographer who +has been daring and successful in his renderings of the Yosemite), and +all the surrounding scenery. Once a friend and I saw a cow on its back +in the air, by the shore of a Highland lake. The surface was smooth as +that of the Mirror before us now. It was flapping its tail from side to +side, and its forelegs were up in the sky. We could not make it out at +first. There was, in fact, a cow standing near the water of the loch; +and what we saw was a reflection of the animal, actually stronger and +better defined than the object itself. So it was with the reflections +in the Mirror Lake; but when the sun rose over the cliff and we looked +at the water, the glare was too dazzling. "It was," as Mr. Wright +remarked, "like the electric light." There were curious optical effects +produced, some being troubled with purple, others with green or yellow +in their eyes, after a vain attempt to look at the reflection, but that +did not last long. + +We returned to breakfast to make an early start for Union and Glacier +Points on ponies. Among the company at the hotel, introduced by Mr. +Hutchinson, there was a young lady who was well acquainted with the +Valley, and who proved to be a very agreeable companion in our mountain +ride; but it was not long ere she was candid enough to let it be known +that she did not visit the Yosemite out of love of the picturesque and +beautiful, but that she was interested in the sale of photographs of +the Valley, and was, in fact, a very persuasive and efficient agent of +a firm in San Francisco, who had thus established an outlying picket of +great activity and vigilance; and I am sure we all hope she may always +be as successful with the visitors as she was with us. Of what we saw +from the Glacier Point I must leave others to write or speak. It is +reached by a zigzag on the mountain-side--a peculium of the maker, and +all the "trails," as they are called, in the valley are the property +of individuals or firms who are paid by tariff, and we heard "Eleven +gone up before--Duke Sutherland, Lady Green, Sir Green, Mr. Wright, Mr. +Russell, Mr. Jerome coming! Sixteen coming up behind!" On the plateau +behind the cliffs, from which you look down on the Valley and at the +snowfields on the mountain ranges opposite, there is a log house and +shanty, and there we had a mountain meal ere we began the descent. + +Nothing in the way of riding is more disagreeable than going down +a very sharp mountain-side on a pony not, for all you know, very +sure-footed, and so instead of riding, I resolved to walk, now and +then taking a short cut, to the great discomfiture of feet and boots, +although it is three thousand feet to the bottom, and make the best +of my way and the most of the road, which is very fair, down the zig +zags. I reached the plain thoroughly hot and tired, and bathed in +perspiration, in fifty-seven minutes. The horsekeeper, who came down +with the rest of the party, seemed to have been affected by the rarity +of the atmosphere or something else up at the mountain hostelry, for +he insisted on it that I had ridden down, and demanded his horse. +"What the thunder, Russell, have you done with my horse?" he asked +again and again. Satisfied for the time by my assurances that I had +not ridden at all, he went off, and then, thinking over the matter, +came back again to repeat his question, till I told him I would not +answer it any more. He was an amusing fellow in his way, and affable. +He called the Duke "Sutherland," now and then putting Mr. before it. +As he was watering his horses, he said: "Here, Mister Sutherland, lay +hold of the bucket, will you, whilst I take a turn at this one." And +the Duke did so with alacrity. It was a day of incessant activity. No +sooner had the mountain party come down than they were off again to +drive through the Valley. The rest of our party had already executed +masterly investigations at the foot of all the waterfalls; admired +the Bridal Veil and the Widow's Tear, as one cascade is satirically +termed, "because," says the guide, "it dries up in six months;" had +driven and ridden everywhere and seen everything, and we had to do the +same; but it would need a week of conscientious work to exploit the +Valley thoroughly. At half-past 7, the dinner hour, the little inn was +swarming with people; the stage had arrived with fresh contingents. +Every place was full, and what with the clatter of knives and forks, +the clamour of waiters, the tumult of voices laughing and talking, +it was scarcely possible to conceive that a few short years ago this +valley was in the exclusive possession of the Indian and the wild +beast. There is now, however, a great conflict of interests, and Mammon +is holding his revels in the Valley. The State has voted a certain +sum of money, twenty-five thousand dollars, I think, to buy up the +interests of the trail-makers; that is, those who struck out and made +paths to the various objects of attraction; but no success has yet been +attained in the negotiations, and, indeed, I should think it a very +bad investment for most of them to accept their share of such a sum. +Macaulay, for example, who made the path up to the point from which +we descended to-day, must make many hundreds of dollars in the height +of the season, as he charges so much a visitor, and, besides, has a +restaurant where they take their meals at the top. + +Next day (June 5th) we left the Yosemite with the satisfactory +assurance that we had made the most of our time, though we could not +believe we had done it justice. There were some small "nuages" on the +face of our "Mirror Lake," caused by changes in the mode of conveyance; +but we found six horses and one of the coaches of the country were +better than four horses and two carriages of less capacity. Yosemite, +I may tell my readers, means "Grizzly Bear" (it may be "Great Grizzly +Bear"); but we only heard of one having been thereabouts for a long +time, and I believe it was thoroughly tamed. After a glorious day in +the woods, clambering up the steep from the Valley, and then on by the +road--the only one--to Clarke's, halted there for the night, when we +returned from a ceremonious visit to the "Big Trees." We had a most +delightful ride from Bruce's, and a hard canter back through the woods +on capital ponies, full of life and action, and very sure-footed, but +rather inclined to have their own way, which was not always that of +the rider. We turned into bed at Bruce's, quite delighted with our +expedition, and rather anxious to see the road we had traversed in the +dark by the garish light of day. Every traveller's tale, and every +guide-book of recent date relating to this part of the world, has a +full account of the dimensions, number, appearance, and condition of +these wonders of the world. They are either prostrate, mutilated, or +decaying; not one has survived the stormy life he must have led for +some 3000 years--a few hundreds more or less do not signify. Those +which remain upright are scarred by fire and lightning, and drop their +monster arms, hung with ragged foliage and sheets of bright moss, +mournfully over the ground where their trunks will repose in time to +come. I cannot conceive any object of the kind so magnificent as one +of those Washingtonias in the full vigour of mature treehood; but we +could only fancy what it must have been like by measuring the stems, +for there was not anywhere in the forest a tree to be seen which had +not suffered. The best way to visit the scene--for it may well be +called so--is to strike out from the road on the way to the Yosemite +before the halt at Bruce's; but the hotel-keepers and stage-drivers +will persuade the stranger, if they can, to defer the excursion till +his return from the Valley, so as to make a half-day more out of him. + +_June 6th._--All up at 5 o'clock, and off soon after 6 A.M. The first +stage, eleven miles, we did in two hours and ten minutes--a very +pretty road; the second stage, eight miles, in forty-four minutes. The +ravages made by fires are most deplorable. We had passed through this +great forest track in the dark, but now seen in the morning light, the +trunks of magnificent trees rotting on the ground, or standing upright +with lifeless arms, consumed at the base, were visible everywhere. +It is difficult to find out the exact truth about the cause of these +fires. Some few people said "it was the Indians," but the weight of +testimony attributes them to the shepherds, who for the most trifling +purposes kindle a great fire. In some of the large trees they have +hollowed out regular chambers, and of course the tree dies. Such waste +of timber! For mile after mile we passed scenes of desolation which +ere long those who allowed them will have cause to regret. From time +to time we encountered on the road trains of waggons drawn by teams of +handsome mules with bells, and had occasion to admire the economy of +labour exhibited in the management, by which the driver is enabled to +work a powerful break with one hand whilst he drives with the other. +The next stage, of fourteen miles, was over an exceedingly bad road; +but the horses were good, and we rattled along at a capital speed down +towards the plain. Once the quick-eyed driver, pulling up suddenly, +said, "See that rattle?" leaped down and made towards the bush; and +as we followed him, sure enough we heard distinctly the noise of the +snake, which he had intercepted on its way to a rabbit hole. It took +refuge in a clump of bushes with gnarled roots, and coiled itself round +one of the branches; but by a course of judicious and rather nervous +poking it was driven from its vantage ground, and trying to escape was +killed by the driver with a blow of his whip, followed by a good many +unnecessary strokes from the rest of the party. It was over three feet +long, and had just been making an evening meal upon a rabbit, which it +had left where we had startled it; and it was evident from its swollen +appearance that it had been for some time engaged in the warren close +at hand. + +At 10.20 we reached Fresno, which is what the Americans call "quite +a place," containing not only an hotel, a restaurant, and a store, +but a shop where photographs were exhibited. The _chef-d'oeuvre_, a +portrait of a Spanish lady 140 years of age, living at Los Angeles, did +not, however, commend itself to our taste. We halted at Coarse Gold at +11.40, and left at 12.35. Mr. Jerry Loghlan--who excused himself for +not working on the ground that "there was no use in it, as there was +nothing to be had," the mines being worked "out"--whose acquaintance we +had made on the way up, a huge, broad-shouldered _vaurien_, was still +hanging about with his specimens of quartz, gold, and rattlesnakes' +tails, and a black eye recently acquired in battle. + +After a long, hot, and dusty drive, it was with no small gratification +we made out on the flat the houses of Madera, and after a time the +carriages of the special train. The air is so bright and pure that the +distances are very deceptive, and it was nearly 5 o'clock P.M. before +we reached the station, which had been visible for more than an hour +previously. It was pleasant news to hear that the little German barber +at the way-side had got baths all ready. In the rear of his shop there +was a row of apartments, each provided with a clean zinc bath, hot and +cold water to turn on at discretion, and an abundance of towels. This +in the centre of a waste seemed very creditable to the civilisation +of the people. I should like to know in what part of Europe you would +get similar comfort under similar circumstances. I am afraid there are +many parts of the British Islands where a traveller would demand such +a luxury in vain. And the barber was there to shave those who needed +it, and to give you all the news of the day if you wanted it. He was +a Prussian, and he grinned from ear to ear as, in reply to my question +whether he had served, he said: "Serve, indeed! Not I. I came away and +escaped from all that nonsense. There is not a king or an emperor or a +prince that I would fight for. Why should I?" "But," said I, "you would +have to fight for the Republic here if it were in danger; and that +would not be fighting for your fatherland." "Yes," said he, "it would, +for this is my fatherland now. But I do not want to fight for it either +if I can help it. Fighting is nonsense." + +Our excellent stewards received us, if not with open arms, with smiling +faces. The carriages were trim and clean and fresh, the tables spread +out, and all kinds of dainties provided for the evening meal. We rested +quietly for the night in the siding at Madera, and got under weigh at +5 o'clock on the morning of June 7th, the train being timed so as to +reach San Francisco at 12.30. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +SAN FRANCISCO. + + The Palace Hotel--General McDowell--Palo-Alto--The + "Hoodlums"--The Real Sir Roger--Exiles in the Far West--The + Chinese Population--For and Against them--The Sand Lot--Fast + Trotters--The Sea Lions--The Diamond Palace--The Coloured + Population--"Eastward Ho!" + + +The British Consul, Mr. Booker, who has been watching over the +interests of the Queen's subjects for some thirty years here, and who +is an institution by himself, met the train at a place called, I think, +Porta Costa, and welcomed the Duke and his friends. There had been +for some days an infusion of the Chinaman in the general element of +life along the line, but here it became concentrated, and then ceased +to attract much attention. As the train approached the wide expanse +of muddy water from the Sacramento, which charges down with impetuous +volume, and colours the bay with its turbid stream, we could form an +idea of some of the advantages in the expanse of navigable river, that +had, however, lain long without appreciation but for the bright red +gold possessed by San Francisco. The bay is animated; white canvassed +craft stud its waters, and the smoke of steamers pollutes the clear, +bracing air. Italian fishermen are busy with line and net, and flights +of ducks and squadrons of gulls and cormorants show that the waters +are well stocked. It was too late in the year to see the country in +the full affluence of its wealth of fruit and crops, of hay and corn, +and the hillsides and fields are now disappointingly brown. Presently +we arrived at Oakland, where the train was run out on a pier 3500 +yards long, to the steam ferry-boat which was to convey us across +to San Francisco. The ferry-boat was crowded, for Oakland is a city +of some 50,000 people; and of course it had once on a time, not very +remote, only a few sheds and insignificant houses. From this side of +the bay the city of the Golden Gate, some miles away, was now visible +in all its pride of place--pride but not beauty, now at least--for the +city presents no great attraction to the eye. The streets, running in +parallel lines at right angles to the quay right up the sandy hillside, +look like the ribs of some stranded monster, "lank and lean and +brown." The most prominent object is the hotel to which we are going, +which towers far over the general level of house-top, steeple, and +factory-chimney. + +There is a little pamphlet, crammed with statistics and with an array +of figures and superlatives enough to daze one, given to the guests +of the Palace Hotel; but those who are in that happy category scarcely +need the information, and those who are not could not derive any idea +of the building from the repetition of the ciphers which are to be +found in the guide-book. The drawing on the outside affords the best +notion of the size, but only actual purview can enable one to judge +of the excellent arrangements, the service, the table. For once the +American idol "Immensity" is not overlaid. "'Tis blinding bright--'tis +blazing white! O Vulcan! what a glow!" Electric lights flooding the +court with brightness beyond description. And what a court! Sweetness +and light indeed! In the great quadrangle, 144 feet by 84, there are +fountains playing, groups of statuary, and exotic plants, and, tier +after tier, rise the pillared terraces outside the seven storeys of +which the main building consists, painted a lustrous white, shining +like purest Parian. There are 755 rooms, abounding in conveniences, +and comfortably luxurious. Each is provided with high-pressure hot and +cold water, and there is an elaborate system of ventilation, alarms, +conductors, pneumatic tubes, telephones, and "annunciators" for fire, +letters, servants, &c. The beds are excellent; the furniture admirable; +and this vast structure, 120 feet high, 275 feet broad, and 350 feet +deep, is not only fire, but--listen--"earthquake proof"; so says the +bill of fare, and so says ex-Senator W. Sharon, the proprietor. I have +not the least desire to test the truth of the averment, but if I must +be in a hotel when an earthquake visits the city in which I am, let me +be in the Palace, San Francisco. A man may live here in the enjoyment +of a pretty continuous series of meals and one of the best bedrooms +for four dollars a day, and there is a lower tariff of bed and board at +three dollars a day. + +_June 8th._--Our first day was rendered exceedingly pleasant by the +kindness of General McDowell. The weather did its very best to prevent +our enjoying it, and was signally defeated. San Francisco is perhaps +the windiest city in the world, and at this time of year there is +almost always a storm in the harbour, and a steady, powerful, and +somewhat chilly blast, setting in a little before noon, and lasting +throughout the day until nearly sundown, up the streets. The General's +aide-de-camps came over early to the hotel, in full uniform, in honour +of Major-General Green, but General McDowell appeared in mufti, which +eased us down a little. A powerful steamer, the "_General Macpherson_," +was prepared for the party, which was swollen by a considerable number +of gentlemen invited by our host to meet the Duke, and the gentlemen +from Topeka, who were included in the invitation. The excursion +afforded a favourable opportunity of inspecting the city defences. +From Alcatraz Fort, Point and Presidio Island batteries, which would +not be considered very formidable as far as armament is concerned, +although their position affords great advantages for torpedo defence, +salutes were fired in honour of Sir Henry Green. But in the case of +some of us the sight was marred by the rising sea, which increased to +an inconvenient height as the steamer reached the Seal Rocks, close to +the entrance to the bay. Of the seals I shall give an account farther +on. They did not seem to mind the steamer very much until she blew her +whistle, when many of them splashed into the sea. At the termination of +the trip, which lasted some four hours, General McDowell entertained +the party at his official quarters, which are beautifully situated on +a bluff overhanging the water of the bay. + +_June 9th._--We spent, in some respects, an abortive and deceitful +day; not, indeed, that there was anything disappointing about our +entertainment at Belmont, under the auspices of ex-Senator Sharon; +but that we started full of enterprise, and intent upon inspecting the +great works of the Spring Valley Reservoir, and of making an excursion +through what was described as a very beautiful county whence is +brought the water supply of the great city in which we were sojourning. +However, though we were baulked in the object of our expedition, the +day passed, and not in the least degree unpleasantly, and instead of +going to the Lakes we drove about the neighbourhood of Belmont, and +visited several country seats. + +No one who visits San Francisco should omit taking an early opportunity +of going to Palo-Alto to inspect the stock of General Stanford's +thorough-breds, and the breeding establishment, which as a sample of +perfect order and management cannot be surpassed. I cannot answer for +the figures, but I was informed that the owner spends 25,000_l._ a year +upon the maintenance of his stud and stables, and that he has not as +yet sold a colt or filly, or parted with a single animal; sires, mares, +and young brood now amounting to about 700 head. They are beautifully +housed in detached stables fitted up with every convenience that a +horse of the highest pedigree and most luxurious taste can desire. +I was particularly struck with the perfect silence which prevailed +throughout the stables. No shouts to "stand over there," and none of +that "----" (groom's expletive) which is so common in our country. +And partly owing perhaps to that mode of treatment, and to gentleness +in handling, all the horses without exception seemed tractable and +sweet-tempered. High-bred stallions stood out in the open for our +inspection, and allowed themselves to be rubbed and felt without even +laying down their ears or raising a hind-leg from the ground. In reply +to a question respecting a remarkably beautiful animal, which seemed to +have a little more fire in him, the head groom said "You may walk under +his belly if you like," and then and there he told one of the grooms +to do so, which the man did, without attracting any unusual degree of +attention from the animal. Outside one of the large blocks of stables +there is a kind of testing arena, in which we were told it was the +pleasure of General Stanford, when he was at home, to sit watching the +performance of his young horses. It is an ellipse, like a large circus, +bordered with a hoarding, and in the centre there is a raised stage for +the visitors, on which are revolving chairs. The riding-master, with an +attendant, performing the functions of the late Mr. Widdicombe, sets +the animal in motion, checking him when he breaks into a gallop. The +speed at which the animal trots the ellipse is known by the time marked +on a chronometer, and the fact is recorded for the information of the +inspectors, who can turn round their chairs and follow the action of +the horse as it trots round the ring. + +The district of the State in which Palo-Alto is situated boasts of +several residences of the Californian millionaires. One house which +we visited, I think belonging to Mr. Flood, furnished the most ornate +and beautiful examples of woodwork that were ever seen by any of the +party. The house, which was as large as a good-sized English country +mansion, is constructed of timber of the finest quality, beautifully +worked, painted and varnished; and with moderate care a mansion of this +kind will last, in this climate, a couple of hundred years, which to +the American mind is an eternity. There were artists from New York, +and the staff of an upholsterer and decorator of great renown from the +Empire City were still busily engaged in the place as we went through +the rooms. The magnificent halls, reception-rooms, billiard-rooms, +library, bedrooms, all fitted up with extraordinary luxuriousness, +but in a somewhat florid taste, were of wood, the doors of many of +the apartments arresting attention by their extraordinary beauty and +finish. The ceilings decorated in fresco by Italian artists, and bright +windows filled with stained glass gave an appearance of light and +grace to the whole residence. The kitchen arrangements were marvels +of ingenuity, and one envied the butler who would have such a pantry +as that which was displayed for our inspection. Some of the pictures +which were ready to be placed on the walls were remarkable, however, +only for the richness of their frames; and, indeed, we heard that +the excellent proprietor was not a man of very cultivated taste; a +child of fortune, in the prime of life and of money-making, spending +a portion of his enormous wealth with an easy hand, but destitute of +what is called book-learning, and leaving to some future generation the +cultivation of the graces and the acquirement of accomplishments which +the circumstances of his early life had denied him to effect. + +It had been arranged that we should return to San Francisco to dinner, +but Senator Sharon had in his secret heart resolved that we should do +nothing of the kind, or at least, that if we did so, it should only be +after we had partaken of such a feast at Belmont as would very much +indispose us to test the capabilities of the _chef_ of the Palace +Hotel. From Palo-Alto accordingly we were driven to the charming +country house, some miles away, of the ex-senator of Oregon, and we +were regaled there, after some delay, at a very elaborate _dejeuner_, +sent out from San Francisco. It was nigh 8 o'clock ere we got back +to the city; and the night ended by what might well be called "an +excursion" to the Baldwin Theatre, which was at the time the most +attractive of the places of entertainment of that sort open in the +city. As some of us were walking back, after the play was over, with +an American friend, talking of the "hoodlums," famous rowdies, who, we +were assured, had been of late days utterly broken up by the vigilance +of the police, our attention was attracted to a number of lads smoking +at the corner of the street. Our friend said "Hoodlums broken up! There +they are--don't you believe it. That's a lot of them, and if you were +alone you might find out very unpleasantly that there are plenty of +them." + +The San Francisco journalists possess astonishing powers of +imagination. I rubbed my eyes when I read that I had described "with +eloquence the similarity between a marsh at San Bruno and a patch +of jungle in the north-west of Scinde, where I had the felicity +of spending three weeks with General Green while the natives were +arranging a plan to capture the party and cut our throats." I never +was in the north-west of Scinde in my life, and, although I had the +pleasure of passing a longer time in his company in the United States, +and of being on the same plateau before Sebastopol when he was there, +for a still longer period, many years before, I never spent three +weeks there with General Green. The Duke was described as "professing, +but showing, little enthusiasm." However, these matters are of very +slight interest or importance; only one wonders how many of the readers +of this sort of literary work believe in it. One of our party has, +according to a local paper, become a clergyman, and now rejoices in the +style and title of "the Bishop," by which he is universally addressed +by the party. + +While in the train, on our way to Belmont, I had the pleasure of +being introduced to a gentleman who, although a lawyer in very large +practice, is General of the State Volunteers; and in the course of +conversation, I heard that he had papers containing the statement of +a gentleman who had visited, and which convinced him that the real +Roger Tichborne was living not very far from San Francisco. General +Barnes, whose name and character stand high in the city of the Golden +Gate, and whom I found to be a gentleman of great intelligence, seemed +perfectly satisfied by the story told by this new "claimant"; but what +he mentioned to me did not at all tend to create in my mind any notion +that he was not an impostor, and especially were my doubts confirmed by +the quotations which General Barnes made from some of the narrative, in +which there was a ridiculous jumble of French and English, in order to +justify, apparently, the stress placed by the "claimant" in his story +on that part of his life which was passed in France. He spoke of his +uncle as "mon oncle," and of Thursday as "Jeudi," and so on. However, +General Barnes appeared to be so impressed by the truthfulness of the +man's bearing, and by the full details he gave him at an audience +in which he supplied the facts for the consecutive narrative which +I was promised, that I expressed a desire to read it. General Barnes +subsequently sent me a long written paper containing the heads of the +claimant's story, a perusal of which strengthened the conviction I +had previously entertained. I only mention this circumstance because +there was a report spread throughout the Press, by the agency of one +of the great telegraphic associations which furnish the American +public with intelligence, that the Duke of Sutherland and myself +had interviewed the real Roger Tichborne at San Francisco, and had +satisfied ourselves that he was the man; and innumerable "headings" +were invented for this supposed interview, of which I was soon made +aware on my return westward in every newspaper that I read. I promptly +denied the statement that the Duke or myself had seen the new claimant, +and although the denial appeared in print I was exasperated day after +day by being asked questions afterwards with regard to this supposed +conversation with Tichborne at San Francisco, and by inquiries as to +my real impression; so it would appear that no one had seen or paid +any attention to the refutation of the story which had brought down +on my devoted head communications from friends of other Tichbornes, +of whom there are several living, some in poverty and others in +comparative affluence, in various cities and districts of the United +States. I had further the mortification of seeing it stated in print +that I had used disparaging words in alluding to the credulity of +General Barnes, which was an entirely baseless fabrication. With all +the extraordinary keenness of the American mind generally, there is +associated with it a considerable amount of the Anglo-Saxon quality +which is termed "gullibility," and the land swarms with impostors who +make a living out of the easy faith of the population. I do not speak +merely of spiritualists, quacks, and professors of peculiar religions +or medical dogmas, nor of the preachers of eccentric forms of faith or +unbelief, but of the mass of persons who contrive to get an existence +by representing that they are "someone else." Although their tricks +are well known, the trade still flourishes. They are always the "sons +of peers," who have got into disgrace with their families, but who +will eventually be owners of castles of historic fame and of enormous +estates; "distinguished soldiers"; "Maids of Honour to the Queen," +who for some unknown reasons are living in small out-of-the-way +villages in the West; or political conspirators who have played a great +part on some distinguished stage and have saved themselves from the +consequences of defeated enterprize by taking refuge in the States. +And then there are hordes of persons who are known by the title of +"confidence men," who travel about on the trains or in the steamers, +looking out for victims, or lounging about the bars and saloons, +waiting for their prey in the shape of some facile and easy-eared +stranger, who in consideration of their merits and distress shall give +them temporary assistance. Sometimes, doubtless, there are cases of +very real suffering, sorrow, and poverty, to which exile in the United +States affords a melancholy refuge. I was obliged to hear in one great +city of a gallant soldier who, reduced to poverty by no fault of his +own, had quitted England and given up the society of his friends, +and lived in a small suburb of a town on the coast of the Pacific, +his secret known only to one or two officials, shunning all contact +with his countrymen and evading as far as possible all inquiries of +his friends. In San Francisco, where there is a poor-house open to +strangers and to native-born Americans alike, there are, I am told, to +be met with extraordinary exemplifications of the "downs" of fortune. +Adventurous and daring spirits, and pioneers of civilisation, at one +time probably possessed of wealth which was wasted in dissipation, +or lost in unfortunate speculations, are there, talking of the days +that are gone, in all languages of the world, and awaiting their end; +while others who started with them in the same race are building their +palaces or revelling in the enjoyment of wealth, compared to which our +greatest fortunes are, if figures can be trusted, a mere bagatelle. How +rapidly some of these fortunes can be made was illustrated by numerous +stories connected with some of the richest men in California. I was +told by an eminent tradesman of San Francisco that one day a miner came +into his establishment to buy a watch, which he said must be cheap +and good, for he wanted something he could trust to in the matter of +time, as he was going off with a party on an exploring expedition +after gold. This was in the early time of the great "booms" in the +West. He selected a watch, for which he paid $40, and departed. The +following day he appeared in the shop and asked to see the proprietor, +and then, producing the watch, he said he would like to have $30 for +it, as he had lost all his money in a "spree" the night before and +must have something to start with. The jeweller said, "Well, I will +return you what you gave me for the watch, as it has suffered no harm, +and you shall have your $40 back again." The man went away exceedingly +rejoiced, and the incident was forgotten. Some eighteen months +afterwards a man came to the establishment, and looking at rings, gold +chains, and jewellery of the most costly character, and asking for the +best of everything that they had got, gave orders which occasioned the +attendant to have some doubts as to his sanity, or certainly as to the +means he had of paying the amount, which was rapidly running up to tens +of thousands of dollars. So he sought out his principal. The strange +customer said, "I suppose you don't know me?" which was admitted to +be the case. He went on buying all the same, making the remark, "You +need not be uneasy about the money, for So-and-so (the bankers) will +tell you I am all right, and when you send the things home you shall +be paid. I am Joe Smith, from whom some time ago you took a watch he +bought from you when he came to your store, and gave him the full value +for it when he was in want of money," and so departed, having shown his +gratitude by buying 6000_l._ worth of jewellery. This worthy miner is +now one of the wealthy pillars of the State. + +The Chinese quarter of San Francisco has been described, I will not say +_ad nauseam_, but as often as any book has been written which contains +an account of a visit to the city of the Golden Gate. Of course we +went there, and saw all that was to be seen under the best possible +auspices, for Mr. Bee, whom I have already mentioned, was our guide +and companion, assisted by an exceedingly intelligent officer of the +police force; and on the occasion of our second visit, when we went to +the theatre, we had the advantage of being under the protection of the +gentleman who represents law and order, on behalf of the municipality, +in connection with the Chinese population and the arrangements for +theatrical performances. + +The inspection of the dreadful den in which the opium-smokers were to +be seen suggested to my mind a train of thought in connection with the +traffic which I would not willingly have communicated to my American +friends. It will seem incredible some day to the awakened conscience +of the nation that we should have ever sanctioned such a frightful +crime as the opium traffic. "It only poisons about two millions of +people," is the excuse, "and brings in one-sixth of the whole revenue +of India." If ever it were justifiable to utter the exclamation "Perish +India!" it would be, I believe, in regard to that disgraceful source of +revenue, and the necessity that is imposed upon us, as it is alleged, +to raise it, in order to maintain the government of our Indian empire. +Here in San Francisco the State has nothing to do with the sale of the +poison, and it is very questionable whether the police regulations +should not be applied to it, just as they are to persons who have +tried to commit suicide, or to the inebriates in public-houses, or to +places where intemperance is carried on to an extent injurious to the +public peace. Death is the inevitable result of continued indulgence +in opium-smoking, although it is true that in some cases the victim +lingers on a few years, utterly indifferent to all the business of life +except the one--the means of supplying himself with his only source +of enjoyment. I was in one of the shops where they sell the drug, and +was much struck by the cadaverous, sunken faces of the unfortunate +customers, with bright dreamy eyes, trembling limbs, and wasted bodies, +who came in to buy it. It is cheap enough, in all conscience, as a very +small quantity suffices to produce what is called "the desired effect"; +but for its bulk it is exceedingly dear, and indulgence in it must +consume a considerable amount of the earnings of the best-paid artisans +when they are no longer able to earn sufficient to keep them with a +full supply. "Then," as our informant says, "they will commit any crime +to get it." + +The general impression made upon me by the appearance of the Chinese +population was most favourable. I do not now speak of what one might +see in going through the haunts where the police regulations assign +exclusive possession to certain classes of the population, which, sooth +to say, seemed numerous enough; I refer to the business quarters, and +to the crowds of cleanly, intelligent, well-behaved people of both +sexes in the streets. General McDowell, and many other persons, for +whose opinion the greatest respect must be entertained, look with +apprehension on the effect of the Chinese immigration, and have, +indeed, declared that it will destroy the Union if it be not checked; +and these apprehensions are based upon the possibility that in time +millions on millions of the swarming population of China will inundate +the United States, gradually overrun town after town, usurping all +the fields of labour, and beating down the white man to the greatest +misery by competition in every branch of trade, industry, and labour. +This party has successfully, I believe, impressed its views upon a +considerable number of senators and representatives in the Eastern +States, who can exercise pressure on the Supreme Government; and +the treaty recently signed between the Republic and China contains +provisions which enable the authorities at the western seaports to +exercise considerable control over the current of emigration. But, on +the other hand, it is alleged that the fears which are expressed of +a rapidly increasing exodus of Chinese from China, and an anabasis +into the United States, are purely imaginary--in fact, unreal and +pretentious. The pro-Chinese party allege that the emigration comes +from only one port in one province, and that you may go all over the +West, and ask any Chinaman or Chinawoman where he or she comes from, +and you are met with the invariable answer, from the one port. The +friends of the Chinese--arguing, moreover, that the State at large +is benefited enormously by the accession to its resources from the +Celestial Empire, and that the labour was attacked, not because it +was cheap, but because it was good; that it is now indispensable, for +without Chinamen and Chinawomen it would be almost impossible to carry +on the ordinary life of these cities--allege that the agitation which +has been so violent in San Francisco is mainly encouraged by those +who want to secure the Irish vote. Colonel Bee represents these views +very strongly. He argues that Canton, not larger than the State of +New Hampshire, is the sole source of emigration. He insists on it that +there are no more than 100,000 Chinese in the whole of the Union, and +that for the last ten years the emigrants have not sufficed to fill +the places of those who had gone home with money, never intending to +return, or who had died. He maintains, indeed, that the Chinese are +decreasing rather than otherwise; and with all the power of figures, +which he has at his fingers' ends as Consul, demonstrates that a very +large proportion of the Chinese who are entered as arriving at San +Francisco and other parts are the same men and women as those who came +some years previously and went back to their native country, returning +to gain more dollars. + +The principal enemies of the Chinese are the Irish, who, having +monopolised the whole of the work of bricklayers, plasterers, carters, +porters, and general labourers until their arrival, have been forced +to reduce their rates of labour steadily by the competition of the +Chinaman. + +The part of the population of San Francisco denominated the Sand lot, +and especially those connected with the political associations of the +city, do not by any means share Colonel Bee's views; but the agitation +is dying out, and the meetings, which were of weekly occurrence, to +excite the people against the Mongolians have decreased in number, +importance, and interest. The directors of public companies, and +the contractors for public works, are all in favour of the Chinese +workman, who is sober, industrious, and orderly; and although the trade +combinations among them are exceedingly subtle, and their powers of +association for trade purposes remarkable, being moreover the most +ancient in the world, the Chinese in the Western States have not as +yet taken to indulge in the luxury of strikes. As domestic servants, +nurses, and attendants on children, they appear to be affectionate +and careful; and nothing could be better than the service of the hotel +in which we were lodged, the great portion of which was carried on by +Chinamen and women. + +_June 10th._--In the spacious courtyard of the Palace Hotel, at +7 o'clock this morning, there might have been observed three +well-appointed waggons (as Americans call the vehicle more +appropriately termed "spider" at the Cape), each with two horses +of race, fast trotters, panting for a spin through the city and the +Park out to the shores of the Pacific. The Duke and Sir H. Green and +Mr. Stephen were driven by Mr. Howard. Mr. Wright was "personally +conducted" by Mr. ----, and I was put behind a pair of as handsome +chestnuts as could well be seen anywhere, of which the owner and +driver (General Barnes) was very reasonably proud. The streets of +San Francisco, like those of most of the American cities we have +visited, are atrociously paved; the torture of driving over boulders +is aggravated by the sharp ribs of the tram ways, so that it is not +pleasant, if, indeed, it be possible, to drive rapidly till the limit +of municipal incompetence or fraud be passed. But once out on the +suburbs the chestnuts were invited to step it, and were bowling along +at a good fourteen miles an hour on our way to the Park, over as good +a road as horse or man ever felt under hoof or foot. The Park not long +ago was a waste of sand, it is now swarded and planted with shrubs, and +luxuriant with flowers. Notices that it was unlawful to do more than +ten miles an hour were posted up, but the General did not pay strict +attention to them till he came near shady places, where experience +warned him that policemen might be lying privily in ambush. The pace +was quickened till the waggon seemed to fly through the air rather +than move over the ground. It was the perfection of travelling on +wheels--almost as buoyant as a headlong gallop. The waggon weighed but +180 lb., the powerful animals "scarcely felt it more than their tails." +I had a turn at the reins by "kind permission" of the General. The art +of driving trotters needs practice. You must keep a strong, steady +pull on the head, or they "break." Very soon I had the satisfaction +of making the chestnuts break the law with a vengeance, and of hearing +the General say, "We are just within the three minutes! not ten seconds +inside it!"--that is, of trotting at the rate of just twenty miles an +hour. Up hill and down hill, and along the flat out of the Park and +over the smooth road, and in half an hour the Pacific was in sight, and +the murmurs of the surf rose above the rhythm of the regular beat of +the eight hoofs in front of us! Cliff House was in view. Seal Rocks, +in their setting of foam, lay before us, and in forty minutes from the +time we left the hotel, despite policemen, miles of bad pavements, and +tramways, we drew up at the steps of Cliff House, nine miles from San +Francisco, and the trotters had not turned a hair. From the verandah +at the sea front of the hotel, we enjoyed for half an hour a spectacle +which is, as far as I know, unique. At the distance of 500 or 600 yards +from the beach at our feet there is a group of four very rugged rocks, +with serrated edges and tops, the sides broken here and there into +ledges and small platforms. They are too small to be called islands, +the largest being, as it seemed, not 100 yards wide. The slopes are +not, I think, so steep as they looked on the land side. On the two +largest of these rocks there were herds of sea-lions, so close that we +could see, through very poor opera-glasses, with the greatest ease, +their eyes, teeth, and whiskers, as they reposed or played with each +other. Some had clambered to the highest ledges, escalading the sides +by a series of painful-looking struggles with their flappers; others +were fast asleep in cosy nooks; some were tossing their heads about and +making believe to bite each other in sport; the younger ones were bent +on teasing their fathers and mothers by uncouth gambols. As they played +or moved they uttered cries between a bark and a roar; now and then the +noise was like that of a pack of hounds in full cry, and the effect of +the strange sound mingling with the tumult of the surf and the beat of +the waves was most singular and "eldrich." Those fresh from the sea +were shining black, but became lighter as they dried. The older ones +were not darker than cinnamon bears or unwashed sheep. As many of those +on the rocks had not long left the water the general effect of the +herd put one in mind of a gathering of enormous slugs on cabbages--not +a poetic simile, but a just one, I think. Occasionally a sea-lion, +hungry or bored by his companions, threw himself with a splash into the +wave, and it was interesting to watch the rapidity and actual grace of +his movements in the sea compared with his laborious efforts on the +land. One could see them quite clearly through the body of the heavy +billows; occasionally a bold one would glide close on shore and fish +in the edge of the surf, raising his head and shoulders clear above +the surface, and then diving out of sight. They were cruising about +in every direction. You remember the sea-lion at the Zoo, of which the +French attendant was so fond? Well, the creatures below and before us +were most of them double the size of that fellow, and several exceeded +the largest ox in size. The monsters are quite well known; one is named +Ben Butler, "because he is such a great beast." They were formerly +protected by law, but some one thought they killed too many fish, and +the law was repealed. They are safe all the same, for there is a law +against the discharge of firearms within 300 yards of an inhabited +dwelling; Cliff House throws its aegis over the sea-lions in that wise; +but the quantity of fish which must be devoured by these mountainous +phocae (an they be so) daily would maintain a decently-sized city. The +hide furnishes the "sealskin" used to cover trunks, and the body yields +oil fat, and the tusks are close, white, and hard. These sea-lions +breed far away up north, and come with their young regularly every +year to the same resorts; but incessant war is waged upon them by the +sealers and whalers, so that the chances are against the beast where he +is not protected by law, and their numbers do not increase. Altogether, +the spectacle was one never to be forgotten. A hotel, with oysters +awaiting us for a forebreakfast refection in the background, waggons +from Michigan, horses from Kentucky, all the apparatus of civilised +life close at hand, the Pacific and its strange wild denizens at our +feet! "Let us turn in and have an oyster." "What! oysters in June?" +"Yes, and good ones too." In this favoured land oysters are in season +all the year round. There are no oysters found on the coast, I am told, +and they will not breed. They are brought all the way from the Atlantic +coast when they are mere oysterlets, and they are laid down in the +Pacific, where they grow fat and large, but are not "crossed in love," +and therefore are fit to be eaten from January to January. They are +about the size of a spring chicken, and need some courage on the part +of an assailant who desires to dispose of them as he would a native. + +This was our last day in the city of the Golden Gate, and the +photographers were masters of the situation; and there was much +_debris_ of sight-seeing to sweep up--visits to be made, shops to be +inspected, among which I must mention specially the Diamond Palace +of Colonel Andrews, one of the handsomest jeweller's "stores" in +the world, though it is not as large as the establishments of the +principal firms in London, Paris, Vienna, or as Tiffany's in New +York. The distinctive feature of the interior is the decoration of the +paintings of fair women, on the ceiling and the walls above the cases, +by necklaces, diadems, zones, and other feminine ornaments of real +diamonds, emeralds, rubies, and pearls. The pictures are the work of +an Italian artist of merit, and the general effect is very striking; +but I doubt whether it is a good way of inducing people to buy the +articles which bedeck the ideal beauties. At Bradley and Rulofson's +we saw photographs of many of our friends, and had one more proof of +the smallness of the world. Every one we knew seemed to have visited +San Francisco. There we all submitted to inevitable fate, and left our +negatives behind us, but the Duke was captured by a rival photographic +institution, and had a sitting all to himself. + +The aspect of a crowd in a large American city differs from that of +the passers-by in the street of an English town, most of all in the +appearance of such a large proportion of coloured people. Here it may +be said, however, that they are colourless, as the prevailing hue of +the foreign population is that of the Chinaman. In Canada the number +of negroes, or of persons of negro descent, of varying gradations of +colour, is remarkable, considering the circumstances, but they probably +may be accounted for by the emigration in the olden times of those +who were escaping from slavery, or who went with their masters and +employers into the Dominion. In the cities on the Lakes I was very +much struck by the persons of undoubted African descent who are to +be met with in the streets in great numbers; and in Chicago there is +a quarter nearly exclusively occupied by them--honest, industrious, +hard-working people seemingly, given to stand about at the street +corners, however, a good deal on Sundays, and cultivating a bright +attire, especially on the part of the ladies, whose bonnets and +shawls were things to wonder at. There are loafers amongst them, as +there are amongst their betters; but, taking them all in all, in the +Northern, Western, and Atlantic States, they are a decidedly useful +element in the population, easing the burden of labour to the white +man, and following many occupations, such as those of waiters, barbers, +bricklayers, and labourers in the less skilled sort of work, for which +it would be difficult to find American substitutes. One peculiarity, +which may be accounted for by some wiser person than myself, seems to +be their recklessness as to what they put on their heads. Whether it +is merely a compliance with the custom of the white man, which impels +them to cover the highly effective protection against sun and cold +which Nature has given them, or not; or whether it is that the canons +of taste in such matters have not yet settled down to those accepted +by people in civilised life in the Western world, the male negro has +the most extraordinary indifference as to the quality and shape of the +thing which he calls a hat or cap, and it would not be easy to find out +of the gutters of some Irish country town anything more dilapidated, +battered, and utterly incoherent than some of the hats which one may +see on the heads of people of colour, especially down South. Whatever +other virtues they may have, neatness is not amongst them; for, with +all their affectation of finery, their clothes are generally ill-kept, +their houses are unkempt, and, where they are cultivators of the soil, +the operations are performed in a slovenly manner. The traditions of +the old plantation have descended upon them, and influence them. + +On my way from Messrs. Donahue and Kelly, the bankers in Montgomery +Street--I believe the former of these gentlemen has had the +privilege of giving his name to steamers and cities, leastways +railway stations--I saw a party of sailors belonging to the United +States steamer "_Rodgers_," now about to proceed in search of the +"_Jeannette_," and I was much struck by their resemblance to our own +bluejackets in general "cut of the jib," dress, face, and figure. +They were in charge of a smart-looking officer, and had been paying a +farewell visit to the fruit and vegetable markets--one of the sights of +the city. They were in high good-humour, laughing and chatting loudly, +more than is the wont of Americans, and I could not but contrast +their fine physique with that of the soldiers we had seen at Sir Henry +Green's parade when General McDowell took us round the harbour. The +detachment at the Fort, consisting of infantry and artillerymen, and +squads of different regiments, had some weedy veterans in the ranks, +who had lost their setting up and did not look fit for much work; but +the sailors, probably a picked lot, were good all round. + +_A propos_ of Messrs. Donahue and Kelly, the number of wealthy +men in San Francisco of Irish origin or nationality is remarkable. +Millionaires with names of Milesian prefixes and terminations are +phenomenal. We had intended to return to the East Coast by way of Utah, +and to stay a day or two at Salt Lake City, but the railroad company +did not consider it expedient to give the party the facilities which +had been accorded in every other instance by the American authorities +to the Duke and his friends. To have gone round Salt Lake City would +have cost a couple of hundred pounds more for haulage, and we were +much more interested in seeing Leadville and Denver than the City of +the Mormons; the game was not thought to be worth the candle, and +it was resolved that we would go back as we came, in charge of the +representatives of the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railroad Company. +It was only one item more in the long list of things we ought to have +seen if we could, and I can safely say that we had a large share of the +common experience of travellers in regard to the relations between the +possible and the impossible in the course of a journey in a strange +land, where there are for ever cropping up representations that "you +really ought not to leave without seeing" so and so. The evening of our +last day was passed in the society of General McDowell, Mr. Morgan, +the English Consul, Colonel Bee, and others, who had done so much to +make the visit to San Francisco all that could be desired, and whose +courtesy and kindness will ever be remembered by every one of us most +gratefully. Like Sir Charles Coldstream, we "had seen everything, +done everything," but, unlike him, had found there was plenty in it. +The street railway--most ingenious and successful, invaluable in a +hilly city like Lisbon--the Chinese Theatre, the Joss houses--shops, +eating-houses, opium dens of the Chinese quarter, the clubs, the +principal buildings, the streets, the shops, the markets, the harbour, +the suburbs, and country round about--all had been inspected, and +yet each day we were told that we were doing positive injustice to +ourselves and to the objects which were perforce neglected. In the +morning there was a levee in the hotel to bid the Duke good-bye and +see the party start on their return journey. At the very last moment a +gentleman came forward with a proposal to take us to the North Pole by +balloon, but there was not time to consider it in all its bearings and +the offer was declined with thanks. We started at 10 A.M., and the Duke +was attended to the boat and to the station across the water by a large +body of San Franciscans, who took leave ere the train started. The +gentlemen who were with us on the journey westwards attended the Duke +on his way towards the Eastern States. All day we travelled through +California--"the hot furnace"--which at first, however, proved to be +only very warm, and the coloured servants had constant supplies of iced +compounds to be drunk for the solace of the homeward bound, and had +laid in a stock of San Franciscan luxuries to soothe the way. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +CALIFORNIA TO COLORADO. + + Los Angeles--Mud-geysers--"Billy the Kid"--General + Fremont--Manitou, the Garden of the Gods--Desperadoes--Bob + Ingersoll--Denver City--Leadville--Grand Canyon. + + +_June 12th._--The train stopped at Los Angeles at six in the morning, +and, drawing up my window-blind, the first person I saw on the platform +was our good friend Colonel Baker, who had come to meet us, intent +on the good offices which he could render during our stay. These were +exhibited in the form of a beautiful bouquet for Lady Green, baskets +of limes and oranges, and great bunches of grapes. In this happy valley +there are cares as in the rest of the world. The Colonel told us he was +in the midst of a great litigation affecting his claim to a large tract +of land in which there are said to exist the richest tin-mines in the +American Continent. Yet why should he care about his tin-mine? There +were rolling acres rich with corn and fruit, and there were flocks and +herds and vineyards, and a charming home of his own. Nevertheless, if +the want of that tin-mine made him at all unhappy, I am sure those who +were indebted to him, as we were, for so many kindnesses, will wish his +claim to be triumphantly asserted, and long possession of all that is +to follow. + +I dreaded the passage of the Desert to Yuma; and indeed the heat was +intense. No wonder that with the thermometer ranging from 100 deg. to 104 deg., +all the blinds in the car were pulled down, and we sprawled listlessly +on the cushions. Our excellent attendants put forth all the resources +of art in the shape of ice and preparations of limes and cocktails; +but the temperature would not be baffled. We could just read, and were +aware that we were living, and some of us had strength enough now and +then to execute forays against flies with napkins to drive them out +of the carriages. How could people live out in the open, and work in +the mines, or pursue any out-of-door employment in such torrid heat? +Nevertheless, there was a marked distinction between it and the heat to +be endured with the mercury at an equal height in India. + +The speed of the train was very respectable--somewhat over twenty miles +an hour--and at that rate we ran from San Gorgonio and Banning on to +Cabazon, through a flat plain, dry and burnt up, very like the desert +around Suez, and fringed, like it, with rocky and rugged hills, save +that there was a great growth of Spanish bayonets and cactuses of all +kinds among the stones and sand, and that snow was to be seen on all +the hill-tops in the distance. For 107 miles there was no water to +be met with going along this plain; but the mirage, of which I have +spoken in the account of our journey to San Francisco, was frequent +and beautiful; and again I was fascinated by the sight of lovely lakes +embowered in trees, with stately cities on their shores, changing and +shifting and melting away, only again to assume apparent substance to +cheat the senses. + +Once the train stopped to allow the passengers to visit the +mud-geysers, which were not more than 150 yards on the left of the +line, and with commendable curiosity most of us got out and walked +over the baked earth to the spot. There was no mark whatever of smoke +or vapour to indicate the place; and it was almost startling to come +suddenly upon a kind of pond of semi-liquid mud, fifty or sixty feet +in diameter, on which huge bubbles, varying in size from an orange to +a hogshead, were continually forming and bursting. There was a faint +sulphurous smell, and the ground around the liquefied portion of the +surface, where the bubbles were breaking, was hot and cracked. The +conductor said that all attempts to reach the bottom of the holes +through which the bubbles arose had failed. Two of these geysers +were in active operation, and the plain away to the left of the rail +was said to contain a great number of them. After all it was very +unsatisfactory to see this ebullition going on without being able to +account for it; and, generally, I think we thought less of each other +and of our information after visiting them, and finding out that not +one of us had any theory on the subject which would bear either fire or +water. + +I do not think I ever saw a sunset more beautiful than that which +marked the close of this day--certainly not in India or South Africa, +nor on the prairie, for which they make claims of surpassing beauty in +the matter of sunsets. As it died out, I felt that "thing of beauty" +could not "be a joy for ever," for it was a combination of colour and +of form, including sky and mountain, that it would be impossible to see +again. + +The kindness of which we have had so many proofs, has followed, +accompanied, and preceded us all unremittingly and unweariedly. A +rough with some Bourbon on board mounted to-day the steps of the +car at a station, and insisted on seeing "this Duke." When he was +told that the object of his attention was engaged, he said, "This +is a land of liberty (as in his case it was), and he doesn't want a +bodyguard with him!" But the conductor sent him away about his business +without trouble. On the platform at Benson a few miners asked "the +Duke to come out and show himself." The people at the stations were +generally satisfied with a quiet peep; now and then an enthusiastic +Scotchman claimed a shake hands, which was always accorded to him. A +sleeper placed across the rails (accounted for by the officers on the +hypothesis that some loafer without a ticket had been turned off by the +conductor, and had put the sleeper in the way of the train to wreak +his vengeance--a thing which has occurred nearer home) was the only +substantial danger to which we were here exposed. + +The heat (June 13th) was intense. The thermometer rose to 105 at one +o'clock in the day, and it was little comfort to us to be told that at +Deming it had been up to 110 the day before. + +For some days we have been supping full of horrors, indeed +breakfasting and dining on them, for the papers contain accounts of +the extraordinary homicides all about this region. Tucson, Benson, +Wilcox--all these places were resounding with the exploits of "Billy +the Kid." Now at Tucson there is, I believe, a man whose name was once +amongst the very foremost in the United States. Who some twenty years +and more ago had not heard of General Fremont, "the Pathfinder," the +adventurous traveller, the energetic politician, the dashing soldier? +He had gone at the outbreak of the war to take up the chief command +in the west with all the pomp and circumstance of glorious war. I was +somewhat astonished to find that he was at Tucson, the governor of the +Territory, on a humble salary, apparently the world-forgetting and +the world-forgot, while "Billy-the-Kid" was perpetrating numberless +atrocities under his nose, and Mr. Pat Garrett was dressing up his +loins with his revolver-belt, and about to go forth with a chosen band +of citizens and seek the redoubtable William.[A] + +A person who has only seen settled States in Europe, or the Eastern +States of the North American Continent, cannot form any notion of a +territory which has become a centre of attraction to all the wild +adventurers and daring spirits which society, in the process of +formation, throws out as a sort of advanced guard. In Arizona, in +1870, according to the American Almanac, out of a total population +of 9658, 2729 could not write and 2690 could not read. Of the total +population, 2491 were foreign born, and 2753 were natives, the rest +being coloured or under ten years of age. In New Mexico, out of 91,000 +people, 48,000 over ten years of age could not read, and 51,000 whites +over ten years of age could not write. It may be inferred from such +figures what is the general condition of the labouring classes in these +States and Territories. The inhabitants of these States have doubled +in the last ten years. They are filling up at a rate inconceivably +great--so great, indeed, that American newspapers are fairly bewildered +and American statesmen appalled by the rush across the Rocky Mountains +and down the rivers, although as yet but a small proportion of the +immense stream of immigrants has flooded the outlying territories. "At +this rate," exclaims a Western editor, "the old monarchies of Europe +will soon be depopulated." When Mr. Lincoln, in 1861, addressed his +inaugural to the expectant States he expressed his confident belief +that there were children then born who would live to see the flag of +the Union floating over no less than 100,000,000 of human beings. The +recent census of the United States gives a return of 51,000,000 of +people, but the most eminent statisticians have arrived at the belief +that the progress and increase of the States will not be at the same +rapid rate as that which marked the history of the Republic since the +cessation of the great civil war. It may be fairly inferred, however, +that at the end of this century the population of the United States +will greatly exceed that of Russia, or that of any empire except +China and Great Britain, including Hindostan. The population, on +each period of ten years, has increased at an average of more than +30 per cent.; in fact, nearer 33 per cent., and the centre of it has +travelled westward at the rate of more than fifty miles every ten +years, till the centre of population is now eight miles west by south +from Cincinnati. In 1800 the Union extended over only 239,935 square +miles. Its flag now floats over 1,272,239 square miles of States and +over 1,800,000 square miles of Territory governed by the central power +at Washington. "We cannot think," exclaims a Republican writer, "that +the war of rebellion settled all our troubles and made us secure in +our Republic. This enormous growth of the practically unknown West +reveals to us the grave dangers that threaten our nation. We meet +there the tremendous influences of alien races and alien religions." +The Americans of New England and of the Eastern States do not feel +anxious on that score, because their institutions are thoroughly +founded, their character formed, and they trust to the great power of +accomplished facts to assimilate the alien elements and sustain the +fabric of the Republic. The bugbear of a great Chinese immigration +has ceased to practically influence Californian politics, and it may +be safely assumed that the bulk of the future immigrants from the +Celestial Empire will only come from the same sources as those which +have hitherto supplied the stream. No wonder, however, that thoughtful +Americans--and there are many who think of the future of their country +as something quite apart from dollars--are filled with grave anxieties +when they see such floods of purely foreign material, which will in +all probability exercise a preponderating influence over the politics +of the Great Republic, surging into the States. Particularly have the +home missionary clergy, as they are styled, been struck by the enormous +influence which this foreign immigration has exercised. According +to one authority, the Rev. Mr. Stimson, of Worcester, "it is not a +question of spreading any particular form of Christianity or of Church +government, but a momentous struggle of American institutions with +alien civilisations and religions for the control of the great Western +country. The problem is not a matter of cleaning door-yards, but of +saving a continent for freedom." The Chinese Question and the Indian +Question are, they think, as nothing compared with the Irish Question +and the German Question. "The Republic," we are told, "stands on a +foundation as broad as humanity itself," whatever that may mean, "but +its condition of existence is a universal regard for the interests of +all." Often during the course of the Duke of Sutherland's excursion +it was our good fortune to fall in with men of great political and +social knowledge. The future of the Republic is, in the mind of these +men, clouded with uncertainty and doubt. They are apprehensive of +some unknown danger. It may be corruption of political life leading +to want of faith in free institutions; it may be the rival energies +and the opposing interests which Washington foresaw as likely to array +the East against the West--the Atlantic States against the inland +States, and it is calculated by some sanguine people that before this +century is over there will be eighteen, or possibly twenty, States +admitted into the Union formed out of the Territories which are now +under the central Government at Washington. Upon such influences as +these alien immigration may be expected to act with prodigious power. +At a recent meeting in Springfield a clergyman gave as an illustration +of the absolute indifference of the foreign immigrants to Republican +institutions a conversation he had with a Norwegian minister in +Minneapolis. "There is nothing," said this gentleman, "in America which +we Norwegians regard as of value except your land and your money. We +do not want to learn English: we do not want to know the Americans +around us; we have certainly no notion of becoming Americans, but we +intend to remain as we are--Norwegians." The Mormons control Utah. They +boast that they will soon govern five of the most important territorial +regions beyond the Rockies. But if Utah becomes a State, as she hopes +to do, she will found a Mormon code of laws and institutions beyond the +power of the United States to control. New Mexico may be considered as +a Roman Catholic State under the control of an excellent archbishop. Of +course all prophecies may be falsified by events, but judging by the +eighty years which have elapsed of the present century, and from the +ratio of increase in that time in the United States, the most liberal +construction may be placed even upon the bounding estimates of American +politicians and statists. When we look to the Far West and see, for +instance, how Winnipeg has become the centre of a great network of +river navigation, 300 miles in one direction, 600 miles in another, +and that the Mackenzie River passes for 1200 miles through what is +declared to be the future wheat region of the world, we may easily +comprehend the anxiety with which the patriotic American is filled lest +the future of such a State should fall into hands antagonistic to the +principles in which his _beau ideal_ of government has been founded and +has prospered. + +_June 14._--At Lamy, a station named after the good archbishop of Santa +Fe, where we halted for a short time whilst the passengers of another +train were breakfasting, a citizen came up to me on the platform and +exclaimed, as if he were very much impressed by the news he was going +to give, "If you look in there, sir, you will see Bob Ingersoll at +breakfast!" I asked whether there was anything very remarkable about +the fact. "Well, sir," he said, "he is Colonel Ingersoll, of whom you +have heard. He is the most remarkable in-fidel in the United States, +and I really think he believes what he preaches. A good man to look at, +too, and, they say, first-rate in his family." I had a glance at the +believer in unbelief, and saw a very presentable-looking person, of +fine appearance and good features, busily engaged in making the most +of his time at one of the tables in the refreshment-room. He was the +observed of all observers, and appeared to like it; and I understood +from one of the crowd that he had just returned from inspecting some +mining ventures in which he was concerned; for, if he does not believe +in the world to come, he is credited with very strong faith in the +excellencies of the possession of wealth in the world that is. His +lectures are attended by crowded audiences, but, as an astute American +observed, "they won't come to much, for, after all, people who do +not believe anything can never get up a great enthusiasm. It is in +believing something that the populace has faith." + +Once more our eyes were rejoiced with the sight of the lovely plains +of Las Vegas, wide-spreading fields decked with flowers and dotted with +flocks, bordered with ranges of softly contoured mountains, the courses +of the water streams indicated by bright vegetation and by growth of +trees of many kinds. From Lamy (170 miles) there is a gradual rise to +Raton, which we reached at 6.30 in the evening. The appearance of the +region we traverse as the train approaches the Raton Pass presents +a strong contrast to the desolate country through which we have been +passing. From Raton the train was drawn by two engines in front and +shoved by one behind, and even then the pace was not very rapid, for +the ascent is very sharp. All the more could we enjoy a very glorious +sunset, as we slowly ascended the mountain. Then darkness came on +rapidly, and we slid down towards La Junta into the night, and were all +fast asleep long before we arrived there. In the very early morning, +on June 15th, some two hours after midnight, we halted for a time at +Pueblo. At 9 o'clock we had to leave our beloved Pullman and change the +cars, for we were to take a fresh point of departure, starting from +the Union Depot upon the Denver and Rio Grande narrow-gauge railway +for Denver, 119 miles distant, and making an excursion on the way to +Manitou, to which we diverged from Colorado Springs: for to go within +reach of that famous resort and not to see it would have been a great +outrage on all the rules and regulations established for the observance +of travellers. Certes narrow-gauge railways need an apology. Their +_raison d'etre_ is, at the best, that they are better than nothing. +"If you won't have us, you can have nothing else." And in such a +mountainous region as we were about to visit, the difficulties and +expense connected with a broad-gauge line would have been enormous, +if indeed it could be constructed at all. The narrow-gauge carriages, +with seats to match, with which we were made acquainted for the first +time, were of course much less commodious and comfortable than those +we had quitted, but far superior to those on the Indian lines of the +same gauge, and Indian engineers had been over to take a lesson from +the Americans for the use of their carriage-builders. Atchison, Topeka, +and Santa Fe Company and Denver and Rio Grande Company have been at +daggers drawn and pistols cocked--ay, and fired--and at battles waged, +in times gone by; and now our friends on the former line were, like +ourselves, the guests of the latter, which was represented by several +official gentlemen anxious to do the honours to the Duke. The scenery +becomes grander and wilder every mile as the special hurries on as +well as it can over the sinuous line, which is piercing a mountain +region savage and sterile, and climbing by the sides of ravines and +creeping upwards in rocky valleys with pine-clad hill-tops and frowning +cliffs above. The engineer who designed the line is a Scotchman named +McMurtrie--or at least of recent Scotch origin--and he seems to have a +special gift for such aspiring work, and a gradient-compelling genius +not to be baffled by altitudes. We were mounting towards the snows. +Range upon range of whitened summits and hoary ridges came in view, +all paying homage to the rugged crown of Pike's Peak, which can be +seen from points more than 140 miles away. The fleecy cloudland which +seemed to lie before us, as we looked away from Pueblo, was resolving +itself into savage alps. And in these passes, which the eye caught for +a moment, there might be El Dorados still undiscovered, for around us +were cities springing out of the desert. Here the enchanter's wand is +the explorer's pick, and no one could say where the precious ore might +not be awaiting its touch. We were coming to the Land of Promises. The +conversation of our new friends, among whom were some gentlemen of the +press, related mostly to mines, and one of them had, as we discovered, +a very certain investment at the disposal of the Duke, in the form of a +mining-claim, which was worth, at the lowest computation, twice as much +as he was willing to take for it. There was no reason to doubt his good +faith, but it was felt that it was a kind of fortune which ought not to +pass into the hands of strangers, and should be reserved for the people +of the country; and I am sure all of the party who had the pleasure of +the owner's acquaintance hope that he has "made his pile" out of it, +and has more than realised his expectations. + +Colorado Springs, forty-five miles from Pueblo, is nearly 6000 feet +above the level of the sea. The character of the line to it is best +described in the fact that the average grade per mile is 44.14, the +maximum curvature 6 deg. There are "no Springs" here, but the little town, +charmingly situated, is a halting-place much frequented in tourist-time +by travellers, and reputed to be healthful. There are some pleasant +houses visible from the station, at which we descended to take our +places in the carriages provided to take us to Manitou Springs, five +miles away. Mr. Palmer--if General, I beg his pardon--the President of +the Railroad, had important business to attend to, but he was so well +represented by Mr. Bell, the Vice-President, that no one regretted his +absence, and it cannot be said in his case _les absents ont toujours +tort_. He is reported to have made a very large fortune with much +ingenuity, and to have business talents which even in this country +excite admiration. Mr. Bell is an Irish gentleman, a member of the +medical profession, who has a delightful villa embowered in a garden +in the environs of Manitou, where the Duke and his friends found a +charming interior and an Irish-American welcome, and discovered that +strawberries and cream were almost as good in Colorado as in Covent +Garden. A quaint, odd place, Manitou--an American Martigny, with +Pike's Peak rising (14,300 feet above the sea) over it in the clear +sky, inspiring regret that we could not make the excursion to the +summit, which is rewarded, we were told, and I can believe, by one of +the grandest views in the world--the usual service of guides, horses, +and mules, and _caleches_--a naturalist's store with skins, minerals, +feathers, and stuffed "objects"--detached wooden houses and villas +in small plots of garden--a straggling street, and large hotels for +invalids. But there was the unusual feature of encampments here and +there by the roadside, and notices forbidding the pitching of tents +within certain limits which were explained by the fact that the high +reputation of the waters and air induces people to come from great +distances for the treatment of consumption, and diseases of throat and +lungs. Many of them find it cheaper to travel in horse waggons and +pitch their canvas dwellings when they wish to make a halt, than to +take up their quarters at hotels. Poor people! what pale, hectic cheeks +and wasted forms we saw; little groups picnicking by the sides of the +rivulets along the roads--each with a gnawing care--anxiety about some +dear one's health in the midst of them. Our driver, an intelligent, +chatty lad, was full of information, and we had to drive the prescribed +road by the wells out to the Ute Pass, a mountain-gorge wild enough--a +small _Tete Noire_--to points to which magniloquent names have been +given. + +It is not for want of what is called puffing that Americans neglect +the resorts of health of their own country, and in the States far and +wide the beauties and advantages of Manitou are blazoned forth on the +walls of hotels and in guide-books to all who can read. I may confess +now that, notwithstanding the magnificent altitude of Pike's Peak, and +the eccentric forms of the rocks in the "Garden of the Gods," I was +disappointed with Manitou. But then the visit was short, and the day +was hot, and the way was long and dusty, and haply it might be that +under different circumstances Manitou would deserve much warmer praise. +It possesses indeed an abundance of curious springs, said to be full +of health-giving properties; and in the course of our drive we halted +several times to partake of drinks from various springs, out of one of +which bubbled up very good soda-water, precisely like Schweppe's best +in taste and appearance. At the large hotel, which put one in mind of +the great establishments of the same sort in Switzerland, the water +served at table to the guests--a sort of pleasant Apollinaris-tasting +beverage--came from a natural fountain. + +The "cataract" nearly made us angry, and there was no regret felt when +the carriages returned to the hotel, where there was unwonted activity +and bustle, as the "Denver Zouaves" had just descended in a friendly +razzia on it, and were desolating the hearts and fireside resources of +Manitou. The consequences might have been serious, as it turned out, +to unoffending strangers. Those who needed it turned into the barber's +shop of the hotel to be shaved, and after some delay a coloured man +appeared, who began to try his hand on me. Fortunately it was not +'prentice, for it was very unsteady, and I became a little alarmed +for my cuticle. "It will be all right, mister," quoth the barber. "I +never cut any one. But I'm demoralised, dat's a fact, having to wait +on dem Denver Zouaves. Lor a messy on any enemy dey has! My nerve's +all gone to pieces wid their wantin' everting at once at the dinner!" +The hotel seemed far more clean and comfortable than the caravanserais +in the land of William Tell; but our stay was short, for we were put +under orders for a sight which has the most inappropriate name that +could be invented--a valley in which the most extraordinary-looking +columns carved out in a plateau by the agency of water, have been +left standing, detached and in groups, to which the visitor enters +through a cleft in a barrier of rock passing round the base of a pillar +of sandstone as high as a house. The "Garden of the Gods" contains +500 acres, and is surrounded by mountains and cliffs. The sandstone +pillars generally taper from the base upwards to a short distance from +the tops, which are flattened out or surmounted by slabs or blocks of +sandstone of fantastic outline, and they are called by names derived +from fancied likenesses to animals, birds, and men. The juxtaposition +of the most brilliantly hued, dazzling-red blocks and strata, with +masses of the same material of milky whiteness, gives the impression +that the scene is the work of human hands; it seems too quaint and +artificial for the hand of Nature, to which alone it is due; and the +vegetation and the trees are in keeping with the character of the +place. A trysting-place for geologists, and their happy hunting-ground, +no doubt. But why "the Garden of the Gods," I pray? + +From the valley or cup, emerging by another road, the driver took us to +a ravine-like recess, almost girt in by high wooded mountains, in which +Mr. (General?) Palmer is erecting a mansion of palatial importance--a +picturesque site surely--cliffs, forests, and mountain all around, and +in view one most singular sandstone pillar, named the Major Domo, 120 +feet high and only 30 feet round--a mountain stream brawling through +tangled brushwood glades--a garden. But the heat! That must prove a +terror by day to the inmates of Glen Eyrie Lodge or Castle--which, by +the by, was named, as one of us insisted, from a collection of rubbish +on a ledge in the face of one of the cliffs, which was, he maintained, +the nest of an eagle. It was now time to return to our train, and we +were not sorry to get back to Colorado Springs. + +From Colorado Springs to our destination at Denver there were still 75 +miles of rail, and the line continued to ascend till we reached Divide +(7186 feet), whence there was a gentle descent. There were sixteen +stations named on the time-table. We stopped at very few of them, +and travelled somewhat too fast to permit our placid enjoyment of the +scenery, austere and vast, which indeed deserved more attention than +could be given to it by passengers in a very lively train--endless +alps on alps, not sheeted with perpetual white, but rather flecked +with snowfields, which contrasted finely with the sombre pine-forests, +and the rich hues of the rocks, touched by the rays of the setting +sun, that, ere it slid behind the mountains, cast a rose-coloured +mantle on their summit. The evidences of a bustling city were not +wanting in the approaches to the capital of Colorado. There were tall +chimneys vomiting out smoke in the distance, and near at hand trains +of waggons were toiling over the dusty plain--still 5000 feet above +the sea-level--fast trotters and people on horseback, beer-gardens, +factories of all kinds, brick-kilns, and then a fringe of log houses +and wooden shanties, before the train stopped at the imposing and +substantial depot. + +It was a quarter-past eight, nearly dark, when we reached Denver, +and glad were we to get into the hall of the Windsor Hotel, which was +crowded with a mixed multitude--miners, and speculators, and traders, +and some travellers like ourselves--a very busy scene indeed. In the +hotel were all human comforts nearly; hot and cold baths, and good +rooms, and more appliances of civilised existence, for those who could +pay for them, than could be found in many hostelries of approved +reputation in venerable towns at home; moreover, exuberant offers +of help and information. One goes to bed laden with obligations and +heavy with the sense of favours which can never be repaid. There was +now a _soupcon_ of frost in the air, and notwithstanding the heat +which we had endured the greater part of the day, fires were not +ungrateful; and as we peered out of our windows over the roofs of the +wide-spread houses of the town, we could see the snow on the lofty +ranges of hills, watered by the South Platte River and Cherry Creek, +which surround the cup in which Denver has been built in obedience +to the impulses of the increasing population, which now numbers, I +believe, 38,000 souls. There was a bright glare from the gas-lighted +streets, sounds of music, and a tumult of life in the town which +would have been creditable to an ancient metropolis. In the morning +from the hotel windows appeared a beautiful and widespread panorama +of the hills we had seen the evening before, peak above peak, none +very densely covered perhaps, or presenting continuous snowfields, but +extending in billowy sweeps far away to the horizon, all capped with +snow, now bathed in a flood of fervent sunshine, the snow lighted up +by the peculiar crimson tints common in Alpine regions. There were +duties in the way of sight-seeing and exploration of no ordinary +nature to be done. First there were interviews and receptions, and the +inevitable drive through the place as soon as the ordeal of breakfast +was over; and ordeal in some sort it was for the strangers to file +in to the public room and take their places at their table, aware +that the morning papers had subjected them to exhaustive criticism, +which was being verified by those around us. The morning papers too +had given some topics for reflection, indications that in the newly +created capital of Colorado desperate men, overtaken by the march of +law and order, had refused to accept service, and were vindicating +their rights as wild western outcasts to take or part with life as +of yore, in reckless encounters and deliberate assassinations. There +were, perhaps, at that moment some hundreds, if not thousands, out of +the population of 37,000 or 38,000 of the city, who belonged to the +adventurous classes--sporting-men, betting-men, ring-men, bar-keepers, +hell-proprietors, and their satellites, and the scum of the saloons +attracted from the great cities of the States for hundreds of miles, +by the prey which miners with belts full of gold, half mad with drink, +and always fond of excitement, frequently are; and if to these be added +the dissolute loafers and broken-down mining speculators, the strength +of the army arrayed against the law may be estimated; and the wonder is +that among a population armed to the teeth there are not more cases of +such violent deeds as we were reading of at breakfast. To the stranger +there was no evidence of the existence of these disturbing elements, +unless the bearded and booted men with speculation in their eyes, +in the hotel passages and halls, belonged to the dangerous, as they +certainly did to the mining, classes. As to the resources of the city, +although for rapidity of growth its wonders may be eclipsed by those of +Leadville, Denver claims a very high place in the catalogue of these +marvellous fungi of civilisation, of which the Western States present +almost unique examples. There is everything that any one can want to be +had for money in the place, and much more than most people need. Paris +fashions and millinery are in vogue. There are fine shops, handsome +churches, a theatre, breweries, factories, banks, insurance offices. + +The principal street exhibits pretty young people, who would have +no occasion to fear comparison with the _beau monde_ in Eastern +or European capitals. The thoroughfares are crowded with vehicles, +and spruce carriages and well turned-out horses may be seen in the +favourite drive, that has been made over an indifferent road to the +base of the Rocky Mountains, which appear to be close at hand, though +they are thirteen miles away. But here and there in the well-dressed +crowd may be seen a Bohemian _pur sang_, or a miner in his every day +clothes, bent on a rig out and a good time of it. The streets, unpaved, +dusty, and rugged, are very wide, and bordered with trees, and the +houses generally are built of good red brick instead of wood; and +there are runnels of water like those one sees in Pretoria and other +Dutch towns in South Africa. The roads about the city leave much to be +desired; but Rome was not built in a day. + +There are many ready-made clothing establishments in the main streets, +and there is a heavy trade in tinned provisions. Through the Western +States, as in South Africa, the debris of provision-tins constitutes +a certain and considerable addition to the objects to be seen in the +vicinity of every house, and to the mounds of rubbish in the street of +every village. How indeed could the first-comers in such regions keep +body and soul together without the supplies in such a portable form +of the first necessaries of life? Having once run up a town in these +remote wastes, the inhabitants are still compelled to make a liberal +use of the same sort of food, and mines of tinned iron gradually +accumulate around them. + +Our first excursion was to the Argo Works, under very pleasant +auspices, for we had the wife of the Senator, who is one of the +principal partners, and Mrs. Pearce, whose husband is largely +interested in the works, taking charge of us. The works are at some +distance outside the town, but the lofty chimneys vomit out quite +sufficient vaporous fumes and smoke to blight the vegetation and to +give the people near at hand a taste of their quality. I am not going +to give a minute description, for more reasons than one, of what we saw +at the works; but it was a very interesting exhibition of the processes +by which the precious metals are extracted from the ores and delivered +to commerce. The Argo Works simply assay and reduce ores on commission, +but the business is on a very large scale. Immense piles, in fact small +mountains, of brown, cinnamon and earth coloured dust and rock were +heaped up in the sheds, to be brought to the furnaces and turned, when +divested of the lead, iron, copper, and gold, out in ingots of silver. +All the methods for the extraction of silver were shown to us, but +I committed a gross indiscretion when I asked, in my ignorance, "How +do you extract the gold?" "That," said the urbane gentleman who was +conducting us over the works, "we never permit strangers to see." So +there is more there than meets the eye. + +The business of assaying here must be profitable, and if the reputation +of any firm be once established there is a secure fortune for its +members. The miners flock to them, and they can dictate terms. The +extent of mining work in the country around may be inferred from the +numerous offices in connection with it in the city. As a specimen +of what Messrs. Bush and Tabor of our hotel give their guests for +dinner, let me offer you this _menu_ of the 5.30 ordinary to-day +(June 16). Soup, beef a l'Anglaise; fish, boiled trout, anchovy sauce; +corned beef, leg of mutton, sirloin beef, chickens with giblet sauce, +fricassee a la Toulouse, veal, kidneys sautes aux croutons, rice, +croquettes, baked pork and beans, saddle of antelope, currant jelly, +lamb, tongue, chicken salad, spiced salmon; innumerable "relishes" and +vegetables, baked rice pudding, strawberry pie, apricot pie, jelly, +blancmange, vanilla ice cream, macaroons, pound cake, fruit, Swiss +cheese, nuts, coffee, &c. The wines were not cheap: champagne 16_s._ a +bottle, St. Julien 6_s._, Leoville 14_s._, sherry 8_s._, brandy 14_s._ +per bottle. Orders for "drinks" at the bar after dinner were much more +general than orders for wine at dinner. + +Denver, in spite of its mineral wealth, is very poor, however, in +that of which the want would make life, even in America, intolerable. +The supply of drinking-water is scanty and bad, and last year there +was nearly a water famine. The _cartes_ in the hotel announced "Water +used in this room is boiled and filtered." But great efforts have been +made to furnish the inhabitants with a store, constant and adequate, +of the precious fluid, and we saw very considerable works, the +property of an Irish gentleman, erected before the town attained its +present dimensions, which were to be supplemented by a new enterprise +respecting which we heard much. Perhaps no town of equal size in an +equal length of time has ever had so much money and money's worth +flowing in and through it as Denver since the Colorado mines were +worked. It is asserted that the trade of the town for 1881 will exceed +8,000,000_l._ Colorado in 1879 yielded ores to the value of more than +3,750,000_l._ The output in the present year will exceed that of 1880. +In that year $35,417,517 worth of gold and $20,183,889 of silver (more +than 11,000,000_l._) was deposited in the United States Mint and Assay +Office. There is, besides, vast wealth in flocks and herds, and Denver +is the place where the people resort from Colorado for purposes of +trade and pleasure; altogether an astounding place, with a future quite +dazzling to think of, unless the mines give in, and even then Colorado +cannot again be poor; its climate and scenery will always attract +travellers, and its capacity for feeding sheep and cattle will secure +its population. "And as to the beetle?" Why, no one would have anything +to say to it. Nothing was known of it. There might be such things in +other States. "And the name?" Probably it was a red-coloured bug, and +got the name Colorado just as the river, or tobacco, was called, from +the hue of it. At all events the bug did not belong to the State. + +The interest which the progress of Colorado and the condition of +society in the State excite was exemplified by the appearance in +Denver of a party of Hungarian noblemen, whose names gave occasion +for stumbling to the journalists who copied them out of the Hotel +Register--Count Andrassy and others, who were travelling under the +guidance of Dr. Rudolf Meyer, of Vienna. Although the air of Denver +is so much bepraised, it happens that most of our party felt rather +overcome at the end of our excursion through the town and the visit +to the smelting works, and one of the Hungarians was confined to his +room. However, they sallied out before dinner, and a gloomy prophet +of evil remarked, "If these strangers should have a difficulty, I +consider they'll hev only theirselves to blame. Some citizens don't +like strangers comin' in and starin' at them, and they're apt to be +awkward in their tempers in the afternoon." Knowing no danger, and +fearing none, they went off, and were a long time absent. Meantime we +were preparing for the road, as we were bound for Leadville, the city +of the "biggest boom" of mining times--"the Silver El Dorado," as the +guide-book, with a magnificent "bull," describes it. Our Hungarian +friends returned to the hotel ere we left. They were filled with +enthusiasm, and with a good deal also of curiosity in regard to the +shootings of which they had heard so much, and were following in our +track next day, and so we parted _sans adieux_. How the love of gold +has filled these lone valleys with desperate men! "They are a rough +lot, sure enough," said the landlord, "but lynching keeps them down; +and it is much better than hanging according to law, to my mind. It +certainly is cheaper." "How is it cheaper?" "Why," said he, "when a man +is prosecuted, or when he is tried before the judges, the law expenses +are heavy, and they fall on the county. When a man is lynched there is +only the expense of the rope, and a little loss of time for the boys +who do the job." From Denver to Pueblo and from Pueblo to Leadville +the line is on the narrow-gauge principle, and our train, which left +at seven o'clock in the evening, seemed to be driven on no principle at +all; for, anxious to astonish a Duke perhaps, or Britishers generally, +the driver did what certainly could not be called his level best to +send us along up and down a very rough line, and round the sharpest +curves, at the rate of forty miles an hour, so that when we turned +in, our rest, if rest at all it were, was exceedingly broken, and +we trundled about in our berths as if we were in a ship in a pretty +heavy sea. Still this narrow-gauge was the only line which could be +made through such a country as we were traversing. Peeps out of the +window ever and anon revealed, high up amongst the stars, rugged +mountain-tops, and for ever there came the sound of rushing water, +near or remote, as the train "bounded" on its course. I do not know +what stations we passed on our way, but the night was very long, and +I greeted with pleasure the first gleam of light above the hill-tops. +The Arkansas River was on our left, and at dawn we had glimpses of +its turbid stream running madly in deep gorges far below us. At the +South Arkansas station the train halted soon after daybreak, and then +we diverged from the main line, and a light train took us over the +Arkansas River by a fine bridge on its way up the Gunnison Extension +to visit the highest mountain-pass traversed by a railway in the +world. South Arkansas station is 217 miles from Denver, and is 6944 +feet--and Marshall Pass (25 miles away), to which we were bound, is +10,760 feet--above sea-level. There were grades of 211 and curves of +24 deg. on the way, and the railroad twisted in and out among the ravines +like an iron Alexandrine, for ever ascending till we had passed the +limits of forest life. There were stations at short intervals--Poncha +Springs, Mears, Silver Creek--from each other. From the stations there +is a good deal of cross-country traffic, and at one place we saw three +stages laden with men and women--or rather, to be polite and accurate, +let me say with women and ladies--starting, one with six horses, and +the other two with four each. These were bound for Gunnison, and as +we were halting for a little, the Duke and some others got out of the +train, and sauntered up towards the wooden shanties which formed "the +town," consisting of the usual array of saloons and drinking places. +However, our course was cut short by the information vouchsafed by one +of the officials, that it might be as well not to go up, as there had +been a big shooting match that morning, and that one man was killed +and four had been wounded, "and some of them were on the drink yet." +From 4.30 A.M. to 6.45 A.M. we struggled up towards the pass till +the line came to an end near the summit, and we were rewarded by some +very fine views, exceedingly like those of the Mont Cenis Railway or +the Soemmering. The hills on both sides of the line were stippled and +flaked with snow, but there was no extensive field, so far as the eye +could see, nor was there any appearance whatever of a glacier, the tops +generally being clear of snow, which only lodged in the ravines and +hollows. Strange it was in these alpine heights to hear the clang of +Italian tongues; but most of the navvies were from Italy, and if not +quite so strong as English or Americans, they were in more favour with +contractors, because they did more work, owing to their steadiness and +sobriety. The line was being pushed on at an astonishing rate, and one +man was pointed out to us who had laid four and a half miles of railway +in one day, "the biggest thing of the kind ever done." Our enjoyment +of the scenery was very much diminished by our animal appetites, +stimulated by the sharp mountain air, which craved incessantly for +food. But not even a cup of coffee was to be had until we got back to +the South Arkansas station, late in the morning, where an excellent +breakfast awaited us. Here we were detained some time by a derailment +of an engine in front. + +From South Arkansas station to Leadville (61 miles) the railroad is +still more aspiring. The higher we ascend the less striking are the +scenic effects, but the grades are not very severe till we come to +Malta, where it reaches 130; from Hilliers to Leadville the maximum is +176, the curves being often 15 deg. The general character of the country +may be conceived from these figures, but no words can convey any idea +of the wholesale destruction of timber which has marked the progress +of the explorers and prospectors. Where the axe was weary the blaze +and the fire were called in, and hundreds of miles of forest are laid +in blackened ruin. At last we are on a level with the hill-tops. +There, on the hill-tops and in the valleys of a sterile region in +front of you, amidst those tall chimneys vomiting out smoke and steam, +is a wilderness of wooden huts, "the Great Carbonate Camp"--where we +leave the train--spread out over an undulating plateau, broken into +mound-like hills and sharp hillocks--bustling streets filled with the +most remarkable swarm of all nations that ever settled on any one spot +in the world. The story of Leadville reads like a chapter out of some +book of Oriental fable. It is a huge barrack of wooden houses, with +some solid and important buildings, with masses of tree-stumps cropping +up in the centre of the main thoroughfares, pitched over an undulating, +rugged, dusty ledge. In the midst of blocks of houses sprout up the +chimneys of furnaces and mining works, the clang of machinery fills +the air, which is thick with clouds of dust. It was a few years ago an +utterly wild, lifeless waste amidst the mountains covered with forests, +when three brothers, named Gallagher, exploring from California, were +led by some genius, good or bad, to test the material of the rocks in +the ravine. They struck gold ore, and silver too, and they set up a +claim; and presently they sold their shares in the land which they had +appropriated, for 40,000_l._, which they divided. Two used their wealth +wisely, and made more of it, and, taking to themselves the members of +the family, throve exceedingly; one, not so wise, if he were quite as +good, did not prosper as well as his brothers. But the scene of their +operations was soon swarming with enterprising miners. There was a +mighty "boom." Now there is a city! Leadville is, I think, the most +astonishing city on earth, but I am not by any means inclined to say +that it is a place I should like to be astonished about for more than +a few hours. + +The party drove to the Morning Star, said to be the best mine in +Leadville; and the Duke, Lady Green, Sir Henry Green, and others, went +down the mine in miners' clothes or cloaks. Two others, whose names I +shall not give, remained above, and had, I fancy, the best of the time. +Afterwards we visited Grant's Smelting Works, and then back to the +Clarence Hotel and dined, strolling out afterwards through the town and +visiting the billiard saloons, the Grand Central Theatre, and finally, +where we were told Leadville life was to be seen in all its glory, the +faro and the kino tables, which, however, were doing but very little +business, as it was not until after midnight that play in the town +generally commenced. Instead of sleeping at the hotel, we resolved +to take refuge in the train, which was drawn up at the siding; and we +had to drive in order to reach it, as it was considered unsafe to walk +through the streets in the dark. + +We started at four o'clock next morning, June 18th, and on arriving +at Arkansas Station learned that an engine was off the line in front +of us. Breakdown gangs were sent for, and all the locomotive talent +amongst our passengers repaired quickly to the scene. As it was not +easy to lift the engine, the engineers adopted the expedient of laying +a temporary rail to turn its flank so as to enable us to pass round +it, which we did after a delay of about an hour. The Duke got out and +sat on the cow-catcher by way of a change. But the interest we took in +the scenery was somewhat diminished by the intelligence that the delay +caused by the engine would prevent our enjoying the "soda bath" we had +been promised at Canyon City, and the sight of the State Prison, where +murderers were to be paraded by the dozen. About twenty miles north +of the Grand Canyon, the gorges through which the river runs became +wider and deeper. All that has been written about the Grand Canyon +utterly fails to convey an adequate idea of its exceeding grandeur +and wildness. The rocks--closing in so that the spectator in the car, +looking forward, thinks the progress of the train must be arrested, +and that it is not possible for it to get out of the _cul de sac_ which +appears in front, rising aloft for upwards of two thousand five hundred +feet on each side--are coloured with the brightest hues, and present an +infinite variety of form. The impetuous current of the Arkansas River, +contracted at times to the breadth of some twenty or thirty yards, +and penned into a space in which the waters boil and toss as if about +to leap on and submerge the passing cars, roars wildly down below on +our right at a depth varying as the line rises and falls. But it is +at the Bridge--a triumph of engineering skill--that the horrors of +the pass culminate. The sides of the ravine approach so near that the +daring engineer was enabled to execute the idea of lowering from above +a [**triangle]-shaped frame or trestle of iron; and, the ends catching +on each side of the gorge, permitted him to work on it for the +construction of the iron platform over which the train is carried at a +height of some hundreds of feet right over the maddened river. You can +look down through the interstices of the girders and glance shudderingly +at the hell of waters below--a sight and sensation never to be +forgotten. The ravine gradually expands and the cliffs recede as the +line strikes eastwards; and though the scenery retains a wild and +savage character for many miles farther, the impressions of the Grand +Canyon caused us to regard it with comparative indifference. We heard +many tales of the great railway war which was waged for the possession +of the pass, of which traces still remained in the ruins of posts of +vantage and observation, and the works of the defeated railroad +visible on the other side of the ravine. At night we reached Pueblo +and took up our quarters in our own cars, and continued our journey, +after some delay, towards Kansas City. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +KANSAS TO ST. LOUIS. + + Liquor Law--Kansas Academy of Science--An Incident of Travel--A + Parting Symposium--Life in the Cars--St. Louis to New York. + + +_June 19th._--Still on the rolling prairies; in the country of +compulsory abstinence--the paradise of Sir Wilfred Lawson. At 9.30 +A.M. the train stopped at Newton, 431 miles from Pueblo, and 281 from +Kansas. + +Here a phenomenon--there was a man by the road side who walked with +unsteady step, whose legs tottered, and who lurched violently as he +came down the road at that early hour. "He is a sick man," observed +one of my friends in the train; "that gentleman has been taking +_medicine_." In the Kansas Act there is a clause enabling physicians, +in case of need, to order stimulants for the patients without penalty; +but I am told the doctors have generally refused to act upon that +permission, so I suppose our friend had been consulting an unlicensed +practitioner. + +It would be ill done, when I am anxious to acknowledge the pleasure +and profit which I derived from my passage through the State, if I +did not record the satisfaction with which I perused a volume of the +"Transactions of the Kansas Academy of Science," which by accident I +picked up at one of the stations. The very name speaks trumpet-tongued +for the progress which has been made in this wild region. The year +before last, the twelfth annual meeting of the Academy was held in +Topeka, and I find amongst the list of papers read such subjects +as these:--The Kansas Lepidoptera; Kansas Minerals; the Mounds of +Southern Kansas; Recent additions to Kansas Plants; Kansas Botany; +Kansas Meteorites; Phonetic representations of Indian Language; +Sinkholes; Elementary Sounds of Language; Mound-builders; On Recent +Indian Discoveries. And among the lecturers there was Professor B. +F. Mudge, who died last year, whose name probably is known to a very +limited number of scientific men outside the University of Kansas. +Generally the papers contributed by the gentlemen of the State attest +industry and attainments which make their praise of the Professor +particularly valuable. It is curious enough to pick up in a railway +carriage, traversing such a scene of comparative wildness and vast +uninhabited plains in Western Kansas, an exceedingly interesting +examination of the Helmholtz theories of sight. The object of the +lecturer would scarcely be suspected by the reader. We had already +been struck by the extraordinary absence of signalmen, or of any +of the complex apparatus of men and machinery which may be seen in +Europe, and notably in England, to report the progress of trains +on the lines. Collisions, however, occur in America where these +precautions are not taken, and the lecturer attributed a good deal of +these accidents to colour-blindness, which appears to have attracted +considerable attention in the United States. Surgeons, pilots, &c., +are tested for colour, and in the army colour-blindness disqualifies +the recruit for employment in the signal corps. Altogether the papers +give an impression that in this new State there are diligent students +of natural history and physics, and profound inquirers into all the +phenomena of life. There was a reverse to the medal. + +At a station where the train halted beyond Pueblo, a card was handed +to me by one of the stewards. "The gentleman is, as he seemed very +pressing, outside; but I told him you were engaged." I started +as I read the name and address on the card, as well I might. They +indicated that an old friend whom I had left in a condition of great +bodily weakness and infirmity in London, was close at hand in this +remote region--a wonderful if welcome fly in amber. I ran out of the +drawing-room into the next car, and there saw a man, agitated and +travel-worn, whom I had never, to the best of my belief, seen in my +life before. His story was told, if not soon, at least in time to +let me partly understand the situation ere the train moved off. The +stranger had been in the service of the gentleman whose card he sent in +to me, but had left it to better himself in America, and had gone out +as valet to an American of good position at Colorado Springs. He found, +however, according to his own account, that he was expected to do +things not required of a valet in his own country, such as lumbering, +wood-cutting, and the like, and so he had thrown up his situation +and was going back to England. He had had quite enough of Colorado +Springs. "I was not there above a month, and I was shot at twice," he +said. "Once because I made some remark in a bar-room, where a chap was +abusing Englishmen; and another time while I was speaking in the street +to a man a fellow had a grudge against. He fired at him across the +road, and the ball whistled within a hair's-breadth of my head." He had +arrived at Pueblo some time before our special, and as the morning was +warm, he walked into a bar near the platform, while the engine of his +train was watering, to get a glass of lemonade. As he was drinking it, +a man walked in and called for a glass of whisky, putting down, at the +same time, what seemed to be a bank note, on the counter. The boniface +said, "I haven't got change for this twenty-dollar bill--perhaps this +gentleman can oblige you." The unsuspecting Briton, who had put the +money for his passage to Liverpool in a purse, drew it out to change +the note, and the strange customer at once seized it from his hand, +and rushed off towards the street with his booty. The Britisher ran +after him, but checked his wild career when he saw, within an inch of +his head, the muzzle of a revolver which the robber had drawn, and the +fellow vanished. "Won't you help me to stop the thief; you see what has +happened?" exclaimed the victim turning to the barman. "I guess there +was no money in that purse, sir. And if there was, perhaps you had no +more right to it than he had." Then the Briton dashed off after Don +Guzman, shouting "police," and was at once accosted by an officer of +the Pueblo force. He hurriedly stated the facts. The policeman smiled. +"I think you won't see that pile agin," he remarked; "and if you +don't look sharp ye'll miss yer train, that's a fact!" The man had his +railway ticket all right, a few dollars in his pocket, and I told him +I would see him and get him a passage, if I found on inquiry his story +was true. My companions thought the tale suspicious--but I believe it +was true, and I subsequently franked the man to England. + +Now here we had an exemplification of the manners and customs of +the district. Such an act of violence and robbery might occur in +London--anywhere. But what of the apathy, or perhaps complicity, of the +bar man? And if it or they be considered not altogether abnormal, is +the conduct of the policeman to be accepted as quite consistent with +the discharge of a policeman's duty? Well, whilst I was pondering on +these things, there came to me the best possible adviser--a judge in +this Israel--our excellent Palinurus, Mr. White. He threw a new, if not +a side light on the subject. "Depend on it he is a confidence man. The +trains are full of them! Our conductors have express orders about the +rascals." And he explained that a confidence man is a swindler--very +often an Englishman, who makes it his business to look out for unwary +strangers, on whom he imposes with some tale of distress, or some +recital of imaginary misfortune and adventure. As the man I had seen +was coming on in the train in our wake, Mr. White promised to talk with +the conductor, and find out, if he could, the truth about the Pueblo +robbery. Before dusk a telegram was forwarded by him to me from the +station where he left us, to say that the conductor had no doubt the +man was robbed, but that it was partly his own fault, and to warn me to +be cautious in my dealings with him. + +We have now been travelling straight on end for 1160 miles, with only +two engineers and two firemen and one engine, a feat of endurance +which has greatly exercised the Duke of Sutherland, who, as a practical +director of the London and North-Western Railway, has knowledge of such +matters, and who contrasts the performance with the experience he has +on the home lines, where engines, engineers, and firemen would have +been relieved or laid up over and over again. The head engineer of the +line, who joined us, Mr. Hackney, formerly of Congleton, had become +accustomed to these journeyings and endurances, which were brought to +the front in our conversation by the engine-driver appearing at the +door of the carriage to claim a dollar which he had won from the Duke +in a bet that he could not do the distance without laying up the engine +for repairs. + +All the long Sabbath-day we travelled on through the prairie, catching +glimpses now and then of wooden villages, around which trees were +beginning to sprout up, and of the little churches with knots of carts, +waggons, horses, and buggies outside, and people waiting for the end +of the sermon. Now and then, perhaps at intervals of fifteen miles or +so, are places of larger importance, such as Emporia, a rising city on +the plains, where many steeples pointed aloft indicated considerable +diversity of creed. An authority, not always to be relied upon, stated +that there are fourteen churches belonging to the town. + +There was a parting symposium in the second Pullman ere we reached +Topeka. Mr. White, Major Anderson, General Brown, Mr. Jerome, and +my much wandering compatriot, a veritable Irish Ulysses, raised the +tuneful melodies of the "Golden Slipper," the "Little Brown Jug," and +the other tender psalmodies which had whiled away so many hours, for +the last time in our society, and the little gages which were but the +outward and visible signs of the regard we felt for our friends were +exchanged with honest effusion. There may be--nay, there are--many +jealousies and causes of estrangement between the people of the Old +Country and of the New, but between the individuals of both there is a +_camaraderie_ which cannot, I believe, be found between Englishmen and +the natives of any country except America. + +"Good bye! God bless you! Be sure if ever you come to England you shall +have a hearty welcome from me." "And from me!" "And me!" "And me!" The +engine bell tolled, and we moved slowly on. + +And we were left all alone! The pleasant companions of so many weeks +had gone! I wonder if they missed us as much as we missed them? + +While travelling across the Rockies and the desert to San Francisco +and back, our course of life was pretty uniform, and one day followed +another with almost perfect resemblance in the mode of existence and +in all things except the scenery and the country through which we +were passing. First, in the early morning came one of the attendants +to our bedside with a cup of coffee, and then the curtains of the +little cubicle were thrown aside and you looked out on either plain, +or mountain, or river, or col; and on the faces of early risers at +doors or windows as the train passed through some rising town. At one +end of the saloon there was a bath-room, and from the tank there was +always to be obtained sufficient water for the purpose of an early +dip, which was enjoyed as occasion offered in turn by the party. Then +a cigarette. Then we dropped in as people do at a country house, into +the sitting-room, and exchanged ideas as to the progress made during +the night, and the stoppages, wondered where we were, and had a little +conversation with the conductor or Arthur as to the place where we +could stop or get the papers--and so got over the morning till 9 +o'clock, when breakfast was announced, consisting of fish, poultry, +meat, fruit (I had nearly said flowers, for there was always a bouquet +on the table), tea, coffee, and cold dishes, with abundance of milk +and butter. Where the fish came from and how they were kept fresh was +matter of wonder, for the instances were very rare in which there was +any indication that it had not quite recently come out of the sea or +the river. The supply of ice was liberal and unfailing, and whenever +we stopped at any considerable station the whole disposable strength +of the attendants in the train was employed in grappling with large +blocks of it and stowing it away in the ice reservoir, in which were +the larder and the cellar for such wines as needed cooling, and for +the vegetables and meat, of which there were great stores constantly +laid in. Then after breakfast there was reading or sight-seeing, +investigating the line, examining the maps, receiving visits and +returning them in other parts of the train, till in the very hot days +it was necessary, after expelling the flies, which were troublesome on +occasion, to draw the dust-blinds and the curtains of the carriages, +to mitigate the fierceness of the sun. It was objected occasionally +that by this process we deprived ourselves of the opportunity of +what was called "seeing the country," but after all a glance now +and then is quite sufficient to reveal the general character of the +districts through which the train is running; and the most diligent and +painstaking observer cannot keep his eyes fixed steadily for a day on +the external aspects of the region through which he is travelling. I +should be sorry to declare that every one was wide awake all the time +of the forenoon and up to the period of lunch, which too often exceeded +on the side of many dishes, being, in fact, a mid-day dinner; but then +no one was obliged to eat more than he liked, or drink either. Then +came the longest stretch of the day, and at its close another banquet; +and as the sun declined and the temperature decreased, we could take +more pleasure in looking out at the fantastic forms of the vegetation +which clothed the arid rocks in the desert, or on the bright green +prairie, or on the towering mountains, waiting till the sun had set, +generally in a blaze of glory. There were, of course, interruptions and +variations as we halted at the more important places; disappointments +about letters which had been telegraphed for and which were expected +day after day, constituted also a matter of conversation and discourse. +There was an harmonium in the sitting-room of the palace car, but +no one had the art of playing it, although we had plenty of music of +another sort; for after dinner the gentlemen of the railroad party who +had not dined with us came in, and we were never tired of listening to +the songs, so original and amusing, which they gave with great spirit +and admirable time and tune, for it happened they all possessed good +voices, and the melodies with which the troops of coloured minstrels +have now rendered the world familiar were then new to us. + +During the whole of our tour the weather has been most favourable. +With the exception of the rainy days in Canada, and the cold and +rawness which characterised the time of our short visit to Richmond, +there was nothing worse to complain of than continual sunshine. Now +and then the temperature was a little too good to be pleasant when we +were traversing the beds of the dry seas in the desert in Colorado and +California, but that was something to look back upon with satisfaction, +because there was no time lost in keeping within doors owing to the +rain and storm or cold. "Within doors," however, is a phrase scarcely +applicable to our mode of life, as it would imply that we were in +stable habitations, whereas, as will have been seen by those who +have accompanied us so far, we "lived and moved, and had our being" +in railway carriages; a mode of life rendered so comfortable by all +appliances, that it was sometimes no relief to be told that we would +have to pass the night at an hotel. + +For nine days and nine nights in succession, on one occasion, we never +slept out of the carriages or got out of the train except to take a +stroll about the station, or a peep into the street of a small town +whilst we were waiting, and one got quite accustomed to that nomad and +yet civilised mode of existence, where at every halting-place we were +supplied with the latest intelligence by the local papers, and made +the recipients of some attention or courtesy, visits and compliments +(the remarks of the other sort not being many), bouquets of flowers, +presents of fruit, and plenty of conversation. But that my critics +might say I dilate too much upon the material enjoyment of life, I +would describe at length the means which were supplied in the course +of these long journeys for animal enjoyment. Never could there be found +more attentive and obliging domestics than the coloured men who waited +upon us--Arthur and his fellows. There lived in the kitchen compartment +of the train, at the end of one of the saloons, a coloured cook, +very intelligent and gossipy, full of quaint conceits and dishes and +conversation, who commenced life as a slave on a Southern plantation, +probably adopted for indoor purposes on account of his smartness. He +liberated himself in the course of the war, and marched off with a +regiment of Federals in the capacity of cook and body-servant to one +of the officers, wherein he saw a great amount of very hard fighting +at very close quarters. This adventurous modern Othello was wont to +discourse with much animation when he came out for a breath of fresh +air on the platform and could find anybody to talk to him, although +he could move no more tender heart than that of Sir Henry Green. The +gentlemen of the Atchison, &c., Railway, when travelling with us, had +a _cordon bleu_ in the saloon--an Italian or Frenchman, I think, or +at all events a French-speaking man, who had served also, and would +have done credit to an establishment where faults in a _chef_ would +not lightly be condoned. In the interchange of courtesies, Mr. White +and his friends invited our party now and then to dine in the saloon, +which was not "across the way," but up a little, on the line, being the +saloon in front of us. + +But here we are at Kansas City once again! At 5.30 P.M. the train +arrived at the platform, which was gay with a Sunday crowd, of +whom many were negresses--black, brown, brindled, and yellow +_citoyennes_--in much variety of colour and garmenting. Unlike Samson, +their weakness is in their hair, and like Achilles, they are vulnerable +about the heels (to the arrows of an aesthetical criticism, which +accepts the Greek idea of beauty in form); but they seemed to enjoy +life amazingly, and not to be in need of beaux; perhaps the happiest +people in the world now that their chattel days are over. It was late +when we turned into our berths, for it was a lovely night and the +fire-flies exercised a great attraction over us, but at last the charm +was worn out and we slept till morning without a break. + +_June 20th._--Still the same boundless plain. In vain does one look for +the grass fields with close, even, carpet-like surface to be seen in +Europe. We are still passing through exceedingly rich land--the fields +covered with flocks of sheep and herds of good-looking cattle. There +are more trees by the stream-side, and shrubs growing in the hollows. +Habitations are more frequent, and so are fencing and planting. As the +sun was setting we approached St. Louis. There were some park-like +glades, and vistas opening up to pleasant mansions, amid grounds +showing marks of culture. There had been a severe thunderstorm the +night before, and the St. Louis Station had still traces of its effects +in pools of mud. But the rain had cooled the air, and the people were +rejoicing exceedingly in the great improvement that had taken place +in the weather, for, they told us, men and women had been dropping +down with the heat a few days ago as though they had been struck by +musketry. + +The appearance of the St. Louis Terminus gave one a high idea of the +importance of this city. Eight trains were waiting on their respective +lines to start with passengers to all parts of the Union; and by +the simple device of placing at the end of each train a large board +announcing its destination and the time of its departure, much anxiety +was saved to intending passengers, not to speak of the irritation of +officials avoided by this simple expedient. The journey was continued +by the Indianopolis and Vandalia, and by what is called the "Pa'handle" +line to the Pennsylvania Railroad on to Philadelphia. The train was +timed on Tuesday so that we were able to see the famous passage over +the Alleghany Mountains from Conemaugh to Altoona. For nearly eleven +miles we were carried without steam, and with the brakes on, through +very fine scenery, down the mountain-side, but the summit was crossed +in the darkness of a tunnel 1200 yards long. There are some striking +engineering feats in the way of curves and gradients, and the trace +of the line is very bold all the way down to Altoona, where the +Pennsylvania Railroad engine and machinery shops are established--the +centre of a population of some 17,000 souls, where twenty years ago +"there were," as a friend said, "only bears, deer, woodpeckers, and +skallywags." The Duke, Mr. Stephen, and our railway experts got out +and visited the workshops, and came back very much pleased at the +discovery of several London and North-Western men in good positions +in the Pennsylvania Railroad Company's service, who welcomed their +old directors with effusion, and that there was nothing visible there +for Crewe to copy, unless perhaps cast-iron wheels. The speed at +which we travelled was a sensible proof that we were once more on the +line of our old friends of Pennsylvania. From Altoona to Harrisburg, +132 miles, we rattled along in two hours and forty-three minutes. On +another stretch of the line we travelled eighty-three miles in one +hour and forty-two seconds, including stoppages; and the rapid motion +was very agreeable, as there was a perceptible increase of temperature +after we reached the plains and approached the beautiful valley of the +Susquehannah--a scene of industry, prosperity, and peace. Fortunately +there was a good light on the river, and we had a fine view of the +country all the way to Harrisburg under the rays of the setting sun. +A little farther on we were gratified by the appearance of General +Roberts at a station on the way, where he was awaiting the Duke to +congratulate him on his safe return from the Western expedition, and we +bade him farewell at his own house, with many sincere and well-deserved +acknowledgments of great and constant kindness. Then over the river by +the noble bridge, and on to Philadelphia. We did not visit Pittsburg, +which was vomiting out masses of smoke, nor did we halt this time at +the capital of the Quaker State. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +NEW YORK--NEWPORT--DEPARTURE. + + Coney Island--Newport--Bass-fishing--Habit of + Spitting--Brighton Beach--Newport--Coaching--Extra + Ecclesiam--Victories of American Horses--Newport + Avenues--Return to New York--Our last day in America. + + +The special train was detained by the immense amount of traffic on the +line, as we approached New York, and we did not reach Brooklyn till a +little before 11 P.M. on June 21, so that it was past midnight when we +ascended the steps of the Windsor Hotel, which we had selected by way +of a change, and found to be every way commendable, with the exception +of its distance from the busy parts of the city. The following day +was devoted to letter reading and writing, receiving visitors, and +various attempts "to go out," which were not generally successful, for +New York was palpitating with the intense heat. The "heated term" was +in full vigour, but it was now quite temperate in comparison to the +excesses which had marked its advent some time before our arrival. In +the evening we got up strength and courage enough to go to Wallack's +Theatre, a very pretty, well-constructed house, and saw "The World" +excellently acted and admirably put on the stage. Next day, June +23rd, in virtue of a solemn league and covenant with Uncle Sam and +Mr. Hurlbut, the Duke and I devoted ourselves to fresh fields and +pastures new, and ordered ourselves accordingly for Coney Island. A +long bank of sand by the sea-shore has, by an accident, become one of +the most crowded resorts in the world, and to-day there were races in +the new ground. It was not, as we found, so easy to get there. Having +the advantage of two experienced guides, our party of four managed to +break up into two and to miss each other; one taking the boat at one +iron pier, and the other embarking by a different mode of conveyance. +But as we were bound to see Coney Island, the Race course being a +secondary object, our temporary separation did not prove a source of +great annoyance. + +The early settlers would indeed have been astonished if they could +look round and see what they have brought the quiet place to in these +later days. They were Quakers persecuted by the good Christians of New +England, who were driven out of Boston as ruthlessly as though they +had been malignants and papists of the worst sort. They settled the +township of Gravesend about 250 years ago, and amongst the conspicuous +settlers occurs the title and name of Lady Deborah Moody, of whom this +deponent knows nothing, but wonders how, with such a title, she managed +to have influence amongst a Society of Friends. + +A ship was built, so the Americans say, of 70 tons in 1699, by the +descendants of the Quaker settlers, and less than 100 years later +the bold republicans, abandoning the doctrines of peace, engaged +and captured an English corvette off the island. It was all along of +General How, who landed his troops here and set the people to work on +the fortifications he threw up, whether they would or no. A corvette, +bound to Halifax, anchored off the island, and an old whaler, who, +says the chronicler, must have been smarting under the wrongs he had +suffered at the hands of the red-coats, or who possibly regarded the +work as he would the capture of a finner or a bottle-nose, imparted +to a few trusty friends the idea of "cutting her out." So embarking at +night in a couple of boats, they stole down with muffled oars and ran +up under the stern of the ship. There was no watch, and through the +cabin windows the officers could be seen playing cards. The crews of +the boats boarded the corvette simultaneously, seized, overpowered, and +bound the officers and men, lowered them into their boats, and, having +set the man-of-war on fire, pulled over to the Jersey shore with their +prisoners. It is to be hoped that the demeanour and language of the +captain have been misrepresented by local tradition; but he is said +to have cried bitterly, and to have exclaimed, "To be surprised and +captured by two blooming egg-shells is too blasted bad!" + +There was a long period of neglect before Fashion and the populace +found out the attractions of Coney Island. Fishermen, oyster-catchers, +and sportsmen visited the sandy beach from time to time; then after +a while a few houses were run up of a very inferior class, and these +were frequented by the very worst of the scum of New York, so that it +was almost dangerous, and certainly disgusting, to go among them, while +the scenes on the beach, to which the present proceedings afford such +a contrast, were described as being of the most disgraceful character. + +The official directions for spending a day at Coney Island certainly +indicate a belief in the possession of enormous physical energy and +indefatigable curiosity on the part of the visitors in those who +compose the code. Having given you sailing instructions by the iron +steam boat to Bay Ridge for the Sea Beach Railway (ticket 35 cents), +you are to visit the Sea View Palace Hotel, the Piazza, the two iron +piers, the _Camera obscura_ (10 cents), the Great Milking Cow, the +top of the observatory (15 cents); then to eat a Rhode Island clam +bake (50 cents), visit the aquarium (10 cents), take a park waggon and +ride over the Concourse to Brighton; see the hotel grounds and bathing +pavilion there; then take the Marine Railway (5 cents) to Manhattan +Beach; visit the Oriental Hotel and take the Marine Railway to Point +Breeze (10 cents) and return back to Brighton Beach Pavilion and take +a bath; then see the Museum of Living Wonders (10 cents), dine at the +Hotel Brighton, hear a concert in the evening, and return to New York +by 11 o'clock. "This trip," observes the compiler, "may fatigue one, +but the excitement soon overcomes the trouble." Coney Island is indeed +an institution. + +Along the sea front of the bank for some three or four miles there +has been constructed an esplanade lined with seats, and defended from +the sea by a stone wall. Outside there is a belt of shingle on which +the surf breaks, but not violently, unless in bad weather. Large +bathing establishments, with every appliance, are placed at convenient +intervals along the shore. Here in the season tens of thousands of +people may be seen, all properly and decently attired, disporting in +the waves. At the time of our visit, the hour and the season of the +year seemed not to be favourable to the indulgence. We were too late +in the day. It is an early place, and from 7 till 9 A.M. from the +month of June to the end of September are described as the orthodox +periods. Nevertheless the spectacle was quite unique, and if you can +imagine Brighton with half-a-dozen Pavilions blown out to twice their +size, and the largest hotels multiplied by ten in length, breadth, and +depth, you may fancy what the Coney Island front is, provided always +that you can also conjure up (literally) myriads of well-dressed men, +women, and children perambulating the esplanade or sitting in the +grounds around the various establishments which occupy a large space +inland--pavilions, hotels, exhibitions, restaurants, and club-houses. +There were fireworks going on in broad day; but these were principally +for the purpose of exhibiting very ingenious Japanese figures, which +were discharged from bombs, and which gradually descending were objects +of eager competition amongst the younger members of the enormous +multitude. And with all so much good-humour, so much propriety of +demeanour; none of the brutal rushes of "roughs" which disgust one +with English popular assemblages--none of the brutal horse-play, and +screams, and unmeaning cries of the 'Arrys and the Bills of our popular +resorts. + +Looking at Mr. Marshall's excellent book on the United States, which +we found to be copious and accurate, I was struck by what he says +respecting a habit of the people which, according to my experience, +has very much decreased since I was last in the States, but which +he finds in as full force, and repulsive as ever. I am bound to say +I think the habit of spitting has very much diminished, but from +numerous evidences, from the presence of spittoons in every room and +in the passages of the hotels, and from public admonitions, such as +one we saw at some of the theatres, that the audience would not spit +upon the stage, I must believe that it still exists. What the cause +of this habit may be it is not easy to determine. It cannot be in the +race, because it is scarcely an "English" habit. I would be inclined +to attribute it to the drinking of iced water, but ladies in America +use the national beverage quite as freely as the men, and spitting is a +masculine failing. Can it be a result of climate? Scarcely. For in the +States, British-born people do not seem to be affected by the influence +of the habit in those around them after many years' residence. Smokers +and non-smokers alike indulge in the practice, so that tobacco cannot +be charged with the disagreeable custom. I assume that it is as common +as Mr. Marshall asserts it is, but I am bound to say, according to +my own observation and experience on my last visit, that there was no +evidence to show that it was common or national. Chewing tobacco also +appears to me to have fewer votaries than formerly. A remark to that +effect at Richmond brought upon me something like a rebuke from the +gentleman to whom I spoke, a Judge of the land. "No, sir," he said, +"not at all! I rather think we chew more than ever!" And, to illustrate +his faith, he produced a silver box, shaped a plug of no doubt very +excellent weed, and thrust it into his mouth. I do not recollect, +however, meeting a gentleman in the course of our journey who used +tobacco in that way, with that exception. + +In the grounds in front of the pavilion, where an excellent orchestra +of some one hundred performers were playing, sat a very large and +appreciative audience, who applauded with discrimination, and were +content with the good performance of each piece. + +Our common rendezvous was the Surf Club, one of the numerous convivial +associations for which Coney Island seems to be specially adapted; +and I presume the name had nothing at all to do with any supposed +amusements of the members in connection with the surf on the beach +outside. There was some difficulty in finding our way through a +labyrinth of rooms all filled with guests: with corridors swarming +with people; with vast halls, where at hundreds of tables there were +seated people engaged in the consumption of the _menu_ of a Coney +Island restaurant, abounding in strange dishes and attended by armies +of waiters. At a rough guess, I should say there may have been about +4000 people in the building--and this was but one of several--I think +the Brighton Beach Hotel, but of this I am not quite sure. + +When the Prospect Park and Coney Island Railroad was opened none +believed in its success, but the foresight of the projector was +justified; and when it was found that respectable people would go +there, if the vagabonds of both sexes and their associates were driven +away, the police asserted themselves, and swept off the gamblers and +the others of a still more dangerous class, who were to be found there +in increasing numbers every year; and then hotels were erected and +landing-places made for the steamers; and now the electric light blazes +in a hundred halls, and music and rejoicing sound late into the night, +contending with the noise of the surf upon the beach. Bowling-alleys, +shooting-grounds, archery, croquet, sailing and rowing, all invite some +of the visitors, according to their tastes. An amusing exemplification +of the ingenuity of American advertisers is afforded by the sailing +vessels, which display in enormous characters on their main-sails +the names of quack medicines, from which no corner of this continent +appears to be safe. + +On June 24th the party, which had been somewhat dislocated, reunited +their scattered forces, and at 2 P.M. started by train after a little +repose, for Newport, R.I. It was a kind of holiday after our travels, +but somewhat out of place, for we were told the Ocean House was +scarcely ready; but we should not have found it out, had we not been +informed of the fact. The newspapers had been on the alert, and soon +after the Duke's arrival visitors began to call and invitations to pour +in--some well-nigh irresistible, for they included opportunities for +experiences of bass-fishing. + +_June 25th._--Newport has not yet put on its festive attire. It is +not the season, and we ought not to be here. Nevertheless it is still +so pleasant, and so respectably dull, that one enjoys it amazingly. +After breakfast we walked down to the seashore and sat gazing on +vacancy, and on three yellow ladies collecting clams. Returning thence +in a very hot sun, ran to earth in the hotel where, presently, there +were many visitors; and how kind and anxious to please they were! Mr. +Fearing drove up later on the top of a drag, and whirled us away to +a charming fishing-box on the shore, in order to judge for ourselves +what bass-fishing was like. It was a very pretty drive, and Mr. Fearing +handled his "four" as if he were bent on joining the Coaching Club--not +indiscreetly, as the horses were not accustomed to going together, but +with satisfactory decision--and we all were landed without mishap by +the side of the road, close to one of the best-organised sporting-boxes +I have ever seen, built entirely for the comfort and delectation of +Mr. Fearing and two or three friends who own the bass-fishing stands, +at the end of one of which a gentleman was then busily engaged in his +pastime, for the sea comes rolling up upon the rocks within some forty +or fifty yards of the sward of the green meadows on which the house +is placed. From it projects into the breakers a platform supported +on iron pillars, at the end of which there is an enlargement of the +structure to enable the fisherman and his attendants to stand at their +ease--the one in hurling the bait and the other in preparing it. And +first, as a proof that the labour is not futile, there was exhibited a +terrible-headed monster with great scales, which had been caught that +morning by Mr. Whipple--a bass of 57 lbs. weight, of which I think the +skull and jaws and gills must have weighed a third. The fishing is not, +as I found, to be done at once, but needs a little practice. The art of +casting consists in the double operation of jerking the bait from the +top of a stiff rod, and checking the run of the line without permitting +it to overrun, which it is very apt to do in an inexperienced hand, by +a pressure of the thumb on the reel, just sufficient to let the weight +of the bait carry out the hook to the farthest stretch of the jerk. +The rod, not more than eight or nine feet long, a work of great art, +and costly, is furnished with a reel, also very expensive, containing a +couple of hundred yards of prepared line. At the end is a large single +hook, sometimes secured to a piece of piano-wire, as the "blue fish" +will cut through the strongest cord or gut. To this is fixed a junk of +fat oily fish, of which supplies are kept in a basket close at hand, +to be cut up for ever and ever by the attendant, and ever and anon +pieces are chucked into the sea, and being of a very unctuous nature, +the oil rising to the top, floats away on the surface of the water, and +attracts the bass within measurable distance of the platform. Captain +Fearing threw, Mr. Whipple threw, and the gentlemen at the end of +another pier emulated them, and pounds, perhaps stones, of bait were +thrown into the sea, but the bass, which are capricious, like most +fish, were not to be caught; and so after a time we returned to the +cottage. + +I was, unfortunately, unable to accept an invitation from one of the +many hospitable gentlemen in Newport, to go out and spend the evening +on a desolate island, where they are said generally to have exceedingly +good sport, in order to get up before sunrise the following morning +and essay my skill, or want of it, in bass-fishing. Mr. Wright, an +enthusiastic sportsman, availed himself of a like invitation with +great pleasure and with many anticipations of delight, but on Monday +morning he returned weather-beaten back, and boot-less and bass-less +home, although he assured me he enjoyed himself very much, and had very +agreeable company out at sea on the rock. + +The following day (June 26th) was cloudy and cool, and all that was +of rank and fashion in Newport went to All Souls Church. There are +many churches in Newport, and in the height of the season, each is, +I am told, well filled on Sundays. And wonderful it is that there is +neither dissension nor controversy among the congregations. They mingle +together coming and going, affording to me, who have been accustomed at +times to observe the manners and customs of my country men and women +on like occasions in Ireland and elsewhere, ground for wonder, not +unintermingled with an ardent desire that we, nearer home, could learn +the secret of this moderation. + +Mr. Bridgman, our fellow-passenger in the "_Gallia_," is enjoying his +_villeggiatura_ with his wife and family in a pretty little cottage. +We were very much pleased indeed to renew our acquaintance with him, +although there was no scope for the display of his fine talents as a +salad-maker. It was not foggy enough for the ladies, who delight in a +thick and moist _brume_ from the Banks, and who sit at the open windows +when it comes on for the sake of their complexions, as it is esteemed +a sovereign cosmetic beyond Maydew or Kalydor. Whether it be rightly +credited with these virtues or not, I can answer for the presence of +many fair ladies in church, and on their way to and fro in the streets. +We dined with Mr. and Mrs. Keene, who reside in one of the best villas +of the many charming dwellings in Newport. + +The victories of the American horses in France and England created +an enthusiasm in the States almost as intense as though they had been +won by the national fleets or armies. From one end of the Union to the +other the news was flashed the same day, and we saw the names of the +conquerors in large letters in every newspaper. Unfortunately there +came at the same time reports of foul play to American competitors at +the hands of some English roughs, and there was a good deal of heat +caused by the objections taken to the entry of the "Cornell Crew" at +Henley. These international contests should be very carefully conducted +and judiciously worked, or they will do more harm than good, if indeed +they do any good at all. The injurious insinuations respecting the age +of Foxhall could but excite indignation in the minds of honourable men +against whom they were directed. + +There is a State House in the town, and there is also a mansion +occupied by Commodore Perry, but the most useful inhabitant of the +place appears to have been one Abraham Touro, a Jew, who gave his name +to the park, a cemetery, a synagogue, and a street. Altogether there +is rather an old-world air and look in the town; but one must go along +the Avenues to have an idea of the charms which lead so many of the +principal families of the Eastern States to make the place a resort +when they are not enjoying the delights of travel in Europe, or that +blissful existence which endears Paris to our Transatlantic relatives. +Bellevue Avenue is bordered by a number of very sprightly dwellings, +of every order and disorder of architecture, and rejoicing in all the +extraordinary richness and elaboration of American workmanship in wood, +each standing in a little park of its own, generally rich with trees, +shrubs, and an ornamental garden. Several of these interiors, as we +had reason to know, were furnished in the very best taste, and filled +with objects of art, excellent examples of good masters, principally +foreign, and articles imported from all the corners of the globe. Of +an afternoon the ladies might be seen driving, in very well turned-out +carriages, to some rendezvous where lawn-tennis or a picnic awaited +them; and altogether, even at this time of year, Newport presented a +picture of great refinement and comfort, which enable the visitor to +understand how attractive it must be in the height of the season, and +why it is Americans are so fond of life in Rhode Island. + +I am not in a position to throw the smallest doubt upon the statement +that the mass of stones in the form of a tower, ivy and moss covered, +and evidently the work of human hands, was not built by the hardy +Norsemen hundreds of years before the arrival of Columbus. There are, +moreover, people who declare that the erection is due to a British +governor of the colony, when it was more prosperous as a commercial +resort, though not so fashionable as it is at present. But American +antiquaries take a great pleasure in propping up the proofs which have +been adduced of Scandinavian enterprise and discovery on the continent, +many centuries before Vespuccius, Columbus, and the English navigators +lived. + +We dined on the evening of the 27th at the house of Mr. Shattock, +a gentleman of New York, who had assembled a party of very pleasant +people to meet the Duke, and kindly hastened his dinner-hour to suit +our convenience, as we were obliged to go on board the Fall River boat, +which called at 9.30 P.M. to take up passengers for the Empire City. +There was some difficulty about getting cabins or state rooms as they +are called, but "Uncle Sam," who came from New York to consort with us +quietly, applied himself diligently to telegraph wires, telephones, +and the like, and when the great steamer came alongside the wharf +our dormitories were ready. The night was calm and fine. There was an +excellent band, quite worthy of being called an orchestra, on board, +which played to the delight of a large audience till it was bed-time. +As a "sight" for a foreigner, nothing could be more striking than +the vast saloon, brilliantly illuminated, with hundreds of people on +sofas, chairs, and benches, reading or conversing in the intervals +of the music, and presenting infinite varieties of type and class, +yet all so orderly and well-behaved; and if you moved quietly through +the crowd, your ear caught many strange languages interpolating the +American speech--German, French, Polish, Russian, Italian, and, perhaps +the natives would say, British. There is some care observed in the +locking up of cabins, and I believe there are detectives and police on +board the boats; but it is said they do not look after the morals of +the passengers, and concern themselves only with vested interests in +portable property. There was no sea on, and the only motion was caused +by the beating of the paddles and the throbbing of the engine, and +early in the morning of the next day we were at our quarters in our +comfortable hotel in the Fifth Avenue. + +_June 29th._--And yet more excursions. Bound by a long-standing +engagement, a small detachment of our party set out this evening to +visit Mr. Barlow at his country place, Long Island, which travellers, +perhaps, have not much occasion to see. The Mayor of New York (Mr. +Grace) and Mr. O'Gorman were on the steamer which took the Duke, Mr. S. +Ward, Mr. Hurlbut, and our host down the Sound, and were introduced to +us by Mr. Barlow. The first-named gentleman I mentioned in one of the +early pages of this diary in connection with the vigorous efforts to +purify the civic atmosphere made by him on his accession to office. I +learn that he has since obtained a large measure of success, and let me +hope corresponding thanks from his fellow-citizens. Attacks on corrupt +influences are apt to receive lukewarm support from the politicians. +The power of the respectable classes, which hold aloof from politics, +is not large. Mr. Grace had more opposition than help from his own +countrymen, who have been long nearly omnipotent in New York, and who +monopolise a large proportion of the civic offices and employment. +Mr. O'Gorman, one of the traversers with O'Connell in the famous State +trials, is one of the leading lawyers of New York, and is held in much +respect by his fellow-citizens. The "old Country" is still dear to him, +but I seemed to gather from his remarks that he shared in the distrust +which American lawyers generally expressed respecting the principle of +the Land Bill then under discussion as far as interference with the law +of contract--"the very foundation of social life"--was involved. Glen +Cove is a beautiful place, standing high above the level of the sea, +and commanding charming views of the sound and of the opposite shore. +It is surrounded by trees, ornamented by woodland and fine natural +groves, broken up by ravines, through which trickle streams of water. +The mansion is furnished with every comfort and luxury, and we had a +garden to saunter about in the morning, and a genial hostess to talk +to, and her fair daughter to sing for us, so that it would have pleased +us well to have made a longer sojourn at Glen Cove. Here we passed two +very peaceful days, part of Wednesday and Thursday, and in a pleasant +drive with our host in the early morning had some slight outlook on +umbrageous Long Island. "_O! si angulus iste!_" It is 115 miles long +and 14 miles broad, and quite big enough for me! And there be deer +in the woods and trout in the rivers, and fish in all the creeks, +and game in the wooded lagoons, and forest, lake, and civilised life, +and many things to please the eye; and then the comet was so good as +to display his glories and his tail before Glen Cove. But our time +of departure from the States was drawing near, and there were still +things to be done in New York, and many engagements to be kept, ere we +started on our homeward journey on July 2nd; and at 12.35 on the 30th +June the Duke and I took the "cars" at a rural station, and reached +New York at 2.35, in time for a run through Tiffany's and some little +shopping and visiting. There was a dinner arranged by "Uncle Sam" at +"Sutherland's" in honour of the famous city restaurant. The house is +one of a type which has, I believe, disappeared in the "City," where +once flourished famous establishments such as Williams' Beef Shop +in the Old Bailey, Dolly's in Paternoster Row, the Billingsgate Fish +Ordinary, Jacquet's, &c., like it in character. Great New Yorkers do +not disdain to cross the threshold, within which they find admirable +fare and excellent wines--the national delights of clam chowder, clam +soup, soft-shell crabs, and many other Transatlantic delicacies--at +the far end of Broadway, still holding its own against the fashionable +restaurants. Of the party who dined there with Chancellor Robertson +and others in 1861, only "Uncle Sam," Mr. S. Barlow, and I survive; but +the host, a granitic sort of man, with a kindly Scottish heart warming +the case inside, seems capable of presiding over his feasts for another +generation. + +_July 1st._--It was difficult to realise the idea that this was our +last day in America, but the truth was forced on us by the practical +duties of getting the baggage ready and settling up generally, ending +with a dinner at the Turf Club, where we met Mr. Keene, of Foxhall +fame, who had also entertained us at Newport, Mr. Jerome, Mr. Stuart, +Mr. Travers, and other fathers of the New York sporting world, which +seems very like our own, and had to drink madeira of all but fabulous +antiquity and excellence. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +RETURN TO EUROPE. + + The "_City of Berlin_"--The Inman Line--The Service at Roche's + Point--Queenstown Discomforts--A sorry Welcome Home. + + +_July 2nd._[B]--Up at 5.30. The Duke, Lady Green, Sir Henry, Mr. +Wright, Edward, all engaged in the transport department, with Mr. +Trowbridge in observation; incessant activity. The Queen Anne coach +was in readiness at 7.30, and in half an hour more we were discharged +at the Inman wharf. There was a great flotilla--five large steamers +leaving at the same period for Liverpool, and there was the usual +throng at the landing-places of friends to bid "good-bye" to those who +were about to cross the Atlantic. The steamer we had selected belonged +to the Inman line, and whatever there may have been wanting to the eye +on board, compared to the trimness and paint of the Cunard steamers, +there was nothing to regret in our accommodation or service. There were +so many passengers that the dining-saloon, illuminated by the electric +light--which was also used for the purpose of lighting the engine-room +and the lamps in the corridors--would not contain them all at the same +time, and so there were two messes for dinner. Epergnes filled with the +most beautiful flowers were ranged in order, and a rampant war-steed +composed of white roses was displayed on the table. I am not about to +give a log-book, or to trespass on the patience of my readers by an +account of such an ordinary event as a passage home. The second day +after we left New York was the anniversary of Independence, July 4th, +and the day was duly celebrated by the citizens of the United States, +who constituted the large majority of our fellow-passengers. The "stars +and stripes" were hoisted at the main, and the cabin was draped with +British and American flags. But there was no speechifying, and the +spread-eagle was content with moderate flights; a recitation and a song +or two, and the fire of champagne corks, being the only indications of +an extraordinary festivity. + +About this time of the year the Atlantic, in the latitudes which +we traverse, is rather vexed of fogs; and if one be disposed to low +spirits, I know nothing which weighs upon him more than the sound of +the fog-horn. But what must it be for the captain, who is perforce +obliged to go at full speed, or as near to it as he can, with the +expectation every moment of some startled cry from the bow "Sail right +ahead!" Nor is it quite out of the running that an iceberg may be +taking a sail across his course. Fortunately we had no experiences of +the kind; and as night was falling on the 10th July land was in sight. + +The lights of the Fastnet were seen through drifting haze, and about 10 +o'clock at night the "_City of Berlin_" steamed through a rising sea, +with a strong beam wind, into the roadstead of Roche's Point, burned +her rockets, and laid-to for the steamer to take the mails, and those +passengers who had decided to land, on shore. + +It was blowing freshly, and rain fell heavily; and as we looked down +from the lighted decks on the murky water, and made out the tug as +she paddled up to us, rising and falling on the waves, we were seized +with reasonable misgivings as to the propriety of leaving our ship and +taking to such a craft. I am bound to say that our experience more than +amply justified them. + +I am writing these lines with a very faint hope that any amendment +will be introduced, in consequence of what I say, into the abominable +service between the American vessels off Roche's Point and Queenstown. +In fine weather and in daylight it is not of much consequence, perhaps, +what discomfort one may be exposed to in a short passage to the +shore; but to affront women and children with the misery which must be +experienced at night time and in bad weather, in the steamers employed +in the service, is little short of barbarous, if it be not indeed +altogether so. + +After I had got down upon the deck of the little steamer and surveyed +the scene around me, I thought that it would have been much wiser to +have gone on with my friends to Liverpool; but I had some engagements +in Ireland, and so had the experience I was glad not to share with +my fellow-passengers, on whom I should have liked the old country +to have made a favourable impression. There was the great steamer, +with hundreds of waving hands, and the sound of friendly voices +bidding us "God speed," a blaze of lights, and almost as steady as +the solid earth, as the horrible little tug puffed away, and, getting +from under her lee at once, encountered the swell. If she could have +ridden over the water below, she certainly could not escape that which +came down from above; so that we were all pretty wet and cross and +miserable in the half-hour which elapsed before we reached the shore. +Fortunately, there were not many passengers who availed themselves +of the opportunity; but the deck of the steamer was crowded by poor +people returning to their native country. Accommodation for the +cabin passengers, except seats on the wet and sloppy decks, there was +none. There was a little cabin, stuffy and comfortless, and moreover +occupied by a couple of women who had come out to see friends by way +of a pleasure excursion, and who were suffering the last extremities +of sea-sickness. The spray broke over the luggage and passengers; +it was in such circumstances that the custom-house officers began +their search. One of them, opening my bag, which was unlocked, found +a small revolver. It was unloaded, and there was no ammunition for +it; but, nevertheless, it was seized, for I was "importing arms into +a proclaimed district without licence." A similar mishap occurred to +a Spanish officer, who was not quite so easily appeased as I was by +the assurance that the arm would be given up on proper application +to the police. His revolver, he insisted, was part of his uniform, a +necessity of his existence, and the authorities might as well seize +his epaulettes or spurs. However, my deadly weapon was restored to me +some days afterwards, after a correspondence with the custom-house, +and I dare say the Hidalgo was equally fortunate. These were incidents +to denote that we were in the midst of trouble. There was but a sorry +welcome for us when we landed at Queenstown. Not a car to be found, +that I could see; but there were a few porters, and the agent of the +hotel at the pier; and, commending my luggage to his care, I walked to +the establishment. It surely cannot be quite an unaccustomed event for +a steamer to arrive at Queenstown at that time of night! The last train +for Cork had gone; and it might have been expected that lighted rooms +and some sort of preparation would have awaited the travellers; for +every vessel that touches at Queenstown, coming from America, surely +lands a few people needing rest and refreshment? A demoralised waiter, +who appeared to think that such a thing had never happened in the +whole course of his experience, as the inroad of ten or twelve people +asking for supper and bedrooms, informed us that nothing could be done +until the gentleman who represented the hotel at the landing-place had +arrived; and so we sat on the stairs for half an hour, and were then +shown into a gaunt room, dimly lighted by gas. There was nothing ready. +The hungry people, by dint of patience and perseverance, eventually +succeeded about midnight in obtaining some poor substitute for supper +and scrambled to their beds. + +I mention the circumstances in which my fellow-passengers and I were +landed at Queenstown, that those who are interested in promoting +the welfare of the port, and in making the route through Ireland +less thoroughly objectionable, may take steps to obviate the great +inconvenience to which travellers at present are certainly exposed. + +Next morning I reached Mallow. I was but a few hours in the +"distressful country," but I found that things had gone from bad to +worse while we were in the States. I heard from my fellow-travellers +in the train that "Boycotting" had attained such a pitch in the South, +that all the relations and conditions of social life were exposed +to peril, if not destruction. And still, with the usual cheerfulness +of Irish landlords, accustomed, as it were, to these excesses of the +popular will, my informants talked of hunting, fishing, and shooting; +and I heard full accounts of the state of the rivers, and of the take +of fish which had made some of them happy. The County Cork, indeed, +had nearly a parallel in the "wild West." But what a contrast between +the state of public feeling, in respect to the outrages which were +perpetrated in each, in the country we had left, and that to which +I had returned! In the United States there was no attempt to justify +the men who were guilty of such deeds. In Ireland it was impossible to +obtain evidence or to convict the offenders. I am not going to close +this narrative of our little excursion with a political disquisition, +indeed I have not the materials for forming any opinion respecting the +breadth and depth of what may be called the Irish national movement in +the United States; but there seems to be a general vague impression +in America that as the British Government was not very wise and +equitable in its dealings with the people of the thirteen colonies +in the reign of King George, it is, somehow or other, at the present +moment, treating with harshness and injustice the whole of the Irish +race in Ireland. It is impossible not to recognise the fact that the +head, perhaps the heart, and certainly the purse of this development of +Irish discontent are in the United States. The arms, the body, and the +legs are in Ireland. During the whole time of our visit, although we +visited towns where eminent orators were lecturing upon Irish subjects, +and where representatives of the League were in session, there was not +a trace brought home to us of the strong sympathy which undoubtedly +exists in many American cities with the movement in Ireland. There +were accounts of the meetings in the newspapers, and now and then a few +leading articles on the subject; but we might have concluded, from what +we saw and heard generally, that the Irish question was of far less +importance to the American people than the religious views of Colonel +Ingersoll, or the discussions between the railway companies respecting +their fares. The recital of wrongs, most of which have been long ago +redressed, still reaches the ear and touches the heart of the American +public, and if the Irish population had not in many ways provoked or +excited the antagonism of the native Americans in the towns, and of +the Teutonic element which exercises such a powerful influence in +the country, there would be far greater sympathy for the supposed +oppression of the Sister Island by England. The fact that emigrants +come from Europe is accepted as a proof that the countries which they +leave are ill-governed; and Americans, in dealing with the emigration +question, are apt to forget the existence and nature of the forces +which induced their own ancestors to seek homes in the New World. + +The _New York Times_ declared in an article last June, that there is no +essential difference between the two divisions of the Irish in America +and of the Irish in Ireland. The voyage across the Atlantic works no +transformation in Pat, and he is still as much an Irishman after his +plunge into an alien civilisation and taking out his papers as when +he stood on the old sod in Meath or Tipperary. "He cares no more for +the American eagle than for an owl; but a sprig of shamrock stirs him +to ecstasy. The name of Washington has no meaning for his ear; but +that of St. Patrick is a living and potent reality." That statement, +however, must be taken with qualification. There are to-day 90,000 +acres of land in Minnesota as thoroughly Irish as if they were planted +in the centre of Connaught. There are Pats and Pats. Many of the most +wealthy and prosperous merchants, bankers, and landowners whom we met +in the West were not merely of Irish extraction, but born Irishmen, +and the extraordinary spectacle of Irish millionaires who knew how to +keep their money, and to add to it, too, may be seen in San Francisco +and elsewhere in the West. Many, less fortunate, have high positions +either in the army, or as politicians, or in the estimation of all +that is great and good in America--such as Mr. O'Conor--men who have +held aloof from politics, and who could not be tempted, even by the +Presidentship, to enter the arena of party strife. One convicted rebel +of 1840 now occupies a leading place at the American bar. I heard him +denounce the Land Bill in terms he might have used in denouncing the +atrocities of the Saxon in his hot days when O'Connell was king. The +influence which has been acquired in many parts of the Union by the +Irish immigration and by the descendants of immigrants has naturally +excited at various times the opposition and indignation of the American +born, and it has always been more or less opposed by the Teutons of +different nationalities who occupy such a powerful position in all +the great States of the West. But "the Native Party" is now either +dead or sleeping. A very distinguished officer and politician said +to me that he had at one time been a most eager and ardent adherent +of the policy of the Native American Party, but that when he saw how +earnestly and devotedly the Irish had come forward in defence of the +Union, how brilliantly they had fought, and how recklessly they had +sacrificed their lives, in 1861, he felt constrained to abandon his +principles, and to admit their free right to all the privileges of +American citizenship. I could not, however, but recollect that General +Richard Taylor, in his most amusing, able, and graphic work on that +same war, from the Confederate side of the question, bore the strongest +testimony to the services of the Irish in the army which fought under +the banner of the Slave States. In New York and in San Francisco +the Irish element has exercised almost supreme control in municipal +matters, and it may be said, without offence I hope, that, whether +it be owing to the opposition they have encountered or to a radical +deficiency which may be Irish rather than Celtic, their management has +not conduced to the comfort of the cities or to the pecuniary purity +of the Executive. In San Francisco there is a strong anti-Irish press +and much anti-Irish feeling. The 'Argonaut' repudiates the thraldom of +the Irish associations and factions in the Far West as strenuously as +the 'Times' and 'Tribune' do in the East. But notwithstanding all that +may be written and done, it is impossible to resist the influence of +numbers under a system of suffrage so large as that which exists in +the greater number of the American States. It was curious to read in +a Californian paper an appeal to England to suppress Irish agitation. +"We confidently believe," says the _Argonaut_, "that the wisdom of +its public men, the healthful condition of its public opinion, and +the strength of its military power will be sufficient to crush out the +Land League movement, which is but incipient rebellion. That England +will deal justly, firmly, and successfully with this effort of united +ecclesiasticism and Communism is the earnest wish of every intelligent +and independent mind that believes in free government, the guarantees +of property, the rights, and the personal liberty of man." However, +there are American parties, if not statesmen, whose wishes are by no +means directed to such a consummation, and we must take note of the +fact. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +SOME GENERAL REFLECTIONS. + + Education--Free Schools--Influence of Money in + Politics--Corruption in Public Life--Crime on the Western + Borders--The Great Rebellion--Anniversaries--Great courtesy to + strangers--Manners and Customs. + + "Westward the course of Empire takes its way; + The four first acts already past, + A fifth shall close the drama with the day, + Time's noblest offspring is the last." + + +The "tar-water Bishop of Cloyne" would have been exceedingly astonished +could he have seen the first line of his prophecy or averment made to +do duty as a motto to Mr. Bancroft's History of the United States; but +surely if the prophecy be not realised, it will be the fault of the +agencies engaged in working it out--never in the history of mankind, +as we know it, have such advantages been enjoyed by any nation as have +been, and are, the appanage of the Americans of European origin in +the New World. They have leaped into the possession of their heritage +full armed, like Minerva from the brain of Jove. For them have all +the champions of human rights died or conquered, and the protagonists +of human struggles for liberty and light fought. For them Science has +trimmed her lamp--for them martyrs have died--for them Europe and Asia +have been in toil and travail for countless generations, and they have +been guided across the sea to a grand continent where it would seem as +if Nature had been engaged for myriads of ages to provide for their +happiness and grandeur--all climes and all products are theirs--the +bounteous plain, the ore-filled mountain, the treasures of the deep, +the heaven-made ways by lake and river, and it would be a despair for +all mankind if they misuse their glorious inheritance, and if all the +nations of the world see that the pillar of fire in the west was but +an _ignis fatuus_ dancing before their aching eyes in a Serbonian bog +of creeds and 'isms, of factions and faiths, all struggling towards +the gate of the Temple of Mammon. "Philosophers," in all the doubts and +fears which the condition of the Republic inspires at times, cling with +confidence to the palladium which is, they think, to be found in the +system of education based on the free schools of the States. If there +were not a distinction between knowledge and morality, they would be +justified; but the Evil One tempted us to eat of the fruit of the tree +which brought sin into the world, and if Americans are to be trusted +as authorities, the result of the largest and most liberal system of +education ever devised is not as happy in practice as it ought to be +according to theory. + +As the central Government extended its sway over the Territories there +was a uniform system, when assigning land for public objects to railway +companies, of retaining for the School Fund a portion of the land +in each Territory, as it was settled and admitted as such, under the +control of the central Government. In the States Constitutions creating +Sovereign States, there are provisions inserted, varying very little in +language and not at all in spirit, which render it compulsory on the +Legislature of each State to maintain public schools free to all the +children of the people residing within its borders. Another principle, +of universal application, provided that all schools under public +control should be free from sectarian or denominational teaching, in +the schools or in the books used for educational purposes. With such +safeguards for the extension of education, it is depressing to find +that, in certain districts at all events, crime and immorality prevail +in the United States as extensively as in the benighted kingdoms of the +Continent of Europe. But the most serious consideration in connection +with the system of common schools in America, is the fact that serious +doubts are intruding themselves respecting the success of it. In a +recent official report it was stated that whereas the children who +ought to go to school numbered about fourteen and a half millions, the +average attendance was not more than five millions. But, assuming that +all the children went to school, there are people who declare that the +education given under the National system is by no means satisfactory. +Mr. R. G. White affirms that the system is a failure; and high +authorities assert that "any comparison between the results obtained +in the public schools of New York, Cincinnati, and Boston, with those +of such public grammar schools of England, as Bedford, Manchester, and +the City of London, is simply ridiculous." The teachers are continually +shifting, and when the teachers, as they do in this land of liberty, +go away, the schools are deserted, the constant services of a staff +cannot be retained unless there is very considerable increase in the +rate of payment now made to the male and female teachers. None of these +in any State have, I think, more than about 9_l._ per month. Mr. White +says that "the mass of the pupils of the public schools are unable to +read intelligently, to spell correctly, to write legibly, to describe +the geography of their own country, or do anything that reasonably well +educated children do with ease; and they cannot write a simple letter, +they cannot do readily a simple sum in practical arithmetic, they +cannot tell the meaning of any but the commonest of words they read and +spell so ill. They can give rules glibly, they can recite from memory, +they have some dry knowledge of the various ologies and osophies, +they can, some of them, read a little French or German with very bad +accent; but, as to all real education, they are as helpless and as +barren as if they had never crossed the threshold of a schoolhouse." +It is from American writers that these accusations against the common +school system are to be gleaned. Some statisticians say that crime and +pauperism are increasing far more rapidly than population. The charge +on the State for punishing criminals and keeping paupers last year was +$20,000,000, or L4,000,000; but it is too much to attribute crime and +pauperism to the defects of the schools. It might with more reason be +argued that the teaching of the people in the schools tends to develop +the looseness and eccentricity of thought, where there is no religious +teaching, which are exemplified in the uprising of extraordinary sects +and strange philosophies; for America is the land of spiritualists, +mesmerism, soothsaying, and mystical congregations. Mr. Hepworth Dixon +may not be a perfectly unimpeachable authority on the subject of the +number of spiritualists in America; but there can be no question they +are to be counted by millions. It is averred that believers in spirits +generally believe in "special affinities which imply a spiritual +relation of the sexes higher and holier than that of marriage." It is +not wonderful then that there should be also a very large number of +divorces, especially in the New England States. Mr. Nutting says that +"in the history of nations there has never but thrice occurred such +a breaking up of the family tie as is now taking place, especially in +Rhode Island and Connecticut, among the people of New England blood." +Mormonism, although of American origin and early growth, has been +mainly successful by the constant importation of ignorant peasants from +Europe. + +There is a want of reverence on the part of children towards their +parents which is very striking. Americans who have admitted and +deplored this have sought to account for it by the school system, +wherein the State usurps the place of the parent, and teaches the young +idea to mock at any authority but that of the schoolmaster. It would be +lamentable to have to admit that free education is associated with the +weakening of parental influence. Theoretically, there is nothing in the +American system to prevent the teaching of religious and moral duties +by parents at home; but it would seem as if very little of that kind +of instruction was given by the busy fathers and anxious mothers of the +Republic, and that when the day's work is done at school, and some time +given to the preparation of the studies for the day to follow, there is +no further teaching. + +I do not think the rule "By their fruits shall ye know them" can be +applied to the public schools, in connection with the prevalence of +crime, immorality, unbelief, or eccentric religion. But it is certain +the system has not by any means secured that high level of general +education, or what education is supposed to bring with it, which its +friends claim for it in the States. There is reason to believe that +the standard of morality has not been uniformly high in the political +world, and that in the public intelligence the judiciary does not +aspire to an absolute immunity from suspicion. Even in the old settled +States, legislators from time to time may be found, who, seated among +the good and wise, excite admiration akin to that which is aroused by +the spectacle of a fly in amber. It has been observed by travellers +that whatever affection may exist in families, it does not attain that +keen sensibility and lasting power which is found in French domestic +life. + +When American newspapers of the greatest influence and circulation +write invectives against the corruption which prevails in places +high and low, when writers of great intelligence and known character +contribute similar articles to periodicals which possess the highest +position in the literary world of America, a stranger may be permitted +perhaps to say a few words respecting the impression produced upon +his mind by what he heard and read on the subject when he was in +the country, without it being alleged that he attempts to assail +the principles of free government, or to make invidious charges or +wholesale accusations against a nation. I know too well the force with +which Americans could retort if they were so minded, and how they could +point to the reports of election judges which set forth the prevalence +of extensive bribery, led to the suspension of writs, and will perhaps +end in the disfranchisement of some ancient and populous boroughs and +constituencies in England, and to the speeches of Sir Henry James in +Parliament, to cast any stone out of my glass house on that score; +but I do not think it can be established that persons in a position +at all analogous to that of the members of a State Legislature have +been purchased wholesale in England, Ireland or Scotland, or that even +a complete Borough Corporation had been bought up. Now, nothing was +more common in the Far West than to hear it stated openly that Senator +So-and-so had bought his place, and that Mr. So-and-so had purchased +a State Legislative body in order to "get through" some railway or +other scheme. That was accepted in fact as a matter of course, and +not contradicted or questioned by any one. We heard from time to time +of the sums which So-and-so would expend to buy his senatorship, and +of the money actually paid to secure the passage of a line from the +legislature of O---- and the like, whilst stories relating to the +purchase of judges were common in the conversation of the hotels and +cars. + +I do not aver that these stories were true. I only know that they +passed current and were not challenged by those who were around us. +"Thoughtful persons," who exist in the United States as well as in +the vicinity of Pall Mall clubs, lament, deplore and hate the evils +of growing corruption with all the fervour of honest and powerless +natures. The mechanism is scarcely concealed. It stands before the +world with less attempt at disguise than the gallows in the gaol. Mr. +Parton, in the 'North American Review' of this July, writing on the +power of public plunder, says: "At present, in the ninety-fifth year +of the Constitution, we are face to face with a state of politics of +extreme simplicity, of which money is the motive, the means and the +end. What was the last Presidential election but a contest of purses? +The longest purse carried the day, and it carried the day because it +was the longest. Some innocent readers perhaps have wondered why the +famous orators who swayed vast multitudes day after day and night after +night, have not been recognised in the distribution of office. They +were paid in cash from ten dollars a night to a thousand dollars a +week." And then he goes on to describe the business in detail, and to +show what this power is. He says: "There is a boss in the city of New +York who will take a contract for putting a gentleman into Congress. +Pay him so much and you may go to sleep, wake up and find yourself +member elect. A boss is a man who can get to the polls on election +days masses of voters who care little or nothing for the issues of the +campaign and know of them still less. They operate upon the strangers +in the land who are unable to use its language and are unacquainted +with its politics." Mr. Parton describes with humour one of these +"bosses," an improvement on the pugilists and cormorant thieves of a +remote period. "The Emerald Isle gave him birth; the streets of New +York, education. To see the brawny, good-tempered Irishman walking +abroad in his district when politics are active is to get an idea +of how the chief of a clan strode his native heath when a marauding +expedition was on foot. He lives in a handsome house, and has more +property than any man has ever been able to get by legitimate service +to the United States. He treats his dependants and retainers nobly, but +as the agent and organiser of spoliation he is a prey to every minor +scoundrel, for at certain seasons he dare not say no to any living +creature. And yet it requires tact, self-possession and resource to +move about among needy people with a pocket full of money, an embodied +"yes," and have some of it left after the election. The strikers, as +they are called, go for solid cash now instead of target companies and +clambakes for which the candidates paid the bills." "Money, money," +exclaims Mr. Parton, "everywhere in politics, in prodigal abundance, +money, except where it could secure and reward good service for the +public, hecatombs for the wolves, precarious bones for the watchdogs." +The details in the article are precise, and if they are to be trusted +it may be doubted whether the claims of the United States to possess +a cheap government can be maintained, for it is not cheap to pay +responsible executive officers a precarious pittance per annum if +now and then it costs a million dollars to change them. Mr. Secretary +Blaine has thrice declared that the election in October 1880 in the +State of Maine, a model New England State, was carried by money. His +opponents declared that he and his party were as bad, and that they +too flooded the towns with money. What renders the situation more +dangerous is the fact that the men who provide the money for running +these enormously expensive political combinations are either seekers +after, or holders of, office, and the inference is that they seek to +control Government, or, as Mr. Parton puts it, that "the Government +is coming to be rather an appendage to a circle of wealthy operators +than a restraint upon them." That is indeed a serious proposition, and +the result of observation goes to support the idea that it is valid. +The small man is in office, but the big man, his master, is outside. +The mischief is brought prominently forward in connection with the +sale of public lands in the North-West, which have been claimed as the +heritage of the people, and indeed of all the nations of the world. The +government land attracted the hardy labour of all countries, covering +the western west with thriving towns and populous counties. But now +the prairies are skinned by rich men, by "land-grabbers," people who +buy up tracts of twenty thousand or thirty thousand acres wherever +they can lay their hands upon them, evading the law and filling the +western world with roving labourers who work on these prodigious farms +in summer and starve in winter. This is, we are told, the result of +"government by lobby." + +Occasionally there is an exceeding great and bitter cry over all this +from the depths of the body politic. Some great paper in a moment of +deep mental agony publishes an article like that, to which I have +called attention, by Mr. Parton; occasionally some preacher, nobly +daring, thinks it necessary to direct attention, from his pulpit, to +the progress of corruption. Dr. Talmage delivered a very remarkable +discourse whilst I was in America on the text from Job. xv. 34: "Fire +shall consume the tabernacles of bribery." Although I do not profess +exactly to understand to what particular sect he belongs, he is one of +the leaders of religious thought, dividing with Beecher and others the +popular favour in the Empire City. The State buildings at Albany ought +to be heavily insured if the reverend gentleman's vaticinations are +right. It was an American discourse. I cannot give the whole oration. +The people of the Brooklyn Tabernacle were presented with a muster-roll +of the people who had distinguished themselves amongst the great ones +of the world. Cobden, Brougham, O'Connell and Rowland Hill were placed +in juxtaposition as leaders on our side of the water. Of course it was +impossible to resist the allusion to Francis Bacon and to Macclesfield; +but it was scarcely correct to say that the Lord Chancellor +Whiteberry--I presume a misprint for Westbury--"perished," nor do I +quite understand what the preacher meant by the awful tragedy of the +_Credit Mobilier_. Washington, Ben Butler, and John McClean were linked +together for the benefit of Americans. They were, Dr. Talmage declared, +great politicians, but "out of politics there has come one monstrous +sin, potent and pestiferous, its two hands rotten with leprosy, +its right hand deep in its breeches pocket. This is bribery." Dr. +Talmage called upon the American people to judge the crime. "Under the +temptation of this sin," he exclaimed, "Benedict Arnold sold the fort +in the Highlands for thirty-one thousand three hundred and seventy-five +dollars; Gorgy betrayed Hungary, Ahitophel forsook David, Judas killed +Christ. I think," he says, "when I see the strong men who have gone +down, of the Red Dragon in Revelation, having seven heads and ten +horns, and seven crowns upon its head, drawing the third part of the +stars of heaven after it." And therefore he proceeds to preach against +bribery. He thought it was the right time, "because the Legislature +in New York is busy in investigating charges of bribery. The whole +country woke up in holy horror at the charge that two thousand dollars +had been offered to influence a vote in the Legislature, as if this +was something new; as though in one State nine hundred and seventy-five +thousand dollars had not been paid a legislator of the State Government +by a railway company to get its charter and secure a dedication of +public lands; as though three-quarters of the legislators of the United +States had not, through bribery, gone into putrefaction whose stench +reached heaven. After a few weeks' hunting the squirrel has stolen the +hickory nut. Gentlemen in New York hunt out wrong by day and play poker +and old sledge at night at Delavan House. It was like the country which +had spent six millions of dollars in lawsuits about William Tweed going +suddenly into hysterics when it found out that he had stolen a box of +steel pens. California is submerged in the grip of a great monopoly; in +Kansas United States senators had been involved in charges of bribery; +in Connecticut an election to Congress was bought as men might buy +a box of strawberries. Last year they were convicted of attempting +bribery in Pennsylvania, but the Court of Pardons liberated them with +the exception of two judges, who were told that they would be cut off +from political preferment for their obstinacy. A Pennsylvania United +States senator used to put a price on legislators just as a Kentuckian +puts a price on his horse." But it was not legislators alone that Dr. +Talmage attacked. He declared that the railways, the common carriers +of the country, were tainted by a favouritism which was, in fact, +the result of bribery. One company made rebates in its fares to some +favoured corporation, as in the case of a petroleum company, which +was enabled to control the price of that light all over the world in +consequence of a virtual monopoly that was given to it by arrangement +with the railway. In the same way merchandise in grain, provisions, +and cattle are placed in the hands of a few firms. "How much," asks +Dr. Talmage, "did it cost the Elevated Railroad to keep the fare from +dropping to five cents from ten cents? I have been told," said he, +"three hundred thousand dollars," which is 60,000_l._ "Very seldom +does a bill pass through any of our Legislatures if there be no money +in it. Sometimes the bribery is in bank bills, sometimes in railroad +passes, sometimes in political preferment, sometimes by the monopolies +given to the legislators, what are called points, a corner, a flier, a +cover, washing the street, salting down, ten up! If you want to know +what these are, ask the bribed members at Albany and Harrisburg." +Then he goes on, with some truth, to declare that the bribery begins +far away behind all this; that it is really with the money subscribed +for election expenses that the evil begins its course. "From the big +reservoirs of subscribed election expenses the little rills roll down +in ten thousand directions, and by the time the great gubernatorial, +congressional, and presidential elections are over, the land is drunk +with bribery." Perhaps it is quite as well that it is from an American +orator and from an American writer such statements and such indictments +proceed, rather than from a stranger like myself; but it is very clear +that the evil which De Tocqueville indicated long ago has spread rather +than diminished, and there is reason to think that it will do so until +the public conscience of a great people is aroused to a sense of the +enormity of the mischief. But it lies far down towards the base of +the national institutions, and any attempt to extirpate it will fail +until the doctrines of the "Spoils to the Victors" be rejected from the +political catechism, and the interests of party made the means and not +the end of political life. + +The letters which appeared in the _Morning Post_, written under +the influence of the surprise and anger I felt at the extent and +impunity of crimes of violence and the state of feeling, or want of +it, respecting them in the West, were badly received in America, and +were severely handled by a few papers, as I was informed; I expected +that the mention of the subject would not prove agreeable, though +I guarded myself most sedulously from a single offensive word--nay, +went out of my way to palliate the offences against life and living, +and to excuse the people who allowed them, whilst I most carefully +drew the line--a broad one--between these border ruffians and the +law-abiding, virtuous people of the settled States. I was not, however, +prepared for misrepresentation. One would have thought that I accused +the kind hosts who had received us--our generous entertainers in +so many cities--the courteous, polished gentlemen who accompanied +us--of murder and robbery, and ascribed to them the brutal murders +committed by Canty or the Kid. As I quoted chapter and verse, and as +the papers which vilified me could not deny the statements, they wrote +that I had been imposed upon by the vivid fancy--in other phrase, +the deliberate lying--of their brother editors in the West. One organ +had the effrontery to declare that the Duke of Sutherland expressed +his delight at the kind and courteous treatment of the ruffians I +denounced; adding, "somebody lied--it was not the Duke." No. It was not +indeed! A friend sent me one of these, and below an article in which it +was said that I might take my place "beside Basil Hall, Mrs. Trollope, +and Dickens for libelling the people of the United States," and that +my stories were all inventions, there was a pregnant commentary as +follows:--"Sunday, July 17th: Daring Train Robbery; Bandits Boarding +Chicago, Rock Island, and Pacific Cars; The Conductor and a Passenger +Shot Dead, and the Safe in the Express Car Robbed; the Passengers Saved +by a Brakeman." + +I hope it will not be imagined that I have any desire to cast obloquy +on the grand efforts, supremely successful as they have been, to +turn the prairie and the desert to the uses of civilised man and +of the world, and to open up the Western Continent to humanity and +civilisation. I am too sensible of the courtesy, ready service, and +hospitality everywhere accorded to the party of English travellers +of which I was one, to write one word which I thought calculated to +give pain or offence to any of our many friends or to any right-minded +American. _Maculae solis!_ 'Tis a pity they are there! In a few years, +perhaps, the memory that such things were will have passed away like +the recollection of some evil dream. But public sentiment must make +itself felt, and above all there must be some abatement of the maudlin +sympathy, which is virtually on the side of crime, if it be active in +averting punishment. + +Crime in America, especially in the Eastern States, is very much +the same as it is in other countries, but in the far West there is +more recklessness in dealing with human life, which, in spite of the +Howard Society and of humanitarians, I believe to be connected with +the indulgence extended under State laws by American judges and juries +to criminals who appear to be deserving of nothing but the strict +and unmitigated application of the rope. "Property" is safe, for the +citizens hunt down with extraordinary energy marauders whose object is +simply plunder. Ordinary robbers and gangs of burglars are speedily +and summarily suppressed. It is otherwise with those who assail life +and limb. The desperadoes who infest the "saloons," as they are called, +with which every western settlement is sure to be provided as soon as +the shingle roofs are placed on the earliest upheaval of deal planks +which can be called a dwelling, have far greater immunity and freedom +than burglars or robbers. Wherever the train stopped for water on +our journey in New Mexico, Western Colorado, or Eastern California, a +rectangular wooden box, with a verandah, open doors, windows screened +by a muslin curtain, perhaps a flagstaff with the Stars and Stripes +flying, a large signboard, and some high-sounding name--the "Grand +Alliance," "Union League," "El Dorado," "Harmonium," "Arcadia," or +the like--was visible, with the usual group of booted and bearded +miners, and their horses hitched up at the door-posts in front; inside +you would be certain to find men of the same class at a bar, behind +which, known for miles around, the affable Charlie, Bill, or Bob was +dispensing drinks and mixing cocktails, slings, and the other drinks, +in which the badness of the spirit is artfully disguised by a stimulant +of a more active character and more pronounced flavour, known as +"bitters," and kept in subjugation by the liberal use of ice. For even +in these burning regions ice is stored up as the one thing needful. The +rudest miner is accustomed to it; iced drinks are consumed by classes +in America far below the social level of those who never taste them in +this country. + +As the train was halting at Colorado Springs the stewards engaged +in an animated discussion respecting a certain erection of poles and +rafters just visible in an adjacent field. "I tell you dat's it." "I +say tidn't." They were discussing the probability of the scaffolding +being the gallows whereon "Canty, the Buena Vista murderer," was to be +hanged the day after. On April 29th, last year, Mr. Canty was standing +on the platform in front of Lake-house with "Johnny the Ham," "Curly +Frank," and "Off Wheeler," when Thomas Perkins appeared in an alley +opposite, endeavouring "to induce 'Dutch Bill' to go with him to the +office of Justice Casey, who had deputised him for the purpose." Canty +and his companions at once ran across and demanded his release. Before +Perkins could answer, Canty fired and missed him. The second shot +wounded Perkins in the arm; the latter drew his pistol, but before he +could use it Canty fired; the ball shattered the constable's hand. "For +God's sake," he exclaimed, "is there no policeman to help me?" He fell, +and Canty, walking close to his side, coolly sent a bullet through +his body. He was arrested, tried, and convicted. His counsel applied +to the Supreme Court for a _supersedeas_, but the court, after solemn +argument, refused the application. Then they applied to the Governor +of the State, but Mr. Pitkin, though "a weak-kneed man," would neither +grant a reprieve nor a commutation to imprisonment for life. There +was, he said, no ground "to set aside a verdict of a competent jury +and the district judge reviewed and approved of by the Supreme Court." +In the very last hour a woman came forward, and the Denver paper gave +_verbatim et literatim_ the text of the document in which ... "with dew +regard," she offered Sheriff Spangler $50,000 (10,000_l._) to save the +life of W. H. Canty, her cousin, whose real name was, she said, N. H. +Salisbury. "I entreat you to have him spared till you have an interview +with me." She added that "Jennings and his brother in Leadville would +pay a still larger sum. You may have ample means for life," &c. A +gentleman of the press, who came into our train at South Arkansas, +was present at the execution. Just before the drop fell, Canty, who +had expressed complete confidence in his ultimate liberation till the +day before his execution, spoke for fifteen minutes, protesting his +innocence. Then he exclaimed, "Good-bye, nothing can save me. I have +faith in the Saviour and a hereafter." The trap was sprung, but to the +horror of every one, the rope broke at the beam. The murderer's neck, +however, was dislocated, and "a happy relief was experienced" when +it was found he had died a painless death. As he was the nephew of an +eminent statesman it was expected his friends would take action as to +the disposal of his remains, which were put "in a neat casket at the +sheriff's expense." In the journal there was a woodcut of the murderer. +"Before his likeness could be taken holes were bored in the door and +Canty was lashed to it, and then, when the door was set upright, the +photographer watched a favourable opportunity when the head and eyes +were quiet and secured the impression" from which the engraving was +made. He was not so fortunate as Frank Gilbert, who was sentenced to +be hanged the following day for a brutal murder, but respited, "in +order that the proceedings may be reviewed by the highest judicial +tribunal," by Governor Pitkin at the last moment, "till July 29," the +day on which Rosencrantz is now sentenced to be hanged. The sheriff, +Judge Ward, the clerk of the court, and the prosecuting attorney +joined with others in petitions to the governor on the ground that +the Supreme Court judges had refused a _supersedeas_ in consequence of +the defects and informalities of the record of the proceedings in the +court below. Rosencrantz was respited, and the public, who had been +expecting a double execution on the 18th of June, were disappointed, +although they were allowed to slake their curiosity by the sight of the +condemned men and by testing the ropes in the prison enclosure where +the scaffold was ready. In the paper which gave the text of Governor +Pitkin's reprieve there was a heading "Done Brown. Al. Huggins, +marshal of Recene, turns out a bad man. He shoots and fatally wounds +officer Brown of Kokomo." Phil. Foote, constable of Kokomo, formerly +marshal of Robinson, and Al. Huggins, marshal of Recene, it seems had +spent the night in visiting the saloons of Kokomo, and in the early +morning began to fire their pistols and guns off in the street, and +continued to do so until Andy Sutton, marshal of Kokomo, attempted to +arrest them, but failed, "as he was quickly covered by two rifles." +Mr. Brown, a police officer, asked Huggins to put up his pistol, and, +to encourage him, proceeded to pocket his own revolver, when Huggins +took deliberate aim with a 38-calibre Colt and shot Brown in the left +breast, just above the heart. Huggins and Foote started for Recene. +The marshal of Kokomo followed quickly in pursuit, with a large body +of men. Huggins refused to surrender, whereupon the marshal shot him +in the face. As there was a movement to lynch him, Al. Huggins was +sent under strong guard to Leadville, but Foote escaped. "Brown was +not dead by last accounts, but was not expected to live long." Then +came a long account of another "Denver tragedy. Charles Stickney +murders Mr. T. Campan and Mrs. H. O. Devereux in a boarding-house." +Stickney was nephew of ex-Governor Clifford, of Rhode Island, served as +lieutenant, 20th Regiment, in the war of 1861-4, graduated at Harvard, +became principal of a school, married a lady whom he sent to London +to study music, and tried mining whilst his wife was giving music +lessons in Denver. There she met Mr. Campan, one of the best families +in Detroit; Stickney shot him and killed a woman who was in the room +at the same time. "Public opinion is in favour of Stickney, and he will +probably be reprimanded." The evening of the day we reached Leadville, +"Alderman Johnnie M'Combe, a leading candidate for lieutenant-governor +and mayor, and last spring before the people for city treasurer," +shot and wounded, probably fatally, a well-known actor named James +M'Donald, because the latter had taken some children in M'Combe's +buggy for a drive. It is not easy to determine how far Johnnie's chance +of office may be affected by this ebullition, but the newspapers did +not write of it with harshness; one gave it a comic character by the +heading, "Ex-Alderman M'Combe attempts to perforate Jemmy M'Donald's +cranium." In my morning paper of the same date I find that "James Hogan +was foully murdered by James M'Cue in the open streets of Erie this +afternoon in a quarrel about a handkerchief;" that Dr. Flemings, a +prominent citizen of Portland, Ashley County, Arkansas, had appeased +a quarrel between a pedlar named Gillmore and a coloured man very +effectually, for, "incensed by a remark made by the pedlar, the doctor +drew a pistol and shot him dead;" that "a prominent business man of +M'Leansboro' had made a sensation on the streets to-day by hunting +up, pistol in hand, one of the gay Lotharios of Hamilton County;" +that "Daniel Keller, deputy county clerk, was stabbed and killed in +the street of Virginia City by Dennis Hennessy, a kerbstone broker;" +that "a searching party under Captain Leper had overhauled Hamilton, +Myers and Brown, the outlaws who shot Sheriff Davis and Collector +Hatter at Poplar Bluff, Mo.; killed Hamilton, mortally wounded Myers, +and made Brown a prisoner;" that "James Hurd shot Jeff Anderson at +Alamosa, Col., and that it was feared the latter would not survive." +An account of the death of "Curly Bill," a notorious desperado, leader +of cowboys and murderer of Marshal White, who was killed at Caleyville, +Arizona, by his comrade, Jem Wallace, followed. They had a quarrel (of +course, in a saloon). After a few drinks "Curly Bill" said, "I guess +I will kill you on general principles." Wallace stepped out of the +saloon and immediately opened fire, inflicting a mortal wound on his +foe. After a brief hearing Wallace was discharged, and left for parts +unknown. Then it was related how "Thomas Clarey ('Tommy the Kid'), a +Durango outlaw, was killed by a comrade named Eskridge at Annego while +drunk." A fratricide and three trials for murder were duly recorded. +Another paper gave an account of South-West Colorado from the lips +of a recent visitor to San Juan County. "Are you going back to San +Juan? No, I think not; but it is a glorious country. The men there +are a little rough, and kill each other on slight provocation; but a +peaceable man who does not swagger and blow is not molested. There is +no law, and courts and constables are unknown." He narrates how Aleck +----, acting as a barkeeper, "a noble-hearted, jovial fellow, full of +fun, who looked you square in the eye, owns mines, said to be worth +a million," settled a difficulty; I am inclined to think Mr. Charles +Klunk rather drew on the interviewing reporter of the _Globe Democrat_. +He was, he said, going to see a stockman who lived about fifty miles +from the house where he was visiting. A farmer said to him "Come and +take a drink with me, and I'll show you the barkeeper who killed the +man you are going to see an hour ago." The stockman had come into +the saloon whilst Aleck was in the back room, and began to abuse him. +Aleck heard him, opened on the man with a revolver, and "shot him full +of holes. Next day I asked him what he was going to do about it, and +he said he had been tried and acquitted, which meant that some of the +leading men had told him that he had done right. There was no trial +about it. When a man kills another out there in a fight they don't +inquire very strictly into the circumstances, but make up their minds +that they can't bring the dead man to life by hanging the killer, so +nothing is done about it. But when a man murders another to rob him, +the vigilants turn out and have no mercy on him. They just fill his +skin with lead and tumble him into a hole like a wolf. After all, +though the bears are plentiful in the spring, you can kill a deer 100 +yards from the house where you like, the streams are alive with trout, +the vegetables and crops splendid." Mr. Charles Klunk's resolution not +to go back to this Happy Valley seems founded on sound constitutional +principles. What I wish to point out is the condition in which the +Central Government and State Governments have permitted many districts +of New Mexico, Colorado, and California to remain. It is plain that +the peculiar conditions under which the sway of the United States has +been extended over the regions of the Far West have rendered it very +difficult to establish the machinery for protecting life and property +and punishing crime; but I do not see that the statesmen at Washington +or the legislators at the State capitals are very much concerned at +the reign of terror which prevails on the borders, or that they seek +to impress on their people any regard for the sacredness of life. In +fact, human life is almost a drug in the market. And I write fully +sensible of the failures of our own and of all European Governments to +repress crime, to prevent violence, and to ensure security to life and +property. I am aware that Ireland and Poland are to the fore, and that +wife-beating and "running kicks" illustrate the brutality of Lancashire +and other districts--that London has its Alsatias, that every European +capital has foul recesses in which the only laws are those of crime. +All the world is busy preparing shoals of emigrants for the United +States. It is only, however, when some savage outbreak affrighting the +propriety of a great city arouses indignation and fear that there is +a clamour for measures of repression. I do not think there is in any +other part of the world, or that there ever has been in any civilised +country, such shootings as have filled the land to which I allude with +bloodshed. It may be said with truth that there never have been and +that there are not any similar conditions in the world. But the absence +of any great abiding movement for the correction and suppression of +violence and lawlessness cannot be so readily accounted for or excused. +There appears to be a sort of admiration for these border ruffians +among portions of the American Press and public. Even a staid paper +like the _Republican_, in an article headed "South-East Missouri: the +Reign of Lawlessness about Ended," on the destruction of the New Madrid +gang, writes of one who was sent to the penitentiary for thirty years +"as a living monument of a bold and brave lot of desperate men who had +started out to make money by robbing their fellow-men. This swift and +stern justice speaks well for this portion of the States, which has had +for a long time more than its full quota of these lawless characters. +Myers and Brown will be hung on the 15th July, and their execution will +be witnessed by thousands of South-East Missourians." The spectacle +of the hanging will not do much good, if it be like the execution at +Colorado Springs, which was advertised as a sort of picnic or pleasure +excursion. One advertisement ran, "After the hanging to-morrow drink +La Salle beer; it will cool your nerves." "Highway robbery here has +about run its course, and the people are determined that lawlessness +in those regions shall no longer go unwhipped of justice." Very good. +But, why not sooner and long ago? "Rhodes was hung by Judge Lynch +when captured at the killing of young Laforge in New Madrid;" but the +gang killed the sheriff and wounded the deputy-sheriff and collector +before the people arose in their majesty to squelch them. A criminal +is invested with a notoriety which, next to popular estimation, is +valued by some men, and it is noted with interest that "Gilbert" (one +pitiless murderer) is a Catholic, and that "Rosengrants" (another +homicide) "inclines towards the Episcopalians." A Leadville doctor +visits one of them to ask for his body. "No, sirree, you can't have +my body; I'll be hanged first!" And the public laugh at the lively +sally, and admire the _sangfroid_ of the wit! In fact, there is a +_tendresse_ for crime in this grim humour. A Texan who would "fill the +skin" of a stranger "with lead" for aspersing Texas would no doubt +heartily enjoy the description of the early population of the Lone +Star State, which I quote from the Texas Press. "In the early days +of the Republic, and even after annexation, many of the white men who +came here had strong sanitary reasons for a change of climate, having +been threatened with throat disease so sudden and dangerous that the +slightest delay in moving to a new and milder climate would have been +fatal, the subjects dying of dislocation of the spinal vertebrae at the +end of a few minutes--and a rope. A great many left Arkansas, Indiana, +and other States in such a hurry that they were obliged to borrow the +horses on which they rode to Texas. They mostly recovered on reaching +Austin, and many invalids began to feel better and consider themselves +out of danger as soon as they crossed the Brancos River. Some who would +not have lived twenty-four hours longer had they not left their homes +reached a green old age in Western Texas, and were never again in risk +of the bronchial affection already referred to by carefully avoiding +the causes which led to their trouble. Some at Austin recovered so +far as to be able to run for office, within a year, though defeated +by a respectable majority, owing to the atmosphere and the popularity +of the other candidate." The most extraordinary fact connected with +the indulgence which is extended to Western excesses is the severity +with which Northern and Eastern writers and publicists deal with +the recklessness of Southerners with regard to life, as if it were a +political question in some way connected with slavery. In an article on +"Colonisation," in the July number of 'The International Review,' there +is an attempt to prove that the prevalence of homicide in the South as +compared with the North has impeded the flow of immigrants, although +slavery has disappeared, and the writer, quoting Mr. Redfield's book +on 'Homicide North and South,' says the terrible "scourge of open +murder, wholly irrespective of political causes more deadly than +disease or yellow fever, because each death is the result of a heinous +crime, seems to be calmly accepted by public opinion as a part of +the unchangeable conditions of social life in the South. In Kentucky +more men are killed in six days than in eight years in Vermont. In a +village of Connecticut a death from homicide has never occurred from +its foundation, while in one graveyard in Owen County, Kentucky, the +majority are murdered men, and in another county forty-two persons +were killed and forty-three wounded in two years." But in the very same +number of the 'International' there is an account of the doings of the +"Vigilance Committee" of San Francisco (where there were no slaves and +where there is immense wealth), which might cause the author of the +paper on "Colonisation" to reflect a little on his theories. Surely in +Arizona, California, &c., where the foreign population is 50 per cent. +of the natives, immigration has not been checked by the prevalence of +homicide? It must not be supposed that there is no "law" in the towns +where these crimes have been committed; in all the cases referred to +the coroner did his office and verdicts were returned, and it will have +been seen that "wretches hang" in due course. We had intended to visit +the State prison at Canyon City on our way to Pueblo from Leadville, +where we were promised an opportunity of seeing "thirty murderers all +in a row," but the delay of the train on the road deprived us of the +means of verifying the statement, and I give it as it was made. It +would seem as if the criminal supply were super-abundant, or that death +on the gallows had no deterrent influence. The chances of escape are, +if not numerous, at least considerable. At Deming, Denver, Leadville, +Tucson, Tombstone, and other cities, the vast mass of the inhabitants +are law-abiding, peaceable, honest, and honourable men, who feel as +much horror at the violence and bloodshed around them as the most +refined lady in any saloon of Boston, Paris, or London, but they appear +to endure these things in the hope that the law will be enforced at +last; now and then they break into vigilance committees and execute +their own decrees, though the judges do not fail to lay it down that +they have been accessories to murder. The great civiliser and police +agent is the railroad. It is affirmed that as the iron way is pushed on +the outlaws and the _personnel_ of outlawry congregate at the terminal +town, but I suspect that there is a fringe of the material left on the +border as it runs. As our party were at dinner in the palace-car one +evening the train pulled up at a station. There was a group of rough +men on the platform, who stared in with all their eyes at the white +tablecloth, set with bright glass and silver, and at the cheerful faces +under the lamps. "How merry they are. I wonder if they know that this +is Dodge City?" exclaimed one of the crowd. I was told by an official +that when they were making a railway in these parts the surveyors, &c., +were much troubled by gangs of gamblers and robbers, who impeded the +work and debauched the men, so after due warning they made a razzia +on the gamblers, shot a lot of them, and the rest "vamosed." There was +not very long ago an actual war in the Grand Canyon Valley between the +Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railway and the Denver and Rio Grande +Railway, in which there was an array of armed forces and fighting on +both sides, and we saw with our own eyes the remains of the breastworks +cast up in the Grand Canyon by the belligerents. The law came in at +last. "One side got at the judge first and gave him $50,000. The +other was quite ready to go beyond that, but the first was too quick, +and the suit went against the company." I was talking to a lawyer +about the length of time which is allowed by the judges to criminals +sentenced to death as a detail of the execution of the law not in +accordance with the general practice of civilised nations, when one +of the company remarked, "They must do it, sir, to please the people. +If we had Judas Iscariot in gaol to-morrow there would be thousands +of petitions to commute his sentence, and thousands of dollars ready +for an appeal to the Supreme Court. Our people don't like prompt +sentence." Nevertheless, sentence and execution are pretty swift when +the desperadoes take the law into their own hands, as we have seen. +The revolver and the "saloon" are the agents and the scene in most of +these murders, and whisky is too often the motive power. In Kansas it +is a criminal offence to sell any intoxicating spirit, or to use it +except on medical certificate. It is said that the law cannot last, but +it surely was a very strong conviction of the evils which were endured +by the community that brought a State Legislature, elected by the +people, to enact that beer, wine, and spirits should be absolutely and +entirely banished from its borders. Lately there was a prosecution by +the State attorney of a man for selling spirits. The case was clearly +proved. The judge charged the jury in the strongest manner against the +defendant. The jury without retiring at once found a verdict of "not +guilty." "Boys," exclaimed the judge, putting his hand on the foreman's +shoulder, "Boys, I'm quite with you." The Kansas case will be, I think, +watched with great interest by the rival parties in England, and it is +certainly worth investigation and attention, for, if all I hear be true +here, a Parliament elected by the people either in advance or in the +rear of their constituents have passed a law which judges condemn, and +juries evade, and public opinion derides. + +From a British, which may be an unintelligent, point of view, there +is a want of logical method in the treatment of the Great Rebellion +question by Americans. There is a general disposition to speak of the +war between the Federal Government and the people of the Confederate +States as an historical fact which has ceased to present burning +controversies and terrible issues to the Republic. But, at the same +time, these controversies are kept alive, and, for the defeated, are +stirred up incessantly by anniversaries and celebrations, natural but, +if it be the object of Americans, as many of them assure us it is, +to let the memory of the past die out like that of a horrid dream, +impolitic. The spirit which animated the Southern States is neither +dead nor sleeping. But there are no end of G. A. P. and G. A. R. +Associations flourishing their banners and waving their sheathed swords +in and out of the newspapers, and it is almost more than Southern +flesh and blood can bear at times to be reminded of the defeats they +sustained, even if they be content to admit that the doctrine of the +sovereignty of States was a delusion, and that the indivisibility of +the Republic was a fundamental principle of the Constitution before it +was conclusively established by force of arms. + +North and South, our good cousins are fond of anniversaries and +speechmakings. I wonder where they get their taste for them from? +Some few veterans dine together on anniversaries of old French war +days, and there is a Balaclava Dinner in the Old Country; but, though +we have a reasonably long list of fighting successes to commemorate, +their anniversaries are mostly left to the almanacks. The other day +the Americans had a celebration of the Battle of Cowpens, wherein the +heroic Morgan gave the diabolical Tarleton the deuce of a whipping. I +wonder if it was worth remembering? But it is better to remember such +things perhaps than Sherman's Raid or Wilderness--or Chickahominy. +There are bitternesses enough remaining--the rivalries and jealousies +of generals are still active and these memories might be left to die +out. + +The great war which so deeply moved the population of the United States +has left many traces in Soldiers' Homes, and men deprived of legs or +arms, or bearing marks of indelible wounds, are to be met with wherever +there is any considerable gathering of people all over the Union. The +clerk at the bar of the hotel, to whom we were talking a moment ago, +was a captain in a regiment of militia, and served with distinction, +having risen to the grade he occupies by conduct and courage during the +war; and if he is known among his friends by the title of "Colonel," +he deserves, probably, the brevet conferred upon him by the authority +of the general public around him. The conductor of the train on the +Pennsylvania Railroad, to whose attention we were so much indebted, was +an ex-officer of volunteers, was engaged at the first battle of Bull +Run, where he was wounded, and in several other actions. And our good +friend the Major, who enabled us to pass many an hour listening to his +admirable rendering of negro minstrelsy, bore in his body a proof of +the dangers he had passed, in the shape of a Confederate bullet, or +it might have been (for I am not quite sure now) a projectile of the +Federal persuasion. And so on. Scarcely a day passed that we did not +meet someone who had been fighting on one side or the other. + +One great change has come over Americans since I was last here, and, +whether it was the ridicule to which they were exposed or to a sense +of their greatness as a nation that it be due, it is to be commended. +Except by a professional interviewer, not one of the party was asked, +"What do you think, sir, of our country?"! + +The welcome which an Englishman who is entitled to admission into +good society receives all over the States, in the best houses, and +from the best men, is as gracious and warm as ever. It seems as if a +reaction against the suspicion, jealousy, and harshness which marred +the political relations of the Republic and Great Britain in times gone +by, moved those who behave with so much courtesy to Englishmen, and +that they seem to say, _sotto voce_, "Come and see how I forget the +wrongs done to the United States by the Ministers of George III. and +his successors! Admit that I can be as magnanimous as I am rich and +cultivated! I am of your house, but I have transplanted all the good +qualities of your race to American soil, and grafted them on the tree +of liberty which towers aloft in all the splendour of Transatlantic +luxuriance above us." + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +THE RED MAN AND HIS DESTINY. + + Captain Pratt--Carlisle Barracks--An Indian Bowman--The Indian + Question--The Pupils' Gossip--The "School News"--Indian + Visitors--The White Mother--The India Office--White and + Red--Quo Quousque?--Indian Title Deeds--The Reservations--The + Indian Agencies--Missionary Efforts--The Red Man and the + Maori. + + +On the 5th of May the party visited Carlisle Fort or Barracks, one of +the ancient military establishments of the Republic, where in the old +times, speaking in an American sense, a considerable force was usually +concentrated to keep watch and ward over the western frontiers, now +extended thousands of miles away to the Pacific. The Barrack, which +is a large quadrangle capable of containing a couple of regiments, is +appropriated by the Government to this great experiment, the systematic +education of the Indians of both sexes, whose families send them to +school for the purpose of learning English and useful arts, mechanical +and other, which may be of advantage to their people. It was, perhaps, +one of the most interesting of the many little excursions which the +Duke of Sutherland and his friends made in the States, and as it was +the only one of the schools which we had an opportunity of seeing I +shall proceed to give a little account of what we witnessed. In the +first place let me express the sense which every one of us entertained +of the real sterling qualities of Captain Pratt who is in charge of +the school, and of the devotion and solicitude for their charges of +those ladies employed in the training establishment. It may be asked +how casual visitors could judge of these things? The discipline, +order, progress, and perfect method visible in every room, and the +intelligence and good understanding between the teachers and the pupils +which could be perceived throughout the establishment, were adequate +proofs, I think, that the praise is well deserved. At the time of our +visit there were something under three hundred pupils, of whom perhaps +two hundred were boys, and these were engaged in their class-rooms, +each section of Indians being arranged according to nationality, if +such a term can be used. But, indeed, the tribes of Indians differed +from each other in personal appearance far more than do the races +which inhabit the European continent. It is true they nearly all have +straight wire-like black hair and eyes set deeply and rather obliquely +in faces which are frequently of the Mongol type. But there is great +diversity in the shape of the head, the angle of the jaw, the formation +of the mouth and nose, the colour (when not tainted or "improved" by +an admixture of European blood, whether Mexican or American or other) +being pretty uniform, a rich bronze, with something of a copper hue, +predominating in the young people. The boys were dressed in a plain +neat uniform of greyish-blue, military tunics and trousers, well shod +and comfortably equipped in all respects. The girls, amongst whom, +perhaps, taste for eccentric finery was not unobservable, wore dresses +less uniform in appearance, generally neat and always clean; but +their foot gear was rather eccentric. The rooms, spacious barrack-like +apartments, well ventilated, were appropriated to the classes according +to age and progress, the boys being separated from the girls. The walls +were hung with maps and furnished with educational coloured prints, and +boards for arithmetical exercises were in each apartment. The desks and +stools were such as would be seen in an ordinary school, and if one had +not looked at the faces of the pupils and been struck by some of the +strange characters on the walls he would have thought himself in the +middle of some ordinary school; save, perhaps, that his ear would have +missed the curious humming noise which marks the industry of idleness +or of legitimate work in similar establishments in Europe. But here +were all these young savages, poring over their books or boring with +their pens, looking up at the visitors scarcely with curiosity and +applying themselves again to their work, or answering questions put +to them with the composure which must be a portion of the Red Man's +nature. + +I cannot recollect how many tribes there were represented at the +Carlisle school; but I was struck by the race-distinctions which could +be observed when Captain Pratt, standing on a raised platform, called +out the names of each tribe. The little batches, in some instances +only one or two, stood up briskly and looked somewhat proudly about, +as much as to say, "We are Sioux (or Apaches, or Ponchas, or Creeks), +not like these other fellows." And the young ladies were, if one might +judge from their expression, quite as proud of their own people as the +boys. But the names these poor children receive are ludicrous. Not +content with calling them by English names, or American, singularly +misapplied, very often, as a name may be, their own Indian nomenclature +is translated into English, so that we heard reading and reciting +beside "Luke Phillips" and "Almarine McKillip" (a Scotch Creek) +"Maggie Stands-looking" and "Reuben Quick-bear." There was something +of sarcasm, I think, in the address of a Creek boy to the visitors. He +said: "The Indian boys had come here to learn something about the use +of the bow and hunting. Their people believed that if boys grew up to +manhood without learning they would be of no use; therefore they had +sent the boys here to get education." Then, after some moral if trite +reflections, the lad said: "You must understand that nearly everything +that was made was made both for the present and the future. This +barracks was not built for Indians, as I do not think the men who built +it ever thought that it would be an Indian school; but things were made +to do good both in the present and in the future." And then quoth he, +looking at his white friends straight in the face: "The education which +we are getting here is not like our own land, but it is something that +cannot be stolen nor bought from us." And the white man did not turn +red at the words! I do not pretend to judge of the actual progress made +in learning, but the very intelligent self-possessed teachers reported +uniformly that they were satisfied. The most useful education, perhaps, +which these Indians receive is in practical mechanics, and a visit to +the workshops attached to the barracks was amply repaid by the sight +of these industrious young fellows hammering and leathering away in +the various departments. They have actually completed waggons of a most +satisfactory construction, complete in all their parts, so much so that +orders have been received for as many as can be supplied for the use +of Agencies. They make and repair their own shoes. They have sent out +a hundred and twenty double sets of harness. They make coffee-boilers, +cups, pans, pails, and all the articles known to the tin-smith; and the +girls are taught to hem and sew and knit in the English fashion; but it +must have been not many a long year before the white man landed, when +the ancestors of these Indian maidens exercised the same mystery with +fine sinew and skin in the wonderful work of which specimens are handed +down to us to-day. On one point alone, perhaps, there was something to +regret; the health of the children was not all that could be desired. +Well clad, regularly fed, I presume on wholesome food, cleanly lodged +in well-ventilated rooms, these wild children of the plains scarcely +came up to the expectations one would form of them in the matter of +chest-measurement; and although many were remarkable for fine physical +development, Captain Pratt confessed that their sanitary condition was +not everything that could be desired, and that losses from consumption +and other causes were rather serious. But they have plenty of out-door +exercise. They have games in which they rejoice. They drill and +march to the sound of their own band, a very good brass band of eight +performers, each of a different tribe, who played "Hail Columbia!" +and the "Star-Spangled Banner," and the like, with energy and zest; +nay, with harmonious concurrence. When we went out into the large open +square, there appeared before us a wonderful being in feathers, waving +plumes, wampum and all the leathern panoply and peltry adornments of +an Indian, painted, and armed with bow and arrow, probably such an one +as Captain John Smith may have seen as he went exploring the woods +of Virginia on his way to the sacrifice from which he was saved by +Pocahontas. A target was erected at a distance of a hundred yards or +so, and had I been in the centre of it, I should have been perfectly +safe from the arrows which the Indian warrior discharged at it. But +we were told that with a good bow a strong-armed Indian will drive an +arrow right through a buffalo, and in that case I would suppose that +the buffalo was very near to him indeed. + +Of course it is but natural to find very varying degrees of +intelligence amongst the pupils, and the rate of progress was by no +means uniform, but a committee of examination which recently visited +the school declared that the manifestations of advancement in the +rudiments of English education were to them simply surprising. It was +with admiration bordering on amazement they observed the facility and +accuracy with which the children passed through the various exercises, +in reading, geography, arithmetic, and writing, of the schoolroom; +the accurate training and the amount of knowledge displayed were, they +reported, the fullest proof not only of skilful teaching, but of great +aptitude and diligence on the part of the children. Considering the +brief period during which the school had been in operation, and the +fact that the children entered it in a wholly untutored condition, +the evidence was conclusive of the capability of culture. They go on +to say: "We are fully persuaded that improvement equal to that which +we have witnessed in the case of these children of the plains, if +made in equal time by American children, would be regarded as quite +unusual. And when the difficulty of communication consequent upon the +diversities of language is taken into account we can but feel that the +results of which we have been the witnesses to-day justify our judgment +of them as amazing." + +One of the most interesting features connected with the attempts +to educate the Indians at Carlisle is the 'School News,' a little +publication which, as I understand, is conducted by Indian pupils +taught in the establishment, edited by Samuel Townsend, a Pawnee Indian +boy. It is published once a month, and costs 25 cents or 1_s._ per +year. It takes as its motto the lines: + + "A pebble cast into the sea is felt from shore to shore, + A thought from the mind set free will echo on for ever more." + +Perhaps neither the metre nor the actual statement commend themselves +to acceptance, but the matter of the little journal is full of +interest. In the first place the names of the contributors afford +full matter for meditation. Perhaps it is one of the steps which +must be taken to civilise these poor Indians that their names should +undergo a strange and, to me, unmeaning metamorphose. There seems no +reason whatever why the Indian names should not be retained, or if +there is any reason for changing them, at least there might be some +discrimination and good taste exercised in the adoption of English +Christian names. + +The first number of the 'School News,' which I have before me, contains +as an article: "What Michael Burns, an Apache boy, thinks on the Indian +Question." He says, "I cannot help myself, having much feeling for my +people, what has been said about them, and the efforts making to give +us the same privileges as the people of the United States. And it is +said how we have been treated by the bad white man, for the last ten +or fifteen years, decreasing our number. But that kind for treatment +for my nation will soon stop." The poor boy goes on to say: "There is +no doubt that we are in fault. We had the opinion that we could not +get beaten by any other nation. Now we know for ourselves that we will +have to change.... But how does the white man know which way is the +best to do. Was he born that way? No! Education gives him the light +of knowledge." Then a boy named Marcus Poko writes to his father: "I +want you to try hard and leave the Comanche way, and to find the white +man's way." In the leading article, written, I presume, by Samuel +Townsend, it is said: "Indian ways will never be good any more, it +is all passed, gone away, and the other way is coming up to take the +place. We shall all be glad when we all get into the civilised way of +living, then the Indians will not make so much trouble for the American +people. Some people say 'let the Indians get out of the way. There +is no use in trying to advance them, kill them all they are like the +wild animals deaf and dumb, they never will learn anything. We have +already paid so much money for them they have never become civilised +yet.' But all good people say, 'Oh, yes, give them an education and +plenty of opportunities, and send more teachers among them so they may +come up beside us and live as brothers and live in peace.'" There is a +little paragraph as to language. "There are a great many words in the +English," says the writer, "that the Indians have no word for, so the +white people who make the Indian books have to make new Indian words. +So the Indians have to learn the new Indian words. Now we don't know +much about it, but we believe the Indians can all learn to speak the +same as the whites." Then there is a column about the school news: +"Lizzie McRae, a Creek girl, made a very good corn bread the other +day. We had some of it. It was right good I tell you." "Robert American +Horse is a steady boy. He works in the blacksmith shop very well, and +Mr. Harris never has to tell him but once how to do something." "One +of the teachers had artificial violets on her belt. A Gros Ventre boy +saw them, but did not know what they were, so he got up from his desk +and went close to the teacher. He looked at it and then smelt it. When +he smelt it he said, 'Pooh! rags!'" "Boys, some time ago Captain Pratt +gave us advice about throwing stones at birds. Some of the boys who +understand most English did not listen. We want the birds to come and +stay with us and sing for us, too. Let us remember about this, and +not let Captain Pratt have to say it again." "Last Sunday some of the +large girls had a prayer-meeting in the yard at the back of the girls' +quarters. Nobody told them to do it, but they thought it would be a +good thing." There is a long letter from Lizzie Walton, a Pawnee girl +of thirteen years old, describing a trip to Philadelphia, and I believe +there are very few girls of thirteen years of age in any school who +could write more amusingly or better. The account of a magic lantern by +Ada Bent, a Cheyenne girl, closes the number. + +Letters from the children who are sent out to the farmers are published +in this little periodical, and give a very pleasing picture of the +lives and aptitudes of these Indians. Virginia, of Kiowar, writes from +a farm, asking one of the teachers to pardon her for not having done so +before; but "I have not much time," she says, "I am very busy set the +table and wash dishes make my bed and make pies and cakes and try to +make bread too, and the other things beside.... Sometime I make fire +and bring in wood. Mrs. Borton is very kind lady she has two children +one girl and boy. I love these little children very much." "My dear +Miss H----, I am not bad a girl. I help now a great deal. I pray for +you almost every night, also when I wake up in the morning. I like to +pray very much because I make myself good." And so on in a pleasant +little gossiping way, frequently in very difficult language. There is +an article in the 'School News' of July upon the shooting of President +Garfield: "The man who shot him," says the writer, "we suppose, thought +he would please some of the people in the United States. He thought he +was very smart. If President were to die how would every white man, +black man and the Indian feel? It was not in war when the President +was shot, for our country don't have war any more, but in peace.... +We all feel sorry because the President is suffering. We hope he +will soon recover." It is stated that about a hundred boys and girls +have gone out to work on the farms, and there are some trite remarks +about the advantages of hard work as opposed to the disadvantages of +laziness. "The farmers up country say the Indian boys can bind wheat +first-rate." "Nelly Cook, Sioux, made 36 sheets in one day last week. +Nellie Cary, Apache, made 32, and Ella Moore, Creek, made 30. Boys, do +you think those girls are lazy?" The 'School News' has a reporter, it +would appear, for the paper says that "Our reporter took a walk round +in the shops to see what the boys were doing. In all the shops every +boy was busy. In the carpenter shop there were Jock (Arapahoe), Ralph +(Sioux), Elwood (Iowa), and Joe Gun (Ponca) sawing out window and door +frames. Oscar (Cheyenne) and Michael Burns (Apache) were busy carving +balcony posts; and Lester (Arapahoe) was outside chiselling a beam. +These things are all for our new hospital.... Jesse (Arapahoe) and +Little Elk (Cheyenne) were busy in the gymnasium. The waggons which +Robert American Horse has finished painting are to be sent to Oregon +and Washington Territories." It is sometimes difficult to make out +the meaning of the little prattle which these small people commit to +the uncertain medium of the English tongue; but, on the whole, it is +a most interesting and curious study. In one respect these children +of the forest possess that which civilisation seems rather to dwarf +amongst men of the highest culture and imagination--a certain stately +eloquence and nobility of expression, in which natural images abound, +and allegory and metaphor consort together in excellent and tasteful +union. In a paper called 'Eadle Keatah Toh,' which seems to have been +the precursor of the 'School News,' there is an interesting report +from the Committee on Indian Affairs to the House of Representatives, +submitted by Mr. Pound. The motto of the paper is "God helps those +who help themselves"; but surely it might be better put that God will +help those who seek to do good to the unfortunate Indians, who in +contact with civilisation are rendered utterly helpless, and who in +their attempts to help themselves according to the manner of the race +must meet with nothing but extinction. From time to time there are +notices of deaths. One would like to know who wrote the account of the +"death of John Renville, son of Gabriel Renville, Chief of the Sisseton +Sioux." After noticing the circumstances under which he contracted his +fatal illness--fever, produced by drinking water at a spring on a hot +day on a march to the camp in Perry County, the writer says:--"'Death +loves a shining mark,' the poet sang long ago; and in the passing away +of John Renville from our school we sadly say, how truthfully the poet +sang.... Through all the days of his sickness his large sorrowful eyes +had a far-away wondering look, no pain marred the beauty of his brow, +and his voice as he addressed his sister, who tenderly watched over +him, was like the trumpet warbling of some mournful bird. Our hearts +follow the father in deep sympathy as he bears back the body of his +beautiful boy to the land of the Dakotas for burial." + +The Indian chiefs have a right, which they often exercise, of visiting +these schools as a Board; and there is an account in the Carlisle paper +of the visit of Spotted Tail, Iron Wing, White Thunder, Black Crow, +and Louis Robideau from the Rosebud Agency; Red Cloud, American Horse, +Red Dog, Red Shirt, Little Wound, and Two Strike from the Pine Ridge +Agency; Like the Bear and Medicine Bull from the Lower Brule Agency; +Son of the Star, Poor Wolf, Peter Beauchamp, and John Smith from Fort +Berthold; Two Bears, John Big Head, Grass, Thunder Hawk, and Louis +Primeau from Standing Rock; Charger and Bull Eagle from Cheyenne River; +Brother to All and James Broadhead from Crow Creek; Strike the Ree +and Jumping Thunder from Yankton; Robert Hakewashte and Eli Abraham +from Santee Agency; Mr. Tackett and his wife and daughter; a daughter +of Spotted Tail, and others. The meeting of the children with their +parents is described as being most touching; and sometimes the pupils +were not recognised, so greatly had they altered. As the chiefs seemed +unwilling to speak when called upon to do so, there was silence for a +time till a little girl, who had been about a year and a half at the +school, expressed her desire to speak in so earnest a way that General +Marshall permitted her to do so; and so, speaking in her own dialect, +her words were translated into English and into Sioux. She declared +that she liked the white man's ways and the white man's language. +Indian words, she said, were down on the ground, but the white man's +language was in his head. The chiefs, who listened attentively, seemed +to understand this curious figure of speech, and nodded their approval. +And then she enlarged upon the advantage of what she learned, and +implored the chiefs to send their children to the school, where she +says she is going to try to be God's daughter. Her words seemed to +kindle the fire within the chieftains' breasts, for Like the Bear, a +Sioux, and father of one of the boys at Hampton School, came forward +and addressed the meeting. "There is no greater power in the world," +said he, "than the Great Spirit, and we must listen to Him and do +what He wants us to do. When the men who were sent out by the Great +Father the President asked for my children I gave them up. I see you +are making brains for my children, and you are making eyes for them so +that they can see. That is what I thank the Great Spirit for, and it is +that which will make me strong." Then Robert Hakewashte, a chief from +the Santee Agency, spoke, and said that he wanted schools like that +which he saw here on his own reservation, and Spotted Tail wished for +the same thing. "Since I have learned the words of God," he says, "it +makes no difference to me what is the colour of a man's skin; if he +walks like a man it is the same. I do not believe God likes the white +colour only. God likes red and white, for He made them all." And then +the flood of eloquence was loosened, and an old chief of the Sioux, +nearly blind, verging on ninety years of age, who had come to see his +grandson, said: "I grew up a red man, and the things I see here I never +had a chance to see before. I have heard about the white man's church +and his religion, and I have heard about the holy house. I have looked +into them, and I am very much pleased. But there is only one Great +Spirit we all can worship, and the red men all over the country are +hearing about it. You are teaching the children to worship the Great +Spirit. That is a great thing, and I like it. But you have here two +sons of one father. One is sick. I want you to keep the other." And so +he carried him away. + +The condition of the Red Man who is allowed to exist under the banner +of the Republic is a subject which has attracted the attention of the +best and wisest men in the United States. The treatment of the Indians +is a question of future policy. It is one which must exercise a very +deep and abiding influence on the whole history of an ancient and +interesting people. But it is exceedingly difficult to put in a short +compass its most salient points before those who are unacquainted with +the nature of the problems to be solved. Comparisons are odious, above +all places, in America, when they are not to the advantage of the Great +Republic, and I shall not draw any between the state of the Indian +tribes in Canada and in the States. But it may be fairly admitted that +the Indian Question in Canada is divested of many of the difficulties +which surround it south of the lakes. The people of Canada have far +more land than they know what to do with. They are a sparse population. +They are not impelled to fierce adventures by mining "booms," and they +are altogether less progressive than their American brethren. Shall we +say that they are more charitable, more humane, less greedy of other +men's goods? I do not say so. But at all events it is perfectly true +that the Red Man, although he is dying out under the influence of +whiskey and other influences which need not be particularised, in his +native land, lives in comparative peace and comfort under the British +flag in Canada. He is content with the White Mother. He pursues the +occupations dear to his race as a hunter and as a fisherman. He is a +dealer in peltries, and in such small barter as his needs require. He +is the companion of sportsmen, and he delights, free as mountain air, +to hunt on the hillside and in the prairie in winter over the vast +ranges of snowy fields which in the few short months of spring and +summer teem with flowers, and the frosty lakes which yield fish to his +spear and net. There are few or no railways through his reservations +to vex his repose, no great trains of miners with pick and rifle to +drive away the moose and the buffalo, and hand the native hunter over +to starvation. The Indian gives to the white man all he needs, and aids +him in obtaining from the wide stretch of land over which he roams all +the wealth that it can afford. Practically one part of the Dominion +is handed over to the Red Man and to the half-breeds, for there is an +Indian frontier which as yet has not been much encroached upon by any +large migration of whites. As far as I know, conflicts north of the +Saint Lawrence between Indians and whites are unknown, or have not +been heard of for very many years. South of the great lakes, in the +wonderful land over which is displayed the banner of the stars and +stripes, the fate of the Indian is very different. In the words of Mr. +Carl Schurz, himself an expert in the question, "the history of the +relations of the United States with the Red Man presents in great part +a record of broken treaties, of unjust wars and of cruel spoliation." +That is a sweeping statement, which it would be just as well for +an Englishman not to make, but coming from the mouth of an American +citizen and of a United States Minister with plenty of evidence to back +it, there can be no harm in recording my conviction of its truth. It is +but another indictment against a defect in the form of government which +Americans exalt as the most perfect of human institutions, that the +central government made treaties in good faith with the Indian tribes, +but was unable to enforce their obligations or to maintain their +integrity. There is, as all well-informed people know--well informed, +at least, in reference to American affairs--a commissioner who makes an +annual report to the Secretary of the Interior respecting the Indian +tribes in the various locations over the Union and the Territories. +The last of these reports which I have seen is that of the Acting +Commissioner Mr. Marble, addressed to the Department of the Interior +from the office of Indian Affairs at Washington in the November of +last year. The volume contains the reports of the agents in the Indian +Territory; of the schools for Indian children established in pursuance +of a wise and humane policy, and detailed statistics in relation to the +Indian settlements and reservations, the latter indeed forming by far +the largest portion of the volume of 400 pages. Before I call attention +to the condition of the Indians, and the efforts made to save them from +extinction or from a degradation worse than annihilation, I should like +to direct the attention of those who are interested in the subject +to the view which is beginning to find favour, I believe, among the +most experienced men in the States, that the system of "Reservations" +is founded on a mistake the magnitude of which is demonstrated every +day, and that the only means of saving the Indians from extinction is +their gradual absorption as educated communities in the agricultural +life of the nation, keeping them far as may be from the white man, +but making no other distinction between them and the other citizens +of the United States than such as must be found in the nature of the +Indian race and their degree of culture and civilisation--treating +them, in fact, as communities of Mennonites, Mormons, or Norwegians, +or other nationalities would be treated in the United States. When +the Reservations were first established it was considered impossible +that the migration of the whites would extend to the remote regions of +the west to which the unfortunate survivors of the people with whose +virtues and vices Cooper and other novelists have made us familiar were +gradually and often remorselessly driven. It is a plea which will be +urged in bar of judgment that the doctrine of States Rights prevented +the interference of the United States Government on behalf of the +Indian tribes who were often ruthlessly destroyed. But it will scarcely +be a plea, I think, which humanity in full court would recognise as +valid. _Homo homini lupus._ But to the Red Man as to the Black in many +cases the White Man is worse than any wolf; far more bloodthirsty and +rapacious than any tiger--a Cain of Cains. It was our own kith and kin +who, landing on the shores of the North American continent, encroaching +by degrees upon the tribes and at last encountering their hostility, +spread their sway literally by fire and sword, and rooted out the +Red Man wherever they found him established on land or by sea which +they coveted. We, whose countrymen have worked out the same policy on +the Australian continent and Van Diemen's Land, and who can only be +restrained from its pursuit in New Zealand by the strong arm of the +Home Government, can scarcely afford to take up stones to fling at our +American brethren; and it is not with any purpose of indictment or +accusation that I proceed to make a few remarks on the relations of +the United States Government with the Red Man, and the efforts which +they have been making to compensate the Indians in some measure for the +injustice and persecution dealt out for many a generation. + +As I looked at the men gathered at some of the railroad stations in +the western desert and thought of the Red Men whose fate it is to +meet such representatives of civilisation and Christianity, I could +not but be filled with pity for the unfortunates and with wonder at +"the dispensation" under which they live. The faces are fine and bold +enough, bearded to the cheek or shaved in the American fashion, with +bold staring eyes, which "look square" in your own, with a general +expression "Do you want a fight?" in them--the heads to which they +belong are generally set on muscular bodies. If a gang of these men +think fit to go on to an Indian reservation--the very name is too often +a bitter mockery--who is to stop them? If the Indians try to do so and +one of the white intruders is killed the country-side rings with cries +of "vengeance for the massacre of our brethren," and all the papers are +filled with accounts of "Another Indian Outbreak." + +"The average frontier-man in the States looks," as Mr. Schurz says, +"upon the Indian merely as a nuisance in his way. There are many +whom it would be difficult to convince that it is a crime to kill an +Indian." I will go further and say that there are many, I believe, who +would take great pleasure in killing an Indian whenever they could; +or as one gentleman observed to me, and I believe in his relations +with white men no more just or honourable man or more humane could be +found, "I would sooner kill an Indian than I would a skunk." When I +was in the West, there was a cry raised that the Utes were about to +wage war, and appeals appeared in the local papers for a military force +to march against them. Their leaders were accused of arrogance and of +insolence, and of murderous designs, and the general remark one heard +was, "The Utes must go." I inquired a little into the matter when I got +back, and I found that the Utes were strictly and absolutely, in their +own right, standing upon the titles, which they had derived from the +United States Government, to the lands from which they were required +to move. These lands were wanted. Other lands were pointed out to them, +to which they objected, and then they were informed that they would be +moved by force, and preparations were made to levy war against these +unfortunates, if they resisted deportation from the territory which +had been assigned to them by the Great Father. Had they been Irish +landlords, they could not have been treated worse; but in the West not +one word was raised in favour of their claims. + +The first point which has to be considered is, that the Indian is +obnoxious to the very class of men with whom he is by the necessity +of things most closely brought in contact. The railway has been the +great persecutor of Red Men. It has driven away the game, it has +carried in proximity to their reservations all the enterprise charged +with whiskey, revolver, rifle, and greed, which can be furnished by +the offscourings of the world. In the Far West the miners in advance +throng into the valleys, and break the silence of the mountain-ranges +by the sound of their picks, the cattle-raisers spread out over the +plains, the ploughman settles down on the fertile land. "What," asks +the American philanthropist, and his question is echoed all over the +world by humane and good men, "what is to become of the Indian?" The +hunting-grounds are gradually being pushed farther west and north +until they are bounded by the sea, and by the eternal snow. And if by +any chance it should be found that there is gold or lead, silver or +iron, or copper, or coal in any abundance, even under these unpromising +conditions it will be sought. The buffalo is disappearing fast, faster +than the Indian himself. Deer are becoming scarcer every year. What +is to be left for the Red Man? Pastoral life and agriculture, say +the philanthropists. The substitution, however, is not so easy. The +weakness of the United States Government is the main cause why the +policy of reservations has failed. Let us take the account of it by a +United States Minister. "The Government," says Mr. Schurz, "has tried +to protect the Indians in good faith against encroachments, and has +failed. It has yielded to the pressure exercised upon it by people in +immediate contact with the Indians. When a collision between Indians +and whites once occurred, no matter who was responsible for it, our +military forces were always found on the side of the white against the +savage. How was Government to proclaim that white men should for ever +be excluded from the millions of acres covered by Indian reservations, +and that the national power would be exerted to do so?" Such an +idea the American Minister thinks would be utterly preposterous. The +rough and ready frontier-man would pick quarrels with the Indians; +the speculators would urge him on. Government could not prevent +collisions; the conflict once brought on, Government, in spite of its +good intentions and sense of justice, would find itself employing its +forces to hunt down the Indian. The old story would be repeated, as it +will be wherever, says Mr. Schurz, there is a large and valuable Indian +Reservation surrounded by white settlements, "and unjust, disgraceful +as it is, that is an inevitable result." Such being the case then, +the United States Government being powerless to see that right shall +be done, and it being at once a human and a Christian duty to avert, +if possible, the extinction of the original possessors of this grand +continent, let us see what can be done to carry out the object. Fit the +Indians, it is said, for the habits and occupations of civilised life; +give them individual possession of land as property, a fee-simple title +to the fields they cultivate, guarded by an absolute prohibition of +sale--because it has been found that whenever the Indians are exposed +to the temptation of artful traders, they will be cajoled out of the +titles they have to their land--and you will save the remnants from +utter destruction. I hope it will be so. I could not but feel a glow +of enthusiasm when I heard the Attorney-General, Mr. MacVeagh, at +Washington, speaking incidentally one day about some railway matter, +declare that he would not sanction the making of a line of railway +through Indian Territory until he was satisfied that the Indians +actually understood the conditions which had been offered to them by +the company. "I will," said Mr. MacVeagh, "send down government agents +there to ascertain that the Indians thoroughly understand what they +are doing, and that it is of their own free will and consent that the +railway passes through their territory in exchange for the money and +goods they receive for the concession." Excellent and just minister! +But, alas! I believe that ere I left the United States the whole thing +was done; the railway company had declared that they would, whether +or no, make their line, and if an Indian touched a hair of the head of +any white man, the United States Government would not be able to avert +the Divine wrath of every white man on the border from the whole of +the tribe. Well may Mr. Schurz say that the thought of exterminating a +race once the only occupants of the soil, where so many millions of our +own people have flourished, must be revolting to every American who is +not devoid of all sentiments of justice and humanity. Extermination or +civilisation is the alternative offered to the Indian. Now let us see +how it is proposed to civilise them. According to the returns in the +Report for 1880, the number of Indians in the United States, exclusive +of those in Alaska, is 256,127. Of these, 138,642 are described as +wearing citizen's dress. It will be observed that there is no estimate +given of the Indians who do not wear citizen's dress under this head. +Citizens must be sometimes very badly dressed indeed if the Indians I +saw at various stations along the line to San Francisco in shocking +bad hats and tattered clothes were to be included amongst those who +figured under this description in the report of the Commissioner. About +17,000 houses are reported as occupied. There are 224 schools, attended +by 6000 scholars for a month or more during the year, scattered over +the continent. About 34,550 Indians could read. There were 154 church +buildings and 74 missionaries. The number of children of school age was +34,541; but this was an under estimate. Of these there was only school +accommodation for 9972. The total amount expended for education during +the year by the United States Government was $249,299; by the State of +New York, $15,863; by the State of Pennsylvania, $325; by other States, +nothing; by religious societies, $46,933; by tribal funds, $7481. +22,048 Indian families were engaged in cultivating farms or small +patches of ground; 33,125 male Indians were labouring in civilised +pursuits; and 358 Indian apprentices had been pursuing trades during +the year. This census and these statistics are stated to be imperfect, +and it would require a close examination of the returns to enable an +inquirer to form any idea as to the progress made in the direction +which we are told is the alternative of destruction. + +The Reservations of the various Indian tribes are scattered irregularly +over the United States; from Michigan, Wisconsin, and Minnesota on +the north and north-west, away to the Territories on the other side +of the Rocky Mountains, down to New Mexico and Arizona, there being +none in the southern states bordering the Atlantic. But there are +Red Men of different tribes located, as the Americans would say, in +the States to the east, such as New York. The Reservations are of +irregular size and extent. Isabella, in the State of Maine, reserved +for 848 Indians, lies to the east of 86 deg. longitude, and south of 44 deg. +latitude. There is a considerable group of Reservations on the western +shore of Lake Michigan in Wisconsin, and in Minnesota. But the proper +Indian territory lies west of Arkansas, with the Red River on the +south, New Mexico on the west, and Kansas on the north; and in it are +concentrated the Cherokees, Choctaws, Chicasaws, Comanches, Cheyennes, +and several other tribes. The Navajo Reservation in New Mexico and +Arizona ranks perhaps next in size, extending northwards into Colorado, +where the Utes have got a large tract of land assigned to them upon +what appears now to be very doubtful or vanishing tenure. These, and +numerous reservations, which it would be tedious to enumerate, are +under the charge of agents appointed by the Government at Washington, +as to whose functions and personal character and attainments one +hears very surprising and contradictory reports. But I confess, from +a perusal of the documents which they have furnished to the head of +the Department, and which are published in the Annual Report, there +seems to me no just ground for imputing to these gentlemen want of +zeal, knowledge, interest, or intelligence. Those who detest the whole +work of saving the Red Man are very apt to impute to the Indian agents +not only corrupt practices in relation to the sale of government +stores and supplies destined for the use of those under their charge, +but illicit traffic in spirits, which is ruinous to the Red Man, and +even some participation in the acts of violence which have frequently +led to Indian troubles. It all depends upon the manner in which your +informant in the States regards the Indian Question whether the agents +are described as scoundrels whom no man could trust, or as gentlemen of +high propriety and general excellence. + +The necessities which have been imposed by advancing civilisation +of providing Indians with food entail a heavy outlay upon the United +States Government, which is much begrudged by large sections of members +of Congress, although they do not see their way clearly to withhold +supplies of food from the unfortunate people whose hunting-grounds have +been occupied, and who have not yet learned the arts of agriculture, +so as to be able to supply themselves with food. The transportation of +stores, the cost of beef, corn, coffee, bread, tobacco, tea; in fact, +all kinds of food, woollen goods, clothing, boots, hats, groceries, +waggons, tools, hardware, and medical supplies,--all these duly figure +in the estimates of the Indian Commissioner to a very considerable +amount, and the returns as yet do not present any large reduction on +the annual charge; although nearly all the agents speak in terms of +great hopefulness of the extraordinary advance which has been made in +their agencies in the cultivation of the soil. + +One remarkable division of the agencies has reference to their +appropriation to religious denominations. An Indian might well +be puzzled as to his form of belief if he were passed through the +various agencies, attending at each a religious service or two, and +listening to the teaching of the various divines attached to them. The +Society of Friends have control of the belief and religious teaching +of the Sante and Nemaja Indians in Nebraska, and of the Pawnees in +the Indian Territory; to the Methodists are assigned three tribes in +California, three tribes in Washington Territory, two in Oregon, three +in Montana, two in Idaho, and one in Michigan. The Nevada Cherokees, +Creeks, Choctaws, Chicasaws, and Seminoles are handed over to the +Baptists. The Presbyterians have charge of the Nezperces in Idaho, +Umtas in Utah; the Apaches, Pueblos, and two other tribes in New +Mexico. The Congregational Church exercises its religious offices +among the tribes in Wisconsin, among two tribes in Dacotah, and one +in Washington Territory. The Reformed Church has its work cut out for +it in Arizona amongst four tribes. The Protestant Episcopal Church +exercises its jurisdiction over one tribe in Minnesota, six tribes in +Dacotah, one in Indian Territory, and one in Wyoming. The Unitarians +have apparently only one tribe in teaching, the Los Pinos in Colorado. +The United Presbyterians have one tribe in Oregon; the Christian Union +has another in Oregon; the Evangelical Lutheran has charge of the +Southern Utes in Colorado; and lastly, the Roman Catholic Church has +two tribes in Washington Territory, two in Oregon, one in Montana, +and two in Dacotah. As a general rule, the reports of the missionaries +themselves are more sanguine, as they are wont to be, than are those +of disinterested, perhaps unprejudiced, observers of their work. But, +as is natural, the actual progress made depends very much, not only +upon the nature of the tribe among whom the work is carried on, but +on the character of the missionary, and on his ability and energy. In +some instances, I see the condition of a tribe is reported as being +lamentable, from a religious point of view, whilst in a neighbouring +reservation, it is stated that great progress has been made in the +establishment of religious teaching and ideas. The Rosebud Agency is +said to prosper in the hands of one reverend gentlemen; the fathers of +St. Ignatius are described as doing good work amongst the Flatheads; +the Pawnees are left without any missionaries at all, and, says +the government report, "are probably better off without them." And +depreciatory remarks are slightingly introduced concerning the work at +other agencies. On the Devil's Lake Agency, the majority of the adults +shun the missionaries as they would the gentleman who may be supposed +to own the lake by the sides of which they are encamped. The Jesuit +fathers and the Catholic sisters are described as working generally +with zeal and success, whilst one agency assigned to the Methodists +is said to have no religious agency at all. It is to the success of +the attempts made to educate the Indians at the public establishments +that the philanthropist and humanitarian must look with the most +hopefulness. + +All the reports of the teachers and visitors of these schools coincide +in one point, that the young Indian is most teachable, and that in +respect of acquiring knowledge he is, if anything, the superior of the +white, who seems to enjoy no hereditary excellence in his capacity for +acquiring knowledge. The Bill to which the Report was an introduction +may be considered indeed as the Magna Charta of the Indian tribes +if it be followed up by judicious treatment, and careful management +of and consideration for the rights conferred upon these tribes as +preliminary to their absorption as citizens in the mass of the nation, +when they are fit for such an amalgamation with the white races. The +advance of the United States westwards has left vacant many military +posts and barracks, stranded, as it were, high and dry in the midst of +the torrent of civilisation. Fort Bridger, Wyoming; Carlisle Barracks, +Pennsylvania; Fort Craig, New Mexico; Fort Cummings, in the same +territory, and a number of others, have been named as suitable for +the purpose of educating the Indian children; and it was in pursuance +of the measure recommended to Congress that the various agencies +throughout the Indian Territories were directed to forward children +whom their parents might wish to entrust to the officers of the United +States for education. "Received in the rudest state of savagism," says +the Report, "their progress is already most remarkable." I have already +remarked that the health of the boys is not generally satisfactory. +Their sanitary condition is bad; and it would appear that sometimes in +these long and tedious journeyings from the remote Indian agencies the +poor children suffer much. + +Even at the present moment the Anglo-Saxon appears to be dealing with +the Maori in New Zealand very much as he has dealt with the native in +Tasmania and in Australia. The history of our relations with the New +Zealand chiefs and people is not in a nature to enable us to throw +stones at the Americans with impunity, for the glass house in which +we live can very easily be reached. Some sixteen or seventeen years +ago a rebellion, arising out of the aggressions of the white settlers +on the lands of the Maori, was averted by a Proclamation and by Acts +confiscating a large tract of Tallinassey, which became theoretically +the property of the Crown. Of course the natives had as little to say +to that as the lady who is mentioned in 'Tristram Shandy' had with the +declaration that "she was not related to her own child." But they did +not recognise the occupancy, and whenever a white man settled upon +a portion of the ground they pulled down his fences and removed his +landmarks. The contest is still going on, but no one who is acquainted +with the history of the colony will doubt what the end will be; and +it is coming soon, or it is to come, the moment the colonists are bent +upon taking the land, and when it is desired to do so. + +"It but feebly expresses the judgment formed from what we have observed +to say that we regard the experiment made in this school to educate and +improve Indian children as in every way a very remarkable success." _Si +sic omnes!_ Why does not the United States Government, or if not the +Government, the people, abounding in wealth, full of pious impulses, +humane, charitable, who justly say that the worst use you can make +of an Indian is to hang him; why do not the political economists who +declare that it costs a million of dollars to get rid of an Indian with +gunpowder and lead; why do not the enterprising and wealthy capitalists +who desire to appropriate Indian Reservations all combine to extend the +work of these schools so as to absorb all that remains of the Red Man +in the rising generation amongst the citizens of the great Republic? 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About the + very time that we were on our way to the wharf to embark on + board the "_City of Berlin_," the murderer of the President + was accomplishing his purpose. But with all the means and + appliances which exist for the despatch of news, I believe + that the commission of the crime was not known till the + steamer had passed out to sea from the Sand Heads. + + [C] _See also_ Rose Library. + + + + +London: + +SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, & RIVINGTON, + +CROWN BUILDINGS, 188, FLEET STREET, E.C. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Hesperothen; Notes from the West, Vol. +II (of 2), by W. H. 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