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| author | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-14 18:39:24 -0700 |
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| committer | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-14 18:39:24 -0700 |
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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/44333-0.txt b/44333-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..912609a --- /dev/null +++ b/44333-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,7126 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 44333 *** + +Transcriber's Note: + + Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the original document have + been preserved. Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. + + Italic text is denoted by _underscores_. Bold text is denoted by + =equals signs=. + + On page 26 Count Fritz Thumb should possibly be Count FritzThumb. + + On page 120 Indianopolis should possibly be Indianapolis. + + On page 124, General How should possibly be General Howe. + + A triangle symbol in the text is represented as [**triangle] + + + + + HESPEROTHEN; + NOTES FROM THE WEST: + A RECORD OF A + RAMBLE IN THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA + IN THE SPRING AND SUMMER OF 1881. + + BY + W. H. RUSSELL, LL.D. + BARRISTER-AT-LAW. + + IN TWO VOLUMES. + + VOL. II. + + LONDON: + SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, & RIVINGTON, + CROWN BUILDINGS, 188 FLEET STREET. + 1882. + + [All rights reserved.] + + + + + LONDON: + PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, + STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING CROSS. + + + + +CONTENTS OF VOL. II. + + + CHAPTER I. + + ARIZONA. + + Deming--The Mirage--Ruined Cities--American + Explorers--Self-Tormentors--Animals and + Plants--Yuma--California--Los Angeles--Santa Monica--The + Pacific Page 1 + + + CHAPTER II. + + THE YOSEMITE VALLEY. + + A new Land of Goshen--A Jehu indeed--The Drive to Clarke's--A + Mountain Hostelry--Grizzlies--Fascination Point--The + Merced--Yosemite Fall--A Salute--Mountain Airs--The Mirror + Lake--"See that Rattle?"--A Philosophic Barber 19 + + + CHAPTER III. + + SAN FRANCISCO. + + The Palace Hotel--General McDowell--Palo-Alto--The + "Hoodlums"--The real Sir Roger--Exiles in the Far West--The + Chinese Population--For and Against them--The Sand Lot--Fast + Trotters--The Sea-Lions--The Diamond Palace--The Coloured + Population--"Eastward Ho!" 44 + + + CHAPTER IV. + + CALIFORNIA TO COLORADO. + + Los Angeles--Mud-geysers--"Billy the Kid"--General + Fremont--Manitou, the Garden of the Gods--Desperadoes--Bob + Ingersoll--Denver City--Leadville--Grand Cañon 73 + + + CHAPTER V. + + KANSAS TO ST. LOUIS. + + Liquor Law--Kansas Academy of Science--An Incident of + Travel--A Parting Symposium--Life in the Cars--St. Louis to + New York 107 + + + CHAPTER VI. + + NEW YORK--NEWPORT--DEPARTURE. + + Coney Island--Newport--Bass-fishing--Habit of + Spitting--Brighton Beach--Newport Coaching--Extra + Ecclesiam--Victories of American Horses--Newport + Avenues--Return to New York--Our Last Day in America 122 + + + CHAPTER VII. + + RETURN TO EUROPE. + + The "_City of Berlin_"--The Inman Line--The Service at Roche's + Point--Queenstown Discomforts--A sorry Welcome Home 140 + + + CHAPTER VIII. + + SOME GENERAL REFLECTIONS. + + Education--Free Schools--Influence of Money in + Politics--Corruption in Public Life--Crime on the Western + Borders--The Great Rebellion--Anniversaries--Great Courtesy to + Strangers--Manners and Customs 151 + + + CHAPTER IX. + + THE RED MAN AND HIS DESTINY. + + Captain Pratt--Carlisle Barracks--An Indian Bowman--The Indian + Question--The Pupils' Gossip--The "School News"--Indian + Visitors--The White Mother--The India Office--White and + Red--Quo Quousque?--Indian Title Deeds--The Reservations--The + Indian Agencies--Missionary Efforts--The Red Man and the Maori + 186 + + + + +HESPEROTHEN. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +ARIZONA. + + Deming--The Mirage--Ruined Cities--American + Explorers--Self-Tormentors--Animals and + Plants--Yuma--California--Los Angeles--Santa Monica--The + Pacific. + + +_May 30th._--At an hour as to which controversy might arise, owing to +the changes of time to which we have been subjected, the train, which +had pulled up but seldom during the night, stopped at Deming Junction, +where the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fé Railroad "connects" with +the Southern Pacific, on which our cars were to be "hauled" to San +Francisco. Jefferson time and San Francisco time differ two hours, so +at one end of the station we scored 6 A.M., and at the other 8 A.M. +The sooner one gets away from Deming in any direction the better. A +year ago--as is usually the case hereabouts--there was not a trace of +a town on the dry ugly plain covered with prickly acacias and "Spanish +bayonets"; now Deming flourishes in gaming and drinking saloons, +express offices, and all the horrors of "enterprise" in the West. The +look-out revealed a few tents, wooden shanties, a station, at which +workmen were running up a frame-house, ground littered with preserved +provision tins, broken crockery, adobes and refuse of all sorts. At +the door of one hut, swarming with flies, swung half a carcase of beef; +two women were washing, pale-faced, but not uncheerful creatures, who +had not a good opinion of Deming and its population. "They carry out a +dead man a day, or used to," said one informant. The lady washerwomen +did not quite corroborate the figure; but, remarked the chattier +of the two, "there was a considerable shewtin' about last night!" +To the observation of one of the party that he was "going to have a +look about," the other lady made reply, "I guess if you dew it will +be 'hands up' for ten cents with you." On the platform was a United +States marshal, with a revolver stuck in his belt, but his duties were +considered to be punitive rather than preventive. Here Mr. Chase and +Mr. Hawley left us to return to Topeka. At the abschiednehmen Sir H. +Green was affected by a proof of interest in his welfare of a touching +character and very full of local colour; one of our friends beckoned +to him, took him aside, and pulling out a revolver ("It is hands up!" +thought Sir Henry), fully loaded, pressed it on his acceptance in the +kindest manner as a useful _compagnon de voyage_. As we were not to +stay at Deming, the self-sacrifice was not consummated. + +The regular train having come up, our special was tacked on to it, and +in an hour the locomotive puffed out of the depot, and sped westerly +on its way at the rate of twenty miles an hour, across a plain some +fifteen miles broad, bordered by jagged, irregular mountain ranges +north and south, as dry as a bone--so dry that water for the engine +has to be brought to the stations in tanks. A scanty growth of what +looked like camel grass, interspersed euphorbias and cactuses of great +height, was all that met the eye. We are approaching the great basin of +Arizona, and are warned that much dust and great heat must be expected, +and that the "scenery" does not improve in point of variety or verdure, +both of which are nearly at zero. A vigorous, well-directed campaign +against the flies in the saloon gave us comparative repose; then the +blinds being pulled down, and the thermometer reduced to 83 deg., +society settled itself to study, with results indicated presently by +a gentle _susurrus_ on the sofas. A sudden alarm, "Look at the deer!" +There sure enough was a herd of antelopes flying over the scrub towards +the horizon, which flickered about in the heat in a mirage of islands +and uplifted mountain ends--so vanished. + +After passing Lordsburgh, a desolate spot in the desert, there appeared +a beautiful mirage. The sand became a sheet of water, waveless and +mirror-like, and in it we saw reflected in trenchant outline the +mountain range beyond. "It must be water! it is water!" exclaimed an +unbelieving director. And, lo! as he spoke the "dust devils" rose and +danced along the face of the sea; in another minute the vision was +gone; the dazzling sand, white, blank and dull, mocked our senses. +This was near Stein's Pass, up which the train of nine carriages +was climbing--"the heaviest train that has gone over yet," said the +triumphant conductor. "But we thought we'd try it." Each waggon weighed +30 tons. The Pass is three miles long, and we were working at a grade +of 74 feet with a 19-inch cylinder engine. + +Between Pyramid Station and San Simon (_stant nomina umbrarum_--the +names of mere shadows of stations) the western border of New Mexico +is crossed, and we enter the great Territory of Arizona, which lies +between the Rocky Mountains and the Sierra Nevada. + +It is bounded by New Mexico on the east, by Mexico on the south, by +Utah and Nevada on the north and north-west, and by California in +continuation of the western boundary. It is as large as New York, +Pennsylvania, Maryland, New Jersey, and Delaware together. Whom it +belonged to first, so far as occupation constitutes possession, I +know not; but the Spaniards owned and neglected it for more than +three centuries before the Americans possessed it. In 1848 and 1853 +the regions now forming Arizona, New Mexico, Colorado, Utah, and +Nevada were ceded by the descendants of the Spanish conquerors to +the conquering Anglo-American. It would need weeks of assiduous +travel to explore the portion of Arizona where the most interesting +ruins in America, the cities of the Zoltecs or the Aztecs--for the +experts differ respecting their origin--are to be found. The weight +of authority and of recent investigation leads one to believe that the +Aztecs were not the builders of these ruined cities. Humboldt, indeed, +believed that they were; but, as Mr. Hinton remarks, in his capital +little handbook, which I recommend to prospectors, emigrants, tourists, +and travellers, "to suppose such an utter abandonment of settled +habitations, it will be necessary to suppose some strange impelling +reasons, either in climate or other causes, that must have amounted +to a catastrophe. An hypothesis which would leave a whole race able +to conquer an empire, and to preserve power enough to abandon without +destruction their old homes, implies conditions and forces without +a known historical parallel." The conclusion that many native cities +were flourishing when the Spaniards arrived in America may, perhaps, be +questioned. There is a distinctive character about them, differing from +that of the Mississippi mounds, the Central American pyramids, or the +ruined cities of Yucatan. + +The site of one of these cities was pointed out to us from the +train, and that was all we saw of them. But I heard so much about +the mysterious remains that I was induced to procure Mr. Bancroft's +remarkable essay on the native races of the Pacific Coast. Mr. Bancroft +believes that the Pueblos and other Indians, in a state of civilisation +which they subsequently lost, were the earliest inhabitants of these +countries and the builders of the cities; that the Apaches came down +upon them, and their work being then aided by the Spaniards, this +original agricultural people were swept off the face of the earth. +But where the Apaches came from the American ethnologists have not, +I believe, determined. For hundreds of miles these ruins cover the +country--stone houses, ancient watch-towers, and adobe buildings, +around which are quantities of stone implements, masses of crockery and +pottery. In some places there are structures of wood and stone, without +iron, the masonry consisting of thin plates of sandstone dressed on the +edges, and laid in coarse mortar nearly as hard as the stone itself. + +The explorers who have discovered the most interesting cities in +Arizona and elsewhere were officers of the United States army. They +have been the true pioneers of American civilisation in the West, and +it is most creditable to them that they have been able to furnish so +much scientific and antiquarian observation in the execution of their +arduous and often painful duty in Indian warfare. There is no cold +shade cast upon the labours of officers who desire to make a little +reputation for themselves by contributions to scientific publications, +and by papers on natural history and the like in periodical +publications or in the daily press. + +There is, as might be expected from its position, a very high +temperature in Arizona. This lasts from the middle of June to the first +of October. During the best part of summer exertion of any kind is +impossible. Metal objects cannot be handled without producing blisters; +rain scarcely ever falls; and, to keep up the drain of constant +evaporation, a man must drink a gallon or two gallons of water a day. +Mr. Ross Brown, speaking of the summer, declares that "everything +dries. Waggons dry; men dry; chickens dry. There is no juice left in +anything, living or dead, by the close of summer. Officers and soldiers +creak as they walk; chickens hatched at the season come out of the +shell ready cooked. Bacon is eaten with a spoon, and butter must stand +in the sun an hour before the flies become dry enough for use. The +Indians sit in the river with fresh mud on their heads, and, by dint of +constant dipping and sprinkling, manage to keep from roasting, though +they usually come out parboiled." But, although it is recorded that a +party encamped on a narrow cañon where the temperature was 120 degrees, +there was no sunstroke. And in that respect the climate differs from +that on the eastern coast, where, especially this very summer, a great +number of deaths were caused by _coup de soleil_. People, with the +thermometer marking 94 degrees, talk of its being agreeably cold. An +exceedingly interesting fact, if it be one, connected with residence in +this part of the world is the wholesome effect of complete abstinence. +Death from want of water was by no means infrequent in the old days +before so many wells were dug; but it only occurs when there is a good +deal of humidity in the air. Although alcoholic drinks and tobacco have +an injurious effect, there is a large consumption of both at all the +stations and at the mines. + +As in the Orange River Free State, where probably the conditions of +temperature are not very dissimilar, pulmonary complaints are cured, so +a residence in Arizona, it is said, stops consumption; and there are +authentic statements that people who arrived in a rapid decline have +experienced almost immediate relief of the principal symptoms, and have +been finally cured. Governor Safford, in an official letter, states +that his lungs were a good deal diseased, and that he was suffering +with a severe cough when he reached Arizona, and that in six months his +cough left him. He is satisfied the warm, dry atmosphere acted like a +healing balm to diseased lungs, and that, the pores being kept open, +the impurities which attack weak organs escape through the skin. Dr. +Loryea, of San Francisco, and Dr. Sawyer aver that Arizona is nature's +Turkish bath, and that Yuma, that evil-looking place, contains the +fountains of health. + +Of such vast regions a small acquaintance acquired by passing rapidly +twice over a line of railway does not entitle one to speak; but, if +what we read and heard of Arizona be true, there is within its limits +enormous mineral and agricultural wealth. There are carboniferous +basins of great extent and richness. The mountains teem with ore. +Silver and gold, copper pyrites, zinc, and lead are to be found over +a great range, the extent of which is as yet imperfectly known. There +are sulphates of nearly all the metals; metallic oxides, chlorides, +carbonates, nitrates; agates, amethysts, garnets, and other precious +stones. People there are who believe that the diamond, the emerald, and +the ruby will turn up in due time. In fact, if one were to be guided +by the accounts in the papers or the guide-books, he would think that +a sure way of making an immediate fortune would be to settle down on +any hillside in this favourite land. Nevertheless, what I saw out of my +window gave me reason to suppose that there was poverty in Arizona as +well as in the old country. Nor did the buildings which I saw by the +way at the sparse stations and infrequent towns give an idea that the +in-dwellers were well-to-do in the world. The adobe, or burnt brick, +which is a common material in lieu of better, has always a ruinous +appearance. The houses built of it yesterday seem tumbling to pieces +from the influences of old age. + +We take no note of time save by its relation to constant motion, and +to the "programme"--a Procrustean bed on which we have voluntarily +placed our tortured limbs. Sometimes in the hours of the night, which +could not be called still because of the incessant pealing, rattling, +and thundering of the train, I thought of the wonderful ways of man +with himself in such affairs as we were now engaged in. There is a play +of Terence which was a trouble to me in my youth, so long ago that I +remember very little more of it than the dismal and elongated name; +but Mr. "Heautontimorumenos" never needlessly bound himself up in a +programme and delivered his life over to a time-table! It is likely +enough, seeing what sort of man he was, that he would have adopted +that course had he lived in these days. I admit that programmes are +necessary when your movements regulate, or have to be regulated by, +those of other people; and that was the case in some measure with +us, but the solicitude it occasioned the worthy and valued friends, +whose brows I perceived becoming more puckered, and whose faces and +spirits were heavy with cares connected with the programme, to come up +to time, was beyond belief, and I vowed if ever I had my own way with +the ordering of a party I would have no programme at all. And plot and +calculate as you will, a gale of wind, or a heated axle, or a broken +bridge, or a flood, upsets everything, and your schemes gang aglee +utterly! It was admirable to see how we were working out the destiny +we had made manifest for ourselves in advance so long ago, but the task +was not easy. What curious sounds, by the way, our train made at night! +One could now and then compose words to the tune of the wheels, and +the regular rhythm forced one at times to hum the words of a song, of +which the train seemed to hammer out the music. It seemed so strange to +be turning into bed night after night, and waking up to pass the same +life day after day, like a log of wood carried on by an interminable, +irresistible torrent. + +Provided with books and newspapers, and friends to converse with, as +well as with sights to see, we had, however, no reason to complain +that time hung heavy on our hands as the train sped on. The books +were very utilitarian, it is true--Reports of Chambers of Commerce, +statistics and papers connected with railway and commercial enterprise +and the like. But our directors took to that literature with avidity, +and aided by maps and tables, copiously furnished to them, seemed +bent on passing with honours in a competitive examination anent the +American railway system. There were always, close at hand in the cars, +competent authorities to answer questions, or able champions to engage +in controversy, and as I heard all the subtle contentions, which I did +not understand, concerning signalling and baggage checking, gauges and +engines, curves and gradients, freights and fares, I was set to think +what the field had been in which all the ingenuity and talent displayed +in dealing with such topics were exercised in pre-railway days. These +discussions were mostly connected with the consideration of profits +and percentages, and that was a neutral ground on which the combatants +manoeuvred their facts and figures as in a natural "_schauplatz_". +There were times when such investigations ran down like a clock, +and no one wound them up again for a few hours, and then my friends +digested the remains they found on the field of battle and strengthened +themselves for friendly jousting. + +Not very long ago there would have been exceedingly good sporting in +many parts of Arizona. Grizzly bears, common and black bears; pumas, +mountain sheep, jaguars, ocelots, opossums, panthers, wolves, and +lynxes are largely distributed over the hill ranges. There are also +hares and rabbits and many smaller animals. Wild turkeys have much +diminished of late years; but there is a variety of birds, some of +them excellent for the spit. The chase, however, is attended with some +danger, unless one is very well booted and looks out where he treads, +as rattle-snakes abound, and are of exceeding virulence, the black +species being especially deadly. There are horned toads, but these are +harmless. + +For the botanist Arizona is an almost inexhaustible field of +delight. Any one who likes to read of vegetable wonders, or of an +extraordinarily varied flora, cannot do better than get Dr. Loryea's +work, or read 'New Mexico,' by Elias Brevoort. The growth which struck +us most was that of the extraordinary cactus called the candelabra +or Sahuaro. It is worth while going so far as the railway will take +one to see these plants sticking up on the sides of a rock without a +trace of verdure or moisture, rising to the height of 40 or 50 feet, +and throwing out enormous arms at the most grotesque angles, each +varying from the other in shape, the number of its arms, and in the +manner in which they are disposed. This giant cactus is covered with +prickles, and is of a light green colour. It is said that in the old +days the Apache Indians not unfrequently made use of them as handy +means of torture, and nailed their victims to a cactus previous to +setting fire to it. The body of the plant is resinous, and it can +be easily converted into a bonfire. Here and there we saw some with +traces of pale yellow flowers. When these are gone there is a fruit, +which makes an excellent preserve, or can be boiled into sugar. Then +there are prickly pears in great quantities; and there is a "negro-head +cactus," with a round top covered with sharp spines, which furnished +the Mexicans with fish-hooks. "There is a soul of beauty in things +evil." If a thirsty traveller coming upon one of these plants kindles +a fire around it, the juices of its body are gradually concentrated +into a central cavity, where they only wait incision to be liberated +in the form of a pleasant drink, half a gallon or more in quantity. +The appliances for getting a drink out of most of these roots are +described at length in various books of travel; but however useful they +may have been at the time, the activity of the Atchison, Topeka and +Santa Fé Railway will in all probability exempt travellers in future +from any necessity to avail themselves of these ingenious devices. +Trees flourish in spite of the heat and want of water. As various as +the trees are the human inhabitants, and one of the greatest marvels +connected with them, perhaps, is the extraordinary variety of dialects +amongst people of the same race, who lived in the same country long +before the white man came to trouble them. They are decreasing, of +course, in numbers; but in some of the reservations they seem to +have arrested downward progress, and to have taken to some form of +agricultural labour. At present Arizona is the happy hunting-ground +of the unfortunate red man. There is, I am assured, no disposition on +the part of the whites to intrude upon the reservations of the various +tribes. I did not hear of any one who had come in from the East to +settle with the view of making his fortune by farming; but miners have +flooded the cañons, and climbed the mountain-tops; and now they have +settled down into a steady way of life without any big "booms," as the +Americans say, but with prospects of pretty certain returns for their +labour. + +All night we travelled on, and when the morning came, we were still +traversing the desert, still passing through one of the most sterile +wastes on the face of the earth, where, however, by strange contrasts +of nature--or is it strange?--there were in the mountains and in the +ravines rich ores to tempt the cupidity and enterprize of man. We are +continually reminded of similar wastes in India and in Africa; but no +one, as far as I know, has yet discovered any mineral wealth in the +north-western deserts of our Indian Empire. And although Captain Burton +and others have fancied they have come across an El Dorado in Southern +Egypt, and Ibrahim Pasha had such faith in the existence of gold in +those regions that he led forth an expedition to perish there, there +is no such fortune in store for the adventurous miner as awaits him in +Arizona, Colorado, and California. + +_June 1st._--Everyone who has entered Arizona, or left it--and let us +hope he went back all the better for his visit--will recollect Yuma for +ever. + +Yuma is on the Colorado, which divides California from Arizona. +The muddy waters of the river rush with immense velocity past the +buttresses of the fine bridge, with a draw for steamers, that spans +it. The town consists apparently of adobe houses, and these not very +regularly built. I could not visit the main street for lack of time, +but the offshoots within eyeshot of us were not tempting. All we +could see from the railway windows were flat-roofed adobe houses, some +squalid Indians nearly naked, the buildings, with the Stars and Stripes +over them, of the United States post on the left bank, and a few wooden +sheds. It is said to be one of the hottest places in the world, and +certainly looked dry and dusty. They say that a soldier who died there +and went to an unmentionable place, returned in the spirit to beg for +a blanket, as he felt so cold! + +More happily constituted travellers than most of us have seen something +pleasing in the aspect of the country roundabout, and have been moved +to much admiration by the various tints of the hills in the distance, +and by the rocks which constitute the near limits of the valley through +which the river passes. In the old days, when the stage-coaches offered +the only means of travelling through the district, there might have +been a good deal to see along the road; but the rail generally avoids +sights, and where nature is at its best, the engineer strikes deep down +and burrows if he can. The colours of the hills are bright and varied; +the lava rocks are of many shades, and the sun, piercing through strata +of pure air, illuminates them with great vividness and force; but after +a time the eye tires of the uniform hues of the landscape. For a few +miles the rail runs close to the river, then plunges into the most +remorseless, cruel waste of sand and rock, spread out up to the foot of +the rugged hills of the Barnardino Range, I ever beheld--an abomination +of desolation compared with which the Libyan Desert or the plains of +Scinde were the Garden of the Hesperides. I cannot describe, nor could +I at any time hope to succeed in giving an adequate conception of this +dreadful wilderness. For 107 miles west there is not a drop of water to +be found; the stations are dependent on the railway for their supplies. +But Nature, as if to take away the reproach of permitting such a vast +blotch on her fair face, kindly threw in Fata Morgana. We saw with +delight widespread lakes with fairy islands in the midst; placid seas +washing the base of the distant hills. This baked and dreary expanse +extends nearly to San Gorgonio. We were spared the sandstorms which are +so dreadful, nor did we experience inconvenience from the dust. The +traveller, who has begun to despair of ever seeing anything greener +than giant cacti and the adamantine vegetation which dispenses with +water, is agreeably surprised as he approaches Los Angeles. If he +be as fortunate as we were in having such friends as Colonel Baker +and his wife to take charge of him, he will be amply repaid for far +greater discomforts than any he experienced in the Colorado desert. +From Los Angeles there is a railway to Santa Monica, seventeen miles +distant, which belongs to Colonel Baker; and I would advise every one +who can, either to spare or make the time for a diversion to that +most delightful spot. Judge of the pleasure we felt when, after a +picturesque run through orange groves, vineyards, and fields of corn +and barley, we gazed on the waters of the Pacific--"θαλαττα! θαλαττα!" +What a glorious scene! the broad bay lighted by the rays of the +declining sun; the blue waves rolling on in solemn march, and +breaking in long lines of foam on the dazzling sand, and nearer +still the gardens and trees of the Pacific Biarritz which was about +to welcome us! Our palace-car and its attendant carriages shot into a +siding close to the beach. In a few minutes "every man Jack" was off to +the bathing establishment to conform to the regulations ere we plunged +into the sea. It is an orthodox bathing-place of the highest order. The +Baths are extensive, and provided with every convenience and comfort +for ladies and invalids; hot and cold, salt water and fresh, for those +who do not like to trust themselves to the sea. A rope extended seaward +to hold on by was needful, for the surf was heavy and the undertow +strong. The water was delicious. Generally there is less sea on, and it +is never too hot or too cold for bathing. Next morning we had another +bath in a still rougher Pacific. The Duke and some of the party were +driven about the country by Colonel and Mrs. Baker, and at 3 P.M., to +our sorrow, we left the most lovable little spot of all we have seen +on this continent. Good fortune be in store for Santa Monica! At Los +Angeles, where carriages were waiting, we drove through the streets and +suburbs, which enabled us to appreciate the reasons which induced the +Spanish founders to give the city its name. In the evening we continued +our journey, passing in the dark over the feat of engineering called +the Loop. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +THE YOSEMITE VALLEY. + + A new Land of Goshen--A Jehu indeed--The Drive to Clarke's--A + Mountain Hostelry--Grizzlies--Fascination Point--The + Merced--Yosemite Fall--A Salute--Mountain Airs--The Mirror + Lake--"See that Rattle?"--A Philosophic Barber. + + +_June 2nd._--It is astonishing how soon one gets accustomed to the +rattle and rumble of the rail, and sleeps all the night through after +a time, waking up only when a train stops at a station, just as a +miller is roused by the cessation of the clock of the mill-wheel. We +keep good hours, and so at 4.30 this morning I was looking out of the +window at a sea of blue mountain ridges upon the west, which looked +like the waves of the ocean, so varied in the serrated edges was the +line of stony waves which seemed as if they were about to sweep down +over the great stretch of prairie. We were passing through a new land +of Goshen, at least that was the name which I detected on the station +board, indicating a junction with another line, and early as was the +hour the door of the hospitable restaurant was open, and gentlemen +in front were to be seen drawing their hands across their lips as if +they had been taking a refresher in the early morning. Close at hand +the country was perfectly flat, covered with glorious crops nearly +ripe for the sickle, and indeed cut and stacked in some places. Water +appeared abundant; a river flowing west was visible at intervals, its +course marked by a line of trees. Large black cranes stalked about in +the meadow-like fields, and hares sat up on end to take a look at the +train. The paucity of human beings, except at the rare stations, was +remarkable; only when I say "rare," perhaps I am scarcely justified, +as there were little wooden huts at intervals perhaps of ten or twelve +miles, where a saloon announced itself, and a possible ticket-office. + +On the east of the plain through which the line runs, the peaks of +the Sierra Nevada were visible, but the journey was rather monotonous +all the same, and we were glad when our train halted at Madera, about +ninety miles from Goshen, where we were to get out and start on our +expedition to the Yosemite Valley. Especial arrangements had been +made for our conveyance, but I almost doubt now whether it would not +have been better for us to have taken the ordinary carriage which +leaves Madera every day, except Monday, for the Yosemite Valley, at +7.45, arriving at Clarke's or Bruce's in somewhat less than twelve +hours, so as to bring daylight with it to the halting-place; a very +desirable thing, as we soon found out. It was 8 o'clock before our +party started from Madera, in two Kendal carriages with four horses +each. In one was the Duke, Lady Green, Mr. Stephen, and myself, with +Crockett on the box; in another were Sir Henry Green, Mr. Wright, Major +Anderson, and Mr. Jerome. Our driver was a man with the impossible +name of MacLenathan, a resolute, dry, taciturn man, with a good face, +seamed with the exposure to sun and rain of many years on the box. +But he told us he had deserted it lately, and had taken to the work +of livery stable keeper, only coming out on this occasion as driver to +do honour to the Duke. As it turned out, it was well his right and his +left hand had not lost their cunning. The driver of the other carriage +was a noted character, rejoicing in the name of "Buffalo Bill," and +later on we had reason to feel very thankful to him also for the +possession of great pluck and nerve. For some ten or twelve miles the +route, which consists of mere wheel tracks over the prairie, runs over +moderately undulating land. On the right there is a shoot or _flume_ +for carrying down timber from the upper part of the mountain ridge +fifty miles away. The dust was troublesome, and the rapid motion of +the four horses scarcely saved us from the roasting sun. The scenery +was not interesting; indeed, the great object of attraction was the +little Californian quail with his pretty crest, running across through +the grass or jumping up upon a stump to have a look at the travellers. +Stage stables were far apart, but the speed was fair, and it was +astonishing to see the excellent condition in which the horses were +at the end of their long canter, and what capital steeds were taken +out of the stalls, in which they were feeding on barley-straw, to +be put into the traces. I think the average length of the stages was +about twelve miles. We lost about an hour at a little mining village +where we halted for dinner, a place called Coarse Gold, as well as +I recollect, consisting of the usual buildings, a few shanties, the +store, the hotel, far better than might have been expected, and a sort +of wigwam or one-storeyed house, in front of which were assembled a +number of "Digger Indians," degraded specimens of a degraded tribe. +They sat looking at the new arrivals in the most apathetic manner, +just as they might regard so many flies. The men were dressed in a +compromise of old Indian attire, leather leggings and deerskin jackets, +with European clothing, caps, bad hats and trousers, and old boots, +the women swathed ungracefully in what seemed to be pieces of blanket, +their legs encased in folds of dirty cotton. One of these Diggers was +very slightly dressed, and as it is intensely cold in the winter, we +asked him whether he did not feel the effect of the frost and snow. +He knew a little English, and made the most of it. "When your body is +covered you do not feel the cold," he said; "But your face is always +uncovered, and yet you do not feel the cold there. An Indian's body is +all face." And that was all the explanation he would vouchsafe to us. +Somehow or another, what with delays at the stations, possibly caused +by our being out of the regular running, and being an interpolation on +the ordinary course of travel, and possibly owing to our reduced speed, +for the carriages with four horses did not, it seems, go as fast as +the public conveyance with six, it was getting dark as we approached +the line of wooded hills, in a valley in which, many miles away, lay +our halting-place for the night. The result of our delay in starting, +concerning which the driver had been severe from time to time, was +startlingly manifest as the coaches mounted the steep ascents of one of +the most tortuous roads in the world. The spurs of the hills come down +very sharply to the valley, and the road is carried round by a series +of very severe gradients following the contour of the mountain-chain, +so that at one time there is a deep gorge on your left, and then, as +the road leaves that spur with the valley on that side and crosses to +another spur, there is a great descent on the right, so that you are +continually passing along by a series of precipices, to which, in our +case, the fast gathering gloom imparted additional horror. Through the +sighing of the wind in the trees aloft came the roar of the torrents +down below. The drivers went along at a good steady canter, and from +time to time, as we came round a sharp curve, I dare say the thought +was in every one's mind, what would happen if one of the leaders +fell, or if the driver slipped his hand in gathering up the reins to +go round the corner. The scenery became more wild and formidable, so +to speak, at every fresh turn. The colossal trees, which challenged +admiration in the daytime, closed up in greater volume, darkening the +narrow road completely, so that in an hour after entering upon the +mountain-range it became as black as pitch. The lamps of Buffalo Bill +in the leading carriage were some guide to our driver. He had none, +and it was with anxiety, renewed every ten minutes or so, that we saw +the lights in front describe a graceful curve, which showed that they +were passing by one of the dips or cuts of the road. It needed skill +and judgment for MacLenathan to conduct the carriage, because if he +drove too close to that in front of us, the clouds of dust obscured +the view, and if he dropped too far behind he lost the benefit of the +lights. By enormous trunks of trees, by piles of timber, through deep +cuttings in the rock, plashing over watercourses, descending swiftly +into river-beds, and splashing through the fords over boulders, then +climbing up steep hillsides, on and on, it seemed as though the night +would never come to an end, and we inwardly, and audibly too, expressed +our regret that we had not started a little earlier; but still there +was an almost pleasurable excitement in holding on as we swept round +one of these terrible gorges, and tried to look down into the gulf +beneath. That last stage seemed interminable, but towards 9 o'clock at +night the driver of the coach in front announced that we were getting +"near at last"; and lucky it was, for his lights were giving out. "It +is just as well that they did not," said our driver, "because it would +be bad for you." "Why?" "Well," he said, "you would just have to get +out and walk! I would not undertake to drive any one in the dark along +such a road as this." Presently we heard the noise of rushing water, +and gained the bank of a stream flowing with swiftness over a shingle +bed. This we crossed, and in half an hour more, through the dark belt +of trees in front, lights were discerned, and, crossing another stream +and a bridge, our wearied horses were pulled up in front of the hotel, +a large wooden building, on the steps of which were the landlord and +his staff, and most of the inmates turned out to greet and inspect +the travellers who had been long expected. "It is a bad country to go +driving about in the dark," said Mr. Bruce, the landlord, a sentiment +in which we thoroughly agreed. There was a supper in the common +room, to which, albeit the fare was primitive enough, we did ample +justice. Travellers have complained of the charges along the road, but, +considering the distance which all articles have to be carried to the +Valley, the heavy duties, and the shortness of the season, I do not +think that any one with experience of Swiss inns would complain much; +and if the traveller desires to drink claret, he must not be astonished +if he pays eight or nine shillings a bottle for it. The ordinary fare, +at hotel prices, is quite good enough for hungry people, and eggs, +milk, and bread are abundant, and not dear. The bedrooms, sufficiently +simple in all their appointments, are good enough to be welcome to +tired people, for there is a fair bed to lie upon, and the sheets, as +far as our experience went, were clean and fresh. Nor were the insect +horrors, of which we may have some knowledge in parts of Europe, to be +dreaded, not even mosquitoes at this time of year. + +Soon after dawn a thunderstorm broke over the valley, hail and torrents +of rain, and the landlord congratulated us upon the cooling effect +it would have on the air, and on the absence of dust, which is rather +troublesome at times. It was necessary to make an early start in the +morning, for it is a long journey to the Yosemite. For some years past +the Valley has become a kind of American Chamouni, and if Americans +swarm over Europe in search of the sublime and beautiful, they cannot +be accused of neglecting altogether their own country. The first thing +I saw, on walking out on the verandah of the hotel, was the stage-coach +and six horses, with eight ladies and nine gentlemen, loading up for +the Valley. They had arrived late the night before, a little in advance +of us, and yet the ladies, bravely attired for the road, were all in +their place in the _char à bancs_ long before 7. Travellers frequently +stay at Bruce's, and our host promises good sport to any one who will +make it his headquarters; but I cannot speak with any confidence on +that point myself; still I should think it a very pleasant quarter for +a man who had nothing else to do, and who had an aptitude for climbing, +to go about looking out big game. We heard talk of pheasants, but +saw none: the bird which is called by that name not being entitled +to it, according to ornithologists. In front of the hotel was laid +out the skin of a cinnamon bear, which had been shot by an Austrian +gentleman--"Count Fritz Thumb," the landlord called him--a few days +previously, and which was to be sent after him as a trophy of his +skill. "But," says Boniface, "it was not he shot him at all; it was 'is +old Injun hunter." Grizzlies, he said, were rare, but they were to be +found if you went up high enough, and as he spoke he pointed up to the +mountains towering away in the distance in grand Alpine proportions. +Deer were common enough, and there were some tame specimens of the +ordinary black deer running about in the enclosure. We had an early +start, but not quite so early as the Americans; and it was wonderful +how well our four hardy horses did the first stage, six and twenty +miles, including some very sharp ascents from the Hotel. + +From time to time we got out and walked up the sharp bits, diverging +to the right or left to gather the lovely flowers which grew on +the roadside, or halting to admire the giant trees which clothed +the mountain ridges. Pitiable ignorance! not to know the names of +the plants or shrubs or wonderful bunches of blossoms, among which +fluttered the most magnificently coloured butterflies. Woodpeckers +of many different species uttered their quaint notes in jerky flight +from tree to tree, or peered at the travellers from the shelter of +the branches. Firs, pines, and spruces of enormous size, and trees +to me unknown, formed a dense forest on each side of the road; but +now and then we caught glimpses of the stupendous ranges of the alps +beyond. It was lamentable to see the waste and wreck wrought in this +wondrous wealth of timber--reckless, wicked waste. Charred trunks +stood with leafless arms withered and black, or lay prone among the +ferns in myriads. This was, we were told, the work of shepherds, who +think nothing of setting fire to one of the finest trees in the world +to warm themselves for an hour, and are delighted with a conflagration +which may lay a hillside in ashes. And the Indians too are held to +have their share in the destruction. There was enough of timber wasted +and destroyed mile after mile to build a city. The nemesis must come; +already the alarm has been sounded, and the State authorities here and +elsewhere are trying to prevent the mischief. I have often had occasion +to regret my ignorance of botany _inter alia_; but never did I feel it +more than when I was walking up the road, on each side of which was a +carpet of flowers, a maze of shrubs and plants--dense brushwood--to not +one of which could I give a name. We arrived at the Halfway House at +12.35 as much pleased as the horses which brought us there so well at +the respite, for it was an awful "pull up," and the coachman did his +work at high pressure. In the course of our pilgrimage we had found a +very pleasant _divertissement_. The Major, Mr. White, and Mr. Jerome +had excellent voices, and from time to time they burst into song, +giving with great effect the quaint negro melodies, which are now made +familiar to us in London, from a very large _répertoire_; and so the +afternoon passed in quiet enjoyment as we climbed the hills on foot or +in the carriages--snatches of talk, exclamations of wonder and delight, +and outbursts of the 'Golden Slipper,' 'O! that 'Possum,' 'The Ark,' +'John Brown,' 'Tramp, Tramp,' and other choruses. + +It was near 4 o'clock when the driver, who had been silent for some +time, looking round at us occasionally as one who would say, "Wait a +little till I surprise you," suddenly pulling up, said, "Now, here you +are. This is Fascination Point! Won't you get down a bit?" And, lo! +there indeed lay before us a scene of indescribable grandeur. I know +nothing like the effect produced by Yosemite Valley when seen for the +first time from this point. It has a characteristic which no other +similar view I am acquainted with possesses. You take in at one glance +stupendous mountain-ranges, all but perpendicular, beyond which you see +the snowy crests of the great Sierra, the profound valley between them, +a long vista of extraordinary magnificence, of cascades and precipitous +waterfalls, and far down below a silvery river rushing through a +forest composed of the noblest trees in the world, with patches of +emerald-green sward and bright meadows. + +I see that by a slip of the pen I have miscalled the place from which +we got our first view of the wondrous scene. But I have a right to +change the name for my own use. What the driver said was "Inspiration +Point." I prefer my mistake, for the view inspires you with no feeling +save that of wonder and delight. These sublime scenes appear to be +beyond the reach of poetry. Niagara and the Yosemite have not yet +found a laureate. The peculiar and unique feature of the valley seems +to me to be the height and boldness of the cliffs which spring out +from the mountain-sides like sentinels to watch and ward over the +secrets of the gorge; next to that is the number and height of the +waterfalls; but it is only by degrees and by comparison that the mind +takes in the fact that the cliffs are not hundreds, but thousands +of feet high--that these bright, flashing, fleecy cataracts fall for +thousands of feet--that the rent which has been torn in the heart of +the mountains, till it is closed by the awful granite portals beyond +which no mortal may pass, extends for miles. I thought as I gazed +that it were pity to descend, lest a nearer view might destroy the +effect of that _coup d'oeil_; but the driver had regulated the period +for rapture. He whipped us up to our places by word of mouth, and +the carriages renewed their course, now striking by bold zigzags down +into the valley for our destination, which was still six miles away. I +shall not attempt to describe my own feelings, far less can I pretend +to tell what others, probably far more susceptible of the beauty and +grandeur of what we beheld than I am, may have felt at the succession +of the awe-inspiring revelations of the tremendous grandeur of the +Valley which came upon us. What is the use of rolling off a catalogue +of names and figures?--even the brush of the painter, charged with +the truest colours and guided by the finest hand and eye, could never +do justice--that is, could never give a just idea of these cliffs and +waterfalls. "El Capitan! Oh, that's the name, is it? Three thousand +three hundred feet high!" And then you try to take in what that means. +"And it's 3500 feet down to the Valley? Dear me!" "And that is the +Cathedral Rock? And those two peaks are the Spires? I don't exactly see +the resemblance; do you?" + +There was a sort of wail of delight from us all as we came on the +"Bridal Veil Fall"; and I do not think any one cared to know that it +was just 60 short of 1000 feet high! Surely one of the most graceful, +lovely _chutes d'eau_ on earth, lost though it be from view behind the +rocks at the close of its feathery flight! But there was no stopping to +look at anything; relentless Fate drove us down and on, till the wheels +rolled more evenly, and at last we came to the bed of the valley--some +1800 yards broad, opening out here and there yet wider--and we +rejoiced in the sight of the bright clear water of the Merced, child +of innumerable icy mothers, flashing, sparkling, dashing and brawling, +like a myriad Lodores, between her banks decked with flowers and +covered with forest trees. + +Suddenly there dashed out of a glade two cavaliers, and made full tilt +at the leading carriage. "To arms!" Not a bit of it! Nor banditti +or Injuns--of whom we had met one or two riding sullenly along to +the hunting-grounds--no, only two hotel touts armed with cards of +self-commendation, and not apparently in much rivalry, for when told +that we had engaged our hotel, they galloped off to waylay other +travellers, of whose coming they were apprized by our driver. Our +hotel, I may say by the way, gave us full contentment. The site was +admirable, commanding a full and near view of _the_ Fall of Falls--the +Yosemite--which had so fascinated our eyes that we could scarce divert +them to any other object--not "Widow's Tears," or "Virgin's Tears," +nor the "Three Brothers," not anything but the Yosemite! And so, when +our rooms were pointed out, we made off to the spot where the fine +cloudlike vapour rising above the tree-tops indicated the basin into +which the waters sought rest after their troubled leap. + +Our way lay through the usual gathering of stores, hotels, livery +stables for the horses and ponies needed for the excursions, and +curiosity dealers' shops, to the village street, as it may be termed, +shadowed by fine trees, under which reposed some Indians--one of whom, +an Amazon in yellow toga, went riding full gallop past us, her hair +falling in a black mat on her shoulders, sitting low, in Melton style, +regardless of poultry, children, and boulders, and vanishing in a cloud +of dust under the trees. Then we turned to the left and crossed the +river by a rustic bridge; and as I looked down into the dancing waters +certain shadow-like objects flew up against the current. "Trout?" +asked I. "Yes, they're trout. They take 'em--when they dew--five +pounds weight. The Injuns catch 'em. We don't understand it as well." +A short walk, with eyes ever up-turned, and we come out to a moraine, +and, clambering up over a mass of trunks of trees and decaying timber, +_the_ Falls were before us--I cannot write more--no adjective will do. +"Two thousand six hundred and thirty-four feet, mind!" says the voice. +"I don't care," thought we, "it's the most beautiful and wonderful +water-jump ever seen by human eye." "It only remains," as they say, to +state that there is first, falling over a sheet of granite straight as +a wall, a considerable river, which in the plunge comes down at once +1600 feet. There, in a basin of rock, it collects its scattered forces, +under cover of eternal spray and cloud, and then takes another header +of 434 feet to a barrier of granite, against which it rages for a mad +moment, till it swells over and escapes from control by another spring +of 600 feet sheer down--and now it is free, and rushes past at our +feet, a joyous flashing stream. + +We returned through the meadows from the Falls, and as I was walking +in advance of the party a snake wriggled across the path, which I +struck at instinctively with my stick, and was lucky enough to kill +at the first blow. I exhibited the carcass, or whatever a snake's +dead body may be, in triumph to my companions. Further on our way we +fell in with an old Frenchman who was carrying a basket of fruit from +his little garden to the inn. With all the courtesy of his country, +he offered to Lady Green the choicest in his little _corbeille_. He +came from Lorraine very long ago to prospect in the States, almost the +earliest of the pioneers, but he was still strong and active, and he +pointed with great satisfaction up to a white flag planted on a dizzy +height above, which he said he had placed with his own hands. The chief +livery stable keeper is a German named Stegman. The first ascent of the +Dome was made by a young Scotchman named Anderson, from Montrose; so +with Indians, Americans, Mexicans, Europeans, there is a very liberal +representation of the nations of the world, in the season, in the +valley. Mr. Hutchinson, the Conservator of the Valley--one with all +the enthusiasm of the American character in everything pertaining to +the country, aggravated in this instance by an intense admiration for +the valley over which he is appointed to watch--joined us at dinner in +the little inn. Full of information, bubbling over with anecdote and +illustration, and replete with all kinds of knowledge concentrated upon +the one object--the Valley--the Valley--and nothing but the Valley. +He knows its history since the time it was first discovered, and its +natural history and geological formation, and all about the Indians who +lived there and their traditions. It so happened that the Commissioners +of the State of California, who are bound to visit the public +domains, were also at the hotel, and so we had quite an unofficial and +ceremonious meeting; and presently, as we stood in front of the hotel +gazing up on the peaks, lighted up by the stars, and listening to the +thunder of the waterfall, a startling report burst out on the night, +and in another instant the echoes repeated from rock to rock were +crashing through the Valley with the roar of heaven's artillery. It +was the first gun of a salute ordered by the Commissioners to be fired +in honour of the Duke's arrival. The effect was very fine, but I doubt +whether I did not feel full of resentment at the outburst, very much as +the owls and night-hawks might have been expected to feel, if one could +judge from their cries. However, even a salute and echoes must come to +an end, and as we were to get up early to start for the Mirror Lake, we +turned in to bed at an early hour; not, however, to sleep, because the +indefatigable and numerous company in the public room, off which were +our bedrooms, were in high spirits, and the song and the dance, to the +accompaniment of an invalid piano, for some time asserted their sway. + +Mr. Hutchinson had the Duke out early, because it is one of the +obligations to see the sun rise, reflected in the Mirror Lake--if +you can. There is no fear of cloud or rain. In the Mirror Lake is +reflected--or was as we saw it--the precipice at the other side of the +Valley, the bulk of Mount Watkins (so called from a photographer who +has been daring and successful in his renderings of the Yosemite), and +all the surrounding scenery. Once a friend and I saw a cow on its back +in the air, by the shore of a Highland lake. The surface was smooth as +that of the Mirror before us now. It was flapping its tail from side to +side, and its forelegs were up in the sky. We could not make it out at +first. There was, in fact, a cow standing near the water of the loch; +and what we saw was a reflection of the animal, actually stronger and +better defined than the object itself. So it was with the reflections +in the Mirror Lake; but when the sun rose over the cliff and we looked +at the water, the glare was too dazzling. "It was," as Mr. Wright +remarked, "like the electric light." There were curious optical effects +produced, some being troubled with purple, others with green or yellow +in their eyes, after a vain attempt to look at the reflection, but that +did not last long. + +We returned to breakfast to make an early start for Union and Glacier +Points on ponies. Among the company at the hotel, introduced by Mr. +Hutchinson, there was a young lady who was well acquainted with the +Valley, and who proved to be a very agreeable companion in our mountain +ride; but it was not long ere she was candid enough to let it be known +that she did not visit the Yosemite out of love of the picturesque and +beautiful, but that she was interested in the sale of photographs of +the Valley, and was, in fact, a very persuasive and efficient agent of +a firm in San Francisco, who had thus established an outlying picket of +great activity and vigilance; and I am sure we all hope she may always +be as successful with the visitors as she was with us. Of what we saw +from the Glacier Point I must leave others to write or speak. It is +reached by a zigzag on the mountain-side--a peculium of the maker, and +all the "trails," as they are called, in the valley are the property +of individuals or firms who are paid by tariff, and we heard "Eleven +gone up before--Duke Sutherland, Lady Green, Sir Green, Mr. Wright, Mr. +Russell, Mr. Jerome coming! Sixteen coming up behind!" On the plateau +behind the cliffs, from which you look down on the Valley and at the +snowfields on the mountain ranges opposite, there is a log house and +shanty, and there we had a mountain meal ere we began the descent. + +Nothing in the way of riding is more disagreeable than going down +a very sharp mountain-side on a pony not, for all you know, very +sure-footed, and so instead of riding, I resolved to walk, now and +then taking a short cut, to the great discomfiture of feet and boots, +although it is three thousand feet to the bottom, and make the best +of my way and the most of the road, which is very fair, down the zig +zags. I reached the plain thoroughly hot and tired, and bathed in +perspiration, in fifty-seven minutes. The horsekeeper, who came down +with the rest of the party, seemed to have been affected by the rarity +of the atmosphere or something else up at the mountain hostelry, for +he insisted on it that I had ridden down, and demanded his horse. +"What the thunder, Russell, have you done with my horse?" he asked +again and again. Satisfied for the time by my assurances that I had +not ridden at all, he went off, and then, thinking over the matter, +came back again to repeat his question, till I told him I would not +answer it any more. He was an amusing fellow in his way, and affable. +He called the Duke "Sutherland," now and then putting Mr. before it. +As he was watering his horses, he said: "Here, Mister Sutherland, lay +hold of the bucket, will you, whilst I take a turn at this one." And +the Duke did so with alacrity. It was a day of incessant activity. No +sooner had the mountain party come down than they were off again to +drive through the Valley. The rest of our party had already executed +masterly investigations at the foot of all the waterfalls; admired +the Bridal Veil and the Widow's Tear, as one cascade is satirically +termed, "because," says the guide, "it dries up in six months;" had +driven and ridden everywhere and seen everything, and we had to do the +same; but it would need a week of conscientious work to exploit the +Valley thoroughly. At half-past 7, the dinner hour, the little inn was +swarming with people; the stage had arrived with fresh contingents. +Every place was full, and what with the clatter of knives and forks, +the clamour of waiters, the tumult of voices laughing and talking, +it was scarcely possible to conceive that a few short years ago this +valley was in the exclusive possession of the Indian and the wild +beast. There is now, however, a great conflict of interests, and Mammon +is holding his revels in the Valley. The State has voted a certain +sum of money, twenty-five thousand dollars, I think, to buy up the +interests of the trail-makers; that is, those who struck out and made +paths to the various objects of attraction; but no success has yet been +attained in the negotiations, and, indeed, I should think it a very +bad investment for most of them to accept their share of such a sum. +Macaulay, for example, who made the path up to the point from which +we descended to-day, must make many hundreds of dollars in the height +of the season, as he charges so much a visitor, and, besides, has a +restaurant where they take their meals at the top. + +Next day (June 5th) we left the Yosemite with the satisfactory +assurance that we had made the most of our time, though we could not +believe we had done it justice. There were some small "nuages" on the +face of our "Mirror Lake," caused by changes in the mode of conveyance; +but we found six horses and one of the coaches of the country were +better than four horses and two carriages of less capacity. Yosemite, +I may tell my readers, means "Grizzly Bear" (it may be "Great Grizzly +Bear"); but we only heard of one having been thereabouts for a long +time, and I believe it was thoroughly tamed. After a glorious day in +the woods, clambering up the steep from the Valley, and then on by the +road--the only one--to Clarke's, halted there for the night, when we +returned from a ceremonious visit to the "Big Trees." We had a most +delightful ride from Bruce's, and a hard canter back through the woods +on capital ponies, full of life and action, and very sure-footed, but +rather inclined to have their own way, which was not always that of +the rider. We turned into bed at Bruce's, quite delighted with our +expedition, and rather anxious to see the road we had traversed in the +dark by the garish light of day. Every traveller's tale, and every +guide-book of recent date relating to this part of the world, has a +full account of the dimensions, number, appearance, and condition of +these wonders of the world. They are either prostrate, mutilated, or +decaying; not one has survived the stormy life he must have led for +some 3000 years--a few hundreds more or less do not signify. Those +which remain upright are scarred by fire and lightning, and drop their +monster arms, hung with ragged foliage and sheets of bright moss, +mournfully over the ground where their trunks will repose in time to +come. I cannot conceive any object of the kind so magnificent as one +of those Washingtonias in the full vigour of mature treehood; but we +could only fancy what it must have been like by measuring the stems, +for there was not anywhere in the forest a tree to be seen which had +not suffered. The best way to visit the scene--for it may well be +called so--is to strike out from the road on the way to the Yosemite +before the halt at Bruce's; but the hotel-keepers and stage-drivers +will persuade the stranger, if they can, to defer the excursion till +his return from the Valley, so as to make a half-day more out of him. + +_June 6th._--All up at 5 o'clock, and off soon after 6 A.M. The first +stage, eleven miles, we did in two hours and ten minutes--a very +pretty road; the second stage, eight miles, in forty-four minutes. The +ravages made by fires are most deplorable. We had passed through this +great forest track in the dark, but now seen in the morning light, the +trunks of magnificent trees rotting on the ground, or standing upright +with lifeless arms, consumed at the base, were visible everywhere. +It is difficult to find out the exact truth about the cause of these +fires. Some few people said "it was the Indians," but the weight of +testimony attributes them to the shepherds, who for the most trifling +purposes kindle a great fire. In some of the large trees they have +hollowed out regular chambers, and of course the tree dies. Such waste +of timber! For mile after mile we passed scenes of desolation which +ere long those who allowed them will have cause to regret. From time +to time we encountered on the road trains of waggons drawn by teams of +handsome mules with bells, and had occasion to admire the economy of +labour exhibited in the management, by which the driver is enabled to +work a powerful break with one hand whilst he drives with the other. +The next stage, of fourteen miles, was over an exceedingly bad road; +but the horses were good, and we rattled along at a capital speed down +towards the plain. Once the quick-eyed driver, pulling up suddenly, +said, "See that rattle?" leaped down and made towards the bush; and +as we followed him, sure enough we heard distinctly the noise of the +snake, which he had intercepted on its way to a rabbit hole. It took +refuge in a clump of bushes with gnarled roots, and coiled itself round +one of the branches; but by a course of judicious and rather nervous +poking it was driven from its vantage ground, and trying to escape was +killed by the driver with a blow of his whip, followed by a good many +unnecessary strokes from the rest of the party. It was over three feet +long, and had just been making an evening meal upon a rabbit, which it +had left where we had startled it; and it was evident from its swollen +appearance that it had been for some time engaged in the warren close +at hand. + +At 10.20 we reached Fresno, which is what the Americans call "quite +a place," containing not only an hotel, a restaurant, and a store, +but a shop where photographs were exhibited. The _chef-d'oeuvre_, a +portrait of a Spanish lady 140 years of age, living at Los Angeles, did +not, however, commend itself to our taste. We halted at Coarse Gold at +11.40, and left at 12.35. Mr. Jerry Loghlan--who excused himself for +not working on the ground that "there was no use in it, as there was +nothing to be had," the mines being worked "out"--whose acquaintance we +had made on the way up, a huge, broad-shouldered _vaurien_, was still +hanging about with his specimens of quartz, gold, and rattlesnakes' +tails, and a black eye recently acquired in battle. + +After a long, hot, and dusty drive, it was with no small gratification +we made out on the flat the houses of Madera, and after a time the +carriages of the special train. The air is so bright and pure that the +distances are very deceptive, and it was nearly 5 o'clock P.M. before +we reached the station, which had been visible for more than an hour +previously. It was pleasant news to hear that the little German barber +at the way-side had got baths all ready. In the rear of his shop there +was a row of apartments, each provided with a clean zinc bath, hot and +cold water to turn on at discretion, and an abundance of towels. This +in the centre of a waste seemed very creditable to the civilisation +of the people. I should like to know in what part of Europe you would +get similar comfort under similar circumstances. I am afraid there are +many parts of the British Islands where a traveller would demand such +a luxury in vain. And the barber was there to shave those who needed +it, and to give you all the news of the day if you wanted it. He was +a Prussian, and he grinned from ear to ear as, in reply to my question +whether he had served, he said: "Serve, indeed! Not I. I came away and +escaped from all that nonsense. There is not a king or an emperor or a +prince that I would fight for. Why should I?" "But," said I, "you would +have to fight for the Republic here if it were in danger; and that +would not be fighting for your fatherland." "Yes," said he, "it would, +for this is my fatherland now. But I do not want to fight for it either +if I can help it. Fighting is nonsense." + +Our excellent stewards received us, if not with open arms, with smiling +faces. The carriages were trim and clean and fresh, the tables spread +out, and all kinds of dainties provided for the evening meal. We rested +quietly for the night in the siding at Madera, and got under weigh at +5 o'clock on the morning of June 7th, the train being timed so as to +reach San Francisco at 12.30. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +SAN FRANCISCO. + + The Palace Hotel--General McDowell--Palo-Alto--The + "Hoodlums"--The Real Sir Roger--Exiles in the Far West--The + Chinese Population--For and Against them--The Sand Lot--Fast + Trotters--The Sea Lions--The Diamond Palace--The Coloured + Population--"Eastward Ho!" + + +The British Consul, Mr. Booker, who has been watching over the +interests of the Queen's subjects for some thirty years here, and who +is an institution by himself, met the train at a place called, I think, +Porta Costa, and welcomed the Duke and his friends. There had been +for some days an infusion of the Chinaman in the general element of +life along the line, but here it became concentrated, and then ceased +to attract much attention. As the train approached the wide expanse +of muddy water from the Sacramento, which charges down with impetuous +volume, and colours the bay with its turbid stream, we could form an +idea of some of the advantages in the expanse of navigable river, that +had, however, lain long without appreciation but for the bright red +gold possessed by San Francisco. The bay is animated; white canvassed +craft stud its waters, and the smoke of steamers pollutes the clear, +bracing air. Italian fishermen are busy with line and net, and flights +of ducks and squadrons of gulls and cormorants show that the waters +are well stocked. It was too late in the year to see the country in +the full affluence of its wealth of fruit and crops, of hay and corn, +and the hillsides and fields are now disappointingly brown. Presently +we arrived at Oakland, where the train was run out on a pier 3500 +yards long, to the steam ferry-boat which was to convey us across +to San Francisco. The ferry-boat was crowded, for Oakland is a city +of some 50,000 people; and of course it had once on a time, not very +remote, only a few sheds and insignificant houses. From this side of +the bay the city of the Golden Gate, some miles away, was now visible +in all its pride of place--pride but not beauty, now at least--for the +city presents no great attraction to the eye. The streets, running in +parallel lines at right angles to the quay right up the sandy hillside, +look like the ribs of some stranded monster, "lank and lean and +brown." The most prominent object is the hotel to which we are going, +which towers far over the general level of house-top, steeple, and +factory-chimney. + +There is a little pamphlet, crammed with statistics and with an array +of figures and superlatives enough to daze one, given to the guests +of the Palace Hotel; but those who are in that happy category scarcely +need the information, and those who are not could not derive any idea +of the building from the repetition of the ciphers which are to be +found in the guide-book. The drawing on the outside affords the best +notion of the size, but only actual purview can enable one to judge +of the excellent arrangements, the service, the table. For once the +American idol "Immensity" is not overlaid. "'Tis blinding bright--'tis +blazing white! O Vulcan! what a glow!" Electric lights flooding the +court with brightness beyond description. And what a court! Sweetness +and light indeed! In the great quadrangle, 144 feet by 84, there are +fountains playing, groups of statuary, and exotic plants, and, tier +after tier, rise the pillared terraces outside the seven storeys of +which the main building consists, painted a lustrous white, shining +like purest Parian. There are 755 rooms, abounding in conveniences, +and comfortably luxurious. Each is provided with high-pressure hot and +cold water, and there is an elaborate system of ventilation, alarms, +conductors, pneumatic tubes, telephones, and "annunciators" for fire, +letters, servants, &c. The beds are excellent; the furniture admirable; +and this vast structure, 120 feet high, 275 feet broad, and 350 feet +deep, is not only fire, but--listen--"earthquake proof"; so says the +bill of fare, and so says ex-Senator W. Sharon, the proprietor. I have +not the least desire to test the truth of the averment, but if I must +be in a hotel when an earthquake visits the city in which I am, let me +be in the Palace, San Francisco. A man may live here in the enjoyment +of a pretty continuous series of meals and one of the best bedrooms +for four dollars a day, and there is a lower tariff of bed and board at +three dollars a day. + +_June 8th._--Our first day was rendered exceedingly pleasant by the +kindness of General McDowell. The weather did its very best to prevent +our enjoying it, and was signally defeated. San Francisco is perhaps +the windiest city in the world, and at this time of year there is +almost always a storm in the harbour, and a steady, powerful, and +somewhat chilly blast, setting in a little before noon, and lasting +throughout the day until nearly sundown, up the streets. The General's +aide-de-camps came over early to the hotel, in full uniform, in honour +of Major-General Green, but General McDowell appeared in mufti, which +eased us down a little. A powerful steamer, the "_General Macpherson_," +was prepared for the party, which was swollen by a considerable number +of gentlemen invited by our host to meet the Duke, and the gentlemen +from Topeka, who were included in the invitation. The excursion +afforded a favourable opportunity of inspecting the city defences. +From Alcatraz Fort, Point and Presidio Island batteries, which would +not be considered very formidable as far as armament is concerned, +although their position affords great advantages for torpedo defence, +salutes were fired in honour of Sir Henry Green. But in the case of +some of us the sight was marred by the rising sea, which increased to +an inconvenient height as the steamer reached the Seal Rocks, close to +the entrance to the bay. Of the seals I shall give an account farther +on. They did not seem to mind the steamer very much until she blew her +whistle, when many of them splashed into the sea. At the termination of +the trip, which lasted some four hours, General McDowell entertained +the party at his official quarters, which are beautifully situated on +a bluff overhanging the water of the bay. + +_June 9th._--We spent, in some respects, an abortive and deceitful +day; not, indeed, that there was anything disappointing about our +entertainment at Belmont, under the auspices of ex-Senator Sharon; +but that we started full of enterprise, and intent upon inspecting the +great works of the Spring Valley Reservoir, and of making an excursion +through what was described as a very beautiful county whence is +brought the water supply of the great city in which we were sojourning. +However, though we were baulked in the object of our expedition, the +day passed, and not in the least degree unpleasantly, and instead of +going to the Lakes we drove about the neighbourhood of Belmont, and +visited several country seats. + +No one who visits San Francisco should omit taking an early opportunity +of going to Palo-Alto to inspect the stock of General Stanford's +thorough-breds, and the breeding establishment, which as a sample of +perfect order and management cannot be surpassed. I cannot answer for +the figures, but I was informed that the owner spends 25,000_l._ a year +upon the maintenance of his stud and stables, and that he has not as +yet sold a colt or filly, or parted with a single animal; sires, mares, +and young brood now amounting to about 700 head. They are beautifully +housed in detached stables fitted up with every convenience that a +horse of the highest pedigree and most luxurious taste can desire. +I was particularly struck with the perfect silence which prevailed +throughout the stables. No shouts to "stand over there," and none of +that "----" (groom's expletive) which is so common in our country. +And partly owing perhaps to that mode of treatment, and to gentleness +in handling, all the horses without exception seemed tractable and +sweet-tempered. High-bred stallions stood out in the open for our +inspection, and allowed themselves to be rubbed and felt without even +laying down their ears or raising a hind-leg from the ground. In reply +to a question respecting a remarkably beautiful animal, which seemed to +have a little more fire in him, the head groom said "You may walk under +his belly if you like," and then and there he told one of the grooms +to do so, which the man did, without attracting any unusual degree of +attention from the animal. Outside one of the large blocks of stables +there is a kind of testing arena, in which we were told it was the +pleasure of General Stanford, when he was at home, to sit watching the +performance of his young horses. It is an ellipse, like a large circus, +bordered with a hoarding, and in the centre there is a raised stage for +the visitors, on which are revolving chairs. The riding-master, with an +attendant, performing the functions of the late Mr. Widdicombe, sets +the animal in motion, checking him when he breaks into a gallop. The +speed at which the animal trots the ellipse is known by the time marked +on a chronometer, and the fact is recorded for the information of the +inspectors, who can turn round their chairs and follow the action of +the horse as it trots round the ring. + +The district of the State in which Palo-Alto is situated boasts of +several residences of the Californian millionaires. One house which +we visited, I think belonging to Mr. Flood, furnished the most ornate +and beautiful examples of woodwork that were ever seen by any of the +party. The house, which was as large as a good-sized English country +mansion, is constructed of timber of the finest quality, beautifully +worked, painted and varnished; and with moderate care a mansion of this +kind will last, in this climate, a couple of hundred years, which to +the American mind is an eternity. There were artists from New York, +and the staff of an upholsterer and decorator of great renown from the +Empire City were still busily engaged in the place as we went through +the rooms. The magnificent halls, reception-rooms, billiard-rooms, +library, bedrooms, all fitted up with extraordinary luxuriousness, +but in a somewhat florid taste, were of wood, the doors of many of +the apartments arresting attention by their extraordinary beauty and +finish. The ceilings decorated in fresco by Italian artists, and bright +windows filled with stained glass gave an appearance of light and +grace to the whole residence. The kitchen arrangements were marvels +of ingenuity, and one envied the butler who would have such a pantry +as that which was displayed for our inspection. Some of the pictures +which were ready to be placed on the walls were remarkable, however, +only for the richness of their frames; and, indeed, we heard that +the excellent proprietor was not a man of very cultivated taste; a +child of fortune, in the prime of life and of money-making, spending +a portion of his enormous wealth with an easy hand, but destitute of +what is called book-learning, and leaving to some future generation the +cultivation of the graces and the acquirement of accomplishments which +the circumstances of his early life had denied him to effect. + +It had been arranged that we should return to San Francisco to dinner, +but Senator Sharon had in his secret heart resolved that we should do +nothing of the kind, or at least, that if we did so, it should only be +after we had partaken of such a feast at Belmont as would very much +indispose us to test the capabilities of the _chef_ of the Palace +Hotel. From Palo-Alto accordingly we were driven to the charming +country house, some miles away, of the ex-senator of Oregon, and we +were regaled there, after some delay, at a very elaborate _déjeûner_, +sent out from San Francisco. It was nigh 8 o'clock ere we got back +to the city; and the night ended by what might well be called "an +excursion" to the Baldwin Theatre, which was at the time the most +attractive of the places of entertainment of that sort open in the +city. As some of us were walking back, after the play was over, with +an American friend, talking of the "hoodlums," famous rowdies, who, we +were assured, had been of late days utterly broken up by the vigilance +of the police, our attention was attracted to a number of lads smoking +at the corner of the street. Our friend said "Hoodlums broken up! There +they are--don't you believe it. That's a lot of them, and if you were +alone you might find out very unpleasantly that there are plenty of +them." + +The San Francisco journalists possess astonishing powers of +imagination. I rubbed my eyes when I read that I had described "with +eloquence the similarity between a marsh at San Bruno and a patch +of jungle in the north-west of Scinde, where I had the felicity +of spending three weeks with General Green while the natives were +arranging a plan to capture the party and cut our throats." I never +was in the north-west of Scinde in my life, and, although I had the +pleasure of passing a longer time in his company in the United States, +and of being on the same plateau before Sebastopol when he was there, +for a still longer period, many years before, I never spent three +weeks there with General Green. The Duke was described as "professing, +but showing, little enthusiasm." However, these matters are of very +slight interest or importance; only one wonders how many of the readers +of this sort of literary work believe in it. One of our party has, +according to a local paper, become a clergyman, and now rejoices in the +style and title of "the Bishop," by which he is universally addressed +by the party. + +While in the train, on our way to Belmont, I had the pleasure of +being introduced to a gentleman who, although a lawyer in very large +practice, is General of the State Volunteers; and in the course of +conversation, I heard that he had papers containing the statement of +a gentleman who had visited, and which convinced him that the real +Roger Tichborne was living not very far from San Francisco. General +Barnes, whose name and character stand high in the city of the Golden +Gate, and whom I found to be a gentleman of great intelligence, seemed +perfectly satisfied by the story told by this new "claimant"; but what +he mentioned to me did not at all tend to create in my mind any notion +that he was not an impostor, and especially were my doubts confirmed by +the quotations which General Barnes made from some of the narrative, in +which there was a ridiculous jumble of French and English, in order to +justify, apparently, the stress placed by the "claimant" in his story +on that part of his life which was passed in France. He spoke of his +uncle as "mon oncle," and of Thursday as "Jeudi," and so on. However, +General Barnes appeared to be so impressed by the truthfulness of the +man's bearing, and by the full details he gave him at an audience +in which he supplied the facts for the consecutive narrative which +I was promised, that I expressed a desire to read it. General Barnes +subsequently sent me a long written paper containing the heads of the +claimant's story, a perusal of which strengthened the conviction I +had previously entertained. I only mention this circumstance because +there was a report spread throughout the Press, by the agency of one +of the great telegraphic associations which furnish the American +public with intelligence, that the Duke of Sutherland and myself +had interviewed the real Roger Tichborne at San Francisco, and had +satisfied ourselves that he was the man; and innumerable "headings" +were invented for this supposed interview, of which I was soon made +aware on my return westward in every newspaper that I read. I promptly +denied the statement that the Duke or myself had seen the new claimant, +and although the denial appeared in print I was exasperated day after +day by being asked questions afterwards with regard to this supposed +conversation with Tichborne at San Francisco, and by inquiries as to +my real impression; so it would appear that no one had seen or paid +any attention to the refutation of the story which had brought down +on my devoted head communications from friends of other Tichbornes, +of whom there are several living, some in poverty and others in +comparative affluence, in various cities and districts of the United +States. I had further the mortification of seeing it stated in print +that I had used disparaging words in alluding to the credulity of +General Barnes, which was an entirely baseless fabrication. With all +the extraordinary keenness of the American mind generally, there is +associated with it a considerable amount of the Anglo-Saxon quality +which is termed "gullibility," and the land swarms with impostors who +make a living out of the easy faith of the population. I do not speak +merely of spiritualists, quacks, and professors of peculiar religions +or medical dogmas, nor of the preachers of eccentric forms of faith or +unbelief, but of the mass of persons who contrive to get an existence +by representing that they are "someone else." Although their tricks +are well known, the trade still flourishes. They are always the "sons +of peers," who have got into disgrace with their families, but who +will eventually be owners of castles of historic fame and of enormous +estates; "distinguished soldiers"; "Maids of Honour to the Queen," +who for some unknown reasons are living in small out-of-the-way +villages in the West; or political conspirators who have played a great +part on some distinguished stage and have saved themselves from the +consequences of defeated enterprize by taking refuge in the States. +And then there are hordes of persons who are known by the title of +"confidence men," who travel about on the trains or in the steamers, +looking out for victims, or lounging about the bars and saloons, +waiting for their prey in the shape of some facile and easy-eared +stranger, who in consideration of their merits and distress shall give +them temporary assistance. Sometimes, doubtless, there are cases of +very real suffering, sorrow, and poverty, to which exile in the United +States affords a melancholy refuge. I was obliged to hear in one great +city of a gallant soldier who, reduced to poverty by no fault of his +own, had quitted England and given up the society of his friends, +and lived in a small suburb of a town on the coast of the Pacific, +his secret known only to one or two officials, shunning all contact +with his countrymen and evading as far as possible all inquiries of +his friends. In San Francisco, where there is a poor-house open to +strangers and to native-born Americans alike, there are, I am told, to +be met with extraordinary exemplifications of the "downs" of fortune. +Adventurous and daring spirits, and pioneers of civilisation, at one +time probably possessed of wealth which was wasted in dissipation, +or lost in unfortunate speculations, are there, talking of the days +that are gone, in all languages of the world, and awaiting their end; +while others who started with them in the same race are building their +palaces or revelling in the enjoyment of wealth, compared to which our +greatest fortunes are, if figures can be trusted, a mere bagatelle. How +rapidly some of these fortunes can be made was illustrated by numerous +stories connected with some of the richest men in California. I was +told by an eminent tradesman of San Francisco that one day a miner came +into his establishment to buy a watch, which he said must be cheap +and good, for he wanted something he could trust to in the matter of +time, as he was going off with a party on an exploring expedition +after gold. This was in the early time of the great "booms" in the +West. He selected a watch, for which he paid $40, and departed. The +following day he appeared in the shop and asked to see the proprietor, +and then, producing the watch, he said he would like to have $30 for +it, as he had lost all his money in a "spree" the night before and +must have something to start with. The jeweller said, "Well, I will +return you what you gave me for the watch, as it has suffered no harm, +and you shall have your $40 back again." The man went away exceedingly +rejoiced, and the incident was forgotten. Some eighteen months +afterwards a man came to the establishment, and looking at rings, gold +chains, and jewellery of the most costly character, and asking for the +best of everything that they had got, gave orders which occasioned the +attendant to have some doubts as to his sanity, or certainly as to the +means he had of paying the amount, which was rapidly running up to tens +of thousands of dollars. So he sought out his principal. The strange +customer said, "I suppose you don't know me?" which was admitted to +be the case. He went on buying all the same, making the remark, "You +need not be uneasy about the money, for So-and-so (the bankers) will +tell you I am all right, and when you send the things home you shall +be paid. I am Joe Smith, from whom some time ago you took a watch he +bought from you when he came to your store, and gave him the full value +for it when he was in want of money," and so departed, having shown his +gratitude by buying 6000_l._ worth of jewellery. This worthy miner is +now one of the wealthy pillars of the State. + +The Chinese quarter of San Francisco has been described, I will not say +_ad nauseam_, but as often as any book has been written which contains +an account of a visit to the city of the Golden Gate. Of course we +went there, and saw all that was to be seen under the best possible +auspices, for Mr. Bee, whom I have already mentioned, was our guide +and companion, assisted by an exceedingly intelligent officer of the +police force; and on the occasion of our second visit, when we went to +the theatre, we had the advantage of being under the protection of the +gentleman who represents law and order, on behalf of the municipality, +in connection with the Chinese population and the arrangements for +theatrical performances. + +The inspection of the dreadful den in which the opium-smokers were to +be seen suggested to my mind a train of thought in connection with the +traffic which I would not willingly have communicated to my American +friends. It will seem incredible some day to the awakened conscience +of the nation that we should have ever sanctioned such a frightful +crime as the opium traffic. "It only poisons about two millions of +people," is the excuse, "and brings in one-sixth of the whole revenue +of India." If ever it were justifiable to utter the exclamation "Perish +India!" it would be, I believe, in regard to that disgraceful source of +revenue, and the necessity that is imposed upon us, as it is alleged, +to raise it, in order to maintain the government of our Indian empire. +Here in San Francisco the State has nothing to do with the sale of the +poison, and it is very questionable whether the police regulations +should not be applied to it, just as they are to persons who have +tried to commit suicide, or to the inebriates in public-houses, or to +places where intemperance is carried on to an extent injurious to the +public peace. Death is the inevitable result of continued indulgence +in opium-smoking, although it is true that in some cases the victim +lingers on a few years, utterly indifferent to all the business of life +except the one--the means of supplying himself with his only source +of enjoyment. I was in one of the shops where they sell the drug, and +was much struck by the cadaverous, sunken faces of the unfortunate +customers, with bright dreamy eyes, trembling limbs, and wasted bodies, +who came in to buy it. It is cheap enough, in all conscience, as a very +small quantity suffices to produce what is called "the desired effect"; +but for its bulk it is exceedingly dear, and indulgence in it must +consume a considerable amount of the earnings of the best-paid artisans +when they are no longer able to earn sufficient to keep them with a +full supply. "Then," as our informant says, "they will commit any crime +to get it." + +The general impression made upon me by the appearance of the Chinese +population was most favourable. I do not now speak of what one might +see in going through the haunts where the police regulations assign +exclusive possession to certain classes of the population, which, sooth +to say, seemed numerous enough; I refer to the business quarters, and +to the crowds of cleanly, intelligent, well-behaved people of both +sexes in the streets. General McDowell, and many other persons, for +whose opinion the greatest respect must be entertained, look with +apprehension on the effect of the Chinese immigration, and have, +indeed, declared that it will destroy the Union if it be not checked; +and these apprehensions are based upon the possibility that in time +millions on millions of the swarming population of China will inundate +the United States, gradually overrun town after town, usurping all +the fields of labour, and beating down the white man to the greatest +misery by competition in every branch of trade, industry, and labour. +This party has successfully, I believe, impressed its views upon a +considerable number of senators and representatives in the Eastern +States, who can exercise pressure on the Supreme Government; and +the treaty recently signed between the Republic and China contains +provisions which enable the authorities at the western seaports to +exercise considerable control over the current of emigration. But, on +the other hand, it is alleged that the fears which are expressed of +a rapidly increasing exodus of Chinese from China, and an anabasis +into the United States, are purely imaginary--in fact, unreal and +pretentious. The pro-Chinese party allege that the emigration comes +from only one port in one province, and that you may go all over the +West, and ask any Chinaman or Chinawoman where he or she comes from, +and you are met with the invariable answer, from the one port. The +friends of the Chinese--arguing, moreover, that the State at large +is benefited enormously by the accession to its resources from the +Celestial Empire, and that the labour was attacked, not because it +was cheap, but because it was good; that it is now indispensable, for +without Chinamen and Chinawomen it would be almost impossible to carry +on the ordinary life of these cities--allege that the agitation which +has been so violent in San Francisco is mainly encouraged by those +who want to secure the Irish vote. Colonel Bee represents these views +very strongly. He argues that Canton, not larger than the State of +New Hampshire, is the sole source of emigration. He insists on it that +there are no more than 100,000 Chinese in the whole of the Union, and +that for the last ten years the emigrants have not sufficed to fill +the places of those who had gone home with money, never intending to +return, or who had died. He maintains, indeed, that the Chinese are +decreasing rather than otherwise; and with all the power of figures, +which he has at his fingers' ends as Consul, demonstrates that a very +large proportion of the Chinese who are entered as arriving at San +Francisco and other parts are the same men and women as those who came +some years previously and went back to their native country, returning +to gain more dollars. + +The principal enemies of the Chinese are the Irish, who, having +monopolised the whole of the work of bricklayers, plasterers, carters, +porters, and general labourers until their arrival, have been forced +to reduce their rates of labour steadily by the competition of the +Chinaman. + +The part of the population of San Francisco denominated the Sand lot, +and especially those connected with the political associations of the +city, do not by any means share Colonel Bee's views; but the agitation +is dying out, and the meetings, which were of weekly occurrence, to +excite the people against the Mongolians have decreased in number, +importance, and interest. The directors of public companies, and +the contractors for public works, are all in favour of the Chinese +workman, who is sober, industrious, and orderly; and although the trade +combinations among them are exceedingly subtle, and their powers of +association for trade purposes remarkable, being moreover the most +ancient in the world, the Chinese in the Western States have not as +yet taken to indulge in the luxury of strikes. As domestic servants, +nurses, and attendants on children, they appear to be affectionate +and careful; and nothing could be better than the service of the hotel +in which we were lodged, the great portion of which was carried on by +Chinamen and women. + +_June 10th._--In the spacious courtyard of the Palace Hotel, at +7 o'clock this morning, there might have been observed three +well-appointed waggons (as Americans call the vehicle more +appropriately termed "spider" at the Cape), each with two horses +of race, fast trotters, panting for a spin through the city and the +Park out to the shores of the Pacific. The Duke and Sir H. Green and +Mr. Stephen were driven by Mr. Howard. Mr. Wright was "personally +conducted" by Mr. ----, and I was put behind a pair of as handsome +chestnuts as could well be seen anywhere, of which the owner and +driver (General Barnes) was very reasonably proud. The streets of +San Francisco, like those of most of the American cities we have +visited, are atrociously paved; the torture of driving over boulders +is aggravated by the sharp ribs of the tram ways, so that it is not +pleasant, if, indeed, it be possible, to drive rapidly till the limit +of municipal incompetence or fraud be passed. But once out on the +suburbs the chestnuts were invited to step it, and were bowling along +at a good fourteen miles an hour on our way to the Park, over as good +a road as horse or man ever felt under hoof or foot. The Park not long +ago was a waste of sand, it is now swarded and planted with shrubs, and +luxuriant with flowers. Notices that it was unlawful to do more than +ten miles an hour were posted up, but the General did not pay strict +attention to them till he came near shady places, where experience +warned him that policemen might be lying privily in ambush. The pace +was quickened till the waggon seemed to fly through the air rather +than move over the ground. It was the perfection of travelling on +wheels--almost as buoyant as a headlong gallop. The waggon weighed but +180 lb., the powerful animals "scarcely felt it more than their tails." +I had a turn at the reins by "kind permission" of the General. The art +of driving trotters needs practice. You must keep a strong, steady +pull on the head, or they "break." Very soon I had the satisfaction +of making the chestnuts break the law with a vengeance, and of hearing +the General say, "We are just within the three minutes! not ten seconds +inside it!"--that is, of trotting at the rate of just twenty miles an +hour. Up hill and down hill, and along the flat out of the Park and +over the smooth road, and in half an hour the Pacific was in sight, and +the murmurs of the surf rose above the rhythm of the regular beat of +the eight hoofs in front of us! Cliff House was in view. Seal Rocks, +in their setting of foam, lay before us, and in forty minutes from the +time we left the hotel, despite policemen, miles of bad pavements, and +tramways, we drew up at the steps of Cliff House, nine miles from San +Francisco, and the trotters had not turned a hair. From the verandah +at the sea front of the hotel, we enjoyed for half an hour a spectacle +which is, as far as I know, unique. At the distance of 500 or 600 yards +from the beach at our feet there is a group of four very rugged rocks, +with serrated edges and tops, the sides broken here and there into +ledges and small platforms. They are too small to be called islands, +the largest being, as it seemed, not 100 yards wide. The slopes are +not, I think, so steep as they looked on the land side. On the two +largest of these rocks there were herds of sea-lions, so close that we +could see, through very poor opera-glasses, with the greatest ease, +their eyes, teeth, and whiskers, as they reposed or played with each +other. Some had clambered to the highest ledges, escalading the sides +by a series of painful-looking struggles with their flappers; others +were fast asleep in cosy nooks; some were tossing their heads about and +making believe to bite each other in sport; the younger ones were bent +on teasing their fathers and mothers by uncouth gambols. As they played +or moved they uttered cries between a bark and a roar; now and then the +noise was like that of a pack of hounds in full cry, and the effect of +the strange sound mingling with the tumult of the surf and the beat of +the waves was most singular and "eldrich." Those fresh from the sea +were shining black, but became lighter as they dried. The older ones +were not darker than cinnamon bears or unwashed sheep. As many of those +on the rocks had not long left the water the general effect of the +herd put one in mind of a gathering of enormous slugs on cabbages--not +a poetic simile, but a just one, I think. Occasionally a sea-lion, +hungry or bored by his companions, threw himself with a splash into the +wave, and it was interesting to watch the rapidity and actual grace of +his movements in the sea compared with his laborious efforts on the +land. One could see them quite clearly through the body of the heavy +billows; occasionally a bold one would glide close on shore and fish +in the edge of the surf, raising his head and shoulders clear above +the surface, and then diving out of sight. They were cruising about +in every direction. You remember the sea-lion at the Zoo, of which the +French attendant was so fond? Well, the creatures below and before us +were most of them double the size of that fellow, and several exceeded +the largest ox in size. The monsters are quite well known; one is named +Ben Butler, "because he is such a great beast." They were formerly +protected by law, but some one thought they killed too many fish, and +the law was repealed. They are safe all the same, for there is a law +against the discharge of firearms within 300 yards of an inhabited +dwelling; Cliff House throws its ægis over the sea-lions in that wise; +but the quantity of fish which must be devoured by these mountainous +phocæ (an they be so) daily would maintain a decently-sized city. The +hide furnishes the "sealskin" used to cover trunks, and the body yields +oil fat, and the tusks are close, white, and hard. These sea-lions +breed far away up north, and come with their young regularly every +year to the same resorts; but incessant war is waged upon them by the +sealers and whalers, so that the chances are against the beast where he +is not protected by law, and their numbers do not increase. Altogether, +the spectacle was one never to be forgotten. A hotel, with oysters +awaiting us for a forebreakfast refection in the background, waggons +from Michigan, horses from Kentucky, all the apparatus of civilised +life close at hand, the Pacific and its strange wild denizens at our +feet! "Let us turn in and have an oyster." "What! oysters in June?" +"Yes, and good ones too." In this favoured land oysters are in season +all the year round. There are no oysters found on the coast, I am told, +and they will not breed. They are brought all the way from the Atlantic +coast when they are mere oysterlets, and they are laid down in the +Pacific, where they grow fat and large, but are not "crossed in love," +and therefore are fit to be eaten from January to January. They are +about the size of a spring chicken, and need some courage on the part +of an assailant who desires to dispose of them as he would a native. + +This was our last day in the city of the Golden Gate, and the +photographers were masters of the situation; and there was much +_débris_ of sight-seeing to sweep up--visits to be made, shops to be +inspected, among which I must mention specially the Diamond Palace +of Colonel Andrews, one of the handsomest jeweller's "stores" in +the world, though it is not as large as the establishments of the +principal firms in London, Paris, Vienna, or as Tiffany's in New +York. The distinctive feature of the interior is the decoration of the +paintings of fair women, on the ceiling and the walls above the cases, +by necklaces, diadems, zones, and other feminine ornaments of real +diamonds, emeralds, rubies, and pearls. The pictures are the work of +an Italian artist of merit, and the general effect is very striking; +but I doubt whether it is a good way of inducing people to buy the +articles which bedeck the ideal beauties. At Bradley and Rulofson's +we saw photographs of many of our friends, and had one more proof of +the smallness of the world. Every one we knew seemed to have visited +San Francisco. There we all submitted to inevitable fate, and left our +negatives behind us, but the Duke was captured by a rival photographic +institution, and had a sitting all to himself. + +The aspect of a crowd in a large American city differs from that of +the passers-by in the street of an English town, most of all in the +appearance of such a large proportion of coloured people. Here it may +be said, however, that they are colourless, as the prevailing hue of +the foreign population is that of the Chinaman. In Canada the number +of negroes, or of persons of negro descent, of varying gradations of +colour, is remarkable, considering the circumstances, but they probably +may be accounted for by the emigration in the olden times of those +who were escaping from slavery, or who went with their masters and +employers into the Dominion. In the cities on the Lakes I was very +much struck by the persons of undoubted African descent who are to +be met with in the streets in great numbers; and in Chicago there is +a quarter nearly exclusively occupied by them--honest, industrious, +hard-working people seemingly, given to stand about at the street +corners, however, a good deal on Sundays, and cultivating a bright +attire, especially on the part of the ladies, whose bonnets and +shawls were things to wonder at. There are loafers amongst them, as +there are amongst their betters; but, taking them all in all, in the +Northern, Western, and Atlantic States, they are a decidedly useful +element in the population, easing the burden of labour to the white +man, and following many occupations, such as those of waiters, barbers, +bricklayers, and labourers in the less skilled sort of work, for which +it would be difficult to find American substitutes. One peculiarity, +which may be accounted for by some wiser person than myself, seems to +be their recklessness as to what they put on their heads. Whether it +is merely a compliance with the custom of the white man, which impels +them to cover the highly effective protection against sun and cold +which Nature has given them, or not; or whether it is that the canons +of taste in such matters have not yet settled down to those accepted +by people in civilised life in the Western world, the male negro has +the most extraordinary indifference as to the quality and shape of the +thing which he calls a hat or cap, and it would not be easy to find out +of the gutters of some Irish country town anything more dilapidated, +battered, and utterly incoherent than some of the hats which one may +see on the heads of people of colour, especially down South. Whatever +other virtues they may have, neatness is not amongst them; for, with +all their affectation of finery, their clothes are generally ill-kept, +their houses are unkempt, and, where they are cultivators of the soil, +the operations are performed in a slovenly manner. The traditions of +the old plantation have descended upon them, and influence them. + +On my way from Messrs. Donahue and Kelly, the bankers in Montgomery +Street--I believe the former of these gentlemen has had the +privilege of giving his name to steamers and cities, leastways +railway stations--I saw a party of sailors belonging to the United +States steamer "_Rodgers_," now about to proceed in search of the +"_Jeannette_," and I was much struck by their resemblance to our own +bluejackets in general "cut of the jib," dress, face, and figure. +They were in charge of a smart-looking officer, and had been paying a +farewell visit to the fruit and vegetable markets--one of the sights of +the city. They were in high good-humour, laughing and chatting loudly, +more than is the wont of Americans, and I could not but contrast +their fine physique with that of the soldiers we had seen at Sir Henry +Green's parade when General McDowell took us round the harbour. The +detachment at the Fort, consisting of infantry and artillerymen, and +squads of different regiments, had some weedy veterans in the ranks, +who had lost their setting up and did not look fit for much work; but +the sailors, probably a picked lot, were good all round. + +_À propos_ of Messrs. Donahue and Kelly, the number of wealthy +men in San Francisco of Irish origin or nationality is remarkable. +Millionaires with names of Milesian prefixes and terminations are +phenomenal. We had intended to return to the East Coast by way of Utah, +and to stay a day or two at Salt Lake City, but the railroad company +did not consider it expedient to give the party the facilities which +had been accorded in every other instance by the American authorities +to the Duke and his friends. To have gone round Salt Lake City would +have cost a couple of hundred pounds more for haulage, and we were +much more interested in seeing Leadville and Denver than the City of +the Mormons; the game was not thought to be worth the candle, and +it was resolved that we would go back as we came, in charge of the +representatives of the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fé Railroad Company. +It was only one item more in the long list of things we ought to have +seen if we could, and I can safely say that we had a large share of the +common experience of travellers in regard to the relations between the +possible and the impossible in the course of a journey in a strange +land, where there are for ever cropping up representations that "you +really ought not to leave without seeing" so and so. The evening of our +last day was passed in the society of General McDowell, Mr. Morgan, +the English Consul, Colonel Bee, and others, who had done so much to +make the visit to San Francisco all that could be desired, and whose +courtesy and kindness will ever be remembered by every one of us most +gratefully. Like Sir Charles Coldstream, we "had seen everything, +done everything," but, unlike him, had found there was plenty in it. +The street railway--most ingenious and successful, invaluable in a +hilly city like Lisbon--the Chinese Theatre, the Joss houses--shops, +eating-houses, opium dens of the Chinese quarter, the clubs, the +principal buildings, the streets, the shops, the markets, the harbour, +the suburbs, and country round about--all had been inspected, and +yet each day we were told that we were doing positive injustice to +ourselves and to the objects which were perforce neglected. In the +morning there was a levée in the hotel to bid the Duke good-bye and +see the party start on their return journey. At the very last moment a +gentleman came forward with a proposal to take us to the North Pole by +balloon, but there was not time to consider it in all its bearings and +the offer was declined with thanks. We started at 10 A.M., and the Duke +was attended to the boat and to the station across the water by a large +body of San Franciscans, who took leave ere the train started. The +gentlemen who were with us on the journey westwards attended the Duke +on his way towards the Eastern States. All day we travelled through +California--"the hot furnace"--which at first, however, proved to be +only very warm, and the coloured servants had constant supplies of iced +compounds to be drunk for the solace of the homeward bound, and had +laid in a stock of San Franciscan luxuries to soothe the way. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +CALIFORNIA TO COLORADO. + + Los Angeles--Mud-geysers--"Billy the Kid"--General + Fremont--Manitou, the Garden of the Gods--Desperadoes--Bob + Ingersoll--Denver City--Leadville--Grand Cañon. + + +_June 12th._--The train stopped at Los Angeles at six in the morning, +and, drawing up my window-blind, the first person I saw on the platform +was our good friend Colonel Baker, who had come to meet us, intent +on the good offices which he could render during our stay. These were +exhibited in the form of a beautiful bouquet for Lady Green, baskets +of limes and oranges, and great bunches of grapes. In this happy valley +there are cares as in the rest of the world. The Colonel told us he was +in the midst of a great litigation affecting his claim to a large tract +of land in which there are said to exist the richest tin-mines in the +American Continent. Yet why should he care about his tin-mine? There +were rolling acres rich with corn and fruit, and there were flocks and +herds and vineyards, and a charming home of his own. Nevertheless, if +the want of that tin-mine made him at all unhappy, I am sure those who +were indebted to him, as we were, for so many kindnesses, will wish his +claim to be triumphantly asserted, and long possession of all that is +to follow. + +I dreaded the passage of the Desert to Yuma; and indeed the heat was +intense. No wonder that with the thermometer ranging from 100° to 104°, +all the blinds in the car were pulled down, and we sprawled listlessly +on the cushions. Our excellent attendants put forth all the resources +of art in the shape of ice and preparations of limes and cocktails; +but the temperature would not be baffled. We could just read, and were +aware that we were living, and some of us had strength enough now and +then to execute forays against flies with napkins to drive them out +of the carriages. How could people live out in the open, and work in +the mines, or pursue any out-of-door employment in such torrid heat? +Nevertheless, there was a marked distinction between it and the heat to +be endured with the mercury at an equal height in India. + +The speed of the train was very respectable--somewhat over twenty miles +an hour--and at that rate we ran from San Gorgonio and Banning on to +Cabazon, through a flat plain, dry and burnt up, very like the desert +around Suez, and fringed, like it, with rocky and rugged hills, save +that there was a great growth of Spanish bayonets and cactuses of all +kinds among the stones and sand, and that snow was to be seen on all +the hill-tops in the distance. For 107 miles there was no water to +be met with going along this plain; but the mirage, of which I have +spoken in the account of our journey to San Francisco, was frequent +and beautiful; and again I was fascinated by the sight of lovely lakes +embowered in trees, with stately cities on their shores, changing and +shifting and melting away, only again to assume apparent substance to +cheat the senses. + +Once the train stopped to allow the passengers to visit the +mud-geysers, which were not more than 150 yards on the left of the +line, and with commendable curiosity most of us got out and walked +over the baked earth to the spot. There was no mark whatever of smoke +or vapour to indicate the place; and it was almost startling to come +suddenly upon a kind of pond of semi-liquid mud, fifty or sixty feet +in diameter, on which huge bubbles, varying in size from an orange to +a hogshead, were continually forming and bursting. There was a faint +sulphurous smell, and the ground around the liquefied portion of the +surface, where the bubbles were breaking, was hot and cracked. The +conductor said that all attempts to reach the bottom of the holes +through which the bubbles arose had failed. Two of these geysers +were in active operation, and the plain away to the left of the rail +was said to contain a great number of them. After all it was very +unsatisfactory to see this ebullition going on without being able to +account for it; and, generally, I think we thought less of each other +and of our information after visiting them, and finding out that not +one of us had any theory on the subject which would bear either fire or +water. + +I do not think I ever saw a sunset more beautiful than that which +marked the close of this day--certainly not in India or South Africa, +nor on the prairie, for which they make claims of surpassing beauty in +the matter of sunsets. As it died out, I felt that "thing of beauty" +could not "be a joy for ever," for it was a combination of colour and +of form, including sky and mountain, that it would be impossible to see +again. + +The kindness of which we have had so many proofs, has followed, +accompanied, and preceded us all unremittingly and unweariedly. A +rough with some Bourbon on board mounted to-day the steps of the +car at a station, and insisted on seeing "this Duke." When he was +told that the object of his attention was engaged, he said, "This +is a land of liberty (as in his case it was), and he doesn't want a +bodyguard with him!" But the conductor sent him away about his business +without trouble. On the platform at Benson a few miners asked "the +Duke to come out and show himself." The people at the stations were +generally satisfied with a quiet peep; now and then an enthusiastic +Scotchman claimed a shake hands, which was always accorded to him. A +sleeper placed across the rails (accounted for by the officers on the +hypothesis that some loafer without a ticket had been turned off by the +conductor, and had put the sleeper in the way of the train to wreak +his vengeance--a thing which has occurred nearer home) was the only +substantial danger to which we were here exposed. + +The heat (June 13th) was intense. The thermometer rose to 105 at one +o'clock in the day, and it was little comfort to us to be told that at +Deming it had been up to 110 the day before. + +For some days we have been supping full of horrors, indeed +breakfasting and dining on them, for the papers contain accounts of +the extraordinary homicides all about this region. Tucson, Benson, +Wilcox--all these places were resounding with the exploits of "Billy +the Kid." Now at Tucson there is, I believe, a man whose name was once +amongst the very foremost in the United States. Who some twenty years +and more ago had not heard of General Fremont, "the Pathfinder," the +adventurous traveller, the energetic politician, the dashing soldier? +He had gone at the outbreak of the war to take up the chief command +in the west with all the pomp and circumstance of glorious war. I was +somewhat astonished to find that he was at Tucson, the governor of the +Territory, on a humble salary, apparently the world-forgetting and +the world-forgot, while "Billy-the-Kid" was perpetrating numberless +atrocities under his nose, and Mr. Pat Garrett was dressing up his +loins with his revolver-belt, and about to go forth with a chosen band +of citizens and seek the redoubtable William.[A] + +A person who has only seen settled States in Europe, or the Eastern +States of the North American Continent, cannot form any notion of a +territory which has become a centre of attraction to all the wild +adventurers and daring spirits which society, in the process of +formation, throws out as a sort of advanced guard. In Arizona, in +1870, according to the American Almanac, out of a total population +of 9658, 2729 could not write and 2690 could not read. Of the total +population, 2491 were foreign born, and 2753 were natives, the rest +being coloured or under ten years of age. In New Mexico, out of 91,000 +people, 48,000 over ten years of age could not read, and 51,000 whites +over ten years of age could not write. It may be inferred from such +figures what is the general condition of the labouring classes in these +States and Territories. The inhabitants of these States have doubled +in the last ten years. They are filling up at a rate inconceivably +great--so great, indeed, that American newspapers are fairly bewildered +and American statesmen appalled by the rush across the Rocky Mountains +and down the rivers, although as yet but a small proportion of the +immense stream of immigrants has flooded the outlying territories. "At +this rate," exclaims a Western editor, "the old monarchies of Europe +will soon be depopulated." When Mr. Lincoln, in 1861, addressed his +inaugural to the expectant States he expressed his confident belief +that there were children then born who would live to see the flag of +the Union floating over no less than 100,000,000 of human beings. The +recent census of the United States gives a return of 51,000,000 of +people, but the most eminent statisticians have arrived at the belief +that the progress and increase of the States will not be at the same +rapid rate as that which marked the history of the Republic since the +cessation of the great civil war. It may be fairly inferred, however, +that at the end of this century the population of the United States +will greatly exceed that of Russia, or that of any empire except +China and Great Britain, including Hindostan. The population, on +each period of ten years, has increased at an average of more than +30 per cent.; in fact, nearer 33 per cent., and the centre of it has +travelled westward at the rate of more than fifty miles every ten +years, till the centre of population is now eight miles west by south +from Cincinnati. In 1800 the Union extended over only 239,935 square +miles. Its flag now floats over 1,272,239 square miles of States and +over 1,800,000 square miles of Territory governed by the central power +at Washington. "We cannot think," exclaims a Republican writer, "that +the war of rebellion settled all our troubles and made us secure in +our Republic. This enormous growth of the practically unknown West +reveals to us the grave dangers that threaten our nation. We meet +there the tremendous influences of alien races and alien religions." +The Americans of New England and of the Eastern States do not feel +anxious on that score, because their institutions are thoroughly +founded, their character formed, and they trust to the great power of +accomplished facts to assimilate the alien elements and sustain the +fabric of the Republic. The bugbear of a great Chinese immigration +has ceased to practically influence Californian politics, and it may +be safely assumed that the bulk of the future immigrants from the +Celestial Empire will only come from the same sources as those which +have hitherto supplied the stream. No wonder, however, that thoughtful +Americans--and there are many who think of the future of their country +as something quite apart from dollars--are filled with grave anxieties +when they see such floods of purely foreign material, which will in +all probability exercise a preponderating influence over the politics +of the Great Republic, surging into the States. Particularly have the +home missionary clergy, as they are styled, been struck by the enormous +influence which this foreign immigration has exercised. According +to one authority, the Rev. Mr. Stimson, of Worcester, "it is not a +question of spreading any particular form of Christianity or of Church +government, but a momentous struggle of American institutions with +alien civilisations and religions for the control of the great Western +country. The problem is not a matter of cleaning door-yards, but of +saving a continent for freedom." The Chinese Question and the Indian +Question are, they think, as nothing compared with the Irish Question +and the German Question. "The Republic," we are told, "stands on a +foundation as broad as humanity itself," whatever that may mean, "but +its condition of existence is a universal regard for the interests of +all." Often during the course of the Duke of Sutherland's excursion +it was our good fortune to fall in with men of great political and +social knowledge. The future of the Republic is, in the mind of these +men, clouded with uncertainty and doubt. They are apprehensive of +some unknown danger. It may be corruption of political life leading +to want of faith in free institutions; it may be the rival energies +and the opposing interests which Washington foresaw as likely to array +the East against the West--the Atlantic States against the inland +States, and it is calculated by some sanguine people that before this +century is over there will be eighteen, or possibly twenty, States +admitted into the Union formed out of the Territories which are now +under the central Government at Washington. Upon such influences as +these alien immigration may be expected to act with prodigious power. +At a recent meeting in Springfield a clergyman gave as an illustration +of the absolute indifference of the foreign immigrants to Republican +institutions a conversation he had with a Norwegian minister in +Minneapolis. "There is nothing," said this gentleman, "in America which +we Norwegians regard as of value except your land and your money. We +do not want to learn English: we do not want to know the Americans +around us; we have certainly no notion of becoming Americans, but we +intend to remain as we are--Norwegians." The Mormons control Utah. They +boast that they will soon govern five of the most important territorial +regions beyond the Rockies. But if Utah becomes a State, as she hopes +to do, she will found a Mormon code of laws and institutions beyond the +power of the United States to control. New Mexico may be considered as +a Roman Catholic State under the control of an excellent archbishop. Of +course all prophecies may be falsified by events, but judging by the +eighty years which have elapsed of the present century, and from the +ratio of increase in that time in the United States, the most liberal +construction may be placed even upon the bounding estimates of American +politicians and statists. When we look to the Far West and see, for +instance, how Winnipeg has become the centre of a great network of +river navigation, 300 miles in one direction, 600 miles in another, +and that the Mackenzie River passes for 1200 miles through what is +declared to be the future wheat region of the world, we may easily +comprehend the anxiety with which the patriotic American is filled lest +the future of such a State should fall into hands antagonistic to the +principles in which his _beau idéal_ of government has been founded and +has prospered. + +_June 14._--At Lamy, a station named after the good archbishop of Santa +Fé, where we halted for a short time whilst the passengers of another +train were breakfasting, a citizen came up to me on the platform and +exclaimed, as if he were very much impressed by the news he was going +to give, "If you look in there, sir, you will see Bob Ingersoll at +breakfast!" I asked whether there was anything very remarkable about +the fact. "Well, sir," he said, "he is Colonel Ingersoll, of whom you +have heard. He is the most remarkable in-fidel in the United States, +and I really think he believes what he preaches. A good man to look at, +too, and, they say, first-rate in his family." I had a glance at the +believer in unbelief, and saw a very presentable-looking person, of +fine appearance and good features, busily engaged in making the most +of his time at one of the tables in the refreshment-room. He was the +observed of all observers, and appeared to like it; and I understood +from one of the crowd that he had just returned from inspecting some +mining ventures in which he was concerned; for, if he does not believe +in the world to come, he is credited with very strong faith in the +excellencies of the possession of wealth in the world that is. His +lectures are attended by crowded audiences, but, as an astute American +observed, "they won't come to much, for, after all, people who do +not believe anything can never get up a great enthusiasm. It is in +believing something that the populace has faith." + +Once more our eyes were rejoiced with the sight of the lovely plains +of Las Vegas, wide-spreading fields decked with flowers and dotted with +flocks, bordered with ranges of softly contoured mountains, the courses +of the water streams indicated by bright vegetation and by growth of +trees of many kinds. From Lamy (170 miles) there is a gradual rise to +Raton, which we reached at 6.30 in the evening. The appearance of the +region we traverse as the train approaches the Raton Pass presents +a strong contrast to the desolate country through which we have been +passing. From Raton the train was drawn by two engines in front and +shoved by one behind, and even then the pace was not very rapid, for +the ascent is very sharp. All the more could we enjoy a very glorious +sunset, as we slowly ascended the mountain. Then darkness came on +rapidly, and we slid down towards La Junta into the night, and were all +fast asleep long before we arrived there. In the very early morning, +on June 15th, some two hours after midnight, we halted for a time at +Pueblo. At 9 o'clock we had to leave our beloved Pullman and change the +cars, for we were to take a fresh point of departure, starting from +the Union Depôt upon the Denver and Rio Grande narrow-gauge railway +for Denver, 119 miles distant, and making an excursion on the way to +Manitou, to which we diverged from Colorado Springs: for to go within +reach of that famous resort and not to see it would have been a great +outrage on all the rules and regulations established for the observance +of travellers. Certes narrow-gauge railways need an apology. Their +_raison d'être_ is, at the best, that they are better than nothing. +"If you won't have us, you can have nothing else." And in such a +mountainous region as we were about to visit, the difficulties and +expense connected with a broad-gauge line would have been enormous, +if indeed it could be constructed at all. The narrow-gauge carriages, +with seats to match, with which we were made acquainted for the first +time, were of course much less commodious and comfortable than those +we had quitted, but far superior to those on the Indian lines of the +same gauge, and Indian engineers had been over to take a lesson from +the Americans for the use of their carriage-builders. Atchison, Topeka, +and Santa Fé Company and Denver and Rio Grande Company have been at +daggers drawn and pistols cocked--ay, and fired--and at battles waged, +in times gone by; and now our friends on the former line were, like +ourselves, the guests of the latter, which was represented by several +official gentlemen anxious to do the honours to the Duke. The scenery +becomes grander and wilder every mile as the special hurries on as +well as it can over the sinuous line, which is piercing a mountain +region savage and sterile, and climbing by the sides of ravines and +creeping upwards in rocky valleys with pine-clad hill-tops and frowning +cliffs above. The engineer who designed the line is a Scotchman named +McMurtrie--or at least of recent Scotch origin--and he seems to have a +special gift for such aspiring work, and a gradient-compelling genius +not to be baffled by altitudes. We were mounting towards the snows. +Range upon range of whitened summits and hoary ridges came in view, +all paying homage to the rugged crown of Pike's Peak, which can be +seen from points more than 140 miles away. The fleecy cloudland which +seemed to lie before us, as we looked away from Pueblo, was resolving +itself into savage alps. And in these passes, which the eye caught for +a moment, there might be El Dorados still undiscovered, for around us +were cities springing out of the desert. Here the enchanter's wand is +the explorer's pick, and no one could say where the precious ore might +not be awaiting its touch. We were coming to the Land of Promises. The +conversation of our new friends, among whom were some gentlemen of the +press, related mostly to mines, and one of them had, as we discovered, +a very certain investment at the disposal of the Duke, in the form of a +mining-claim, which was worth, at the lowest computation, twice as much +as he was willing to take for it. There was no reason to doubt his good +faith, but it was felt that it was a kind of fortune which ought not to +pass into the hands of strangers, and should be reserved for the people +of the country; and I am sure all of the party who had the pleasure of +the owner's acquaintance hope that he has "made his pile" out of it, +and has more than realised his expectations. + +Colorado Springs, forty-five miles from Pueblo, is nearly 6000 feet +above the level of the sea. The character of the line to it is best +described in the fact that the average grade per mile is 44·14, the +maximum curvature 6°. There are "no Springs" here, but the little town, +charmingly situated, is a halting-place much frequented in tourist-time +by travellers, and reputed to be healthful. There are some pleasant +houses visible from the station, at which we descended to take our +places in the carriages provided to take us to Manitou Springs, five +miles away. Mr. Palmer--if General, I beg his pardon--the President of +the Railroad, had important business to attend to, but he was so well +represented by Mr. Bell, the Vice-President, that no one regretted his +absence, and it cannot be said in his case _les absents ont toujours +tort_. He is reported to have made a very large fortune with much +ingenuity, and to have business talents which even in this country +excite admiration. Mr. Bell is an Irish gentleman, a member of the +medical profession, who has a delightful villa embowered in a garden +in the environs of Manitou, where the Duke and his friends found a +charming interior and an Irish-American welcome, and discovered that +strawberries and cream were almost as good in Colorado as in Covent +Garden. A quaint, odd place, Manitou--an American Martigny, with +Pike's Peak rising (14,300 feet above the sea) over it in the clear +sky, inspiring regret that we could not make the excursion to the +summit, which is rewarded, we were told, and I can believe, by one of +the grandest views in the world--the usual service of guides, horses, +and mules, and _calèches_--a naturalist's store with skins, minerals, +feathers, and stuffed "objects"--detached wooden houses and villas +in small plots of garden--a straggling street, and large hotels for +invalids. But there was the unusual feature of encampments here and +there by the roadside, and notices forbidding the pitching of tents +within certain limits which were explained by the fact that the high +reputation of the waters and air induces people to come from great +distances for the treatment of consumption, and diseases of throat and +lungs. Many of them find it cheaper to travel in horse waggons and +pitch their canvas dwellings when they wish to make a halt, than to +take up their quarters at hotels. Poor people! what pale, hectic cheeks +and wasted forms we saw; little groups picnicking by the sides of the +rivulets along the roads--each with a gnawing care--anxiety about some +dear one's health in the midst of them. Our driver, an intelligent, +chatty lad, was full of information, and we had to drive the prescribed +road by the wells out to the Ute Pass, a mountain-gorge wild enough--a +small _Tête Noire_--to points to which magniloquent names have been +given. + +It is not for want of what is called puffing that Americans neglect +the resorts of health of their own country, and in the States far and +wide the beauties and advantages of Manitou are blazoned forth on the +walls of hotels and in guide-books to all who can read. I may confess +now that, notwithstanding the magnificent altitude of Pike's Peak, and +the eccentric forms of the rocks in the "Garden of the Gods," I was +disappointed with Manitou. But then the visit was short, and the day +was hot, and the way was long and dusty, and haply it might be that +under different circumstances Manitou would deserve much warmer praise. +It possesses indeed an abundance of curious springs, said to be full +of health-giving properties; and in the course of our drive we halted +several times to partake of drinks from various springs, out of one of +which bubbled up very good soda-water, precisely like Schweppe's best +in taste and appearance. At the large hotel, which put one in mind of +the great establishments of the same sort in Switzerland, the water +served at table to the guests--a sort of pleasant Apollinaris-tasting +beverage--came from a natural fountain. + +The "cataract" nearly made us angry, and there was no regret felt when +the carriages returned to the hotel, where there was unwonted activity +and bustle, as the "Denver Zouaves" had just descended in a friendly +razzia on it, and were desolating the hearts and fireside resources of +Manitou. The consequences might have been serious, as it turned out, +to unoffending strangers. Those who needed it turned into the barber's +shop of the hotel to be shaved, and after some delay a coloured man +appeared, who began to try his hand on me. Fortunately it was not +'prentice, for it was very unsteady, and I became a little alarmed +for my cuticle. "It will be all right, mister," quoth the barber. "I +never cut any one. But I'm demoralised, dat's a fact, having to wait +on dem Denver Zouaves. Lor a messy on any enemy dey has! My nerve's +all gone to pieces wid their wantin' everting at once at the dinner!" +The hotel seemed far more clean and comfortable than the caravanserais +in the land of William Tell; but our stay was short, for we were put +under orders for a sight which has the most inappropriate name that +could be invented--a valley in which the most extraordinary-looking +columns carved out in a plateau by the agency of water, have been +left standing, detached and in groups, to which the visitor enters +through a cleft in a barrier of rock passing round the base of a pillar +of sandstone as high as a house. The "Garden of the Gods" contains +500 acres, and is surrounded by mountains and cliffs. The sandstone +pillars generally taper from the base upwards to a short distance from +the tops, which are flattened out or surmounted by slabs or blocks of +sandstone of fantastic outline, and they are called by names derived +from fancied likenesses to animals, birds, and men. The juxtaposition +of the most brilliantly hued, dazzling-red blocks and strata, with +masses of the same material of milky whiteness, gives the impression +that the scene is the work of human hands; it seems too quaint and +artificial for the hand of Nature, to which alone it is due; and the +vegetation and the trees are in keeping with the character of the +place. A trysting-place for geologists, and their happy hunting-ground, +no doubt. But why "the Garden of the Gods," I pray? + +From the valley or cup, emerging by another road, the driver took us to +a ravine-like recess, almost girt in by high wooded mountains, in which +Mr. (General?) Palmer is erecting a mansion of palatial importance--a +picturesque site surely--cliffs, forests, and mountain all around, and +in view one most singular sandstone pillar, named the Major Domo, 120 +feet high and only 30 feet round--a mountain stream brawling through +tangled brushwood glades--a garden. But the heat! That must prove a +terror by day to the inmates of Glen Eyrie Lodge or Castle--which, by +the by, was named, as one of us insisted, from a collection of rubbish +on a ledge in the face of one of the cliffs, which was, he maintained, +the nest of an eagle. It was now time to return to our train, and we +were not sorry to get back to Colorado Springs. + +From Colorado Springs to our destination at Denver there were still 75 +miles of rail, and the line continued to ascend till we reached Divide +(7186 feet), whence there was a gentle descent. There were sixteen +stations named on the time-table. We stopped at very few of them, +and travelled somewhat too fast to permit our placid enjoyment of the +scenery, austere and vast, which indeed deserved more attention than +could be given to it by passengers in a very lively train--endless +alps on alps, not sheeted with perpetual white, but rather flecked +with snowfields, which contrasted finely with the sombre pine-forests, +and the rich hues of the rocks, touched by the rays of the setting +sun, that, ere it slid behind the mountains, cast a rose-coloured +mantle on their summit. The evidences of a bustling city were not +wanting in the approaches to the capital of Colorado. There were tall +chimneys vomiting out smoke in the distance, and near at hand trains +of waggons were toiling over the dusty plain--still 5000 feet above +the sea-level--fast trotters and people on horseback, beer-gardens, +factories of all kinds, brick-kilns, and then a fringe of log houses +and wooden shanties, before the train stopped at the imposing and +substantial depot. + +It was a quarter-past eight, nearly dark, when we reached Denver, +and glad were we to get into the hall of the Windsor Hotel, which was +crowded with a mixed multitude--miners, and speculators, and traders, +and some travellers like ourselves--a very busy scene indeed. In the +hotel were all human comforts nearly; hot and cold baths, and good +rooms, and more appliances of civilised existence, for those who could +pay for them, than could be found in many hostelries of approved +reputation in venerable towns at home; moreover, exuberant offers +of help and information. One goes to bed laden with obligations and +heavy with the sense of favours which can never be repaid. There was +now a _soupçon_ of frost in the air, and notwithstanding the heat +which we had endured the greater part of the day, fires were not +ungrateful; and as we peered out of our windows over the roofs of the +wide-spread houses of the town, we could see the snow on the lofty +ranges of hills, watered by the South Platte River and Cherry Creek, +which surround the cup in which Denver has been built in obedience +to the impulses of the increasing population, which now numbers, I +believe, 38,000 souls. There was a bright glare from the gas-lighted +streets, sounds of music, and a tumult of life in the town which +would have been creditable to an ancient metropolis. In the morning +from the hotel windows appeared a beautiful and widespread panorama +of the hills we had seen the evening before, peak above peak, none +very densely covered perhaps, or presenting continuous snowfields, but +extending in billowy sweeps far away to the horizon, all capped with +snow, now bathed in a flood of fervent sunshine, the snow lighted up +by the peculiar crimson tints common in Alpine regions. There were +duties in the way of sight-seeing and exploration of no ordinary +nature to be done. First there were interviews and receptions, and the +inevitable drive through the place as soon as the ordeal of breakfast +was over; and ordeal in some sort it was for the strangers to file +in to the public room and take their places at their table, aware +that the morning papers had subjected them to exhaustive criticism, +which was being verified by those around us. The morning papers too +had given some topics for reflection, indications that in the newly +created capital of Colorado desperate men, overtaken by the march of +law and order, had refused to accept service, and were vindicating +their rights as wild western outcasts to take or part with life as +of yore, in reckless encounters and deliberate assassinations. There +were, perhaps, at that moment some hundreds, if not thousands, out of +the population of 37,000 or 38,000 of the city, who belonged to the +adventurous classes--sporting-men, betting-men, ring-men, bar-keepers, +hell-proprietors, and their satellites, and the scum of the saloons +attracted from the great cities of the States for hundreds of miles, +by the prey which miners with belts full of gold, half mad with drink, +and always fond of excitement, frequently are; and if to these be added +the dissolute loafers and broken-down mining speculators, the strength +of the army arrayed against the law may be estimated; and the wonder is +that among a population armed to the teeth there are not more cases of +such violent deeds as we were reading of at breakfast. To the stranger +there was no evidence of the existence of these disturbing elements, +unless the bearded and booted men with speculation in their eyes, +in the hotel passages and halls, belonged to the dangerous, as they +certainly did to the mining, classes. As to the resources of the city, +although for rapidity of growth its wonders may be eclipsed by those of +Leadville, Denver claims a very high place in the catalogue of these +marvellous fungi of civilisation, of which the Western States present +almost unique examples. There is everything that any one can want to be +had for money in the place, and much more than most people need. Paris +fashions and millinery are in vogue. There are fine shops, handsome +churches, a theatre, breweries, factories, banks, insurance offices. + +The principal street exhibits pretty young people, who would have +no occasion to fear comparison with the _beau monde_ in Eastern +or European capitals. The thoroughfares are crowded with vehicles, +and spruce carriages and well turned-out horses may be seen in the +favourite drive, that has been made over an indifferent road to the +base of the Rocky Mountains, which appear to be close at hand, though +they are thirteen miles away. But here and there in the well-dressed +crowd may be seen a Bohemian _pur sang_, or a miner in his every day +clothes, bent on a rig out and a good time of it. The streets, unpaved, +dusty, and rugged, are very wide, and bordered with trees, and the +houses generally are built of good red brick instead of wood; and +there are runnels of water like those one sees in Pretoria and other +Dutch towns in South Africa. The roads about the city leave much to be +desired; but Rome was not built in a day. + +There are many ready-made clothing establishments in the main streets, +and there is a heavy trade in tinned provisions. Through the Western +States, as in South Africa, the débris of provision-tins constitutes +a certain and considerable addition to the objects to be seen in the +vicinity of every house, and to the mounds of rubbish in the street of +every village. How indeed could the first-comers in such regions keep +body and soul together without the supplies in such a portable form +of the first necessaries of life? Having once run up a town in these +remote wastes, the inhabitants are still compelled to make a liberal +use of the same sort of food, and mines of tinned iron gradually +accumulate around them. + +Our first excursion was to the Argo Works, under very pleasant +auspices, for we had the wife of the Senator, who is one of the +principal partners, and Mrs. Pearce, whose husband is largely +interested in the works, taking charge of us. The works are at some +distance outside the town, but the lofty chimneys vomit out quite +sufficient vaporous fumes and smoke to blight the vegetation and to +give the people near at hand a taste of their quality. I am not going +to give a minute description, for more reasons than one, of what we saw +at the works; but it was a very interesting exhibition of the processes +by which the precious metals are extracted from the ores and delivered +to commerce. The Argo Works simply assay and reduce ores on commission, +but the business is on a very large scale. Immense piles, in fact small +mountains, of brown, cinnamon and earth coloured dust and rock were +heaped up in the sheds, to be brought to the furnaces and turned, when +divested of the lead, iron, copper, and gold, out in ingots of silver. +All the methods for the extraction of silver were shown to us, but +I committed a gross indiscretion when I asked, in my ignorance, "How +do you extract the gold?" "That," said the urbane gentleman who was +conducting us over the works, "we never permit strangers to see." So +there is more there than meets the eye. + +The business of assaying here must be profitable, and if the reputation +of any firm be once established there is a secure fortune for its +members. The miners flock to them, and they can dictate terms. The +extent of mining work in the country around may be inferred from the +numerous offices in connection with it in the city. As a specimen +of what Messrs. Bush and Tabor of our hotel give their guests for +dinner, let me offer you this _menu_ of the 5.30 ordinary to-day +(June 16). Soup, beef à l'Anglaise; fish, boiled trout, anchovy sauce; +corned beef, leg of mutton, sirloin beef, chickens with giblet sauce, +fricassee à la Toulouse, veal, kidneys sautés aux croûtons, rice, +croquettes, baked pork and beans, saddle of antelope, currant jelly, +lamb, tongue, chicken salad, spiced salmon; innumerable "relishes" and +vegetables, baked rice pudding, strawberry pie, apricot pie, jelly, +blancmange, vanilla ice cream, macaroons, pound cake, fruit, Swiss +cheese, nuts, coffee, &c. The wines were not cheap: champagne 16_s._ a +bottle, St. Julien 6_s._, Leoville 14_s._, sherry 8_s._, brandy 14_s._ +per bottle. Orders for "drinks" at the bar after dinner were much more +general than orders for wine at dinner. + +Denver, in spite of its mineral wealth, is very poor, however, in +that of which the want would make life, even in America, intolerable. +The supply of drinking-water is scanty and bad, and last year there +was nearly a water famine. The _cartes_ in the hotel announced "Water +used in this room is boiled and filtered." But great efforts have been +made to furnish the inhabitants with a store, constant and adequate, +of the precious fluid, and we saw very considerable works, the +property of an Irish gentleman, erected before the town attained its +present dimensions, which were to be supplemented by a new enterprise +respecting which we heard much. Perhaps no town of equal size in an +equal length of time has ever had so much money and money's worth +flowing in and through it as Denver since the Colorado mines were +worked. It is asserted that the trade of the town for 1881 will exceed +8,000,000_l._ Colorado in 1879 yielded ores to the value of more than +3,750,000_l._ The output in the present year will exceed that of 1880. +In that year $35,417,517 worth of gold and $20,183,889 of silver (more +than 11,000,000_l._) was deposited in the United States Mint and Assay +Office. There is, besides, vast wealth in flocks and herds, and Denver +is the place where the people resort from Colorado for purposes of +trade and pleasure; altogether an astounding place, with a future quite +dazzling to think of, unless the mines give in, and even then Colorado +cannot again be poor; its climate and scenery will always attract +travellers, and its capacity for feeding sheep and cattle will secure +its population. "And as to the beetle?" Why, no one would have anything +to say to it. Nothing was known of it. There might be such things in +other States. "And the name?" Probably it was a red-coloured bug, and +got the name Colorado just as the river, or tobacco, was called, from +the hue of it. At all events the bug did not belong to the State. + +The interest which the progress of Colorado and the condition of +society in the State excite was exemplified by the appearance in +Denver of a party of Hungarian noblemen, whose names gave occasion +for stumbling to the journalists who copied them out of the Hotel +Register--Count Andrassy and others, who were travelling under the +guidance of Dr. Rudolf Meyer, of Vienna. Although the air of Denver +is so much bepraised, it happens that most of our party felt rather +overcome at the end of our excursion through the town and the visit +to the smelting works, and one of the Hungarians was confined to his +room. However, they sallied out before dinner, and a gloomy prophet +of evil remarked, "If these strangers should have a difficulty, I +consider they'll hev only theirselves to blame. Some citizens don't +like strangers comin' in and starin' at them, and they're apt to be +awkward in their tempers in the afternoon." Knowing no danger, and +fearing none, they went off, and were a long time absent. Meantime we +were preparing for the road, as we were bound for Leadville, the city +of the "biggest boom" of mining times--"the Silver El Dorado," as the +guide-book, with a magnificent "bull," describes it. Our Hungarian +friends returned to the hotel ere we left. They were filled with +enthusiasm, and with a good deal also of curiosity in regard to the +shootings of which they had heard so much, and were following in our +track next day, and so we parted _sans adieux_. How the love of gold +has filled these lone valleys with desperate men! "They are a rough +lot, sure enough," said the landlord, "but lynching keeps them down; +and it is much better than hanging according to law, to my mind. It +certainly is cheaper." "How is it cheaper?" "Why," said he, "when a man +is prosecuted, or when he is tried before the judges, the law expenses +are heavy, and they fall on the county. When a man is lynched there is +only the expense of the rope, and a little loss of time for the boys +who do the job." From Denver to Pueblo and from Pueblo to Leadville +the line is on the narrow-gauge principle, and our train, which left +at seven o'clock in the evening, seemed to be driven on no principle at +all; for, anxious to astonish a Duke perhaps, or Britishers generally, +the driver did what certainly could not be called his level best to +send us along up and down a very rough line, and round the sharpest +curves, at the rate of forty miles an hour, so that when we turned +in, our rest, if rest at all it were, was exceedingly broken, and +we trundled about in our berths as if we were in a ship in a pretty +heavy sea. Still this narrow-gauge was the only line which could be +made through such a country as we were traversing. Peeps out of the +window ever and anon revealed, high up amongst the stars, rugged +mountain-tops, and for ever there came the sound of rushing water, +near or remote, as the train "bounded" on its course. I do not know +what stations we passed on our way, but the night was very long, and +I greeted with pleasure the first gleam of light above the hill-tops. +The Arkansas River was on our left, and at dawn we had glimpses of +its turbid stream running madly in deep gorges far below us. At the +South Arkansas station the train halted soon after daybreak, and then +we diverged from the main line, and a light train took us over the +Arkansas River by a fine bridge on its way up the Gunnison Extension +to visit the highest mountain-pass traversed by a railway in the +world. South Arkansas station is 217 miles from Denver, and is 6944 +feet--and Marshall Pass (25 miles away), to which we were bound, is +10,760 feet--above sea-level. There were grades of 211 and curves of +24° on the way, and the railroad twisted in and out among the ravines +like an iron Alexandrine, for ever ascending till we had passed the +limits of forest life. There were stations at short intervals--Poncha +Springs, Mears, Silver Creek--from each other. From the stations there +is a good deal of cross-country traffic, and at one place we saw three +stages laden with men and women--or rather, to be polite and accurate, +let me say with women and ladies--starting, one with six horses, and +the other two with four each. These were bound for Gunnison, and as +we were halting for a little, the Duke and some others got out of the +train, and sauntered up towards the wooden shanties which formed "the +town," consisting of the usual array of saloons and drinking places. +However, our course was cut short by the information vouchsafed by one +of the officials, that it might be as well not to go up, as there had +been a big shooting match that morning, and that one man was killed +and four had been wounded, "and some of them were on the drink yet." +From 4.30 A.M. to 6.45 A.M. we struggled up towards the pass till +the line came to an end near the summit, and we were rewarded by some +very fine views, exceedingly like those of the Mont Cenis Railway or +the Sömmering. The hills on both sides of the line were stippled and +flaked with snow, but there was no extensive field, so far as the eye +could see, nor was there any appearance whatever of a glacier, the tops +generally being clear of snow, which only lodged in the ravines and +hollows. Strange it was in these alpine heights to hear the clang of +Italian tongues; but most of the navvies were from Italy, and if not +quite so strong as English or Americans, they were in more favour with +contractors, because they did more work, owing to their steadiness and +sobriety. The line was being pushed on at an astonishing rate, and one +man was pointed out to us who had laid four and a half miles of railway +in one day, "the biggest thing of the kind ever done." Our enjoyment +of the scenery was very much diminished by our animal appetites, +stimulated by the sharp mountain air, which craved incessantly for +food. But not even a cup of coffee was to be had until we got back to +the South Arkansas station, late in the morning, where an excellent +breakfast awaited us. Here we were detained some time by a derailment +of an engine in front. + +From South Arkansas station to Leadville (61 miles) the railroad is +still more aspiring. The higher we ascend the less striking are the +scenic effects, but the grades are not very severe till we come to +Malta, where it reaches 130; from Hilliers to Leadville the maximum is +176, the curves being often 15°. The general character of the country +may be conceived from these figures, but no words can convey any idea +of the wholesale destruction of timber which has marked the progress +of the explorers and prospectors. Where the axe was weary the blaze +and the fire were called in, and hundreds of miles of forest are laid +in blackened ruin. At last we are on a level with the hill-tops. +There, on the hill-tops and in the valleys of a sterile region in +front of you, amidst those tall chimneys vomiting out smoke and steam, +is a wilderness of wooden huts, "the Great Carbonate Camp"--where we +leave the train--spread out over an undulating plateau, broken into +mound-like hills and sharp hillocks--bustling streets filled with the +most remarkable swarm of all nations that ever settled on any one spot +in the world. The story of Leadville reads like a chapter out of some +book of Oriental fable. It is a huge barrack of wooden houses, with +some solid and important buildings, with masses of tree-stumps cropping +up in the centre of the main thoroughfares, pitched over an undulating, +rugged, dusty ledge. In the midst of blocks of houses sprout up the +chimneys of furnaces and mining works, the clang of machinery fills +the air, which is thick with clouds of dust. It was a few years ago an +utterly wild, lifeless waste amidst the mountains covered with forests, +when three brothers, named Gallagher, exploring from California, were +led by some genius, good or bad, to test the material of the rocks in +the ravine. They struck gold ore, and silver too, and they set up a +claim; and presently they sold their shares in the land which they had +appropriated, for 40,000_l._, which they divided. Two used their wealth +wisely, and made more of it, and, taking to themselves the members of +the family, throve exceedingly; one, not so wise, if he were quite as +good, did not prosper as well as his brothers. But the scene of their +operations was soon swarming with enterprising miners. There was a +mighty "boom." Now there is a city! Leadville is, I think, the most +astonishing city on earth, but I am not by any means inclined to say +that it is a place I should like to be astonished about for more than +a few hours. + +The party drove to the Morning Star, said to be the best mine in +Leadville; and the Duke, Lady Green, Sir Henry Green, and others, went +down the mine in miners' clothes or cloaks. Two others, whose names I +shall not give, remained above, and had, I fancy, the best of the time. +Afterwards we visited Grant's Smelting Works, and then back to the +Clarence Hotel and dined, strolling out afterwards through the town and +visiting the billiard saloons, the Grand Central Theatre, and finally, +where we were told Leadville life was to be seen in all its glory, the +faro and the kino tables, which, however, were doing but very little +business, as it was not until after midnight that play in the town +generally commenced. Instead of sleeping at the hotel, we resolved +to take refuge in the train, which was drawn up at the siding; and we +had to drive in order to reach it, as it was considered unsafe to walk +through the streets in the dark. + +We started at four o'clock next morning, June 18th, and on arriving +at Arkansas Station learned that an engine was off the line in front +of us. Breakdown gangs were sent for, and all the locomotive talent +amongst our passengers repaired quickly to the scene. As it was not +easy to lift the engine, the engineers adopted the expedient of laying +a temporary rail to turn its flank so as to enable us to pass round +it, which we did after a delay of about an hour. The Duke got out and +sat on the cow-catcher by way of a change. But the interest we took in +the scenery was somewhat diminished by the intelligence that the delay +caused by the engine would prevent our enjoying the "soda bath" we had +been promised at Cañon City, and the sight of the State Prison, where +murderers were to be paraded by the dozen. About twenty miles north +of the Grand Cañon, the gorges through which the river runs became +wider and deeper. All that has been written about the Grand Cañon +utterly fails to convey an adequate idea of its exceeding grandeur +and wildness. The rocks--closing in so that the spectator in the car, +looking forward, thinks the progress of the train must be arrested, +and that it is not possible for it to get out of the _cul de sac_ which +appears in front, rising aloft for upwards of two thousand five hundred +feet on each side--are coloured with the brightest hues, and present an +infinite variety of form. The impetuous current of the Arkansas River, +contracted at times to the breadth of some twenty or thirty yards, +and penned into a space in which the waters boil and toss as if about +to leap on and submerge the passing cars, roars wildly down below on +our right at a depth varying as the line rises and falls. But it is +at the Bridge--a triumph of engineering skill--that the horrors of +the pass culminate. The sides of the ravine approach so near that the +daring engineer was enabled to execute the idea of lowering from above +a [**triangle]-shaped frame or trestle of iron; and, the ends catching +on each side of the gorge, permitted him to work on it for the +construction of the iron platform over which the train is carried at a +height of some hundreds of feet right over the maddened river. You can +look down through the interstices of the girders and glance shudderingly +at the hell of waters below--a sight and sensation never to be +forgotten. The ravine gradually expands and the cliffs recede as the +line strikes eastwards; and though the scenery retains a wild and +savage character for many miles farther, the impressions of the Grand +Cañon caused us to regard it with comparative indifference. We heard +many tales of the great railway war which was waged for the possession +of the pass, of which traces still remained in the ruins of posts of +vantage and observation, and the works of the defeated railroad +visible on the other side of the ravine. At night we reached Pueblo +and took up our quarters in our own cars, and continued our journey, +after some delay, towards Kansas City. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +KANSAS TO ST. LOUIS. + + Liquor Law--Kansas Academy of Science--An Incident of Travel--A + Parting Symposium--Life in the Cars--St. Louis to New York. + + +_June 19th._--Still on the rolling prairies; in the country of +compulsory abstinence--the paradise of Sir Wilfred Lawson. At 9.30 +A.M. the train stopped at Newton, 431 miles from Pueblo, and 281 from +Kansas. + +Here a phenomenon--there was a man by the road side who walked with +unsteady step, whose legs tottered, and who lurched violently as he +came down the road at that early hour. "He is a sick man," observed +one of my friends in the train; "that gentleman has been taking +_medicine_." In the Kansas Act there is a clause enabling physicians, +in case of need, to order stimulants for the patients without penalty; +but I am told the doctors have generally refused to act upon that +permission, so I suppose our friend had been consulting an unlicensed +practitioner. + +It would be ill done, when I am anxious to acknowledge the pleasure +and profit which I derived from my passage through the State, if I +did not record the satisfaction with which I perused a volume of the +"Transactions of the Kansas Academy of Science," which by accident I +picked up at one of the stations. The very name speaks trumpet-tongued +for the progress which has been made in this wild region. The year +before last, the twelfth annual meeting of the Academy was held in +Topeka, and I find amongst the list of papers read such subjects +as these:--The Kansas Lepidoptera; Kansas Minerals; the Mounds of +Southern Kansas; Recent additions to Kansas Plants; Kansas Botany; +Kansas Meteorites; Phonetic representations of Indian Language; +Sinkholes; Elementary Sounds of Language; Mound-builders; On Recent +Indian Discoveries. And among the lecturers there was Professor B. +F. Mudge, who died last year, whose name probably is known to a very +limited number of scientific men outside the University of Kansas. +Generally the papers contributed by the gentlemen of the State attest +industry and attainments which make their praise of the Professor +particularly valuable. It is curious enough to pick up in a railway +carriage, traversing such a scene of comparative wildness and vast +uninhabited plains in Western Kansas, an exceedingly interesting +examination of the Helmholtz theories of sight. The object of the +lecturer would scarcely be suspected by the reader. We had already +been struck by the extraordinary absence of signalmen, or of any +of the complex apparatus of men and machinery which may be seen in +Europe, and notably in England, to report the progress of trains +on the lines. Collisions, however, occur in America where these +precautions are not taken, and the lecturer attributed a good deal of +these accidents to colour-blindness, which appears to have attracted +considerable attention in the United States. Surgeons, pilots, &c., +are tested for colour, and in the army colour-blindness disqualifies +the recruit for employment in the signal corps. Altogether the papers +give an impression that in this new State there are diligent students +of natural history and physics, and profound inquirers into all the +phenomena of life. There was a reverse to the medal. + +At a station where the train halted beyond Pueblo, a card was handed +to me by one of the stewards. "The gentleman is, as he seemed very +pressing, outside; but I told him you were engaged." I started +as I read the name and address on the card, as well I might. They +indicated that an old friend whom I had left in a condition of great +bodily weakness and infirmity in London, was close at hand in this +remote region--a wonderful if welcome fly in amber. I ran out of the +drawing-room into the next car, and there saw a man, agitated and +travel-worn, whom I had never, to the best of my belief, seen in my +life before. His story was told, if not soon, at least in time to +let me partly understand the situation ere the train moved off. The +stranger had been in the service of the gentleman whose card he sent in +to me, but had left it to better himself in America, and had gone out +as valet to an American of good position at Colorado Springs. He found, +however, according to his own account, that he was expected to do +things not required of a valet in his own country, such as lumbering, +wood-cutting, and the like, and so he had thrown up his situation +and was going back to England. He had had quite enough of Colorado +Springs. "I was not there above a month, and I was shot at twice," he +said. "Once because I made some remark in a bar-room, where a chap was +abusing Englishmen; and another time while I was speaking in the street +to a man a fellow had a grudge against. He fired at him across the +road, and the ball whistled within a hair's-breadth of my head." He had +arrived at Pueblo some time before our special, and as the morning was +warm, he walked into a bar near the platform, while the engine of his +train was watering, to get a glass of lemonade. As he was drinking it, +a man walked in and called for a glass of whisky, putting down, at the +same time, what seemed to be a bank note, on the counter. The boniface +said, "I haven't got change for this twenty-dollar bill--perhaps this +gentleman can oblige you." The unsuspecting Briton, who had put the +money for his passage to Liverpool in a purse, drew it out to change +the note, and the strange customer at once seized it from his hand, +and rushed off towards the street with his booty. The Britisher ran +after him, but checked his wild career when he saw, within an inch of +his head, the muzzle of a revolver which the robber had drawn, and the +fellow vanished. "Won't you help me to stop the thief; you see what has +happened?" exclaimed the victim turning to the barman. "I guess there +was no money in that purse, sir. And if there was, perhaps you had no +more right to it than he had." Then the Briton dashed off after Don +Guzman, shouting "police," and was at once accosted by an officer of +the Pueblo force. He hurriedly stated the facts. The policeman smiled. +"I think you won't see that pile agin," he remarked; "and if you +don't look sharp ye'll miss yer train, that's a fact!" The man had his +railway ticket all right, a few dollars in his pocket, and I told him +I would see him and get him a passage, if I found on inquiry his story +was true. My companions thought the tale suspicious--but I believe it +was true, and I subsequently franked the man to England. + +Now here we had an exemplification of the manners and customs of +the district. Such an act of violence and robbery might occur in +London--anywhere. But what of the apathy, or perhaps complicity, of the +bar man? And if it or they be considered not altogether abnormal, is +the conduct of the policeman to be accepted as quite consistent with +the discharge of a policeman's duty? Well, whilst I was pondering on +these things, there came to me the best possible adviser--a judge in +this Israel--our excellent Palinurus, Mr. White. He threw a new, if not +a side light on the subject. "Depend on it he is a confidence man. The +trains are full of them! Our conductors have express orders about the +rascals." And he explained that a confidence man is a swindler--very +often an Englishman, who makes it his business to look out for unwary +strangers, on whom he imposes with some tale of distress, or some +recital of imaginary misfortune and adventure. As the man I had seen +was coming on in the train in our wake, Mr. White promised to talk with +the conductor, and find out, if he could, the truth about the Pueblo +robbery. Before dusk a telegram was forwarded by him to me from the +station where he left us, to say that the conductor had no doubt the +man was robbed, but that it was partly his own fault, and to warn me to +be cautious in my dealings with him. + +We have now been travelling straight on end for 1160 miles, with only +two engineers and two firemen and one engine, a feat of endurance +which has greatly exercised the Duke of Sutherland, who, as a practical +director of the London and North-Western Railway, has knowledge of such +matters, and who contrasts the performance with the experience he has +on the home lines, where engines, engineers, and firemen would have +been relieved or laid up over and over again. The head engineer of the +line, who joined us, Mr. Hackney, formerly of Congleton, had become +accustomed to these journeyings and endurances, which were brought to +the front in our conversation by the engine-driver appearing at the +door of the carriage to claim a dollar which he had won from the Duke +in a bet that he could not do the distance without laying up the engine +for repairs. + +All the long Sabbath-day we travelled on through the prairie, catching +glimpses now and then of wooden villages, around which trees were +beginning to sprout up, and of the little churches with knots of carts, +waggons, horses, and buggies outside, and people waiting for the end +of the sermon. Now and then, perhaps at intervals of fifteen miles or +so, are places of larger importance, such as Emporia, a rising city on +the plains, where many steeples pointed aloft indicated considerable +diversity of creed. An authority, not always to be relied upon, stated +that there are fourteen churches belonging to the town. + +There was a parting symposium in the second Pullman ere we reached +Topeka. Mr. White, Major Anderson, General Brown, Mr. Jerome, and +my much wandering compatriot, a veritable Irish Ulysses, raised the +tuneful melodies of the "Golden Slipper," the "Little Brown Jug," and +the other tender psalmodies which had whiled away so many hours, for +the last time in our society, and the little gages which were but the +outward and visible signs of the regard we felt for our friends were +exchanged with honest effusion. There may be--nay, there are--many +jealousies and causes of estrangement between the people of the Old +Country and of the New, but between the individuals of both there is a +_camaraderie_ which cannot, I believe, be found between Englishmen and +the natives of any country except America. + +"Good bye! God bless you! Be sure if ever you come to England you shall +have a hearty welcome from me." "And from me!" "And me!" "And me!" The +engine bell tolled, and we moved slowly on. + +And we were left all alone! The pleasant companions of so many weeks +had gone! I wonder if they missed us as much as we missed them? + +While travelling across the Rockies and the desert to San Francisco +and back, our course of life was pretty uniform, and one day followed +another with almost perfect resemblance in the mode of existence and +in all things except the scenery and the country through which we +were passing. First, in the early morning came one of the attendants +to our bedside with a cup of coffee, and then the curtains of the +little cubicle were thrown aside and you looked out on either plain, +or mountain, or river, or col; and on the faces of early risers at +doors or windows as the train passed through some rising town. At one +end of the saloon there was a bath-room, and from the tank there was +always to be obtained sufficient water for the purpose of an early +dip, which was enjoyed as occasion offered in turn by the party. Then +a cigarette. Then we dropped in as people do at a country house, into +the sitting-room, and exchanged ideas as to the progress made during +the night, and the stoppages, wondered where we were, and had a little +conversation with the conductor or Arthur as to the place where we +could stop or get the papers--and so got over the morning till 9 +o'clock, when breakfast was announced, consisting of fish, poultry, +meat, fruit (I had nearly said flowers, for there was always a bouquet +on the table), tea, coffee, and cold dishes, with abundance of milk +and butter. Where the fish came from and how they were kept fresh was +matter of wonder, for the instances were very rare in which there was +any indication that it had not quite recently come out of the sea or +the river. The supply of ice was liberal and unfailing, and whenever +we stopped at any considerable station the whole disposable strength +of the attendants in the train was employed in grappling with large +blocks of it and stowing it away in the ice reservoir, in which were +the larder and the cellar for such wines as needed cooling, and for +the vegetables and meat, of which there were great stores constantly +laid in. Then after breakfast there was reading or sight-seeing, +investigating the line, examining the maps, receiving visits and +returning them in other parts of the train, till in the very hot days +it was necessary, after expelling the flies, which were troublesome on +occasion, to draw the dust-blinds and the curtains of the carriages, +to mitigate the fierceness of the sun. It was objected occasionally +that by this process we deprived ourselves of the opportunity of +what was called "seeing the country," but after all a glance now +and then is quite sufficient to reveal the general character of the +districts through which the train is running; and the most diligent and +painstaking observer cannot keep his eyes fixed steadily for a day on +the external aspects of the region through which he is travelling. I +should be sorry to declare that every one was wide awake all the time +of the forenoon and up to the period of lunch, which too often exceeded +on the side of many dishes, being, in fact, a mid-day dinner; but then +no one was obliged to eat more than he liked, or drink either. Then +came the longest stretch of the day, and at its close another banquet; +and as the sun declined and the temperature decreased, we could take +more pleasure in looking out at the fantastic forms of the vegetation +which clothed the arid rocks in the desert, or on the bright green +prairie, or on the towering mountains, waiting till the sun had set, +generally in a blaze of glory. There were, of course, interruptions and +variations as we halted at the more important places; disappointments +about letters which had been telegraphed for and which were expected +day after day, constituted also a matter of conversation and discourse. +There was an harmonium in the sitting-room of the palace car, but +no one had the art of playing it, although we had plenty of music of +another sort; for after dinner the gentlemen of the railroad party who +had not dined with us came in, and we were never tired of listening to +the songs, so original and amusing, which they gave with great spirit +and admirable time and tune, for it happened they all possessed good +voices, and the melodies with which the troops of coloured minstrels +have now rendered the world familiar were then new to us. + +During the whole of our tour the weather has been most favourable. +With the exception of the rainy days in Canada, and the cold and +rawness which characterised the time of our short visit to Richmond, +there was nothing worse to complain of than continual sunshine. Now +and then the temperature was a little too good to be pleasant when we +were traversing the beds of the dry seas in the desert in Colorado and +California, but that was something to look back upon with satisfaction, +because there was no time lost in keeping within doors owing to the +rain and storm or cold. "Within doors," however, is a phrase scarcely +applicable to our mode of life, as it would imply that we were in +stable habitations, whereas, as will have been seen by those who +have accompanied us so far, we "lived and moved, and had our being" +in railway carriages; a mode of life rendered so comfortable by all +appliances, that it was sometimes no relief to be told that we would +have to pass the night at an hotel. + +For nine days and nine nights in succession, on one occasion, we never +slept out of the carriages or got out of the train except to take a +stroll about the station, or a peep into the street of a small town +whilst we were waiting, and one got quite accustomed to that nomad and +yet civilised mode of existence, where at every halting-place we were +supplied with the latest intelligence by the local papers, and made +the recipients of some attention or courtesy, visits and compliments +(the remarks of the other sort not being many), bouquets of flowers, +presents of fruit, and plenty of conversation. But that my critics +might say I dilate too much upon the material enjoyment of life, I +would describe at length the means which were supplied in the course +of these long journeys for animal enjoyment. Never could there be found +more attentive and obliging domestics than the coloured men who waited +upon us--Arthur and his fellows. There lived in the kitchen compartment +of the train, at the end of one of the saloons, a coloured cook, +very intelligent and gossipy, full of quaint conceits and dishes and +conversation, who commenced life as a slave on a Southern plantation, +probably adopted for indoor purposes on account of his smartness. He +liberated himself in the course of the war, and marched off with a +regiment of Federals in the capacity of cook and body-servant to one +of the officers, wherein he saw a great amount of very hard fighting +at very close quarters. This adventurous modern Othello was wont to +discourse with much animation when he came out for a breath of fresh +air on the platform and could find anybody to talk to him, although +he could move no more tender heart than that of Sir Henry Green. The +gentlemen of the Atchison, &c., Railway, when travelling with us, had +a _cordon bleu_ in the saloon--an Italian or Frenchman, I think, or +at all events a French-speaking man, who had served also, and would +have done credit to an establishment where faults in a _chef_ would +not lightly be condoned. In the interchange of courtesies, Mr. White +and his friends invited our party now and then to dine in the saloon, +which was not "across the way," but up a little, on the line, being the +saloon in front of us. + +But here we are at Kansas City once again! At 5.30 P.M. the train +arrived at the platform, which was gay with a Sunday crowd, of +whom many were negresses--black, brown, brindled, and yellow +_citoyennes_--in much variety of colour and garmenting. Unlike Samson, +their weakness is in their hair, and like Achilles, they are vulnerable +about the heels (to the arrows of an æsthetical criticism, which +accepts the Greek idea of beauty in form); but they seemed to enjoy +life amazingly, and not to be in need of beaux; perhaps the happiest +people in the world now that their chattel days are over. It was late +when we turned into our berths, for it was a lovely night and the +fire-flies exercised a great attraction over us, but at last the charm +was worn out and we slept till morning without a break. + +_June 20th._--Still the same boundless plain. In vain does one look for +the grass fields with close, even, carpet-like surface to be seen in +Europe. We are still passing through exceedingly rich land--the fields +covered with flocks of sheep and herds of good-looking cattle. There +are more trees by the stream-side, and shrubs growing in the hollows. +Habitations are more frequent, and so are fencing and planting. As the +sun was setting we approached St. Louis. There were some park-like +glades, and vistas opening up to pleasant mansions, amid grounds +showing marks of culture. There had been a severe thunderstorm the +night before, and the St. Louis Station had still traces of its effects +in pools of mud. But the rain had cooled the air, and the people were +rejoicing exceedingly in the great improvement that had taken place +in the weather, for, they told us, men and women had been dropping +down with the heat a few days ago as though they had been struck by +musketry. + +The appearance of the St. Louis Terminus gave one a high idea of the +importance of this city. Eight trains were waiting on their respective +lines to start with passengers to all parts of the Union; and by +the simple device of placing at the end of each train a large board +announcing its destination and the time of its departure, much anxiety +was saved to intending passengers, not to speak of the irritation of +officials avoided by this simple expedient. The journey was continued +by the Indianopolis and Vandalia, and by what is called the "Pa'handle" +line to the Pennsylvania Railroad on to Philadelphia. The train was +timed on Tuesday so that we were able to see the famous passage over +the Alleghany Mountains from Conemaugh to Altoona. For nearly eleven +miles we were carried without steam, and with the brakes on, through +very fine scenery, down the mountain-side, but the summit was crossed +in the darkness of a tunnel 1200 yards long. There are some striking +engineering feats in the way of curves and gradients, and the trace +of the line is very bold all the way down to Altoona, where the +Pennsylvania Railroad engine and machinery shops are established--the +centre of a population of some 17,000 souls, where twenty years ago +"there were," as a friend said, "only bears, deer, woodpeckers, and +skallywags." The Duke, Mr. Stephen, and our railway experts got out +and visited the workshops, and came back very much pleased at the +discovery of several London and North-Western men in good positions +in the Pennsylvania Railroad Company's service, who welcomed their +old directors with effusion, and that there was nothing visible there +for Crewe to copy, unless perhaps cast-iron wheels. The speed at +which we travelled was a sensible proof that we were once more on the +line of our old friends of Pennsylvania. From Altoona to Harrisburg, +132 miles, we rattled along in two hours and forty-three minutes. On +another stretch of the line we travelled eighty-three miles in one +hour and forty-two seconds, including stoppages; and the rapid motion +was very agreeable, as there was a perceptible increase of temperature +after we reached the plains and approached the beautiful valley of the +Susquehannah--a scene of industry, prosperity, and peace. Fortunately +there was a good light on the river, and we had a fine view of the +country all the way to Harrisburg under the rays of the setting sun. +A little farther on we were gratified by the appearance of General +Roberts at a station on the way, where he was awaiting the Duke to +congratulate him on his safe return from the Western expedition, and we +bade him farewell at his own house, with many sincere and well-deserved +acknowledgments of great and constant kindness. Then over the river by +the noble bridge, and on to Philadelphia. We did not visit Pittsburg, +which was vomiting out masses of smoke, nor did we halt this time at +the capital of the Quaker State. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +NEW YORK--NEWPORT--DEPARTURE. + + Coney Island--Newport--Bass-fishing--Habit of + Spitting--Brighton Beach--Newport--Coaching--Extra + Ecclesiam--Victories of American Horses--Newport + Avenues--Return to New York--Our last day in America. + + +The special train was detained by the immense amount of traffic on the +line, as we approached New York, and we did not reach Brooklyn till a +little before 11 P.M. on June 21, so that it was past midnight when we +ascended the steps of the Windsor Hotel, which we had selected by way +of a change, and found to be every way commendable, with the exception +of its distance from the busy parts of the city. The following day +was devoted to letter reading and writing, receiving visitors, and +various attempts "to go out," which were not generally successful, for +New York was palpitating with the intense heat. The "heated term" was +in full vigour, but it was now quite temperate in comparison to the +excesses which had marked its advent some time before our arrival. In +the evening we got up strength and courage enough to go to Wallack's +Theatre, a very pretty, well-constructed house, and saw "The World" +excellently acted and admirably put on the stage. Next day, June +23rd, in virtue of a solemn league and covenant with Uncle Sam and +Mr. Hurlbut, the Duke and I devoted ourselves to fresh fields and +pastures new, and ordered ourselves accordingly for Coney Island. A +long bank of sand by the sea-shore has, by an accident, become one of +the most crowded resorts in the world, and to-day there were races in +the new ground. It was not, as we found, so easy to get there. Having +the advantage of two experienced guides, our party of four managed to +break up into two and to miss each other; one taking the boat at one +iron pier, and the other embarking by a different mode of conveyance. +But as we were bound to see Coney Island, the Race course being a +secondary object, our temporary separation did not prove a source of +great annoyance. + +The early settlers would indeed have been astonished if they could +look round and see what they have brought the quiet place to in these +later days. They were Quakers persecuted by the good Christians of New +England, who were driven out of Boston as ruthlessly as though they +had been malignants and papists of the worst sort. They settled the +township of Gravesend about 250 years ago, and amongst the conspicuous +settlers occurs the title and name of Lady Deborah Moody, of whom this +deponent knows nothing, but wonders how, with such a title, she managed +to have influence amongst a Society of Friends. + +A ship was built, so the Americans say, of 70 tons in 1699, by the +descendants of the Quaker settlers, and less than 100 years later +the bold republicans, abandoning the doctrines of peace, engaged +and captured an English corvette off the island. It was all along of +General How, who landed his troops here and set the people to work on +the fortifications he threw up, whether they would or no. A corvette, +bound to Halifax, anchored off the island, and an old whaler, who, +says the chronicler, must have been smarting under the wrongs he had +suffered at the hands of the red-coats, or who possibly regarded the +work as he would the capture of a finner or a bottle-nose, imparted +to a few trusty friends the idea of "cutting her out." So embarking at +night in a couple of boats, they stole down with muffled oars and ran +up under the stern of the ship. There was no watch, and through the +cabin windows the officers could be seen playing cards. The crews of +the boats boarded the corvette simultaneously, seized, overpowered, and +bound the officers and men, lowered them into their boats, and, having +set the man-of-war on fire, pulled over to the Jersey shore with their +prisoners. It is to be hoped that the demeanour and language of the +captain have been misrepresented by local tradition; but he is said +to have cried bitterly, and to have exclaimed, "To be surprised and +captured by two blooming egg-shells is too blasted bad!" + +There was a long period of neglect before Fashion and the populace +found out the attractions of Coney Island. Fishermen, oyster-catchers, +and sportsmen visited the sandy beach from time to time; then after +a while a few houses were run up of a very inferior class, and these +were frequented by the very worst of the scum of New York, so that it +was almost dangerous, and certainly disgusting, to go among them, while +the scenes on the beach, to which the present proceedings afford such +a contrast, were described as being of the most disgraceful character. + +The official directions for spending a day at Coney Island certainly +indicate a belief in the possession of enormous physical energy and +indefatigable curiosity on the part of the visitors in those who +compose the code. Having given you sailing instructions by the iron +steam boat to Bay Ridge for the Sea Beach Railway (ticket 35 cents), +you are to visit the Sea View Palace Hotel, the Piazza, the two iron +piers, the _Camera obscura_ (10 cents), the Great Milking Cow, the +top of the observatory (15 cents); then to eat a Rhode Island clam +bake (50 cents), visit the aquarium (10 cents), take a park waggon and +ride over the Concourse to Brighton; see the hotel grounds and bathing +pavilion there; then take the Marine Railway (5 cents) to Manhattan +Beach; visit the Oriental Hotel and take the Marine Railway to Point +Breeze (10 cents) and return back to Brighton Beach Pavilion and take +a bath; then see the Museum of Living Wonders (10 cents), dine at the +Hotel Brighton, hear a concert in the evening, and return to New York +by 11 o'clock. "This trip," observes the compiler, "may fatigue one, +but the excitement soon overcomes the trouble." Coney Island is indeed +an institution. + +Along the sea front of the bank for some three or four miles there +has been constructed an esplanade lined with seats, and defended from +the sea by a stone wall. Outside there is a belt of shingle on which +the surf breaks, but not violently, unless in bad weather. Large +bathing establishments, with every appliance, are placed at convenient +intervals along the shore. Here in the season tens of thousands of +people may be seen, all properly and decently attired, disporting in +the waves. At the time of our visit, the hour and the season of the +year seemed not to be favourable to the indulgence. We were too late +in the day. It is an early place, and from 7 till 9 A.M. from the +month of June to the end of September are described as the orthodox +periods. Nevertheless the spectacle was quite unique, and if you can +imagine Brighton with half-a-dozen Pavilions blown out to twice their +size, and the largest hotels multiplied by ten in length, breadth, and +depth, you may fancy what the Coney Island front is, provided always +that you can also conjure up (literally) myriads of well-dressed men, +women, and children perambulating the esplanade or sitting in the +grounds around the various establishments which occupy a large space +inland--pavilions, hotels, exhibitions, restaurants, and club-houses. +There were fireworks going on in broad day; but these were principally +for the purpose of exhibiting very ingenious Japanese figures, which +were discharged from bombs, and which gradually descending were objects +of eager competition amongst the younger members of the enormous +multitude. And with all so much good-humour, so much propriety of +demeanour; none of the brutal rushes of "roughs" which disgust one +with English popular assemblages--none of the brutal horse-play, and +screams, and unmeaning cries of the 'Arrys and the Bills of our popular +resorts. + +Looking at Mr. Marshall's excellent book on the United States, which +we found to be copious and accurate, I was struck by what he says +respecting a habit of the people which, according to my experience, +has very much decreased since I was last in the States, but which +he finds in as full force, and repulsive as ever. I am bound to say +I think the habit of spitting has very much diminished, but from +numerous evidences, from the presence of spittoons in every room and +in the passages of the hotels, and from public admonitions, such as +one we saw at some of the theatres, that the audience would not spit +upon the stage, I must believe that it still exists. What the cause +of this habit may be it is not easy to determine. It cannot be in the +race, because it is scarcely an "English" habit. I would be inclined +to attribute it to the drinking of iced water, but ladies in America +use the national beverage quite as freely as the men, and spitting is a +masculine failing. Can it be a result of climate? Scarcely. For in the +States, British-born people do not seem to be affected by the influence +of the habit in those around them after many years' residence. Smokers +and non-smokers alike indulge in the practice, so that tobacco cannot +be charged with the disagreeable custom. I assume that it is as common +as Mr. Marshall asserts it is, but I am bound to say, according to +my own observation and experience on my last visit, that there was no +evidence to show that it was common or national. Chewing tobacco also +appears to me to have fewer votaries than formerly. A remark to that +effect at Richmond brought upon me something like a rebuke from the +gentleman to whom I spoke, a Judge of the land. "No, sir," he said, +"not at all! I rather think we chew more than ever!" And, to illustrate +his faith, he produced a silver box, shaped a plug of no doubt very +excellent weed, and thrust it into his mouth. I do not recollect, +however, meeting a gentleman in the course of our journey who used +tobacco in that way, with that exception. + +In the grounds in front of the pavilion, where an excellent orchestra +of some one hundred performers were playing, sat a very large and +appreciative audience, who applauded with discrimination, and were +content with the good performance of each piece. + +Our common rendezvous was the Surf Club, one of the numerous convivial +associations for which Coney Island seems to be specially adapted; +and I presume the name had nothing at all to do with any supposed +amusements of the members in connection with the surf on the beach +outside. There was some difficulty in finding our way through a +labyrinth of rooms all filled with guests: with corridors swarming +with people; with vast halls, where at hundreds of tables there were +seated people engaged in the consumption of the _menu_ of a Coney +Island restaurant, abounding in strange dishes and attended by armies +of waiters. At a rough guess, I should say there may have been about +4000 people in the building--and this was but one of several--I think +the Brighton Beach Hotel, but of this I am not quite sure. + +When the Prospect Park and Coney Island Railroad was opened none +believed in its success, but the foresight of the projector was +justified; and when it was found that respectable people would go +there, if the vagabonds of both sexes and their associates were driven +away, the police asserted themselves, and swept off the gamblers and +the others of a still more dangerous class, who were to be found there +in increasing numbers every year; and then hotels were erected and +landing-places made for the steamers; and now the electric light blazes +in a hundred halls, and music and rejoicing sound late into the night, +contending with the noise of the surf upon the beach. Bowling-alleys, +shooting-grounds, archery, croquet, sailing and rowing, all invite some +of the visitors, according to their tastes. An amusing exemplification +of the ingenuity of American advertisers is afforded by the sailing +vessels, which display in enormous characters on their main-sails +the names of quack medicines, from which no corner of this continent +appears to be safe. + +On June 24th the party, which had been somewhat dislocated, reunited +their scattered forces, and at 2 P.M. started by train after a little +repose, for Newport, R.I. It was a kind of holiday after our travels, +but somewhat out of place, for we were told the Ocean House was +scarcely ready; but we should not have found it out, had we not been +informed of the fact. The newspapers had been on the alert, and soon +after the Duke's arrival visitors began to call and invitations to pour +in--some well-nigh irresistible, for they included opportunities for +experiences of bass-fishing. + +_June 25th._--Newport has not yet put on its festive attire. It is +not the season, and we ought not to be here. Nevertheless it is still +so pleasant, and so respectably dull, that one enjoys it amazingly. +After breakfast we walked down to the seashore and sat gazing on +vacancy, and on three yellow ladies collecting clams. Returning thence +in a very hot sun, ran to earth in the hotel where, presently, there +were many visitors; and how kind and anxious to please they were! Mr. +Fearing drove up later on the top of a drag, and whirled us away to +a charming fishing-box on the shore, in order to judge for ourselves +what bass-fishing was like. It was a very pretty drive, and Mr. Fearing +handled his "four" as if he were bent on joining the Coaching Club--not +indiscreetly, as the horses were not accustomed to going together, but +with satisfactory decision--and we all were landed without mishap by +the side of the road, close to one of the best-organised sporting-boxes +I have ever seen, built entirely for the comfort and delectation of +Mr. Fearing and two or three friends who own the bass-fishing stands, +at the end of one of which a gentleman was then busily engaged in his +pastime, for the sea comes rolling up upon the rocks within some forty +or fifty yards of the sward of the green meadows on which the house +is placed. From it projects into the breakers a platform supported +on iron pillars, at the end of which there is an enlargement of the +structure to enable the fisherman and his attendants to stand at their +ease--the one in hurling the bait and the other in preparing it. And +first, as a proof that the labour is not futile, there was exhibited a +terrible-headed monster with great scales, which had been caught that +morning by Mr. Whipple--a bass of 57 lbs. weight, of which I think the +skull and jaws and gills must have weighed a third. The fishing is not, +as I found, to be done at once, but needs a little practice. The art of +casting consists in the double operation of jerking the bait from the +top of a stiff rod, and checking the run of the line without permitting +it to overrun, which it is very apt to do in an inexperienced hand, by +a pressure of the thumb on the reel, just sufficient to let the weight +of the bait carry out the hook to the farthest stretch of the jerk. +The rod, not more than eight or nine feet long, a work of great art, +and costly, is furnished with a reel, also very expensive, containing a +couple of hundred yards of prepared line. At the end is a large single +hook, sometimes secured to a piece of piano-wire, as the "blue fish" +will cut through the strongest cord or gut. To this is fixed a junk of +fat oily fish, of which supplies are kept in a basket close at hand, +to be cut up for ever and ever by the attendant, and ever and anon +pieces are chucked into the sea, and being of a very unctuous nature, +the oil rising to the top, floats away on the surface of the water, and +attracts the bass within measurable distance of the platform. Captain +Fearing threw, Mr. Whipple threw, and the gentlemen at the end of +another pier emulated them, and pounds, perhaps stones, of bait were +thrown into the sea, but the bass, which are capricious, like most +fish, were not to be caught; and so after a time we returned to the +cottage. + +I was, unfortunately, unable to accept an invitation from one of the +many hospitable gentlemen in Newport, to go out and spend the evening +on a desolate island, where they are said generally to have exceedingly +good sport, in order to get up before sunrise the following morning +and essay my skill, or want of it, in bass-fishing. Mr. Wright, an +enthusiastic sportsman, availed himself of a like invitation with +great pleasure and with many anticipations of delight, but on Monday +morning he returned weather-beaten back, and boot-less and bass-less +home, although he assured me he enjoyed himself very much, and had very +agreeable company out at sea on the rock. + +The following day (June 26th) was cloudy and cool, and all that was +of rank and fashion in Newport went to All Souls Church. There are +many churches in Newport, and in the height of the season, each is, +I am told, well filled on Sundays. And wonderful it is that there is +neither dissension nor controversy among the congregations. They mingle +together coming and going, affording to me, who have been accustomed at +times to observe the manners and customs of my country men and women +on like occasions in Ireland and elsewhere, ground for wonder, not +unintermingled with an ardent desire that we, nearer home, could learn +the secret of this moderation. + +Mr. Bridgman, our fellow-passenger in the "_Gallia_," is enjoying his +_villeggiatura_ with his wife and family in a pretty little cottage. +We were very much pleased indeed to renew our acquaintance with him, +although there was no scope for the display of his fine talents as a +salad-maker. It was not foggy enough for the ladies, who delight in a +thick and moist _brume_ from the Banks, and who sit at the open windows +when it comes on for the sake of their complexions, as it is esteemed +a sovereign cosmetic beyond Maydew or Kalydor. Whether it be rightly +credited with these virtues or not, I can answer for the presence of +many fair ladies in church, and on their way to and fro in the streets. +We dined with Mr. and Mrs. Keene, who reside in one of the best villas +of the many charming dwellings in Newport. + +The victories of the American horses in France and England created +an enthusiasm in the States almost as intense as though they had been +won by the national fleets or armies. From one end of the Union to the +other the news was flashed the same day, and we saw the names of the +conquerors in large letters in every newspaper. Unfortunately there +came at the same time reports of foul play to American competitors at +the hands of some English roughs, and there was a good deal of heat +caused by the objections taken to the entry of the "Cornell Crew" at +Henley. These international contests should be very carefully conducted +and judiciously worked, or they will do more harm than good, if indeed +they do any good at all. The injurious insinuations respecting the age +of Foxhall could but excite indignation in the minds of honourable men +against whom they were directed. + +There is a State House in the town, and there is also a mansion +occupied by Commodore Perry, but the most useful inhabitant of the +place appears to have been one Abraham Touro, a Jew, who gave his name +to the park, a cemetery, a synagogue, and a street. Altogether there +is rather an old-world air and look in the town; but one must go along +the Avenues to have an idea of the charms which lead so many of the +principal families of the Eastern States to make the place a resort +when they are not enjoying the delights of travel in Europe, or that +blissful existence which endears Paris to our Transatlantic relatives. +Bellevue Avenue is bordered by a number of very sprightly dwellings, +of every order and disorder of architecture, and rejoicing in all the +extraordinary richness and elaboration of American workmanship in wood, +each standing in a little park of its own, generally rich with trees, +shrubs, and an ornamental garden. Several of these interiors, as we +had reason to know, were furnished in the very best taste, and filled +with objects of art, excellent examples of good masters, principally +foreign, and articles imported from all the corners of the globe. Of +an afternoon the ladies might be seen driving, in very well turned-out +carriages, to some rendezvous where lawn-tennis or a picnic awaited +them; and altogether, even at this time of year, Newport presented a +picture of great refinement and comfort, which enable the visitor to +understand how attractive it must be in the height of the season, and +why it is Americans are so fond of life in Rhode Island. + +I am not in a position to throw the smallest doubt upon the statement +that the mass of stones in the form of a tower, ivy and moss covered, +and evidently the work of human hands, was not built by the hardy +Norsemen hundreds of years before the arrival of Columbus. There are, +moreover, people who declare that the erection is due to a British +governor of the colony, when it was more prosperous as a commercial +resort, though not so fashionable as it is at present. But American +antiquaries take a great pleasure in propping up the proofs which have +been adduced of Scandinavian enterprise and discovery on the continent, +many centuries before Vespuccius, Columbus, and the English navigators +lived. + +We dined on the evening of the 27th at the house of Mr. Shattock, +a gentleman of New York, who had assembled a party of very pleasant +people to meet the Duke, and kindly hastened his dinner-hour to suit +our convenience, as we were obliged to go on board the Fall River boat, +which called at 9.30 P.M. to take up passengers for the Empire City. +There was some difficulty about getting cabins or state rooms as they +are called, but "Uncle Sam," who came from New York to consort with us +quietly, applied himself diligently to telegraph wires, telephones, +and the like, and when the great steamer came alongside the wharf +our dormitories were ready. The night was calm and fine. There was an +excellent band, quite worthy of being called an orchestra, on board, +which played to the delight of a large audience till it was bed-time. +As a "sight" for a foreigner, nothing could be more striking than +the vast saloon, brilliantly illuminated, with hundreds of people on +sofas, chairs, and benches, reading or conversing in the intervals +of the music, and presenting infinite varieties of type and class, +yet all so orderly and well-behaved; and if you moved quietly through +the crowd, your ear caught many strange languages interpolating the +American speech--German, French, Polish, Russian, Italian, and, perhaps +the natives would say, British. There is some care observed in the +locking up of cabins, and I believe there are detectives and police on +board the boats; but it is said they do not look after the morals of +the passengers, and concern themselves only with vested interests in +portable property. There was no sea on, and the only motion was caused +by the beating of the paddles and the throbbing of the engine, and +early in the morning of the next day we were at our quarters in our +comfortable hotel in the Fifth Avenue. + +_June 29th._--And yet more excursions. Bound by a long-standing +engagement, a small detachment of our party set out this evening to +visit Mr. Barlow at his country place, Long Island, which travellers, +perhaps, have not much occasion to see. The Mayor of New York (Mr. +Grace) and Mr. O'Gorman were on the steamer which took the Duke, Mr. S. +Ward, Mr. Hurlbut, and our host down the Sound, and were introduced to +us by Mr. Barlow. The first-named gentleman I mentioned in one of the +early pages of this diary in connection with the vigorous efforts to +purify the civic atmosphere made by him on his accession to office. I +learn that he has since obtained a large measure of success, and let me +hope corresponding thanks from his fellow-citizens. Attacks on corrupt +influences are apt to receive lukewarm support from the politicians. +The power of the respectable classes, which hold aloof from politics, +is not large. Mr. Grace had more opposition than help from his own +countrymen, who have been long nearly omnipotent in New York, and who +monopolise a large proportion of the civic offices and employment. +Mr. O'Gorman, one of the traversers with O'Connell in the famous State +trials, is one of the leading lawyers of New York, and is held in much +respect by his fellow-citizens. The "old Country" is still dear to him, +but I seemed to gather from his remarks that he shared in the distrust +which American lawyers generally expressed respecting the principle of +the Land Bill then under discussion as far as interference with the law +of contract--"the very foundation of social life"--was involved. Glen +Cove is a beautiful place, standing high above the level of the sea, +and commanding charming views of the sound and of the opposite shore. +It is surrounded by trees, ornamented by woodland and fine natural +groves, broken up by ravines, through which trickle streams of water. +The mansion is furnished with every comfort and luxury, and we had a +garden to saunter about in the morning, and a genial hostess to talk +to, and her fair daughter to sing for us, so that it would have pleased +us well to have made a longer sojourn at Glen Cove. Here we passed two +very peaceful days, part of Wednesday and Thursday, and in a pleasant +drive with our host in the early morning had some slight outlook on +umbrageous Long Island. "_O! si angulus iste!_" It is 115 miles long +and 14 miles broad, and quite big enough for me! And there be deer +in the woods and trout in the rivers, and fish in all the creeks, +and game in the wooded lagoons, and forest, lake, and civilised life, +and many things to please the eye; and then the comet was so good as +to display his glories and his tail before Glen Cove. But our time +of departure from the States was drawing near, and there were still +things to be done in New York, and many engagements to be kept, ere we +started on our homeward journey on July 2nd; and at 12.35 on the 30th +June the Duke and I took the "cars" at a rural station, and reached +New York at 2.35, in time for a run through Tiffany's and some little +shopping and visiting. There was a dinner arranged by "Uncle Sam" at +"Sutherland's" in honour of the famous city restaurant. The house is +one of a type which has, I believe, disappeared in the "City," where +once flourished famous establishments such as Williams' Beef Shop +in the Old Bailey, Dolly's in Paternoster Row, the Billingsgate Fish +Ordinary, Jacquet's, &c., like it in character. Great New Yorkers do +not disdain to cross the threshold, within which they find admirable +fare and excellent wines--the national delights of clam chowder, clam +soup, soft-shell crabs, and many other Transatlantic delicacies--at +the far end of Broadway, still holding its own against the fashionable +restaurants. Of the party who dined there with Chancellor Robertson +and others in 1861, only "Uncle Sam," Mr. S. Barlow, and I survive; but +the host, a granitic sort of man, with a kindly Scottish heart warming +the case inside, seems capable of presiding over his feasts for another +generation. + +_July 1st._--It was difficult to realise the idea that this was our +last day in America, but the truth was forced on us by the practical +duties of getting the baggage ready and settling up generally, ending +with a dinner at the Turf Club, where we met Mr. Keene, of Foxhall +fame, who had also entertained us at Newport, Mr. Jerome, Mr. Stuart, +Mr. Travers, and other fathers of the New York sporting world, which +seems very like our own, and had to drink madeira of all but fabulous +antiquity and excellence. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +RETURN TO EUROPE. + + The "_City of Berlin_"--The Inman Line--The Service at Roche's + Point--Queenstown Discomforts--A sorry Welcome Home. + + +_July 2nd._[B]--Up at 5.30. The Duke, Lady Green, Sir Henry, Mr. +Wright, Edward, all engaged in the transport department, with Mr. +Trowbridge in observation; incessant activity. The Queen Anne coach +was in readiness at 7.30, and in half an hour more we were discharged +at the Inman wharf. There was a great flotilla--five large steamers +leaving at the same period for Liverpool, and there was the usual +throng at the landing-places of friends to bid "good-bye" to those who +were about to cross the Atlantic. The steamer we had selected belonged +to the Inman line, and whatever there may have been wanting to the eye +on board, compared to the trimness and paint of the Cunard steamers, +there was nothing to regret in our accommodation or service. There were +so many passengers that the dining-saloon, illuminated by the electric +light--which was also used for the purpose of lighting the engine-room +and the lamps in the corridors--would not contain them all at the same +time, and so there were two messes for dinner. Epergnes filled with the +most beautiful flowers were ranged in order, and a rampant war-steed +composed of white roses was displayed on the table. I am not about to +give a log-book, or to trespass on the patience of my readers by an +account of such an ordinary event as a passage home. The second day +after we left New York was the anniversary of Independence, July 4th, +and the day was duly celebrated by the citizens of the United States, +who constituted the large majority of our fellow-passengers. The "stars +and stripes" were hoisted at the main, and the cabin was draped with +British and American flags. But there was no speechifying, and the +spread-eagle was content with moderate flights; a recitation and a song +or two, and the fire of champagne corks, being the only indications of +an extraordinary festivity. + +About this time of the year the Atlantic, in the latitudes which +we traverse, is rather vexed of fogs; and if one be disposed to low +spirits, I know nothing which weighs upon him more than the sound of +the fog-horn. But what must it be for the captain, who is perforce +obliged to go at full speed, or as near to it as he can, with the +expectation every moment of some startled cry from the bow "Sail right +ahead!" Nor is it quite out of the running that an iceberg may be +taking a sail across his course. Fortunately we had no experiences of +the kind; and as night was falling on the 10th July land was in sight. + +The lights of the Fastnet were seen through drifting haze, and about 10 +o'clock at night the "_City of Berlin_" steamed through a rising sea, +with a strong beam wind, into the roadstead of Roche's Point, burned +her rockets, and laid-to for the steamer to take the mails, and those +passengers who had decided to land, on shore. + +It was blowing freshly, and rain fell heavily; and as we looked down +from the lighted decks on the murky water, and made out the tug as +she paddled up to us, rising and falling on the waves, we were seized +with reasonable misgivings as to the propriety of leaving our ship and +taking to such a craft. I am bound to say that our experience more than +amply justified them. + +I am writing these lines with a very faint hope that any amendment +will be introduced, in consequence of what I say, into the abominable +service between the American vessels off Roche's Point and Queenstown. +In fine weather and in daylight it is not of much consequence, perhaps, +what discomfort one may be exposed to in a short passage to the +shore; but to affront women and children with the misery which must be +experienced at night time and in bad weather, in the steamers employed +in the service, is little short of barbarous, if it be not indeed +altogether so. + +After I had got down upon the deck of the little steamer and surveyed +the scene around me, I thought that it would have been much wiser to +have gone on with my friends to Liverpool; but I had some engagements +in Ireland, and so had the experience I was glad not to share with +my fellow-passengers, on whom I should have liked the old country +to have made a favourable impression. There was the great steamer, +with hundreds of waving hands, and the sound of friendly voices +bidding us "God speed," a blaze of lights, and almost as steady as +the solid earth, as the horrible little tug puffed away, and, getting +from under her lee at once, encountered the swell. If she could have +ridden over the water below, she certainly could not escape that which +came down from above; so that we were all pretty wet and cross and +miserable in the half-hour which elapsed before we reached the shore. +Fortunately, there were not many passengers who availed themselves +of the opportunity; but the deck of the steamer was crowded by poor +people returning to their native country. Accommodation for the +cabin passengers, except seats on the wet and sloppy decks, there was +none. There was a little cabin, stuffy and comfortless, and moreover +occupied by a couple of women who had come out to see friends by way +of a pleasure excursion, and who were suffering the last extremities +of sea-sickness. The spray broke over the luggage and passengers; +it was in such circumstances that the custom-house officers began +their search. One of them, opening my bag, which was unlocked, found +a small revolver. It was unloaded, and there was no ammunition for +it; but, nevertheless, it was seized, for I was "importing arms into +a proclaimed district without licence." A similar mishap occurred to +a Spanish officer, who was not quite so easily appeased as I was by +the assurance that the arm would be given up on proper application +to the police. His revolver, he insisted, was part of his uniform, a +necessity of his existence, and the authorities might as well seize +his epaulettes or spurs. However, my deadly weapon was restored to me +some days afterwards, after a correspondence with the custom-house, +and I dare say the Hidalgo was equally fortunate. These were incidents +to denote that we were in the midst of trouble. There was but a sorry +welcome for us when we landed at Queenstown. Not a car to be found, +that I could see; but there were a few porters, and the agent of the +hotel at the pier; and, commending my luggage to his care, I walked to +the establishment. It surely cannot be quite an unaccustomed event for +a steamer to arrive at Queenstown at that time of night! The last train +for Cork had gone; and it might have been expected that lighted rooms +and some sort of preparation would have awaited the travellers; for +every vessel that touches at Queenstown, coming from America, surely +lands a few people needing rest and refreshment? A demoralised waiter, +who appeared to think that such a thing had never happened in the +whole course of his experience, as the inroad of ten or twelve people +asking for supper and bedrooms, informed us that nothing could be done +until the gentleman who represented the hotel at the landing-place had +arrived; and so we sat on the stairs for half an hour, and were then +shown into a gaunt room, dimly lighted by gas. There was nothing ready. +The hungry people, by dint of patience and perseverance, eventually +succeeded about midnight in obtaining some poor substitute for supper +and scrambled to their beds. + +I mention the circumstances in which my fellow-passengers and I were +landed at Queenstown, that those who are interested in promoting +the welfare of the port, and in making the route through Ireland +less thoroughly objectionable, may take steps to obviate the great +inconvenience to which travellers at present are certainly exposed. + +Next morning I reached Mallow. I was but a few hours in the +"distressful country," but I found that things had gone from bad to +worse while we were in the States. I heard from my fellow-travellers +in the train that "Boycotting" had attained such a pitch in the South, +that all the relations and conditions of social life were exposed +to peril, if not destruction. And still, with the usual cheerfulness +of Irish landlords, accustomed, as it were, to these excesses of the +popular will, my informants talked of hunting, fishing, and shooting; +and I heard full accounts of the state of the rivers, and of the take +of fish which had made some of them happy. The County Cork, indeed, +had nearly a parallel in the "wild West." But what a contrast between +the state of public feeling, in respect to the outrages which were +perpetrated in each, in the country we had left, and that to which +I had returned! In the United States there was no attempt to justify +the men who were guilty of such deeds. In Ireland it was impossible to +obtain evidence or to convict the offenders. I am not going to close +this narrative of our little excursion with a political disquisition, +indeed I have not the materials for forming any opinion respecting the +breadth and depth of what may be called the Irish national movement in +the United States; but there seems to be a general vague impression +in America that as the British Government was not very wise and +equitable in its dealings with the people of the thirteen colonies +in the reign of King George, it is, somehow or other, at the present +moment, treating with harshness and injustice the whole of the Irish +race in Ireland. It is impossible not to recognise the fact that the +head, perhaps the heart, and certainly the purse of this development of +Irish discontent are in the United States. The arms, the body, and the +legs are in Ireland. During the whole time of our visit, although we +visited towns where eminent orators were lecturing upon Irish subjects, +and where representatives of the League were in session, there was not +a trace brought home to us of the strong sympathy which undoubtedly +exists in many American cities with the movement in Ireland. There +were accounts of the meetings in the newspapers, and now and then a few +leading articles on the subject; but we might have concluded, from what +we saw and heard generally, that the Irish question was of far less +importance to the American people than the religious views of Colonel +Ingersoll, or the discussions between the railway companies respecting +their fares. The recital of wrongs, most of which have been long ago +redressed, still reaches the ear and touches the heart of the American +public, and if the Irish population had not in many ways provoked or +excited the antagonism of the native Americans in the towns, and of +the Teutonic element which exercises such a powerful influence in +the country, there would be far greater sympathy for the supposed +oppression of the Sister Island by England. The fact that emigrants +come from Europe is accepted as a proof that the countries which they +leave are ill-governed; and Americans, in dealing with the emigration +question, are apt to forget the existence and nature of the forces +which induced their own ancestors to seek homes in the New World. + +The _New York Times_ declared in an article last June, that there is no +essential difference between the two divisions of the Irish in America +and of the Irish in Ireland. The voyage across the Atlantic works no +transformation in Pat, and he is still as much an Irishman after his +plunge into an alien civilisation and taking out his papers as when +he stood on the old sod in Meath or Tipperary. "He cares no more for +the American eagle than for an owl; but a sprig of shamrock stirs him +to ecstasy. The name of Washington has no meaning for his ear; but +that of St. Patrick is a living and potent reality." That statement, +however, must be taken with qualification. There are to-day 90,000 +acres of land in Minnesota as thoroughly Irish as if they were planted +in the centre of Connaught. There are Pats and Pats. Many of the most +wealthy and prosperous merchants, bankers, and landowners whom we met +in the West were not merely of Irish extraction, but born Irishmen, +and the extraordinary spectacle of Irish millionaires who knew how to +keep their money, and to add to it, too, may be seen in San Francisco +and elsewhere in the West. Many, less fortunate, have high positions +either in the army, or as politicians, or in the estimation of all +that is great and good in America--such as Mr. O'Conor--men who have +held aloof from politics, and who could not be tempted, even by the +Presidentship, to enter the arena of party strife. One convicted rebel +of 1840 now occupies a leading place at the American bar. I heard him +denounce the Land Bill in terms he might have used in denouncing the +atrocities of the Saxon in his hot days when O'Connell was king. The +influence which has been acquired in many parts of the Union by the +Irish immigration and by the descendants of immigrants has naturally +excited at various times the opposition and indignation of the American +born, and it has always been more or less opposed by the Teutons of +different nationalities who occupy such a powerful position in all +the great States of the West. But "the Native Party" is now either +dead or sleeping. A very distinguished officer and politician said +to me that he had at one time been a most eager and ardent adherent +of the policy of the Native American Party, but that when he saw how +earnestly and devotedly the Irish had come forward in defence of the +Union, how brilliantly they had fought, and how recklessly they had +sacrificed their lives, in 1861, he felt constrained to abandon his +principles, and to admit their free right to all the privileges of +American citizenship. I could not, however, but recollect that General +Richard Taylor, in his most amusing, able, and graphic work on that +same war, from the Confederate side of the question, bore the strongest +testimony to the services of the Irish in the army which fought under +the banner of the Slave States. In New York and in San Francisco +the Irish element has exercised almost supreme control in municipal +matters, and it may be said, without offence I hope, that, whether +it be owing to the opposition they have encountered or to a radical +deficiency which may be Irish rather than Celtic, their management has +not conduced to the comfort of the cities or to the pecuniary purity +of the Executive. In San Francisco there is a strong anti-Irish press +and much anti-Irish feeling. The 'Argonaut' repudiates the thraldom of +the Irish associations and factions in the Far West as strenuously as +the 'Times' and 'Tribune' do in the East. But notwithstanding all that +may be written and done, it is impossible to resist the influence of +numbers under a system of suffrage so large as that which exists in +the greater number of the American States. It was curious to read in +a Californian paper an appeal to England to suppress Irish agitation. +"We confidently believe," says the _Argonaut_, "that the wisdom of +its public men, the healthful condition of its public opinion, and +the strength of its military power will be sufficient to crush out the +Land League movement, which is but incipient rebellion. That England +will deal justly, firmly, and successfully with this effort of united +ecclesiasticism and Communism is the earnest wish of every intelligent +and independent mind that believes in free government, the guarantees +of property, the rights, and the personal liberty of man." However, +there are American parties, if not statesmen, whose wishes are by no +means directed to such a consummation, and we must take note of the +fact. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +SOME GENERAL REFLECTIONS. + + Education--Free Schools--Influence of Money in + Politics--Corruption in Public Life--Crime on the Western + Borders--The Great Rebellion--Anniversaries--Great courtesy to + strangers--Manners and Customs. + + "Westward the course of Empire takes its way; + The four first acts already past, + A fifth shall close the drama with the day, + Time's noblest offspring is the last." + + +The "tar-water Bishop of Cloyne" would have been exceedingly astonished +could he have seen the first line of his prophecy or averment made to +do duty as a motto to Mr. Bancroft's History of the United States; but +surely if the prophecy be not realised, it will be the fault of the +agencies engaged in working it out--never in the history of mankind, +as we know it, have such advantages been enjoyed by any nation as have +been, and are, the appanage of the Americans of European origin in +the New World. They have leaped into the possession of their heritage +full armed, like Minerva from the brain of Jove. For them have all +the champions of human rights died or conquered, and the protagonists +of human struggles for liberty and light fought. For them Science has +trimmed her lamp--for them martyrs have died--for them Europe and Asia +have been in toil and travail for countless generations, and they have +been guided across the sea to a grand continent where it would seem as +if Nature had been engaged for myriads of ages to provide for their +happiness and grandeur--all climes and all products are theirs--the +bounteous plain, the ore-filled mountain, the treasures of the deep, +the heaven-made ways by lake and river, and it would be a despair for +all mankind if they misuse their glorious inheritance, and if all the +nations of the world see that the pillar of fire in the west was but +an _ignis fatuus_ dancing before their aching eyes in a Serbonian bog +of creeds and 'isms, of factions and faiths, all struggling towards +the gate of the Temple of Mammon. "Philosophers," in all the doubts and +fears which the condition of the Republic inspires at times, cling with +confidence to the palladium which is, they think, to be found in the +system of education based on the free schools of the States. If there +were not a distinction between knowledge and morality, they would be +justified; but the Evil One tempted us to eat of the fruit of the tree +which brought sin into the world, and if Americans are to be trusted +as authorities, the result of the largest and most liberal system of +education ever devised is not as happy in practice as it ought to be +according to theory. + +As the central Government extended its sway over the Territories there +was a uniform system, when assigning land for public objects to railway +companies, of retaining for the School Fund a portion of the land +in each Territory, as it was settled and admitted as such, under the +control of the central Government. In the States Constitutions creating +Sovereign States, there are provisions inserted, varying very little in +language and not at all in spirit, which render it compulsory on the +Legislature of each State to maintain public schools free to all the +children of the people residing within its borders. Another principle, +of universal application, provided that all schools under public +control should be free from sectarian or denominational teaching, in +the schools or in the books used for educational purposes. With such +safeguards for the extension of education, it is depressing to find +that, in certain districts at all events, crime and immorality prevail +in the United States as extensively as in the benighted kingdoms of the +Continent of Europe. But the most serious consideration in connection +with the system of common schools in America, is the fact that serious +doubts are intruding themselves respecting the success of it. In a +recent official report it was stated that whereas the children who +ought to go to school numbered about fourteen and a half millions, the +average attendance was not more than five millions. But, assuming that +all the children went to school, there are people who declare that the +education given under the National system is by no means satisfactory. +Mr. R. G. White affirms that the system is a failure; and high +authorities assert that "any comparison between the results obtained +in the public schools of New York, Cincinnati, and Boston, with those +of such public grammar schools of England, as Bedford, Manchester, and +the City of London, is simply ridiculous." The teachers are continually +shifting, and when the teachers, as they do in this land of liberty, +go away, the schools are deserted, the constant services of a staff +cannot be retained unless there is very considerable increase in the +rate of payment now made to the male and female teachers. None of these +in any State have, I think, more than about 9_l._ per month. Mr. White +says that "the mass of the pupils of the public schools are unable to +read intelligently, to spell correctly, to write legibly, to describe +the geography of their own country, or do anything that reasonably well +educated children do with ease; and they cannot write a simple letter, +they cannot do readily a simple sum in practical arithmetic, they +cannot tell the meaning of any but the commonest of words they read and +spell so ill. They can give rules glibly, they can recite from memory, +they have some dry knowledge of the various ologies and osophies, +they can, some of them, read a little French or German with very bad +accent; but, as to all real education, they are as helpless and as +barren as if they had never crossed the threshold of a schoolhouse." +It is from American writers that these accusations against the common +school system are to be gleaned. Some statisticians say that crime and +pauperism are increasing far more rapidly than population. The charge +on the State for punishing criminals and keeping paupers last year was +$20,000,000, or £4,000,000; but it is too much to attribute crime and +pauperism to the defects of the schools. It might with more reason be +argued that the teaching of the people in the schools tends to develop +the looseness and eccentricity of thought, where there is no religious +teaching, which are exemplified in the uprising of extraordinary sects +and strange philosophies; for America is the land of spiritualists, +mesmerism, soothsaying, and mystical congregations. Mr. Hepworth Dixon +may not be a perfectly unimpeachable authority on the subject of the +number of spiritualists in America; but there can be no question they +are to be counted by millions. It is averred that believers in spirits +generally believe in "special affinities which imply a spiritual +relation of the sexes higher and holier than that of marriage." It is +not wonderful then that there should be also a very large number of +divorces, especially in the New England States. Mr. Nutting says that +"in the history of nations there has never but thrice occurred such +a breaking up of the family tie as is now taking place, especially in +Rhode Island and Connecticut, among the people of New England blood." +Mormonism, although of American origin and early growth, has been +mainly successful by the constant importation of ignorant peasants from +Europe. + +There is a want of reverence on the part of children towards their +parents which is very striking. Americans who have admitted and +deplored this have sought to account for it by the school system, +wherein the State usurps the place of the parent, and teaches the young +idea to mock at any authority but that of the schoolmaster. It would be +lamentable to have to admit that free education is associated with the +weakening of parental influence. Theoretically, there is nothing in the +American system to prevent the teaching of religious and moral duties +by parents at home; but it would seem as if very little of that kind +of instruction was given by the busy fathers and anxious mothers of the +Republic, and that when the day's work is done at school, and some time +given to the preparation of the studies for the day to follow, there is +no further teaching. + +I do not think the rule "By their fruits shall ye know them" can be +applied to the public schools, in connection with the prevalence of +crime, immorality, unbelief, or eccentric religion. But it is certain +the system has not by any means secured that high level of general +education, or what education is supposed to bring with it, which its +friends claim for it in the States. There is reason to believe that +the standard of morality has not been uniformly high in the political +world, and that in the public intelligence the judiciary does not +aspire to an absolute immunity from suspicion. Even in the old settled +States, legislators from time to time may be found, who, seated among +the good and wise, excite admiration akin to that which is aroused by +the spectacle of a fly in amber. It has been observed by travellers +that whatever affection may exist in families, it does not attain that +keen sensibility and lasting power which is found in French domestic +life. + +When American newspapers of the greatest influence and circulation +write invectives against the corruption which prevails in places +high and low, when writers of great intelligence and known character +contribute similar articles to periodicals which possess the highest +position in the literary world of America, a stranger may be permitted +perhaps to say a few words respecting the impression produced upon +his mind by what he heard and read on the subject when he was in +the country, without it being alleged that he attempts to assail +the principles of free government, or to make invidious charges or +wholesale accusations against a nation. I know too well the force with +which Americans could retort if they were so minded, and how they could +point to the reports of election judges which set forth the prevalence +of extensive bribery, led to the suspension of writs, and will perhaps +end in the disfranchisement of some ancient and populous boroughs and +constituencies in England, and to the speeches of Sir Henry James in +Parliament, to cast any stone out of my glass house on that score; +but I do not think it can be established that persons in a position +at all analogous to that of the members of a State Legislature have +been purchased wholesale in England, Ireland or Scotland, or that even +a complete Borough Corporation had been bought up. Now, nothing was +more common in the Far West than to hear it stated openly that Senator +So-and-so had bought his place, and that Mr. So-and-so had purchased +a State Legislative body in order to "get through" some railway or +other scheme. That was accepted in fact as a matter of course, and +not contradicted or questioned by any one. We heard from time to time +of the sums which So-and-so would expend to buy his senatorship, and +of the money actually paid to secure the passage of a line from the +legislature of O---- and the like, whilst stories relating to the +purchase of judges were common in the conversation of the hotels and +cars. + +I do not aver that these stories were true. I only know that they +passed current and were not challenged by those who were around us. +"Thoughtful persons," who exist in the United States as well as in +the vicinity of Pall Mall clubs, lament, deplore and hate the evils +of growing corruption with all the fervour of honest and powerless +natures. The mechanism is scarcely concealed. It stands before the +world with less attempt at disguise than the gallows in the gaol. Mr. +Parton, in the 'North American Review' of this July, writing on the +power of public plunder, says: "At present, in the ninety-fifth year +of the Constitution, we are face to face with a state of politics of +extreme simplicity, of which money is the motive, the means and the +end. What was the last Presidential election but a contest of purses? +The longest purse carried the day, and it carried the day because it +was the longest. Some innocent readers perhaps have wondered why the +famous orators who swayed vast multitudes day after day and night after +night, have not been recognised in the distribution of office. They +were paid in cash from ten dollars a night to a thousand dollars a +week." And then he goes on to describe the business in detail, and to +show what this power is. He says: "There is a boss in the city of New +York who will take a contract for putting a gentleman into Congress. +Pay him so much and you may go to sleep, wake up and find yourself +member elect. A boss is a man who can get to the polls on election +days masses of voters who care little or nothing for the issues of the +campaign and know of them still less. They operate upon the strangers +in the land who are unable to use its language and are unacquainted +with its politics." Mr. Parton describes with humour one of these +"bosses," an improvement on the pugilists and cormorant thieves of a +remote period. "The Emerald Isle gave him birth; the streets of New +York, education. To see the brawny, good-tempered Irishman walking +abroad in his district when politics are active is to get an idea +of how the chief of a clan strode his native heath when a marauding +expedition was on foot. He lives in a handsome house, and has more +property than any man has ever been able to get by legitimate service +to the United States. He treats his dependants and retainers nobly, but +as the agent and organiser of spoliation he is a prey to every minor +scoundrel, for at certain seasons he dare not say no to any living +creature. And yet it requires tact, self-possession and resource to +move about among needy people with a pocket full of money, an embodied +"yes," and have some of it left after the election. The strikers, as +they are called, go for solid cash now instead of target companies and +clambakes for which the candidates paid the bills." "Money, money," +exclaims Mr. Parton, "everywhere in politics, in prodigal abundance, +money, except where it could secure and reward good service for the +public, hecatombs for the wolves, precarious bones for the watchdogs." +The details in the article are precise, and if they are to be trusted +it may be doubted whether the claims of the United States to possess +a cheap government can be maintained, for it is not cheap to pay +responsible executive officers a precarious pittance per annum if +now and then it costs a million dollars to change them. Mr. Secretary +Blaine has thrice declared that the election in October 1880 in the +State of Maine, a model New England State, was carried by money. His +opponents declared that he and his party were as bad, and that they +too flooded the towns with money. What renders the situation more +dangerous is the fact that the men who provide the money for running +these enormously expensive political combinations are either seekers +after, or holders of, office, and the inference is that they seek to +control Government, or, as Mr. Parton puts it, that "the Government +is coming to be rather an appendage to a circle of wealthy operators +than a restraint upon them." That is indeed a serious proposition, and +the result of observation goes to support the idea that it is valid. +The small man is in office, but the big man, his master, is outside. +The mischief is brought prominently forward in connection with the +sale of public lands in the North-West, which have been claimed as the +heritage of the people, and indeed of all the nations of the world. The +government land attracted the hardy labour of all countries, covering +the western west with thriving towns and populous counties. But now +the prairies are skinned by rich men, by "land-grabbers," people who +buy up tracts of twenty thousand or thirty thousand acres wherever +they can lay their hands upon them, evading the law and filling the +western world with roving labourers who work on these prodigious farms +in summer and starve in winter. This is, we are told, the result of +"government by lobby." + +Occasionally there is an exceeding great and bitter cry over all this +from the depths of the body politic. Some great paper in a moment of +deep mental agony publishes an article like that, to which I have +called attention, by Mr. Parton; occasionally some preacher, nobly +daring, thinks it necessary to direct attention, from his pulpit, to +the progress of corruption. Dr. Talmage delivered a very remarkable +discourse whilst I was in America on the text from Job. xv. 34: "Fire +shall consume the tabernacles of bribery." Although I do not profess +exactly to understand to what particular sect he belongs, he is one of +the leaders of religious thought, dividing with Beecher and others the +popular favour in the Empire City. The State buildings at Albany ought +to be heavily insured if the reverend gentleman's vaticinations are +right. It was an American discourse. I cannot give the whole oration. +The people of the Brooklyn Tabernacle were presented with a muster-roll +of the people who had distinguished themselves amongst the great ones +of the world. Cobden, Brougham, O'Connell and Rowland Hill were placed +in juxtaposition as leaders on our side of the water. Of course it was +impossible to resist the allusion to Francis Bacon and to Macclesfield; +but it was scarcely correct to say that the Lord Chancellor +Whiteberry--I presume a misprint for Westbury--"perished," nor do I +quite understand what the preacher meant by the awful tragedy of the +_Credit Mobilier_. Washington, Ben Butler, and John McClean were linked +together for the benefit of Americans. They were, Dr. Talmage declared, +great politicians, but "out of politics there has come one monstrous +sin, potent and pestiferous, its two hands rotten with leprosy, +its right hand deep in its breeches pocket. This is bribery." Dr. +Talmage called upon the American people to judge the crime. "Under the +temptation of this sin," he exclaimed, "Benedict Arnold sold the fort +in the Highlands for thirty-one thousand three hundred and seventy-five +dollars; Gorgy betrayed Hungary, Ahitophel forsook David, Judas killed +Christ. I think," he says, "when I see the strong men who have gone +down, of the Red Dragon in Revelation, having seven heads and ten +horns, and seven crowns upon its head, drawing the third part of the +stars of heaven after it." And therefore he proceeds to preach against +bribery. He thought it was the right time, "because the Legislature +in New York is busy in investigating charges of bribery. The whole +country woke up in holy horror at the charge that two thousand dollars +had been offered to influence a vote in the Legislature, as if this +was something new; as though in one State nine hundred and seventy-five +thousand dollars had not been paid a legislator of the State Government +by a railway company to get its charter and secure a dedication of +public lands; as though three-quarters of the legislators of the United +States had not, through bribery, gone into putrefaction whose stench +reached heaven. After a few weeks' hunting the squirrel has stolen the +hickory nut. Gentlemen in New York hunt out wrong by day and play poker +and old sledge at night at Delavan House. It was like the country which +had spent six millions of dollars in lawsuits about William Tweed going +suddenly into hysterics when it found out that he had stolen a box of +steel pens. California is submerged in the grip of a great monopoly; in +Kansas United States senators had been involved in charges of bribery; +in Connecticut an election to Congress was bought as men might buy +a box of strawberries. Last year they were convicted of attempting +bribery in Pennsylvania, but the Court of Pardons liberated them with +the exception of two judges, who were told that they would be cut off +from political preferment for their obstinacy. A Pennsylvania United +States senator used to put a price on legislators just as a Kentuckian +puts a price on his horse." But it was not legislators alone that Dr. +Talmage attacked. He declared that the railways, the common carriers +of the country, were tainted by a favouritism which was, in fact, +the result of bribery. One company made rebates in its fares to some +favoured corporation, as in the case of a petroleum company, which +was enabled to control the price of that light all over the world in +consequence of a virtual monopoly that was given to it by arrangement +with the railway. In the same way merchandise in grain, provisions, +and cattle are placed in the hands of a few firms. "How much," asks +Dr. Talmage, "did it cost the Elevated Railroad to keep the fare from +dropping to five cents from ten cents? I have been told," said he, +"three hundred thousand dollars," which is 60,000_l._ "Very seldom +does a bill pass through any of our Legislatures if there be no money +in it. Sometimes the bribery is in bank bills, sometimes in railroad +passes, sometimes in political preferment, sometimes by the monopolies +given to the legislators, what are called points, a corner, a flier, a +cover, washing the street, salting down, ten up! If you want to know +what these are, ask the bribed members at Albany and Harrisburg." +Then he goes on, with some truth, to declare that the bribery begins +far away behind all this; that it is really with the money subscribed +for election expenses that the evil begins its course. "From the big +reservoirs of subscribed election expenses the little rills roll down +in ten thousand directions, and by the time the great gubernatorial, +congressional, and presidential elections are over, the land is drunk +with bribery." Perhaps it is quite as well that it is from an American +orator and from an American writer such statements and such indictments +proceed, rather than from a stranger like myself; but it is very clear +that the evil which De Tocqueville indicated long ago has spread rather +than diminished, and there is reason to think that it will do so until +the public conscience of a great people is aroused to a sense of the +enormity of the mischief. But it lies far down towards the base of +the national institutions, and any attempt to extirpate it will fail +until the doctrines of the "Spoils to the Victors" be rejected from the +political catechism, and the interests of party made the means and not +the end of political life. + +The letters which appeared in the _Morning Post_, written under +the influence of the surprise and anger I felt at the extent and +impunity of crimes of violence and the state of feeling, or want of +it, respecting them in the West, were badly received in America, and +were severely handled by a few papers, as I was informed; I expected +that the mention of the subject would not prove agreeable, though +I guarded myself most sedulously from a single offensive word--nay, +went out of my way to palliate the offences against life and living, +and to excuse the people who allowed them, whilst I most carefully +drew the line--a broad one--between these border ruffians and the +law-abiding, virtuous people of the settled States. I was not, however, +prepared for misrepresentation. One would have thought that I accused +the kind hosts who had received us--our generous entertainers in +so many cities--the courteous, polished gentlemen who accompanied +us--of murder and robbery, and ascribed to them the brutal murders +committed by Canty or the Kid. As I quoted chapter and verse, and as +the papers which vilified me could not deny the statements, they wrote +that I had been imposed upon by the vivid fancy--in other phrase, +the deliberate lying--of their brother editors in the West. One organ +had the effrontery to declare that the Duke of Sutherland expressed +his delight at the kind and courteous treatment of the ruffians I +denounced; adding, "somebody lied--it was not the Duke." No. It was not +indeed! A friend sent me one of these, and below an article in which it +was said that I might take my place "beside Basil Hall, Mrs. Trollope, +and Dickens for libelling the people of the United States," and that +my stories were all inventions, there was a pregnant commentary as +follows:--"Sunday, July 17th: Daring Train Robbery; Bandits Boarding +Chicago, Rock Island, and Pacific Cars; The Conductor and a Passenger +Shot Dead, and the Safe in the Express Car Robbed; the Passengers Saved +by a Brakeman." + +I hope it will not be imagined that I have any desire to cast obloquy +on the grand efforts, supremely successful as they have been, to +turn the prairie and the desert to the uses of civilised man and +of the world, and to open up the Western Continent to humanity and +civilisation. I am too sensible of the courtesy, ready service, and +hospitality everywhere accorded to the party of English travellers +of which I was one, to write one word which I thought calculated to +give pain or offence to any of our many friends or to any right-minded +American. _Maculæ solis!_ 'Tis a pity they are there! In a few years, +perhaps, the memory that such things were will have passed away like +the recollection of some evil dream. But public sentiment must make +itself felt, and above all there must be some abatement of the maudlin +sympathy, which is virtually on the side of crime, if it be active in +averting punishment. + +Crime in America, especially in the Eastern States, is very much +the same as it is in other countries, but in the far West there is +more recklessness in dealing with human life, which, in spite of the +Howard Society and of humanitarians, I believe to be connected with +the indulgence extended under State laws by American judges and juries +to criminals who appear to be deserving of nothing but the strict +and unmitigated application of the rope. "Property" is safe, for the +citizens hunt down with extraordinary energy marauders whose object is +simply plunder. Ordinary robbers and gangs of burglars are speedily +and summarily suppressed. It is otherwise with those who assail life +and limb. The desperadoes who infest the "saloons," as they are called, +with which every western settlement is sure to be provided as soon as +the shingle roofs are placed on the earliest upheaval of deal planks +which can be called a dwelling, have far greater immunity and freedom +than burglars or robbers. Wherever the train stopped for water on +our journey in New Mexico, Western Colorado, or Eastern California, a +rectangular wooden box, with a verandah, open doors, windows screened +by a muslin curtain, perhaps a flagstaff with the Stars and Stripes +flying, a large signboard, and some high-sounding name--the "Grand +Alliance," "Union League," "El Dorado," "Harmonium," "Arcadia," or +the like--was visible, with the usual group of booted and bearded +miners, and their horses hitched up at the door-posts in front; inside +you would be certain to find men of the same class at a bar, behind +which, known for miles around, the affable Charlie, Bill, or Bob was +dispensing drinks and mixing cocktails, slings, and the other drinks, +in which the badness of the spirit is artfully disguised by a stimulant +of a more active character and more pronounced flavour, known as +"bitters," and kept in subjugation by the liberal use of ice. For even +in these burning regions ice is stored up as the one thing needful. The +rudest miner is accustomed to it; iced drinks are consumed by classes +in America far below the social level of those who never taste them in +this country. + +As the train was halting at Colorado Springs the stewards engaged +in an animated discussion respecting a certain erection of poles and +rafters just visible in an adjacent field. "I tell you dat's it." "I +say tidn't." They were discussing the probability of the scaffolding +being the gallows whereon "Canty, the Buena Vista murderer," was to be +hanged the day after. On April 29th, last year, Mr. Canty was standing +on the platform in front of Lake-house with "Johnny the Ham," "Curly +Frank," and "Off Wheeler," when Thomas Perkins appeared in an alley +opposite, endeavouring "to induce 'Dutch Bill' to go with him to the +office of Justice Casey, who had deputised him for the purpose." Canty +and his companions at once ran across and demanded his release. Before +Perkins could answer, Canty fired and missed him. The second shot +wounded Perkins in the arm; the latter drew his pistol, but before he +could use it Canty fired; the ball shattered the constable's hand. "For +God's sake," he exclaimed, "is there no policeman to help me?" He fell, +and Canty, walking close to his side, coolly sent a bullet through +his body. He was arrested, tried, and convicted. His counsel applied +to the Supreme Court for a _supersedeas_, but the court, after solemn +argument, refused the application. Then they applied to the Governor +of the State, but Mr. Pitkin, though "a weak-kneed man," would neither +grant a reprieve nor a commutation to imprisonment for life. There +was, he said, no ground "to set aside a verdict of a competent jury +and the district judge reviewed and approved of by the Supreme Court." +In the very last hour a woman came forward, and the Denver paper gave +_verbatim et literatim_ the text of the document in which ... "with dew +regard," she offered Sheriff Spangler $50,000 (10,000_l._) to save the +life of W. H. Canty, her cousin, whose real name was, she said, N. H. +Salisbury. "I entreat you to have him spared till you have an interview +with me." She added that "Jennings and his brother in Leadville would +pay a still larger sum. You may have ample means for life," &c. A +gentleman of the press, who came into our train at South Arkansas, +was present at the execution. Just before the drop fell, Canty, who +had expressed complete confidence in his ultimate liberation till the +day before his execution, spoke for fifteen minutes, protesting his +innocence. Then he exclaimed, "Good-bye, nothing can save me. I have +faith in the Saviour and a hereafter." The trap was sprung, but to the +horror of every one, the rope broke at the beam. The murderer's neck, +however, was dislocated, and "a happy relief was experienced" when +it was found he had died a painless death. As he was the nephew of an +eminent statesman it was expected his friends would take action as to +the disposal of his remains, which were put "in a neat casket at the +sheriff's expense." In the journal there was a woodcut of the murderer. +"Before his likeness could be taken holes were bored in the door and +Canty was lashed to it, and then, when the door was set upright, the +photographer watched a favourable opportunity when the head and eyes +were quiet and secured the impression" from which the engraving was +made. He was not so fortunate as Frank Gilbert, who was sentenced to +be hanged the following day for a brutal murder, but respited, "in +order that the proceedings may be reviewed by the highest judicial +tribunal," by Governor Pitkin at the last moment, "till July 29," the +day on which Rosencrantz is now sentenced to be hanged. The sheriff, +Judge Ward, the clerk of the court, and the prosecuting attorney +joined with others in petitions to the governor on the ground that +the Supreme Court judges had refused a _supersedeas_ in consequence of +the defects and informalities of the record of the proceedings in the +court below. Rosencrantz was respited, and the public, who had been +expecting a double execution on the 18th of June, were disappointed, +although they were allowed to slake their curiosity by the sight of the +condemned men and by testing the ropes in the prison enclosure where +the scaffold was ready. In the paper which gave the text of Governor +Pitkin's reprieve there was a heading "Done Brown. Al. Huggins, +marshal of Recene, turns out a bad man. He shoots and fatally wounds +officer Brown of Kokomo." Phil. Foote, constable of Kokomo, formerly +marshal of Robinson, and Al. Huggins, marshal of Recene, it seems had +spent the night in visiting the saloons of Kokomo, and in the early +morning began to fire their pistols and guns off in the street, and +continued to do so until Andy Sutton, marshal of Kokomo, attempted to +arrest them, but failed, "as he was quickly covered by two rifles." +Mr. Brown, a police officer, asked Huggins to put up his pistol, and, +to encourage him, proceeded to pocket his own revolver, when Huggins +took deliberate aim with a 38-calibre Colt and shot Brown in the left +breast, just above the heart. Huggins and Foote started for Recene. +The marshal of Kokomo followed quickly in pursuit, with a large body +of men. Huggins refused to surrender, whereupon the marshal shot him +in the face. As there was a movement to lynch him, Al. Huggins was +sent under strong guard to Leadville, but Foote escaped. "Brown was +not dead by last accounts, but was not expected to live long." Then +came a long account of another "Denver tragedy. Charles Stickney +murders Mr. T. Campan and Mrs. H. O. Devereux in a boarding-house." +Stickney was nephew of ex-Governor Clifford, of Rhode Island, served as +lieutenant, 20th Regiment, in the war of 1861-4, graduated at Harvard, +became principal of a school, married a lady whom he sent to London +to study music, and tried mining whilst his wife was giving music +lessons in Denver. There she met Mr. Campan, one of the best families +in Detroit; Stickney shot him and killed a woman who was in the room +at the same time. "Public opinion is in favour of Stickney, and he will +probably be reprimanded." The evening of the day we reached Leadville, +"Alderman Johnnie M'Combe, a leading candidate for lieutenant-governor +and mayor, and last spring before the people for city treasurer," +shot and wounded, probably fatally, a well-known actor named James +M'Donald, because the latter had taken some children in M'Combe's +buggy for a drive. It is not easy to determine how far Johnnie's chance +of office may be affected by this ebullition, but the newspapers did +not write of it with harshness; one gave it a comic character by the +heading, "Ex-Alderman M'Combe attempts to perforate Jemmy M'Donald's +cranium." In my morning paper of the same date I find that "James Hogan +was foully murdered by James M'Cue in the open streets of Erie this +afternoon in a quarrel about a handkerchief;" that Dr. Flemings, a +prominent citizen of Portland, Ashley County, Arkansas, had appeased +a quarrel between a pedlar named Gillmore and a coloured man very +effectually, for, "incensed by a remark made by the pedlar, the doctor +drew a pistol and shot him dead;" that "a prominent business man of +M'Leansboro' had made a sensation on the streets to-day by hunting +up, pistol in hand, one of the gay Lotharios of Hamilton County;" +that "Daniel Keller, deputy county clerk, was stabbed and killed in +the street of Virginia City by Dennis Hennessy, a kerbstone broker;" +that "a searching party under Captain Leper had overhauled Hamilton, +Myers and Brown, the outlaws who shot Sheriff Davis and Collector +Hatter at Poplar Bluff, Mo.; killed Hamilton, mortally wounded Myers, +and made Brown a prisoner;" that "James Hurd shot Jeff Anderson at +Alamosa, Col., and that it was feared the latter would not survive." +An account of the death of "Curly Bill," a notorious desperado, leader +of cowboys and murderer of Marshal White, who was killed at Caleyville, +Arizona, by his comrade, Jem Wallace, followed. They had a quarrel (of +course, in a saloon). After a few drinks "Curly Bill" said, "I guess +I will kill you on general principles." Wallace stepped out of the +saloon and immediately opened fire, inflicting a mortal wound on his +foe. After a brief hearing Wallace was discharged, and left for parts +unknown. Then it was related how "Thomas Clarey ('Tommy the Kid'), a +Durango outlaw, was killed by a comrade named Eskridge at Annego while +drunk." A fratricide and three trials for murder were duly recorded. +Another paper gave an account of South-West Colorado from the lips +of a recent visitor to San Juan County. "Are you going back to San +Juan? No, I think not; but it is a glorious country. The men there +are a little rough, and kill each other on slight provocation; but a +peaceable man who does not swagger and blow is not molested. There is +no law, and courts and constables are unknown." He narrates how Aleck +----, acting as a barkeeper, "a noble-hearted, jovial fellow, full of +fun, who looked you square in the eye, owns mines, said to be worth +a million," settled a difficulty; I am inclined to think Mr. Charles +Klunk rather drew on the interviewing reporter of the _Globe Democrat_. +He was, he said, going to see a stockman who lived about fifty miles +from the house where he was visiting. A farmer said to him "Come and +take a drink with me, and I'll show you the barkeeper who killed the +man you are going to see an hour ago." The stockman had come into +the saloon whilst Aleck was in the back room, and began to abuse him. +Aleck heard him, opened on the man with a revolver, and "shot him full +of holes. Next day I asked him what he was going to do about it, and +he said he had been tried and acquitted, which meant that some of the +leading men had told him that he had done right. There was no trial +about it. When a man kills another out there in a fight they don't +inquire very strictly into the circumstances, but make up their minds +that they can't bring the dead man to life by hanging the killer, so +nothing is done about it. But when a man murders another to rob him, +the vigilants turn out and have no mercy on him. They just fill his +skin with lead and tumble him into a hole like a wolf. After all, +though the bears are plentiful in the spring, you can kill a deer 100 +yards from the house where you like, the streams are alive with trout, +the vegetables and crops splendid." Mr. Charles Klunk's resolution not +to go back to this Happy Valley seems founded on sound constitutional +principles. What I wish to point out is the condition in which the +Central Government and State Governments have permitted many districts +of New Mexico, Colorado, and California to remain. It is plain that +the peculiar conditions under which the sway of the United States has +been extended over the regions of the Far West have rendered it very +difficult to establish the machinery for protecting life and property +and punishing crime; but I do not see that the statesmen at Washington +or the legislators at the State capitals are very much concerned at +the reign of terror which prevails on the borders, or that they seek +to impress on their people any regard for the sacredness of life. In +fact, human life is almost a drug in the market. And I write fully +sensible of the failures of our own and of all European Governments to +repress crime, to prevent violence, and to ensure security to life and +property. I am aware that Ireland and Poland are to the fore, and that +wife-beating and "running kicks" illustrate the brutality of Lancashire +and other districts--that London has its Alsatias, that every European +capital has foul recesses in which the only laws are those of crime. +All the world is busy preparing shoals of emigrants for the United +States. It is only, however, when some savage outbreak affrighting the +propriety of a great city arouses indignation and fear that there is +a clamour for measures of repression. I do not think there is in any +other part of the world, or that there ever has been in any civilised +country, such shootings as have filled the land to which I allude with +bloodshed. It may be said with truth that there never have been and +that there are not any similar conditions in the world. But the absence +of any great abiding movement for the correction and suppression of +violence and lawlessness cannot be so readily accounted for or excused. +There appears to be a sort of admiration for these border ruffians +among portions of the American Press and public. Even a staid paper +like the _Republican_, in an article headed "South-East Missouri: the +Reign of Lawlessness about Ended," on the destruction of the New Madrid +gang, writes of one who was sent to the penitentiary for thirty years +"as a living monument of a bold and brave lot of desperate men who had +started out to make money by robbing their fellow-men. This swift and +stern justice speaks well for this portion of the States, which has had +for a long time more than its full quota of these lawless characters. +Myers and Brown will be hung on the 15th July, and their execution will +be witnessed by thousands of South-East Missourians." The spectacle +of the hanging will not do much good, if it be like the execution at +Colorado Springs, which was advertised as a sort of picnic or pleasure +excursion. One advertisement ran, "After the hanging to-morrow drink +La Salle beer; it will cool your nerves." "Highway robbery here has +about run its course, and the people are determined that lawlessness +in those regions shall no longer go unwhipped of justice." Very good. +But, why not sooner and long ago? "Rhodes was hung by Judge Lynch +when captured at the killing of young Laforge in New Madrid;" but the +gang killed the sheriff and wounded the deputy-sheriff and collector +before the people arose in their majesty to squelch them. A criminal +is invested with a notoriety which, next to popular estimation, is +valued by some men, and it is noted with interest that "Gilbert" (one +pitiless murderer) is a Catholic, and that "Rosengrants" (another +homicide) "inclines towards the Episcopalians." A Leadville doctor +visits one of them to ask for his body. "No, sirree, you can't have +my body; I'll be hanged first!" And the public laugh at the lively +sally, and admire the _sangfroid_ of the wit! In fact, there is a +_tendresse_ for crime in this grim humour. A Texan who would "fill the +skin" of a stranger "with lead" for aspersing Texas would no doubt +heartily enjoy the description of the early population of the Lone +Star State, which I quote from the Texas Press. "In the early days +of the Republic, and even after annexation, many of the white men who +came here had strong sanitary reasons for a change of climate, having +been threatened with throat disease so sudden and dangerous that the +slightest delay in moving to a new and milder climate would have been +fatal, the subjects dying of dislocation of the spinal vertebræ at the +end of a few minutes--and a rope. A great many left Arkansas, Indiana, +and other States in such a hurry that they were obliged to borrow the +horses on which they rode to Texas. They mostly recovered on reaching +Austin, and many invalids began to feel better and consider themselves +out of danger as soon as they crossed the Brancos River. Some who would +not have lived twenty-four hours longer had they not left their homes +reached a green old age in Western Texas, and were never again in risk +of the bronchial affection already referred to by carefully avoiding +the causes which led to their trouble. Some at Austin recovered so +far as to be able to run for office, within a year, though defeated +by a respectable majority, owing to the atmosphere and the popularity +of the other candidate." The most extraordinary fact connected with +the indulgence which is extended to Western excesses is the severity +with which Northern and Eastern writers and publicists deal with +the recklessness of Southerners with regard to life, as if it were a +political question in some way connected with slavery. In an article on +"Colonisation," in the July number of 'The International Review,' there +is an attempt to prove that the prevalence of homicide in the South as +compared with the North has impeded the flow of immigrants, although +slavery has disappeared, and the writer, quoting Mr. Redfield's book +on 'Homicide North and South,' says the terrible "scourge of open +murder, wholly irrespective of political causes more deadly than +disease or yellow fever, because each death is the result of a heinous +crime, seems to be calmly accepted by public opinion as a part of +the unchangeable conditions of social life in the South. In Kentucky +more men are killed in six days than in eight years in Vermont. In a +village of Connecticut a death from homicide has never occurred from +its foundation, while in one graveyard in Owen County, Kentucky, the +majority are murdered men, and in another county forty-two persons +were killed and forty-three wounded in two years." But in the very same +number of the 'International' there is an account of the doings of the +"Vigilance Committee" of San Francisco (where there were no slaves and +where there is immense wealth), which might cause the author of the +paper on "Colonisation" to reflect a little on his theories. Surely in +Arizona, California, &c., where the foreign population is 50 per cent. +of the natives, immigration has not been checked by the prevalence of +homicide? It must not be supposed that there is no "law" in the towns +where these crimes have been committed; in all the cases referred to +the coroner did his office and verdicts were returned, and it will have +been seen that "wretches hang" in due course. We had intended to visit +the State prison at Cañon City on our way to Pueblo from Leadville, +where we were promised an opportunity of seeing "thirty murderers all +in a row," but the delay of the train on the road deprived us of the +means of verifying the statement, and I give it as it was made. It +would seem as if the criminal supply were super-abundant, or that death +on the gallows had no deterrent influence. The chances of escape are, +if not numerous, at least considerable. At Deming, Denver, Leadville, +Tucson, Tombstone, and other cities, the vast mass of the inhabitants +are law-abiding, peaceable, honest, and honourable men, who feel as +much horror at the violence and bloodshed around them as the most +refined lady in any saloon of Boston, Paris, or London, but they appear +to endure these things in the hope that the law will be enforced at +last; now and then they break into vigilance committees and execute +their own decrees, though the judges do not fail to lay it down that +they have been accessories to murder. The great civiliser and police +agent is the railroad. It is affirmed that as the iron way is pushed on +the outlaws and the _personnel_ of outlawry congregate at the terminal +town, but I suspect that there is a fringe of the material left on the +border as it runs. As our party were at dinner in the palace-car one +evening the train pulled up at a station. There was a group of rough +men on the platform, who stared in with all their eyes at the white +tablecloth, set with bright glass and silver, and at the cheerful faces +under the lamps. "How merry they are. I wonder if they know that this +is Dodge City?" exclaimed one of the crowd. I was told by an official +that when they were making a railway in these parts the surveyors, &c., +were much troubled by gangs of gamblers and robbers, who impeded the +work and debauched the men, so after due warning they made a razzia +on the gamblers, shot a lot of them, and the rest "vamosed." There was +not very long ago an actual war in the Grand Cañon Valley between the +Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fé Railway and the Denver and Rio Grande +Railway, in which there was an array of armed forces and fighting on +both sides, and we saw with our own eyes the remains of the breastworks +cast up in the Grand Cañon by the belligerents. The law came in at +last. "One side got at the judge first and gave him $50,000. The +other was quite ready to go beyond that, but the first was too quick, +and the suit went against the company." I was talking to a lawyer +about the length of time which is allowed by the judges to criminals +sentenced to death as a detail of the execution of the law not in +accordance with the general practice of civilised nations, when one +of the company remarked, "They must do it, sir, to please the people. +If we had Judas Iscariot in gaol to-morrow there would be thousands +of petitions to commute his sentence, and thousands of dollars ready +for an appeal to the Supreme Court. Our people don't like prompt +sentence." Nevertheless, sentence and execution are pretty swift when +the desperadoes take the law into their own hands, as we have seen. +The revolver and the "saloon" are the agents and the scene in most of +these murders, and whisky is too often the motive power. In Kansas it +is a criminal offence to sell any intoxicating spirit, or to use it +except on medical certificate. It is said that the law cannot last, but +it surely was a very strong conviction of the evils which were endured +by the community that brought a State Legislature, elected by the +people, to enact that beer, wine, and spirits should be absolutely and +entirely banished from its borders. Lately there was a prosecution by +the State attorney of a man for selling spirits. The case was clearly +proved. The judge charged the jury in the strongest manner against the +defendant. The jury without retiring at once found a verdict of "not +guilty." "Boys," exclaimed the judge, putting his hand on the foreman's +shoulder, "Boys, I'm quite with you." The Kansas case will be, I think, +watched with great interest by the rival parties in England, and it is +certainly worth investigation and attention, for, if all I hear be true +here, a Parliament elected by the people either in advance or in the +rear of their constituents have passed a law which judges condemn, and +juries evade, and public opinion derides. + +From a British, which may be an unintelligent, point of view, there +is a want of logical method in the treatment of the Great Rebellion +question by Americans. There is a general disposition to speak of the +war between the Federal Government and the people of the Confederate +States as an historical fact which has ceased to present burning +controversies and terrible issues to the Republic. But, at the same +time, these controversies are kept alive, and, for the defeated, are +stirred up incessantly by anniversaries and celebrations, natural but, +if it be the object of Americans, as many of them assure us it is, +to let the memory of the past die out like that of a horrid dream, +impolitic. The spirit which animated the Southern States is neither +dead nor sleeping. But there are no end of G. A. P. and G. A. R. +Associations flourishing their banners and waving their sheathed swords +in and out of the newspapers, and it is almost more than Southern +flesh and blood can bear at times to be reminded of the defeats they +sustained, even if they be content to admit that the doctrine of the +sovereignty of States was a delusion, and that the indivisibility of +the Republic was a fundamental principle of the Constitution before it +was conclusively established by force of arms. + +North and South, our good cousins are fond of anniversaries and +speechmakings. I wonder where they get their taste for them from? +Some few veterans dine together on anniversaries of old French war +days, and there is a Balaclava Dinner in the Old Country; but, though +we have a reasonably long list of fighting successes to commemorate, +their anniversaries are mostly left to the almanacks. The other day +the Americans had a celebration of the Battle of Cowpens, wherein the +heroic Morgan gave the diabolical Tarleton the deuce of a whipping. I +wonder if it was worth remembering? But it is better to remember such +things perhaps than Sherman's Raid or Wilderness--or Chickahominy. +There are bitternesses enough remaining--the rivalries and jealousies +of generals are still active and these memories might be left to die +out. + +The great war which so deeply moved the population of the United States +has left many traces in Soldiers' Homes, and men deprived of legs or +arms, or bearing marks of indelible wounds, are to be met with wherever +there is any considerable gathering of people all over the Union. The +clerk at the bar of the hotel, to whom we were talking a moment ago, +was a captain in a regiment of militia, and served with distinction, +having risen to the grade he occupies by conduct and courage during the +war; and if he is known among his friends by the title of "Colonel," +he deserves, probably, the brevet conferred upon him by the authority +of the general public around him. The conductor of the train on the +Pennsylvania Railroad, to whose attention we were so much indebted, was +an ex-officer of volunteers, was engaged at the first battle of Bull +Run, where he was wounded, and in several other actions. And our good +friend the Major, who enabled us to pass many an hour listening to his +admirable rendering of negro minstrelsy, bore in his body a proof of +the dangers he had passed, in the shape of a Confederate bullet, or +it might have been (for I am not quite sure now) a projectile of the +Federal persuasion. And so on. Scarcely a day passed that we did not +meet someone who had been fighting on one side or the other. + +One great change has come over Americans since I was last here, and, +whether it was the ridicule to which they were exposed or to a sense +of their greatness as a nation that it be due, it is to be commended. +Except by a professional interviewer, not one of the party was asked, +"What do you think, sir, of our country?"! + +The welcome which an Englishman who is entitled to admission into +good society receives all over the States, in the best houses, and +from the best men, is as gracious and warm as ever. It seems as if a +reaction against the suspicion, jealousy, and harshness which marred +the political relations of the Republic and Great Britain in times gone +by, moved those who behave with so much courtesy to Englishmen, and +that they seem to say, _sotto voce_, "Come and see how I forget the +wrongs done to the United States by the Ministers of George III. and +his successors! Admit that I can be as magnanimous as I am rich and +cultivated! I am of your house, but I have transplanted all the good +qualities of your race to American soil, and grafted them on the tree +of liberty which towers aloft in all the splendour of Transatlantic +luxuriance above us." + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +THE RED MAN AND HIS DESTINY. + + Captain Pratt--Carlisle Barracks--An Indian Bowman--The Indian + Question--The Pupils' Gossip--The "School News"--Indian + Visitors--The White Mother--The India Office--White and + Red--Quo Quousque?--Indian Title Deeds--The Reservations--The + Indian Agencies--Missionary Efforts--The Red Man and the + Maori. + + +On the 5th of May the party visited Carlisle Fort or Barracks, one of +the ancient military establishments of the Republic, where in the old +times, speaking in an American sense, a considerable force was usually +concentrated to keep watch and ward over the western frontiers, now +extended thousands of miles away to the Pacific. The Barrack, which +is a large quadrangle capable of containing a couple of regiments, is +appropriated by the Government to this great experiment, the systematic +education of the Indians of both sexes, whose families send them to +school for the purpose of learning English and useful arts, mechanical +and other, which may be of advantage to their people. It was, perhaps, +one of the most interesting of the many little excursions which the +Duke of Sutherland and his friends made in the States, and as it was +the only one of the schools which we had an opportunity of seeing I +shall proceed to give a little account of what we witnessed. In the +first place let me express the sense which every one of us entertained +of the real sterling qualities of Captain Pratt who is in charge of +the school, and of the devotion and solicitude for their charges of +those ladies employed in the training establishment. It may be asked +how casual visitors could judge of these things? The discipline, +order, progress, and perfect method visible in every room, and the +intelligence and good understanding between the teachers and the pupils +which could be perceived throughout the establishment, were adequate +proofs, I think, that the praise is well deserved. At the time of our +visit there were something under three hundred pupils, of whom perhaps +two hundred were boys, and these were engaged in their class-rooms, +each section of Indians being arranged according to nationality, if +such a term can be used. But, indeed, the tribes of Indians differed +from each other in personal appearance far more than do the races +which inhabit the European continent. It is true they nearly all have +straight wire-like black hair and eyes set deeply and rather obliquely +in faces which are frequently of the Mongol type. But there is great +diversity in the shape of the head, the angle of the jaw, the formation +of the mouth and nose, the colour (when not tainted or "improved" by +an admixture of European blood, whether Mexican or American or other) +being pretty uniform, a rich bronze, with something of a copper hue, +predominating in the young people. The boys were dressed in a plain +neat uniform of greyish-blue, military tunics and trousers, well shod +and comfortably equipped in all respects. The girls, amongst whom, +perhaps, taste for eccentric finery was not unobservable, wore dresses +less uniform in appearance, generally neat and always clean; but +their foot gear was rather eccentric. The rooms, spacious barrack-like +apartments, well ventilated, were appropriated to the classes according +to age and progress, the boys being separated from the girls. The walls +were hung with maps and furnished with educational coloured prints, and +boards for arithmetical exercises were in each apartment. The desks and +stools were such as would be seen in an ordinary school, and if one had +not looked at the faces of the pupils and been struck by some of the +strange characters on the walls he would have thought himself in the +middle of some ordinary school; save, perhaps, that his ear would have +missed the curious humming noise which marks the industry of idleness +or of legitimate work in similar establishments in Europe. But here +were all these young savages, poring over their books or boring with +their pens, looking up at the visitors scarcely with curiosity and +applying themselves again to their work, or answering questions put +to them with the composure which must be a portion of the Red Man's +nature. + +I cannot recollect how many tribes there were represented at the +Carlisle school; but I was struck by the race-distinctions which could +be observed when Captain Pratt, standing on a raised platform, called +out the names of each tribe. The little batches, in some instances +only one or two, stood up briskly and looked somewhat proudly about, +as much as to say, "We are Sioux (or Apaches, or Ponchas, or Creeks), +not like these other fellows." And the young ladies were, if one might +judge from their expression, quite as proud of their own people as the +boys. But the names these poor children receive are ludicrous. Not +content with calling them by English names, or American, singularly +misapplied, very often, as a name may be, their own Indian nomenclature +is translated into English, so that we heard reading and reciting +beside "Luke Phillips" and "Almarine McKillip" (a Scotch Creek) +"Maggie Stands-looking" and "Reuben Quick-bear." There was something +of sarcasm, I think, in the address of a Creek boy to the visitors. He +said: "The Indian boys had come here to learn something about the use +of the bow and hunting. Their people believed that if boys grew up to +manhood without learning they would be of no use; therefore they had +sent the boys here to get education." Then, after some moral if trite +reflections, the lad said: "You must understand that nearly everything +that was made was made both for the present and the future. This +barracks was not built for Indians, as I do not think the men who built +it ever thought that it would be an Indian school; but things were made +to do good both in the present and in the future." And then quoth he, +looking at his white friends straight in the face: "The education which +we are getting here is not like our own land, but it is something that +cannot be stolen nor bought from us." And the white man did not turn +red at the words! I do not pretend to judge of the actual progress made +in learning, but the very intelligent self-possessed teachers reported +uniformly that they were satisfied. The most useful education, perhaps, +which these Indians receive is in practical mechanics, and a visit to +the workshops attached to the barracks was amply repaid by the sight +of these industrious young fellows hammering and leathering away in +the various departments. They have actually completed waggons of a most +satisfactory construction, complete in all their parts, so much so that +orders have been received for as many as can be supplied for the use +of Agencies. They make and repair their own shoes. They have sent out +a hundred and twenty double sets of harness. They make coffee-boilers, +cups, pans, pails, and all the articles known to the tin-smith; and the +girls are taught to hem and sew and knit in the English fashion; but it +must have been not many a long year before the white man landed, when +the ancestors of these Indian maidens exercised the same mystery with +fine sinew and skin in the wonderful work of which specimens are handed +down to us to-day. On one point alone, perhaps, there was something to +regret; the health of the children was not all that could be desired. +Well clad, regularly fed, I presume on wholesome food, cleanly lodged +in well-ventilated rooms, these wild children of the plains scarcely +came up to the expectations one would form of them in the matter of +chest-measurement; and although many were remarkable for fine physical +development, Captain Pratt confessed that their sanitary condition was +not everything that could be desired, and that losses from consumption +and other causes were rather serious. But they have plenty of out-door +exercise. They have games in which they rejoice. They drill and +march to the sound of their own band, a very good brass band of eight +performers, each of a different tribe, who played "Hail Columbia!" +and the "Star-Spangled Banner," and the like, with energy and zest; +nay, with harmonious concurrence. When we went out into the large open +square, there appeared before us a wonderful being in feathers, waving +plumes, wampum and all the leathern panoply and peltry adornments of +an Indian, painted, and armed with bow and arrow, probably such an one +as Captain John Smith may have seen as he went exploring the woods +of Virginia on his way to the sacrifice from which he was saved by +Pocahontas. A target was erected at a distance of a hundred yards or +so, and had I been in the centre of it, I should have been perfectly +safe from the arrows which the Indian warrior discharged at it. But +we were told that with a good bow a strong-armed Indian will drive an +arrow right through a buffalo, and in that case I would suppose that +the buffalo was very near to him indeed. + +Of course it is but natural to find very varying degrees of +intelligence amongst the pupils, and the rate of progress was by no +means uniform, but a committee of examination which recently visited +the school declared that the manifestations of advancement in the +rudiments of English education were to them simply surprising. It was +with admiration bordering on amazement they observed the facility and +accuracy with which the children passed through the various exercises, +in reading, geography, arithmetic, and writing, of the schoolroom; +the accurate training and the amount of knowledge displayed were, they +reported, the fullest proof not only of skilful teaching, but of great +aptitude and diligence on the part of the children. Considering the +brief period during which the school had been in operation, and the +fact that the children entered it in a wholly untutored condition, +the evidence was conclusive of the capability of culture. They go on +to say: "We are fully persuaded that improvement equal to that which +we have witnessed in the case of these children of the plains, if +made in equal time by American children, would be regarded as quite +unusual. And when the difficulty of communication consequent upon the +diversities of language is taken into account we can but feel that the +results of which we have been the witnesses to-day justify our judgment +of them as amazing." + +One of the most interesting features connected with the attempts +to educate the Indians at Carlisle is the 'School News,' a little +publication which, as I understand, is conducted by Indian pupils +taught in the establishment, edited by Samuel Townsend, a Pawnee Indian +boy. It is published once a month, and costs 25 cents or 1_s._ per +year. It takes as its motto the lines: + + "A pebble cast into the sea is felt from shore to shore, + A thought from the mind set free will echo on for ever more." + +Perhaps neither the metre nor the actual statement commend themselves +to acceptance, but the matter of the little journal is full of +interest. In the first place the names of the contributors afford +full matter for meditation. Perhaps it is one of the steps which +must be taken to civilise these poor Indians that their names should +undergo a strange and, to me, unmeaning metamorphose. There seems no +reason whatever why the Indian names should not be retained, or if +there is any reason for changing them, at least there might be some +discrimination and good taste exercised in the adoption of English +Christian names. + +The first number of the 'School News,' which I have before me, contains +as an article: "What Michael Burns, an Apache boy, thinks on the Indian +Question." He says, "I cannot help myself, having much feeling for my +people, what has been said about them, and the efforts making to give +us the same privileges as the people of the United States. And it is +said how we have been treated by the bad white man, for the last ten +or fifteen years, decreasing our number. But that kind for treatment +for my nation will soon stop." The poor boy goes on to say: "There is +no doubt that we are in fault. We had the opinion that we could not +get beaten by any other nation. Now we know for ourselves that we will +have to change.... But how does the white man know which way is the +best to do. Was he born that way? No! Education gives him the light +of knowledge." Then a boy named Marcus Poko writes to his father: "I +want you to try hard and leave the Comanche way, and to find the white +man's way." In the leading article, written, I presume, by Samuel +Townsend, it is said: "Indian ways will never be good any more, it +is all passed, gone away, and the other way is coming up to take the +place. We shall all be glad when we all get into the civilised way of +living, then the Indians will not make so much trouble for the American +people. Some people say 'let the Indians get out of the way. There +is no use in trying to advance them, kill them all they are like the +wild animals deaf and dumb, they never will learn anything. We have +already paid so much money for them they have never become civilised +yet.' But all good people say, 'Oh, yes, give them an education and +plenty of opportunities, and send more teachers among them so they may +come up beside us and live as brothers and live in peace.'" There is a +little paragraph as to language. "There are a great many words in the +English," says the writer, "that the Indians have no word for, so the +white people who make the Indian books have to make new Indian words. +So the Indians have to learn the new Indian words. Now we don't know +much about it, but we believe the Indians can all learn to speak the +same as the whites." Then there is a column about the school news: +"Lizzie McRae, a Creek girl, made a very good corn bread the other +day. We had some of it. It was right good I tell you." "Robert American +Horse is a steady boy. He works in the blacksmith shop very well, and +Mr. Harris never has to tell him but once how to do something." "One +of the teachers had artificial violets on her belt. A Gros Ventre boy +saw them, but did not know what they were, so he got up from his desk +and went close to the teacher. He looked at it and then smelt it. When +he smelt it he said, 'Pooh! rags!'" "Boys, some time ago Captain Pratt +gave us advice about throwing stones at birds. Some of the boys who +understand most English did not listen. We want the birds to come and +stay with us and sing for us, too. Let us remember about this, and +not let Captain Pratt have to say it again." "Last Sunday some of the +large girls had a prayer-meeting in the yard at the back of the girls' +quarters. Nobody told them to do it, but they thought it would be a +good thing." There is a long letter from Lizzie Walton, a Pawnee girl +of thirteen years old, describing a trip to Philadelphia, and I believe +there are very few girls of thirteen years of age in any school who +could write more amusingly or better. The account of a magic lantern by +Ada Bent, a Cheyenne girl, closes the number. + +Letters from the children who are sent out to the farmers are published +in this little periodical, and give a very pleasing picture of the +lives and aptitudes of these Indians. Virginia, of Kiowar, writes from +a farm, asking one of the teachers to pardon her for not having done so +before; but "I have not much time," she says, "I am very busy set the +table and wash dishes make my bed and make pies and cakes and try to +make bread too, and the other things beside.... Sometime I make fire +and bring in wood. Mrs. Borton is very kind lady she has two children +one girl and boy. I love these little children very much." "My dear +Miss H----, I am not bad a girl. I help now a great deal. I pray for +you almost every night, also when I wake up in the morning. I like to +pray very much because I make myself good." And so on in a pleasant +little gossiping way, frequently in very difficult language. There is +an article in the 'School News' of July upon the shooting of President +Garfield: "The man who shot him," says the writer, "we suppose, thought +he would please some of the people in the United States. He thought he +was very smart. If President were to die how would every white man, +black man and the Indian feel? It was not in war when the President +was shot, for our country don't have war any more, but in peace.... +We all feel sorry because the President is suffering. We hope he +will soon recover." It is stated that about a hundred boys and girls +have gone out to work on the farms, and there are some trite remarks +about the advantages of hard work as opposed to the disadvantages of +laziness. "The farmers up country say the Indian boys can bind wheat +first-rate." "Nelly Cook, Sioux, made 36 sheets in one day last week. +Nellie Cary, Apache, made 32, and Ella Moore, Creek, made 30. Boys, do +you think those girls are lazy?" The 'School News' has a reporter, it +would appear, for the paper says that "Our reporter took a walk round +in the shops to see what the boys were doing. In all the shops every +boy was busy. In the carpenter shop there were Jock (Arapahoe), Ralph +(Sioux), Elwood (Iowa), and Joe Gun (Ponca) sawing out window and door +frames. Oscar (Cheyenne) and Michael Burns (Apache) were busy carving +balcony posts; and Lester (Arapahoe) was outside chiselling a beam. +These things are all for our new hospital.... Jesse (Arapahoe) and +Little Elk (Cheyenne) were busy in the gymnasium. The waggons which +Robert American Horse has finished painting are to be sent to Oregon +and Washington Territories." It is sometimes difficult to make out +the meaning of the little prattle which these small people commit to +the uncertain medium of the English tongue; but, on the whole, it is +a most interesting and curious study. In one respect these children +of the forest possess that which civilisation seems rather to dwarf +amongst men of the highest culture and imagination--a certain stately +eloquence and nobility of expression, in which natural images abound, +and allegory and metaphor consort together in excellent and tasteful +union. In a paper called 'Eadle Keatah Toh,' which seems to have been +the precursor of the 'School News,' there is an interesting report +from the Committee on Indian Affairs to the House of Representatives, +submitted by Mr. Pound. The motto of the paper is "God helps those +who help themselves"; but surely it might be better put that God will +help those who seek to do good to the unfortunate Indians, who in +contact with civilisation are rendered utterly helpless, and who in +their attempts to help themselves according to the manner of the race +must meet with nothing but extinction. From time to time there are +notices of deaths. One would like to know who wrote the account of the +"death of John Renville, son of Gabriel Renville, Chief of the Sisseton +Sioux." After noticing the circumstances under which he contracted his +fatal illness--fever, produced by drinking water at a spring on a hot +day on a march to the camp in Perry County, the writer says:--"'Death +loves a shining mark,' the poet sang long ago; and in the passing away +of John Renville from our school we sadly say, how truthfully the poet +sang.... Through all the days of his sickness his large sorrowful eyes +had a far-away wondering look, no pain marred the beauty of his brow, +and his voice as he addressed his sister, who tenderly watched over +him, was like the trumpet warbling of some mournful bird. Our hearts +follow the father in deep sympathy as he bears back the body of his +beautiful boy to the land of the Dakotas for burial." + +The Indian chiefs have a right, which they often exercise, of visiting +these schools as a Board; and there is an account in the Carlisle paper +of the visit of Spotted Tail, Iron Wing, White Thunder, Black Crow, +and Louis Robideau from the Rosebud Agency; Red Cloud, American Horse, +Red Dog, Red Shirt, Little Wound, and Two Strike from the Pine Ridge +Agency; Like the Bear and Medicine Bull from the Lower Brule Agency; +Son of the Star, Poor Wolf, Peter Beauchamp, and John Smith from Fort +Berthold; Two Bears, John Big Head, Grass, Thunder Hawk, and Louis +Primeau from Standing Rock; Charger and Bull Eagle from Cheyenne River; +Brother to All and James Broadhead from Crow Creek; Strike the Ree +and Jumping Thunder from Yankton; Robert Hakewashte and Eli Abraham +from Santee Agency; Mr. Tackett and his wife and daughter; a daughter +of Spotted Tail, and others. The meeting of the children with their +parents is described as being most touching; and sometimes the pupils +were not recognised, so greatly had they altered. As the chiefs seemed +unwilling to speak when called upon to do so, there was silence for a +time till a little girl, who had been about a year and a half at the +school, expressed her desire to speak in so earnest a way that General +Marshall permitted her to do so; and so, speaking in her own dialect, +her words were translated into English and into Sioux. She declared +that she liked the white man's ways and the white man's language. +Indian words, she said, were down on the ground, but the white man's +language was in his head. The chiefs, who listened attentively, seemed +to understand this curious figure of speech, and nodded their approval. +And then she enlarged upon the advantage of what she learned, and +implored the chiefs to send their children to the school, where she +says she is going to try to be God's daughter. Her words seemed to +kindle the fire within the chieftains' breasts, for Like the Bear, a +Sioux, and father of one of the boys at Hampton School, came forward +and addressed the meeting. "There is no greater power in the world," +said he, "than the Great Spirit, and we must listen to Him and do +what He wants us to do. When the men who were sent out by the Great +Father the President asked for my children I gave them up. I see you +are making brains for my children, and you are making eyes for them so +that they can see. That is what I thank the Great Spirit for, and it is +that which will make me strong." Then Robert Hakewashte, a chief from +the Santee Agency, spoke, and said that he wanted schools like that +which he saw here on his own reservation, and Spotted Tail wished for +the same thing. "Since I have learned the words of God," he says, "it +makes no difference to me what is the colour of a man's skin; if he +walks like a man it is the same. I do not believe God likes the white +colour only. God likes red and white, for He made them all." And then +the flood of eloquence was loosened, and an old chief of the Sioux, +nearly blind, verging on ninety years of age, who had come to see his +grandson, said: "I grew up a red man, and the things I see here I never +had a chance to see before. I have heard about the white man's church +and his religion, and I have heard about the holy house. I have looked +into them, and I am very much pleased. But there is only one Great +Spirit we all can worship, and the red men all over the country are +hearing about it. You are teaching the children to worship the Great +Spirit. That is a great thing, and I like it. But you have here two +sons of one father. One is sick. I want you to keep the other." And so +he carried him away. + +The condition of the Red Man who is allowed to exist under the banner +of the Republic is a subject which has attracted the attention of the +best and wisest men in the United States. The treatment of the Indians +is a question of future policy. It is one which must exercise a very +deep and abiding influence on the whole history of an ancient and +interesting people. But it is exceedingly difficult to put in a short +compass its most salient points before those who are unacquainted with +the nature of the problems to be solved. Comparisons are odious, above +all places, in America, when they are not to the advantage of the Great +Republic, and I shall not draw any between the state of the Indian +tribes in Canada and in the States. But it may be fairly admitted that +the Indian Question in Canada is divested of many of the difficulties +which surround it south of the lakes. The people of Canada have far +more land than they know what to do with. They are a sparse population. +They are not impelled to fierce adventures by mining "booms," and they +are altogether less progressive than their American brethren. Shall we +say that they are more charitable, more humane, less greedy of other +men's goods? I do not say so. But at all events it is perfectly true +that the Red Man, although he is dying out under the influence of +whiskey and other influences which need not be particularised, in his +native land, lives in comparative peace and comfort under the British +flag in Canada. He is content with the White Mother. He pursues the +occupations dear to his race as a hunter and as a fisherman. He is a +dealer in peltries, and in such small barter as his needs require. He +is the companion of sportsmen, and he delights, free as mountain air, +to hunt on the hillside and in the prairie in winter over the vast +ranges of snowy fields which in the few short months of spring and +summer teem with flowers, and the frosty lakes which yield fish to his +spear and net. There are few or no railways through his reservations +to vex his repose, no great trains of miners with pick and rifle to +drive away the moose and the buffalo, and hand the native hunter over +to starvation. The Indian gives to the white man all he needs, and aids +him in obtaining from the wide stretch of land over which he roams all +the wealth that it can afford. Practically one part of the Dominion +is handed over to the Red Man and to the half-breeds, for there is an +Indian frontier which as yet has not been much encroached upon by any +large migration of whites. As far as I know, conflicts north of the +Saint Lawrence between Indians and whites are unknown, or have not +been heard of for very many years. South of the great lakes, in the +wonderful land over which is displayed the banner of the stars and +stripes, the fate of the Indian is very different. In the words of Mr. +Carl Schurz, himself an expert in the question, "the history of the +relations of the United States with the Red Man presents in great part +a record of broken treaties, of unjust wars and of cruel spoliation." +That is a sweeping statement, which it would be just as well for +an Englishman not to make, but coming from the mouth of an American +citizen and of a United States Minister with plenty of evidence to back +it, there can be no harm in recording my conviction of its truth. It is +but another indictment against a defect in the form of government which +Americans exalt as the most perfect of human institutions, that the +central government made treaties in good faith with the Indian tribes, +but was unable to enforce their obligations or to maintain their +integrity. There is, as all well-informed people know--well informed, +at least, in reference to American affairs--a commissioner who makes an +annual report to the Secretary of the Interior respecting the Indian +tribes in the various locations over the Union and the Territories. +The last of these reports which I have seen is that of the Acting +Commissioner Mr. Marble, addressed to the Department of the Interior +from the office of Indian Affairs at Washington in the November of +last year. The volume contains the reports of the agents in the Indian +Territory; of the schools for Indian children established in pursuance +of a wise and humane policy, and detailed statistics in relation to the +Indian settlements and reservations, the latter indeed forming by far +the largest portion of the volume of 400 pages. Before I call attention +to the condition of the Indians, and the efforts made to save them from +extinction or from a degradation worse than annihilation, I should like +to direct the attention of those who are interested in the subject +to the view which is beginning to find favour, I believe, among the +most experienced men in the States, that the system of "Reservations" +is founded on a mistake the magnitude of which is demonstrated every +day, and that the only means of saving the Indians from extinction is +their gradual absorption as educated communities in the agricultural +life of the nation, keeping them far as may be from the white man, +but making no other distinction between them and the other citizens +of the United States than such as must be found in the nature of the +Indian race and their degree of culture and civilisation--treating +them, in fact, as communities of Mennonites, Mormons, or Norwegians, +or other nationalities would be treated in the United States. When +the Reservations were first established it was considered impossible +that the migration of the whites would extend to the remote regions of +the west to which the unfortunate survivors of the people with whose +virtues and vices Cooper and other novelists have made us familiar were +gradually and often remorselessly driven. It is a plea which will be +urged in bar of judgment that the doctrine of States Rights prevented +the interference of the United States Government on behalf of the +Indian tribes who were often ruthlessly destroyed. But it will scarcely +be a plea, I think, which humanity in full court would recognise as +valid. _Homo homini lupus._ But to the Red Man as to the Black in many +cases the White Man is worse than any wolf; far more bloodthirsty and +rapacious than any tiger--a Cain of Cains. It was our own kith and kin +who, landing on the shores of the North American continent, encroaching +by degrees upon the tribes and at last encountering their hostility, +spread their sway literally by fire and sword, and rooted out the +Red Man wherever they found him established on land or by sea which +they coveted. We, whose countrymen have worked out the same policy on +the Australian continent and Van Diemen's Land, and who can only be +restrained from its pursuit in New Zealand by the strong arm of the +Home Government, can scarcely afford to take up stones to fling at our +American brethren; and it is not with any purpose of indictment or +accusation that I proceed to make a few remarks on the relations of +the United States Government with the Red Man, and the efforts which +they have been making to compensate the Indians in some measure for the +injustice and persecution dealt out for many a generation. + +As I looked at the men gathered at some of the railroad stations in +the western desert and thought of the Red Men whose fate it is to +meet such representatives of civilisation and Christianity, I could +not but be filled with pity for the unfortunates and with wonder at +"the dispensation" under which they live. The faces are fine and bold +enough, bearded to the cheek or shaved in the American fashion, with +bold staring eyes, which "look square" in your own, with a general +expression "Do you want a fight?" in them--the heads to which they +belong are generally set on muscular bodies. If a gang of these men +think fit to go on to an Indian reservation--the very name is too often +a bitter mockery--who is to stop them? If the Indians try to do so and +one of the white intruders is killed the country-side rings with cries +of "vengeance for the massacre of our brethren," and all the papers are +filled with accounts of "Another Indian Outbreak." + +"The average frontier-man in the States looks," as Mr. Schurz says, +"upon the Indian merely as a nuisance in his way. There are many +whom it would be difficult to convince that it is a crime to kill an +Indian." I will go further and say that there are many, I believe, who +would take great pleasure in killing an Indian whenever they could; +or as one gentleman observed to me, and I believe in his relations +with white men no more just or honourable man or more humane could be +found, "I would sooner kill an Indian than I would a skunk." When I +was in the West, there was a cry raised that the Utes were about to +wage war, and appeals appeared in the local papers for a military force +to march against them. Their leaders were accused of arrogance and of +insolence, and of murderous designs, and the general remark one heard +was, "The Utes must go." I inquired a little into the matter when I got +back, and I found that the Utes were strictly and absolutely, in their +own right, standing upon the titles, which they had derived from the +United States Government, to the lands from which they were required +to move. These lands were wanted. Other lands were pointed out to them, +to which they objected, and then they were informed that they would be +moved by force, and preparations were made to levy war against these +unfortunates, if they resisted deportation from the territory which +had been assigned to them by the Great Father. Had they been Irish +landlords, they could not have been treated worse; but in the West not +one word was raised in favour of their claims. + +The first point which has to be considered is, that the Indian is +obnoxious to the very class of men with whom he is by the necessity +of things most closely brought in contact. The railway has been the +great persecutor of Red Men. It has driven away the game, it has +carried in proximity to their reservations all the enterprise charged +with whiskey, revolver, rifle, and greed, which can be furnished by +the offscourings of the world. In the Far West the miners in advance +throng into the valleys, and break the silence of the mountain-ranges +by the sound of their picks, the cattle-raisers spread out over the +plains, the ploughman settles down on the fertile land. "What," asks +the American philanthropist, and his question is echoed all over the +world by humane and good men, "what is to become of the Indian?" The +hunting-grounds are gradually being pushed farther west and north +until they are bounded by the sea, and by the eternal snow. And if by +any chance it should be found that there is gold or lead, silver or +iron, or copper, or coal in any abundance, even under these unpromising +conditions it will be sought. The buffalo is disappearing fast, faster +than the Indian himself. Deer are becoming scarcer every year. What +is to be left for the Red Man? Pastoral life and agriculture, say +the philanthropists. The substitution, however, is not so easy. The +weakness of the United States Government is the main cause why the +policy of reservations has failed. Let us take the account of it by a +United States Minister. "The Government," says Mr. Schurz, "has tried +to protect the Indians in good faith against encroachments, and has +failed. It has yielded to the pressure exercised upon it by people in +immediate contact with the Indians. When a collision between Indians +and whites once occurred, no matter who was responsible for it, our +military forces were always found on the side of the white against the +savage. How was Government to proclaim that white men should for ever +be excluded from the millions of acres covered by Indian reservations, +and that the national power would be exerted to do so?" Such an +idea the American Minister thinks would be utterly preposterous. The +rough and ready frontier-man would pick quarrels with the Indians; +the speculators would urge him on. Government could not prevent +collisions; the conflict once brought on, Government, in spite of its +good intentions and sense of justice, would find itself employing its +forces to hunt down the Indian. The old story would be repeated, as it +will be wherever, says Mr. Schurz, there is a large and valuable Indian +Reservation surrounded by white settlements, "and unjust, disgraceful +as it is, that is an inevitable result." Such being the case then, +the United States Government being powerless to see that right shall +be done, and it being at once a human and a Christian duty to avert, +if possible, the extinction of the original possessors of this grand +continent, let us see what can be done to carry out the object. Fit the +Indians, it is said, for the habits and occupations of civilised life; +give them individual possession of land as property, a fee-simple title +to the fields they cultivate, guarded by an absolute prohibition of +sale--because it has been found that whenever the Indians are exposed +to the temptation of artful traders, they will be cajoled out of the +titles they have to their land--and you will save the remnants from +utter destruction. I hope it will be so. I could not but feel a glow +of enthusiasm when I heard the Attorney-General, Mr. MacVeagh, at +Washington, speaking incidentally one day about some railway matter, +declare that he would not sanction the making of a line of railway +through Indian Territory until he was satisfied that the Indians +actually understood the conditions which had been offered to them by +the company. "I will," said Mr. MacVeagh, "send down government agents +there to ascertain that the Indians thoroughly understand what they +are doing, and that it is of their own free will and consent that the +railway passes through their territory in exchange for the money and +goods they receive for the concession." Excellent and just minister! +But, alas! I believe that ere I left the United States the whole thing +was done; the railway company had declared that they would, whether +or no, make their line, and if an Indian touched a hair of the head of +any white man, the United States Government would not be able to avert +the Divine wrath of every white man on the border from the whole of +the tribe. Well may Mr. Schurz say that the thought of exterminating a +race once the only occupants of the soil, where so many millions of our +own people have flourished, must be revolting to every American who is +not devoid of all sentiments of justice and humanity. Extermination or +civilisation is the alternative offered to the Indian. Now let us see +how it is proposed to civilise them. According to the returns in the +Report for 1880, the number of Indians in the United States, exclusive +of those in Alaska, is 256,127. Of these, 138,642 are described as +wearing citizen's dress. It will be observed that there is no estimate +given of the Indians who do not wear citizen's dress under this head. +Citizens must be sometimes very badly dressed indeed if the Indians I +saw at various stations along the line to San Francisco in shocking +bad hats and tattered clothes were to be included amongst those who +figured under this description in the report of the Commissioner. About +17,000 houses are reported as occupied. There are 224 schools, attended +by 6000 scholars for a month or more during the year, scattered over +the continent. About 34,550 Indians could read. There were 154 church +buildings and 74 missionaries. The number of children of school age was +34,541; but this was an under estimate. Of these there was only school +accommodation for 9972. The total amount expended for education during +the year by the United States Government was $249,299; by the State of +New York, $15,863; by the State of Pennsylvania, $325; by other States, +nothing; by religious societies, $46,933; by tribal funds, $7481. +22,048 Indian families were engaged in cultivating farms or small +patches of ground; 33,125 male Indians were labouring in civilised +pursuits; and 358 Indian apprentices had been pursuing trades during +the year. This census and these statistics are stated to be imperfect, +and it would require a close examination of the returns to enable an +inquirer to form any idea as to the progress made in the direction +which we are told is the alternative of destruction. + +The Reservations of the various Indian tribes are scattered irregularly +over the United States; from Michigan, Wisconsin, and Minnesota on +the north and north-west, away to the Territories on the other side +of the Rocky Mountains, down to New Mexico and Arizona, there being +none in the southern states bordering the Atlantic. But there are +Red Men of different tribes located, as the Americans would say, in +the States to the east, such as New York. The Reservations are of +irregular size and extent. Isabella, in the State of Maine, reserved +for 848 Indians, lies to the east of 86° longitude, and south of 44° +latitude. There is a considerable group of Reservations on the western +shore of Lake Michigan in Wisconsin, and in Minnesota. But the proper +Indian territory lies west of Arkansas, with the Red River on the +south, New Mexico on the west, and Kansas on the north; and in it are +concentrated the Cherokees, Choctaws, Chicasaws, Comanches, Cheyennes, +and several other tribes. The Navajo Reservation in New Mexico and +Arizona ranks perhaps next in size, extending northwards into Colorado, +where the Utes have got a large tract of land assigned to them upon +what appears now to be very doubtful or vanishing tenure. These, and +numerous reservations, which it would be tedious to enumerate, are +under the charge of agents appointed by the Government at Washington, +as to whose functions and personal character and attainments one +hears very surprising and contradictory reports. But I confess, from +a perusal of the documents which they have furnished to the head of +the Department, and which are published in the Annual Report, there +seems to me no just ground for imputing to these gentlemen want of +zeal, knowledge, interest, or intelligence. Those who detest the whole +work of saving the Red Man are very apt to impute to the Indian agents +not only corrupt practices in relation to the sale of government +stores and supplies destined for the use of those under their charge, +but illicit traffic in spirits, which is ruinous to the Red Man, and +even some participation in the acts of violence which have frequently +led to Indian troubles. It all depends upon the manner in which your +informant in the States regards the Indian Question whether the agents +are described as scoundrels whom no man could trust, or as gentlemen of +high propriety and general excellence. + +The necessities which have been imposed by advancing civilisation +of providing Indians with food entail a heavy outlay upon the United +States Government, which is much begrudged by large sections of members +of Congress, although they do not see their way clearly to withhold +supplies of food from the unfortunate people whose hunting-grounds have +been occupied, and who have not yet learned the arts of agriculture, +so as to be able to supply themselves with food. The transportation of +stores, the cost of beef, corn, coffee, bread, tobacco, tea; in fact, +all kinds of food, woollen goods, clothing, boots, hats, groceries, +waggons, tools, hardware, and medical supplies,--all these duly figure +in the estimates of the Indian Commissioner to a very considerable +amount, and the returns as yet do not present any large reduction on +the annual charge; although nearly all the agents speak in terms of +great hopefulness of the extraordinary advance which has been made in +their agencies in the cultivation of the soil. + +One remarkable division of the agencies has reference to their +appropriation to religious denominations. An Indian might well +be puzzled as to his form of belief if he were passed through the +various agencies, attending at each a religious service or two, and +listening to the teaching of the various divines attached to them. The +Society of Friends have control of the belief and religious teaching +of the Sante and Nemaja Indians in Nebraska, and of the Pawnees in +the Indian Territory; to the Methodists are assigned three tribes in +California, three tribes in Washington Territory, two in Oregon, three +in Montana, two in Idaho, and one in Michigan. The Nevada Cherokees, +Creeks, Choctaws, Chicasaws, and Seminoles are handed over to the +Baptists. The Presbyterians have charge of the Nezpercès in Idaho, +Umtas in Utah; the Apaches, Pueblos, and two other tribes in New +Mexico. The Congregational Church exercises its religious offices +among the tribes in Wisconsin, among two tribes in Dacotah, and one +in Washington Territory. The Reformed Church has its work cut out for +it in Arizona amongst four tribes. The Protestant Episcopal Church +exercises its jurisdiction over one tribe in Minnesota, six tribes in +Dacotah, one in Indian Territory, and one in Wyoming. The Unitarians +have apparently only one tribe in teaching, the Los Pinos in Colorado. +The United Presbyterians have one tribe in Oregon; the Christian Union +has another in Oregon; the Evangelical Lutheran has charge of the +Southern Utes in Colorado; and lastly, the Roman Catholic Church has +two tribes in Washington Territory, two in Oregon, one in Montana, +and two in Dacotah. As a general rule, the reports of the missionaries +themselves are more sanguine, as they are wont to be, than are those +of disinterested, perhaps unprejudiced, observers of their work. But, +as is natural, the actual progress made depends very much, not only +upon the nature of the tribe among whom the work is carried on, but +on the character of the missionary, and on his ability and energy. In +some instances, I see the condition of a tribe is reported as being +lamentable, from a religious point of view, whilst in a neighbouring +reservation, it is stated that great progress has been made in the +establishment of religious teaching and ideas. The Rosebud Agency is +said to prosper in the hands of one reverend gentlemen; the fathers of +St. Ignatius are described as doing good work amongst the Flatheads; +the Pawnees are left without any missionaries at all, and, says +the government report, "are probably better off without them." And +depreciatory remarks are slightingly introduced concerning the work at +other agencies. On the Devil's Lake Agency, the majority of the adults +shun the missionaries as they would the gentleman who may be supposed +to own the lake by the sides of which they are encamped. The Jesuit +fathers and the Catholic sisters are described as working generally +with zeal and success, whilst one agency assigned to the Methodists +is said to have no religious agency at all. It is to the success of +the attempts made to educate the Indians at the public establishments +that the philanthropist and humanitarian must look with the most +hopefulness. + +All the reports of the teachers and visitors of these schools coincide +in one point, that the young Indian is most teachable, and that in +respect of acquiring knowledge he is, if anything, the superior of the +white, who seems to enjoy no hereditary excellence in his capacity for +acquiring knowledge. The Bill to which the Report was an introduction +may be considered indeed as the Magna Charta of the Indian tribes +if it be followed up by judicious treatment, and careful management +of and consideration for the rights conferred upon these tribes as +preliminary to their absorption as citizens in the mass of the nation, +when they are fit for such an amalgamation with the white races. The +advance of the United States westwards has left vacant many military +posts and barracks, stranded, as it were, high and dry in the midst of +the torrent of civilisation. Fort Bridger, Wyoming; Carlisle Barracks, +Pennsylvania; Fort Craig, New Mexico; Fort Cummings, in the same +territory, and a number of others, have been named as suitable for +the purpose of educating the Indian children; and it was in pursuance +of the measure recommended to Congress that the various agencies +throughout the Indian Territories were directed to forward children +whom their parents might wish to entrust to the officers of the United +States for education. "Received in the rudest state of savagism," says +the Report, "their progress is already most remarkable." I have already +remarked that the health of the boys is not generally satisfactory. +Their sanitary condition is bad; and it would appear that sometimes in +these long and tedious journeyings from the remote Indian agencies the +poor children suffer much. + +Even at the present moment the Anglo-Saxon appears to be dealing with +the Maori in New Zealand very much as he has dealt with the native in +Tasmania and in Australia. The history of our relations with the New +Zealand chiefs and people is not in a nature to enable us to throw +stones at the Americans with impunity, for the glass house in which +we live can very easily be reached. Some sixteen or seventeen years +ago a rebellion, arising out of the aggressions of the white settlers +on the lands of the Maori, was averted by a Proclamation and by Acts +confiscating a large tract of Tallinassey, which became theoretically +the property of the Crown. Of course the natives had as little to say +to that as the lady who is mentioned in 'Tristram Shandy' had with the +declaration that "she was not related to her own child." But they did +not recognise the occupancy, and whenever a white man settled upon +a portion of the ground they pulled down his fences and removed his +landmarks. The contest is still going on, but no one who is acquainted +with the history of the colony will doubt what the end will be; and +it is coming soon, or it is to come, the moment the colonists are bent +upon taking the land, and when it is desired to do so. + +"It but feebly expresses the judgment formed from what we have observed +to say that we regard the experiment made in this school to educate and +improve Indian children as in every way a very remarkable success." _Si +sic omnes!_ Why does not the United States Government, or if not the +Government, the people, abounding in wealth, full of pious impulses, +humane, charitable, who justly say that the worst use you can make +of an Indian is to hang him; why do not the political economists who +declare that it costs a million of dollars to get rid of an Indian with +gunpowder and lead; why do not the enterprising and wealthy capitalists +who desire to appropriate Indian Reservations all combine to extend the +work of these schools so as to absorb all that remains of the Red Man +in the rising generation amongst the citizens of the great Republic? 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H. G. KINGSTON. With +numerous Illustrations, square crown 8vo, cloth extra, gilt edges, +7_s._ 6_d._; plainer binding, 5_s._ + +_Woolsey (C. D., LL.D.) Introduction to the Study of International Law; +designed as an Aid in Teaching and in Historical Studies._ 5th Edition, +demy 8vo, 18_s._ + +_Words of Wellington: Maxims and Opinions, Sentences and Reflections +of the Great Duke, gathered from his Despatches, Letters, and Speeches_ +(Bayard Series). 2_s._ 6_d._ + +_Wreck of the Grosvenor._ W. CLARK RUSSELL, Author of "John Holdsworth, +Chief Mate," "A Sailor's Sweetheart," &c. 6_s._ Third and Cheaper +Edition. + + + + +FOOTNOTES + + + [A] How Mr. Garrett executed his mission and killed the Kid is + narrated in the account of the desperados of the West, which + forms a separate chapter. + + [B] The day of our departure from the United States, after the + visit of which I have been giving the details, was the date + of a great crime, of which we were then ignorant. About the + very time that we were on our way to the wharf to embark on + board the "_City of Berlin_," the murderer of the President + was accomplishing his purpose. But with all the means and + appliances which exist for the despatch of news, I believe + that the commission of the crime was not known till the + steamer had passed out to sea from the Sand Heads. + + [C] _See also_ Rose Library. + + + + +London: + +SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, & RIVINGTON, + +CROWN BUILDINGS, 188, FLEET STREET, E.C. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Hesperothen; Notes from the West, Vol. +II (of 2), by W. H. Russell + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 44333 *** diff --git a/44333-h/44333-h.htm b/44333-h/44333-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..2896bbd --- /dev/null +++ b/44333-h/44333-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,9429 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> + <head> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8" /> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css" /> + <title> + The Project Gutenberg eBook of Hesperothen, Volume II, by W. H. Russell. + </title> + <link rel="coverpage" href="images/title.jpg" /> + <style type="text/css"> +body { + margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; +} + +h1{ + text-align: center; + clear: both; + margin-top: 6em; +} + +h2 {text-align: center; + clear: both; + margin-top: 4em; + margin-bottom: 1em; + font-size: 1.2em; +} + +p { + margin-top: .75em; + text-align: left; + margin-bottom: .75em; +} + +p.hanging { + margin-left: 1em; + text-indent: -1em; +} +p.country { + margin-top: .2em; + margin-left: 2em; + text-indent: -1em; + margin-bottom: .2em; +} + +p.review { + margin-left: 1em; + font-size: smaller; +} + +.pagenum { + position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: smaller; + text-align: right; + font-style: normal; +} +hr { + width: 33%; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-bottom: 1em; + margin-left: 33%; + margin-right: auto; + clear: both; +} +hr.l05 {width: 5%; + margin-left: 47%;} + +hr.l30 { width: 30%; + margin-left: 35%; } + +hr.l15 { width: 15%; + margin-left: 42%;} + +.center { text-align: center; } + + +.smcap { font-variant: small-caps; } + +.author_list { + margin-left: 20%; + margin-right: 20%; + list-style-type:none; +} +.none { list-style-type: none;} +.footnote { + margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + font-size: 0.9em; +} + +.footnotes { border: dashed 1px; + margin-top: 6em; } +.fntitle { margin-top: 1em;} +.footnote .label { + position: absolute; + right: 84%; + text-align: right; +} + +.fnanchor { + vertical-align: super; + font-size: .8em; + text-decoration: + none; +} + +.poetry-container { text-align: center; } + +.poem { + display: inline-block; + font-size: 95%; + margin-bottom: 1em; + text-align: left; +} + +@media handheld { + .poem { + display: block; + margin-left: 5%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + +} + +.poem p { + margin: 0; + padding-left: 3em; + text-indent: -3em; } + +poem p.o1 { margin-left: -.4em; } +poem p.i1 { margin-left: 1em;} + +.p2 {margin-top: 2em;} +.p4 {margin-top: 4em;} +.p6 {margin-top: 6em;} + +.b20 {font-size:2.0em;} +.b12 {font-size:1.2em;} +.s08 {font-size:.8em;} +.s05 {font-size:.5em;} +.s04 {font-size:.4em;} + +table { + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + empty-cells: show; +} + +.verne {border: 1px solid; + border-collapse: collapse;} + +td {padding-left: 1em; + padding-right: 1em; + padding-top: 1em; + vertical-align: top; +} +.tdc {text-align: center;} +.tdr { text-align: right; } +.cs {text-indent: -1em; + margin-left: 1em;} + +.br {border-right: 1px solid;} +.bt {border-top: 1px solid;} + +.tnbox { + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + margin-bottom: 8em; + margin-top: auto; + text-align: center; + border: 1px solid; + padding: 1em; + color: black; + background-color: #f6f2f2; + width: 25em; +} + +.chapsum{ + font-size: .85em; + margin-left: 1em; + text-align: center; + margin-top: 1.5em; + margin-bottom: 2.5em; +} + + </style> + </head> +<body> +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 44333 ***</div> + +<div class="tnbox"> +<p class="center"><b>Transcriber's Note:</b></p> +<p>Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. +Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation in the original +document have been preserved.</p> + +<p>On <a href="#Fritz">page 26</a> Count Fritz Thumb should possibly be Count FritzThumb.</p> + +<p>On <a href="#Indianopolis">page 120</a>, Indianopolis should possibly be Indianapolis.</p> + +<p>On <a href="#How">page 124</a>, General How should possibly be General Howe.</p> +</div> + +<h1> +HESPEROTHEN;<br /> +<br /> +<span class="s08">NOTES FROM THE WEST:</span><br /> +<br /> + +<span class="s04">A RECORD OF A</span><br /><br /> + +<span class="s05">RAMBLE IN THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA</span><br /> +<span class="s05">IN THE SPRING AND SUMMER OF 1881.</span></h1> + +<p class="center p4"><span class="s08">BY</span><br /> + +W. H. RUSSELL, LL.D.<br /> + +<span class="s05">BARRISTER-AT-LAW.</span></p> + +<p class="center p2"><i>IN TWO VOLUMES.</i></p> + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Vol. II.</span></p> + +<p class="center p4">LONDON:<br /> +SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, & RIVINGTON,<br /> +<span class="s08">CROWN BUILDINGS, 188 FLEET STREET.</span><br /> +1882.</p> + +<p class="center s05">[<i>All rights reserved.</i>]</p> + +<p class="center p6 s08"> +LONDON:<br /> +PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED,<br /> +STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING CROSS.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_iii" id="Page_iii">iii</a></span></p> + +<h2>CONTENTS OF VOL. II.</h2> +<hr class="l05" /> +<table summary="Table of Contents"> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="tdc">CHAPTER I.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="tdc">ARIZONA.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="cs">Deming—The Mirage—Ruined Cities—American Explorers—Self-Tormentors—Animals +and Plants—Yuma—California—Los +Angeles—Santa Monica—The Pacific</td> +<td class="tdr">Page <a href="#Page_1">1</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="tdc">CHAPTER II.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="tdc">THE YOSEMITE VALLEY.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="cs">A new Land of Goshen—A Jehu indeed—The Drive to Clarke's—A +Mountain Hostelry—Grizzlies—Fascination Point—The +Merced—Yosemite Fall—A Salute—Mountain Airs—The Mirror +Lake—"See that Rattle?"—A Philosophic Barber</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_19">19</a></td> + +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="tdc">CHAPTER III.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="tdc">SAN FRANCISCO.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="cs">The Palace Hotel—General McDowell—Palo-Alto—The "Hoodlums"—The +real Sir Roger—Exiles in the Far West—The +Chinese Population—For and Against them—The Sand Lot—Fast +Trotters—The Sea-Lions—The Diamond Palace—The +Coloured Population—"Eastward Ho!"</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_44">44</a></td> + +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="tdc">CHAPTER IV.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="tdc">CALIFORNIA TO COLORADO.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="cs">Los Angeles—Mud-geysers—"Billy the Kid"—General Fremont—Manitou, +the Garden of the Gods—Desperadoes—Bob Ingersoll—Denver +City—Leadville—Grand Cañon</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_73">73</a> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_iv" id="Page_iv">iv</a></span></td> + +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="tdc">CHAPTER V.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="tdc">KANSAS TO ST. LOUIS.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="cs">Liquor Law—Kansas Academy of Science—An Incident of Travel—A +Parting Symposium—Life in the Cars—St. Louis to New +York</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_107">107</a></td> + +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="tdc">CHAPTER VI.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="tdc">NEW YORK—NEWPORT—DEPARTURE.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="cs">Coney Island—Newport—Bass-fishing—Habit of Spitting—Brighton +Beach—Newport Coaching—Extra Ecclesiam—Victories +of American Horses—Newport Avenues—Return to +New York—Our Last Day in America</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_122">122</a></td> + +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="tdc">CHAPTER VII.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="tdc">RETURN TO EUROPE.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="cs">The "<i>City of Berlin</i>"—The Inman Line—The Service at Roche's +Point—Queenstown Discomforts—A sorry Welcome Home</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_140">140</a></td> + +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="tdc">CHAPTER VIII.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="tdc">SOME GENERAL REFLECTIONS.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="cs">Education—Free Schools—Influence of Money in Politics—Corruption +in Public Life—Crime on the Western Borders—The +Great Rebellion—Anniversaries—Great Courtesy to Strangers—Manners +and Customs</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_151">151</a></td> + +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="tdc">CHAPTER IX.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="tdc">THE RED MAN AND HIS DESTINY.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="cs">Captain Pratt—Carlisle Barracks—An Indian Bowman—The +Indian Question—The Pupils' Gossip—The "School News"—Indian +Visitors—The White Mother—The India Office—White +and Red—Quo Quousque?—Indian Title Deeds—The Reservations—The +Indian Agencies—Missionary Efforts—The Red +Man and the Maori</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_186">186</a></td> +</tr> +</table> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">1</a></span></p> + +<p class="center b20 p6">HESPEROTHEN.</p> + +<h2>CHAPTER I.<br /> + +ARIZONA.</h2> + +<p class="chapsum"> +Deming—The Mirage—Ruined Cities—American Explorers—Self-Tormentors—Animals +and Plants—Yuma—California—Los +Angeles—Santa Monica—The Pacific. +</p> + +<p><i>May 30th.</i>—At an hour as to which controversy +might arise, owing to the changes of time to which we +have been subjected, the train, which had pulled up but +seldom during the night, stopped at Deming Junction, +where the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fé Railroad +"connects" with the Southern Pacific, on which our +cars were to be "hauled" to San Francisco. Jefferson +time and San Francisco time differ two hours, so at one +end of the station we scored 6 <span class="s08">A.M.</span>, and at the other +8 <span class="s08">A.M.</span> The sooner one gets away from Deming in any +direction the better. A year ago—as is usually the +case hereabouts—there was not a trace of a town on +the dry ugly plain covered with prickly acacias and +"Spanish bayonets"; now Deming flourishes in gaming +and drinking saloons, express offices, and all the horrors +of "enterprise" in the West. The look-out revealed +a few tents, wooden shanties, a station, at which workmen +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">2</a></span> +were running up a frame-house, ground littered +with preserved provision tins, broken crockery, adobes +and refuse of all sorts. At the door of one hut, +swarming with flies, swung half a carcase of beef; two +women were washing, pale-faced, but not uncheerful +creatures, who had not a good opinion of Deming and +its population. "They carry out a dead man a day, or +used to," said one informant. The lady washerwomen +did not quite corroborate the figure; but, remarked the +chattier of the two, "there was a considerable shewtin' +about last night!" To the observation of one of the +party that he was "going to have a look about," the +other lady made reply, "I guess if you dew it will be +'hands up' for ten cents with you." On the platform +was a United States marshal, with a revolver stuck in +his belt, but his duties were considered to be punitive +rather than preventive. Here Mr. Chase and Mr. +Hawley left us to return to Topeka. At the abschiednehmen +Sir H. Green was affected by a proof of +interest in his welfare of a touching character and +very full of local colour; one of our friends beckoned +to him, took him aside, and pulling out a revolver +("It is hands up!" thought Sir Henry), fully loaded, +pressed it on his acceptance in the kindest manner as a +useful <i>compagnon de voyage</i>. As we were not to stay +at Deming, the self-sacrifice was not consummated.</p> + +<p>The regular train having come up, our special was +tacked on to it, and in an hour the locomotive puffed +out of the depot, and sped westerly on its way at the +rate of twenty miles an hour, across a plain some +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">3</a></span> +fifteen miles broad, bordered by jagged, irregular +mountain ranges north and south, as dry as a bone—so +dry that water for the engine has to be brought +to the stations in tanks. A scanty growth of what +looked like camel grass, interspersed euphorbias and +cactuses of great height, was all that met the eye. +We are approaching the great basin of Arizona, and +are warned that much dust and great heat must be +expected, and that the "scenery" does not improve in +point of variety or verdure, both of which are nearly at +zero. A vigorous, well-directed campaign against the +flies in the saloon gave us comparative repose; then the +blinds being pulled down, and the thermometer reduced +to 83 deg., society settled itself to study, with results +indicated presently by a gentle <i>susurrus</i> on the sofas. +A sudden alarm, "Look at the deer!" There sure +enough was a herd of antelopes flying over the scrub +towards the horizon, which flickered about in the heat +in a mirage of islands and uplifted mountain ends—so +vanished.</p> + +<p>After passing Lordsburgh, a desolate spot in the +desert, there appeared a beautiful mirage. The sand +became a sheet of water, waveless and mirror-like, and +in it we saw reflected in trenchant outline the mountain +range beyond. "It must be water! it is water!" +exclaimed an unbelieving director. And, lo! as he +spoke the "dust devils" rose and danced along the +face of the sea; in another minute the vision was gone; +the dazzling sand, white, blank and dull, mocked our +senses. This was near Stein's Pass, up which the train +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">4</a></span> +of nine carriages was climbing—"the heaviest train +that has gone over yet," said the triumphant conductor. +"But we thought we'd try it." Each waggon weighed +30 tons. The Pass is three miles long, and we were +working at a grade of 74 feet with a 19-inch cylinder +engine.</p> + +<p>Between Pyramid Station and San Simon (<i>stant +nomina umbrarum</i>—the names of mere shadows of +stations) the western border of New Mexico is crossed, +and we enter the great Territory of Arizona, which lies +between the Rocky Mountains and the Sierra Nevada.</p> + +<p>It is bounded by New Mexico on the east, by Mexico +on the south, by Utah and Nevada on the north and +north-west, and by California in continuation of the +western boundary. It is as large as New York, +Pennsylvania, Maryland, New Jersey, and Delaware +together. Whom it belonged to first, so far as occupation +constitutes possession, I know not; but the +Spaniards owned and neglected it for more than three +centuries before the Americans possessed it. In 1848 +and 1853 the regions now forming Arizona, New +Mexico, Colorado, Utah, and Nevada were ceded by +the descendants of the Spanish conquerors to the +conquering Anglo-American. It would need weeks of +assiduous travel to explore the portion of Arizona +where the most interesting ruins in America, the +cities of the Zoltecs or the Aztecs—for the experts +differ respecting their origin—are to be found. The +weight of authority and of recent investigation leads +one to believe that the Aztecs were not the builders +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">5</a></span> +of these ruined cities. Humboldt, indeed, believed +that they were; but, as Mr. Hinton remarks, in +his capital little handbook, which I recommend to +prospectors, emigrants, tourists, and travellers, "to +suppose such an utter abandonment of settled habitations, +it will be necessary to suppose some strange +impelling reasons, either in climate or other causes, +that must have amounted to a catastrophe. An +hypothesis which would leave a whole race able to +conquer an empire, and to preserve power enough to +abandon without destruction their old homes, implies +conditions and forces without a known historical +parallel." The conclusion that many native cities were +flourishing when the Spaniards arrived in America +may, perhaps, be questioned. There is a distinctive +character about them, differing from that of the +Mississippi mounds, the Central American pyramids, or +the ruined cities of Yucatan.</p> + +<p>The site of one of these cities was pointed out to us +from the train, and that was all we saw of them. +But I heard so much about the mysterious remains +that I was induced to procure Mr. Bancroft's remarkable +essay on the native races of the Pacific +Coast. Mr. Bancroft believes that the Pueblos and +other Indians, in a state of civilisation which they +subsequently lost, were the earliest inhabitants of these +countries and the builders of the cities; that the +Apaches came down upon them, and their work being +then aided by the Spaniards, this original agricultural +people were swept off the face of the earth. But +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">6</a></span> +where the Apaches came from the American ethnologists +have not, I believe, determined. For hundreds +of miles these ruins cover the country—stone houses, +ancient watch-towers, and adobe buildings, around +which are quantities of stone implements, masses of +crockery and pottery. In some places there are structures +of wood and stone, without iron, the masonry +consisting of thin plates of sandstone dressed on the +edges, and laid in coarse mortar nearly as hard as +the stone itself.</p> + +<p>The explorers who have discovered the most interesting +cities in Arizona and elsewhere were officers +of the United States army. They have been the true +pioneers of American civilisation in the West, and +it is most creditable to them that they have been +able to furnish so much scientific and antiquarian +observation in the execution of their arduous and often +painful duty in Indian warfare. There is no cold +shade cast upon the labours of officers who desire to +make a little reputation for themselves by contributions +to scientific publications, and by papers on natural +history and the like in periodical publications or in +the daily press.</p> + +<p>There is, as might be expected from its position, +a very high temperature in Arizona. This lasts +from the middle of June to the first of October. +During the best part of summer exertion of any kind +is impossible. Metal objects cannot be handled without +producing blisters; rain scarcely ever falls; and, +to keep up the drain of constant evaporation, a +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">7</a></span> +man must drink a gallon or two gallons of water a +day. Mr. Ross Brown, speaking of the summer, declares +that "everything dries. Waggons dry; men +dry; chickens dry. There is no juice left in anything, +living or dead, by the close of summer. Officers +and soldiers creak as they walk; chickens hatched at +the season come out of the shell ready cooked. Bacon +is eaten with a spoon, and butter must stand in the +sun an hour before the flies become dry enough for use. +The Indians sit in the river with fresh mud on their +heads, and, by dint of constant dipping and sprinkling, +manage to keep from roasting, though they usually +come out parboiled." But, although it is recorded +that a party encamped on a narrow cañon where +the temperature was 120 degrees, there was no sunstroke. +And in that respect the climate differs from +that on the eastern coast, where, especially this very +summer, a great number of deaths were caused by +<i>coup de soleil</i>. People, with the thermometer marking +94 degrees, talk of its being agreeably cold. An exceedingly +interesting fact, if it be one, connected +with residence in this part of the world is the wholesome +effect of complete abstinence. Death from want +of water was by no means infrequent in the old days +before so many wells were dug; but it only occurs +when there is a good deal of humidity in the air. +Although alcoholic drinks and tobacco have an injurious +effect, there is a large consumption of both at +all the stations and at the mines.</p> + +<p>As in the Orange River Free State, where probably +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">8</a></span> +the conditions of temperature are not very dissimilar, +pulmonary complaints are cured, so a residence in +Arizona, it is said, stops consumption; and there +are authentic statements that people who arrived in +a rapid decline have experienced almost immediate +relief of the principal symptoms, and have been finally +cured. Governor Safford, in an official letter, states +that his lungs were a good deal diseased, and that he +was suffering with a severe cough when he reached +Arizona, and that in six months his cough left him. +He is satisfied the warm, dry atmosphere acted like a +healing balm to diseased lungs, and that, the pores +being kept open, the impurities which attack weak +organs escape through the skin. Dr. Loryea, of San +Francisco, and Dr. Sawyer aver that Arizona is +nature's Turkish bath, and that Yuma, that evil-looking +place, contains the fountains of health.</p> + +<p>Of such vast regions a small acquaintance acquired +by passing rapidly twice over a line of railway does +not entitle one to speak; but, if what we read and +heard of Arizona be true, there is within its limits +enormous mineral and agricultural wealth. There +are carboniferous basins of great extent and richness. +The mountains teem with ore. Silver and gold, copper +pyrites, zinc, and lead are to be found over a great +range, the extent of which is as yet imperfectly +known. There are sulphates of nearly all the metals; +metallic oxides, chlorides, carbonates, nitrates; agates, +amethysts, garnets, and other precious stones. People +there are who believe that the diamond, the emerald, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">9</a></span> +and the ruby will turn up in due time. In fact, if one +were to be guided by the accounts in the papers or the +guide-books, he would think that a sure way of making +an immediate fortune would be to settle down on any +hillside in this favourite land. Nevertheless, what +I saw out of my window gave me reason to suppose +that there was poverty in Arizona as well as in the old +country. Nor did the buildings which I saw by the +way at the sparse stations and infrequent towns give +an idea that the in-dwellers were well-to-do in the +world. The adobe, or burnt brick, which is a common +material in lieu of better, has always a ruinous appearance. +The houses built of it yesterday seem tumbling +to pieces from the influences of old age.</p> + +<p>We take no note of time save by its relation +to constant motion, and to the "programme"—a +Procrustean bed on which we have voluntarily +placed our tortured limbs. Sometimes in the hours +of the night, which could not be called still because +of the incessant pealing, rattling, and thundering of +the train, I thought of the wonderful ways of man +with himself in such affairs as we were now engaged +in. There is a play of Terence which was +a trouble to me in my youth, so long ago that I +remember very little more of it than the dismal and +elongated name; but Mr. "Heautontimorumenos" +never needlessly bound himself up in a programme and +delivered his life over to a time-table! It is likely +enough, seeing what sort of man he was, that he would +have adopted that course had he lived in these days. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">10</a></span> +I admit that programmes are necessary when your +movements regulate, or have to be regulated by, those +of other people; and that was the case in some measure +with us, but the solicitude it occasioned the worthy +and valued friends, whose brows I perceived becoming +more puckered, and whose faces and spirits were heavy +with cares connected with the programme, to come up +to time, was beyond belief, and I vowed if ever I had my +own way with the ordering of a party I would have no +programme at all. And plot and calculate as you will, +a gale of wind, or a heated axle, or a broken bridge, or +a flood, upsets everything, and your schemes gang aglee +utterly! It was admirable to see how we were working +out the destiny we had made manifest for ourselves +in advance so long ago, but the task was not +easy. What curious sounds, by the way, our train +made at night! One could now and then compose +words to the tune of the wheels, and the regular rhythm +forced one at times to hum the words of a song, of which +the train seemed to hammer out the music. It seemed +so strange to be turning into bed night after night, +and waking up to pass the same life day after day, +like a log of wood carried on by an interminable, +irresistible torrent.</p> + +<p>Provided with books and newspapers, and friends to +converse with, as well as with sights to see, we had, +however, no reason to complain that time hung heavy +on our hands as the train sped on. The books were very +utilitarian, it is true—Reports of Chambers of Commerce, +statistics and papers connected with railway and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">11</a></span> +commercial enterprise and the like. But our directors +took to that literature with avidity, and aided by maps +and tables, copiously furnished to them, seemed bent +on passing with honours in a competitive examination +anent the American railway system. There were +always, close at hand in the cars, competent authorities +to answer questions, or able champions to engage in +controversy, and as I heard all the subtle contentions, +which I did not understand, concerning signalling and +baggage checking, gauges and engines, curves and +gradients, freights and fares, I was set to think what +the field had been in which all the ingenuity and talent +displayed in dealing with such topics were exercised +in pre-railway days. These discussions were mostly +connected with the consideration of profits and percentages, +and that was a neutral ground on which the +combatants manœuvred their facts and figures as in a +natural "<i>schauplatz</i>". There were times when such +investigations ran down like a clock, and no one wound +them up again for a few hours, and then my friends +digested the remains they found on the field of battle +and strengthened themselves for friendly jousting.</p> + +<p>Not very long ago there would have been exceedingly +good sporting in many parts of Arizona. +Grizzly bears, common and black bears; pumas, mountain +sheep, jaguars, ocelots, opossums, panthers, wolves, +and lynxes are largely distributed over the hill ranges. +There are also hares and rabbits and many smaller +animals. Wild turkeys have much diminished of late +years; but there is a variety of birds, some of them +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">12</a></span> +excellent for the spit. The chase, however, is attended +with some danger, unless one is very well booted and +looks out where he treads, as rattle-snakes abound, and +are of exceeding virulence, the black species being +especially deadly. There are horned toads, but these +are harmless.</p> + +<p>For the botanist Arizona is an almost inexhaustible +field of delight. Any one who likes to read of vegetable +wonders, or of an extraordinarily varied flora, +cannot do better than get Dr. Loryea's work, or read +'New Mexico,' by Elias Brevoort. The growth which +struck us most was that of the extraordinary cactus +called the candelabra or Sahuaro. It is worth while +going so far as the railway will take one to see these +plants sticking up on the sides of a rock without a +trace of verdure or moisture, rising to the height of +40 or 50 feet, and throwing out enormous arms at the +most grotesque angles, each varying from the other in +shape, the number of its arms, and in the manner in +which they are disposed. This giant cactus is covered +with prickles, and is of a light green colour. It is +said that in the old days the Apache Indians not unfrequently +made use of them as handy means of torture, +and nailed their victims to a cactus previous to setting +fire to it. The body of the plant is resinous, and it +can be easily converted into a bonfire. Here and +there we saw some with traces of pale yellow flowers. +When these are gone there is a fruit, which makes an +excellent preserve, or can be boiled into sugar. Then +there are prickly pears in great quantities; and there +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">13</a></span> +is a "negro-head cactus," with a round top covered +with sharp spines, which furnished the Mexicans with +fish-hooks. "There is a soul of beauty in things +evil." If a thirsty traveller coming upon one of these +plants kindles a fire around it, the juices of its body +are gradually concentrated into a central cavity, where +they only wait incision to be liberated in the form of +a pleasant drink, half a gallon or more in quantity. +The appliances for getting a drink out of most of +these roots are described at length in various books +of travel; but however useful they may have been at +the time, the activity of the Atchison, Topeka and +Santa Fé Railway will in all probability exempt +travellers in future from any necessity to avail themselves +of these ingenious devices. Trees flourish in +spite of the heat and want of water. As various as +the trees are the human inhabitants, and one of +the greatest marvels connected with them, perhaps, +is the extraordinary variety of dialects amongst people +of the same race, who lived in the same country +long before the white man came to trouble them. +They are decreasing, of course, in numbers; but in +some of the reservations they seem to have arrested +downward progress, and to have taken to some +form of agricultural labour. At present Arizona is +the happy hunting-ground of the unfortunate red +man. There is, I am assured, no disposition on the +part of the whites to intrude upon the reservations of +the various tribes. I did not hear of any one who +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">14</a></span> +had come in from the East to settle with the view of +making his fortune by farming; but miners have +flooded the cañons, and climbed the mountain-tops; +and now they have settled down into a steady way of +life without any big "booms," as the Americans say, but +with prospects of pretty certain returns for their labour.</p> + +<p>All night we travelled on, and when the morning +came, we were still traversing the desert, still passing +through one of the most sterile wastes on the face of +the earth, where, however, by strange contrasts of +nature—or is it strange?—there were in the mountains +and in the ravines rich ores to tempt the cupidity +and enterprize of man. We are continually reminded +of similar wastes in India and in Africa; but no one, +as far as I know, has yet discovered any mineral +wealth in the north-western deserts of our Indian +Empire. And although Captain Burton and others +have fancied they have come across an El Dorado in +Southern Egypt, and Ibrahim Pasha had such faith +in the existence of gold in those regions that he led +forth an expedition to perish there, there is no such +fortune in store for the adventurous miner as awaits +him in Arizona, Colorado, and California.</p> + +<p><i>June 1st.</i>—Everyone who has entered Arizona, or +left it—and let us hope he went back all the better +for his visit—will recollect Yuma for ever.</p> + +<p>Yuma is on the Colorado, which divides California +from Arizona. The muddy waters of the river rush +with immense velocity past the buttresses of the fine +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">15</a></span> +bridge, with a draw for steamers, that spans it. The +town consists apparently of adobe houses, and these not +very regularly built. I could not visit the main street +for lack of time, but the offshoots within eyeshot of us +were not tempting. All we could see from the railway +windows were flat-roofed adobe houses, some squalid +Indians nearly naked, the buildings, with the Stars and +Stripes over them, of the United States post on the left +bank, and a few wooden sheds. It is said to be one of +the hottest places in the world, and certainly looked +dry and dusty. They say that a soldier who died there +and went to an unmentionable place, returned in the +spirit to beg for a blanket, as he felt so cold!</p> + +<p>More happily constituted travellers than most of +us have seen something pleasing in the aspect of the +country roundabout, and have been moved to much admiration +by the various tints of the hills in the distance, +and by the rocks which constitute the near limits of +the valley through which the river passes. In the old +days, when the stage-coaches offered the only means of +travelling through the district, there might have been +a good deal to see along the road; but the rail generally +avoids sights, and where nature is at its best, the +engineer strikes deep down and burrows if he can. +The colours of the hills are bright and varied; the +lava rocks are of many shades, and the sun, piercing +through strata of pure air, illuminates them with +great vividness and force; but after a time the eye +tires of the uniform hues of the landscape. For a few +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">16</a></span> +miles the rail runs close to the river, then plunges +into the most remorseless, cruel waste of sand and +rock, spread out up to the foot of the rugged hills of +the Barnardino Range, I ever beheld—an abomination +of desolation compared with which the Libyan Desert +or the plains of Scinde were the Garden of the Hesperides. +I cannot describe, nor could I at any time hope +to succeed in giving an adequate conception of this +dreadful wilderness. For 107 miles west there is not +a drop of water to be found; the stations are dependent +on the railway for their supplies. But +Nature, as if to take away the reproach of permitting +such a vast blotch on her fair face, kindly threw in +Fata Morgana. We saw with delight widespread +lakes with fairy islands in the midst; placid seas +washing the base of the distant hills. This baked and +dreary expanse extends nearly to San Gorgonio. We +were spared the sandstorms which are so dreadful, +nor did we experience inconvenience from the dust. +The traveller, who has begun to despair of ever +seeing anything greener than giant cacti and the +adamantine vegetation which dispenses with water, +is agreeably surprised as he approaches Los Angeles. +If he be as fortunate as we were in having such friends +as Colonel Baker and his wife to take charge of him, +he will be amply repaid for far greater discomforts +than any he experienced in the Colorado desert. From +Los Angeles there is a railway to Santa Monica, seventeen +miles distant, which belongs to Colonel Baker; +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">17</a></span> +and I would advise every one who can, either to spare +or make the time for a diversion to that most delightful +spot. Judge of the pleasure we felt when, after a +picturesque run through orange groves, vineyards, and +fields of corn and barley, we gazed on the waters of +the Pacific—"θαλαττα! +θαλαττα!" What a glorious +scene! the broad bay lighted by the rays of the declining +sun; the blue waves rolling on in solemn +march, and breaking in long lines of foam on the +dazzling sand, and nearer still the gardens and trees +of the Pacific Biarritz which was about to welcome +us! Our palace-car and its attendant carriages shot +into a siding close to the beach. In a few minutes +"every man Jack" was off to the bathing establishment +to conform to the regulations ere we plunged +into the sea. It is an orthodox bathing-place of the +highest order. The Baths are extensive, and provided +with every convenience and comfort for ladies and invalids; +hot and cold, salt water and fresh, for those +who do not like to trust themselves to the sea. A rope +extended seaward to hold on by was needful, for the +surf was heavy and the undertow strong. The water +was delicious. Generally there is less sea on, and it +is never too hot or too cold for bathing. Next morning +we had another bath in a still rougher Pacific. The +Duke and some of the party were driven about the +country by Colonel and Mrs. Baker, and at 3 <span class="s08">P.M.</span>, to +our sorrow, we left the most lovable little spot of all +we have seen on this continent. Good fortune be in +store for Santa Monica! At Los Angeles, where carriages +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">18</a></span> +were waiting, we drove through the streets and +suburbs, which enabled us to appreciate the reasons +which induced the Spanish founders to give the city its +name. In the evening we continued our journey, +passing in the dark over the feat of engineering called +the Loop. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">19</a></span></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER II.<br /> +THE YOSEMITE VALLEY.</h2> + +<p class="chapsum"> +A new Land of Goshen—A Jehu indeed—The Drive to Clarke's—A +Mountain Hostelry—Grizzlies—Fascination Point—The +Merced—Yosemite Fall—A Salute—Mountain Airs—The Mirror +Lake—"See that Rattle?"—A Philosophic Barber. +</p> + +<p><i>June 2nd.</i>—It is astonishing how soon one gets +accustomed to the rattle and rumble of the rail, and +sleeps all the night through after a time, waking up +only when a train stops at a station, just as a miller is +roused by the cessation of the clock of the mill-wheel. +We keep good hours, and so at 4.30 this morning I +was looking out of the window at a sea of blue mountain +ridges upon the west, which looked like the waves of +the ocean, so varied in the serrated edges was the line +of stony waves which seemed as if they were about to +sweep down over the great stretch of prairie. We +were passing through a new land of Goshen, at least +that was the name which I detected on the station +board, indicating a junction with another line, and early +as was the hour the door of the hospitable restaurant +was open, and gentlemen in front were to be seen +drawing their hands across their lips as if they had +been taking a refresher in the early morning. Close +at hand the country was perfectly flat, covered with +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">20</a></span> +glorious crops nearly ripe for the sickle, and indeed +cut and stacked in some places. Water appeared +abundant; a river flowing west was visible at intervals, +its course marked by a line of trees. Large black +cranes stalked about in the meadow-like fields, and +hares sat up on end to take a look at the train. The +paucity of human beings, except at the rare stations, +was remarkable; only when I say "rare," perhaps I am +scarcely justified, as there were little wooden huts at +intervals perhaps of ten or twelve miles, where a saloon +announced itself, and a possible ticket-office.</p> + +<p>On the east of the plain through which the line runs, +the peaks of the Sierra Nevada were visible, but the +journey was rather monotonous all the same, and we +were glad when our train halted at Madera, about +ninety miles from Goshen, where we were to get out +and start on our expedition to the Yosemite Valley. +Especial arrangements had been made for our conveyance, +but I almost doubt now whether it would not +have been better for us to have taken the ordinary +carriage which leaves Madera every day, except Monday, +for the Yosemite Valley, at 7.45, arriving at Clarke's +or Bruce's in somewhat less than twelve hours, so as +to bring daylight with it to the halting-place; a very +desirable thing, as we soon found out. It was 8 +o'clock before our party started from Madera, in two +Kendal carriages with four horses each. In one was +the Duke, Lady Green, Mr. Stephen, and myself, with +Crockett on the box; in another were Sir Henry +Green, Mr. Wright, Major Anderson, and Mr. Jerome. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">21</a></span> +Our driver was a man with the impossible name of +MacLenathan, a resolute, dry, taciturn man, with a +good face, seamed with the exposure to sun and rain of +many years on the box. But he told us he had deserted +it lately, and had taken to the work of livery stable +keeper, only coming out on this occasion as driver to +do honour to the Duke. As it turned out, it was well +his right and his left hand had not lost their cunning. +The driver of the other carriage was a noted character, +rejoicing in the name of "Buffalo Bill," and later on +we had reason to feel very thankful to him also for the +possession of great pluck and nerve. For some ten or +twelve miles the route, which consists of mere wheel +tracks over the prairie, runs over moderately undulating +land. On the right there is a shoot or <i>flume</i> for +carrying down timber from the upper part of the +mountain ridge fifty miles away. The dust was +troublesome, and the rapid motion of the four horses +scarcely saved us from the roasting sun. The scenery +was not interesting; indeed, the great object of +attraction was the little Californian quail with his +pretty crest, running across through the grass or +jumping up upon a stump to have a look at the +travellers. Stage stables were far apart, but the +speed was fair, and it was astonishing to see the +excellent condition in which the horses were at +the end of their long canter, and what capital steeds +were taken out of the stalls, in which they were +feeding on barley-straw, to be put into the traces. +I think the average length of the stages was about +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">22</a></span> +twelve miles. We lost about an hour at a little +mining village where we halted for dinner, a place +called Coarse Gold, as well as I recollect, consisting +of the usual buildings, a few shanties, the store, the +hotel, far better than might have been expected, and +a sort of wigwam or one-storeyed house, in front of +which were assembled a number of "Digger Indians," +degraded specimens of a degraded tribe. They sat +looking at the new arrivals in the most apathetic +manner, just as they might regard so many flies. +The men were dressed in a compromise of old Indian +attire, leather leggings and deerskin jackets, with +European clothing, caps, bad hats and trousers, and +old boots, the women swathed ungracefully in what +seemed to be pieces of blanket, their legs encased in +folds of dirty cotton. One of these Diggers was +very slightly dressed, and as it is intensely cold in +the winter, we asked him whether he did not feel +the effect of the frost and snow. He knew a little +English, and made the most of it. "When your body +is covered you do not feel the cold," he said; "But +your face is always uncovered, and yet you do not feel +the cold there. An Indian's body is all face." And +that was all the explanation he would vouchsafe +to us. Somehow or another, what with delays at the +stations, possibly caused by our being out of the +regular running, and being an interpolation on the +ordinary course of travel, and possibly owing to our +reduced speed, for the carriages with four horses +did not, it seems, go as fast as the public conveyance +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">23</a></span> +with six, it was getting dark as we approached +the line of wooded hills, in a valley in which, many +miles away, lay our halting-place for the night. The +result of our delay in starting, concerning which +the driver had been severe from time to time, was +startlingly manifest as the coaches mounted the +steep ascents of one of the most tortuous roads in +the world. The spurs of the hills come down very +sharply to the valley, and the road is carried round by a +series of very severe gradients following the contour +of the mountain-chain, so that at one time there is a +deep gorge on your left, and then, as the road leaves +that spur with the valley on that side and crosses to +another spur, there is a great descent on the right, so +that you are continually passing along by a series of +precipices, to which, in our case, the fast gathering +gloom imparted additional horror. Through the +sighing of the wind in the trees aloft came the roar +of the torrents down below. The drivers went along +at a good steady canter, and from time to time, as we +came round a sharp curve, I dare say the thought was +in every one's mind, what would happen if one of the +leaders fell, or if the driver slipped his hand in gathering +up the reins to go round the corner. The scenery +became more wild and formidable, so to speak, at every +fresh turn. The colossal trees, which challenged +admiration in the daytime, closed up in greater volume, +darkening the narrow road completely, so that in an +hour after entering upon the mountain-range it became +as black as pitch. The lamps of Buffalo Bill +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">24</a></span> +in the leading carriage were some guide to our driver. +He had none, and it was with anxiety, renewed every +ten minutes or so, that we saw the lights in front +describe a graceful curve, which showed that they +were passing by one of the dips or cuts of the road. +It needed skill and judgment for MacLenathan to +conduct the carriage, because if he drove too close to +that in front of us, the clouds of dust obscured the +view, and if he dropped too far behind he lost the +benefit of the lights. By enormous trunks of trees, +by piles of timber, through deep cuttings in the rock, +plashing over watercourses, descending swiftly into +river-beds, and splashing through the fords over +boulders, then climbing up steep hillsides, on and +on, it seemed as though the night would never +come to an end, and we inwardly, and audibly too, expressed +our regret that we had not started a little +earlier; but still there was an almost pleasurable +excitement in holding on as we swept round one of +these terrible gorges, and tried to look down into +the gulf beneath. That last stage seemed interminable, +but towards 9 o'clock at night the driver of the +coach in front announced that we were getting "near +at last"; and lucky it was, for his lights were giving +out. "It is just as well that they did not," said our +driver, "because it would be bad for you." "Why?" +"Well," he said, "you would just have to get out +and walk! I would not undertake to drive any one +in the dark along such a road as this." Presently we +heard the noise of rushing water, and gained the bank +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">25</a></span> +of a stream flowing with swiftness over a shingle bed. +This we crossed, and in half an hour more, through +the dark belt of trees in front, lights were discerned, +and, crossing another stream and a bridge, our wearied +horses were pulled up in front of the hotel, a large +wooden building, on the steps of which were the landlord +and his staff, and most of the inmates turned out +to greet and inspect the travellers who had been long +expected. "It is a bad country to go driving about +in the dark," said Mr. Bruce, the landlord, a sentiment +in which we thoroughly agreed. There was a +supper in the common room, to which, albeit the fare +was primitive enough, we did ample justice. Travellers +have complained of the charges along the road, +but, considering the distance which all articles have +to be carried to the Valley, the heavy duties, and the +shortness of the season, I do not think that any one +with experience of Swiss inns would complain much; +and if the traveller desires to drink claret, he must not +be astonished if he pays eight or nine shillings a bottle +for it. The ordinary fare, at hotel prices, is quite +good enough for hungry people, and eggs, milk, and +bread are abundant, and not dear. The bedrooms, +sufficiently simple in all their appointments, are good +enough to be welcome to tired people, for there is +a fair bed to lie upon, and the sheets, as far as our +experience went, were clean and fresh. Nor were the +insect horrors, of which we may have some knowledge +in parts of Europe, to be dreaded, not even +mosquitoes at this time of year. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">26</a></span></p> + +<p>Soon after dawn a thunderstorm broke over the +valley, hail and torrents of rain, and the landlord congratulated +us upon the cooling effect it would have on +the air, and on the absence of dust, which is rather troublesome +at times. It was necessary to make an early +start in the morning, for it is a long journey to the +Yosemite. For some years past the Valley has become a +kind of American Chamouni, and if Americans swarm +over Europe in search of the sublime and beautiful, +they cannot be accused of neglecting altogether their +own country. The first thing I saw, on walking out +on the verandah of the hotel, was the stage-coach and +six horses, with eight ladies and nine gentlemen, +loading up for the Valley. They had arrived late the +night before, a little in advance of us, and yet the +ladies, bravely attired for the road, were all in their +place in the <i>char à bancs</i> long before 7. Travellers +frequently stay at Bruce's, and our host promises +good sport to any one who will make it his headquarters; +but I cannot speak with any confidence on +that point myself; still I should think it a very pleasant +quarter for a man who had nothing else to do, +and who had an aptitude for climbing, to go about +looking out big game. We heard talk of pheasants, +but saw none: the bird which is called by that name +not being entitled to it, according to ornithologists. +In front of the hotel was laid out the skin of +a cinnamon bear, which had been shot by an Austrian +gentleman—"<a name="Fritz" id="Fritz">Count Fritz Thumb</a>," the landlord called +him—a few days previously, and which was to be sent +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">27</a></span> +after him as a trophy of his skill. "But," says +Boniface, "it was not he shot him at all; it was 'is +old Injun hunter." Grizzlies, he said, were rare, but +they were to be found if you went up high enough, +and as he spoke he pointed up to the mountains +towering away in the distance in grand Alpine proportions. +Deer were common enough, and there were +some tame specimens of the ordinary black deer +running about in the enclosure. We had an early +start, but not quite so early as the Americans; and it +was wonderful how well our four hardy horses did +the first stage, six and twenty miles, including some +very sharp ascents from the Hotel.</p> + +<p>From time to time we got out and walked up the +sharp bits, diverging to the right or left to gather the +lovely flowers which grew on the roadside, or halting +to admire the giant trees which clothed the mountain +ridges. Pitiable ignorance! not to know the names of +the plants or shrubs or wonderful bunches of blossoms, +among which fluttered the most magnificently coloured +butterflies. Woodpeckers of many different species +uttered their quaint notes in jerky flight from tree to +tree, or peered at the travellers from the shelter of the +branches. Firs, pines, and spruces of enormous size, +and trees to me unknown, formed a dense forest on +each side of the road; but now and then we caught +glimpses of the stupendous ranges of the alps beyond. +It was lamentable to see the waste and wreck wrought +in this wondrous wealth of timber—reckless, wicked +waste. Charred trunks stood with leafless arms +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">28</a></span> +withered and black, or lay prone among the ferns in +myriads. This was, we were told, the work of shepherds, +who think nothing of setting fire to one of the +finest trees in the world to warm themselves for an +hour, and are delighted with a conflagration which +may lay a hillside in ashes. And the Indians too are +held to have their share in the destruction. There +was enough of timber wasted and destroyed mile after +mile to build a city. The nemesis must come; already +the alarm has been sounded, and the State authorities +here and elsewhere are trying to prevent the mischief. +I have often had occasion to regret my ignorance of +botany <i>inter alia</i>; but never did I feel it more than +when I was walking up the road, on each side of +which was a carpet of flowers, a maze of shrubs and +plants—dense brushwood—to not one of which could +I give a name. We arrived at the Halfway House at +12.35 as much pleased as the horses which brought us +there so well at the respite, for it was an awful "pull +up," and the coachman did his work at high pressure. +In the course of our pilgrimage we had found a very +pleasant <i>divertissement</i>. The Major, Mr. White, and +Mr. Jerome had excellent voices, and from time to time +they burst into song, giving with great effect the +quaint negro melodies, which are now made familiar to +us in London, from a very large <i>répertoire</i>; and so the +afternoon passed in quiet enjoyment as we climbed the +hills on foot or in the carriages—snatches of talk, +exclamations of wonder and delight, and outbursts +of the 'Golden Slipper,' 'O! that 'Possum,' 'The +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">29</a></span> +Ark,' 'John Brown,' 'Tramp, Tramp,' and other +choruses.</p> + +<p>It was near 4 o'clock when the driver, who had been +silent for some time, looking round at us occasionally +as one who would say, "Wait a little till I surprise +you," suddenly pulling up, said, "Now, here you are. +This is Fascination Point! Won't you get down +a bit?" And, lo! there indeed lay before us a scene +of indescribable grandeur. I know nothing like the +effect produced by Yosemite Valley when seen for the +first time from this point. It has a characteristic +which no other similar view I am acquainted with +possesses. You take in at one glance stupendous +mountain-ranges, all but perpendicular, beyond which +you see the snowy crests of the great Sierra, the +profound valley between them, a long vista of extraordinary +magnificence, of cascades and precipitous +waterfalls, and far down below a silvery river rushing +through a forest composed of the noblest trees in the +world, with patches of emerald-green sward and bright +meadows.</p> + +<p>I see that by a slip of the pen I have miscalled the +place from which we got our first view of the wondrous +scene. But I have a right to change the name for my +own use. What the driver said was "Inspiration +Point." I prefer my mistake, for the view inspires +you with no feeling save that of wonder and delight. +These sublime scenes appear to be beyond the reach of +poetry. Niagara and the Yosemite have not yet found +a laureate. The peculiar and unique feature of the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">30</a></span> +valley seems to me to be the height and boldness of +the cliffs which spring out from the mountain-sides +like sentinels to watch and ward over the secrets of +the gorge; next to that is the number and height of +the waterfalls; but it is only by degrees and by comparison +that the mind takes in the fact that the cliffs +are not hundreds, but thousands of feet high—that +these bright, flashing, fleecy cataracts fall for thousands +of feet—that the rent which has been torn in the +heart of the mountains, till it is closed by the awful +granite portals beyond which no mortal may pass, +extends for miles. I thought as I gazed that it were +pity to descend, lest a nearer view might destroy the +effect of that <i>coup d'œil</i>; but the driver had regulated +the period for rapture. He whipped us up to our +places by word of mouth, and the carriages renewed +their course, now striking by bold zigzags down into +the valley for our destination, which was still six +miles away. I shall not attempt to describe my own +feelings, far less can I pretend to tell what others, +probably far more susceptible of the beauty and +grandeur of what we beheld than I am, may have felt +at the succession of the awe-inspiring revelations +of the tremendous grandeur of the Valley which came +upon us. What is the use of rolling off a catalogue of +names and figures?—even the brush of the painter, +charged with the truest colours and guided by the +finest hand and eye, could never do justice—that is, +could never give a just idea of these cliffs and waterfalls. +"El Capitan! Oh, that's the name, is it? +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">31</a></span> +Three thousand three hundred feet high!" And then +you try to take in what that means. "And it's 3500 +feet down to the Valley? Dear me!" "And that is +the Cathedral Rock? And those two peaks are the +Spires? I don't exactly see the resemblance; do +you?"</p> + +<p>There was a sort of wail of delight from us all as we +came on the "Bridal Veil Fall"; and I do not think +any one cared to know that it was just 60 short of +1000 feet high! Surely one of the most graceful, +lovely <i>chutes d'eau</i> on earth, lost though it be from +view behind the rocks at the close of its feathery +flight! But there was no stopping to look at anything; +relentless Fate drove us down and on, till the +wheels rolled more evenly, and at last we came to +the bed of the valley—some 1800 yards broad, opening +out here and there yet wider—and we rejoiced in the +sight of the bright clear water of the Merced, child +of innumerable icy mothers, flashing, sparkling, dashing +and brawling, like a myriad Lodores, between her +banks decked with flowers and covered with forest +trees.</p> + +<p>Suddenly there dashed out of a glade two cavaliers, +and made full tilt at the leading carriage. "To +arms!" Not a bit of it! Nor banditti or Injuns—of +whom we had met one or two riding sullenly along +to the hunting-grounds—no, only two hotel touts +armed with cards of self-commendation, and not apparently +in much rivalry, for when told that we had +engaged our hotel, they galloped off to waylay other +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">32</a></span> +travellers, of whose coming they were apprized by our +driver. Our hotel, I may say by the way, gave us +full contentment. The site was admirable, commanding +a full and near view of <i>the</i> Fall of Falls—the +Yosemite—which had so fascinated our eyes that +we could scarce divert them to any other object—not +"Widow's Tears," or "Virgin's Tears," nor the +"Three Brothers," not anything but the Yosemite! +And so, when our rooms were pointed out, we made +off to the spot where the fine cloudlike vapour +rising above the tree-tops indicated the basin into +which the waters sought rest after their troubled +leap.</p> + +<p>Our way lay through the usual gathering of stores, +hotels, livery stables for the horses and ponies +needed for the excursions, and curiosity dealers' shops, +to the village street, as it may be termed, shadowed +by fine trees, under which reposed some Indians—one +of whom, an Amazon in yellow toga, went riding full +gallop past us, her hair falling in a black mat on her +shoulders, sitting low, in Melton style, regardless of +poultry, children, and boulders, and vanishing in a +cloud of dust under the trees. Then we turned to the +left and crossed the river by a rustic bridge; and as I +looked down into the dancing waters certain shadow-like +objects flew up against the current. "Trout?" +asked I. "Yes, they're trout. They take 'em—when +they dew—five pounds weight. The Injuns catch +'em. We don't understand it as well." A short walk, +with eyes ever up-turned, and we come out to a +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">33</a></span> +moraine, and, clambering up over a mass of trunks of +trees and decaying timber, <i>the</i> Falls were before us—I +cannot write more—no adjective will do. "Two +thousand six hundred and thirty-four feet, mind!" +says the voice. "I don't care," thought we, "it's +the most beautiful and wonderful water-jump ever +seen by human eye." "It only remains," as they +say, to state that there is first, falling over a sheet +of granite straight as a wall, a considerable river, +which in the plunge comes down at once 1600 feet. +There, in a basin of rock, it collects its scattered +forces, under cover of eternal spray and cloud, and +then takes another header of 434 feet to a barrier +of granite, against which it rages for a mad moment, +till it swells over and escapes from control by another +spring of 600 feet sheer down—and now it is free, +and rushes past at our feet, a joyous flashing stream.</p> + +<p>We returned through the meadows from the Falls, +and as I was walking in advance of the party a +snake wriggled across the path, which I struck at +instinctively with my stick, and was lucky enough to +kill at the first blow. I exhibited the carcass, or +whatever a snake's dead body may be, in triumph to +my companions. Further on our way we fell in with +an old Frenchman who was carrying a basket of fruit +from his little garden to the inn. With all the +courtesy of his country, he offered to Lady Green the +choicest in his little <i>corbeille</i>. He came from Lorraine +very long ago to prospect in the States, almost the +earliest of the pioneers, but he was still strong and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">34</a></span> +active, and he pointed with great satisfaction up to +a white flag planted on a dizzy height above, which +he said he had placed with his own hands. The chief +livery stable keeper is a German named Stegman. The +first ascent of the Dome was made by a young Scotchman +named Anderson, from Montrose; so with Indians, +Americans, Mexicans, Europeans, there is a very +liberal representation of the nations of the world, in +the season, in the valley. Mr. Hutchinson, the Conservator +of the Valley—one with all the enthusiasm +of the American character in everything pertaining +to the country, aggravated in this instance by an +intense admiration for the valley over which he is +appointed to watch—joined us at dinner in the little +inn. Full of information, bubbling over with anecdote +and illustration, and replete with all kinds of knowledge +concentrated upon the one object—the Valley—the +Valley—and nothing but the Valley. He knows its +history since the time it was first discovered, and +its natural history and geological formation, and all +about the Indians who lived there and their traditions. +It so happened that the Commissioners of +the State of California, who are bound to visit the +public domains, were also at the hotel, and so we +had quite an unofficial and ceremonious meeting; and +presently, as we stood in front of the hotel gazing +up on the peaks, lighted up by the stars, and +listening to the thunder of the waterfall, a startling +report burst out on the night, and in another instant +the echoes repeated from rock to rock were crashing +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">35</a></span> +through the Valley with the roar of heaven's artillery. +It was the first gun of a salute ordered by the Commissioners +to be fired in honour of the Duke's arrival. +The effect was very fine, but I doubt whether I did not +feel full of resentment at the outburst, very much as +the owls and night-hawks might have been expected to +feel, if one could judge from their cries. However, +even a salute and echoes must come to an end, and +as we were to get up early to start for the Mirror Lake, +we turned in to bed at an early hour; not, however, to +sleep, because the indefatigable and numerous company +in the public room, off which were our bedrooms, were +in high spirits, and the song and the dance, to the +accompaniment of an invalid piano, for some time +asserted their sway.</p> + +<p>Mr. Hutchinson had the Duke out early, because it +is one of the obligations to see the sun rise, reflected +in the Mirror Lake—if you can. There is no fear of +cloud or rain. In the Mirror Lake is reflected—or +was as we saw it—the precipice at the other side of +the Valley, the bulk of Mount Watkins (so called from +a photographer who has been daring and successful in +his renderings of the Yosemite), and all the surrounding +scenery. Once a friend and I saw a cow on its +back in the air, by the shore of a Highland lake. +The surface was smooth as that of the Mirror before +us now. It was flapping its tail from side to side, +and its forelegs were up in the sky. We could not +make it out at first. There was, in fact, a cow +standing near the water of the loch; and what we saw +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">36</a></span> +was a reflection of the animal, actually stronger and +better defined than the object itself. So it was with +the reflections in the Mirror Lake; but when the sun +rose over the cliff and we looked at the water, the +glare was too dazzling. "It was," as Mr. Wright +remarked, "like the electric light." There were +curious optical effects produced, some being troubled +with purple, others with green or yellow in their eyes, +after a vain attempt to look at the reflection, but that +did not last long.</p> + +<p>We returned to breakfast to make an early start for +Union and Glacier Points on ponies. Among the +company at the hotel, introduced by Mr. Hutchinson, +there was a young lady who was well acquainted with +the Valley, and who proved to be a very agreeable +companion in our mountain ride; but it was not long +ere she was candid enough to let it be known that +she did not visit the Yosemite out of love of the picturesque +and beautiful, but that she was interested in +the sale of photographs of the Valley, and was, in +fact, a very persuasive and efficient agent of a firm +in San Francisco, who had thus established an outlying +picket of great activity and vigilance; and I am sure +we all hope she may always be as successful with the +visitors as she was with us. Of what we saw from the +Glacier Point I must leave others to write or speak. +It is reached by a zigzag on the mountain-side—a +peculium of the maker, and all the "trails," as they are +called, in the valley are the property of individuals or +firms who are paid by tariff, and we heard "Eleven +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">37</a></span> +gone up before—Duke Sutherland, Lady Green, Sir +Green, Mr. Wright, Mr. Russell, Mr. Jerome coming! +Sixteen coming up behind!" On the plateau behind +the cliffs, from which you look down on the Valley and +at the snowfields on the mountain ranges opposite, +there is a log house and shanty, and there we had +a mountain meal ere we began the descent.</p> + +<p>Nothing in the way of riding is more disagreeable +than going down a very sharp mountain-side on a +pony not, for all you know, very sure-footed, and so +instead of riding, I resolved to walk, now and then +taking a short cut, to the great discomfiture of feet +and boots, although it is three thousand feet to the +bottom, and make the best of my way and the +most of the road, which is very fair, down the zig zags. +I reached the plain thoroughly hot and tired, +and bathed in perspiration, in fifty-seven minutes. +The horsekeeper, who came down with the rest of +the party, seemed to have been affected by the +rarity of the atmosphere or something else up at the +mountain hostelry, for he insisted on it that I had +ridden down, and demanded his horse. "What the +thunder, Russell, have you done with my horse?" he +asked again and again. Satisfied for the time by my +assurances that I had not ridden at all, he went off, and +then, thinking over the matter, came back again to +repeat his question, till I told him I would not answer +it any more. He was an amusing fellow in his way, +and affable. He called the Duke "Sutherland," now +and then putting Mr. before it. As he was watering +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">38</a></span> +his horses, he said: "Here, Mister Sutherland, lay +hold of the bucket, will you, whilst I take a turn at +this one." And the Duke did so with alacrity. It was +a day of incessant activity. No sooner had the mountain +party come down than they were off again to drive +through the Valley. The rest of our party had already +executed masterly investigations at the foot of all the +waterfalls; admired the Bridal Veil and the Widow's +Tear, as one cascade is satirically termed, "because," +says the guide, "it dries up in six months;" had +driven and ridden everywhere and seen everything, +and we had to do the same; but it would need a week +of conscientious work to exploit the Valley thoroughly. +At half-past 7, the dinner hour, the little inn was +swarming with people; the stage had arrived with +fresh contingents. Every place was full, and what +with the clatter of knives and forks, the clamour of +waiters, the tumult of voices laughing and talking, it +was scarcely possible to conceive that a few short years +ago this valley was in the exclusive possession of the +Indian and the wild beast. There is now, however, a +great conflict of interests, and Mammon is holding his +revels in the Valley. The State has voted a certain +sum of money, twenty-five thousand dollars, I think, to +buy up the interests of the trail-makers; that is, those +who struck out and made paths to the various objects +of attraction; but no success has yet been attained +in the negotiations, and, indeed, I should think it +a very bad investment for most of them to accept +their share of such a sum. Macaulay, for example, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">39</a></span> +who made the path up to the point from which we +descended to-day, must make many hundreds of dollars +in the height of the season, as he charges so much a +visitor, and, besides, has a restaurant where they take +their meals at the top.</p> + +<p>Next day (June 5th) we left the Yosemite with the +satisfactory assurance that we had made the most of +our time, though we could not believe we had done it +justice. There were some small "nuages" on the face +of our "Mirror Lake," caused by changes in the mode +of conveyance; but we found six horses and one of the +coaches of the country were better than four horses +and two carriages of less capacity. Yosemite, I may +tell my readers, means "Grizzly Bear" (it may be +"Great Grizzly Bear"); but we only heard of one +having been thereabouts for a long time, and I believe +it was thoroughly tamed. After a glorious day in +the woods, clambering up the steep from the Valley, +and then on by the road—the only one—to Clarke's, +halted there for the night, when we returned from a +ceremonious visit to the "Big Trees." We had a most +delightful ride from Bruce's, and a hard canter back +through the woods on capital ponies, full of life and +action, and very sure-footed, but rather inclined to +have their own way, which was not always that of the +rider. We turned into bed at Bruce's, quite delighted +with our expedition, and rather anxious to see the +road we had traversed in the dark by the garish light +of day. Every traveller's tale, and every guide-book of +recent date relating to this part of the world, has a full +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">40</a></span> +account of the dimensions, number, appearance, and +condition of these wonders of the world. They are either +prostrate, mutilated, or decaying; not one has survived +the stormy life he must have led for some 3000 years—a +few hundreds more or less do not signify. Those +which remain upright are scarred by fire and lightning, +and drop their monster arms, hung with ragged foliage +and sheets of bright moss, mournfully over the ground +where their trunks will repose in time to come. +I cannot conceive any object of the kind so magnificent +as one of those Washingtonias in the full vigour of +mature treehood; but we could only fancy what it +must have been like by measuring the stems, for there +was not anywhere in the forest a tree to be seen which +had not suffered. The best way to visit the scene—for +it may well be called so—is to strike out from the +road on the way to the Yosemite before the halt at +Bruce's; but the hotel-keepers and stage-drivers will +persuade the stranger, if they can, to defer the +excursion till his return from the Valley, so as to make +a half-day more out of him.</p> + +<p><i>June 6th.</i>—All up at 5 o'clock, and off soon after +6 <span class="s08">A.M.</span> The first stage, eleven miles, we did in two +hours and ten minutes—a very pretty road; the +second stage, eight miles, in forty-four minutes. The +ravages made by fires are most deplorable. We had +passed through this great forest track in the dark, but +now seen in the morning light, the trunks of magnificent +trees rotting on the ground, or standing upright +with lifeless arms, consumed at the base, were visible +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">41</a></span> +everywhere. It is difficult to find out the exact truth +about the cause of these fires. Some few people said +"it was the Indians," but the weight of testimony attributes +them to the shepherds, who for the most trifling +purposes kindle a great fire. In some of the large +trees they have hollowed out regular chambers, and of +course the tree dies. Such waste of timber! For +mile after mile we passed scenes of desolation which +ere long those who allowed them will have cause to +regret. From time to time we encountered on the +road trains of waggons drawn by teams of handsome +mules with bells, and had occasion to admire the +economy of labour exhibited in the management, by +which the driver is enabled to work a powerful break +with one hand whilst he drives with the other. The +next stage, of fourteen miles, was over an exceedingly +bad road; but the horses were good, and we rattled +along at a capital speed down towards the plain. Once +the quick-eyed driver, pulling up suddenly, said, "See +that rattle?" leaped down and made towards the +bush; and as we followed him, sure enough we heard +distinctly the noise of the snake, which he had intercepted +on its way to a rabbit hole. It took refuge in +a clump of bushes with gnarled roots, and coiled itself +round one of the branches; but by a course of judicious +and rather nervous poking it was driven from its +vantage ground, and trying to escape was killed by +the driver with a blow of his whip, followed by a good +many unnecessary strokes from the rest of the party. +It was over three feet long, and had just been making +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">42</a></span> +an evening meal upon a rabbit, which it had left +where we had startled it; and it was evident from its +swollen appearance that it had been for some time +engaged in the warren close at hand.</p> + +<p>At 10.20 we reached Fresno, which is what the +Americans call "quite a place," containing not only an +hotel, a restaurant, and a store, but a shop where +photographs were exhibited. The <i>chef-d'œuvre</i>, a +portrait of a Spanish lady 140 years of age, living at +Los Angeles, did not, however, commend itself to our +taste. We halted at Coarse Gold at 11.40, and left at +12.35. Mr. Jerry Loghlan—who excused himself for +not working on the ground that "there was no use +in it, as there was nothing to be had," the mines being +worked "out"—whose acquaintance we had made on +the way up, a huge, broad-shouldered <i>vaurien</i>, was still +hanging about with his specimens of quartz, gold, and +rattlesnakes' tails, and a black eye recently acquired +in battle.</p> + +<p>After a long, hot, and dusty drive, it was with +no small gratification we made out on the flat the +houses of Madera, and after a time the carriages of the +special train. The air is so bright and pure that +the distances are very deceptive, and it was nearly +5 o'clock <span class="s08">P.M.</span> before we reached the station, which +had been visible for more than an hour previously. +It was pleasant news to hear that the little German +barber at the way-side had got baths all ready. In +the rear of his shop there was a row of apartments, +each provided with a clean zinc bath, hot and cold +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">43</a></span> +water to turn on at discretion, and an abundance of +towels. This in the centre of a waste seemed very +creditable to the civilisation of the people. I should +like to know in what part of Europe you would get +similar comfort under similar circumstances. I am +afraid there are many parts of the British Islands +where a traveller would demand such a luxury in vain. +And the barber was there to shave those who needed +it, and to give you all the news of the day if you +wanted it. He was a Prussian, and he grinned from +ear to ear as, in reply to my question whether he +had served, he said: "Serve, indeed! Not I. I came +away and escaped from all that nonsense. There is +not a king or an emperor or a prince that I would +fight for. Why should I?" "But," said I, "you +would have to fight for the Republic here if it were in +danger; and that would not be fighting for your +fatherland." "Yes," said he, "it would, for this is +my fatherland now. But I do not want to fight for +it either if I can help it. Fighting is nonsense."</p> + +<p>Our excellent stewards received us, if not with open +arms, with smiling faces. The carriages were trim +and clean and fresh, the tables spread out, and all +kinds of dainties provided for the evening meal. We +rested quietly for the night in the siding at Madera, +and got under weigh at 5 o'clock on the morning of +June 7th, the train being timed so as to reach San +Francisco at 12.30. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">44</a></span></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER III.<br /> +SAN FRANCISCO.</h2> + +<p class="chapsum"> +The Palace Hotel—General McDowell—Palo-Alto—The "Hoodlums"—The +Real Sir Roger—Exiles in the Far West—The +Chinese Population—For and Against them—The Sand Lot—Fast +Trotters—The Sea Lions—The Diamond Palace—The +Coloured Population—"Eastward Ho!" +</p> + +<p>The British Consul, Mr. Booker, who has been +watching over the interests of the Queen's subjects +for some thirty years here, and who is an institution +by himself, met the train at a place called, I think, +Porta Costa, and welcomed the Duke and his friends. +There had been for some days an infusion of the +Chinaman in the general element of life along the +line, but here it became concentrated, and then ceased +to attract much attention. As the train approached +the wide expanse of muddy water from the Sacramento, +which charges down with impetuous volume, +and colours the bay with its turbid stream, we could +form an idea of some of the advantages in the expanse +of navigable river, that had, however, lain long without +appreciation but for the bright red gold possessed +by San Francisco. The bay is animated; white canvassed +craft stud its waters, and the smoke of steamers +pollutes the clear, bracing air. Italian fishermen are +busy with line and net, and flights of ducks and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">45</a></span> +squadrons of gulls and cormorants show that the +waters are well stocked. It was too late in the year +to see the country in the full affluence of its wealth +of fruit and crops, of hay and corn, and the hillsides +and fields are now disappointingly brown. Presently +we arrived at Oakland, where the train was run out +on a pier 3500 yards long, to the steam ferry-boat +which was to convey us across to San Francisco. The +ferry-boat was crowded, for Oakland is a city of some +50,000 people; and of course it had once on a time, +not very remote, only a few sheds and insignificant +houses. From this side of the bay the city of the +Golden Gate, some miles away, was now visible in all +its pride of place—pride but not beauty, now at least—for +the city presents no great attraction to the +eye. The streets, running in parallel lines at right +angles to the quay right up the sandy hillside, +look like the ribs of some stranded monster, "lank +and lean and brown." The most prominent object is +the hotel to which we are going, which towers far +over the general level of house-top, steeple, and factory-chimney.</p> + +<p>There is a little pamphlet, crammed with statistics +and with an array of figures and superlatives enough to +daze one, given to the guests of the Palace Hotel; but +those who are in that happy category scarcely need the +information, and those who are not could not derive +any idea of the building from the repetition of the +ciphers which are to be found in the guide-book. +The drawing on the outside affords the best notion of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">46</a></span> +the size, but only actual purview can enable one to +judge of the excellent arrangements, the service, the +table. For once the American idol "Immensity" is +not overlaid. "'Tis blinding bright—'tis blazing +white! O Vulcan! what a glow!" Electric lights +flooding the court with brightness beyond description. +And what a court! Sweetness and light indeed! +In the great quadrangle, 144 feet by 84, there are +fountains playing, groups of statuary, and exotic plants, +and, tier after tier, rise the pillared terraces outside +the seven storeys of which the main building consists, +painted a lustrous white, shining like purest Parian. +There are 755 rooms, abounding in conveniences, +and comfortably luxurious. Each is provided with +high-pressure hot and cold water, and there is an +elaborate system of ventilation, alarms, conductors, +pneumatic tubes, telephones, and "annunciators" for +fire, letters, servants, &c. The beds are excellent; the +furniture admirable; and this vast structure, 120 feet +high, 275 feet broad, and 350 feet deep, is not only fire, +but—listen—"earthquake proof"; so says the bill of +fare, and so says ex-Senator W. Sharon, the proprietor. +I have not the least desire to test the truth of the averment, +but if I must be in a hotel when an earthquake +visits the city in which I am, let me be in the Palace, +San Francisco. A man may live here in the enjoyment +of a pretty continuous series of meals and one of the +best bedrooms for four dollars a day, and there is a +lower tariff of bed and board at three dollars a day.</p> + +<p><i>June 8th.</i>—Our first day was rendered exceedingly +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">47</a></span> +pleasant by the kindness of General McDowell. The +weather did its very best to prevent our enjoying it, and +was signally defeated. San Francisco is perhaps the +windiest city in the world, and at this time of year there +is almost always a storm in the harbour, and a steady, +powerful, and somewhat chilly blast, setting in a little +before noon, and lasting throughout the day until +nearly sundown, up the streets. The General's aide-de-camps +came over early to the hotel, in full uniform, +in honour of Major-General Green, but General +McDowell appeared in mufti, which eased us down +a little. A powerful steamer, the "<i>General Macpherson</i>," +was prepared for the party, which was +swollen by a considerable number of gentlemen invited +by our host to meet the Duke, and the gentlemen +from Topeka, who were included in the invitation. +The excursion afforded a favourable opportunity of +inspecting the city defences. From Alcatraz Fort, +Point and Presidio Island batteries, which would not +be considered very formidable as far as armament is +concerned, although their position affords great advantages +for torpedo defence, salutes were fired in +honour of Sir Henry Green. But in the case of +some of us the sight was marred by the rising sea, +which increased to an inconvenient height as the +steamer reached the Seal Rocks, close to the entrance +to the bay. Of the seals I shall give an account +farther on. They did not seem to mind the steamer +very much until she blew her whistle, when many of +them splashed into the sea. At the termination +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">48</a></span> +of the trip, which lasted some four hours, General +McDowell entertained the party at his official quarters, +which are beautifully situated on a bluff overhanging +the water of the bay.</p> + +<p><i>June 9th.</i>—We spent, in some respects, an abortive +and deceitful day; not, indeed, that there was anything +disappointing about our entertainment at Belmont, +under the auspices of ex-Senator Sharon; but that +we started full of enterprise, and intent upon inspecting +the great works of the Spring Valley Reservoir, and of +making an excursion through what was described as a +very beautiful county whence is brought the water +supply of the great city in which we were sojourning. +However, though we were baulked in the object of our +expedition, the day passed, and not in the least degree +unpleasantly, and instead of going to the Lakes we +drove about the neighbourhood of Belmont, and visited +several country seats.</p> + +<p>No one who visits San Francisco should omit taking +an early opportunity of going to Palo-Alto to inspect +the stock of General Stanford's thorough-breds, and the +breeding establishment, which as a sample of perfect +order and management cannot be surpassed. I cannot +answer for the figures, but I was informed that the +owner spends 25,000<i>l.</i> a year upon the maintenance of +his stud and stables, and that he has not as yet sold a +colt or filly, or parted with a single animal; sires, +mares, and young brood now amounting to about 700 +head. They are beautifully housed in detached stables +fitted up with every convenience that a horse of the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">49</a></span> +highest pedigree and most luxurious taste can desire. +I was particularly struck with the perfect silence +which prevailed throughout the stables. No shouts to +"stand over there," and none of that "——" (groom's +expletive) which is so common in our country. And +partly owing perhaps to that mode of treatment, and to +gentleness in handling, all the horses without exception +seemed tractable and sweet-tempered. High-bred +stallions stood out in the open for our inspection, and +allowed themselves to be rubbed and felt without even +laying down their ears or raising a hind-leg from the +ground. In reply to a question respecting a remarkably +beautiful animal, which seemed to have a little +more fire in him, the head groom said "You may walk +under his belly if you like," and then and there he told +one of the grooms to do so, which the man did, without +attracting any unusual degree of attention from the +animal. Outside one of the large blocks of stables +there is a kind of testing arena, in which we were told +it was the pleasure of General Stanford, when he was +at home, to sit watching the performance of his young +horses. It is an ellipse, like a large circus, bordered +with a hoarding, and in the centre there is a raised +stage for the visitors, on which are revolving chairs. +The riding-master, with an attendant, performing the +functions of the late Mr. Widdicombe, sets the animal +in motion, checking him when he breaks into a gallop. +The speed at which the animal trots the ellipse is +known by the time marked on a chronometer, and the +fact is recorded for the information of the inspectors, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">50</a></span> +who can turn round their chairs and follow the action +of the horse as it trots round the ring.</p> + +<p>The district of the State in which Palo-Alto is +situated boasts of several residences of the Californian +millionaires. One house which we visited, I think +belonging to Mr. Flood, furnished the most ornate and +beautiful examples of woodwork that were ever seen +by any of the party. The house, which was as large +as a good-sized English country mansion, is constructed +of timber of the finest quality, beautifully worked, +painted and varnished; and with moderate care a mansion +of this kind will last, in this climate, a couple of +hundred years, which to the American mind is an +eternity. There were artists from New York, and the +staff of an upholsterer and decorator of great renown +from the Empire City were still busily engaged in the +place as we went through the rooms. The magnificent +halls, reception-rooms, billiard-rooms, library, bedrooms, +all fitted up with extraordinary luxuriousness, +but in a somewhat florid taste, were of wood, the doors +of many of the apartments arresting attention by their +extraordinary beauty and finish. The ceilings decorated +in fresco by Italian artists, and bright windows filled +with stained glass gave an appearance of light and +grace to the whole residence. The kitchen arrangements +were marvels of ingenuity, and one envied the butler +who would have such a pantry as that which was displayed +for our inspection. Some of the pictures which +were ready to be placed on the walls were remarkable, +however, only for the richness of their frames; and, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">51</a></span> +indeed, we heard that the excellent proprietor was not +a man of very cultivated taste; a child of fortune, in +the prime of life and of money-making, spending a +portion of his enormous wealth with an easy hand, but +destitute of what is called book-learning, and leaving +to some future generation the cultivation of the graces +and the acquirement of accomplishments which the +circumstances of his early life had denied him to effect.</p> + +<p>It had been arranged that we should return to San +Francisco to dinner, but Senator Sharon had in his +secret heart resolved that we should do nothing of the +kind, or at least, that if we did so, it should only be +after we had partaken of such a feast at Belmont as +would very much indispose us to test the capabilities +of the <i>chef</i> of the Palace Hotel. From Palo-Alto accordingly +we were driven to the charming country house, +some miles away, of the ex-senator of Oregon, and we +were regaled there, after some delay, at a very elaborate +<i>déjeûner</i>, sent out from San Francisco. It was nigh +8 o'clock ere we got back to the city; and the night +ended by what might well be called "an excursion" +to the Baldwin Theatre, which was at the time the +most attractive of the places of entertainment of that +sort open in the city. As some of us were walking +back, after the play was over, with an American friend, +talking of the "hoodlums," famous rowdies, who, we +were assured, had been of late days utterly broken up +by the vigilance of the police, our attention was attracted +to a number of lads smoking at the corner of the street. +Our friend said "Hoodlums broken up! There they +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">52</a></span> +are—don't you believe it. That's a lot of them, and +if you were alone you might find out very unpleasantly +that there are plenty of them."</p> + +<p>The San Francisco journalists possess astonishing +powers of imagination. I rubbed my eyes when I read +that I had described "with eloquence the similarity +between a marsh at San Bruno and a patch of jungle +in the north-west of Scinde, where I had the felicity +of spending three weeks with General Green while +the natives were arranging a plan to capture the +party and cut our throats." I never was in the north-west +of Scinde in my life, and, although I had the +pleasure of passing a longer time in his company in +the United States, and of being on the same plateau +before Sebastopol when he was there, for a still longer +period, many years before, I never spent three weeks +there with General Green. The Duke was described +as "professing, but showing, little enthusiasm." However, +these matters are of very slight interest or +importance; only one wonders how many of the readers +of this sort of literary work believe in it. One of our +party has, according to a local paper, become a clergyman, +and now rejoices in the style and title of "the +Bishop," by which he is universally addressed by the +party.</p> + +<p>While in the train, on our way to Belmont, I had +the pleasure of being introduced to a gentleman +who, although a lawyer in very large practice, is +General of the State Volunteers; and in the course +of conversation, I heard that he had papers containing +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">53</a></span> +the statement of a gentleman who had visited, and +which convinced him that the real Roger Tichborne +was living not very far from San Francisco. General +Barnes, whose name and character stand high in the +city of the Golden Gate, and whom I found to be a +gentleman of great intelligence, seemed perfectly +satisfied by the story told by this new "claimant"; +but what he mentioned to me did not at all tend +to create in my mind any notion that he was not an +impostor, and especially were my doubts confirmed by +the quotations which General Barnes made from some +of the narrative, in which there was a ridiculous jumble +of French and English, in order to justify, apparently, +the stress placed by the "claimant" in his story on +that part of his life which was passed in France. He +spoke of his uncle as "mon oncle," and of Thursday as +"Jeudi," and so on. However, General Barnes appeared +to be so impressed by the truthfulness of the man's +bearing, and by the full details he gave him at an +audience in which he supplied the facts for the +consecutive narrative which I was promised, that I +expressed a desire to read it. General Barnes subsequently +sent me a long written paper containing the +heads of the claimant's story, a perusal of which +strengthened the conviction I had previously entertained. +I only mention this circumstance because +there was a report spread throughout the Press, by the +agency of one of the great telegraphic associations +which furnish the American public with intelligence, +that the Duke of Sutherland and myself had interviewed +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">54</a></span> +the real Roger Tichborne at San Francisco, and +had satisfied ourselves that he was the man; and +innumerable "headings" were invented for this supposed +interview, of which I was soon made aware on +my return westward in every newspaper that I read. +I promptly denied the statement that the Duke or +myself had seen the new claimant, and although the +denial appeared in print I was exasperated day after +day by being asked questions afterwards with regard +to this supposed conversation with Tichborne at San +Francisco, and by inquiries as to my real impression; +so it would appear that no one had seen or paid any +attention to the refutation of the story which had +brought down on my devoted head communications +from friends of other Tichbornes, of whom there are +several living, some in poverty and others in comparative +affluence, in various cities and districts of the United +States. I had further the mortification of seeing it +stated in print that I had used disparaging words in +alluding to the credulity of General Barnes, which was +an entirely baseless fabrication. With all the extraordinary +keenness of the American mind generally, +there is associated with it a considerable amount of the +Anglo-Saxon quality which is termed "gullibility," +and the land swarms with impostors who make a living +out of the easy faith of the population. I do not speak +merely of spiritualists, quacks, and professors of peculiar +religions or medical dogmas, nor of the preachers +of eccentric forms of faith or unbelief, but of the +mass of persons who contrive to get an existence by +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">55</a></span> +representing that they are "someone else." Although +their tricks are well known, the trade still flourishes. +They are always the "sons of peers," who have got +into disgrace with their families, but who will eventually +be owners of castles of historic fame and of enormous +estates; "distinguished soldiers"; "Maids of Honour +to the Queen," who for some unknown reasons are +living in small out-of-the-way villages in the West; +or political conspirators who have played a great part +on some distinguished stage and have saved themselves +from the consequences of defeated enterprize by +taking refuge in the States. And then there are +hordes of persons who are known by the title of "confidence +men," who travel about on the trains or in the +steamers, looking out for victims, or lounging about +the bars and saloons, waiting for their prey in the shape +of some facile and easy-eared stranger, who in consideration +of their merits and distress shall give them +temporary assistance. Sometimes, doubtless, there are +cases of very real suffering, sorrow, and poverty, to +which exile in the United States affords a melancholy +refuge. I was obliged to hear in one great city of a +gallant soldier who, reduced to poverty by no fault of +his own, had quitted England and given up the +society of his friends, and lived in a small suburb of +a town on the coast of the Pacific, his secret known +only to one or two officials, shunning all contact with +his countrymen and evading as far as possible all +inquiries of his friends. In San Francisco, where +there is a poor-house open to strangers and to native-born +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">56</a></span> +Americans alike, there are, I am told, to be met +with extraordinary exemplifications of the "downs" +of fortune. Adventurous and daring spirits, and pioneers +of civilisation, at one time probably possessed +of wealth which was wasted in dissipation, or lost in +unfortunate speculations, are there, talking of the days +that are gone, in all languages of the world, and awaiting +their end; while others who started with them in +the same race are building their palaces or revelling in +the enjoyment of wealth, compared to which our +greatest fortunes are, if figures can be trusted, a mere +bagatelle. How rapidly some of these fortunes can be +made was illustrated by numerous stories connected +with some of the richest men in California. I was told +by an eminent tradesman of San Francisco that one +day a miner came into his establishment to buy a +watch, which he said must be cheap and good, for he +wanted something he could trust to in the matter of +time, as he was going off with a party on an exploring +expedition after gold. This was in the early time of +the great "booms" in the West. He selected a watch, +for which he paid $40, and departed. The following +day he appeared in the shop and asked to see +the proprietor, and then, producing the watch, he said +he would like to have $30 for it, as he had lost all his +money in a "spree" the night before and must have +something to start with. The jeweller said, "Well, I +will return you what you gave me for the watch, as it +has suffered no harm, and you shall have your $40 +back again." The man went away exceedingly rejoiced, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">57</a></span> +and the incident was forgotten. Some eighteen months +afterwards a man came to the establishment, and looking +at rings, gold chains, and jewellery of the most +costly character, and asking for the best of everything +that they had got, gave orders which occasioned the +attendant to have some doubts as to his sanity, or +certainly as to the means he had of paying the amount, +which was rapidly running up to tens of thousands of +dollars. So he sought out his principal. The strange +customer said, "I suppose you don't know me?" +which was admitted to be the case. He went on buying +all the same, making the remark, "You need not +be uneasy about the money, for So-and-so (the bankers) +will tell you I am all right, and when you send the +things home you shall be paid. I am Joe Smith, from +whom some time ago you took a watch he bought from +you when he came to your store, and gave him the +full value for it when he was in want of money," and +so departed, having shown his gratitude by buying +6000<i>l.</i> worth of jewellery. This worthy miner is now +one of the wealthy pillars of the State.</p> + +<p>The Chinese quarter of San Francisco has been +described, I will not say <i>ad nauseam</i>, but as often +as any book has been written which contains an account +of a visit to the city of the Golden Gate. Of +course we went there, and saw all that was to be seen +under the best possible auspices, for Mr. Bee, whom +I have already mentioned, was our guide and companion, +assisted by an exceedingly intelligent officer +of the police force; and on the occasion of our second +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">58</a></span> +visit, when we went to the theatre, we had the advantage +of being under the protection of the gentleman +who represents law and order, on behalf of the +municipality, in connection with the Chinese population +and the arrangements for theatrical performances.</p> + +<p>The inspection of the dreadful den in which the +opium-smokers were to be seen suggested to my mind +a train of thought in connection with the traffic which +I would not willingly have communicated to my +American friends. It will seem incredible some day +to the awakened conscience of the nation that we +should have ever sanctioned such a frightful crime +as the opium traffic. "It only poisons about two +millions of people," is the excuse, "and brings in one-sixth +of the whole revenue of India." If ever it were +justifiable to utter the exclamation "Perish India!" +it would be, I believe, in regard to that disgraceful +source of revenue, and the necessity that is imposed +upon us, as it is alleged, to raise it, in order to maintain +the government of our Indian empire. Here in +San Francisco the State has nothing to do with the +sale of the poison, and it is very questionable whether +the police regulations should not be applied to it, just +as they are to persons who have tried to commit +suicide, or to the inebriates in public-houses, or to +places where intemperance is carried on to an extent +injurious to the public peace. Death is the inevitable +result of continued indulgence in opium-smoking, +although it is true that in some cases the victim +lingers on a few years, utterly indifferent to all the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">59</a></span> +business of life except the one—the means of supplying +himself with his only source of enjoyment. I was +in one of the shops where they sell the drug, and was +much struck by the cadaverous, sunken faces of the +unfortunate customers, with bright dreamy eyes, +trembling limbs, and wasted bodies, who came in to +buy it. It is cheap enough, in all conscience, as a +very small quantity suffices to produce what is called +"the desired effect"; but for its bulk it is exceedingly +dear, and indulgence in it must consume a +considerable amount of the earnings of the best-paid +artisans when they are no longer able to earn sufficient +to keep them with a full supply. "Then," as our informant +says, "they will commit any crime to get it."</p> + +<p>The general impression made upon me by the appearance +of the Chinese population was most favourable. +I do not now speak of what one might see in +going through the haunts where the police regulations +assign exclusive possession to certain classes +of the population, which, sooth to say, seemed numerous +enough; I refer to the business quarters, and to +the crowds of cleanly, intelligent, well-behaved people +of both sexes in the streets. General McDowell, and +many other persons, for whose opinion the greatest +respect must be entertained, look with apprehension +on the effect of the Chinese immigration, and +have, indeed, declared that it will destroy the Union +if it be not checked; and these apprehensions are +based upon the possibility that in time millions on +millions of the swarming population of China will +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">60</a></span> +inundate the United States, gradually overrun town +after town, usurping all the fields of labour, and beating +down the white man to the greatest misery by +competition in every branch of trade, industry, and +labour. This party has successfully, I believe, impressed +its views upon a considerable number of +senators and representatives in the Eastern States, +who can exercise pressure on the Supreme Government; +and the treaty recently signed between the +Republic and China contains provisions which enable +the authorities at the western seaports to exercise +considerable control over the current of emigration. +But, on the other hand, it is alleged that the fears +which are expressed of a rapidly increasing exodus of +Chinese from China, and an anabasis into the United +States, are purely imaginary—in fact, unreal and pretentious. +The pro-Chinese party allege that the +emigration comes from only one port in one province, +and that you may go all over the West, and ask any +Chinaman or Chinawoman where he or she comes +from, and you are met with the invariable answer, +from the one port. The friends of the Chinese—arguing, +moreover, that the State at large is benefited enormously +by the accession to its resources from the Celestial +Empire, and that the labour was attacked, not +because it was cheap, but because it was good; that it +is now indispensable, for without Chinamen and Chinawomen +it would be almost impossible to carry on the +ordinary life of these cities—allege that the agitation +which has been so violent in San Francisco is mainly +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">61</a></span> +encouraged by those who want to secure the Irish vote. +Colonel Bee represents these views very strongly. He +argues that Canton, not larger than the State of New +Hampshire, is the sole source of emigration. He insists +on it that there are no more than 100,000 Chinese in +the whole of the Union, and that for the last ten years +the emigrants have not sufficed to fill the places of +those who had gone home with money, never intending +to return, or who had died. He maintains, indeed, that +the Chinese are decreasing rather than otherwise; and +with all the power of figures, which he has at his +fingers' ends as Consul, demonstrates that a very large +proportion of the Chinese who are entered as arriving +at San Francisco and other parts are the same men and +women as those who came some years previously and +went back to their native country, returning to gain +more dollars.</p> + +<p>The principal enemies of the Chinese are the Irish, +who, having monopolised the whole of the work of +bricklayers, plasterers, carters, porters, and general +labourers until their arrival, have been forced to +reduce their rates of labour steadily by the competition +of the Chinaman.</p> + +<p>The part of the population of San Francisco denominated +the Sand lot, and especially those connected with +the political associations of the city, do not by any +means share Colonel Bee's views; but the agitation is +dying out, and the meetings, which were of weekly +occurrence, to excite the people against the Mongolians +have decreased in number, importance, and interest. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">62</a></span> +The directors of public companies, and the contractors +for public works, are all in favour of the Chinese +workman, who is sober, industrious, and orderly; and +although the trade combinations among them are +exceedingly subtle, and their powers of association +for trade purposes remarkable, being moreover the +most ancient in the world, the Chinese in the Western +States have not as yet taken to indulge in the +luxury of strikes. As domestic servants, nurses, and +attendants on children, they appear to be affectionate +and careful; and nothing could be better than the +service of the hotel in which we were lodged, the great +portion of which was carried on by Chinamen and +women.</p> + +<p><i>June 10th.</i>—In the spacious courtyard of the Palace +Hotel, at 7 o'clock this morning, there might have +been observed three well-appointed waggons (as +Americans call the vehicle more appropriately termed +"spider" at the Cape), each with two horses of race, +fast trotters, panting for a spin through the city and +the Park out to the shores of the Pacific. The Duke +and Sir H. Green and Mr. Stephen were driven by Mr. +Howard. Mr. Wright was "personally conducted" +by Mr. ——, and I was put behind a pair of as +handsome chestnuts as could well be seen anywhere, of +which the owner and driver (General Barnes) was very +reasonably proud. The streets of San Francisco, like +those of most of the American cities we have visited, +are atrociously paved; the torture of driving over +boulders is aggravated by the sharp ribs of the tram ways, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">63</a></span> +so that it is not pleasant, if, indeed, it be +possible, to drive rapidly till the limit of municipal +incompetence or fraud be passed. But once out on the +suburbs the chestnuts were invited to step it, and were +bowling along at a good fourteen miles an hour on our +way to the Park, over as good a road as horse or man +ever felt under hoof or foot. The Park not long ago +was a waste of sand, it is now swarded and planted with +shrubs, and luxuriant with flowers. Notices that it +was unlawful to do more than ten miles an hour were +posted up, but the General did not pay strict attention +to them till he came near shady places, where experience +warned him that policemen might be lying +privily in ambush. The pace was quickened till the +waggon seemed to fly through the air rather than +move over the ground. It was the perfection of +travelling on wheels—almost as buoyant as a headlong +gallop. The waggon weighed but 180 lb., the powerful +animals "scarcely felt it more than their tails." +I had a turn at the reins by "kind permission" of the +General. The art of driving trotters needs practice. +You must keep a strong, steady pull on the head, or +they "break." Very soon I had the satisfaction of +making the chestnuts break the law with a vengeance, +and of hearing the General say, "We are just within +the three minutes! not ten seconds inside it!"—that +is, of trotting at the rate of just twenty miles an hour. +Up hill and down hill, and along the flat out of the +Park and over the smooth road, and in half an hour +the Pacific was in sight, and the murmurs of the surf +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">64</a></span> +rose above the rhythm of the regular beat of the eight +hoofs in front of us! Cliff House was in view. Seal +Rocks, in their setting of foam, lay before us, and in +forty minutes from the time we left the hotel, despite +policemen, miles of bad pavements, and tramways, we +drew up at the steps of Cliff House, nine miles from +San Francisco, and the trotters had not turned a hair. +From the verandah at the sea front of the hotel, we +enjoyed for half an hour a spectacle which is, as far as +I know, unique. At the distance of 500 or 600 yards +from the beach at our feet there is a group of four +very rugged rocks, with serrated edges and tops, the +sides broken here and there into ledges and small platforms. +They are too small to be called islands, the +largest being, as it seemed, not 100 yards wide. The +slopes are not, I think, so steep as they looked on +the land side. On the two largest of these rocks there +were herds of sea-lions, so close that we could see, +through very poor opera-glasses, with the greatest ease, +their eyes, teeth, and whiskers, as they reposed or played +with each other. Some had clambered to the highest +ledges, escalading the sides by a series of painful-looking +struggles with their flappers; others were fast +asleep in cosy nooks; some were tossing their heads +about and making believe to bite each other in sport; +the younger ones were bent on teasing their fathers +and mothers by uncouth gambols. As they played or +moved they uttered cries between a bark and a roar; +now and then the noise was like that of a pack of +hounds in full cry, and the effect of the strange sound +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">65</a></span> +mingling with the tumult of the surf and the beat of +the waves was most singular and "eldrich." Those +fresh from the sea were shining black, but became +lighter as they dried. The older ones were not darker +than cinnamon bears or unwashed sheep. As many of +those on the rocks had not long left the water the +general effect of the herd put one in mind of a gathering +of enormous slugs on cabbages—not a poetic simile, +but a just one, I think. Occasionally a sea-lion, hungry +or bored by his companions, threw himself with a +splash into the wave, and it was interesting to watch +the rapidity and actual grace of his movements in the +sea compared with his laborious efforts on the land. +One could see them quite clearly through the body of +the heavy billows; occasionally a bold one would glide +close on shore and fish in the edge of the surf, raising +his head and shoulders clear above the surface, and +then diving out of sight. They were cruising about +in every direction. You remember the sea-lion at the +Zoo, of which the French attendant was so fond? +Well, the creatures below and before us were most of +them double the size of that fellow, and several exceeded +the largest ox in size. The monsters are quite +well known; one is named Ben Butler, "because he +is such a great beast." They were formerly protected +by law, but some one thought they killed too many +fish, and the law was repealed. They are safe all the +same, for there is a law against the discharge of firearms +within 300 yards of an inhabited dwelling; Cliff +House throws its ægis over the sea-lions in that wise; +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">66</a></span> +but the quantity of fish which must be devoured by +these mountainous phocæ (an they be so) daily would +maintain a decently-sized city. The hide furnishes the +"sealskin" used to cover trunks, and the body yields +oil fat, and the tusks are close, white, and hard. These +sea-lions breed far away up north, and come with their +young regularly every year to the same resorts; but +incessant war is waged upon them by the sealers and +whalers, so that the chances are against the beast +where he is not protected by law, and their numbers +do not increase. Altogether, the spectacle was one +never to be forgotten. A hotel, with oysters awaiting +us for a forebreakfast refection in the background, +waggons from Michigan, horses from Kentucky, all the +apparatus of civilised life close at hand, the Pacific +and its strange wild denizens at our feet! "Let us +turn in and have an oyster." "What! oysters in +June?" "Yes, and good ones too." In this favoured +land oysters are in season all the year round. There are +no oysters found on the coast, I am told, and they will +not breed. They are brought all the way from the +Atlantic coast when they are mere oysterlets, and they +are laid down in the Pacific, where they grow fat and +large, but are not "crossed in love," and therefore are +fit to be eaten from January to January. They are +about the size of a spring chicken, and need some +courage on the part of an assailant who desires to +dispose of them as he would a native.</p> + +<p>This was our last day in the city of the Golden Gate, +and the photographers were masters of the situation; +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">67</a></span> +and there was much <i>débris</i> of sight-seeing to sweep up—visits +to be made, shops to be inspected, among +which I must mention specially the Diamond Palace +of Colonel Andrews, one of the handsomest jeweller's +"stores" in the world, though it is not as large as the +establishments of the principal firms in London, Paris, +Vienna, or as Tiffany's in New York. The distinctive +feature of the interior is the decoration of the paintings +of fair women, on the ceiling and the walls above the +cases, by necklaces, diadems, zones, and other feminine +ornaments of real diamonds, emeralds, rubies, and +pearls. The pictures are the work of an Italian artist +of merit, and the general effect is very striking; but I +doubt whether it is a good way of inducing people to +buy the articles which bedeck the ideal beauties. At +Bradley and Rulofson's we saw photographs of many +of our friends, and had one more proof of the smallness +of the world. Every one we knew seemed to have +visited San Francisco. There we all submitted to +inevitable fate, and left our negatives behind us, but +the Duke was captured by a rival photographic institution, +and had a sitting all to himself.</p> + +<p>The aspect of a crowd in a large American city +differs from that of the passers-by in the street of an +English town, most of all in the appearance of such +a large proportion of coloured people. Here it may be +said, however, that they are colourless, as the prevailing +hue of the foreign population is that of the Chinaman. +In Canada the number of negroes, or of persons +of negro descent, of varying gradations of colour, is +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">68</a></span> +remarkable, considering the circumstances, but they +probably may be accounted for by the emigration in +the olden times of those who were escaping from +slavery, or who went with their masters and employers +into the Dominion. In the cities on the Lakes I was +very much struck by the persons of undoubted African +descent who are to be met with in the streets in great +numbers; and in Chicago there is a quarter nearly +exclusively occupied by them—honest, industrious, +hard-working people seemingly, given to stand about +at the street corners, however, a good deal on Sundays, +and cultivating a bright attire, especially on the +part of the ladies, whose bonnets and shawls were +things to wonder at. There are loafers amongst them, +as there are amongst their betters; but, taking them +all in all, in the Northern, Western, and Atlantic +States, they are a decidedly useful element in the +population, easing the burden of labour to the white +man, and following many occupations, such as those of +waiters, barbers, bricklayers, and labourers in the less +skilled sort of work, for which it would be difficult to +find American substitutes. One peculiarity, which +may be accounted for by some wiser person than +myself, seems to be their recklessness as to what +they put on their heads. Whether it is merely a +compliance with the custom of the white man, which +impels them to cover the highly effective protection +against sun and cold which Nature has given them, or +not; or whether it is that the canons of taste in such +matters have not yet settled down to those accepted by +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">69</a></span> +people in civilised life in the Western world, the male +negro has the most extraordinary indifference as to +the quality and shape of the thing which he calls a +hat or cap, and it would not be easy to find out of the +gutters of some Irish country town anything more +dilapidated, battered, and utterly incoherent than +some of the hats which one may see on the heads of +people of colour, especially down South. Whatever +other virtues they may have, neatness is not amongst +them; for, with all their affectation of finery, their +clothes are generally ill-kept, their houses are unkempt, +and, where they are cultivators of the soil, the +operations are performed in a slovenly manner. The +traditions of the old plantation have descended upon +them, and influence them.</p> + +<p>On my way from Messrs. Donahue and Kelly, the +bankers in Montgomery Street—I believe the former +of these gentlemen has had the privilege of giving +his name to steamers and cities, leastways railway +stations—I saw a party of sailors belonging to the +United States steamer "<i>Rodgers</i>," now about to proceed +in search of the "<i>Jeannette</i>," and I was much +struck by their resemblance to our own bluejackets +in general "cut of the jib," dress, face, and figure. +They were in charge of a smart-looking officer, and +had been paying a farewell visit to the fruit and +vegetable markets—one of the sights of the city. +They were in high good-humour, laughing and chatting +loudly, more than is the wont of Americans, +and I could not but contrast their fine physique with +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">70</a></span> +that of the soldiers we had seen at Sir Henry Green's +parade when General McDowell took us round the +harbour. The detachment at the Fort, consisting of +infantry and artillerymen, and squads of different +regiments, had some weedy veterans in the ranks, +who had lost their setting up and did not look fit +for much work; but the sailors, probably a picked +lot, were good all round.</p> + +<p><i>À propos</i> of Messrs. Donahue and Kelly, the number +of wealthy men in San Francisco of Irish origin or +nationality is remarkable. Millionaires with names of +Milesian prefixes and terminations are phenomenal. +We had intended to return to the East Coast by way +of Utah, and to stay a day or two at Salt Lake City, +but the railroad company did not consider it expedient +to give the party the facilities which had been accorded +in every other instance by the American authorities to +the Duke and his friends. To have gone round Salt +Lake City would have cost a couple of hundred pounds +more for haulage, and we were much more interested +in seeing Leadville and Denver than the City of the +Mormons; the game was not thought to be worth +the candle, and it was resolved that we would go back +as we came, in charge of the representatives of the +Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fé Railroad Company. +It was only one item more in the long list of things +we ought to have seen if we could, and I can safely say +that we had a large share of the common experience of +travellers in regard to the relations between the possible +and the impossible in the course of a journey in a +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">71</a></span> +strange land, where there are for ever cropping up +representations that "you really ought not to leave +without seeing" so and so. The evening of our last day +was passed in the society of General McDowell, Mr. +Morgan, the English Consul, Colonel Bee, and others, +who had done so much to make the visit to San Francisco +all that could be desired, and whose courtesy +and kindness will ever be remembered by every one +of us most gratefully. Like Sir Charles Coldstream, +we "had seen everything, done everything," but, +unlike him, had found there was plenty in it. The +street railway—most ingenious and successful, invaluable +in a hilly city like Lisbon—the Chinese +Theatre, the Joss houses—shops, eating-houses, opium +dens of the Chinese quarter, the clubs, the principal +buildings, the streets, the shops, the markets, the +harbour, the suburbs, and country round about—all +had been inspected, and yet each day we were told +that we were doing positive injustice to ourselves +and to the objects which were perforce neglected. +In the morning there was a levée in the hotel to +bid the Duke good-bye and see the party start on +their return journey. At the very last moment +a gentleman came forward with a proposal to take +us to the North Pole by balloon, but there was not +time to consider it in all its bearings and the offer +was declined with thanks. We started at 10 <span class="s08">A.M.</span>, +and the Duke was attended to the boat and to the +station across the water by a large body of San +Franciscans, who took leave ere the train started. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">72</a></span> +The gentlemen who were with us on the journey +westwards attended the Duke on his way towards +the Eastern States. All day we travelled through +California—"the hot furnace"—which at first, however, +proved to be only very warm, and the coloured +servants had constant supplies of iced compounds to +be drunk for the solace of the homeward bound, and +had laid in a stock of San Franciscan luxuries to +soothe the way. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">73</a></span></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER IV.<br /> +CALIFORNIA TO COLORADO.</h2> + +<p class="chapsum"> +Los Angeles—Mud-geysers—"Billy the Kid"—General Fremont—Manitou, +the Garden of the Gods—Desperadoes—Bob Ingersoll—Denver +City—Leadville—Grand Cañon. +</p> + +<p><i>June 12th.</i>—The train stopped at Los Angeles at six +in the morning, and, drawing up my window-blind, the +first person I saw on the platform was our good friend +Colonel Baker, who had come to meet us, intent on the +good offices which he could render during our stay. +These were exhibited in the form of a beautiful bouquet +for Lady Green, baskets of limes and oranges, and +great bunches of grapes. In this happy valley there +are cares as in the rest of the world. The Colonel +told us he was in the midst of a great litigation +affecting his claim to a large tract of land in which +there are said to exist the richest tin-mines in the +American Continent. Yet why should he care about +his tin-mine? There were rolling acres rich with +corn and fruit, and there were flocks and herds and +vineyards, and a charming home of his own. Nevertheless, +if the want of that tin-mine made him at all +unhappy, I am sure those who were indebted to him, +as we were, for so many kindnesses, will wish his claim +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">74</a></span> +to be triumphantly asserted, and long possession of all +that is to follow.</p> + +<p>I dreaded the passage of the Desert to Yuma; and +indeed the heat was intense. No wonder that with +the thermometer ranging from 100° to 104°, all the +blinds in the car were pulled down, and we sprawled +listlessly on the cushions. Our excellent attendants +put forth all the resources of art in the shape of ice +and preparations of limes and cocktails; but the temperature +would not be baffled. We could just read, +and were aware that we were living, and some of us had +strength enough now and then to execute forays against +flies with napkins to drive them out of the carriages. +How could people live out in the open, and work in +the mines, or pursue any out-of-door employment in +such torrid heat? Nevertheless, there was a marked +distinction between it and the heat to be endured with +the mercury at an equal height in India.</p> + +<p>The speed of the train was very respectable—somewhat +over twenty miles an hour—and at that rate +we ran from San Gorgonio and Banning on to +Cabazon, through a flat plain, dry and burnt up, very +like the desert around Suez, and fringed, like it, with +rocky and rugged hills, save that there was a great +growth of Spanish bayonets and cactuses of all kinds +among the stones and sand, and that snow was to be +seen on all the hill-tops in the distance. For 107 +miles there was no water to be met with going along +this plain; but the mirage, of which I have spoken in +the account of our journey to San Francisco, was +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">75</a></span> +frequent and beautiful; and again I was fascinated by +the sight of lovely lakes embowered in trees, with +stately cities on their shores, changing and shifting +and melting away, only again to assume apparent +substance to cheat the senses.</p> + +<p>Once the train stopped to allow the passengers to +visit the mud-geysers, which were not more than +150 yards on the left of the line, and with commendable +curiosity most of us got out and walked over +the baked earth to the spot. There was no mark +whatever of smoke or vapour to indicate the place; +and it was almost startling to come suddenly upon a +kind of pond of semi-liquid mud, fifty or sixty feet +in diameter, on which huge bubbles, varying in size +from an orange to a hogshead, were continually forming +and bursting. There was a faint sulphurous smell, +and the ground around the liquefied portion of the +surface, where the bubbles were breaking, was hot and +cracked. The conductor said that all attempts to +reach the bottom of the holes through which the +bubbles arose had failed. Two of these geysers were in +active operation, and the plain away to the left of the +rail was said to contain a great number of them. After +all it was very unsatisfactory to see this ebullition +going on without being able to account for it; and, +generally, I think we thought less of each other and of +our information after visiting them, and finding out +that not one of us had any theory on the subject which +would bear either fire or water.</p> + +<p>I do not think I ever saw a sunset more beautiful +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">76</a></span> +than that which marked the close of this day—certainly +not in India or South Africa, nor on the +prairie, for which they make claims of surpassing +beauty in the matter of sunsets. As it died out, I +felt that "thing of beauty" could not "be a joy for +ever," for it was a combination of colour and of form, +including sky and mountain, that it would be impossible +to see again.</p> + +<p>The kindness of which we have had so many +proofs, has followed, accompanied, and preceded us +all unremittingly and unweariedly. A rough with +some Bourbon on board mounted to-day the steps +of the car at a station, and insisted on seeing "this +Duke." When he was told that the object of his +attention was engaged, he said, "This is a land of +liberty (as in his case it was), and he doesn't want a +bodyguard with him!" But the conductor sent him +away about his business without trouble. On the +platform at Benson a few miners asked "the Duke to +come out and show himself." The people at the stations +were generally satisfied with a quiet peep; now and +then an enthusiastic Scotchman claimed a shake hands, +which was always accorded to him. A sleeper placed +across the rails (accounted for by the officers on the +hypothesis that some loafer without a ticket had been +turned off by the conductor, and had put the sleeper in +the way of the train to wreak his vengeance—a thing +which has occurred nearer home) was the only substantial +danger to which we were here exposed.</p> + +<p>The heat (June 13th) was intense. The thermometer +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">77</a></span> +rose to 105 at one o'clock in the day, and it was little +comfort to us to be told that at Deming it had been up +to 110 the day before.</p> + +<p>For some days we have been supping full of horrors, +indeed breakfasting and dining on them, for the +papers contain accounts of the extraordinary homicides +all about this region. Tucson, Benson, Wilcox—all +these places were resounding with the exploits of +"Billy the Kid." Now at Tucson there is, I believe, a +man whose name was once amongst the very foremost +in the United States. Who some twenty years and +more ago had not heard of General Fremont, "the +Pathfinder," the adventurous traveller, the energetic +politician, the dashing soldier? He had gone at the +outbreak of the war to take up the chief command in +the west with all the pomp and circumstance of glorious +war. I was somewhat astonished to find that he was +at Tucson, the governor of the Territory, on a humble +salary, apparently the world-forgetting and the world-forgot, +while "Billy-the-Kid" was perpetrating numberless +atrocities under his nose, and Mr. Pat Garrett +was dressing up his loins with his revolver-belt, and +about to go forth with a chosen band of citizens and +seek the redoubtable William.<a name="FNanchor_A" id="FNanchor_A" href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></p> + +<p>A person who has only seen settled States in +Europe, or the Eastern States of the North American +Continent, cannot form any notion of a territory +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">78</a></span> +which has become a centre of attraction to all the +wild adventurers and daring spirits which society, +in the process of formation, throws out as a sort of +advanced guard. In Arizona, in 1870, according to the +American Almanac, out of a total population of 9658, +2729 could not write and 2690 could not read. Of the +total population, 2491 were foreign born, and 2753 were +natives, the rest being coloured or under ten years of +age. In New Mexico, out of 91,000 people, 48,000 +over ten years of age could not read, and 51,000 whites +over ten years of age could not write. It may be +inferred from such figures what is the general condition +of the labouring classes in these States and Territories. +The inhabitants of these States have doubled in the +last ten years. They are filling up at a rate inconceivably +great—so great, indeed, that American newspapers +are fairly bewildered and American statesmen +appalled by the rush across the Rocky Mountains +and down the rivers, although as yet but a small +proportion of the immense stream of immigrants +has flooded the outlying territories. "At this rate," +exclaims a Western editor, "the old monarchies of +Europe will soon be depopulated." When Mr. Lincoln, +in 1861, addressed his inaugural to the expectant States +he expressed his confident belief that there were children +then born who would live to see the flag of the Union +floating over no less than 100,000,000 of human beings. +The recent census of the United States gives a return +of 51,000,000 of people, but the most eminent statisticians +have arrived at the belief that the progress +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">79</a></span> +and increase of the States will not be at the same +rapid rate as that which marked the history of the +Republic since the cessation of the great civil war. +It may be fairly inferred, however, that at the end +of this century the population of the United States +will greatly exceed that of Russia, or that of any +empire except China and Great Britain, including +Hindostan. The population, on each period of ten +years, has increased at an average of more than 30 +per cent.; in fact, nearer 33 per cent., and the centre +of it has travelled westward at the rate of more than +fifty miles every ten years, till the centre of population +is now eight miles west by south from Cincinnati. +In 1800 the Union extended over only 239,935 square +miles. Its flag now floats over 1,272,239 square miles +of States and over 1,800,000 square miles of Territory +governed by the central power at Washington. "We +cannot think," exclaims a Republican writer, "that +the war of rebellion settled all our troubles and made +us secure in our Republic. This enormous growth +of the practically unknown West reveals to us the +grave dangers that threaten our nation. We meet +there the tremendous influences of alien races and alien +religions." The Americans of New England and of the +Eastern States do not feel anxious on that score, +because their institutions are thoroughly founded, +their character formed, and they trust to the great +power of accomplished facts to assimilate the alien +elements and sustain the fabric of the Republic. The +bugbear of a great Chinese immigration has ceased to +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">80</a></span> +practically influence Californian politics, and it may be +safely assumed that the bulk of the future immigrants +from the Celestial Empire will only come from the same +sources as those which have hitherto supplied the stream. +No wonder, however, that thoughtful Americans—and +there are many who think of the future of their country +as something quite apart from dollars—are filled with +grave anxieties when they see such floods of purely +foreign material, which will in all probability exercise a +preponderating influence over the politics of the Great +Republic, surging into the States. Particularly have +the home missionary clergy, as they are styled, been +struck by the enormous influence which this foreign +immigration has exercised. According to one authority, +the Rev. Mr. Stimson, of Worcester, "it is not a question +of spreading any particular form of Christianity or +of Church government, but a momentous struggle of +American institutions with alien civilisations and religions +for the control of the great Western country. The +problem is not a matter of cleaning door-yards, but of +saving a continent for freedom." The Chinese Question +and the Indian Question are, they think, as nothing compared +with the Irish Question and the German Question. +"The Republic," we are told, "stands on a foundation as +broad as humanity itself," whatever that may mean, +"but its condition of existence is a universal regard for +the interests of all." Often during the course of the +Duke of Sutherland's excursion it was our good fortune +to fall in with men of great political and social knowledge. +The future of the Republic is, in the mind of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">81</a></span> +these men, clouded with uncertainty and doubt. They +are apprehensive of some unknown danger. It may be +corruption of political life leading to want of faith in +free institutions; it may be the rival energies and the +opposing interests which Washington foresaw as likely +to array the East against the West—the Atlantic +States against the inland States, and it is calculated by +some sanguine people that before this century is over +there will be eighteen, or possibly twenty, States +admitted into the Union formed out of the Territories +which are now under the central Government at +Washington. Upon such influences as these alien +immigration may be expected to act with prodigious +power. At a recent meeting in Springfield a clergyman +gave as an illustration of the absolute indifference +of the foreign immigrants to Republican +institutions a conversation he had with a Norwegian +minister in Minneapolis. "There is nothing," said +this gentleman, "in America which we Norwegians +regard as of value except your land and your money. +We do not want to learn English: we do not want to +know the Americans around us; we have certainly no +notion of becoming Americans, but we intend to remain +as we are—Norwegians." The Mormons control Utah. +They boast that they will soon govern five of the most +important territorial regions beyond the Rockies. But +if Utah becomes a State, as she hopes to do, she will +found a Mormon code of laws and institutions beyond +the power of the United States to control. New +Mexico may be considered as a Roman Catholic State +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">82</a></span> +under the control of an excellent archbishop. Of course +all prophecies may be falsified by events, but judging +by the eighty years which have elapsed of the present +century, and from the ratio of increase in that time in +the United States, the most liberal construction may be +placed even upon the bounding estimates of American +politicians and statists. When we look to the Far West +and see, for instance, how Winnipeg has become the centre +of a great network of river navigation, 300 miles in one +direction, 600 miles in another, and that the Mackenzie +River passes for 1200 miles through what is declared to +be the future wheat region of the world, we may easily +comprehend the anxiety with which the patriotic American +is filled lest the future of such a State should fall +into hands antagonistic to the principles in which his +<i>beau idéal</i> of government has been founded and has +prospered.</p> + +<p><i>June 14.</i>—At Lamy, a station named after the good +archbishop of Santa Fé, where we halted for a short +time whilst the passengers of another train were +breakfasting, a citizen came up to me on the platform +and exclaimed, as if he were very much impressed by +the news he was going to give, "If you look in there, +sir, you will see Bob Ingersoll at breakfast!" I asked +whether there was anything very remarkable about +the fact. "Well, sir," he said, "he is Colonel Ingersoll, +of whom you have heard. He is the most remarkable +in-fidel in the United States, and I really think he +believes what he preaches. A good man to look at, +too, and, they say, first-rate in his family." I had a +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">83</a></span> +glance at the believer in unbelief, and saw a very presentable-looking +person, of fine appearance and good +features, busily engaged in making the most of his +time at one of the tables in the refreshment-room. +He was the observed of all observers, and appeared to +like it; and I understood from one of the crowd that +he had just returned from inspecting some mining +ventures in which he was concerned; for, if he does +not believe in the world to come, he is credited with +very strong faith in the excellencies of the possession +of wealth in the world that is. His lectures are attended +by crowded audiences, but, as an astute American +observed, "they won't come to much, for, after all, +people who do not believe anything can never get up a +great enthusiasm. It is in believing something that +the populace has faith."</p> + +<p>Once more our eyes were rejoiced with the sight of +the lovely plains of Las Vegas, wide-spreading fields +decked with flowers and dotted with flocks, bordered +with ranges of softly contoured mountains, the courses +of the water streams indicated by bright vegetation +and by growth of trees of many kinds. From Lamy +(170 miles) there is a gradual rise to Raton, which +we reached at 6.30 in the evening. The appearance +of the region we traverse as the train approaches +the Raton Pass presents a strong contrast to the +desolate country through which we have been passing. +From Raton the train was drawn by two engines +in front and shoved by one behind, and even then +the pace was not very rapid, for the ascent is very +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">84</a></span> +sharp. All the more could we enjoy a very glorious +sunset, as we slowly ascended the mountain. Then +darkness came on rapidly, and we slid down towards +La Junta into the night, and were all fast asleep long +before we arrived there. In the very early morning, on +June 15th, some two hours after midnight, we halted +for a time at Pueblo. At 9 o'clock we had to leave +our beloved Pullman and change the cars, for we were +to take a fresh point of departure, starting from the +Union Depôt upon the Denver and Rio Grande narrow-gauge +railway for Denver, 119 miles distant, and making +an excursion on the way to Manitou, to which we +diverged from Colorado Springs: for to go within reach +of that famous resort and not to see it would have been +a great outrage on all the rules and regulations established +for the observance of travellers. Certes narrow-gauge +railways need an apology. Their <i>raison +d'être</i> is, at the best, that they are better than nothing. +"If you won't have us, you can have nothing else." +And in such a mountainous region as we were about +to visit, the difficulties and expense connected with a +broad-gauge line would have been enormous, if indeed +it could be constructed at all. The narrow-gauge +carriages, with seats to match, with which we were +made acquainted for the first time, were of course +much less commodious and comfortable than those we +had quitted, but far superior to those on the Indian +lines of the same gauge, and Indian engineers had been +over to take a lesson from the Americans for the use of +their carriage-builders. Atchison, Topeka, and Santa +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">85</a></span> +Fé Company and Denver and Rio Grande Company +have been at daggers drawn and pistols cocked—ay, +and fired—and at battles waged, in times gone by; +and now our friends on the former line were, like ourselves, +the guests of the latter, which was represented +by several official gentlemen anxious to do the honours +to the Duke. The scenery becomes grander and wilder +every mile as the special hurries on as well as it can +over the sinuous line, which is piercing a mountain +region savage and sterile, and climbing by the sides of +ravines and creeping upwards in rocky valleys with pine-clad +hill-tops and frowning cliffs above. The engineer +who designed the line is a Scotchman named McMurtrie—or +at least of recent Scotch origin—and he seems +to have a special gift for such aspiring work, and a gradient-compelling +genius not to be baffled by altitudes. +We were mounting towards the snows. Range upon +range of whitened summits and hoary ridges came in +view, all paying homage to the rugged crown of Pike's +Peak, which can be seen from points more than 140 miles +away. The fleecy cloudland which seemed to lie before +us, as we looked away from Pueblo, was resolving itself +into savage alps. And in these passes, which the eye +caught for a moment, there might be El Dorados still +undiscovered, for around us were cities springing out +of the desert. Here the enchanter's wand is the explorer's +pick, and no one could say where the precious +ore might not be awaiting its touch. We were coming +to the Land of Promises. The conversation of our new +friends, among whom were some gentlemen of the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">86</a></span> +press, related mostly to mines, and one of them had, +as we discovered, a very certain investment at the disposal +of the Duke, in the form of a mining-claim, which +was worth, at the lowest computation, twice as much +as he was willing to take for it. There was no reason +to doubt his good faith, but it was felt that it was a +kind of fortune which ought not to pass into the hands +of strangers, and should be reserved for the people of +the country; and I am sure all of the party who had +the pleasure of the owner's acquaintance hope that +he has "made his pile" out of it, and has more than +realised his expectations.</p> + +<p>Colorado Springs, forty-five miles from Pueblo, is +nearly 6000 feet above the level of the sea. The +character of the line to it is best described in the fact +that the average grade per mile is 44·14, the maximum +curvature 6°. There are "no Springs" here, but the +little town, charmingly situated, is a halting-place much +frequented in tourist-time by travellers, and reputed to +be healthful. There are some pleasant houses visible +from the station, at which we descended to take our +places in the carriages provided to take us to Manitou +Springs, five miles away. Mr. Palmer—if General, I +beg his pardon—the President of the Railroad, had +important business to attend to, but he was so well +represented by Mr. Bell, the Vice-President, that no +one regretted his absence, and it cannot be said in his +case <i>les absents ont toujours tort</i>. He is reported to +have made a very large fortune with much ingenuity, +and to have business talents which even in this country +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">87</a></span> +excite admiration. Mr. Bell is an Irish gentleman, a +member of the medical profession, who has a delightful +villa embowered in a garden in the environs of Manitou, +where the Duke and his friends found a charming +interior and an Irish-American welcome, and discovered +that strawberries and cream were almost as good in +Colorado as in Covent Garden. A quaint, odd place, +Manitou—an American Martigny, with Pike's Peak +rising (14,300 feet above the sea) over it in the clear +sky, inspiring regret that we could not make the excursion +to the summit, which is rewarded, we were told, +and I can believe, by one of the grandest views in the +world—the usual service of guides, horses, and mules, +and <i>calèches</i>—a naturalist's store with skins, minerals, +feathers, and stuffed "objects"—detached wooden +houses and villas in small plots of garden—a straggling +street, and large hotels for invalids. But there was the +unusual feature of encampments here and there by the +roadside, and notices forbidding the pitching of tents +within certain limits which were explained by the fact +that the high reputation of the waters and air induces +people to come from great distances for the treatment +of consumption, and diseases of throat and lungs. +Many of them find it cheaper to travel in horse waggons +and pitch their canvas dwellings when they wish to +make a halt, than to take up their quarters at hotels. +Poor people! what pale, hectic cheeks and wasted +forms we saw; little groups picnicking by the sides of +the rivulets along the roads—each with a gnawing +care—anxiety about some dear one's health in the midst +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">88</a></span> +of them. Our driver, an intelligent, chatty lad, was +full of information, and we had to drive the prescribed +road by the wells out to the Ute Pass, a mountain-gorge +wild enough—a small <i>Tête Noire</i>—to points to +which magniloquent names have been given.</p> + +<p>It is not for want of what is called puffing that +Americans neglect the resorts of health of their own +country, and in the States far and wide the beauties +and advantages of Manitou are blazoned forth on the +walls of hotels and in guide-books to all who can read. +I may confess now that, notwithstanding the magnificent +altitude of Pike's Peak, and the eccentric forms +of the rocks in the "Garden of the Gods," I was disappointed +with Manitou. But then the visit was +short, and the day was hot, and the way was long and +dusty, and haply it might be that under different +circumstances Manitou would deserve much warmer +praise. It possesses indeed an abundance of curious +springs, said to be full of health-giving properties; +and in the course of our drive we halted several times +to partake of drinks from various springs, out of one +of which bubbled up very good soda-water, precisely +like Schweppe's best in taste and appearance. +At the large hotel, which put one in mind of the great +establishments of the same sort in Switzerland, the +water served at table to the guests—a sort of pleasant +Apollinaris-tasting beverage—came from a natural +fountain.</p> + +<p>The "cataract" nearly made us angry, and there +was no regret felt when the carriages returned to the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">89</a></span> +hotel, where there was unwonted activity and bustle, +as the "Denver Zouaves" had just descended in a +friendly razzia on it, and were desolating the hearts +and fireside resources of Manitou. The consequences +might have been serious, as it turned out, to unoffending +strangers. Those who needed it turned into the barber's +shop of the hotel to be shaved, and after some delay a +coloured man appeared, who began to try his hand on +me. Fortunately it was not 'prentice, for it was very +unsteady, and I became a little alarmed for my cuticle. +"It will be all right, mister," quoth the barber. "I +never cut any one. But I'm demoralised, dat's a fact, +having to wait on dem Denver Zouaves. Lor a messy +on any enemy dey has! My nerve's all gone to pieces +wid their wantin' everting at once at the dinner!" +The hotel seemed far more clean and comfortable +than the caravanserais in the land of William Tell; +but our stay was short, for we were put under +orders for a sight which has the most inappropriate +name that could be invented—a valley in which the +most extraordinary-looking columns carved out in a +plateau by the agency of water, have been left standing, +detached and in groups, to which the visitor +enters through a cleft in a barrier of rock passing +round the base of a pillar of sandstone as high as +a house. The "Garden of the Gods" contains 500 +acres, and is surrounded by mountains and cliffs. +The sandstone pillars generally taper from the base +upwards to a short distance from the tops, which are +flattened out or surmounted by slabs or blocks of sandstone +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">90</a></span> +of fantastic outline, and they are called by names +derived from fancied likenesses to animals, birds, +and men. The juxtaposition of the most brilliantly +hued, dazzling-red blocks and strata, with masses of +the same material of milky whiteness, gives the impression +that the scene is the work of human hands; +it seems too quaint and artificial for the hand of +Nature, to which alone it is due; and the vegetation +and the trees are in keeping with the character of the +place. A trysting-place for geologists, and their happy +hunting-ground, no doubt. But why "the Garden of +the Gods," I pray?</p> + +<p>From the valley or cup, emerging by another +road, the driver took us to a ravine-like recess, +almost girt in by high wooded mountains, in which +Mr. (General?) Palmer is erecting a mansion of palatial +importance—a picturesque site surely—cliffs, +forests, and mountain all around, and in view one most +singular sandstone pillar, named the Major Domo, +120 feet high and only 30 feet round—a mountain +stream brawling through tangled brushwood glades—a +garden. But the heat! That must prove a terror +by day to the inmates of Glen Eyrie Lodge or Castle—which, +by the by, was named, as one of us insisted, +from a collection of rubbish on a ledge in the face of +one of the cliffs, which was, he maintained, the nest of +an eagle. It was now time to return to our train, +and we were not sorry to get back to Colorado Springs.</p> + +<p>From Colorado Springs to our destination at Denver +there were still 75 miles of rail, and the line continued +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">91</a></span> +to ascend till we reached Divide (7186 feet), +whence there was a gentle descent. There were sixteen +stations named on the time-table. We stopped +at very few of them, and travelled somewhat too fast +to permit our placid enjoyment of the scenery, austere +and vast, which indeed deserved more attention than +could be given to it by passengers in a very lively +train—endless alps on alps, not sheeted with perpetual +white, but rather flecked with snowfields, which contrasted +finely with the sombre pine-forests, and the +rich hues of the rocks, touched by the rays of the +setting sun, that, ere it slid behind the mountains, +cast a rose-coloured mantle on their summit. The +evidences of a bustling city were not wanting in the +approaches to the capital of Colorado. There were +tall chimneys vomiting out smoke in the distance, and +near at hand trains of waggons were toiling over the +dusty plain—still 5000 feet above the sea-level—fast +trotters and people on horseback, beer-gardens, factories +of all kinds, brick-kilns, and then a fringe of +log houses and wooden shanties, before the train +stopped at the imposing and substantial depot.</p> + +<p>It was a quarter-past eight, nearly dark, when +we reached Denver, and glad were we to get into +the hall of the Windsor Hotel, which was crowded +with a mixed multitude—miners, and speculators, and +traders, and some travellers like ourselves—a very busy +scene indeed. In the hotel were all human comforts +nearly; hot and cold baths, and good rooms, and more +appliances of civilised existence, for those who could +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">92</a></span> +pay for them, than could be found in many hostelries +of approved reputation in venerable towns at home; +moreover, exuberant offers of help and information. +One goes to bed laden with obligations and heavy with +the sense of favours which can never be repaid. There +was now a <i>soupçon</i> of frost in the air, and notwithstanding +the heat which we had endured the greater +part of the day, fires were not ungrateful; and as +we peered out of our windows over the roofs of the +wide-spread houses of the town, we could see the +snow on the lofty ranges of hills, watered by the South +Platte River and Cherry Creek, which surround the +cup in which Denver has been built in obedience to +the impulses of the increasing population, which now +numbers, I believe, 38,000 souls. There was a bright +glare from the gas-lighted streets, sounds of music, and +a tumult of life in the town which would have been +creditable to an ancient metropolis. In the morning +from the hotel windows appeared a beautiful and widespread +panorama of the hills we had seen the evening +before, peak above peak, none very densely covered +perhaps, or presenting continuous snowfields, but +extending in billowy sweeps far away to the horizon, +all capped with snow, now bathed in a flood of fervent +sunshine, the snow lighted up by the peculiar +crimson tints common in Alpine regions. There +were duties in the way of sight-seeing and exploration +of no ordinary nature to be done. First there were +interviews and receptions, and the inevitable drive +through the place as soon as the ordeal of breakfast +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">93</a></span> +was over; and ordeal in some sort it was for the +strangers to file in to the public room and take their +places at their table, aware that the morning papers +had subjected them to exhaustive criticism, which was +being verified by those around us. The morning papers +too had given some topics for reflection, indications +that in the newly created capital of Colorado desperate +men, overtaken by the march of law and order, had +refused to accept service, and were vindicating their +rights as wild western outcasts to take or part with +life as of yore, in reckless encounters and deliberate +assassinations. There were, perhaps, at that moment +some hundreds, if not thousands, out of the population +of 37,000 or 38,000 of the city, who belonged to the +adventurous classes—sporting-men, betting-men, ring-men, +bar-keepers, hell-proprietors, and their satellites, +and the scum of the saloons attracted from the great +cities of the States for hundreds of miles, by the +prey which miners with belts full of gold, half mad +with drink, and always fond of excitement, frequently +are; and if to these be added the dissolute loafers +and broken-down mining speculators, the strength +of the army arrayed against the law may be estimated; +and the wonder is that among a population armed +to the teeth there are not more cases of such violent +deeds as we were reading of at breakfast. To the +stranger there was no evidence of the existence of +these disturbing elements, unless the bearded and +booted men with speculation in their eyes, in the hotel +passages and halls, belonged to the dangerous, as they +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">94</a></span> +certainly did to the mining, classes. As to the resources +of the city, although for rapidity of growth +its wonders may be eclipsed by those of Leadville, +Denver claims a very high place in the catalogue +of these marvellous fungi of civilisation, of which +the Western States present almost unique examples. +There is everything that any one can want to be had +for money in the place, and much more than most people +need. Paris fashions and millinery are in vogue. +There are fine shops, handsome churches, a theatre, +breweries, factories, banks, insurance offices.</p> + +<p>The principal street exhibits pretty young people, +who would have no occasion to fear comparison with +the <i>beau monde</i> in Eastern or European capitals. The +thoroughfares are crowded with vehicles, and spruce +carriages and well turned-out horses may be seen in +the favourite drive, that has been made over an +indifferent road to the base of the Rocky Mountains, +which appear to be close at hand, though they are +thirteen miles away. But here and there in the well-dressed +crowd may be seen a Bohemian <i>pur sang</i>, or a +miner in his every day clothes, bent on a rig out and +a good time of it. The streets, unpaved, dusty, and +rugged, are very wide, and bordered with trees, and +the houses generally are built of good red brick +instead of wood; and there are runnels of water like +those one sees in Pretoria and other Dutch towns in +South Africa. The roads about the city leave much +to be desired; but Rome was not built in a day.</p> + +<p>There are many ready-made clothing establishments +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">95</a></span> +in the main streets, and there is a heavy trade in +tinned provisions. Through the Western States, as in +South Africa, the débris of provision-tins constitutes +a certain and considerable addition to the objects to be +seen in the vicinity of every house, and to the mounds +of rubbish in the street of every village. How indeed +could the first-comers in such regions keep body and +soul together without the supplies in such a portable +form of the first necessaries of life? Having once run +up a town in these remote wastes, the inhabitants are +still compelled to make a liberal use of the same sort +of food, and mines of tinned iron gradually accumulate +around them.</p> + +<p>Our first excursion was to the Argo Works, under +very pleasant auspices, for we had the wife of the Senator, +who is one of the principal partners, and Mrs. Pearce, +whose husband is largely interested in the works, taking +charge of us. The works are at some distance outside +the town, but the lofty chimneys vomit out quite sufficient +vaporous fumes and smoke to blight the vegetation +and to give the people near at hand a taste of their +quality. I am not going to give a minute description, +for more reasons than one, of what we saw at the +works; but it was a very interesting exhibition of the +processes by which the precious metals are extracted +from the ores and delivered to commerce. The Argo +Works simply assay and reduce ores on commission, +but the business is on a very large scale. Immense +piles, in fact small mountains, of brown, cinnamon and +earth coloured dust and rock were heaped up in the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">96</a></span> +sheds, to be brought to the furnaces and turned, when +divested of the lead, iron, copper, and gold, out in +ingots of silver. All the methods for the extraction +of silver were shown to us, but I committed a gross +indiscretion when I asked, in my ignorance, "How +do you extract the gold?" "That," said the urbane +gentleman who was conducting us over the works, +"we never permit strangers to see." So there is more +there than meets the eye.</p> + +<p>The business of assaying here must be profitable, and +if the reputation of any firm be once established there +is a secure fortune for its members. The miners flock +to them, and they can dictate terms. The extent of +mining work in the country around may be inferred +from the numerous offices in connection with it in the +city. As a specimen of what Messrs. Bush and Tabor +of our hotel give their guests for dinner, let me offer +you this <i>menu</i> of the 5.30 ordinary to-day (June 16). +Soup, beef à l'Anglaise; fish, boiled trout, anchovy +sauce; corned beef, leg of mutton, sirloin beef, chickens +with giblet sauce, fricassee à la Toulouse, veal, kidneys +sautés aux croûtons, rice, croquettes, baked pork and +beans, saddle of antelope, currant jelly, lamb, tongue, +chicken salad, spiced salmon; innumerable "relishes" +and vegetables, baked rice pudding, strawberry pie, +apricot pie, jelly, blancmange, vanilla ice cream, +macaroons, pound cake, fruit, Swiss cheese, nuts, coffee, +&c. The wines were not cheap: champagne 16<i>s.</i> a +bottle, St. Julien 6<i>s.</i>, Leoville 14<i>s.</i>, sherry 8<i>s.</i>, brandy +14<i>s.</i> per bottle. Orders for "drinks" at the bar after +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">97</a></span> +dinner were much more general than orders for wine +at dinner.</p> + +<p>Denver, in spite of its mineral wealth, is very poor, +however, in that of which the want would make life, +even in America, intolerable. The supply of drinking-water +is scanty and bad, and last year there was nearly +a water famine. The <i>cartes</i> in the hotel announced +"Water used in this room is boiled and filtered." But +great efforts have been made to furnish the inhabitants +with a store, constant and adequate, of the precious +fluid, and we saw very considerable works, the property +of an Irish gentleman, erected before the town attained +its present dimensions, which were to be supplemented +by a new enterprise respecting which we +heard much. Perhaps no town of equal size in an equal +length of time has ever had so much money and money's +worth flowing in and through it as Denver since the +Colorado mines were worked. It is asserted that the +trade of the town for 1881 will exceed 8,000,000<i>l.</i> +Colorado in 1879 yielded ores to the value of more +than 3,750,000<i>l.</i> The output in the present year will +exceed that of 1880. In that year $35,417,517 worth of +gold and $20,183,889 of silver (more than 11,000,000<i>l.</i>) +was deposited in the United States Mint and Assay +Office. There is, besides, vast wealth in flocks and +herds, and Denver is the place where the people resort +from Colorado for purposes of trade and pleasure; +altogether an astounding place, with a future quite +dazzling to think of, unless the mines give in, and even +then Colorado cannot again be poor; its climate and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">98</a></span> +scenery will always attract travellers, and its capacity +for feeding sheep and cattle will secure its population. +"And as to the beetle?" Why, no one would have +anything to say to it. Nothing was known of it. +There might be such things in other States. "And +the name?" Probably it was a red-coloured bug, and +got the name Colorado just as the river, or tobacco, +was called, from the hue of it. At all events the bug +did not belong to the State.</p> + +<p>The interest which the progress of Colorado and the +condition of society in the State excite was exemplified +by the appearance in Denver of a party of Hungarian +noblemen, whose names gave occasion for stumbling to +the journalists who copied them out of the Hotel Register—Count +Andrassy and others, who were travelling +under the guidance of Dr. Rudolf Meyer, of Vienna. +Although the air of Denver is so much bepraised, +it happens that most of our party felt rather overcome +at the end of our excursion through the town +and the visit to the smelting works, and one of +the Hungarians was confined to his room. However, +they sallied out before dinner, and a gloomy +prophet of evil remarked, "If these strangers should +have a difficulty, I consider they'll hev only theirselves +to blame. Some citizens don't like strangers +comin' in and starin' at them, and they're apt to be +awkward in their tempers in the afternoon." Knowing +no danger, and fearing none, they went off, and were a +long time absent. Meantime we were preparing for +the road, as we were bound for Leadville, the city of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">99</a></span> +the "biggest boom" of mining times—"the Silver El +Dorado," as the guide-book, with a magnificent "bull," +describes it. Our Hungarian friends returned to the +hotel ere we left. They were filled with enthusiasm, +and with a good deal also of curiosity in regard to the +shootings of which they had heard so much, and were +following in our track next day, and so we parted <i>sans +adieux</i>. How the love of gold has filled these lone +valleys with desperate men! "They are a rough lot, +sure enough," said the landlord, "but lynching keeps +them down; and it is much better than hanging according +to law, to my mind. It certainly is cheaper." +"How is it cheaper?" "Why," said he, "when a +man is prosecuted, or when he is tried before the +judges, the law expenses are heavy, and they fall on +the county. When a man is lynched there is only the +expense of the rope, and a little loss of time for the boys +who do the job." From Denver to Pueblo and from +Pueblo to Leadville the line is on the narrow-gauge +principle, and our train, which left at seven o'clock in +the evening, seemed to be driven on no principle at all; +for, anxious to astonish a Duke perhaps, or Britishers +generally, the driver did what certainly could not be +called his level best to send us along up and down +a very rough line, and round the sharpest curves, at +the rate of forty miles an hour, so that when we +turned in, our rest, if rest at all it were, was exceedingly +broken, and we trundled about in our +berths as if we were in a ship in a pretty heavy +sea. Still this narrow-gauge was the only line which +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">100</a></span> +could be made through such a country as we were +traversing. Peeps out of the window ever and anon +revealed, high up amongst the stars, rugged mountain-tops, +and for ever there came the sound of rushing +water, near or remote, as the train "bounded" on its +course. I do not know what stations we passed on +our way, but the night was very long, and I greeted +with pleasure the first gleam of light above the hill-tops. +The Arkansas River was on our left, and at +dawn we had glimpses of its turbid stream running +madly in deep gorges far below us. At the South +Arkansas station the train halted soon after daybreak, +and then we diverged from the main line, and a light +train took us over the Arkansas River by a fine bridge +on its way up the Gunnison Extension to visit the +highest mountain-pass traversed by a railway in the +world. South Arkansas station is 217 miles from +Denver, and is 6944 feet—and Marshall Pass (25 miles +away), to which we were bound, is 10,760 feet—above +sea-level. There were grades of 211 and curves of 24° +on the way, and the railroad twisted in and out among +the ravines like an iron Alexandrine, for ever ascending +till we had passed the limits of forest life. There were +stations at short intervals—Poncha Springs, Mears, +Silver Creek—from each other. From the stations +there is a good deal of cross-country traffic, and at one +place we saw three stages laden with men and women—or +rather, to be polite and accurate, let me say with +women and ladies—starting, one with six horses, and +the other two with four each. These were bound for +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">101</a></span> +Gunnison, and as we were halting for a little, the Duke +and some others got out of the train, and sauntered up +towards the wooden shanties which formed "the town," +consisting of the usual array of saloons and drinking +places. However, our course was cut short by the +information vouchsafed by one of the officials, that it +might be as well not to go up, as there had been +a big shooting match that morning, and that one +man was killed and four had been wounded, "and +some of them were on the drink yet." From 4.30 <span class="s08">A.M.</span> +to 6.45 <span class="s08">A.M.</span> we struggled up towards the pass till +the line came to an end near the summit, and we +were rewarded by some very fine views, exceedingly +like those of the Mont Cenis Railway or the Sömmering. +The hills on both sides of the line were +stippled and flaked with snow, but there was no extensive +field, so far as the eye could see, nor was there +any appearance whatever of a glacier, the tops generally +being clear of snow, which only lodged in the +ravines and hollows. Strange it was in these alpine +heights to hear the clang of Italian tongues; but most +of the navvies were from Italy, and if not quite so +strong as English or Americans, they were in more +favour with contractors, because they did more work, +owing to their steadiness and sobriety. The line was +being pushed on at an astonishing rate, and one man +was pointed out to us who had laid four and a half +miles of railway in one day, "the biggest thing of the +kind ever done." Our enjoyment of the scenery was +very much diminished by our animal appetites, stimulated +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">102</a></span> +by the sharp mountain air, which craved incessantly +for food. But not even a cup of coffee was +to be had until we got back to the South Arkansas +station, late in the morning, where an excellent breakfast +awaited us. Here we were detained some time by +a derailment of an engine in front.</p> + +<p>From South Arkansas station to Leadville (61 miles) +the railroad is still more aspiring. The higher we +ascend the less striking are the scenic effects, but the +grades are not very severe till we come to Malta, +where it reaches 130; from Hilliers to Leadville the +maximum is 176, the curves being often 15°. The +general character of the country may be conceived +from these figures, but no words can convey any idea +of the wholesale destruction of timber which has marked +the progress of the explorers and prospectors. Where +the axe was weary the blaze and the fire were called in, +and hundreds of miles of forest are laid in blackened +ruin. At last we are on a level with the hill-tops. +There, on the hill-tops and in the valleys of a sterile +region in front of you, amidst those tall chimneys +vomiting out smoke and steam, is a wilderness of +wooden huts, "the Great Carbonate Camp"—where we +leave the train—spread out over an undulating plateau, +broken into mound-like hills and sharp hillocks—bustling +streets filled with the most remarkable swarm +of all nations that ever settled on any one spot in +the world. The story of Leadville reads like a +chapter out of some book of Oriental fable. It is a +huge barrack of wooden houses, with some solid and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">103</a></span> +important buildings, with masses of tree-stumps cropping +up in the centre of the main thoroughfares, +pitched over an undulating, rugged, dusty ledge. In +the midst of blocks of houses sprout up the chimneys +of furnaces and mining works, the clang of machinery +fills the air, which is thick with clouds of dust. It was +a few years ago an utterly wild, lifeless waste amidst +the mountains covered with forests, when three +brothers, named Gallagher, exploring from California, +were led by some genius, good or bad, to test the +material of the rocks in the ravine. They struck gold +ore, and silver too, and they set up a claim; and +presently they sold their shares in the land which they +had appropriated, for 40,000<i>l.</i>, which they divided. +Two used their wealth wisely, and made more of it, +and, taking to themselves the members of the family, +throve exceedingly; one, not so wise, if he were quite +as good, did not prosper as well as his brothers. But +the scene of their operations was soon swarming with +enterprising miners. There was a mighty "boom." +Now there is a city! Leadville is, I think, the most +astonishing city on earth, but I am not by any means +inclined to say that it is a place I should like to be +astonished about for more than a few hours.</p> + +<p>The party drove to the Morning Star, said to be +the best mine in Leadville; and the Duke, Lady Green, +Sir Henry Green, and others, went down the mine +in miners' clothes or cloaks. Two others, whose names +I shall not give, remained above, and had, I fancy, +the best of the time. Afterwards we visited Grant's +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">104</a></span> +Smelting Works, and then back to the Clarence Hotel +and dined, strolling out afterwards through the town +and visiting the billiard saloons, the Grand Central +Theatre, and finally, where we were told Leadville life +was to be seen in all its glory, the faro and the kino +tables, which, however, were doing but very little +business, as it was not until after midnight that play +in the town generally commenced. Instead of sleeping +at the hotel, we resolved to take refuge in the train, +which was drawn up at the siding; and we had to +drive in order to reach it, as it was considered unsafe +to walk through the streets in the dark.</p> + +<p>We started at four o'clock next morning, June 18th, +and on arriving at Arkansas Station learned that an +engine was off the line in front of us. Breakdown gangs +were sent for, and all the locomotive talent amongst +our passengers repaired quickly to the scene. As it +was not easy to lift the engine, the engineers adopted +the expedient of laying a temporary rail to turn its +flank so as to enable us to pass round it, which we +did after a delay of about an hour. The Duke got +out and sat on the cow-catcher by way of a change. +But the interest we took in the scenery was somewhat +diminished by the intelligence that the delay +caused by the engine would prevent our enjoying the +"soda bath" we had been promised at Cañon City, and +the sight of the State Prison, where murderers were +to be paraded by the dozen. About twenty miles +north of the Grand Cañon, the gorges through which +the river runs became wider and deeper. All that has +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">105</a></span> +been written about the Grand Cañon utterly fails to +convey an adequate idea of its exceeding grandeur and +wildness. The rocks—closing in so that the spectator +in the car, looking forward, thinks the progress of the +train must be arrested, and that it is not possible for +it to get out of the <i>cul de sac</i> which appears in front, +rising aloft for upwards of two thousand five hundred +feet on each side—are coloured with the brightest +hues, and present an infinite variety of form. The +impetuous current of the Arkansas River, contracted at +times to the breadth of some twenty or thirty yards, and +penned into a space in which the waters boil and toss +as if about to leap on and submerge the passing cars, +roars wildly down below on our right at a depth varying +as the line rises and falls. But it is at the Bridge—a +triumph of engineering skill—that the horrors of the +pass culminate. The sides of the ravine approach so near +that the daring engineer was enabled to execute the idea +of lowering from above a <img src="images/triangle.jpg" width="15" height="18" alt="Triangle" />-shaped frame or trestle of +iron; and, the ends catching on each side of the +gorge, permitted him to work on it for the construction +of the iron platform over which the train is +carried at a height of some hundreds of feet right +over the maddened river. You can look down through +the interstices of the girders and glance shudderingly +at the hell of waters below—a sight and sensation +never to be forgotten. The ravine gradually expands +and the cliffs recede as the line strikes eastwards; and +though the scenery retains a wild and savage character +for many miles farther, the impressions of the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">106</a></span> +Grand Cañon caused us to regard it with comparative +indifference. We heard many tales of the great railway +war which was waged for the possession of the +pass, of which traces still remained in the ruins of +posts of vantage and observation, and the works of the +defeated railroad visible on the other side of the ravine. +At night we reached Pueblo and took up our quarters +in our own cars, and continued our journey, after some +delay, towards Kansas City. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">107</a></span></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER V.<br /> +KANSAS TO ST. LOUIS.</h2> + +<p class="chapsum"> +Liquor Law—Kansas Academy of Science—An Incident of Travel—A +Parting Symposium—Life in the Cars—St. Louis to New +York. +</p> + +<p><i>June 19th.</i>—Still on the rolling prairies; in the +country of compulsory abstinence—the paradise of Sir +Wilfred Lawson. At 9.30 <span class="s08">A.M.</span> the train stopped at +Newton, 431 miles from Pueblo, and 281 from Kansas.</p> + +<p>Here a phenomenon—there was a man by the road side +who walked with unsteady step, whose legs +tottered, and who lurched violently as he came down +the road at that early hour. "He is a sick man," +observed one of my friends in the train; "that gentleman +has been taking <i>medicine</i>." In the Kansas Act +there is a clause enabling physicians, in case of need, +to order stimulants for the patients without penalty; +but I am told the doctors have generally refused to act +upon that permission, so I suppose our friend had been +consulting an unlicensed practitioner.</p> + +<p>It would be ill done, when I am anxious to acknowledge +the pleasure and profit which I derived from my +passage through the State, if I did not record the +satisfaction with which I perused a volume of the +"Transactions of the Kansas Academy of Science," +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">108</a></span> +which by accident I picked up at one of the stations. +The very name speaks trumpet-tongued for the progress +which has been made in this wild region. The year +before last, the twelfth annual meeting of the Academy +was held in Topeka, and I find amongst the list of papers +read such subjects as these:—The Kansas Lepidoptera; +Kansas Minerals; the Mounds of Southern Kansas; +Recent additions to Kansas Plants; Kansas Botany; +Kansas Meteorites; Phonetic representations of Indian +Language; Sinkholes; Elementary Sounds of Language; +Mound-builders; On Recent Indian Discoveries. +And among the lecturers there was Professor +B. F. Mudge, who died last year, whose name probably +is known to a very limited number of scientific +men outside the University of Kansas. Generally the +papers contributed by the gentlemen of the State attest +industry and attainments which make their praise of +the Professor particularly valuable. It is curious +enough to pick up in a railway carriage, traversing +such a scene of comparative wildness and vast uninhabited +plains in Western Kansas, an exceedingly +interesting examination of the Helmholtz theories of +sight. The object of the lecturer would scarcely be +suspected by the reader. We had already been struck +by the extraordinary absence of signalmen, or of any +of the complex apparatus of men and machinery which +may be seen in Europe, and notably in England, to +report the progress of trains on the lines. Collisions, +however, occur in America where these precautions are +not taken, and the lecturer attributed a good deal of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">109</a></span> +these accidents to colour-blindness, which appears to +have attracted considerable attention in the United +States. Surgeons, pilots, &c., are tested for colour, +and in the army colour-blindness disqualifies the recruit +for employment in the signal corps. Altogether +the papers give an impression that in this new State +there are diligent students of natural history and +physics, and profound inquirers into all the phenomena +of life. There was a reverse to the medal.</p> + +<p>At a station where the train halted beyond Pueblo, +a card was handed to me by one of the stewards. "The +gentleman is, as he seemed very pressing, outside; but +I told him you were engaged." I started as I read the +name and address on the card, as well I might. They +indicated that an old friend whom I had left in a condition +of great bodily weakness and infirmity in London, +was close at hand in this remote region—a wonderful +if welcome fly in amber. I ran out of the drawing-room +into the next car, and there saw a man, agitated and +travel-worn, whom I had never, to the best of my belief, +seen in my life before. His story was told, if not soon, +at least in time to let me partly understand the situation +ere the train moved off. The stranger had been in the +service of the gentleman whose card he sent in to me, +but had left it to better himself in America, and had +gone out as valet to an American of good position at +Colorado Springs. He found, however, according to his +own account, that he was expected to do things not +required of a valet in his own country, such as lumbering, +wood-cutting, and the like, and so he had thrown up +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">110</a></span> +his situation and was going back to England. He had +had quite enough of Colorado Springs. "I was not +there above a month, and I was shot at twice," he said. +"Once because I made some remark in a bar-room, +where a chap was abusing Englishmen; and another +time while I was speaking in the street to a man a +fellow had a grudge against. He fired at him across +the road, and the ball whistled within a hair's-breadth +of my head." He had arrived at Pueblo some time +before our special, and as the morning was warm, +he walked into a bar near the platform, while the +engine of his train was watering, to get a glass of +lemonade. As he was drinking it, a man walked in +and called for a glass of whisky, putting down, at +the same time, what seemed to be a bank note, on the +counter. The boniface said, "I haven't got change +for this twenty-dollar bill—perhaps this gentleman +can oblige you." The unsuspecting Briton, who had +put the money for his passage to Liverpool in a purse, +drew it out to change the note, and the strange +customer at once seized it from his hand, and rushed +off towards the street with his booty. The Britisher +ran after him, but checked his wild career when he +saw, within an inch of his head, the muzzle of a revolver +which the robber had drawn, and the fellow +vanished. "Won't you help me to stop the thief; you +see what has happened?" exclaimed the victim turning +to the barman. "I guess there was no money in that +purse, sir. And if there was, perhaps you had no +more right to it than he had." Then the Briton +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">111</a></span> +dashed off after Don Guzman, shouting "police," and +was at once accosted by an officer of the Pueblo force. +He hurriedly stated the facts. The policeman smiled. +"I think you won't see that pile agin," he remarked; +"and if you don't look sharp ye'll miss yer train, that's +a fact!" The man had his railway ticket all right, a +few dollars in his pocket, and I told him I would see +him and get him a passage, if I found on inquiry his +story was true. My companions thought the tale suspicious—but +I believe it was true, and I subsequently +franked the man to England.</p> + +<p>Now here we had an exemplification of the manners +and customs of the district. Such an act of violence +and robbery might occur in London—anywhere. But +what of the apathy, or perhaps complicity, of the bar man? +And if it or they be considered not altogether +abnormal, is the conduct of the policeman to be accepted +as quite consistent with the discharge of a +policeman's duty? Well, whilst I was pondering on +these things, there came to me the best possible adviser—a +judge in this Israel—our excellent Palinurus, +Mr. White. He threw a new, if not a side light on the +subject. "Depend on it he is a confidence man. The +trains are full of them! Our conductors have express +orders about the rascals." And he explained that a +confidence man is a swindler—very often an Englishman, +who makes it his business to look out for unwary +strangers, on whom he imposes with some tale of distress, +or some recital of imaginary misfortune and +adventure. As the man I had seen was coming on in +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">112</a></span> +the train in our wake, Mr. White promised to talk +with the conductor, and find out, if he could, the truth +about the Pueblo robbery. Before dusk a telegram +was forwarded by him to me from the station where he +left us, to say that the conductor had no doubt the +man was robbed, but that it was partly his own fault, +and to warn me to be cautious in my dealings with +him.</p> + +<p>We have now been travelling straight on end for +1160 miles, with only two engineers and two firemen +and one engine, a feat of endurance which has greatly +exercised the Duke of Sutherland, who, as a practical +director of the London and North-Western Railway, +has knowledge of such matters, and who contrasts the +performance with the experience he has on the home +lines, where engines, engineers, and firemen would +have been relieved or laid up over and over again. +The head engineer of the line, who joined us, Mr. +Hackney, formerly of Congleton, had become accustomed +to these journeyings and endurances, which +were brought to the front in our conversation by the +engine-driver appearing at the door of the carriage to +claim a dollar which he had won from the Duke in a +bet that he could not do the distance without laying +up the engine for repairs.</p> + +<p>All the long Sabbath-day we travelled on through +the prairie, catching glimpses now and then of wooden +villages, around which trees were beginning to sprout +up, and of the little churches with knots of carts, +waggons, horses, and buggies outside, and people waiting +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">113</a></span> +for the end of the sermon. Now and then, perhaps +at intervals of fifteen miles or so, are places of larger +importance, such as Emporia, a rising city on the plains, +where many steeples pointed aloft indicated considerable +diversity of creed. An authority, not always to +be relied upon, stated that there are fourteen churches +belonging to the town.</p> + +<p>There was a parting symposium in the second +Pullman ere we reached Topeka. Mr. White, Major +Anderson, General Brown, Mr. Jerome, and my much +wandering compatriot, a veritable Irish Ulysses, raised +the tuneful melodies of the "Golden Slipper," the +"Little Brown Jug," and the other tender psalmodies +which had whiled away so many hours, for the last time +in our society, and the little gages which were but the +outward and visible signs of the regard we felt for our +friends were exchanged with honest effusion. There +may be—nay, there are—many jealousies and causes of +estrangement between the people of the Old Country +and of the New, but between the individuals of both +there is a <i>camaraderie</i> which cannot, I believe, be found +between Englishmen and the natives of any country +except America.</p> + +<p>"Good bye! God bless you! Be sure if ever you +come to England you shall have a hearty welcome from +me." "And from me!" "And me!" "And me!" +The engine bell tolled, and we moved slowly on.</p> + +<p>And we were left all alone! The pleasant companions +of so many weeks had gone! I wonder if they +missed us as much as we missed them? +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">114</a></span></p> + +<p>While travelling across the Rockies and the desert to +San Francisco and back, our course of life was pretty uniform, +and one day followed another with almost perfect +resemblance in the mode of existence and in all things +except the scenery and the country through which we +were passing. First, in the early morning came one +of the attendants to our bedside with a cup of coffee, +and then the curtains of the little cubicle were thrown +aside and you looked out on either plain, or mountain, +or river, or col; and on the faces of early risers at doors +or windows as the train passed through some rising +town. At one end of the saloon there was a bath-room, +and from the tank there was always to be obtained +sufficient water for the purpose of an early dip, which +was enjoyed as occasion offered in turn by the party. +Then a cigarette. Then we dropped in as people do at +a country house, into the sitting-room, and exchanged +ideas as to the progress made during the night, and the +stoppages, wondered where we were, and had a little +conversation with the conductor or Arthur as to the +place where we could stop or get the papers—and so +got over the morning till 9 o'clock, when breakfast was +announced, consisting of fish, poultry, meat, fruit (I +had nearly said flowers, for there was always a bouquet +on the table), tea, coffee, and cold dishes, with abundance +of milk and butter. Where the fish came from and how +they were kept fresh was matter of wonder, for the instances +were very rare in which there was any indication +that it had not quite recently come out of the sea or the +river. The supply of ice was liberal and unfailing, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">115</a></span> +and whenever we stopped at any considerable station +the whole disposable strength of the attendants in the +train was employed in grappling with large blocks of +it and stowing it away in the ice reservoir, in which +were the larder and the cellar for such wines as needed +cooling, and for the vegetables and meat, of which there +were great stores constantly laid in. Then after +breakfast there was reading or sight-seeing, investigating +the line, examining the maps, receiving visits +and returning them in other parts of the train, till in +the very hot days it was necessary, after expelling the +flies, which were troublesome on occasion, to draw the +dust-blinds and the curtains of the carriages, to mitigate +the fierceness of the sun. It was objected occasionally +that by this process we deprived ourselves of the opportunity +of what was called "seeing the country," but +after all a glance now and then is quite sufficient to +reveal the general character of the districts through +which the train is running; and the most diligent and +painstaking observer cannot keep his eyes fixed steadily +for a day on the external aspects of the region through +which he is travelling. I should be sorry to declare +that every one was wide awake all the time of the forenoon +and up to the period of lunch, which too often +exceeded on the side of many dishes, being, in fact, a +mid-day dinner; but then no one was obliged to eat +more than he liked, or drink either. Then came +the longest stretch of the day, and at its close +another banquet; and as the sun declined and the +temperature decreased, we could take more pleasure in +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">116</a></span> +looking out at the fantastic forms of the vegetation +which clothed the arid rocks in the desert, or on the +bright green prairie, or on the towering mountains, +waiting till the sun had set, generally in a blaze of +glory. There were, of course, interruptions and variations +as we halted at the more important places; +disappointments about letters which had been telegraphed +for and which were expected day after day, +constituted also a matter of conversation and discourse. +There was an harmonium in the sitting-room of the +palace car, but no one had the art of playing it, +although we had plenty of music of another sort; for +after dinner the gentlemen of the railroad party who +had not dined with us came in, and we were never +tired of listening to the songs, so original and amusing, +which they gave with great spirit and admirable +time and tune, for it happened they all possessed good +voices, and the melodies with which the troops of +coloured minstrels have now rendered the world +familiar were then new to us.</p> + +<p>During the whole of our tour the weather has been +most favourable. With the exception of the rainy days +in Canada, and the cold and rawness which characterised +the time of our short visit to Richmond, there was +nothing worse to complain of than continual sunshine. +Now and then the temperature was a little too good to +be pleasant when we were traversing the beds of the +dry seas in the desert in Colorado and California, but +that was something to look back upon with satisfaction, +because there was no time lost in keeping within doors +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">117</a></span> +owing to the rain and storm or cold. "Within doors," +however, is a phrase scarcely applicable to our mode of +life, as it would imply that we were in stable habitations, +whereas, as will have been seen by those who +have accompanied us so far, we "lived and moved, and +had our being" in railway carriages; a mode of life +rendered so comfortable by all appliances, that it was +sometimes no relief to be told that we would have to +pass the night at an hotel.</p> + +<p>For nine days and nine nights in succession, on one +occasion, we never slept out of the carriages or got out +of the train except to take a stroll about the station, or +a peep into the street of a small town whilst we were +waiting, and one got quite accustomed to that nomad +and yet civilised mode of existence, where at every +halting-place we were supplied with the latest intelligence +by the local papers, and made the recipients of +some attention or courtesy, visits and compliments (the +remarks of the other sort not being many), bouquets of +flowers, presents of fruit, and plenty of conversation. +But that my critics might say I dilate too much upon +the material enjoyment of life, I would describe at +length the means which were supplied in the course of +these long journeys for animal enjoyment. Never could +there be found more attentive and obliging domestics +than the coloured men who waited upon us—Arthur +and his fellows. There lived in the kitchen compartment +of the train, at the end of one of the saloons, a +coloured cook, very intelligent and gossipy, full of +quaint conceits and dishes and conversation, who +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">118</a></span> +commenced life as a slave on a Southern plantation, +probably adopted for indoor purposes on account of his +smartness. He liberated himself in the course of the +war, and marched off with a regiment of Federals in +the capacity of cook and body-servant to one of the +officers, wherein he saw a great amount of very hard +fighting at very close quarters. This adventurous +modern Othello was wont to discourse with much animation +when he came out for a breath of fresh air on +the platform and could find anybody to talk to him, +although he could move no more tender heart than +that of Sir Henry Green. The gentlemen of the +Atchison, &c., Railway, when travelling with us, had +a <i>cordon bleu</i> in the saloon—an Italian or Frenchman, +I think, or at all events a French-speaking man, who +had served also, and would have done credit to an +establishment where faults in a <i>chef</i> would not lightly +be condoned. In the interchange of courtesies, Mr. +White and his friends invited our party now and then +to dine in the saloon, which was not "across the way," +but up a little, on the line, being the saloon in front +of us.</p> + +<p>But here we are at Kansas City once again! At +5.30 <span class="s08">P.M.</span> the train arrived at the platform, which was +gay with a Sunday crowd, of whom many were negresses—black, +brown, brindled, and yellow <i>citoyennes</i>—in +much variety of colour and garmenting. Unlike Samson, +their weakness is in their hair, and like Achilles, they +are vulnerable about the heels (to the arrows of an +æsthetical criticism, which accepts the Greek idea of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">119</a></span> +beauty in form); but they seemed to enjoy life amazingly, +and not to be in need of beaux; perhaps the +happiest people in the world now that their chattel +days are over. It was late when we turned into our +berths, for it was a lovely night and the fire-flies exercised +a great attraction over us, but at last the charm +was worn out and we slept till morning without a +break.</p> + +<p><i>June 20th.</i>—Still the same boundless plain. In vain +does one look for the grass fields with close, even, +carpet-like surface to be seen in Europe. We are still +passing through exceedingly rich land—the fields covered +with flocks of sheep and herds of good-looking cattle. +There are more trees by the stream-side, and shrubs +growing in the hollows. Habitations are more frequent, +and so are fencing and planting. As the sun was +setting we approached St. Louis. There were some +park-like glades, and vistas opening up to pleasant +mansions, amid grounds showing marks of culture. +There had been a severe thunderstorm the night before, +and the St. Louis Station had still traces of its effects +in pools of mud. But the rain had cooled the air, and +the people were rejoicing exceedingly in the great +improvement that had taken place in the weather, for, +they told us, men and women had been dropping down +with the heat a few days ago as though they had been +struck by musketry.</p> + +<p>The appearance of the St. Louis Terminus gave +one a high idea of the importance of this city. Eight +trains were waiting on their respective lines to start +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">120</a></span> +with passengers to all parts of the Union; and by +the simple device of placing at the end of each train +a large board announcing its destination and the time +of its departure, much anxiety was saved to intending +passengers, not to speak of the irritation of officials +avoided by this simple expedient. The journey was +continued by the <a name="Indianopolis" id="Indianopolis">Indianopolis</a> and Vandalia, and by +what is called the "Pa'handle" line to the Pennsylvania +Railroad on to Philadelphia. The train was timed +on Tuesday so that we were able to see the famous +passage over the Alleghany Mountains from Conemaugh +to Altoona. For nearly eleven miles we were +carried without steam, and with the brakes on, through +very fine scenery, down the mountain-side, but the +summit was crossed in the darkness of a tunnel 1200 +yards long. There are some striking engineering +feats in the way of curves and gradients, and the +trace of the line is very bold all the way down to +Altoona, where the Pennsylvania Railroad engine and +machinery shops are established—the centre of a +population of some 17,000 souls, where twenty years +ago "there were," as a friend said, "only bears, +deer, woodpeckers, and skallywags." The Duke, Mr. +Stephen, and our railway experts got out and visited +the workshops, and came back very much pleased at +the discovery of several London and North-Western +men in good positions in the Pennsylvania Railroad +Company's service, who welcomed their old directors +with effusion, and that there was nothing visible there +for Crewe to copy, unless perhaps cast-iron wheels. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">121</a></span> +The speed at which we travelled was a sensible proof +that we were once more on the line of our old friends +of Pennsylvania. From Altoona to Harrisburg, 132 +miles, we rattled along in two hours and forty-three +minutes. On another stretch of the line we travelled +eighty-three miles in one hour and forty-two seconds, +including stoppages; and the rapid motion was very +agreeable, as there was a perceptible increase of temperature +after we reached the plains and approached +the beautiful valley of the Susquehannah—a scene of +industry, prosperity, and peace. Fortunately there +was a good light on the river, and we had a fine +view of the country all the way to Harrisburg under +the rays of the setting sun. A little farther on we +were gratified by the appearance of General Roberts +at a station on the way, where he was awaiting the +Duke to congratulate him on his safe return from +the Western expedition, and we bade him farewell at +his own house, with many sincere and well-deserved +acknowledgments of great and constant kindness. +Then over the river by the noble bridge, and on to +Philadelphia. We did not visit Pittsburg, which was +vomiting out masses of smoke, nor did we halt this +time at the capital of the Quaker State. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">122</a></span></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER VI.<br /> +NEW YORK—NEWPORT—DEPARTURE.</h2> + +<p class="chapsum"> +Coney Island—Newport—Bass-fishing—Habit of Spitting—Brighton +Beach—Newport—Coaching—Extra Ecclesiam—Victories +of American Horses—Newport Avenues—Return to New +York—Our last day in America. +</p> + +<p>The special train was detained by the immense +amount of traffic on the line, as we approached New +York, and we did not reach Brooklyn till a little +before 11 <span class="s08">P.M.</span> on June 21, so that it was past midnight +when we ascended the steps of the Windsor +Hotel, which we had selected by way of a change, +and found to be every way commendable, with the +exception of its distance from the busy parts of the +city. The following day was devoted to letter reading +and writing, receiving visitors, and various attempts +"to go out," which were not generally successful, for +New York was palpitating with the intense heat. The +"heated term" was in full vigour, but it was now +quite temperate in comparison to the excesses which +had marked its advent some time before our arrival. +In the evening we got up strength and courage +enough to go to Wallack's Theatre, a very pretty, +well-constructed house, and saw "The World" excellently +acted and admirably put on the stage. Next +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">123</a></span> +day, June 23rd, in virtue of a solemn league and +covenant with Uncle Sam and Mr. Hurlbut, the Duke +and I devoted ourselves to fresh fields and pastures new, +and ordered ourselves accordingly for Coney Island. +A long bank of sand by the sea-shore has, by an +accident, become one of the most crowded resorts in the +world, and to-day there were races in the new ground. +It was not, as we found, so easy to get there. Having +the advantage of two experienced guides, our party of +four managed to break up into two and to miss each +other; one taking the boat at one iron pier, and the +other embarking by a different mode of conveyance. +But as we were bound to see Coney Island, the Race course +being a secondary object, our temporary separation +did not prove a source of great annoyance.</p> + +<p>The early settlers would indeed have been astonished +if they could look round and see what they have +brought the quiet place to in these later days. They +were Quakers persecuted by the good Christians of New +England, who were driven out of Boston as ruthlessly +as though they had been malignants and papists of the +worst sort. They settled the township of Gravesend +about 250 years ago, and amongst the conspicuous +settlers occurs the title and name of Lady Deborah +Moody, of whom this deponent knows nothing, but +wonders how, with such a title, she managed to have +influence amongst a Society of Friends.</p> + +<p>A ship was built, so the Americans say, of 70 tons in +1699, by the descendants of the Quaker settlers, and less +than 100 years later the bold republicans, abandoning +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">124</a></span> +the doctrines of peace, engaged and captured an English +corvette off the island. It was all along of General +<a name="How" id="How">How</a>, who landed his troops here and set the people to +work on the fortifications he threw up, whether they +would or no. A corvette, bound to Halifax, anchored +off the island, and an old whaler, who, says the +chronicler, must have been smarting under the wrongs +he had suffered at the hands of the red-coats, or who +possibly regarded the work as he would the capture of +a finner or a bottle-nose, imparted to a few trusty +friends the idea of "cutting her out." So embarking +at night in a couple of boats, they stole down with +muffled oars and ran up under the stern of the ship. +There was no watch, and through the cabin windows +the officers could be seen playing cards. The crews of +the boats boarded the corvette simultaneously, seized, +overpowered, and bound the officers and men, lowered +them into their boats, and, having set the man-of-war +on fire, pulled over to the Jersey shore with their +prisoners. It is to be hoped that the demeanour and +language of the captain have been misrepresented by +local tradition; but he is said to have cried bitterly, +and to have exclaimed, "To be surprised and captured +by two blooming egg-shells is too blasted bad!"</p> + +<p>There was a long period of neglect before Fashion +and the populace found out the attractions of Coney +Island. Fishermen, oyster-catchers, and sportsmen +visited the sandy beach from time to time; then after +a while a few houses were run up of a very inferior +class, and these were frequented by the very worst of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">125</a></span> +the scum of New York, so that it was almost dangerous, +and certainly disgusting, to go among them, while the +scenes on the beach, to which the present proceedings +afford such a contrast, were described as being of the +most disgraceful character.</p> + +<p>The official directions for spending a day at Coney +Island certainly indicate a belief in the possession of +enormous physical energy and indefatigable curiosity on +the part of the visitors in those who compose the code. +Having given you sailing instructions by the iron steam boat +to Bay Ridge for the Sea Beach Railway (ticket +35 cents), you are to visit the Sea View Palace Hotel, +the Piazza, the two iron piers, the <i>Camera obscura</i> +(10 cents), the Great Milking Cow, the top of the observatory +(15 cents); then to eat a Rhode Island clam bake +(50 cents), visit the aquarium (10 cents), take a +park waggon and ride over the Concourse to Brighton; +see the hotel grounds and bathing pavilion there; +then take the Marine Railway (5 cents) to Manhattan +Beach; visit the Oriental Hotel and take the Marine +Railway to Point Breeze (10 cents) and return back +to Brighton Beach Pavilion and take a bath; then see +the Museum of Living Wonders (10 cents), dine at the +Hotel Brighton, hear a concert in the evening, and +return to New York by 11 o'clock. "This trip," +observes the compiler, "may fatigue one, but the +excitement soon overcomes the trouble." Coney +Island is indeed an institution.</p> + +<p>Along the sea front of the bank for some three or four +miles there has been constructed an esplanade lined +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">126</a></span> +with seats, and defended from the sea by a stone wall. +Outside there is a belt of shingle on which the surf +breaks, but not violently, unless in bad weather. Large +bathing establishments, with every appliance, are placed +at convenient intervals along the shore. Here in the +season tens of thousands of people may be seen, all +properly and decently attired, disporting in the waves. +At the time of our visit, the hour and the season +of the year seemed not to be favourable to the indulgence. +We were too late in the day. It is an +early place, and from 7 till 9 <span class="s08">A.M.</span> from the month +of June to the end of September are described as +the orthodox periods. Nevertheless the spectacle was +quite unique, and if you can imagine Brighton with +half-a-dozen Pavilions blown out to twice their size, +and the largest hotels multiplied by ten in length, +breadth, and depth, you may fancy what the Coney +Island front is, provided always that you can also +conjure up (literally) myriads of well-dressed men, +women, and children perambulating the esplanade or +sitting in the grounds around the various establishments +which occupy a large space inland—pavilions, +hotels, exhibitions, restaurants, and club-houses. There +were fireworks going on in broad day; but these were +principally for the purpose of exhibiting very ingenious +Japanese figures, which were discharged from bombs, +and which gradually descending were objects of eager +competition amongst the younger members of the +enormous multitude. And with all so much good-humour, +so much propriety of demeanour; none of the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">127</a></span> +brutal rushes of "roughs" which disgust one with +English popular assemblages—none of the brutal horse-play, +and screams, and unmeaning cries of the 'Arrys +and the Bills of our popular resorts.</p> + +<p>Looking at Mr. Marshall's excellent book on the +United States, which we found to be copious and +accurate, I was struck by what he says respecting +a habit of the people which, according to my experience, +has very much decreased since I was last +in the States, but which he finds in as full force, and +repulsive as ever. I am bound to say I think the +habit of spitting has very much diminished, but from +numerous evidences, from the presence of spittoons in +every room and in the passages of the hotels, and +from public admonitions, such as one we saw at some +of the theatres, that the audience would not spit upon +the stage, I must believe that it still exists. What +the cause of this habit may be it is not easy to determine. +It cannot be in the race, because it is +scarcely an "English" habit. I would be inclined to +attribute it to the drinking of iced water, but ladies in +America use the national beverage quite as freely as +the men, and spitting is a masculine failing. Can it +be a result of climate? Scarcely. For in the States, +British-born people do not seem to be affected by the +influence of the habit in those around them after +many years' residence. Smokers and non-smokers alike +indulge in the practice, so that tobacco cannot be +charged with the disagreeable custom. I assume that +it is as common as Mr. Marshall asserts it is, but +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">128</a></span> +I am bound to say, according to my own observation +and experience on my last visit, that there was no +evidence to show that it was common or national. +Chewing tobacco also appears to me to have fewer +votaries than formerly. A remark to that effect at +Richmond brought upon me something like a rebuke +from the gentleman to whom I spoke, a Judge of the +land. "No, sir," he said, "not at all! I rather think +we chew more than ever!" And, to illustrate his faith, +he produced a silver box, shaped a plug of no doubt +very excellent weed, and thrust it into his mouth. I +do not recollect, however, meeting a gentleman in the +course of our journey who used tobacco in that way, +with that exception.</p> + +<p>In the grounds in front of the pavilion, where an +excellent orchestra of some one hundred performers +were playing, sat a very large and appreciative audience, +who applauded with discrimination, and were content +with the good performance of each piece.</p> + +<p>Our common rendezvous was the Surf Club, one of +the numerous convivial associations for which Coney +Island seems to be specially adapted; and I presume +the name had nothing at all to do with any supposed +amusements of the members in connection with the +surf on the beach outside. There was some difficulty +in finding our way through a labyrinth of rooms all +filled with guests: with corridors swarming with +people; with vast halls, where at hundreds of tables +there were seated people engaged in the consumption +of the <i>menu</i> of a Coney Island restaurant, abounding +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">129</a></span> +in strange dishes and attended by armies of waiters. +At a rough guess, I should say there may have been +about 4000 people in the building—and this was but +one of several—I think the Brighton Beach Hotel, +but of this I am not quite sure.</p> + +<p>When the Prospect Park and Coney Island Railroad +was opened none believed in its success, but the foresight +of the projector was justified; and when it was +found that respectable people would go there, if the +vagabonds of both sexes and their associates were +driven away, the police asserted themselves, and swept +off the gamblers and the others of a still more +dangerous class, who were to be found there in +increasing numbers every year; and then hotels were +erected and landing-places made for the steamers; +and now the electric light blazes in a hundred +halls, and music and rejoicing sound late into the +night, contending with the noise of the surf upon the +beach. Bowling-alleys, shooting-grounds, archery, +croquet, sailing and rowing, all invite some of the +visitors, according to their tastes. An amusing exemplification +of the ingenuity of American advertisers is +afforded by the sailing vessels, which display in enormous +characters on their main-sails the names of quack +medicines, from which no corner of this continent +appears to be safe.</p> + +<p>On June 24th the party, which had been somewhat +dislocated, reunited their scattered forces, and at +2 <span class="s08">P.M.</span> started by train after a little repose, for Newport, +R.I. It was a kind of holiday after our travels, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">130</a></span> +but somewhat out of place, for we were told the +Ocean House was scarcely ready; but we should not +have found it out, had we not been informed of the +fact. The newspapers had been on the alert, and soon +after the Duke's arrival visitors began to call and +invitations to pour in—some well-nigh irresistible, for +they included opportunities for experiences of bass-fishing.</p> + +<p><i>June 25th.</i>—Newport has not yet put on its festive +attire. It is not the season, and we ought not to be +here. Nevertheless it is still so pleasant, and so respectably +dull, that one enjoys it amazingly. After +breakfast we walked down to the seashore and sat +gazing on vacancy, and on three yellow ladies collecting +clams. Returning thence in a very hot sun, ran to +earth in the hotel where, presently, there were many +visitors; and how kind and anxious to please they +were! Mr. Fearing drove up later on the top of a drag, +and whirled us away to a charming fishing-box on the +shore, in order to judge for ourselves what bass-fishing +was like. It was a very pretty drive, and Mr. Fearing +handled his "four" as if he were bent on joining the +Coaching Club—not indiscreetly, as the horses were +not accustomed to going together, but with satisfactory +decision—and we all were landed without mishap by +the side of the road, close to one of the best-organised +sporting-boxes I have ever seen, built entirely for the +comfort and delectation of Mr. Fearing and two or +three friends who own the bass-fishing stands, at the +end of one of which a gentleman was then busily +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">131</a></span> +engaged in his pastime, for the sea comes rolling up +upon the rocks within some forty or fifty yards of the +sward of the green meadows on which the house is +placed. From it projects into the breakers a platform +supported on iron pillars, at the end of which there is +an enlargement of the structure to enable the fisherman +and his attendants to stand at their ease—the one +in hurling the bait and the other in preparing it. +And first, as a proof that the labour is not futile, there +was exhibited a terrible-headed monster with great +scales, which had been caught that morning by Mr. +Whipple—a bass of 57 lbs. weight, of which I think +the skull and jaws and gills must have weighed a third. +The fishing is not, as I found, to be done at once, but +needs a little practice. The art of casting consists in +the double operation of jerking the bait from the top +of a stiff rod, and checking the run of the line without +permitting it to overrun, which it is very apt to do in +an inexperienced hand, by a pressure of the thumb on +the reel, just sufficient to let the weight of the bait carry +out the hook to the farthest stretch of the jerk. The +rod, not more than eight or nine feet long, a work of +great art, and costly, is furnished with a reel, also very +expensive, containing a couple of hundred yards of +prepared line. At the end is a large single hook, +sometimes secured to a piece of piano-wire, as the +"blue fish" will cut through the strongest cord or +gut. To this is fixed a junk of fat oily fish, of which +supplies are kept in a basket close at hand, to be cut +up for ever and ever by the attendant, and ever and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">132</a></span> +anon pieces are chucked into the sea, and being of +a very unctuous nature, the oil rising to the top, floats +away on the surface of the water, and attracts the bass +within measurable distance of the platform. Captain +Fearing threw, Mr. Whipple threw, and the gentlemen +at the end of another pier emulated them, and pounds, +perhaps stones, of bait were thrown into the sea, but +the bass, which are capricious, like most fish, were not +to be caught; and so after a time we returned to the +cottage.</p> + +<p>I was, unfortunately, unable to accept an invitation +from one of the many hospitable gentlemen in Newport, +to go out and spend the evening on a desolate +island, where they are said generally to have exceedingly +good sport, in order to get up before sunrise the +following morning and essay my skill, or want of it, in +bass-fishing. Mr. Wright, an enthusiastic sportsman, +availed himself of a like invitation with great pleasure +and with many anticipations of delight, but on Monday +morning he returned weather-beaten back, and boot-less +and bass-less home, although he assured me he +enjoyed himself very much, and had very agreeable +company out at sea on the rock.</p> + +<p>The following day (June 26th) was cloudy and cool, +and all that was of rank and fashion in Newport went +to All Souls Church. There are many churches in +Newport, and in the height of the season, each is, I am +told, well filled on Sundays. And wonderful it is that +there is neither dissension nor controversy among the +congregations. They mingle together coming and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">133</a></span> +going, affording to me, who have been accustomed at +times to observe the manners and customs of my +country men and women on like occasions in Ireland +and elsewhere, ground for wonder, not unintermingled +with an ardent desire that we, nearer home, could learn +the secret of this moderation.</p> + +<p>Mr. Bridgman, our fellow-passenger in the "<i>Gallia</i>," +is enjoying his <i>villeggiatura</i> with his wife and family in +a pretty little cottage. We were very much pleased +indeed to renew our acquaintance with him, although +there was no scope for the display of his fine talents +as a salad-maker. It was not foggy enough for the +ladies, who delight in a thick and moist <i>brume</i> from +the Banks, and who sit at the open windows when it +comes on for the sake of their complexions, as it is +esteemed a sovereign cosmetic beyond Maydew or +Kalydor. Whether it be rightly credited with these +virtues or not, I can answer for the presence of many +fair ladies in church, and on their way to and fro in +the streets. We dined with Mr. and Mrs. Keene, who +reside in one of the best villas of the many charming +dwellings in Newport.</p> + +<p>The victories of the American horses in France and +England created an enthusiasm in the States almost as +intense as though they had been won by the national +fleets or armies. From one end of the Union to the +other the news was flashed the same day, and we saw the +names of the conquerors in large letters in every newspaper. +Unfortunately there came at the same time +reports of foul play to American competitors at the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">134</a></span> +hands of some English roughs, and there was a good +deal of heat caused by the objections taken to the +entry of the "Cornell Crew" at Henley. These international +contests should be very carefully conducted +and judiciously worked, or they will do more harm +than good, if indeed they do any good at all. The +injurious insinuations respecting the age of Foxhall +could but excite indignation in the minds of honourable +men against whom they were directed.</p> + +<p>There is a State House in the town, and there is +also a mansion occupied by Commodore Perry, but +the most useful inhabitant of the place appears to +have been one Abraham Touro, a Jew, who gave his +name to the park, a cemetery, a synagogue, and a +street. Altogether there is rather an old-world air +and look in the town; but one must go along the +Avenues to have an idea of the charms which lead so +many of the principal families of the Eastern States +to make the place a resort when they are not enjoying +the delights of travel in Europe, or that blissful +existence which endears Paris to our Transatlantic +relatives. Bellevue Avenue is bordered by a number +of very sprightly dwellings, of every order and disorder +of architecture, and rejoicing in all the extraordinary +richness and elaboration of American workmanship +in wood, each standing in a little park of its +own, generally rich with trees, shrubs, and an ornamental +garden. Several of these interiors, as we +had reason to know, were furnished in the very best +taste, and filled with objects of art, excellent examples +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">135</a></span> +of good masters, principally foreign, and articles +imported from all the corners of the globe. Of +an afternoon the ladies might be seen driving, in +very well turned-out carriages, to some rendezvous +where lawn-tennis or a picnic awaited them; and +altogether, even at this time of year, Newport +presented a picture of great refinement and comfort, +which enable the visitor to understand how attractive +it must be in the height of the season, and why it is +Americans are so fond of life in Rhode Island.</p> + +<p>I am not in a position to throw the smallest doubt +upon the statement that the mass of stones in the +form of a tower, ivy and moss covered, and evidently +the work of human hands, was not built by the hardy +Norsemen hundreds of years before the arrival of +Columbus. There are, moreover, people who declare +that the erection is due to a British governor of the +colony, when it was more prosperous as a commercial +resort, though not so fashionable as it is at present. +But American antiquaries take a great pleasure in +propping up the proofs which have been adduced of +Scandinavian enterprise and discovery on the continent, +many centuries before Vespuccius, Columbus, and +the English navigators lived.</p> + +<p>We dined on the evening of the 27th at the house +of Mr. Shattock, a gentleman of New York, who had +assembled a party of very pleasant people to meet the +Duke, and kindly hastened his dinner-hour to suit +our convenience, as we were obliged to go on board +the Fall River boat, which called at 9.30 <span class="s08">P.M.</span> to take +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">136</a></span> +up passengers for the Empire City. There was some +difficulty about getting cabins or state rooms as they +are called, but "Uncle Sam," who came from New +York to consort with us quietly, applied himself +diligently to telegraph wires, telephones, and the like, +and when the great steamer came alongside the wharf +our dormitories were ready. The night was calm and +fine. There was an excellent band, quite worthy of +being called an orchestra, on board, which played to +the delight of a large audience till it was bed-time. +As a "sight" for a foreigner, nothing could be more +striking than the vast saloon, brilliantly illuminated, +with hundreds of people on sofas, chairs, and benches, +reading or conversing in the intervals of the music, +and presenting infinite varieties of type and class, yet +all so orderly and well-behaved; and if you moved +quietly through the crowd, your ear caught many +strange languages interpolating the American speech—German, +French, Polish, Russian, Italian, and, perhaps +the natives would say, British. There is some +care observed in the locking up of cabins, and I believe +there are detectives and police on board the boats; +but it is said they do not look after the morals of the +passengers, and concern themselves only with vested +interests in portable property. There was no sea on, +and the only motion was caused by the beating of the +paddles and the throbbing of the engine, and early in +the morning of the next day we were at our quarters +in our comfortable hotel in the Fifth Avenue.</p> + +<p><i>June 29th.</i>—And yet more excursions. Bound by +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">137</a></span> +a long-standing engagement, a small detachment of our +party set out this evening to visit Mr. Barlow at his +country place, Long Island, which travellers, perhaps, +have not much occasion to see. The Mayor of New York +(Mr. Grace) and Mr. O'Gorman were on the steamer +which took the Duke, Mr. S. Ward, Mr. Hurlbut, and +our host down the Sound, and were introduced to us +by Mr. Barlow. The first-named gentleman I mentioned +in one of the early pages of this diary in connection +with the vigorous efforts to purify the civic +atmosphere made by him on his accession to office. I +learn that he has since obtained a large measure of +success, and let me hope corresponding thanks from +his fellow-citizens. Attacks on corrupt influences are +apt to receive lukewarm support from the politicians. +The power of the respectable classes, which hold aloof +from politics, is not large. Mr. Grace had more opposition +than help from his own countrymen, who have +been long nearly omnipotent in New York, and who +monopolise a large proportion of the civic offices and +employment. Mr. O'Gorman, one of the traversers +with O'Connell in the famous State trials, is one of the +leading lawyers of New York, and is held in much +respect by his fellow-citizens. The "old Country" is +still dear to him, but I seemed to gather from his +remarks that he shared in the distrust which American +lawyers generally expressed respecting the principle of +the Land Bill then under discussion as far as interference +with the law of contract—"the very foundation +of social life"—was involved. Glen Cove is +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">138</a></span> +a beautiful place, standing high above the level of +the sea, and commanding charming views of the +sound and of the opposite shore. It is surrounded +by trees, ornamented by woodland and fine natural +groves, broken up by ravines, through which trickle +streams of water. The mansion is furnished with +every comfort and luxury, and we had a garden to +saunter about in the morning, and a genial hostess to +talk to, and her fair daughter to sing for us, so that +it would have pleased us well to have made a longer +sojourn at Glen Cove. Here we passed two very +peaceful days, part of Wednesday and Thursday, and +in a pleasant drive with our host in the early morning +had some slight outlook on umbrageous Long +Island. "<i>O! si angulus iste!</i>" It is 115 miles long +and 14 miles broad, and quite big enough for me! +And there be deer in the woods and trout in the rivers, +and fish in all the creeks, and game in the wooded +lagoons, and forest, lake, and civilised life, and many +things to please the eye; and then the comet was so +good as to display his glories and his tail before +Glen Cove. But our time of departure from the States +was drawing near, and there were still things to be +done in New York, and many engagements to be kept, +ere we started on our homeward journey on July 2nd; +and at 12.35 on the 30th June the Duke and I took +the "cars" at a rural station, and reached New York +at 2.35, in time for a run through Tiffany's and some +little shopping and visiting. There was a dinner +arranged by "Uncle Sam" at "Sutherland's" in +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">139</a></span> +honour of the famous city restaurant. The house is +one of a type which has, I believe, disappeared in the +"City," where once flourished famous establishments +such as Williams' Beef Shop in the Old Bailey, Dolly's +in Paternoster Row, the Billingsgate Fish Ordinary, +Jacquet's, &c., like it in character. Great New Yorkers +do not disdain to cross the threshold, within which +they find admirable fare and excellent wines—the +national delights of clam chowder, clam soup, soft-shell +crabs, and many other Transatlantic delicacies—at +the far end of Broadway, still holding its own against +the fashionable restaurants. Of the party who dined +there with Chancellor Robertson and others in 1861, +only "Uncle Sam," Mr. S. Barlow, and I survive; but +the host, a granitic sort of man, with a kindly Scottish +heart warming the case inside, seems capable of +presiding over his feasts for another generation.</p> + +<p><i>July 1st.</i>—It was difficult to realise the idea that +this was our last day in America, but the truth was +forced on us by the practical duties of getting the +baggage ready and settling up generally, ending with +a dinner at the Turf Club, where we met Mr. Keene, of +Foxhall fame, who had also entertained us at Newport, +Mr. Jerome, Mr. Stuart, Mr. Travers, and other +fathers of the New York sporting world, which seems +very like our own, and had to drink madeira of all but +fabulous antiquity and excellence. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">140</a></span></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER VII.<br /> +RETURN TO EUROPE.</h2> + +<p class="chapsum"> +The "<i>City of Berlin</i>"—The Inman Line—The Service at Roche's +Point—Queenstown Discomforts—A sorry Welcome Home. +</p> + +<p><i>July 2nd.</i><a name="FNanchor_B" id="FNanchor_B" href="#Footnote_B" class="fnanchor">[B]</a>—Up at 5.30. The Duke, Lady Green, +Sir Henry, Mr. Wright, Edward, all engaged in the +transport department, with Mr. Trowbridge in observation; +incessant activity. The Queen Anne coach +was in readiness at 7.30, and in half an hour more we +were discharged at the Inman wharf. There was +a great flotilla—five large steamers leaving at the +same period for Liverpool, and there was the usual +throng at the landing-places of friends to bid "good-bye" +to those who were about to cross the Atlantic. +The steamer we had selected belonged to the Inman +line, and whatever there may have been wanting to +the eye on board, compared to the trimness and paint +of the Cunard steamers, there was nothing to regret +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">141</a></span> +in our accommodation or service. There were so many +passengers that the dining-saloon, illuminated by the +electric light—which was also used for the purpose of +lighting the engine-room and the lamps in the +corridors—would not contain them all at the same +time, and so there were two messes for dinner. Epergnes +filled with the most beautiful flowers were ranged in +order, and a rampant war-steed composed of white +roses was displayed on the table. I am not about +to give a log-book, or to trespass on the patience of +my readers by an account of such an ordinary event +as a passage home. The second day after we left New +York was the anniversary of Independence, July 4th, +and the day was duly celebrated by the citizens of the +United States, who constituted the large majority of +our fellow-passengers. The "stars and stripes" were +hoisted at the main, and the cabin was draped with +British and American flags. But there was no +speechifying, and the spread-eagle was content with +moderate flights; a recitation and a song or two, and +the fire of champagne corks, being the only indications +of an extraordinary festivity.</p> + +<p>About this time of the year the Atlantic, in the latitudes +which we traverse, is rather vexed of fogs; and +if one be disposed to low spirits, I know nothing which +weighs upon him more than the sound of the fog-horn. +But what must it be for the captain, who is perforce +obliged to go at full speed, or as near to it as he +can, with the expectation every moment of some startled +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">142</a></span> +cry from the bow "Sail right ahead!" Nor is it quite +out of the running that an iceberg may be taking a +sail across his course. Fortunately we had no experiences +of the kind; and as night was falling on the +10th July land was in sight.</p> + +<p>The lights of the Fastnet were seen through drifting +haze, and about 10 o'clock at night the "<i>City of +Berlin</i>" steamed through a rising sea, with a strong +beam wind, into the roadstead of Roche's Point, +burned her rockets, and laid-to for the steamer to +take the mails, and those passengers who had decided +to land, on shore.</p> + +<p>It was blowing freshly, and rain fell heavily; and +as we looked down from the lighted decks on the +murky water, and made out the tug as she paddled up +to us, rising and falling on the waves, we were seized +with reasonable misgivings as to the propriety of +leaving our ship and taking to such a craft. I am +bound to say that our experience more than amply +justified them.</p> + +<p>I am writing these lines with a very faint hope +that any amendment will be introduced, in consequence +of what I say, into the abominable service between the +American vessels off Roche's Point and Queenstown. +In fine weather and in daylight it is not of much +consequence, perhaps, what discomfort one may be +exposed to in a short passage to the shore; but to +affront women and children with the misery which +must be experienced at night time and in bad +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">143</a></span> +weather, in the steamers employed in the service, +is little short of barbarous, if it be not indeed altogether +so.</p> + +<p>After I had got down upon the deck of the little +steamer and surveyed the scene around me, I thought +that it would have been much wiser to have gone on +with my friends to Liverpool; but I had some engagements +in Ireland, and so had the experience I was glad +not to share with my fellow-passengers, on whom I +should have liked the old country to have made a +favourable impression. There was the great steamer, +with hundreds of waving hands, and the sound of +friendly voices bidding us "God speed," a blaze of +lights, and almost as steady as the solid earth, as the +horrible little tug puffed away, and, getting from +under her lee at once, encountered the swell. If she +could have ridden over the water below, she certainly +could not escape that which came down from above; +so that we were all pretty wet and cross and miserable +in the half-hour which elapsed before we reached the +shore. Fortunately, there were not many passengers +who availed themselves of the opportunity; but the +deck of the steamer was crowded by poor people +returning to their native country. Accommodation +for the cabin passengers, except seats on the wet and +sloppy decks, there was none. There was a little +cabin, stuffy and comfortless, and moreover occupied +by a couple of women who had come out to see friends +by way of a pleasure excursion, and who were suffering +the last extremities of sea-sickness. The spray +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">144</a></span> +broke over the luggage and passengers; it was in such +circumstances that the custom-house officers began +their search. One of them, opening my bag, which +was unlocked, found a small revolver. It was unloaded, +and there was no ammunition for it; but, +nevertheless, it was seized, for I was "importing arms +into a proclaimed district without licence." A similar +mishap occurred to a Spanish officer, who was not +quite so easily appeased as I was by the assurance +that the arm would be given up on proper application +to the police. His revolver, he insisted, was part of +his uniform, a necessity of his existence, and the +authorities might as well seize his epaulettes or spurs. +However, my deadly weapon was restored to me some +days afterwards, after a correspondence with the custom-house, +and I dare say the Hidalgo was equally +fortunate. These were incidents to denote that we +were in the midst of trouble. There was but a sorry +welcome for us when we landed at Queenstown. Not a +car to be found, that I could see; but there were a few +porters, and the agent of the hotel at the pier; and, +commending my luggage to his care, I walked to the +establishment. It surely cannot be quite an unaccustomed +event for a steamer to arrive at Queenstown at +that time of night! The last train for Cork had gone; +and it might have been expected that lighted rooms +and some sort of preparation would have awaited +the travellers; for every vessel that touches at Queenstown, +coming from America, surely lands a few people +needing rest and refreshment? A demoralised waiter, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">145</a></span> +who appeared to think that such a thing had never +happened in the whole course of his experience, as +the inroad of ten or twelve people asking for supper +and bedrooms, informed us that nothing could be done +until the gentleman who represented the hotel at the +landing-place had arrived; and so we sat on the stairs +for half an hour, and were then shown into a gaunt +room, dimly lighted by gas. There was nothing +ready. The hungry people, by dint of patience and +perseverance, eventually succeeded about midnight in +obtaining some poor substitute for supper and scrambled +to their beds.</p> + +<p>I mention the circumstances in which my fellow-passengers +and I were landed at Queenstown, that +those who are interested in promoting the welfare of +the port, and in making the route through Ireland less +thoroughly objectionable, may take steps to obviate +the great inconvenience to which travellers at present +are certainly exposed.</p> + +<p>Next morning I reached Mallow. I was but a few +hours in the "distressful country," but I found that +things had gone from bad to worse while we were in +the States. I heard from my fellow-travellers in the +train that "Boycotting" had attained such a pitch in +the South, that all the relations and conditions of +social life were exposed to peril, if not destruction. +And still, with the usual cheerfulness of Irish landlords, +accustomed, as it were, to these excesses of the +popular will, my informants talked of hunting, fishing, +and shooting; and I heard full accounts of the state of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">146</a></span> +the rivers, and of the take of fish which had made some +of them happy. The County Cork, indeed, had nearly +a parallel in the "wild West." But what a contrast +between the state of public feeling, in respect to the +outrages which were perpetrated in each, in the country +we had left, and that to which I had returned! In +the United States there was no attempt to justify the +men who were guilty of such deeds. In Ireland it +was impossible to obtain evidence or to convict the +offenders. I am not going to close this narrative of +our little excursion with a political disquisition, indeed +I have not the materials for forming any opinion respecting +the breadth and depth of what may be called +the Irish national movement in the United States; +but there seems to be a general vague impression in +America that as the British Government was not very +wise and equitable in its dealings with the people of +the thirteen colonies in the reign of King George, it +is, somehow or other, at the present moment, treating +with harshness and injustice the whole of the Irish +race in Ireland. It is impossible not to recognise the +fact that the head, perhaps the heart, and certainly +the purse of this development of Irish discontent are in +the United States. The arms, the body, and the legs +are in Ireland. During the whole time of our visit, +although we visited towns where eminent orators were +lecturing upon Irish subjects, and where representatives +of the League were in session, there was not a +trace brought home to us of the strong sympathy which +undoubtedly exists in many American cities with the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">147</a></span> +movement in Ireland. There were accounts of the +meetings in the newspapers, and now and then a few +leading articles on the subject; but we might have +concluded, from what we saw and heard generally, +that the Irish question was of far less importance to +the American people than the religious views of Colonel +Ingersoll, or the discussions between the railway companies +respecting their fares. The recital of wrongs, +most of which have been long ago redressed, still +reaches the ear and touches the heart of the American +public, and if the Irish population had not in many +ways provoked or excited the antagonism of the native +Americans in the towns, and of the Teutonic element +which exercises such a powerful influence in the +country, there would be far greater sympathy for the +supposed oppression of the Sister Island by England. +The fact that emigrants come from Europe is accepted +as a proof that the countries which they leave are ill-governed; +and Americans, in dealing with the emigration +question, are apt to forget the existence and nature +of the forces which induced their own ancestors to seek +homes in the New World.</p> + +<p>The <i>New York Times</i> declared in an article last +June, that there is no essential difference between the +two divisions of the Irish in America and of the Irish +in Ireland. The voyage across the Atlantic works no +transformation in Pat, and he is still as much an +Irishman after his plunge into an alien civilisation +and taking out his papers as when he stood on the old +sod in Meath or Tipperary. "He cares no more for +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">148</a></span> +the American eagle than for an owl; but a sprig of +shamrock stirs him to ecstasy. The name of Washington +has no meaning for his ear; but that of St. Patrick +is a living and potent reality." That statement, however, +must be taken with qualification. There are +to-day 90,000 acres of land in Minnesota as thoroughly +Irish as if they were planted in the centre of Connaught. +There are Pats and Pats. Many of the +most wealthy and prosperous merchants, bankers, and +landowners whom we met in the West were not merely +of Irish extraction, but born Irishmen, and the extraordinary +spectacle of Irish millionaires who knew how +to keep their money, and to add to it, too, may be seen +in San Francisco and elsewhere in the West. Many, +less fortunate, have high positions either in the army, or +as politicians, or in the estimation of all that is great +and good in America—such as Mr. O'Conor—men who +have held aloof from politics, and who could not be +tempted, even by the Presidentship, to enter the arena +of party strife. One convicted rebel of 1840 now +occupies a leading place at the American bar. I heard +him denounce the Land Bill in terms he might have +used in denouncing the atrocities of the Saxon in his +hot days when O'Connell was king. The influence +which has been acquired in many parts of the Union +by the Irish immigration and by the descendants of +immigrants has naturally excited at various times the +opposition and indignation of the American born, and it +has always been more or less opposed by the Teutons +of different nationalities who occupy such a powerful +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">149</a></span> +position in all the great States of the West. But "the +Native Party" is now either dead or sleeping. A very +distinguished officer and politician said to me that he had +at one time been a most eager and ardent adherent of +the policy of the Native American Party, but that when +he saw how earnestly and devotedly the Irish had come +forward in defence of the Union, how brilliantly they had +fought, and how recklessly they had sacrificed their lives, +in 1861, he felt constrained to abandon his principles, +and to admit their free right to all the privileges of +American citizenship. I could not, however, but recollect +that General Richard Taylor, in his most +amusing, able, and graphic work on that same war, +from the Confederate side of the question, bore the +strongest testimony to the services of the Irish in the +army which fought under the banner of the Slave +States. In New York and in San Francisco the Irish +element has exercised almost supreme control in municipal +matters, and it may be said, without offence I +hope, that, whether it be owing to the opposition they +have encountered or to a radical deficiency which may +be Irish rather than Celtic, their management has +not conduced to the comfort of the cities or to the +pecuniary purity of the Executive. In San Francisco +there is a strong anti-Irish press and much anti-Irish +feeling. The 'Argonaut' repudiates the thraldom +of the Irish associations and factions in the Far West +as strenuously as the 'Times' and 'Tribune' do in the +East. But notwithstanding all that may be written +and done, it is impossible to resist the influence of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">150</a></span> +numbers under a system of suffrage so large as that +which exists in the greater number of the American +States. It was curious to read in a Californian paper +an appeal to England to suppress Irish agitation. +"We confidently believe," says the <i>Argonaut</i>, "that +the wisdom of its public men, the healthful condition +of its public opinion, and the strength of its military +power will be sufficient to crush out the Land League +movement, which is but incipient rebellion. That +England will deal justly, firmly, and successfully with +this effort of united ecclesiasticism and Communism is +the earnest wish of every intelligent and independent +mind that believes in free government, the guarantees +of property, the rights, and the personal liberty of man." +However, there are American parties, if not statesmen, +whose wishes are by no means directed to such a consummation, +and we must take note of the fact. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">151</a></span></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER VIII.<br /> +SOME GENERAL REFLECTIONS.</h2> + +<p class="chapsum"> +Education—Free Schools—Influence of Money in Politics—Corruption +in Public Life—Crime on the Western Borders—The Great +Rebellion—Anniversaries—Great courtesy to strangers—Manners +and Customs. +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poem"> +<p class="o1">"Westward the course of Empire takes its way;</p> +<p class="i1">The four first acts already past,</p> +<p>A fifth shall close the drama with the day,</p> +<p class="i1">Time's noblest offspring is the last."</p> +</div></div> + +<p>The "tar-water Bishop of Cloyne" would have been +exceedingly astonished could he have seen the first +line of his prophecy or averment made to do duty as a +motto to Mr. Bancroft's History of the United States; +but surely if the prophecy be not realised, it will be +the fault of the agencies engaged in working it out—never +in the history of mankind, as we know it, have +such advantages been enjoyed by any nation as have +been, and are, the appanage of the Americans of +European origin in the New World. They have +leaped into the possession of their heritage full armed, +like Minerva from the brain of Jove. For them have +all the champions of human rights died or conquered, +and the protagonists of human struggles for liberty +and light fought. For them Science has trimmed her +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">152</a></span> +lamp—for them martyrs have died—for them Europe +and Asia have been in toil and travail for countless +generations, and they have been guided across the +sea to a grand continent where it would seem as if +Nature had been engaged for myriads of ages to provide +for their happiness and grandeur—all climes and +all products are theirs—the bounteous plain, the ore-filled +mountain, the treasures of the deep, the heaven-made +ways by lake and river, and it would be a +despair for all mankind if they misuse their glorious +inheritance, and if all the nations of the world see +that the pillar of fire in the west was but an <i>ignis +fatuus</i> dancing before their aching eyes in a Serbonian +bog of creeds and 'isms, of factions and faiths, all +struggling towards the gate of the Temple of Mammon. +"Philosophers," in all the doubts and fears +which the condition of the Republic inspires at times, +cling with confidence to the palladium which is, they +think, to be found in the system of education based +on the free schools of the States. If there were not a +distinction between knowledge and morality, they +would be justified; but the Evil One tempted us to +eat of the fruit of the tree which brought sin into the +world, and if Americans are to be trusted as authorities, +the result of the largest and most liberal system of +education ever devised is not as happy in practice as +it ought to be according to theory.</p> + +<p>As the central Government extended its sway over +the Territories there was a uniform system, when assigning +land for public objects to railway companies, of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">153</a></span> +retaining for the School Fund a portion of the land in +each Territory, as it was settled and admitted as such, +under the control of the central Government. In the +States Constitutions creating Sovereign States, there +are provisions inserted, varying very little in language +and not at all in spirit, which render it compulsory +on the Legislature of each State to maintain public +schools free to all the children of the people residing +within its borders. Another principle, of universal +application, provided that all schools under public +control should be free from sectarian or denominational +teaching, in the schools or in the books used for educational +purposes. With such safeguards for the extension +of education, it is depressing to find that, in +certain districts at all events, crime and immorality +prevail in the United States as extensively as in the +benighted kingdoms of the Continent of Europe. But +the most serious consideration in connection with the +system of common schools in America, is the fact that +serious doubts are intruding themselves respecting the +success of it. In a recent official report it was stated +that whereas the children who ought to go to school +numbered about fourteen and a half millions, the +average attendance was not more than five millions. +But, assuming that all the children went to school, +there are people who declare that the education given +under the National system is by no means satisfactory. +Mr. R. G. White affirms that the system is a failure; +and high authorities assert that "any comparison between +the results obtained in the public schools of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">154</a></span> +New York, Cincinnati, and Boston, with those of such +public grammar schools of England, as Bedford, Manchester, +and the City of London, is simply ridiculous." +The teachers are continually shifting, and when the +teachers, as they do in this land of liberty, go away, +the schools are deserted, the constant services of a staff +cannot be retained unless there is very considerable +increase in the rate of payment now made to the male +and female teachers. None of these in any State have, +I think, more than about 9<i>l.</i> per month. Mr. White +says that "the mass of the pupils of the public schools +are unable to read intelligently, to spell correctly, to +write legibly, to describe the geography of their own +country, or do anything that reasonably well educated +children do with ease; and they cannot write a simple +letter, they cannot do readily a simple sum in practical +arithmetic, they cannot tell the meaning of any but +the commonest of words they read and spell so ill. +They can give rules glibly, they can recite from +memory, they have some dry knowledge of the various +ologies and osophies, they can, some of them, read a +little French or German with very bad accent; but, as +to all real education, they are as helpless and as +barren as if they had never crossed the threshold of a +schoolhouse." It is from American writers that these +accusations against the common school system are to +be gleaned. Some statisticians say that crime and +pauperism are increasing far more rapidly than population. +The charge on the State for punishing criminals +and keeping paupers last year was $20,000,000, or +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">155</a></span> +£4,000,000; but it is too much to attribute crime and +pauperism to the defects of the schools. It might +with more reason be argued that the teaching of the +people in the schools tends to develop the looseness +and eccentricity of thought, where there is no religious +teaching, which are exemplified in the uprising of extraordinary +sects and strange philosophies; for America +is the land of spiritualists, mesmerism, soothsaying, +and mystical congregations. Mr. Hepworth Dixon +may not be a perfectly unimpeachable authority on +the subject of the number of spiritualists in America; +but there can be no question they are to be counted by +millions. It is averred that believers in spirits generally +believe in "special affinities which imply a spiritual +relation of the sexes higher and holier than that of +marriage." It is not wonderful then that there should +be also a very large number of divorces, especially +in the New England States. Mr. Nutting says that +"in the history of nations there has never but thrice +occurred such a breaking up of the family tie as is +now taking place, especially in Rhode Island and Connecticut, +among the people of New England blood." +Mormonism, although of American origin and early +growth, has been mainly successful by the constant +importation of ignorant peasants from Europe.</p> + +<p>There is a want of reverence on the part of children +towards their parents which is very striking. Americans +who have admitted and deplored this have sought +to account for it by the school system, wherein the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">156</a></span> +State usurps the place of the parent, and teaches the +young idea to mock at any authority but that of the +schoolmaster. It would be lamentable to have to +admit that free education is associated with the +weakening of parental influence. Theoretically, there +is nothing in the American system to prevent the +teaching of religious and moral duties by parents at +home; but it would seem as if very little of that kind +of instruction was given by the busy fathers and +anxious mothers of the Republic, and that when the +day's work is done at school, and some time given to +the preparation of the studies for the day to follow, +there is no further teaching.</p> + +<p>I do not think the rule "By their fruits shall ye +know them" can be applied to the public schools, in +connection with the prevalence of crime, immorality, +unbelief, or eccentric religion. But it is certain the +system has not by any means secured that high level +of general education, or what education is supposed to +bring with it, which its friends claim for it in the +States. There is reason to believe that the standard +of morality has not been uniformly high in the political +world, and that in the public intelligence the judiciary +does not aspire to an absolute immunity from suspicion. +Even in the old settled States, legislators from +time to time may be found, who, seated among the +good and wise, excite admiration akin to that which is +aroused by the spectacle of a fly in amber. It has +been observed by travellers that whatever affection +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">157</a></span> +may exist in families, it does not attain that keen +sensibility and lasting power which is found in French +domestic life.</p> + +<p>When American newspapers of the greatest influence +and circulation write invectives against the corruption +which prevails in places high and low, when writers +of great intelligence and known character contribute +similar articles to periodicals which possess the highest +position in the literary world of America, a stranger +may be permitted perhaps to say a few words respecting +the impression produced upon his mind by what +he heard and read on the subject when he was in the +country, without it being alleged that he attempts to +assail the principles of free government, or to make +invidious charges or wholesale accusations against a +nation. I know too well the force with which Americans +could retort if they were so minded, and how +they could point to the reports of election judges +which set forth the prevalence of extensive bribery, +led to the suspension of writs, and will perhaps end in +the disfranchisement of some ancient and populous +boroughs and constituencies in England, and to the +speeches of Sir Henry James in Parliament, to cast +any stone out of my glass house on that score; but I +do not think it can be established that persons in a +position at all analogous to that of the members of +a State Legislature have been purchased wholesale in +England, Ireland or Scotland, or that even a complete +Borough Corporation had been bought up. Now, +nothing was more common in the Far West than to +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">158</a></span> +hear it stated openly that Senator So-and-so had +bought his place, and that Mr. So-and-so had purchased +a State Legislative body in order to "get +through" some railway or other scheme. That was +accepted in fact as a matter of course, and not contradicted +or questioned by any one. We heard from +time to time of the sums which So-and-so would +expend to buy his senatorship, and of the money +actually paid to secure the passage of a line from the +legislature of O—— and the like, whilst stories relating +to the purchase of judges were common in the conversation +of the hotels and cars.</p> + +<p>I do not aver that these stories were true. I only +know that they passed current and were not challenged +by those who were around us. "Thoughtful persons," +who exist in the United States as well as in the +vicinity of Pall Mall clubs, lament, deplore and hate the +evils of growing corruption with all the fervour of +honest and powerless natures. The mechanism is +scarcely concealed. It stands before the world with less +attempt at disguise than the gallows in the gaol. Mr. +Parton, in the 'North American Review' of this July, +writing on the power of public plunder, says: "At +present, in the ninety-fifth year of the Constitution, +we are face to face with a state of politics of extreme +simplicity, of which money is the motive, the means and +the end. What was the last Presidential election but a +contest of purses? The longest purse carried the day, +and it carried the day because it was the longest. +Some innocent readers perhaps have wondered why the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">159</a></span> +famous orators who swayed vast multitudes day after +day and night after night, have not been recognised in +the distribution of office. They were paid in cash from +ten dollars a night to a thousand dollars a week." And +then he goes on to describe the business in detail, and +to show what this power is. He says: "There is a +boss in the city of New York who will take a contract +for putting a gentleman into Congress. Pay him so +much and you may go to sleep, wake up and find yourself +member elect. A boss is a man who can get to +the polls on election days masses of voters who care +little or nothing for the issues of the campaign and +know of them still less. They operate upon the +strangers in the land who are unable to use its +language and are unacquainted with its politics." +Mr. Parton describes with humour one of these +"bosses," an improvement on the pugilists and cormorant +thieves of a remote period. "The Emerald Isle +gave him birth; the streets of New York, education. +To see the brawny, good-tempered Irishman walking +abroad in his district when politics are active is to get +an idea of how the chief of a clan strode his native +heath when a marauding expedition was on foot. He +lives in a handsome house, and has more property than +any man has ever been able to get by legitimate service +to the United States. He treats his dependants and +retainers nobly, but as the agent and organiser of +spoliation he is a prey to every minor scoundrel, for +at certain seasons he dare not say no to any living +creature. And yet it requires tact, self-possession +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">160</a></span> +and resource to move about among needy people with +a pocket full of money, an embodied "yes," and have +some of it left after the election. The strikers, as +they are called, go for solid cash now instead of target +companies and clambakes for which the candidates +paid the bills." "Money, money," exclaims Mr. Parton, +"everywhere in politics, in prodigal abundance, money, +except where it could secure and reward good service +for the public, hecatombs for the wolves, precarious +bones for the watchdogs." The details in the article +are precise, and if they are to be trusted it may be +doubted whether the claims of the United States to +possess a cheap government can be maintained, for it +is not cheap to pay responsible executive officers a +precarious pittance per annum if now and then it costs +a million dollars to change them. Mr. Secretary Blaine +has thrice declared that the election in October 1880 +in the State of Maine, a model New England State, +was carried by money. His opponents declared that +he and his party were as bad, and that they too +flooded the towns with money. What renders the +situation more dangerous is the fact that the men who +provide the money for running these enormously expensive +political combinations are either seekers after, +or holders of, office, and the inference is that they seek +to control Government, or, as Mr. Parton puts it, that +"the Government is coming to be rather an appendage +to a circle of wealthy operators than a restraint upon +them." That is indeed a serious proposition, and the +result of observation goes to support the idea that it +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">161</a></span> +is valid. The small man is in office, but the big man, +his master, is outside. The mischief is brought prominently +forward in connection with the sale of public +lands in the North-West, which have been claimed as +the heritage of the people, and indeed of all the +nations of the world. The government land attracted +the hardy labour of all countries, covering the western +west with thriving towns and populous counties. But +now the prairies are skinned by rich men, by "land-grabbers," +people who buy up tracts of twenty thousand +or thirty thousand acres wherever they can lay their +hands upon them, evading the law and filling the +western world with roving labourers who work on +these prodigious farms in summer and starve in winter. +This is, we are told, the result of "government by +lobby."</p> + +<p>Occasionally there is an exceeding great and bitter +cry over all this from the depths of the body politic. +Some great paper in a moment of deep mental agony +publishes an article like that, to which I have called +attention, by Mr. Parton; occasionally some preacher, +nobly daring, thinks it necessary to direct attention, +from his pulpit, to the progress of corruption. Dr. +Talmage delivered a very remarkable discourse whilst +I was in America on the text from Job. xv. 34: "Fire +shall consume the tabernacles of bribery." Although +I do not profess exactly to understand to what particular +sect he belongs, he is one of the leaders of +religious thought, dividing with Beecher and others +the popular favour in the Empire City. The State +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">162</a></span> +buildings at Albany ought to be heavily insured if the +reverend gentleman's vaticinations are right. It was +an American discourse. I cannot give the whole +oration. The people of the Brooklyn Tabernacle were +presented with a muster-roll of the people who had +distinguished themselves amongst the great ones of +the world. Cobden, Brougham, O'Connell and Rowland +Hill were placed in juxtaposition as leaders on our +side of the water. Of course it was impossible to resist +the allusion to Francis Bacon and to Macclesfield; but +it was scarcely correct to say that the Lord Chancellor +Whiteberry—I presume a misprint for Westbury—"perished," +nor do I quite understand what the preacher +meant by the awful tragedy of the <i>Credit Mobilier</i>. +Washington, Ben Butler, and John McClean were +linked together for the benefit of Americans. They +were, Dr. Talmage declared, great politicians, but "out +of politics there has come one monstrous sin, potent +and pestiferous, its two hands rotten with leprosy, its +right hand deep in its breeches pocket. This is bribery." +Dr. Talmage called upon the American people to judge +the crime. "Under the temptation of this sin," he +exclaimed, "Benedict Arnold sold the fort in the +Highlands for thirty-one thousand three hundred and +seventy-five dollars; Gorgy betrayed Hungary, Ahitophel +forsook David, Judas killed Christ. I think," he +says, "when I see the strong men who have gone +down, of the Red Dragon in Revelation, having seven +heads and ten horns, and seven crowns upon its head, +drawing the third part of the stars of heaven after it." +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">163</a></span> +And therefore he proceeds to preach against bribery. +He thought it was the right time, "because the Legislature +in New York is busy in investigating charges +of bribery. The whole country woke up in holy horror +at the charge that two thousand dollars had been +offered to influence a vote in the Legislature, as if +this was something new; as though in one State nine +hundred and seventy-five thousand dollars had not +been paid a legislator of the State Government by a +railway company to get its charter and secure a dedication +of public lands; as though three-quarters of +the legislators of the United States had not, through +bribery, gone into putrefaction whose stench reached +heaven. After a few weeks' hunting the squirrel has +stolen the hickory nut. Gentlemen in New York hunt +out wrong by day and play poker and old sledge at +night at Delavan House. It was like the country +which had spent six millions of dollars in lawsuits +about William Tweed going suddenly into hysterics +when it found out that he had stolen a box of steel pens. +California is submerged in the grip of a great monopoly; +in Kansas United States senators had been involved +in charges of bribery; in Connecticut an election to +Congress was bought as men might buy a box of strawberries. +Last year they were convicted of attempting +bribery in Pennsylvania, but the Court of Pardons +liberated them with the exception of two judges, who +were told that they would be cut off from political +preferment for their obstinacy. A Pennsylvania United +States senator used to put a price on legislators just +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">164</a></span> +as a Kentuckian puts a price on his horse." But it was +not legislators alone that Dr. Talmage attacked. He +declared that the railways, the common carriers of the +country, were tainted by a favouritism which was, in +fact, the result of bribery. One company made rebates +in its fares to some favoured corporation, as in the case +of a petroleum company, which was enabled to control +the price of that light all over the world in consequence +of a virtual monopoly that was given to it by arrangement +with the railway. In the same way merchandise +in grain, provisions, and cattle are placed in the hands +of a few firms. "How much," asks Dr. Talmage, "did it +cost the Elevated Railroad to keep the fare from dropping +to five cents from ten cents? I have been told," +said he, "three hundred thousand dollars," which is +60,000<i>l.</i> "Very seldom does a bill pass through any of +our Legislatures if there be no money in it. Sometimes +the bribery is in bank bills, sometimes in railroad +passes, sometimes in political preferment, sometimes +by the monopolies given to the legislators, what are +called points, a corner, a flier, a cover, washing the +street, salting down, ten up! If you want to know +what these are, ask the bribed members at Albany and +Harrisburg." Then he goes on, with some truth, to +declare that the bribery begins far away behind all this; +that it is really with the money subscribed for election +expenses that the evil begins its course. "From the +big reservoirs of subscribed election expenses the little +rills roll down in ten thousand directions, and by the +time the great gubernatorial, congressional, and presidential +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">165</a></span> +elections are over, the land is drunk with +bribery." Perhaps it is quite as well that it is from +an American orator and from an American writer such +statements and such indictments proceed, rather than +from a stranger like myself; but it is very clear that +the evil which De Tocqueville indicated long ago has +spread rather than diminished, and there is reason to +think that it will do so until the public conscience of +a great people is aroused to a sense of the enormity +of the mischief. But it lies far down towards the base +of the national institutions, and any attempt to extirpate +it will fail until the doctrines of the "Spoils to +the Victors" be rejected from the political catechism, +and the interests of party made the means and not +the end of political life.</p> + +<p>The letters which appeared in the <i>Morning Post</i>, +written under the influence of the surprise and anger +I felt at the extent and impunity of crimes of violence +and the state of feeling, or want of it, respecting them +in the West, were badly received in America, and +were severely handled by a few papers, as I was +informed; I expected that the mention of the subject +would not prove agreeable, though I guarded +myself most sedulously from a single offensive word—nay, +went out of my way to palliate the offences +against life and living, and to excuse the people +who allowed them, whilst I most carefully drew the +line—a broad one—between these border ruffians and +the law-abiding, virtuous people of the settled States. +I was not, however, prepared for misrepresentation. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">166</a></span> +One would have thought that I accused the +kind hosts who had received us—our generous entertainers +in so many cities—the courteous, polished +gentlemen who accompanied us—of murder and robbery, +and ascribed to them the brutal murders committed +by Canty or the Kid. As I quoted chapter +and verse, and as the papers which vilified me could not +deny the statements, they wrote that I had been imposed +upon by the vivid fancy—in other phrase, the +deliberate lying—of their brother editors in the West. +One organ had the effrontery to declare that the Duke +of Sutherland expressed his delight at the kind and +courteous treatment of the ruffians I denounced; +adding, "somebody lied—it was not the Duke." No. +It was not indeed! A friend sent me one of these, +and below an article in which it was said that I might +take my place "beside Basil Hall, Mrs. Trollope, and +Dickens for libelling the people of the United States," +and that my stories were all inventions, there was a +pregnant commentary as follows:—"Sunday, July +17th: Daring Train Robbery; Bandits Boarding +Chicago, Rock Island, and Pacific Cars; The Conductor +and a Passenger Shot Dead, and the Safe in +the Express Car Robbed; the Passengers Saved by a +Brakeman."</p> + +<p>I hope it will not be imagined that I have any +desire to cast obloquy on the grand efforts, supremely +successful as they have been, to turn the prairie and +the desert to the uses of civilised man and of the +world, and to open up the Western Continent to +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">167</a></span> +humanity and civilisation. I am too sensible of the +courtesy, ready service, and hospitality everywhere accorded +to the party of English travellers of which I +was one, to write one word which I thought calculated +to give pain or offence to any of our many friends or +to any right-minded American. <i>Maculæ solis!</i> 'Tis a +pity they are there! In a few years, perhaps, the +memory that such things were will have passed away +like the recollection of some evil dream. But public +sentiment must make itself felt, and above all there +must be some abatement of the maudlin sympathy, +which is virtually on the side of crime, if it be active +in averting punishment.</p> + +<p>Crime in America, especially in the Eastern States, +is very much the same as it is in other countries, +but in the far West there is more recklessness in +dealing with human life, which, in spite of the Howard +Society and of humanitarians, I believe to be connected +with the indulgence extended under State laws +by American judges and juries to criminals who +appear to be deserving of nothing but the strict and +unmitigated application of the rope. "Property" is +safe, for the citizens hunt down with extraordinary +energy marauders whose object is simply plunder. +Ordinary robbers and gangs of burglars are speedily +and summarily suppressed. It is otherwise with those +who assail life and limb. The desperadoes who infest +the "saloons," as they are called, with which every +western settlement is sure to be provided as soon as +the shingle roofs are placed on the earliest upheaval +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">168</a></span> +of deal planks which can be called a dwelling, have +far greater immunity and freedom than burglars or +robbers. Wherever the train stopped for water on +our journey in New Mexico, Western Colorado, or +Eastern California, a rectangular wooden box, with +a verandah, open doors, windows screened by a +muslin curtain, perhaps a flagstaff with the Stars and +Stripes flying, a large signboard, and some high-sounding +name—the "Grand Alliance," "Union +League," "El Dorado," "Harmonium," "Arcadia," or +the like—was visible, with the usual group of booted +and bearded miners, and their horses hitched up at the +door-posts in front; inside you would be certain to +find men of the same class at a bar, behind which, +known for miles around, the affable Charlie, Bill, or Bob +was dispensing drinks and mixing cocktails, slings, and +the other drinks, in which the badness of the spirit is +artfully disguised by a stimulant of a more active +character and more pronounced flavour, known as +"bitters," and kept in subjugation by the liberal use +of ice. For even in these burning regions ice is +stored up as the one thing needful. The rudest miner +is accustomed to it; iced drinks are consumed by +classes in America far below the social level of those +who never taste them in this country.</p> + +<p>As the train was halting at Colorado Springs the +stewards engaged in an animated discussion respecting +a certain erection of poles and rafters just visible +in an adjacent field. "I tell you dat's it." "I say +tidn't." They were discussing the probability of the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">169</a></span> +scaffolding being the gallows whereon "Canty, the +Buena Vista murderer," was to be hanged the day +after. On April 29th, last year, Mr. Canty was +standing on the platform in front of Lake-house +with "Johnny the Ham," "Curly Frank," and "Off +Wheeler," when Thomas Perkins appeared in an alley +opposite, endeavouring "to induce 'Dutch Bill' to go +with him to the office of Justice Casey, who had +deputised him for the purpose." Canty and his companions +at once ran across and demanded his release. +Before Perkins could answer, Canty fired and missed +him. The second shot wounded Perkins in the arm; +the latter drew his pistol, but before he could use it +Canty fired; the ball shattered the constable's hand. +"For God's sake," he exclaimed, "is there no policeman +to help me?" He fell, and Canty, walking close +to his side, coolly sent a bullet through his body. He +was arrested, tried, and convicted. His counsel applied +to the Supreme Court for a <i>supersedeas</i>, but the court, +after solemn argument, refused the application. Then +they applied to the Governor of the State, but Mr. +Pitkin, though "a weak-kneed man," would neither +grant a reprieve nor a commutation to imprisonment +for life. There was, he said, no ground "to set aside a +verdict of a competent jury and the district judge +reviewed and approved of by the Supreme Court." In +the very last hour a woman came forward, and the +Denver paper gave <i>verbatim et literatim</i> the text of the +document in which ... "with dew regard," she offered +Sheriff Spangler $50,000 (10,000<i>l.</i>) to save the life of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">170</a></span> +W. H. Canty, her cousin, whose real name was, she said, +N. H. Salisbury. "I entreat you to have him spared +till you have an interview with me." She added that +"Jennings and his brother in Leadville would pay a +still larger sum. You may have ample means for +life," &c. A gentleman of the press, who came into +our train at South Arkansas, was present at the execution. +Just before the drop fell, Canty, who had expressed +complete confidence in his ultimate liberation +till the day before his execution, spoke for fifteen +minutes, protesting his innocence. Then he exclaimed, +"Good-bye, nothing can save me. I have faith in the +Saviour and a hereafter." The trap was sprung, but +to the horror of every one, the rope broke at the beam. +The murderer's neck, however, was dislocated, and "a +happy relief was experienced" when it was found he +had died a painless death. As he was the nephew of +an eminent statesman it was expected his friends would +take action as to the disposal of his remains, which +were put "in a neat casket at the sheriff's expense." +In the journal there was a woodcut of the murderer. +"Before his likeness could be taken holes were bored +in the door and Canty was lashed to it, and then, when +the door was set upright, the photographer watched a +favourable opportunity when the head and eyes were +quiet and secured the impression" from which the +engraving was made. He was not so fortunate as +Frank Gilbert, who was sentenced to be hanged the +following day for a brutal murder, but respited, "in +order that the proceedings may be reviewed by the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">171</a></span> +highest judicial tribunal," by Governor Pitkin at the +last moment, "till July 29," the day on which Rosencrantz +is now sentenced to be hanged. The sheriff, +Judge Ward, the clerk of the court, and the prosecuting +attorney joined with others in petitions to the +governor on the ground that the Supreme Court judges +had refused a <i>supersedeas</i> in consequence of the defects +and informalities of the record of the proceedings in +the court below. Rosencrantz was respited, and the +public, who had been expecting a double execution on +the 18th of June, were disappointed, although they +were allowed to slake their curiosity by the sight of +the condemned men and by testing the ropes in the +prison enclosure where the scaffold was ready. In the +paper which gave the text of Governor Pitkin's +reprieve there was a heading "Done Brown. Al. +Huggins, marshal of Recene, turns out a bad man. +He shoots and fatally wounds officer Brown of Kokomo." +Phil. Foote, constable of Kokomo, formerly marshal of +Robinson, and Al. Huggins, marshal of Recene, it seems +had spent the night in visiting the saloons of Kokomo, +and in the early morning began to fire their pistols and +guns off in the street, and continued to do so until +Andy Sutton, marshal of Kokomo, attempted to arrest +them, but failed, "as he was quickly covered by two +rifles." Mr. Brown, a police officer, asked Huggins to +put up his pistol, and, to encourage him, proceeded to +pocket his own revolver, when Huggins took deliberate +aim with a 38-calibre Colt and shot Brown in the left +breast, just above the heart. Huggins and Foote +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">172</a></span> +started for Recene. The marshal of Kokomo followed +quickly in pursuit, with a large body of men. +Huggins refused to surrender, whereupon the marshal +shot him in the face. As there was a movement to +lynch him, Al. Huggins was sent under strong guard +to Leadville, but Foote escaped. "Brown was not +dead by last accounts, but was not expected to +live long." Then came a long account of another +"Denver tragedy. Charles Stickney murders Mr. T. +Campan and Mrs. H. O. Devereux in a boarding-house." +Stickney was nephew of ex-Governor Clifford, of Rhode +Island, served as lieutenant, 20th Regiment, in the war +of 1861-4, graduated at Harvard, became principal of +a school, married a lady whom he sent to London to +study music, and tried mining whilst his wife was +giving music lessons in Denver. There she met Mr. +Campan, one of the best families in Detroit; Stickney +shot him and killed a woman who was in the room +at the same time. "Public opinion is in favour of +Stickney, and he will probably be reprimanded." The +evening of the day we reached Leadville, "Alderman +Johnnie M'Combe, a leading candidate for lieutenant-governor +and mayor, and last spring before the people +for city treasurer," shot and wounded, probably fatally, +a well-known actor named James M'Donald, because the +latter had taken some children in M'Combe's buggy for +a drive. It is not easy to determine how far Johnnie's +chance of office may be affected by this ebullition, but +the newspapers did not write of it with harshness; one +gave it a comic character by the heading, "Ex-Alderman +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">173</a></span> +M'Combe attempts to perforate Jemmy +M'Donald's cranium." In my morning paper of the +same date I find that "James Hogan was foully +murdered by James M'Cue in the open streets of Erie +this afternoon in a quarrel about a handkerchief;" +that Dr. Flemings, a prominent citizen of Portland, +Ashley County, Arkansas, had appeased a quarrel +between a pedlar named Gillmore and a coloured man +very effectually, for, "incensed by a remark made by +the pedlar, the doctor drew a pistol and shot him +dead;" that "a prominent business man of M'Leansboro' +had made a sensation on the streets to-day by +hunting up, pistol in hand, one of the gay Lotharios of +Hamilton County;" that "Daniel Keller, deputy +county clerk, was stabbed and killed in the street +of Virginia City by Dennis Hennessy, a kerbstone +broker;" that "a searching party under Captain +Leper had overhauled Hamilton, Myers and Brown, +the outlaws who shot Sheriff Davis and Collector +Hatter at Poplar Bluff, Mo.; killed Hamilton, mortally +wounded Myers, and made Brown a prisoner;" that +"James Hurd shot Jeff Anderson at Alamosa, Col., and +that it was feared the latter would not survive." An +account of the death of "Curly Bill," a notorious +desperado, leader of cowboys and murderer of Marshal +White, who was killed at Caleyville, Arizona, by his +comrade, Jem Wallace, followed. They had a quarrel +(of course, in a saloon). After a few drinks "Curly +Bill" said, "I guess I will kill you on general principles." +Wallace stepped out of the saloon and immediately +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">174</a></span> +opened fire, inflicting a mortal wound on his +foe. After a brief hearing Wallace was discharged, +and left for parts unknown. Then it was related +how "Thomas Clarey ('Tommy the Kid'), a Durango +outlaw, was killed by a comrade named Eskridge at +Annego while drunk." A fratricide and three trials for +murder were duly recorded. Another paper gave an +account of South-West Colorado from the lips of a +recent visitor to San Juan County. "Are you going +back to San Juan? No, I think not; but it is a +glorious country. The men there are a little rough, +and kill each other on slight provocation; but a peaceable +man who does not swagger and blow is not molested. +There is no law, and courts and constables are +unknown." He narrates how Aleck ——, acting as a +barkeeper, "a noble-hearted, jovial fellow, full of fun, +who looked you square in the eye, owns mines, said +to be worth a million," settled a difficulty; I am +inclined to think Mr. Charles Klunk rather drew on +the interviewing reporter of the <i>Globe Democrat</i>. +He was, he said, going to see a stockman who lived +about fifty miles from the house where he was +visiting. A farmer said to him "Come and take a +drink with me, and I'll show you the barkeeper who +killed the man you are going to see an hour ago." +The stockman had come into the saloon whilst Aleck +was in the back room, and began to abuse him. Aleck +heard him, opened on the man with a revolver, and +"shot him full of holes. Next day I asked him what +he was going to do about it, and he said he had been +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">175</a></span> +tried and acquitted, which meant that some of the +leading men had told him that he had done right. +There was no trial about it. When a man kills another +out there in a fight they don't inquire very strictly +into the circumstances, but make up their minds that +they can't bring the dead man to life by hanging the +killer, so nothing is done about it. But when a man +murders another to rob him, the vigilants turn out +and have no mercy on him. They just fill his skin +with lead and tumble him into a hole like a wolf. +After all, though the bears are plentiful in the +spring, you can kill a deer 100 yards from the house +where you like, the streams are alive with trout, the +vegetables and crops splendid." Mr. Charles Klunk's +resolution not to go back to this Happy Valley seems +founded on sound constitutional principles. What I +wish to point out is the condition in which the Central +Government and State Governments have permitted +many districts of New Mexico, Colorado, and California +to remain. It is plain that the peculiar conditions +under which the sway of the United States has been +extended over the regions of the Far West have +rendered it very difficult to establish the machinery +for protecting life and property and punishing crime; +but I do not see that the statesmen at Washington or +the legislators at the State capitals are very much +concerned at the reign of terror which prevails on the +borders, or that they seek to impress on their people +any regard for the sacredness of life. In fact, human +life is almost a drug in the market. And I write +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">176</a></span> +fully sensible of the failures of our own and of all +European Governments to repress crime, to prevent +violence, and to ensure security to life and property. +I am aware that Ireland and Poland are to the fore, +and that wife-beating and "running kicks" illustrate +the brutality of Lancashire and other districts—that +London has its Alsatias, that every European capital +has foul recesses in which the only laws are those +of crime. All the world is busy preparing shoals of +emigrants for the United States. It is only, however, +when some savage outbreak affrighting the propriety +of a great city arouses indignation and fear that there +is a clamour for measures of repression. I do not +think there is in any other part of the world, or +that there ever has been in any civilised country, +such shootings as have filled the land to which +I allude with bloodshed. It may be said with +truth that there never have been and that there are +not any similar conditions in the world. But the +absence of any great abiding movement for the correction +and suppression of violence and lawlessness +cannot be so readily accounted for or excused. There +appears to be a sort of admiration for these border +ruffians among portions of the American Press and +public. Even a staid paper like the <i>Republican</i>, in +an article headed "South-East Missouri: the Reign of +Lawlessness about Ended," on the destruction of the +New Madrid gang, writes of one who was sent to the +penitentiary for thirty years "as a living monument +of a bold and brave lot of desperate men who had +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">177</a></span> +started out to make money by robbing their fellow-men. +This swift and stern justice speaks well for this +portion of the States, which has had for a long time +more than its full quota of these lawless characters. +Myers and Brown will be hung on the 15th July, and +their execution will be witnessed by thousands of South-East +Missourians." The spectacle of the hanging will +not do much good, if it be like the execution at Colorado +Springs, which was advertised as a sort of picnic or +pleasure excursion. One advertisement ran, "After +the hanging to-morrow drink La Salle beer; it will cool +your nerves." "Highway robbery here has about run +its course, and the people are determined that lawlessness +in those regions shall no longer go unwhipped +of justice." Very good. But, why not sooner and +long ago? "Rhodes was hung by Judge Lynch when +captured at the killing of young Laforge in New +Madrid;" but the gang killed the sheriff and wounded +the deputy-sheriff and collector before the people arose +in their majesty to squelch them. A criminal is invested +with a notoriety which, next to popular estimation, +is valued by some men, and it is noted with +interest that "Gilbert" (one pitiless murderer) is a +Catholic, and that "Rosengrants" (another homicide) +"inclines towards the Episcopalians." A Leadville +doctor visits one of them to ask for his body. "No, +sirree, you can't have my body; I'll be hanged first!" +And the public laugh at the lively sally, and admire +the <i>sangfroid</i> of the wit! In fact, there is a +<i>tendresse</i> for crime in this grim humour. A Texan who +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">178</a></span> +would "fill the skin" of a stranger "with lead" for +aspersing Texas would no doubt heartily enjoy the +description of the early population of the Lone Star +State, which I quote from the Texas Press. "In the +early days of the Republic, and even after annexation, +many of the white men who came here had strong +sanitary reasons for a change of climate, having been +threatened with throat disease so sudden and dangerous +that the slightest delay in moving to a new and milder +climate would have been fatal, the subjects dying of +dislocation of the spinal vertebræ at the end of a few +minutes—and a rope. A great many left Arkansas, +Indiana, and other States in such a hurry that they +were obliged to borrow the horses on which they rode +to Texas. They mostly recovered on reaching Austin, +and many invalids began to feel better and consider +themselves out of danger as soon as they crossed the +Brancos River. Some who would not have lived twenty-four +hours longer had they not left their homes reached +a green old age in Western Texas, and were never again +in risk of the bronchial affection already referred to by +carefully avoiding the causes which led to their trouble. +Some at Austin recovered so far as to be able to run for +office, within a year, though defeated by a respectable +majority, owing to the atmosphere and the popularity +of the other candidate." The most extraordinary +fact connected with the indulgence which is extended +to Western excesses is the severity with which +Northern and Eastern writers and publicists deal +with the recklessness of Southerners with regard to +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">179</a></span> +life, as if it were a political question in some way +connected with slavery. In an article on "Colonisation," +in the July number of 'The International +Review,' there is an attempt to prove that the prevalence +of homicide in the South as compared with the +North has impeded the flow of immigrants, although +slavery has disappeared, and the writer, quoting Mr. +Redfield's book on 'Homicide North and South,' says +the terrible "scourge of open murder, wholly irrespective +of political causes more deadly than disease or +yellow fever, because each death is the result of a +heinous crime, seems to be calmly accepted by public +opinion as a part of the unchangeable conditions of +social life in the South. In Kentucky more men are +killed in six days than in eight years in Vermont. In +a village of Connecticut a death from homicide has +never occurred from its foundation, while in one graveyard +in Owen County, Kentucky, the majority are +murdered men, and in another county forty-two persons +were killed and forty-three wounded in two years." +But in the very same number of the 'International' +there is an account of the doings of the "Vigilance +Committee" of San Francisco (where there were no +slaves and where there is immense wealth), which +might cause the author of the paper on "Colonisation" +to reflect a little on his theories. Surely in +Arizona, California, &c., where the foreign population +is 50 per cent. of the natives, immigration has not been +checked by the prevalence of homicide? It must not +be supposed that there is no "law" in the towns where +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">180</a></span> +these crimes have been committed; in all the cases +referred to the coroner did his office and verdicts were +returned, and it will have been seen that "wretches +hang" in due course. We had intended to visit the +State prison at Cañon City on our way to Pueblo from +Leadville, where we were promised an opportunity of +seeing "thirty murderers all in a row," but the delay +of the train on the road deprived us of the means of +verifying the statement, and I give it as it was made. +It would seem as if the criminal supply were super-abundant, +or that death on the gallows had no deterrent +influence. The chances of escape are, if not +numerous, at least considerable. At Deming, Denver, +Leadville, Tucson, Tombstone, and other cities, the +vast mass of the inhabitants are law-abiding, peaceable, +honest, and honourable men, who feel as much +horror at the violence and bloodshed around them as +the most refined lady in any saloon of Boston, Paris, or +London, but they appear to endure these things in +the hope that the law will be enforced at last; now +and then they break into vigilance committees and +execute their own decrees, though the judges do not +fail to lay it down that they have been accessories to +murder. The great civiliser and police agent is the +railroad. It is affirmed that as the iron way is pushed +on the outlaws and the <i>personnel</i> of outlawry congregate +at the terminal town, but I suspect that there is +a fringe of the material left on the border as it runs. +As our party were at dinner in the palace-car one +evening the train pulled up at a station. There was a +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">181</a></span> +group of rough men on the platform, who stared in +with all their eyes at the white tablecloth, set with +bright glass and silver, and at the cheerful faces under +the lamps. "How merry they are. I wonder if they +know that this is Dodge City?" exclaimed one of the +crowd. I was told by an official that when they were +making a railway in these parts the surveyors, &c., +were much troubled by gangs of gamblers and robbers, +who impeded the work and debauched the men, so +after due warning they made a razzia on the gamblers, +shot a lot of them, and the rest "vamosed." There +was not very long ago an actual war in the Grand +Cañon Valley between the Atchison, Topeka, and +Santa Fé Railway and the Denver and Rio Grande +Railway, in which there was an array of armed forces +and fighting on both sides, and we saw with our own +eyes the remains of the breastworks cast up in the +Grand Cañon by the belligerents. The law came in at +last. "One side got at the judge first and gave him +$50,000. The other was quite ready to go beyond +that, but the first was too quick, and the suit went +against the company." I was talking to a lawyer +about the length of time which is allowed by the +judges to criminals sentenced to death as a detail of +the execution of the law not in accordance with the +general practice of civilised nations, when one of the +company remarked, "They must do it, sir, to please +the people. If we had Judas Iscariot in gaol to-morrow +there would be thousands of petitions to commute his +sentence, and thousands of dollars ready for an appeal +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">182</a></span> +to the Supreme Court. Our people don't like prompt +sentence." Nevertheless, sentence and execution are +pretty swift when the desperadoes take the law into +their own hands, as we have seen. The revolver and +the "saloon" are the agents and the scene in most of +these murders, and whisky is too often the motive power. +In Kansas it is a criminal offence to sell any intoxicating +spirit, or to use it except on medical certificate. It is +said that the law cannot last, but it surely was a very +strong conviction of the evils which were endured by +the community that brought a State Legislature, +elected by the people, to enact that beer, wine, and +spirits should be absolutely and entirely banished from +its borders. Lately there was a prosecution by the +State attorney of a man for selling spirits. The case +was clearly proved. The judge charged the jury in +the strongest manner against the defendant. The jury +without retiring at once found a verdict of "not guilty." +"Boys," exclaimed the judge, putting his hand on the +foreman's shoulder, "Boys, I'm quite with you." The +Kansas case will be, I think, watched with great +interest by the rival parties in England, and it is +certainly worth investigation and attention, for, if all +I hear be true here, a Parliament elected by the people +either in advance or in the rear of their constituents +have passed a law which judges condemn, and juries +evade, and public opinion derides.</p> + +<p>From a British, which may be an unintelligent, point +of view, there is a want of logical method in the treatment +of the Great Rebellion question by Americans. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">183</a></span> +There is a general disposition to speak of the war +between the Federal Government and the people of +the Confederate States as an historical fact which has +ceased to present burning controversies and terrible +issues to the Republic. But, at the same time, these +controversies are kept alive, and, for the defeated, are +stirred up incessantly by anniversaries and celebrations, +natural but, if it be the object of Americans, as many +of them assure us it is, to let the memory of the past +die out like that of a horrid dream, impolitic. The +spirit which animated the Southern States is neither +dead nor sleeping. But there are no end of G. A. P. +and G. A. R. Associations flourishing their banners +and waving their sheathed swords in and out of the +newspapers, and it is almost more than Southern flesh +and blood can bear at times to be reminded of the +defeats they sustained, even if they be content to +admit that the doctrine of the sovereignty of States +was a delusion, and that the indivisibility of the +Republic was a fundamental principle of the Constitution +before it was conclusively established by force +of arms.</p> + +<p>North and South, our good cousins are fond of +anniversaries and speechmakings. I wonder where +they get their taste for them from? Some few +veterans dine together on anniversaries of old French +war days, and there is a Balaclava Dinner in the Old +Country; but, though we have a reasonably long list +of fighting successes to commemorate, their anniversaries +are mostly left to the almanacks. The other +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">184</a></span> +day the Americans had a celebration of the Battle of +Cowpens, wherein the heroic Morgan gave the diabolical +Tarleton the deuce of a whipping. I wonder if it was +worth remembering? But it is better to remember +such things perhaps than Sherman's Raid or Wilderness—or +Chickahominy. There are bitternesses enough +remaining—the rivalries and jealousies of generals are +still active and these memories might be left to die +out.</p> + +<p>The great war which so deeply moved the population +of the United States has left many traces in Soldiers' +Homes, and men deprived of legs or arms, or bearing +marks of indelible wounds, are to be met with wherever +there is any considerable gathering of people all over +the Union. The clerk at the bar of the hotel, to +whom we were talking a moment ago, was a captain in +a regiment of militia, and served with distinction, +having risen to the grade he occupies by conduct and +courage during the war; and if he is known among +his friends by the title of "Colonel," he deserves, +probably, the brevet conferred upon him by the +authority of the general public around him. The +conductor of the train on the Pennsylvania Railroad, +to whose attention we were so much indebted, was an +ex-officer of volunteers, was engaged at the first battle +of Bull Run, where he was wounded, and in several +other actions. And our good friend the Major, who +enabled us to pass many an hour listening to his +admirable rendering of negro minstrelsy, bore in his +body a proof of the dangers he had passed, in the shape +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">185</a></span> +of a Confederate bullet, or it might have been (for I am +not quite sure now) a projectile of the Federal persuasion. +And so on. Scarcely a day passed that we +did not meet someone who had been fighting on one +side or the other.</p> + +<p>One great change has come over Americans since I +was last here, and, whether it was the ridicule to which +they were exposed or to a sense of their greatness as a +nation that it be due, it is to be commended. Except +by a professional interviewer, not one of the party was +asked, "What do you think, sir, of our country?"!</p> + +<p>The welcome which an Englishman who is entitled +to admission into good society receives all over the +States, in the best houses, and from the best men, is as +gracious and warm as ever. It seems as if a reaction +against the suspicion, jealousy, and harshness which +marred the political relations of the Republic and Great +Britain in times gone by, moved those who behave with +so much courtesy to Englishmen, and that they seem to +say, <i>sotto voce</i>, "Come and see how I forget the wrongs +done to the United States by the Ministers of George +III. and his successors! Admit that I can be as +magnanimous as I am rich and cultivated! I am of +your house, but I have transplanted all the good +qualities of your race to American soil, and grafted +them on the tree of liberty which towers aloft in all +the splendour of Transatlantic luxuriance above us." +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">186</a></span></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER IX.<br /> +THE RED MAN AND HIS DESTINY.</h2> + +<p class="chapsum"> +Captain Pratt—Carlisle Barracks—An Indian Bowman—The Indian +Question—The Pupils' Gossip—The "School News"—Indian +Visitors—The White Mother—The India Office—White and Red—Quo +Quousque?—Indian Title Deeds—The Reservations—The +Indian Agencies—Missionary Efforts—The Red Man and the +Maori. +</p> + +<p>On the 5th of May the party visited Carlisle Fort or +Barracks, one of the ancient military establishments +of the Republic, where in the old times, speaking in +an American sense, a considerable force was usually +concentrated to keep watch and ward over the western +frontiers, now extended thousands of miles away to +the Pacific. The Barrack, which is a large quadrangle +capable of containing a couple of regiments, is appropriated +by the Government to this great experiment, +the systematic education of the Indians of +both sexes, whose families send them to school for the +purpose of learning English and useful arts, mechanical +and other, which may be of advantage to their people. +It was, perhaps, one of the most interesting of the +many little excursions which the Duke of Sutherland +and his friends made in the States, and as it was the +only one of the schools which we had an opportunity +of seeing I shall proceed to give a little account of +what we witnessed. In the first place let me express +the sense which every one of us entertained of the real +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">187</a></span> +sterling qualities of Captain Pratt who is in charge of +the school, and of the devotion and solicitude for +their charges of those ladies employed in the training +establishment. It may be asked how casual visitors +could judge of these things? The discipline, order, +progress, and perfect method visible in every room, and +the intelligence and good understanding between the +teachers and the pupils which could be perceived +throughout the establishment, were adequate proofs, I +think, that the praise is well deserved. At the time +of our visit there were something under three hundred +pupils, of whom perhaps two hundred were boys, and +these were engaged in their class-rooms, each section +of Indians being arranged according to nationality, if +such a term can be used. But, indeed, the tribes of +Indians differed from each other in personal appearance +far more than do the races which inhabit the European +continent. It is true they nearly all have straight +wire-like black hair and eyes set deeply and rather +obliquely in faces which are frequently of the Mongol +type. But there is great diversity in the shape of the +head, the angle of the jaw, the formation of the mouth +and nose, the colour (when not tainted or "improved" +by an admixture of European blood, whether Mexican +or American or other) being pretty uniform, a rich +bronze, with something of a copper hue, predominating +in the young people. The boys were dressed in a plain +neat uniform of greyish-blue, military tunics and +trousers, well shod and comfortably equipped in all +respects. The girls, amongst whom, perhaps, taste for +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">188</a></span> +eccentric finery was not unobservable, wore dresses less +uniform in appearance, generally neat and always clean; +but their foot gear was rather eccentric. The rooms, +spacious barrack-like apartments, well ventilated, were +appropriated to the classes according to age and progress, +the boys being separated from the girls. The +walls were hung with maps and furnished with educational +coloured prints, and boards for arithmetical +exercises were in each apartment. The desks and stools +were such as would be seen in an ordinary school, and +if one had not looked at the faces of the pupils and +been struck by some of the strange characters on the +walls he would have thought himself in the middle +of some ordinary school; save, perhaps, that his ear +would have missed the curious humming noise which +marks the industry of idleness or of legitimate work +in similar establishments in Europe. But here were +all these young savages, poring over their books or +boring with their pens, looking up at the visitors +scarcely with curiosity and applying themselves again +to their work, or answering questions put to them with +the composure which must be a portion of the Red +Man's nature.</p> + +<p>I cannot recollect how many tribes there were represented +at the Carlisle school; but I was struck by +the race-distinctions which could be observed when +Captain Pratt, standing on a raised platform, called +out the names of each tribe. The little batches, in +some instances only one or two, stood up briskly and +looked somewhat proudly about, as much as to say, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">189</a></span> +"We are Sioux (or Apaches, or Ponchas, or Creeks), +not like these other fellows." And the young ladies +were, if one might judge from their expression, quite +as proud of their own people as the boys. But the +names these poor children receive are ludicrous. Not +content with calling them by English names, or +American, singularly misapplied, very often, as a name +may be, their own Indian nomenclature is translated +into English, so that we heard reading and reciting +beside "Luke Phillips" and "Almarine McKillip" (a +Scotch Creek) "Maggie Stands-looking" and "Reuben +Quick-bear." There was something of sarcasm, I think, +in the address of a Creek boy to the visitors. He said: +"The Indian boys had come here to learn something +about the use of the bow and hunting. Their people +believed that if boys grew up to manhood without +learning they would be of no use; therefore they had +sent the boys here to get education." Then, after +some moral if trite reflections, the lad said: "You must +understand that nearly everything that was made was +made both for the present and the future. This barracks +was not built for Indians, as I do not think the +men who built it ever thought that it would be an +Indian school; but things were made to do good both +in the present and in the future." And then quoth +he, looking at his white friends straight in the face: +"The education which we are getting here is not like +our own land, but it is something that cannot be +stolen nor bought from us." And the white man did +not turn red at the words! I do not pretend to judge +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">190</a></span> +of the actual progress made in learning, but the very +intelligent self-possessed teachers reported uniformly +that they were satisfied. The most useful education, +perhaps, which these Indians receive is in practical +mechanics, and a visit to the workshops attached to +the barracks was amply repaid by the sight of these +industrious young fellows hammering and leathering +away in the various departments. They have actually +completed waggons of a most satisfactory construction, +complete in all their parts, so much so that orders +have been received for as many as can be supplied for +the use of Agencies. They make and repair their own +shoes. They have sent out a hundred and twenty +double sets of harness. They make coffee-boilers, +cups, pans, pails, and all the articles known to the +tin-smith; and the girls are taught to hem and sew +and knit in the English fashion; but it must have +been not many a long year before the white man +landed, when the ancestors of these Indian maidens +exercised the same mystery with fine sinew and skin +in the wonderful work of which specimens are handed +down to us to-day. On one point alone, perhaps, +there was something to regret; the health of the +children was not all that could be desired. Well +clad, regularly fed, I presume on wholesome food, +cleanly lodged in well-ventilated rooms, these wild +children of the plains scarcely came up to the expectations +one would form of them in the matter of chest-measurement; +and although many were remarkable +for fine physical development, Captain Pratt confessed +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">191</a></span> +that their sanitary condition was not everything that +could be desired, and that losses from consumption and +other causes were rather serious. But they have +plenty of out-door exercise. They have games in +which they rejoice. They drill and march to the +sound of their own band, a very good brass band of +eight performers, each of a different tribe, who played +"Hail Columbia!" and the "Star-Spangled Banner," +and the like, with energy and zest; nay, with harmonious +concurrence. When we went out into the +large open square, there appeared before us a wonderful +being in feathers, waving plumes, wampum and all +the leathern panoply and peltry adornments of an +Indian, painted, and armed with bow and arrow, probably +such an one as Captain John Smith may have +seen as he went exploring the woods of Virginia on +his way to the sacrifice from which he was saved by +Pocahontas. A target was erected at a distance of +a hundred yards or so, and had I been in the centre of +it, I should have been perfectly safe from the arrows +which the Indian warrior discharged at it. But we +were told that with a good bow a strong-armed Indian +will drive an arrow right through a buffalo, and in +that case I would suppose that the buffalo was very +near to him indeed.</p> + +<p>Of course it is but natural to find very varying +degrees of intelligence amongst the pupils, and the +rate of progress was by no means uniform, but a +committee of examination which recently visited the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">192</a></span> +school declared that the manifestations of advancement +in the rudiments of English education were to +them simply surprising. It was with admiration +bordering on amazement they observed the facility and +accuracy with which the children passed through the +various exercises, in reading, geography, arithmetic, +and writing, of the schoolroom; the accurate training +and the amount of knowledge displayed were, they reported, +the fullest proof not only of skilful teaching, but +of great aptitude and diligence on the part of the children. +Considering the brief period during which the +school had been in operation, and the fact that the children +entered it in a wholly untutored condition, the +evidence was conclusive of the capability of culture. +They go on to say: "We are fully persuaded that improvement +equal to that which we have witnessed in +the case of these children of the plains, if made in equal +time by American children, would be regarded as quite +unusual. And when the difficulty of communication +consequent upon the diversities of language is taken +into account we can but feel that the results of which +we have been the witnesses to-day justify our judgment +of them as amazing."</p> + +<p>One of the most interesting features connected with +the attempts to educate the Indians at Carlisle is the +'School News,' a little publication which, as I understand, +is conducted by Indian pupils taught in the +establishment, edited by Samuel Townsend, a Pawnee +Indian boy. It is published once a month, and costs +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">193</a></span> +25 cents or 1<i>s.</i> per year. It takes as its motto the +lines:</p> +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poem"> +<p class="o1">"A pebble cast into the sea is felt from shore to shore,</p> +<p>A thought from the mind set free will echo on for ever more."</p> +</div></div> + +<p>Perhaps neither the metre nor the actual statement +commend themselves to acceptance, but the +matter of the little journal is full of interest. In the +first place the names of the contributors afford full +matter for meditation. Perhaps it is one of the steps +which must be taken to civilise these poor Indians that +their names should undergo a strange and, to me, +unmeaning metamorphose. There seems no reason +whatever why the Indian names should not be retained, +or if there is any reason for changing them, at +least there might be some discrimination and good +taste exercised in the adoption of English Christian +names.</p> + +<p>The first number of the 'School News,' which I have +before me, contains as an article: "What Michael +Burns, an Apache boy, thinks on the Indian Question." +He says, "I cannot help myself, having much feeling for +my people, what has been said about them, and the +efforts making to give us the same privileges as the +people of the United States. And it is said how +we have been treated by the bad white man, for the +last ten or fifteen years, decreasing our number. But +that kind for treatment for my nation will soon stop." +The poor boy goes on to say: "There is no doubt +that we are in fault. We had the opinion that we +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">194</a></span> +could not get beaten by any other nation. Now we +know for ourselves that we will have to change.... +But how does the white man know which way +is the best to do. Was he born that way? No! +Education gives him the light of knowledge." Then +a boy named Marcus Poko writes to his father: "I +want you to try hard and leave the Comanche way, +and to find the white man's way." In the leading +article, written, I presume, by Samuel Townsend, it is +said: "Indian ways will never be good any more, it +is all passed, gone away, and the other way is coming +up to take the place. We shall all be glad when we +all get into the civilised way of living, then the +Indians will not make so much trouble for the +American people. Some people say 'let the Indians +get out of the way. There is no use in trying to +advance them, kill them all they are like the wild +animals deaf and dumb, they never will learn anything. +We have already paid so much money for +them they have never become civilised yet.' But all +good people say, 'Oh, yes, give them an education and +plenty of opportunities, and send more teachers among +them so they may come up beside us and live as +brothers and live in peace.'" There is a little paragraph +as to language. "There are a great many words in +the English," says the writer, "that the Indians have +no word for, so the white people who make the Indian +books have to make new Indian words. So the Indians +have to learn the new Indian words. Now we don't +know much about it, but we believe the Indians can +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">195</a></span> +all learn to speak the same as the whites." Then +there is a column about the school news: "Lizzie +McRae, a Creek girl, made a very good corn bread the +other day. We had some of it. It was right good I +tell you." "Robert American Horse is a steady boy. +He works in the blacksmith shop very well, and Mr. +Harris never has to tell him but once how to do something." +"One of the teachers had artificial violets on her +belt. A Gros Ventre boy saw them, but did not know +what they were, so he got up from his desk and went +close to the teacher. He looked at it and then smelt +it. When he smelt it he said, 'Pooh! rags!'" "Boys, +some time ago Captain Pratt gave us advice about +throwing stones at birds. Some of the boys who +understand most English did not listen. We want +the birds to come and stay with us and sing for +us, too. Let us remember about this, and not let +Captain Pratt have to say it again." "Last Sunday +some of the large girls had a prayer-meeting in the +yard at the back of the girls' quarters. Nobody told +them to do it, but they thought it would be a good +thing." There is a long letter from Lizzie Walton, a +Pawnee girl of thirteen years old, describing a trip to +Philadelphia, and I believe there are very few girls of +thirteen years of age in any school who could write +more amusingly or better. The account of a magic +lantern by Ada Bent, a Cheyenne girl, closes the +number.</p> + +<p>Letters from the children who are sent out to the +farmers are published in this little periodical, and give +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">196</a></span> +a very pleasing picture of the lives and aptitudes of +these Indians. Virginia, of Kiowar, writes from a farm, +asking one of the teachers to pardon her for not having +done so before; but "I have not much time," she says, +"I am very busy set the table and wash dishes make +my bed and make pies and cakes and try to make +bread too, and the other things beside.... Sometime +I make fire and bring in wood. Mrs. Borton is very +kind lady she has two children one girl and boy. I +love these little children very much." "My dear +Miss H——, I am not bad a girl. I help now a great +deal. I pray for you almost every night, also when I +wake up in the morning. I like to pray very much +because I make myself good." And so on in a pleasant +little gossiping way, frequently in very difficult language. +There is an article in the 'School News' of +July upon the shooting of President Garfield: "The +man who shot him," says the writer, "we suppose, +thought he would please some of the people in the +United States. He thought he was very smart. If +President were to die how would every white man, +black man and the Indian feel? It was not in war +when the President was shot, for our country don't +have war any more, but in peace.... We all feel +sorry because the President is suffering. We hope he +will soon recover." It is stated that about a hundred +boys and girls have gone out to work on the +farms, and there are some trite remarks about the +advantages of hard work as opposed to the disadvantages +of laziness. "The farmers up country say +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">197</a></span> +the Indian boys can bind wheat first-rate." "Nelly +Cook, Sioux, made 36 sheets in one day last week. +Nellie Cary, Apache, made 32, and Ella Moore, Creek, +made 30. Boys, do you think those girls are lazy?" +The 'School News' has a reporter, it would appear, +for the paper says that "Our reporter took a walk +round in the shops to see what the boys were doing. +In all the shops every boy was busy. In the carpenter +shop there were Jock (Arapahoe), Ralph +(Sioux), Elwood (Iowa), and Joe Gun (Ponca) sawing +out window and door frames. Oscar (Cheyenne) and +Michael Burns (Apache) were busy carving balcony +posts; and Lester (Arapahoe) was outside chiselling +a beam. These things are all for our new hospital.... +Jesse (Arapahoe) and Little Elk (Cheyenne) were busy +in the gymnasium. The waggons which Robert +American Horse has finished painting are to be sent +to Oregon and Washington Territories." It is sometimes +difficult to make out the meaning of the little +prattle which these small people commit to the uncertain +medium of the English tongue; but, on the +whole, it is a most interesting and curious study. In +one respect these children of the forest possess that +which civilisation seems rather to dwarf amongst men of +the highest culture and imagination—a certain stately +eloquence and nobility of expression, in which natural +images abound, and allegory and metaphor consort +together in excellent and tasteful union. In a paper +called 'Eadle Keatah Toh,' which seems to have been +the precursor of the 'School News,' there is an interesting +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">198</a></span> +report from the Committee on Indian Affairs to +the House of Representatives, submitted by Mr. Pound. +The motto of the paper is "God helps those who help +themselves"; but surely it might be better put that God +will help those who seek to do good to the unfortunate +Indians, who in contact with civilisation are rendered +utterly helpless, and who in their attempts to help themselves +according to the manner of the race must meet with +nothing but extinction. From time to time there are +notices of deaths. One would like to know who wrote +the account of the "death of John Renville, son of +Gabriel Renville, Chief of the Sisseton Sioux." After +noticing the circumstances under which he contracted +his fatal illness—fever, produced by drinking water +at a spring on a hot day on a march to the camp in +Perry County, the writer says:—"'Death loves a +shining mark,' the poet sang long ago; and in the +passing away of John Renville from our school we +sadly say, how truthfully the poet sang.... +Through all the days of his sickness his large sorrowful +eyes had a far-away wondering look, no pain +marred the beauty of his brow, and his voice as he +addressed his sister, who tenderly watched over him, +was like the trumpet warbling of some mournful bird. +Our hearts follow the father in deep sympathy as he +bears back the body of his beautiful boy to the land +of the Dakotas for burial."</p> + +<p>The Indian chiefs have a right, which they often +exercise, of visiting these schools as a Board; and +there is an account in the Carlisle paper of the visit +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">199</a></span> +of Spotted Tail, Iron Wing, White Thunder, Black +Crow, and Louis Robideau from the Rosebud Agency; +Red Cloud, American Horse, Red Dog, Red Shirt, +Little Wound, and Two Strike from the Pine Ridge +Agency; Like the Bear and Medicine Bull from +the Lower Brule Agency; Son of the Star, Poor +Wolf, Peter Beauchamp, and John Smith from +Fort Berthold; Two Bears, John Big Head, Grass, +Thunder Hawk, and Louis Primeau from Standing +Rock; Charger and Bull Eagle from Cheyenne +River; Brother to All and James Broadhead from +Crow Creek; Strike the Ree and Jumping Thunder +from Yankton; Robert Hakewashte and Eli Abraham +from Santee Agency; Mr. Tackett and his wife +and daughter; a daughter of Spotted Tail, and +others. The meeting of the children with their +parents is described as being most touching; and +sometimes the pupils were not recognised, so greatly +had they altered. As the chiefs seemed unwilling to +speak when called upon to do so, there was silence for +a time till a little girl, who had been about a year and +a half at the school, expressed her desire to speak in so +earnest a way that General Marshall permitted her to +do so; and so, speaking in her own dialect, her words were +translated into English and into Sioux. She declared +that she liked the white man's ways and the white man's +language. Indian words, she said, were down on the +ground, but the white man's language was in his head. +The chiefs, who listened attentively, seemed to understand +this curious figure of speech, and nodded their +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">200</a></span> +approval. And then she enlarged upon the advantage +of what she learned, and implored the chiefs to send +their children to the school, where she says she is +going to try to be God's daughter. Her words seemed +to kindle the fire within the chieftains' breasts, for Like +the Bear, a Sioux, and father of one of the boys at +Hampton School, came forward and addressed the +meeting. "There is no greater power in the world," +said he, "than the Great Spirit, and we must listen to +Him and do what He wants us to do. When the men +who were sent out by the Great Father the President +asked for my children I gave them up. I see you are +making brains for my children, and you are making +eyes for them so that they can see. That is what I +thank the Great Spirit for, and it is that which will +make me strong." Then Robert Hakewashte, a chief +from the Santee Agency, spoke, and said that he wanted +schools like that which he saw here on his own reservation, +and Spotted Tail wished for the same thing. +"Since I have learned the words of God," he says, "it +makes no difference to me what is the colour of a man's +skin; if he walks like a man it is the same. I do not +believe God likes the white colour only. God likes +red and white, for He made them all." And then the +flood of eloquence was loosened, and an old chief of the +Sioux, nearly blind, verging on ninety years of age, +who had come to see his grandson, said: "I grew up a +red man, and the things I see here I never had a chance +to see before. I have heard about the white man's +church and his religion, and I have heard about the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">201</a></span> +holy house. I have looked into them, and I am very +much pleased. But there is only one Great Spirit we +all can worship, and the red men all over the country +are hearing about it. You are teaching the children +to worship the Great Spirit. That is a great thing, +and I like it. But you have here two sons of one +father. One is sick. I want you to keep the other." +And so he carried him away.</p> + +<p>The condition of the Red Man who is allowed to exist +under the banner of the Republic is a subject which +has attracted the attention of the best and wisest men +in the United States. The treatment of the Indians +is a question of future policy. It is one which must +exercise a very deep and abiding influence on the whole +history of an ancient and interesting people. But it is +exceedingly difficult to put in a short compass its most +salient points before those who are unacquainted with +the nature of the problems to be solved. Comparisons +are odious, above all places, in America, when they +are not to the advantage of the Great Republic, and +I shall not draw any between the state of the Indian +tribes in Canada and in the States. But it may be +fairly admitted that the Indian Question in Canada +is divested of many of the difficulties which surround +it south of the lakes. The people of Canada have far +more land than they know what to do with. They +are a sparse population. They are not impelled +to fierce adventures by mining "booms," and they +are altogether less progressive than their American +brethren. Shall we say that they are more charitable, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">202</a></span> +more humane, less greedy of other men's goods? I do +not say so. But at all events it is perfectly true that +the Red Man, although he is dying out under the +influence of whiskey and other influences which need +not be particularised, in his native land, lives in comparative +peace and comfort under the British flag in +Canada. He is content with the White Mother. He +pursues the occupations dear to his race as a hunter +and as a fisherman. He is a dealer in peltries, and in +such small barter as his needs require. He is the +companion of sportsmen, and he delights, free as mountain +air, to hunt on the hillside and in the prairie in +winter over the vast ranges of snowy fields which in +the few short months of spring and summer teem with +flowers, and the frosty lakes which yield fish to his spear +and net. There are few or no railways through his +reservations to vex his repose, no great trains of miners +with pick and rifle to drive away the moose and the +buffalo, and hand the native hunter over to starvation. +The Indian gives to the white man all he needs, and +aids him in obtaining from the wide stretch of land +over which he roams all the wealth that it can afford. +Practically one part of the Dominion is handed over +to the Red Man and to the half-breeds, for there +is an Indian frontier which as yet has not been much +encroached upon by any large migration of whites. +As far as I know, conflicts north of the Saint Lawrence +between Indians and whites are unknown, or have not +been heard of for very many years. South of the great +lakes, in the wonderful land over which is displayed the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">203</a></span> +banner of the stars and stripes, the fate of the Indian +is very different. In the words of Mr. Carl Schurz, +himself an expert in the question, "the history of the +relations of the United States with the Red Man +presents in great part a record of broken treaties, of +unjust wars and of cruel spoliation." That is a sweeping +statement, which it would be just as well for an +Englishman not to make, but coming from the mouth +of an American citizen and of a United States Minister +with plenty of evidence to back it, there can be no +harm in recording my conviction of its truth. It is +but another indictment against a defect in the form of +government which Americans exalt as the most perfect +of human institutions, that the central government +made treaties in good faith with the Indian tribes, but +was unable to enforce their obligations or to maintain +their integrity. There is, as all well-informed people +know—well informed, at least, in reference to American +affairs—a commissioner who makes an annual report +to the Secretary of the Interior respecting the Indian +tribes in the various locations over the Union and +the Territories. The last of these reports which I +have seen is that of the Acting Commissioner Mr. +Marble, addressed to the Department of the Interior +from the office of Indian Affairs at Washington in the +November of last year. The volume contains the +reports of the agents in the Indian Territory; of the +schools for Indian children established in pursuance of +a wise and humane policy, and detailed statistics in +relation to the Indian settlements and reservations, the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">204</a></span> +latter indeed forming by far the largest portion of the +volume of 400 pages. Before I call attention to the +condition of the Indians, and the efforts made to save +them from extinction or from a degradation worse than +annihilation, I should like to direct the attention of +those who are interested in the subject to the view +which is beginning to find favour, I believe, among +the most experienced men in the States, that the +system of "Reservations" is founded on a mistake the +magnitude of which is demonstrated every day, and that +the only means of saving the Indians from extinction +is their gradual absorption as educated communities in +the agricultural life of the nation, keeping them far +as may be from the white man, but making no other +distinction between them and the other citizens of the +United States than such as must be found in the nature +of the Indian race and their degree of culture and civilisation—treating +them, in fact, as communities of +Mennonites, Mormons, or Norwegians, or other nationalities +would be treated in the United States. When +the Reservations were first established it was considered +impossible that the migration of the whites +would extend to the remote regions of the west to +which the unfortunate survivors of the people with +whose virtues and vices Cooper and other novelists +have made us familiar were gradually and often remorselessly +driven. It is a plea which will be urged in +bar of judgment that the doctrine of States Rights +prevented the interference of the United States Government +on behalf of the Indian tribes who were often +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">205</a></span> +ruthlessly destroyed. But it will scarcely be a plea, +I think, which humanity in full court would recognise +as valid. <i>Homo homini lupus.</i> But to the Red Man +as to the Black in many cases the White Man is worse +than any wolf; far more bloodthirsty and rapacious +than any tiger—a Cain of Cains. It was our own kith +and kin who, landing on the shores of the North +American continent, encroaching by degrees upon the +tribes and at last encountering their hostility, spread +their sway literally by fire and sword, and rooted out +the Red Man wherever they found him established on +land or by sea which they coveted. We, whose countrymen +have worked out the same policy on the Australian +continent and Van Diemen's Land, and who can only +be restrained from its pursuit in New Zealand by the +strong arm of the Home Government, can scarcely +afford to take up stones to fling at our American +brethren; and it is not with any purpose of indictment +or accusation that I proceed to make a few remarks +on the relations of the United States Government with +the Red Man, and the efforts which they have been +making to compensate the Indians in some measure +for the injustice and persecution dealt out for many +a generation.</p> + +<p>As I looked at the men gathered at some of the +railroad stations in the western desert and thought +of the Red Men whose fate it is to meet such representatives +of civilisation and Christianity, I could not +but be filled with pity for the unfortunates and with +wonder at "the dispensation" under which they live. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">206</a></span> +The faces are fine and bold enough, bearded to the +cheek or shaved in the American fashion, with bold +staring eyes, which "look square" in your own, with +a general expression "Do you want a fight?" in them—the +heads to which they belong are generally set on +muscular bodies. If a gang of these men think fit to +go on to an Indian reservation—the very name is too +often a bitter mockery—who is to stop them? If the +Indians try to do so and one of the white intruders is +killed the country-side rings with cries of "vengeance +for the massacre of our brethren," and all the papers are +filled with accounts of "Another Indian Outbreak."</p> + +<p>"The average frontier-man in the States looks," as +Mr. Schurz says, "upon the Indian merely as a +nuisance in his way. There are many whom it would +be difficult to convince that it is a crime to kill an +Indian." I will go further and say that there are +many, I believe, who would take great pleasure in killing +an Indian whenever they could; or as one gentleman +observed to me, and I believe in his relations with +white men no more just or honourable man or more +humane could be found, "I would sooner kill an Indian +than I would a skunk." When I was in the West, +there was a cry raised that the Utes were about to +wage war, and appeals appeared in the local papers +for a military force to march against them. Their +leaders were accused of arrogance and of insolence, +and of murderous designs, and the general remark +one heard was, "The Utes must go." I inquired a +little into the matter when I got back, and I found +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">207</a></span> +that the Utes were strictly and absolutely, in their +own right, standing upon the titles, which they had +derived from the United States Government, to the +lands from which they were required to move. These +lands were wanted. Other lands were pointed out to +them, to which they objected, and then they were +informed that they would be moved by force, and preparations +were made to levy war against these unfortunates, +if they resisted deportation from the territory +which had been assigned to them by the Great Father. +Had they been Irish landlords, they could not have +been treated worse; but in the West not one word +was raised in favour of their claims.</p> + +<p>The first point which has to be considered is, that +the Indian is obnoxious to the very class of men with +whom he is by the necessity of things most closely +brought in contact. The railway has been the great +persecutor of Red Men. It has driven away the game, +it has carried in proximity to their reservations all the +enterprise charged with whiskey, revolver, rifle, and +greed, which can be furnished by the offscourings of +the world. In the Far West the miners in advance +throng into the valleys, and break the silence of the +mountain-ranges by the sound of their picks, the cattle-raisers +spread out over the plains, the ploughman settles +down on the fertile land. "What," asks the American +philanthropist, and his question is echoed all over the +world by humane and good men, "what is to become +of the Indian?" The hunting-grounds are gradually +being pushed farther west and north until they are +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">208</a></span> +bounded by the sea, and by the eternal snow. And if +by any chance it should be found that there is gold or +lead, silver or iron, or copper, or coal in any abundance, +even under these unpromising conditions it will be +sought. The buffalo is disappearing fast, faster than +the Indian himself. Deer are becoming scarcer every +year. What is to be left for the Red Man? Pastoral +life and agriculture, say the philanthropists. The +substitution, however, is not so easy. The weakness +of the United States Government is the main cause +why the policy of reservations has failed. Let us +take the account of it by a United States Minister. +"The Government," says Mr. Schurz, "has tried to +protect the Indians in good faith against encroachments, +and has failed. It has yielded to the pressure +exercised upon it by people in immediate contact +with the Indians. When a collision between Indians +and whites once occurred, no matter who was responsible +for it, our military forces were always found +on the side of the white against the savage. How +was Government to proclaim that white men should +for ever be excluded from the millions of acres covered +by Indian reservations, and that the national power +would be exerted to do so?" Such an idea the American +Minister thinks would be utterly preposterous. The +rough and ready frontier-man would pick quarrels +with the Indians; the speculators would urge him on. +Government could not prevent collisions; the conflict +once brought on, Government, in spite of its good +intentions and sense of justice, would find itself employing +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">209</a></span> +its forces to hunt down the Indian. The old +story would be repeated, as it will be wherever, says +Mr. Schurz, there is a large and valuable Indian Reservation +surrounded by white settlements, "and unjust, +disgraceful as it is, that is an inevitable result." +Such being the case then, the United States Government +being powerless to see that right shall be done, +and it being at once a human and a Christian duty to +avert, if possible, the extinction of the original possessors +of this grand continent, let us see what can be +done to carry out the object. Fit the Indians, it is +said, for the habits and occupations of civilised life; +give them individual possession of land as property, +a fee-simple title to the fields they cultivate, guarded +by an absolute prohibition of sale—because it has been +found that whenever the Indians are exposed to the +temptation of artful traders, they will be cajoled out +of the titles they have to their land—and you will save +the remnants from utter destruction. I hope it will +be so. I could not but feel a glow of enthusiasm when +I heard the Attorney-General, Mr. MacVeagh, at +Washington, speaking incidentally one day about some +railway matter, declare that he would not sanction +the making of a line of railway through Indian Territory +until he was satisfied that the Indians actually +understood the conditions which had been offered to +them by the company. "I will," said Mr. MacVeagh, +"send down government agents there to ascertain +that the Indians thoroughly understand what they are +doing, and that it is of their own free will and consent +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">210</a></span> +that the railway passes through their territory in exchange +for the money and goods they receive for the +concession." Excellent and just minister! But, alas! +I believe that ere I left the United States the whole +thing was done; the railway company had declared +that they would, whether or no, make their line, and +if an Indian touched a hair of the head of any white +man, the United States Government would not be able +to avert the Divine wrath of every white man on the +border from the whole of the tribe. Well may Mr. +Schurz say that the thought of exterminating a race +once the only occupants of the soil, where so many +millions of our own people have flourished, must be +revolting to every American who is not devoid of all +sentiments of justice and humanity. Extermination +or civilisation is the alternative offered to the Indian. +Now let us see how it is proposed to civilise them. +According to the returns in the Report for 1880, the +number of Indians in the United States, exclusive of +those in Alaska, is 256,127. Of these, 138,642 are +described as wearing citizen's dress. It will be observed +that there is no estimate given of the Indians who +do not wear citizen's dress under this head. Citizens +must be sometimes very badly dressed indeed if the +Indians I saw at various stations along the line to San +Francisco in shocking bad hats and tattered clothes were +to be included amongst those who figured under this +description in the report of the Commissioner. About +17,000 houses are reported as occupied. There are +224 schools, attended by 6000 scholars for a month +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">211</a></span> +or more during the year, scattered over the continent. +About 34,550 Indians could read. There were 154 +church buildings and 74 missionaries. The number of +children of school age was 34,541; but this was an +under estimate. Of these there was only school accommodation +for 9972. The total amount expended for +education during the year by the United States Government +was $249,299; by the State of New York, +$15,863; by the State of Pennsylvania, $325; by +other States, nothing; by religious societies, $46,933; +by tribal funds, $7481. 22,048 Indian families were +engaged in cultivating farms or small patches of +ground; 33,125 male Indians were labouring in civilised +pursuits; and 358 Indian apprentices had been +pursuing trades during the year. This census and +these statistics are stated to be imperfect, and it would +require a close examination of the returns to enable an +inquirer to form any idea as to the progress made in +the direction which we are told is the alternative of +destruction.</p> + +<p>The Reservations of the various Indian tribes are +scattered irregularly over the United States; from +Michigan, Wisconsin, and Minnesota on the north and +north-west, away to the Territories on the other side of +the Rocky Mountains, down to New Mexico and Arizona, +there being none in the southern states bordering the +Atlantic. But there are Red Men of different tribes +located, as the Americans would say, in the States to the +east, such as New York. The Reservations are of irregular +size and extent. Isabella, in the State of Maine, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">212</a></span> +reserved for 848 Indians, lies to the east of 86° longitude, +and south of 44° latitude. There is a considerable +group of Reservations on the western shore of +Lake Michigan in Wisconsin, and in Minnesota. But +the proper Indian territory lies west of Arkansas, +with the Red River on the south, New Mexico on +the west, and Kansas on the north; and in it are +concentrated the Cherokees, Choctaws, Chicasaws, +Comanches, Cheyennes, and several other tribes. The +Navajo Reservation in New Mexico and Arizona ranks +perhaps next in size, extending northwards into +Colorado, where the Utes have got a large tract of +land assigned to them upon what appears now to +be very doubtful or vanishing tenure. These, and +numerous reservations, which it would be tedious to +enumerate, are under the charge of agents appointed +by the Government at Washington, as to whose +functions and personal character and attainments one +hears very surprising and contradictory reports. But +I confess, from a perusal of the documents which they +have furnished to the head of the Department, and +which are published in the Annual Report, there +seems to me no just ground for imputing to these +gentlemen want of zeal, knowledge, interest, or +intelligence. Those who detest the whole work of +saving the Red Man are very apt to impute to the +Indian agents not only corrupt practices in relation to +the sale of government stores and supplies destined +for the use of those under their charge, but illicit +traffic in spirits, which is ruinous to the Red Man, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">213</a></span> +and even some participation in the acts of violence +which have frequently led to Indian troubles. It all +depends upon the manner in which your informant in +the States regards the Indian Question whether the +agents are described as scoundrels whom no man could +trust, or as gentlemen of high propriety and general +excellence.</p> + +<p>The necessities which have been imposed by advancing +civilisation of providing Indians with food +entail a heavy outlay upon the United States Government, +which is much begrudged by large sections of +members of Congress, although they do not see their way +clearly to withhold supplies of food from the unfortunate +people whose hunting-grounds have been occupied, +and who have not yet learned the arts of agriculture, +so as to be able to supply themselves with food. The +transportation of stores, the cost of beef, corn, coffee, +bread, tobacco, tea; in fact, all kinds of food, woollen +goods, clothing, boots, hats, groceries, waggons, tools, +hardware, and medical supplies,—all these duly figure +in the estimates of the Indian Commissioner to a very +considerable amount, and the returns as yet do not +present any large reduction on the annual charge; +although nearly all the agents speak in terms of great +hopefulness of the extraordinary advance which has +been made in their agencies in the cultivation of the +soil.</p> + +<p>One remarkable division of the agencies has reference +to their appropriation to religious denominations. +An Indian might well be puzzled as to his +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">214</a></span> +form of belief if he were passed through the various +agencies, attending at each a religious service or two, +and listening to the teaching of the various divines +attached to them. The Society of Friends have +control of the belief and religious teaching of the +Sante and Nemaja Indians in Nebraska, and of the +Pawnees in the Indian Territory; to the Methodists +are assigned three tribes in California, three tribes in +Washington Territory, two in Oregon, three in Montana, +two in Idaho, and one in Michigan. The Nevada +Cherokees, Creeks, Choctaws, Chicasaws, and Seminoles +are handed over to the Baptists. The Presbyterians +have charge of the Nezpercès in Idaho, Umtas in +Utah; the Apaches, Pueblos, and two other tribes +in New Mexico. The Congregational Church exercises +its religious offices among the tribes in Wisconsin, +among two tribes in Dacotah, and one in Washington +Territory. The Reformed Church has its work +cut out for it in Arizona amongst four tribes. The +Protestant Episcopal Church exercises its jurisdiction +over one tribe in Minnesota, six tribes in Dacotah, one +in Indian Territory, and one in Wyoming. The Unitarians +have apparently only one tribe in teaching, the +Los Pinos in Colorado. The United Presbyterians have +one tribe in Oregon; the Christian Union has another +in Oregon; the Evangelical Lutheran has charge of the +Southern Utes in Colorado; and lastly, the Roman +Catholic Church has two tribes in Washington Territory, +two in Oregon, one in Montana, and two in Dacotah. +As a general rule, the reports of the missionaries +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">215</a></span> +themselves are more sanguine, as they are wont to be, +than are those of disinterested, perhaps unprejudiced, +observers of their work. But, as is natural, the actual +progress made depends very much, not only upon the +nature of the tribe among whom the work is carried +on, but on the character of the missionary, and on his +ability and energy. In some instances, I see the condition +of a tribe is reported as being lamentable, +from a religious point of view, whilst in a neighbouring +reservation, it is stated that great progress has +been made in the establishment of religious teaching +and ideas. The Rosebud Agency is said to prosper in +the hands of one reverend gentlemen; the fathers of +St. Ignatius are described as doing good work amongst +the Flatheads; the Pawnees are left without any missionaries +at all, and, says the government report, "are +probably better off without them." And depreciatory +remarks are slightingly introduced concerning the work +at other agencies. On the Devil's Lake Agency, the majority +of the adults shun the missionaries as they +would the gentleman who may be supposed to own the +lake by the sides of which they are encamped. The +Jesuit fathers and the Catholic sisters are described +as working generally with zeal and success, whilst one +agency assigned to the Methodists is said to have +no religious agency at all. It is to the success of +the attempts made to educate the Indians at the +public establishments that the philanthropist and +humanitarian must look with the most hopefulness.</p> + +<p>All the reports of the teachers and visitors of these +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">216</a></span> +schools coincide in one point, that the young Indian +is most teachable, and that in respect of acquiring +knowledge he is, if anything, the superior of the white, +who seems to enjoy no hereditary excellence in his +capacity for acquiring knowledge. The Bill to which +the Report was an introduction may be considered +indeed as the Magna Charta of the Indian tribes if +it be followed up by judicious treatment, and careful +management of and consideration for the rights conferred +upon these tribes as preliminary to their absorption +as citizens in the mass of the nation, when +they are fit for such an amalgamation with the white +races. The advance of the United States westwards +has left vacant many military posts and barracks, +stranded, as it were, high and dry in the midst of +the torrent of civilisation. Fort Bridger, Wyoming; +Carlisle Barracks, Pennsylvania; Fort Craig, New +Mexico; Fort Cummings, in the same territory, and +a number of others, have been named as suitable for +the purpose of educating the Indian children; and it +was in pursuance of the measure recommended to Congress +that the various agencies throughout the Indian +Territories were directed to forward children whom +their parents might wish to entrust to the officers of +the United States for education. "Received in the +rudest state of savagism," says the Report, "their progress +is already most remarkable." I have already +remarked that the health of the boys is not generally +satisfactory. Their sanitary condition is bad; and it +would appear that sometimes in these long and tedious +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">217</a></span> +journeyings from the remote Indian agencies the poor +children suffer much.</p> + +<p>Even at the present moment the Anglo-Saxon +appears to be dealing with the Maori in New Zealand +very much as he has dealt with the native in Tasmania +and in Australia. The history of our relations with +the New Zealand chiefs and people is not in a nature +to enable us to throw stones at the Americans with +impunity, for the glass house in which we live can +very easily be reached. Some sixteen or seventeen +years ago a rebellion, arising out of the aggressions of +the white settlers on the lands of the Maori, was +averted by a Proclamation and by Acts confiscating +a large tract of Tallinassey, which became theoretically +the property of the Crown. Of course the +natives had as little to say to that as the lady who is +mentioned in 'Tristram Shandy' had with the declaration +that "she was not related to her own child." +But they did not recognise the occupancy, and whenever +a white man settled upon a portion of the ground +they pulled down his fences and removed his landmarks. +The contest is still going on, but no one who +is acquainted with the history of the colony will doubt +what the end will be; and it is coming soon, or it is +to come, the moment the colonists are bent upon +taking the land, and when it is desired to do so.</p> + +<p>"It but feebly expresses the judgment formed from +what we have observed to say that we regard the experiment +made in this school to educate and improve +Indian children as in every way a very remarkable +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">218</a></span> +success." <i>Si sic omnes!</i> Why does not the United +States Government, or if not the Government, the +people, abounding in wealth, full of pious impulses, +humane, charitable, who justly say that the worst use +you can make of an Indian is to hang him; why do +not the political economists who declare that it costs a +million of dollars to get rid of an Indian with gunpowder +and lead; why do not the enterprising and +wealthy capitalists who desire to appropriate Indian +Reservations all combine to extend the work of these +schools so as to absorb all that remains of the Red +Man in the rising generation amongst the citizens of +the great Republic? A blessed work, worthy of an +imperial State, truly great and truly good!</p> + +<p class="center p4">THE END.</p> +<hr class="l30 p4" /> + +<p class="center s08">LONDON:<br /> + +PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED.<br /> + +STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING CROSS.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"> +<h2 class="fntitle">FOOTNOTES</h2> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_A" id="Footnote_A" href="#FNanchor_A"><span class="label">[A]</span></a> How Mr. Garrett executed his mission and killed the Kid is +narrated in the account of the desperados of the West, which forms a +separate chapter.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_B" id="Footnote_B" href="#FNanchor_B"><span class="label">[B]</span></a>The day of our departure from the United States, after the visit +of which I have been giving the details, was the date of a great crime, +of which we were then ignorant. About the very time that we were +on our way to the wharf to embark on board the "<i>City of Berlin</i>," the +murderer of the President was accomplishing his purpose. But with +all the means and appliances which exist for the despatch of news, +I believe that the commission of the crime was not known till the +steamer had passed out to sea from the Sand Heads.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_C" id="Footnote_C" href="#FNanchor_C"><span class="label">[C]</span></a> <i>See also</i> Rose Library.</p> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C1" id="Page_C1">1</a></span></p> + +<p class="center p6"><i>A Catalogue of American and Foreign Books Published or +Imported by</i> <span class="smcap">Messrs. Sampson Low & Co.</span> <i>can +be had on application.</i></p> + +<p class="center"> +<i>Crown Buildings, 188, Fleet Street, London,<br /> +January, 1881.</i></p> + +<p class="center"><span class="b12">A Selection from the List of Books</span><br /> + +PUBLISHED BY<br /> + +<span class="b12">SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, & RIVINGTON.</span></p> + +<hr class="l05" /> +<p class="center">ALPHABETICAL LIST.</p> + +<p class="hanging"> +<i>A Classified Educational Catalogue of Works</i> published +in Great Britain. Demy 8vo, cloth extra. Second Edition, +revised and corrected to Christmas, 1879, 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>About Some Fellows.</i> By an <span class="smcap">Eton Boy</span>, Author of "A Day +of my Life." Cloth limp, square 16mo, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Adventures of Captain Mago.</i> A Phœnician's Explorations +1000 years <span class="smcap">B.C.</span> By <span class="smcap">Leon Cahun</span>. Numerous Illustrations. Crown +8vo, cloth extra, gilt edges, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; plainer binding, 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Adventures of a Young Naturalist.</i> By <span class="smcap">Lucien Biart</span>, with +117 beautiful Illustrations on Wood. Edited and adapted by <span class="smcap">Parker +Gillmore</span>. Post 8vo, cloth extra, gilt edges, New Edition, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Afghan Knife (The).</i> A Novel. By <span class="smcap">Robert Armitage +Sterndale</span>, Author of "Seonee." Small post 8vo, cloth extra, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>After Sundown; or, The Palette and the Pen.</i> By <span class="smcap">W. W. Fenn</span>, +Author of "Blind-Man's Holiday," &c. With Portrait of Author. +2 vols., crown 8vo, cloth extra, 24<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Albania: A Narrative of Recent Travel.</i> By <span class="smcap">E. F. Knight</span>. +With some very good Illustrations specially made for the work. +Crown 8vo, cloth extra, 12<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Alcott (Louisa M.) Jimmy's Cruise in the "Pinafore."</i> With 9 +Illustrations. Second Edition. Small post 8vo, cloth gilt, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Aunt Jo's Scrap-Bag.</i> Square 16mo, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> +(Rose Library, 1<i>s.</i>)</p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Little Men: Life at Plumfield with Jo's Boys.</i> Small +post 8vo, cloth, gilt edges, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> (Rose Library, Double vol. 2<i>s.</i>)</p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Little Women.</i> 1 vol., cloth, gilt edges, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> (Rose +Library, 2 vols., 1<i>s.</i> each.) +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C2" id="Page_C2">2</a></span></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Old-Fashioned Girl.</i> Best Edition, small +post 8vo, cloth extra, gilt edges, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> (Rose Library, 2<i>s.</i>)</p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Work and Beginning Again.</i> A Story of Experience. +1 vol., small post 8vo, cloth extra, 6<i>s.</i> Several Illustrations. (Rose +Library, 2 vols., 1<i>s.</i> each.)</p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Shawl Straps.</i> Small post 8vo, cloth extra, gilt, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Eight Cousins; or, the Aunt Hill.</i> Small post 8vo, +with Illustrations, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>The Rose in Bloom.</i> Small post 8vo, cloth extra, +3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Silver Pitchers.</i> Small post 8vo, cloth extra, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Under the Lilacs.</i> Small post 8vo, cloth extra, 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Jack and Jill.</i> Small post 8vo, cloth extra, 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="review">"Miss Alcott's stories are thoroughly healthy, full of racy fun and humour ... +exceedingly entertaining.... We can recommend the 'Eight Cousins.'"—<i>Athenæum.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Alpine Ascents and Adventures; or, Rock and Snow Sketches.</i> +By <span class="smcap">H. Schütz Wilson</span>, of the Alpine Club. With Illustrations by +<span class="smcap">Whymper</span> and <span class="smcap">Marcus Stone</span>. Crown 8vo, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> 2nd Edition.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Andersen (Hans Christian) Fairy Tales.</i> With Illustrations in +Colours by E. V. B. Royal 4to, cloth, 25<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Architecture (The Twenty Styles of).</i> By Dr. <span class="smcap">W. Wood</span>, Author +of "The Hundred Greatest Men." Imperial 8vo, with 52 Plates.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Art Education.</i> <i>See</i> "Illustrated Text Books."</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Autobiography of Sir G. Gilbert Scott, R.A., F.S.A., &c.</i> +Edited by his Son, <span class="smcap">G. Gilbert Scott</span>. With an Introduction by the +<span class="smcap">Dean of Chichester</span>, and a Funeral Sermon, preached in Westminster +Abbey, by the <span class="smcap">Dean of Westminster</span>. Also, Portrait on +steel from the portrait of the Author by <span class="smcap">G. Richmond</span>, R.A. 1 vol., +demy 8vo, cloth extra, 18<i>s.</i></p> + +<hr class="l30" /> +<p class="center b12">THE BAYARD SERIES,</p> + +<p class="center">Edited by the late <span class="smcap">J. Hain Friswell</span>.<br /> + +Comprising Pleasure Books of Literature produced in the Choicest Style as +Companionable Volumes at Home and Abroad.</p> + +<p class="review">"We can hardly imagine better books for boys to read or for men to ponder +over."—<i>Times.</i></p> + +<p class="review"><i>Price 2s. 6d. each Volume, complete in itself, flexible cloth extra, gilt edges, +with silk Headbands and Registers.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">The Story of the Chevalier Bayard. +By M. De Berville.</p> + +<p class="hanging">De Joinville's St. Louis, King of +France.</p> + +<p class="hanging">The Essays of Abraham Cowley, including +all his Prose Works.</p> + +<p class="hanging">Abdallah; or, The Four Leaves. +By Edouard Laboullaye. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C3" id="Page_C3">3</a></span></p> + +<p class="hanging">Table-Talk and Opinions of Napoleon +Buonaparte.</p> + +<p class="hanging">Vathek: An Oriental Romance. +By William Beckford.</p> + +<p class="hanging">The King and the Commons. A +Selection of Cavalier and Puritan +Songs. Edited by Professor +Morley.</p> + +<p class="hanging">Words of Wellington: Maxims and +Opinions of the Great Duke.</p> + +<p class="hanging">Dr. Johnson's Rasselas, Prince of +Abyssinia. With Notes.</p> + +<p class="hanging">Hazlitt's Round Table. With Biographical +Introduction.</p> + +<p class="hanging">The Religio Medici, Hydriotaphia, +and the Letter to a Friend. By +Sir Thomas Browne, Knt.</p> + +<p class="hanging">Ballad Poetry of the Affections. By +Robert Buchanan.</p> + +<p class="hanging">Coleridge's Christabel, and other +Imaginative Poems. With Preface +by Algernon C. Swinburne.</p> + +<p class="hanging">Lord Chesterfield's Letters, Sentences, +and Maxims. With Introduction +by the Editor, and +Essay on Chesterfield by M. de +Ste.-Beuve, of the French Academy.</p> + +<p class="hanging">Essays in Mosaic. By Thos. Ballantyne.</p> + +<p class="hanging">My Uncle Toby; his Story and his +Friends. Edited by P. Fitzgerald.</p> + +<p class="hanging">Reflections; or, Moral Sentences and +Maxims of the Duke de la Rochefoucauld.</p> + +<p class="hanging">Socrates: Memoirs for English +Readers from Xenophon's Memorabilia. +By Edw. Levien.</p> + +<p class="hanging">Prince Albert's Golden Precepts.</p> + +<p class="center s08"><i>A Case containing 12 Volumes, price 31s. 6d.; or the Case separately, price 3s. 6d.</i></p> + +<hr class="l30" /> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Beauty and the Beast.</i> An Old Tale retold, with Pictures by +E. V. B. 4to, cloth extra. 10 Illustrations in Colours. 12<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Begum's Fortune (The): A New Story.</i> By <span class="smcap">Jules Verne</span>. +Translated by <span class="smcap">W. H. G. Kingston</span>. Numerous Illustrations. +Crown 8vo, cloth, gilt edges, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; plainer binding, plain edges, 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Ben Hur: A Tale of the Christ.</i> By <span class="smcap">L. Wallace</span>. Crown +8vo, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Beumers' German Copybooks.</i> In six gradations at 4<i>d.</i> each.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Biart (Lucien).</i> <i>See</i> "Adventures of a Young Naturalist," +"My Rambles in the New World," "The Two Friends," "Involuntary +Voyage."</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Bickersteth's Hymnal Companion to Book of Common Prayer</i> +may be had in various styles and bindings from 1<i>d.</i> to 21<i>s.</i> <i>Price +List and Prospectus will be forwarded on application.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Bickersteth (Rev. E. H., M.A.) The Reef, and other Parables.</i> +1 vol., square 8vo, with numerous very beautiful Engravings, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>The Clergyman in his Home</i>. Small post 8vo, 1<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>The Master's Home-Call; or, Brief Memorials of</i> +<i>Alice Frances Bickersteth</i>. 20th Thousand. 32mo, cloth gilt, 1<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>The Master's Will</i>. A Funeral Sermon preached +on the Death of Mrs. S. Gurney Buxton. Sewn, 6<i>d.</i>; cloth gilt, 1<i>s.</i> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C4" id="Page_C4">4</a></span></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>The Shadow of the Rock.</i> A +Selection of Religious Poetry. 18mo, cloth extra, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>The Shadowed Home and the Light Beyond.</i> 7th +Edition, crown 8vo, cloth extra, 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Biographies of the Great Artists (Illustrated).</i> Each of the +following Volumes is illustrated with from twelve to twenty full-page +Engravings, printed in the best manner, and bound in ornamental +cloth cover, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> Library Edition, bound in a superior style, +and handsomely ornamented, with gilt top; six Volumes, enclosed +in a cloth case, with lid, £1 11<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> each case.</p> + +<ul class="author_list"> +<li><b>Hogarth.</b></li> +<li><b>Turner.</b></li> +<li><b>Rubens.</b></li> +<li><b>Holbein.</b></li> +<li><b>Tintoretto.</b></li> +<li><b>Little Masters of Germany.</b></li> +<li><b>Fra Angelico and Masaccio.</b></li> +<li><b>Fra Bartolommeo.</b></li> +<li><b>Giotto.</b></li> +<li><b>Raphael.</b></li> +<li><b>Van Dyck and Hals.</b></li> +<li><b>Titian.</b></li> +<li><b>Rembrandt.</b></li> +<li><b>Leonardo da Vinci.</b></li> +<li><b>Gainsborough and Constable.</b></li> +<li><b>Sir David Wilkie.</b></li> +<li><b>Van Eyck.</b></li> +<li><b>Figure Painters of Holland.</b></li> +<li><b>Michel Angelo.</b></li> +<li><b>Delaroche and Vernet.</b></li> +<li><b>Landseer.</b></li> +<li><b>Reynolds.</b></li> +</ul> + +<p class="review">"Few things in the way of small books upon great subjects, avowedly cheap and +necessarily brief, have been hitherto so well done as these biographies of the Great +Masters in painting."—<i>Times.</i></p> + +<p class="review">"A deserving series."—<i>Edinburgh Review.</i></p> + +<p class="review">"Most thoroughly and tastefully edited."—<i>Spectator.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Black (Wm.) Three Feathers.</i> Small post 8vo, cloth extra, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Lady Silverdale's Sweetheart, and other Stories.</i> 1 vol., +small post 8vo, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Kilmeny: a Novel.</i> Small post 8vo, cloth, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>In Silk Attire.</i> 3rd Edition, small post 8vo, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>A Daughter of Heth.</i> 11th Edition, small post 8vo, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Sunrise.</i> 15 Monthly Parts, 1<i>s.</i> each.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Blackmore (R. D.) Lorna Doone.</i> 10th Edition, cr. 8vo, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Alice Lorraine.</i> 1 vol., small post 8vo, 6th Edition, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Clara Vaughan.</i> Revised Edition, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Cradock Nowell.</i> New Edition, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Cripps the Carrier.</i> 3rd Edition, small post 8vo, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Mary Anerley.</i> New Edition, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Erema; or, My Father's Sin.</i> With 12 Illustrations, +small post 8vo, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Blossoms from the King's Garden: Sermons for Children.</i> By +the Rev. <span class="smcap">C. Bosanquet.</span> 2nd Edition, small post 8vo, cloth extra, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Blue Banner (The); or, The Adventures of a Mussulman, a +Christian, and a Pagan, in the time of the Crusades and Mongol +Conquest.</i> Translated from the French of <span class="smcap">Leon Cahun</span>. With +Seventy-six Wood Engravings. Imperial 16mo, cloth, gilt edges, +7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; plainer binding, 5<i>s.</i> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C5" id="Page_C5">5</a></span></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Boy's Froissart (The).</i> 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>See</i> "Froissart."</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Boy's King Arthur (The).</i> With very fine Illustrations. +Square crown 8vo, cloth extra, gilt edges, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> Edited by <span class="smcap">Sidney +Lanier</span>, Editor of "The Boy's Froissart."</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Brazil: the Amazons, and the Coast.</i> By <span class="smcap">Herbert H. Smith</span>. +With 115 Full-page and other Illustrations. Demy 8vo, 650 pp., 21<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Brazil and the Brazilians.</i> By <span class="smcap">J. C. Fletcher</span> and <span class="smcap">D. P. +Kidder</span>. 9th Edition, Illustrated, 8vo, 21<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Breton Folk: An Artistic Tour in Brittany.</i> By <span class="smcap">Henry +Blackburn</span>, Author of "Artists and Arabs," "Normandy Picturesque," +&c. With 171 Illustrations by <span class="smcap">Randolph Caldecott</span>. +Imperial 8vo, cloth extra, gilt edges, 21<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Bricks without Straw.</i> By the Author of "A Fool's Errand." +Crown 8vo, with numerous Illustrations, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>British Goblins: Welsh Folk-Lore, Fairy Mythology, Legends, +and Traditions.</i> By <span class="smcap">Wirt Sykes</span>, United States Consul for Wales. +With Illustrations by <span class="smcap">J. H. Thomas</span>. This account of the Fairy +Mythology and Folk-Lore of his Principality is, by permission, dedicated +to H.R.H. the Prince of Wales. Second Edition. 8vo, 18<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Buckle (Henry Thomas) The Life and Writings of.</i> By <span class="smcap">Alfred +Henry Huth</span>. With Portrait. 2 vols., demy 8vo.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Burnaby (Capt.)</i> <i>See</i> "On Horseback."</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Burnham Beeches (Heath, F. G.).</i> With numerous Illustrations +and a Map. Crown 8vo, cloth, gilt edges, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> Second Edition.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Butler (W. F.) The Great Lone Land; an Account of the Red +River Expedition, 1869-70.</i> With Illustrations and Map. Fifth and +Cheaper Edition, crown 8vo, cloth extra, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>The Wild North Land; the Story of a Winter Journey +with Dogs across Northern North America.</i> Demy 8vo, cloth, with +numerous Woodcuts and a Map, 4th Edition, 18<i>s.</i> Cr. 8vo, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Akim-foo: the History of a Failure.</i> Demy 8vo, cloth, +2nd Edition, 16<i>s.</i> Also, in crown 8vo, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging p2"><i>Cadogan (Lady A.) Illustrated Games of Patience.</i> +Twenty-four Diagrams in Colours, with Descriptive Text. Foolscap +4to, cloth extra, gilt edges, 3rd Edition, 12<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Caldecott (R.).</i> <i>See</i> "Breton Folk."</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Celebrated Travels and Travellers.</i> <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Verne</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Changed Cross (The)</i>, and other Religious Poems. 16mo, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Child of the Cavern (The); or, Strange Doings Underground.</i> +By <span class="smcap">Jules Verne</span>. Translated by <span class="smcap">W. H. G. Kingston</span>. Numerous +Illustrations. Sq. cr. 8vo, gilt edges, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; cl., plain edges, 5<i>s.</i> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C6" id="Page_C6">6</a></span></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Child's Play</i>, with 16 Coloured Drawings by E. V. B. Printed +on thick paper, with tints, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>New</i>. By E. V. B. Similar to the above. <i>See</i> New.</p> + +<p class="hanging">—— A New and Cheap Edition of the two above, containing +48 Illustrations by E. V. B., printed in tint, handsomely +bound, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Children's Lives and How to Preserve Them; or, The Nursery +Handbook.</i> By <span class="smcap">W. Lomas, M.D.</span> Crown 8vo, cloth, 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Choice Editions of Choice Books.</i> 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> each, Illustrated by +<span class="smcap">C. W. Cope</span>, R.A., <span class="smcap">T. Creswick</span>, R.A., <span class="smcap">E. Duncan</span>, <span class="smcap">Birket +Foster</span>, <span class="smcap">J. C. Horsley</span>, A.R.A., <span class="smcap">G. Hicks</span>, <span class="smcap">R. Redgrave</span>, R.A., +<span class="smcap">C. Stonehouse</span>, <span class="smcap">F. Tayler</span>, <span class="smcap">G. Thomas</span>, <span class="smcap">H. J. Townshend</span>, +<span class="smcap">E. H. Wehnert</span>, <span class="smcap">Harrison Weir</span>, &c.</p> + +<ul class="author_list"> +<li>Bloomfield's Farmer's Boy.</li> +<li>Campbell's Pleasures of Hope.</li> +<li>Coleridge's Ancient Mariner.</li> +<li>Goldsmith's Deserted Village.</li> +<li>Goldsmith's Vicar of Wakefield.</li> +<li>Gray's Elegy in a Churchyard.</li> +<li>Keat's Eve of St. Agnes.</li> +<li>Milton's L'Allegro.</li> +<li>Poetry of Nature. Harrison Weir.</li> +<li>Rogers' (Sam.) Pleasures of Memory.</li> +<li>Shakespeare's Songs and Sonnets.</li> +<li>Tennyson's May Queen.</li> +<li>Elizabethan Poets.</li> +<li>Wordsworth's Pastoral Poems.</li> +</ul> + +<p class="review">"Such works are a glorious beatification for a poet."—<i>Athenæum.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Christ in Song.</i> By Dr. <span class="smcap">Philip Schaff</span>. A New Edition, +Revised, cloth, gilt edges, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Cobbett</i> (<i>William</i>). A Biography. By <span class="smcap">Edward Smith</span>. 2 +vols., crown 8vo, 25<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Confessions of a Frivolous Girl (The): A Novel of Fashionable +Life.</i> Edited by <span class="smcap">Robert Grant</span>. Crown 8vo, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Cradle-Land of Arts and Creeds; or, Nothing New under the +Sun.</i> By <span class="smcap">Charles J. Stone</span>, Barrister-at-law, and late Advocate, +High Courts, Bombay. 8vo, pp. 420, cloth, 14<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Cripps the Carrier.</i> 3rd Edition, 6<i>s.</i> See <span class="smcap">Blackmore</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Cruise of H.M.S. "Challenger" (The).</i> By <span class="smcap">W. J. J. Spry</span>, R.N. +With Route Map and many Illustrations. 6th Edition, demy 8vo, cloth, +18<i>s.</i> Cheap Edition, crown 8vo, some of the Illustrations, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Curious Adventures of a Field Cricket.</i> By Dr. <span class="smcap">Ernest +Candèze</span>. Translated by <span class="smcap">N. D'Anvérs</span>. With numerous fine +Illustrations. Crown 8vo, gilt, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; plain binding and edges, 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging p2"><i>Dana (R. H.) Two Years before the Mast and Twenty-Four +years After.</i> Revised. Edition, with Notes, 12mo, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Daughter (A) of Heth.</i> By <span class="smcap">W. Black</span>. Crown 8vo, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Day of My Life (A); or, Every Day Experiences at Eton.</i> +By an <span class="smcap">Eton Boy</span>, Author of "About Some Fellows." 16mo, cloth +extra, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> 6th Thousand. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C7" id="Page_C7">7</a></span></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Diane.</i> By Mrs. <span class="smcap">Macquoid</span>. Crown 8vo, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Dick Cheveley: his Fortunes and Misfortunes.</i> By <span class="smcap">W. H. G. +Kingston</span>. 350 pp., square 16mo, and 22 full-page Illustrations. +Cloth, gilt edges, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; plainer binding, plain edges, 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Dick Sands, the Boy Captain.</i> By <span class="smcap">Jules Verne</span>. With +nearly 100 Illustrations, cloth, gilt, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; plain binding and plain +edges, 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Dictionary (General) of Archæology and Antiquities.</i> From +the French of <span class="smcap">E. Bosc</span>. Crown 8vo, with nearly 200 Illustrations, +10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Dodge (Mrs. M.) Hans Brinker; or, the Silver Skates.</i> An +entirely New Edition, with 59 Full-page and other Woodcuts. +Square crown 8vo, cloth extra, 5<i>s.</i>; Text only, paper, 1<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Dogs of Assize.</i> A Legal Sketch-Book in Black and White. +Containing 6 Drawings by <span class="smcap">Walter J. Allen</span>. Folio, in wrapper, 6<i>s.</i> 8<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging p2"><i>Eight Cousins</i>. <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Alcott</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Eighteenth Century Studies.</i> Essays by <span class="smcap">F. Hitchman</span>. +Demy 8vo, 18<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Elementary Education in Saxony.</i> By <span class="smcap">J. L. Bashford</span>, M.A., +Trin. Coll., Camb. For Masters and Mistresses of Elementary +Schools. Sewn, 1<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Elinor Dryden.</i> By Mrs. <span class="smcap">Macquoid</span>. Crown 8vo, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Embroidery (Handbook of).</i> By <span class="smcap">L. Higgin</span>. Edited by <span class="smcap">Lady +Marian Alford</span>, and published by authority of the Royal School of +Art Needlework. With 16 page Illustrations, Designs for Borders, +&c. Crown 8vo, 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>English Philosophers.</i> Edited by <span class="smcap">Iwan Muller</span>, M.A., New +College, Oxon. A Series of Volumes containing short biographies +of the most celebrated English Philosophers, to each of whom is +assigned a separate volume, giving as comprehensive and detailed a +statement of his views and contributions to Philosophy as possible, +explanatory rather than critical, opening with a brief biographical +sketch, and concluding with a short general summary, and a bibliographical +appendix. The Volumes will be issued at brief intervals, in +square 16mo, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>, containing about 200 pp. each.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>The following are in the press</i>:—-</p> +<ul class="author_list"> +<li><b>Bacon.</b> Professor <span class="smcap">Fowler</span>, Professor of Logic in Oxford.</li> + +<li><b>Berkeley.</b> Professor <span class="smcap">T. H. Green</span>, Professor of Moral Philosophy, +Oxford.</li> + +<li><b>Hamilton.</b> Professor <span class="smcap">Monk</span>, Professor of Moral Philosophy, Dublin. +[<i>Ready.</i></li> + +<li><b>J. S. Mill.</b> <span class="smcap">Helen Taylor</span>, Editor of "The Works of Buckle," &c. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C8" id="Page_C8">8</a></span></li> + +<li><b>Mansel.</b> Rev. <span class="smcap">J. H. Huckin, D.D.</span>, Head Master of Repton.</li> + +<li><b>Adam Smith.</b> <span class="smcap">J. A. Farrer, M.A.</span>, Author of "Primitive Manners and Customs." +[<i>Ready.</i></li> + +<li><b>Hobbes.</b> <span class="smcap">A. H. Gosset, B.A.</span>, Fellow of New College, Oxford.</li> + +<li><b>Bentham.</b> <span class="smcap">G. E. Buckle, M.A.</span>, Fellow of All Souls', Oxford.</li> + +<li><b>Austin.</b> <span class="smcap">Harry Johnson, B.A.</span>, late Scholar of Queen's College, Oxford.</li> + +<li><b>Hartley.</b> } <span class="smcap">E. S. Bowen, B.A.</span>, late Scholar of New College,</li> + +<li><b>James Mill.</b> } Oxford. +[<i>Ready.</i></li> + +<li><b>Shaftesbury.</b> } Professor <span class="smcap">Fowler</span>.</li> + +<li><b>Hutcheson.</b> }</li> +</ul> + +<p class="review"><i>Arrangements are in progress for volumes on</i> <span class="smcap">Locke</span>, <span class="smcap">Hume</span>, <span class="smcap">Paley</span>, <span class="smcap">Reid</span>, <i>&c.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Episodes of French History.</i> Edited, with Notes, Genealogical, +Historical, and other Tables, by <span class="smcap">Gustave Masson, B.A.</span></p> +<ul class="author_list"> +<li><b>1. Charlemagne and the Carlovingians.</b></li> + +<li><b>2. Louis XI. and the Crusades.</b></li> + +<li><b>3. Francis I. and Charles V.</b></li> + +<li><b>4. Francis I. and the Renaissance.</b></li> +</ul> +<p class="review">The above Series is based upon M. Guizot's "History of France." +Each volume is choicely Illustrated, with Maps, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Erema; or, My Father's Sin.</i> <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Blackmore</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Etcher (The).</i> Containing 36 Examples of the Original +Etched work of Celebrated Artists, amongst others: <span class="smcap">Birket Foster</span>, +<span class="smcap">J. E. Hodgson, R.A.</span>, <span class="smcap">Colin Hunter</span>, <span class="smcap">J. P. Heseltine</span>, <span class="smcap">Robert +W. Macbeth</span>, <span class="smcap">R. S. Chattock</span>, <span class="smcap">H. R. Robertson</span>, &c., &c. +Imperial 4to, cloth extra, gilt edges, 2<i>l.</i> 12<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Eton.</i> <i>See</i> "Day of my Life," "Out of School," "About Some +Fellows."</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Evans (C.) Over the Hills and Far Away.</i> By <span class="smcap">C. Evans</span>. +One Volume, crown 8vo, cloth extra, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>A Strange Friendship.</i> Crown 8vo, cloth, 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Eve of Saint Agnes (The).</i> By <span class="smcap">John Keats</span>. Illustrated with +Nineteen Etchings by <span class="smcap">Charles O. Murray</span>. Folio, cloth extra, 21<i>s.</i> +An Edition de Luxe on large paper, containing proof impressions, has +been printed, and specially bound, 3<i>l.</i> 3<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging p2"><i>Farm Ballads.</i> By <span class="smcap">Will Carleton</span>. Boards, 1<i>s.</i>; cloth, +gilt edges, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Fern Paradise (The): A Plea for the Culture of Ferns.</i> By +<span class="smcap">F. G. Heath</span>. New Edition, entirely Rewritten, Illustrated with +Eighteen full-page, numerous other Woodcuts, including 8 Plates of +Ferns and Four Photographs, large post 8vo, cloth, gilt edges, 12<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> +Sixth Edition. In 12 Parts, sewn, 1<i>s.</i> each.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C9" id="Page_C9">9</a></span> +<i>Fern World (The).</i> By <span class="smcap">F. G. Heath</span>. Illustrated by Twelve +Coloured Plates, giving complete Figures (Sixty-four in all) of every +Species of British Fern, printed from Nature; by several full-page +Engravings. Cloth, gilt, 6th Edition, 12<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="review">"Mr. <span class="smcap">Heath</span> has really given us good, well-written descriptions of our native +Ferns, with indications of their habitats, the conditions under which they grow +naturally, and under which they may be cultivated."—<i>Athenæum.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Few (A) Hints on Proving Wills.</i> Enlarged Edition, 1<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>First Steps in Conversational French Grammar.</i> By <span class="smcap">F. Julien</span>. +Being an Introduction to "Petites Leçons de Conversation et de +Grammaire," by the same Author. Fcap. 8vo, 128 pp., 1<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Flooding of the Sahara (The).</i> <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Mackenzie</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Food for the People; or, Lentils and other Vegetable Cookery.</i> +By <span class="smcap">E. E. Orlebar</span>. Third Thousand. Small post 8vo, boards, 1<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Fool's Errand (A).</i> By <span class="smcap">One of the Fools</span>. Author of "Bricks +without Straw." Crown 8vo, cloth extra, with numerous Illustrations, +8<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Footsteps of the Master.</i> <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Stowe</span> (Mrs. <span class="smcap">Beecher</span>).</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Forbidden Land (A): Voyages to the Corea.</i> By <span class="smcap">G. Oppert</span>. +Numerous Illustrations and Maps. Demy 8vo, cloth extra, 21<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Four Lectures on Electric Induction.</i> Delivered at the Royal +Institution, 1878-9. By <span class="smcap">J. E. H. Gordon</span>, B.A. Cantab. With +numerous Illustrations. Cloth limp, square 16mo, 3<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Foreign Countries and the British Colonies.</i> Edited by <span class="smcap">F. S. +Pulling</span>, M.A., Lecturer at Queen's College, Oxford, and formerly +Professor at the Yorkshire College, Leeds. A Series of small Volumes +descriptive of the principal Countries of the World by well-known +Authors, each Country being treated of by a Writer who from +Personal Knowledge is qualified to speak with authority on the Subject. +The Volumes average 180 crown 8vo pages each, contain 2 Maps +and Illustrations, crown 8vo, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="center s08"><i>The following is a List of the Volumes</i>:—</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Denmark and Iceland.</b> By <span class="smcap">E. C. Otte</span>, Author of "Scandinavian +History," &c.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Greece.</b> By <span class="smcap">L. Sergeant</span>, B.A., Knight of the Hellenic Order +of the Saviour, Author of "New Greece."</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Switzerland.</b> By <span class="smcap">W. A. P. Coolidge</span>, M.A., Fellow of +Magdalen College, Editor of <i>The Alpine Journal</i>.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Austria.</b> By <span class="smcap">D. Kay</span>, F.R.G.S.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Russia.</b> By <span class="smcap">W. R. Morfill</span>, M.A., Oriel College, Oxford, +Lecturer on the Ilchester Foundation, &c.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Persia.</b> By Major-Gen. Sir <span class="smcap">F. J. Goldsmid</span>, K.C.S.I., Author of +"Telegraph and Travel," &c.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Japan.</b> By <span class="smcap">S. Mossman</span>, Author of "New Japan," &c.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Peru.</b> By <span class="smcap">Clements H. Markham</span>, M.A., C.B.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Canada.</b> By <span class="smcap">W. Fraser Rae</span>, Author of "Westward by +Rail," &c.</p> + +<p class="country"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C10" id="Page_C10">10</a></span> +<b>Sweden and Norway.</b> By the Rev. <span class="smcap">F. H. Woods</span>, M.A., Fellow +of St. John's College, Oxford.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>The West Indies.</b> By <span class="smcap">C. H. Eden</span>, F.R.G.S., Author of "Frozen +Asia," &c.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>New Zealand.</b></p> + +<p class="country"><b>France.</b> By Miss <span class="smcap">M. Roberts</span>, Author of "The Atelier du Lys," +"Mdlle. Mori," &c.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Egypt.</b> By <span class="smcap">S. Lane Poole</span>, B.A., Author of "The Life of Edward +Lane," &c.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Spain.</b> By the Rev. <span class="smcap">Wentworth Webster</span>, M.A., Chaplain at +St. Jean de Luz.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Turkey-in-Asia.</b> By <span class="smcap">J. C. McCoan</span>, M.P.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Australia.</b> By <span class="smcap">J. F. Vesey Fitzgerald</span>, late Premier of New +South Wales.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Holland.</b> By <span class="smcap">R. L. Poole</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Franc (Maude Jeane).</i> The following form one Series, small +post 8vo, in uniform cloth bindings, with gilt edges:—</p> + +<ul class="none"> +<li>—— <i>Emily's Choice.</i> 5<i>s.</i></li> +<li>—— <i>Hall's Vineyard.</i> 4<i>s.</i></li> +<li>—— <i>John's Wife: a Story of Life in South Australia.</i> 4<i>s.</i></li> +<li>—— <i>Marian; or, the Light of Some One's Home.</i> 5<i>s.</i></li> +<li>—— <i>Silken Cords and Iron Fetters.</i> 4<i>s.</i></li> +<li>—— <i>Vermont Vale.</i> 5<i>s.</i></li> +<li>—— <i>Minnie's Mission.</i> 4<i>s.</i></li> +<li>—— <i>Little Mercy.</i> 5<i>s.</i></li> +<li>—— <i>Beatrice Melton's Discipline.</i> 4<i>s.</i></li> +</ul> + +<p class="hanging p2"><i>Froissart (The Boy's).</i> Selected from the Chronicles of England, +France, Spain, &c. By <span class="smcap">Sidney Lanier</span>. The Volume is +fully Illustrated, and uniform with "The Boy's King Arthur." Crown +8vo, cloth, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging p2"><i>Games of patience.</i> <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Cadogan</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Gentle Life</i> (Queen Edition). 2 vols, in 1, small 4to, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> +<hr class="l15" /> +<p class="center b12">THE GENTLE LIFE SERIES.</p> + +<p class="center">Price 6<i>s.</i> each; or in calf extra, price 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; Smaller Edition, cloth +extra, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="review">A Reprint (with the exception of "Familiar Words" and "Other +People's Windows") has been issued in very neat limp cloth bindings +at 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> each.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>The Gentle Life.</i> Essays in aid of the Formation of Character +of Gentlemen and Gentlewomen. 21st Edition.</p> + +<p class="review">"Deserves to be printed in letters of gold, and circulated in every house."—<i>Chambers' +Journal.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C11" id="Page_C11">11</a></span> +<i>About in the World.</i> Essays by Author of "The Gentle Life."</p> + +<p class="review">"It is not easy to open it at any page without finding some handy idea."—<i>Morning +Post.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Like unto Christ.</i> A New Translation of Thomas à Kempis' +"De Imitatione Christi." 2nd Edition.</p> + +<p class="review">"Could not be presented in a more exquisite form, for a more sightly volume was +never seen."—<i>Illustrated London News.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Familiar Words.</i> An Index Verborum, or Quotation Handbook. +Affording an immediate Reference to Phrases and Sentences +that have become embedded in the English language. 4th and +enlarged Edition. 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="review">"The most extensive dictionary of quotation we have met with."—<i>Notes and +Queries.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Essays by Montaigne.</i> Edited and Annotated by the Author +of "The Gentle Life." With Portrait. 2nd Edition.</p> + +<p class="review">"We should be glad if any words of ours could help to bespeak a large circulation +for this handsome attractive book."—<i>Illustrated Times.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>The Countess of Pembroke's Arcadia.</i> Written by Sir <span class="smcap">Philip +Sidney</span>. Edited with Notes by Author of "The Gentle Life." 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="review">"All the best things are retained intact in Mr. Friswell's edition."—<i>Examiner.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>The Gentle Life.</i> 2nd Series, 8th Edition.</p> + +<p class="review">"There is not a single thought in the volume that does not contribute in some +measure to the formation of a true gentleman."—<i>Daily News.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>The Silent Hour: Essays, Original and Selected.</i> By the +Author of "The Gentle Life." 3rd Edition.</p> + +<p class="review">"All who possess 'The Gentle Life' should own this volume."—<i>Standard.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Half-Length Portraits.</i> Short Studies of Notable Persons. +By <span class="smcap">J. Hain Friswell</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Essays on English Writers</i>, for the Self-improvement of +Students in English Literature.</p> + +<p class="review">"To all who have neglected to read and study their native literature we would +certainly suggest the volume before us as a fitting introduction."—<i>Examiner.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Other People's Windows.</i> By <span class="smcap">J. Hain Friswell</span>. 3rd Edition.</p> + +<p class="review">"The chapters are so lively in themselves, so mingled with shrewd views of +human nature, so full of illustrative anecdotes, that the reader cannot fail to be +amused."—<i>Morning Post.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>A Man's Thoughts.</i> By <span class="smcap">J. Hain Friswell</span>.</p> +<hr class="l15" /> +<p class="hanging"><i>German Primer.</i> Being an Introduction to First Steps in +German. By <span class="smcap">M. T. Preu</span>. 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Getting On in the World; or, Hints on Success in Life.</i> By +<span class="smcap">W. Mathews</span>, LL.D. Small post 8vo, cloth, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; gilt edges, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Gilpin's Forest Scenery.</i> Edited by <span class="smcap">F. G. Heath</span>. Large +post 8vo, with numerous Illustrations. Uniform with "The Fern +World," 12<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> In 6 monthly parts, 2<i>s.</i> each.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C12" id="Page_C12">12</a></span> +<i>Gordon (J. E. H.).</i> <i>See</i> "Four Lectures on Electric Induction," +"Physical Treatise on Electricity," &c.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Gouffé. The Royal Cookery Book.</i> By <span class="smcap">Jules Gouffé</span>; translated +and adapted for English use by <span class="smcap">Alphonse Gouffé</span>, Head +Pastrycook to her Majesty the Queen. Illustrated with large plates +printed in colours. 161 Woodcuts, 8vo, cloth extra, gilt edges, 2<i>l.</i> 2<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Domestic Edition, half-bound, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="review">"By far the ablest and most complete work on cookery that has ever been submitted +to the gastronomical world."—<i>Pall Mall Gazette.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Great Artists.</i> <i>See</i> "Biographies."</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Great Historic Galleries of England (The).</i> Edited by <span class="smcap">Lord +Ronald Gower</span>, F.S.A., Trustee of the National Portrait Gallery. +Illustrated by 24 large and carefully-executed <i>permanent</i> Photographs +of some of the most celebrated Pictures by the Great Masters. Imperial +4to, cloth extra, gilt edges, 36<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Great Musicians (The).</i> A Series of Biographies of the Great +Musicians. Edited by <span class="smcap">F. Hueffer</span>.</p> + +<ul class="author_list"> +<li><b>1. Wagner.</b> By the <span class="smcap">Editor</span>.</li> +<li><b>2. Weber.</b> By Sir <span class="smcap">Julius Benedict</span>.</li> +<li><b>3. Mendelssohn.</b> By <span class="smcap">Joseph Bennett</span>.</li> +<li><b>4. Schubert.</b> By <span class="smcap">H. F. Frost</span>.</li> +<li><b>5. Rossini</b>, and the Modern Italian School. By <span class="smcap">H. Sutherland Edwards</span>.</li> +<li><b>6. Marcello.</b> By <span class="smcap">Arrigo Boito</span>.</li> +<li><b>7. Purcell.</b> By <span class="smcap">H. W. Cummings</span>.</li> +</ul> + +<p class="review">Dr. Hiller and other distinguished writers, both English and +Foreign, have promised contributions. Each Volume is complete in +itself. Small post 8vo, cloth extra, 3<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Guizot's History of France.</i> Translated by <span class="smcap">Robert Black</span>. +Super-royal 8vo, very numerous Full-page and other Illustrations. In +8 vols., cloth extra, gilt, each 24<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="review">"It supplies a want which has long been felt, and ought to be in the hands of all +students of history."—<i>Times.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— —— <i>Masson's School Edition.</i> The +History of France from the Earliest Times to the Outbreak of the +Revolution; abridged from the Translation by Robert Black, M.A., +with Chronological Index, Historical and Genealogical Tables, &c. +By Professor <span class="smcap">Gustave Masson</span>, B.A., Assistant Master at Harrow +School. With 24 full-page Portraits, and many other Illustrations. +1 vol., demy 8vo, 600 pp., cloth extra, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Guizot's History of England.</i> In 3 vols. of about 500 pp. each, +containing 60 to 70 Full-page and other Illustrations, cloth extra, gilt, +24<i>s.</i> each.</p> + +<p class="review">"For luxury of typography, plainness of print, and beauty of illustration, these +volumes, of which but one has as yet appeared in English, will hold their own +against any production of an age so luxurious as our own in everything, typography +not excepted."—<i>Times.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Guyon (Mde.) Life.</i> By <span class="smcap">Upham</span>. 6th Edition, crown 8vo, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C13" id="Page_C13">13</a></span> +<i>Handbook to the Charities of London.</i> <i>See</i> Low's.</p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>of Embroidery</i>; <i>which see</i>.</p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>to the Principal Schools of England.</i> <i>See</i> Practical.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Half-Hours of Blind Man's Holiday; or, Summer and Winter +Sketches in Black and White.</i> By <span class="smcap">W. W. Fenn</span>, Author of "After +Sundown," &c. 2 vols., cr. 8vo, 24<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Hall (W. W.) How to Live Long; or, 1408 Health Maxims, +Physical, Mental, and Moral.</i> By <span class="smcap">W. W. Hall</span>, A.M., M.D. +Small post 8vo, cloth, 2<i>s.</i> Second Edition.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Hans Brinker; or, the Silver Skates.</i> <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Dodge</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Harper's Monthly Magazine.</i> Published Monthly. 160 pages, +fully Illustrated. 1<i>s.</i> With two Serial Novels by celebrated Authors.</p> + +<p class="review">"'Harper's Magazine' is so thickly sown with excellent illustrations that to count +them would be a work of time; not that it is a picture magazine, for the engravings +illustrate the text after the manner seen in some of our choicest <i>editions de luxe</i>."—<i>St. +James's Gazette.</i></p> + +<p class="review">"It is so pretty, so big, and so cheap.... An extraordinary shillingsworth—160 +large octavo pages, with over a score of articles, and more than three times as +many illustrations."—<i>Edinburgh Daily Review.</i></p> + +<p class="review">"An amazing shillingsworth ... combining choice literature of both nations."—<i>Nonconformist.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Heart of Africa.</i> Three Years' Travels and Adventures in the +Unexplored Regions of Central Africa, from 1868 to 1871. By Dr. +<span class="smcap">Georg Schweinfurth</span>. Numerous Illustrations, and large Map. +2 vols., crown 8vo, cloth, 15<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Heath (Francis George).</i> <i>See</i> "Fern World," "Fern Paradise," +"Our Woodland Trees," "Trees and Ferns," "Gilpin's Forest +Scenery," "Burnham Beeches," "Sylvan Spring," &c.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Heber's (Bishop) Illustrated Edition of Hymns.</i> With upwards +of 100 beautiful Engravings. Small 4to, handsomely bound, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> +Morocco, 18<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> and 21<i>s.</i> An entirely New Edition.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Heir of Kilfinnan (The).</i> New Story by <span class="smcap">W. H. G. Kingston</span>, +Author of "Snow Shoes and Canoes," &c. With Illustrations. Cloth, +gilt edges, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; plainer binding, plain edges, 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>History and Handbook of Photography.</i> Translated from the +French of <span class="smcap">Gaston Tissandier</span>. Edited by <span class="smcap">J. Thomson</span>. Imperial +16mo, over 300 pages, 70 Woodcuts, and Specimens of Prints by the +best Permanent Processes. Second Edition, with an Appendix by +the late Mr. <span class="smcap">Henry Fox Talbot</span>. Cloth extra, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>History of a Crime (The); Deposition of an Eye-witness.</i> By +<span class="smcap">Victor Hugo</span>. 4 vols., crown 8vo, 42<i>s.</i> Cheap Edition, 1 vol., 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Ancient Art.</i> Translated from the German of <span class="smcap">John +Winckelmann</span>, by <span class="smcap">John Lodge</span>, M.D. With very numerous +Plates and Illustrations. 2 vols., 8vo, 36<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>England.</i> <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Guizot</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>France.</i> <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Guizot</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C14" id="Page_C14">14</a></span> +—— <i>Russia.</i> <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Rambaud</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Merchant Shipping.</i> <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Lindsay</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>United States.</i> <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Bryant</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>History and Principles of Weaving by Hand and by Power.</i> With +several hundred Illustrations. By <span class="smcap">Alfred Barlow</span>. Royal 8vo, +cloth extra, 1<i>l.</i> 5<i>s.</i> Second Edition.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>How I Crossed Africa: from the Atlantic to the Indian Ocean, +Through Unknown Countries; Discovery of the Great Zambesi +Affluents, &c.</i>—Vol. I., The King's Rifle. Vol. II., The Coillard +Family. By Major <span class="smcap">Serpa Pinto</span>. With 24 full-page and 118 half-page +and smaller Illustrations, 13 small Maps, and 1 large one. +2 vols., demy 8vo, cloth extra, 42<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>How to Live Long.</i> <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Hall</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>How to get Strong and how to Stay so.</i> By <span class="smcap">William Blaikie</span>. +A Manual of Rational, Physical, Gymnastic, and other Exercises. +With Illustrations, small post 8vo, 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Hugo (Victor). "Ninety-Three."</i> Illustrated. Crown 8vo, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Toilers of the Sea.</i> Crown 8vo. Illustrated, 6<i>s.</i>; fancy +boards, 2<i>s.</i>; cloth, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; On large paper with all the original +Illustrations, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>See</i> "History of a Crime."</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Hundred Greatest Men (The).</i> 8 portfolios, 21<i>s.</i> each, or 4 +vols., half morocco, gilt edges, 12 guineas, containing 15 to 20 +Portraits each. See below.</p> + +<p class="review">"Messrs. <span class="smcap">Sampson Low & Co.</span> are about to issue an important 'International' +work, entitled, 'THE HUNDRED GREATEST MEN;' being the Lives and +Portraits of the 100 Greatest Men of History, divided into Eight Classes, each Class +to form a Monthly Quarto Volume. The Introductions to the volumes are to be +written by recognized authorities on the different subjects, the English contributors +being <span class="smcap">Dean Stanley</span>, Mr. <span class="smcap">Matthew Arnold</span>, Mr. <span class="smcap">Froude</span>, and Professor <span class="smcap">Max +Müller</span>; in Germany, Professor <span class="smcap">Helmholtz</span>; in France, MM. <span class="smcap">Taine</span> and +<span class="smcap">Renan</span>; and in America, Mr. <span class="smcap">Emerson</span>. The Portraits are to be Reproductions +from fine and rare Steel Engravings."—<i>Academy.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Hygiene and Public Health (A Treatise on).</i> Edited by <span class="smcap">A. H. +Buck</span>, M.D. Illustrated by numerous Wood Engravings. In 2 +royal 8vo vols., cloth, one guinea each.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Hymnal Companion to Book of Common Prayer.</i> <i>See</i> +<span class="smcap">Bickersteth</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging p2"><i>Illustrated Text-Books of Art-Education.</i> Edited by +<span class="smcap">Edward J. Poynter</span>, R.A. Each Volume contains numerous Illustrations, +and is strongly bound for the use of Students, price 5<i>s.</i> The +Volumes now ready are:—</p> + +<p class="center">PAINTING.</p> + +<ul class="author_list"> +<li><b>Classic and Italian.</b> By <span class="smcap">Percy R. Head</span>. With 50 Illustrations, 5<i>s.</i></li> +<li><b>German, Flemish, and Dutch.</b></li> +<li><b>French and Spanish.</b></li> +<li><b>English and American.</b></li> +</ul> + +<p class="center">ARCHITECTURE. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C15" id="Page_C15">15</a></span></p> + +<ul class="author_list"> +<li><b>Classic and Early Christian.</b></li> +<li><b>Gothic and Renaissance.</b> By <span class="smcap">T. Roger Smith</span>. With 50 Illustrations, 5<i>s.</i></li> +</ul> + +<p class="center">SCULPTURE.</p> + +<ul class="author_list"> +<li><b>Antique: Egyptian and Greek.</b></li> +<li><b>Renaissance and Modern.</b></li> +</ul> + +<p class="center">ORNAMENT.</p> + +<ul class="author_list"> +<li><b>Decoration in Colour.</b></li> +<li><b>Architectural Ornament.</b></li> +</ul> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Illustrations of China and its People.</i> By <span class="smcap">J. Thompson</span>, +F.R.G.S. Four Volumes, imperial 4to, each 3<i>l.</i> 3<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>In my Indian Garden.</i> By <span class="smcap">Phil Robinson</span>, Author of "Under +the Punkah." With a Preface by <span class="smcap">Edwin Arnold</span>, M.A., C.S.I., &c. +Crown 8vo, limp cloth, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Involuntary Voyage (An).</i> Showing how a Frenchman who +abhorred the Sea was most unwillingly and by a series of accidents +driven round the World. Numerous Illustrations. Square crown +8vo, cloth extra, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; plainer binding, plain edges, 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Irish Bar.</i> Comprising Anecdotes, Bon-Mots, and Biographical +Sketches of the Bench and Bar of Ireland. By <span class="smcap">J. Roderick +O'Flanagan</span>, Barrister-at-Law. Crown 8vo, 12<i>s.</i> Second Edition.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Irish Land Question, and English Public Opinion (The).</i> With +a Supplement on Griffith's Valuation. By <span class="smcap">R. Barry O'Brien</span>, +Author of "The Parliamentary History of the Irish Land Question." +Fcap. 8vo, cloth, 2<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Irving (Washington).</i> Complete Library Edition of his Works +in 27 Vols., Copyright, Unabridged, and with the Author's Latest +Revisions, called the "Geoffrey Crayon" Edition, handsomely printed +in large square 8vo, on superfine laid paper, and each volume, of +about 500 pages, will be fully Illustrated. 12<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> per vol. <i>See also</i> +"Little Britain."</p> + +<p class="hanging p2"><i>Jack and Jill.</i> By Miss <span class="smcap">Alcott</span>. Small post 8vo, cloth, +gilt edges, 5<i>s.</i> With numerous Illustrations.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>John Holdsworth, Chief Mate.</i> By <span class="smcap">W. Clarke Russell</span>, +Author of "Wreck of the Grosvenor." Crown 8vo, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging p2"><i>Kingston (W. H. G.).</i> <i>See</i> "Snow-Shoes," "Child of +the Cavern," "Two Supercargoes," "With Axe and Rifle," +"Begum's Fortune," "Heir of Kilfinnan," "Dick Cheveley." Each +vol., with very numerous Illustrations, square crown 16mo, gilt edges, +7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; plainer binding, plain edges, 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging p2"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C16" id="Page_C16">16</a></span> +<i>Lady Silverdale's Sweetheart.</i> 6<i>s.</i> <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Black</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Lenten Meditations.</i> In Two Series, each complete in itself. +By the Rev. <span class="smcap">Claude Bosanquet</span>, Author of "Blossoms from the +King's Garden." 16mo, cloth, First Series, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; Second Series, 2<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Library of Religious Poetry.</i> A Collection of the Best Poems +of all Ages and Tongues. With Biographical and Literary Notes. +Edited by <span class="smcap">Philip Schaff</span>, D.D., LL.D., and <span class="smcap">Arthur Gilman</span>, +M.A. Royal 8vo, pp. 1036, cloth extra, gilt edges, 21<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Life and Letters of the Honourable Charles Sumner (The).</i> +2 vols., royal 8vo, cloth. Second Edition, 36<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Lindsay (W. S.) History of Merchant Shipping and Ancient +Commerce.</i> Over 150 Illustrations, Maps, and Charts. In 4 vols., +demy 8vo, cloth extra. Vols. 1 and 2, 21<i>s.</i>; vols. 3 and 4, 24<i>s.</i> each.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Little Britain</i>; together with <i>The Spectre Bridegroom</i>, and <i>A +Legend of Sleepy Hollow</i>. By <span class="smcap">Washington Irving</span>. An entirely +New <i>Edition de luxe</i>, specially suitable for Presentation. Illustrated +by 120 very fine Engravings on Wood, by Mr. <span class="smcap">J. D. Cooper</span>. +Designed by Mr. <span class="smcap">Charles O. Murray</span>. Square crown 8vo, cloth +extra, gilt edges, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Little King; or, the Taming of a Young Russian Count.</i> By +<span class="smcap">S. Blandy</span>. 64 Illustrations. Crown 8vo, gilt edges, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; plainer +binding, 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Little Mercy; or, For Better for Worse.</i> By <span class="smcap">Maude Jeanne +Franc</span>, Author of "Marian," "Vermont Vale," &c., &c. Small +post 8vo, cloth extra, 4<i>s.</i> Second Edition.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Lost Sir Massingberd.</i> New Edition, crown 8vo, boards, coloured +wrapper, 2<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Low's German Series</i>—</p> + +<p class="country"><b>1. The Illustrated German Primer.</b> Being the easiest introduction +to the study of German for all beginners. 1<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="country"><b>2. The Children's own German Book.</b> A Selection of Amusing +and Instructive Stories in Prose. Edited by Dr. <span class="smcap">A. L. Meissner</span>. +Small post 8vo, cloth, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="country"><b>3. The First German Reader, for Children from Ten to +Fourteen.</b> Edited by Dr. <span class="smcap">A. L. Meissner</span>. Small post 8vo, +cloth, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="country"><b>4. The Second German Reader.</b> Edited by Dr. <span class="smcap">A. L. Meissner</span>. +Small post 8vo, cloth, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="center s08"><i>Buchheim's Deutsche Prosa. Two Volumes, sold separately</i>:—</p> + +<p class="country"><b>5. Schiller's Prosa.</b> Containing Selections from the Prose Works +of Schiller, with Notes for English Students. By Dr. <span class="smcap">Buchheim</span>. +Small post 8vo, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="country"><b>6. Goethe's Prosa.</b> Selections from the Prose Works of Goethe, +with Notes for English Students. By Dr. <span class="smcap">Buchheim</span>. Small +post 8vo, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C17" id="Page_C17">17</a></span> +<i>Low's International Series of Toy Books.</i> 6<i>d.</i> each; or +Mounted on Linen, 1<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="country"> +<b>1. Little Fred and his Fiddle</b>, from Asbjörnsen's "Norwegian +Fairy Tales."</p> + +<p class="country"><b>2. The Lad and the North Wind</b>, ditto.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>3. The Pancake</b>, ditto.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>4. The Little Match Girl</b>, from H. C. Andersen's "Danish +Fairy Tales."</p> + +<p class="country"><b>5. The Emperor's New Clothes</b>, ditto.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>6. The Gallant Tin Soldier</b>, ditto.</p> + +<p class="review">The above in 1 vol., cloth extra, gilt edges, with the whole 36 +Coloured Illustrations, 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Low's Standard Library of Travel and Adventure.</i> Crown 8vo, +bound uniformly in cloth extra, price 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="country"><b>1. The Great Lone Land.</b> By Major <span class="smcap">W. F. Butler</span>, C.B.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>2. The Wild North Land.</b> By Major <span class="smcap">W. F. Butler</span>, C.B.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>3. How I found Livingstone.</b> By <span class="smcap">H. M. Stanley</span>.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>4. The Threshold of the Unknown Region.</b> By <span class="smcap">C. R. Markham</span>. +(4th Edition, with Additional Chapters, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>)</p> + +<p class="country"><b>5. A Whaling-Cruise to Baffin's Bay and the Gulf of Boothia.</b> +By <span class="smcap">A. H. Markham</span>.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>6. Campaigning on the Oxus.</b> By <span class="smcap">J. A. MacGahan</span>.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>7. Akim-foo: the History of a Failure.</b> By <span class="smcap">Major W. F. +Butler</span>, C.B.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>8. Ocean to Ocean.</b> By the Rev. <span class="smcap">George M. Grant</span>. With +Illustrations.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>9. Cruise of the Challenger.</b> By <span class="smcap">W. J. J. Spry</span>, R.N.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>10. Schweinfurth's Heart of Africa.</b> 2 vols., 15<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="country"><b>11. Through the Dark Continent.</b> By <span class="smcap">H. M. Stanley</span>, 1 vol., +12<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> +X/</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Low's Standard Novels.</i> Crown 8vo, 6<i>s.</i> each, cloth extra.</p> + +<p class="country"> +<b>My Lady Greensleeves.</b> By <span class="smcap">Helen Mathers</span>, Authoress of +"Comin' through the Rye," "Cherry Ripe," &c.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Three Feathers.</b> By <span class="smcap">William Black</span>.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>A Daughter of Heth.</b> 13th Edition. By <span class="smcap">W. Black</span>. With +Frontispiece by <span class="smcap">F. Walker</span>, A.R.A.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Kilmeny.</b> A Novel. By <span class="smcap">W. Black</span>.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>In Silk Attire.</b> By <span class="smcap">W. Black</span>.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Lady Silverdale's Sweetheart.</b> By <span class="smcap">W. Black</span>.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>History of a Crime</b>: The Story of the Coup d'Etat. By <span class="smcap">Victor +Hugo</span>.</p> + +<p class="country"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C18" id="Page_C18">18</a></span> +<b>Alice Lorraine.</b> By <span class="smcap">R. D. Blackmore</span>.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Lorna Doone.</b> By <span class="smcap">R. D. Blackmore</span>. 8th Edition.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Cradock Nowell.</b> By <span class="smcap">R. D. Blackmore</span>.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Clara Vaughan.</b> By <span class="smcap">R. D. Blackmore</span>.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Cripps the Carrier.</b> By <span class="smcap">R. D. Blackmore</span>.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Erema; or, My Father's Sin.</b> By <span class="smcap">R. D. Blackmore</span>.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Mary Anerley.</b> By <span class="smcap">R. D. Blackmore</span>.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Innocent.</b> By Mrs. <span class="smcap">Oliphant</span>. Eight Illustrations.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Work.</b> A Story of Experience. By <span class="smcap">Louisa M. Alcott</span>. Illustrations. +<i>See also</i> Rose Library.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>The Afghan Knife.</b> By <span class="smcap">R. A. Sterndale</span>, Author of "Seonee."</p> + +<p class="country"><b>A French Heiress in her own Chateau.</b> By the Author of +"One Only," "Constantia," &c. Six Illustrations.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Ninety-Three.</b> By <span class="smcap">Victor Hugo</span>. Numerous Illustrations.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>My Wife and I.</b> By Mrs. <span class="smcap">Beecher Stowe</span>.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Wreck of the Grosvenor.</b> By <span class="smcap">W. Clark Russell</span>.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>John Holdsworth</b> (Chief Mate). By <span class="smcap">W. Clark Russell</span>.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Elinor Dryden.</b> By Mrs. <span class="smcap">Macquoid</span>.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Diane.</b> By Mrs. <span class="smcap">Macquoid</span>.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Poganuc People, Their Loves and Lives.</b> By Mrs. <span class="smcap">Beecher +Stowe</span>.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>A Golden Sorrow.</b> By Mrs. <span class="smcap">Cashel Hoey</span>.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>A Story of the Dragonnades; or, Asylum Christi.</b> By the Rev. +<span class="smcap">E. Gilliat</span>, M.A.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Low's Handbook to the Charities of London.</i> Edited and +revised to date by <span class="smcap">C. Mackeson</span>, F.S.S., Editor of "A Guide to the +Churches of London and its Suburbs," &c. Paper, 1<i>s.</i>; cloth, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging p2"><i>MacGahan (J. A.) Campaigning on the Oxus, and the +Fall of Khiva.</i> With Map and numerous Illustrations, 4th Edition, +small post 8vo, cloth extra, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Macgregor (John) "Rob Roy" on the Baltic.</i> 3rd Edition, +small post 8vo, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; cloth, gilt edges, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>A Thousand Miles in the "Rob Roy" Canoe.</i> 11th +Edition, small post 8vo, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; cloth, gilt edges, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Description of the "Rob Roy" Canoe</i>, with Plans, +&c., 1<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>The Voyage Alone in the Yawl "Rob Roy."</i> New +Edition; thoroughly revised, with additions, small post 8vo, 5<i>s.</i>; +boards, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C19" id="Page_C19">19</a></span> +<i>Mackenzie (D.) The Flooding of the Sahara.</i> By <span class="smcap">Donald +Mackenzie</span>. 8vo, cloth extra, with Illustrations, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Macquoid (Mrs.) Elinor Dryden.</i> Crown 8vo, cloth, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Diane.</i> Crown 8vo, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Magazine.</i> <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Harper</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Markham (C. R.) The Threshold of the unknown Region.</i> +Crown 8vo, with Four Maps, 4th Edition. Cloth extra, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Maury (Commander) Physical Geography of the Sea, and its +Meteorology.</i> Being a Reconstruction and Enlargement of his former +Work, with Charts and Diagrams. New Edition, crown 8vo, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Memoirs of Count Miot de Melito.</i> 2 vols., demy 8vo, 36<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Memoirs of Madame de Rémusat, 1802-1808.</i> By her Grandson, +<span class="smcap">M. Paul de Rémusat</span>, Senator. Translated by Mrs. <span class="smcap">Cashel +Hoey</span> and Mr. <span class="smcap">John Lillie</span>. 4th Edition, cloth extra. This +work was written by Madame de Rémusat during the time she +was living on the most intimate terms with the Empress Josephine, +and is full of revelations respecting the private life of Bonaparte, and +of men and politics of the first years of the century. Revelations +which have already created a great sensation in Paris. 8vo, 2 vols., 32<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Menus (366, one for each day of the year).</i> Translated from the +French of <span class="smcap">Count Brisse</span>, by Mrs. <span class="smcap">Matthew Clarke</span>. Crown +8vo, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Men of Mark: a Gallery of Contemporary Portraits of the most +Eminent Men of the Day taken from Life</i>, especially for this publication, +price 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> monthly. Vols. I., II., III., IV., and V., handsomely +bound, cloth, gilt edges, 25<i>s.</i> each.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Mendelssohn Family (The).</i> Translated from the German of +<span class="smcap">E. Bock</span>. Demy 8vo, 16<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Michael Strogoff.</i> 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> and 5<i>s.</i> <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Verne</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Mitford (Miss).</i> <i>See</i> "Our Village."</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Military Maxims.</i> By <span class="smcap">Captain B. Terling</span>. Medium 16mo, +in roan case, with pencil for the pocket, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Mountain and Prairie: a Journey from Victoria to Winnipeg, +viâ Peace River Pass.</i> By the Rev. <span class="smcap">Daniel M. Gordon</span>, B.D., +Ottawa. Small post 8vo, with Maps and Illustrations, cloth extra, +8<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Music.</i> <i>See</i> "Great Musicians."</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>My Lady Greensleeves.</i> By <span class="smcap">Helen Mathers</span>, Authoress of +"Comin' through the Rye," "Cherry Ripe," &c. 1 vol. edition, +crown 8vo, cloth, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C20" id="Page_C20">20</a></span> +<i>Mysterious Island.</i> By <span class="smcap">Jules Verne</span>. 3 vols., imperial 16mo. +150 Illustrations, cloth gilt, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> each; elaborately bound, gilt +edges, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> each. Cheap Edition, with some of the Illustrations, +cloth, gilt, 2<i>s.</i>; paper, 1<i>s.</i> each.</p> + +<p class="hanging p2"><i>National Music of the World.</i> By the late <span class="smcap">Henry F. +Chorley</span>. Edited by <span class="smcap">H. G. Hewlett</span>. Crown 8vo, cloth, 8<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Naval Brigade in South Africa (The).</i> By <span class="smcap">Henry F. Norbury</span>, +C.B., R.N. Crown 8vo, cloth extra, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>New Child's Play (A).</i> Sixteen Drawings by E. V. B. Beautifully +printed in colours, 4to, cloth extra, 12<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>New Guinea (A Few Months in).</i> By <span class="smcap">Octavius C. Stone</span>, +F.R.G.S. With numerous Illustrations from the Author's own +Drawings. Crown 8vo, cloth, 12<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>What I did and what I saw.</i> By <span class="smcap">L. M. D'Albertis</span>, +Officer of the Order of the Crown of Italy, Honorary Member and +Gold Medallist of the I.R.G.S., C.M.Z.S., &c., &c. In 2 vols., +demy 8vo, cloth extra, with Maps, Coloured Plates, and numerous +very fine Woodcut Illustrations, 42<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>New Ireland.</i> By <span class="smcap">A. M. Sullivan</span>, M.P. for Louth. 2 vols., +demy 8vo, 30<i>s.</i> Cheaper Edition, 1 vol., crown 8vo, 8<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>New Novels.</i> Crown 8vo, cloth, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> per vol.:—</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Mary Marston.</b> By <span class="smcap">George MacDonald</span>. 3 vols. Third Edition.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Sarah de Beranger.</b> By <span class="smcap">Jean Ingelow</span>. 3 vols.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Don John.</b> By <span class="smcap">Jean Ingelow</span>. 3 vols.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Sunrise</b>: A Story of these Times. By <span class="smcap">William Black</span>. 3 vols.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>A Sailor's Sweetheart.</b> By <span class="smcap">W. Clark Russell</span>, Author of "The +Wreck of the Grosvenor," "John Holdsworth," &c. 3 vols.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Lisa Lena.</b> By <span class="smcap">Edward Jenkins</span>, Author of "Ginx's Baby." +2 vols.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>A Plot of the Present Day.</b> By <span class="smcap">Kate Hope</span>. 3 vols.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Black Abbey.</b> By <span class="smcap">M. Crommelin</span>, Author of "Queenie," &c. +3 vols.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Flower o' the Broom.</b> By the Author of "Rare Pale Margaret," +3 vols.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>The Grandidiers</b>: A Tale of Berlin. Translated from the German +by Captain <span class="smcap">Wm. Savile</span>. 3 vols.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Errant</b>: A Life Story of Latter-Day Chivalry. By <span class="smcap">Percy Greg</span>, +Author of "Across the Zodiac," &c. 3 vols.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Fancy Free.</b> By <span class="smcap">C. Gibbon</span>. 3 vols.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>The Stillwater Tragedy.</b> By <span class="smcap">J. B. Aldrich</span>.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Prince Fortune and Prince Fatal.</b> By Mrs. <span class="smcap">Carrington</span>, +Author of "My Cousin Maurice," &c. 3 vols.</p> + +<p class="country"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C21" id="Page_C21">21</a></span> +<b>An English Squire.</b> By <span class="smcap">C. B. Coleridge</span>, Author of "Lady +Betty," "Hanbury Wills," &c. 3 vols.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Christowell.</b> By <span class="smcap">R. D. Blackmore</span>. 3 vols.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Mr. Caroli.</b> By Miss <span class="smcap">Seguin</span>. 3 vols.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>David Broome, Artist.</b> By Miss <span class="smcap">O'Reilly</span>. 3 vols.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Braes of Yarrow.</b> By <span class="smcap">Chas. Gibbon</span>. 3 vols.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Nice and Her Neighbours.</i> By the Rev. <span class="smcap">Canon Hole</span>, Author +of "A Book about Roses," "A Little Tour in Ireland," &c. Small +4to, with numerous choice Illustrations, 12<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Noble Words and Noble Deeds.</i> From the French of <span class="smcap">E. Muller</span>. +Containing many Full-page Illustrations by <span class="smcap">Philippoteaux</span>. Square +imperial 16mo, cloth extra, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; plainer binding, plain edges, 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>North American Review (The).</i> Monthly, price 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Nothing to Wear; and Two Millions.</i> By <span class="smcap">W. A. Butler</span>. +New Edition. Small post 8vo, in stiff coloured wrapper, 1<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Nursery Playmates (Prince of).</i> 217 Coloured pictures for +Children by eminent Artists. Folio, in coloured boards, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging p2"><i>Oberammergau Passion Play.</i> <i>See</i> "Art in the +Mountains."</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>O'Brien.</i> <i>See</i> "Parliamentary History" and "Irish Land +Question."</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Old-Fashioned Girl.</i> <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Alcott</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>On Horseback through Asia Minor.</i> By Capt. <span class="smcap">Fred Burnaby</span>, +Royal Horse Guards, Author of "A Ride to Khiva." 2 vols., +8vo, with three Maps and Portrait of Author, 6th Edition, 38<i>s.</i>; +Cheaper Edition, crown 8vo, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Our Little Ones in Heaven.</i> Edited by the Rev. <span class="smcap">H. Robbins</span>. +With Frontispiece after Sir <span class="smcap">Joshua Reynolds</span>. Fcap., cloth extra, +New Edition—the 3rd, with Illustrations, 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Our Village.</i> By <span class="smcap">Mary Russell Mitford</span>. Illustrated with +Frontispiece Steel Engraving, and 12 full-page and 157 smaller Cuts +of Figure Subjects and Scenes. Crown 4to, cloth, gilt edges, 21<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Our Woodland Trees.</i> By <span class="smcap">F. G. Heath</span>. Large post 8vo, +cloth, gilt edges, uniform with "Fern World" and "Fern Paradise," +by the same Author. 8 Coloured Plates (showing leaves of every +British Tree) and 20 Woodcuts, cloth, gilt edges, 12<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> Third +Edition.</p> + +<p class="hanging p2"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C22" id="Page_C22">22</a></span> +<i>Painters of All Schools.</i> By <span class="smcap">Louis Viardot</span>, and other +Writers. 500 pp., super-royal 8vo, 20 Full-page and 70 smaller +Engravings, cloth extra, 25<i>s.</i> A New Edition is issued in Half-crown +parts, with fifty additional portraits, cloth, gilt edges, 31<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Painting (A Short History of the British School of).</i> By +<span class="smcap">Geo. H. Shepherd</span>. Post 8vo, cloth, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Palliser (Mrs.) A History of Lace, from the Earliest Period.</i> +A New and Revised Edition, with additional cuts and text, upwards +of 100 Illustrations and coloured Designs. 1 vol., 8vo, 1<i>l.</i> 1<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Historic Devices, Badges, and War Cries.</i> 8vo, 1<i>l.</i> 1<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>The China Collector's Pocket Companion.</i> With upwards +of 1000 Illustrations of Marks and Monograms. 2nd Edition, +with Additions. Small post 8vo, limp cloth, 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Parliamentary History of the Irish Land Question (The).</i> From +1829 to 1869, and the Origin and Results of the Ulster Custom. By +<span class="smcap">R. Barry O'Brien</span>, Barrister-at-Law, Author of "The Irish Land +Question and English Public Opinion." 3rd Edition, corrected and +revised, with additional matter. Post 8vo, cloth extra, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="review">The Right Hon. W. E. GLADSTONE, M.P., in a Letter to the Author, says:— +"I thank you for kindly sending me your work, and I hope that the sad and discreditable +story which you have told so well in your narrative of the Irish Land +Question may be useful at a period when we have more than ever of reason to desire +that it should be thoroughly understood."</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Pathways of Palestine: a Descriptive Tour through the Holy +Land.</i> By the Rev. <span class="smcap">Canon Tristram</span>. Illustrated with 44 permanent +Photographs. (The Photographs are large, and most perfect +Specimens of the Art.) Published in 22 Monthly Parts, 4to, in +Wrapper, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> each.</p> + +<p class="review">"... The Photographs which illustrate these pages may justly claim, as works +of art, to be the most admirably executed views which have been produced....</p> + +<p class="review">"As the writer is on the point of making a fourth visit of exploration to the +country, any new discoveries which come under observation will be at once incorporated +in this work."</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Peasant Life in the West of England.</i> By <span class="smcap">Francis George +Heath</span>, Author of "Sylvan Spring," "The Fern World." Crown +8vo, about 350 pp., 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Petites Leçons de Conversation et de Grammaire: Oral and +Conversational Method; being Lessons introducing the most Useful +Topics of Conversation, upon an entirely new principle, &c.</i> By +<span class="smcap">F. Julien</span>, French Master at King Edward the Sixth's School, +Birmingham. Author of "The Student's French Examiner," "First +Steps in Conversational French Grammar," which see.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Phillips (L.) Dictionary of Biographical Reference.</i> 8vo, +1<i>l.</i> 11<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Photography (History and Handbook of).</i> <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Tissandier</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C23" id="Page_C23">23</a></span> +<i>Physical Treatise on Electricity and Magnetism.</i> By <span class="smcap">J. E. H. +Gordon, B.A.</span> With about 200 coloured, full-page, and other +Illustrations. Among the newer portions of the work may be +enumerated: All the more recent investigations on Striæ by Spottiswoode, +De la Rue, Moulton, &c., an account of Mr. Crooke's recent +researches; full descriptions and pictures of all the modern Magnetic +Survey Instruments now used at Kew Observatory; full accounts of +all the modern work on Specific Inductive Capacity, and of the more +recent determination of the ratio of Electric units (v). In respect to +the number and beauty of the Illustrations, the work is quite unique. +2 vols., 8vo, 36<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Pinto (Major Serpa).</i> <i>See</i> "How I Crossed Africa."</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Plutarch's Lives.</i> An Entirely New and Library Edition. +Edited by <span class="smcap">A. H. Clough</span>, Esq. 5 vols., 8vo, 2<i>l.</i> 10<i>s.</i>; half-morocco, +gilt top, 3<i>l.</i> Also in 1 vol., royal 8vo, 800 pp., cloth extra, 18<i>s.</i>; +half-bound, 21<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Poems of the Inner Life.</i> A New Edition, Revised, with many +additional Poems. Small post 8vo, cloth, 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Poganuc People: their Loves and Lives.</i> By Mrs. <span class="smcap">Beecher +Stowe</span>. Crown 8vo, cloth, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Polar Expeditions.</i> <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Koldewey</span>, <span class="smcap">Markham</span>, <span class="smcap">MacGahan</span>, +and <span class="smcap">Nares</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Poynter (Edward J., R.A.).</i> <i>See</i> "Illustrated Text-books."</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Practical (A) Handbook to the Principal Schools of England.</i> +By <span class="smcap">C. E. Pascoe</span>. New Edition, crown 8vo, cloth extra, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Prejevalsky (N. M.) From Kulja, across the Tian Shan to Lobnor.</i> +Translated by <span class="smcap">E. Delmar Morgan, F.R.G.S.</span> Demy 8vo, +with a Map. 16<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Primitive Folk Moots; or, Open-Air Assemblies in Britain.</i> +By <span class="smcap">George Laurence Gomme, F.S.A.</span>, Honorary Secretary to the +Folk-Lore Society, Author of "Index of Municipal Offices." 1 vol., +crown 8vo, cloth, 12<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="review">This work deals with an earlier phase of the history of English +Institutions than has yet been attempted.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Publisher's Circular (The), and General Record of British and +Foreign Literature.</i> Published on the 1st and 15th of every Month, 3<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Pyrenees (The).</i> By <span class="smcap">Henry Blackburn</span>. With 100 Illustrations +by <span class="smcap">Gustave Doré</span>, a New Map of Routes, and Information for +Travellers, corrected to 1881. With a description of Lourdes in 1880. +Crown 8vo, cloth extra, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging p2"><i>Rambaud +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C24" id="Page_C24">24</a></span> +(Alfred). History of Russia, from its Origin +to the Year 1877.</i> With Six Maps. Translated by Mrs. <span class="smcap">L. B. +Lan</span>. 2 vols., demy 8vo, cloth extra, 38<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Recollections of Writers.</i> By <span class="smcap">Charles</span> and <span class="smcap">Mary Cowden +Clarke</span>. Authors of "The Concordance to Shakespeare," &c.; +with Letters of <span class="smcap">Charles Lamb</span>, <span class="smcap">Leigh Hunt</span>, <span class="smcap">Douglas Jerrold</span>, +and <span class="smcap">Charles Dickens</span>; and a Preface by <span class="smcap">Mary Cowden Clarke</span>. +Crown 8vo, cloth, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Rémusat (Madame de).</i> <i>See</i> "Memoirs of."</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Robinson (Phil).</i> <i>See</i> "In my Indian Garden," "Under the +Punkah."</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Rochefoucauld's Reflections.</i> Bayard Series, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Rogers (S.) Pleasures of Memory.</i> <i>See</i> "Choice Editions of +Choice Books." 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Rose in Bloom.</i> <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Alcott</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>The Rose Library.</i> Popular Literature of all countries. Each +volume, 1<i>s.</i>; cloth, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> Many of the Volumes are Illustrated—</p> + +<p class="country">1. <b>Sea-Gull Rock.</b> By <span class="smcap">Jules Sandeau</span>. Illustrated.</p> + +<p class="country">2. <b>Little Women.</b> By <span class="smcap">Louisa M. Alcott</span>.</p> + +<p class="country">3. <b>Little Women Wedded.</b> Forming a Sequel to "Little Women."</p> + +<p class="country">4. <b>The House on Wheels.</b> By <span class="smcap">Madame de Stolz</span>. Illustrated.</p> + +<p class="country">5. <b>Little Men.</b> By <span class="smcap">Louisa M. Alcott</span>. Dble. vol., 2<i>s.</i>; cloth, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="country">6. <b>The Old-Fashioned Girl.</b> By <span class="smcap">Louisa M. Alcott</span>. Double +vol., 2<i>s.</i>; cloth, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="country">7. <b>The Mistress of the Manse.</b> By <span class="smcap">J. G. Holland</span>.</p> + +<p class="country">8. <b>Timothy Titcomb's Letters to Young People, Single and +Married.</b></p> + +<p class="country">9. <b>Undine, and the Two Captains.</b> By Baron <span class="smcap">De La Motte +Fouqué</span>. A New Translation by <span class="smcap">F. E. Bunnett</span>. Illustrated.</p> + +<p class="country">10. <b>Draxy Miller's Dowry, and the Elder's Wife.</b> By <span class="smcap">Saxe +Holm</span>.</p> + +<p class="country">11. <b>The Four Gold Pieces.</b> By Madame <span class="smcap">Gouraud</span>. Numerous +Illustrations.</p> + +<p class="country">12. <b>Work.</b> A Story of Experience. First Portion. By <span class="smcap">Louisa M. +Alcott</span>.</p> + +<p class="country">13. <b>Beginning Again.</b> Being a Continuation of "Work." By +<span class="smcap">Louisa M. Alcott</span>.</p> + +<p class="country">14. <b>Picciola; or, the Prison Flower.</b> By <span class="smcap">X. B. Saintine</span>. +Numerous Graphic Illustrations.</p> + +<p class="country"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C25" id="Page_C25">25</a></span> +15. <b>Robert's Holidays.</b> Illustrated.</p> + +<p class="country">16. <b>The Two Children of St. Domingo.</b> Numerous Illustrations.</p> + +<p class="country">17. <b>Aunt Jo's Scrap Bag.</b></p> + +<p class="country">18. <b>Stowe (Mrs. H. B.) The Pearl of Orr's Island.</b></p> + +<p class="country">19. —— <b>The Minister's Wooing.</b></p> + +<p class="country">20. —— <b>Betty's Bright Idea.</b></p> + +<p class="country">21. —— <b>The Ghost in the Mill.</b></p> + +<p class="country">22. —— <b>Captain Kidd's Money.</b></p> + +<p class="country">23. —— <b>We and our Neighbours.</b> Double vol., 2<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="country">24. —— <b>My Wife and I.</b> Double vol., 2<i>s.</i>; cloth, gilt, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="country">25. <b>Hans Brinker; or, the Silver Skates.</b></p> + +<p class="country">26. <b>Lowell's My Study Window.</b></p> + +<p class="country">27. <b>Holmes (O. W.) The Guardian Angel.</b></p> + +<p class="country">28. <b>Warner (C. D.) My Summer in a Garden.</b></p> + +<p class="country">29. <b>Hitherto.</b> By the Author of "The Gayworthys." 2 vols., 1<i>s.</i> each.</p> + +<p class="country">30. <b>Helen's Babies.</b> By their Latest Victim.</p> + +<p class="country">31. <b>The Barton Experiment.</b> By the Author of "Helen's Babies."</p> + +<p class="country">32. <b>Dred.</b> By Mrs. <span class="smcap">Beecher Stowe</span>. Double vol., 2<i>s.</i>; cloth, +gilt, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="country">33. <b>Warner (C. D.)</b> <b>In the Wilderness.</b></p> + +<p class="country">34. <b>Six to One.</b> A Seaside Story.</p> + +<p class="country">35. <b>Nothing to Wear, and Two Millions.</b></p> + +<p class="country">36. <b>Farm Ballads.</b> By <span class="smcap">Will Carleton</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Russell (W. Clarke).</i> <i>See</i> "A Sailor's Sweetheart," 3 vols., +31<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; "Wreck of the Grosvenor," 6<i>s.</i>; "John Holdsworth (Chief +Mate)," 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Russell (W. H., LL.D.) The Tour of the Prince of Wales in +India.</i> By <span class="smcap">W. H. Russell, LL.D.</span> Fully Illustrated by <span class="smcap">Sydney +P. Hall, M.A.</span> Super-royal 8vo, cloth extra, gilt edges, 52<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; +Large Paper Edition, 84<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging p2"><i>Sancta Christina: a Story of the First Century.</i> By +<span class="smcap">Eleanor E. Orlebar</span>. With a Preface by the Bishop of Winchester. +Small post 8vo, cloth extra, 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Seonee: Sporting in the Satpura Range of Central India, and in +the Valley of the Nerbudda.</i> By <span class="smcap">R. A. Sterndale, F.R.G.S.</span> 8vo, +with numerous Illustrations, 21<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Seven Years in South Africa: Travels, Researches, and Hunting +Adventures between the Diamond-Fields and the Zambesi (1872-1879).</i> +By Dr. <span class="smcap">Emil Holub</span>. With over 100 Original Illustrations +and 4 Maps. In 2 vols., demy 8vo, cloth extra, 42<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Serpent +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C26" id="Page_C26">26</a></span> +Charmer (The): a Tale of the Indian Mutiny.</i> By +<span class="smcap">Louis Rousselet</span>, Author of "India and its Native Princes." +Numerous Illustrations. Crown 8vo, cloth extra, gilt edges, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; +plainer binding, 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Shakespeare (The Boudoir).</i> Edited by <span class="smcap">Henry Cundell</span>. +Carefully bracketted for reading aloud; freed from all objectionable +matter, and altogether free from notes. Price 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> each volume, +cloth extra, gilt edges. Contents:—Vol. I., Cymbeline—Merchant of +Venice. Each play separately, paper cover, 1<i>s.</i> Vol. II., As You +Like It—King Lear—Much Ado about Nothing. Vol. III., Romeo +and Juliet—Twelfth Night—King John. The latter six plays separately, +paper cover, 9<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Shakespeare Key (The).</i> Forming a Companion to "The +Complete Concordance to Shakespeare." By <span class="smcap">Charles</span> and <span class="smcap">Mary +Cowden Clarke</span>. Demy 8vo, 800 pp., 21<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Shooting: its Appliances, Practice, and Purpose.</i> By <span class="smcap">James +Dalziel Dougall, F.S.A., F.Z.A.</span>, Author of "Scottish Field +Sports," &c. Crown 8vo, cloth extra, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="review">"The book is admirable in every way.... We wish it every success."—<i>Globe.</i></p> + +<p class="review">"A very complete treatise.... Likely to take high rank as an authority on +shooting."—<i>Daily News.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Silent Hour (The).</i> <i>See</i> "Gentle Life Series."</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Silver Pitchers.</i> <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Alcott</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Simon (Jules).</i> <i>See</i> "Government of M. Thiers."</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Six to One.</i> A Seaside Story. 16mo, boards, 1<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Smith (G.) Assyrian Explorations and Discoveries</i>. By the late +<span class="smcap">George Smith</span>. Illustrated by Photographs and Woodcuts. Demy +8vo, 6th Edition, 18<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>The Chaldean Account of Genesis.</i> By the late +<span class="smcap">G. Smith</span>, of the Department of Oriental Antiquities, British Museum. +With many Illustrations. Demy 8vo, cloth extra, 6th Edition, 16<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— An entirely New Edition, completely revised and rewritten +by the Rev. <span class="smcap">Professor Sayce</span>, Queen's College, Oxford. +Demy 8vo, 18<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Snow-Shoes and Canoes; or, the Adventures of a Fur-Hunter +in the Hudson's Bay Territory.</i> By <span class="smcap">W. H. G. Kingston</span>. 2nd +Edition. With numerous Illustrations. Square crown 8vo, cloth +extra, gilt edges, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; plainer binding, 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C27" id="Page_C27">27</a></span> +<i>Songs and Etchings in Shade and Sunshine.</i> By J. E. G. +Illustrated with 44 Etchings. Small 4to, cloth, gilt tops, 25<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>South African Campaign, 1879 (The).</i> Compiled by <span class="smcap">J. P. +Mackinnon</span> (formerly 72nd Highlanders), and <span class="smcap">S. H. Shadbolt</span>; +and dedicated, by permission, to Field-Marshal H.R.H. The Duke +of Cambridge. 4to, handsomely bound in cloth extra, 2<i>l.</i> 10<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>South Kensington Museum.</i> Published, with the sanction of +the Science and Art Department, in Monthly Parts, each containing +8 Plates, price 1<i>s.</i> Volume I., containing 12 numbers, handsomely +bound, 16<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Stanley (H. M.) How I Found Livingstone.</i> Crown 8vo, cloth +extra, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> ; large Paper Edition, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>"My Kalulu," Prince, King, and Slave.</i> A Story +from Central Africa. Crown 8vo, about 430 pp., with numerous graphic +Illustrations, after Original Designs by the Author. Cloth, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Coomassie and Magdala.</i> A Story of Two British +Campaigns in Africa. Demy 8vo, with Maps and Illustrations, 16<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Through the Dark Continent</i>, which see.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Story of a Mountain (The).</i> By <span class="smcap">E. Reclus</span>. Translated by +<span class="smcap">Bertha Ness</span>. 8vo, with Illustrations, cloth extra, gilt edges, +7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Story of a Soldiers Life (The); or, Peace, War, and Mutiny.</i> +By Lieut.-General <span class="smcap">John Alexander Ewart, C.B.</span>, Aide-de-Camp +to the Queen from 1859 to 1872. 2 vols., demy 8vo, with Illustrations.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Story of the Zulu Campaign (The).</i> By Major <span class="smcap">Ashe</span> (late +King's Dragoon Guards), and Captain the Hon. <span class="smcap">E. V. Wyatt-Edgell</span> +(late 17th Lancers, killed at Ulundi). Dedicated by special +permission to Her Imperial Highness the Empress Eugénie. 8vo, 16<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Story without an End.</i> From the German of Carové, by the late +Mrs. <span class="smcap">Sarah T. Austin</span>. Crown 4to, with 15 Exquisite Drawings +by E. V. B., printed in Colours in Fac-simile of the original Water +Colours; and numerous other Illustrations. New Edition, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— square 4to, with Illustrations by <span class="smcap">Harvey</span>. 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Stowe (Mrs. Beecher) Dred.</i> Cheap Edition, boards, 2<i>s.</i> Cloth, +gilt edges, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C28" id="Page_C28">28</a></span> +<i>Stowe (Mrs. Beecher) Footsteps of the Master.</i> With Illustrations +and red borders. Small post 8vo, cloth extra, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Geography</i>, with 60 Illustrations. Square cloth, 4<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Little Foxes.</i> Cheap Edition, 1<i>s.</i>; Library Edition, +4<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Betty's Bright Idea.</i> 1<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>My Wife and I; or, Harry Henderson's History.</i> +Small post 8vo, cloth extra, 6<i>s.</i><a name="FNanchor_C" id="FNanchor_C" href="#Footnote_C" class="fnanchor">[C]</a></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Minister's Wooing.</i> 5<i>s.</i>; Copyright Series, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; cl., 2<i>s.</i><a href="#Footnote_C" class="fnanchor">[C]</a></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Old Town Folk.</i> 6<i>s.</i>; Cheap Edition, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Old Town Fireside Stories.</i> Cloth extra, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Our Folks at Poganuc.</i> 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>We and our Neighbours.</i> 1 vol., small post 8vo, 6<i>s.</i> +Sequel to "My Wife and I."[See also Rose Library]</p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Pink and White Tyranny.</i> Small post 8vo, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> +Cheap Edition, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> and 2<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Queer Little People.</i> 1<i>s.</i>; cloth, 2<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Chimney Corner.</i> 1<i>s.</i>; cloth, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>The Pearl of Orr's Island.</i> Crown 8vo, 5<i>s.</i>[See also Rose Library]</p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Little Pussey Willow.</i> Fcap., 2<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Woman in Sacred History.</i> Illustrated with 15 +Chromo-lithographs and about 200 pages of Letterpress. Dem +4to, cloth extra, gilt edges, 25<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Student's French Examiner.</i> By <span class="smcap">F. Julien</span>, Author of "Petites +Leçons de Conversation et de Grammaire." Square crown 8vo, cloth, 2<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Studies in German Literature.</i> By <span class="smcap">Bayard Taylor</span>. Edited +by <span class="smcap">Marie Taylor</span>. With an Introduction by the Hon. <span class="smcap">George +H. Boker</span>. 8vo, cloth extra, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C29" id="Page_C29">29</a></span> +<i>Studies in the Theory of Descent.</i> By Dr. <span class="smcap">Aug. Weismann</span>, +Professor in the University of Freiburg. Translated and edited by +<span class="smcap">Raphael Meldola, F.C.S.</span>, Secretary of the Entomological Society +of London. Part I.—"On the Seasonal Dimorphism of Butterflies," +containing Original Communications by Mr. <span class="smcap">W. H. Edwards</span>, of +Coalburgh. With two Coloured Plates. Price of Part. I. (to Subscribers +for the whole work only), 8<i>s.</i>; Part II. (6 coloured plates), 16<i>s.</i>; +Part III., 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Sugar Beet (The).</i> Including a History of the Beet Sugar +Industry in Europe, Varieties of the Sugar Beet, Examination, Soils, +Tillage, Seeds and Sowing, Yield and Cost of Cultivation, Harvesting, +Transportation, Conservation, Feeding Qualities of the Beet and of +the Pulp, &c. By <span class="smcap">L. S. Ware</span>. Illustrated. 8vo, cloth extra, 21<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Sullivan (A. M., M.P.).</i> <i>See</i> "New Ireland."</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Sulphuric Acid (A Practical Treatise on the Manufacture of).</i> +By A. G. and <span class="smcap">C. G. Lock</span>, Consulting Chemical Engineers. With +77 Construction Plates, and other Illustrations. Royal 8vo, 2<i>l.</i> 12<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Sumner (Hon. Charles).</i> <i>See</i> Life and Letters.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Sunrise: A Story of These Times.</i> By <span class="smcap">William Black</span>, +Author of "A Daughter of Heth," &c. 3 vols., 31<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Surgeon's Handbook on the Treatment of Wounded in War.</i> By +Dr. <span class="smcap">Friedrich Esmarch</span>, Professor of Surgery in the University of +Kiel, and Surgeon-General to the Prussian Army. Translated by +<span class="smcap">H. H. Clutton, B.A.</span> Cantab., F.R.C.S. Numerous Coloured +Plates and Illustrations, 8vo, strongly bound in flexible leather, 1<i>l.</i> 8<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Sylvan Spring.</i> By <span class="smcap">Francis George Heath</span>. Illustrated by +12 Coloured Plates, drawn by <span class="smcap">F. E. Hulme, F.L.S.</span>, Artist and +Author of "Familiar Wild Flowers;" by 16 full-page, and more than +100 other Wood Engravings. Large post 8vo, cloth, gilt edges, 12<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging p2"><i>Tauchnitz's English Editions of German Authors.</i> +Each volume, cloth flexible, 2<i>s.</i>; or sewed, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> (Catalogues post +free on application.)</p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>(B.) German and English Dictionary.</i> Cloth, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; +roan, 2s,</p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>French and English.</i> Paper, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; cloth, 2<i>s.</i>; roan +2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C30" id="Page_C30">30</a></span> +<i>Tauchnitz (B.) Italian and English Dictionary.</i> Paper, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; +cloth, 2<i>s.</i>; roan, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Spanish and English.</i> Paper, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; cloth, 2<i>s.</i>; roan, +2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>New Testament.</i> Cloth, 2<i>s.</i>; gilt, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Taylor (Bayard).</i> <i>See</i> "Studies in German Literature."</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Through America; or, Nine Months in the United States.</i> By +<span class="smcap">W. G. Marshall, M.A.</span> With nearly 100 Woodcuts of Views of +Utah country and the famous Yosemite Valley; The Giant Trees, +New York, Niagara, San Francisco, &c.; containing a full account +of Mormon Life, as noted by the Author during his visits to Salt Lake +City in 1878 and 1879. In 1 vol., demy 8vo, 21<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Through the Dark Continent: The Sources of the Nile; Around +the Great Lakes, and down the Congo.</i> By <span class="smcap">Henry M. Stanley</span>. +2 vols., demy 8vo, containing 150 Full-page and other Illustrations, +2 Portraits of the Author, and 10 Maps, 42<i>s.</i> Seventh Thousand. +Cheaper Edition, crown 8vo, with some of the Illustrations and Maps. +1 vol., 12<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Tour of the Prince of Wales in India.</i> <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Russell</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Trees and Ferns</i>. By <span class="smcap">F. G. Heath</span>. Crown 8vo, cloth, gilt +edges, with numerous Illustrations, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Two Friends.</i> By <span class="smcap">Lucien Biart</span>, Author of "Adventures of +a Young Naturalist," "My Rambles in the New World," &c. 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Crown 8vo, cloth extra, 8<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C31" id="Page_C31">31</a></span></p> + +<p class="center b12 p4"><b>BOOKS BY JULES VERNE.</b></p> + +<table class = "verne" summary = "Verne Books"> +<tr> +<td class="tdc br"><span class="smcap">Large Crown</span> 8vo</td> +<td class="br" colspan="4">Containing 350 to +600 pp. and from +50 to 100 full-page illustrations</td> +<td colspan="4">Containing the whole +of the text with some +illustrations.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc br bt">WORKS.</td> +<td class="tdc br bt" colspan = "2">In very handsome cloth binding, gilt edges.</td> +<td class="tdc br bt" colspan = "2">In plainer binding plain edges.</td> +<td class="tdc br bt" colspan = "2">In cloth binding, gilt edges, smaller type.</td> +<td class="tdc bt" colspan = "2">Coloured Boards</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="br bt"> </td> +<td class="bt"><i>s.</i></td> +<td class="br bt"><i>d.</i></td> +<td class="bt"><i>s.</i></td> +<td class="br bt"><i>d.</i></td> +<td class="bt"><i>s.</i></td> +<td class="br bt"><i>d.</i></td> +<td class="bt" colspan="2"> </td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="br ">Twenty Thousand Leagues under the Sea. Part I.</td> +<td class="" rowspan="2">10</td> +<td class="br " rowspan="2">6</td> +<td class="" rowspan="2">5</td> +<td class="br " rowspan="2">0</td> +<td class="" rowspan="2">3</td> +<td class="br " rowspan="2">6</td> +<td class="" rowspan="2" colspan="2">2 vols., 1<i>s.</i> each.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="br ">Twenty Thousand Leagues under the Sea. 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Dropped from the Clouds</td> +<td>7</td> +<td class="br">6</td> +<td>3</td> +<td class="br">6</td> +<td>2</td> +<td class="br">0</td> +<td>1</td> +<td>0</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="br">Vol. II. Abandoned</td> +<td>7</td> +<td class="br">6</td> +<td>3</td> +<td class="br">6</td> +<td>2</td> +<td class="br">0</td> +<td>1</td> +<td class="br">0</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="br">Vol. III. Secret of the Island</td> +<td>7</td> +<td class="br">6</td> +<td>3</td> +<td class="br">6</td> +<td>2</td> +<td class="br">0</td> +<td>1</td> +<td class="br">0</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="br">The Child of the Cavern.</td> +<td>7</td> +<td class="br">6</td> +<td>3</td> +<td class="br">6</td> +<td class="br" colspan="2"> </td></tr> +<tr> +<td class="br">The Begum's Fortune</td> +<td>7</td> +<td class="br">6</td> +<td class="br" colspan="2"> </td> +<td class="br" colspan="2"> </td></tr> +<tr> +<td class="br">The Tribulations of a Chinaman</td> +<td>7</td> +<td class="br">6</td> +<td class="br" colspan="2"> </td> +<td class="br" colspan="2"> </td></tr> +<tr> +<td class="br"><span class="smcap">The Steam House</span>, 2 vols.:—</td> +<td class="br" colspan="2"> </td> +<td class="br" colspan="2"> </td> +<td class="br" colspan="2"> </td></tr> +<tr> +<td class="br">Vol. I. The Demon of Cawnpore</td> +<td>7</td> +<td class="br">6</td> +<td class="br" colspan="2"> </td> +<td class="br" colspan="2"> </td></tr> +<tr> +<td class="br">Vol. II. Tigers and Traitors</td> +<td>7</td> +<td class="br">6</td> +<td class="br" colspan="2"> </td> +<td class="br" colspan="2"> </td></tr> +</table> + +<p class="s08"><span class="smcap">Celebrated Travels and Travellers.</span> 3 vols. Demy 8vo, 600 pp., upwards of 100 +full-page illustrations, 12<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; gilt edges, 14<i>s.</i> each:—</p> + +<p class="s08">(1) <span class="smcap">The Exploration of the World.</span></p> + +<p class="s08">(2) <span class="smcap">The Great Navigators of the Eighteenth Century.</span></p> + +<p class="s08">(3) <span class="smcap">The Great Explorers of the Nineteenth Century.</span></p> + +<p class="hanging p2"><i>Waller +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C32" id="Page_C32">32</a></span> +(Rev. C. H.) The Names on the Gates of Pearl, +and other Studies.</i> By the Rev. <span class="smcap">C. H. Waller, M.A.</span> Second +Edition. Crown 8vo, cloth extra, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>A Grammar and Analytical Vocabulary of the Words in +the Greek Testament.</i> Compiled from Brüder's Concordance. For +the use of Divinity Students and Greek Testament Classes. By the +Rev. <span class="smcap">C. H. Waller, M.A.</span> Part I., The Grammar. Small post 8vo, +cloth, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> Part II. The Vocabulary, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Adoption and the Covenant. Some Thoughts on +Confirmation.</i> Super-royal 16mo, cloth limp, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Warner (C. D.) My Summer in a Garden.</i> Rose Library, 1<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Back-log Studies.</i> Boards, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; cloth, 2<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>In the Wilderness.</i> Rose Library, 1<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Mummies and Moslems.</i> 8vo, cloth, 12<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Weaving.</i> <i>See</i> "History and Principles."</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Wills, A Few Hints on Proving, without Professional Assistance.</i> +By a <span class="smcap">Probate Court Official</span>. 5th Edition, revised with Forms +of Wills, Residuary Accounts, &c. Fcap. 8vo, cloth limp, 1<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>With Axe and Rifle on the Western Prairies.</i> By <span class="smcap">W. H. G. +Kingston</span>. With numerous Illustrations, square crown 8vo, cloth +extra, gilt edges, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; plainer binding, 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Woolsey (C. D., LL.D.) Introduction to the Study of International +Law; designed as an Aid in Teaching and in Historical +Studies.</i> 5th Edition, demy 8vo, 18<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Words of Wellington: Maxims and Opinions, Sentences and +Reflections of the Great Duke, gathered from his Despatches, Letters, +and Speeches</i> (Bayard Series). 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Wreck of the Grosvenor.</i> By <span class="smcap">W. Clark Russell</span>, Author of +"John Holdsworth, Chief Mate," "A Sailor's Sweetheart," &c. 6<i>s.</i> +Third and Cheaper Edition.</p> +<hr class="l30 p2" /> +<p class="center p2">London:<br /> + +SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, & RIVINGTON,<br /> + +<span class="s08">CROWN BUILDINGS, 188, FLEET STREET, E.C.</span></p> + +<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 44333 ***</div> +</body> +</html> diff --git a/44333-h/images/title.jpg b/44333-h/images/title.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..38f953a --- /dev/null +++ b/44333-h/images/title.jpg diff --git a/44333-h/images/triangle.jpg b/44333-h/images/triangle.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e566484 --- /dev/null +++ b/44333-h/images/triangle.jpg diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..96813a2 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #44333 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/44333) diff --git a/old/44333-0.txt b/old/44333-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..0993946 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/44333-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,7518 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Hesperothen; Notes from the West, Vol. II +(of 2), by W. H. Russell + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Hesperothen; Notes from the West, Vol. II (of 2) + A Record of a Ramble in the United States and Canada in + the Spring and Summer of 1881 + +Author: W. H. Russell + +Release Date: December 1, 2013 [EBook #44333] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HESPEROTHEN, VOLUME II *** + + + + +Produced by Melissa McDaniel and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive) + + + + + + + +Transcriber's Note: + + Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the original document have + been preserved. Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. + + Italic text is denoted by _underscores_. Bold text is denoted by + =equals signs=. + + On page 26 Count Fritz Thumb should possibly be Count FritzThumb. + + On page 120 Indianopolis should possibly be Indianapolis. + + On page 124, General How should possibly be General Howe. + + A triangle symbol in the text is represented as [**triangle] + + + + + HESPEROTHEN; + NOTES FROM THE WEST: + A RECORD OF A + RAMBLE IN THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA + IN THE SPRING AND SUMMER OF 1881. + + BY + W. H. RUSSELL, LL.D. + BARRISTER-AT-LAW. + + IN TWO VOLUMES. + + VOL. II. + + LONDON: + SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, & RIVINGTON, + CROWN BUILDINGS, 188 FLEET STREET. + 1882. + + [All rights reserved.] + + + + + LONDON: + PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, + STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING CROSS. + + + + +CONTENTS OF VOL. II. + + + CHAPTER I. + + ARIZONA. + + Deming--The Mirage--Ruined Cities--American + Explorers--Self-Tormentors--Animals and + Plants--Yuma--California--Los Angeles--Santa Monica--The + Pacific Page 1 + + + CHAPTER II. + + THE YOSEMITE VALLEY. + + A new Land of Goshen--A Jehu indeed--The Drive to Clarke's--A + Mountain Hostelry--Grizzlies--Fascination Point--The + Merced--Yosemite Fall--A Salute--Mountain Airs--The Mirror + Lake--"See that Rattle?"--A Philosophic Barber 19 + + + CHAPTER III. + + SAN FRANCISCO. + + The Palace Hotel--General McDowell--Palo-Alto--The + "Hoodlums"--The real Sir Roger--Exiles in the Far West--The + Chinese Population--For and Against them--The Sand Lot--Fast + Trotters--The Sea-Lions--The Diamond Palace--The Coloured + Population--"Eastward Ho!" 44 + + + CHAPTER IV. + + CALIFORNIA TO COLORADO. + + Los Angeles--Mud-geysers--"Billy the Kid"--General + Fremont--Manitou, the Garden of the Gods--Desperadoes--Bob + Ingersoll--Denver City--Leadville--Grand Cañon 73 + + + CHAPTER V. + + KANSAS TO ST. LOUIS. + + Liquor Law--Kansas Academy of Science--An Incident of + Travel--A Parting Symposium--Life in the Cars--St. Louis to + New York 107 + + + CHAPTER VI. + + NEW YORK--NEWPORT--DEPARTURE. + + Coney Island--Newport--Bass-fishing--Habit of + Spitting--Brighton Beach--Newport Coaching--Extra + Ecclesiam--Victories of American Horses--Newport + Avenues--Return to New York--Our Last Day in America 122 + + + CHAPTER VII. + + RETURN TO EUROPE. + + The "_City of Berlin_"--The Inman Line--The Service at Roche's + Point--Queenstown Discomforts--A sorry Welcome Home 140 + + + CHAPTER VIII. + + SOME GENERAL REFLECTIONS. + + Education--Free Schools--Influence of Money in + Politics--Corruption in Public Life--Crime on the Western + Borders--The Great Rebellion--Anniversaries--Great Courtesy to + Strangers--Manners and Customs 151 + + + CHAPTER IX. + + THE RED MAN AND HIS DESTINY. + + Captain Pratt--Carlisle Barracks--An Indian Bowman--The Indian + Question--The Pupils' Gossip--The "School News"--Indian + Visitors--The White Mother--The India Office--White and + Red--Quo Quousque?--Indian Title Deeds--The Reservations--The + Indian Agencies--Missionary Efforts--The Red Man and the Maori + 186 + + + + +HESPEROTHEN. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +ARIZONA. + + Deming--The Mirage--Ruined Cities--American + Explorers--Self-Tormentors--Animals and + Plants--Yuma--California--Los Angeles--Santa Monica--The + Pacific. + + +_May 30th._--At an hour as to which controversy might arise, owing to +the changes of time to which we have been subjected, the train, which +had pulled up but seldom during the night, stopped at Deming Junction, +where the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fé Railroad "connects" with +the Southern Pacific, on which our cars were to be "hauled" to San +Francisco. Jefferson time and San Francisco time differ two hours, so +at one end of the station we scored 6 A.M., and at the other 8 A.M. +The sooner one gets away from Deming in any direction the better. A +year ago--as is usually the case hereabouts--there was not a trace of +a town on the dry ugly plain covered with prickly acacias and "Spanish +bayonets"; now Deming flourishes in gaming and drinking saloons, +express offices, and all the horrors of "enterprise" in the West. The +look-out revealed a few tents, wooden shanties, a station, at which +workmen were running up a frame-house, ground littered with preserved +provision tins, broken crockery, adobes and refuse of all sorts. At +the door of one hut, swarming with flies, swung half a carcase of beef; +two women were washing, pale-faced, but not uncheerful creatures, who +had not a good opinion of Deming and its population. "They carry out a +dead man a day, or used to," said one informant. The lady washerwomen +did not quite corroborate the figure; but, remarked the chattier +of the two, "there was a considerable shewtin' about last night!" +To the observation of one of the party that he was "going to have a +look about," the other lady made reply, "I guess if you dew it will +be 'hands up' for ten cents with you." On the platform was a United +States marshal, with a revolver stuck in his belt, but his duties were +considered to be punitive rather than preventive. Here Mr. Chase and +Mr. Hawley left us to return to Topeka. At the abschiednehmen Sir H. +Green was affected by a proof of interest in his welfare of a touching +character and very full of local colour; one of our friends beckoned +to him, took him aside, and pulling out a revolver ("It is hands up!" +thought Sir Henry), fully loaded, pressed it on his acceptance in the +kindest manner as a useful _compagnon de voyage_. As we were not to +stay at Deming, the self-sacrifice was not consummated. + +The regular train having come up, our special was tacked on to it, and +in an hour the locomotive puffed out of the depot, and sped westerly +on its way at the rate of twenty miles an hour, across a plain some +fifteen miles broad, bordered by jagged, irregular mountain ranges +north and south, as dry as a bone--so dry that water for the engine +has to be brought to the stations in tanks. A scanty growth of what +looked like camel grass, interspersed euphorbias and cactuses of great +height, was all that met the eye. We are approaching the great basin of +Arizona, and are warned that much dust and great heat must be expected, +and that the "scenery" does not improve in point of variety or verdure, +both of which are nearly at zero. A vigorous, well-directed campaign +against the flies in the saloon gave us comparative repose; then the +blinds being pulled down, and the thermometer reduced to 83 deg., +society settled itself to study, with results indicated presently by +a gentle _susurrus_ on the sofas. A sudden alarm, "Look at the deer!" +There sure enough was a herd of antelopes flying over the scrub towards +the horizon, which flickered about in the heat in a mirage of islands +and uplifted mountain ends--so vanished. + +After passing Lordsburgh, a desolate spot in the desert, there appeared +a beautiful mirage. The sand became a sheet of water, waveless and +mirror-like, and in it we saw reflected in trenchant outline the +mountain range beyond. "It must be water! it is water!" exclaimed an +unbelieving director. And, lo! as he spoke the "dust devils" rose and +danced along the face of the sea; in another minute the vision was +gone; the dazzling sand, white, blank and dull, mocked our senses. +This was near Stein's Pass, up which the train of nine carriages +was climbing--"the heaviest train that has gone over yet," said the +triumphant conductor. "But we thought we'd try it." Each waggon weighed +30 tons. The Pass is three miles long, and we were working at a grade +of 74 feet with a 19-inch cylinder engine. + +Between Pyramid Station and San Simon (_stant nomina umbrarum_--the +names of mere shadows of stations) the western border of New Mexico +is crossed, and we enter the great Territory of Arizona, which lies +between the Rocky Mountains and the Sierra Nevada. + +It is bounded by New Mexico on the east, by Mexico on the south, by +Utah and Nevada on the north and north-west, and by California in +continuation of the western boundary. It is as large as New York, +Pennsylvania, Maryland, New Jersey, and Delaware together. Whom it +belonged to first, so far as occupation constitutes possession, I +know not; but the Spaniards owned and neglected it for more than +three centuries before the Americans possessed it. In 1848 and 1853 +the regions now forming Arizona, New Mexico, Colorado, Utah, and +Nevada were ceded by the descendants of the Spanish conquerors to +the conquering Anglo-American. It would need weeks of assiduous +travel to explore the portion of Arizona where the most interesting +ruins in America, the cities of the Zoltecs or the Aztecs--for the +experts differ respecting their origin--are to be found. The weight +of authority and of recent investigation leads one to believe that the +Aztecs were not the builders of these ruined cities. Humboldt, indeed, +believed that they were; but, as Mr. Hinton remarks, in his capital +little handbook, which I recommend to prospectors, emigrants, tourists, +and travellers, "to suppose such an utter abandonment of settled +habitations, it will be necessary to suppose some strange impelling +reasons, either in climate or other causes, that must have amounted +to a catastrophe. An hypothesis which would leave a whole race able +to conquer an empire, and to preserve power enough to abandon without +destruction their old homes, implies conditions and forces without +a known historical parallel." The conclusion that many native cities +were flourishing when the Spaniards arrived in America may, perhaps, be +questioned. There is a distinctive character about them, differing from +that of the Mississippi mounds, the Central American pyramids, or the +ruined cities of Yucatan. + +The site of one of these cities was pointed out to us from the +train, and that was all we saw of them. But I heard so much about +the mysterious remains that I was induced to procure Mr. Bancroft's +remarkable essay on the native races of the Pacific Coast. Mr. Bancroft +believes that the Pueblos and other Indians, in a state of civilisation +which they subsequently lost, were the earliest inhabitants of these +countries and the builders of the cities; that the Apaches came down +upon them, and their work being then aided by the Spaniards, this +original agricultural people were swept off the face of the earth. +But where the Apaches came from the American ethnologists have not, +I believe, determined. For hundreds of miles these ruins cover the +country--stone houses, ancient watch-towers, and adobe buildings, +around which are quantities of stone implements, masses of crockery and +pottery. In some places there are structures of wood and stone, without +iron, the masonry consisting of thin plates of sandstone dressed on the +edges, and laid in coarse mortar nearly as hard as the stone itself. + +The explorers who have discovered the most interesting cities in +Arizona and elsewhere were officers of the United States army. They +have been the true pioneers of American civilisation in the West, and +it is most creditable to them that they have been able to furnish so +much scientific and antiquarian observation in the execution of their +arduous and often painful duty in Indian warfare. There is no cold +shade cast upon the labours of officers who desire to make a little +reputation for themselves by contributions to scientific publications, +and by papers on natural history and the like in periodical +publications or in the daily press. + +There is, as might be expected from its position, a very high +temperature in Arizona. This lasts from the middle of June to the first +of October. During the best part of summer exertion of any kind is +impossible. Metal objects cannot be handled without producing blisters; +rain scarcely ever falls; and, to keep up the drain of constant +evaporation, a man must drink a gallon or two gallons of water a day. +Mr. Ross Brown, speaking of the summer, declares that "everything +dries. Waggons dry; men dry; chickens dry. There is no juice left in +anything, living or dead, by the close of summer. Officers and soldiers +creak as they walk; chickens hatched at the season come out of the +shell ready cooked. Bacon is eaten with a spoon, and butter must stand +in the sun an hour before the flies become dry enough for use. The +Indians sit in the river with fresh mud on their heads, and, by dint of +constant dipping and sprinkling, manage to keep from roasting, though +they usually come out parboiled." But, although it is recorded that a +party encamped on a narrow cañon where the temperature was 120 degrees, +there was no sunstroke. And in that respect the climate differs from +that on the eastern coast, where, especially this very summer, a great +number of deaths were caused by _coup de soleil_. People, with the +thermometer marking 94 degrees, talk of its being agreeably cold. An +exceedingly interesting fact, if it be one, connected with residence in +this part of the world is the wholesome effect of complete abstinence. +Death from want of water was by no means infrequent in the old days +before so many wells were dug; but it only occurs when there is a good +deal of humidity in the air. Although alcoholic drinks and tobacco have +an injurious effect, there is a large consumption of both at all the +stations and at the mines. + +As in the Orange River Free State, where probably the conditions of +temperature are not very dissimilar, pulmonary complaints are cured, so +a residence in Arizona, it is said, stops consumption; and there are +authentic statements that people who arrived in a rapid decline have +experienced almost immediate relief of the principal symptoms, and have +been finally cured. Governor Safford, in an official letter, states +that his lungs were a good deal diseased, and that he was suffering +with a severe cough when he reached Arizona, and that in six months his +cough left him. He is satisfied the warm, dry atmosphere acted like a +healing balm to diseased lungs, and that, the pores being kept open, +the impurities which attack weak organs escape through the skin. Dr. +Loryea, of San Francisco, and Dr. Sawyer aver that Arizona is nature's +Turkish bath, and that Yuma, that evil-looking place, contains the +fountains of health. + +Of such vast regions a small acquaintance acquired by passing rapidly +twice over a line of railway does not entitle one to speak; but, if +what we read and heard of Arizona be true, there is within its limits +enormous mineral and agricultural wealth. There are carboniferous +basins of great extent and richness. The mountains teem with ore. +Silver and gold, copper pyrites, zinc, and lead are to be found over +a great range, the extent of which is as yet imperfectly known. There +are sulphates of nearly all the metals; metallic oxides, chlorides, +carbonates, nitrates; agates, amethysts, garnets, and other precious +stones. People there are who believe that the diamond, the emerald, and +the ruby will turn up in due time. In fact, if one were to be guided +by the accounts in the papers or the guide-books, he would think that +a sure way of making an immediate fortune would be to settle down on +any hillside in this favourite land. Nevertheless, what I saw out of my +window gave me reason to suppose that there was poverty in Arizona as +well as in the old country. Nor did the buildings which I saw by the +way at the sparse stations and infrequent towns give an idea that the +in-dwellers were well-to-do in the world. The adobe, or burnt brick, +which is a common material in lieu of better, has always a ruinous +appearance. The houses built of it yesterday seem tumbling to pieces +from the influences of old age. + +We take no note of time save by its relation to constant motion, and +to the "programme"--a Procrustean bed on which we have voluntarily +placed our tortured limbs. Sometimes in the hours of the night, which +could not be called still because of the incessant pealing, rattling, +and thundering of the train, I thought of the wonderful ways of man +with himself in such affairs as we were now engaged in. There is a play +of Terence which was a trouble to me in my youth, so long ago that I +remember very little more of it than the dismal and elongated name; +but Mr. "Heautontimorumenos" never needlessly bound himself up in a +programme and delivered his life over to a time-table! It is likely +enough, seeing what sort of man he was, that he would have adopted +that course had he lived in these days. I admit that programmes are +necessary when your movements regulate, or have to be regulated by, +those of other people; and that was the case in some measure with +us, but the solicitude it occasioned the worthy and valued friends, +whose brows I perceived becoming more puckered, and whose faces and +spirits were heavy with cares connected with the programme, to come up +to time, was beyond belief, and I vowed if ever I had my own way with +the ordering of a party I would have no programme at all. And plot and +calculate as you will, a gale of wind, or a heated axle, or a broken +bridge, or a flood, upsets everything, and your schemes gang aglee +utterly! It was admirable to see how we were working out the destiny +we had made manifest for ourselves in advance so long ago, but the task +was not easy. What curious sounds, by the way, our train made at night! +One could now and then compose words to the tune of the wheels, and +the regular rhythm forced one at times to hum the words of a song, of +which the train seemed to hammer out the music. It seemed so strange to +be turning into bed night after night, and waking up to pass the same +life day after day, like a log of wood carried on by an interminable, +irresistible torrent. + +Provided with books and newspapers, and friends to converse with, as +well as with sights to see, we had, however, no reason to complain +that time hung heavy on our hands as the train sped on. The books +were very utilitarian, it is true--Reports of Chambers of Commerce, +statistics and papers connected with railway and commercial enterprise +and the like. But our directors took to that literature with avidity, +and aided by maps and tables, copiously furnished to them, seemed +bent on passing with honours in a competitive examination anent the +American railway system. There were always, close at hand in the cars, +competent authorities to answer questions, or able champions to engage +in controversy, and as I heard all the subtle contentions, which I did +not understand, concerning signalling and baggage checking, gauges and +engines, curves and gradients, freights and fares, I was set to think +what the field had been in which all the ingenuity and talent displayed +in dealing with such topics were exercised in pre-railway days. These +discussions were mostly connected with the consideration of profits +and percentages, and that was a neutral ground on which the combatants +manoeuvred their facts and figures as in a natural "_schauplatz_". +There were times when such investigations ran down like a clock, +and no one wound them up again for a few hours, and then my friends +digested the remains they found on the field of battle and strengthened +themselves for friendly jousting. + +Not very long ago there would have been exceedingly good sporting in +many parts of Arizona. Grizzly bears, common and black bears; pumas, +mountain sheep, jaguars, ocelots, opossums, panthers, wolves, and +lynxes are largely distributed over the hill ranges. There are also +hares and rabbits and many smaller animals. Wild turkeys have much +diminished of late years; but there is a variety of birds, some of +them excellent for the spit. The chase, however, is attended with some +danger, unless one is very well booted and looks out where he treads, +as rattle-snakes abound, and are of exceeding virulence, the black +species being especially deadly. There are horned toads, but these are +harmless. + +For the botanist Arizona is an almost inexhaustible field of +delight. Any one who likes to read of vegetable wonders, or of an +extraordinarily varied flora, cannot do better than get Dr. Loryea's +work, or read 'New Mexico,' by Elias Brevoort. The growth which struck +us most was that of the extraordinary cactus called the candelabra +or Sahuaro. It is worth while going so far as the railway will take +one to see these plants sticking up on the sides of a rock without a +trace of verdure or moisture, rising to the height of 40 or 50 feet, +and throwing out enormous arms at the most grotesque angles, each +varying from the other in shape, the number of its arms, and in the +manner in which they are disposed. This giant cactus is covered with +prickles, and is of a light green colour. It is said that in the old +days the Apache Indians not unfrequently made use of them as handy +means of torture, and nailed their victims to a cactus previous to +setting fire to it. The body of the plant is resinous, and it can +be easily converted into a bonfire. Here and there we saw some with +traces of pale yellow flowers. When these are gone there is a fruit, +which makes an excellent preserve, or can be boiled into sugar. Then +there are prickly pears in great quantities; and there is a "negro-head +cactus," with a round top covered with sharp spines, which furnished +the Mexicans with fish-hooks. "There is a soul of beauty in things +evil." If a thirsty traveller coming upon one of these plants kindles +a fire around it, the juices of its body are gradually concentrated +into a central cavity, where they only wait incision to be liberated +in the form of a pleasant drink, half a gallon or more in quantity. +The appliances for getting a drink out of most of these roots are +described at length in various books of travel; but however useful they +may have been at the time, the activity of the Atchison, Topeka and +Santa Fé Railway will in all probability exempt travellers in future +from any necessity to avail themselves of these ingenious devices. +Trees flourish in spite of the heat and want of water. As various as +the trees are the human inhabitants, and one of the greatest marvels +connected with them, perhaps, is the extraordinary variety of dialects +amongst people of the same race, who lived in the same country long +before the white man came to trouble them. They are decreasing, of +course, in numbers; but in some of the reservations they seem to +have arrested downward progress, and to have taken to some form of +agricultural labour. At present Arizona is the happy hunting-ground +of the unfortunate red man. There is, I am assured, no disposition on +the part of the whites to intrude upon the reservations of the various +tribes. I did not hear of any one who had come in from the East to +settle with the view of making his fortune by farming; but miners have +flooded the cañons, and climbed the mountain-tops; and now they have +settled down into a steady way of life without any big "booms," as the +Americans say, but with prospects of pretty certain returns for their +labour. + +All night we travelled on, and when the morning came, we were still +traversing the desert, still passing through one of the most sterile +wastes on the face of the earth, where, however, by strange contrasts +of nature--or is it strange?--there were in the mountains and in the +ravines rich ores to tempt the cupidity and enterprize of man. We are +continually reminded of similar wastes in India and in Africa; but no +one, as far as I know, has yet discovered any mineral wealth in the +north-western deserts of our Indian Empire. And although Captain Burton +and others have fancied they have come across an El Dorado in Southern +Egypt, and Ibrahim Pasha had such faith in the existence of gold in +those regions that he led forth an expedition to perish there, there +is no such fortune in store for the adventurous miner as awaits him in +Arizona, Colorado, and California. + +_June 1st._--Everyone who has entered Arizona, or left it--and let us +hope he went back all the better for his visit--will recollect Yuma for +ever. + +Yuma is on the Colorado, which divides California from Arizona. +The muddy waters of the river rush with immense velocity past the +buttresses of the fine bridge, with a draw for steamers, that spans +it. The town consists apparently of adobe houses, and these not very +regularly built. I could not visit the main street for lack of time, +but the offshoots within eyeshot of us were not tempting. All we +could see from the railway windows were flat-roofed adobe houses, some +squalid Indians nearly naked, the buildings, with the Stars and Stripes +over them, of the United States post on the left bank, and a few wooden +sheds. It is said to be one of the hottest places in the world, and +certainly looked dry and dusty. They say that a soldier who died there +and went to an unmentionable place, returned in the spirit to beg for +a blanket, as he felt so cold! + +More happily constituted travellers than most of us have seen something +pleasing in the aspect of the country roundabout, and have been moved +to much admiration by the various tints of the hills in the distance, +and by the rocks which constitute the near limits of the valley through +which the river passes. In the old days, when the stage-coaches offered +the only means of travelling through the district, there might have +been a good deal to see along the road; but the rail generally avoids +sights, and where nature is at its best, the engineer strikes deep down +and burrows if he can. The colours of the hills are bright and varied; +the lava rocks are of many shades, and the sun, piercing through strata +of pure air, illuminates them with great vividness and force; but after +a time the eye tires of the uniform hues of the landscape. For a few +miles the rail runs close to the river, then plunges into the most +remorseless, cruel waste of sand and rock, spread out up to the foot of +the rugged hills of the Barnardino Range, I ever beheld--an abomination +of desolation compared with which the Libyan Desert or the plains of +Scinde were the Garden of the Hesperides. I cannot describe, nor could +I at any time hope to succeed in giving an adequate conception of this +dreadful wilderness. For 107 miles west there is not a drop of water to +be found; the stations are dependent on the railway for their supplies. +But Nature, as if to take away the reproach of permitting such a vast +blotch on her fair face, kindly threw in Fata Morgana. We saw with +delight widespread lakes with fairy islands in the midst; placid seas +washing the base of the distant hills. This baked and dreary expanse +extends nearly to San Gorgonio. We were spared the sandstorms which are +so dreadful, nor did we experience inconvenience from the dust. The +traveller, who has begun to despair of ever seeing anything greener +than giant cacti and the adamantine vegetation which dispenses with +water, is agreeably surprised as he approaches Los Angeles. If he +be as fortunate as we were in having such friends as Colonel Baker +and his wife to take charge of him, he will be amply repaid for far +greater discomforts than any he experienced in the Colorado desert. +From Los Angeles there is a railway to Santa Monica, seventeen miles +distant, which belongs to Colonel Baker; and I would advise every one +who can, either to spare or make the time for a diversion to that +most delightful spot. Judge of the pleasure we felt when, after a +picturesque run through orange groves, vineyards, and fields of corn +and barley, we gazed on the waters of the Pacific--"θαλαττα! θαλαττα!" +What a glorious scene! the broad bay lighted by the rays of the +declining sun; the blue waves rolling on in solemn march, and +breaking in long lines of foam on the dazzling sand, and nearer +still the gardens and trees of the Pacific Biarritz which was about +to welcome us! Our palace-car and its attendant carriages shot into a +siding close to the beach. In a few minutes "every man Jack" was off to +the bathing establishment to conform to the regulations ere we plunged +into the sea. It is an orthodox bathing-place of the highest order. The +Baths are extensive, and provided with every convenience and comfort +for ladies and invalids; hot and cold, salt water and fresh, for those +who do not like to trust themselves to the sea. A rope extended seaward +to hold on by was needful, for the surf was heavy and the undertow +strong. The water was delicious. Generally there is less sea on, and it +is never too hot or too cold for bathing. Next morning we had another +bath in a still rougher Pacific. The Duke and some of the party were +driven about the country by Colonel and Mrs. Baker, and at 3 P.M., to +our sorrow, we left the most lovable little spot of all we have seen +on this continent. Good fortune be in store for Santa Monica! At Los +Angeles, where carriages were waiting, we drove through the streets and +suburbs, which enabled us to appreciate the reasons which induced the +Spanish founders to give the city its name. In the evening we continued +our journey, passing in the dark over the feat of engineering called +the Loop. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +THE YOSEMITE VALLEY. + + A new Land of Goshen--A Jehu indeed--The Drive to Clarke's--A + Mountain Hostelry--Grizzlies--Fascination Point--The + Merced--Yosemite Fall--A Salute--Mountain Airs--The Mirror + Lake--"See that Rattle?"--A Philosophic Barber. + + +_June 2nd._--It is astonishing how soon one gets accustomed to the +rattle and rumble of the rail, and sleeps all the night through after +a time, waking up only when a train stops at a station, just as a +miller is roused by the cessation of the clock of the mill-wheel. We +keep good hours, and so at 4.30 this morning I was looking out of the +window at a sea of blue mountain ridges upon the west, which looked +like the waves of the ocean, so varied in the serrated edges was the +line of stony waves which seemed as if they were about to sweep down +over the great stretch of prairie. We were passing through a new land +of Goshen, at least that was the name which I detected on the station +board, indicating a junction with another line, and early as was the +hour the door of the hospitable restaurant was open, and gentlemen +in front were to be seen drawing their hands across their lips as if +they had been taking a refresher in the early morning. Close at hand +the country was perfectly flat, covered with glorious crops nearly +ripe for the sickle, and indeed cut and stacked in some places. Water +appeared abundant; a river flowing west was visible at intervals, its +course marked by a line of trees. Large black cranes stalked about in +the meadow-like fields, and hares sat up on end to take a look at the +train. The paucity of human beings, except at the rare stations, was +remarkable; only when I say "rare," perhaps I am scarcely justified, +as there were little wooden huts at intervals perhaps of ten or twelve +miles, where a saloon announced itself, and a possible ticket-office. + +On the east of the plain through which the line runs, the peaks of +the Sierra Nevada were visible, but the journey was rather monotonous +all the same, and we were glad when our train halted at Madera, about +ninety miles from Goshen, where we were to get out and start on our +expedition to the Yosemite Valley. Especial arrangements had been +made for our conveyance, but I almost doubt now whether it would not +have been better for us to have taken the ordinary carriage which +leaves Madera every day, except Monday, for the Yosemite Valley, at +7.45, arriving at Clarke's or Bruce's in somewhat less than twelve +hours, so as to bring daylight with it to the halting-place; a very +desirable thing, as we soon found out. It was 8 o'clock before our +party started from Madera, in two Kendal carriages with four horses +each. In one was the Duke, Lady Green, Mr. Stephen, and myself, with +Crockett on the box; in another were Sir Henry Green, Mr. Wright, Major +Anderson, and Mr. Jerome. Our driver was a man with the impossible +name of MacLenathan, a resolute, dry, taciturn man, with a good face, +seamed with the exposure to sun and rain of many years on the box. +But he told us he had deserted it lately, and had taken to the work +of livery stable keeper, only coming out on this occasion as driver to +do honour to the Duke. As it turned out, it was well his right and his +left hand had not lost their cunning. The driver of the other carriage +was a noted character, rejoicing in the name of "Buffalo Bill," and +later on we had reason to feel very thankful to him also for the +possession of great pluck and nerve. For some ten or twelve miles the +route, which consists of mere wheel tracks over the prairie, runs over +moderately undulating land. On the right there is a shoot or _flume_ +for carrying down timber from the upper part of the mountain ridge +fifty miles away. The dust was troublesome, and the rapid motion of +the four horses scarcely saved us from the roasting sun. The scenery +was not interesting; indeed, the great object of attraction was the +little Californian quail with his pretty crest, running across through +the grass or jumping up upon a stump to have a look at the travellers. +Stage stables were far apart, but the speed was fair, and it was +astonishing to see the excellent condition in which the horses were +at the end of their long canter, and what capital steeds were taken +out of the stalls, in which they were feeding on barley-straw, to +be put into the traces. I think the average length of the stages was +about twelve miles. We lost about an hour at a little mining village +where we halted for dinner, a place called Coarse Gold, as well as +I recollect, consisting of the usual buildings, a few shanties, the +store, the hotel, far better than might have been expected, and a sort +of wigwam or one-storeyed house, in front of which were assembled a +number of "Digger Indians," degraded specimens of a degraded tribe. +They sat looking at the new arrivals in the most apathetic manner, +just as they might regard so many flies. The men were dressed in a +compromise of old Indian attire, leather leggings and deerskin jackets, +with European clothing, caps, bad hats and trousers, and old boots, +the women swathed ungracefully in what seemed to be pieces of blanket, +their legs encased in folds of dirty cotton. One of these Diggers was +very slightly dressed, and as it is intensely cold in the winter, we +asked him whether he did not feel the effect of the frost and snow. +He knew a little English, and made the most of it. "When your body is +covered you do not feel the cold," he said; "But your face is always +uncovered, and yet you do not feel the cold there. An Indian's body is +all face." And that was all the explanation he would vouchsafe to us. +Somehow or another, what with delays at the stations, possibly caused +by our being out of the regular running, and being an interpolation on +the ordinary course of travel, and possibly owing to our reduced speed, +for the carriages with four horses did not, it seems, go as fast as +the public conveyance with six, it was getting dark as we approached +the line of wooded hills, in a valley in which, many miles away, lay +our halting-place for the night. The result of our delay in starting, +concerning which the driver had been severe from time to time, was +startlingly manifest as the coaches mounted the steep ascents of one of +the most tortuous roads in the world. The spurs of the hills come down +very sharply to the valley, and the road is carried round by a series +of very severe gradients following the contour of the mountain-chain, +so that at one time there is a deep gorge on your left, and then, as +the road leaves that spur with the valley on that side and crosses to +another spur, there is a great descent on the right, so that you are +continually passing along by a series of precipices, to which, in our +case, the fast gathering gloom imparted additional horror. Through the +sighing of the wind in the trees aloft came the roar of the torrents +down below. The drivers went along at a good steady canter, and from +time to time, as we came round a sharp curve, I dare say the thought +was in every one's mind, what would happen if one of the leaders +fell, or if the driver slipped his hand in gathering up the reins to +go round the corner. The scenery became more wild and formidable, so +to speak, at every fresh turn. The colossal trees, which challenged +admiration in the daytime, closed up in greater volume, darkening the +narrow road completely, so that in an hour after entering upon the +mountain-range it became as black as pitch. The lamps of Buffalo Bill +in the leading carriage were some guide to our driver. He had none, +and it was with anxiety, renewed every ten minutes or so, that we saw +the lights in front describe a graceful curve, which showed that they +were passing by one of the dips or cuts of the road. It needed skill +and judgment for MacLenathan to conduct the carriage, because if he +drove too close to that in front of us, the clouds of dust obscured +the view, and if he dropped too far behind he lost the benefit of the +lights. By enormous trunks of trees, by piles of timber, through deep +cuttings in the rock, plashing over watercourses, descending swiftly +into river-beds, and splashing through the fords over boulders, then +climbing up steep hillsides, on and on, it seemed as though the night +would never come to an end, and we inwardly, and audibly too, expressed +our regret that we had not started a little earlier; but still there +was an almost pleasurable excitement in holding on as we swept round +one of these terrible gorges, and tried to look down into the gulf +beneath. That last stage seemed interminable, but towards 9 o'clock at +night the driver of the coach in front announced that we were getting +"near at last"; and lucky it was, for his lights were giving out. "It +is just as well that they did not," said our driver, "because it would +be bad for you." "Why?" "Well," he said, "you would just have to get +out and walk! I would not undertake to drive any one in the dark along +such a road as this." Presently we heard the noise of rushing water, +and gained the bank of a stream flowing with swiftness over a shingle +bed. This we crossed, and in half an hour more, through the dark belt +of trees in front, lights were discerned, and, crossing another stream +and a bridge, our wearied horses were pulled up in front of the hotel, +a large wooden building, on the steps of which were the landlord and +his staff, and most of the inmates turned out to greet and inspect +the travellers who had been long expected. "It is a bad country to go +driving about in the dark," said Mr. Bruce, the landlord, a sentiment +in which we thoroughly agreed. There was a supper in the common +room, to which, albeit the fare was primitive enough, we did ample +justice. Travellers have complained of the charges along the road, but, +considering the distance which all articles have to be carried to the +Valley, the heavy duties, and the shortness of the season, I do not +think that any one with experience of Swiss inns would complain much; +and if the traveller desires to drink claret, he must not be astonished +if he pays eight or nine shillings a bottle for it. The ordinary fare, +at hotel prices, is quite good enough for hungry people, and eggs, +milk, and bread are abundant, and not dear. The bedrooms, sufficiently +simple in all their appointments, are good enough to be welcome to +tired people, for there is a fair bed to lie upon, and the sheets, as +far as our experience went, were clean and fresh. Nor were the insect +horrors, of which we may have some knowledge in parts of Europe, to be +dreaded, not even mosquitoes at this time of year. + +Soon after dawn a thunderstorm broke over the valley, hail and torrents +of rain, and the landlord congratulated us upon the cooling effect +it would have on the air, and on the absence of dust, which is rather +troublesome at times. It was necessary to make an early start in the +morning, for it is a long journey to the Yosemite. For some years past +the Valley has become a kind of American Chamouni, and if Americans +swarm over Europe in search of the sublime and beautiful, they cannot +be accused of neglecting altogether their own country. The first thing +I saw, on walking out on the verandah of the hotel, was the stage-coach +and six horses, with eight ladies and nine gentlemen, loading up for +the Valley. They had arrived late the night before, a little in advance +of us, and yet the ladies, bravely attired for the road, were all in +their place in the _char à bancs_ long before 7. Travellers frequently +stay at Bruce's, and our host promises good sport to any one who will +make it his headquarters; but I cannot speak with any confidence on +that point myself; still I should think it a very pleasant quarter for +a man who had nothing else to do, and who had an aptitude for climbing, +to go about looking out big game. We heard talk of pheasants, but +saw none: the bird which is called by that name not being entitled +to it, according to ornithologists. In front of the hotel was laid +out the skin of a cinnamon bear, which had been shot by an Austrian +gentleman--"Count Fritz Thumb," the landlord called him--a few days +previously, and which was to be sent after him as a trophy of his +skill. "But," says Boniface, "it was not he shot him at all; it was 'is +old Injun hunter." Grizzlies, he said, were rare, but they were to be +found if you went up high enough, and as he spoke he pointed up to the +mountains towering away in the distance in grand Alpine proportions. +Deer were common enough, and there were some tame specimens of the +ordinary black deer running about in the enclosure. We had an early +start, but not quite so early as the Americans; and it was wonderful +how well our four hardy horses did the first stage, six and twenty +miles, including some very sharp ascents from the Hotel. + +From time to time we got out and walked up the sharp bits, diverging +to the right or left to gather the lovely flowers which grew on +the roadside, or halting to admire the giant trees which clothed +the mountain ridges. Pitiable ignorance! not to know the names of +the plants or shrubs or wonderful bunches of blossoms, among which +fluttered the most magnificently coloured butterflies. Woodpeckers +of many different species uttered their quaint notes in jerky flight +from tree to tree, or peered at the travellers from the shelter of +the branches. Firs, pines, and spruces of enormous size, and trees +to me unknown, formed a dense forest on each side of the road; but +now and then we caught glimpses of the stupendous ranges of the alps +beyond. It was lamentable to see the waste and wreck wrought in this +wondrous wealth of timber--reckless, wicked waste. Charred trunks +stood with leafless arms withered and black, or lay prone among the +ferns in myriads. This was, we were told, the work of shepherds, who +think nothing of setting fire to one of the finest trees in the world +to warm themselves for an hour, and are delighted with a conflagration +which may lay a hillside in ashes. And the Indians too are held to +have their share in the destruction. There was enough of timber wasted +and destroyed mile after mile to build a city. The nemesis must come; +already the alarm has been sounded, and the State authorities here and +elsewhere are trying to prevent the mischief. I have often had occasion +to regret my ignorance of botany _inter alia_; but never did I feel it +more than when I was walking up the road, on each side of which was a +carpet of flowers, a maze of shrubs and plants--dense brushwood--to not +one of which could I give a name. We arrived at the Halfway House at +12.35 as much pleased as the horses which brought us there so well at +the respite, for it was an awful "pull up," and the coachman did his +work at high pressure. In the course of our pilgrimage we had found a +very pleasant _divertissement_. The Major, Mr. White, and Mr. Jerome +had excellent voices, and from time to time they burst into song, +giving with great effect the quaint negro melodies, which are now made +familiar to us in London, from a very large _répertoire_; and so the +afternoon passed in quiet enjoyment as we climbed the hills on foot or +in the carriages--snatches of talk, exclamations of wonder and delight, +and outbursts of the 'Golden Slipper,' 'O! that 'Possum,' 'The Ark,' +'John Brown,' 'Tramp, Tramp,' and other choruses. + +It was near 4 o'clock when the driver, who had been silent for some +time, looking round at us occasionally as one who would say, "Wait a +little till I surprise you," suddenly pulling up, said, "Now, here you +are. This is Fascination Point! Won't you get down a bit?" And, lo! +there indeed lay before us a scene of indescribable grandeur. I know +nothing like the effect produced by Yosemite Valley when seen for the +first time from this point. It has a characteristic which no other +similar view I am acquainted with possesses. You take in at one glance +stupendous mountain-ranges, all but perpendicular, beyond which you see +the snowy crests of the great Sierra, the profound valley between them, +a long vista of extraordinary magnificence, of cascades and precipitous +waterfalls, and far down below a silvery river rushing through a +forest composed of the noblest trees in the world, with patches of +emerald-green sward and bright meadows. + +I see that by a slip of the pen I have miscalled the place from which +we got our first view of the wondrous scene. But I have a right to +change the name for my own use. What the driver said was "Inspiration +Point." I prefer my mistake, for the view inspires you with no feeling +save that of wonder and delight. These sublime scenes appear to be +beyond the reach of poetry. Niagara and the Yosemite have not yet +found a laureate. The peculiar and unique feature of the valley seems +to me to be the height and boldness of the cliffs which spring out +from the mountain-sides like sentinels to watch and ward over the +secrets of the gorge; next to that is the number and height of the +waterfalls; but it is only by degrees and by comparison that the mind +takes in the fact that the cliffs are not hundreds, but thousands +of feet high--that these bright, flashing, fleecy cataracts fall for +thousands of feet--that the rent which has been torn in the heart of +the mountains, till it is closed by the awful granite portals beyond +which no mortal may pass, extends for miles. I thought as I gazed +that it were pity to descend, lest a nearer view might destroy the +effect of that _coup d'oeil_; but the driver had regulated the period +for rapture. He whipped us up to our places by word of mouth, and +the carriages renewed their course, now striking by bold zigzags down +into the valley for our destination, which was still six miles away. I +shall not attempt to describe my own feelings, far less can I pretend +to tell what others, probably far more susceptible of the beauty and +grandeur of what we beheld than I am, may have felt at the succession +of the awe-inspiring revelations of the tremendous grandeur of the +Valley which came upon us. What is the use of rolling off a catalogue +of names and figures?--even the brush of the painter, charged with +the truest colours and guided by the finest hand and eye, could never +do justice--that is, could never give a just idea of these cliffs and +waterfalls. "El Capitan! Oh, that's the name, is it? Three thousand +three hundred feet high!" And then you try to take in what that means. +"And it's 3500 feet down to the Valley? Dear me!" "And that is the +Cathedral Rock? And those two peaks are the Spires? I don't exactly see +the resemblance; do you?" + +There was a sort of wail of delight from us all as we came on the +"Bridal Veil Fall"; and I do not think any one cared to know that it +was just 60 short of 1000 feet high! Surely one of the most graceful, +lovely _chutes d'eau_ on earth, lost though it be from view behind the +rocks at the close of its feathery flight! But there was no stopping to +look at anything; relentless Fate drove us down and on, till the wheels +rolled more evenly, and at last we came to the bed of the valley--some +1800 yards broad, opening out here and there yet wider--and we +rejoiced in the sight of the bright clear water of the Merced, child +of innumerable icy mothers, flashing, sparkling, dashing and brawling, +like a myriad Lodores, between her banks decked with flowers and +covered with forest trees. + +Suddenly there dashed out of a glade two cavaliers, and made full tilt +at the leading carriage. "To arms!" Not a bit of it! Nor banditti +or Injuns--of whom we had met one or two riding sullenly along to +the hunting-grounds--no, only two hotel touts armed with cards of +self-commendation, and not apparently in much rivalry, for when told +that we had engaged our hotel, they galloped off to waylay other +travellers, of whose coming they were apprized by our driver. Our +hotel, I may say by the way, gave us full contentment. The site was +admirable, commanding a full and near view of _the_ Fall of Falls--the +Yosemite--which had so fascinated our eyes that we could scarce divert +them to any other object--not "Widow's Tears," or "Virgin's Tears," +nor the "Three Brothers," not anything but the Yosemite! And so, when +our rooms were pointed out, we made off to the spot where the fine +cloudlike vapour rising above the tree-tops indicated the basin into +which the waters sought rest after their troubled leap. + +Our way lay through the usual gathering of stores, hotels, livery +stables for the horses and ponies needed for the excursions, and +curiosity dealers' shops, to the village street, as it may be termed, +shadowed by fine trees, under which reposed some Indians--one of whom, +an Amazon in yellow toga, went riding full gallop past us, her hair +falling in a black mat on her shoulders, sitting low, in Melton style, +regardless of poultry, children, and boulders, and vanishing in a cloud +of dust under the trees. Then we turned to the left and crossed the +river by a rustic bridge; and as I looked down into the dancing waters +certain shadow-like objects flew up against the current. "Trout?" +asked I. "Yes, they're trout. They take 'em--when they dew--five +pounds weight. The Injuns catch 'em. We don't understand it as well." +A short walk, with eyes ever up-turned, and we come out to a moraine, +and, clambering up over a mass of trunks of trees and decaying timber, +_the_ Falls were before us--I cannot write more--no adjective will do. +"Two thousand six hundred and thirty-four feet, mind!" says the voice. +"I don't care," thought we, "it's the most beautiful and wonderful +water-jump ever seen by human eye." "It only remains," as they say, to +state that there is first, falling over a sheet of granite straight as +a wall, a considerable river, which in the plunge comes down at once +1600 feet. There, in a basin of rock, it collects its scattered forces, +under cover of eternal spray and cloud, and then takes another header +of 434 feet to a barrier of granite, against which it rages for a mad +moment, till it swells over and escapes from control by another spring +of 600 feet sheer down--and now it is free, and rushes past at our +feet, a joyous flashing stream. + +We returned through the meadows from the Falls, and as I was walking +in advance of the party a snake wriggled across the path, which I +struck at instinctively with my stick, and was lucky enough to kill +at the first blow. I exhibited the carcass, or whatever a snake's +dead body may be, in triumph to my companions. Further on our way we +fell in with an old Frenchman who was carrying a basket of fruit from +his little garden to the inn. With all the courtesy of his country, +he offered to Lady Green the choicest in his little _corbeille_. He +came from Lorraine very long ago to prospect in the States, almost the +earliest of the pioneers, but he was still strong and active, and he +pointed with great satisfaction up to a white flag planted on a dizzy +height above, which he said he had placed with his own hands. The chief +livery stable keeper is a German named Stegman. The first ascent of the +Dome was made by a young Scotchman named Anderson, from Montrose; so +with Indians, Americans, Mexicans, Europeans, there is a very liberal +representation of the nations of the world, in the season, in the +valley. Mr. Hutchinson, the Conservator of the Valley--one with all +the enthusiasm of the American character in everything pertaining to +the country, aggravated in this instance by an intense admiration for +the valley over which he is appointed to watch--joined us at dinner in +the little inn. Full of information, bubbling over with anecdote and +illustration, and replete with all kinds of knowledge concentrated upon +the one object--the Valley--the Valley--and nothing but the Valley. +He knows its history since the time it was first discovered, and its +natural history and geological formation, and all about the Indians who +lived there and their traditions. It so happened that the Commissioners +of the State of California, who are bound to visit the public +domains, were also at the hotel, and so we had quite an unofficial and +ceremonious meeting; and presently, as we stood in front of the hotel +gazing up on the peaks, lighted up by the stars, and listening to the +thunder of the waterfall, a startling report burst out on the night, +and in another instant the echoes repeated from rock to rock were +crashing through the Valley with the roar of heaven's artillery. It +was the first gun of a salute ordered by the Commissioners to be fired +in honour of the Duke's arrival. The effect was very fine, but I doubt +whether I did not feel full of resentment at the outburst, very much as +the owls and night-hawks might have been expected to feel, if one could +judge from their cries. However, even a salute and echoes must come to +an end, and as we were to get up early to start for the Mirror Lake, we +turned in to bed at an early hour; not, however, to sleep, because the +indefatigable and numerous company in the public room, off which were +our bedrooms, were in high spirits, and the song and the dance, to the +accompaniment of an invalid piano, for some time asserted their sway. + +Mr. Hutchinson had the Duke out early, because it is one of the +obligations to see the sun rise, reflected in the Mirror Lake--if +you can. There is no fear of cloud or rain. In the Mirror Lake is +reflected--or was as we saw it--the precipice at the other side of the +Valley, the bulk of Mount Watkins (so called from a photographer who +has been daring and successful in his renderings of the Yosemite), and +all the surrounding scenery. Once a friend and I saw a cow on its back +in the air, by the shore of a Highland lake. The surface was smooth as +that of the Mirror before us now. It was flapping its tail from side to +side, and its forelegs were up in the sky. We could not make it out at +first. There was, in fact, a cow standing near the water of the loch; +and what we saw was a reflection of the animal, actually stronger and +better defined than the object itself. So it was with the reflections +in the Mirror Lake; but when the sun rose over the cliff and we looked +at the water, the glare was too dazzling. "It was," as Mr. Wright +remarked, "like the electric light." There were curious optical effects +produced, some being troubled with purple, others with green or yellow +in their eyes, after a vain attempt to look at the reflection, but that +did not last long. + +We returned to breakfast to make an early start for Union and Glacier +Points on ponies. Among the company at the hotel, introduced by Mr. +Hutchinson, there was a young lady who was well acquainted with the +Valley, and who proved to be a very agreeable companion in our mountain +ride; but it was not long ere she was candid enough to let it be known +that she did not visit the Yosemite out of love of the picturesque and +beautiful, but that she was interested in the sale of photographs of +the Valley, and was, in fact, a very persuasive and efficient agent of +a firm in San Francisco, who had thus established an outlying picket of +great activity and vigilance; and I am sure we all hope she may always +be as successful with the visitors as she was with us. Of what we saw +from the Glacier Point I must leave others to write or speak. It is +reached by a zigzag on the mountain-side--a peculium of the maker, and +all the "trails," as they are called, in the valley are the property +of individuals or firms who are paid by tariff, and we heard "Eleven +gone up before--Duke Sutherland, Lady Green, Sir Green, Mr. Wright, Mr. +Russell, Mr. Jerome coming! Sixteen coming up behind!" On the plateau +behind the cliffs, from which you look down on the Valley and at the +snowfields on the mountain ranges opposite, there is a log house and +shanty, and there we had a mountain meal ere we began the descent. + +Nothing in the way of riding is more disagreeable than going down +a very sharp mountain-side on a pony not, for all you know, very +sure-footed, and so instead of riding, I resolved to walk, now and +then taking a short cut, to the great discomfiture of feet and boots, +although it is three thousand feet to the bottom, and make the best +of my way and the most of the road, which is very fair, down the zig +zags. I reached the plain thoroughly hot and tired, and bathed in +perspiration, in fifty-seven minutes. The horsekeeper, who came down +with the rest of the party, seemed to have been affected by the rarity +of the atmosphere or something else up at the mountain hostelry, for +he insisted on it that I had ridden down, and demanded his horse. +"What the thunder, Russell, have you done with my horse?" he asked +again and again. Satisfied for the time by my assurances that I had +not ridden at all, he went off, and then, thinking over the matter, +came back again to repeat his question, till I told him I would not +answer it any more. He was an amusing fellow in his way, and affable. +He called the Duke "Sutherland," now and then putting Mr. before it. +As he was watering his horses, he said: "Here, Mister Sutherland, lay +hold of the bucket, will you, whilst I take a turn at this one." And +the Duke did so with alacrity. It was a day of incessant activity. No +sooner had the mountain party come down than they were off again to +drive through the Valley. The rest of our party had already executed +masterly investigations at the foot of all the waterfalls; admired +the Bridal Veil and the Widow's Tear, as one cascade is satirically +termed, "because," says the guide, "it dries up in six months;" had +driven and ridden everywhere and seen everything, and we had to do the +same; but it would need a week of conscientious work to exploit the +Valley thoroughly. At half-past 7, the dinner hour, the little inn was +swarming with people; the stage had arrived with fresh contingents. +Every place was full, and what with the clatter of knives and forks, +the clamour of waiters, the tumult of voices laughing and talking, +it was scarcely possible to conceive that a few short years ago this +valley was in the exclusive possession of the Indian and the wild +beast. There is now, however, a great conflict of interests, and Mammon +is holding his revels in the Valley. The State has voted a certain +sum of money, twenty-five thousand dollars, I think, to buy up the +interests of the trail-makers; that is, those who struck out and made +paths to the various objects of attraction; but no success has yet been +attained in the negotiations, and, indeed, I should think it a very +bad investment for most of them to accept their share of such a sum. +Macaulay, for example, who made the path up to the point from which +we descended to-day, must make many hundreds of dollars in the height +of the season, as he charges so much a visitor, and, besides, has a +restaurant where they take their meals at the top. + +Next day (June 5th) we left the Yosemite with the satisfactory +assurance that we had made the most of our time, though we could not +believe we had done it justice. There were some small "nuages" on the +face of our "Mirror Lake," caused by changes in the mode of conveyance; +but we found six horses and one of the coaches of the country were +better than four horses and two carriages of less capacity. Yosemite, +I may tell my readers, means "Grizzly Bear" (it may be "Great Grizzly +Bear"); but we only heard of one having been thereabouts for a long +time, and I believe it was thoroughly tamed. After a glorious day in +the woods, clambering up the steep from the Valley, and then on by the +road--the only one--to Clarke's, halted there for the night, when we +returned from a ceremonious visit to the "Big Trees." We had a most +delightful ride from Bruce's, and a hard canter back through the woods +on capital ponies, full of life and action, and very sure-footed, but +rather inclined to have their own way, which was not always that of +the rider. We turned into bed at Bruce's, quite delighted with our +expedition, and rather anxious to see the road we had traversed in the +dark by the garish light of day. Every traveller's tale, and every +guide-book of recent date relating to this part of the world, has a +full account of the dimensions, number, appearance, and condition of +these wonders of the world. They are either prostrate, mutilated, or +decaying; not one has survived the stormy life he must have led for +some 3000 years--a few hundreds more or less do not signify. Those +which remain upright are scarred by fire and lightning, and drop their +monster arms, hung with ragged foliage and sheets of bright moss, +mournfully over the ground where their trunks will repose in time to +come. I cannot conceive any object of the kind so magnificent as one +of those Washingtonias in the full vigour of mature treehood; but we +could only fancy what it must have been like by measuring the stems, +for there was not anywhere in the forest a tree to be seen which had +not suffered. The best way to visit the scene--for it may well be +called so--is to strike out from the road on the way to the Yosemite +before the halt at Bruce's; but the hotel-keepers and stage-drivers +will persuade the stranger, if they can, to defer the excursion till +his return from the Valley, so as to make a half-day more out of him. + +_June 6th._--All up at 5 o'clock, and off soon after 6 A.M. The first +stage, eleven miles, we did in two hours and ten minutes--a very +pretty road; the second stage, eight miles, in forty-four minutes. The +ravages made by fires are most deplorable. We had passed through this +great forest track in the dark, but now seen in the morning light, the +trunks of magnificent trees rotting on the ground, or standing upright +with lifeless arms, consumed at the base, were visible everywhere. +It is difficult to find out the exact truth about the cause of these +fires. Some few people said "it was the Indians," but the weight of +testimony attributes them to the shepherds, who for the most trifling +purposes kindle a great fire. In some of the large trees they have +hollowed out regular chambers, and of course the tree dies. Such waste +of timber! For mile after mile we passed scenes of desolation which +ere long those who allowed them will have cause to regret. From time +to time we encountered on the road trains of waggons drawn by teams of +handsome mules with bells, and had occasion to admire the economy of +labour exhibited in the management, by which the driver is enabled to +work a powerful break with one hand whilst he drives with the other. +The next stage, of fourteen miles, was over an exceedingly bad road; +but the horses were good, and we rattled along at a capital speed down +towards the plain. Once the quick-eyed driver, pulling up suddenly, +said, "See that rattle?" leaped down and made towards the bush; and +as we followed him, sure enough we heard distinctly the noise of the +snake, which he had intercepted on its way to a rabbit hole. It took +refuge in a clump of bushes with gnarled roots, and coiled itself round +one of the branches; but by a course of judicious and rather nervous +poking it was driven from its vantage ground, and trying to escape was +killed by the driver with a blow of his whip, followed by a good many +unnecessary strokes from the rest of the party. It was over three feet +long, and had just been making an evening meal upon a rabbit, which it +had left where we had startled it; and it was evident from its swollen +appearance that it had been for some time engaged in the warren close +at hand. + +At 10.20 we reached Fresno, which is what the Americans call "quite +a place," containing not only an hotel, a restaurant, and a store, +but a shop where photographs were exhibited. The _chef-d'oeuvre_, a +portrait of a Spanish lady 140 years of age, living at Los Angeles, did +not, however, commend itself to our taste. We halted at Coarse Gold at +11.40, and left at 12.35. Mr. Jerry Loghlan--who excused himself for +not working on the ground that "there was no use in it, as there was +nothing to be had," the mines being worked "out"--whose acquaintance we +had made on the way up, a huge, broad-shouldered _vaurien_, was still +hanging about with his specimens of quartz, gold, and rattlesnakes' +tails, and a black eye recently acquired in battle. + +After a long, hot, and dusty drive, it was with no small gratification +we made out on the flat the houses of Madera, and after a time the +carriages of the special train. The air is so bright and pure that the +distances are very deceptive, and it was nearly 5 o'clock P.M. before +we reached the station, which had been visible for more than an hour +previously. It was pleasant news to hear that the little German barber +at the way-side had got baths all ready. In the rear of his shop there +was a row of apartments, each provided with a clean zinc bath, hot and +cold water to turn on at discretion, and an abundance of towels. This +in the centre of a waste seemed very creditable to the civilisation +of the people. I should like to know in what part of Europe you would +get similar comfort under similar circumstances. I am afraid there are +many parts of the British Islands where a traveller would demand such +a luxury in vain. And the barber was there to shave those who needed +it, and to give you all the news of the day if you wanted it. He was +a Prussian, and he grinned from ear to ear as, in reply to my question +whether he had served, he said: "Serve, indeed! Not I. I came away and +escaped from all that nonsense. There is not a king or an emperor or a +prince that I would fight for. Why should I?" "But," said I, "you would +have to fight for the Republic here if it were in danger; and that +would not be fighting for your fatherland." "Yes," said he, "it would, +for this is my fatherland now. But I do not want to fight for it either +if I can help it. Fighting is nonsense." + +Our excellent stewards received us, if not with open arms, with smiling +faces. The carriages were trim and clean and fresh, the tables spread +out, and all kinds of dainties provided for the evening meal. We rested +quietly for the night in the siding at Madera, and got under weigh at +5 o'clock on the morning of June 7th, the train being timed so as to +reach San Francisco at 12.30. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +SAN FRANCISCO. + + The Palace Hotel--General McDowell--Palo-Alto--The + "Hoodlums"--The Real Sir Roger--Exiles in the Far West--The + Chinese Population--For and Against them--The Sand Lot--Fast + Trotters--The Sea Lions--The Diamond Palace--The Coloured + Population--"Eastward Ho!" + + +The British Consul, Mr. Booker, who has been watching over the +interests of the Queen's subjects for some thirty years here, and who +is an institution by himself, met the train at a place called, I think, +Porta Costa, and welcomed the Duke and his friends. There had been +for some days an infusion of the Chinaman in the general element of +life along the line, but here it became concentrated, and then ceased +to attract much attention. As the train approached the wide expanse +of muddy water from the Sacramento, which charges down with impetuous +volume, and colours the bay with its turbid stream, we could form an +idea of some of the advantages in the expanse of navigable river, that +had, however, lain long without appreciation but for the bright red +gold possessed by San Francisco. The bay is animated; white canvassed +craft stud its waters, and the smoke of steamers pollutes the clear, +bracing air. Italian fishermen are busy with line and net, and flights +of ducks and squadrons of gulls and cormorants show that the waters +are well stocked. It was too late in the year to see the country in +the full affluence of its wealth of fruit and crops, of hay and corn, +and the hillsides and fields are now disappointingly brown. Presently +we arrived at Oakland, where the train was run out on a pier 3500 +yards long, to the steam ferry-boat which was to convey us across +to San Francisco. The ferry-boat was crowded, for Oakland is a city +of some 50,000 people; and of course it had once on a time, not very +remote, only a few sheds and insignificant houses. From this side of +the bay the city of the Golden Gate, some miles away, was now visible +in all its pride of place--pride but not beauty, now at least--for the +city presents no great attraction to the eye. The streets, running in +parallel lines at right angles to the quay right up the sandy hillside, +look like the ribs of some stranded monster, "lank and lean and +brown." The most prominent object is the hotel to which we are going, +which towers far over the general level of house-top, steeple, and +factory-chimney. + +There is a little pamphlet, crammed with statistics and with an array +of figures and superlatives enough to daze one, given to the guests +of the Palace Hotel; but those who are in that happy category scarcely +need the information, and those who are not could not derive any idea +of the building from the repetition of the ciphers which are to be +found in the guide-book. The drawing on the outside affords the best +notion of the size, but only actual purview can enable one to judge +of the excellent arrangements, the service, the table. For once the +American idol "Immensity" is not overlaid. "'Tis blinding bright--'tis +blazing white! O Vulcan! what a glow!" Electric lights flooding the +court with brightness beyond description. And what a court! Sweetness +and light indeed! In the great quadrangle, 144 feet by 84, there are +fountains playing, groups of statuary, and exotic plants, and, tier +after tier, rise the pillared terraces outside the seven storeys of +which the main building consists, painted a lustrous white, shining +like purest Parian. There are 755 rooms, abounding in conveniences, +and comfortably luxurious. Each is provided with high-pressure hot and +cold water, and there is an elaborate system of ventilation, alarms, +conductors, pneumatic tubes, telephones, and "annunciators" for fire, +letters, servants, &c. The beds are excellent; the furniture admirable; +and this vast structure, 120 feet high, 275 feet broad, and 350 feet +deep, is not only fire, but--listen--"earthquake proof"; so says the +bill of fare, and so says ex-Senator W. Sharon, the proprietor. I have +not the least desire to test the truth of the averment, but if I must +be in a hotel when an earthquake visits the city in which I am, let me +be in the Palace, San Francisco. A man may live here in the enjoyment +of a pretty continuous series of meals and one of the best bedrooms +for four dollars a day, and there is a lower tariff of bed and board at +three dollars a day. + +_June 8th._--Our first day was rendered exceedingly pleasant by the +kindness of General McDowell. The weather did its very best to prevent +our enjoying it, and was signally defeated. San Francisco is perhaps +the windiest city in the world, and at this time of year there is +almost always a storm in the harbour, and a steady, powerful, and +somewhat chilly blast, setting in a little before noon, and lasting +throughout the day until nearly sundown, up the streets. The General's +aide-de-camps came over early to the hotel, in full uniform, in honour +of Major-General Green, but General McDowell appeared in mufti, which +eased us down a little. A powerful steamer, the "_General Macpherson_," +was prepared for the party, which was swollen by a considerable number +of gentlemen invited by our host to meet the Duke, and the gentlemen +from Topeka, who were included in the invitation. The excursion +afforded a favourable opportunity of inspecting the city defences. +From Alcatraz Fort, Point and Presidio Island batteries, which would +not be considered very formidable as far as armament is concerned, +although their position affords great advantages for torpedo defence, +salutes were fired in honour of Sir Henry Green. But in the case of +some of us the sight was marred by the rising sea, which increased to +an inconvenient height as the steamer reached the Seal Rocks, close to +the entrance to the bay. Of the seals I shall give an account farther +on. They did not seem to mind the steamer very much until she blew her +whistle, when many of them splashed into the sea. At the termination of +the trip, which lasted some four hours, General McDowell entertained +the party at his official quarters, which are beautifully situated on +a bluff overhanging the water of the bay. + +_June 9th._--We spent, in some respects, an abortive and deceitful +day; not, indeed, that there was anything disappointing about our +entertainment at Belmont, under the auspices of ex-Senator Sharon; +but that we started full of enterprise, and intent upon inspecting the +great works of the Spring Valley Reservoir, and of making an excursion +through what was described as a very beautiful county whence is +brought the water supply of the great city in which we were sojourning. +However, though we were baulked in the object of our expedition, the +day passed, and not in the least degree unpleasantly, and instead of +going to the Lakes we drove about the neighbourhood of Belmont, and +visited several country seats. + +No one who visits San Francisco should omit taking an early opportunity +of going to Palo-Alto to inspect the stock of General Stanford's +thorough-breds, and the breeding establishment, which as a sample of +perfect order and management cannot be surpassed. I cannot answer for +the figures, but I was informed that the owner spends 25,000_l._ a year +upon the maintenance of his stud and stables, and that he has not as +yet sold a colt or filly, or parted with a single animal; sires, mares, +and young brood now amounting to about 700 head. They are beautifully +housed in detached stables fitted up with every convenience that a +horse of the highest pedigree and most luxurious taste can desire. +I was particularly struck with the perfect silence which prevailed +throughout the stables. No shouts to "stand over there," and none of +that "----" (groom's expletive) which is so common in our country. +And partly owing perhaps to that mode of treatment, and to gentleness +in handling, all the horses without exception seemed tractable and +sweet-tempered. High-bred stallions stood out in the open for our +inspection, and allowed themselves to be rubbed and felt without even +laying down their ears or raising a hind-leg from the ground. In reply +to a question respecting a remarkably beautiful animal, which seemed to +have a little more fire in him, the head groom said "You may walk under +his belly if you like," and then and there he told one of the grooms +to do so, which the man did, without attracting any unusual degree of +attention from the animal. Outside one of the large blocks of stables +there is a kind of testing arena, in which we were told it was the +pleasure of General Stanford, when he was at home, to sit watching the +performance of his young horses. It is an ellipse, like a large circus, +bordered with a hoarding, and in the centre there is a raised stage for +the visitors, on which are revolving chairs. The riding-master, with an +attendant, performing the functions of the late Mr. Widdicombe, sets +the animal in motion, checking him when he breaks into a gallop. The +speed at which the animal trots the ellipse is known by the time marked +on a chronometer, and the fact is recorded for the information of the +inspectors, who can turn round their chairs and follow the action of +the horse as it trots round the ring. + +The district of the State in which Palo-Alto is situated boasts of +several residences of the Californian millionaires. One house which +we visited, I think belonging to Mr. Flood, furnished the most ornate +and beautiful examples of woodwork that were ever seen by any of the +party. The house, which was as large as a good-sized English country +mansion, is constructed of timber of the finest quality, beautifully +worked, painted and varnished; and with moderate care a mansion of this +kind will last, in this climate, a couple of hundred years, which to +the American mind is an eternity. There were artists from New York, +and the staff of an upholsterer and decorator of great renown from the +Empire City were still busily engaged in the place as we went through +the rooms. The magnificent halls, reception-rooms, billiard-rooms, +library, bedrooms, all fitted up with extraordinary luxuriousness, +but in a somewhat florid taste, were of wood, the doors of many of +the apartments arresting attention by their extraordinary beauty and +finish. The ceilings decorated in fresco by Italian artists, and bright +windows filled with stained glass gave an appearance of light and +grace to the whole residence. The kitchen arrangements were marvels +of ingenuity, and one envied the butler who would have such a pantry +as that which was displayed for our inspection. Some of the pictures +which were ready to be placed on the walls were remarkable, however, +only for the richness of their frames; and, indeed, we heard that +the excellent proprietor was not a man of very cultivated taste; a +child of fortune, in the prime of life and of money-making, spending +a portion of his enormous wealth with an easy hand, but destitute of +what is called book-learning, and leaving to some future generation the +cultivation of the graces and the acquirement of accomplishments which +the circumstances of his early life had denied him to effect. + +It had been arranged that we should return to San Francisco to dinner, +but Senator Sharon had in his secret heart resolved that we should do +nothing of the kind, or at least, that if we did so, it should only be +after we had partaken of such a feast at Belmont as would very much +indispose us to test the capabilities of the _chef_ of the Palace +Hotel. From Palo-Alto accordingly we were driven to the charming +country house, some miles away, of the ex-senator of Oregon, and we +were regaled there, after some delay, at a very elaborate _déjeûner_, +sent out from San Francisco. It was nigh 8 o'clock ere we got back +to the city; and the night ended by what might well be called "an +excursion" to the Baldwin Theatre, which was at the time the most +attractive of the places of entertainment of that sort open in the +city. As some of us were walking back, after the play was over, with +an American friend, talking of the "hoodlums," famous rowdies, who, we +were assured, had been of late days utterly broken up by the vigilance +of the police, our attention was attracted to a number of lads smoking +at the corner of the street. Our friend said "Hoodlums broken up! There +they are--don't you believe it. That's a lot of them, and if you were +alone you might find out very unpleasantly that there are plenty of +them." + +The San Francisco journalists possess astonishing powers of +imagination. I rubbed my eyes when I read that I had described "with +eloquence the similarity between a marsh at San Bruno and a patch +of jungle in the north-west of Scinde, where I had the felicity +of spending three weeks with General Green while the natives were +arranging a plan to capture the party and cut our throats." I never +was in the north-west of Scinde in my life, and, although I had the +pleasure of passing a longer time in his company in the United States, +and of being on the same plateau before Sebastopol when he was there, +for a still longer period, many years before, I never spent three +weeks there with General Green. The Duke was described as "professing, +but showing, little enthusiasm." However, these matters are of very +slight interest or importance; only one wonders how many of the readers +of this sort of literary work believe in it. One of our party has, +according to a local paper, become a clergyman, and now rejoices in the +style and title of "the Bishop," by which he is universally addressed +by the party. + +While in the train, on our way to Belmont, I had the pleasure of +being introduced to a gentleman who, although a lawyer in very large +practice, is General of the State Volunteers; and in the course of +conversation, I heard that he had papers containing the statement of +a gentleman who had visited, and which convinced him that the real +Roger Tichborne was living not very far from San Francisco. General +Barnes, whose name and character stand high in the city of the Golden +Gate, and whom I found to be a gentleman of great intelligence, seemed +perfectly satisfied by the story told by this new "claimant"; but what +he mentioned to me did not at all tend to create in my mind any notion +that he was not an impostor, and especially were my doubts confirmed by +the quotations which General Barnes made from some of the narrative, in +which there was a ridiculous jumble of French and English, in order to +justify, apparently, the stress placed by the "claimant" in his story +on that part of his life which was passed in France. He spoke of his +uncle as "mon oncle," and of Thursday as "Jeudi," and so on. However, +General Barnes appeared to be so impressed by the truthfulness of the +man's bearing, and by the full details he gave him at an audience +in which he supplied the facts for the consecutive narrative which +I was promised, that I expressed a desire to read it. General Barnes +subsequently sent me a long written paper containing the heads of the +claimant's story, a perusal of which strengthened the conviction I +had previously entertained. I only mention this circumstance because +there was a report spread throughout the Press, by the agency of one +of the great telegraphic associations which furnish the American +public with intelligence, that the Duke of Sutherland and myself +had interviewed the real Roger Tichborne at San Francisco, and had +satisfied ourselves that he was the man; and innumerable "headings" +were invented for this supposed interview, of which I was soon made +aware on my return westward in every newspaper that I read. I promptly +denied the statement that the Duke or myself had seen the new claimant, +and although the denial appeared in print I was exasperated day after +day by being asked questions afterwards with regard to this supposed +conversation with Tichborne at San Francisco, and by inquiries as to +my real impression; so it would appear that no one had seen or paid +any attention to the refutation of the story which had brought down +on my devoted head communications from friends of other Tichbornes, +of whom there are several living, some in poverty and others in +comparative affluence, in various cities and districts of the United +States. I had further the mortification of seeing it stated in print +that I had used disparaging words in alluding to the credulity of +General Barnes, which was an entirely baseless fabrication. With all +the extraordinary keenness of the American mind generally, there is +associated with it a considerable amount of the Anglo-Saxon quality +which is termed "gullibility," and the land swarms with impostors who +make a living out of the easy faith of the population. I do not speak +merely of spiritualists, quacks, and professors of peculiar religions +or medical dogmas, nor of the preachers of eccentric forms of faith or +unbelief, but of the mass of persons who contrive to get an existence +by representing that they are "someone else." Although their tricks +are well known, the trade still flourishes. They are always the "sons +of peers," who have got into disgrace with their families, but who +will eventually be owners of castles of historic fame and of enormous +estates; "distinguished soldiers"; "Maids of Honour to the Queen," +who for some unknown reasons are living in small out-of-the-way +villages in the West; or political conspirators who have played a great +part on some distinguished stage and have saved themselves from the +consequences of defeated enterprize by taking refuge in the States. +And then there are hordes of persons who are known by the title of +"confidence men," who travel about on the trains or in the steamers, +looking out for victims, or lounging about the bars and saloons, +waiting for their prey in the shape of some facile and easy-eared +stranger, who in consideration of their merits and distress shall give +them temporary assistance. Sometimes, doubtless, there are cases of +very real suffering, sorrow, and poverty, to which exile in the United +States affords a melancholy refuge. I was obliged to hear in one great +city of a gallant soldier who, reduced to poverty by no fault of his +own, had quitted England and given up the society of his friends, +and lived in a small suburb of a town on the coast of the Pacific, +his secret known only to one or two officials, shunning all contact +with his countrymen and evading as far as possible all inquiries of +his friends. In San Francisco, where there is a poor-house open to +strangers and to native-born Americans alike, there are, I am told, to +be met with extraordinary exemplifications of the "downs" of fortune. +Adventurous and daring spirits, and pioneers of civilisation, at one +time probably possessed of wealth which was wasted in dissipation, +or lost in unfortunate speculations, are there, talking of the days +that are gone, in all languages of the world, and awaiting their end; +while others who started with them in the same race are building their +palaces or revelling in the enjoyment of wealth, compared to which our +greatest fortunes are, if figures can be trusted, a mere bagatelle. How +rapidly some of these fortunes can be made was illustrated by numerous +stories connected with some of the richest men in California. I was +told by an eminent tradesman of San Francisco that one day a miner came +into his establishment to buy a watch, which he said must be cheap +and good, for he wanted something he could trust to in the matter of +time, as he was going off with a party on an exploring expedition +after gold. This was in the early time of the great "booms" in the +West. He selected a watch, for which he paid $40, and departed. The +following day he appeared in the shop and asked to see the proprietor, +and then, producing the watch, he said he would like to have $30 for +it, as he had lost all his money in a "spree" the night before and +must have something to start with. The jeweller said, "Well, I will +return you what you gave me for the watch, as it has suffered no harm, +and you shall have your $40 back again." The man went away exceedingly +rejoiced, and the incident was forgotten. Some eighteen months +afterwards a man came to the establishment, and looking at rings, gold +chains, and jewellery of the most costly character, and asking for the +best of everything that they had got, gave orders which occasioned the +attendant to have some doubts as to his sanity, or certainly as to the +means he had of paying the amount, which was rapidly running up to tens +of thousands of dollars. So he sought out his principal. The strange +customer said, "I suppose you don't know me?" which was admitted to +be the case. He went on buying all the same, making the remark, "You +need not be uneasy about the money, for So-and-so (the bankers) will +tell you I am all right, and when you send the things home you shall +be paid. I am Joe Smith, from whom some time ago you took a watch he +bought from you when he came to your store, and gave him the full value +for it when he was in want of money," and so departed, having shown his +gratitude by buying 6000_l._ worth of jewellery. This worthy miner is +now one of the wealthy pillars of the State. + +The Chinese quarter of San Francisco has been described, I will not say +_ad nauseam_, but as often as any book has been written which contains +an account of a visit to the city of the Golden Gate. Of course we +went there, and saw all that was to be seen under the best possible +auspices, for Mr. Bee, whom I have already mentioned, was our guide +and companion, assisted by an exceedingly intelligent officer of the +police force; and on the occasion of our second visit, when we went to +the theatre, we had the advantage of being under the protection of the +gentleman who represents law and order, on behalf of the municipality, +in connection with the Chinese population and the arrangements for +theatrical performances. + +The inspection of the dreadful den in which the opium-smokers were to +be seen suggested to my mind a train of thought in connection with the +traffic which I would not willingly have communicated to my American +friends. It will seem incredible some day to the awakened conscience +of the nation that we should have ever sanctioned such a frightful +crime as the opium traffic. "It only poisons about two millions of +people," is the excuse, "and brings in one-sixth of the whole revenue +of India." If ever it were justifiable to utter the exclamation "Perish +India!" it would be, I believe, in regard to that disgraceful source of +revenue, and the necessity that is imposed upon us, as it is alleged, +to raise it, in order to maintain the government of our Indian empire. +Here in San Francisco the State has nothing to do with the sale of the +poison, and it is very questionable whether the police regulations +should not be applied to it, just as they are to persons who have +tried to commit suicide, or to the inebriates in public-houses, or to +places where intemperance is carried on to an extent injurious to the +public peace. Death is the inevitable result of continued indulgence +in opium-smoking, although it is true that in some cases the victim +lingers on a few years, utterly indifferent to all the business of life +except the one--the means of supplying himself with his only source +of enjoyment. I was in one of the shops where they sell the drug, and +was much struck by the cadaverous, sunken faces of the unfortunate +customers, with bright dreamy eyes, trembling limbs, and wasted bodies, +who came in to buy it. It is cheap enough, in all conscience, as a very +small quantity suffices to produce what is called "the desired effect"; +but for its bulk it is exceedingly dear, and indulgence in it must +consume a considerable amount of the earnings of the best-paid artisans +when they are no longer able to earn sufficient to keep them with a +full supply. "Then," as our informant says, "they will commit any crime +to get it." + +The general impression made upon me by the appearance of the Chinese +population was most favourable. I do not now speak of what one might +see in going through the haunts where the police regulations assign +exclusive possession to certain classes of the population, which, sooth +to say, seemed numerous enough; I refer to the business quarters, and +to the crowds of cleanly, intelligent, well-behaved people of both +sexes in the streets. General McDowell, and many other persons, for +whose opinion the greatest respect must be entertained, look with +apprehension on the effect of the Chinese immigration, and have, +indeed, declared that it will destroy the Union if it be not checked; +and these apprehensions are based upon the possibility that in time +millions on millions of the swarming population of China will inundate +the United States, gradually overrun town after town, usurping all +the fields of labour, and beating down the white man to the greatest +misery by competition in every branch of trade, industry, and labour. +This party has successfully, I believe, impressed its views upon a +considerable number of senators and representatives in the Eastern +States, who can exercise pressure on the Supreme Government; and +the treaty recently signed between the Republic and China contains +provisions which enable the authorities at the western seaports to +exercise considerable control over the current of emigration. But, on +the other hand, it is alleged that the fears which are expressed of +a rapidly increasing exodus of Chinese from China, and an anabasis +into the United States, are purely imaginary--in fact, unreal and +pretentious. The pro-Chinese party allege that the emigration comes +from only one port in one province, and that you may go all over the +West, and ask any Chinaman or Chinawoman where he or she comes from, +and you are met with the invariable answer, from the one port. The +friends of the Chinese--arguing, moreover, that the State at large +is benefited enormously by the accession to its resources from the +Celestial Empire, and that the labour was attacked, not because it +was cheap, but because it was good; that it is now indispensable, for +without Chinamen and Chinawomen it would be almost impossible to carry +on the ordinary life of these cities--allege that the agitation which +has been so violent in San Francisco is mainly encouraged by those +who want to secure the Irish vote. Colonel Bee represents these views +very strongly. He argues that Canton, not larger than the State of +New Hampshire, is the sole source of emigration. He insists on it that +there are no more than 100,000 Chinese in the whole of the Union, and +that for the last ten years the emigrants have not sufficed to fill +the places of those who had gone home with money, never intending to +return, or who had died. He maintains, indeed, that the Chinese are +decreasing rather than otherwise; and with all the power of figures, +which he has at his fingers' ends as Consul, demonstrates that a very +large proportion of the Chinese who are entered as arriving at San +Francisco and other parts are the same men and women as those who came +some years previously and went back to their native country, returning +to gain more dollars. + +The principal enemies of the Chinese are the Irish, who, having +monopolised the whole of the work of bricklayers, plasterers, carters, +porters, and general labourers until their arrival, have been forced +to reduce their rates of labour steadily by the competition of the +Chinaman. + +The part of the population of San Francisco denominated the Sand lot, +and especially those connected with the political associations of the +city, do not by any means share Colonel Bee's views; but the agitation +is dying out, and the meetings, which were of weekly occurrence, to +excite the people against the Mongolians have decreased in number, +importance, and interest. The directors of public companies, and +the contractors for public works, are all in favour of the Chinese +workman, who is sober, industrious, and orderly; and although the trade +combinations among them are exceedingly subtle, and their powers of +association for trade purposes remarkable, being moreover the most +ancient in the world, the Chinese in the Western States have not as +yet taken to indulge in the luxury of strikes. As domestic servants, +nurses, and attendants on children, they appear to be affectionate +and careful; and nothing could be better than the service of the hotel +in which we were lodged, the great portion of which was carried on by +Chinamen and women. + +_June 10th._--In the spacious courtyard of the Palace Hotel, at +7 o'clock this morning, there might have been observed three +well-appointed waggons (as Americans call the vehicle more +appropriately termed "spider" at the Cape), each with two horses +of race, fast trotters, panting for a spin through the city and the +Park out to the shores of the Pacific. The Duke and Sir H. Green and +Mr. Stephen were driven by Mr. Howard. Mr. Wright was "personally +conducted" by Mr. ----, and I was put behind a pair of as handsome +chestnuts as could well be seen anywhere, of which the owner and +driver (General Barnes) was very reasonably proud. The streets of +San Francisco, like those of most of the American cities we have +visited, are atrociously paved; the torture of driving over boulders +is aggravated by the sharp ribs of the tram ways, so that it is not +pleasant, if, indeed, it be possible, to drive rapidly till the limit +of municipal incompetence or fraud be passed. But once out on the +suburbs the chestnuts were invited to step it, and were bowling along +at a good fourteen miles an hour on our way to the Park, over as good +a road as horse or man ever felt under hoof or foot. The Park not long +ago was a waste of sand, it is now swarded and planted with shrubs, and +luxuriant with flowers. Notices that it was unlawful to do more than +ten miles an hour were posted up, but the General did not pay strict +attention to them till he came near shady places, where experience +warned him that policemen might be lying privily in ambush. The pace +was quickened till the waggon seemed to fly through the air rather +than move over the ground. It was the perfection of travelling on +wheels--almost as buoyant as a headlong gallop. The waggon weighed but +180 lb., the powerful animals "scarcely felt it more than their tails." +I had a turn at the reins by "kind permission" of the General. The art +of driving trotters needs practice. You must keep a strong, steady +pull on the head, or they "break." Very soon I had the satisfaction +of making the chestnuts break the law with a vengeance, and of hearing +the General say, "We are just within the three minutes! not ten seconds +inside it!"--that is, of trotting at the rate of just twenty miles an +hour. Up hill and down hill, and along the flat out of the Park and +over the smooth road, and in half an hour the Pacific was in sight, and +the murmurs of the surf rose above the rhythm of the regular beat of +the eight hoofs in front of us! Cliff House was in view. Seal Rocks, +in their setting of foam, lay before us, and in forty minutes from the +time we left the hotel, despite policemen, miles of bad pavements, and +tramways, we drew up at the steps of Cliff House, nine miles from San +Francisco, and the trotters had not turned a hair. From the verandah +at the sea front of the hotel, we enjoyed for half an hour a spectacle +which is, as far as I know, unique. At the distance of 500 or 600 yards +from the beach at our feet there is a group of four very rugged rocks, +with serrated edges and tops, the sides broken here and there into +ledges and small platforms. They are too small to be called islands, +the largest being, as it seemed, not 100 yards wide. The slopes are +not, I think, so steep as they looked on the land side. On the two +largest of these rocks there were herds of sea-lions, so close that we +could see, through very poor opera-glasses, with the greatest ease, +their eyes, teeth, and whiskers, as they reposed or played with each +other. Some had clambered to the highest ledges, escalading the sides +by a series of painful-looking struggles with their flappers; others +were fast asleep in cosy nooks; some were tossing their heads about and +making believe to bite each other in sport; the younger ones were bent +on teasing their fathers and mothers by uncouth gambols. As they played +or moved they uttered cries between a bark and a roar; now and then the +noise was like that of a pack of hounds in full cry, and the effect of +the strange sound mingling with the tumult of the surf and the beat of +the waves was most singular and "eldrich." Those fresh from the sea +were shining black, but became lighter as they dried. The older ones +were not darker than cinnamon bears or unwashed sheep. As many of those +on the rocks had not long left the water the general effect of the +herd put one in mind of a gathering of enormous slugs on cabbages--not +a poetic simile, but a just one, I think. Occasionally a sea-lion, +hungry or bored by his companions, threw himself with a splash into the +wave, and it was interesting to watch the rapidity and actual grace of +his movements in the sea compared with his laborious efforts on the +land. One could see them quite clearly through the body of the heavy +billows; occasionally a bold one would glide close on shore and fish +in the edge of the surf, raising his head and shoulders clear above +the surface, and then diving out of sight. They were cruising about +in every direction. You remember the sea-lion at the Zoo, of which the +French attendant was so fond? Well, the creatures below and before us +were most of them double the size of that fellow, and several exceeded +the largest ox in size. The monsters are quite well known; one is named +Ben Butler, "because he is such a great beast." They were formerly +protected by law, but some one thought they killed too many fish, and +the law was repealed. They are safe all the same, for there is a law +against the discharge of firearms within 300 yards of an inhabited +dwelling; Cliff House throws its ægis over the sea-lions in that wise; +but the quantity of fish which must be devoured by these mountainous +phocæ (an they be so) daily would maintain a decently-sized city. The +hide furnishes the "sealskin" used to cover trunks, and the body yields +oil fat, and the tusks are close, white, and hard. These sea-lions +breed far away up north, and come with their young regularly every +year to the same resorts; but incessant war is waged upon them by the +sealers and whalers, so that the chances are against the beast where he +is not protected by law, and their numbers do not increase. Altogether, +the spectacle was one never to be forgotten. A hotel, with oysters +awaiting us for a forebreakfast refection in the background, waggons +from Michigan, horses from Kentucky, all the apparatus of civilised +life close at hand, the Pacific and its strange wild denizens at our +feet! "Let us turn in and have an oyster." "What! oysters in June?" +"Yes, and good ones too." In this favoured land oysters are in season +all the year round. There are no oysters found on the coast, I am told, +and they will not breed. They are brought all the way from the Atlantic +coast when they are mere oysterlets, and they are laid down in the +Pacific, where they grow fat and large, but are not "crossed in love," +and therefore are fit to be eaten from January to January. They are +about the size of a spring chicken, and need some courage on the part +of an assailant who desires to dispose of them as he would a native. + +This was our last day in the city of the Golden Gate, and the +photographers were masters of the situation; and there was much +_débris_ of sight-seeing to sweep up--visits to be made, shops to be +inspected, among which I must mention specially the Diamond Palace +of Colonel Andrews, one of the handsomest jeweller's "stores" in +the world, though it is not as large as the establishments of the +principal firms in London, Paris, Vienna, or as Tiffany's in New +York. The distinctive feature of the interior is the decoration of the +paintings of fair women, on the ceiling and the walls above the cases, +by necklaces, diadems, zones, and other feminine ornaments of real +diamonds, emeralds, rubies, and pearls. The pictures are the work of +an Italian artist of merit, and the general effect is very striking; +but I doubt whether it is a good way of inducing people to buy the +articles which bedeck the ideal beauties. At Bradley and Rulofson's +we saw photographs of many of our friends, and had one more proof of +the smallness of the world. Every one we knew seemed to have visited +San Francisco. There we all submitted to inevitable fate, and left our +negatives behind us, but the Duke was captured by a rival photographic +institution, and had a sitting all to himself. + +The aspect of a crowd in a large American city differs from that of +the passers-by in the street of an English town, most of all in the +appearance of such a large proportion of coloured people. Here it may +be said, however, that they are colourless, as the prevailing hue of +the foreign population is that of the Chinaman. In Canada the number +of negroes, or of persons of negro descent, of varying gradations of +colour, is remarkable, considering the circumstances, but they probably +may be accounted for by the emigration in the olden times of those +who were escaping from slavery, or who went with their masters and +employers into the Dominion. In the cities on the Lakes I was very +much struck by the persons of undoubted African descent who are to +be met with in the streets in great numbers; and in Chicago there is +a quarter nearly exclusively occupied by them--honest, industrious, +hard-working people seemingly, given to stand about at the street +corners, however, a good deal on Sundays, and cultivating a bright +attire, especially on the part of the ladies, whose bonnets and +shawls were things to wonder at. There are loafers amongst them, as +there are amongst their betters; but, taking them all in all, in the +Northern, Western, and Atlantic States, they are a decidedly useful +element in the population, easing the burden of labour to the white +man, and following many occupations, such as those of waiters, barbers, +bricklayers, and labourers in the less skilled sort of work, for which +it would be difficult to find American substitutes. One peculiarity, +which may be accounted for by some wiser person than myself, seems to +be their recklessness as to what they put on their heads. Whether it +is merely a compliance with the custom of the white man, which impels +them to cover the highly effective protection against sun and cold +which Nature has given them, or not; or whether it is that the canons +of taste in such matters have not yet settled down to those accepted +by people in civilised life in the Western world, the male negro has +the most extraordinary indifference as to the quality and shape of the +thing which he calls a hat or cap, and it would not be easy to find out +of the gutters of some Irish country town anything more dilapidated, +battered, and utterly incoherent than some of the hats which one may +see on the heads of people of colour, especially down South. Whatever +other virtues they may have, neatness is not amongst them; for, with +all their affectation of finery, their clothes are generally ill-kept, +their houses are unkempt, and, where they are cultivators of the soil, +the operations are performed in a slovenly manner. The traditions of +the old plantation have descended upon them, and influence them. + +On my way from Messrs. Donahue and Kelly, the bankers in Montgomery +Street--I believe the former of these gentlemen has had the +privilege of giving his name to steamers and cities, leastways +railway stations--I saw a party of sailors belonging to the United +States steamer "_Rodgers_," now about to proceed in search of the +"_Jeannette_," and I was much struck by their resemblance to our own +bluejackets in general "cut of the jib," dress, face, and figure. +They were in charge of a smart-looking officer, and had been paying a +farewell visit to the fruit and vegetable markets--one of the sights of +the city. They were in high good-humour, laughing and chatting loudly, +more than is the wont of Americans, and I could not but contrast +their fine physique with that of the soldiers we had seen at Sir Henry +Green's parade when General McDowell took us round the harbour. The +detachment at the Fort, consisting of infantry and artillerymen, and +squads of different regiments, had some weedy veterans in the ranks, +who had lost their setting up and did not look fit for much work; but +the sailors, probably a picked lot, were good all round. + +_À propos_ of Messrs. Donahue and Kelly, the number of wealthy +men in San Francisco of Irish origin or nationality is remarkable. +Millionaires with names of Milesian prefixes and terminations are +phenomenal. We had intended to return to the East Coast by way of Utah, +and to stay a day or two at Salt Lake City, but the railroad company +did not consider it expedient to give the party the facilities which +had been accorded in every other instance by the American authorities +to the Duke and his friends. To have gone round Salt Lake City would +have cost a couple of hundred pounds more for haulage, and we were +much more interested in seeing Leadville and Denver than the City of +the Mormons; the game was not thought to be worth the candle, and +it was resolved that we would go back as we came, in charge of the +representatives of the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fé Railroad Company. +It was only one item more in the long list of things we ought to have +seen if we could, and I can safely say that we had a large share of the +common experience of travellers in regard to the relations between the +possible and the impossible in the course of a journey in a strange +land, where there are for ever cropping up representations that "you +really ought not to leave without seeing" so and so. The evening of our +last day was passed in the society of General McDowell, Mr. Morgan, +the English Consul, Colonel Bee, and others, who had done so much to +make the visit to San Francisco all that could be desired, and whose +courtesy and kindness will ever be remembered by every one of us most +gratefully. Like Sir Charles Coldstream, we "had seen everything, +done everything," but, unlike him, had found there was plenty in it. +The street railway--most ingenious and successful, invaluable in a +hilly city like Lisbon--the Chinese Theatre, the Joss houses--shops, +eating-houses, opium dens of the Chinese quarter, the clubs, the +principal buildings, the streets, the shops, the markets, the harbour, +the suburbs, and country round about--all had been inspected, and +yet each day we were told that we were doing positive injustice to +ourselves and to the objects which were perforce neglected. In the +morning there was a levée in the hotel to bid the Duke good-bye and +see the party start on their return journey. At the very last moment a +gentleman came forward with a proposal to take us to the North Pole by +balloon, but there was not time to consider it in all its bearings and +the offer was declined with thanks. We started at 10 A.M., and the Duke +was attended to the boat and to the station across the water by a large +body of San Franciscans, who took leave ere the train started. The +gentlemen who were with us on the journey westwards attended the Duke +on his way towards the Eastern States. All day we travelled through +California--"the hot furnace"--which at first, however, proved to be +only very warm, and the coloured servants had constant supplies of iced +compounds to be drunk for the solace of the homeward bound, and had +laid in a stock of San Franciscan luxuries to soothe the way. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +CALIFORNIA TO COLORADO. + + Los Angeles--Mud-geysers--"Billy the Kid"--General + Fremont--Manitou, the Garden of the Gods--Desperadoes--Bob + Ingersoll--Denver City--Leadville--Grand Cañon. + + +_June 12th._--The train stopped at Los Angeles at six in the morning, +and, drawing up my window-blind, the first person I saw on the platform +was our good friend Colonel Baker, who had come to meet us, intent +on the good offices which he could render during our stay. These were +exhibited in the form of a beautiful bouquet for Lady Green, baskets +of limes and oranges, and great bunches of grapes. In this happy valley +there are cares as in the rest of the world. The Colonel told us he was +in the midst of a great litigation affecting his claim to a large tract +of land in which there are said to exist the richest tin-mines in the +American Continent. Yet why should he care about his tin-mine? There +were rolling acres rich with corn and fruit, and there were flocks and +herds and vineyards, and a charming home of his own. Nevertheless, if +the want of that tin-mine made him at all unhappy, I am sure those who +were indebted to him, as we were, for so many kindnesses, will wish his +claim to be triumphantly asserted, and long possession of all that is +to follow. + +I dreaded the passage of the Desert to Yuma; and indeed the heat was +intense. No wonder that with the thermometer ranging from 100° to 104°, +all the blinds in the car were pulled down, and we sprawled listlessly +on the cushions. Our excellent attendants put forth all the resources +of art in the shape of ice and preparations of limes and cocktails; +but the temperature would not be baffled. We could just read, and were +aware that we were living, and some of us had strength enough now and +then to execute forays against flies with napkins to drive them out +of the carriages. How could people live out in the open, and work in +the mines, or pursue any out-of-door employment in such torrid heat? +Nevertheless, there was a marked distinction between it and the heat to +be endured with the mercury at an equal height in India. + +The speed of the train was very respectable--somewhat over twenty miles +an hour--and at that rate we ran from San Gorgonio and Banning on to +Cabazon, through a flat plain, dry and burnt up, very like the desert +around Suez, and fringed, like it, with rocky and rugged hills, save +that there was a great growth of Spanish bayonets and cactuses of all +kinds among the stones and sand, and that snow was to be seen on all +the hill-tops in the distance. For 107 miles there was no water to +be met with going along this plain; but the mirage, of which I have +spoken in the account of our journey to San Francisco, was frequent +and beautiful; and again I was fascinated by the sight of lovely lakes +embowered in trees, with stately cities on their shores, changing and +shifting and melting away, only again to assume apparent substance to +cheat the senses. + +Once the train stopped to allow the passengers to visit the +mud-geysers, which were not more than 150 yards on the left of the +line, and with commendable curiosity most of us got out and walked +over the baked earth to the spot. There was no mark whatever of smoke +or vapour to indicate the place; and it was almost startling to come +suddenly upon a kind of pond of semi-liquid mud, fifty or sixty feet +in diameter, on which huge bubbles, varying in size from an orange to +a hogshead, were continually forming and bursting. There was a faint +sulphurous smell, and the ground around the liquefied portion of the +surface, where the bubbles were breaking, was hot and cracked. The +conductor said that all attempts to reach the bottom of the holes +through which the bubbles arose had failed. Two of these geysers +were in active operation, and the plain away to the left of the rail +was said to contain a great number of them. After all it was very +unsatisfactory to see this ebullition going on without being able to +account for it; and, generally, I think we thought less of each other +and of our information after visiting them, and finding out that not +one of us had any theory on the subject which would bear either fire or +water. + +I do not think I ever saw a sunset more beautiful than that which +marked the close of this day--certainly not in India or South Africa, +nor on the prairie, for which they make claims of surpassing beauty in +the matter of sunsets. As it died out, I felt that "thing of beauty" +could not "be a joy for ever," for it was a combination of colour and +of form, including sky and mountain, that it would be impossible to see +again. + +The kindness of which we have had so many proofs, has followed, +accompanied, and preceded us all unremittingly and unweariedly. A +rough with some Bourbon on board mounted to-day the steps of the +car at a station, and insisted on seeing "this Duke." When he was +told that the object of his attention was engaged, he said, "This +is a land of liberty (as in his case it was), and he doesn't want a +bodyguard with him!" But the conductor sent him away about his business +without trouble. On the platform at Benson a few miners asked "the +Duke to come out and show himself." The people at the stations were +generally satisfied with a quiet peep; now and then an enthusiastic +Scotchman claimed a shake hands, which was always accorded to him. A +sleeper placed across the rails (accounted for by the officers on the +hypothesis that some loafer without a ticket had been turned off by the +conductor, and had put the sleeper in the way of the train to wreak +his vengeance--a thing which has occurred nearer home) was the only +substantial danger to which we were here exposed. + +The heat (June 13th) was intense. The thermometer rose to 105 at one +o'clock in the day, and it was little comfort to us to be told that at +Deming it had been up to 110 the day before. + +For some days we have been supping full of horrors, indeed +breakfasting and dining on them, for the papers contain accounts of +the extraordinary homicides all about this region. Tucson, Benson, +Wilcox--all these places were resounding with the exploits of "Billy +the Kid." Now at Tucson there is, I believe, a man whose name was once +amongst the very foremost in the United States. Who some twenty years +and more ago had not heard of General Fremont, "the Pathfinder," the +adventurous traveller, the energetic politician, the dashing soldier? +He had gone at the outbreak of the war to take up the chief command +in the west with all the pomp and circumstance of glorious war. I was +somewhat astonished to find that he was at Tucson, the governor of the +Territory, on a humble salary, apparently the world-forgetting and +the world-forgot, while "Billy-the-Kid" was perpetrating numberless +atrocities under his nose, and Mr. Pat Garrett was dressing up his +loins with his revolver-belt, and about to go forth with a chosen band +of citizens and seek the redoubtable William.[A] + +A person who has only seen settled States in Europe, or the Eastern +States of the North American Continent, cannot form any notion of a +territory which has become a centre of attraction to all the wild +adventurers and daring spirits which society, in the process of +formation, throws out as a sort of advanced guard. In Arizona, in +1870, according to the American Almanac, out of a total population +of 9658, 2729 could not write and 2690 could not read. Of the total +population, 2491 were foreign born, and 2753 were natives, the rest +being coloured or under ten years of age. In New Mexico, out of 91,000 +people, 48,000 over ten years of age could not read, and 51,000 whites +over ten years of age could not write. It may be inferred from such +figures what is the general condition of the labouring classes in these +States and Territories. The inhabitants of these States have doubled +in the last ten years. They are filling up at a rate inconceivably +great--so great, indeed, that American newspapers are fairly bewildered +and American statesmen appalled by the rush across the Rocky Mountains +and down the rivers, although as yet but a small proportion of the +immense stream of immigrants has flooded the outlying territories. "At +this rate," exclaims a Western editor, "the old monarchies of Europe +will soon be depopulated." When Mr. Lincoln, in 1861, addressed his +inaugural to the expectant States he expressed his confident belief +that there were children then born who would live to see the flag of +the Union floating over no less than 100,000,000 of human beings. The +recent census of the United States gives a return of 51,000,000 of +people, but the most eminent statisticians have arrived at the belief +that the progress and increase of the States will not be at the same +rapid rate as that which marked the history of the Republic since the +cessation of the great civil war. It may be fairly inferred, however, +that at the end of this century the population of the United States +will greatly exceed that of Russia, or that of any empire except +China and Great Britain, including Hindostan. The population, on +each period of ten years, has increased at an average of more than +30 per cent.; in fact, nearer 33 per cent., and the centre of it has +travelled westward at the rate of more than fifty miles every ten +years, till the centre of population is now eight miles west by south +from Cincinnati. In 1800 the Union extended over only 239,935 square +miles. Its flag now floats over 1,272,239 square miles of States and +over 1,800,000 square miles of Territory governed by the central power +at Washington. "We cannot think," exclaims a Republican writer, "that +the war of rebellion settled all our troubles and made us secure in +our Republic. This enormous growth of the practically unknown West +reveals to us the grave dangers that threaten our nation. We meet +there the tremendous influences of alien races and alien religions." +The Americans of New England and of the Eastern States do not feel +anxious on that score, because their institutions are thoroughly +founded, their character formed, and they trust to the great power of +accomplished facts to assimilate the alien elements and sustain the +fabric of the Republic. The bugbear of a great Chinese immigration +has ceased to practically influence Californian politics, and it may +be safely assumed that the bulk of the future immigrants from the +Celestial Empire will only come from the same sources as those which +have hitherto supplied the stream. No wonder, however, that thoughtful +Americans--and there are many who think of the future of their country +as something quite apart from dollars--are filled with grave anxieties +when they see such floods of purely foreign material, which will in +all probability exercise a preponderating influence over the politics +of the Great Republic, surging into the States. Particularly have the +home missionary clergy, as they are styled, been struck by the enormous +influence which this foreign immigration has exercised. According +to one authority, the Rev. Mr. Stimson, of Worcester, "it is not a +question of spreading any particular form of Christianity or of Church +government, but a momentous struggle of American institutions with +alien civilisations and religions for the control of the great Western +country. The problem is not a matter of cleaning door-yards, but of +saving a continent for freedom." The Chinese Question and the Indian +Question are, they think, as nothing compared with the Irish Question +and the German Question. "The Republic," we are told, "stands on a +foundation as broad as humanity itself," whatever that may mean, "but +its condition of existence is a universal regard for the interests of +all." Often during the course of the Duke of Sutherland's excursion +it was our good fortune to fall in with men of great political and +social knowledge. The future of the Republic is, in the mind of these +men, clouded with uncertainty and doubt. They are apprehensive of +some unknown danger. It may be corruption of political life leading +to want of faith in free institutions; it may be the rival energies +and the opposing interests which Washington foresaw as likely to array +the East against the West--the Atlantic States against the inland +States, and it is calculated by some sanguine people that before this +century is over there will be eighteen, or possibly twenty, States +admitted into the Union formed out of the Territories which are now +under the central Government at Washington. Upon such influences as +these alien immigration may be expected to act with prodigious power. +At a recent meeting in Springfield a clergyman gave as an illustration +of the absolute indifference of the foreign immigrants to Republican +institutions a conversation he had with a Norwegian minister in +Minneapolis. "There is nothing," said this gentleman, "in America which +we Norwegians regard as of value except your land and your money. We +do not want to learn English: we do not want to know the Americans +around us; we have certainly no notion of becoming Americans, but we +intend to remain as we are--Norwegians." The Mormons control Utah. They +boast that they will soon govern five of the most important territorial +regions beyond the Rockies. But if Utah becomes a State, as she hopes +to do, she will found a Mormon code of laws and institutions beyond the +power of the United States to control. New Mexico may be considered as +a Roman Catholic State under the control of an excellent archbishop. Of +course all prophecies may be falsified by events, but judging by the +eighty years which have elapsed of the present century, and from the +ratio of increase in that time in the United States, the most liberal +construction may be placed even upon the bounding estimates of American +politicians and statists. When we look to the Far West and see, for +instance, how Winnipeg has become the centre of a great network of +river navigation, 300 miles in one direction, 600 miles in another, +and that the Mackenzie River passes for 1200 miles through what is +declared to be the future wheat region of the world, we may easily +comprehend the anxiety with which the patriotic American is filled lest +the future of such a State should fall into hands antagonistic to the +principles in which his _beau idéal_ of government has been founded and +has prospered. + +_June 14._--At Lamy, a station named after the good archbishop of Santa +Fé, where we halted for a short time whilst the passengers of another +train were breakfasting, a citizen came up to me on the platform and +exclaimed, as if he were very much impressed by the news he was going +to give, "If you look in there, sir, you will see Bob Ingersoll at +breakfast!" I asked whether there was anything very remarkable about +the fact. "Well, sir," he said, "he is Colonel Ingersoll, of whom you +have heard. He is the most remarkable in-fidel in the United States, +and I really think he believes what he preaches. A good man to look at, +too, and, they say, first-rate in his family." I had a glance at the +believer in unbelief, and saw a very presentable-looking person, of +fine appearance and good features, busily engaged in making the most +of his time at one of the tables in the refreshment-room. He was the +observed of all observers, and appeared to like it; and I understood +from one of the crowd that he had just returned from inspecting some +mining ventures in which he was concerned; for, if he does not believe +in the world to come, he is credited with very strong faith in the +excellencies of the possession of wealth in the world that is. His +lectures are attended by crowded audiences, but, as an astute American +observed, "they won't come to much, for, after all, people who do +not believe anything can never get up a great enthusiasm. It is in +believing something that the populace has faith." + +Once more our eyes were rejoiced with the sight of the lovely plains +of Las Vegas, wide-spreading fields decked with flowers and dotted with +flocks, bordered with ranges of softly contoured mountains, the courses +of the water streams indicated by bright vegetation and by growth of +trees of many kinds. From Lamy (170 miles) there is a gradual rise to +Raton, which we reached at 6.30 in the evening. The appearance of the +region we traverse as the train approaches the Raton Pass presents +a strong contrast to the desolate country through which we have been +passing. From Raton the train was drawn by two engines in front and +shoved by one behind, and even then the pace was not very rapid, for +the ascent is very sharp. All the more could we enjoy a very glorious +sunset, as we slowly ascended the mountain. Then darkness came on +rapidly, and we slid down towards La Junta into the night, and were all +fast asleep long before we arrived there. In the very early morning, +on June 15th, some two hours after midnight, we halted for a time at +Pueblo. At 9 o'clock we had to leave our beloved Pullman and change the +cars, for we were to take a fresh point of departure, starting from +the Union Depôt upon the Denver and Rio Grande narrow-gauge railway +for Denver, 119 miles distant, and making an excursion on the way to +Manitou, to which we diverged from Colorado Springs: for to go within +reach of that famous resort and not to see it would have been a great +outrage on all the rules and regulations established for the observance +of travellers. Certes narrow-gauge railways need an apology. Their +_raison d'être_ is, at the best, that they are better than nothing. +"If you won't have us, you can have nothing else." And in such a +mountainous region as we were about to visit, the difficulties and +expense connected with a broad-gauge line would have been enormous, +if indeed it could be constructed at all. The narrow-gauge carriages, +with seats to match, with which we were made acquainted for the first +time, were of course much less commodious and comfortable than those +we had quitted, but far superior to those on the Indian lines of the +same gauge, and Indian engineers had been over to take a lesson from +the Americans for the use of their carriage-builders. Atchison, Topeka, +and Santa Fé Company and Denver and Rio Grande Company have been at +daggers drawn and pistols cocked--ay, and fired--and at battles waged, +in times gone by; and now our friends on the former line were, like +ourselves, the guests of the latter, which was represented by several +official gentlemen anxious to do the honours to the Duke. The scenery +becomes grander and wilder every mile as the special hurries on as +well as it can over the sinuous line, which is piercing a mountain +region savage and sterile, and climbing by the sides of ravines and +creeping upwards in rocky valleys with pine-clad hill-tops and frowning +cliffs above. The engineer who designed the line is a Scotchman named +McMurtrie--or at least of recent Scotch origin--and he seems to have a +special gift for such aspiring work, and a gradient-compelling genius +not to be baffled by altitudes. We were mounting towards the snows. +Range upon range of whitened summits and hoary ridges came in view, +all paying homage to the rugged crown of Pike's Peak, which can be +seen from points more than 140 miles away. The fleecy cloudland which +seemed to lie before us, as we looked away from Pueblo, was resolving +itself into savage alps. And in these passes, which the eye caught for +a moment, there might be El Dorados still undiscovered, for around us +were cities springing out of the desert. Here the enchanter's wand is +the explorer's pick, and no one could say where the precious ore might +not be awaiting its touch. We were coming to the Land of Promises. The +conversation of our new friends, among whom were some gentlemen of the +press, related mostly to mines, and one of them had, as we discovered, +a very certain investment at the disposal of the Duke, in the form of a +mining-claim, which was worth, at the lowest computation, twice as much +as he was willing to take for it. There was no reason to doubt his good +faith, but it was felt that it was a kind of fortune which ought not to +pass into the hands of strangers, and should be reserved for the people +of the country; and I am sure all of the party who had the pleasure of +the owner's acquaintance hope that he has "made his pile" out of it, +and has more than realised his expectations. + +Colorado Springs, forty-five miles from Pueblo, is nearly 6000 feet +above the level of the sea. The character of the line to it is best +described in the fact that the average grade per mile is 44·14, the +maximum curvature 6°. There are "no Springs" here, but the little town, +charmingly situated, is a halting-place much frequented in tourist-time +by travellers, and reputed to be healthful. There are some pleasant +houses visible from the station, at which we descended to take our +places in the carriages provided to take us to Manitou Springs, five +miles away. Mr. Palmer--if General, I beg his pardon--the President of +the Railroad, had important business to attend to, but he was so well +represented by Mr. Bell, the Vice-President, that no one regretted his +absence, and it cannot be said in his case _les absents ont toujours +tort_. He is reported to have made a very large fortune with much +ingenuity, and to have business talents which even in this country +excite admiration. Mr. Bell is an Irish gentleman, a member of the +medical profession, who has a delightful villa embowered in a garden +in the environs of Manitou, where the Duke and his friends found a +charming interior and an Irish-American welcome, and discovered that +strawberries and cream were almost as good in Colorado as in Covent +Garden. A quaint, odd place, Manitou--an American Martigny, with +Pike's Peak rising (14,300 feet above the sea) over it in the clear +sky, inspiring regret that we could not make the excursion to the +summit, which is rewarded, we were told, and I can believe, by one of +the grandest views in the world--the usual service of guides, horses, +and mules, and _calèches_--a naturalist's store with skins, minerals, +feathers, and stuffed "objects"--detached wooden houses and villas +in small plots of garden--a straggling street, and large hotels for +invalids. But there was the unusual feature of encampments here and +there by the roadside, and notices forbidding the pitching of tents +within certain limits which were explained by the fact that the high +reputation of the waters and air induces people to come from great +distances for the treatment of consumption, and diseases of throat and +lungs. Many of them find it cheaper to travel in horse waggons and +pitch their canvas dwellings when they wish to make a halt, than to +take up their quarters at hotels. Poor people! what pale, hectic cheeks +and wasted forms we saw; little groups picnicking by the sides of the +rivulets along the roads--each with a gnawing care--anxiety about some +dear one's health in the midst of them. Our driver, an intelligent, +chatty lad, was full of information, and we had to drive the prescribed +road by the wells out to the Ute Pass, a mountain-gorge wild enough--a +small _Tête Noire_--to points to which magniloquent names have been +given. + +It is not for want of what is called puffing that Americans neglect +the resorts of health of their own country, and in the States far and +wide the beauties and advantages of Manitou are blazoned forth on the +walls of hotels and in guide-books to all who can read. I may confess +now that, notwithstanding the magnificent altitude of Pike's Peak, and +the eccentric forms of the rocks in the "Garden of the Gods," I was +disappointed with Manitou. But then the visit was short, and the day +was hot, and the way was long and dusty, and haply it might be that +under different circumstances Manitou would deserve much warmer praise. +It possesses indeed an abundance of curious springs, said to be full +of health-giving properties; and in the course of our drive we halted +several times to partake of drinks from various springs, out of one of +which bubbled up very good soda-water, precisely like Schweppe's best +in taste and appearance. At the large hotel, which put one in mind of +the great establishments of the same sort in Switzerland, the water +served at table to the guests--a sort of pleasant Apollinaris-tasting +beverage--came from a natural fountain. + +The "cataract" nearly made us angry, and there was no regret felt when +the carriages returned to the hotel, where there was unwonted activity +and bustle, as the "Denver Zouaves" had just descended in a friendly +razzia on it, and were desolating the hearts and fireside resources of +Manitou. The consequences might have been serious, as it turned out, +to unoffending strangers. Those who needed it turned into the barber's +shop of the hotel to be shaved, and after some delay a coloured man +appeared, who began to try his hand on me. Fortunately it was not +'prentice, for it was very unsteady, and I became a little alarmed +for my cuticle. "It will be all right, mister," quoth the barber. "I +never cut any one. But I'm demoralised, dat's a fact, having to wait +on dem Denver Zouaves. Lor a messy on any enemy dey has! My nerve's +all gone to pieces wid their wantin' everting at once at the dinner!" +The hotel seemed far more clean and comfortable than the caravanserais +in the land of William Tell; but our stay was short, for we were put +under orders for a sight which has the most inappropriate name that +could be invented--a valley in which the most extraordinary-looking +columns carved out in a plateau by the agency of water, have been +left standing, detached and in groups, to which the visitor enters +through a cleft in a barrier of rock passing round the base of a pillar +of sandstone as high as a house. The "Garden of the Gods" contains +500 acres, and is surrounded by mountains and cliffs. The sandstone +pillars generally taper from the base upwards to a short distance from +the tops, which are flattened out or surmounted by slabs or blocks of +sandstone of fantastic outline, and they are called by names derived +from fancied likenesses to animals, birds, and men. The juxtaposition +of the most brilliantly hued, dazzling-red blocks and strata, with +masses of the same material of milky whiteness, gives the impression +that the scene is the work of human hands; it seems too quaint and +artificial for the hand of Nature, to which alone it is due; and the +vegetation and the trees are in keeping with the character of the +place. A trysting-place for geologists, and their happy hunting-ground, +no doubt. But why "the Garden of the Gods," I pray? + +From the valley or cup, emerging by another road, the driver took us to +a ravine-like recess, almost girt in by high wooded mountains, in which +Mr. (General?) Palmer is erecting a mansion of palatial importance--a +picturesque site surely--cliffs, forests, and mountain all around, and +in view one most singular sandstone pillar, named the Major Domo, 120 +feet high and only 30 feet round--a mountain stream brawling through +tangled brushwood glades--a garden. But the heat! That must prove a +terror by day to the inmates of Glen Eyrie Lodge or Castle--which, by +the by, was named, as one of us insisted, from a collection of rubbish +on a ledge in the face of one of the cliffs, which was, he maintained, +the nest of an eagle. It was now time to return to our train, and we +were not sorry to get back to Colorado Springs. + +From Colorado Springs to our destination at Denver there were still 75 +miles of rail, and the line continued to ascend till we reached Divide +(7186 feet), whence there was a gentle descent. There were sixteen +stations named on the time-table. We stopped at very few of them, +and travelled somewhat too fast to permit our placid enjoyment of the +scenery, austere and vast, which indeed deserved more attention than +could be given to it by passengers in a very lively train--endless +alps on alps, not sheeted with perpetual white, but rather flecked +with snowfields, which contrasted finely with the sombre pine-forests, +and the rich hues of the rocks, touched by the rays of the setting +sun, that, ere it slid behind the mountains, cast a rose-coloured +mantle on their summit. The evidences of a bustling city were not +wanting in the approaches to the capital of Colorado. There were tall +chimneys vomiting out smoke in the distance, and near at hand trains +of waggons were toiling over the dusty plain--still 5000 feet above +the sea-level--fast trotters and people on horseback, beer-gardens, +factories of all kinds, brick-kilns, and then a fringe of log houses +and wooden shanties, before the train stopped at the imposing and +substantial depot. + +It was a quarter-past eight, nearly dark, when we reached Denver, +and glad were we to get into the hall of the Windsor Hotel, which was +crowded with a mixed multitude--miners, and speculators, and traders, +and some travellers like ourselves--a very busy scene indeed. In the +hotel were all human comforts nearly; hot and cold baths, and good +rooms, and more appliances of civilised existence, for those who could +pay for them, than could be found in many hostelries of approved +reputation in venerable towns at home; moreover, exuberant offers +of help and information. One goes to bed laden with obligations and +heavy with the sense of favours which can never be repaid. There was +now a _soupçon_ of frost in the air, and notwithstanding the heat +which we had endured the greater part of the day, fires were not +ungrateful; and as we peered out of our windows over the roofs of the +wide-spread houses of the town, we could see the snow on the lofty +ranges of hills, watered by the South Platte River and Cherry Creek, +which surround the cup in which Denver has been built in obedience +to the impulses of the increasing population, which now numbers, I +believe, 38,000 souls. There was a bright glare from the gas-lighted +streets, sounds of music, and a tumult of life in the town which +would have been creditable to an ancient metropolis. In the morning +from the hotel windows appeared a beautiful and widespread panorama +of the hills we had seen the evening before, peak above peak, none +very densely covered perhaps, or presenting continuous snowfields, but +extending in billowy sweeps far away to the horizon, all capped with +snow, now bathed in a flood of fervent sunshine, the snow lighted up +by the peculiar crimson tints common in Alpine regions. There were +duties in the way of sight-seeing and exploration of no ordinary +nature to be done. First there were interviews and receptions, and the +inevitable drive through the place as soon as the ordeal of breakfast +was over; and ordeal in some sort it was for the strangers to file +in to the public room and take their places at their table, aware +that the morning papers had subjected them to exhaustive criticism, +which was being verified by those around us. The morning papers too +had given some topics for reflection, indications that in the newly +created capital of Colorado desperate men, overtaken by the march of +law and order, had refused to accept service, and were vindicating +their rights as wild western outcasts to take or part with life as +of yore, in reckless encounters and deliberate assassinations. There +were, perhaps, at that moment some hundreds, if not thousands, out of +the population of 37,000 or 38,000 of the city, who belonged to the +adventurous classes--sporting-men, betting-men, ring-men, bar-keepers, +hell-proprietors, and their satellites, and the scum of the saloons +attracted from the great cities of the States for hundreds of miles, +by the prey which miners with belts full of gold, half mad with drink, +and always fond of excitement, frequently are; and if to these be added +the dissolute loafers and broken-down mining speculators, the strength +of the army arrayed against the law may be estimated; and the wonder is +that among a population armed to the teeth there are not more cases of +such violent deeds as we were reading of at breakfast. To the stranger +there was no evidence of the existence of these disturbing elements, +unless the bearded and booted men with speculation in their eyes, +in the hotel passages and halls, belonged to the dangerous, as they +certainly did to the mining, classes. As to the resources of the city, +although for rapidity of growth its wonders may be eclipsed by those of +Leadville, Denver claims a very high place in the catalogue of these +marvellous fungi of civilisation, of which the Western States present +almost unique examples. There is everything that any one can want to be +had for money in the place, and much more than most people need. Paris +fashions and millinery are in vogue. There are fine shops, handsome +churches, a theatre, breweries, factories, banks, insurance offices. + +The principal street exhibits pretty young people, who would have +no occasion to fear comparison with the _beau monde_ in Eastern +or European capitals. The thoroughfares are crowded with vehicles, +and spruce carriages and well turned-out horses may be seen in the +favourite drive, that has been made over an indifferent road to the +base of the Rocky Mountains, which appear to be close at hand, though +they are thirteen miles away. But here and there in the well-dressed +crowd may be seen a Bohemian _pur sang_, or a miner in his every day +clothes, bent on a rig out and a good time of it. The streets, unpaved, +dusty, and rugged, are very wide, and bordered with trees, and the +houses generally are built of good red brick instead of wood; and +there are runnels of water like those one sees in Pretoria and other +Dutch towns in South Africa. The roads about the city leave much to be +desired; but Rome was not built in a day. + +There are many ready-made clothing establishments in the main streets, +and there is a heavy trade in tinned provisions. Through the Western +States, as in South Africa, the débris of provision-tins constitutes +a certain and considerable addition to the objects to be seen in the +vicinity of every house, and to the mounds of rubbish in the street of +every village. How indeed could the first-comers in such regions keep +body and soul together without the supplies in such a portable form +of the first necessaries of life? Having once run up a town in these +remote wastes, the inhabitants are still compelled to make a liberal +use of the same sort of food, and mines of tinned iron gradually +accumulate around them. + +Our first excursion was to the Argo Works, under very pleasant +auspices, for we had the wife of the Senator, who is one of the +principal partners, and Mrs. Pearce, whose husband is largely +interested in the works, taking charge of us. The works are at some +distance outside the town, but the lofty chimneys vomit out quite +sufficient vaporous fumes and smoke to blight the vegetation and to +give the people near at hand a taste of their quality. I am not going +to give a minute description, for more reasons than one, of what we saw +at the works; but it was a very interesting exhibition of the processes +by which the precious metals are extracted from the ores and delivered +to commerce. The Argo Works simply assay and reduce ores on commission, +but the business is on a very large scale. Immense piles, in fact small +mountains, of brown, cinnamon and earth coloured dust and rock were +heaped up in the sheds, to be brought to the furnaces and turned, when +divested of the lead, iron, copper, and gold, out in ingots of silver. +All the methods for the extraction of silver were shown to us, but +I committed a gross indiscretion when I asked, in my ignorance, "How +do you extract the gold?" "That," said the urbane gentleman who was +conducting us over the works, "we never permit strangers to see." So +there is more there than meets the eye. + +The business of assaying here must be profitable, and if the reputation +of any firm be once established there is a secure fortune for its +members. The miners flock to them, and they can dictate terms. The +extent of mining work in the country around may be inferred from the +numerous offices in connection with it in the city. As a specimen +of what Messrs. Bush and Tabor of our hotel give their guests for +dinner, let me offer you this _menu_ of the 5.30 ordinary to-day +(June 16). Soup, beef à l'Anglaise; fish, boiled trout, anchovy sauce; +corned beef, leg of mutton, sirloin beef, chickens with giblet sauce, +fricassee à la Toulouse, veal, kidneys sautés aux croûtons, rice, +croquettes, baked pork and beans, saddle of antelope, currant jelly, +lamb, tongue, chicken salad, spiced salmon; innumerable "relishes" and +vegetables, baked rice pudding, strawberry pie, apricot pie, jelly, +blancmange, vanilla ice cream, macaroons, pound cake, fruit, Swiss +cheese, nuts, coffee, &c. The wines were not cheap: champagne 16_s._ a +bottle, St. Julien 6_s._, Leoville 14_s._, sherry 8_s._, brandy 14_s._ +per bottle. Orders for "drinks" at the bar after dinner were much more +general than orders for wine at dinner. + +Denver, in spite of its mineral wealth, is very poor, however, in +that of which the want would make life, even in America, intolerable. +The supply of drinking-water is scanty and bad, and last year there +was nearly a water famine. The _cartes_ in the hotel announced "Water +used in this room is boiled and filtered." But great efforts have been +made to furnish the inhabitants with a store, constant and adequate, +of the precious fluid, and we saw very considerable works, the +property of an Irish gentleman, erected before the town attained its +present dimensions, which were to be supplemented by a new enterprise +respecting which we heard much. Perhaps no town of equal size in an +equal length of time has ever had so much money and money's worth +flowing in and through it as Denver since the Colorado mines were +worked. It is asserted that the trade of the town for 1881 will exceed +8,000,000_l._ Colorado in 1879 yielded ores to the value of more than +3,750,000_l._ The output in the present year will exceed that of 1880. +In that year $35,417,517 worth of gold and $20,183,889 of silver (more +than 11,000,000_l._) was deposited in the United States Mint and Assay +Office. There is, besides, vast wealth in flocks and herds, and Denver +is the place where the people resort from Colorado for purposes of +trade and pleasure; altogether an astounding place, with a future quite +dazzling to think of, unless the mines give in, and even then Colorado +cannot again be poor; its climate and scenery will always attract +travellers, and its capacity for feeding sheep and cattle will secure +its population. "And as to the beetle?" Why, no one would have anything +to say to it. Nothing was known of it. There might be such things in +other States. "And the name?" Probably it was a red-coloured bug, and +got the name Colorado just as the river, or tobacco, was called, from +the hue of it. At all events the bug did not belong to the State. + +The interest which the progress of Colorado and the condition of +society in the State excite was exemplified by the appearance in +Denver of a party of Hungarian noblemen, whose names gave occasion +for stumbling to the journalists who copied them out of the Hotel +Register--Count Andrassy and others, who were travelling under the +guidance of Dr. Rudolf Meyer, of Vienna. Although the air of Denver +is so much bepraised, it happens that most of our party felt rather +overcome at the end of our excursion through the town and the visit +to the smelting works, and one of the Hungarians was confined to his +room. However, they sallied out before dinner, and a gloomy prophet +of evil remarked, "If these strangers should have a difficulty, I +consider they'll hev only theirselves to blame. Some citizens don't +like strangers comin' in and starin' at them, and they're apt to be +awkward in their tempers in the afternoon." Knowing no danger, and +fearing none, they went off, and were a long time absent. Meantime we +were preparing for the road, as we were bound for Leadville, the city +of the "biggest boom" of mining times--"the Silver El Dorado," as the +guide-book, with a magnificent "bull," describes it. Our Hungarian +friends returned to the hotel ere we left. They were filled with +enthusiasm, and with a good deal also of curiosity in regard to the +shootings of which they had heard so much, and were following in our +track next day, and so we parted _sans adieux_. How the love of gold +has filled these lone valleys with desperate men! "They are a rough +lot, sure enough," said the landlord, "but lynching keeps them down; +and it is much better than hanging according to law, to my mind. It +certainly is cheaper." "How is it cheaper?" "Why," said he, "when a man +is prosecuted, or when he is tried before the judges, the law expenses +are heavy, and they fall on the county. When a man is lynched there is +only the expense of the rope, and a little loss of time for the boys +who do the job." From Denver to Pueblo and from Pueblo to Leadville +the line is on the narrow-gauge principle, and our train, which left +at seven o'clock in the evening, seemed to be driven on no principle at +all; for, anxious to astonish a Duke perhaps, or Britishers generally, +the driver did what certainly could not be called his level best to +send us along up and down a very rough line, and round the sharpest +curves, at the rate of forty miles an hour, so that when we turned +in, our rest, if rest at all it were, was exceedingly broken, and +we trundled about in our berths as if we were in a ship in a pretty +heavy sea. Still this narrow-gauge was the only line which could be +made through such a country as we were traversing. Peeps out of the +window ever and anon revealed, high up amongst the stars, rugged +mountain-tops, and for ever there came the sound of rushing water, +near or remote, as the train "bounded" on its course. I do not know +what stations we passed on our way, but the night was very long, and +I greeted with pleasure the first gleam of light above the hill-tops. +The Arkansas River was on our left, and at dawn we had glimpses of +its turbid stream running madly in deep gorges far below us. At the +South Arkansas station the train halted soon after daybreak, and then +we diverged from the main line, and a light train took us over the +Arkansas River by a fine bridge on its way up the Gunnison Extension +to visit the highest mountain-pass traversed by a railway in the +world. South Arkansas station is 217 miles from Denver, and is 6944 +feet--and Marshall Pass (25 miles away), to which we were bound, is +10,760 feet--above sea-level. There were grades of 211 and curves of +24° on the way, and the railroad twisted in and out among the ravines +like an iron Alexandrine, for ever ascending till we had passed the +limits of forest life. There were stations at short intervals--Poncha +Springs, Mears, Silver Creek--from each other. From the stations there +is a good deal of cross-country traffic, and at one place we saw three +stages laden with men and women--or rather, to be polite and accurate, +let me say with women and ladies--starting, one with six horses, and +the other two with four each. These were bound for Gunnison, and as +we were halting for a little, the Duke and some others got out of the +train, and sauntered up towards the wooden shanties which formed "the +town," consisting of the usual array of saloons and drinking places. +However, our course was cut short by the information vouchsafed by one +of the officials, that it might be as well not to go up, as there had +been a big shooting match that morning, and that one man was killed +and four had been wounded, "and some of them were on the drink yet." +From 4.30 A.M. to 6.45 A.M. we struggled up towards the pass till +the line came to an end near the summit, and we were rewarded by some +very fine views, exceedingly like those of the Mont Cenis Railway or +the Sömmering. The hills on both sides of the line were stippled and +flaked with snow, but there was no extensive field, so far as the eye +could see, nor was there any appearance whatever of a glacier, the tops +generally being clear of snow, which only lodged in the ravines and +hollows. Strange it was in these alpine heights to hear the clang of +Italian tongues; but most of the navvies were from Italy, and if not +quite so strong as English or Americans, they were in more favour with +contractors, because they did more work, owing to their steadiness and +sobriety. The line was being pushed on at an astonishing rate, and one +man was pointed out to us who had laid four and a half miles of railway +in one day, "the biggest thing of the kind ever done." Our enjoyment +of the scenery was very much diminished by our animal appetites, +stimulated by the sharp mountain air, which craved incessantly for +food. But not even a cup of coffee was to be had until we got back to +the South Arkansas station, late in the morning, where an excellent +breakfast awaited us. Here we were detained some time by a derailment +of an engine in front. + +From South Arkansas station to Leadville (61 miles) the railroad is +still more aspiring. The higher we ascend the less striking are the +scenic effects, but the grades are not very severe till we come to +Malta, where it reaches 130; from Hilliers to Leadville the maximum is +176, the curves being often 15°. The general character of the country +may be conceived from these figures, but no words can convey any idea +of the wholesale destruction of timber which has marked the progress +of the explorers and prospectors. Where the axe was weary the blaze +and the fire were called in, and hundreds of miles of forest are laid +in blackened ruin. At last we are on a level with the hill-tops. +There, on the hill-tops and in the valleys of a sterile region in +front of you, amidst those tall chimneys vomiting out smoke and steam, +is a wilderness of wooden huts, "the Great Carbonate Camp"--where we +leave the train--spread out over an undulating plateau, broken into +mound-like hills and sharp hillocks--bustling streets filled with the +most remarkable swarm of all nations that ever settled on any one spot +in the world. The story of Leadville reads like a chapter out of some +book of Oriental fable. It is a huge barrack of wooden houses, with +some solid and important buildings, with masses of tree-stumps cropping +up in the centre of the main thoroughfares, pitched over an undulating, +rugged, dusty ledge. In the midst of blocks of houses sprout up the +chimneys of furnaces and mining works, the clang of machinery fills +the air, which is thick with clouds of dust. It was a few years ago an +utterly wild, lifeless waste amidst the mountains covered with forests, +when three brothers, named Gallagher, exploring from California, were +led by some genius, good or bad, to test the material of the rocks in +the ravine. They struck gold ore, and silver too, and they set up a +claim; and presently they sold their shares in the land which they had +appropriated, for 40,000_l._, which they divided. Two used their wealth +wisely, and made more of it, and, taking to themselves the members of +the family, throve exceedingly; one, not so wise, if he were quite as +good, did not prosper as well as his brothers. But the scene of their +operations was soon swarming with enterprising miners. There was a +mighty "boom." Now there is a city! Leadville is, I think, the most +astonishing city on earth, but I am not by any means inclined to say +that it is a place I should like to be astonished about for more than +a few hours. + +The party drove to the Morning Star, said to be the best mine in +Leadville; and the Duke, Lady Green, Sir Henry Green, and others, went +down the mine in miners' clothes or cloaks. Two others, whose names I +shall not give, remained above, and had, I fancy, the best of the time. +Afterwards we visited Grant's Smelting Works, and then back to the +Clarence Hotel and dined, strolling out afterwards through the town and +visiting the billiard saloons, the Grand Central Theatre, and finally, +where we were told Leadville life was to be seen in all its glory, the +faro and the kino tables, which, however, were doing but very little +business, as it was not until after midnight that play in the town +generally commenced. Instead of sleeping at the hotel, we resolved +to take refuge in the train, which was drawn up at the siding; and we +had to drive in order to reach it, as it was considered unsafe to walk +through the streets in the dark. + +We started at four o'clock next morning, June 18th, and on arriving +at Arkansas Station learned that an engine was off the line in front +of us. Breakdown gangs were sent for, and all the locomotive talent +amongst our passengers repaired quickly to the scene. As it was not +easy to lift the engine, the engineers adopted the expedient of laying +a temporary rail to turn its flank so as to enable us to pass round +it, which we did after a delay of about an hour. The Duke got out and +sat on the cow-catcher by way of a change. But the interest we took in +the scenery was somewhat diminished by the intelligence that the delay +caused by the engine would prevent our enjoying the "soda bath" we had +been promised at Cañon City, and the sight of the State Prison, where +murderers were to be paraded by the dozen. About twenty miles north +of the Grand Cañon, the gorges through which the river runs became +wider and deeper. All that has been written about the Grand Cañon +utterly fails to convey an adequate idea of its exceeding grandeur +and wildness. The rocks--closing in so that the spectator in the car, +looking forward, thinks the progress of the train must be arrested, +and that it is not possible for it to get out of the _cul de sac_ which +appears in front, rising aloft for upwards of two thousand five hundred +feet on each side--are coloured with the brightest hues, and present an +infinite variety of form. The impetuous current of the Arkansas River, +contracted at times to the breadth of some twenty or thirty yards, +and penned into a space in which the waters boil and toss as if about +to leap on and submerge the passing cars, roars wildly down below on +our right at a depth varying as the line rises and falls. But it is +at the Bridge--a triumph of engineering skill--that the horrors of +the pass culminate. The sides of the ravine approach so near that the +daring engineer was enabled to execute the idea of lowering from above +a [**triangle]-shaped frame or trestle of iron; and, the ends catching +on each side of the gorge, permitted him to work on it for the +construction of the iron platform over which the train is carried at a +height of some hundreds of feet right over the maddened river. You can +look down through the interstices of the girders and glance shudderingly +at the hell of waters below--a sight and sensation never to be +forgotten. The ravine gradually expands and the cliffs recede as the +line strikes eastwards; and though the scenery retains a wild and +savage character for many miles farther, the impressions of the Grand +Cañon caused us to regard it with comparative indifference. We heard +many tales of the great railway war which was waged for the possession +of the pass, of which traces still remained in the ruins of posts of +vantage and observation, and the works of the defeated railroad +visible on the other side of the ravine. At night we reached Pueblo +and took up our quarters in our own cars, and continued our journey, +after some delay, towards Kansas City. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +KANSAS TO ST. LOUIS. + + Liquor Law--Kansas Academy of Science--An Incident of Travel--A + Parting Symposium--Life in the Cars--St. Louis to New York. + + +_June 19th._--Still on the rolling prairies; in the country of +compulsory abstinence--the paradise of Sir Wilfred Lawson. At 9.30 +A.M. the train stopped at Newton, 431 miles from Pueblo, and 281 from +Kansas. + +Here a phenomenon--there was a man by the road side who walked with +unsteady step, whose legs tottered, and who lurched violently as he +came down the road at that early hour. "He is a sick man," observed +one of my friends in the train; "that gentleman has been taking +_medicine_." In the Kansas Act there is a clause enabling physicians, +in case of need, to order stimulants for the patients without penalty; +but I am told the doctors have generally refused to act upon that +permission, so I suppose our friend had been consulting an unlicensed +practitioner. + +It would be ill done, when I am anxious to acknowledge the pleasure +and profit which I derived from my passage through the State, if I +did not record the satisfaction with which I perused a volume of the +"Transactions of the Kansas Academy of Science," which by accident I +picked up at one of the stations. The very name speaks trumpet-tongued +for the progress which has been made in this wild region. The year +before last, the twelfth annual meeting of the Academy was held in +Topeka, and I find amongst the list of papers read such subjects +as these:--The Kansas Lepidoptera; Kansas Minerals; the Mounds of +Southern Kansas; Recent additions to Kansas Plants; Kansas Botany; +Kansas Meteorites; Phonetic representations of Indian Language; +Sinkholes; Elementary Sounds of Language; Mound-builders; On Recent +Indian Discoveries. And among the lecturers there was Professor B. +F. Mudge, who died last year, whose name probably is known to a very +limited number of scientific men outside the University of Kansas. +Generally the papers contributed by the gentlemen of the State attest +industry and attainments which make their praise of the Professor +particularly valuable. It is curious enough to pick up in a railway +carriage, traversing such a scene of comparative wildness and vast +uninhabited plains in Western Kansas, an exceedingly interesting +examination of the Helmholtz theories of sight. The object of the +lecturer would scarcely be suspected by the reader. We had already +been struck by the extraordinary absence of signalmen, or of any +of the complex apparatus of men and machinery which may be seen in +Europe, and notably in England, to report the progress of trains +on the lines. Collisions, however, occur in America where these +precautions are not taken, and the lecturer attributed a good deal of +these accidents to colour-blindness, which appears to have attracted +considerable attention in the United States. Surgeons, pilots, &c., +are tested for colour, and in the army colour-blindness disqualifies +the recruit for employment in the signal corps. Altogether the papers +give an impression that in this new State there are diligent students +of natural history and physics, and profound inquirers into all the +phenomena of life. There was a reverse to the medal. + +At a station where the train halted beyond Pueblo, a card was handed +to me by one of the stewards. "The gentleman is, as he seemed very +pressing, outside; but I told him you were engaged." I started +as I read the name and address on the card, as well I might. They +indicated that an old friend whom I had left in a condition of great +bodily weakness and infirmity in London, was close at hand in this +remote region--a wonderful if welcome fly in amber. I ran out of the +drawing-room into the next car, and there saw a man, agitated and +travel-worn, whom I had never, to the best of my belief, seen in my +life before. His story was told, if not soon, at least in time to +let me partly understand the situation ere the train moved off. The +stranger had been in the service of the gentleman whose card he sent in +to me, but had left it to better himself in America, and had gone out +as valet to an American of good position at Colorado Springs. He found, +however, according to his own account, that he was expected to do +things not required of a valet in his own country, such as lumbering, +wood-cutting, and the like, and so he had thrown up his situation +and was going back to England. He had had quite enough of Colorado +Springs. "I was not there above a month, and I was shot at twice," he +said. "Once because I made some remark in a bar-room, where a chap was +abusing Englishmen; and another time while I was speaking in the street +to a man a fellow had a grudge against. He fired at him across the +road, and the ball whistled within a hair's-breadth of my head." He had +arrived at Pueblo some time before our special, and as the morning was +warm, he walked into a bar near the platform, while the engine of his +train was watering, to get a glass of lemonade. As he was drinking it, +a man walked in and called for a glass of whisky, putting down, at the +same time, what seemed to be a bank note, on the counter. The boniface +said, "I haven't got change for this twenty-dollar bill--perhaps this +gentleman can oblige you." The unsuspecting Briton, who had put the +money for his passage to Liverpool in a purse, drew it out to change +the note, and the strange customer at once seized it from his hand, +and rushed off towards the street with his booty. The Britisher ran +after him, but checked his wild career when he saw, within an inch of +his head, the muzzle of a revolver which the robber had drawn, and the +fellow vanished. "Won't you help me to stop the thief; you see what has +happened?" exclaimed the victim turning to the barman. "I guess there +was no money in that purse, sir. And if there was, perhaps you had no +more right to it than he had." Then the Briton dashed off after Don +Guzman, shouting "police," and was at once accosted by an officer of +the Pueblo force. He hurriedly stated the facts. The policeman smiled. +"I think you won't see that pile agin," he remarked; "and if you +don't look sharp ye'll miss yer train, that's a fact!" The man had his +railway ticket all right, a few dollars in his pocket, and I told him +I would see him and get him a passage, if I found on inquiry his story +was true. My companions thought the tale suspicious--but I believe it +was true, and I subsequently franked the man to England. + +Now here we had an exemplification of the manners and customs of +the district. Such an act of violence and robbery might occur in +London--anywhere. But what of the apathy, or perhaps complicity, of the +bar man? And if it or they be considered not altogether abnormal, is +the conduct of the policeman to be accepted as quite consistent with +the discharge of a policeman's duty? Well, whilst I was pondering on +these things, there came to me the best possible adviser--a judge in +this Israel--our excellent Palinurus, Mr. White. He threw a new, if not +a side light on the subject. "Depend on it he is a confidence man. The +trains are full of them! Our conductors have express orders about the +rascals." And he explained that a confidence man is a swindler--very +often an Englishman, who makes it his business to look out for unwary +strangers, on whom he imposes with some tale of distress, or some +recital of imaginary misfortune and adventure. As the man I had seen +was coming on in the train in our wake, Mr. White promised to talk with +the conductor, and find out, if he could, the truth about the Pueblo +robbery. Before dusk a telegram was forwarded by him to me from the +station where he left us, to say that the conductor had no doubt the +man was robbed, but that it was partly his own fault, and to warn me to +be cautious in my dealings with him. + +We have now been travelling straight on end for 1160 miles, with only +two engineers and two firemen and one engine, a feat of endurance +which has greatly exercised the Duke of Sutherland, who, as a practical +director of the London and North-Western Railway, has knowledge of such +matters, and who contrasts the performance with the experience he has +on the home lines, where engines, engineers, and firemen would have +been relieved or laid up over and over again. The head engineer of the +line, who joined us, Mr. Hackney, formerly of Congleton, had become +accustomed to these journeyings and endurances, which were brought to +the front in our conversation by the engine-driver appearing at the +door of the carriage to claim a dollar which he had won from the Duke +in a bet that he could not do the distance without laying up the engine +for repairs. + +All the long Sabbath-day we travelled on through the prairie, catching +glimpses now and then of wooden villages, around which trees were +beginning to sprout up, and of the little churches with knots of carts, +waggons, horses, and buggies outside, and people waiting for the end +of the sermon. Now and then, perhaps at intervals of fifteen miles or +so, are places of larger importance, such as Emporia, a rising city on +the plains, where many steeples pointed aloft indicated considerable +diversity of creed. An authority, not always to be relied upon, stated +that there are fourteen churches belonging to the town. + +There was a parting symposium in the second Pullman ere we reached +Topeka. Mr. White, Major Anderson, General Brown, Mr. Jerome, and +my much wandering compatriot, a veritable Irish Ulysses, raised the +tuneful melodies of the "Golden Slipper," the "Little Brown Jug," and +the other tender psalmodies which had whiled away so many hours, for +the last time in our society, and the little gages which were but the +outward and visible signs of the regard we felt for our friends were +exchanged with honest effusion. There may be--nay, there are--many +jealousies and causes of estrangement between the people of the Old +Country and of the New, but between the individuals of both there is a +_camaraderie_ which cannot, I believe, be found between Englishmen and +the natives of any country except America. + +"Good bye! God bless you! Be sure if ever you come to England you shall +have a hearty welcome from me." "And from me!" "And me!" "And me!" The +engine bell tolled, and we moved slowly on. + +And we were left all alone! The pleasant companions of so many weeks +had gone! I wonder if they missed us as much as we missed them? + +While travelling across the Rockies and the desert to San Francisco +and back, our course of life was pretty uniform, and one day followed +another with almost perfect resemblance in the mode of existence and +in all things except the scenery and the country through which we +were passing. First, in the early morning came one of the attendants +to our bedside with a cup of coffee, and then the curtains of the +little cubicle were thrown aside and you looked out on either plain, +or mountain, or river, or col; and on the faces of early risers at +doors or windows as the train passed through some rising town. At one +end of the saloon there was a bath-room, and from the tank there was +always to be obtained sufficient water for the purpose of an early +dip, which was enjoyed as occasion offered in turn by the party. Then +a cigarette. Then we dropped in as people do at a country house, into +the sitting-room, and exchanged ideas as to the progress made during +the night, and the stoppages, wondered where we were, and had a little +conversation with the conductor or Arthur as to the place where we +could stop or get the papers--and so got over the morning till 9 +o'clock, when breakfast was announced, consisting of fish, poultry, +meat, fruit (I had nearly said flowers, for there was always a bouquet +on the table), tea, coffee, and cold dishes, with abundance of milk +and butter. Where the fish came from and how they were kept fresh was +matter of wonder, for the instances were very rare in which there was +any indication that it had not quite recently come out of the sea or +the river. The supply of ice was liberal and unfailing, and whenever +we stopped at any considerable station the whole disposable strength +of the attendants in the train was employed in grappling with large +blocks of it and stowing it away in the ice reservoir, in which were +the larder and the cellar for such wines as needed cooling, and for +the vegetables and meat, of which there were great stores constantly +laid in. Then after breakfast there was reading or sight-seeing, +investigating the line, examining the maps, receiving visits and +returning them in other parts of the train, till in the very hot days +it was necessary, after expelling the flies, which were troublesome on +occasion, to draw the dust-blinds and the curtains of the carriages, +to mitigate the fierceness of the sun. It was objected occasionally +that by this process we deprived ourselves of the opportunity of +what was called "seeing the country," but after all a glance now +and then is quite sufficient to reveal the general character of the +districts through which the train is running; and the most diligent and +painstaking observer cannot keep his eyes fixed steadily for a day on +the external aspects of the region through which he is travelling. I +should be sorry to declare that every one was wide awake all the time +of the forenoon and up to the period of lunch, which too often exceeded +on the side of many dishes, being, in fact, a mid-day dinner; but then +no one was obliged to eat more than he liked, or drink either. Then +came the longest stretch of the day, and at its close another banquet; +and as the sun declined and the temperature decreased, we could take +more pleasure in looking out at the fantastic forms of the vegetation +which clothed the arid rocks in the desert, or on the bright green +prairie, or on the towering mountains, waiting till the sun had set, +generally in a blaze of glory. There were, of course, interruptions and +variations as we halted at the more important places; disappointments +about letters which had been telegraphed for and which were expected +day after day, constituted also a matter of conversation and discourse. +There was an harmonium in the sitting-room of the palace car, but +no one had the art of playing it, although we had plenty of music of +another sort; for after dinner the gentlemen of the railroad party who +had not dined with us came in, and we were never tired of listening to +the songs, so original and amusing, which they gave with great spirit +and admirable time and tune, for it happened they all possessed good +voices, and the melodies with which the troops of coloured minstrels +have now rendered the world familiar were then new to us. + +During the whole of our tour the weather has been most favourable. +With the exception of the rainy days in Canada, and the cold and +rawness which characterised the time of our short visit to Richmond, +there was nothing worse to complain of than continual sunshine. Now +and then the temperature was a little too good to be pleasant when we +were traversing the beds of the dry seas in the desert in Colorado and +California, but that was something to look back upon with satisfaction, +because there was no time lost in keeping within doors owing to the +rain and storm or cold. "Within doors," however, is a phrase scarcely +applicable to our mode of life, as it would imply that we were in +stable habitations, whereas, as will have been seen by those who +have accompanied us so far, we "lived and moved, and had our being" +in railway carriages; a mode of life rendered so comfortable by all +appliances, that it was sometimes no relief to be told that we would +have to pass the night at an hotel. + +For nine days and nine nights in succession, on one occasion, we never +slept out of the carriages or got out of the train except to take a +stroll about the station, or a peep into the street of a small town +whilst we were waiting, and one got quite accustomed to that nomad and +yet civilised mode of existence, where at every halting-place we were +supplied with the latest intelligence by the local papers, and made +the recipients of some attention or courtesy, visits and compliments +(the remarks of the other sort not being many), bouquets of flowers, +presents of fruit, and plenty of conversation. But that my critics +might say I dilate too much upon the material enjoyment of life, I +would describe at length the means which were supplied in the course +of these long journeys for animal enjoyment. Never could there be found +more attentive and obliging domestics than the coloured men who waited +upon us--Arthur and his fellows. There lived in the kitchen compartment +of the train, at the end of one of the saloons, a coloured cook, +very intelligent and gossipy, full of quaint conceits and dishes and +conversation, who commenced life as a slave on a Southern plantation, +probably adopted for indoor purposes on account of his smartness. He +liberated himself in the course of the war, and marched off with a +regiment of Federals in the capacity of cook and body-servant to one +of the officers, wherein he saw a great amount of very hard fighting +at very close quarters. This adventurous modern Othello was wont to +discourse with much animation when he came out for a breath of fresh +air on the platform and could find anybody to talk to him, although +he could move no more tender heart than that of Sir Henry Green. The +gentlemen of the Atchison, &c., Railway, when travelling with us, had +a _cordon bleu_ in the saloon--an Italian or Frenchman, I think, or +at all events a French-speaking man, who had served also, and would +have done credit to an establishment where faults in a _chef_ would +not lightly be condoned. In the interchange of courtesies, Mr. White +and his friends invited our party now and then to dine in the saloon, +which was not "across the way," but up a little, on the line, being the +saloon in front of us. + +But here we are at Kansas City once again! At 5.30 P.M. the train +arrived at the platform, which was gay with a Sunday crowd, of +whom many were negresses--black, brown, brindled, and yellow +_citoyennes_--in much variety of colour and garmenting. Unlike Samson, +their weakness is in their hair, and like Achilles, they are vulnerable +about the heels (to the arrows of an æsthetical criticism, which +accepts the Greek idea of beauty in form); but they seemed to enjoy +life amazingly, and not to be in need of beaux; perhaps the happiest +people in the world now that their chattel days are over. It was late +when we turned into our berths, for it was a lovely night and the +fire-flies exercised a great attraction over us, but at last the charm +was worn out and we slept till morning without a break. + +_June 20th._--Still the same boundless plain. In vain does one look for +the grass fields with close, even, carpet-like surface to be seen in +Europe. We are still passing through exceedingly rich land--the fields +covered with flocks of sheep and herds of good-looking cattle. There +are more trees by the stream-side, and shrubs growing in the hollows. +Habitations are more frequent, and so are fencing and planting. As the +sun was setting we approached St. Louis. There were some park-like +glades, and vistas opening up to pleasant mansions, amid grounds +showing marks of culture. There had been a severe thunderstorm the +night before, and the St. Louis Station had still traces of its effects +in pools of mud. But the rain had cooled the air, and the people were +rejoicing exceedingly in the great improvement that had taken place +in the weather, for, they told us, men and women had been dropping +down with the heat a few days ago as though they had been struck by +musketry. + +The appearance of the St. Louis Terminus gave one a high idea of the +importance of this city. Eight trains were waiting on their respective +lines to start with passengers to all parts of the Union; and by +the simple device of placing at the end of each train a large board +announcing its destination and the time of its departure, much anxiety +was saved to intending passengers, not to speak of the irritation of +officials avoided by this simple expedient. The journey was continued +by the Indianopolis and Vandalia, and by what is called the "Pa'handle" +line to the Pennsylvania Railroad on to Philadelphia. The train was +timed on Tuesday so that we were able to see the famous passage over +the Alleghany Mountains from Conemaugh to Altoona. For nearly eleven +miles we were carried without steam, and with the brakes on, through +very fine scenery, down the mountain-side, but the summit was crossed +in the darkness of a tunnel 1200 yards long. There are some striking +engineering feats in the way of curves and gradients, and the trace +of the line is very bold all the way down to Altoona, where the +Pennsylvania Railroad engine and machinery shops are established--the +centre of a population of some 17,000 souls, where twenty years ago +"there were," as a friend said, "only bears, deer, woodpeckers, and +skallywags." The Duke, Mr. Stephen, and our railway experts got out +and visited the workshops, and came back very much pleased at the +discovery of several London and North-Western men in good positions +in the Pennsylvania Railroad Company's service, who welcomed their +old directors with effusion, and that there was nothing visible there +for Crewe to copy, unless perhaps cast-iron wheels. The speed at +which we travelled was a sensible proof that we were once more on the +line of our old friends of Pennsylvania. From Altoona to Harrisburg, +132 miles, we rattled along in two hours and forty-three minutes. On +another stretch of the line we travelled eighty-three miles in one +hour and forty-two seconds, including stoppages; and the rapid motion +was very agreeable, as there was a perceptible increase of temperature +after we reached the plains and approached the beautiful valley of the +Susquehannah--a scene of industry, prosperity, and peace. Fortunately +there was a good light on the river, and we had a fine view of the +country all the way to Harrisburg under the rays of the setting sun. +A little farther on we were gratified by the appearance of General +Roberts at a station on the way, where he was awaiting the Duke to +congratulate him on his safe return from the Western expedition, and we +bade him farewell at his own house, with many sincere and well-deserved +acknowledgments of great and constant kindness. Then over the river by +the noble bridge, and on to Philadelphia. We did not visit Pittsburg, +which was vomiting out masses of smoke, nor did we halt this time at +the capital of the Quaker State. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +NEW YORK--NEWPORT--DEPARTURE. + + Coney Island--Newport--Bass-fishing--Habit of + Spitting--Brighton Beach--Newport--Coaching--Extra + Ecclesiam--Victories of American Horses--Newport + Avenues--Return to New York--Our last day in America. + + +The special train was detained by the immense amount of traffic on the +line, as we approached New York, and we did not reach Brooklyn till a +little before 11 P.M. on June 21, so that it was past midnight when we +ascended the steps of the Windsor Hotel, which we had selected by way +of a change, and found to be every way commendable, with the exception +of its distance from the busy parts of the city. The following day +was devoted to letter reading and writing, receiving visitors, and +various attempts "to go out," which were not generally successful, for +New York was palpitating with the intense heat. The "heated term" was +in full vigour, but it was now quite temperate in comparison to the +excesses which had marked its advent some time before our arrival. In +the evening we got up strength and courage enough to go to Wallack's +Theatre, a very pretty, well-constructed house, and saw "The World" +excellently acted and admirably put on the stage. Next day, June +23rd, in virtue of a solemn league and covenant with Uncle Sam and +Mr. Hurlbut, the Duke and I devoted ourselves to fresh fields and +pastures new, and ordered ourselves accordingly for Coney Island. A +long bank of sand by the sea-shore has, by an accident, become one of +the most crowded resorts in the world, and to-day there were races in +the new ground. It was not, as we found, so easy to get there. Having +the advantage of two experienced guides, our party of four managed to +break up into two and to miss each other; one taking the boat at one +iron pier, and the other embarking by a different mode of conveyance. +But as we were bound to see Coney Island, the Race course being a +secondary object, our temporary separation did not prove a source of +great annoyance. + +The early settlers would indeed have been astonished if they could +look round and see what they have brought the quiet place to in these +later days. They were Quakers persecuted by the good Christians of New +England, who were driven out of Boston as ruthlessly as though they +had been malignants and papists of the worst sort. They settled the +township of Gravesend about 250 years ago, and amongst the conspicuous +settlers occurs the title and name of Lady Deborah Moody, of whom this +deponent knows nothing, but wonders how, with such a title, she managed +to have influence amongst a Society of Friends. + +A ship was built, so the Americans say, of 70 tons in 1699, by the +descendants of the Quaker settlers, and less than 100 years later +the bold republicans, abandoning the doctrines of peace, engaged +and captured an English corvette off the island. It was all along of +General How, who landed his troops here and set the people to work on +the fortifications he threw up, whether they would or no. A corvette, +bound to Halifax, anchored off the island, and an old whaler, who, +says the chronicler, must have been smarting under the wrongs he had +suffered at the hands of the red-coats, or who possibly regarded the +work as he would the capture of a finner or a bottle-nose, imparted +to a few trusty friends the idea of "cutting her out." So embarking at +night in a couple of boats, they stole down with muffled oars and ran +up under the stern of the ship. There was no watch, and through the +cabin windows the officers could be seen playing cards. The crews of +the boats boarded the corvette simultaneously, seized, overpowered, and +bound the officers and men, lowered them into their boats, and, having +set the man-of-war on fire, pulled over to the Jersey shore with their +prisoners. It is to be hoped that the demeanour and language of the +captain have been misrepresented by local tradition; but he is said +to have cried bitterly, and to have exclaimed, "To be surprised and +captured by two blooming egg-shells is too blasted bad!" + +There was a long period of neglect before Fashion and the populace +found out the attractions of Coney Island. Fishermen, oyster-catchers, +and sportsmen visited the sandy beach from time to time; then after +a while a few houses were run up of a very inferior class, and these +were frequented by the very worst of the scum of New York, so that it +was almost dangerous, and certainly disgusting, to go among them, while +the scenes on the beach, to which the present proceedings afford such +a contrast, were described as being of the most disgraceful character. + +The official directions for spending a day at Coney Island certainly +indicate a belief in the possession of enormous physical energy and +indefatigable curiosity on the part of the visitors in those who +compose the code. Having given you sailing instructions by the iron +steam boat to Bay Ridge for the Sea Beach Railway (ticket 35 cents), +you are to visit the Sea View Palace Hotel, the Piazza, the two iron +piers, the _Camera obscura_ (10 cents), the Great Milking Cow, the +top of the observatory (15 cents); then to eat a Rhode Island clam +bake (50 cents), visit the aquarium (10 cents), take a park waggon and +ride over the Concourse to Brighton; see the hotel grounds and bathing +pavilion there; then take the Marine Railway (5 cents) to Manhattan +Beach; visit the Oriental Hotel and take the Marine Railway to Point +Breeze (10 cents) and return back to Brighton Beach Pavilion and take +a bath; then see the Museum of Living Wonders (10 cents), dine at the +Hotel Brighton, hear a concert in the evening, and return to New York +by 11 o'clock. "This trip," observes the compiler, "may fatigue one, +but the excitement soon overcomes the trouble." Coney Island is indeed +an institution. + +Along the sea front of the bank for some three or four miles there +has been constructed an esplanade lined with seats, and defended from +the sea by a stone wall. Outside there is a belt of shingle on which +the surf breaks, but not violently, unless in bad weather. Large +bathing establishments, with every appliance, are placed at convenient +intervals along the shore. Here in the season tens of thousands of +people may be seen, all properly and decently attired, disporting in +the waves. At the time of our visit, the hour and the season of the +year seemed not to be favourable to the indulgence. We were too late +in the day. It is an early place, and from 7 till 9 A.M. from the +month of June to the end of September are described as the orthodox +periods. Nevertheless the spectacle was quite unique, and if you can +imagine Brighton with half-a-dozen Pavilions blown out to twice their +size, and the largest hotels multiplied by ten in length, breadth, and +depth, you may fancy what the Coney Island front is, provided always +that you can also conjure up (literally) myriads of well-dressed men, +women, and children perambulating the esplanade or sitting in the +grounds around the various establishments which occupy a large space +inland--pavilions, hotels, exhibitions, restaurants, and club-houses. +There were fireworks going on in broad day; but these were principally +for the purpose of exhibiting very ingenious Japanese figures, which +were discharged from bombs, and which gradually descending were objects +of eager competition amongst the younger members of the enormous +multitude. And with all so much good-humour, so much propriety of +demeanour; none of the brutal rushes of "roughs" which disgust one +with English popular assemblages--none of the brutal horse-play, and +screams, and unmeaning cries of the 'Arrys and the Bills of our popular +resorts. + +Looking at Mr. Marshall's excellent book on the United States, which +we found to be copious and accurate, I was struck by what he says +respecting a habit of the people which, according to my experience, +has very much decreased since I was last in the States, but which +he finds in as full force, and repulsive as ever. I am bound to say +I think the habit of spitting has very much diminished, but from +numerous evidences, from the presence of spittoons in every room and +in the passages of the hotels, and from public admonitions, such as +one we saw at some of the theatres, that the audience would not spit +upon the stage, I must believe that it still exists. What the cause +of this habit may be it is not easy to determine. It cannot be in the +race, because it is scarcely an "English" habit. I would be inclined +to attribute it to the drinking of iced water, but ladies in America +use the national beverage quite as freely as the men, and spitting is a +masculine failing. Can it be a result of climate? Scarcely. For in the +States, British-born people do not seem to be affected by the influence +of the habit in those around them after many years' residence. Smokers +and non-smokers alike indulge in the practice, so that tobacco cannot +be charged with the disagreeable custom. I assume that it is as common +as Mr. Marshall asserts it is, but I am bound to say, according to +my own observation and experience on my last visit, that there was no +evidence to show that it was common or national. Chewing tobacco also +appears to me to have fewer votaries than formerly. A remark to that +effect at Richmond brought upon me something like a rebuke from the +gentleman to whom I spoke, a Judge of the land. "No, sir," he said, +"not at all! I rather think we chew more than ever!" And, to illustrate +his faith, he produced a silver box, shaped a plug of no doubt very +excellent weed, and thrust it into his mouth. I do not recollect, +however, meeting a gentleman in the course of our journey who used +tobacco in that way, with that exception. + +In the grounds in front of the pavilion, where an excellent orchestra +of some one hundred performers were playing, sat a very large and +appreciative audience, who applauded with discrimination, and were +content with the good performance of each piece. + +Our common rendezvous was the Surf Club, one of the numerous convivial +associations for which Coney Island seems to be specially adapted; +and I presume the name had nothing at all to do with any supposed +amusements of the members in connection with the surf on the beach +outside. There was some difficulty in finding our way through a +labyrinth of rooms all filled with guests: with corridors swarming +with people; with vast halls, where at hundreds of tables there were +seated people engaged in the consumption of the _menu_ of a Coney +Island restaurant, abounding in strange dishes and attended by armies +of waiters. At a rough guess, I should say there may have been about +4000 people in the building--and this was but one of several--I think +the Brighton Beach Hotel, but of this I am not quite sure. + +When the Prospect Park and Coney Island Railroad was opened none +believed in its success, but the foresight of the projector was +justified; and when it was found that respectable people would go +there, if the vagabonds of both sexes and their associates were driven +away, the police asserted themselves, and swept off the gamblers and +the others of a still more dangerous class, who were to be found there +in increasing numbers every year; and then hotels were erected and +landing-places made for the steamers; and now the electric light blazes +in a hundred halls, and music and rejoicing sound late into the night, +contending with the noise of the surf upon the beach. Bowling-alleys, +shooting-grounds, archery, croquet, sailing and rowing, all invite some +of the visitors, according to their tastes. An amusing exemplification +of the ingenuity of American advertisers is afforded by the sailing +vessels, which display in enormous characters on their main-sails +the names of quack medicines, from which no corner of this continent +appears to be safe. + +On June 24th the party, which had been somewhat dislocated, reunited +their scattered forces, and at 2 P.M. started by train after a little +repose, for Newport, R.I. It was a kind of holiday after our travels, +but somewhat out of place, for we were told the Ocean House was +scarcely ready; but we should not have found it out, had we not been +informed of the fact. The newspapers had been on the alert, and soon +after the Duke's arrival visitors began to call and invitations to pour +in--some well-nigh irresistible, for they included opportunities for +experiences of bass-fishing. + +_June 25th._--Newport has not yet put on its festive attire. It is +not the season, and we ought not to be here. Nevertheless it is still +so pleasant, and so respectably dull, that one enjoys it amazingly. +After breakfast we walked down to the seashore and sat gazing on +vacancy, and on three yellow ladies collecting clams. Returning thence +in a very hot sun, ran to earth in the hotel where, presently, there +were many visitors; and how kind and anxious to please they were! Mr. +Fearing drove up later on the top of a drag, and whirled us away to +a charming fishing-box on the shore, in order to judge for ourselves +what bass-fishing was like. It was a very pretty drive, and Mr. Fearing +handled his "four" as if he were bent on joining the Coaching Club--not +indiscreetly, as the horses were not accustomed to going together, but +with satisfactory decision--and we all were landed without mishap by +the side of the road, close to one of the best-organised sporting-boxes +I have ever seen, built entirely for the comfort and delectation of +Mr. Fearing and two or three friends who own the bass-fishing stands, +at the end of one of which a gentleman was then busily engaged in his +pastime, for the sea comes rolling up upon the rocks within some forty +or fifty yards of the sward of the green meadows on which the house +is placed. From it projects into the breakers a platform supported +on iron pillars, at the end of which there is an enlargement of the +structure to enable the fisherman and his attendants to stand at their +ease--the one in hurling the bait and the other in preparing it. And +first, as a proof that the labour is not futile, there was exhibited a +terrible-headed monster with great scales, which had been caught that +morning by Mr. Whipple--a bass of 57 lbs. weight, of which I think the +skull and jaws and gills must have weighed a third. The fishing is not, +as I found, to be done at once, but needs a little practice. The art of +casting consists in the double operation of jerking the bait from the +top of a stiff rod, and checking the run of the line without permitting +it to overrun, which it is very apt to do in an inexperienced hand, by +a pressure of the thumb on the reel, just sufficient to let the weight +of the bait carry out the hook to the farthest stretch of the jerk. +The rod, not more than eight or nine feet long, a work of great art, +and costly, is furnished with a reel, also very expensive, containing a +couple of hundred yards of prepared line. At the end is a large single +hook, sometimes secured to a piece of piano-wire, as the "blue fish" +will cut through the strongest cord or gut. To this is fixed a junk of +fat oily fish, of which supplies are kept in a basket close at hand, +to be cut up for ever and ever by the attendant, and ever and anon +pieces are chucked into the sea, and being of a very unctuous nature, +the oil rising to the top, floats away on the surface of the water, and +attracts the bass within measurable distance of the platform. Captain +Fearing threw, Mr. Whipple threw, and the gentlemen at the end of +another pier emulated them, and pounds, perhaps stones, of bait were +thrown into the sea, but the bass, which are capricious, like most +fish, were not to be caught; and so after a time we returned to the +cottage. + +I was, unfortunately, unable to accept an invitation from one of the +many hospitable gentlemen in Newport, to go out and spend the evening +on a desolate island, where they are said generally to have exceedingly +good sport, in order to get up before sunrise the following morning +and essay my skill, or want of it, in bass-fishing. Mr. Wright, an +enthusiastic sportsman, availed himself of a like invitation with +great pleasure and with many anticipations of delight, but on Monday +morning he returned weather-beaten back, and boot-less and bass-less +home, although he assured me he enjoyed himself very much, and had very +agreeable company out at sea on the rock. + +The following day (June 26th) was cloudy and cool, and all that was +of rank and fashion in Newport went to All Souls Church. There are +many churches in Newport, and in the height of the season, each is, +I am told, well filled on Sundays. And wonderful it is that there is +neither dissension nor controversy among the congregations. They mingle +together coming and going, affording to me, who have been accustomed at +times to observe the manners and customs of my country men and women +on like occasions in Ireland and elsewhere, ground for wonder, not +unintermingled with an ardent desire that we, nearer home, could learn +the secret of this moderation. + +Mr. Bridgman, our fellow-passenger in the "_Gallia_," is enjoying his +_villeggiatura_ with his wife and family in a pretty little cottage. +We were very much pleased indeed to renew our acquaintance with him, +although there was no scope for the display of his fine talents as a +salad-maker. It was not foggy enough for the ladies, who delight in a +thick and moist _brume_ from the Banks, and who sit at the open windows +when it comes on for the sake of their complexions, as it is esteemed +a sovereign cosmetic beyond Maydew or Kalydor. Whether it be rightly +credited with these virtues or not, I can answer for the presence of +many fair ladies in church, and on their way to and fro in the streets. +We dined with Mr. and Mrs. Keene, who reside in one of the best villas +of the many charming dwellings in Newport. + +The victories of the American horses in France and England created +an enthusiasm in the States almost as intense as though they had been +won by the national fleets or armies. From one end of the Union to the +other the news was flashed the same day, and we saw the names of the +conquerors in large letters in every newspaper. Unfortunately there +came at the same time reports of foul play to American competitors at +the hands of some English roughs, and there was a good deal of heat +caused by the objections taken to the entry of the "Cornell Crew" at +Henley. These international contests should be very carefully conducted +and judiciously worked, or they will do more harm than good, if indeed +they do any good at all. The injurious insinuations respecting the age +of Foxhall could but excite indignation in the minds of honourable men +against whom they were directed. + +There is a State House in the town, and there is also a mansion +occupied by Commodore Perry, but the most useful inhabitant of the +place appears to have been one Abraham Touro, a Jew, who gave his name +to the park, a cemetery, a synagogue, and a street. Altogether there +is rather an old-world air and look in the town; but one must go along +the Avenues to have an idea of the charms which lead so many of the +principal families of the Eastern States to make the place a resort +when they are not enjoying the delights of travel in Europe, or that +blissful existence which endears Paris to our Transatlantic relatives. +Bellevue Avenue is bordered by a number of very sprightly dwellings, +of every order and disorder of architecture, and rejoicing in all the +extraordinary richness and elaboration of American workmanship in wood, +each standing in a little park of its own, generally rich with trees, +shrubs, and an ornamental garden. Several of these interiors, as we +had reason to know, were furnished in the very best taste, and filled +with objects of art, excellent examples of good masters, principally +foreign, and articles imported from all the corners of the globe. Of +an afternoon the ladies might be seen driving, in very well turned-out +carriages, to some rendezvous where lawn-tennis or a picnic awaited +them; and altogether, even at this time of year, Newport presented a +picture of great refinement and comfort, which enable the visitor to +understand how attractive it must be in the height of the season, and +why it is Americans are so fond of life in Rhode Island. + +I am not in a position to throw the smallest doubt upon the statement +that the mass of stones in the form of a tower, ivy and moss covered, +and evidently the work of human hands, was not built by the hardy +Norsemen hundreds of years before the arrival of Columbus. There are, +moreover, people who declare that the erection is due to a British +governor of the colony, when it was more prosperous as a commercial +resort, though not so fashionable as it is at present. But American +antiquaries take a great pleasure in propping up the proofs which have +been adduced of Scandinavian enterprise and discovery on the continent, +many centuries before Vespuccius, Columbus, and the English navigators +lived. + +We dined on the evening of the 27th at the house of Mr. Shattock, +a gentleman of New York, who had assembled a party of very pleasant +people to meet the Duke, and kindly hastened his dinner-hour to suit +our convenience, as we were obliged to go on board the Fall River boat, +which called at 9.30 P.M. to take up passengers for the Empire City. +There was some difficulty about getting cabins or state rooms as they +are called, but "Uncle Sam," who came from New York to consort with us +quietly, applied himself diligently to telegraph wires, telephones, +and the like, and when the great steamer came alongside the wharf +our dormitories were ready. The night was calm and fine. There was an +excellent band, quite worthy of being called an orchestra, on board, +which played to the delight of a large audience till it was bed-time. +As a "sight" for a foreigner, nothing could be more striking than +the vast saloon, brilliantly illuminated, with hundreds of people on +sofas, chairs, and benches, reading or conversing in the intervals +of the music, and presenting infinite varieties of type and class, +yet all so orderly and well-behaved; and if you moved quietly through +the crowd, your ear caught many strange languages interpolating the +American speech--German, French, Polish, Russian, Italian, and, perhaps +the natives would say, British. There is some care observed in the +locking up of cabins, and I believe there are detectives and police on +board the boats; but it is said they do not look after the morals of +the passengers, and concern themselves only with vested interests in +portable property. There was no sea on, and the only motion was caused +by the beating of the paddles and the throbbing of the engine, and +early in the morning of the next day we were at our quarters in our +comfortable hotel in the Fifth Avenue. + +_June 29th._--And yet more excursions. Bound by a long-standing +engagement, a small detachment of our party set out this evening to +visit Mr. Barlow at his country place, Long Island, which travellers, +perhaps, have not much occasion to see. The Mayor of New York (Mr. +Grace) and Mr. O'Gorman were on the steamer which took the Duke, Mr. S. +Ward, Mr. Hurlbut, and our host down the Sound, and were introduced to +us by Mr. Barlow. The first-named gentleman I mentioned in one of the +early pages of this diary in connection with the vigorous efforts to +purify the civic atmosphere made by him on his accession to office. I +learn that he has since obtained a large measure of success, and let me +hope corresponding thanks from his fellow-citizens. Attacks on corrupt +influences are apt to receive lukewarm support from the politicians. +The power of the respectable classes, which hold aloof from politics, +is not large. Mr. Grace had more opposition than help from his own +countrymen, who have been long nearly omnipotent in New York, and who +monopolise a large proportion of the civic offices and employment. +Mr. O'Gorman, one of the traversers with O'Connell in the famous State +trials, is one of the leading lawyers of New York, and is held in much +respect by his fellow-citizens. The "old Country" is still dear to him, +but I seemed to gather from his remarks that he shared in the distrust +which American lawyers generally expressed respecting the principle of +the Land Bill then under discussion as far as interference with the law +of contract--"the very foundation of social life"--was involved. Glen +Cove is a beautiful place, standing high above the level of the sea, +and commanding charming views of the sound and of the opposite shore. +It is surrounded by trees, ornamented by woodland and fine natural +groves, broken up by ravines, through which trickle streams of water. +The mansion is furnished with every comfort and luxury, and we had a +garden to saunter about in the morning, and a genial hostess to talk +to, and her fair daughter to sing for us, so that it would have pleased +us well to have made a longer sojourn at Glen Cove. Here we passed two +very peaceful days, part of Wednesday and Thursday, and in a pleasant +drive with our host in the early morning had some slight outlook on +umbrageous Long Island. "_O! si angulus iste!_" It is 115 miles long +and 14 miles broad, and quite big enough for me! And there be deer +in the woods and trout in the rivers, and fish in all the creeks, +and game in the wooded lagoons, and forest, lake, and civilised life, +and many things to please the eye; and then the comet was so good as +to display his glories and his tail before Glen Cove. But our time +of departure from the States was drawing near, and there were still +things to be done in New York, and many engagements to be kept, ere we +started on our homeward journey on July 2nd; and at 12.35 on the 30th +June the Duke and I took the "cars" at a rural station, and reached +New York at 2.35, in time for a run through Tiffany's and some little +shopping and visiting. There was a dinner arranged by "Uncle Sam" at +"Sutherland's" in honour of the famous city restaurant. The house is +one of a type which has, I believe, disappeared in the "City," where +once flourished famous establishments such as Williams' Beef Shop +in the Old Bailey, Dolly's in Paternoster Row, the Billingsgate Fish +Ordinary, Jacquet's, &c., like it in character. Great New Yorkers do +not disdain to cross the threshold, within which they find admirable +fare and excellent wines--the national delights of clam chowder, clam +soup, soft-shell crabs, and many other Transatlantic delicacies--at +the far end of Broadway, still holding its own against the fashionable +restaurants. Of the party who dined there with Chancellor Robertson +and others in 1861, only "Uncle Sam," Mr. S. Barlow, and I survive; but +the host, a granitic sort of man, with a kindly Scottish heart warming +the case inside, seems capable of presiding over his feasts for another +generation. + +_July 1st._--It was difficult to realise the idea that this was our +last day in America, but the truth was forced on us by the practical +duties of getting the baggage ready and settling up generally, ending +with a dinner at the Turf Club, where we met Mr. Keene, of Foxhall +fame, who had also entertained us at Newport, Mr. Jerome, Mr. Stuart, +Mr. Travers, and other fathers of the New York sporting world, which +seems very like our own, and had to drink madeira of all but fabulous +antiquity and excellence. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +RETURN TO EUROPE. + + The "_City of Berlin_"--The Inman Line--The Service at Roche's + Point--Queenstown Discomforts--A sorry Welcome Home. + + +_July 2nd._[B]--Up at 5.30. The Duke, Lady Green, Sir Henry, Mr. +Wright, Edward, all engaged in the transport department, with Mr. +Trowbridge in observation; incessant activity. The Queen Anne coach +was in readiness at 7.30, and in half an hour more we were discharged +at the Inman wharf. There was a great flotilla--five large steamers +leaving at the same period for Liverpool, and there was the usual +throng at the landing-places of friends to bid "good-bye" to those who +were about to cross the Atlantic. The steamer we had selected belonged +to the Inman line, and whatever there may have been wanting to the eye +on board, compared to the trimness and paint of the Cunard steamers, +there was nothing to regret in our accommodation or service. There were +so many passengers that the dining-saloon, illuminated by the electric +light--which was also used for the purpose of lighting the engine-room +and the lamps in the corridors--would not contain them all at the same +time, and so there were two messes for dinner. Epergnes filled with the +most beautiful flowers were ranged in order, and a rampant war-steed +composed of white roses was displayed on the table. I am not about to +give a log-book, or to trespass on the patience of my readers by an +account of such an ordinary event as a passage home. The second day +after we left New York was the anniversary of Independence, July 4th, +and the day was duly celebrated by the citizens of the United States, +who constituted the large majority of our fellow-passengers. The "stars +and stripes" were hoisted at the main, and the cabin was draped with +British and American flags. But there was no speechifying, and the +spread-eagle was content with moderate flights; a recitation and a song +or two, and the fire of champagne corks, being the only indications of +an extraordinary festivity. + +About this time of the year the Atlantic, in the latitudes which +we traverse, is rather vexed of fogs; and if one be disposed to low +spirits, I know nothing which weighs upon him more than the sound of +the fog-horn. But what must it be for the captain, who is perforce +obliged to go at full speed, or as near to it as he can, with the +expectation every moment of some startled cry from the bow "Sail right +ahead!" Nor is it quite out of the running that an iceberg may be +taking a sail across his course. Fortunately we had no experiences of +the kind; and as night was falling on the 10th July land was in sight. + +The lights of the Fastnet were seen through drifting haze, and about 10 +o'clock at night the "_City of Berlin_" steamed through a rising sea, +with a strong beam wind, into the roadstead of Roche's Point, burned +her rockets, and laid-to for the steamer to take the mails, and those +passengers who had decided to land, on shore. + +It was blowing freshly, and rain fell heavily; and as we looked down +from the lighted decks on the murky water, and made out the tug as +she paddled up to us, rising and falling on the waves, we were seized +with reasonable misgivings as to the propriety of leaving our ship and +taking to such a craft. I am bound to say that our experience more than +amply justified them. + +I am writing these lines with a very faint hope that any amendment +will be introduced, in consequence of what I say, into the abominable +service between the American vessels off Roche's Point and Queenstown. +In fine weather and in daylight it is not of much consequence, perhaps, +what discomfort one may be exposed to in a short passage to the +shore; but to affront women and children with the misery which must be +experienced at night time and in bad weather, in the steamers employed +in the service, is little short of barbarous, if it be not indeed +altogether so. + +After I had got down upon the deck of the little steamer and surveyed +the scene around me, I thought that it would have been much wiser to +have gone on with my friends to Liverpool; but I had some engagements +in Ireland, and so had the experience I was glad not to share with +my fellow-passengers, on whom I should have liked the old country +to have made a favourable impression. There was the great steamer, +with hundreds of waving hands, and the sound of friendly voices +bidding us "God speed," a blaze of lights, and almost as steady as +the solid earth, as the horrible little tug puffed away, and, getting +from under her lee at once, encountered the swell. If she could have +ridden over the water below, she certainly could not escape that which +came down from above; so that we were all pretty wet and cross and +miserable in the half-hour which elapsed before we reached the shore. +Fortunately, there were not many passengers who availed themselves +of the opportunity; but the deck of the steamer was crowded by poor +people returning to their native country. Accommodation for the +cabin passengers, except seats on the wet and sloppy decks, there was +none. There was a little cabin, stuffy and comfortless, and moreover +occupied by a couple of women who had come out to see friends by way +of a pleasure excursion, and who were suffering the last extremities +of sea-sickness. The spray broke over the luggage and passengers; +it was in such circumstances that the custom-house officers began +their search. One of them, opening my bag, which was unlocked, found +a small revolver. It was unloaded, and there was no ammunition for +it; but, nevertheless, it was seized, for I was "importing arms into +a proclaimed district without licence." A similar mishap occurred to +a Spanish officer, who was not quite so easily appeased as I was by +the assurance that the arm would be given up on proper application +to the police. His revolver, he insisted, was part of his uniform, a +necessity of his existence, and the authorities might as well seize +his epaulettes or spurs. However, my deadly weapon was restored to me +some days afterwards, after a correspondence with the custom-house, +and I dare say the Hidalgo was equally fortunate. These were incidents +to denote that we were in the midst of trouble. There was but a sorry +welcome for us when we landed at Queenstown. Not a car to be found, +that I could see; but there were a few porters, and the agent of the +hotel at the pier; and, commending my luggage to his care, I walked to +the establishment. It surely cannot be quite an unaccustomed event for +a steamer to arrive at Queenstown at that time of night! The last train +for Cork had gone; and it might have been expected that lighted rooms +and some sort of preparation would have awaited the travellers; for +every vessel that touches at Queenstown, coming from America, surely +lands a few people needing rest and refreshment? A demoralised waiter, +who appeared to think that such a thing had never happened in the +whole course of his experience, as the inroad of ten or twelve people +asking for supper and bedrooms, informed us that nothing could be done +until the gentleman who represented the hotel at the landing-place had +arrived; and so we sat on the stairs for half an hour, and were then +shown into a gaunt room, dimly lighted by gas. There was nothing ready. +The hungry people, by dint of patience and perseverance, eventually +succeeded about midnight in obtaining some poor substitute for supper +and scrambled to their beds. + +I mention the circumstances in which my fellow-passengers and I were +landed at Queenstown, that those who are interested in promoting +the welfare of the port, and in making the route through Ireland +less thoroughly objectionable, may take steps to obviate the great +inconvenience to which travellers at present are certainly exposed. + +Next morning I reached Mallow. I was but a few hours in the +"distressful country," but I found that things had gone from bad to +worse while we were in the States. I heard from my fellow-travellers +in the train that "Boycotting" had attained such a pitch in the South, +that all the relations and conditions of social life were exposed +to peril, if not destruction. And still, with the usual cheerfulness +of Irish landlords, accustomed, as it were, to these excesses of the +popular will, my informants talked of hunting, fishing, and shooting; +and I heard full accounts of the state of the rivers, and of the take +of fish which had made some of them happy. The County Cork, indeed, +had nearly a parallel in the "wild West." But what a contrast between +the state of public feeling, in respect to the outrages which were +perpetrated in each, in the country we had left, and that to which +I had returned! In the United States there was no attempt to justify +the men who were guilty of such deeds. In Ireland it was impossible to +obtain evidence or to convict the offenders. I am not going to close +this narrative of our little excursion with a political disquisition, +indeed I have not the materials for forming any opinion respecting the +breadth and depth of what may be called the Irish national movement in +the United States; but there seems to be a general vague impression +in America that as the British Government was not very wise and +equitable in its dealings with the people of the thirteen colonies +in the reign of King George, it is, somehow or other, at the present +moment, treating with harshness and injustice the whole of the Irish +race in Ireland. It is impossible not to recognise the fact that the +head, perhaps the heart, and certainly the purse of this development of +Irish discontent are in the United States. The arms, the body, and the +legs are in Ireland. During the whole time of our visit, although we +visited towns where eminent orators were lecturing upon Irish subjects, +and where representatives of the League were in session, there was not +a trace brought home to us of the strong sympathy which undoubtedly +exists in many American cities with the movement in Ireland. There +were accounts of the meetings in the newspapers, and now and then a few +leading articles on the subject; but we might have concluded, from what +we saw and heard generally, that the Irish question was of far less +importance to the American people than the religious views of Colonel +Ingersoll, or the discussions between the railway companies respecting +their fares. The recital of wrongs, most of which have been long ago +redressed, still reaches the ear and touches the heart of the American +public, and if the Irish population had not in many ways provoked or +excited the antagonism of the native Americans in the towns, and of +the Teutonic element which exercises such a powerful influence in +the country, there would be far greater sympathy for the supposed +oppression of the Sister Island by England. The fact that emigrants +come from Europe is accepted as a proof that the countries which they +leave are ill-governed; and Americans, in dealing with the emigration +question, are apt to forget the existence and nature of the forces +which induced their own ancestors to seek homes in the New World. + +The _New York Times_ declared in an article last June, that there is no +essential difference between the two divisions of the Irish in America +and of the Irish in Ireland. The voyage across the Atlantic works no +transformation in Pat, and he is still as much an Irishman after his +plunge into an alien civilisation and taking out his papers as when +he stood on the old sod in Meath or Tipperary. "He cares no more for +the American eagle than for an owl; but a sprig of shamrock stirs him +to ecstasy. The name of Washington has no meaning for his ear; but +that of St. Patrick is a living and potent reality." That statement, +however, must be taken with qualification. There are to-day 90,000 +acres of land in Minnesota as thoroughly Irish as if they were planted +in the centre of Connaught. There are Pats and Pats. Many of the most +wealthy and prosperous merchants, bankers, and landowners whom we met +in the West were not merely of Irish extraction, but born Irishmen, +and the extraordinary spectacle of Irish millionaires who knew how to +keep their money, and to add to it, too, may be seen in San Francisco +and elsewhere in the West. Many, less fortunate, have high positions +either in the army, or as politicians, or in the estimation of all +that is great and good in America--such as Mr. O'Conor--men who have +held aloof from politics, and who could not be tempted, even by the +Presidentship, to enter the arena of party strife. One convicted rebel +of 1840 now occupies a leading place at the American bar. I heard him +denounce the Land Bill in terms he might have used in denouncing the +atrocities of the Saxon in his hot days when O'Connell was king. The +influence which has been acquired in many parts of the Union by the +Irish immigration and by the descendants of immigrants has naturally +excited at various times the opposition and indignation of the American +born, and it has always been more or less opposed by the Teutons of +different nationalities who occupy such a powerful position in all +the great States of the West. But "the Native Party" is now either +dead or sleeping. A very distinguished officer and politician said +to me that he had at one time been a most eager and ardent adherent +of the policy of the Native American Party, but that when he saw how +earnestly and devotedly the Irish had come forward in defence of the +Union, how brilliantly they had fought, and how recklessly they had +sacrificed their lives, in 1861, he felt constrained to abandon his +principles, and to admit their free right to all the privileges of +American citizenship. I could not, however, but recollect that General +Richard Taylor, in his most amusing, able, and graphic work on that +same war, from the Confederate side of the question, bore the strongest +testimony to the services of the Irish in the army which fought under +the banner of the Slave States. In New York and in San Francisco +the Irish element has exercised almost supreme control in municipal +matters, and it may be said, without offence I hope, that, whether +it be owing to the opposition they have encountered or to a radical +deficiency which may be Irish rather than Celtic, their management has +not conduced to the comfort of the cities or to the pecuniary purity +of the Executive. In San Francisco there is a strong anti-Irish press +and much anti-Irish feeling. The 'Argonaut' repudiates the thraldom of +the Irish associations and factions in the Far West as strenuously as +the 'Times' and 'Tribune' do in the East. But notwithstanding all that +may be written and done, it is impossible to resist the influence of +numbers under a system of suffrage so large as that which exists in +the greater number of the American States. It was curious to read in +a Californian paper an appeal to England to suppress Irish agitation. +"We confidently believe," says the _Argonaut_, "that the wisdom of +its public men, the healthful condition of its public opinion, and +the strength of its military power will be sufficient to crush out the +Land League movement, which is but incipient rebellion. That England +will deal justly, firmly, and successfully with this effort of united +ecclesiasticism and Communism is the earnest wish of every intelligent +and independent mind that believes in free government, the guarantees +of property, the rights, and the personal liberty of man." However, +there are American parties, if not statesmen, whose wishes are by no +means directed to such a consummation, and we must take note of the +fact. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +SOME GENERAL REFLECTIONS. + + Education--Free Schools--Influence of Money in + Politics--Corruption in Public Life--Crime on the Western + Borders--The Great Rebellion--Anniversaries--Great courtesy to + strangers--Manners and Customs. + + "Westward the course of Empire takes its way; + The four first acts already past, + A fifth shall close the drama with the day, + Time's noblest offspring is the last." + + +The "tar-water Bishop of Cloyne" would have been exceedingly astonished +could he have seen the first line of his prophecy or averment made to +do duty as a motto to Mr. Bancroft's History of the United States; but +surely if the prophecy be not realised, it will be the fault of the +agencies engaged in working it out--never in the history of mankind, +as we know it, have such advantages been enjoyed by any nation as have +been, and are, the appanage of the Americans of European origin in +the New World. They have leaped into the possession of their heritage +full armed, like Minerva from the brain of Jove. For them have all +the champions of human rights died or conquered, and the protagonists +of human struggles for liberty and light fought. For them Science has +trimmed her lamp--for them martyrs have died--for them Europe and Asia +have been in toil and travail for countless generations, and they have +been guided across the sea to a grand continent where it would seem as +if Nature had been engaged for myriads of ages to provide for their +happiness and grandeur--all climes and all products are theirs--the +bounteous plain, the ore-filled mountain, the treasures of the deep, +the heaven-made ways by lake and river, and it would be a despair for +all mankind if they misuse their glorious inheritance, and if all the +nations of the world see that the pillar of fire in the west was but +an _ignis fatuus_ dancing before their aching eyes in a Serbonian bog +of creeds and 'isms, of factions and faiths, all struggling towards +the gate of the Temple of Mammon. "Philosophers," in all the doubts and +fears which the condition of the Republic inspires at times, cling with +confidence to the palladium which is, they think, to be found in the +system of education based on the free schools of the States. If there +were not a distinction between knowledge and morality, they would be +justified; but the Evil One tempted us to eat of the fruit of the tree +which brought sin into the world, and if Americans are to be trusted +as authorities, the result of the largest and most liberal system of +education ever devised is not as happy in practice as it ought to be +according to theory. + +As the central Government extended its sway over the Territories there +was a uniform system, when assigning land for public objects to railway +companies, of retaining for the School Fund a portion of the land +in each Territory, as it was settled and admitted as such, under the +control of the central Government. In the States Constitutions creating +Sovereign States, there are provisions inserted, varying very little in +language and not at all in spirit, which render it compulsory on the +Legislature of each State to maintain public schools free to all the +children of the people residing within its borders. Another principle, +of universal application, provided that all schools under public +control should be free from sectarian or denominational teaching, in +the schools or in the books used for educational purposes. With such +safeguards for the extension of education, it is depressing to find +that, in certain districts at all events, crime and immorality prevail +in the United States as extensively as in the benighted kingdoms of the +Continent of Europe. But the most serious consideration in connection +with the system of common schools in America, is the fact that serious +doubts are intruding themselves respecting the success of it. In a +recent official report it was stated that whereas the children who +ought to go to school numbered about fourteen and a half millions, the +average attendance was not more than five millions. But, assuming that +all the children went to school, there are people who declare that the +education given under the National system is by no means satisfactory. +Mr. R. G. White affirms that the system is a failure; and high +authorities assert that "any comparison between the results obtained +in the public schools of New York, Cincinnati, and Boston, with those +of such public grammar schools of England, as Bedford, Manchester, and +the City of London, is simply ridiculous." The teachers are continually +shifting, and when the teachers, as they do in this land of liberty, +go away, the schools are deserted, the constant services of a staff +cannot be retained unless there is very considerable increase in the +rate of payment now made to the male and female teachers. None of these +in any State have, I think, more than about 9_l._ per month. Mr. White +says that "the mass of the pupils of the public schools are unable to +read intelligently, to spell correctly, to write legibly, to describe +the geography of their own country, or do anything that reasonably well +educated children do with ease; and they cannot write a simple letter, +they cannot do readily a simple sum in practical arithmetic, they +cannot tell the meaning of any but the commonest of words they read and +spell so ill. They can give rules glibly, they can recite from memory, +they have some dry knowledge of the various ologies and osophies, +they can, some of them, read a little French or German with very bad +accent; but, as to all real education, they are as helpless and as +barren as if they had never crossed the threshold of a schoolhouse." +It is from American writers that these accusations against the common +school system are to be gleaned. Some statisticians say that crime and +pauperism are increasing far more rapidly than population. The charge +on the State for punishing criminals and keeping paupers last year was +$20,000,000, or £4,000,000; but it is too much to attribute crime and +pauperism to the defects of the schools. It might with more reason be +argued that the teaching of the people in the schools tends to develop +the looseness and eccentricity of thought, where there is no religious +teaching, which are exemplified in the uprising of extraordinary sects +and strange philosophies; for America is the land of spiritualists, +mesmerism, soothsaying, and mystical congregations. Mr. Hepworth Dixon +may not be a perfectly unimpeachable authority on the subject of the +number of spiritualists in America; but there can be no question they +are to be counted by millions. It is averred that believers in spirits +generally believe in "special affinities which imply a spiritual +relation of the sexes higher and holier than that of marriage." It is +not wonderful then that there should be also a very large number of +divorces, especially in the New England States. Mr. Nutting says that +"in the history of nations there has never but thrice occurred such +a breaking up of the family tie as is now taking place, especially in +Rhode Island and Connecticut, among the people of New England blood." +Mormonism, although of American origin and early growth, has been +mainly successful by the constant importation of ignorant peasants from +Europe. + +There is a want of reverence on the part of children towards their +parents which is very striking. Americans who have admitted and +deplored this have sought to account for it by the school system, +wherein the State usurps the place of the parent, and teaches the young +idea to mock at any authority but that of the schoolmaster. It would be +lamentable to have to admit that free education is associated with the +weakening of parental influence. Theoretically, there is nothing in the +American system to prevent the teaching of religious and moral duties +by parents at home; but it would seem as if very little of that kind +of instruction was given by the busy fathers and anxious mothers of the +Republic, and that when the day's work is done at school, and some time +given to the preparation of the studies for the day to follow, there is +no further teaching. + +I do not think the rule "By their fruits shall ye know them" can be +applied to the public schools, in connection with the prevalence of +crime, immorality, unbelief, or eccentric religion. But it is certain +the system has not by any means secured that high level of general +education, or what education is supposed to bring with it, which its +friends claim for it in the States. There is reason to believe that +the standard of morality has not been uniformly high in the political +world, and that in the public intelligence the judiciary does not +aspire to an absolute immunity from suspicion. Even in the old settled +States, legislators from time to time may be found, who, seated among +the good and wise, excite admiration akin to that which is aroused by +the spectacle of a fly in amber. It has been observed by travellers +that whatever affection may exist in families, it does not attain that +keen sensibility and lasting power which is found in French domestic +life. + +When American newspapers of the greatest influence and circulation +write invectives against the corruption which prevails in places +high and low, when writers of great intelligence and known character +contribute similar articles to periodicals which possess the highest +position in the literary world of America, a stranger may be permitted +perhaps to say a few words respecting the impression produced upon +his mind by what he heard and read on the subject when he was in +the country, without it being alleged that he attempts to assail +the principles of free government, or to make invidious charges or +wholesale accusations against a nation. I know too well the force with +which Americans could retort if they were so minded, and how they could +point to the reports of election judges which set forth the prevalence +of extensive bribery, led to the suspension of writs, and will perhaps +end in the disfranchisement of some ancient and populous boroughs and +constituencies in England, and to the speeches of Sir Henry James in +Parliament, to cast any stone out of my glass house on that score; +but I do not think it can be established that persons in a position +at all analogous to that of the members of a State Legislature have +been purchased wholesale in England, Ireland or Scotland, or that even +a complete Borough Corporation had been bought up. Now, nothing was +more common in the Far West than to hear it stated openly that Senator +So-and-so had bought his place, and that Mr. So-and-so had purchased +a State Legislative body in order to "get through" some railway or +other scheme. That was accepted in fact as a matter of course, and +not contradicted or questioned by any one. We heard from time to time +of the sums which So-and-so would expend to buy his senatorship, and +of the money actually paid to secure the passage of a line from the +legislature of O---- and the like, whilst stories relating to the +purchase of judges were common in the conversation of the hotels and +cars. + +I do not aver that these stories were true. I only know that they +passed current and were not challenged by those who were around us. +"Thoughtful persons," who exist in the United States as well as in +the vicinity of Pall Mall clubs, lament, deplore and hate the evils +of growing corruption with all the fervour of honest and powerless +natures. The mechanism is scarcely concealed. It stands before the +world with less attempt at disguise than the gallows in the gaol. Mr. +Parton, in the 'North American Review' of this July, writing on the +power of public plunder, says: "At present, in the ninety-fifth year +of the Constitution, we are face to face with a state of politics of +extreme simplicity, of which money is the motive, the means and the +end. What was the last Presidential election but a contest of purses? +The longest purse carried the day, and it carried the day because it +was the longest. Some innocent readers perhaps have wondered why the +famous orators who swayed vast multitudes day after day and night after +night, have not been recognised in the distribution of office. They +were paid in cash from ten dollars a night to a thousand dollars a +week." And then he goes on to describe the business in detail, and to +show what this power is. He says: "There is a boss in the city of New +York who will take a contract for putting a gentleman into Congress. +Pay him so much and you may go to sleep, wake up and find yourself +member elect. A boss is a man who can get to the polls on election +days masses of voters who care little or nothing for the issues of the +campaign and know of them still less. They operate upon the strangers +in the land who are unable to use its language and are unacquainted +with its politics." Mr. Parton describes with humour one of these +"bosses," an improvement on the pugilists and cormorant thieves of a +remote period. "The Emerald Isle gave him birth; the streets of New +York, education. To see the brawny, good-tempered Irishman walking +abroad in his district when politics are active is to get an idea +of how the chief of a clan strode his native heath when a marauding +expedition was on foot. He lives in a handsome house, and has more +property than any man has ever been able to get by legitimate service +to the United States. He treats his dependants and retainers nobly, but +as the agent and organiser of spoliation he is a prey to every minor +scoundrel, for at certain seasons he dare not say no to any living +creature. And yet it requires tact, self-possession and resource to +move about among needy people with a pocket full of money, an embodied +"yes," and have some of it left after the election. The strikers, as +they are called, go for solid cash now instead of target companies and +clambakes for which the candidates paid the bills." "Money, money," +exclaims Mr. Parton, "everywhere in politics, in prodigal abundance, +money, except where it could secure and reward good service for the +public, hecatombs for the wolves, precarious bones for the watchdogs." +The details in the article are precise, and if they are to be trusted +it may be doubted whether the claims of the United States to possess +a cheap government can be maintained, for it is not cheap to pay +responsible executive officers a precarious pittance per annum if +now and then it costs a million dollars to change them. Mr. Secretary +Blaine has thrice declared that the election in October 1880 in the +State of Maine, a model New England State, was carried by money. His +opponents declared that he and his party were as bad, and that they +too flooded the towns with money. What renders the situation more +dangerous is the fact that the men who provide the money for running +these enormously expensive political combinations are either seekers +after, or holders of, office, and the inference is that they seek to +control Government, or, as Mr. Parton puts it, that "the Government +is coming to be rather an appendage to a circle of wealthy operators +than a restraint upon them." That is indeed a serious proposition, and +the result of observation goes to support the idea that it is valid. +The small man is in office, but the big man, his master, is outside. +The mischief is brought prominently forward in connection with the +sale of public lands in the North-West, which have been claimed as the +heritage of the people, and indeed of all the nations of the world. The +government land attracted the hardy labour of all countries, covering +the western west with thriving towns and populous counties. But now +the prairies are skinned by rich men, by "land-grabbers," people who +buy up tracts of twenty thousand or thirty thousand acres wherever +they can lay their hands upon them, evading the law and filling the +western world with roving labourers who work on these prodigious farms +in summer and starve in winter. This is, we are told, the result of +"government by lobby." + +Occasionally there is an exceeding great and bitter cry over all this +from the depths of the body politic. Some great paper in a moment of +deep mental agony publishes an article like that, to which I have +called attention, by Mr. Parton; occasionally some preacher, nobly +daring, thinks it necessary to direct attention, from his pulpit, to +the progress of corruption. Dr. Talmage delivered a very remarkable +discourse whilst I was in America on the text from Job. xv. 34: "Fire +shall consume the tabernacles of bribery." Although I do not profess +exactly to understand to what particular sect he belongs, he is one of +the leaders of religious thought, dividing with Beecher and others the +popular favour in the Empire City. The State buildings at Albany ought +to be heavily insured if the reverend gentleman's vaticinations are +right. It was an American discourse. I cannot give the whole oration. +The people of the Brooklyn Tabernacle were presented with a muster-roll +of the people who had distinguished themselves amongst the great ones +of the world. Cobden, Brougham, O'Connell and Rowland Hill were placed +in juxtaposition as leaders on our side of the water. Of course it was +impossible to resist the allusion to Francis Bacon and to Macclesfield; +but it was scarcely correct to say that the Lord Chancellor +Whiteberry--I presume a misprint for Westbury--"perished," nor do I +quite understand what the preacher meant by the awful tragedy of the +_Credit Mobilier_. Washington, Ben Butler, and John McClean were linked +together for the benefit of Americans. They were, Dr. Talmage declared, +great politicians, but "out of politics there has come one monstrous +sin, potent and pestiferous, its two hands rotten with leprosy, +its right hand deep in its breeches pocket. This is bribery." Dr. +Talmage called upon the American people to judge the crime. "Under the +temptation of this sin," he exclaimed, "Benedict Arnold sold the fort +in the Highlands for thirty-one thousand three hundred and seventy-five +dollars; Gorgy betrayed Hungary, Ahitophel forsook David, Judas killed +Christ. I think," he says, "when I see the strong men who have gone +down, of the Red Dragon in Revelation, having seven heads and ten +horns, and seven crowns upon its head, drawing the third part of the +stars of heaven after it." And therefore he proceeds to preach against +bribery. He thought it was the right time, "because the Legislature +in New York is busy in investigating charges of bribery. The whole +country woke up in holy horror at the charge that two thousand dollars +had been offered to influence a vote in the Legislature, as if this +was something new; as though in one State nine hundred and seventy-five +thousand dollars had not been paid a legislator of the State Government +by a railway company to get its charter and secure a dedication of +public lands; as though three-quarters of the legislators of the United +States had not, through bribery, gone into putrefaction whose stench +reached heaven. After a few weeks' hunting the squirrel has stolen the +hickory nut. Gentlemen in New York hunt out wrong by day and play poker +and old sledge at night at Delavan House. It was like the country which +had spent six millions of dollars in lawsuits about William Tweed going +suddenly into hysterics when it found out that he had stolen a box of +steel pens. California is submerged in the grip of a great monopoly; in +Kansas United States senators had been involved in charges of bribery; +in Connecticut an election to Congress was bought as men might buy +a box of strawberries. Last year they were convicted of attempting +bribery in Pennsylvania, but the Court of Pardons liberated them with +the exception of two judges, who were told that they would be cut off +from political preferment for their obstinacy. A Pennsylvania United +States senator used to put a price on legislators just as a Kentuckian +puts a price on his horse." But it was not legislators alone that Dr. +Talmage attacked. He declared that the railways, the common carriers +of the country, were tainted by a favouritism which was, in fact, +the result of bribery. One company made rebates in its fares to some +favoured corporation, as in the case of a petroleum company, which +was enabled to control the price of that light all over the world in +consequence of a virtual monopoly that was given to it by arrangement +with the railway. In the same way merchandise in grain, provisions, +and cattle are placed in the hands of a few firms. "How much," asks +Dr. Talmage, "did it cost the Elevated Railroad to keep the fare from +dropping to five cents from ten cents? I have been told," said he, +"three hundred thousand dollars," which is 60,000_l._ "Very seldom +does a bill pass through any of our Legislatures if there be no money +in it. Sometimes the bribery is in bank bills, sometimes in railroad +passes, sometimes in political preferment, sometimes by the monopolies +given to the legislators, what are called points, a corner, a flier, a +cover, washing the street, salting down, ten up! If you want to know +what these are, ask the bribed members at Albany and Harrisburg." +Then he goes on, with some truth, to declare that the bribery begins +far away behind all this; that it is really with the money subscribed +for election expenses that the evil begins its course. "From the big +reservoirs of subscribed election expenses the little rills roll down +in ten thousand directions, and by the time the great gubernatorial, +congressional, and presidential elections are over, the land is drunk +with bribery." Perhaps it is quite as well that it is from an American +orator and from an American writer such statements and such indictments +proceed, rather than from a stranger like myself; but it is very clear +that the evil which De Tocqueville indicated long ago has spread rather +than diminished, and there is reason to think that it will do so until +the public conscience of a great people is aroused to a sense of the +enormity of the mischief. But it lies far down towards the base of +the national institutions, and any attempt to extirpate it will fail +until the doctrines of the "Spoils to the Victors" be rejected from the +political catechism, and the interests of party made the means and not +the end of political life. + +The letters which appeared in the _Morning Post_, written under +the influence of the surprise and anger I felt at the extent and +impunity of crimes of violence and the state of feeling, or want of +it, respecting them in the West, were badly received in America, and +were severely handled by a few papers, as I was informed; I expected +that the mention of the subject would not prove agreeable, though +I guarded myself most sedulously from a single offensive word--nay, +went out of my way to palliate the offences against life and living, +and to excuse the people who allowed them, whilst I most carefully +drew the line--a broad one--between these border ruffians and the +law-abiding, virtuous people of the settled States. I was not, however, +prepared for misrepresentation. One would have thought that I accused +the kind hosts who had received us--our generous entertainers in +so many cities--the courteous, polished gentlemen who accompanied +us--of murder and robbery, and ascribed to them the brutal murders +committed by Canty or the Kid. As I quoted chapter and verse, and as +the papers which vilified me could not deny the statements, they wrote +that I had been imposed upon by the vivid fancy--in other phrase, +the deliberate lying--of their brother editors in the West. One organ +had the effrontery to declare that the Duke of Sutherland expressed +his delight at the kind and courteous treatment of the ruffians I +denounced; adding, "somebody lied--it was not the Duke." No. It was not +indeed! A friend sent me one of these, and below an article in which it +was said that I might take my place "beside Basil Hall, Mrs. Trollope, +and Dickens for libelling the people of the United States," and that +my stories were all inventions, there was a pregnant commentary as +follows:--"Sunday, July 17th: Daring Train Robbery; Bandits Boarding +Chicago, Rock Island, and Pacific Cars; The Conductor and a Passenger +Shot Dead, and the Safe in the Express Car Robbed; the Passengers Saved +by a Brakeman." + +I hope it will not be imagined that I have any desire to cast obloquy +on the grand efforts, supremely successful as they have been, to +turn the prairie and the desert to the uses of civilised man and +of the world, and to open up the Western Continent to humanity and +civilisation. I am too sensible of the courtesy, ready service, and +hospitality everywhere accorded to the party of English travellers +of which I was one, to write one word which I thought calculated to +give pain or offence to any of our many friends or to any right-minded +American. _Maculæ solis!_ 'Tis a pity they are there! In a few years, +perhaps, the memory that such things were will have passed away like +the recollection of some evil dream. But public sentiment must make +itself felt, and above all there must be some abatement of the maudlin +sympathy, which is virtually on the side of crime, if it be active in +averting punishment. + +Crime in America, especially in the Eastern States, is very much +the same as it is in other countries, but in the far West there is +more recklessness in dealing with human life, which, in spite of the +Howard Society and of humanitarians, I believe to be connected with +the indulgence extended under State laws by American judges and juries +to criminals who appear to be deserving of nothing but the strict +and unmitigated application of the rope. "Property" is safe, for the +citizens hunt down with extraordinary energy marauders whose object is +simply plunder. Ordinary robbers and gangs of burglars are speedily +and summarily suppressed. It is otherwise with those who assail life +and limb. The desperadoes who infest the "saloons," as they are called, +with which every western settlement is sure to be provided as soon as +the shingle roofs are placed on the earliest upheaval of deal planks +which can be called a dwelling, have far greater immunity and freedom +than burglars or robbers. Wherever the train stopped for water on +our journey in New Mexico, Western Colorado, or Eastern California, a +rectangular wooden box, with a verandah, open doors, windows screened +by a muslin curtain, perhaps a flagstaff with the Stars and Stripes +flying, a large signboard, and some high-sounding name--the "Grand +Alliance," "Union League," "El Dorado," "Harmonium," "Arcadia," or +the like--was visible, with the usual group of booted and bearded +miners, and their horses hitched up at the door-posts in front; inside +you would be certain to find men of the same class at a bar, behind +which, known for miles around, the affable Charlie, Bill, or Bob was +dispensing drinks and mixing cocktails, slings, and the other drinks, +in which the badness of the spirit is artfully disguised by a stimulant +of a more active character and more pronounced flavour, known as +"bitters," and kept in subjugation by the liberal use of ice. For even +in these burning regions ice is stored up as the one thing needful. The +rudest miner is accustomed to it; iced drinks are consumed by classes +in America far below the social level of those who never taste them in +this country. + +As the train was halting at Colorado Springs the stewards engaged +in an animated discussion respecting a certain erection of poles and +rafters just visible in an adjacent field. "I tell you dat's it." "I +say tidn't." They were discussing the probability of the scaffolding +being the gallows whereon "Canty, the Buena Vista murderer," was to be +hanged the day after. On April 29th, last year, Mr. Canty was standing +on the platform in front of Lake-house with "Johnny the Ham," "Curly +Frank," and "Off Wheeler," when Thomas Perkins appeared in an alley +opposite, endeavouring "to induce 'Dutch Bill' to go with him to the +office of Justice Casey, who had deputised him for the purpose." Canty +and his companions at once ran across and demanded his release. Before +Perkins could answer, Canty fired and missed him. The second shot +wounded Perkins in the arm; the latter drew his pistol, but before he +could use it Canty fired; the ball shattered the constable's hand. "For +God's sake," he exclaimed, "is there no policeman to help me?" He fell, +and Canty, walking close to his side, coolly sent a bullet through +his body. He was arrested, tried, and convicted. His counsel applied +to the Supreme Court for a _supersedeas_, but the court, after solemn +argument, refused the application. Then they applied to the Governor +of the State, but Mr. Pitkin, though "a weak-kneed man," would neither +grant a reprieve nor a commutation to imprisonment for life. There +was, he said, no ground "to set aside a verdict of a competent jury +and the district judge reviewed and approved of by the Supreme Court." +In the very last hour a woman came forward, and the Denver paper gave +_verbatim et literatim_ the text of the document in which ... "with dew +regard," she offered Sheriff Spangler $50,000 (10,000_l._) to save the +life of W. H. Canty, her cousin, whose real name was, she said, N. H. +Salisbury. "I entreat you to have him spared till you have an interview +with me." She added that "Jennings and his brother in Leadville would +pay a still larger sum. You may have ample means for life," &c. A +gentleman of the press, who came into our train at South Arkansas, +was present at the execution. Just before the drop fell, Canty, who +had expressed complete confidence in his ultimate liberation till the +day before his execution, spoke for fifteen minutes, protesting his +innocence. Then he exclaimed, "Good-bye, nothing can save me. I have +faith in the Saviour and a hereafter." The trap was sprung, but to the +horror of every one, the rope broke at the beam. The murderer's neck, +however, was dislocated, and "a happy relief was experienced" when +it was found he had died a painless death. As he was the nephew of an +eminent statesman it was expected his friends would take action as to +the disposal of his remains, which were put "in a neat casket at the +sheriff's expense." In the journal there was a woodcut of the murderer. +"Before his likeness could be taken holes were bored in the door and +Canty was lashed to it, and then, when the door was set upright, the +photographer watched a favourable opportunity when the head and eyes +were quiet and secured the impression" from which the engraving was +made. He was not so fortunate as Frank Gilbert, who was sentenced to +be hanged the following day for a brutal murder, but respited, "in +order that the proceedings may be reviewed by the highest judicial +tribunal," by Governor Pitkin at the last moment, "till July 29," the +day on which Rosencrantz is now sentenced to be hanged. The sheriff, +Judge Ward, the clerk of the court, and the prosecuting attorney +joined with others in petitions to the governor on the ground that +the Supreme Court judges had refused a _supersedeas_ in consequence of +the defects and informalities of the record of the proceedings in the +court below. Rosencrantz was respited, and the public, who had been +expecting a double execution on the 18th of June, were disappointed, +although they were allowed to slake their curiosity by the sight of the +condemned men and by testing the ropes in the prison enclosure where +the scaffold was ready. In the paper which gave the text of Governor +Pitkin's reprieve there was a heading "Done Brown. Al. Huggins, +marshal of Recene, turns out a bad man. He shoots and fatally wounds +officer Brown of Kokomo." Phil. Foote, constable of Kokomo, formerly +marshal of Robinson, and Al. Huggins, marshal of Recene, it seems had +spent the night in visiting the saloons of Kokomo, and in the early +morning began to fire their pistols and guns off in the street, and +continued to do so until Andy Sutton, marshal of Kokomo, attempted to +arrest them, but failed, "as he was quickly covered by two rifles." +Mr. Brown, a police officer, asked Huggins to put up his pistol, and, +to encourage him, proceeded to pocket his own revolver, when Huggins +took deliberate aim with a 38-calibre Colt and shot Brown in the left +breast, just above the heart. Huggins and Foote started for Recene. +The marshal of Kokomo followed quickly in pursuit, with a large body +of men. Huggins refused to surrender, whereupon the marshal shot him +in the face. As there was a movement to lynch him, Al. Huggins was +sent under strong guard to Leadville, but Foote escaped. "Brown was +not dead by last accounts, but was not expected to live long." Then +came a long account of another "Denver tragedy. Charles Stickney +murders Mr. T. Campan and Mrs. H. O. Devereux in a boarding-house." +Stickney was nephew of ex-Governor Clifford, of Rhode Island, served as +lieutenant, 20th Regiment, in the war of 1861-4, graduated at Harvard, +became principal of a school, married a lady whom he sent to London +to study music, and tried mining whilst his wife was giving music +lessons in Denver. There she met Mr. Campan, one of the best families +in Detroit; Stickney shot him and killed a woman who was in the room +at the same time. "Public opinion is in favour of Stickney, and he will +probably be reprimanded." The evening of the day we reached Leadville, +"Alderman Johnnie M'Combe, a leading candidate for lieutenant-governor +and mayor, and last spring before the people for city treasurer," +shot and wounded, probably fatally, a well-known actor named James +M'Donald, because the latter had taken some children in M'Combe's +buggy for a drive. It is not easy to determine how far Johnnie's chance +of office may be affected by this ebullition, but the newspapers did +not write of it with harshness; one gave it a comic character by the +heading, "Ex-Alderman M'Combe attempts to perforate Jemmy M'Donald's +cranium." In my morning paper of the same date I find that "James Hogan +was foully murdered by James M'Cue in the open streets of Erie this +afternoon in a quarrel about a handkerchief;" that Dr. Flemings, a +prominent citizen of Portland, Ashley County, Arkansas, had appeased +a quarrel between a pedlar named Gillmore and a coloured man very +effectually, for, "incensed by a remark made by the pedlar, the doctor +drew a pistol and shot him dead;" that "a prominent business man of +M'Leansboro' had made a sensation on the streets to-day by hunting +up, pistol in hand, one of the gay Lotharios of Hamilton County;" +that "Daniel Keller, deputy county clerk, was stabbed and killed in +the street of Virginia City by Dennis Hennessy, a kerbstone broker;" +that "a searching party under Captain Leper had overhauled Hamilton, +Myers and Brown, the outlaws who shot Sheriff Davis and Collector +Hatter at Poplar Bluff, Mo.; killed Hamilton, mortally wounded Myers, +and made Brown a prisoner;" that "James Hurd shot Jeff Anderson at +Alamosa, Col., and that it was feared the latter would not survive." +An account of the death of "Curly Bill," a notorious desperado, leader +of cowboys and murderer of Marshal White, who was killed at Caleyville, +Arizona, by his comrade, Jem Wallace, followed. They had a quarrel (of +course, in a saloon). After a few drinks "Curly Bill" said, "I guess +I will kill you on general principles." Wallace stepped out of the +saloon and immediately opened fire, inflicting a mortal wound on his +foe. After a brief hearing Wallace was discharged, and left for parts +unknown. Then it was related how "Thomas Clarey ('Tommy the Kid'), a +Durango outlaw, was killed by a comrade named Eskridge at Annego while +drunk." A fratricide and three trials for murder were duly recorded. +Another paper gave an account of South-West Colorado from the lips +of a recent visitor to San Juan County. "Are you going back to San +Juan? No, I think not; but it is a glorious country. The men there +are a little rough, and kill each other on slight provocation; but a +peaceable man who does not swagger and blow is not molested. There is +no law, and courts and constables are unknown." He narrates how Aleck +----, acting as a barkeeper, "a noble-hearted, jovial fellow, full of +fun, who looked you square in the eye, owns mines, said to be worth +a million," settled a difficulty; I am inclined to think Mr. Charles +Klunk rather drew on the interviewing reporter of the _Globe Democrat_. +He was, he said, going to see a stockman who lived about fifty miles +from the house where he was visiting. A farmer said to him "Come and +take a drink with me, and I'll show you the barkeeper who killed the +man you are going to see an hour ago." The stockman had come into +the saloon whilst Aleck was in the back room, and began to abuse him. +Aleck heard him, opened on the man with a revolver, and "shot him full +of holes. Next day I asked him what he was going to do about it, and +he said he had been tried and acquitted, which meant that some of the +leading men had told him that he had done right. There was no trial +about it. When a man kills another out there in a fight they don't +inquire very strictly into the circumstances, but make up their minds +that they can't bring the dead man to life by hanging the killer, so +nothing is done about it. But when a man murders another to rob him, +the vigilants turn out and have no mercy on him. They just fill his +skin with lead and tumble him into a hole like a wolf. After all, +though the bears are plentiful in the spring, you can kill a deer 100 +yards from the house where you like, the streams are alive with trout, +the vegetables and crops splendid." Mr. Charles Klunk's resolution not +to go back to this Happy Valley seems founded on sound constitutional +principles. What I wish to point out is the condition in which the +Central Government and State Governments have permitted many districts +of New Mexico, Colorado, and California to remain. It is plain that +the peculiar conditions under which the sway of the United States has +been extended over the regions of the Far West have rendered it very +difficult to establish the machinery for protecting life and property +and punishing crime; but I do not see that the statesmen at Washington +or the legislators at the State capitals are very much concerned at +the reign of terror which prevails on the borders, or that they seek +to impress on their people any regard for the sacredness of life. In +fact, human life is almost a drug in the market. And I write fully +sensible of the failures of our own and of all European Governments to +repress crime, to prevent violence, and to ensure security to life and +property. I am aware that Ireland and Poland are to the fore, and that +wife-beating and "running kicks" illustrate the brutality of Lancashire +and other districts--that London has its Alsatias, that every European +capital has foul recesses in which the only laws are those of crime. +All the world is busy preparing shoals of emigrants for the United +States. It is only, however, when some savage outbreak affrighting the +propriety of a great city arouses indignation and fear that there is +a clamour for measures of repression. I do not think there is in any +other part of the world, or that there ever has been in any civilised +country, such shootings as have filled the land to which I allude with +bloodshed. It may be said with truth that there never have been and +that there are not any similar conditions in the world. But the absence +of any great abiding movement for the correction and suppression of +violence and lawlessness cannot be so readily accounted for or excused. +There appears to be a sort of admiration for these border ruffians +among portions of the American Press and public. Even a staid paper +like the _Republican_, in an article headed "South-East Missouri: the +Reign of Lawlessness about Ended," on the destruction of the New Madrid +gang, writes of one who was sent to the penitentiary for thirty years +"as a living monument of a bold and brave lot of desperate men who had +started out to make money by robbing their fellow-men. This swift and +stern justice speaks well for this portion of the States, which has had +for a long time more than its full quota of these lawless characters. +Myers and Brown will be hung on the 15th July, and their execution will +be witnessed by thousands of South-East Missourians." The spectacle +of the hanging will not do much good, if it be like the execution at +Colorado Springs, which was advertised as a sort of picnic or pleasure +excursion. One advertisement ran, "After the hanging to-morrow drink +La Salle beer; it will cool your nerves." "Highway robbery here has +about run its course, and the people are determined that lawlessness +in those regions shall no longer go unwhipped of justice." Very good. +But, why not sooner and long ago? "Rhodes was hung by Judge Lynch +when captured at the killing of young Laforge in New Madrid;" but the +gang killed the sheriff and wounded the deputy-sheriff and collector +before the people arose in their majesty to squelch them. A criminal +is invested with a notoriety which, next to popular estimation, is +valued by some men, and it is noted with interest that "Gilbert" (one +pitiless murderer) is a Catholic, and that "Rosengrants" (another +homicide) "inclines towards the Episcopalians." A Leadville doctor +visits one of them to ask for his body. "No, sirree, you can't have +my body; I'll be hanged first!" And the public laugh at the lively +sally, and admire the _sangfroid_ of the wit! In fact, there is a +_tendresse_ for crime in this grim humour. A Texan who would "fill the +skin" of a stranger "with lead" for aspersing Texas would no doubt +heartily enjoy the description of the early population of the Lone +Star State, which I quote from the Texas Press. "In the early days +of the Republic, and even after annexation, many of the white men who +came here had strong sanitary reasons for a change of climate, having +been threatened with throat disease so sudden and dangerous that the +slightest delay in moving to a new and milder climate would have been +fatal, the subjects dying of dislocation of the spinal vertebræ at the +end of a few minutes--and a rope. A great many left Arkansas, Indiana, +and other States in such a hurry that they were obliged to borrow the +horses on which they rode to Texas. They mostly recovered on reaching +Austin, and many invalids began to feel better and consider themselves +out of danger as soon as they crossed the Brancos River. Some who would +not have lived twenty-four hours longer had they not left their homes +reached a green old age in Western Texas, and were never again in risk +of the bronchial affection already referred to by carefully avoiding +the causes which led to their trouble. Some at Austin recovered so +far as to be able to run for office, within a year, though defeated +by a respectable majority, owing to the atmosphere and the popularity +of the other candidate." The most extraordinary fact connected with +the indulgence which is extended to Western excesses is the severity +with which Northern and Eastern writers and publicists deal with +the recklessness of Southerners with regard to life, as if it were a +political question in some way connected with slavery. In an article on +"Colonisation," in the July number of 'The International Review,' there +is an attempt to prove that the prevalence of homicide in the South as +compared with the North has impeded the flow of immigrants, although +slavery has disappeared, and the writer, quoting Mr. Redfield's book +on 'Homicide North and South,' says the terrible "scourge of open +murder, wholly irrespective of political causes more deadly than +disease or yellow fever, because each death is the result of a heinous +crime, seems to be calmly accepted by public opinion as a part of +the unchangeable conditions of social life in the South. In Kentucky +more men are killed in six days than in eight years in Vermont. In a +village of Connecticut a death from homicide has never occurred from +its foundation, while in one graveyard in Owen County, Kentucky, the +majority are murdered men, and in another county forty-two persons +were killed and forty-three wounded in two years." But in the very same +number of the 'International' there is an account of the doings of the +"Vigilance Committee" of San Francisco (where there were no slaves and +where there is immense wealth), which might cause the author of the +paper on "Colonisation" to reflect a little on his theories. Surely in +Arizona, California, &c., where the foreign population is 50 per cent. +of the natives, immigration has not been checked by the prevalence of +homicide? It must not be supposed that there is no "law" in the towns +where these crimes have been committed; in all the cases referred to +the coroner did his office and verdicts were returned, and it will have +been seen that "wretches hang" in due course. We had intended to visit +the State prison at Cañon City on our way to Pueblo from Leadville, +where we were promised an opportunity of seeing "thirty murderers all +in a row," but the delay of the train on the road deprived us of the +means of verifying the statement, and I give it as it was made. It +would seem as if the criminal supply were super-abundant, or that death +on the gallows had no deterrent influence. The chances of escape are, +if not numerous, at least considerable. At Deming, Denver, Leadville, +Tucson, Tombstone, and other cities, the vast mass of the inhabitants +are law-abiding, peaceable, honest, and honourable men, who feel as +much horror at the violence and bloodshed around them as the most +refined lady in any saloon of Boston, Paris, or London, but they appear +to endure these things in the hope that the law will be enforced at +last; now and then they break into vigilance committees and execute +their own decrees, though the judges do not fail to lay it down that +they have been accessories to murder. The great civiliser and police +agent is the railroad. It is affirmed that as the iron way is pushed on +the outlaws and the _personnel_ of outlawry congregate at the terminal +town, but I suspect that there is a fringe of the material left on the +border as it runs. As our party were at dinner in the palace-car one +evening the train pulled up at a station. There was a group of rough +men on the platform, who stared in with all their eyes at the white +tablecloth, set with bright glass and silver, and at the cheerful faces +under the lamps. "How merry they are. I wonder if they know that this +is Dodge City?" exclaimed one of the crowd. I was told by an official +that when they were making a railway in these parts the surveyors, &c., +were much troubled by gangs of gamblers and robbers, who impeded the +work and debauched the men, so after due warning they made a razzia +on the gamblers, shot a lot of them, and the rest "vamosed." There was +not very long ago an actual war in the Grand Cañon Valley between the +Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fé Railway and the Denver and Rio Grande +Railway, in which there was an array of armed forces and fighting on +both sides, and we saw with our own eyes the remains of the breastworks +cast up in the Grand Cañon by the belligerents. The law came in at +last. "One side got at the judge first and gave him $50,000. The +other was quite ready to go beyond that, but the first was too quick, +and the suit went against the company." I was talking to a lawyer +about the length of time which is allowed by the judges to criminals +sentenced to death as a detail of the execution of the law not in +accordance with the general practice of civilised nations, when one +of the company remarked, "They must do it, sir, to please the people. +If we had Judas Iscariot in gaol to-morrow there would be thousands +of petitions to commute his sentence, and thousands of dollars ready +for an appeal to the Supreme Court. Our people don't like prompt +sentence." Nevertheless, sentence and execution are pretty swift when +the desperadoes take the law into their own hands, as we have seen. +The revolver and the "saloon" are the agents and the scene in most of +these murders, and whisky is too often the motive power. In Kansas it +is a criminal offence to sell any intoxicating spirit, or to use it +except on medical certificate. It is said that the law cannot last, but +it surely was a very strong conviction of the evils which were endured +by the community that brought a State Legislature, elected by the +people, to enact that beer, wine, and spirits should be absolutely and +entirely banished from its borders. Lately there was a prosecution by +the State attorney of a man for selling spirits. The case was clearly +proved. The judge charged the jury in the strongest manner against the +defendant. The jury without retiring at once found a verdict of "not +guilty." "Boys," exclaimed the judge, putting his hand on the foreman's +shoulder, "Boys, I'm quite with you." The Kansas case will be, I think, +watched with great interest by the rival parties in England, and it is +certainly worth investigation and attention, for, if all I hear be true +here, a Parliament elected by the people either in advance or in the +rear of their constituents have passed a law which judges condemn, and +juries evade, and public opinion derides. + +From a British, which may be an unintelligent, point of view, there +is a want of logical method in the treatment of the Great Rebellion +question by Americans. There is a general disposition to speak of the +war between the Federal Government and the people of the Confederate +States as an historical fact which has ceased to present burning +controversies and terrible issues to the Republic. But, at the same +time, these controversies are kept alive, and, for the defeated, are +stirred up incessantly by anniversaries and celebrations, natural but, +if it be the object of Americans, as many of them assure us it is, +to let the memory of the past die out like that of a horrid dream, +impolitic. The spirit which animated the Southern States is neither +dead nor sleeping. But there are no end of G. A. P. and G. A. R. +Associations flourishing their banners and waving their sheathed swords +in and out of the newspapers, and it is almost more than Southern +flesh and blood can bear at times to be reminded of the defeats they +sustained, even if they be content to admit that the doctrine of the +sovereignty of States was a delusion, and that the indivisibility of +the Republic was a fundamental principle of the Constitution before it +was conclusively established by force of arms. + +North and South, our good cousins are fond of anniversaries and +speechmakings. I wonder where they get their taste for them from? +Some few veterans dine together on anniversaries of old French war +days, and there is a Balaclava Dinner in the Old Country; but, though +we have a reasonably long list of fighting successes to commemorate, +their anniversaries are mostly left to the almanacks. The other day +the Americans had a celebration of the Battle of Cowpens, wherein the +heroic Morgan gave the diabolical Tarleton the deuce of a whipping. I +wonder if it was worth remembering? But it is better to remember such +things perhaps than Sherman's Raid or Wilderness--or Chickahominy. +There are bitternesses enough remaining--the rivalries and jealousies +of generals are still active and these memories might be left to die +out. + +The great war which so deeply moved the population of the United States +has left many traces in Soldiers' Homes, and men deprived of legs or +arms, or bearing marks of indelible wounds, are to be met with wherever +there is any considerable gathering of people all over the Union. The +clerk at the bar of the hotel, to whom we were talking a moment ago, +was a captain in a regiment of militia, and served with distinction, +having risen to the grade he occupies by conduct and courage during the +war; and if he is known among his friends by the title of "Colonel," +he deserves, probably, the brevet conferred upon him by the authority +of the general public around him. The conductor of the train on the +Pennsylvania Railroad, to whose attention we were so much indebted, was +an ex-officer of volunteers, was engaged at the first battle of Bull +Run, where he was wounded, and in several other actions. And our good +friend the Major, who enabled us to pass many an hour listening to his +admirable rendering of negro minstrelsy, bore in his body a proof of +the dangers he had passed, in the shape of a Confederate bullet, or +it might have been (for I am not quite sure now) a projectile of the +Federal persuasion. And so on. Scarcely a day passed that we did not +meet someone who had been fighting on one side or the other. + +One great change has come over Americans since I was last here, and, +whether it was the ridicule to which they were exposed or to a sense +of their greatness as a nation that it be due, it is to be commended. +Except by a professional interviewer, not one of the party was asked, +"What do you think, sir, of our country?"! + +The welcome which an Englishman who is entitled to admission into +good society receives all over the States, in the best houses, and +from the best men, is as gracious and warm as ever. It seems as if a +reaction against the suspicion, jealousy, and harshness which marred +the political relations of the Republic and Great Britain in times gone +by, moved those who behave with so much courtesy to Englishmen, and +that they seem to say, _sotto voce_, "Come and see how I forget the +wrongs done to the United States by the Ministers of George III. and +his successors! Admit that I can be as magnanimous as I am rich and +cultivated! I am of your house, but I have transplanted all the good +qualities of your race to American soil, and grafted them on the tree +of liberty which towers aloft in all the splendour of Transatlantic +luxuriance above us." + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +THE RED MAN AND HIS DESTINY. + + Captain Pratt--Carlisle Barracks--An Indian Bowman--The Indian + Question--The Pupils' Gossip--The "School News"--Indian + Visitors--The White Mother--The India Office--White and + Red--Quo Quousque?--Indian Title Deeds--The Reservations--The + Indian Agencies--Missionary Efforts--The Red Man and the + Maori. + + +On the 5th of May the party visited Carlisle Fort or Barracks, one of +the ancient military establishments of the Republic, where in the old +times, speaking in an American sense, a considerable force was usually +concentrated to keep watch and ward over the western frontiers, now +extended thousands of miles away to the Pacific. The Barrack, which +is a large quadrangle capable of containing a couple of regiments, is +appropriated by the Government to this great experiment, the systematic +education of the Indians of both sexes, whose families send them to +school for the purpose of learning English and useful arts, mechanical +and other, which may be of advantage to their people. It was, perhaps, +one of the most interesting of the many little excursions which the +Duke of Sutherland and his friends made in the States, and as it was +the only one of the schools which we had an opportunity of seeing I +shall proceed to give a little account of what we witnessed. In the +first place let me express the sense which every one of us entertained +of the real sterling qualities of Captain Pratt who is in charge of +the school, and of the devotion and solicitude for their charges of +those ladies employed in the training establishment. It may be asked +how casual visitors could judge of these things? The discipline, +order, progress, and perfect method visible in every room, and the +intelligence and good understanding between the teachers and the pupils +which could be perceived throughout the establishment, were adequate +proofs, I think, that the praise is well deserved. At the time of our +visit there were something under three hundred pupils, of whom perhaps +two hundred were boys, and these were engaged in their class-rooms, +each section of Indians being arranged according to nationality, if +such a term can be used. But, indeed, the tribes of Indians differed +from each other in personal appearance far more than do the races +which inhabit the European continent. It is true they nearly all have +straight wire-like black hair and eyes set deeply and rather obliquely +in faces which are frequently of the Mongol type. But there is great +diversity in the shape of the head, the angle of the jaw, the formation +of the mouth and nose, the colour (when not tainted or "improved" by +an admixture of European blood, whether Mexican or American or other) +being pretty uniform, a rich bronze, with something of a copper hue, +predominating in the young people. The boys were dressed in a plain +neat uniform of greyish-blue, military tunics and trousers, well shod +and comfortably equipped in all respects. The girls, amongst whom, +perhaps, taste for eccentric finery was not unobservable, wore dresses +less uniform in appearance, generally neat and always clean; but +their foot gear was rather eccentric. The rooms, spacious barrack-like +apartments, well ventilated, were appropriated to the classes according +to age and progress, the boys being separated from the girls. The walls +were hung with maps and furnished with educational coloured prints, and +boards for arithmetical exercises were in each apartment. The desks and +stools were such as would be seen in an ordinary school, and if one had +not looked at the faces of the pupils and been struck by some of the +strange characters on the walls he would have thought himself in the +middle of some ordinary school; save, perhaps, that his ear would have +missed the curious humming noise which marks the industry of idleness +or of legitimate work in similar establishments in Europe. But here +were all these young savages, poring over their books or boring with +their pens, looking up at the visitors scarcely with curiosity and +applying themselves again to their work, or answering questions put +to them with the composure which must be a portion of the Red Man's +nature. + +I cannot recollect how many tribes there were represented at the +Carlisle school; but I was struck by the race-distinctions which could +be observed when Captain Pratt, standing on a raised platform, called +out the names of each tribe. The little batches, in some instances +only one or two, stood up briskly and looked somewhat proudly about, +as much as to say, "We are Sioux (or Apaches, or Ponchas, or Creeks), +not like these other fellows." And the young ladies were, if one might +judge from their expression, quite as proud of their own people as the +boys. But the names these poor children receive are ludicrous. Not +content with calling them by English names, or American, singularly +misapplied, very often, as a name may be, their own Indian nomenclature +is translated into English, so that we heard reading and reciting +beside "Luke Phillips" and "Almarine McKillip" (a Scotch Creek) +"Maggie Stands-looking" and "Reuben Quick-bear." There was something +of sarcasm, I think, in the address of a Creek boy to the visitors. He +said: "The Indian boys had come here to learn something about the use +of the bow and hunting. Their people believed that if boys grew up to +manhood without learning they would be of no use; therefore they had +sent the boys here to get education." Then, after some moral if trite +reflections, the lad said: "You must understand that nearly everything +that was made was made both for the present and the future. This +barracks was not built for Indians, as I do not think the men who built +it ever thought that it would be an Indian school; but things were made +to do good both in the present and in the future." And then quoth he, +looking at his white friends straight in the face: "The education which +we are getting here is not like our own land, but it is something that +cannot be stolen nor bought from us." And the white man did not turn +red at the words! I do not pretend to judge of the actual progress made +in learning, but the very intelligent self-possessed teachers reported +uniformly that they were satisfied. The most useful education, perhaps, +which these Indians receive is in practical mechanics, and a visit to +the workshops attached to the barracks was amply repaid by the sight +of these industrious young fellows hammering and leathering away in +the various departments. They have actually completed waggons of a most +satisfactory construction, complete in all their parts, so much so that +orders have been received for as many as can be supplied for the use +of Agencies. They make and repair their own shoes. They have sent out +a hundred and twenty double sets of harness. They make coffee-boilers, +cups, pans, pails, and all the articles known to the tin-smith; and the +girls are taught to hem and sew and knit in the English fashion; but it +must have been not many a long year before the white man landed, when +the ancestors of these Indian maidens exercised the same mystery with +fine sinew and skin in the wonderful work of which specimens are handed +down to us to-day. On one point alone, perhaps, there was something to +regret; the health of the children was not all that could be desired. +Well clad, regularly fed, I presume on wholesome food, cleanly lodged +in well-ventilated rooms, these wild children of the plains scarcely +came up to the expectations one would form of them in the matter of +chest-measurement; and although many were remarkable for fine physical +development, Captain Pratt confessed that their sanitary condition was +not everything that could be desired, and that losses from consumption +and other causes were rather serious. But they have plenty of out-door +exercise. They have games in which they rejoice. They drill and +march to the sound of their own band, a very good brass band of eight +performers, each of a different tribe, who played "Hail Columbia!" +and the "Star-Spangled Banner," and the like, with energy and zest; +nay, with harmonious concurrence. When we went out into the large open +square, there appeared before us a wonderful being in feathers, waving +plumes, wampum and all the leathern panoply and peltry adornments of +an Indian, painted, and armed with bow and arrow, probably such an one +as Captain John Smith may have seen as he went exploring the woods +of Virginia on his way to the sacrifice from which he was saved by +Pocahontas. A target was erected at a distance of a hundred yards or +so, and had I been in the centre of it, I should have been perfectly +safe from the arrows which the Indian warrior discharged at it. But +we were told that with a good bow a strong-armed Indian will drive an +arrow right through a buffalo, and in that case I would suppose that +the buffalo was very near to him indeed. + +Of course it is but natural to find very varying degrees of +intelligence amongst the pupils, and the rate of progress was by no +means uniform, but a committee of examination which recently visited +the school declared that the manifestations of advancement in the +rudiments of English education were to them simply surprising. It was +with admiration bordering on amazement they observed the facility and +accuracy with which the children passed through the various exercises, +in reading, geography, arithmetic, and writing, of the schoolroom; +the accurate training and the amount of knowledge displayed were, they +reported, the fullest proof not only of skilful teaching, but of great +aptitude and diligence on the part of the children. Considering the +brief period during which the school had been in operation, and the +fact that the children entered it in a wholly untutored condition, +the evidence was conclusive of the capability of culture. They go on +to say: "We are fully persuaded that improvement equal to that which +we have witnessed in the case of these children of the plains, if +made in equal time by American children, would be regarded as quite +unusual. And when the difficulty of communication consequent upon the +diversities of language is taken into account we can but feel that the +results of which we have been the witnesses to-day justify our judgment +of them as amazing." + +One of the most interesting features connected with the attempts +to educate the Indians at Carlisle is the 'School News,' a little +publication which, as I understand, is conducted by Indian pupils +taught in the establishment, edited by Samuel Townsend, a Pawnee Indian +boy. It is published once a month, and costs 25 cents or 1_s._ per +year. It takes as its motto the lines: + + "A pebble cast into the sea is felt from shore to shore, + A thought from the mind set free will echo on for ever more." + +Perhaps neither the metre nor the actual statement commend themselves +to acceptance, but the matter of the little journal is full of +interest. In the first place the names of the contributors afford +full matter for meditation. Perhaps it is one of the steps which +must be taken to civilise these poor Indians that their names should +undergo a strange and, to me, unmeaning metamorphose. There seems no +reason whatever why the Indian names should not be retained, or if +there is any reason for changing them, at least there might be some +discrimination and good taste exercised in the adoption of English +Christian names. + +The first number of the 'School News,' which I have before me, contains +as an article: "What Michael Burns, an Apache boy, thinks on the Indian +Question." He says, "I cannot help myself, having much feeling for my +people, what has been said about them, and the efforts making to give +us the same privileges as the people of the United States. And it is +said how we have been treated by the bad white man, for the last ten +or fifteen years, decreasing our number. But that kind for treatment +for my nation will soon stop." The poor boy goes on to say: "There is +no doubt that we are in fault. We had the opinion that we could not +get beaten by any other nation. Now we know for ourselves that we will +have to change.... But how does the white man know which way is the +best to do. Was he born that way? No! Education gives him the light +of knowledge." Then a boy named Marcus Poko writes to his father: "I +want you to try hard and leave the Comanche way, and to find the white +man's way." In the leading article, written, I presume, by Samuel +Townsend, it is said: "Indian ways will never be good any more, it +is all passed, gone away, and the other way is coming up to take the +place. We shall all be glad when we all get into the civilised way of +living, then the Indians will not make so much trouble for the American +people. Some people say 'let the Indians get out of the way. There +is no use in trying to advance them, kill them all they are like the +wild animals deaf and dumb, they never will learn anything. We have +already paid so much money for them they have never become civilised +yet.' But all good people say, 'Oh, yes, give them an education and +plenty of opportunities, and send more teachers among them so they may +come up beside us and live as brothers and live in peace.'" There is a +little paragraph as to language. "There are a great many words in the +English," says the writer, "that the Indians have no word for, so the +white people who make the Indian books have to make new Indian words. +So the Indians have to learn the new Indian words. Now we don't know +much about it, but we believe the Indians can all learn to speak the +same as the whites." Then there is a column about the school news: +"Lizzie McRae, a Creek girl, made a very good corn bread the other +day. We had some of it. It was right good I tell you." "Robert American +Horse is a steady boy. He works in the blacksmith shop very well, and +Mr. Harris never has to tell him but once how to do something." "One +of the teachers had artificial violets on her belt. A Gros Ventre boy +saw them, but did not know what they were, so he got up from his desk +and went close to the teacher. He looked at it and then smelt it. When +he smelt it he said, 'Pooh! rags!'" "Boys, some time ago Captain Pratt +gave us advice about throwing stones at birds. Some of the boys who +understand most English did not listen. We want the birds to come and +stay with us and sing for us, too. Let us remember about this, and +not let Captain Pratt have to say it again." "Last Sunday some of the +large girls had a prayer-meeting in the yard at the back of the girls' +quarters. Nobody told them to do it, but they thought it would be a +good thing." There is a long letter from Lizzie Walton, a Pawnee girl +of thirteen years old, describing a trip to Philadelphia, and I believe +there are very few girls of thirteen years of age in any school who +could write more amusingly or better. The account of a magic lantern by +Ada Bent, a Cheyenne girl, closes the number. + +Letters from the children who are sent out to the farmers are published +in this little periodical, and give a very pleasing picture of the +lives and aptitudes of these Indians. Virginia, of Kiowar, writes from +a farm, asking one of the teachers to pardon her for not having done so +before; but "I have not much time," she says, "I am very busy set the +table and wash dishes make my bed and make pies and cakes and try to +make bread too, and the other things beside.... Sometime I make fire +and bring in wood. Mrs. Borton is very kind lady she has two children +one girl and boy. I love these little children very much." "My dear +Miss H----, I am not bad a girl. I help now a great deal. I pray for +you almost every night, also when I wake up in the morning. I like to +pray very much because I make myself good." And so on in a pleasant +little gossiping way, frequently in very difficult language. There is +an article in the 'School News' of July upon the shooting of President +Garfield: "The man who shot him," says the writer, "we suppose, thought +he would please some of the people in the United States. He thought he +was very smart. If President were to die how would every white man, +black man and the Indian feel? It was not in war when the President +was shot, for our country don't have war any more, but in peace.... +We all feel sorry because the President is suffering. We hope he +will soon recover." It is stated that about a hundred boys and girls +have gone out to work on the farms, and there are some trite remarks +about the advantages of hard work as opposed to the disadvantages of +laziness. "The farmers up country say the Indian boys can bind wheat +first-rate." "Nelly Cook, Sioux, made 36 sheets in one day last week. +Nellie Cary, Apache, made 32, and Ella Moore, Creek, made 30. Boys, do +you think those girls are lazy?" The 'School News' has a reporter, it +would appear, for the paper says that "Our reporter took a walk round +in the shops to see what the boys were doing. In all the shops every +boy was busy. In the carpenter shop there were Jock (Arapahoe), Ralph +(Sioux), Elwood (Iowa), and Joe Gun (Ponca) sawing out window and door +frames. Oscar (Cheyenne) and Michael Burns (Apache) were busy carving +balcony posts; and Lester (Arapahoe) was outside chiselling a beam. +These things are all for our new hospital.... Jesse (Arapahoe) and +Little Elk (Cheyenne) were busy in the gymnasium. The waggons which +Robert American Horse has finished painting are to be sent to Oregon +and Washington Territories." It is sometimes difficult to make out +the meaning of the little prattle which these small people commit to +the uncertain medium of the English tongue; but, on the whole, it is +a most interesting and curious study. In one respect these children +of the forest possess that which civilisation seems rather to dwarf +amongst men of the highest culture and imagination--a certain stately +eloquence and nobility of expression, in which natural images abound, +and allegory and metaphor consort together in excellent and tasteful +union. In a paper called 'Eadle Keatah Toh,' which seems to have been +the precursor of the 'School News,' there is an interesting report +from the Committee on Indian Affairs to the House of Representatives, +submitted by Mr. Pound. The motto of the paper is "God helps those +who help themselves"; but surely it might be better put that God will +help those who seek to do good to the unfortunate Indians, who in +contact with civilisation are rendered utterly helpless, and who in +their attempts to help themselves according to the manner of the race +must meet with nothing but extinction. From time to time there are +notices of deaths. One would like to know who wrote the account of the +"death of John Renville, son of Gabriel Renville, Chief of the Sisseton +Sioux." After noticing the circumstances under which he contracted his +fatal illness--fever, produced by drinking water at a spring on a hot +day on a march to the camp in Perry County, the writer says:--"'Death +loves a shining mark,' the poet sang long ago; and in the passing away +of John Renville from our school we sadly say, how truthfully the poet +sang.... Through all the days of his sickness his large sorrowful eyes +had a far-away wondering look, no pain marred the beauty of his brow, +and his voice as he addressed his sister, who tenderly watched over +him, was like the trumpet warbling of some mournful bird. Our hearts +follow the father in deep sympathy as he bears back the body of his +beautiful boy to the land of the Dakotas for burial." + +The Indian chiefs have a right, which they often exercise, of visiting +these schools as a Board; and there is an account in the Carlisle paper +of the visit of Spotted Tail, Iron Wing, White Thunder, Black Crow, +and Louis Robideau from the Rosebud Agency; Red Cloud, American Horse, +Red Dog, Red Shirt, Little Wound, and Two Strike from the Pine Ridge +Agency; Like the Bear and Medicine Bull from the Lower Brule Agency; +Son of the Star, Poor Wolf, Peter Beauchamp, and John Smith from Fort +Berthold; Two Bears, John Big Head, Grass, Thunder Hawk, and Louis +Primeau from Standing Rock; Charger and Bull Eagle from Cheyenne River; +Brother to All and James Broadhead from Crow Creek; Strike the Ree +and Jumping Thunder from Yankton; Robert Hakewashte and Eli Abraham +from Santee Agency; Mr. Tackett and his wife and daughter; a daughter +of Spotted Tail, and others. The meeting of the children with their +parents is described as being most touching; and sometimes the pupils +were not recognised, so greatly had they altered. As the chiefs seemed +unwilling to speak when called upon to do so, there was silence for a +time till a little girl, who had been about a year and a half at the +school, expressed her desire to speak in so earnest a way that General +Marshall permitted her to do so; and so, speaking in her own dialect, +her words were translated into English and into Sioux. She declared +that she liked the white man's ways and the white man's language. +Indian words, she said, were down on the ground, but the white man's +language was in his head. The chiefs, who listened attentively, seemed +to understand this curious figure of speech, and nodded their approval. +And then she enlarged upon the advantage of what she learned, and +implored the chiefs to send their children to the school, where she +says she is going to try to be God's daughter. Her words seemed to +kindle the fire within the chieftains' breasts, for Like the Bear, a +Sioux, and father of one of the boys at Hampton School, came forward +and addressed the meeting. "There is no greater power in the world," +said he, "than the Great Spirit, and we must listen to Him and do +what He wants us to do. When the men who were sent out by the Great +Father the President asked for my children I gave them up. I see you +are making brains for my children, and you are making eyes for them so +that they can see. That is what I thank the Great Spirit for, and it is +that which will make me strong." Then Robert Hakewashte, a chief from +the Santee Agency, spoke, and said that he wanted schools like that +which he saw here on his own reservation, and Spotted Tail wished for +the same thing. "Since I have learned the words of God," he says, "it +makes no difference to me what is the colour of a man's skin; if he +walks like a man it is the same. I do not believe God likes the white +colour only. God likes red and white, for He made them all." And then +the flood of eloquence was loosened, and an old chief of the Sioux, +nearly blind, verging on ninety years of age, who had come to see his +grandson, said: "I grew up a red man, and the things I see here I never +had a chance to see before. I have heard about the white man's church +and his religion, and I have heard about the holy house. I have looked +into them, and I am very much pleased. But there is only one Great +Spirit we all can worship, and the red men all over the country are +hearing about it. You are teaching the children to worship the Great +Spirit. That is a great thing, and I like it. But you have here two +sons of one father. One is sick. I want you to keep the other." And so +he carried him away. + +The condition of the Red Man who is allowed to exist under the banner +of the Republic is a subject which has attracted the attention of the +best and wisest men in the United States. The treatment of the Indians +is a question of future policy. It is one which must exercise a very +deep and abiding influence on the whole history of an ancient and +interesting people. But it is exceedingly difficult to put in a short +compass its most salient points before those who are unacquainted with +the nature of the problems to be solved. Comparisons are odious, above +all places, in America, when they are not to the advantage of the Great +Republic, and I shall not draw any between the state of the Indian +tribes in Canada and in the States. But it may be fairly admitted that +the Indian Question in Canada is divested of many of the difficulties +which surround it south of the lakes. The people of Canada have far +more land than they know what to do with. They are a sparse population. +They are not impelled to fierce adventures by mining "booms," and they +are altogether less progressive than their American brethren. Shall we +say that they are more charitable, more humane, less greedy of other +men's goods? I do not say so. But at all events it is perfectly true +that the Red Man, although he is dying out under the influence of +whiskey and other influences which need not be particularised, in his +native land, lives in comparative peace and comfort under the British +flag in Canada. He is content with the White Mother. He pursues the +occupations dear to his race as a hunter and as a fisherman. He is a +dealer in peltries, and in such small barter as his needs require. He +is the companion of sportsmen, and he delights, free as mountain air, +to hunt on the hillside and in the prairie in winter over the vast +ranges of snowy fields which in the few short months of spring and +summer teem with flowers, and the frosty lakes which yield fish to his +spear and net. There are few or no railways through his reservations +to vex his repose, no great trains of miners with pick and rifle to +drive away the moose and the buffalo, and hand the native hunter over +to starvation. The Indian gives to the white man all he needs, and aids +him in obtaining from the wide stretch of land over which he roams all +the wealth that it can afford. Practically one part of the Dominion +is handed over to the Red Man and to the half-breeds, for there is an +Indian frontier which as yet has not been much encroached upon by any +large migration of whites. As far as I know, conflicts north of the +Saint Lawrence between Indians and whites are unknown, or have not +been heard of for very many years. South of the great lakes, in the +wonderful land over which is displayed the banner of the stars and +stripes, the fate of the Indian is very different. In the words of Mr. +Carl Schurz, himself an expert in the question, "the history of the +relations of the United States with the Red Man presents in great part +a record of broken treaties, of unjust wars and of cruel spoliation." +That is a sweeping statement, which it would be just as well for +an Englishman not to make, but coming from the mouth of an American +citizen and of a United States Minister with plenty of evidence to back +it, there can be no harm in recording my conviction of its truth. It is +but another indictment against a defect in the form of government which +Americans exalt as the most perfect of human institutions, that the +central government made treaties in good faith with the Indian tribes, +but was unable to enforce their obligations or to maintain their +integrity. There is, as all well-informed people know--well informed, +at least, in reference to American affairs--a commissioner who makes an +annual report to the Secretary of the Interior respecting the Indian +tribes in the various locations over the Union and the Territories. +The last of these reports which I have seen is that of the Acting +Commissioner Mr. Marble, addressed to the Department of the Interior +from the office of Indian Affairs at Washington in the November of +last year. The volume contains the reports of the agents in the Indian +Territory; of the schools for Indian children established in pursuance +of a wise and humane policy, and detailed statistics in relation to the +Indian settlements and reservations, the latter indeed forming by far +the largest portion of the volume of 400 pages. Before I call attention +to the condition of the Indians, and the efforts made to save them from +extinction or from a degradation worse than annihilation, I should like +to direct the attention of those who are interested in the subject +to the view which is beginning to find favour, I believe, among the +most experienced men in the States, that the system of "Reservations" +is founded on a mistake the magnitude of which is demonstrated every +day, and that the only means of saving the Indians from extinction is +their gradual absorption as educated communities in the agricultural +life of the nation, keeping them far as may be from the white man, +but making no other distinction between them and the other citizens +of the United States than such as must be found in the nature of the +Indian race and their degree of culture and civilisation--treating +them, in fact, as communities of Mennonites, Mormons, or Norwegians, +or other nationalities would be treated in the United States. When +the Reservations were first established it was considered impossible +that the migration of the whites would extend to the remote regions of +the west to which the unfortunate survivors of the people with whose +virtues and vices Cooper and other novelists have made us familiar were +gradually and often remorselessly driven. It is a plea which will be +urged in bar of judgment that the doctrine of States Rights prevented +the interference of the United States Government on behalf of the +Indian tribes who were often ruthlessly destroyed. But it will scarcely +be a plea, I think, which humanity in full court would recognise as +valid. _Homo homini lupus._ But to the Red Man as to the Black in many +cases the White Man is worse than any wolf; far more bloodthirsty and +rapacious than any tiger--a Cain of Cains. It was our own kith and kin +who, landing on the shores of the North American continent, encroaching +by degrees upon the tribes and at last encountering their hostility, +spread their sway literally by fire and sword, and rooted out the +Red Man wherever they found him established on land or by sea which +they coveted. We, whose countrymen have worked out the same policy on +the Australian continent and Van Diemen's Land, and who can only be +restrained from its pursuit in New Zealand by the strong arm of the +Home Government, can scarcely afford to take up stones to fling at our +American brethren; and it is not with any purpose of indictment or +accusation that I proceed to make a few remarks on the relations of +the United States Government with the Red Man, and the efforts which +they have been making to compensate the Indians in some measure for the +injustice and persecution dealt out for many a generation. + +As I looked at the men gathered at some of the railroad stations in +the western desert and thought of the Red Men whose fate it is to +meet such representatives of civilisation and Christianity, I could +not but be filled with pity for the unfortunates and with wonder at +"the dispensation" under which they live. The faces are fine and bold +enough, bearded to the cheek or shaved in the American fashion, with +bold staring eyes, which "look square" in your own, with a general +expression "Do you want a fight?" in them--the heads to which they +belong are generally set on muscular bodies. If a gang of these men +think fit to go on to an Indian reservation--the very name is too often +a bitter mockery--who is to stop them? If the Indians try to do so and +one of the white intruders is killed the country-side rings with cries +of "vengeance for the massacre of our brethren," and all the papers are +filled with accounts of "Another Indian Outbreak." + +"The average frontier-man in the States looks," as Mr. Schurz says, +"upon the Indian merely as a nuisance in his way. There are many +whom it would be difficult to convince that it is a crime to kill an +Indian." I will go further and say that there are many, I believe, who +would take great pleasure in killing an Indian whenever they could; +or as one gentleman observed to me, and I believe in his relations +with white men no more just or honourable man or more humane could be +found, "I would sooner kill an Indian than I would a skunk." When I +was in the West, there was a cry raised that the Utes were about to +wage war, and appeals appeared in the local papers for a military force +to march against them. Their leaders were accused of arrogance and of +insolence, and of murderous designs, and the general remark one heard +was, "The Utes must go." I inquired a little into the matter when I got +back, and I found that the Utes were strictly and absolutely, in their +own right, standing upon the titles, which they had derived from the +United States Government, to the lands from which they were required +to move. These lands were wanted. Other lands were pointed out to them, +to which they objected, and then they were informed that they would be +moved by force, and preparations were made to levy war against these +unfortunates, if they resisted deportation from the territory which +had been assigned to them by the Great Father. Had they been Irish +landlords, they could not have been treated worse; but in the West not +one word was raised in favour of their claims. + +The first point which has to be considered is, that the Indian is +obnoxious to the very class of men with whom he is by the necessity +of things most closely brought in contact. The railway has been the +great persecutor of Red Men. It has driven away the game, it has +carried in proximity to their reservations all the enterprise charged +with whiskey, revolver, rifle, and greed, which can be furnished by +the offscourings of the world. In the Far West the miners in advance +throng into the valleys, and break the silence of the mountain-ranges +by the sound of their picks, the cattle-raisers spread out over the +plains, the ploughman settles down on the fertile land. "What," asks +the American philanthropist, and his question is echoed all over the +world by humane and good men, "what is to become of the Indian?" The +hunting-grounds are gradually being pushed farther west and north +until they are bounded by the sea, and by the eternal snow. And if by +any chance it should be found that there is gold or lead, silver or +iron, or copper, or coal in any abundance, even under these unpromising +conditions it will be sought. The buffalo is disappearing fast, faster +than the Indian himself. Deer are becoming scarcer every year. What +is to be left for the Red Man? Pastoral life and agriculture, say +the philanthropists. The substitution, however, is not so easy. The +weakness of the United States Government is the main cause why the +policy of reservations has failed. Let us take the account of it by a +United States Minister. "The Government," says Mr. Schurz, "has tried +to protect the Indians in good faith against encroachments, and has +failed. It has yielded to the pressure exercised upon it by people in +immediate contact with the Indians. When a collision between Indians +and whites once occurred, no matter who was responsible for it, our +military forces were always found on the side of the white against the +savage. How was Government to proclaim that white men should for ever +be excluded from the millions of acres covered by Indian reservations, +and that the national power would be exerted to do so?" Such an +idea the American Minister thinks would be utterly preposterous. The +rough and ready frontier-man would pick quarrels with the Indians; +the speculators would urge him on. Government could not prevent +collisions; the conflict once brought on, Government, in spite of its +good intentions and sense of justice, would find itself employing its +forces to hunt down the Indian. The old story would be repeated, as it +will be wherever, says Mr. Schurz, there is a large and valuable Indian +Reservation surrounded by white settlements, "and unjust, disgraceful +as it is, that is an inevitable result." Such being the case then, +the United States Government being powerless to see that right shall +be done, and it being at once a human and a Christian duty to avert, +if possible, the extinction of the original possessors of this grand +continent, let us see what can be done to carry out the object. Fit the +Indians, it is said, for the habits and occupations of civilised life; +give them individual possession of land as property, a fee-simple title +to the fields they cultivate, guarded by an absolute prohibition of +sale--because it has been found that whenever the Indians are exposed +to the temptation of artful traders, they will be cajoled out of the +titles they have to their land--and you will save the remnants from +utter destruction. I hope it will be so. I could not but feel a glow +of enthusiasm when I heard the Attorney-General, Mr. MacVeagh, at +Washington, speaking incidentally one day about some railway matter, +declare that he would not sanction the making of a line of railway +through Indian Territory until he was satisfied that the Indians +actually understood the conditions which had been offered to them by +the company. "I will," said Mr. MacVeagh, "send down government agents +there to ascertain that the Indians thoroughly understand what they +are doing, and that it is of their own free will and consent that the +railway passes through their territory in exchange for the money and +goods they receive for the concession." Excellent and just minister! +But, alas! I believe that ere I left the United States the whole thing +was done; the railway company had declared that they would, whether +or no, make their line, and if an Indian touched a hair of the head of +any white man, the United States Government would not be able to avert +the Divine wrath of every white man on the border from the whole of +the tribe. Well may Mr. Schurz say that the thought of exterminating a +race once the only occupants of the soil, where so many millions of our +own people have flourished, must be revolting to every American who is +not devoid of all sentiments of justice and humanity. Extermination or +civilisation is the alternative offered to the Indian. Now let us see +how it is proposed to civilise them. According to the returns in the +Report for 1880, the number of Indians in the United States, exclusive +of those in Alaska, is 256,127. Of these, 138,642 are described as +wearing citizen's dress. It will be observed that there is no estimate +given of the Indians who do not wear citizen's dress under this head. +Citizens must be sometimes very badly dressed indeed if the Indians I +saw at various stations along the line to San Francisco in shocking +bad hats and tattered clothes were to be included amongst those who +figured under this description in the report of the Commissioner. About +17,000 houses are reported as occupied. There are 224 schools, attended +by 6000 scholars for a month or more during the year, scattered over +the continent. About 34,550 Indians could read. There were 154 church +buildings and 74 missionaries. The number of children of school age was +34,541; but this was an under estimate. Of these there was only school +accommodation for 9972. The total amount expended for education during +the year by the United States Government was $249,299; by the State of +New York, $15,863; by the State of Pennsylvania, $325; by other States, +nothing; by religious societies, $46,933; by tribal funds, $7481. +22,048 Indian families were engaged in cultivating farms or small +patches of ground; 33,125 male Indians were labouring in civilised +pursuits; and 358 Indian apprentices had been pursuing trades during +the year. This census and these statistics are stated to be imperfect, +and it would require a close examination of the returns to enable an +inquirer to form any idea as to the progress made in the direction +which we are told is the alternative of destruction. + +The Reservations of the various Indian tribes are scattered irregularly +over the United States; from Michigan, Wisconsin, and Minnesota on +the north and north-west, away to the Territories on the other side +of the Rocky Mountains, down to New Mexico and Arizona, there being +none in the southern states bordering the Atlantic. But there are +Red Men of different tribes located, as the Americans would say, in +the States to the east, such as New York. The Reservations are of +irregular size and extent. Isabella, in the State of Maine, reserved +for 848 Indians, lies to the east of 86° longitude, and south of 44° +latitude. There is a considerable group of Reservations on the western +shore of Lake Michigan in Wisconsin, and in Minnesota. But the proper +Indian territory lies west of Arkansas, with the Red River on the +south, New Mexico on the west, and Kansas on the north; and in it are +concentrated the Cherokees, Choctaws, Chicasaws, Comanches, Cheyennes, +and several other tribes. The Navajo Reservation in New Mexico and +Arizona ranks perhaps next in size, extending northwards into Colorado, +where the Utes have got a large tract of land assigned to them upon +what appears now to be very doubtful or vanishing tenure. These, and +numerous reservations, which it would be tedious to enumerate, are +under the charge of agents appointed by the Government at Washington, +as to whose functions and personal character and attainments one +hears very surprising and contradictory reports. But I confess, from +a perusal of the documents which they have furnished to the head of +the Department, and which are published in the Annual Report, there +seems to me no just ground for imputing to these gentlemen want of +zeal, knowledge, interest, or intelligence. Those who detest the whole +work of saving the Red Man are very apt to impute to the Indian agents +not only corrupt practices in relation to the sale of government +stores and supplies destined for the use of those under their charge, +but illicit traffic in spirits, which is ruinous to the Red Man, and +even some participation in the acts of violence which have frequently +led to Indian troubles. It all depends upon the manner in which your +informant in the States regards the Indian Question whether the agents +are described as scoundrels whom no man could trust, or as gentlemen of +high propriety and general excellence. + +The necessities which have been imposed by advancing civilisation +of providing Indians with food entail a heavy outlay upon the United +States Government, which is much begrudged by large sections of members +of Congress, although they do not see their way clearly to withhold +supplies of food from the unfortunate people whose hunting-grounds have +been occupied, and who have not yet learned the arts of agriculture, +so as to be able to supply themselves with food. The transportation of +stores, the cost of beef, corn, coffee, bread, tobacco, tea; in fact, +all kinds of food, woollen goods, clothing, boots, hats, groceries, +waggons, tools, hardware, and medical supplies,--all these duly figure +in the estimates of the Indian Commissioner to a very considerable +amount, and the returns as yet do not present any large reduction on +the annual charge; although nearly all the agents speak in terms of +great hopefulness of the extraordinary advance which has been made in +their agencies in the cultivation of the soil. + +One remarkable division of the agencies has reference to their +appropriation to religious denominations. An Indian might well +be puzzled as to his form of belief if he were passed through the +various agencies, attending at each a religious service or two, and +listening to the teaching of the various divines attached to them. The +Society of Friends have control of the belief and religious teaching +of the Sante and Nemaja Indians in Nebraska, and of the Pawnees in +the Indian Territory; to the Methodists are assigned three tribes in +California, three tribes in Washington Territory, two in Oregon, three +in Montana, two in Idaho, and one in Michigan. The Nevada Cherokees, +Creeks, Choctaws, Chicasaws, and Seminoles are handed over to the +Baptists. The Presbyterians have charge of the Nezpercès in Idaho, +Umtas in Utah; the Apaches, Pueblos, and two other tribes in New +Mexico. The Congregational Church exercises its religious offices +among the tribes in Wisconsin, among two tribes in Dacotah, and one +in Washington Territory. The Reformed Church has its work cut out for +it in Arizona amongst four tribes. The Protestant Episcopal Church +exercises its jurisdiction over one tribe in Minnesota, six tribes in +Dacotah, one in Indian Territory, and one in Wyoming. The Unitarians +have apparently only one tribe in teaching, the Los Pinos in Colorado. +The United Presbyterians have one tribe in Oregon; the Christian Union +has another in Oregon; the Evangelical Lutheran has charge of the +Southern Utes in Colorado; and lastly, the Roman Catholic Church has +two tribes in Washington Territory, two in Oregon, one in Montana, +and two in Dacotah. As a general rule, the reports of the missionaries +themselves are more sanguine, as they are wont to be, than are those +of disinterested, perhaps unprejudiced, observers of their work. But, +as is natural, the actual progress made depends very much, not only +upon the nature of the tribe among whom the work is carried on, but +on the character of the missionary, and on his ability and energy. In +some instances, I see the condition of a tribe is reported as being +lamentable, from a religious point of view, whilst in a neighbouring +reservation, it is stated that great progress has been made in the +establishment of religious teaching and ideas. The Rosebud Agency is +said to prosper in the hands of one reverend gentlemen; the fathers of +St. Ignatius are described as doing good work amongst the Flatheads; +the Pawnees are left without any missionaries at all, and, says +the government report, "are probably better off without them." And +depreciatory remarks are slightingly introduced concerning the work at +other agencies. On the Devil's Lake Agency, the majority of the adults +shun the missionaries as they would the gentleman who may be supposed +to own the lake by the sides of which they are encamped. The Jesuit +fathers and the Catholic sisters are described as working generally +with zeal and success, whilst one agency assigned to the Methodists +is said to have no religious agency at all. It is to the success of +the attempts made to educate the Indians at the public establishments +that the philanthropist and humanitarian must look with the most +hopefulness. + +All the reports of the teachers and visitors of these schools coincide +in one point, that the young Indian is most teachable, and that in +respect of acquiring knowledge he is, if anything, the superior of the +white, who seems to enjoy no hereditary excellence in his capacity for +acquiring knowledge. The Bill to which the Report was an introduction +may be considered indeed as the Magna Charta of the Indian tribes +if it be followed up by judicious treatment, and careful management +of and consideration for the rights conferred upon these tribes as +preliminary to their absorption as citizens in the mass of the nation, +when they are fit for such an amalgamation with the white races. The +advance of the United States westwards has left vacant many military +posts and barracks, stranded, as it were, high and dry in the midst of +the torrent of civilisation. Fort Bridger, Wyoming; Carlisle Barracks, +Pennsylvania; Fort Craig, New Mexico; Fort Cummings, in the same +territory, and a number of others, have been named as suitable for +the purpose of educating the Indian children; and it was in pursuance +of the measure recommended to Congress that the various agencies +throughout the Indian Territories were directed to forward children +whom their parents might wish to entrust to the officers of the United +States for education. "Received in the rudest state of savagism," says +the Report, "their progress is already most remarkable." I have already +remarked that the health of the boys is not generally satisfactory. +Their sanitary condition is bad; and it would appear that sometimes in +these long and tedious journeyings from the remote Indian agencies the +poor children suffer much. + +Even at the present moment the Anglo-Saxon appears to be dealing with +the Maori in New Zealand very much as he has dealt with the native in +Tasmania and in Australia. The history of our relations with the New +Zealand chiefs and people is not in a nature to enable us to throw +stones at the Americans with impunity, for the glass house in which +we live can very easily be reached. Some sixteen or seventeen years +ago a rebellion, arising out of the aggressions of the white settlers +on the lands of the Maori, was averted by a Proclamation and by Acts +confiscating a large tract of Tallinassey, which became theoretically +the property of the Crown. Of course the natives had as little to say +to that as the lady who is mentioned in 'Tristram Shandy' had with the +declaration that "she was not related to her own child." But they did +not recognise the occupancy, and whenever a white man settled upon +a portion of the ground they pulled down his fences and removed his +landmarks. The contest is still going on, but no one who is acquainted +with the history of the colony will doubt what the end will be; and +it is coming soon, or it is to come, the moment the colonists are bent +upon taking the land, and when it is desired to do so. + +"It but feebly expresses the judgment formed from what we have observed +to say that we regard the experiment made in this school to educate and +improve Indian children as in every way a very remarkable success." _Si +sic omnes!_ Why does not the United States Government, or if not the +Government, the people, abounding in wealth, full of pious impulses, +humane, charitable, who justly say that the worst use you can make +of an Indian is to hang him; why do not the political economists who +declare that it costs a million of dollars to get rid of an Indian with +gunpowder and lead; why do not the enterprising and wealthy capitalists +who desire to appropriate Indian Reservations all combine to extend the +work of these schools so as to absorb all that remains of the Red Man +in the rising generation amongst the citizens of the great Republic? 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About the + very time that we were on our way to the wharf to embark on + board the "_City of Berlin_," the murderer of the President + was accomplishing his purpose. But with all the means and + appliances which exist for the despatch of news, I believe + that the commission of the crime was not known till the + steamer had passed out to sea from the Sand Heads. + + [C] _See also_ Rose Library. + + + + +London: + +SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, & RIVINGTON, + +CROWN BUILDINGS, 188, FLEET STREET, E.C. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Hesperothen; Notes from the West, Vol. +II (of 2), by W. H. 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Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm +concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared +with anyone. For forty years, he produced and distributed Project +Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. + +Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. +unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + + www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. diff --git a/old/44333-0.zip b/old/44333-0.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0fe0cf3 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/44333-0.zip diff --git a/old/44333-8.txt b/old/44333-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..1f3c555 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/44333-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,7518 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Hesperothen; Notes from the West, Vol. II +(of 2), by W. H. Russell + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Hesperothen; Notes from the West, Vol. II (of 2) + A Record of a Ramble in the United States and Canada in + the Spring and Summer of 1881 + +Author: W. H. Russell + +Release Date: December 1, 2013 [EBook #44333] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HESPEROTHEN, VOLUME II *** + + + + +Produced by Melissa McDaniel and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive) + + + + + + + +Transcriber's Note: + + Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the original document have + been preserved. Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. + + Italic text is denoted by _underscores_. Bold text is denoted by + =equals signs=. + + On page 26 Count Fritz Thumb should possibly be Count FritzThumb. + + On page 120 Indianopolis should possibly be Indianapolis. + + On page 124, General How should possibly be General Howe. + + A triangle symbol in the text is represented as [**triangle] + + + + + HESPEROTHEN; + NOTES FROM THE WEST: + A RECORD OF A + RAMBLE IN THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA + IN THE SPRING AND SUMMER OF 1881. + + BY + W. H. RUSSELL, LL.D. + BARRISTER-AT-LAW. + + IN TWO VOLUMES. + + VOL. II. + + LONDON: + SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, & RIVINGTON, + CROWN BUILDINGS, 188 FLEET STREET. + 1882. + + [All rights reserved.] + + + + + LONDON: + PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, + STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING CROSS. + + + + +CONTENTS OF VOL. II. + + + CHAPTER I. + + ARIZONA. + + Deming--The Mirage--Ruined Cities--American + Explorers--Self-Tormentors--Animals and + Plants--Yuma--California--Los Angeles--Santa Monica--The + Pacific Page 1 + + + CHAPTER II. + + THE YOSEMITE VALLEY. + + A new Land of Goshen--A Jehu indeed--The Drive to Clarke's--A + Mountain Hostelry--Grizzlies--Fascination Point--The + Merced--Yosemite Fall--A Salute--Mountain Airs--The Mirror + Lake--"See that Rattle?"--A Philosophic Barber 19 + + + CHAPTER III. + + SAN FRANCISCO. + + The Palace Hotel--General McDowell--Palo-Alto--The + "Hoodlums"--The real Sir Roger--Exiles in the Far West--The + Chinese Population--For and Against them--The Sand Lot--Fast + Trotters--The Sea-Lions--The Diamond Palace--The Coloured + Population--"Eastward Ho!" 44 + + + CHAPTER IV. + + CALIFORNIA TO COLORADO. + + Los Angeles--Mud-geysers--"Billy the Kid"--General + Fremont--Manitou, the Garden of the Gods--Desperadoes--Bob + Ingersoll--Denver City--Leadville--Grand Cañon 73 + + + CHAPTER V. + + KANSAS TO ST. LOUIS. + + Liquor Law--Kansas Academy of Science--An Incident of + Travel--A Parting Symposium--Life in the Cars--St. Louis to + New York 107 + + + CHAPTER VI. + + NEW YORK--NEWPORT--DEPARTURE. + + Coney Island--Newport--Bass-fishing--Habit of + Spitting--Brighton Beach--Newport Coaching--Extra + Ecclesiam--Victories of American Horses--Newport + Avenues--Return to New York--Our Last Day in America 122 + + + CHAPTER VII. + + RETURN TO EUROPE. + + The "_City of Berlin_"--The Inman Line--The Service at Roche's + Point--Queenstown Discomforts--A sorry Welcome Home 140 + + + CHAPTER VIII. + + SOME GENERAL REFLECTIONS. + + Education--Free Schools--Influence of Money in + Politics--Corruption in Public Life--Crime on the Western + Borders--The Great Rebellion--Anniversaries--Great Courtesy to + Strangers--Manners and Customs 151 + + + CHAPTER IX. + + THE RED MAN AND HIS DESTINY. + + Captain Pratt--Carlisle Barracks--An Indian Bowman--The Indian + Question--The Pupils' Gossip--The "School News"--Indian + Visitors--The White Mother--The India Office--White and + Red--Quo Quousque?--Indian Title Deeds--The Reservations--The + Indian Agencies--Missionary Efforts--The Red Man and the Maori + 186 + + + + +HESPEROTHEN. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +ARIZONA. + + Deming--The Mirage--Ruined Cities--American + Explorers--Self-Tormentors--Animals and + Plants--Yuma--California--Los Angeles--Santa Monica--The + Pacific. + + +_May 30th._--At an hour as to which controversy might arise, owing to +the changes of time to which we have been subjected, the train, which +had pulled up but seldom during the night, stopped at Deming Junction, +where the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fé Railroad "connects" with +the Southern Pacific, on which our cars were to be "hauled" to San +Francisco. Jefferson time and San Francisco time differ two hours, so +at one end of the station we scored 6 A.M., and at the other 8 A.M. +The sooner one gets away from Deming in any direction the better. A +year ago--as is usually the case hereabouts--there was not a trace of +a town on the dry ugly plain covered with prickly acacias and "Spanish +bayonets"; now Deming flourishes in gaming and drinking saloons, +express offices, and all the horrors of "enterprise" in the West. The +look-out revealed a few tents, wooden shanties, a station, at which +workmen were running up a frame-house, ground littered with preserved +provision tins, broken crockery, adobes and refuse of all sorts. At +the door of one hut, swarming with flies, swung half a carcase of beef; +two women were washing, pale-faced, but not uncheerful creatures, who +had not a good opinion of Deming and its population. "They carry out a +dead man a day, or used to," said one informant. The lady washerwomen +did not quite corroborate the figure; but, remarked the chattier +of the two, "there was a considerable shewtin' about last night!" +To the observation of one of the party that he was "going to have a +look about," the other lady made reply, "I guess if you dew it will +be 'hands up' for ten cents with you." On the platform was a United +States marshal, with a revolver stuck in his belt, but his duties were +considered to be punitive rather than preventive. Here Mr. Chase and +Mr. Hawley left us to return to Topeka. At the abschiednehmen Sir H. +Green was affected by a proof of interest in his welfare of a touching +character and very full of local colour; one of our friends beckoned +to him, took him aside, and pulling out a revolver ("It is hands up!" +thought Sir Henry), fully loaded, pressed it on his acceptance in the +kindest manner as a useful _compagnon de voyage_. As we were not to +stay at Deming, the self-sacrifice was not consummated. + +The regular train having come up, our special was tacked on to it, and +in an hour the locomotive puffed out of the depot, and sped westerly +on its way at the rate of twenty miles an hour, across a plain some +fifteen miles broad, bordered by jagged, irregular mountain ranges +north and south, as dry as a bone--so dry that water for the engine +has to be brought to the stations in tanks. A scanty growth of what +looked like camel grass, interspersed euphorbias and cactuses of great +height, was all that met the eye. We are approaching the great basin of +Arizona, and are warned that much dust and great heat must be expected, +and that the "scenery" does not improve in point of variety or verdure, +both of which are nearly at zero. A vigorous, well-directed campaign +against the flies in the saloon gave us comparative repose; then the +blinds being pulled down, and the thermometer reduced to 83 deg., +society settled itself to study, with results indicated presently by +a gentle _susurrus_ on the sofas. A sudden alarm, "Look at the deer!" +There sure enough was a herd of antelopes flying over the scrub towards +the horizon, which flickered about in the heat in a mirage of islands +and uplifted mountain ends--so vanished. + +After passing Lordsburgh, a desolate spot in the desert, there appeared +a beautiful mirage. The sand became a sheet of water, waveless and +mirror-like, and in it we saw reflected in trenchant outline the +mountain range beyond. "It must be water! it is water!" exclaimed an +unbelieving director. And, lo! as he spoke the "dust devils" rose and +danced along the face of the sea; in another minute the vision was +gone; the dazzling sand, white, blank and dull, mocked our senses. +This was near Stein's Pass, up which the train of nine carriages +was climbing--"the heaviest train that has gone over yet," said the +triumphant conductor. "But we thought we'd try it." Each waggon weighed +30 tons. The Pass is three miles long, and we were working at a grade +of 74 feet with a 19-inch cylinder engine. + +Between Pyramid Station and San Simon (_stant nomina umbrarum_--the +names of mere shadows of stations) the western border of New Mexico +is crossed, and we enter the great Territory of Arizona, which lies +between the Rocky Mountains and the Sierra Nevada. + +It is bounded by New Mexico on the east, by Mexico on the south, by +Utah and Nevada on the north and north-west, and by California in +continuation of the western boundary. It is as large as New York, +Pennsylvania, Maryland, New Jersey, and Delaware together. Whom it +belonged to first, so far as occupation constitutes possession, I +know not; but the Spaniards owned and neglected it for more than +three centuries before the Americans possessed it. In 1848 and 1853 +the regions now forming Arizona, New Mexico, Colorado, Utah, and +Nevada were ceded by the descendants of the Spanish conquerors to +the conquering Anglo-American. It would need weeks of assiduous +travel to explore the portion of Arizona where the most interesting +ruins in America, the cities of the Zoltecs or the Aztecs--for the +experts differ respecting their origin--are to be found. The weight +of authority and of recent investigation leads one to believe that the +Aztecs were not the builders of these ruined cities. Humboldt, indeed, +believed that they were; but, as Mr. Hinton remarks, in his capital +little handbook, which I recommend to prospectors, emigrants, tourists, +and travellers, "to suppose such an utter abandonment of settled +habitations, it will be necessary to suppose some strange impelling +reasons, either in climate or other causes, that must have amounted +to a catastrophe. An hypothesis which would leave a whole race able +to conquer an empire, and to preserve power enough to abandon without +destruction their old homes, implies conditions and forces without +a known historical parallel." The conclusion that many native cities +were flourishing when the Spaniards arrived in America may, perhaps, be +questioned. There is a distinctive character about them, differing from +that of the Mississippi mounds, the Central American pyramids, or the +ruined cities of Yucatan. + +The site of one of these cities was pointed out to us from the +train, and that was all we saw of them. But I heard so much about +the mysterious remains that I was induced to procure Mr. Bancroft's +remarkable essay on the native races of the Pacific Coast. Mr. Bancroft +believes that the Pueblos and other Indians, in a state of civilisation +which they subsequently lost, were the earliest inhabitants of these +countries and the builders of the cities; that the Apaches came down +upon them, and their work being then aided by the Spaniards, this +original agricultural people were swept off the face of the earth. +But where the Apaches came from the American ethnologists have not, +I believe, determined. For hundreds of miles these ruins cover the +country--stone houses, ancient watch-towers, and adobe buildings, +around which are quantities of stone implements, masses of crockery and +pottery. In some places there are structures of wood and stone, without +iron, the masonry consisting of thin plates of sandstone dressed on the +edges, and laid in coarse mortar nearly as hard as the stone itself. + +The explorers who have discovered the most interesting cities in +Arizona and elsewhere were officers of the United States army. They +have been the true pioneers of American civilisation in the West, and +it is most creditable to them that they have been able to furnish so +much scientific and antiquarian observation in the execution of their +arduous and often painful duty in Indian warfare. There is no cold +shade cast upon the labours of officers who desire to make a little +reputation for themselves by contributions to scientific publications, +and by papers on natural history and the like in periodical +publications or in the daily press. + +There is, as might be expected from its position, a very high +temperature in Arizona. This lasts from the middle of June to the first +of October. During the best part of summer exertion of any kind is +impossible. Metal objects cannot be handled without producing blisters; +rain scarcely ever falls; and, to keep up the drain of constant +evaporation, a man must drink a gallon or two gallons of water a day. +Mr. Ross Brown, speaking of the summer, declares that "everything +dries. Waggons dry; men dry; chickens dry. There is no juice left in +anything, living or dead, by the close of summer. Officers and soldiers +creak as they walk; chickens hatched at the season come out of the +shell ready cooked. Bacon is eaten with a spoon, and butter must stand +in the sun an hour before the flies become dry enough for use. The +Indians sit in the river with fresh mud on their heads, and, by dint of +constant dipping and sprinkling, manage to keep from roasting, though +they usually come out parboiled." But, although it is recorded that a +party encamped on a narrow cañon where the temperature was 120 degrees, +there was no sunstroke. And in that respect the climate differs from +that on the eastern coast, where, especially this very summer, a great +number of deaths were caused by _coup de soleil_. People, with the +thermometer marking 94 degrees, talk of its being agreeably cold. An +exceedingly interesting fact, if it be one, connected with residence in +this part of the world is the wholesome effect of complete abstinence. +Death from want of water was by no means infrequent in the old days +before so many wells were dug; but it only occurs when there is a good +deal of humidity in the air. Although alcoholic drinks and tobacco have +an injurious effect, there is a large consumption of both at all the +stations and at the mines. + +As in the Orange River Free State, where probably the conditions of +temperature are not very dissimilar, pulmonary complaints are cured, so +a residence in Arizona, it is said, stops consumption; and there are +authentic statements that people who arrived in a rapid decline have +experienced almost immediate relief of the principal symptoms, and have +been finally cured. Governor Safford, in an official letter, states +that his lungs were a good deal diseased, and that he was suffering +with a severe cough when he reached Arizona, and that in six months his +cough left him. He is satisfied the warm, dry atmosphere acted like a +healing balm to diseased lungs, and that, the pores being kept open, +the impurities which attack weak organs escape through the skin. Dr. +Loryea, of San Francisco, and Dr. Sawyer aver that Arizona is nature's +Turkish bath, and that Yuma, that evil-looking place, contains the +fountains of health. + +Of such vast regions a small acquaintance acquired by passing rapidly +twice over a line of railway does not entitle one to speak; but, if +what we read and heard of Arizona be true, there is within its limits +enormous mineral and agricultural wealth. There are carboniferous +basins of great extent and richness. The mountains teem with ore. +Silver and gold, copper pyrites, zinc, and lead are to be found over +a great range, the extent of which is as yet imperfectly known. There +are sulphates of nearly all the metals; metallic oxides, chlorides, +carbonates, nitrates; agates, amethysts, garnets, and other precious +stones. People there are who believe that the diamond, the emerald, and +the ruby will turn up in due time. In fact, if one were to be guided +by the accounts in the papers or the guide-books, he would think that +a sure way of making an immediate fortune would be to settle down on +any hillside in this favourite land. Nevertheless, what I saw out of my +window gave me reason to suppose that there was poverty in Arizona as +well as in the old country. Nor did the buildings which I saw by the +way at the sparse stations and infrequent towns give an idea that the +in-dwellers were well-to-do in the world. The adobe, or burnt brick, +which is a common material in lieu of better, has always a ruinous +appearance. The houses built of it yesterday seem tumbling to pieces +from the influences of old age. + +We take no note of time save by its relation to constant motion, and +to the "programme"--a Procrustean bed on which we have voluntarily +placed our tortured limbs. Sometimes in the hours of the night, which +could not be called still because of the incessant pealing, rattling, +and thundering of the train, I thought of the wonderful ways of man +with himself in such affairs as we were now engaged in. There is a play +of Terence which was a trouble to me in my youth, so long ago that I +remember very little more of it than the dismal and elongated name; +but Mr. "Heautontimorumenos" never needlessly bound himself up in a +programme and delivered his life over to a time-table! It is likely +enough, seeing what sort of man he was, that he would have adopted +that course had he lived in these days. I admit that programmes are +necessary when your movements regulate, or have to be regulated by, +those of other people; and that was the case in some measure with +us, but the solicitude it occasioned the worthy and valued friends, +whose brows I perceived becoming more puckered, and whose faces and +spirits were heavy with cares connected with the programme, to come up +to time, was beyond belief, and I vowed if ever I had my own way with +the ordering of a party I would have no programme at all. And plot and +calculate as you will, a gale of wind, or a heated axle, or a broken +bridge, or a flood, upsets everything, and your schemes gang aglee +utterly! It was admirable to see how we were working out the destiny +we had made manifest for ourselves in advance so long ago, but the task +was not easy. What curious sounds, by the way, our train made at night! +One could now and then compose words to the tune of the wheels, and +the regular rhythm forced one at times to hum the words of a song, of +which the train seemed to hammer out the music. It seemed so strange to +be turning into bed night after night, and waking up to pass the same +life day after day, like a log of wood carried on by an interminable, +irresistible torrent. + +Provided with books and newspapers, and friends to converse with, as +well as with sights to see, we had, however, no reason to complain +that time hung heavy on our hands as the train sped on. The books +were very utilitarian, it is true--Reports of Chambers of Commerce, +statistics and papers connected with railway and commercial enterprise +and the like. But our directors took to that literature with avidity, +and aided by maps and tables, copiously furnished to them, seemed +bent on passing with honours in a competitive examination anent the +American railway system. There were always, close at hand in the cars, +competent authorities to answer questions, or able champions to engage +in controversy, and as I heard all the subtle contentions, which I did +not understand, concerning signalling and baggage checking, gauges and +engines, curves and gradients, freights and fares, I was set to think +what the field had been in which all the ingenuity and talent displayed +in dealing with such topics were exercised in pre-railway days. These +discussions were mostly connected with the consideration of profits +and percentages, and that was a neutral ground on which the combatants +manoeuvred their facts and figures as in a natural "_schauplatz_". +There were times when such investigations ran down like a clock, +and no one wound them up again for a few hours, and then my friends +digested the remains they found on the field of battle and strengthened +themselves for friendly jousting. + +Not very long ago there would have been exceedingly good sporting in +many parts of Arizona. Grizzly bears, common and black bears; pumas, +mountain sheep, jaguars, ocelots, opossums, panthers, wolves, and +lynxes are largely distributed over the hill ranges. There are also +hares and rabbits and many smaller animals. Wild turkeys have much +diminished of late years; but there is a variety of birds, some of +them excellent for the spit. The chase, however, is attended with some +danger, unless one is very well booted and looks out where he treads, +as rattle-snakes abound, and are of exceeding virulence, the black +species being especially deadly. There are horned toads, but these are +harmless. + +For the botanist Arizona is an almost inexhaustible field of +delight. Any one who likes to read of vegetable wonders, or of an +extraordinarily varied flora, cannot do better than get Dr. Loryea's +work, or read 'New Mexico,' by Elias Brevoort. The growth which struck +us most was that of the extraordinary cactus called the candelabra +or Sahuaro. It is worth while going so far as the railway will take +one to see these plants sticking up on the sides of a rock without a +trace of verdure or moisture, rising to the height of 40 or 50 feet, +and throwing out enormous arms at the most grotesque angles, each +varying from the other in shape, the number of its arms, and in the +manner in which they are disposed. This giant cactus is covered with +prickles, and is of a light green colour. It is said that in the old +days the Apache Indians not unfrequently made use of them as handy +means of torture, and nailed their victims to a cactus previous to +setting fire to it. The body of the plant is resinous, and it can +be easily converted into a bonfire. Here and there we saw some with +traces of pale yellow flowers. When these are gone there is a fruit, +which makes an excellent preserve, or can be boiled into sugar. Then +there are prickly pears in great quantities; and there is a "negro-head +cactus," with a round top covered with sharp spines, which furnished +the Mexicans with fish-hooks. "There is a soul of beauty in things +evil." If a thirsty traveller coming upon one of these plants kindles +a fire around it, the juices of its body are gradually concentrated +into a central cavity, where they only wait incision to be liberated +in the form of a pleasant drink, half a gallon or more in quantity. +The appliances for getting a drink out of most of these roots are +described at length in various books of travel; but however useful they +may have been at the time, the activity of the Atchison, Topeka and +Santa Fé Railway will in all probability exempt travellers in future +from any necessity to avail themselves of these ingenious devices. +Trees flourish in spite of the heat and want of water. As various as +the trees are the human inhabitants, and one of the greatest marvels +connected with them, perhaps, is the extraordinary variety of dialects +amongst people of the same race, who lived in the same country long +before the white man came to trouble them. They are decreasing, of +course, in numbers; but in some of the reservations they seem to +have arrested downward progress, and to have taken to some form of +agricultural labour. At present Arizona is the happy hunting-ground +of the unfortunate red man. There is, I am assured, no disposition on +the part of the whites to intrude upon the reservations of the various +tribes. I did not hear of any one who had come in from the East to +settle with the view of making his fortune by farming; but miners have +flooded the cañons, and climbed the mountain-tops; and now they have +settled down into a steady way of life without any big "booms," as the +Americans say, but with prospects of pretty certain returns for their +labour. + +All night we travelled on, and when the morning came, we were still +traversing the desert, still passing through one of the most sterile +wastes on the face of the earth, where, however, by strange contrasts +of nature--or is it strange?--there were in the mountains and in the +ravines rich ores to tempt the cupidity and enterprize of man. We are +continually reminded of similar wastes in India and in Africa; but no +one, as far as I know, has yet discovered any mineral wealth in the +north-western deserts of our Indian Empire. And although Captain Burton +and others have fancied they have come across an El Dorado in Southern +Egypt, and Ibrahim Pasha had such faith in the existence of gold in +those regions that he led forth an expedition to perish there, there +is no such fortune in store for the adventurous miner as awaits him in +Arizona, Colorado, and California. + +_June 1st._--Everyone who has entered Arizona, or left it--and let us +hope he went back all the better for his visit--will recollect Yuma for +ever. + +Yuma is on the Colorado, which divides California from Arizona. +The muddy waters of the river rush with immense velocity past the +buttresses of the fine bridge, with a draw for steamers, that spans +it. The town consists apparently of adobe houses, and these not very +regularly built. I could not visit the main street for lack of time, +but the offshoots within eyeshot of us were not tempting. All we +could see from the railway windows were flat-roofed adobe houses, some +squalid Indians nearly naked, the buildings, with the Stars and Stripes +over them, of the United States post on the left bank, and a few wooden +sheds. It is said to be one of the hottest places in the world, and +certainly looked dry and dusty. They say that a soldier who died there +and went to an unmentionable place, returned in the spirit to beg for +a blanket, as he felt so cold! + +More happily constituted travellers than most of us have seen something +pleasing in the aspect of the country roundabout, and have been moved +to much admiration by the various tints of the hills in the distance, +and by the rocks which constitute the near limits of the valley through +which the river passes. In the old days, when the stage-coaches offered +the only means of travelling through the district, there might have +been a good deal to see along the road; but the rail generally avoids +sights, and where nature is at its best, the engineer strikes deep down +and burrows if he can. The colours of the hills are bright and varied; +the lava rocks are of many shades, and the sun, piercing through strata +of pure air, illuminates them with great vividness and force; but after +a time the eye tires of the uniform hues of the landscape. For a few +miles the rail runs close to the river, then plunges into the most +remorseless, cruel waste of sand and rock, spread out up to the foot of +the rugged hills of the Barnardino Range, I ever beheld--an abomination +of desolation compared with which the Libyan Desert or the plains of +Scinde were the Garden of the Hesperides. I cannot describe, nor could +I at any time hope to succeed in giving an adequate conception of this +dreadful wilderness. For 107 miles west there is not a drop of water to +be found; the stations are dependent on the railway for their supplies. +But Nature, as if to take away the reproach of permitting such a vast +blotch on her fair face, kindly threw in Fata Morgana. We saw with +delight widespread lakes with fairy islands in the midst; placid seas +washing the base of the distant hills. This baked and dreary expanse +extends nearly to San Gorgonio. We were spared the sandstorms which are +so dreadful, nor did we experience inconvenience from the dust. The +traveller, who has begun to despair of ever seeing anything greener +than giant cacti and the adamantine vegetation which dispenses with +water, is agreeably surprised as he approaches Los Angeles. If he +be as fortunate as we were in having such friends as Colonel Baker +and his wife to take charge of him, he will be amply repaid for far +greater discomforts than any he experienced in the Colorado desert. +From Los Angeles there is a railway to Santa Monica, seventeen miles +distant, which belongs to Colonel Baker; and I would advise every one +who can, either to spare or make the time for a diversion to that +most delightful spot. Judge of the pleasure we felt when, after a +picturesque run through orange groves, vineyards, and fields of corn +and barley, we gazed on the waters of the Pacific--"[Greek: thalatta! +thalatta!]" What a glorious scene! the broad bay lighted by the rays +of the declining sun; the blue waves rolling on in solemn march, +and breaking in long lines of foam on the dazzling sand, and nearer +still the gardens and trees of the Pacific Biarritz which was about +to welcome us! Our palace-car and its attendant carriages shot into a +siding close to the beach. In a few minutes "every man Jack" was off to +the bathing establishment to conform to the regulations ere we plunged +into the sea. It is an orthodox bathing-place of the highest order. The +Baths are extensive, and provided with every convenience and comfort +for ladies and invalids; hot and cold, salt water and fresh, for those +who do not like to trust themselves to the sea. A rope extended seaward +to hold on by was needful, for the surf was heavy and the undertow +strong. The water was delicious. Generally there is less sea on, and it +is never too hot or too cold for bathing. Next morning we had another +bath in a still rougher Pacific. The Duke and some of the party were +driven about the country by Colonel and Mrs. Baker, and at 3 P.M., to +our sorrow, we left the most lovable little spot of all we have seen +on this continent. Good fortune be in store for Santa Monica! At Los +Angeles, where carriages were waiting, we drove through the streets and +suburbs, which enabled us to appreciate the reasons which induced the +Spanish founders to give the city its name. In the evening we continued +our journey, passing in the dark over the feat of engineering called +the Loop. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +THE YOSEMITE VALLEY. + + A new Land of Goshen--A Jehu indeed--The Drive to Clarke's--A + Mountain Hostelry--Grizzlies--Fascination Point--The + Merced--Yosemite Fall--A Salute--Mountain Airs--The Mirror + Lake--"See that Rattle?"--A Philosophic Barber. + + +_June 2nd._--It is astonishing how soon one gets accustomed to the +rattle and rumble of the rail, and sleeps all the night through after +a time, waking up only when a train stops at a station, just as a +miller is roused by the cessation of the clock of the mill-wheel. We +keep good hours, and so at 4.30 this morning I was looking out of the +window at a sea of blue mountain ridges upon the west, which looked +like the waves of the ocean, so varied in the serrated edges was the +line of stony waves which seemed as if they were about to sweep down +over the great stretch of prairie. We were passing through a new land +of Goshen, at least that was the name which I detected on the station +board, indicating a junction with another line, and early as was the +hour the door of the hospitable restaurant was open, and gentlemen +in front were to be seen drawing their hands across their lips as if +they had been taking a refresher in the early morning. Close at hand +the country was perfectly flat, covered with glorious crops nearly +ripe for the sickle, and indeed cut and stacked in some places. Water +appeared abundant; a river flowing west was visible at intervals, its +course marked by a line of trees. Large black cranes stalked about in +the meadow-like fields, and hares sat up on end to take a look at the +train. The paucity of human beings, except at the rare stations, was +remarkable; only when I say "rare," perhaps I am scarcely justified, +as there were little wooden huts at intervals perhaps of ten or twelve +miles, where a saloon announced itself, and a possible ticket-office. + +On the east of the plain through which the line runs, the peaks of +the Sierra Nevada were visible, but the journey was rather monotonous +all the same, and we were glad when our train halted at Madera, about +ninety miles from Goshen, where we were to get out and start on our +expedition to the Yosemite Valley. Especial arrangements had been +made for our conveyance, but I almost doubt now whether it would not +have been better for us to have taken the ordinary carriage which +leaves Madera every day, except Monday, for the Yosemite Valley, at +7.45, arriving at Clarke's or Bruce's in somewhat less than twelve +hours, so as to bring daylight with it to the halting-place; a very +desirable thing, as we soon found out. It was 8 o'clock before our +party started from Madera, in two Kendal carriages with four horses +each. In one was the Duke, Lady Green, Mr. Stephen, and myself, with +Crockett on the box; in another were Sir Henry Green, Mr. Wright, Major +Anderson, and Mr. Jerome. Our driver was a man with the impossible +name of MacLenathan, a resolute, dry, taciturn man, with a good face, +seamed with the exposure to sun and rain of many years on the box. +But he told us he had deserted it lately, and had taken to the work +of livery stable keeper, only coming out on this occasion as driver to +do honour to the Duke. As it turned out, it was well his right and his +left hand had not lost their cunning. The driver of the other carriage +was a noted character, rejoicing in the name of "Buffalo Bill," and +later on we had reason to feel very thankful to him also for the +possession of great pluck and nerve. For some ten or twelve miles the +route, which consists of mere wheel tracks over the prairie, runs over +moderately undulating land. On the right there is a shoot or _flume_ +for carrying down timber from the upper part of the mountain ridge +fifty miles away. The dust was troublesome, and the rapid motion of +the four horses scarcely saved us from the roasting sun. The scenery +was not interesting; indeed, the great object of attraction was the +little Californian quail with his pretty crest, running across through +the grass or jumping up upon a stump to have a look at the travellers. +Stage stables were far apart, but the speed was fair, and it was +astonishing to see the excellent condition in which the horses were +at the end of their long canter, and what capital steeds were taken +out of the stalls, in which they were feeding on barley-straw, to +be put into the traces. I think the average length of the stages was +about twelve miles. We lost about an hour at a little mining village +where we halted for dinner, a place called Coarse Gold, as well as +I recollect, consisting of the usual buildings, a few shanties, the +store, the hotel, far better than might have been expected, and a sort +of wigwam or one-storeyed house, in front of which were assembled a +number of "Digger Indians," degraded specimens of a degraded tribe. +They sat looking at the new arrivals in the most apathetic manner, +just as they might regard so many flies. The men were dressed in a +compromise of old Indian attire, leather leggings and deerskin jackets, +with European clothing, caps, bad hats and trousers, and old boots, +the women swathed ungracefully in what seemed to be pieces of blanket, +their legs encased in folds of dirty cotton. One of these Diggers was +very slightly dressed, and as it is intensely cold in the winter, we +asked him whether he did not feel the effect of the frost and snow. +He knew a little English, and made the most of it. "When your body is +covered you do not feel the cold," he said; "But your face is always +uncovered, and yet you do not feel the cold there. An Indian's body is +all face." And that was all the explanation he would vouchsafe to us. +Somehow or another, what with delays at the stations, possibly caused +by our being out of the regular running, and being an interpolation on +the ordinary course of travel, and possibly owing to our reduced speed, +for the carriages with four horses did not, it seems, go as fast as +the public conveyance with six, it was getting dark as we approached +the line of wooded hills, in a valley in which, many miles away, lay +our halting-place for the night. The result of our delay in starting, +concerning which the driver had been severe from time to time, was +startlingly manifest as the coaches mounted the steep ascents of one of +the most tortuous roads in the world. The spurs of the hills come down +very sharply to the valley, and the road is carried round by a series +of very severe gradients following the contour of the mountain-chain, +so that at one time there is a deep gorge on your left, and then, as +the road leaves that spur with the valley on that side and crosses to +another spur, there is a great descent on the right, so that you are +continually passing along by a series of precipices, to which, in our +case, the fast gathering gloom imparted additional horror. Through the +sighing of the wind in the trees aloft came the roar of the torrents +down below. The drivers went along at a good steady canter, and from +time to time, as we came round a sharp curve, I dare say the thought +was in every one's mind, what would happen if one of the leaders +fell, or if the driver slipped his hand in gathering up the reins to +go round the corner. The scenery became more wild and formidable, so +to speak, at every fresh turn. The colossal trees, which challenged +admiration in the daytime, closed up in greater volume, darkening the +narrow road completely, so that in an hour after entering upon the +mountain-range it became as black as pitch. The lamps of Buffalo Bill +in the leading carriage were some guide to our driver. He had none, +and it was with anxiety, renewed every ten minutes or so, that we saw +the lights in front describe a graceful curve, which showed that they +were passing by one of the dips or cuts of the road. It needed skill +and judgment for MacLenathan to conduct the carriage, because if he +drove too close to that in front of us, the clouds of dust obscured +the view, and if he dropped too far behind he lost the benefit of the +lights. By enormous trunks of trees, by piles of timber, through deep +cuttings in the rock, plashing over watercourses, descending swiftly +into river-beds, and splashing through the fords over boulders, then +climbing up steep hillsides, on and on, it seemed as though the night +would never come to an end, and we inwardly, and audibly too, expressed +our regret that we had not started a little earlier; but still there +was an almost pleasurable excitement in holding on as we swept round +one of these terrible gorges, and tried to look down into the gulf +beneath. That last stage seemed interminable, but towards 9 o'clock at +night the driver of the coach in front announced that we were getting +"near at last"; and lucky it was, for his lights were giving out. "It +is just as well that they did not," said our driver, "because it would +be bad for you." "Why?" "Well," he said, "you would just have to get +out and walk! I would not undertake to drive any one in the dark along +such a road as this." Presently we heard the noise of rushing water, +and gained the bank of a stream flowing with swiftness over a shingle +bed. This we crossed, and in half an hour more, through the dark belt +of trees in front, lights were discerned, and, crossing another stream +and a bridge, our wearied horses were pulled up in front of the hotel, +a large wooden building, on the steps of which were the landlord and +his staff, and most of the inmates turned out to greet and inspect +the travellers who had been long expected. "It is a bad country to go +driving about in the dark," said Mr. Bruce, the landlord, a sentiment +in which we thoroughly agreed. There was a supper in the common +room, to which, albeit the fare was primitive enough, we did ample +justice. Travellers have complained of the charges along the road, but, +considering the distance which all articles have to be carried to the +Valley, the heavy duties, and the shortness of the season, I do not +think that any one with experience of Swiss inns would complain much; +and if the traveller desires to drink claret, he must not be astonished +if he pays eight or nine shillings a bottle for it. The ordinary fare, +at hotel prices, is quite good enough for hungry people, and eggs, +milk, and bread are abundant, and not dear. The bedrooms, sufficiently +simple in all their appointments, are good enough to be welcome to +tired people, for there is a fair bed to lie upon, and the sheets, as +far as our experience went, were clean and fresh. Nor were the insect +horrors, of which we may have some knowledge in parts of Europe, to be +dreaded, not even mosquitoes at this time of year. + +Soon after dawn a thunderstorm broke over the valley, hail and torrents +of rain, and the landlord congratulated us upon the cooling effect +it would have on the air, and on the absence of dust, which is rather +troublesome at times. It was necessary to make an early start in the +morning, for it is a long journey to the Yosemite. For some years past +the Valley has become a kind of American Chamouni, and if Americans +swarm over Europe in search of the sublime and beautiful, they cannot +be accused of neglecting altogether their own country. The first thing +I saw, on walking out on the verandah of the hotel, was the stage-coach +and six horses, with eight ladies and nine gentlemen, loading up for +the Valley. They had arrived late the night before, a little in advance +of us, and yet the ladies, bravely attired for the road, were all in +their place in the _char à bancs_ long before 7. Travellers frequently +stay at Bruce's, and our host promises good sport to any one who will +make it his headquarters; but I cannot speak with any confidence on +that point myself; still I should think it a very pleasant quarter for +a man who had nothing else to do, and who had an aptitude for climbing, +to go about looking out big game. We heard talk of pheasants, but +saw none: the bird which is called by that name not being entitled +to it, according to ornithologists. In front of the hotel was laid +out the skin of a cinnamon bear, which had been shot by an Austrian +gentleman--"Count Fritz Thumb," the landlord called him--a few days +previously, and which was to be sent after him as a trophy of his +skill. "But," says Boniface, "it was not he shot him at all; it was 'is +old Injun hunter." Grizzlies, he said, were rare, but they were to be +found if you went up high enough, and as he spoke he pointed up to the +mountains towering away in the distance in grand Alpine proportions. +Deer were common enough, and there were some tame specimens of the +ordinary black deer running about in the enclosure. We had an early +start, but not quite so early as the Americans; and it was wonderful +how well our four hardy horses did the first stage, six and twenty +miles, including some very sharp ascents from the Hotel. + +From time to time we got out and walked up the sharp bits, diverging +to the right or left to gather the lovely flowers which grew on +the roadside, or halting to admire the giant trees which clothed +the mountain ridges. Pitiable ignorance! not to know the names of +the plants or shrubs or wonderful bunches of blossoms, among which +fluttered the most magnificently coloured butterflies. Woodpeckers +of many different species uttered their quaint notes in jerky flight +from tree to tree, or peered at the travellers from the shelter of +the branches. Firs, pines, and spruces of enormous size, and trees +to me unknown, formed a dense forest on each side of the road; but +now and then we caught glimpses of the stupendous ranges of the alps +beyond. It was lamentable to see the waste and wreck wrought in this +wondrous wealth of timber--reckless, wicked waste. Charred trunks +stood with leafless arms withered and black, or lay prone among the +ferns in myriads. This was, we were told, the work of shepherds, who +think nothing of setting fire to one of the finest trees in the world +to warm themselves for an hour, and are delighted with a conflagration +which may lay a hillside in ashes. And the Indians too are held to +have their share in the destruction. There was enough of timber wasted +and destroyed mile after mile to build a city. The nemesis must come; +already the alarm has been sounded, and the State authorities here and +elsewhere are trying to prevent the mischief. I have often had occasion +to regret my ignorance of botany _inter alia_; but never did I feel it +more than when I was walking up the road, on each side of which was a +carpet of flowers, a maze of shrubs and plants--dense brushwood--to not +one of which could I give a name. We arrived at the Halfway House at +12.35 as much pleased as the horses which brought us there so well at +the respite, for it was an awful "pull up," and the coachman did his +work at high pressure. In the course of our pilgrimage we had found a +very pleasant _divertissement_. The Major, Mr. White, and Mr. Jerome +had excellent voices, and from time to time they burst into song, +giving with great effect the quaint negro melodies, which are now made +familiar to us in London, from a very large _répertoire_; and so the +afternoon passed in quiet enjoyment as we climbed the hills on foot or +in the carriages--snatches of talk, exclamations of wonder and delight, +and outbursts of the 'Golden Slipper,' 'O! that 'Possum,' 'The Ark,' +'John Brown,' 'Tramp, Tramp,' and other choruses. + +It was near 4 o'clock when the driver, who had been silent for some +time, looking round at us occasionally as one who would say, "Wait a +little till I surprise you," suddenly pulling up, said, "Now, here you +are. This is Fascination Point! Won't you get down a bit?" And, lo! +there indeed lay before us a scene of indescribable grandeur. I know +nothing like the effect produced by Yosemite Valley when seen for the +first time from this point. It has a characteristic which no other +similar view I am acquainted with possesses. You take in at one glance +stupendous mountain-ranges, all but perpendicular, beyond which you see +the snowy crests of the great Sierra, the profound valley between them, +a long vista of extraordinary magnificence, of cascades and precipitous +waterfalls, and far down below a silvery river rushing through a +forest composed of the noblest trees in the world, with patches of +emerald-green sward and bright meadows. + +I see that by a slip of the pen I have miscalled the place from which +we got our first view of the wondrous scene. But I have a right to +change the name for my own use. What the driver said was "Inspiration +Point." I prefer my mistake, for the view inspires you with no feeling +save that of wonder and delight. These sublime scenes appear to be +beyond the reach of poetry. Niagara and the Yosemite have not yet +found a laureate. The peculiar and unique feature of the valley seems +to me to be the height and boldness of the cliffs which spring out +from the mountain-sides like sentinels to watch and ward over the +secrets of the gorge; next to that is the number and height of the +waterfalls; but it is only by degrees and by comparison that the mind +takes in the fact that the cliffs are not hundreds, but thousands +of feet high--that these bright, flashing, fleecy cataracts fall for +thousands of feet--that the rent which has been torn in the heart of +the mountains, till it is closed by the awful granite portals beyond +which no mortal may pass, extends for miles. I thought as I gazed +that it were pity to descend, lest a nearer view might destroy the +effect of that _coup d'oeil_; but the driver had regulated the period +for rapture. He whipped us up to our places by word of mouth, and +the carriages renewed their course, now striking by bold zigzags down +into the valley for our destination, which was still six miles away. I +shall not attempt to describe my own feelings, far less can I pretend +to tell what others, probably far more susceptible of the beauty and +grandeur of what we beheld than I am, may have felt at the succession +of the awe-inspiring revelations of the tremendous grandeur of the +Valley which came upon us. What is the use of rolling off a catalogue +of names and figures?--even the brush of the painter, charged with +the truest colours and guided by the finest hand and eye, could never +do justice--that is, could never give a just idea of these cliffs and +waterfalls. "El Capitan! Oh, that's the name, is it? Three thousand +three hundred feet high!" And then you try to take in what that means. +"And it's 3500 feet down to the Valley? Dear me!" "And that is the +Cathedral Rock? And those two peaks are the Spires? I don't exactly see +the resemblance; do you?" + +There was a sort of wail of delight from us all as we came on the +"Bridal Veil Fall"; and I do not think any one cared to know that it +was just 60 short of 1000 feet high! Surely one of the most graceful, +lovely _chutes d'eau_ on earth, lost though it be from view behind the +rocks at the close of its feathery flight! But there was no stopping to +look at anything; relentless Fate drove us down and on, till the wheels +rolled more evenly, and at last we came to the bed of the valley--some +1800 yards broad, opening out here and there yet wider--and we +rejoiced in the sight of the bright clear water of the Merced, child +of innumerable icy mothers, flashing, sparkling, dashing and brawling, +like a myriad Lodores, between her banks decked with flowers and +covered with forest trees. + +Suddenly there dashed out of a glade two cavaliers, and made full tilt +at the leading carriage. "To arms!" Not a bit of it! Nor banditti +or Injuns--of whom we had met one or two riding sullenly along to +the hunting-grounds--no, only two hotel touts armed with cards of +self-commendation, and not apparently in much rivalry, for when told +that we had engaged our hotel, they galloped off to waylay other +travellers, of whose coming they were apprized by our driver. Our +hotel, I may say by the way, gave us full contentment. The site was +admirable, commanding a full and near view of _the_ Fall of Falls--the +Yosemite--which had so fascinated our eyes that we could scarce divert +them to any other object--not "Widow's Tears," or "Virgin's Tears," +nor the "Three Brothers," not anything but the Yosemite! And so, when +our rooms were pointed out, we made off to the spot where the fine +cloudlike vapour rising above the tree-tops indicated the basin into +which the waters sought rest after their troubled leap. + +Our way lay through the usual gathering of stores, hotels, livery +stables for the horses and ponies needed for the excursions, and +curiosity dealers' shops, to the village street, as it may be termed, +shadowed by fine trees, under which reposed some Indians--one of whom, +an Amazon in yellow toga, went riding full gallop past us, her hair +falling in a black mat on her shoulders, sitting low, in Melton style, +regardless of poultry, children, and boulders, and vanishing in a cloud +of dust under the trees. Then we turned to the left and crossed the +river by a rustic bridge; and as I looked down into the dancing waters +certain shadow-like objects flew up against the current. "Trout?" +asked I. "Yes, they're trout. They take 'em--when they dew--five +pounds weight. The Injuns catch 'em. We don't understand it as well." +A short walk, with eyes ever up-turned, and we come out to a moraine, +and, clambering up over a mass of trunks of trees and decaying timber, +_the_ Falls were before us--I cannot write more--no adjective will do. +"Two thousand six hundred and thirty-four feet, mind!" says the voice. +"I don't care," thought we, "it's the most beautiful and wonderful +water-jump ever seen by human eye." "It only remains," as they say, to +state that there is first, falling over a sheet of granite straight as +a wall, a considerable river, which in the plunge comes down at once +1600 feet. There, in a basin of rock, it collects its scattered forces, +under cover of eternal spray and cloud, and then takes another header +of 434 feet to a barrier of granite, against which it rages for a mad +moment, till it swells over and escapes from control by another spring +of 600 feet sheer down--and now it is free, and rushes past at our +feet, a joyous flashing stream. + +We returned through the meadows from the Falls, and as I was walking +in advance of the party a snake wriggled across the path, which I +struck at instinctively with my stick, and was lucky enough to kill +at the first blow. I exhibited the carcass, or whatever a snake's +dead body may be, in triumph to my companions. Further on our way we +fell in with an old Frenchman who was carrying a basket of fruit from +his little garden to the inn. With all the courtesy of his country, +he offered to Lady Green the choicest in his little _corbeille_. He +came from Lorraine very long ago to prospect in the States, almost the +earliest of the pioneers, but he was still strong and active, and he +pointed with great satisfaction up to a white flag planted on a dizzy +height above, which he said he had placed with his own hands. The chief +livery stable keeper is a German named Stegman. The first ascent of the +Dome was made by a young Scotchman named Anderson, from Montrose; so +with Indians, Americans, Mexicans, Europeans, there is a very liberal +representation of the nations of the world, in the season, in the +valley. Mr. Hutchinson, the Conservator of the Valley--one with all +the enthusiasm of the American character in everything pertaining to +the country, aggravated in this instance by an intense admiration for +the valley over which he is appointed to watch--joined us at dinner in +the little inn. Full of information, bubbling over with anecdote and +illustration, and replete with all kinds of knowledge concentrated upon +the one object--the Valley--the Valley--and nothing but the Valley. +He knows its history since the time it was first discovered, and its +natural history and geological formation, and all about the Indians who +lived there and their traditions. It so happened that the Commissioners +of the State of California, who are bound to visit the public +domains, were also at the hotel, and so we had quite an unofficial and +ceremonious meeting; and presently, as we stood in front of the hotel +gazing up on the peaks, lighted up by the stars, and listening to the +thunder of the waterfall, a startling report burst out on the night, +and in another instant the echoes repeated from rock to rock were +crashing through the Valley with the roar of heaven's artillery. It +was the first gun of a salute ordered by the Commissioners to be fired +in honour of the Duke's arrival. The effect was very fine, but I doubt +whether I did not feel full of resentment at the outburst, very much as +the owls and night-hawks might have been expected to feel, if one could +judge from their cries. However, even a salute and echoes must come to +an end, and as we were to get up early to start for the Mirror Lake, we +turned in to bed at an early hour; not, however, to sleep, because the +indefatigable and numerous company in the public room, off which were +our bedrooms, were in high spirits, and the song and the dance, to the +accompaniment of an invalid piano, for some time asserted their sway. + +Mr. Hutchinson had the Duke out early, because it is one of the +obligations to see the sun rise, reflected in the Mirror Lake--if +you can. There is no fear of cloud or rain. In the Mirror Lake is +reflected--or was as we saw it--the precipice at the other side of the +Valley, the bulk of Mount Watkins (so called from a photographer who +has been daring and successful in his renderings of the Yosemite), and +all the surrounding scenery. Once a friend and I saw a cow on its back +in the air, by the shore of a Highland lake. The surface was smooth as +that of the Mirror before us now. It was flapping its tail from side to +side, and its forelegs were up in the sky. We could not make it out at +first. There was, in fact, a cow standing near the water of the loch; +and what we saw was a reflection of the animal, actually stronger and +better defined than the object itself. So it was with the reflections +in the Mirror Lake; but when the sun rose over the cliff and we looked +at the water, the glare was too dazzling. "It was," as Mr. Wright +remarked, "like the electric light." There were curious optical effects +produced, some being troubled with purple, others with green or yellow +in their eyes, after a vain attempt to look at the reflection, but that +did not last long. + +We returned to breakfast to make an early start for Union and Glacier +Points on ponies. Among the company at the hotel, introduced by Mr. +Hutchinson, there was a young lady who was well acquainted with the +Valley, and who proved to be a very agreeable companion in our mountain +ride; but it was not long ere she was candid enough to let it be known +that she did not visit the Yosemite out of love of the picturesque and +beautiful, but that she was interested in the sale of photographs of +the Valley, and was, in fact, a very persuasive and efficient agent of +a firm in San Francisco, who had thus established an outlying picket of +great activity and vigilance; and I am sure we all hope she may always +be as successful with the visitors as she was with us. Of what we saw +from the Glacier Point I must leave others to write or speak. It is +reached by a zigzag on the mountain-side--a peculium of the maker, and +all the "trails," as they are called, in the valley are the property +of individuals or firms who are paid by tariff, and we heard "Eleven +gone up before--Duke Sutherland, Lady Green, Sir Green, Mr. Wright, Mr. +Russell, Mr. Jerome coming! Sixteen coming up behind!" On the plateau +behind the cliffs, from which you look down on the Valley and at the +snowfields on the mountain ranges opposite, there is a log house and +shanty, and there we had a mountain meal ere we began the descent. + +Nothing in the way of riding is more disagreeable than going down +a very sharp mountain-side on a pony not, for all you know, very +sure-footed, and so instead of riding, I resolved to walk, now and +then taking a short cut, to the great discomfiture of feet and boots, +although it is three thousand feet to the bottom, and make the best +of my way and the most of the road, which is very fair, down the zig +zags. I reached the plain thoroughly hot and tired, and bathed in +perspiration, in fifty-seven minutes. The horsekeeper, who came down +with the rest of the party, seemed to have been affected by the rarity +of the atmosphere or something else up at the mountain hostelry, for +he insisted on it that I had ridden down, and demanded his horse. +"What the thunder, Russell, have you done with my horse?" he asked +again and again. Satisfied for the time by my assurances that I had +not ridden at all, he went off, and then, thinking over the matter, +came back again to repeat his question, till I told him I would not +answer it any more. He was an amusing fellow in his way, and affable. +He called the Duke "Sutherland," now and then putting Mr. before it. +As he was watering his horses, he said: "Here, Mister Sutherland, lay +hold of the bucket, will you, whilst I take a turn at this one." And +the Duke did so with alacrity. It was a day of incessant activity. No +sooner had the mountain party come down than they were off again to +drive through the Valley. The rest of our party had already executed +masterly investigations at the foot of all the waterfalls; admired +the Bridal Veil and the Widow's Tear, as one cascade is satirically +termed, "because," says the guide, "it dries up in six months;" had +driven and ridden everywhere and seen everything, and we had to do the +same; but it would need a week of conscientious work to exploit the +Valley thoroughly. At half-past 7, the dinner hour, the little inn was +swarming with people; the stage had arrived with fresh contingents. +Every place was full, and what with the clatter of knives and forks, +the clamour of waiters, the tumult of voices laughing and talking, +it was scarcely possible to conceive that a few short years ago this +valley was in the exclusive possession of the Indian and the wild +beast. There is now, however, a great conflict of interests, and Mammon +is holding his revels in the Valley. The State has voted a certain +sum of money, twenty-five thousand dollars, I think, to buy up the +interests of the trail-makers; that is, those who struck out and made +paths to the various objects of attraction; but no success has yet been +attained in the negotiations, and, indeed, I should think it a very +bad investment for most of them to accept their share of such a sum. +Macaulay, for example, who made the path up to the point from which +we descended to-day, must make many hundreds of dollars in the height +of the season, as he charges so much a visitor, and, besides, has a +restaurant where they take their meals at the top. + +Next day (June 5th) we left the Yosemite with the satisfactory +assurance that we had made the most of our time, though we could not +believe we had done it justice. There were some small "nuages" on the +face of our "Mirror Lake," caused by changes in the mode of conveyance; +but we found six horses and one of the coaches of the country were +better than four horses and two carriages of less capacity. Yosemite, +I may tell my readers, means "Grizzly Bear" (it may be "Great Grizzly +Bear"); but we only heard of one having been thereabouts for a long +time, and I believe it was thoroughly tamed. After a glorious day in +the woods, clambering up the steep from the Valley, and then on by the +road--the only one--to Clarke's, halted there for the night, when we +returned from a ceremonious visit to the "Big Trees." We had a most +delightful ride from Bruce's, and a hard canter back through the woods +on capital ponies, full of life and action, and very sure-footed, but +rather inclined to have their own way, which was not always that of +the rider. We turned into bed at Bruce's, quite delighted with our +expedition, and rather anxious to see the road we had traversed in the +dark by the garish light of day. Every traveller's tale, and every +guide-book of recent date relating to this part of the world, has a +full account of the dimensions, number, appearance, and condition of +these wonders of the world. They are either prostrate, mutilated, or +decaying; not one has survived the stormy life he must have led for +some 3000 years--a few hundreds more or less do not signify. Those +which remain upright are scarred by fire and lightning, and drop their +monster arms, hung with ragged foliage and sheets of bright moss, +mournfully over the ground where their trunks will repose in time to +come. I cannot conceive any object of the kind so magnificent as one +of those Washingtonias in the full vigour of mature treehood; but we +could only fancy what it must have been like by measuring the stems, +for there was not anywhere in the forest a tree to be seen which had +not suffered. The best way to visit the scene--for it may well be +called so--is to strike out from the road on the way to the Yosemite +before the halt at Bruce's; but the hotel-keepers and stage-drivers +will persuade the stranger, if they can, to defer the excursion till +his return from the Valley, so as to make a half-day more out of him. + +_June 6th._--All up at 5 o'clock, and off soon after 6 A.M. The first +stage, eleven miles, we did in two hours and ten minutes--a very +pretty road; the second stage, eight miles, in forty-four minutes. The +ravages made by fires are most deplorable. We had passed through this +great forest track in the dark, but now seen in the morning light, the +trunks of magnificent trees rotting on the ground, or standing upright +with lifeless arms, consumed at the base, were visible everywhere. +It is difficult to find out the exact truth about the cause of these +fires. Some few people said "it was the Indians," but the weight of +testimony attributes them to the shepherds, who for the most trifling +purposes kindle a great fire. In some of the large trees they have +hollowed out regular chambers, and of course the tree dies. Such waste +of timber! For mile after mile we passed scenes of desolation which +ere long those who allowed them will have cause to regret. From time +to time we encountered on the road trains of waggons drawn by teams of +handsome mules with bells, and had occasion to admire the economy of +labour exhibited in the management, by which the driver is enabled to +work a powerful break with one hand whilst he drives with the other. +The next stage, of fourteen miles, was over an exceedingly bad road; +but the horses were good, and we rattled along at a capital speed down +towards the plain. Once the quick-eyed driver, pulling up suddenly, +said, "See that rattle?" leaped down and made towards the bush; and +as we followed him, sure enough we heard distinctly the noise of the +snake, which he had intercepted on its way to a rabbit hole. It took +refuge in a clump of bushes with gnarled roots, and coiled itself round +one of the branches; but by a course of judicious and rather nervous +poking it was driven from its vantage ground, and trying to escape was +killed by the driver with a blow of his whip, followed by a good many +unnecessary strokes from the rest of the party. It was over three feet +long, and had just been making an evening meal upon a rabbit, which it +had left where we had startled it; and it was evident from its swollen +appearance that it had been for some time engaged in the warren close +at hand. + +At 10.20 we reached Fresno, which is what the Americans call "quite +a place," containing not only an hotel, a restaurant, and a store, +but a shop where photographs were exhibited. The _chef-d'oeuvre_, a +portrait of a Spanish lady 140 years of age, living at Los Angeles, did +not, however, commend itself to our taste. We halted at Coarse Gold at +11.40, and left at 12.35. Mr. Jerry Loghlan--who excused himself for +not working on the ground that "there was no use in it, as there was +nothing to be had," the mines being worked "out"--whose acquaintance we +had made on the way up, a huge, broad-shouldered _vaurien_, was still +hanging about with his specimens of quartz, gold, and rattlesnakes' +tails, and a black eye recently acquired in battle. + +After a long, hot, and dusty drive, it was with no small gratification +we made out on the flat the houses of Madera, and after a time the +carriages of the special train. The air is so bright and pure that the +distances are very deceptive, and it was nearly 5 o'clock P.M. before +we reached the station, which had been visible for more than an hour +previously. It was pleasant news to hear that the little German barber +at the way-side had got baths all ready. In the rear of his shop there +was a row of apartments, each provided with a clean zinc bath, hot and +cold water to turn on at discretion, and an abundance of towels. This +in the centre of a waste seemed very creditable to the civilisation +of the people. I should like to know in what part of Europe you would +get similar comfort under similar circumstances. I am afraid there are +many parts of the British Islands where a traveller would demand such +a luxury in vain. And the barber was there to shave those who needed +it, and to give you all the news of the day if you wanted it. He was +a Prussian, and he grinned from ear to ear as, in reply to my question +whether he had served, he said: "Serve, indeed! Not I. I came away and +escaped from all that nonsense. There is not a king or an emperor or a +prince that I would fight for. Why should I?" "But," said I, "you would +have to fight for the Republic here if it were in danger; and that +would not be fighting for your fatherland." "Yes," said he, "it would, +for this is my fatherland now. But I do not want to fight for it either +if I can help it. Fighting is nonsense." + +Our excellent stewards received us, if not with open arms, with smiling +faces. The carriages were trim and clean and fresh, the tables spread +out, and all kinds of dainties provided for the evening meal. We rested +quietly for the night in the siding at Madera, and got under weigh at +5 o'clock on the morning of June 7th, the train being timed so as to +reach San Francisco at 12.30. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +SAN FRANCISCO. + + The Palace Hotel--General McDowell--Palo-Alto--The + "Hoodlums"--The Real Sir Roger--Exiles in the Far West--The + Chinese Population--For and Against them--The Sand Lot--Fast + Trotters--The Sea Lions--The Diamond Palace--The Coloured + Population--"Eastward Ho!" + + +The British Consul, Mr. Booker, who has been watching over the +interests of the Queen's subjects for some thirty years here, and who +is an institution by himself, met the train at a place called, I think, +Porta Costa, and welcomed the Duke and his friends. There had been +for some days an infusion of the Chinaman in the general element of +life along the line, but here it became concentrated, and then ceased +to attract much attention. As the train approached the wide expanse +of muddy water from the Sacramento, which charges down with impetuous +volume, and colours the bay with its turbid stream, we could form an +idea of some of the advantages in the expanse of navigable river, that +had, however, lain long without appreciation but for the bright red +gold possessed by San Francisco. The bay is animated; white canvassed +craft stud its waters, and the smoke of steamers pollutes the clear, +bracing air. Italian fishermen are busy with line and net, and flights +of ducks and squadrons of gulls and cormorants show that the waters +are well stocked. It was too late in the year to see the country in +the full affluence of its wealth of fruit and crops, of hay and corn, +and the hillsides and fields are now disappointingly brown. Presently +we arrived at Oakland, where the train was run out on a pier 3500 +yards long, to the steam ferry-boat which was to convey us across +to San Francisco. The ferry-boat was crowded, for Oakland is a city +of some 50,000 people; and of course it had once on a time, not very +remote, only a few sheds and insignificant houses. From this side of +the bay the city of the Golden Gate, some miles away, was now visible +in all its pride of place--pride but not beauty, now at least--for the +city presents no great attraction to the eye. The streets, running in +parallel lines at right angles to the quay right up the sandy hillside, +look like the ribs of some stranded monster, "lank and lean and +brown." The most prominent object is the hotel to which we are going, +which towers far over the general level of house-top, steeple, and +factory-chimney. + +There is a little pamphlet, crammed with statistics and with an array +of figures and superlatives enough to daze one, given to the guests +of the Palace Hotel; but those who are in that happy category scarcely +need the information, and those who are not could not derive any idea +of the building from the repetition of the ciphers which are to be +found in the guide-book. The drawing on the outside affords the best +notion of the size, but only actual purview can enable one to judge +of the excellent arrangements, the service, the table. For once the +American idol "Immensity" is not overlaid. "'Tis blinding bright--'tis +blazing white! O Vulcan! what a glow!" Electric lights flooding the +court with brightness beyond description. And what a court! Sweetness +and light indeed! In the great quadrangle, 144 feet by 84, there are +fountains playing, groups of statuary, and exotic plants, and, tier +after tier, rise the pillared terraces outside the seven storeys of +which the main building consists, painted a lustrous white, shining +like purest Parian. There are 755 rooms, abounding in conveniences, +and comfortably luxurious. Each is provided with high-pressure hot and +cold water, and there is an elaborate system of ventilation, alarms, +conductors, pneumatic tubes, telephones, and "annunciators" for fire, +letters, servants, &c. The beds are excellent; the furniture admirable; +and this vast structure, 120 feet high, 275 feet broad, and 350 feet +deep, is not only fire, but--listen--"earthquake proof"; so says the +bill of fare, and so says ex-Senator W. Sharon, the proprietor. I have +not the least desire to test the truth of the averment, but if I must +be in a hotel when an earthquake visits the city in which I am, let me +be in the Palace, San Francisco. A man may live here in the enjoyment +of a pretty continuous series of meals and one of the best bedrooms +for four dollars a day, and there is a lower tariff of bed and board at +three dollars a day. + +_June 8th._--Our first day was rendered exceedingly pleasant by the +kindness of General McDowell. The weather did its very best to prevent +our enjoying it, and was signally defeated. San Francisco is perhaps +the windiest city in the world, and at this time of year there is +almost always a storm in the harbour, and a steady, powerful, and +somewhat chilly blast, setting in a little before noon, and lasting +throughout the day until nearly sundown, up the streets. The General's +aide-de-camps came over early to the hotel, in full uniform, in honour +of Major-General Green, but General McDowell appeared in mufti, which +eased us down a little. A powerful steamer, the "_General Macpherson_," +was prepared for the party, which was swollen by a considerable number +of gentlemen invited by our host to meet the Duke, and the gentlemen +from Topeka, who were included in the invitation. The excursion +afforded a favourable opportunity of inspecting the city defences. +From Alcatraz Fort, Point and Presidio Island batteries, which would +not be considered very formidable as far as armament is concerned, +although their position affords great advantages for torpedo defence, +salutes were fired in honour of Sir Henry Green. But in the case of +some of us the sight was marred by the rising sea, which increased to +an inconvenient height as the steamer reached the Seal Rocks, close to +the entrance to the bay. Of the seals I shall give an account farther +on. They did not seem to mind the steamer very much until she blew her +whistle, when many of them splashed into the sea. At the termination of +the trip, which lasted some four hours, General McDowell entertained +the party at his official quarters, which are beautifully situated on +a bluff overhanging the water of the bay. + +_June 9th._--We spent, in some respects, an abortive and deceitful +day; not, indeed, that there was anything disappointing about our +entertainment at Belmont, under the auspices of ex-Senator Sharon; +but that we started full of enterprise, and intent upon inspecting the +great works of the Spring Valley Reservoir, and of making an excursion +through what was described as a very beautiful county whence is +brought the water supply of the great city in which we were sojourning. +However, though we were baulked in the object of our expedition, the +day passed, and not in the least degree unpleasantly, and instead of +going to the Lakes we drove about the neighbourhood of Belmont, and +visited several country seats. + +No one who visits San Francisco should omit taking an early opportunity +of going to Palo-Alto to inspect the stock of General Stanford's +thorough-breds, and the breeding establishment, which as a sample of +perfect order and management cannot be surpassed. I cannot answer for +the figures, but I was informed that the owner spends 25,000_l._ a year +upon the maintenance of his stud and stables, and that he has not as +yet sold a colt or filly, or parted with a single animal; sires, mares, +and young brood now amounting to about 700 head. They are beautifully +housed in detached stables fitted up with every convenience that a +horse of the highest pedigree and most luxurious taste can desire. +I was particularly struck with the perfect silence which prevailed +throughout the stables. No shouts to "stand over there," and none of +that "----" (groom's expletive) which is so common in our country. +And partly owing perhaps to that mode of treatment, and to gentleness +in handling, all the horses without exception seemed tractable and +sweet-tempered. High-bred stallions stood out in the open for our +inspection, and allowed themselves to be rubbed and felt without even +laying down their ears or raising a hind-leg from the ground. In reply +to a question respecting a remarkably beautiful animal, which seemed to +have a little more fire in him, the head groom said "You may walk under +his belly if you like," and then and there he told one of the grooms +to do so, which the man did, without attracting any unusual degree of +attention from the animal. Outside one of the large blocks of stables +there is a kind of testing arena, in which we were told it was the +pleasure of General Stanford, when he was at home, to sit watching the +performance of his young horses. It is an ellipse, like a large circus, +bordered with a hoarding, and in the centre there is a raised stage for +the visitors, on which are revolving chairs. The riding-master, with an +attendant, performing the functions of the late Mr. Widdicombe, sets +the animal in motion, checking him when he breaks into a gallop. The +speed at which the animal trots the ellipse is known by the time marked +on a chronometer, and the fact is recorded for the information of the +inspectors, who can turn round their chairs and follow the action of +the horse as it trots round the ring. + +The district of the State in which Palo-Alto is situated boasts of +several residences of the Californian millionaires. One house which +we visited, I think belonging to Mr. Flood, furnished the most ornate +and beautiful examples of woodwork that were ever seen by any of the +party. The house, which was as large as a good-sized English country +mansion, is constructed of timber of the finest quality, beautifully +worked, painted and varnished; and with moderate care a mansion of this +kind will last, in this climate, a couple of hundred years, which to +the American mind is an eternity. There were artists from New York, +and the staff of an upholsterer and decorator of great renown from the +Empire City were still busily engaged in the place as we went through +the rooms. The magnificent halls, reception-rooms, billiard-rooms, +library, bedrooms, all fitted up with extraordinary luxuriousness, +but in a somewhat florid taste, were of wood, the doors of many of +the apartments arresting attention by their extraordinary beauty and +finish. The ceilings decorated in fresco by Italian artists, and bright +windows filled with stained glass gave an appearance of light and +grace to the whole residence. The kitchen arrangements were marvels +of ingenuity, and one envied the butler who would have such a pantry +as that which was displayed for our inspection. Some of the pictures +which were ready to be placed on the walls were remarkable, however, +only for the richness of their frames; and, indeed, we heard that +the excellent proprietor was not a man of very cultivated taste; a +child of fortune, in the prime of life and of money-making, spending +a portion of his enormous wealth with an easy hand, but destitute of +what is called book-learning, and leaving to some future generation the +cultivation of the graces and the acquirement of accomplishments which +the circumstances of his early life had denied him to effect. + +It had been arranged that we should return to San Francisco to dinner, +but Senator Sharon had in his secret heart resolved that we should do +nothing of the kind, or at least, that if we did so, it should only be +after we had partaken of such a feast at Belmont as would very much +indispose us to test the capabilities of the _chef_ of the Palace +Hotel. From Palo-Alto accordingly we were driven to the charming +country house, some miles away, of the ex-senator of Oregon, and we +were regaled there, after some delay, at a very elaborate _déjeûner_, +sent out from San Francisco. It was nigh 8 o'clock ere we got back +to the city; and the night ended by what might well be called "an +excursion" to the Baldwin Theatre, which was at the time the most +attractive of the places of entertainment of that sort open in the +city. As some of us were walking back, after the play was over, with +an American friend, talking of the "hoodlums," famous rowdies, who, we +were assured, had been of late days utterly broken up by the vigilance +of the police, our attention was attracted to a number of lads smoking +at the corner of the street. Our friend said "Hoodlums broken up! There +they are--don't you believe it. That's a lot of them, and if you were +alone you might find out very unpleasantly that there are plenty of +them." + +The San Francisco journalists possess astonishing powers of +imagination. I rubbed my eyes when I read that I had described "with +eloquence the similarity between a marsh at San Bruno and a patch +of jungle in the north-west of Scinde, where I had the felicity +of spending three weeks with General Green while the natives were +arranging a plan to capture the party and cut our throats." I never +was in the north-west of Scinde in my life, and, although I had the +pleasure of passing a longer time in his company in the United States, +and of being on the same plateau before Sebastopol when he was there, +for a still longer period, many years before, I never spent three +weeks there with General Green. The Duke was described as "professing, +but showing, little enthusiasm." However, these matters are of very +slight interest or importance; only one wonders how many of the readers +of this sort of literary work believe in it. One of our party has, +according to a local paper, become a clergyman, and now rejoices in the +style and title of "the Bishop," by which he is universally addressed +by the party. + +While in the train, on our way to Belmont, I had the pleasure of +being introduced to a gentleman who, although a lawyer in very large +practice, is General of the State Volunteers; and in the course of +conversation, I heard that he had papers containing the statement of +a gentleman who had visited, and which convinced him that the real +Roger Tichborne was living not very far from San Francisco. General +Barnes, whose name and character stand high in the city of the Golden +Gate, and whom I found to be a gentleman of great intelligence, seemed +perfectly satisfied by the story told by this new "claimant"; but what +he mentioned to me did not at all tend to create in my mind any notion +that he was not an impostor, and especially were my doubts confirmed by +the quotations which General Barnes made from some of the narrative, in +which there was a ridiculous jumble of French and English, in order to +justify, apparently, the stress placed by the "claimant" in his story +on that part of his life which was passed in France. He spoke of his +uncle as "mon oncle," and of Thursday as "Jeudi," and so on. However, +General Barnes appeared to be so impressed by the truthfulness of the +man's bearing, and by the full details he gave him at an audience +in which he supplied the facts for the consecutive narrative which +I was promised, that I expressed a desire to read it. General Barnes +subsequently sent me a long written paper containing the heads of the +claimant's story, a perusal of which strengthened the conviction I +had previously entertained. I only mention this circumstance because +there was a report spread throughout the Press, by the agency of one +of the great telegraphic associations which furnish the American +public with intelligence, that the Duke of Sutherland and myself +had interviewed the real Roger Tichborne at San Francisco, and had +satisfied ourselves that he was the man; and innumerable "headings" +were invented for this supposed interview, of which I was soon made +aware on my return westward in every newspaper that I read. I promptly +denied the statement that the Duke or myself had seen the new claimant, +and although the denial appeared in print I was exasperated day after +day by being asked questions afterwards with regard to this supposed +conversation with Tichborne at San Francisco, and by inquiries as to +my real impression; so it would appear that no one had seen or paid +any attention to the refutation of the story which had brought down +on my devoted head communications from friends of other Tichbornes, +of whom there are several living, some in poverty and others in +comparative affluence, in various cities and districts of the United +States. I had further the mortification of seeing it stated in print +that I had used disparaging words in alluding to the credulity of +General Barnes, which was an entirely baseless fabrication. With all +the extraordinary keenness of the American mind generally, there is +associated with it a considerable amount of the Anglo-Saxon quality +which is termed "gullibility," and the land swarms with impostors who +make a living out of the easy faith of the population. I do not speak +merely of spiritualists, quacks, and professors of peculiar religions +or medical dogmas, nor of the preachers of eccentric forms of faith or +unbelief, but of the mass of persons who contrive to get an existence +by representing that they are "someone else." Although their tricks +are well known, the trade still flourishes. They are always the "sons +of peers," who have got into disgrace with their families, but who +will eventually be owners of castles of historic fame and of enormous +estates; "distinguished soldiers"; "Maids of Honour to the Queen," +who for some unknown reasons are living in small out-of-the-way +villages in the West; or political conspirators who have played a great +part on some distinguished stage and have saved themselves from the +consequences of defeated enterprize by taking refuge in the States. +And then there are hordes of persons who are known by the title of +"confidence men," who travel about on the trains or in the steamers, +looking out for victims, or lounging about the bars and saloons, +waiting for their prey in the shape of some facile and easy-eared +stranger, who in consideration of their merits and distress shall give +them temporary assistance. Sometimes, doubtless, there are cases of +very real suffering, sorrow, and poverty, to which exile in the United +States affords a melancholy refuge. I was obliged to hear in one great +city of a gallant soldier who, reduced to poverty by no fault of his +own, had quitted England and given up the society of his friends, +and lived in a small suburb of a town on the coast of the Pacific, +his secret known only to one or two officials, shunning all contact +with his countrymen and evading as far as possible all inquiries of +his friends. In San Francisco, where there is a poor-house open to +strangers and to native-born Americans alike, there are, I am told, to +be met with extraordinary exemplifications of the "downs" of fortune. +Adventurous and daring spirits, and pioneers of civilisation, at one +time probably possessed of wealth which was wasted in dissipation, +or lost in unfortunate speculations, are there, talking of the days +that are gone, in all languages of the world, and awaiting their end; +while others who started with them in the same race are building their +palaces or revelling in the enjoyment of wealth, compared to which our +greatest fortunes are, if figures can be trusted, a mere bagatelle. How +rapidly some of these fortunes can be made was illustrated by numerous +stories connected with some of the richest men in California. I was +told by an eminent tradesman of San Francisco that one day a miner came +into his establishment to buy a watch, which he said must be cheap +and good, for he wanted something he could trust to in the matter of +time, as he was going off with a party on an exploring expedition +after gold. This was in the early time of the great "booms" in the +West. He selected a watch, for which he paid $40, and departed. The +following day he appeared in the shop and asked to see the proprietor, +and then, producing the watch, he said he would like to have $30 for +it, as he had lost all his money in a "spree" the night before and +must have something to start with. The jeweller said, "Well, I will +return you what you gave me for the watch, as it has suffered no harm, +and you shall have your $40 back again." The man went away exceedingly +rejoiced, and the incident was forgotten. Some eighteen months +afterwards a man came to the establishment, and looking at rings, gold +chains, and jewellery of the most costly character, and asking for the +best of everything that they had got, gave orders which occasioned the +attendant to have some doubts as to his sanity, or certainly as to the +means he had of paying the amount, which was rapidly running up to tens +of thousands of dollars. So he sought out his principal. The strange +customer said, "I suppose you don't know me?" which was admitted to +be the case. He went on buying all the same, making the remark, "You +need not be uneasy about the money, for So-and-so (the bankers) will +tell you I am all right, and when you send the things home you shall +be paid. I am Joe Smith, from whom some time ago you took a watch he +bought from you when he came to your store, and gave him the full value +for it when he was in want of money," and so departed, having shown his +gratitude by buying 6000_l._ worth of jewellery. This worthy miner is +now one of the wealthy pillars of the State. + +The Chinese quarter of San Francisco has been described, I will not say +_ad nauseam_, but as often as any book has been written which contains +an account of a visit to the city of the Golden Gate. Of course we +went there, and saw all that was to be seen under the best possible +auspices, for Mr. Bee, whom I have already mentioned, was our guide +and companion, assisted by an exceedingly intelligent officer of the +police force; and on the occasion of our second visit, when we went to +the theatre, we had the advantage of being under the protection of the +gentleman who represents law and order, on behalf of the municipality, +in connection with the Chinese population and the arrangements for +theatrical performances. + +The inspection of the dreadful den in which the opium-smokers were to +be seen suggested to my mind a train of thought in connection with the +traffic which I would not willingly have communicated to my American +friends. It will seem incredible some day to the awakened conscience +of the nation that we should have ever sanctioned such a frightful +crime as the opium traffic. "It only poisons about two millions of +people," is the excuse, "and brings in one-sixth of the whole revenue +of India." If ever it were justifiable to utter the exclamation "Perish +India!" it would be, I believe, in regard to that disgraceful source of +revenue, and the necessity that is imposed upon us, as it is alleged, +to raise it, in order to maintain the government of our Indian empire. +Here in San Francisco the State has nothing to do with the sale of the +poison, and it is very questionable whether the police regulations +should not be applied to it, just as they are to persons who have +tried to commit suicide, or to the inebriates in public-houses, or to +places where intemperance is carried on to an extent injurious to the +public peace. Death is the inevitable result of continued indulgence +in opium-smoking, although it is true that in some cases the victim +lingers on a few years, utterly indifferent to all the business of life +except the one--the means of supplying himself with his only source +of enjoyment. I was in one of the shops where they sell the drug, and +was much struck by the cadaverous, sunken faces of the unfortunate +customers, with bright dreamy eyes, trembling limbs, and wasted bodies, +who came in to buy it. It is cheap enough, in all conscience, as a very +small quantity suffices to produce what is called "the desired effect"; +but for its bulk it is exceedingly dear, and indulgence in it must +consume a considerable amount of the earnings of the best-paid artisans +when they are no longer able to earn sufficient to keep them with a +full supply. "Then," as our informant says, "they will commit any crime +to get it." + +The general impression made upon me by the appearance of the Chinese +population was most favourable. I do not now speak of what one might +see in going through the haunts where the police regulations assign +exclusive possession to certain classes of the population, which, sooth +to say, seemed numerous enough; I refer to the business quarters, and +to the crowds of cleanly, intelligent, well-behaved people of both +sexes in the streets. General McDowell, and many other persons, for +whose opinion the greatest respect must be entertained, look with +apprehension on the effect of the Chinese immigration, and have, +indeed, declared that it will destroy the Union if it be not checked; +and these apprehensions are based upon the possibility that in time +millions on millions of the swarming population of China will inundate +the United States, gradually overrun town after town, usurping all +the fields of labour, and beating down the white man to the greatest +misery by competition in every branch of trade, industry, and labour. +This party has successfully, I believe, impressed its views upon a +considerable number of senators and representatives in the Eastern +States, who can exercise pressure on the Supreme Government; and +the treaty recently signed between the Republic and China contains +provisions which enable the authorities at the western seaports to +exercise considerable control over the current of emigration. But, on +the other hand, it is alleged that the fears which are expressed of +a rapidly increasing exodus of Chinese from China, and an anabasis +into the United States, are purely imaginary--in fact, unreal and +pretentious. The pro-Chinese party allege that the emigration comes +from only one port in one province, and that you may go all over the +West, and ask any Chinaman or Chinawoman where he or she comes from, +and you are met with the invariable answer, from the one port. The +friends of the Chinese--arguing, moreover, that the State at large +is benefited enormously by the accession to its resources from the +Celestial Empire, and that the labour was attacked, not because it +was cheap, but because it was good; that it is now indispensable, for +without Chinamen and Chinawomen it would be almost impossible to carry +on the ordinary life of these cities--allege that the agitation which +has been so violent in San Francisco is mainly encouraged by those +who want to secure the Irish vote. Colonel Bee represents these views +very strongly. He argues that Canton, not larger than the State of +New Hampshire, is the sole source of emigration. He insists on it that +there are no more than 100,000 Chinese in the whole of the Union, and +that for the last ten years the emigrants have not sufficed to fill +the places of those who had gone home with money, never intending to +return, or who had died. He maintains, indeed, that the Chinese are +decreasing rather than otherwise; and with all the power of figures, +which he has at his fingers' ends as Consul, demonstrates that a very +large proportion of the Chinese who are entered as arriving at San +Francisco and other parts are the same men and women as those who came +some years previously and went back to their native country, returning +to gain more dollars. + +The principal enemies of the Chinese are the Irish, who, having +monopolised the whole of the work of bricklayers, plasterers, carters, +porters, and general labourers until their arrival, have been forced +to reduce their rates of labour steadily by the competition of the +Chinaman. + +The part of the population of San Francisco denominated the Sand lot, +and especially those connected with the political associations of the +city, do not by any means share Colonel Bee's views; but the agitation +is dying out, and the meetings, which were of weekly occurrence, to +excite the people against the Mongolians have decreased in number, +importance, and interest. The directors of public companies, and +the contractors for public works, are all in favour of the Chinese +workman, who is sober, industrious, and orderly; and although the trade +combinations among them are exceedingly subtle, and their powers of +association for trade purposes remarkable, being moreover the most +ancient in the world, the Chinese in the Western States have not as +yet taken to indulge in the luxury of strikes. As domestic servants, +nurses, and attendants on children, they appear to be affectionate +and careful; and nothing could be better than the service of the hotel +in which we were lodged, the great portion of which was carried on by +Chinamen and women. + +_June 10th._--In the spacious courtyard of the Palace Hotel, at +7 o'clock this morning, there might have been observed three +well-appointed waggons (as Americans call the vehicle more +appropriately termed "spider" at the Cape), each with two horses +of race, fast trotters, panting for a spin through the city and the +Park out to the shores of the Pacific. The Duke and Sir H. Green and +Mr. Stephen were driven by Mr. Howard. Mr. Wright was "personally +conducted" by Mr. ----, and I was put behind a pair of as handsome +chestnuts as could well be seen anywhere, of which the owner and +driver (General Barnes) was very reasonably proud. The streets of +San Francisco, like those of most of the American cities we have +visited, are atrociously paved; the torture of driving over boulders +is aggravated by the sharp ribs of the tram ways, so that it is not +pleasant, if, indeed, it be possible, to drive rapidly till the limit +of municipal incompetence or fraud be passed. But once out on the +suburbs the chestnuts were invited to step it, and were bowling along +at a good fourteen miles an hour on our way to the Park, over as good +a road as horse or man ever felt under hoof or foot. The Park not long +ago was a waste of sand, it is now swarded and planted with shrubs, and +luxuriant with flowers. Notices that it was unlawful to do more than +ten miles an hour were posted up, but the General did not pay strict +attention to them till he came near shady places, where experience +warned him that policemen might be lying privily in ambush. The pace +was quickened till the waggon seemed to fly through the air rather +than move over the ground. It was the perfection of travelling on +wheels--almost as buoyant as a headlong gallop. The waggon weighed but +180 lb., the powerful animals "scarcely felt it more than their tails." +I had a turn at the reins by "kind permission" of the General. The art +of driving trotters needs practice. You must keep a strong, steady +pull on the head, or they "break." Very soon I had the satisfaction +of making the chestnuts break the law with a vengeance, and of hearing +the General say, "We are just within the three minutes! not ten seconds +inside it!"--that is, of trotting at the rate of just twenty miles an +hour. Up hill and down hill, and along the flat out of the Park and +over the smooth road, and in half an hour the Pacific was in sight, and +the murmurs of the surf rose above the rhythm of the regular beat of +the eight hoofs in front of us! Cliff House was in view. Seal Rocks, +in their setting of foam, lay before us, and in forty minutes from the +time we left the hotel, despite policemen, miles of bad pavements, and +tramways, we drew up at the steps of Cliff House, nine miles from San +Francisco, and the trotters had not turned a hair. From the verandah +at the sea front of the hotel, we enjoyed for half an hour a spectacle +which is, as far as I know, unique. At the distance of 500 or 600 yards +from the beach at our feet there is a group of four very rugged rocks, +with serrated edges and tops, the sides broken here and there into +ledges and small platforms. They are too small to be called islands, +the largest being, as it seemed, not 100 yards wide. The slopes are +not, I think, so steep as they looked on the land side. On the two +largest of these rocks there were herds of sea-lions, so close that we +could see, through very poor opera-glasses, with the greatest ease, +their eyes, teeth, and whiskers, as they reposed or played with each +other. Some had clambered to the highest ledges, escalading the sides +by a series of painful-looking struggles with their flappers; others +were fast asleep in cosy nooks; some were tossing their heads about and +making believe to bite each other in sport; the younger ones were bent +on teasing their fathers and mothers by uncouth gambols. As they played +or moved they uttered cries between a bark and a roar; now and then the +noise was like that of a pack of hounds in full cry, and the effect of +the strange sound mingling with the tumult of the surf and the beat of +the waves was most singular and "eldrich." Those fresh from the sea +were shining black, but became lighter as they dried. The older ones +were not darker than cinnamon bears or unwashed sheep. As many of those +on the rocks had not long left the water the general effect of the +herd put one in mind of a gathering of enormous slugs on cabbages--not +a poetic simile, but a just one, I think. Occasionally a sea-lion, +hungry or bored by his companions, threw himself with a splash into the +wave, and it was interesting to watch the rapidity and actual grace of +his movements in the sea compared with his laborious efforts on the +land. One could see them quite clearly through the body of the heavy +billows; occasionally a bold one would glide close on shore and fish +in the edge of the surf, raising his head and shoulders clear above +the surface, and then diving out of sight. They were cruising about +in every direction. You remember the sea-lion at the Zoo, of which the +French attendant was so fond? Well, the creatures below and before us +were most of them double the size of that fellow, and several exceeded +the largest ox in size. The monsters are quite well known; one is named +Ben Butler, "because he is such a great beast." They were formerly +protected by law, but some one thought they killed too many fish, and +the law was repealed. They are safe all the same, for there is a law +against the discharge of firearms within 300 yards of an inhabited +dwelling; Cliff House throws its ægis over the sea-lions in that wise; +but the quantity of fish which must be devoured by these mountainous +phocæ (an they be so) daily would maintain a decently-sized city. The +hide furnishes the "sealskin" used to cover trunks, and the body yields +oil fat, and the tusks are close, white, and hard. These sea-lions +breed far away up north, and come with their young regularly every +year to the same resorts; but incessant war is waged upon them by the +sealers and whalers, so that the chances are against the beast where he +is not protected by law, and their numbers do not increase. Altogether, +the spectacle was one never to be forgotten. A hotel, with oysters +awaiting us for a forebreakfast refection in the background, waggons +from Michigan, horses from Kentucky, all the apparatus of civilised +life close at hand, the Pacific and its strange wild denizens at our +feet! "Let us turn in and have an oyster." "What! oysters in June?" +"Yes, and good ones too." In this favoured land oysters are in season +all the year round. There are no oysters found on the coast, I am told, +and they will not breed. They are brought all the way from the Atlantic +coast when they are mere oysterlets, and they are laid down in the +Pacific, where they grow fat and large, but are not "crossed in love," +and therefore are fit to be eaten from January to January. They are +about the size of a spring chicken, and need some courage on the part +of an assailant who desires to dispose of them as he would a native. + +This was our last day in the city of the Golden Gate, and the +photographers were masters of the situation; and there was much +_débris_ of sight-seeing to sweep up--visits to be made, shops to be +inspected, among which I must mention specially the Diamond Palace +of Colonel Andrews, one of the handsomest jeweller's "stores" in +the world, though it is not as large as the establishments of the +principal firms in London, Paris, Vienna, or as Tiffany's in New +York. The distinctive feature of the interior is the decoration of the +paintings of fair women, on the ceiling and the walls above the cases, +by necklaces, diadems, zones, and other feminine ornaments of real +diamonds, emeralds, rubies, and pearls. The pictures are the work of +an Italian artist of merit, and the general effect is very striking; +but I doubt whether it is a good way of inducing people to buy the +articles which bedeck the ideal beauties. At Bradley and Rulofson's +we saw photographs of many of our friends, and had one more proof of +the smallness of the world. Every one we knew seemed to have visited +San Francisco. There we all submitted to inevitable fate, and left our +negatives behind us, but the Duke was captured by a rival photographic +institution, and had a sitting all to himself. + +The aspect of a crowd in a large American city differs from that of +the passers-by in the street of an English town, most of all in the +appearance of such a large proportion of coloured people. Here it may +be said, however, that they are colourless, as the prevailing hue of +the foreign population is that of the Chinaman. In Canada the number +of negroes, or of persons of negro descent, of varying gradations of +colour, is remarkable, considering the circumstances, but they probably +may be accounted for by the emigration in the olden times of those +who were escaping from slavery, or who went with their masters and +employers into the Dominion. In the cities on the Lakes I was very +much struck by the persons of undoubted African descent who are to +be met with in the streets in great numbers; and in Chicago there is +a quarter nearly exclusively occupied by them--honest, industrious, +hard-working people seemingly, given to stand about at the street +corners, however, a good deal on Sundays, and cultivating a bright +attire, especially on the part of the ladies, whose bonnets and +shawls were things to wonder at. There are loafers amongst them, as +there are amongst their betters; but, taking them all in all, in the +Northern, Western, and Atlantic States, they are a decidedly useful +element in the population, easing the burden of labour to the white +man, and following many occupations, such as those of waiters, barbers, +bricklayers, and labourers in the less skilled sort of work, for which +it would be difficult to find American substitutes. One peculiarity, +which may be accounted for by some wiser person than myself, seems to +be their recklessness as to what they put on their heads. Whether it +is merely a compliance with the custom of the white man, which impels +them to cover the highly effective protection against sun and cold +which Nature has given them, or not; or whether it is that the canons +of taste in such matters have not yet settled down to those accepted +by people in civilised life in the Western world, the male negro has +the most extraordinary indifference as to the quality and shape of the +thing which he calls a hat or cap, and it would not be easy to find out +of the gutters of some Irish country town anything more dilapidated, +battered, and utterly incoherent than some of the hats which one may +see on the heads of people of colour, especially down South. Whatever +other virtues they may have, neatness is not amongst them; for, with +all their affectation of finery, their clothes are generally ill-kept, +their houses are unkempt, and, where they are cultivators of the soil, +the operations are performed in a slovenly manner. The traditions of +the old plantation have descended upon them, and influence them. + +On my way from Messrs. Donahue and Kelly, the bankers in Montgomery +Street--I believe the former of these gentlemen has had the +privilege of giving his name to steamers and cities, leastways +railway stations--I saw a party of sailors belonging to the United +States steamer "_Rodgers_," now about to proceed in search of the +"_Jeannette_," and I was much struck by their resemblance to our own +bluejackets in general "cut of the jib," dress, face, and figure. +They were in charge of a smart-looking officer, and had been paying a +farewell visit to the fruit and vegetable markets--one of the sights of +the city. They were in high good-humour, laughing and chatting loudly, +more than is the wont of Americans, and I could not but contrast +their fine physique with that of the soldiers we had seen at Sir Henry +Green's parade when General McDowell took us round the harbour. The +detachment at the Fort, consisting of infantry and artillerymen, and +squads of different regiments, had some weedy veterans in the ranks, +who had lost their setting up and did not look fit for much work; but +the sailors, probably a picked lot, were good all round. + +_À propos_ of Messrs. Donahue and Kelly, the number of wealthy +men in San Francisco of Irish origin or nationality is remarkable. +Millionaires with names of Milesian prefixes and terminations are +phenomenal. We had intended to return to the East Coast by way of Utah, +and to stay a day or two at Salt Lake City, but the railroad company +did not consider it expedient to give the party the facilities which +had been accorded in every other instance by the American authorities +to the Duke and his friends. To have gone round Salt Lake City would +have cost a couple of hundred pounds more for haulage, and we were +much more interested in seeing Leadville and Denver than the City of +the Mormons; the game was not thought to be worth the candle, and +it was resolved that we would go back as we came, in charge of the +representatives of the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fé Railroad Company. +It was only one item more in the long list of things we ought to have +seen if we could, and I can safely say that we had a large share of the +common experience of travellers in regard to the relations between the +possible and the impossible in the course of a journey in a strange +land, where there are for ever cropping up representations that "you +really ought not to leave without seeing" so and so. The evening of our +last day was passed in the society of General McDowell, Mr. Morgan, +the English Consul, Colonel Bee, and others, who had done so much to +make the visit to San Francisco all that could be desired, and whose +courtesy and kindness will ever be remembered by every one of us most +gratefully. Like Sir Charles Coldstream, we "had seen everything, +done everything," but, unlike him, had found there was plenty in it. +The street railway--most ingenious and successful, invaluable in a +hilly city like Lisbon--the Chinese Theatre, the Joss houses--shops, +eating-houses, opium dens of the Chinese quarter, the clubs, the +principal buildings, the streets, the shops, the markets, the harbour, +the suburbs, and country round about--all had been inspected, and +yet each day we were told that we were doing positive injustice to +ourselves and to the objects which were perforce neglected. In the +morning there was a levée in the hotel to bid the Duke good-bye and +see the party start on their return journey. At the very last moment a +gentleman came forward with a proposal to take us to the North Pole by +balloon, but there was not time to consider it in all its bearings and +the offer was declined with thanks. We started at 10 A.M., and the Duke +was attended to the boat and to the station across the water by a large +body of San Franciscans, who took leave ere the train started. The +gentlemen who were with us on the journey westwards attended the Duke +on his way towards the Eastern States. All day we travelled through +California--"the hot furnace"--which at first, however, proved to be +only very warm, and the coloured servants had constant supplies of iced +compounds to be drunk for the solace of the homeward bound, and had +laid in a stock of San Franciscan luxuries to soothe the way. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +CALIFORNIA TO COLORADO. + + Los Angeles--Mud-geysers--"Billy the Kid"--General + Fremont--Manitou, the Garden of the Gods--Desperadoes--Bob + Ingersoll--Denver City--Leadville--Grand Cañon. + + +_June 12th._--The train stopped at Los Angeles at six in the morning, +and, drawing up my window-blind, the first person I saw on the platform +was our good friend Colonel Baker, who had come to meet us, intent +on the good offices which he could render during our stay. These were +exhibited in the form of a beautiful bouquet for Lady Green, baskets +of limes and oranges, and great bunches of grapes. In this happy valley +there are cares as in the rest of the world. The Colonel told us he was +in the midst of a great litigation affecting his claim to a large tract +of land in which there are said to exist the richest tin-mines in the +American Continent. Yet why should he care about his tin-mine? There +were rolling acres rich with corn and fruit, and there were flocks and +herds and vineyards, and a charming home of his own. Nevertheless, if +the want of that tin-mine made him at all unhappy, I am sure those who +were indebted to him, as we were, for so many kindnesses, will wish his +claim to be triumphantly asserted, and long possession of all that is +to follow. + +I dreaded the passage of the Desert to Yuma; and indeed the heat was +intense. No wonder that with the thermometer ranging from 100° to 104°, +all the blinds in the car were pulled down, and we sprawled listlessly +on the cushions. Our excellent attendants put forth all the resources +of art in the shape of ice and preparations of limes and cocktails; +but the temperature would not be baffled. We could just read, and were +aware that we were living, and some of us had strength enough now and +then to execute forays against flies with napkins to drive them out +of the carriages. How could people live out in the open, and work in +the mines, or pursue any out-of-door employment in such torrid heat? +Nevertheless, there was a marked distinction between it and the heat to +be endured with the mercury at an equal height in India. + +The speed of the train was very respectable--somewhat over twenty miles +an hour--and at that rate we ran from San Gorgonio and Banning on to +Cabazon, through a flat plain, dry and burnt up, very like the desert +around Suez, and fringed, like it, with rocky and rugged hills, save +that there was a great growth of Spanish bayonets and cactuses of all +kinds among the stones and sand, and that snow was to be seen on all +the hill-tops in the distance. For 107 miles there was no water to +be met with going along this plain; but the mirage, of which I have +spoken in the account of our journey to San Francisco, was frequent +and beautiful; and again I was fascinated by the sight of lovely lakes +embowered in trees, with stately cities on their shores, changing and +shifting and melting away, only again to assume apparent substance to +cheat the senses. + +Once the train stopped to allow the passengers to visit the +mud-geysers, which were not more than 150 yards on the left of the +line, and with commendable curiosity most of us got out and walked +over the baked earth to the spot. There was no mark whatever of smoke +or vapour to indicate the place; and it was almost startling to come +suddenly upon a kind of pond of semi-liquid mud, fifty or sixty feet +in diameter, on which huge bubbles, varying in size from an orange to +a hogshead, were continually forming and bursting. There was a faint +sulphurous smell, and the ground around the liquefied portion of the +surface, where the bubbles were breaking, was hot and cracked. The +conductor said that all attempts to reach the bottom of the holes +through which the bubbles arose had failed. Two of these geysers +were in active operation, and the plain away to the left of the rail +was said to contain a great number of them. After all it was very +unsatisfactory to see this ebullition going on without being able to +account for it; and, generally, I think we thought less of each other +and of our information after visiting them, and finding out that not +one of us had any theory on the subject which would bear either fire or +water. + +I do not think I ever saw a sunset more beautiful than that which +marked the close of this day--certainly not in India or South Africa, +nor on the prairie, for which they make claims of surpassing beauty in +the matter of sunsets. As it died out, I felt that "thing of beauty" +could not "be a joy for ever," for it was a combination of colour and +of form, including sky and mountain, that it would be impossible to see +again. + +The kindness of which we have had so many proofs, has followed, +accompanied, and preceded us all unremittingly and unweariedly. A +rough with some Bourbon on board mounted to-day the steps of the +car at a station, and insisted on seeing "this Duke." When he was +told that the object of his attention was engaged, he said, "This +is a land of liberty (as in his case it was), and he doesn't want a +bodyguard with him!" But the conductor sent him away about his business +without trouble. On the platform at Benson a few miners asked "the +Duke to come out and show himself." The people at the stations were +generally satisfied with a quiet peep; now and then an enthusiastic +Scotchman claimed a shake hands, which was always accorded to him. A +sleeper placed across the rails (accounted for by the officers on the +hypothesis that some loafer without a ticket had been turned off by the +conductor, and had put the sleeper in the way of the train to wreak +his vengeance--a thing which has occurred nearer home) was the only +substantial danger to which we were here exposed. + +The heat (June 13th) was intense. The thermometer rose to 105 at one +o'clock in the day, and it was little comfort to us to be told that at +Deming it had been up to 110 the day before. + +For some days we have been supping full of horrors, indeed +breakfasting and dining on them, for the papers contain accounts of +the extraordinary homicides all about this region. Tucson, Benson, +Wilcox--all these places were resounding with the exploits of "Billy +the Kid." Now at Tucson there is, I believe, a man whose name was once +amongst the very foremost in the United States. Who some twenty years +and more ago had not heard of General Fremont, "the Pathfinder," the +adventurous traveller, the energetic politician, the dashing soldier? +He had gone at the outbreak of the war to take up the chief command +in the west with all the pomp and circumstance of glorious war. I was +somewhat astonished to find that he was at Tucson, the governor of the +Territory, on a humble salary, apparently the world-forgetting and +the world-forgot, while "Billy-the-Kid" was perpetrating numberless +atrocities under his nose, and Mr. Pat Garrett was dressing up his +loins with his revolver-belt, and about to go forth with a chosen band +of citizens and seek the redoubtable William.[A] + +A person who has only seen settled States in Europe, or the Eastern +States of the North American Continent, cannot form any notion of a +territory which has become a centre of attraction to all the wild +adventurers and daring spirits which society, in the process of +formation, throws out as a sort of advanced guard. In Arizona, in +1870, according to the American Almanac, out of a total population +of 9658, 2729 could not write and 2690 could not read. Of the total +population, 2491 were foreign born, and 2753 were natives, the rest +being coloured or under ten years of age. In New Mexico, out of 91,000 +people, 48,000 over ten years of age could not read, and 51,000 whites +over ten years of age could not write. It may be inferred from such +figures what is the general condition of the labouring classes in these +States and Territories. The inhabitants of these States have doubled +in the last ten years. They are filling up at a rate inconceivably +great--so great, indeed, that American newspapers are fairly bewildered +and American statesmen appalled by the rush across the Rocky Mountains +and down the rivers, although as yet but a small proportion of the +immense stream of immigrants has flooded the outlying territories. "At +this rate," exclaims a Western editor, "the old monarchies of Europe +will soon be depopulated." When Mr. Lincoln, in 1861, addressed his +inaugural to the expectant States he expressed his confident belief +that there were children then born who would live to see the flag of +the Union floating over no less than 100,000,000 of human beings. The +recent census of the United States gives a return of 51,000,000 of +people, but the most eminent statisticians have arrived at the belief +that the progress and increase of the States will not be at the same +rapid rate as that which marked the history of the Republic since the +cessation of the great civil war. It may be fairly inferred, however, +that at the end of this century the population of the United States +will greatly exceed that of Russia, or that of any empire except +China and Great Britain, including Hindostan. The population, on +each period of ten years, has increased at an average of more than +30 per cent.; in fact, nearer 33 per cent., and the centre of it has +travelled westward at the rate of more than fifty miles every ten +years, till the centre of population is now eight miles west by south +from Cincinnati. In 1800 the Union extended over only 239,935 square +miles. Its flag now floats over 1,272,239 square miles of States and +over 1,800,000 square miles of Territory governed by the central power +at Washington. "We cannot think," exclaims a Republican writer, "that +the war of rebellion settled all our troubles and made us secure in +our Republic. This enormous growth of the practically unknown West +reveals to us the grave dangers that threaten our nation. We meet +there the tremendous influences of alien races and alien religions." +The Americans of New England and of the Eastern States do not feel +anxious on that score, because their institutions are thoroughly +founded, their character formed, and they trust to the great power of +accomplished facts to assimilate the alien elements and sustain the +fabric of the Republic. The bugbear of a great Chinese immigration +has ceased to practically influence Californian politics, and it may +be safely assumed that the bulk of the future immigrants from the +Celestial Empire will only come from the same sources as those which +have hitherto supplied the stream. No wonder, however, that thoughtful +Americans--and there are many who think of the future of their country +as something quite apart from dollars--are filled with grave anxieties +when they see such floods of purely foreign material, which will in +all probability exercise a preponderating influence over the politics +of the Great Republic, surging into the States. Particularly have the +home missionary clergy, as they are styled, been struck by the enormous +influence which this foreign immigration has exercised. According +to one authority, the Rev. Mr. Stimson, of Worcester, "it is not a +question of spreading any particular form of Christianity or of Church +government, but a momentous struggle of American institutions with +alien civilisations and religions for the control of the great Western +country. The problem is not a matter of cleaning door-yards, but of +saving a continent for freedom." The Chinese Question and the Indian +Question are, they think, as nothing compared with the Irish Question +and the German Question. "The Republic," we are told, "stands on a +foundation as broad as humanity itself," whatever that may mean, "but +its condition of existence is a universal regard for the interests of +all." Often during the course of the Duke of Sutherland's excursion +it was our good fortune to fall in with men of great political and +social knowledge. The future of the Republic is, in the mind of these +men, clouded with uncertainty and doubt. They are apprehensive of +some unknown danger. It may be corruption of political life leading +to want of faith in free institutions; it may be the rival energies +and the opposing interests which Washington foresaw as likely to array +the East against the West--the Atlantic States against the inland +States, and it is calculated by some sanguine people that before this +century is over there will be eighteen, or possibly twenty, States +admitted into the Union formed out of the Territories which are now +under the central Government at Washington. Upon such influences as +these alien immigration may be expected to act with prodigious power. +At a recent meeting in Springfield a clergyman gave as an illustration +of the absolute indifference of the foreign immigrants to Republican +institutions a conversation he had with a Norwegian minister in +Minneapolis. "There is nothing," said this gentleman, "in America which +we Norwegians regard as of value except your land and your money. We +do not want to learn English: we do not want to know the Americans +around us; we have certainly no notion of becoming Americans, but we +intend to remain as we are--Norwegians." The Mormons control Utah. They +boast that they will soon govern five of the most important territorial +regions beyond the Rockies. But if Utah becomes a State, as she hopes +to do, she will found a Mormon code of laws and institutions beyond the +power of the United States to control. New Mexico may be considered as +a Roman Catholic State under the control of an excellent archbishop. Of +course all prophecies may be falsified by events, but judging by the +eighty years which have elapsed of the present century, and from the +ratio of increase in that time in the United States, the most liberal +construction may be placed even upon the bounding estimates of American +politicians and statists. When we look to the Far West and see, for +instance, how Winnipeg has become the centre of a great network of +river navigation, 300 miles in one direction, 600 miles in another, +and that the Mackenzie River passes for 1200 miles through what is +declared to be the future wheat region of the world, we may easily +comprehend the anxiety with which the patriotic American is filled lest +the future of such a State should fall into hands antagonistic to the +principles in which his _beau idéal_ of government has been founded and +has prospered. + +_June 14._--At Lamy, a station named after the good archbishop of Santa +Fé, where we halted for a short time whilst the passengers of another +train were breakfasting, a citizen came up to me on the platform and +exclaimed, as if he were very much impressed by the news he was going +to give, "If you look in there, sir, you will see Bob Ingersoll at +breakfast!" I asked whether there was anything very remarkable about +the fact. "Well, sir," he said, "he is Colonel Ingersoll, of whom you +have heard. He is the most remarkable in-fidel in the United States, +and I really think he believes what he preaches. A good man to look at, +too, and, they say, first-rate in his family." I had a glance at the +believer in unbelief, and saw a very presentable-looking person, of +fine appearance and good features, busily engaged in making the most +of his time at one of the tables in the refreshment-room. He was the +observed of all observers, and appeared to like it; and I understood +from one of the crowd that he had just returned from inspecting some +mining ventures in which he was concerned; for, if he does not believe +in the world to come, he is credited with very strong faith in the +excellencies of the possession of wealth in the world that is. His +lectures are attended by crowded audiences, but, as an astute American +observed, "they won't come to much, for, after all, people who do +not believe anything can never get up a great enthusiasm. It is in +believing something that the populace has faith." + +Once more our eyes were rejoiced with the sight of the lovely plains +of Las Vegas, wide-spreading fields decked with flowers and dotted with +flocks, bordered with ranges of softly contoured mountains, the courses +of the water streams indicated by bright vegetation and by growth of +trees of many kinds. From Lamy (170 miles) there is a gradual rise to +Raton, which we reached at 6.30 in the evening. The appearance of the +region we traverse as the train approaches the Raton Pass presents +a strong contrast to the desolate country through which we have been +passing. From Raton the train was drawn by two engines in front and +shoved by one behind, and even then the pace was not very rapid, for +the ascent is very sharp. All the more could we enjoy a very glorious +sunset, as we slowly ascended the mountain. Then darkness came on +rapidly, and we slid down towards La Junta into the night, and were all +fast asleep long before we arrived there. In the very early morning, +on June 15th, some two hours after midnight, we halted for a time at +Pueblo. At 9 o'clock we had to leave our beloved Pullman and change the +cars, for we were to take a fresh point of departure, starting from +the Union Depôt upon the Denver and Rio Grande narrow-gauge railway +for Denver, 119 miles distant, and making an excursion on the way to +Manitou, to which we diverged from Colorado Springs: for to go within +reach of that famous resort and not to see it would have been a great +outrage on all the rules and regulations established for the observance +of travellers. Certes narrow-gauge railways need an apology. Their +_raison d'être_ is, at the best, that they are better than nothing. +"If you won't have us, you can have nothing else." And in such a +mountainous region as we were about to visit, the difficulties and +expense connected with a broad-gauge line would have been enormous, +if indeed it could be constructed at all. The narrow-gauge carriages, +with seats to match, with which we were made acquainted for the first +time, were of course much less commodious and comfortable than those +we had quitted, but far superior to those on the Indian lines of the +same gauge, and Indian engineers had been over to take a lesson from +the Americans for the use of their carriage-builders. Atchison, Topeka, +and Santa Fé Company and Denver and Rio Grande Company have been at +daggers drawn and pistols cocked--ay, and fired--and at battles waged, +in times gone by; and now our friends on the former line were, like +ourselves, the guests of the latter, which was represented by several +official gentlemen anxious to do the honours to the Duke. The scenery +becomes grander and wilder every mile as the special hurries on as +well as it can over the sinuous line, which is piercing a mountain +region savage and sterile, and climbing by the sides of ravines and +creeping upwards in rocky valleys with pine-clad hill-tops and frowning +cliffs above. The engineer who designed the line is a Scotchman named +McMurtrie--or at least of recent Scotch origin--and he seems to have a +special gift for such aspiring work, and a gradient-compelling genius +not to be baffled by altitudes. We were mounting towards the snows. +Range upon range of whitened summits and hoary ridges came in view, +all paying homage to the rugged crown of Pike's Peak, which can be +seen from points more than 140 miles away. The fleecy cloudland which +seemed to lie before us, as we looked away from Pueblo, was resolving +itself into savage alps. And in these passes, which the eye caught for +a moment, there might be El Dorados still undiscovered, for around us +were cities springing out of the desert. Here the enchanter's wand is +the explorer's pick, and no one could say where the precious ore might +not be awaiting its touch. We were coming to the Land of Promises. The +conversation of our new friends, among whom were some gentlemen of the +press, related mostly to mines, and one of them had, as we discovered, +a very certain investment at the disposal of the Duke, in the form of a +mining-claim, which was worth, at the lowest computation, twice as much +as he was willing to take for it. There was no reason to doubt his good +faith, but it was felt that it was a kind of fortune which ought not to +pass into the hands of strangers, and should be reserved for the people +of the country; and I am sure all of the party who had the pleasure of +the owner's acquaintance hope that he has "made his pile" out of it, +and has more than realised his expectations. + +Colorado Springs, forty-five miles from Pueblo, is nearly 6000 feet +above the level of the sea. The character of the line to it is best +described in the fact that the average grade per mile is 44·14, the +maximum curvature 6°. There are "no Springs" here, but the little town, +charmingly situated, is a halting-place much frequented in tourist-time +by travellers, and reputed to be healthful. There are some pleasant +houses visible from the station, at which we descended to take our +places in the carriages provided to take us to Manitou Springs, five +miles away. Mr. Palmer--if General, I beg his pardon--the President of +the Railroad, had important business to attend to, but he was so well +represented by Mr. Bell, the Vice-President, that no one regretted his +absence, and it cannot be said in his case _les absents ont toujours +tort_. He is reported to have made a very large fortune with much +ingenuity, and to have business talents which even in this country +excite admiration. Mr. Bell is an Irish gentleman, a member of the +medical profession, who has a delightful villa embowered in a garden +in the environs of Manitou, where the Duke and his friends found a +charming interior and an Irish-American welcome, and discovered that +strawberries and cream were almost as good in Colorado as in Covent +Garden. A quaint, odd place, Manitou--an American Martigny, with +Pike's Peak rising (14,300 feet above the sea) over it in the clear +sky, inspiring regret that we could not make the excursion to the +summit, which is rewarded, we were told, and I can believe, by one of +the grandest views in the world--the usual service of guides, horses, +and mules, and _calèches_--a naturalist's store with skins, minerals, +feathers, and stuffed "objects"--detached wooden houses and villas +in small plots of garden--a straggling street, and large hotels for +invalids. But there was the unusual feature of encampments here and +there by the roadside, and notices forbidding the pitching of tents +within certain limits which were explained by the fact that the high +reputation of the waters and air induces people to come from great +distances for the treatment of consumption, and diseases of throat and +lungs. Many of them find it cheaper to travel in horse waggons and +pitch their canvas dwellings when they wish to make a halt, than to +take up their quarters at hotels. Poor people! what pale, hectic cheeks +and wasted forms we saw; little groups picnicking by the sides of the +rivulets along the roads--each with a gnawing care--anxiety about some +dear one's health in the midst of them. Our driver, an intelligent, +chatty lad, was full of information, and we had to drive the prescribed +road by the wells out to the Ute Pass, a mountain-gorge wild enough--a +small _Tête Noire_--to points to which magniloquent names have been +given. + +It is not for want of what is called puffing that Americans neglect +the resorts of health of their own country, and in the States far and +wide the beauties and advantages of Manitou are blazoned forth on the +walls of hotels and in guide-books to all who can read. I may confess +now that, notwithstanding the magnificent altitude of Pike's Peak, and +the eccentric forms of the rocks in the "Garden of the Gods," I was +disappointed with Manitou. But then the visit was short, and the day +was hot, and the way was long and dusty, and haply it might be that +under different circumstances Manitou would deserve much warmer praise. +It possesses indeed an abundance of curious springs, said to be full +of health-giving properties; and in the course of our drive we halted +several times to partake of drinks from various springs, out of one of +which bubbled up very good soda-water, precisely like Schweppe's best +in taste and appearance. At the large hotel, which put one in mind of +the great establishments of the same sort in Switzerland, the water +served at table to the guests--a sort of pleasant Apollinaris-tasting +beverage--came from a natural fountain. + +The "cataract" nearly made us angry, and there was no regret felt when +the carriages returned to the hotel, where there was unwonted activity +and bustle, as the "Denver Zouaves" had just descended in a friendly +razzia on it, and were desolating the hearts and fireside resources of +Manitou. The consequences might have been serious, as it turned out, +to unoffending strangers. Those who needed it turned into the barber's +shop of the hotel to be shaved, and after some delay a coloured man +appeared, who began to try his hand on me. Fortunately it was not +'prentice, for it was very unsteady, and I became a little alarmed +for my cuticle. "It will be all right, mister," quoth the barber. "I +never cut any one. But I'm demoralised, dat's a fact, having to wait +on dem Denver Zouaves. Lor a messy on any enemy dey has! My nerve's +all gone to pieces wid their wantin' everting at once at the dinner!" +The hotel seemed far more clean and comfortable than the caravanserais +in the land of William Tell; but our stay was short, for we were put +under orders for a sight which has the most inappropriate name that +could be invented--a valley in which the most extraordinary-looking +columns carved out in a plateau by the agency of water, have been +left standing, detached and in groups, to which the visitor enters +through a cleft in a barrier of rock passing round the base of a pillar +of sandstone as high as a house. The "Garden of the Gods" contains +500 acres, and is surrounded by mountains and cliffs. The sandstone +pillars generally taper from the base upwards to a short distance from +the tops, which are flattened out or surmounted by slabs or blocks of +sandstone of fantastic outline, and they are called by names derived +from fancied likenesses to animals, birds, and men. The juxtaposition +of the most brilliantly hued, dazzling-red blocks and strata, with +masses of the same material of milky whiteness, gives the impression +that the scene is the work of human hands; it seems too quaint and +artificial for the hand of Nature, to which alone it is due; and the +vegetation and the trees are in keeping with the character of the +place. A trysting-place for geologists, and their happy hunting-ground, +no doubt. But why "the Garden of the Gods," I pray? + +From the valley or cup, emerging by another road, the driver took us to +a ravine-like recess, almost girt in by high wooded mountains, in which +Mr. (General?) Palmer is erecting a mansion of palatial importance--a +picturesque site surely--cliffs, forests, and mountain all around, and +in view one most singular sandstone pillar, named the Major Domo, 120 +feet high and only 30 feet round--a mountain stream brawling through +tangled brushwood glades--a garden. But the heat! That must prove a +terror by day to the inmates of Glen Eyrie Lodge or Castle--which, by +the by, was named, as one of us insisted, from a collection of rubbish +on a ledge in the face of one of the cliffs, which was, he maintained, +the nest of an eagle. It was now time to return to our train, and we +were not sorry to get back to Colorado Springs. + +From Colorado Springs to our destination at Denver there were still 75 +miles of rail, and the line continued to ascend till we reached Divide +(7186 feet), whence there was a gentle descent. There were sixteen +stations named on the time-table. We stopped at very few of them, +and travelled somewhat too fast to permit our placid enjoyment of the +scenery, austere and vast, which indeed deserved more attention than +could be given to it by passengers in a very lively train--endless +alps on alps, not sheeted with perpetual white, but rather flecked +with snowfields, which contrasted finely with the sombre pine-forests, +and the rich hues of the rocks, touched by the rays of the setting +sun, that, ere it slid behind the mountains, cast a rose-coloured +mantle on their summit. The evidences of a bustling city were not +wanting in the approaches to the capital of Colorado. There were tall +chimneys vomiting out smoke in the distance, and near at hand trains +of waggons were toiling over the dusty plain--still 5000 feet above +the sea-level--fast trotters and people on horseback, beer-gardens, +factories of all kinds, brick-kilns, and then a fringe of log houses +and wooden shanties, before the train stopped at the imposing and +substantial depot. + +It was a quarter-past eight, nearly dark, when we reached Denver, +and glad were we to get into the hall of the Windsor Hotel, which was +crowded with a mixed multitude--miners, and speculators, and traders, +and some travellers like ourselves--a very busy scene indeed. In the +hotel were all human comforts nearly; hot and cold baths, and good +rooms, and more appliances of civilised existence, for those who could +pay for them, than could be found in many hostelries of approved +reputation in venerable towns at home; moreover, exuberant offers +of help and information. One goes to bed laden with obligations and +heavy with the sense of favours which can never be repaid. There was +now a _soupçon_ of frost in the air, and notwithstanding the heat +which we had endured the greater part of the day, fires were not +ungrateful; and as we peered out of our windows over the roofs of the +wide-spread houses of the town, we could see the snow on the lofty +ranges of hills, watered by the South Platte River and Cherry Creek, +which surround the cup in which Denver has been built in obedience +to the impulses of the increasing population, which now numbers, I +believe, 38,000 souls. There was a bright glare from the gas-lighted +streets, sounds of music, and a tumult of life in the town which +would have been creditable to an ancient metropolis. In the morning +from the hotel windows appeared a beautiful and widespread panorama +of the hills we had seen the evening before, peak above peak, none +very densely covered perhaps, or presenting continuous snowfields, but +extending in billowy sweeps far away to the horizon, all capped with +snow, now bathed in a flood of fervent sunshine, the snow lighted up +by the peculiar crimson tints common in Alpine regions. There were +duties in the way of sight-seeing and exploration of no ordinary +nature to be done. First there were interviews and receptions, and the +inevitable drive through the place as soon as the ordeal of breakfast +was over; and ordeal in some sort it was for the strangers to file +in to the public room and take their places at their table, aware +that the morning papers had subjected them to exhaustive criticism, +which was being verified by those around us. The morning papers too +had given some topics for reflection, indications that in the newly +created capital of Colorado desperate men, overtaken by the march of +law and order, had refused to accept service, and were vindicating +their rights as wild western outcasts to take or part with life as +of yore, in reckless encounters and deliberate assassinations. There +were, perhaps, at that moment some hundreds, if not thousands, out of +the population of 37,000 or 38,000 of the city, who belonged to the +adventurous classes--sporting-men, betting-men, ring-men, bar-keepers, +hell-proprietors, and their satellites, and the scum of the saloons +attracted from the great cities of the States for hundreds of miles, +by the prey which miners with belts full of gold, half mad with drink, +and always fond of excitement, frequently are; and if to these be added +the dissolute loafers and broken-down mining speculators, the strength +of the army arrayed against the law may be estimated; and the wonder is +that among a population armed to the teeth there are not more cases of +such violent deeds as we were reading of at breakfast. To the stranger +there was no evidence of the existence of these disturbing elements, +unless the bearded and booted men with speculation in their eyes, +in the hotel passages and halls, belonged to the dangerous, as they +certainly did to the mining, classes. As to the resources of the city, +although for rapidity of growth its wonders may be eclipsed by those of +Leadville, Denver claims a very high place in the catalogue of these +marvellous fungi of civilisation, of which the Western States present +almost unique examples. There is everything that any one can want to be +had for money in the place, and much more than most people need. Paris +fashions and millinery are in vogue. There are fine shops, handsome +churches, a theatre, breweries, factories, banks, insurance offices. + +The principal street exhibits pretty young people, who would have +no occasion to fear comparison with the _beau monde_ in Eastern +or European capitals. The thoroughfares are crowded with vehicles, +and spruce carriages and well turned-out horses may be seen in the +favourite drive, that has been made over an indifferent road to the +base of the Rocky Mountains, which appear to be close at hand, though +they are thirteen miles away. But here and there in the well-dressed +crowd may be seen a Bohemian _pur sang_, or a miner in his every day +clothes, bent on a rig out and a good time of it. The streets, unpaved, +dusty, and rugged, are very wide, and bordered with trees, and the +houses generally are built of good red brick instead of wood; and +there are runnels of water like those one sees in Pretoria and other +Dutch towns in South Africa. The roads about the city leave much to be +desired; but Rome was not built in a day. + +There are many ready-made clothing establishments in the main streets, +and there is a heavy trade in tinned provisions. Through the Western +States, as in South Africa, the débris of provision-tins constitutes +a certain and considerable addition to the objects to be seen in the +vicinity of every house, and to the mounds of rubbish in the street of +every village. How indeed could the first-comers in such regions keep +body and soul together without the supplies in such a portable form +of the first necessaries of life? Having once run up a town in these +remote wastes, the inhabitants are still compelled to make a liberal +use of the same sort of food, and mines of tinned iron gradually +accumulate around them. + +Our first excursion was to the Argo Works, under very pleasant +auspices, for we had the wife of the Senator, who is one of the +principal partners, and Mrs. Pearce, whose husband is largely +interested in the works, taking charge of us. The works are at some +distance outside the town, but the lofty chimneys vomit out quite +sufficient vaporous fumes and smoke to blight the vegetation and to +give the people near at hand a taste of their quality. I am not going +to give a minute description, for more reasons than one, of what we saw +at the works; but it was a very interesting exhibition of the processes +by which the precious metals are extracted from the ores and delivered +to commerce. The Argo Works simply assay and reduce ores on commission, +but the business is on a very large scale. Immense piles, in fact small +mountains, of brown, cinnamon and earth coloured dust and rock were +heaped up in the sheds, to be brought to the furnaces and turned, when +divested of the lead, iron, copper, and gold, out in ingots of silver. +All the methods for the extraction of silver were shown to us, but +I committed a gross indiscretion when I asked, in my ignorance, "How +do you extract the gold?" "That," said the urbane gentleman who was +conducting us over the works, "we never permit strangers to see." So +there is more there than meets the eye. + +The business of assaying here must be profitable, and if the reputation +of any firm be once established there is a secure fortune for its +members. The miners flock to them, and they can dictate terms. The +extent of mining work in the country around may be inferred from the +numerous offices in connection with it in the city. As a specimen +of what Messrs. Bush and Tabor of our hotel give their guests for +dinner, let me offer you this _menu_ of the 5.30 ordinary to-day +(June 16). Soup, beef à l'Anglaise; fish, boiled trout, anchovy sauce; +corned beef, leg of mutton, sirloin beef, chickens with giblet sauce, +fricassee à la Toulouse, veal, kidneys sautés aux croûtons, rice, +croquettes, baked pork and beans, saddle of antelope, currant jelly, +lamb, tongue, chicken salad, spiced salmon; innumerable "relishes" and +vegetables, baked rice pudding, strawberry pie, apricot pie, jelly, +blancmange, vanilla ice cream, macaroons, pound cake, fruit, Swiss +cheese, nuts, coffee, &c. The wines were not cheap: champagne 16_s._ a +bottle, St. Julien 6_s._, Leoville 14_s._, sherry 8_s._, brandy 14_s._ +per bottle. Orders for "drinks" at the bar after dinner were much more +general than orders for wine at dinner. + +Denver, in spite of its mineral wealth, is very poor, however, in +that of which the want would make life, even in America, intolerable. +The supply of drinking-water is scanty and bad, and last year there +was nearly a water famine. The _cartes_ in the hotel announced "Water +used in this room is boiled and filtered." But great efforts have been +made to furnish the inhabitants with a store, constant and adequate, +of the precious fluid, and we saw very considerable works, the +property of an Irish gentleman, erected before the town attained its +present dimensions, which were to be supplemented by a new enterprise +respecting which we heard much. Perhaps no town of equal size in an +equal length of time has ever had so much money and money's worth +flowing in and through it as Denver since the Colorado mines were +worked. It is asserted that the trade of the town for 1881 will exceed +8,000,000_l._ Colorado in 1879 yielded ores to the value of more than +3,750,000_l._ The output in the present year will exceed that of 1880. +In that year $35,417,517 worth of gold and $20,183,889 of silver (more +than 11,000,000_l._) was deposited in the United States Mint and Assay +Office. There is, besides, vast wealth in flocks and herds, and Denver +is the place where the people resort from Colorado for purposes of +trade and pleasure; altogether an astounding place, with a future quite +dazzling to think of, unless the mines give in, and even then Colorado +cannot again be poor; its climate and scenery will always attract +travellers, and its capacity for feeding sheep and cattle will secure +its population. "And as to the beetle?" Why, no one would have anything +to say to it. Nothing was known of it. There might be such things in +other States. "And the name?" Probably it was a red-coloured bug, and +got the name Colorado just as the river, or tobacco, was called, from +the hue of it. At all events the bug did not belong to the State. + +The interest which the progress of Colorado and the condition of +society in the State excite was exemplified by the appearance in +Denver of a party of Hungarian noblemen, whose names gave occasion +for stumbling to the journalists who copied them out of the Hotel +Register--Count Andrassy and others, who were travelling under the +guidance of Dr. Rudolf Meyer, of Vienna. Although the air of Denver +is so much bepraised, it happens that most of our party felt rather +overcome at the end of our excursion through the town and the visit +to the smelting works, and one of the Hungarians was confined to his +room. However, they sallied out before dinner, and a gloomy prophet +of evil remarked, "If these strangers should have a difficulty, I +consider they'll hev only theirselves to blame. Some citizens don't +like strangers comin' in and starin' at them, and they're apt to be +awkward in their tempers in the afternoon." Knowing no danger, and +fearing none, they went off, and were a long time absent. Meantime we +were preparing for the road, as we were bound for Leadville, the city +of the "biggest boom" of mining times--"the Silver El Dorado," as the +guide-book, with a magnificent "bull," describes it. Our Hungarian +friends returned to the hotel ere we left. They were filled with +enthusiasm, and with a good deal also of curiosity in regard to the +shootings of which they had heard so much, and were following in our +track next day, and so we parted _sans adieux_. How the love of gold +has filled these lone valleys with desperate men! "They are a rough +lot, sure enough," said the landlord, "but lynching keeps them down; +and it is much better than hanging according to law, to my mind. It +certainly is cheaper." "How is it cheaper?" "Why," said he, "when a man +is prosecuted, or when he is tried before the judges, the law expenses +are heavy, and they fall on the county. When a man is lynched there is +only the expense of the rope, and a little loss of time for the boys +who do the job." From Denver to Pueblo and from Pueblo to Leadville +the line is on the narrow-gauge principle, and our train, which left +at seven o'clock in the evening, seemed to be driven on no principle at +all; for, anxious to astonish a Duke perhaps, or Britishers generally, +the driver did what certainly could not be called his level best to +send us along up and down a very rough line, and round the sharpest +curves, at the rate of forty miles an hour, so that when we turned +in, our rest, if rest at all it were, was exceedingly broken, and +we trundled about in our berths as if we were in a ship in a pretty +heavy sea. Still this narrow-gauge was the only line which could be +made through such a country as we were traversing. Peeps out of the +window ever and anon revealed, high up amongst the stars, rugged +mountain-tops, and for ever there came the sound of rushing water, +near or remote, as the train "bounded" on its course. I do not know +what stations we passed on our way, but the night was very long, and +I greeted with pleasure the first gleam of light above the hill-tops. +The Arkansas River was on our left, and at dawn we had glimpses of +its turbid stream running madly in deep gorges far below us. At the +South Arkansas station the train halted soon after daybreak, and then +we diverged from the main line, and a light train took us over the +Arkansas River by a fine bridge on its way up the Gunnison Extension +to visit the highest mountain-pass traversed by a railway in the +world. South Arkansas station is 217 miles from Denver, and is 6944 +feet--and Marshall Pass (25 miles away), to which we were bound, is +10,760 feet--above sea-level. There were grades of 211 and curves of +24° on the way, and the railroad twisted in and out among the ravines +like an iron Alexandrine, for ever ascending till we had passed the +limits of forest life. There were stations at short intervals--Poncha +Springs, Mears, Silver Creek--from each other. From the stations there +is a good deal of cross-country traffic, and at one place we saw three +stages laden with men and women--or rather, to be polite and accurate, +let me say with women and ladies--starting, one with six horses, and +the other two with four each. These were bound for Gunnison, and as +we were halting for a little, the Duke and some others got out of the +train, and sauntered up towards the wooden shanties which formed "the +town," consisting of the usual array of saloons and drinking places. +However, our course was cut short by the information vouchsafed by one +of the officials, that it might be as well not to go up, as there had +been a big shooting match that morning, and that one man was killed +and four had been wounded, "and some of them were on the drink yet." +From 4.30 A.M. to 6.45 A.M. we struggled up towards the pass till +the line came to an end near the summit, and we were rewarded by some +very fine views, exceedingly like those of the Mont Cenis Railway or +the Sömmering. The hills on both sides of the line were stippled and +flaked with snow, but there was no extensive field, so far as the eye +could see, nor was there any appearance whatever of a glacier, the tops +generally being clear of snow, which only lodged in the ravines and +hollows. Strange it was in these alpine heights to hear the clang of +Italian tongues; but most of the navvies were from Italy, and if not +quite so strong as English or Americans, they were in more favour with +contractors, because they did more work, owing to their steadiness and +sobriety. The line was being pushed on at an astonishing rate, and one +man was pointed out to us who had laid four and a half miles of railway +in one day, "the biggest thing of the kind ever done." Our enjoyment +of the scenery was very much diminished by our animal appetites, +stimulated by the sharp mountain air, which craved incessantly for +food. But not even a cup of coffee was to be had until we got back to +the South Arkansas station, late in the morning, where an excellent +breakfast awaited us. Here we were detained some time by a derailment +of an engine in front. + +From South Arkansas station to Leadville (61 miles) the railroad is +still more aspiring. The higher we ascend the less striking are the +scenic effects, but the grades are not very severe till we come to +Malta, where it reaches 130; from Hilliers to Leadville the maximum is +176, the curves being often 15°. The general character of the country +may be conceived from these figures, but no words can convey any idea +of the wholesale destruction of timber which has marked the progress +of the explorers and prospectors. Where the axe was weary the blaze +and the fire were called in, and hundreds of miles of forest are laid +in blackened ruin. At last we are on a level with the hill-tops. +There, on the hill-tops and in the valleys of a sterile region in +front of you, amidst those tall chimneys vomiting out smoke and steam, +is a wilderness of wooden huts, "the Great Carbonate Camp"--where we +leave the train--spread out over an undulating plateau, broken into +mound-like hills and sharp hillocks--bustling streets filled with the +most remarkable swarm of all nations that ever settled on any one spot +in the world. The story of Leadville reads like a chapter out of some +book of Oriental fable. It is a huge barrack of wooden houses, with +some solid and important buildings, with masses of tree-stumps cropping +up in the centre of the main thoroughfares, pitched over an undulating, +rugged, dusty ledge. In the midst of blocks of houses sprout up the +chimneys of furnaces and mining works, the clang of machinery fills +the air, which is thick with clouds of dust. It was a few years ago an +utterly wild, lifeless waste amidst the mountains covered with forests, +when three brothers, named Gallagher, exploring from California, were +led by some genius, good or bad, to test the material of the rocks in +the ravine. They struck gold ore, and silver too, and they set up a +claim; and presently they sold their shares in the land which they had +appropriated, for 40,000_l._, which they divided. Two used their wealth +wisely, and made more of it, and, taking to themselves the members of +the family, throve exceedingly; one, not so wise, if he were quite as +good, did not prosper as well as his brothers. But the scene of their +operations was soon swarming with enterprising miners. There was a +mighty "boom." Now there is a city! Leadville is, I think, the most +astonishing city on earth, but I am not by any means inclined to say +that it is a place I should like to be astonished about for more than +a few hours. + +The party drove to the Morning Star, said to be the best mine in +Leadville; and the Duke, Lady Green, Sir Henry Green, and others, went +down the mine in miners' clothes or cloaks. Two others, whose names I +shall not give, remained above, and had, I fancy, the best of the time. +Afterwards we visited Grant's Smelting Works, and then back to the +Clarence Hotel and dined, strolling out afterwards through the town and +visiting the billiard saloons, the Grand Central Theatre, and finally, +where we were told Leadville life was to be seen in all its glory, the +faro and the kino tables, which, however, were doing but very little +business, as it was not until after midnight that play in the town +generally commenced. Instead of sleeping at the hotel, we resolved +to take refuge in the train, which was drawn up at the siding; and we +had to drive in order to reach it, as it was considered unsafe to walk +through the streets in the dark. + +We started at four o'clock next morning, June 18th, and on arriving +at Arkansas Station learned that an engine was off the line in front +of us. Breakdown gangs were sent for, and all the locomotive talent +amongst our passengers repaired quickly to the scene. As it was not +easy to lift the engine, the engineers adopted the expedient of laying +a temporary rail to turn its flank so as to enable us to pass round +it, which we did after a delay of about an hour. The Duke got out and +sat on the cow-catcher by way of a change. But the interest we took in +the scenery was somewhat diminished by the intelligence that the delay +caused by the engine would prevent our enjoying the "soda bath" we had +been promised at Cañon City, and the sight of the State Prison, where +murderers were to be paraded by the dozen. About twenty miles north +of the Grand Cañon, the gorges through which the river runs became +wider and deeper. All that has been written about the Grand Cañon +utterly fails to convey an adequate idea of its exceeding grandeur +and wildness. The rocks--closing in so that the spectator in the car, +looking forward, thinks the progress of the train must be arrested, +and that it is not possible for it to get out of the _cul de sac_ which +appears in front, rising aloft for upwards of two thousand five hundred +feet on each side--are coloured with the brightest hues, and present an +infinite variety of form. The impetuous current of the Arkansas River, +contracted at times to the breadth of some twenty or thirty yards, +and penned into a space in which the waters boil and toss as if about +to leap on and submerge the passing cars, roars wildly down below on +our right at a depth varying as the line rises and falls. But it is +at the Bridge--a triumph of engineering skill--that the horrors of +the pass culminate. The sides of the ravine approach so near that the +daring engineer was enabled to execute the idea of lowering from above +a [**triangle]-shaped frame or trestle of iron; and, the ends catching +on each side of the gorge, permitted him to work on it for the +construction of the iron platform over which the train is carried at a +height of some hundreds of feet right over the maddened river. You can +look down through the interstices of the girders and glance shudderingly +at the hell of waters below--a sight and sensation never to be +forgotten. The ravine gradually expands and the cliffs recede as the +line strikes eastwards; and though the scenery retains a wild and +savage character for many miles farther, the impressions of the Grand +Cañon caused us to regard it with comparative indifference. We heard +many tales of the great railway war which was waged for the possession +of the pass, of which traces still remained in the ruins of posts of +vantage and observation, and the works of the defeated railroad +visible on the other side of the ravine. At night we reached Pueblo +and took up our quarters in our own cars, and continued our journey, +after some delay, towards Kansas City. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +KANSAS TO ST. LOUIS. + + Liquor Law--Kansas Academy of Science--An Incident of Travel--A + Parting Symposium--Life in the Cars--St. Louis to New York. + + +_June 19th._--Still on the rolling prairies; in the country of +compulsory abstinence--the paradise of Sir Wilfred Lawson. At 9.30 +A.M. the train stopped at Newton, 431 miles from Pueblo, and 281 from +Kansas. + +Here a phenomenon--there was a man by the road side who walked with +unsteady step, whose legs tottered, and who lurched violently as he +came down the road at that early hour. "He is a sick man," observed +one of my friends in the train; "that gentleman has been taking +_medicine_." In the Kansas Act there is a clause enabling physicians, +in case of need, to order stimulants for the patients without penalty; +but I am told the doctors have generally refused to act upon that +permission, so I suppose our friend had been consulting an unlicensed +practitioner. + +It would be ill done, when I am anxious to acknowledge the pleasure +and profit which I derived from my passage through the State, if I +did not record the satisfaction with which I perused a volume of the +"Transactions of the Kansas Academy of Science," which by accident I +picked up at one of the stations. The very name speaks trumpet-tongued +for the progress which has been made in this wild region. The year +before last, the twelfth annual meeting of the Academy was held in +Topeka, and I find amongst the list of papers read such subjects +as these:--The Kansas Lepidoptera; Kansas Minerals; the Mounds of +Southern Kansas; Recent additions to Kansas Plants; Kansas Botany; +Kansas Meteorites; Phonetic representations of Indian Language; +Sinkholes; Elementary Sounds of Language; Mound-builders; On Recent +Indian Discoveries. And among the lecturers there was Professor B. +F. Mudge, who died last year, whose name probably is known to a very +limited number of scientific men outside the University of Kansas. +Generally the papers contributed by the gentlemen of the State attest +industry and attainments which make their praise of the Professor +particularly valuable. It is curious enough to pick up in a railway +carriage, traversing such a scene of comparative wildness and vast +uninhabited plains in Western Kansas, an exceedingly interesting +examination of the Helmholtz theories of sight. The object of the +lecturer would scarcely be suspected by the reader. We had already +been struck by the extraordinary absence of signalmen, or of any +of the complex apparatus of men and machinery which may be seen in +Europe, and notably in England, to report the progress of trains +on the lines. Collisions, however, occur in America where these +precautions are not taken, and the lecturer attributed a good deal of +these accidents to colour-blindness, which appears to have attracted +considerable attention in the United States. Surgeons, pilots, &c., +are tested for colour, and in the army colour-blindness disqualifies +the recruit for employment in the signal corps. Altogether the papers +give an impression that in this new State there are diligent students +of natural history and physics, and profound inquirers into all the +phenomena of life. There was a reverse to the medal. + +At a station where the train halted beyond Pueblo, a card was handed +to me by one of the stewards. "The gentleman is, as he seemed very +pressing, outside; but I told him you were engaged." I started +as I read the name and address on the card, as well I might. They +indicated that an old friend whom I had left in a condition of great +bodily weakness and infirmity in London, was close at hand in this +remote region--a wonderful if welcome fly in amber. I ran out of the +drawing-room into the next car, and there saw a man, agitated and +travel-worn, whom I had never, to the best of my belief, seen in my +life before. His story was told, if not soon, at least in time to +let me partly understand the situation ere the train moved off. The +stranger had been in the service of the gentleman whose card he sent in +to me, but had left it to better himself in America, and had gone out +as valet to an American of good position at Colorado Springs. He found, +however, according to his own account, that he was expected to do +things not required of a valet in his own country, such as lumbering, +wood-cutting, and the like, and so he had thrown up his situation +and was going back to England. He had had quite enough of Colorado +Springs. "I was not there above a month, and I was shot at twice," he +said. "Once because I made some remark in a bar-room, where a chap was +abusing Englishmen; and another time while I was speaking in the street +to a man a fellow had a grudge against. He fired at him across the +road, and the ball whistled within a hair's-breadth of my head." He had +arrived at Pueblo some time before our special, and as the morning was +warm, he walked into a bar near the platform, while the engine of his +train was watering, to get a glass of lemonade. As he was drinking it, +a man walked in and called for a glass of whisky, putting down, at the +same time, what seemed to be a bank note, on the counter. The boniface +said, "I haven't got change for this twenty-dollar bill--perhaps this +gentleman can oblige you." The unsuspecting Briton, who had put the +money for his passage to Liverpool in a purse, drew it out to change +the note, and the strange customer at once seized it from his hand, +and rushed off towards the street with his booty. The Britisher ran +after him, but checked his wild career when he saw, within an inch of +his head, the muzzle of a revolver which the robber had drawn, and the +fellow vanished. "Won't you help me to stop the thief; you see what has +happened?" exclaimed the victim turning to the barman. "I guess there +was no money in that purse, sir. And if there was, perhaps you had no +more right to it than he had." Then the Briton dashed off after Don +Guzman, shouting "police," and was at once accosted by an officer of +the Pueblo force. He hurriedly stated the facts. The policeman smiled. +"I think you won't see that pile agin," he remarked; "and if you +don't look sharp ye'll miss yer train, that's a fact!" The man had his +railway ticket all right, a few dollars in his pocket, and I told him +I would see him and get him a passage, if I found on inquiry his story +was true. My companions thought the tale suspicious--but I believe it +was true, and I subsequently franked the man to England. + +Now here we had an exemplification of the manners and customs of +the district. Such an act of violence and robbery might occur in +London--anywhere. But what of the apathy, or perhaps complicity, of the +bar man? And if it or they be considered not altogether abnormal, is +the conduct of the policeman to be accepted as quite consistent with +the discharge of a policeman's duty? Well, whilst I was pondering on +these things, there came to me the best possible adviser--a judge in +this Israel--our excellent Palinurus, Mr. White. He threw a new, if not +a side light on the subject. "Depend on it he is a confidence man. The +trains are full of them! Our conductors have express orders about the +rascals." And he explained that a confidence man is a swindler--very +often an Englishman, who makes it his business to look out for unwary +strangers, on whom he imposes with some tale of distress, or some +recital of imaginary misfortune and adventure. As the man I had seen +was coming on in the train in our wake, Mr. White promised to talk with +the conductor, and find out, if he could, the truth about the Pueblo +robbery. Before dusk a telegram was forwarded by him to me from the +station where he left us, to say that the conductor had no doubt the +man was robbed, but that it was partly his own fault, and to warn me to +be cautious in my dealings with him. + +We have now been travelling straight on end for 1160 miles, with only +two engineers and two firemen and one engine, a feat of endurance +which has greatly exercised the Duke of Sutherland, who, as a practical +director of the London and North-Western Railway, has knowledge of such +matters, and who contrasts the performance with the experience he has +on the home lines, where engines, engineers, and firemen would have +been relieved or laid up over and over again. The head engineer of the +line, who joined us, Mr. Hackney, formerly of Congleton, had become +accustomed to these journeyings and endurances, which were brought to +the front in our conversation by the engine-driver appearing at the +door of the carriage to claim a dollar which he had won from the Duke +in a bet that he could not do the distance without laying up the engine +for repairs. + +All the long Sabbath-day we travelled on through the prairie, catching +glimpses now and then of wooden villages, around which trees were +beginning to sprout up, and of the little churches with knots of carts, +waggons, horses, and buggies outside, and people waiting for the end +of the sermon. Now and then, perhaps at intervals of fifteen miles or +so, are places of larger importance, such as Emporia, a rising city on +the plains, where many steeples pointed aloft indicated considerable +diversity of creed. An authority, not always to be relied upon, stated +that there are fourteen churches belonging to the town. + +There was a parting symposium in the second Pullman ere we reached +Topeka. Mr. White, Major Anderson, General Brown, Mr. Jerome, and +my much wandering compatriot, a veritable Irish Ulysses, raised the +tuneful melodies of the "Golden Slipper," the "Little Brown Jug," and +the other tender psalmodies which had whiled away so many hours, for +the last time in our society, and the little gages which were but the +outward and visible signs of the regard we felt for our friends were +exchanged with honest effusion. There may be--nay, there are--many +jealousies and causes of estrangement between the people of the Old +Country and of the New, but between the individuals of both there is a +_camaraderie_ which cannot, I believe, be found between Englishmen and +the natives of any country except America. + +"Good bye! God bless you! Be sure if ever you come to England you shall +have a hearty welcome from me." "And from me!" "And me!" "And me!" The +engine bell tolled, and we moved slowly on. + +And we were left all alone! The pleasant companions of so many weeks +had gone! I wonder if they missed us as much as we missed them? + +While travelling across the Rockies and the desert to San Francisco +and back, our course of life was pretty uniform, and one day followed +another with almost perfect resemblance in the mode of existence and +in all things except the scenery and the country through which we +were passing. First, in the early morning came one of the attendants +to our bedside with a cup of coffee, and then the curtains of the +little cubicle were thrown aside and you looked out on either plain, +or mountain, or river, or col; and on the faces of early risers at +doors or windows as the train passed through some rising town. At one +end of the saloon there was a bath-room, and from the tank there was +always to be obtained sufficient water for the purpose of an early +dip, which was enjoyed as occasion offered in turn by the party. Then +a cigarette. Then we dropped in as people do at a country house, into +the sitting-room, and exchanged ideas as to the progress made during +the night, and the stoppages, wondered where we were, and had a little +conversation with the conductor or Arthur as to the place where we +could stop or get the papers--and so got over the morning till 9 +o'clock, when breakfast was announced, consisting of fish, poultry, +meat, fruit (I had nearly said flowers, for there was always a bouquet +on the table), tea, coffee, and cold dishes, with abundance of milk +and butter. Where the fish came from and how they were kept fresh was +matter of wonder, for the instances were very rare in which there was +any indication that it had not quite recently come out of the sea or +the river. The supply of ice was liberal and unfailing, and whenever +we stopped at any considerable station the whole disposable strength +of the attendants in the train was employed in grappling with large +blocks of it and stowing it away in the ice reservoir, in which were +the larder and the cellar for such wines as needed cooling, and for +the vegetables and meat, of which there were great stores constantly +laid in. Then after breakfast there was reading or sight-seeing, +investigating the line, examining the maps, receiving visits and +returning them in other parts of the train, till in the very hot days +it was necessary, after expelling the flies, which were troublesome on +occasion, to draw the dust-blinds and the curtains of the carriages, +to mitigate the fierceness of the sun. It was objected occasionally +that by this process we deprived ourselves of the opportunity of +what was called "seeing the country," but after all a glance now +and then is quite sufficient to reveal the general character of the +districts through which the train is running; and the most diligent and +painstaking observer cannot keep his eyes fixed steadily for a day on +the external aspects of the region through which he is travelling. I +should be sorry to declare that every one was wide awake all the time +of the forenoon and up to the period of lunch, which too often exceeded +on the side of many dishes, being, in fact, a mid-day dinner; but then +no one was obliged to eat more than he liked, or drink either. Then +came the longest stretch of the day, and at its close another banquet; +and as the sun declined and the temperature decreased, we could take +more pleasure in looking out at the fantastic forms of the vegetation +which clothed the arid rocks in the desert, or on the bright green +prairie, or on the towering mountains, waiting till the sun had set, +generally in a blaze of glory. There were, of course, interruptions and +variations as we halted at the more important places; disappointments +about letters which had been telegraphed for and which were expected +day after day, constituted also a matter of conversation and discourse. +There was an harmonium in the sitting-room of the palace car, but +no one had the art of playing it, although we had plenty of music of +another sort; for after dinner the gentlemen of the railroad party who +had not dined with us came in, and we were never tired of listening to +the songs, so original and amusing, which they gave with great spirit +and admirable time and tune, for it happened they all possessed good +voices, and the melodies with which the troops of coloured minstrels +have now rendered the world familiar were then new to us. + +During the whole of our tour the weather has been most favourable. +With the exception of the rainy days in Canada, and the cold and +rawness which characterised the time of our short visit to Richmond, +there was nothing worse to complain of than continual sunshine. Now +and then the temperature was a little too good to be pleasant when we +were traversing the beds of the dry seas in the desert in Colorado and +California, but that was something to look back upon with satisfaction, +because there was no time lost in keeping within doors owing to the +rain and storm or cold. "Within doors," however, is a phrase scarcely +applicable to our mode of life, as it would imply that we were in +stable habitations, whereas, as will have been seen by those who +have accompanied us so far, we "lived and moved, and had our being" +in railway carriages; a mode of life rendered so comfortable by all +appliances, that it was sometimes no relief to be told that we would +have to pass the night at an hotel. + +For nine days and nine nights in succession, on one occasion, we never +slept out of the carriages or got out of the train except to take a +stroll about the station, or a peep into the street of a small town +whilst we were waiting, and one got quite accustomed to that nomad and +yet civilised mode of existence, where at every halting-place we were +supplied with the latest intelligence by the local papers, and made +the recipients of some attention or courtesy, visits and compliments +(the remarks of the other sort not being many), bouquets of flowers, +presents of fruit, and plenty of conversation. But that my critics +might say I dilate too much upon the material enjoyment of life, I +would describe at length the means which were supplied in the course +of these long journeys for animal enjoyment. Never could there be found +more attentive and obliging domestics than the coloured men who waited +upon us--Arthur and his fellows. There lived in the kitchen compartment +of the train, at the end of one of the saloons, a coloured cook, +very intelligent and gossipy, full of quaint conceits and dishes and +conversation, who commenced life as a slave on a Southern plantation, +probably adopted for indoor purposes on account of his smartness. He +liberated himself in the course of the war, and marched off with a +regiment of Federals in the capacity of cook and body-servant to one +of the officers, wherein he saw a great amount of very hard fighting +at very close quarters. This adventurous modern Othello was wont to +discourse with much animation when he came out for a breath of fresh +air on the platform and could find anybody to talk to him, although +he could move no more tender heart than that of Sir Henry Green. The +gentlemen of the Atchison, &c., Railway, when travelling with us, had +a _cordon bleu_ in the saloon--an Italian or Frenchman, I think, or +at all events a French-speaking man, who had served also, and would +have done credit to an establishment where faults in a _chef_ would +not lightly be condoned. In the interchange of courtesies, Mr. White +and his friends invited our party now and then to dine in the saloon, +which was not "across the way," but up a little, on the line, being the +saloon in front of us. + +But here we are at Kansas City once again! At 5.30 P.M. the train +arrived at the platform, which was gay with a Sunday crowd, of +whom many were negresses--black, brown, brindled, and yellow +_citoyennes_--in much variety of colour and garmenting. Unlike Samson, +their weakness is in their hair, and like Achilles, they are vulnerable +about the heels (to the arrows of an æsthetical criticism, which +accepts the Greek idea of beauty in form); but they seemed to enjoy +life amazingly, and not to be in need of beaux; perhaps the happiest +people in the world now that their chattel days are over. It was late +when we turned into our berths, for it was a lovely night and the +fire-flies exercised a great attraction over us, but at last the charm +was worn out and we slept till morning without a break. + +_June 20th._--Still the same boundless plain. In vain does one look for +the grass fields with close, even, carpet-like surface to be seen in +Europe. We are still passing through exceedingly rich land--the fields +covered with flocks of sheep and herds of good-looking cattle. There +are more trees by the stream-side, and shrubs growing in the hollows. +Habitations are more frequent, and so are fencing and planting. As the +sun was setting we approached St. Louis. There were some park-like +glades, and vistas opening up to pleasant mansions, amid grounds +showing marks of culture. There had been a severe thunderstorm the +night before, and the St. Louis Station had still traces of its effects +in pools of mud. But the rain had cooled the air, and the people were +rejoicing exceedingly in the great improvement that had taken place +in the weather, for, they told us, men and women had been dropping +down with the heat a few days ago as though they had been struck by +musketry. + +The appearance of the St. Louis Terminus gave one a high idea of the +importance of this city. Eight trains were waiting on their respective +lines to start with passengers to all parts of the Union; and by +the simple device of placing at the end of each train a large board +announcing its destination and the time of its departure, much anxiety +was saved to intending passengers, not to speak of the irritation of +officials avoided by this simple expedient. The journey was continued +by the Indianopolis and Vandalia, and by what is called the "Pa'handle" +line to the Pennsylvania Railroad on to Philadelphia. The train was +timed on Tuesday so that we were able to see the famous passage over +the Alleghany Mountains from Conemaugh to Altoona. For nearly eleven +miles we were carried without steam, and with the brakes on, through +very fine scenery, down the mountain-side, but the summit was crossed +in the darkness of a tunnel 1200 yards long. There are some striking +engineering feats in the way of curves and gradients, and the trace +of the line is very bold all the way down to Altoona, where the +Pennsylvania Railroad engine and machinery shops are established--the +centre of a population of some 17,000 souls, where twenty years ago +"there were," as a friend said, "only bears, deer, woodpeckers, and +skallywags." The Duke, Mr. Stephen, and our railway experts got out +and visited the workshops, and came back very much pleased at the +discovery of several London and North-Western men in good positions +in the Pennsylvania Railroad Company's service, who welcomed their +old directors with effusion, and that there was nothing visible there +for Crewe to copy, unless perhaps cast-iron wheels. The speed at +which we travelled was a sensible proof that we were once more on the +line of our old friends of Pennsylvania. From Altoona to Harrisburg, +132 miles, we rattled along in two hours and forty-three minutes. On +another stretch of the line we travelled eighty-three miles in one +hour and forty-two seconds, including stoppages; and the rapid motion +was very agreeable, as there was a perceptible increase of temperature +after we reached the plains and approached the beautiful valley of the +Susquehannah--a scene of industry, prosperity, and peace. Fortunately +there was a good light on the river, and we had a fine view of the +country all the way to Harrisburg under the rays of the setting sun. +A little farther on we were gratified by the appearance of General +Roberts at a station on the way, where he was awaiting the Duke to +congratulate him on his safe return from the Western expedition, and we +bade him farewell at his own house, with many sincere and well-deserved +acknowledgments of great and constant kindness. Then over the river by +the noble bridge, and on to Philadelphia. We did not visit Pittsburg, +which was vomiting out masses of smoke, nor did we halt this time at +the capital of the Quaker State. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +NEW YORK--NEWPORT--DEPARTURE. + + Coney Island--Newport--Bass-fishing--Habit of + Spitting--Brighton Beach--Newport--Coaching--Extra + Ecclesiam--Victories of American Horses--Newport + Avenues--Return to New York--Our last day in America. + + +The special train was detained by the immense amount of traffic on the +line, as we approached New York, and we did not reach Brooklyn till a +little before 11 P.M. on June 21, so that it was past midnight when we +ascended the steps of the Windsor Hotel, which we had selected by way +of a change, and found to be every way commendable, with the exception +of its distance from the busy parts of the city. The following day +was devoted to letter reading and writing, receiving visitors, and +various attempts "to go out," which were not generally successful, for +New York was palpitating with the intense heat. The "heated term" was +in full vigour, but it was now quite temperate in comparison to the +excesses which had marked its advent some time before our arrival. In +the evening we got up strength and courage enough to go to Wallack's +Theatre, a very pretty, well-constructed house, and saw "The World" +excellently acted and admirably put on the stage. Next day, June +23rd, in virtue of a solemn league and covenant with Uncle Sam and +Mr. Hurlbut, the Duke and I devoted ourselves to fresh fields and +pastures new, and ordered ourselves accordingly for Coney Island. A +long bank of sand by the sea-shore has, by an accident, become one of +the most crowded resorts in the world, and to-day there were races in +the new ground. It was not, as we found, so easy to get there. Having +the advantage of two experienced guides, our party of four managed to +break up into two and to miss each other; one taking the boat at one +iron pier, and the other embarking by a different mode of conveyance. +But as we were bound to see Coney Island, the Race course being a +secondary object, our temporary separation did not prove a source of +great annoyance. + +The early settlers would indeed have been astonished if they could +look round and see what they have brought the quiet place to in these +later days. They were Quakers persecuted by the good Christians of New +England, who were driven out of Boston as ruthlessly as though they +had been malignants and papists of the worst sort. They settled the +township of Gravesend about 250 years ago, and amongst the conspicuous +settlers occurs the title and name of Lady Deborah Moody, of whom this +deponent knows nothing, but wonders how, with such a title, she managed +to have influence amongst a Society of Friends. + +A ship was built, so the Americans say, of 70 tons in 1699, by the +descendants of the Quaker settlers, and less than 100 years later +the bold republicans, abandoning the doctrines of peace, engaged +and captured an English corvette off the island. It was all along of +General How, who landed his troops here and set the people to work on +the fortifications he threw up, whether they would or no. A corvette, +bound to Halifax, anchored off the island, and an old whaler, who, +says the chronicler, must have been smarting under the wrongs he had +suffered at the hands of the red-coats, or who possibly regarded the +work as he would the capture of a finner or a bottle-nose, imparted +to a few trusty friends the idea of "cutting her out." So embarking at +night in a couple of boats, they stole down with muffled oars and ran +up under the stern of the ship. There was no watch, and through the +cabin windows the officers could be seen playing cards. The crews of +the boats boarded the corvette simultaneously, seized, overpowered, and +bound the officers and men, lowered them into their boats, and, having +set the man-of-war on fire, pulled over to the Jersey shore with their +prisoners. It is to be hoped that the demeanour and language of the +captain have been misrepresented by local tradition; but he is said +to have cried bitterly, and to have exclaimed, "To be surprised and +captured by two blooming egg-shells is too blasted bad!" + +There was a long period of neglect before Fashion and the populace +found out the attractions of Coney Island. Fishermen, oyster-catchers, +and sportsmen visited the sandy beach from time to time; then after +a while a few houses were run up of a very inferior class, and these +were frequented by the very worst of the scum of New York, so that it +was almost dangerous, and certainly disgusting, to go among them, while +the scenes on the beach, to which the present proceedings afford such +a contrast, were described as being of the most disgraceful character. + +The official directions for spending a day at Coney Island certainly +indicate a belief in the possession of enormous physical energy and +indefatigable curiosity on the part of the visitors in those who +compose the code. Having given you sailing instructions by the iron +steam boat to Bay Ridge for the Sea Beach Railway (ticket 35 cents), +you are to visit the Sea View Palace Hotel, the Piazza, the two iron +piers, the _Camera obscura_ (10 cents), the Great Milking Cow, the +top of the observatory (15 cents); then to eat a Rhode Island clam +bake (50 cents), visit the aquarium (10 cents), take a park waggon and +ride over the Concourse to Brighton; see the hotel grounds and bathing +pavilion there; then take the Marine Railway (5 cents) to Manhattan +Beach; visit the Oriental Hotel and take the Marine Railway to Point +Breeze (10 cents) and return back to Brighton Beach Pavilion and take +a bath; then see the Museum of Living Wonders (10 cents), dine at the +Hotel Brighton, hear a concert in the evening, and return to New York +by 11 o'clock. "This trip," observes the compiler, "may fatigue one, +but the excitement soon overcomes the trouble." Coney Island is indeed +an institution. + +Along the sea front of the bank for some three or four miles there +has been constructed an esplanade lined with seats, and defended from +the sea by a stone wall. Outside there is a belt of shingle on which +the surf breaks, but not violently, unless in bad weather. Large +bathing establishments, with every appliance, are placed at convenient +intervals along the shore. Here in the season tens of thousands of +people may be seen, all properly and decently attired, disporting in +the waves. At the time of our visit, the hour and the season of the +year seemed not to be favourable to the indulgence. We were too late +in the day. It is an early place, and from 7 till 9 A.M. from the +month of June to the end of September are described as the orthodox +periods. Nevertheless the spectacle was quite unique, and if you can +imagine Brighton with half-a-dozen Pavilions blown out to twice their +size, and the largest hotels multiplied by ten in length, breadth, and +depth, you may fancy what the Coney Island front is, provided always +that you can also conjure up (literally) myriads of well-dressed men, +women, and children perambulating the esplanade or sitting in the +grounds around the various establishments which occupy a large space +inland--pavilions, hotels, exhibitions, restaurants, and club-houses. +There were fireworks going on in broad day; but these were principally +for the purpose of exhibiting very ingenious Japanese figures, which +were discharged from bombs, and which gradually descending were objects +of eager competition amongst the younger members of the enormous +multitude. And with all so much good-humour, so much propriety of +demeanour; none of the brutal rushes of "roughs" which disgust one +with English popular assemblages--none of the brutal horse-play, and +screams, and unmeaning cries of the 'Arrys and the Bills of our popular +resorts. + +Looking at Mr. Marshall's excellent book on the United States, which +we found to be copious and accurate, I was struck by what he says +respecting a habit of the people which, according to my experience, +has very much decreased since I was last in the States, but which +he finds in as full force, and repulsive as ever. I am bound to say +I think the habit of spitting has very much diminished, but from +numerous evidences, from the presence of spittoons in every room and +in the passages of the hotels, and from public admonitions, such as +one we saw at some of the theatres, that the audience would not spit +upon the stage, I must believe that it still exists. What the cause +of this habit may be it is not easy to determine. It cannot be in the +race, because it is scarcely an "English" habit. I would be inclined +to attribute it to the drinking of iced water, but ladies in America +use the national beverage quite as freely as the men, and spitting is a +masculine failing. Can it be a result of climate? Scarcely. For in the +States, British-born people do not seem to be affected by the influence +of the habit in those around them after many years' residence. Smokers +and non-smokers alike indulge in the practice, so that tobacco cannot +be charged with the disagreeable custom. I assume that it is as common +as Mr. Marshall asserts it is, but I am bound to say, according to +my own observation and experience on my last visit, that there was no +evidence to show that it was common or national. Chewing tobacco also +appears to me to have fewer votaries than formerly. A remark to that +effect at Richmond brought upon me something like a rebuke from the +gentleman to whom I spoke, a Judge of the land. "No, sir," he said, +"not at all! I rather think we chew more than ever!" And, to illustrate +his faith, he produced a silver box, shaped a plug of no doubt very +excellent weed, and thrust it into his mouth. I do not recollect, +however, meeting a gentleman in the course of our journey who used +tobacco in that way, with that exception. + +In the grounds in front of the pavilion, where an excellent orchestra +of some one hundred performers were playing, sat a very large and +appreciative audience, who applauded with discrimination, and were +content with the good performance of each piece. + +Our common rendezvous was the Surf Club, one of the numerous convivial +associations for which Coney Island seems to be specially adapted; +and I presume the name had nothing at all to do with any supposed +amusements of the members in connection with the surf on the beach +outside. There was some difficulty in finding our way through a +labyrinth of rooms all filled with guests: with corridors swarming +with people; with vast halls, where at hundreds of tables there were +seated people engaged in the consumption of the _menu_ of a Coney +Island restaurant, abounding in strange dishes and attended by armies +of waiters. At a rough guess, I should say there may have been about +4000 people in the building--and this was but one of several--I think +the Brighton Beach Hotel, but of this I am not quite sure. + +When the Prospect Park and Coney Island Railroad was opened none +believed in its success, but the foresight of the projector was +justified; and when it was found that respectable people would go +there, if the vagabonds of both sexes and their associates were driven +away, the police asserted themselves, and swept off the gamblers and +the others of a still more dangerous class, who were to be found there +in increasing numbers every year; and then hotels were erected and +landing-places made for the steamers; and now the electric light blazes +in a hundred halls, and music and rejoicing sound late into the night, +contending with the noise of the surf upon the beach. Bowling-alleys, +shooting-grounds, archery, croquet, sailing and rowing, all invite some +of the visitors, according to their tastes. An amusing exemplification +of the ingenuity of American advertisers is afforded by the sailing +vessels, which display in enormous characters on their main-sails +the names of quack medicines, from which no corner of this continent +appears to be safe. + +On June 24th the party, which had been somewhat dislocated, reunited +their scattered forces, and at 2 P.M. started by train after a little +repose, for Newport, R.I. It was a kind of holiday after our travels, +but somewhat out of place, for we were told the Ocean House was +scarcely ready; but we should not have found it out, had we not been +informed of the fact. The newspapers had been on the alert, and soon +after the Duke's arrival visitors began to call and invitations to pour +in--some well-nigh irresistible, for they included opportunities for +experiences of bass-fishing. + +_June 25th._--Newport has not yet put on its festive attire. It is +not the season, and we ought not to be here. Nevertheless it is still +so pleasant, and so respectably dull, that one enjoys it amazingly. +After breakfast we walked down to the seashore and sat gazing on +vacancy, and on three yellow ladies collecting clams. Returning thence +in a very hot sun, ran to earth in the hotel where, presently, there +were many visitors; and how kind and anxious to please they were! Mr. +Fearing drove up later on the top of a drag, and whirled us away to +a charming fishing-box on the shore, in order to judge for ourselves +what bass-fishing was like. It was a very pretty drive, and Mr. Fearing +handled his "four" as if he were bent on joining the Coaching Club--not +indiscreetly, as the horses were not accustomed to going together, but +with satisfactory decision--and we all were landed without mishap by +the side of the road, close to one of the best-organised sporting-boxes +I have ever seen, built entirely for the comfort and delectation of +Mr. Fearing and two or three friends who own the bass-fishing stands, +at the end of one of which a gentleman was then busily engaged in his +pastime, for the sea comes rolling up upon the rocks within some forty +or fifty yards of the sward of the green meadows on which the house +is placed. From it projects into the breakers a platform supported +on iron pillars, at the end of which there is an enlargement of the +structure to enable the fisherman and his attendants to stand at their +ease--the one in hurling the bait and the other in preparing it. And +first, as a proof that the labour is not futile, there was exhibited a +terrible-headed monster with great scales, which had been caught that +morning by Mr. Whipple--a bass of 57 lbs. weight, of which I think the +skull and jaws and gills must have weighed a third. The fishing is not, +as I found, to be done at once, but needs a little practice. The art of +casting consists in the double operation of jerking the bait from the +top of a stiff rod, and checking the run of the line without permitting +it to overrun, which it is very apt to do in an inexperienced hand, by +a pressure of the thumb on the reel, just sufficient to let the weight +of the bait carry out the hook to the farthest stretch of the jerk. +The rod, not more than eight or nine feet long, a work of great art, +and costly, is furnished with a reel, also very expensive, containing a +couple of hundred yards of prepared line. At the end is a large single +hook, sometimes secured to a piece of piano-wire, as the "blue fish" +will cut through the strongest cord or gut. To this is fixed a junk of +fat oily fish, of which supplies are kept in a basket close at hand, +to be cut up for ever and ever by the attendant, and ever and anon +pieces are chucked into the sea, and being of a very unctuous nature, +the oil rising to the top, floats away on the surface of the water, and +attracts the bass within measurable distance of the platform. Captain +Fearing threw, Mr. Whipple threw, and the gentlemen at the end of +another pier emulated them, and pounds, perhaps stones, of bait were +thrown into the sea, but the bass, which are capricious, like most +fish, were not to be caught; and so after a time we returned to the +cottage. + +I was, unfortunately, unable to accept an invitation from one of the +many hospitable gentlemen in Newport, to go out and spend the evening +on a desolate island, where they are said generally to have exceedingly +good sport, in order to get up before sunrise the following morning +and essay my skill, or want of it, in bass-fishing. Mr. Wright, an +enthusiastic sportsman, availed himself of a like invitation with +great pleasure and with many anticipations of delight, but on Monday +morning he returned weather-beaten back, and boot-less and bass-less +home, although he assured me he enjoyed himself very much, and had very +agreeable company out at sea on the rock. + +The following day (June 26th) was cloudy and cool, and all that was +of rank and fashion in Newport went to All Souls Church. There are +many churches in Newport, and in the height of the season, each is, +I am told, well filled on Sundays. And wonderful it is that there is +neither dissension nor controversy among the congregations. They mingle +together coming and going, affording to me, who have been accustomed at +times to observe the manners and customs of my country men and women +on like occasions in Ireland and elsewhere, ground for wonder, not +unintermingled with an ardent desire that we, nearer home, could learn +the secret of this moderation. + +Mr. Bridgman, our fellow-passenger in the "_Gallia_," is enjoying his +_villeggiatura_ with his wife and family in a pretty little cottage. +We were very much pleased indeed to renew our acquaintance with him, +although there was no scope for the display of his fine talents as a +salad-maker. It was not foggy enough for the ladies, who delight in a +thick and moist _brume_ from the Banks, and who sit at the open windows +when it comes on for the sake of their complexions, as it is esteemed +a sovereign cosmetic beyond Maydew or Kalydor. Whether it be rightly +credited with these virtues or not, I can answer for the presence of +many fair ladies in church, and on their way to and fro in the streets. +We dined with Mr. and Mrs. Keene, who reside in one of the best villas +of the many charming dwellings in Newport. + +The victories of the American horses in France and England created +an enthusiasm in the States almost as intense as though they had been +won by the national fleets or armies. From one end of the Union to the +other the news was flashed the same day, and we saw the names of the +conquerors in large letters in every newspaper. Unfortunately there +came at the same time reports of foul play to American competitors at +the hands of some English roughs, and there was a good deal of heat +caused by the objections taken to the entry of the "Cornell Crew" at +Henley. These international contests should be very carefully conducted +and judiciously worked, or they will do more harm than good, if indeed +they do any good at all. The injurious insinuations respecting the age +of Foxhall could but excite indignation in the minds of honourable men +against whom they were directed. + +There is a State House in the town, and there is also a mansion +occupied by Commodore Perry, but the most useful inhabitant of the +place appears to have been one Abraham Touro, a Jew, who gave his name +to the park, a cemetery, a synagogue, and a street. Altogether there +is rather an old-world air and look in the town; but one must go along +the Avenues to have an idea of the charms which lead so many of the +principal families of the Eastern States to make the place a resort +when they are not enjoying the delights of travel in Europe, or that +blissful existence which endears Paris to our Transatlantic relatives. +Bellevue Avenue is bordered by a number of very sprightly dwellings, +of every order and disorder of architecture, and rejoicing in all the +extraordinary richness and elaboration of American workmanship in wood, +each standing in a little park of its own, generally rich with trees, +shrubs, and an ornamental garden. Several of these interiors, as we +had reason to know, were furnished in the very best taste, and filled +with objects of art, excellent examples of good masters, principally +foreign, and articles imported from all the corners of the globe. Of +an afternoon the ladies might be seen driving, in very well turned-out +carriages, to some rendezvous where lawn-tennis or a picnic awaited +them; and altogether, even at this time of year, Newport presented a +picture of great refinement and comfort, which enable the visitor to +understand how attractive it must be in the height of the season, and +why it is Americans are so fond of life in Rhode Island. + +I am not in a position to throw the smallest doubt upon the statement +that the mass of stones in the form of a tower, ivy and moss covered, +and evidently the work of human hands, was not built by the hardy +Norsemen hundreds of years before the arrival of Columbus. There are, +moreover, people who declare that the erection is due to a British +governor of the colony, when it was more prosperous as a commercial +resort, though not so fashionable as it is at present. But American +antiquaries take a great pleasure in propping up the proofs which have +been adduced of Scandinavian enterprise and discovery on the continent, +many centuries before Vespuccius, Columbus, and the English navigators +lived. + +We dined on the evening of the 27th at the house of Mr. Shattock, +a gentleman of New York, who had assembled a party of very pleasant +people to meet the Duke, and kindly hastened his dinner-hour to suit +our convenience, as we were obliged to go on board the Fall River boat, +which called at 9.30 P.M. to take up passengers for the Empire City. +There was some difficulty about getting cabins or state rooms as they +are called, but "Uncle Sam," who came from New York to consort with us +quietly, applied himself diligently to telegraph wires, telephones, +and the like, and when the great steamer came alongside the wharf +our dormitories were ready. The night was calm and fine. There was an +excellent band, quite worthy of being called an orchestra, on board, +which played to the delight of a large audience till it was bed-time. +As a "sight" for a foreigner, nothing could be more striking than +the vast saloon, brilliantly illuminated, with hundreds of people on +sofas, chairs, and benches, reading or conversing in the intervals +of the music, and presenting infinite varieties of type and class, +yet all so orderly and well-behaved; and if you moved quietly through +the crowd, your ear caught many strange languages interpolating the +American speech--German, French, Polish, Russian, Italian, and, perhaps +the natives would say, British. There is some care observed in the +locking up of cabins, and I believe there are detectives and police on +board the boats; but it is said they do not look after the morals of +the passengers, and concern themselves only with vested interests in +portable property. There was no sea on, and the only motion was caused +by the beating of the paddles and the throbbing of the engine, and +early in the morning of the next day we were at our quarters in our +comfortable hotel in the Fifth Avenue. + +_June 29th._--And yet more excursions. Bound by a long-standing +engagement, a small detachment of our party set out this evening to +visit Mr. Barlow at his country place, Long Island, which travellers, +perhaps, have not much occasion to see. The Mayor of New York (Mr. +Grace) and Mr. O'Gorman were on the steamer which took the Duke, Mr. S. +Ward, Mr. Hurlbut, and our host down the Sound, and were introduced to +us by Mr. Barlow. The first-named gentleman I mentioned in one of the +early pages of this diary in connection with the vigorous efforts to +purify the civic atmosphere made by him on his accession to office. I +learn that he has since obtained a large measure of success, and let me +hope corresponding thanks from his fellow-citizens. Attacks on corrupt +influences are apt to receive lukewarm support from the politicians. +The power of the respectable classes, which hold aloof from politics, +is not large. Mr. Grace had more opposition than help from his own +countrymen, who have been long nearly omnipotent in New York, and who +monopolise a large proportion of the civic offices and employment. +Mr. O'Gorman, one of the traversers with O'Connell in the famous State +trials, is one of the leading lawyers of New York, and is held in much +respect by his fellow-citizens. The "old Country" is still dear to him, +but I seemed to gather from his remarks that he shared in the distrust +which American lawyers generally expressed respecting the principle of +the Land Bill then under discussion as far as interference with the law +of contract--"the very foundation of social life"--was involved. Glen +Cove is a beautiful place, standing high above the level of the sea, +and commanding charming views of the sound and of the opposite shore. +It is surrounded by trees, ornamented by woodland and fine natural +groves, broken up by ravines, through which trickle streams of water. +The mansion is furnished with every comfort and luxury, and we had a +garden to saunter about in the morning, and a genial hostess to talk +to, and her fair daughter to sing for us, so that it would have pleased +us well to have made a longer sojourn at Glen Cove. Here we passed two +very peaceful days, part of Wednesday and Thursday, and in a pleasant +drive with our host in the early morning had some slight outlook on +umbrageous Long Island. "_O! si angulus iste!_" It is 115 miles long +and 14 miles broad, and quite big enough for me! And there be deer +in the woods and trout in the rivers, and fish in all the creeks, +and game in the wooded lagoons, and forest, lake, and civilised life, +and many things to please the eye; and then the comet was so good as +to display his glories and his tail before Glen Cove. But our time +of departure from the States was drawing near, and there were still +things to be done in New York, and many engagements to be kept, ere we +started on our homeward journey on July 2nd; and at 12.35 on the 30th +June the Duke and I took the "cars" at a rural station, and reached +New York at 2.35, in time for a run through Tiffany's and some little +shopping and visiting. There was a dinner arranged by "Uncle Sam" at +"Sutherland's" in honour of the famous city restaurant. The house is +one of a type which has, I believe, disappeared in the "City," where +once flourished famous establishments such as Williams' Beef Shop +in the Old Bailey, Dolly's in Paternoster Row, the Billingsgate Fish +Ordinary, Jacquet's, &c., like it in character. Great New Yorkers do +not disdain to cross the threshold, within which they find admirable +fare and excellent wines--the national delights of clam chowder, clam +soup, soft-shell crabs, and many other Transatlantic delicacies--at +the far end of Broadway, still holding its own against the fashionable +restaurants. Of the party who dined there with Chancellor Robertson +and others in 1861, only "Uncle Sam," Mr. S. Barlow, and I survive; but +the host, a granitic sort of man, with a kindly Scottish heart warming +the case inside, seems capable of presiding over his feasts for another +generation. + +_July 1st._--It was difficult to realise the idea that this was our +last day in America, but the truth was forced on us by the practical +duties of getting the baggage ready and settling up generally, ending +with a dinner at the Turf Club, where we met Mr. Keene, of Foxhall +fame, who had also entertained us at Newport, Mr. Jerome, Mr. Stuart, +Mr. Travers, and other fathers of the New York sporting world, which +seems very like our own, and had to drink madeira of all but fabulous +antiquity and excellence. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +RETURN TO EUROPE. + + The "_City of Berlin_"--The Inman Line--The Service at Roche's + Point--Queenstown Discomforts--A sorry Welcome Home. + + +_July 2nd._[B]--Up at 5.30. The Duke, Lady Green, Sir Henry, Mr. +Wright, Edward, all engaged in the transport department, with Mr. +Trowbridge in observation; incessant activity. The Queen Anne coach +was in readiness at 7.30, and in half an hour more we were discharged +at the Inman wharf. There was a great flotilla--five large steamers +leaving at the same period for Liverpool, and there was the usual +throng at the landing-places of friends to bid "good-bye" to those who +were about to cross the Atlantic. The steamer we had selected belonged +to the Inman line, and whatever there may have been wanting to the eye +on board, compared to the trimness and paint of the Cunard steamers, +there was nothing to regret in our accommodation or service. There were +so many passengers that the dining-saloon, illuminated by the electric +light--which was also used for the purpose of lighting the engine-room +and the lamps in the corridors--would not contain them all at the same +time, and so there were two messes for dinner. Epergnes filled with the +most beautiful flowers were ranged in order, and a rampant war-steed +composed of white roses was displayed on the table. I am not about to +give a log-book, or to trespass on the patience of my readers by an +account of such an ordinary event as a passage home. The second day +after we left New York was the anniversary of Independence, July 4th, +and the day was duly celebrated by the citizens of the United States, +who constituted the large majority of our fellow-passengers. The "stars +and stripes" were hoisted at the main, and the cabin was draped with +British and American flags. But there was no speechifying, and the +spread-eagle was content with moderate flights; a recitation and a song +or two, and the fire of champagne corks, being the only indications of +an extraordinary festivity. + +About this time of the year the Atlantic, in the latitudes which +we traverse, is rather vexed of fogs; and if one be disposed to low +spirits, I know nothing which weighs upon him more than the sound of +the fog-horn. But what must it be for the captain, who is perforce +obliged to go at full speed, or as near to it as he can, with the +expectation every moment of some startled cry from the bow "Sail right +ahead!" Nor is it quite out of the running that an iceberg may be +taking a sail across his course. Fortunately we had no experiences of +the kind; and as night was falling on the 10th July land was in sight. + +The lights of the Fastnet were seen through drifting haze, and about 10 +o'clock at night the "_City of Berlin_" steamed through a rising sea, +with a strong beam wind, into the roadstead of Roche's Point, burned +her rockets, and laid-to for the steamer to take the mails, and those +passengers who had decided to land, on shore. + +It was blowing freshly, and rain fell heavily; and as we looked down +from the lighted decks on the murky water, and made out the tug as +she paddled up to us, rising and falling on the waves, we were seized +with reasonable misgivings as to the propriety of leaving our ship and +taking to such a craft. I am bound to say that our experience more than +amply justified them. + +I am writing these lines with a very faint hope that any amendment +will be introduced, in consequence of what I say, into the abominable +service between the American vessels off Roche's Point and Queenstown. +In fine weather and in daylight it is not of much consequence, perhaps, +what discomfort one may be exposed to in a short passage to the +shore; but to affront women and children with the misery which must be +experienced at night time and in bad weather, in the steamers employed +in the service, is little short of barbarous, if it be not indeed +altogether so. + +After I had got down upon the deck of the little steamer and surveyed +the scene around me, I thought that it would have been much wiser to +have gone on with my friends to Liverpool; but I had some engagements +in Ireland, and so had the experience I was glad not to share with +my fellow-passengers, on whom I should have liked the old country +to have made a favourable impression. There was the great steamer, +with hundreds of waving hands, and the sound of friendly voices +bidding us "God speed," a blaze of lights, and almost as steady as +the solid earth, as the horrible little tug puffed away, and, getting +from under her lee at once, encountered the swell. If she could have +ridden over the water below, she certainly could not escape that which +came down from above; so that we were all pretty wet and cross and +miserable in the half-hour which elapsed before we reached the shore. +Fortunately, there were not many passengers who availed themselves +of the opportunity; but the deck of the steamer was crowded by poor +people returning to their native country. Accommodation for the +cabin passengers, except seats on the wet and sloppy decks, there was +none. There was a little cabin, stuffy and comfortless, and moreover +occupied by a couple of women who had come out to see friends by way +of a pleasure excursion, and who were suffering the last extremities +of sea-sickness. The spray broke over the luggage and passengers; +it was in such circumstances that the custom-house officers began +their search. One of them, opening my bag, which was unlocked, found +a small revolver. It was unloaded, and there was no ammunition for +it; but, nevertheless, it was seized, for I was "importing arms into +a proclaimed district without licence." A similar mishap occurred to +a Spanish officer, who was not quite so easily appeased as I was by +the assurance that the arm would be given up on proper application +to the police. His revolver, he insisted, was part of his uniform, a +necessity of his existence, and the authorities might as well seize +his epaulettes or spurs. However, my deadly weapon was restored to me +some days afterwards, after a correspondence with the custom-house, +and I dare say the Hidalgo was equally fortunate. These were incidents +to denote that we were in the midst of trouble. There was but a sorry +welcome for us when we landed at Queenstown. Not a car to be found, +that I could see; but there were a few porters, and the agent of the +hotel at the pier; and, commending my luggage to his care, I walked to +the establishment. It surely cannot be quite an unaccustomed event for +a steamer to arrive at Queenstown at that time of night! The last train +for Cork had gone; and it might have been expected that lighted rooms +and some sort of preparation would have awaited the travellers; for +every vessel that touches at Queenstown, coming from America, surely +lands a few people needing rest and refreshment? A demoralised waiter, +who appeared to think that such a thing had never happened in the +whole course of his experience, as the inroad of ten or twelve people +asking for supper and bedrooms, informed us that nothing could be done +until the gentleman who represented the hotel at the landing-place had +arrived; and so we sat on the stairs for half an hour, and were then +shown into a gaunt room, dimly lighted by gas. There was nothing ready. +The hungry people, by dint of patience and perseverance, eventually +succeeded about midnight in obtaining some poor substitute for supper +and scrambled to their beds. + +I mention the circumstances in which my fellow-passengers and I were +landed at Queenstown, that those who are interested in promoting +the welfare of the port, and in making the route through Ireland +less thoroughly objectionable, may take steps to obviate the great +inconvenience to which travellers at present are certainly exposed. + +Next morning I reached Mallow. I was but a few hours in the +"distressful country," but I found that things had gone from bad to +worse while we were in the States. I heard from my fellow-travellers +in the train that "Boycotting" had attained such a pitch in the South, +that all the relations and conditions of social life were exposed +to peril, if not destruction. And still, with the usual cheerfulness +of Irish landlords, accustomed, as it were, to these excesses of the +popular will, my informants talked of hunting, fishing, and shooting; +and I heard full accounts of the state of the rivers, and of the take +of fish which had made some of them happy. The County Cork, indeed, +had nearly a parallel in the "wild West." But what a contrast between +the state of public feeling, in respect to the outrages which were +perpetrated in each, in the country we had left, and that to which +I had returned! In the United States there was no attempt to justify +the men who were guilty of such deeds. In Ireland it was impossible to +obtain evidence or to convict the offenders. I am not going to close +this narrative of our little excursion with a political disquisition, +indeed I have not the materials for forming any opinion respecting the +breadth and depth of what may be called the Irish national movement in +the United States; but there seems to be a general vague impression +in America that as the British Government was not very wise and +equitable in its dealings with the people of the thirteen colonies +in the reign of King George, it is, somehow or other, at the present +moment, treating with harshness and injustice the whole of the Irish +race in Ireland. It is impossible not to recognise the fact that the +head, perhaps the heart, and certainly the purse of this development of +Irish discontent are in the United States. The arms, the body, and the +legs are in Ireland. During the whole time of our visit, although we +visited towns where eminent orators were lecturing upon Irish subjects, +and where representatives of the League were in session, there was not +a trace brought home to us of the strong sympathy which undoubtedly +exists in many American cities with the movement in Ireland. There +were accounts of the meetings in the newspapers, and now and then a few +leading articles on the subject; but we might have concluded, from what +we saw and heard generally, that the Irish question was of far less +importance to the American people than the religious views of Colonel +Ingersoll, or the discussions between the railway companies respecting +their fares. The recital of wrongs, most of which have been long ago +redressed, still reaches the ear and touches the heart of the American +public, and if the Irish population had not in many ways provoked or +excited the antagonism of the native Americans in the towns, and of +the Teutonic element which exercises such a powerful influence in +the country, there would be far greater sympathy for the supposed +oppression of the Sister Island by England. The fact that emigrants +come from Europe is accepted as a proof that the countries which they +leave are ill-governed; and Americans, in dealing with the emigration +question, are apt to forget the existence and nature of the forces +which induced their own ancestors to seek homes in the New World. + +The _New York Times_ declared in an article last June, that there is no +essential difference between the two divisions of the Irish in America +and of the Irish in Ireland. The voyage across the Atlantic works no +transformation in Pat, and he is still as much an Irishman after his +plunge into an alien civilisation and taking out his papers as when +he stood on the old sod in Meath or Tipperary. "He cares no more for +the American eagle than for an owl; but a sprig of shamrock stirs him +to ecstasy. The name of Washington has no meaning for his ear; but +that of St. Patrick is a living and potent reality." That statement, +however, must be taken with qualification. There are to-day 90,000 +acres of land in Minnesota as thoroughly Irish as if they were planted +in the centre of Connaught. There are Pats and Pats. Many of the most +wealthy and prosperous merchants, bankers, and landowners whom we met +in the West were not merely of Irish extraction, but born Irishmen, +and the extraordinary spectacle of Irish millionaires who knew how to +keep their money, and to add to it, too, may be seen in San Francisco +and elsewhere in the West. Many, less fortunate, have high positions +either in the army, or as politicians, or in the estimation of all +that is great and good in America--such as Mr. O'Conor--men who have +held aloof from politics, and who could not be tempted, even by the +Presidentship, to enter the arena of party strife. One convicted rebel +of 1840 now occupies a leading place at the American bar. I heard him +denounce the Land Bill in terms he might have used in denouncing the +atrocities of the Saxon in his hot days when O'Connell was king. The +influence which has been acquired in many parts of the Union by the +Irish immigration and by the descendants of immigrants has naturally +excited at various times the opposition and indignation of the American +born, and it has always been more or less opposed by the Teutons of +different nationalities who occupy such a powerful position in all +the great States of the West. But "the Native Party" is now either +dead or sleeping. A very distinguished officer and politician said +to me that he had at one time been a most eager and ardent adherent +of the policy of the Native American Party, but that when he saw how +earnestly and devotedly the Irish had come forward in defence of the +Union, how brilliantly they had fought, and how recklessly they had +sacrificed their lives, in 1861, he felt constrained to abandon his +principles, and to admit their free right to all the privileges of +American citizenship. I could not, however, but recollect that General +Richard Taylor, in his most amusing, able, and graphic work on that +same war, from the Confederate side of the question, bore the strongest +testimony to the services of the Irish in the army which fought under +the banner of the Slave States. In New York and in San Francisco +the Irish element has exercised almost supreme control in municipal +matters, and it may be said, without offence I hope, that, whether +it be owing to the opposition they have encountered or to a radical +deficiency which may be Irish rather than Celtic, their management has +not conduced to the comfort of the cities or to the pecuniary purity +of the Executive. In San Francisco there is a strong anti-Irish press +and much anti-Irish feeling. The 'Argonaut' repudiates the thraldom of +the Irish associations and factions in the Far West as strenuously as +the 'Times' and 'Tribune' do in the East. But notwithstanding all that +may be written and done, it is impossible to resist the influence of +numbers under a system of suffrage so large as that which exists in +the greater number of the American States. It was curious to read in +a Californian paper an appeal to England to suppress Irish agitation. +"We confidently believe," says the _Argonaut_, "that the wisdom of +its public men, the healthful condition of its public opinion, and +the strength of its military power will be sufficient to crush out the +Land League movement, which is but incipient rebellion. That England +will deal justly, firmly, and successfully with this effort of united +ecclesiasticism and Communism is the earnest wish of every intelligent +and independent mind that believes in free government, the guarantees +of property, the rights, and the personal liberty of man." However, +there are American parties, if not statesmen, whose wishes are by no +means directed to such a consummation, and we must take note of the +fact. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +SOME GENERAL REFLECTIONS. + + Education--Free Schools--Influence of Money in + Politics--Corruption in Public Life--Crime on the Western + Borders--The Great Rebellion--Anniversaries--Great courtesy to + strangers--Manners and Customs. + + "Westward the course of Empire takes its way; + The four first acts already past, + A fifth shall close the drama with the day, + Time's noblest offspring is the last." + + +The "tar-water Bishop of Cloyne" would have been exceedingly astonished +could he have seen the first line of his prophecy or averment made to +do duty as a motto to Mr. Bancroft's History of the United States; but +surely if the prophecy be not realised, it will be the fault of the +agencies engaged in working it out--never in the history of mankind, +as we know it, have such advantages been enjoyed by any nation as have +been, and are, the appanage of the Americans of European origin in +the New World. They have leaped into the possession of their heritage +full armed, like Minerva from the brain of Jove. For them have all +the champions of human rights died or conquered, and the protagonists +of human struggles for liberty and light fought. For them Science has +trimmed her lamp--for them martyrs have died--for them Europe and Asia +have been in toil and travail for countless generations, and they have +been guided across the sea to a grand continent where it would seem as +if Nature had been engaged for myriads of ages to provide for their +happiness and grandeur--all climes and all products are theirs--the +bounteous plain, the ore-filled mountain, the treasures of the deep, +the heaven-made ways by lake and river, and it would be a despair for +all mankind if they misuse their glorious inheritance, and if all the +nations of the world see that the pillar of fire in the west was but +an _ignis fatuus_ dancing before their aching eyes in a Serbonian bog +of creeds and 'isms, of factions and faiths, all struggling towards +the gate of the Temple of Mammon. "Philosophers," in all the doubts and +fears which the condition of the Republic inspires at times, cling with +confidence to the palladium which is, they think, to be found in the +system of education based on the free schools of the States. If there +were not a distinction between knowledge and morality, they would be +justified; but the Evil One tempted us to eat of the fruit of the tree +which brought sin into the world, and if Americans are to be trusted +as authorities, the result of the largest and most liberal system of +education ever devised is not as happy in practice as it ought to be +according to theory. + +As the central Government extended its sway over the Territories there +was a uniform system, when assigning land for public objects to railway +companies, of retaining for the School Fund a portion of the land +in each Territory, as it was settled and admitted as such, under the +control of the central Government. In the States Constitutions creating +Sovereign States, there are provisions inserted, varying very little in +language and not at all in spirit, which render it compulsory on the +Legislature of each State to maintain public schools free to all the +children of the people residing within its borders. Another principle, +of universal application, provided that all schools under public +control should be free from sectarian or denominational teaching, in +the schools or in the books used for educational purposes. With such +safeguards for the extension of education, it is depressing to find +that, in certain districts at all events, crime and immorality prevail +in the United States as extensively as in the benighted kingdoms of the +Continent of Europe. But the most serious consideration in connection +with the system of common schools in America, is the fact that serious +doubts are intruding themselves respecting the success of it. In a +recent official report it was stated that whereas the children who +ought to go to school numbered about fourteen and a half millions, the +average attendance was not more than five millions. But, assuming that +all the children went to school, there are people who declare that the +education given under the National system is by no means satisfactory. +Mr. R. G. White affirms that the system is a failure; and high +authorities assert that "any comparison between the results obtained +in the public schools of New York, Cincinnati, and Boston, with those +of such public grammar schools of England, as Bedford, Manchester, and +the City of London, is simply ridiculous." The teachers are continually +shifting, and when the teachers, as they do in this land of liberty, +go away, the schools are deserted, the constant services of a staff +cannot be retained unless there is very considerable increase in the +rate of payment now made to the male and female teachers. None of these +in any State have, I think, more than about 9_l._ per month. Mr. White +says that "the mass of the pupils of the public schools are unable to +read intelligently, to spell correctly, to write legibly, to describe +the geography of their own country, or do anything that reasonably well +educated children do with ease; and they cannot write a simple letter, +they cannot do readily a simple sum in practical arithmetic, they +cannot tell the meaning of any but the commonest of words they read and +spell so ill. They can give rules glibly, they can recite from memory, +they have some dry knowledge of the various ologies and osophies, +they can, some of them, read a little French or German with very bad +accent; but, as to all real education, they are as helpless and as +barren as if they had never crossed the threshold of a schoolhouse." +It is from American writers that these accusations against the common +school system are to be gleaned. Some statisticians say that crime and +pauperism are increasing far more rapidly than population. The charge +on the State for punishing criminals and keeping paupers last year was +$20,000,000, or £4,000,000; but it is too much to attribute crime and +pauperism to the defects of the schools. It might with more reason be +argued that the teaching of the people in the schools tends to develop +the looseness and eccentricity of thought, where there is no religious +teaching, which are exemplified in the uprising of extraordinary sects +and strange philosophies; for America is the land of spiritualists, +mesmerism, soothsaying, and mystical congregations. Mr. Hepworth Dixon +may not be a perfectly unimpeachable authority on the subject of the +number of spiritualists in America; but there can be no question they +are to be counted by millions. It is averred that believers in spirits +generally believe in "special affinities which imply a spiritual +relation of the sexes higher and holier than that of marriage." It is +not wonderful then that there should be also a very large number of +divorces, especially in the New England States. Mr. Nutting says that +"in the history of nations there has never but thrice occurred such +a breaking up of the family tie as is now taking place, especially in +Rhode Island and Connecticut, among the people of New England blood." +Mormonism, although of American origin and early growth, has been +mainly successful by the constant importation of ignorant peasants from +Europe. + +There is a want of reverence on the part of children towards their +parents which is very striking. Americans who have admitted and +deplored this have sought to account for it by the school system, +wherein the State usurps the place of the parent, and teaches the young +idea to mock at any authority but that of the schoolmaster. It would be +lamentable to have to admit that free education is associated with the +weakening of parental influence. Theoretically, there is nothing in the +American system to prevent the teaching of religious and moral duties +by parents at home; but it would seem as if very little of that kind +of instruction was given by the busy fathers and anxious mothers of the +Republic, and that when the day's work is done at school, and some time +given to the preparation of the studies for the day to follow, there is +no further teaching. + +I do not think the rule "By their fruits shall ye know them" can be +applied to the public schools, in connection with the prevalence of +crime, immorality, unbelief, or eccentric religion. But it is certain +the system has not by any means secured that high level of general +education, or what education is supposed to bring with it, which its +friends claim for it in the States. There is reason to believe that +the standard of morality has not been uniformly high in the political +world, and that in the public intelligence the judiciary does not +aspire to an absolute immunity from suspicion. Even in the old settled +States, legislators from time to time may be found, who, seated among +the good and wise, excite admiration akin to that which is aroused by +the spectacle of a fly in amber. It has been observed by travellers +that whatever affection may exist in families, it does not attain that +keen sensibility and lasting power which is found in French domestic +life. + +When American newspapers of the greatest influence and circulation +write invectives against the corruption which prevails in places +high and low, when writers of great intelligence and known character +contribute similar articles to periodicals which possess the highest +position in the literary world of America, a stranger may be permitted +perhaps to say a few words respecting the impression produced upon +his mind by what he heard and read on the subject when he was in +the country, without it being alleged that he attempts to assail +the principles of free government, or to make invidious charges or +wholesale accusations against a nation. I know too well the force with +which Americans could retort if they were so minded, and how they could +point to the reports of election judges which set forth the prevalence +of extensive bribery, led to the suspension of writs, and will perhaps +end in the disfranchisement of some ancient and populous boroughs and +constituencies in England, and to the speeches of Sir Henry James in +Parliament, to cast any stone out of my glass house on that score; +but I do not think it can be established that persons in a position +at all analogous to that of the members of a State Legislature have +been purchased wholesale in England, Ireland or Scotland, or that even +a complete Borough Corporation had been bought up. Now, nothing was +more common in the Far West than to hear it stated openly that Senator +So-and-so had bought his place, and that Mr. So-and-so had purchased +a State Legislative body in order to "get through" some railway or +other scheme. That was accepted in fact as a matter of course, and +not contradicted or questioned by any one. We heard from time to time +of the sums which So-and-so would expend to buy his senatorship, and +of the money actually paid to secure the passage of a line from the +legislature of O---- and the like, whilst stories relating to the +purchase of judges were common in the conversation of the hotels and +cars. + +I do not aver that these stories were true. I only know that they +passed current and were not challenged by those who were around us. +"Thoughtful persons," who exist in the United States as well as in +the vicinity of Pall Mall clubs, lament, deplore and hate the evils +of growing corruption with all the fervour of honest and powerless +natures. The mechanism is scarcely concealed. It stands before the +world with less attempt at disguise than the gallows in the gaol. Mr. +Parton, in the 'North American Review' of this July, writing on the +power of public plunder, says: "At present, in the ninety-fifth year +of the Constitution, we are face to face with a state of politics of +extreme simplicity, of which money is the motive, the means and the +end. What was the last Presidential election but a contest of purses? +The longest purse carried the day, and it carried the day because it +was the longest. Some innocent readers perhaps have wondered why the +famous orators who swayed vast multitudes day after day and night after +night, have not been recognised in the distribution of office. They +were paid in cash from ten dollars a night to a thousand dollars a +week." And then he goes on to describe the business in detail, and to +show what this power is. He says: "There is a boss in the city of New +York who will take a contract for putting a gentleman into Congress. +Pay him so much and you may go to sleep, wake up and find yourself +member elect. A boss is a man who can get to the polls on election +days masses of voters who care little or nothing for the issues of the +campaign and know of them still less. They operate upon the strangers +in the land who are unable to use its language and are unacquainted +with its politics." Mr. Parton describes with humour one of these +"bosses," an improvement on the pugilists and cormorant thieves of a +remote period. "The Emerald Isle gave him birth; the streets of New +York, education. To see the brawny, good-tempered Irishman walking +abroad in his district when politics are active is to get an idea +of how the chief of a clan strode his native heath when a marauding +expedition was on foot. He lives in a handsome house, and has more +property than any man has ever been able to get by legitimate service +to the United States. He treats his dependants and retainers nobly, but +as the agent and organiser of spoliation he is a prey to every minor +scoundrel, for at certain seasons he dare not say no to any living +creature. And yet it requires tact, self-possession and resource to +move about among needy people with a pocket full of money, an embodied +"yes," and have some of it left after the election. The strikers, as +they are called, go for solid cash now instead of target companies and +clambakes for which the candidates paid the bills." "Money, money," +exclaims Mr. Parton, "everywhere in politics, in prodigal abundance, +money, except where it could secure and reward good service for the +public, hecatombs for the wolves, precarious bones for the watchdogs." +The details in the article are precise, and if they are to be trusted +it may be doubted whether the claims of the United States to possess +a cheap government can be maintained, for it is not cheap to pay +responsible executive officers a precarious pittance per annum if +now and then it costs a million dollars to change them. Mr. Secretary +Blaine has thrice declared that the election in October 1880 in the +State of Maine, a model New England State, was carried by money. His +opponents declared that he and his party were as bad, and that they +too flooded the towns with money. What renders the situation more +dangerous is the fact that the men who provide the money for running +these enormously expensive political combinations are either seekers +after, or holders of, office, and the inference is that they seek to +control Government, or, as Mr. Parton puts it, that "the Government +is coming to be rather an appendage to a circle of wealthy operators +than a restraint upon them." That is indeed a serious proposition, and +the result of observation goes to support the idea that it is valid. +The small man is in office, but the big man, his master, is outside. +The mischief is brought prominently forward in connection with the +sale of public lands in the North-West, which have been claimed as the +heritage of the people, and indeed of all the nations of the world. The +government land attracted the hardy labour of all countries, covering +the western west with thriving towns and populous counties. But now +the prairies are skinned by rich men, by "land-grabbers," people who +buy up tracts of twenty thousand or thirty thousand acres wherever +they can lay their hands upon them, evading the law and filling the +western world with roving labourers who work on these prodigious farms +in summer and starve in winter. This is, we are told, the result of +"government by lobby." + +Occasionally there is an exceeding great and bitter cry over all this +from the depths of the body politic. Some great paper in a moment of +deep mental agony publishes an article like that, to which I have +called attention, by Mr. Parton; occasionally some preacher, nobly +daring, thinks it necessary to direct attention, from his pulpit, to +the progress of corruption. Dr. Talmage delivered a very remarkable +discourse whilst I was in America on the text from Job. xv. 34: "Fire +shall consume the tabernacles of bribery." Although I do not profess +exactly to understand to what particular sect he belongs, he is one of +the leaders of religious thought, dividing with Beecher and others the +popular favour in the Empire City. The State buildings at Albany ought +to be heavily insured if the reverend gentleman's vaticinations are +right. It was an American discourse. I cannot give the whole oration. +The people of the Brooklyn Tabernacle were presented with a muster-roll +of the people who had distinguished themselves amongst the great ones +of the world. Cobden, Brougham, O'Connell and Rowland Hill were placed +in juxtaposition as leaders on our side of the water. Of course it was +impossible to resist the allusion to Francis Bacon and to Macclesfield; +but it was scarcely correct to say that the Lord Chancellor +Whiteberry--I presume a misprint for Westbury--"perished," nor do I +quite understand what the preacher meant by the awful tragedy of the +_Credit Mobilier_. Washington, Ben Butler, and John McClean were linked +together for the benefit of Americans. They were, Dr. Talmage declared, +great politicians, but "out of politics there has come one monstrous +sin, potent and pestiferous, its two hands rotten with leprosy, +its right hand deep in its breeches pocket. This is bribery." Dr. +Talmage called upon the American people to judge the crime. "Under the +temptation of this sin," he exclaimed, "Benedict Arnold sold the fort +in the Highlands for thirty-one thousand three hundred and seventy-five +dollars; Gorgy betrayed Hungary, Ahitophel forsook David, Judas killed +Christ. I think," he says, "when I see the strong men who have gone +down, of the Red Dragon in Revelation, having seven heads and ten +horns, and seven crowns upon its head, drawing the third part of the +stars of heaven after it." And therefore he proceeds to preach against +bribery. He thought it was the right time, "because the Legislature +in New York is busy in investigating charges of bribery. The whole +country woke up in holy horror at the charge that two thousand dollars +had been offered to influence a vote in the Legislature, as if this +was something new; as though in one State nine hundred and seventy-five +thousand dollars had not been paid a legislator of the State Government +by a railway company to get its charter and secure a dedication of +public lands; as though three-quarters of the legislators of the United +States had not, through bribery, gone into putrefaction whose stench +reached heaven. After a few weeks' hunting the squirrel has stolen the +hickory nut. Gentlemen in New York hunt out wrong by day and play poker +and old sledge at night at Delavan House. It was like the country which +had spent six millions of dollars in lawsuits about William Tweed going +suddenly into hysterics when it found out that he had stolen a box of +steel pens. California is submerged in the grip of a great monopoly; in +Kansas United States senators had been involved in charges of bribery; +in Connecticut an election to Congress was bought as men might buy +a box of strawberries. Last year they were convicted of attempting +bribery in Pennsylvania, but the Court of Pardons liberated them with +the exception of two judges, who were told that they would be cut off +from political preferment for their obstinacy. A Pennsylvania United +States senator used to put a price on legislators just as a Kentuckian +puts a price on his horse." But it was not legislators alone that Dr. +Talmage attacked. He declared that the railways, the common carriers +of the country, were tainted by a favouritism which was, in fact, +the result of bribery. One company made rebates in its fares to some +favoured corporation, as in the case of a petroleum company, which +was enabled to control the price of that light all over the world in +consequence of a virtual monopoly that was given to it by arrangement +with the railway. In the same way merchandise in grain, provisions, +and cattle are placed in the hands of a few firms. "How much," asks +Dr. Talmage, "did it cost the Elevated Railroad to keep the fare from +dropping to five cents from ten cents? I have been told," said he, +"three hundred thousand dollars," which is 60,000_l._ "Very seldom +does a bill pass through any of our Legislatures if there be no money +in it. Sometimes the bribery is in bank bills, sometimes in railroad +passes, sometimes in political preferment, sometimes by the monopolies +given to the legislators, what are called points, a corner, a flier, a +cover, washing the street, salting down, ten up! If you want to know +what these are, ask the bribed members at Albany and Harrisburg." +Then he goes on, with some truth, to declare that the bribery begins +far away behind all this; that it is really with the money subscribed +for election expenses that the evil begins its course. "From the big +reservoirs of subscribed election expenses the little rills roll down +in ten thousand directions, and by the time the great gubernatorial, +congressional, and presidential elections are over, the land is drunk +with bribery." Perhaps it is quite as well that it is from an American +orator and from an American writer such statements and such indictments +proceed, rather than from a stranger like myself; but it is very clear +that the evil which De Tocqueville indicated long ago has spread rather +than diminished, and there is reason to think that it will do so until +the public conscience of a great people is aroused to a sense of the +enormity of the mischief. But it lies far down towards the base of +the national institutions, and any attempt to extirpate it will fail +until the doctrines of the "Spoils to the Victors" be rejected from the +political catechism, and the interests of party made the means and not +the end of political life. + +The letters which appeared in the _Morning Post_, written under +the influence of the surprise and anger I felt at the extent and +impunity of crimes of violence and the state of feeling, or want of +it, respecting them in the West, were badly received in America, and +were severely handled by a few papers, as I was informed; I expected +that the mention of the subject would not prove agreeable, though +I guarded myself most sedulously from a single offensive word--nay, +went out of my way to palliate the offences against life and living, +and to excuse the people who allowed them, whilst I most carefully +drew the line--a broad one--between these border ruffians and the +law-abiding, virtuous people of the settled States. I was not, however, +prepared for misrepresentation. One would have thought that I accused +the kind hosts who had received us--our generous entertainers in +so many cities--the courteous, polished gentlemen who accompanied +us--of murder and robbery, and ascribed to them the brutal murders +committed by Canty or the Kid. As I quoted chapter and verse, and as +the papers which vilified me could not deny the statements, they wrote +that I had been imposed upon by the vivid fancy--in other phrase, +the deliberate lying--of their brother editors in the West. One organ +had the effrontery to declare that the Duke of Sutherland expressed +his delight at the kind and courteous treatment of the ruffians I +denounced; adding, "somebody lied--it was not the Duke." No. It was not +indeed! A friend sent me one of these, and below an article in which it +was said that I might take my place "beside Basil Hall, Mrs. Trollope, +and Dickens for libelling the people of the United States," and that +my stories were all inventions, there was a pregnant commentary as +follows:--"Sunday, July 17th: Daring Train Robbery; Bandits Boarding +Chicago, Rock Island, and Pacific Cars; The Conductor and a Passenger +Shot Dead, and the Safe in the Express Car Robbed; the Passengers Saved +by a Brakeman." + +I hope it will not be imagined that I have any desire to cast obloquy +on the grand efforts, supremely successful as they have been, to +turn the prairie and the desert to the uses of civilised man and +of the world, and to open up the Western Continent to humanity and +civilisation. I am too sensible of the courtesy, ready service, and +hospitality everywhere accorded to the party of English travellers +of which I was one, to write one word which I thought calculated to +give pain or offence to any of our many friends or to any right-minded +American. _Maculæ solis!_ 'Tis a pity they are there! In a few years, +perhaps, the memory that such things were will have passed away like +the recollection of some evil dream. But public sentiment must make +itself felt, and above all there must be some abatement of the maudlin +sympathy, which is virtually on the side of crime, if it be active in +averting punishment. + +Crime in America, especially in the Eastern States, is very much +the same as it is in other countries, but in the far West there is +more recklessness in dealing with human life, which, in spite of the +Howard Society and of humanitarians, I believe to be connected with +the indulgence extended under State laws by American judges and juries +to criminals who appear to be deserving of nothing but the strict +and unmitigated application of the rope. "Property" is safe, for the +citizens hunt down with extraordinary energy marauders whose object is +simply plunder. Ordinary robbers and gangs of burglars are speedily +and summarily suppressed. It is otherwise with those who assail life +and limb. The desperadoes who infest the "saloons," as they are called, +with which every western settlement is sure to be provided as soon as +the shingle roofs are placed on the earliest upheaval of deal planks +which can be called a dwelling, have far greater immunity and freedom +than burglars or robbers. Wherever the train stopped for water on +our journey in New Mexico, Western Colorado, or Eastern California, a +rectangular wooden box, with a verandah, open doors, windows screened +by a muslin curtain, perhaps a flagstaff with the Stars and Stripes +flying, a large signboard, and some high-sounding name--the "Grand +Alliance," "Union League," "El Dorado," "Harmonium," "Arcadia," or +the like--was visible, with the usual group of booted and bearded +miners, and their horses hitched up at the door-posts in front; inside +you would be certain to find men of the same class at a bar, behind +which, known for miles around, the affable Charlie, Bill, or Bob was +dispensing drinks and mixing cocktails, slings, and the other drinks, +in which the badness of the spirit is artfully disguised by a stimulant +of a more active character and more pronounced flavour, known as +"bitters," and kept in subjugation by the liberal use of ice. For even +in these burning regions ice is stored up as the one thing needful. The +rudest miner is accustomed to it; iced drinks are consumed by classes +in America far below the social level of those who never taste them in +this country. + +As the train was halting at Colorado Springs the stewards engaged +in an animated discussion respecting a certain erection of poles and +rafters just visible in an adjacent field. "I tell you dat's it." "I +say tidn't." They were discussing the probability of the scaffolding +being the gallows whereon "Canty, the Buena Vista murderer," was to be +hanged the day after. On April 29th, last year, Mr. Canty was standing +on the platform in front of Lake-house with "Johnny the Ham," "Curly +Frank," and "Off Wheeler," when Thomas Perkins appeared in an alley +opposite, endeavouring "to induce 'Dutch Bill' to go with him to the +office of Justice Casey, who had deputised him for the purpose." Canty +and his companions at once ran across and demanded his release. Before +Perkins could answer, Canty fired and missed him. The second shot +wounded Perkins in the arm; the latter drew his pistol, but before he +could use it Canty fired; the ball shattered the constable's hand. "For +God's sake," he exclaimed, "is there no policeman to help me?" He fell, +and Canty, walking close to his side, coolly sent a bullet through +his body. He was arrested, tried, and convicted. His counsel applied +to the Supreme Court for a _supersedeas_, but the court, after solemn +argument, refused the application. Then they applied to the Governor +of the State, but Mr. Pitkin, though "a weak-kneed man," would neither +grant a reprieve nor a commutation to imprisonment for life. There +was, he said, no ground "to set aside a verdict of a competent jury +and the district judge reviewed and approved of by the Supreme Court." +In the very last hour a woman came forward, and the Denver paper gave +_verbatim et literatim_ the text of the document in which ... "with dew +regard," she offered Sheriff Spangler $50,000 (10,000_l._) to save the +life of W. H. Canty, her cousin, whose real name was, she said, N. H. +Salisbury. "I entreat you to have him spared till you have an interview +with me." She added that "Jennings and his brother in Leadville would +pay a still larger sum. You may have ample means for life," &c. A +gentleman of the press, who came into our train at South Arkansas, +was present at the execution. Just before the drop fell, Canty, who +had expressed complete confidence in his ultimate liberation till the +day before his execution, spoke for fifteen minutes, protesting his +innocence. Then he exclaimed, "Good-bye, nothing can save me. I have +faith in the Saviour and a hereafter." The trap was sprung, but to the +horror of every one, the rope broke at the beam. The murderer's neck, +however, was dislocated, and "a happy relief was experienced" when +it was found he had died a painless death. As he was the nephew of an +eminent statesman it was expected his friends would take action as to +the disposal of his remains, which were put "in a neat casket at the +sheriff's expense." In the journal there was a woodcut of the murderer. +"Before his likeness could be taken holes were bored in the door and +Canty was lashed to it, and then, when the door was set upright, the +photographer watched a favourable opportunity when the head and eyes +were quiet and secured the impression" from which the engraving was +made. He was not so fortunate as Frank Gilbert, who was sentenced to +be hanged the following day for a brutal murder, but respited, "in +order that the proceedings may be reviewed by the highest judicial +tribunal," by Governor Pitkin at the last moment, "till July 29," the +day on which Rosencrantz is now sentenced to be hanged. The sheriff, +Judge Ward, the clerk of the court, and the prosecuting attorney +joined with others in petitions to the governor on the ground that +the Supreme Court judges had refused a _supersedeas_ in consequence of +the defects and informalities of the record of the proceedings in the +court below. Rosencrantz was respited, and the public, who had been +expecting a double execution on the 18th of June, were disappointed, +although they were allowed to slake their curiosity by the sight of the +condemned men and by testing the ropes in the prison enclosure where +the scaffold was ready. In the paper which gave the text of Governor +Pitkin's reprieve there was a heading "Done Brown. Al. Huggins, +marshal of Recene, turns out a bad man. He shoots and fatally wounds +officer Brown of Kokomo." Phil. Foote, constable of Kokomo, formerly +marshal of Robinson, and Al. Huggins, marshal of Recene, it seems had +spent the night in visiting the saloons of Kokomo, and in the early +morning began to fire their pistols and guns off in the street, and +continued to do so until Andy Sutton, marshal of Kokomo, attempted to +arrest them, but failed, "as he was quickly covered by two rifles." +Mr. Brown, a police officer, asked Huggins to put up his pistol, and, +to encourage him, proceeded to pocket his own revolver, when Huggins +took deliberate aim with a 38-calibre Colt and shot Brown in the left +breast, just above the heart. Huggins and Foote started for Recene. +The marshal of Kokomo followed quickly in pursuit, with a large body +of men. Huggins refused to surrender, whereupon the marshal shot him +in the face. As there was a movement to lynch him, Al. Huggins was +sent under strong guard to Leadville, but Foote escaped. "Brown was +not dead by last accounts, but was not expected to live long." Then +came a long account of another "Denver tragedy. Charles Stickney +murders Mr. T. Campan and Mrs. H. O. Devereux in a boarding-house." +Stickney was nephew of ex-Governor Clifford, of Rhode Island, served as +lieutenant, 20th Regiment, in the war of 1861-4, graduated at Harvard, +became principal of a school, married a lady whom he sent to London +to study music, and tried mining whilst his wife was giving music +lessons in Denver. There she met Mr. Campan, one of the best families +in Detroit; Stickney shot him and killed a woman who was in the room +at the same time. "Public opinion is in favour of Stickney, and he will +probably be reprimanded." The evening of the day we reached Leadville, +"Alderman Johnnie M'Combe, a leading candidate for lieutenant-governor +and mayor, and last spring before the people for city treasurer," +shot and wounded, probably fatally, a well-known actor named James +M'Donald, because the latter had taken some children in M'Combe's +buggy for a drive. It is not easy to determine how far Johnnie's chance +of office may be affected by this ebullition, but the newspapers did +not write of it with harshness; one gave it a comic character by the +heading, "Ex-Alderman M'Combe attempts to perforate Jemmy M'Donald's +cranium." In my morning paper of the same date I find that "James Hogan +was foully murdered by James M'Cue in the open streets of Erie this +afternoon in a quarrel about a handkerchief;" that Dr. Flemings, a +prominent citizen of Portland, Ashley County, Arkansas, had appeased +a quarrel between a pedlar named Gillmore and a coloured man very +effectually, for, "incensed by a remark made by the pedlar, the doctor +drew a pistol and shot him dead;" that "a prominent business man of +M'Leansboro' had made a sensation on the streets to-day by hunting +up, pistol in hand, one of the gay Lotharios of Hamilton County;" +that "Daniel Keller, deputy county clerk, was stabbed and killed in +the street of Virginia City by Dennis Hennessy, a kerbstone broker;" +that "a searching party under Captain Leper had overhauled Hamilton, +Myers and Brown, the outlaws who shot Sheriff Davis and Collector +Hatter at Poplar Bluff, Mo.; killed Hamilton, mortally wounded Myers, +and made Brown a prisoner;" that "James Hurd shot Jeff Anderson at +Alamosa, Col., and that it was feared the latter would not survive." +An account of the death of "Curly Bill," a notorious desperado, leader +of cowboys and murderer of Marshal White, who was killed at Caleyville, +Arizona, by his comrade, Jem Wallace, followed. They had a quarrel (of +course, in a saloon). After a few drinks "Curly Bill" said, "I guess +I will kill you on general principles." Wallace stepped out of the +saloon and immediately opened fire, inflicting a mortal wound on his +foe. After a brief hearing Wallace was discharged, and left for parts +unknown. Then it was related how "Thomas Clarey ('Tommy the Kid'), a +Durango outlaw, was killed by a comrade named Eskridge at Annego while +drunk." A fratricide and three trials for murder were duly recorded. +Another paper gave an account of South-West Colorado from the lips +of a recent visitor to San Juan County. "Are you going back to San +Juan? No, I think not; but it is a glorious country. The men there +are a little rough, and kill each other on slight provocation; but a +peaceable man who does not swagger and blow is not molested. There is +no law, and courts and constables are unknown." He narrates how Aleck +----, acting as a barkeeper, "a noble-hearted, jovial fellow, full of +fun, who looked you square in the eye, owns mines, said to be worth +a million," settled a difficulty; I am inclined to think Mr. Charles +Klunk rather drew on the interviewing reporter of the _Globe Democrat_. +He was, he said, going to see a stockman who lived about fifty miles +from the house where he was visiting. A farmer said to him "Come and +take a drink with me, and I'll show you the barkeeper who killed the +man you are going to see an hour ago." The stockman had come into +the saloon whilst Aleck was in the back room, and began to abuse him. +Aleck heard him, opened on the man with a revolver, and "shot him full +of holes. Next day I asked him what he was going to do about it, and +he said he had been tried and acquitted, which meant that some of the +leading men had told him that he had done right. There was no trial +about it. When a man kills another out there in a fight they don't +inquire very strictly into the circumstances, but make up their minds +that they can't bring the dead man to life by hanging the killer, so +nothing is done about it. But when a man murders another to rob him, +the vigilants turn out and have no mercy on him. They just fill his +skin with lead and tumble him into a hole like a wolf. After all, +though the bears are plentiful in the spring, you can kill a deer 100 +yards from the house where you like, the streams are alive with trout, +the vegetables and crops splendid." Mr. Charles Klunk's resolution not +to go back to this Happy Valley seems founded on sound constitutional +principles. What I wish to point out is the condition in which the +Central Government and State Governments have permitted many districts +of New Mexico, Colorado, and California to remain. It is plain that +the peculiar conditions under which the sway of the United States has +been extended over the regions of the Far West have rendered it very +difficult to establish the machinery for protecting life and property +and punishing crime; but I do not see that the statesmen at Washington +or the legislators at the State capitals are very much concerned at +the reign of terror which prevails on the borders, or that they seek +to impress on their people any regard for the sacredness of life. In +fact, human life is almost a drug in the market. And I write fully +sensible of the failures of our own and of all European Governments to +repress crime, to prevent violence, and to ensure security to life and +property. I am aware that Ireland and Poland are to the fore, and that +wife-beating and "running kicks" illustrate the brutality of Lancashire +and other districts--that London has its Alsatias, that every European +capital has foul recesses in which the only laws are those of crime. +All the world is busy preparing shoals of emigrants for the United +States. It is only, however, when some savage outbreak affrighting the +propriety of a great city arouses indignation and fear that there is +a clamour for measures of repression. I do not think there is in any +other part of the world, or that there ever has been in any civilised +country, such shootings as have filled the land to which I allude with +bloodshed. It may be said with truth that there never have been and +that there are not any similar conditions in the world. But the absence +of any great abiding movement for the correction and suppression of +violence and lawlessness cannot be so readily accounted for or excused. +There appears to be a sort of admiration for these border ruffians +among portions of the American Press and public. Even a staid paper +like the _Republican_, in an article headed "South-East Missouri: the +Reign of Lawlessness about Ended," on the destruction of the New Madrid +gang, writes of one who was sent to the penitentiary for thirty years +"as a living monument of a bold and brave lot of desperate men who had +started out to make money by robbing their fellow-men. This swift and +stern justice speaks well for this portion of the States, which has had +for a long time more than its full quota of these lawless characters. +Myers and Brown will be hung on the 15th July, and their execution will +be witnessed by thousands of South-East Missourians." The spectacle +of the hanging will not do much good, if it be like the execution at +Colorado Springs, which was advertised as a sort of picnic or pleasure +excursion. One advertisement ran, "After the hanging to-morrow drink +La Salle beer; it will cool your nerves." "Highway robbery here has +about run its course, and the people are determined that lawlessness +in those regions shall no longer go unwhipped of justice." Very good. +But, why not sooner and long ago? "Rhodes was hung by Judge Lynch +when captured at the killing of young Laforge in New Madrid;" but the +gang killed the sheriff and wounded the deputy-sheriff and collector +before the people arose in their majesty to squelch them. A criminal +is invested with a notoriety which, next to popular estimation, is +valued by some men, and it is noted with interest that "Gilbert" (one +pitiless murderer) is a Catholic, and that "Rosengrants" (another +homicide) "inclines towards the Episcopalians." A Leadville doctor +visits one of them to ask for his body. "No, sirree, you can't have +my body; I'll be hanged first!" And the public laugh at the lively +sally, and admire the _sangfroid_ of the wit! In fact, there is a +_tendresse_ for crime in this grim humour. A Texan who would "fill the +skin" of a stranger "with lead" for aspersing Texas would no doubt +heartily enjoy the description of the early population of the Lone +Star State, which I quote from the Texas Press. "In the early days +of the Republic, and even after annexation, many of the white men who +came here had strong sanitary reasons for a change of climate, having +been threatened with throat disease so sudden and dangerous that the +slightest delay in moving to a new and milder climate would have been +fatal, the subjects dying of dislocation of the spinal vertebræ at the +end of a few minutes--and a rope. A great many left Arkansas, Indiana, +and other States in such a hurry that they were obliged to borrow the +horses on which they rode to Texas. They mostly recovered on reaching +Austin, and many invalids began to feel better and consider themselves +out of danger as soon as they crossed the Brancos River. Some who would +not have lived twenty-four hours longer had they not left their homes +reached a green old age in Western Texas, and were never again in risk +of the bronchial affection already referred to by carefully avoiding +the causes which led to their trouble. Some at Austin recovered so +far as to be able to run for office, within a year, though defeated +by a respectable majority, owing to the atmosphere and the popularity +of the other candidate." The most extraordinary fact connected with +the indulgence which is extended to Western excesses is the severity +with which Northern and Eastern writers and publicists deal with +the recklessness of Southerners with regard to life, as if it were a +political question in some way connected with slavery. In an article on +"Colonisation," in the July number of 'The International Review,' there +is an attempt to prove that the prevalence of homicide in the South as +compared with the North has impeded the flow of immigrants, although +slavery has disappeared, and the writer, quoting Mr. Redfield's book +on 'Homicide North and South,' says the terrible "scourge of open +murder, wholly irrespective of political causes more deadly than +disease or yellow fever, because each death is the result of a heinous +crime, seems to be calmly accepted by public opinion as a part of +the unchangeable conditions of social life in the South. In Kentucky +more men are killed in six days than in eight years in Vermont. In a +village of Connecticut a death from homicide has never occurred from +its foundation, while in one graveyard in Owen County, Kentucky, the +majority are murdered men, and in another county forty-two persons +were killed and forty-three wounded in two years." But in the very same +number of the 'International' there is an account of the doings of the +"Vigilance Committee" of San Francisco (where there were no slaves and +where there is immense wealth), which might cause the author of the +paper on "Colonisation" to reflect a little on his theories. Surely in +Arizona, California, &c., where the foreign population is 50 per cent. +of the natives, immigration has not been checked by the prevalence of +homicide? It must not be supposed that there is no "law" in the towns +where these crimes have been committed; in all the cases referred to +the coroner did his office and verdicts were returned, and it will have +been seen that "wretches hang" in due course. We had intended to visit +the State prison at Cañon City on our way to Pueblo from Leadville, +where we were promised an opportunity of seeing "thirty murderers all +in a row," but the delay of the train on the road deprived us of the +means of verifying the statement, and I give it as it was made. It +would seem as if the criminal supply were super-abundant, or that death +on the gallows had no deterrent influence. The chances of escape are, +if not numerous, at least considerable. At Deming, Denver, Leadville, +Tucson, Tombstone, and other cities, the vast mass of the inhabitants +are law-abiding, peaceable, honest, and honourable men, who feel as +much horror at the violence and bloodshed around them as the most +refined lady in any saloon of Boston, Paris, or London, but they appear +to endure these things in the hope that the law will be enforced at +last; now and then they break into vigilance committees and execute +their own decrees, though the judges do not fail to lay it down that +they have been accessories to murder. The great civiliser and police +agent is the railroad. It is affirmed that as the iron way is pushed on +the outlaws and the _personnel_ of outlawry congregate at the terminal +town, but I suspect that there is a fringe of the material left on the +border as it runs. As our party were at dinner in the palace-car one +evening the train pulled up at a station. There was a group of rough +men on the platform, who stared in with all their eyes at the white +tablecloth, set with bright glass and silver, and at the cheerful faces +under the lamps. "How merry they are. I wonder if they know that this +is Dodge City?" exclaimed one of the crowd. I was told by an official +that when they were making a railway in these parts the surveyors, &c., +were much troubled by gangs of gamblers and robbers, who impeded the +work and debauched the men, so after due warning they made a razzia +on the gamblers, shot a lot of them, and the rest "vamosed." There was +not very long ago an actual war in the Grand Cañon Valley between the +Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fé Railway and the Denver and Rio Grande +Railway, in which there was an array of armed forces and fighting on +both sides, and we saw with our own eyes the remains of the breastworks +cast up in the Grand Cañon by the belligerents. The law came in at +last. "One side got at the judge first and gave him $50,000. The +other was quite ready to go beyond that, but the first was too quick, +and the suit went against the company." I was talking to a lawyer +about the length of time which is allowed by the judges to criminals +sentenced to death as a detail of the execution of the law not in +accordance with the general practice of civilised nations, when one +of the company remarked, "They must do it, sir, to please the people. +If we had Judas Iscariot in gaol to-morrow there would be thousands +of petitions to commute his sentence, and thousands of dollars ready +for an appeal to the Supreme Court. Our people don't like prompt +sentence." Nevertheless, sentence and execution are pretty swift when +the desperadoes take the law into their own hands, as we have seen. +The revolver and the "saloon" are the agents and the scene in most of +these murders, and whisky is too often the motive power. In Kansas it +is a criminal offence to sell any intoxicating spirit, or to use it +except on medical certificate. It is said that the law cannot last, but +it surely was a very strong conviction of the evils which were endured +by the community that brought a State Legislature, elected by the +people, to enact that beer, wine, and spirits should be absolutely and +entirely banished from its borders. Lately there was a prosecution by +the State attorney of a man for selling spirits. The case was clearly +proved. The judge charged the jury in the strongest manner against the +defendant. The jury without retiring at once found a verdict of "not +guilty." "Boys," exclaimed the judge, putting his hand on the foreman's +shoulder, "Boys, I'm quite with you." The Kansas case will be, I think, +watched with great interest by the rival parties in England, and it is +certainly worth investigation and attention, for, if all I hear be true +here, a Parliament elected by the people either in advance or in the +rear of their constituents have passed a law which judges condemn, and +juries evade, and public opinion derides. + +From a British, which may be an unintelligent, point of view, there +is a want of logical method in the treatment of the Great Rebellion +question by Americans. There is a general disposition to speak of the +war between the Federal Government and the people of the Confederate +States as an historical fact which has ceased to present burning +controversies and terrible issues to the Republic. But, at the same +time, these controversies are kept alive, and, for the defeated, are +stirred up incessantly by anniversaries and celebrations, natural but, +if it be the object of Americans, as many of them assure us it is, +to let the memory of the past die out like that of a horrid dream, +impolitic. The spirit which animated the Southern States is neither +dead nor sleeping. But there are no end of G. A. P. and G. A. R. +Associations flourishing their banners and waving their sheathed swords +in and out of the newspapers, and it is almost more than Southern +flesh and blood can bear at times to be reminded of the defeats they +sustained, even if they be content to admit that the doctrine of the +sovereignty of States was a delusion, and that the indivisibility of +the Republic was a fundamental principle of the Constitution before it +was conclusively established by force of arms. + +North and South, our good cousins are fond of anniversaries and +speechmakings. I wonder where they get their taste for them from? +Some few veterans dine together on anniversaries of old French war +days, and there is a Balaclava Dinner in the Old Country; but, though +we have a reasonably long list of fighting successes to commemorate, +their anniversaries are mostly left to the almanacks. The other day +the Americans had a celebration of the Battle of Cowpens, wherein the +heroic Morgan gave the diabolical Tarleton the deuce of a whipping. I +wonder if it was worth remembering? But it is better to remember such +things perhaps than Sherman's Raid or Wilderness--or Chickahominy. +There are bitternesses enough remaining--the rivalries and jealousies +of generals are still active and these memories might be left to die +out. + +The great war which so deeply moved the population of the United States +has left many traces in Soldiers' Homes, and men deprived of legs or +arms, or bearing marks of indelible wounds, are to be met with wherever +there is any considerable gathering of people all over the Union. The +clerk at the bar of the hotel, to whom we were talking a moment ago, +was a captain in a regiment of militia, and served with distinction, +having risen to the grade he occupies by conduct and courage during the +war; and if he is known among his friends by the title of "Colonel," +he deserves, probably, the brevet conferred upon him by the authority +of the general public around him. The conductor of the train on the +Pennsylvania Railroad, to whose attention we were so much indebted, was +an ex-officer of volunteers, was engaged at the first battle of Bull +Run, where he was wounded, and in several other actions. And our good +friend the Major, who enabled us to pass many an hour listening to his +admirable rendering of negro minstrelsy, bore in his body a proof of +the dangers he had passed, in the shape of a Confederate bullet, or +it might have been (for I am not quite sure now) a projectile of the +Federal persuasion. And so on. Scarcely a day passed that we did not +meet someone who had been fighting on one side or the other. + +One great change has come over Americans since I was last here, and, +whether it was the ridicule to which they were exposed or to a sense +of their greatness as a nation that it be due, it is to be commended. +Except by a professional interviewer, not one of the party was asked, +"What do you think, sir, of our country?"! + +The welcome which an Englishman who is entitled to admission into +good society receives all over the States, in the best houses, and +from the best men, is as gracious and warm as ever. It seems as if a +reaction against the suspicion, jealousy, and harshness which marred +the political relations of the Republic and Great Britain in times gone +by, moved those who behave with so much courtesy to Englishmen, and +that they seem to say, _sotto voce_, "Come and see how I forget the +wrongs done to the United States by the Ministers of George III. and +his successors! Admit that I can be as magnanimous as I am rich and +cultivated! I am of your house, but I have transplanted all the good +qualities of your race to American soil, and grafted them on the tree +of liberty which towers aloft in all the splendour of Transatlantic +luxuriance above us." + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +THE RED MAN AND HIS DESTINY. + + Captain Pratt--Carlisle Barracks--An Indian Bowman--The Indian + Question--The Pupils' Gossip--The "School News"--Indian + Visitors--The White Mother--The India Office--White and + Red--Quo Quousque?--Indian Title Deeds--The Reservations--The + Indian Agencies--Missionary Efforts--The Red Man and the + Maori. + + +On the 5th of May the party visited Carlisle Fort or Barracks, one of +the ancient military establishments of the Republic, where in the old +times, speaking in an American sense, a considerable force was usually +concentrated to keep watch and ward over the western frontiers, now +extended thousands of miles away to the Pacific. The Barrack, which +is a large quadrangle capable of containing a couple of regiments, is +appropriated by the Government to this great experiment, the systematic +education of the Indians of both sexes, whose families send them to +school for the purpose of learning English and useful arts, mechanical +and other, which may be of advantage to their people. It was, perhaps, +one of the most interesting of the many little excursions which the +Duke of Sutherland and his friends made in the States, and as it was +the only one of the schools which we had an opportunity of seeing I +shall proceed to give a little account of what we witnessed. In the +first place let me express the sense which every one of us entertained +of the real sterling qualities of Captain Pratt who is in charge of +the school, and of the devotion and solicitude for their charges of +those ladies employed in the training establishment. It may be asked +how casual visitors could judge of these things? The discipline, +order, progress, and perfect method visible in every room, and the +intelligence and good understanding between the teachers and the pupils +which could be perceived throughout the establishment, were adequate +proofs, I think, that the praise is well deserved. At the time of our +visit there were something under three hundred pupils, of whom perhaps +two hundred were boys, and these were engaged in their class-rooms, +each section of Indians being arranged according to nationality, if +such a term can be used. But, indeed, the tribes of Indians differed +from each other in personal appearance far more than do the races +which inhabit the European continent. It is true they nearly all have +straight wire-like black hair and eyes set deeply and rather obliquely +in faces which are frequently of the Mongol type. But there is great +diversity in the shape of the head, the angle of the jaw, the formation +of the mouth and nose, the colour (when not tainted or "improved" by +an admixture of European blood, whether Mexican or American or other) +being pretty uniform, a rich bronze, with something of a copper hue, +predominating in the young people. The boys were dressed in a plain +neat uniform of greyish-blue, military tunics and trousers, well shod +and comfortably equipped in all respects. The girls, amongst whom, +perhaps, taste for eccentric finery was not unobservable, wore dresses +less uniform in appearance, generally neat and always clean; but +their foot gear was rather eccentric. The rooms, spacious barrack-like +apartments, well ventilated, were appropriated to the classes according +to age and progress, the boys being separated from the girls. The walls +were hung with maps and furnished with educational coloured prints, and +boards for arithmetical exercises were in each apartment. The desks and +stools were such as would be seen in an ordinary school, and if one had +not looked at the faces of the pupils and been struck by some of the +strange characters on the walls he would have thought himself in the +middle of some ordinary school; save, perhaps, that his ear would have +missed the curious humming noise which marks the industry of idleness +or of legitimate work in similar establishments in Europe. But here +were all these young savages, poring over their books or boring with +their pens, looking up at the visitors scarcely with curiosity and +applying themselves again to their work, or answering questions put +to them with the composure which must be a portion of the Red Man's +nature. + +I cannot recollect how many tribes there were represented at the +Carlisle school; but I was struck by the race-distinctions which could +be observed when Captain Pratt, standing on a raised platform, called +out the names of each tribe. The little batches, in some instances +only one or two, stood up briskly and looked somewhat proudly about, +as much as to say, "We are Sioux (or Apaches, or Ponchas, or Creeks), +not like these other fellows." And the young ladies were, if one might +judge from their expression, quite as proud of their own people as the +boys. But the names these poor children receive are ludicrous. Not +content with calling them by English names, or American, singularly +misapplied, very often, as a name may be, their own Indian nomenclature +is translated into English, so that we heard reading and reciting +beside "Luke Phillips" and "Almarine McKillip" (a Scotch Creek) +"Maggie Stands-looking" and "Reuben Quick-bear." There was something +of sarcasm, I think, in the address of a Creek boy to the visitors. He +said: "The Indian boys had come here to learn something about the use +of the bow and hunting. Their people believed that if boys grew up to +manhood without learning they would be of no use; therefore they had +sent the boys here to get education." Then, after some moral if trite +reflections, the lad said: "You must understand that nearly everything +that was made was made both for the present and the future. This +barracks was not built for Indians, as I do not think the men who built +it ever thought that it would be an Indian school; but things were made +to do good both in the present and in the future." And then quoth he, +looking at his white friends straight in the face: "The education which +we are getting here is not like our own land, but it is something that +cannot be stolen nor bought from us." And the white man did not turn +red at the words! I do not pretend to judge of the actual progress made +in learning, but the very intelligent self-possessed teachers reported +uniformly that they were satisfied. The most useful education, perhaps, +which these Indians receive is in practical mechanics, and a visit to +the workshops attached to the barracks was amply repaid by the sight +of these industrious young fellows hammering and leathering away in +the various departments. They have actually completed waggons of a most +satisfactory construction, complete in all their parts, so much so that +orders have been received for as many as can be supplied for the use +of Agencies. They make and repair their own shoes. They have sent out +a hundred and twenty double sets of harness. They make coffee-boilers, +cups, pans, pails, and all the articles known to the tin-smith; and the +girls are taught to hem and sew and knit in the English fashion; but it +must have been not many a long year before the white man landed, when +the ancestors of these Indian maidens exercised the same mystery with +fine sinew and skin in the wonderful work of which specimens are handed +down to us to-day. On one point alone, perhaps, there was something to +regret; the health of the children was not all that could be desired. +Well clad, regularly fed, I presume on wholesome food, cleanly lodged +in well-ventilated rooms, these wild children of the plains scarcely +came up to the expectations one would form of them in the matter of +chest-measurement; and although many were remarkable for fine physical +development, Captain Pratt confessed that their sanitary condition was +not everything that could be desired, and that losses from consumption +and other causes were rather serious. But they have plenty of out-door +exercise. They have games in which they rejoice. They drill and +march to the sound of their own band, a very good brass band of eight +performers, each of a different tribe, who played "Hail Columbia!" +and the "Star-Spangled Banner," and the like, with energy and zest; +nay, with harmonious concurrence. When we went out into the large open +square, there appeared before us a wonderful being in feathers, waving +plumes, wampum and all the leathern panoply and peltry adornments of +an Indian, painted, and armed with bow and arrow, probably such an one +as Captain John Smith may have seen as he went exploring the woods +of Virginia on his way to the sacrifice from which he was saved by +Pocahontas. A target was erected at a distance of a hundred yards or +so, and had I been in the centre of it, I should have been perfectly +safe from the arrows which the Indian warrior discharged at it. But +we were told that with a good bow a strong-armed Indian will drive an +arrow right through a buffalo, and in that case I would suppose that +the buffalo was very near to him indeed. + +Of course it is but natural to find very varying degrees of +intelligence amongst the pupils, and the rate of progress was by no +means uniform, but a committee of examination which recently visited +the school declared that the manifestations of advancement in the +rudiments of English education were to them simply surprising. It was +with admiration bordering on amazement they observed the facility and +accuracy with which the children passed through the various exercises, +in reading, geography, arithmetic, and writing, of the schoolroom; +the accurate training and the amount of knowledge displayed were, they +reported, the fullest proof not only of skilful teaching, but of great +aptitude and diligence on the part of the children. Considering the +brief period during which the school had been in operation, and the +fact that the children entered it in a wholly untutored condition, +the evidence was conclusive of the capability of culture. They go on +to say: "We are fully persuaded that improvement equal to that which +we have witnessed in the case of these children of the plains, if +made in equal time by American children, would be regarded as quite +unusual. And when the difficulty of communication consequent upon the +diversities of language is taken into account we can but feel that the +results of which we have been the witnesses to-day justify our judgment +of them as amazing." + +One of the most interesting features connected with the attempts +to educate the Indians at Carlisle is the 'School News,' a little +publication which, as I understand, is conducted by Indian pupils +taught in the establishment, edited by Samuel Townsend, a Pawnee Indian +boy. It is published once a month, and costs 25 cents or 1_s._ per +year. It takes as its motto the lines: + + "A pebble cast into the sea is felt from shore to shore, + A thought from the mind set free will echo on for ever more." + +Perhaps neither the metre nor the actual statement commend themselves +to acceptance, but the matter of the little journal is full of +interest. In the first place the names of the contributors afford +full matter for meditation. Perhaps it is one of the steps which +must be taken to civilise these poor Indians that their names should +undergo a strange and, to me, unmeaning metamorphose. There seems no +reason whatever why the Indian names should not be retained, or if +there is any reason for changing them, at least there might be some +discrimination and good taste exercised in the adoption of English +Christian names. + +The first number of the 'School News,' which I have before me, contains +as an article: "What Michael Burns, an Apache boy, thinks on the Indian +Question." He says, "I cannot help myself, having much feeling for my +people, what has been said about them, and the efforts making to give +us the same privileges as the people of the United States. And it is +said how we have been treated by the bad white man, for the last ten +or fifteen years, decreasing our number. But that kind for treatment +for my nation will soon stop." The poor boy goes on to say: "There is +no doubt that we are in fault. We had the opinion that we could not +get beaten by any other nation. Now we know for ourselves that we will +have to change.... But how does the white man know which way is the +best to do. Was he born that way? No! Education gives him the light +of knowledge." Then a boy named Marcus Poko writes to his father: "I +want you to try hard and leave the Comanche way, and to find the white +man's way." In the leading article, written, I presume, by Samuel +Townsend, it is said: "Indian ways will never be good any more, it +is all passed, gone away, and the other way is coming up to take the +place. We shall all be glad when we all get into the civilised way of +living, then the Indians will not make so much trouble for the American +people. Some people say 'let the Indians get out of the way. There +is no use in trying to advance them, kill them all they are like the +wild animals deaf and dumb, they never will learn anything. We have +already paid so much money for them they have never become civilised +yet.' But all good people say, 'Oh, yes, give them an education and +plenty of opportunities, and send more teachers among them so they may +come up beside us and live as brothers and live in peace.'" There is a +little paragraph as to language. "There are a great many words in the +English," says the writer, "that the Indians have no word for, so the +white people who make the Indian books have to make new Indian words. +So the Indians have to learn the new Indian words. Now we don't know +much about it, but we believe the Indians can all learn to speak the +same as the whites." Then there is a column about the school news: +"Lizzie McRae, a Creek girl, made a very good corn bread the other +day. We had some of it. It was right good I tell you." "Robert American +Horse is a steady boy. He works in the blacksmith shop very well, and +Mr. Harris never has to tell him but once how to do something." "One +of the teachers had artificial violets on her belt. A Gros Ventre boy +saw them, but did not know what they were, so he got up from his desk +and went close to the teacher. He looked at it and then smelt it. When +he smelt it he said, 'Pooh! rags!'" "Boys, some time ago Captain Pratt +gave us advice about throwing stones at birds. Some of the boys who +understand most English did not listen. We want the birds to come and +stay with us and sing for us, too. Let us remember about this, and +not let Captain Pratt have to say it again." "Last Sunday some of the +large girls had a prayer-meeting in the yard at the back of the girls' +quarters. Nobody told them to do it, but they thought it would be a +good thing." There is a long letter from Lizzie Walton, a Pawnee girl +of thirteen years old, describing a trip to Philadelphia, and I believe +there are very few girls of thirteen years of age in any school who +could write more amusingly or better. The account of a magic lantern by +Ada Bent, a Cheyenne girl, closes the number. + +Letters from the children who are sent out to the farmers are published +in this little periodical, and give a very pleasing picture of the +lives and aptitudes of these Indians. Virginia, of Kiowar, writes from +a farm, asking one of the teachers to pardon her for not having done so +before; but "I have not much time," she says, "I am very busy set the +table and wash dishes make my bed and make pies and cakes and try to +make bread too, and the other things beside.... Sometime I make fire +and bring in wood. Mrs. Borton is very kind lady she has two children +one girl and boy. I love these little children very much." "My dear +Miss H----, I am not bad a girl. I help now a great deal. I pray for +you almost every night, also when I wake up in the morning. I like to +pray very much because I make myself good." And so on in a pleasant +little gossiping way, frequently in very difficult language. There is +an article in the 'School News' of July upon the shooting of President +Garfield: "The man who shot him," says the writer, "we suppose, thought +he would please some of the people in the United States. He thought he +was very smart. If President were to die how would every white man, +black man and the Indian feel? It was not in war when the President +was shot, for our country don't have war any more, but in peace.... +We all feel sorry because the President is suffering. We hope he +will soon recover." It is stated that about a hundred boys and girls +have gone out to work on the farms, and there are some trite remarks +about the advantages of hard work as opposed to the disadvantages of +laziness. "The farmers up country say the Indian boys can bind wheat +first-rate." "Nelly Cook, Sioux, made 36 sheets in one day last week. +Nellie Cary, Apache, made 32, and Ella Moore, Creek, made 30. Boys, do +you think those girls are lazy?" The 'School News' has a reporter, it +would appear, for the paper says that "Our reporter took a walk round +in the shops to see what the boys were doing. In all the shops every +boy was busy. In the carpenter shop there were Jock (Arapahoe), Ralph +(Sioux), Elwood (Iowa), and Joe Gun (Ponca) sawing out window and door +frames. Oscar (Cheyenne) and Michael Burns (Apache) were busy carving +balcony posts; and Lester (Arapahoe) was outside chiselling a beam. +These things are all for our new hospital.... Jesse (Arapahoe) and +Little Elk (Cheyenne) were busy in the gymnasium. The waggons which +Robert American Horse has finished painting are to be sent to Oregon +and Washington Territories." It is sometimes difficult to make out +the meaning of the little prattle which these small people commit to +the uncertain medium of the English tongue; but, on the whole, it is +a most interesting and curious study. In one respect these children +of the forest possess that which civilisation seems rather to dwarf +amongst men of the highest culture and imagination--a certain stately +eloquence and nobility of expression, in which natural images abound, +and allegory and metaphor consort together in excellent and tasteful +union. In a paper called 'Eadle Keatah Toh,' which seems to have been +the precursor of the 'School News,' there is an interesting report +from the Committee on Indian Affairs to the House of Representatives, +submitted by Mr. Pound. The motto of the paper is "God helps those +who help themselves"; but surely it might be better put that God will +help those who seek to do good to the unfortunate Indians, who in +contact with civilisation are rendered utterly helpless, and who in +their attempts to help themselves according to the manner of the race +must meet with nothing but extinction. From time to time there are +notices of deaths. One would like to know who wrote the account of the +"death of John Renville, son of Gabriel Renville, Chief of the Sisseton +Sioux." After noticing the circumstances under which he contracted his +fatal illness--fever, produced by drinking water at a spring on a hot +day on a march to the camp in Perry County, the writer says:--"'Death +loves a shining mark,' the poet sang long ago; and in the passing away +of John Renville from our school we sadly say, how truthfully the poet +sang.... Through all the days of his sickness his large sorrowful eyes +had a far-away wondering look, no pain marred the beauty of his brow, +and his voice as he addressed his sister, who tenderly watched over +him, was like the trumpet warbling of some mournful bird. Our hearts +follow the father in deep sympathy as he bears back the body of his +beautiful boy to the land of the Dakotas for burial." + +The Indian chiefs have a right, which they often exercise, of visiting +these schools as a Board; and there is an account in the Carlisle paper +of the visit of Spotted Tail, Iron Wing, White Thunder, Black Crow, +and Louis Robideau from the Rosebud Agency; Red Cloud, American Horse, +Red Dog, Red Shirt, Little Wound, and Two Strike from the Pine Ridge +Agency; Like the Bear and Medicine Bull from the Lower Brule Agency; +Son of the Star, Poor Wolf, Peter Beauchamp, and John Smith from Fort +Berthold; Two Bears, John Big Head, Grass, Thunder Hawk, and Louis +Primeau from Standing Rock; Charger and Bull Eagle from Cheyenne River; +Brother to All and James Broadhead from Crow Creek; Strike the Ree +and Jumping Thunder from Yankton; Robert Hakewashte and Eli Abraham +from Santee Agency; Mr. Tackett and his wife and daughter; a daughter +of Spotted Tail, and others. The meeting of the children with their +parents is described as being most touching; and sometimes the pupils +were not recognised, so greatly had they altered. As the chiefs seemed +unwilling to speak when called upon to do so, there was silence for a +time till a little girl, who had been about a year and a half at the +school, expressed her desire to speak in so earnest a way that General +Marshall permitted her to do so; and so, speaking in her own dialect, +her words were translated into English and into Sioux. She declared +that she liked the white man's ways and the white man's language. +Indian words, she said, were down on the ground, but the white man's +language was in his head. The chiefs, who listened attentively, seemed +to understand this curious figure of speech, and nodded their approval. +And then she enlarged upon the advantage of what she learned, and +implored the chiefs to send their children to the school, where she +says she is going to try to be God's daughter. Her words seemed to +kindle the fire within the chieftains' breasts, for Like the Bear, a +Sioux, and father of one of the boys at Hampton School, came forward +and addressed the meeting. "There is no greater power in the world," +said he, "than the Great Spirit, and we must listen to Him and do +what He wants us to do. When the men who were sent out by the Great +Father the President asked for my children I gave them up. I see you +are making brains for my children, and you are making eyes for them so +that they can see. That is what I thank the Great Spirit for, and it is +that which will make me strong." Then Robert Hakewashte, a chief from +the Santee Agency, spoke, and said that he wanted schools like that +which he saw here on his own reservation, and Spotted Tail wished for +the same thing. "Since I have learned the words of God," he says, "it +makes no difference to me what is the colour of a man's skin; if he +walks like a man it is the same. I do not believe God likes the white +colour only. God likes red and white, for He made them all." And then +the flood of eloquence was loosened, and an old chief of the Sioux, +nearly blind, verging on ninety years of age, who had come to see his +grandson, said: "I grew up a red man, and the things I see here I never +had a chance to see before. I have heard about the white man's church +and his religion, and I have heard about the holy house. I have looked +into them, and I am very much pleased. But there is only one Great +Spirit we all can worship, and the red men all over the country are +hearing about it. You are teaching the children to worship the Great +Spirit. That is a great thing, and I like it. But you have here two +sons of one father. One is sick. I want you to keep the other." And so +he carried him away. + +The condition of the Red Man who is allowed to exist under the banner +of the Republic is a subject which has attracted the attention of the +best and wisest men in the United States. The treatment of the Indians +is a question of future policy. It is one which must exercise a very +deep and abiding influence on the whole history of an ancient and +interesting people. But it is exceedingly difficult to put in a short +compass its most salient points before those who are unacquainted with +the nature of the problems to be solved. Comparisons are odious, above +all places, in America, when they are not to the advantage of the Great +Republic, and I shall not draw any between the state of the Indian +tribes in Canada and in the States. But it may be fairly admitted that +the Indian Question in Canada is divested of many of the difficulties +which surround it south of the lakes. The people of Canada have far +more land than they know what to do with. They are a sparse population. +They are not impelled to fierce adventures by mining "booms," and they +are altogether less progressive than their American brethren. Shall we +say that they are more charitable, more humane, less greedy of other +men's goods? I do not say so. But at all events it is perfectly true +that the Red Man, although he is dying out under the influence of +whiskey and other influences which need not be particularised, in his +native land, lives in comparative peace and comfort under the British +flag in Canada. He is content with the White Mother. He pursues the +occupations dear to his race as a hunter and as a fisherman. He is a +dealer in peltries, and in such small barter as his needs require. He +is the companion of sportsmen, and he delights, free as mountain air, +to hunt on the hillside and in the prairie in winter over the vast +ranges of snowy fields which in the few short months of spring and +summer teem with flowers, and the frosty lakes which yield fish to his +spear and net. There are few or no railways through his reservations +to vex his repose, no great trains of miners with pick and rifle to +drive away the moose and the buffalo, and hand the native hunter over +to starvation. The Indian gives to the white man all he needs, and aids +him in obtaining from the wide stretch of land over which he roams all +the wealth that it can afford. Practically one part of the Dominion +is handed over to the Red Man and to the half-breeds, for there is an +Indian frontier which as yet has not been much encroached upon by any +large migration of whites. As far as I know, conflicts north of the +Saint Lawrence between Indians and whites are unknown, or have not +been heard of for very many years. South of the great lakes, in the +wonderful land over which is displayed the banner of the stars and +stripes, the fate of the Indian is very different. In the words of Mr. +Carl Schurz, himself an expert in the question, "the history of the +relations of the United States with the Red Man presents in great part +a record of broken treaties, of unjust wars and of cruel spoliation." +That is a sweeping statement, which it would be just as well for +an Englishman not to make, but coming from the mouth of an American +citizen and of a United States Minister with plenty of evidence to back +it, there can be no harm in recording my conviction of its truth. It is +but another indictment against a defect in the form of government which +Americans exalt as the most perfect of human institutions, that the +central government made treaties in good faith with the Indian tribes, +but was unable to enforce their obligations or to maintain their +integrity. There is, as all well-informed people know--well informed, +at least, in reference to American affairs--a commissioner who makes an +annual report to the Secretary of the Interior respecting the Indian +tribes in the various locations over the Union and the Territories. +The last of these reports which I have seen is that of the Acting +Commissioner Mr. Marble, addressed to the Department of the Interior +from the office of Indian Affairs at Washington in the November of +last year. The volume contains the reports of the agents in the Indian +Territory; of the schools for Indian children established in pursuance +of a wise and humane policy, and detailed statistics in relation to the +Indian settlements and reservations, the latter indeed forming by far +the largest portion of the volume of 400 pages. Before I call attention +to the condition of the Indians, and the efforts made to save them from +extinction or from a degradation worse than annihilation, I should like +to direct the attention of those who are interested in the subject +to the view which is beginning to find favour, I believe, among the +most experienced men in the States, that the system of "Reservations" +is founded on a mistake the magnitude of which is demonstrated every +day, and that the only means of saving the Indians from extinction is +their gradual absorption as educated communities in the agricultural +life of the nation, keeping them far as may be from the white man, +but making no other distinction between them and the other citizens +of the United States than such as must be found in the nature of the +Indian race and their degree of culture and civilisation--treating +them, in fact, as communities of Mennonites, Mormons, or Norwegians, +or other nationalities would be treated in the United States. When +the Reservations were first established it was considered impossible +that the migration of the whites would extend to the remote regions of +the west to which the unfortunate survivors of the people with whose +virtues and vices Cooper and other novelists have made us familiar were +gradually and often remorselessly driven. It is a plea which will be +urged in bar of judgment that the doctrine of States Rights prevented +the interference of the United States Government on behalf of the +Indian tribes who were often ruthlessly destroyed. But it will scarcely +be a plea, I think, which humanity in full court would recognise as +valid. _Homo homini lupus._ But to the Red Man as to the Black in many +cases the White Man is worse than any wolf; far more bloodthirsty and +rapacious than any tiger--a Cain of Cains. It was our own kith and kin +who, landing on the shores of the North American continent, encroaching +by degrees upon the tribes and at last encountering their hostility, +spread their sway literally by fire and sword, and rooted out the +Red Man wherever they found him established on land or by sea which +they coveted. We, whose countrymen have worked out the same policy on +the Australian continent and Van Diemen's Land, and who can only be +restrained from its pursuit in New Zealand by the strong arm of the +Home Government, can scarcely afford to take up stones to fling at our +American brethren; and it is not with any purpose of indictment or +accusation that I proceed to make a few remarks on the relations of +the United States Government with the Red Man, and the efforts which +they have been making to compensate the Indians in some measure for the +injustice and persecution dealt out for many a generation. + +As I looked at the men gathered at some of the railroad stations in +the western desert and thought of the Red Men whose fate it is to +meet such representatives of civilisation and Christianity, I could +not but be filled with pity for the unfortunates and with wonder at +"the dispensation" under which they live. The faces are fine and bold +enough, bearded to the cheek or shaved in the American fashion, with +bold staring eyes, which "look square" in your own, with a general +expression "Do you want a fight?" in them--the heads to which they +belong are generally set on muscular bodies. If a gang of these men +think fit to go on to an Indian reservation--the very name is too often +a bitter mockery--who is to stop them? If the Indians try to do so and +one of the white intruders is killed the country-side rings with cries +of "vengeance for the massacre of our brethren," and all the papers are +filled with accounts of "Another Indian Outbreak." + +"The average frontier-man in the States looks," as Mr. Schurz says, +"upon the Indian merely as a nuisance in his way. There are many +whom it would be difficult to convince that it is a crime to kill an +Indian." I will go further and say that there are many, I believe, who +would take great pleasure in killing an Indian whenever they could; +or as one gentleman observed to me, and I believe in his relations +with white men no more just or honourable man or more humane could be +found, "I would sooner kill an Indian than I would a skunk." When I +was in the West, there was a cry raised that the Utes were about to +wage war, and appeals appeared in the local papers for a military force +to march against them. Their leaders were accused of arrogance and of +insolence, and of murderous designs, and the general remark one heard +was, "The Utes must go." I inquired a little into the matter when I got +back, and I found that the Utes were strictly and absolutely, in their +own right, standing upon the titles, which they had derived from the +United States Government, to the lands from which they were required +to move. These lands were wanted. Other lands were pointed out to them, +to which they objected, and then they were informed that they would be +moved by force, and preparations were made to levy war against these +unfortunates, if they resisted deportation from the territory which +had been assigned to them by the Great Father. Had they been Irish +landlords, they could not have been treated worse; but in the West not +one word was raised in favour of their claims. + +The first point which has to be considered is, that the Indian is +obnoxious to the very class of men with whom he is by the necessity +of things most closely brought in contact. The railway has been the +great persecutor of Red Men. It has driven away the game, it has +carried in proximity to their reservations all the enterprise charged +with whiskey, revolver, rifle, and greed, which can be furnished by +the offscourings of the world. In the Far West the miners in advance +throng into the valleys, and break the silence of the mountain-ranges +by the sound of their picks, the cattle-raisers spread out over the +plains, the ploughman settles down on the fertile land. "What," asks +the American philanthropist, and his question is echoed all over the +world by humane and good men, "what is to become of the Indian?" The +hunting-grounds are gradually being pushed farther west and north +until they are bounded by the sea, and by the eternal snow. And if by +any chance it should be found that there is gold or lead, silver or +iron, or copper, or coal in any abundance, even under these unpromising +conditions it will be sought. The buffalo is disappearing fast, faster +than the Indian himself. Deer are becoming scarcer every year. What +is to be left for the Red Man? Pastoral life and agriculture, say +the philanthropists. The substitution, however, is not so easy. The +weakness of the United States Government is the main cause why the +policy of reservations has failed. Let us take the account of it by a +United States Minister. "The Government," says Mr. Schurz, "has tried +to protect the Indians in good faith against encroachments, and has +failed. It has yielded to the pressure exercised upon it by people in +immediate contact with the Indians. When a collision between Indians +and whites once occurred, no matter who was responsible for it, our +military forces were always found on the side of the white against the +savage. How was Government to proclaim that white men should for ever +be excluded from the millions of acres covered by Indian reservations, +and that the national power would be exerted to do so?" Such an +idea the American Minister thinks would be utterly preposterous. The +rough and ready frontier-man would pick quarrels with the Indians; +the speculators would urge him on. Government could not prevent +collisions; the conflict once brought on, Government, in spite of its +good intentions and sense of justice, would find itself employing its +forces to hunt down the Indian. The old story would be repeated, as it +will be wherever, says Mr. Schurz, there is a large and valuable Indian +Reservation surrounded by white settlements, "and unjust, disgraceful +as it is, that is an inevitable result." Such being the case then, +the United States Government being powerless to see that right shall +be done, and it being at once a human and a Christian duty to avert, +if possible, the extinction of the original possessors of this grand +continent, let us see what can be done to carry out the object. Fit the +Indians, it is said, for the habits and occupations of civilised life; +give them individual possession of land as property, a fee-simple title +to the fields they cultivate, guarded by an absolute prohibition of +sale--because it has been found that whenever the Indians are exposed +to the temptation of artful traders, they will be cajoled out of the +titles they have to their land--and you will save the remnants from +utter destruction. I hope it will be so. I could not but feel a glow +of enthusiasm when I heard the Attorney-General, Mr. MacVeagh, at +Washington, speaking incidentally one day about some railway matter, +declare that he would not sanction the making of a line of railway +through Indian Territory until he was satisfied that the Indians +actually understood the conditions which had been offered to them by +the company. "I will," said Mr. MacVeagh, "send down government agents +there to ascertain that the Indians thoroughly understand what they +are doing, and that it is of their own free will and consent that the +railway passes through their territory in exchange for the money and +goods they receive for the concession." Excellent and just minister! +But, alas! I believe that ere I left the United States the whole thing +was done; the railway company had declared that they would, whether +or no, make their line, and if an Indian touched a hair of the head of +any white man, the United States Government would not be able to avert +the Divine wrath of every white man on the border from the whole of +the tribe. Well may Mr. Schurz say that the thought of exterminating a +race once the only occupants of the soil, where so many millions of our +own people have flourished, must be revolting to every American who is +not devoid of all sentiments of justice and humanity. Extermination or +civilisation is the alternative offered to the Indian. Now let us see +how it is proposed to civilise them. According to the returns in the +Report for 1880, the number of Indians in the United States, exclusive +of those in Alaska, is 256,127. Of these, 138,642 are described as +wearing citizen's dress. It will be observed that there is no estimate +given of the Indians who do not wear citizen's dress under this head. +Citizens must be sometimes very badly dressed indeed if the Indians I +saw at various stations along the line to San Francisco in shocking +bad hats and tattered clothes were to be included amongst those who +figured under this description in the report of the Commissioner. About +17,000 houses are reported as occupied. There are 224 schools, attended +by 6000 scholars for a month or more during the year, scattered over +the continent. About 34,550 Indians could read. There were 154 church +buildings and 74 missionaries. The number of children of school age was +34,541; but this was an under estimate. Of these there was only school +accommodation for 9972. The total amount expended for education during +the year by the United States Government was $249,299; by the State of +New York, $15,863; by the State of Pennsylvania, $325; by other States, +nothing; by religious societies, $46,933; by tribal funds, $7481. +22,048 Indian families were engaged in cultivating farms or small +patches of ground; 33,125 male Indians were labouring in civilised +pursuits; and 358 Indian apprentices had been pursuing trades during +the year. This census and these statistics are stated to be imperfect, +and it would require a close examination of the returns to enable an +inquirer to form any idea as to the progress made in the direction +which we are told is the alternative of destruction. + +The Reservations of the various Indian tribes are scattered irregularly +over the United States; from Michigan, Wisconsin, and Minnesota on +the north and north-west, away to the Territories on the other side +of the Rocky Mountains, down to New Mexico and Arizona, there being +none in the southern states bordering the Atlantic. But there are +Red Men of different tribes located, as the Americans would say, in +the States to the east, such as New York. The Reservations are of +irregular size and extent. Isabella, in the State of Maine, reserved +for 848 Indians, lies to the east of 86° longitude, and south of 44° +latitude. There is a considerable group of Reservations on the western +shore of Lake Michigan in Wisconsin, and in Minnesota. But the proper +Indian territory lies west of Arkansas, with the Red River on the +south, New Mexico on the west, and Kansas on the north; and in it are +concentrated the Cherokees, Choctaws, Chicasaws, Comanches, Cheyennes, +and several other tribes. The Navajo Reservation in New Mexico and +Arizona ranks perhaps next in size, extending northwards into Colorado, +where the Utes have got a large tract of land assigned to them upon +what appears now to be very doubtful or vanishing tenure. These, and +numerous reservations, which it would be tedious to enumerate, are +under the charge of agents appointed by the Government at Washington, +as to whose functions and personal character and attainments one +hears very surprising and contradictory reports. But I confess, from +a perusal of the documents which they have furnished to the head of +the Department, and which are published in the Annual Report, there +seems to me no just ground for imputing to these gentlemen want of +zeal, knowledge, interest, or intelligence. Those who detest the whole +work of saving the Red Man are very apt to impute to the Indian agents +not only corrupt practices in relation to the sale of government +stores and supplies destined for the use of those under their charge, +but illicit traffic in spirits, which is ruinous to the Red Man, and +even some participation in the acts of violence which have frequently +led to Indian troubles. It all depends upon the manner in which your +informant in the States regards the Indian Question whether the agents +are described as scoundrels whom no man could trust, or as gentlemen of +high propriety and general excellence. + +The necessities which have been imposed by advancing civilisation +of providing Indians with food entail a heavy outlay upon the United +States Government, which is much begrudged by large sections of members +of Congress, although they do not see their way clearly to withhold +supplies of food from the unfortunate people whose hunting-grounds have +been occupied, and who have not yet learned the arts of agriculture, +so as to be able to supply themselves with food. The transportation of +stores, the cost of beef, corn, coffee, bread, tobacco, tea; in fact, +all kinds of food, woollen goods, clothing, boots, hats, groceries, +waggons, tools, hardware, and medical supplies,--all these duly figure +in the estimates of the Indian Commissioner to a very considerable +amount, and the returns as yet do not present any large reduction on +the annual charge; although nearly all the agents speak in terms of +great hopefulness of the extraordinary advance which has been made in +their agencies in the cultivation of the soil. + +One remarkable division of the agencies has reference to their +appropriation to religious denominations. An Indian might well +be puzzled as to his form of belief if he were passed through the +various agencies, attending at each a religious service or two, and +listening to the teaching of the various divines attached to them. The +Society of Friends have control of the belief and religious teaching +of the Sante and Nemaja Indians in Nebraska, and of the Pawnees in +the Indian Territory; to the Methodists are assigned three tribes in +California, three tribes in Washington Territory, two in Oregon, three +in Montana, two in Idaho, and one in Michigan. The Nevada Cherokees, +Creeks, Choctaws, Chicasaws, and Seminoles are handed over to the +Baptists. The Presbyterians have charge of the Nezpercès in Idaho, +Umtas in Utah; the Apaches, Pueblos, and two other tribes in New +Mexico. The Congregational Church exercises its religious offices +among the tribes in Wisconsin, among two tribes in Dacotah, and one +in Washington Territory. The Reformed Church has its work cut out for +it in Arizona amongst four tribes. The Protestant Episcopal Church +exercises its jurisdiction over one tribe in Minnesota, six tribes in +Dacotah, one in Indian Territory, and one in Wyoming. The Unitarians +have apparently only one tribe in teaching, the Los Pinos in Colorado. +The United Presbyterians have one tribe in Oregon; the Christian Union +has another in Oregon; the Evangelical Lutheran has charge of the +Southern Utes in Colorado; and lastly, the Roman Catholic Church has +two tribes in Washington Territory, two in Oregon, one in Montana, +and two in Dacotah. As a general rule, the reports of the missionaries +themselves are more sanguine, as they are wont to be, than are those +of disinterested, perhaps unprejudiced, observers of their work. But, +as is natural, the actual progress made depends very much, not only +upon the nature of the tribe among whom the work is carried on, but +on the character of the missionary, and on his ability and energy. In +some instances, I see the condition of a tribe is reported as being +lamentable, from a religious point of view, whilst in a neighbouring +reservation, it is stated that great progress has been made in the +establishment of religious teaching and ideas. The Rosebud Agency is +said to prosper in the hands of one reverend gentlemen; the fathers of +St. Ignatius are described as doing good work amongst the Flatheads; +the Pawnees are left without any missionaries at all, and, says +the government report, "are probably better off without them." And +depreciatory remarks are slightingly introduced concerning the work at +other agencies. On the Devil's Lake Agency, the majority of the adults +shun the missionaries as they would the gentleman who may be supposed +to own the lake by the sides of which they are encamped. The Jesuit +fathers and the Catholic sisters are described as working generally +with zeal and success, whilst one agency assigned to the Methodists +is said to have no religious agency at all. It is to the success of +the attempts made to educate the Indians at the public establishments +that the philanthropist and humanitarian must look with the most +hopefulness. + +All the reports of the teachers and visitors of these schools coincide +in one point, that the young Indian is most teachable, and that in +respect of acquiring knowledge he is, if anything, the superior of the +white, who seems to enjoy no hereditary excellence in his capacity for +acquiring knowledge. The Bill to which the Report was an introduction +may be considered indeed as the Magna Charta of the Indian tribes +if it be followed up by judicious treatment, and careful management +of and consideration for the rights conferred upon these tribes as +preliminary to their absorption as citizens in the mass of the nation, +when they are fit for such an amalgamation with the white races. The +advance of the United States westwards has left vacant many military +posts and barracks, stranded, as it were, high and dry in the midst of +the torrent of civilisation. Fort Bridger, Wyoming; Carlisle Barracks, +Pennsylvania; Fort Craig, New Mexico; Fort Cummings, in the same +territory, and a number of others, have been named as suitable for +the purpose of educating the Indian children; and it was in pursuance +of the measure recommended to Congress that the various agencies +throughout the Indian Territories were directed to forward children +whom their parents might wish to entrust to the officers of the United +States for education. "Received in the rudest state of savagism," says +the Report, "their progress is already most remarkable." I have already +remarked that the health of the boys is not generally satisfactory. +Their sanitary condition is bad; and it would appear that sometimes in +these long and tedious journeyings from the remote Indian agencies the +poor children suffer much. + +Even at the present moment the Anglo-Saxon appears to be dealing with +the Maori in New Zealand very much as he has dealt with the native in +Tasmania and in Australia. The history of our relations with the New +Zealand chiefs and people is not in a nature to enable us to throw +stones at the Americans with impunity, for the glass house in which +we live can very easily be reached. Some sixteen or seventeen years +ago a rebellion, arising out of the aggressions of the white settlers +on the lands of the Maori, was averted by a Proclamation and by Acts +confiscating a large tract of Tallinassey, which became theoretically +the property of the Crown. Of course the natives had as little to say +to that as the lady who is mentioned in 'Tristram Shandy' had with the +declaration that "she was not related to her own child." But they did +not recognise the occupancy, and whenever a white man settled upon +a portion of the ground they pulled down his fences and removed his +landmarks. The contest is still going on, but no one who is acquainted +with the history of the colony will doubt what the end will be; and +it is coming soon, or it is to come, the moment the colonists are bent +upon taking the land, and when it is desired to do so. + +"It but feebly expresses the judgment formed from what we have observed +to say that we regard the experiment made in this school to educate and +improve Indian children as in every way a very remarkable success." _Si +sic omnes!_ Why does not the United States Government, or if not the +Government, the people, abounding in wealth, full of pious impulses, +humane, charitable, who justly say that the worst use you can make +of an Indian is to hang him; why do not the political economists who +declare that it costs a million of dollars to get rid of an Indian with +gunpowder and lead; why do not the enterprising and wealthy capitalists +who desire to appropriate Indian Reservations all combine to extend the +work of these schools so as to absorb all that remains of the Red Man +in the rising generation amongst the citizens of the great Republic? 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A Series of Volumes containing short biographies of the most +celebrated English Philosophers, to each of whom is assigned a separate +volume, giving as comprehensive and detailed a statement of his views +and contributions to Philosophy as possible, explanatory rather than +critical, opening with a brief biographical sketch, and concluding +with a short general summary, and a bibliographical appendix. The +Volumes will be issued at brief intervals, in square 16mo, 3_s._ 6_d._, +containing about 200 pp. each. + +The following are in the press:--- + +=Bacon.= Professor FOWLER, Professor of Logic in Oxford. + +=Berkeley.= Professor T. H. GREEN, Professor of Moral Philosophy, +Oxford. + +=Hamilton.= Professor MONK, Professor of Moral Philosophy, Dublin. +[Ready. + +=J. S. Mill.= HELEN TAYLOR, Editor of "The Works of Buckle," &c. + +=Mansel.= Rev. J. H. HUCKIN, D.D., Head Master of Repton. + +=Adam Smith.= J. A. FARRER, M.A., Author of "Primitive Manners and +Customs." 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About the + very time that we were on our way to the wharf to embark on + board the "_City of Berlin_," the murderer of the President + was accomplishing his purpose. But with all the means and + appliances which exist for the despatch of news, I believe + that the commission of the crime was not known till the + steamer had passed out to sea from the Sand Heads. + + [C] _See also_ Rose Library. + + + + +London: + +SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, & RIVINGTON, + +CROWN BUILDINGS, 188, FLEET STREET, E.C. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Hesperothen; Notes from the West, Vol. +II (of 2), by W. H. 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Russell. + </title> + <link rel="coverpage" href="images/title.jpg" /> + <style type="text/css"> +body { + margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; +} + +h1{ + text-align: center; + clear: both; + margin-top: 6em; +} + +h2 {text-align: center; + clear: both; + margin-top: 4em; + margin-bottom: 1em; + font-size: 1.2em; +} + +p { + margin-top: .75em; + text-align: left; + margin-bottom: .75em; +} + +p.hanging { + margin-left: 1em; + text-indent: -1em; +} +p.country { + margin-top: .2em; + margin-left: 2em; + text-indent: -1em; + margin-bottom: .2em; +} + +p.review { + margin-left: 1em; + font-size: smaller; +} + +.pagenum { + position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: smaller; + text-align: right; + font-style: normal; +} +hr { + width: 33%; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-bottom: 1em; + margin-left: 33%; + margin-right: auto; + clear: both; +} +hr.l05 {width: 5%; + margin-left: 47%;} + +hr.l30 { width: 30%; + margin-left: 35%; } + +hr.l15 { width: 15%; + margin-left: 42%;} + +.center { text-align: center; } + + +.smcap { font-variant: small-caps; } + +.author_list { + margin-left: 20%; + margin-right: 20%; + list-style-type:none; +} +.none { list-style-type: none;} +.footnote { + margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + font-size: 0.9em; +} + +.footnotes { border: dashed 1px; + margin-top: 6em; } +.fntitle { margin-top: 1em;} +.footnote .label { + position: absolute; + right: 84%; + text-align: right; +} + +.fnanchor { + vertical-align: super; + font-size: .8em; + text-decoration: + none; +} + +.poetry-container { text-align: center; } + +.poem { + display: inline-block; + font-size: 95%; + margin-bottom: 1em; + text-align: left; +} + +@media handheld { + .poem { + display: block; + margin-left: 5%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + +} + +.poem p { + margin: 0; + padding-left: 3em; + text-indent: -3em; } + +poem p.o1 { margin-left: -.4em; } +poem p.i1 { margin-left: 1em;} + +.p2 {margin-top: 2em;} +.p4 {margin-top: 4em;} +.p6 {margin-top: 6em;} + +.b20 {font-size:2.0em;} +.b12 {font-size:1.2em;} +.s08 {font-size:.8em;} +.s05 {font-size:.5em;} +.s04 {font-size:.4em;} + +table { + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + empty-cells: show; +} + +.verne {border: 1px solid; + border-collapse: collapse;} + +td {padding-left: 1em; + padding-right: 1em; + padding-top: 1em; + vertical-align: top; +} +.tdc {text-align: center;} +.tdr { text-align: right; } +.cs {text-indent: -1em; + margin-left: 1em;} + +.br {border-right: 1px solid;} +.bt {border-top: 1px solid;} + +.tnbox { + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + margin-bottom: 8em; + margin-top: auto; + text-align: center; + border: 1px solid; + padding: 1em; + color: black; + background-color: #f6f2f2; + width: 25em; +} + +.chapsum{ + font-size: .85em; + margin-left: 1em; + text-align: center; + margin-top: 1.5em; + margin-bottom: 2.5em; +} + + </style> + </head> +<body> + + +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Hesperothen; Notes from the West, Vol. II +(of 2), by W. H. Russell + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Hesperothen; Notes from the West, Vol. II (of 2) + A Record of a Ramble in the United States and Canada in + the Spring and Summer of 1881 + +Author: W. H. Russell + +Release Date: December 1, 2013 [EBook #44333] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HESPEROTHEN, VOLUME II *** + + + + +Produced by Melissa McDaniel and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive) + + + + + + +</pre> + + +<div class="tnbox"> +<p class="center"><b>Transcriber's Note:</b></p> +<p>Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. +Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation in the original +document have been preserved.</p> + +<p>On <a href="#Fritz">page 26</a> Count Fritz Thumb should possibly be Count FritzThumb.</p> + +<p>On <a href="#Indianopolis">page 120</a>, Indianopolis should possibly be Indianapolis.</p> + +<p>On <a href="#How">page 124</a>, General How should possibly be General Howe.</p> +</div> + +<h1> +HESPEROTHEN;<br /> +<br /> +<span class="s08">NOTES FROM THE WEST:</span><br /> +<br /> + +<span class="s04">A RECORD OF A</span><br /><br /> + +<span class="s05">RAMBLE IN THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA</span><br /> +<span class="s05">IN THE SPRING AND SUMMER OF 1881.</span></h1> + +<p class="center p4"><span class="s08">BY</span><br /> + +W. H. RUSSELL, LL.D.<br /> + +<span class="s05">BARRISTER-AT-LAW.</span></p> + +<p class="center p2"><i>IN TWO VOLUMES.</i></p> + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Vol. II.</span></p> + +<p class="center p4">LONDON:<br /> +SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, & RIVINGTON,<br /> +<span class="s08">CROWN BUILDINGS, 188 FLEET STREET.</span><br /> +1882.</p> + +<p class="center s05">[<i>All rights reserved.</i>]</p> + +<p class="center p6 s08"> +LONDON:<br /> +PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED,<br /> +STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING CROSS.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_iii" id="Page_iii">iii</a></span></p> + +<h2>CONTENTS OF VOL. II.</h2> +<hr class="l05" /> +<table summary="Table of Contents"> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="tdc">CHAPTER I.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="tdc">ARIZONA.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="cs">Deming—The Mirage—Ruined Cities—American Explorers—Self-Tormentors—Animals +and Plants—Yuma—California—Los +Angeles—Santa Monica—The Pacific</td> +<td class="tdr">Page <a href="#Page_1">1</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="tdc">CHAPTER II.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="tdc">THE YOSEMITE VALLEY.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="cs">A new Land of Goshen—A Jehu indeed—The Drive to Clarke's—A +Mountain Hostelry—Grizzlies—Fascination Point—The +Merced—Yosemite Fall—A Salute—Mountain Airs—The Mirror +Lake—"See that Rattle?"—A Philosophic Barber</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_19">19</a></td> + +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="tdc">CHAPTER III.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="tdc">SAN FRANCISCO.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="cs">The Palace Hotel—General McDowell—Palo-Alto—The "Hoodlums"—The +real Sir Roger—Exiles in the Far West—The +Chinese Population—For and Against them—The Sand Lot—Fast +Trotters—The Sea-Lions—The Diamond Palace—The +Coloured Population—"Eastward Ho!"</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_44">44</a></td> + +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="tdc">CHAPTER IV.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="tdc">CALIFORNIA TO COLORADO.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="cs">Los Angeles—Mud-geysers—"Billy the Kid"—General Fremont—Manitou, +the Garden of the Gods—Desperadoes—Bob Ingersoll—Denver +City—Leadville—Grand Cañon</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_73">73</a> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_iv" id="Page_iv">iv</a></span></td> + +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="tdc">CHAPTER V.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="tdc">KANSAS TO ST. LOUIS.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="cs">Liquor Law—Kansas Academy of Science—An Incident of Travel—A +Parting Symposium—Life in the Cars—St. Louis to New +York</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_107">107</a></td> + +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="tdc">CHAPTER VI.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="tdc">NEW YORK—NEWPORT—DEPARTURE.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="cs">Coney Island—Newport—Bass-fishing—Habit of Spitting—Brighton +Beach—Newport Coaching—Extra Ecclesiam—Victories +of American Horses—Newport Avenues—Return to +New York—Our Last Day in America</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_122">122</a></td> + +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="tdc">CHAPTER VII.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="tdc">RETURN TO EUROPE.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="cs">The "<i>City of Berlin</i>"—The Inman Line—The Service at Roche's +Point—Queenstown Discomforts—A sorry Welcome Home</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_140">140</a></td> + +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="tdc">CHAPTER VIII.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="tdc">SOME GENERAL REFLECTIONS.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="cs">Education—Free Schools—Influence of Money in Politics—Corruption +in Public Life—Crime on the Western Borders—The +Great Rebellion—Anniversaries—Great Courtesy to Strangers—Manners +and Customs</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_151">151</a></td> + +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="tdc">CHAPTER IX.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="tdc">THE RED MAN AND HIS DESTINY.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="cs">Captain Pratt—Carlisle Barracks—An Indian Bowman—The +Indian Question—The Pupils' Gossip—The "School News"—Indian +Visitors—The White Mother—The India Office—White +and Red—Quo Quousque?—Indian Title Deeds—The Reservations—The +Indian Agencies—Missionary Efforts—The Red +Man and the Maori</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_186">186</a></td> +</tr> +</table> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">1</a></span></p> + +<p class="center b20 p6">HESPEROTHEN.</p> + +<h2>CHAPTER I.<br /> + +ARIZONA.</h2> + +<p class="chapsum"> +Deming—The Mirage—Ruined Cities—American Explorers—Self-Tormentors—Animals +and Plants—Yuma—California—Los +Angeles—Santa Monica—The Pacific. +</p> + +<p><i>May 30th.</i>—At an hour as to which controversy +might arise, owing to the changes of time to which we +have been subjected, the train, which had pulled up but +seldom during the night, stopped at Deming Junction, +where the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fé Railroad +"connects" with the Southern Pacific, on which our +cars were to be "hauled" to San Francisco. Jefferson +time and San Francisco time differ two hours, so at one +end of the station we scored 6 <span class="s08">A.M.</span>, and at the other +8 <span class="s08">A.M.</span> The sooner one gets away from Deming in any +direction the better. A year ago—as is usually the +case hereabouts—there was not a trace of a town on +the dry ugly plain covered with prickly acacias and +"Spanish bayonets"; now Deming flourishes in gaming +and drinking saloons, express offices, and all the horrors +of "enterprise" in the West. The look-out revealed +a few tents, wooden shanties, a station, at which workmen +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">2</a></span> +were running up a frame-house, ground littered +with preserved provision tins, broken crockery, adobes +and refuse of all sorts. At the door of one hut, +swarming with flies, swung half a carcase of beef; two +women were washing, pale-faced, but not uncheerful +creatures, who had not a good opinion of Deming and +its population. "They carry out a dead man a day, or +used to," said one informant. The lady washerwomen +did not quite corroborate the figure; but, remarked the +chattier of the two, "there was a considerable shewtin' +about last night!" To the observation of one of the +party that he was "going to have a look about," the +other lady made reply, "I guess if you dew it will be +'hands up' for ten cents with you." On the platform +was a United States marshal, with a revolver stuck in +his belt, but his duties were considered to be punitive +rather than preventive. Here Mr. Chase and Mr. +Hawley left us to return to Topeka. At the abschiednehmen +Sir H. Green was affected by a proof of +interest in his welfare of a touching character and +very full of local colour; one of our friends beckoned +to him, took him aside, and pulling out a revolver +("It is hands up!" thought Sir Henry), fully loaded, +pressed it on his acceptance in the kindest manner as a +useful <i>compagnon de voyage</i>. As we were not to stay +at Deming, the self-sacrifice was not consummated.</p> + +<p>The regular train having come up, our special was +tacked on to it, and in an hour the locomotive puffed +out of the depot, and sped westerly on its way at the +rate of twenty miles an hour, across a plain some +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">3</a></span> +fifteen miles broad, bordered by jagged, irregular +mountain ranges north and south, as dry as a bone—so +dry that water for the engine has to be brought +to the stations in tanks. A scanty growth of what +looked like camel grass, interspersed euphorbias and +cactuses of great height, was all that met the eye. +We are approaching the great basin of Arizona, and +are warned that much dust and great heat must be +expected, and that the "scenery" does not improve in +point of variety or verdure, both of which are nearly at +zero. A vigorous, well-directed campaign against the +flies in the saloon gave us comparative repose; then the +blinds being pulled down, and the thermometer reduced +to 83 deg., society settled itself to study, with results +indicated presently by a gentle <i>susurrus</i> on the sofas. +A sudden alarm, "Look at the deer!" There sure +enough was a herd of antelopes flying over the scrub +towards the horizon, which flickered about in the heat +in a mirage of islands and uplifted mountain ends—so +vanished.</p> + +<p>After passing Lordsburgh, a desolate spot in the +desert, there appeared a beautiful mirage. The sand +became a sheet of water, waveless and mirror-like, and +in it we saw reflected in trenchant outline the mountain +range beyond. "It must be water! it is water!" +exclaimed an unbelieving director. And, lo! as he +spoke the "dust devils" rose and danced along the +face of the sea; in another minute the vision was gone; +the dazzling sand, white, blank and dull, mocked our +senses. This was near Stein's Pass, up which the train +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">4</a></span> +of nine carriages was climbing—"the heaviest train +that has gone over yet," said the triumphant conductor. +"But we thought we'd try it." Each waggon weighed +30 tons. The Pass is three miles long, and we were +working at a grade of 74 feet with a 19-inch cylinder +engine.</p> + +<p>Between Pyramid Station and San Simon (<i>stant +nomina umbrarum</i>—the names of mere shadows of +stations) the western border of New Mexico is crossed, +and we enter the great Territory of Arizona, which lies +between the Rocky Mountains and the Sierra Nevada.</p> + +<p>It is bounded by New Mexico on the east, by Mexico +on the south, by Utah and Nevada on the north and +north-west, and by California in continuation of the +western boundary. It is as large as New York, +Pennsylvania, Maryland, New Jersey, and Delaware +together. Whom it belonged to first, so far as occupation +constitutes possession, I know not; but the +Spaniards owned and neglected it for more than three +centuries before the Americans possessed it. In 1848 +and 1853 the regions now forming Arizona, New +Mexico, Colorado, Utah, and Nevada were ceded by +the descendants of the Spanish conquerors to the +conquering Anglo-American. It would need weeks of +assiduous travel to explore the portion of Arizona +where the most interesting ruins in America, the +cities of the Zoltecs or the Aztecs—for the experts +differ respecting their origin—are to be found. The +weight of authority and of recent investigation leads +one to believe that the Aztecs were not the builders +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">5</a></span> +of these ruined cities. Humboldt, indeed, believed +that they were; but, as Mr. Hinton remarks, in +his capital little handbook, which I recommend to +prospectors, emigrants, tourists, and travellers, "to +suppose such an utter abandonment of settled habitations, +it will be necessary to suppose some strange +impelling reasons, either in climate or other causes, +that must have amounted to a catastrophe. An +hypothesis which would leave a whole race able to +conquer an empire, and to preserve power enough to +abandon without destruction their old homes, implies +conditions and forces without a known historical +parallel." The conclusion that many native cities were +flourishing when the Spaniards arrived in America +may, perhaps, be questioned. There is a distinctive +character about them, differing from that of the +Mississippi mounds, the Central American pyramids, or +the ruined cities of Yucatan.</p> + +<p>The site of one of these cities was pointed out to us +from the train, and that was all we saw of them. +But I heard so much about the mysterious remains +that I was induced to procure Mr. Bancroft's remarkable +essay on the native races of the Pacific +Coast. Mr. Bancroft believes that the Pueblos and +other Indians, in a state of civilisation which they +subsequently lost, were the earliest inhabitants of these +countries and the builders of the cities; that the +Apaches came down upon them, and their work being +then aided by the Spaniards, this original agricultural +people were swept off the face of the earth. But +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">6</a></span> +where the Apaches came from the American ethnologists +have not, I believe, determined. For hundreds +of miles these ruins cover the country—stone houses, +ancient watch-towers, and adobe buildings, around +which are quantities of stone implements, masses of +crockery and pottery. In some places there are structures +of wood and stone, without iron, the masonry +consisting of thin plates of sandstone dressed on the +edges, and laid in coarse mortar nearly as hard as +the stone itself.</p> + +<p>The explorers who have discovered the most interesting +cities in Arizona and elsewhere were officers +of the United States army. They have been the true +pioneers of American civilisation in the West, and +it is most creditable to them that they have been +able to furnish so much scientific and antiquarian +observation in the execution of their arduous and often +painful duty in Indian warfare. There is no cold +shade cast upon the labours of officers who desire to +make a little reputation for themselves by contributions +to scientific publications, and by papers on natural +history and the like in periodical publications or in +the daily press.</p> + +<p>There is, as might be expected from its position, +a very high temperature in Arizona. This lasts +from the middle of June to the first of October. +During the best part of summer exertion of any kind +is impossible. Metal objects cannot be handled without +producing blisters; rain scarcely ever falls; and, +to keep up the drain of constant evaporation, a +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">7</a></span> +man must drink a gallon or two gallons of water a +day. Mr. Ross Brown, speaking of the summer, declares +that "everything dries. Waggons dry; men +dry; chickens dry. There is no juice left in anything, +living or dead, by the close of summer. Officers +and soldiers creak as they walk; chickens hatched at +the season come out of the shell ready cooked. Bacon +is eaten with a spoon, and butter must stand in the +sun an hour before the flies become dry enough for use. +The Indians sit in the river with fresh mud on their +heads, and, by dint of constant dipping and sprinkling, +manage to keep from roasting, though they usually +come out parboiled." But, although it is recorded +that a party encamped on a narrow cañon where +the temperature was 120 degrees, there was no sunstroke. +And in that respect the climate differs from +that on the eastern coast, where, especially this very +summer, a great number of deaths were caused by +<i>coup de soleil</i>. People, with the thermometer marking +94 degrees, talk of its being agreeably cold. An exceedingly +interesting fact, if it be one, connected +with residence in this part of the world is the wholesome +effect of complete abstinence. Death from want +of water was by no means infrequent in the old days +before so many wells were dug; but it only occurs +when there is a good deal of humidity in the air. +Although alcoholic drinks and tobacco have an injurious +effect, there is a large consumption of both at +all the stations and at the mines.</p> + +<p>As in the Orange River Free State, where probably +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">8</a></span> +the conditions of temperature are not very dissimilar, +pulmonary complaints are cured, so a residence in +Arizona, it is said, stops consumption; and there +are authentic statements that people who arrived in +a rapid decline have experienced almost immediate +relief of the principal symptoms, and have been finally +cured. Governor Safford, in an official letter, states +that his lungs were a good deal diseased, and that he +was suffering with a severe cough when he reached +Arizona, and that in six months his cough left him. +He is satisfied the warm, dry atmosphere acted like a +healing balm to diseased lungs, and that, the pores +being kept open, the impurities which attack weak +organs escape through the skin. Dr. Loryea, of San +Francisco, and Dr. Sawyer aver that Arizona is +nature's Turkish bath, and that Yuma, that evil-looking +place, contains the fountains of health.</p> + +<p>Of such vast regions a small acquaintance acquired +by passing rapidly twice over a line of railway does +not entitle one to speak; but, if what we read and +heard of Arizona be true, there is within its limits +enormous mineral and agricultural wealth. There +are carboniferous basins of great extent and richness. +The mountains teem with ore. Silver and gold, copper +pyrites, zinc, and lead are to be found over a great +range, the extent of which is as yet imperfectly +known. There are sulphates of nearly all the metals; +metallic oxides, chlorides, carbonates, nitrates; agates, +amethysts, garnets, and other precious stones. People +there are who believe that the diamond, the emerald, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">9</a></span> +and the ruby will turn up in due time. In fact, if one +were to be guided by the accounts in the papers or the +guide-books, he would think that a sure way of making +an immediate fortune would be to settle down on any +hillside in this favourite land. Nevertheless, what +I saw out of my window gave me reason to suppose +that there was poverty in Arizona as well as in the old +country. Nor did the buildings which I saw by the +way at the sparse stations and infrequent towns give +an idea that the in-dwellers were well-to-do in the +world. The adobe, or burnt brick, which is a common +material in lieu of better, has always a ruinous appearance. +The houses built of it yesterday seem tumbling +to pieces from the influences of old age.</p> + +<p>We take no note of time save by its relation +to constant motion, and to the "programme"—a +Procrustean bed on which we have voluntarily +placed our tortured limbs. Sometimes in the hours +of the night, which could not be called still because +of the incessant pealing, rattling, and thundering of +the train, I thought of the wonderful ways of man +with himself in such affairs as we were now engaged +in. There is a play of Terence which was +a trouble to me in my youth, so long ago that I +remember very little more of it than the dismal and +elongated name; but Mr. "Heautontimorumenos" +never needlessly bound himself up in a programme and +delivered his life over to a time-table! It is likely +enough, seeing what sort of man he was, that he would +have adopted that course had he lived in these days. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">10</a></span> +I admit that programmes are necessary when your +movements regulate, or have to be regulated by, those +of other people; and that was the case in some measure +with us, but the solicitude it occasioned the worthy +and valued friends, whose brows I perceived becoming +more puckered, and whose faces and spirits were heavy +with cares connected with the programme, to come up +to time, was beyond belief, and I vowed if ever I had my +own way with the ordering of a party I would have no +programme at all. And plot and calculate as you will, +a gale of wind, or a heated axle, or a broken bridge, or +a flood, upsets everything, and your schemes gang aglee +utterly! It was admirable to see how we were working +out the destiny we had made manifest for ourselves +in advance so long ago, but the task was not +easy. What curious sounds, by the way, our train +made at night! One could now and then compose +words to the tune of the wheels, and the regular rhythm +forced one at times to hum the words of a song, of which +the train seemed to hammer out the music. It seemed +so strange to be turning into bed night after night, +and waking up to pass the same life day after day, +like a log of wood carried on by an interminable, +irresistible torrent.</p> + +<p>Provided with books and newspapers, and friends to +converse with, as well as with sights to see, we had, +however, no reason to complain that time hung heavy +on our hands as the train sped on. The books were very +utilitarian, it is true—Reports of Chambers of Commerce, +statistics and papers connected with railway and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">11</a></span> +commercial enterprise and the like. But our directors +took to that literature with avidity, and aided by maps +and tables, copiously furnished to them, seemed bent +on passing with honours in a competitive examination +anent the American railway system. There were +always, close at hand in the cars, competent authorities +to answer questions, or able champions to engage in +controversy, and as I heard all the subtle contentions, +which I did not understand, concerning signalling and +baggage checking, gauges and engines, curves and +gradients, freights and fares, I was set to think what +the field had been in which all the ingenuity and talent +displayed in dealing with such topics were exercised +in pre-railway days. These discussions were mostly +connected with the consideration of profits and percentages, +and that was a neutral ground on which the +combatants manœuvred their facts and figures as in a +natural "<i>schauplatz</i>". There were times when such +investigations ran down like a clock, and no one wound +them up again for a few hours, and then my friends +digested the remains they found on the field of battle +and strengthened themselves for friendly jousting.</p> + +<p>Not very long ago there would have been exceedingly +good sporting in many parts of Arizona. +Grizzly bears, common and black bears; pumas, mountain +sheep, jaguars, ocelots, opossums, panthers, wolves, +and lynxes are largely distributed over the hill ranges. +There are also hares and rabbits and many smaller +animals. Wild turkeys have much diminished of late +years; but there is a variety of birds, some of them +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">12</a></span> +excellent for the spit. The chase, however, is attended +with some danger, unless one is very well booted and +looks out where he treads, as rattle-snakes abound, and +are of exceeding virulence, the black species being +especially deadly. There are horned toads, but these +are harmless.</p> + +<p>For the botanist Arizona is an almost inexhaustible +field of delight. Any one who likes to read of vegetable +wonders, or of an extraordinarily varied flora, +cannot do better than get Dr. Loryea's work, or read +'New Mexico,' by Elias Brevoort. The growth which +struck us most was that of the extraordinary cactus +called the candelabra or Sahuaro. It is worth while +going so far as the railway will take one to see these +plants sticking up on the sides of a rock without a +trace of verdure or moisture, rising to the height of +40 or 50 feet, and throwing out enormous arms at the +most grotesque angles, each varying from the other in +shape, the number of its arms, and in the manner in +which they are disposed. This giant cactus is covered +with prickles, and is of a light green colour. It is +said that in the old days the Apache Indians not unfrequently +made use of them as handy means of torture, +and nailed their victims to a cactus previous to setting +fire to it. The body of the plant is resinous, and it +can be easily converted into a bonfire. Here and +there we saw some with traces of pale yellow flowers. +When these are gone there is a fruit, which makes an +excellent preserve, or can be boiled into sugar. Then +there are prickly pears in great quantities; and there +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">13</a></span> +is a "negro-head cactus," with a round top covered +with sharp spines, which furnished the Mexicans with +fish-hooks. "There is a soul of beauty in things +evil." If a thirsty traveller coming upon one of these +plants kindles a fire around it, the juices of its body +are gradually concentrated into a central cavity, where +they only wait incision to be liberated in the form of +a pleasant drink, half a gallon or more in quantity. +The appliances for getting a drink out of most of +these roots are described at length in various books +of travel; but however useful they may have been at +the time, the activity of the Atchison, Topeka and +Santa Fé Railway will in all probability exempt +travellers in future from any necessity to avail themselves +of these ingenious devices. Trees flourish in +spite of the heat and want of water. As various as +the trees are the human inhabitants, and one of +the greatest marvels connected with them, perhaps, +is the extraordinary variety of dialects amongst people +of the same race, who lived in the same country +long before the white man came to trouble them. +They are decreasing, of course, in numbers; but in +some of the reservations they seem to have arrested +downward progress, and to have taken to some +form of agricultural labour. At present Arizona is +the happy hunting-ground of the unfortunate red +man. There is, I am assured, no disposition on the +part of the whites to intrude upon the reservations of +the various tribes. I did not hear of any one who +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">14</a></span> +had come in from the East to settle with the view of +making his fortune by farming; but miners have +flooded the cañons, and climbed the mountain-tops; +and now they have settled down into a steady way of +life without any big "booms," as the Americans say, but +with prospects of pretty certain returns for their labour.</p> + +<p>All night we travelled on, and when the morning +came, we were still traversing the desert, still passing +through one of the most sterile wastes on the face of +the earth, where, however, by strange contrasts of +nature—or is it strange?—there were in the mountains +and in the ravines rich ores to tempt the cupidity +and enterprize of man. We are continually reminded +of similar wastes in India and in Africa; but no one, +as far as I know, has yet discovered any mineral +wealth in the north-western deserts of our Indian +Empire. And although Captain Burton and others +have fancied they have come across an El Dorado in +Southern Egypt, and Ibrahim Pasha had such faith +in the existence of gold in those regions that he led +forth an expedition to perish there, there is no such +fortune in store for the adventurous miner as awaits +him in Arizona, Colorado, and California.</p> + +<p><i>June 1st.</i>—Everyone who has entered Arizona, or +left it—and let us hope he went back all the better +for his visit—will recollect Yuma for ever.</p> + +<p>Yuma is on the Colorado, which divides California +from Arizona. The muddy waters of the river rush +with immense velocity past the buttresses of the fine +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">15</a></span> +bridge, with a draw for steamers, that spans it. The +town consists apparently of adobe houses, and these not +very regularly built. I could not visit the main street +for lack of time, but the offshoots within eyeshot of us +were not tempting. All we could see from the railway +windows were flat-roofed adobe houses, some squalid +Indians nearly naked, the buildings, with the Stars and +Stripes over them, of the United States post on the left +bank, and a few wooden sheds. It is said to be one of +the hottest places in the world, and certainly looked +dry and dusty. They say that a soldier who died there +and went to an unmentionable place, returned in the +spirit to beg for a blanket, as he felt so cold!</p> + +<p>More happily constituted travellers than most of +us have seen something pleasing in the aspect of the +country roundabout, and have been moved to much admiration +by the various tints of the hills in the distance, +and by the rocks which constitute the near limits of +the valley through which the river passes. In the old +days, when the stage-coaches offered the only means of +travelling through the district, there might have been +a good deal to see along the road; but the rail generally +avoids sights, and where nature is at its best, the +engineer strikes deep down and burrows if he can. +The colours of the hills are bright and varied; the +lava rocks are of many shades, and the sun, piercing +through strata of pure air, illuminates them with +great vividness and force; but after a time the eye +tires of the uniform hues of the landscape. For a few +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">16</a></span> +miles the rail runs close to the river, then plunges +into the most remorseless, cruel waste of sand and +rock, spread out up to the foot of the rugged hills of +the Barnardino Range, I ever beheld—an abomination +of desolation compared with which the Libyan Desert +or the plains of Scinde were the Garden of the Hesperides. +I cannot describe, nor could I at any time hope +to succeed in giving an adequate conception of this +dreadful wilderness. For 107 miles west there is not +a drop of water to be found; the stations are dependent +on the railway for their supplies. But +Nature, as if to take away the reproach of permitting +such a vast blotch on her fair face, kindly threw in +Fata Morgana. We saw with delight widespread +lakes with fairy islands in the midst; placid seas +washing the base of the distant hills. This baked and +dreary expanse extends nearly to San Gorgonio. We +were spared the sandstorms which are so dreadful, +nor did we experience inconvenience from the dust. +The traveller, who has begun to despair of ever +seeing anything greener than giant cacti and the +adamantine vegetation which dispenses with water, +is agreeably surprised as he approaches Los Angeles. +If he be as fortunate as we were in having such friends +as Colonel Baker and his wife to take charge of him, +he will be amply repaid for far greater discomforts +than any he experienced in the Colorado desert. From +Los Angeles there is a railway to Santa Monica, seventeen +miles distant, which belongs to Colonel Baker; +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">17</a></span> +and I would advise every one who can, either to spare +or make the time for a diversion to that most delightful +spot. Judge of the pleasure we felt when, after a +picturesque run through orange groves, vineyards, and +fields of corn and barley, we gazed on the waters of +the Pacific—"θαλαττα! +θαλαττα!" What a glorious +scene! the broad bay lighted by the rays of the declining +sun; the blue waves rolling on in solemn +march, and breaking in long lines of foam on the +dazzling sand, and nearer still the gardens and trees +of the Pacific Biarritz which was about to welcome +us! Our palace-car and its attendant carriages shot +into a siding close to the beach. In a few minutes +"every man Jack" was off to the bathing establishment +to conform to the regulations ere we plunged +into the sea. It is an orthodox bathing-place of the +highest order. The Baths are extensive, and provided +with every convenience and comfort for ladies and invalids; +hot and cold, salt water and fresh, for those +who do not like to trust themselves to the sea. A rope +extended seaward to hold on by was needful, for the +surf was heavy and the undertow strong. The water +was delicious. Generally there is less sea on, and it +is never too hot or too cold for bathing. Next morning +we had another bath in a still rougher Pacific. The +Duke and some of the party were driven about the +country by Colonel and Mrs. Baker, and at 3 <span class="s08">P.M.</span>, to +our sorrow, we left the most lovable little spot of all +we have seen on this continent. Good fortune be in +store for Santa Monica! At Los Angeles, where carriages +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">18</a></span> +were waiting, we drove through the streets and +suburbs, which enabled us to appreciate the reasons +which induced the Spanish founders to give the city its +name. In the evening we continued our journey, +passing in the dark over the feat of engineering called +the Loop. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">19</a></span></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER II.<br /> +THE YOSEMITE VALLEY.</h2> + +<p class="chapsum"> +A new Land of Goshen—A Jehu indeed—The Drive to Clarke's—A +Mountain Hostelry—Grizzlies—Fascination Point—The +Merced—Yosemite Fall—A Salute—Mountain Airs—The Mirror +Lake—"See that Rattle?"—A Philosophic Barber. +</p> + +<p><i>June 2nd.</i>—It is astonishing how soon one gets +accustomed to the rattle and rumble of the rail, and +sleeps all the night through after a time, waking up +only when a train stops at a station, just as a miller is +roused by the cessation of the clock of the mill-wheel. +We keep good hours, and so at 4.30 this morning I +was looking out of the window at a sea of blue mountain +ridges upon the west, which looked like the waves of +the ocean, so varied in the serrated edges was the line +of stony waves which seemed as if they were about to +sweep down over the great stretch of prairie. We +were passing through a new land of Goshen, at least +that was the name which I detected on the station +board, indicating a junction with another line, and early +as was the hour the door of the hospitable restaurant +was open, and gentlemen in front were to be seen +drawing their hands across their lips as if they had +been taking a refresher in the early morning. Close +at hand the country was perfectly flat, covered with +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">20</a></span> +glorious crops nearly ripe for the sickle, and indeed +cut and stacked in some places. Water appeared +abundant; a river flowing west was visible at intervals, +its course marked by a line of trees. Large black +cranes stalked about in the meadow-like fields, and +hares sat up on end to take a look at the train. The +paucity of human beings, except at the rare stations, +was remarkable; only when I say "rare," perhaps I am +scarcely justified, as there were little wooden huts at +intervals perhaps of ten or twelve miles, where a saloon +announced itself, and a possible ticket-office.</p> + +<p>On the east of the plain through which the line runs, +the peaks of the Sierra Nevada were visible, but the +journey was rather monotonous all the same, and we +were glad when our train halted at Madera, about +ninety miles from Goshen, where we were to get out +and start on our expedition to the Yosemite Valley. +Especial arrangements had been made for our conveyance, +but I almost doubt now whether it would not +have been better for us to have taken the ordinary +carriage which leaves Madera every day, except Monday, +for the Yosemite Valley, at 7.45, arriving at Clarke's +or Bruce's in somewhat less than twelve hours, so as +to bring daylight with it to the halting-place; a very +desirable thing, as we soon found out. It was 8 +o'clock before our party started from Madera, in two +Kendal carriages with four horses each. In one was +the Duke, Lady Green, Mr. Stephen, and myself, with +Crockett on the box; in another were Sir Henry +Green, Mr. Wright, Major Anderson, and Mr. Jerome. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">21</a></span> +Our driver was a man with the impossible name of +MacLenathan, a resolute, dry, taciturn man, with a +good face, seamed with the exposure to sun and rain of +many years on the box. But he told us he had deserted +it lately, and had taken to the work of livery stable +keeper, only coming out on this occasion as driver to +do honour to the Duke. As it turned out, it was well +his right and his left hand had not lost their cunning. +The driver of the other carriage was a noted character, +rejoicing in the name of "Buffalo Bill," and later on +we had reason to feel very thankful to him also for the +possession of great pluck and nerve. For some ten or +twelve miles the route, which consists of mere wheel +tracks over the prairie, runs over moderately undulating +land. On the right there is a shoot or <i>flume</i> for +carrying down timber from the upper part of the +mountain ridge fifty miles away. The dust was +troublesome, and the rapid motion of the four horses +scarcely saved us from the roasting sun. The scenery +was not interesting; indeed, the great object of +attraction was the little Californian quail with his +pretty crest, running across through the grass or +jumping up upon a stump to have a look at the +travellers. Stage stables were far apart, but the +speed was fair, and it was astonishing to see the +excellent condition in which the horses were at +the end of their long canter, and what capital steeds +were taken out of the stalls, in which they were +feeding on barley-straw, to be put into the traces. +I think the average length of the stages was about +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">22</a></span> +twelve miles. We lost about an hour at a little +mining village where we halted for dinner, a place +called Coarse Gold, as well as I recollect, consisting +of the usual buildings, a few shanties, the store, the +hotel, far better than might have been expected, and +a sort of wigwam or one-storeyed house, in front of +which were assembled a number of "Digger Indians," +degraded specimens of a degraded tribe. They sat +looking at the new arrivals in the most apathetic +manner, just as they might regard so many flies. +The men were dressed in a compromise of old Indian +attire, leather leggings and deerskin jackets, with +European clothing, caps, bad hats and trousers, and +old boots, the women swathed ungracefully in what +seemed to be pieces of blanket, their legs encased in +folds of dirty cotton. One of these Diggers was +very slightly dressed, and as it is intensely cold in +the winter, we asked him whether he did not feel +the effect of the frost and snow. He knew a little +English, and made the most of it. "When your body +is covered you do not feel the cold," he said; "But +your face is always uncovered, and yet you do not feel +the cold there. An Indian's body is all face." And +that was all the explanation he would vouchsafe +to us. Somehow or another, what with delays at the +stations, possibly caused by our being out of the +regular running, and being an interpolation on the +ordinary course of travel, and possibly owing to our +reduced speed, for the carriages with four horses +did not, it seems, go as fast as the public conveyance +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">23</a></span> +with six, it was getting dark as we approached +the line of wooded hills, in a valley in which, many +miles away, lay our halting-place for the night. The +result of our delay in starting, concerning which +the driver had been severe from time to time, was +startlingly manifest as the coaches mounted the +steep ascents of one of the most tortuous roads in +the world. The spurs of the hills come down very +sharply to the valley, and the road is carried round by a +series of very severe gradients following the contour +of the mountain-chain, so that at one time there is a +deep gorge on your left, and then, as the road leaves +that spur with the valley on that side and crosses to +another spur, there is a great descent on the right, so +that you are continually passing along by a series of +precipices, to which, in our case, the fast gathering +gloom imparted additional horror. Through the +sighing of the wind in the trees aloft came the roar +of the torrents down below. The drivers went along +at a good steady canter, and from time to time, as we +came round a sharp curve, I dare say the thought was +in every one's mind, what would happen if one of the +leaders fell, or if the driver slipped his hand in gathering +up the reins to go round the corner. The scenery +became more wild and formidable, so to speak, at every +fresh turn. The colossal trees, which challenged +admiration in the daytime, closed up in greater volume, +darkening the narrow road completely, so that in an +hour after entering upon the mountain-range it became +as black as pitch. The lamps of Buffalo Bill +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">24</a></span> +in the leading carriage were some guide to our driver. +He had none, and it was with anxiety, renewed every +ten minutes or so, that we saw the lights in front +describe a graceful curve, which showed that they +were passing by one of the dips or cuts of the road. +It needed skill and judgment for MacLenathan to +conduct the carriage, because if he drove too close to +that in front of us, the clouds of dust obscured the +view, and if he dropped too far behind he lost the +benefit of the lights. By enormous trunks of trees, +by piles of timber, through deep cuttings in the rock, +plashing over watercourses, descending swiftly into +river-beds, and splashing through the fords over +boulders, then climbing up steep hillsides, on and +on, it seemed as though the night would never +come to an end, and we inwardly, and audibly too, expressed +our regret that we had not started a little +earlier; but still there was an almost pleasurable +excitement in holding on as we swept round one of +these terrible gorges, and tried to look down into +the gulf beneath. That last stage seemed interminable, +but towards 9 o'clock at night the driver of the +coach in front announced that we were getting "near +at last"; and lucky it was, for his lights were giving +out. "It is just as well that they did not," said our +driver, "because it would be bad for you." "Why?" +"Well," he said, "you would just have to get out +and walk! I would not undertake to drive any one +in the dark along such a road as this." Presently we +heard the noise of rushing water, and gained the bank +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">25</a></span> +of a stream flowing with swiftness over a shingle bed. +This we crossed, and in half an hour more, through +the dark belt of trees in front, lights were discerned, +and, crossing another stream and a bridge, our wearied +horses were pulled up in front of the hotel, a large +wooden building, on the steps of which were the landlord +and his staff, and most of the inmates turned out +to greet and inspect the travellers who had been long +expected. "It is a bad country to go driving about +in the dark," said Mr. Bruce, the landlord, a sentiment +in which we thoroughly agreed. There was a +supper in the common room, to which, albeit the fare +was primitive enough, we did ample justice. Travellers +have complained of the charges along the road, +but, considering the distance which all articles have +to be carried to the Valley, the heavy duties, and the +shortness of the season, I do not think that any one +with experience of Swiss inns would complain much; +and if the traveller desires to drink claret, he must not +be astonished if he pays eight or nine shillings a bottle +for it. The ordinary fare, at hotel prices, is quite +good enough for hungry people, and eggs, milk, and +bread are abundant, and not dear. The bedrooms, +sufficiently simple in all their appointments, are good +enough to be welcome to tired people, for there is +a fair bed to lie upon, and the sheets, as far as our +experience went, were clean and fresh. Nor were the +insect horrors, of which we may have some knowledge +in parts of Europe, to be dreaded, not even +mosquitoes at this time of year. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">26</a></span></p> + +<p>Soon after dawn a thunderstorm broke over the +valley, hail and torrents of rain, and the landlord congratulated +us upon the cooling effect it would have on +the air, and on the absence of dust, which is rather troublesome +at times. It was necessary to make an early +start in the morning, for it is a long journey to the +Yosemite. For some years past the Valley has become a +kind of American Chamouni, and if Americans swarm +over Europe in search of the sublime and beautiful, +they cannot be accused of neglecting altogether their +own country. The first thing I saw, on walking out +on the verandah of the hotel, was the stage-coach and +six horses, with eight ladies and nine gentlemen, +loading up for the Valley. They had arrived late the +night before, a little in advance of us, and yet the +ladies, bravely attired for the road, were all in their +place in the <i>char à bancs</i> long before 7. Travellers +frequently stay at Bruce's, and our host promises +good sport to any one who will make it his headquarters; +but I cannot speak with any confidence on +that point myself; still I should think it a very pleasant +quarter for a man who had nothing else to do, +and who had an aptitude for climbing, to go about +looking out big game. We heard talk of pheasants, +but saw none: the bird which is called by that name +not being entitled to it, according to ornithologists. +In front of the hotel was laid out the skin of +a cinnamon bear, which had been shot by an Austrian +gentleman—"<a name="Fritz" id="Fritz">Count Fritz Thumb</a>," the landlord called +him—a few days previously, and which was to be sent +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">27</a></span> +after him as a trophy of his skill. "But," says +Boniface, "it was not he shot him at all; it was 'is +old Injun hunter." Grizzlies, he said, were rare, but +they were to be found if you went up high enough, +and as he spoke he pointed up to the mountains +towering away in the distance in grand Alpine proportions. +Deer were common enough, and there were +some tame specimens of the ordinary black deer +running about in the enclosure. We had an early +start, but not quite so early as the Americans; and it +was wonderful how well our four hardy horses did +the first stage, six and twenty miles, including some +very sharp ascents from the Hotel.</p> + +<p>From time to time we got out and walked up the +sharp bits, diverging to the right or left to gather the +lovely flowers which grew on the roadside, or halting +to admire the giant trees which clothed the mountain +ridges. Pitiable ignorance! not to know the names of +the plants or shrubs or wonderful bunches of blossoms, +among which fluttered the most magnificently coloured +butterflies. Woodpeckers of many different species +uttered their quaint notes in jerky flight from tree to +tree, or peered at the travellers from the shelter of the +branches. Firs, pines, and spruces of enormous size, +and trees to me unknown, formed a dense forest on +each side of the road; but now and then we caught +glimpses of the stupendous ranges of the alps beyond. +It was lamentable to see the waste and wreck wrought +in this wondrous wealth of timber—reckless, wicked +waste. Charred trunks stood with leafless arms +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">28</a></span> +withered and black, or lay prone among the ferns in +myriads. This was, we were told, the work of shepherds, +who think nothing of setting fire to one of the +finest trees in the world to warm themselves for an +hour, and are delighted with a conflagration which +may lay a hillside in ashes. And the Indians too are +held to have their share in the destruction. There +was enough of timber wasted and destroyed mile after +mile to build a city. The nemesis must come; already +the alarm has been sounded, and the State authorities +here and elsewhere are trying to prevent the mischief. +I have often had occasion to regret my ignorance of +botany <i>inter alia</i>; but never did I feel it more than +when I was walking up the road, on each side of +which was a carpet of flowers, a maze of shrubs and +plants—dense brushwood—to not one of which could +I give a name. We arrived at the Halfway House at +12.35 as much pleased as the horses which brought us +there so well at the respite, for it was an awful "pull +up," and the coachman did his work at high pressure. +In the course of our pilgrimage we had found a very +pleasant <i>divertissement</i>. The Major, Mr. White, and +Mr. Jerome had excellent voices, and from time to time +they burst into song, giving with great effect the +quaint negro melodies, which are now made familiar to +us in London, from a very large <i>répertoire</i>; and so the +afternoon passed in quiet enjoyment as we climbed the +hills on foot or in the carriages—snatches of talk, +exclamations of wonder and delight, and outbursts +of the 'Golden Slipper,' 'O! that 'Possum,' 'The +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">29</a></span> +Ark,' 'John Brown,' 'Tramp, Tramp,' and other +choruses.</p> + +<p>It was near 4 o'clock when the driver, who had been +silent for some time, looking round at us occasionally +as one who would say, "Wait a little till I surprise +you," suddenly pulling up, said, "Now, here you are. +This is Fascination Point! Won't you get down +a bit?" And, lo! there indeed lay before us a scene +of indescribable grandeur. I know nothing like the +effect produced by Yosemite Valley when seen for the +first time from this point. It has a characteristic +which no other similar view I am acquainted with +possesses. You take in at one glance stupendous +mountain-ranges, all but perpendicular, beyond which +you see the snowy crests of the great Sierra, the +profound valley between them, a long vista of extraordinary +magnificence, of cascades and precipitous +waterfalls, and far down below a silvery river rushing +through a forest composed of the noblest trees in the +world, with patches of emerald-green sward and bright +meadows.</p> + +<p>I see that by a slip of the pen I have miscalled the +place from which we got our first view of the wondrous +scene. But I have a right to change the name for my +own use. What the driver said was "Inspiration +Point." I prefer my mistake, for the view inspires +you with no feeling save that of wonder and delight. +These sublime scenes appear to be beyond the reach of +poetry. Niagara and the Yosemite have not yet found +a laureate. The peculiar and unique feature of the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">30</a></span> +valley seems to me to be the height and boldness of +the cliffs which spring out from the mountain-sides +like sentinels to watch and ward over the secrets of +the gorge; next to that is the number and height of +the waterfalls; but it is only by degrees and by comparison +that the mind takes in the fact that the cliffs +are not hundreds, but thousands of feet high—that +these bright, flashing, fleecy cataracts fall for thousands +of feet—that the rent which has been torn in the +heart of the mountains, till it is closed by the awful +granite portals beyond which no mortal may pass, +extends for miles. I thought as I gazed that it were +pity to descend, lest a nearer view might destroy the +effect of that <i>coup d'œil</i>; but the driver had regulated +the period for rapture. He whipped us up to our +places by word of mouth, and the carriages renewed +their course, now striking by bold zigzags down into +the valley for our destination, which was still six +miles away. I shall not attempt to describe my own +feelings, far less can I pretend to tell what others, +probably far more susceptible of the beauty and +grandeur of what we beheld than I am, may have felt +at the succession of the awe-inspiring revelations +of the tremendous grandeur of the Valley which came +upon us. What is the use of rolling off a catalogue of +names and figures?—even the brush of the painter, +charged with the truest colours and guided by the +finest hand and eye, could never do justice—that is, +could never give a just idea of these cliffs and waterfalls. +"El Capitan! Oh, that's the name, is it? +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">31</a></span> +Three thousand three hundred feet high!" And then +you try to take in what that means. "And it's 3500 +feet down to the Valley? Dear me!" "And that is +the Cathedral Rock? And those two peaks are the +Spires? I don't exactly see the resemblance; do +you?"</p> + +<p>There was a sort of wail of delight from us all as we +came on the "Bridal Veil Fall"; and I do not think +any one cared to know that it was just 60 short of +1000 feet high! Surely one of the most graceful, +lovely <i>chutes d'eau</i> on earth, lost though it be from +view behind the rocks at the close of its feathery +flight! But there was no stopping to look at anything; +relentless Fate drove us down and on, till the +wheels rolled more evenly, and at last we came to +the bed of the valley—some 1800 yards broad, opening +out here and there yet wider—and we rejoiced in the +sight of the bright clear water of the Merced, child +of innumerable icy mothers, flashing, sparkling, dashing +and brawling, like a myriad Lodores, between her +banks decked with flowers and covered with forest +trees.</p> + +<p>Suddenly there dashed out of a glade two cavaliers, +and made full tilt at the leading carriage. "To +arms!" Not a bit of it! Nor banditti or Injuns—of +whom we had met one or two riding sullenly along +to the hunting-grounds—no, only two hotel touts +armed with cards of self-commendation, and not apparently +in much rivalry, for when told that we had +engaged our hotel, they galloped off to waylay other +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">32</a></span> +travellers, of whose coming they were apprized by our +driver. Our hotel, I may say by the way, gave us +full contentment. The site was admirable, commanding +a full and near view of <i>the</i> Fall of Falls—the +Yosemite—which had so fascinated our eyes that +we could scarce divert them to any other object—not +"Widow's Tears," or "Virgin's Tears," nor the +"Three Brothers," not anything but the Yosemite! +And so, when our rooms were pointed out, we made +off to the spot where the fine cloudlike vapour +rising above the tree-tops indicated the basin into +which the waters sought rest after their troubled +leap.</p> + +<p>Our way lay through the usual gathering of stores, +hotels, livery stables for the horses and ponies +needed for the excursions, and curiosity dealers' shops, +to the village street, as it may be termed, shadowed +by fine trees, under which reposed some Indians—one +of whom, an Amazon in yellow toga, went riding full +gallop past us, her hair falling in a black mat on her +shoulders, sitting low, in Melton style, regardless of +poultry, children, and boulders, and vanishing in a +cloud of dust under the trees. Then we turned to the +left and crossed the river by a rustic bridge; and as I +looked down into the dancing waters certain shadow-like +objects flew up against the current. "Trout?" +asked I. "Yes, they're trout. They take 'em—when +they dew—five pounds weight. The Injuns catch +'em. We don't understand it as well." A short walk, +with eyes ever up-turned, and we come out to a +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">33</a></span> +moraine, and, clambering up over a mass of trunks of +trees and decaying timber, <i>the</i> Falls were before us—I +cannot write more—no adjective will do. "Two +thousand six hundred and thirty-four feet, mind!" +says the voice. "I don't care," thought we, "it's +the most beautiful and wonderful water-jump ever +seen by human eye." "It only remains," as they +say, to state that there is first, falling over a sheet +of granite straight as a wall, a considerable river, +which in the plunge comes down at once 1600 feet. +There, in a basin of rock, it collects its scattered +forces, under cover of eternal spray and cloud, and +then takes another header of 434 feet to a barrier +of granite, against which it rages for a mad moment, +till it swells over and escapes from control by another +spring of 600 feet sheer down—and now it is free, +and rushes past at our feet, a joyous flashing stream.</p> + +<p>We returned through the meadows from the Falls, +and as I was walking in advance of the party a +snake wriggled across the path, which I struck at +instinctively with my stick, and was lucky enough to +kill at the first blow. I exhibited the carcass, or +whatever a snake's dead body may be, in triumph to +my companions. Further on our way we fell in with +an old Frenchman who was carrying a basket of fruit +from his little garden to the inn. With all the +courtesy of his country, he offered to Lady Green the +choicest in his little <i>corbeille</i>. He came from Lorraine +very long ago to prospect in the States, almost the +earliest of the pioneers, but he was still strong and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">34</a></span> +active, and he pointed with great satisfaction up to +a white flag planted on a dizzy height above, which +he said he had placed with his own hands. The chief +livery stable keeper is a German named Stegman. The +first ascent of the Dome was made by a young Scotchman +named Anderson, from Montrose; so with Indians, +Americans, Mexicans, Europeans, there is a very +liberal representation of the nations of the world, in +the season, in the valley. Mr. Hutchinson, the Conservator +of the Valley—one with all the enthusiasm +of the American character in everything pertaining +to the country, aggravated in this instance by an +intense admiration for the valley over which he is +appointed to watch—joined us at dinner in the little +inn. Full of information, bubbling over with anecdote +and illustration, and replete with all kinds of knowledge +concentrated upon the one object—the Valley—the +Valley—and nothing but the Valley. He knows its +history since the time it was first discovered, and +its natural history and geological formation, and all +about the Indians who lived there and their traditions. +It so happened that the Commissioners of +the State of California, who are bound to visit the +public domains, were also at the hotel, and so we +had quite an unofficial and ceremonious meeting; and +presently, as we stood in front of the hotel gazing +up on the peaks, lighted up by the stars, and +listening to the thunder of the waterfall, a startling +report burst out on the night, and in another instant +the echoes repeated from rock to rock were crashing +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">35</a></span> +through the Valley with the roar of heaven's artillery. +It was the first gun of a salute ordered by the Commissioners +to be fired in honour of the Duke's arrival. +The effect was very fine, but I doubt whether I did not +feel full of resentment at the outburst, very much as +the owls and night-hawks might have been expected to +feel, if one could judge from their cries. However, +even a salute and echoes must come to an end, and +as we were to get up early to start for the Mirror Lake, +we turned in to bed at an early hour; not, however, to +sleep, because the indefatigable and numerous company +in the public room, off which were our bedrooms, were +in high spirits, and the song and the dance, to the +accompaniment of an invalid piano, for some time +asserted their sway.</p> + +<p>Mr. Hutchinson had the Duke out early, because it +is one of the obligations to see the sun rise, reflected +in the Mirror Lake—if you can. There is no fear of +cloud or rain. In the Mirror Lake is reflected—or +was as we saw it—the precipice at the other side of +the Valley, the bulk of Mount Watkins (so called from +a photographer who has been daring and successful in +his renderings of the Yosemite), and all the surrounding +scenery. Once a friend and I saw a cow on its +back in the air, by the shore of a Highland lake. +The surface was smooth as that of the Mirror before +us now. It was flapping its tail from side to side, +and its forelegs were up in the sky. We could not +make it out at first. There was, in fact, a cow +standing near the water of the loch; and what we saw +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">36</a></span> +was a reflection of the animal, actually stronger and +better defined than the object itself. So it was with +the reflections in the Mirror Lake; but when the sun +rose over the cliff and we looked at the water, the +glare was too dazzling. "It was," as Mr. Wright +remarked, "like the electric light." There were +curious optical effects produced, some being troubled +with purple, others with green or yellow in their eyes, +after a vain attempt to look at the reflection, but that +did not last long.</p> + +<p>We returned to breakfast to make an early start for +Union and Glacier Points on ponies. Among the +company at the hotel, introduced by Mr. Hutchinson, +there was a young lady who was well acquainted with +the Valley, and who proved to be a very agreeable +companion in our mountain ride; but it was not long +ere she was candid enough to let it be known that +she did not visit the Yosemite out of love of the picturesque +and beautiful, but that she was interested in +the sale of photographs of the Valley, and was, in +fact, a very persuasive and efficient agent of a firm +in San Francisco, who had thus established an outlying +picket of great activity and vigilance; and I am sure +we all hope she may always be as successful with the +visitors as she was with us. Of what we saw from the +Glacier Point I must leave others to write or speak. +It is reached by a zigzag on the mountain-side—a +peculium of the maker, and all the "trails," as they are +called, in the valley are the property of individuals or +firms who are paid by tariff, and we heard "Eleven +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">37</a></span> +gone up before—Duke Sutherland, Lady Green, Sir +Green, Mr. Wright, Mr. Russell, Mr. Jerome coming! +Sixteen coming up behind!" On the plateau behind +the cliffs, from which you look down on the Valley and +at the snowfields on the mountain ranges opposite, +there is a log house and shanty, and there we had +a mountain meal ere we began the descent.</p> + +<p>Nothing in the way of riding is more disagreeable +than going down a very sharp mountain-side on a +pony not, for all you know, very sure-footed, and so +instead of riding, I resolved to walk, now and then +taking a short cut, to the great discomfiture of feet +and boots, although it is three thousand feet to the +bottom, and make the best of my way and the +most of the road, which is very fair, down the zig zags. +I reached the plain thoroughly hot and tired, +and bathed in perspiration, in fifty-seven minutes. +The horsekeeper, who came down with the rest of +the party, seemed to have been affected by the +rarity of the atmosphere or something else up at the +mountain hostelry, for he insisted on it that I had +ridden down, and demanded his horse. "What the +thunder, Russell, have you done with my horse?" he +asked again and again. Satisfied for the time by my +assurances that I had not ridden at all, he went off, and +then, thinking over the matter, came back again to +repeat his question, till I told him I would not answer +it any more. He was an amusing fellow in his way, +and affable. He called the Duke "Sutherland," now +and then putting Mr. before it. As he was watering +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">38</a></span> +his horses, he said: "Here, Mister Sutherland, lay +hold of the bucket, will you, whilst I take a turn at +this one." And the Duke did so with alacrity. It was +a day of incessant activity. No sooner had the mountain +party come down than they were off again to drive +through the Valley. The rest of our party had already +executed masterly investigations at the foot of all the +waterfalls; admired the Bridal Veil and the Widow's +Tear, as one cascade is satirically termed, "because," +says the guide, "it dries up in six months;" had +driven and ridden everywhere and seen everything, +and we had to do the same; but it would need a week +of conscientious work to exploit the Valley thoroughly. +At half-past 7, the dinner hour, the little inn was +swarming with people; the stage had arrived with +fresh contingents. Every place was full, and what +with the clatter of knives and forks, the clamour of +waiters, the tumult of voices laughing and talking, it +was scarcely possible to conceive that a few short years +ago this valley was in the exclusive possession of the +Indian and the wild beast. There is now, however, a +great conflict of interests, and Mammon is holding his +revels in the Valley. The State has voted a certain +sum of money, twenty-five thousand dollars, I think, to +buy up the interests of the trail-makers; that is, those +who struck out and made paths to the various objects +of attraction; but no success has yet been attained +in the negotiations, and, indeed, I should think it +a very bad investment for most of them to accept +their share of such a sum. Macaulay, for example, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">39</a></span> +who made the path up to the point from which we +descended to-day, must make many hundreds of dollars +in the height of the season, as he charges so much a +visitor, and, besides, has a restaurant where they take +their meals at the top.</p> + +<p>Next day (June 5th) we left the Yosemite with the +satisfactory assurance that we had made the most of +our time, though we could not believe we had done it +justice. There were some small "nuages" on the face +of our "Mirror Lake," caused by changes in the mode +of conveyance; but we found six horses and one of the +coaches of the country were better than four horses +and two carriages of less capacity. Yosemite, I may +tell my readers, means "Grizzly Bear" (it may be +"Great Grizzly Bear"); but we only heard of one +having been thereabouts for a long time, and I believe +it was thoroughly tamed. After a glorious day in +the woods, clambering up the steep from the Valley, +and then on by the road—the only one—to Clarke's, +halted there for the night, when we returned from a +ceremonious visit to the "Big Trees." We had a most +delightful ride from Bruce's, and a hard canter back +through the woods on capital ponies, full of life and +action, and very sure-footed, but rather inclined to +have their own way, which was not always that of the +rider. We turned into bed at Bruce's, quite delighted +with our expedition, and rather anxious to see the +road we had traversed in the dark by the garish light +of day. Every traveller's tale, and every guide-book of +recent date relating to this part of the world, has a full +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">40</a></span> +account of the dimensions, number, appearance, and +condition of these wonders of the world. They are either +prostrate, mutilated, or decaying; not one has survived +the stormy life he must have led for some 3000 years—a +few hundreds more or less do not signify. Those +which remain upright are scarred by fire and lightning, +and drop their monster arms, hung with ragged foliage +and sheets of bright moss, mournfully over the ground +where their trunks will repose in time to come. +I cannot conceive any object of the kind so magnificent +as one of those Washingtonias in the full vigour of +mature treehood; but we could only fancy what it +must have been like by measuring the stems, for there +was not anywhere in the forest a tree to be seen which +had not suffered. The best way to visit the scene—for +it may well be called so—is to strike out from the +road on the way to the Yosemite before the halt at +Bruce's; but the hotel-keepers and stage-drivers will +persuade the stranger, if they can, to defer the +excursion till his return from the Valley, so as to make +a half-day more out of him.</p> + +<p><i>June 6th.</i>—All up at 5 o'clock, and off soon after +6 <span class="s08">A.M.</span> The first stage, eleven miles, we did in two +hours and ten minutes—a very pretty road; the +second stage, eight miles, in forty-four minutes. The +ravages made by fires are most deplorable. We had +passed through this great forest track in the dark, but +now seen in the morning light, the trunks of magnificent +trees rotting on the ground, or standing upright +with lifeless arms, consumed at the base, were visible +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">41</a></span> +everywhere. It is difficult to find out the exact truth +about the cause of these fires. Some few people said +"it was the Indians," but the weight of testimony attributes +them to the shepherds, who for the most trifling +purposes kindle a great fire. In some of the large +trees they have hollowed out regular chambers, and of +course the tree dies. Such waste of timber! For +mile after mile we passed scenes of desolation which +ere long those who allowed them will have cause to +regret. From time to time we encountered on the +road trains of waggons drawn by teams of handsome +mules with bells, and had occasion to admire the +economy of labour exhibited in the management, by +which the driver is enabled to work a powerful break +with one hand whilst he drives with the other. The +next stage, of fourteen miles, was over an exceedingly +bad road; but the horses were good, and we rattled +along at a capital speed down towards the plain. Once +the quick-eyed driver, pulling up suddenly, said, "See +that rattle?" leaped down and made towards the +bush; and as we followed him, sure enough we heard +distinctly the noise of the snake, which he had intercepted +on its way to a rabbit hole. It took refuge in +a clump of bushes with gnarled roots, and coiled itself +round one of the branches; but by a course of judicious +and rather nervous poking it was driven from its +vantage ground, and trying to escape was killed by +the driver with a blow of his whip, followed by a good +many unnecessary strokes from the rest of the party. +It was over three feet long, and had just been making +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">42</a></span> +an evening meal upon a rabbit, which it had left +where we had startled it; and it was evident from its +swollen appearance that it had been for some time +engaged in the warren close at hand.</p> + +<p>At 10.20 we reached Fresno, which is what the +Americans call "quite a place," containing not only an +hotel, a restaurant, and a store, but a shop where +photographs were exhibited. The <i>chef-d'œuvre</i>, a +portrait of a Spanish lady 140 years of age, living at +Los Angeles, did not, however, commend itself to our +taste. We halted at Coarse Gold at 11.40, and left at +12.35. Mr. Jerry Loghlan—who excused himself for +not working on the ground that "there was no use +in it, as there was nothing to be had," the mines being +worked "out"—whose acquaintance we had made on +the way up, a huge, broad-shouldered <i>vaurien</i>, was still +hanging about with his specimens of quartz, gold, and +rattlesnakes' tails, and a black eye recently acquired +in battle.</p> + +<p>After a long, hot, and dusty drive, it was with +no small gratification we made out on the flat the +houses of Madera, and after a time the carriages of the +special train. The air is so bright and pure that +the distances are very deceptive, and it was nearly +5 o'clock <span class="s08">P.M.</span> before we reached the station, which +had been visible for more than an hour previously. +It was pleasant news to hear that the little German +barber at the way-side had got baths all ready. In +the rear of his shop there was a row of apartments, +each provided with a clean zinc bath, hot and cold +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">43</a></span> +water to turn on at discretion, and an abundance of +towels. This in the centre of a waste seemed very +creditable to the civilisation of the people. I should +like to know in what part of Europe you would get +similar comfort under similar circumstances. I am +afraid there are many parts of the British Islands +where a traveller would demand such a luxury in vain. +And the barber was there to shave those who needed +it, and to give you all the news of the day if you +wanted it. He was a Prussian, and he grinned from +ear to ear as, in reply to my question whether he +had served, he said: "Serve, indeed! Not I. I came +away and escaped from all that nonsense. There is +not a king or an emperor or a prince that I would +fight for. Why should I?" "But," said I, "you +would have to fight for the Republic here if it were in +danger; and that would not be fighting for your +fatherland." "Yes," said he, "it would, for this is +my fatherland now. But I do not want to fight for +it either if I can help it. Fighting is nonsense."</p> + +<p>Our excellent stewards received us, if not with open +arms, with smiling faces. The carriages were trim +and clean and fresh, the tables spread out, and all +kinds of dainties provided for the evening meal. We +rested quietly for the night in the siding at Madera, +and got under weigh at 5 o'clock on the morning of +June 7th, the train being timed so as to reach San +Francisco at 12.30. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">44</a></span></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER III.<br /> +SAN FRANCISCO.</h2> + +<p class="chapsum"> +The Palace Hotel—General McDowell—Palo-Alto—The "Hoodlums"—The +Real Sir Roger—Exiles in the Far West—The +Chinese Population—For and Against them—The Sand Lot—Fast +Trotters—The Sea Lions—The Diamond Palace—The +Coloured Population—"Eastward Ho!" +</p> + +<p>The British Consul, Mr. Booker, who has been +watching over the interests of the Queen's subjects +for some thirty years here, and who is an institution +by himself, met the train at a place called, I think, +Porta Costa, and welcomed the Duke and his friends. +There had been for some days an infusion of the +Chinaman in the general element of life along the +line, but here it became concentrated, and then ceased +to attract much attention. As the train approached +the wide expanse of muddy water from the Sacramento, +which charges down with impetuous volume, +and colours the bay with its turbid stream, we could +form an idea of some of the advantages in the expanse +of navigable river, that had, however, lain long without +appreciation but for the bright red gold possessed +by San Francisco. The bay is animated; white canvassed +craft stud its waters, and the smoke of steamers +pollutes the clear, bracing air. Italian fishermen are +busy with line and net, and flights of ducks and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">45</a></span> +squadrons of gulls and cormorants show that the +waters are well stocked. It was too late in the year +to see the country in the full affluence of its wealth +of fruit and crops, of hay and corn, and the hillsides +and fields are now disappointingly brown. Presently +we arrived at Oakland, where the train was run out +on a pier 3500 yards long, to the steam ferry-boat +which was to convey us across to San Francisco. The +ferry-boat was crowded, for Oakland is a city of some +50,000 people; and of course it had once on a time, +not very remote, only a few sheds and insignificant +houses. From this side of the bay the city of the +Golden Gate, some miles away, was now visible in all +its pride of place—pride but not beauty, now at least—for +the city presents no great attraction to the +eye. The streets, running in parallel lines at right +angles to the quay right up the sandy hillside, +look like the ribs of some stranded monster, "lank +and lean and brown." The most prominent object is +the hotel to which we are going, which towers far +over the general level of house-top, steeple, and factory-chimney.</p> + +<p>There is a little pamphlet, crammed with statistics +and with an array of figures and superlatives enough to +daze one, given to the guests of the Palace Hotel; but +those who are in that happy category scarcely need the +information, and those who are not could not derive +any idea of the building from the repetition of the +ciphers which are to be found in the guide-book. +The drawing on the outside affords the best notion of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">46</a></span> +the size, but only actual purview can enable one to +judge of the excellent arrangements, the service, the +table. For once the American idol "Immensity" is +not overlaid. "'Tis blinding bright—'tis blazing +white! O Vulcan! what a glow!" Electric lights +flooding the court with brightness beyond description. +And what a court! Sweetness and light indeed! +In the great quadrangle, 144 feet by 84, there are +fountains playing, groups of statuary, and exotic plants, +and, tier after tier, rise the pillared terraces outside +the seven storeys of which the main building consists, +painted a lustrous white, shining like purest Parian. +There are 755 rooms, abounding in conveniences, +and comfortably luxurious. Each is provided with +high-pressure hot and cold water, and there is an +elaborate system of ventilation, alarms, conductors, +pneumatic tubes, telephones, and "annunciators" for +fire, letters, servants, &c. The beds are excellent; the +furniture admirable; and this vast structure, 120 feet +high, 275 feet broad, and 350 feet deep, is not only fire, +but—listen—"earthquake proof"; so says the bill of +fare, and so says ex-Senator W. Sharon, the proprietor. +I have not the least desire to test the truth of the averment, +but if I must be in a hotel when an earthquake +visits the city in which I am, let me be in the Palace, +San Francisco. A man may live here in the enjoyment +of a pretty continuous series of meals and one of the +best bedrooms for four dollars a day, and there is a +lower tariff of bed and board at three dollars a day.</p> + +<p><i>June 8th.</i>—Our first day was rendered exceedingly +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">47</a></span> +pleasant by the kindness of General McDowell. The +weather did its very best to prevent our enjoying it, and +was signally defeated. San Francisco is perhaps the +windiest city in the world, and at this time of year there +is almost always a storm in the harbour, and a steady, +powerful, and somewhat chilly blast, setting in a little +before noon, and lasting throughout the day until +nearly sundown, up the streets. The General's aide-de-camps +came over early to the hotel, in full uniform, +in honour of Major-General Green, but General +McDowell appeared in mufti, which eased us down +a little. A powerful steamer, the "<i>General Macpherson</i>," +was prepared for the party, which was +swollen by a considerable number of gentlemen invited +by our host to meet the Duke, and the gentlemen +from Topeka, who were included in the invitation. +The excursion afforded a favourable opportunity of +inspecting the city defences. From Alcatraz Fort, +Point and Presidio Island batteries, which would not +be considered very formidable as far as armament is +concerned, although their position affords great advantages +for torpedo defence, salutes were fired in +honour of Sir Henry Green. But in the case of +some of us the sight was marred by the rising sea, +which increased to an inconvenient height as the +steamer reached the Seal Rocks, close to the entrance +to the bay. Of the seals I shall give an account +farther on. They did not seem to mind the steamer +very much until she blew her whistle, when many of +them splashed into the sea. At the termination +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">48</a></span> +of the trip, which lasted some four hours, General +McDowell entertained the party at his official quarters, +which are beautifully situated on a bluff overhanging +the water of the bay.</p> + +<p><i>June 9th.</i>—We spent, in some respects, an abortive +and deceitful day; not, indeed, that there was anything +disappointing about our entertainment at Belmont, +under the auspices of ex-Senator Sharon; but that +we started full of enterprise, and intent upon inspecting +the great works of the Spring Valley Reservoir, and of +making an excursion through what was described as a +very beautiful county whence is brought the water +supply of the great city in which we were sojourning. +However, though we were baulked in the object of our +expedition, the day passed, and not in the least degree +unpleasantly, and instead of going to the Lakes we +drove about the neighbourhood of Belmont, and visited +several country seats.</p> + +<p>No one who visits San Francisco should omit taking +an early opportunity of going to Palo-Alto to inspect +the stock of General Stanford's thorough-breds, and the +breeding establishment, which as a sample of perfect +order and management cannot be surpassed. I cannot +answer for the figures, but I was informed that the +owner spends 25,000<i>l.</i> a year upon the maintenance of +his stud and stables, and that he has not as yet sold a +colt or filly, or parted with a single animal; sires, +mares, and young brood now amounting to about 700 +head. They are beautifully housed in detached stables +fitted up with every convenience that a horse of the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">49</a></span> +highest pedigree and most luxurious taste can desire. +I was particularly struck with the perfect silence +which prevailed throughout the stables. No shouts to +"stand over there," and none of that "——" (groom's +expletive) which is so common in our country. And +partly owing perhaps to that mode of treatment, and to +gentleness in handling, all the horses without exception +seemed tractable and sweet-tempered. High-bred +stallions stood out in the open for our inspection, and +allowed themselves to be rubbed and felt without even +laying down their ears or raising a hind-leg from the +ground. In reply to a question respecting a remarkably +beautiful animal, which seemed to have a little +more fire in him, the head groom said "You may walk +under his belly if you like," and then and there he told +one of the grooms to do so, which the man did, without +attracting any unusual degree of attention from the +animal. Outside one of the large blocks of stables +there is a kind of testing arena, in which we were told +it was the pleasure of General Stanford, when he was +at home, to sit watching the performance of his young +horses. It is an ellipse, like a large circus, bordered +with a hoarding, and in the centre there is a raised +stage for the visitors, on which are revolving chairs. +The riding-master, with an attendant, performing the +functions of the late Mr. Widdicombe, sets the animal +in motion, checking him when he breaks into a gallop. +The speed at which the animal trots the ellipse is +known by the time marked on a chronometer, and the +fact is recorded for the information of the inspectors, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">50</a></span> +who can turn round their chairs and follow the action +of the horse as it trots round the ring.</p> + +<p>The district of the State in which Palo-Alto is +situated boasts of several residences of the Californian +millionaires. One house which we visited, I think +belonging to Mr. Flood, furnished the most ornate and +beautiful examples of woodwork that were ever seen +by any of the party. The house, which was as large +as a good-sized English country mansion, is constructed +of timber of the finest quality, beautifully worked, +painted and varnished; and with moderate care a mansion +of this kind will last, in this climate, a couple of +hundred years, which to the American mind is an +eternity. There were artists from New York, and the +staff of an upholsterer and decorator of great renown +from the Empire City were still busily engaged in the +place as we went through the rooms. The magnificent +halls, reception-rooms, billiard-rooms, library, bedrooms, +all fitted up with extraordinary luxuriousness, +but in a somewhat florid taste, were of wood, the doors +of many of the apartments arresting attention by their +extraordinary beauty and finish. The ceilings decorated +in fresco by Italian artists, and bright windows filled +with stained glass gave an appearance of light and +grace to the whole residence. The kitchen arrangements +were marvels of ingenuity, and one envied the butler +who would have such a pantry as that which was displayed +for our inspection. Some of the pictures which +were ready to be placed on the walls were remarkable, +however, only for the richness of their frames; and, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">51</a></span> +indeed, we heard that the excellent proprietor was not +a man of very cultivated taste; a child of fortune, in +the prime of life and of money-making, spending a +portion of his enormous wealth with an easy hand, but +destitute of what is called book-learning, and leaving +to some future generation the cultivation of the graces +and the acquirement of accomplishments which the +circumstances of his early life had denied him to effect.</p> + +<p>It had been arranged that we should return to San +Francisco to dinner, but Senator Sharon had in his +secret heart resolved that we should do nothing of the +kind, or at least, that if we did so, it should only be +after we had partaken of such a feast at Belmont as +would very much indispose us to test the capabilities +of the <i>chef</i> of the Palace Hotel. From Palo-Alto accordingly +we were driven to the charming country house, +some miles away, of the ex-senator of Oregon, and we +were regaled there, after some delay, at a very elaborate +<i>déjeûner</i>, sent out from San Francisco. It was nigh +8 o'clock ere we got back to the city; and the night +ended by what might well be called "an excursion" +to the Baldwin Theatre, which was at the time the +most attractive of the places of entertainment of that +sort open in the city. As some of us were walking +back, after the play was over, with an American friend, +talking of the "hoodlums," famous rowdies, who, we +were assured, had been of late days utterly broken up +by the vigilance of the police, our attention was attracted +to a number of lads smoking at the corner of the street. +Our friend said "Hoodlums broken up! There they +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">52</a></span> +are—don't you believe it. That's a lot of them, and +if you were alone you might find out very unpleasantly +that there are plenty of them."</p> + +<p>The San Francisco journalists possess astonishing +powers of imagination. I rubbed my eyes when I read +that I had described "with eloquence the similarity +between a marsh at San Bruno and a patch of jungle +in the north-west of Scinde, where I had the felicity +of spending three weeks with General Green while +the natives were arranging a plan to capture the +party and cut our throats." I never was in the north-west +of Scinde in my life, and, although I had the +pleasure of passing a longer time in his company in +the United States, and of being on the same plateau +before Sebastopol when he was there, for a still longer +period, many years before, I never spent three weeks +there with General Green. The Duke was described +as "professing, but showing, little enthusiasm." However, +these matters are of very slight interest or +importance; only one wonders how many of the readers +of this sort of literary work believe in it. One of our +party has, according to a local paper, become a clergyman, +and now rejoices in the style and title of "the +Bishop," by which he is universally addressed by the +party.</p> + +<p>While in the train, on our way to Belmont, I had +the pleasure of being introduced to a gentleman +who, although a lawyer in very large practice, is +General of the State Volunteers; and in the course +of conversation, I heard that he had papers containing +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">53</a></span> +the statement of a gentleman who had visited, and +which convinced him that the real Roger Tichborne +was living not very far from San Francisco. General +Barnes, whose name and character stand high in the +city of the Golden Gate, and whom I found to be a +gentleman of great intelligence, seemed perfectly +satisfied by the story told by this new "claimant"; +but what he mentioned to me did not at all tend +to create in my mind any notion that he was not an +impostor, and especially were my doubts confirmed by +the quotations which General Barnes made from some +of the narrative, in which there was a ridiculous jumble +of French and English, in order to justify, apparently, +the stress placed by the "claimant" in his story on +that part of his life which was passed in France. He +spoke of his uncle as "mon oncle," and of Thursday as +"Jeudi," and so on. However, General Barnes appeared +to be so impressed by the truthfulness of the man's +bearing, and by the full details he gave him at an +audience in which he supplied the facts for the +consecutive narrative which I was promised, that I +expressed a desire to read it. General Barnes subsequently +sent me a long written paper containing the +heads of the claimant's story, a perusal of which +strengthened the conviction I had previously entertained. +I only mention this circumstance because +there was a report spread throughout the Press, by the +agency of one of the great telegraphic associations +which furnish the American public with intelligence, +that the Duke of Sutherland and myself had interviewed +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">54</a></span> +the real Roger Tichborne at San Francisco, and +had satisfied ourselves that he was the man; and +innumerable "headings" were invented for this supposed +interview, of which I was soon made aware on +my return westward in every newspaper that I read. +I promptly denied the statement that the Duke or +myself had seen the new claimant, and although the +denial appeared in print I was exasperated day after +day by being asked questions afterwards with regard +to this supposed conversation with Tichborne at San +Francisco, and by inquiries as to my real impression; +so it would appear that no one had seen or paid any +attention to the refutation of the story which had +brought down on my devoted head communications +from friends of other Tichbornes, of whom there are +several living, some in poverty and others in comparative +affluence, in various cities and districts of the United +States. I had further the mortification of seeing it +stated in print that I had used disparaging words in +alluding to the credulity of General Barnes, which was +an entirely baseless fabrication. With all the extraordinary +keenness of the American mind generally, +there is associated with it a considerable amount of the +Anglo-Saxon quality which is termed "gullibility," +and the land swarms with impostors who make a living +out of the easy faith of the population. I do not speak +merely of spiritualists, quacks, and professors of peculiar +religions or medical dogmas, nor of the preachers +of eccentric forms of faith or unbelief, but of the +mass of persons who contrive to get an existence by +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">55</a></span> +representing that they are "someone else." Although +their tricks are well known, the trade still flourishes. +They are always the "sons of peers," who have got +into disgrace with their families, but who will eventually +be owners of castles of historic fame and of enormous +estates; "distinguished soldiers"; "Maids of Honour +to the Queen," who for some unknown reasons are +living in small out-of-the-way villages in the West; +or political conspirators who have played a great part +on some distinguished stage and have saved themselves +from the consequences of defeated enterprize by +taking refuge in the States. And then there are +hordes of persons who are known by the title of "confidence +men," who travel about on the trains or in the +steamers, looking out for victims, or lounging about +the bars and saloons, waiting for their prey in the shape +of some facile and easy-eared stranger, who in consideration +of their merits and distress shall give them +temporary assistance. Sometimes, doubtless, there are +cases of very real suffering, sorrow, and poverty, to +which exile in the United States affords a melancholy +refuge. I was obliged to hear in one great city of a +gallant soldier who, reduced to poverty by no fault of +his own, had quitted England and given up the +society of his friends, and lived in a small suburb of +a town on the coast of the Pacific, his secret known +only to one or two officials, shunning all contact with +his countrymen and evading as far as possible all +inquiries of his friends. In San Francisco, where +there is a poor-house open to strangers and to native-born +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">56</a></span> +Americans alike, there are, I am told, to be met +with extraordinary exemplifications of the "downs" +of fortune. Adventurous and daring spirits, and pioneers +of civilisation, at one time probably possessed +of wealth which was wasted in dissipation, or lost in +unfortunate speculations, are there, talking of the days +that are gone, in all languages of the world, and awaiting +their end; while others who started with them in +the same race are building their palaces or revelling in +the enjoyment of wealth, compared to which our +greatest fortunes are, if figures can be trusted, a mere +bagatelle. How rapidly some of these fortunes can be +made was illustrated by numerous stories connected +with some of the richest men in California. I was told +by an eminent tradesman of San Francisco that one +day a miner came into his establishment to buy a +watch, which he said must be cheap and good, for he +wanted something he could trust to in the matter of +time, as he was going off with a party on an exploring +expedition after gold. This was in the early time of +the great "booms" in the West. He selected a watch, +for which he paid $40, and departed. The following +day he appeared in the shop and asked to see +the proprietor, and then, producing the watch, he said +he would like to have $30 for it, as he had lost all his +money in a "spree" the night before and must have +something to start with. The jeweller said, "Well, I +will return you what you gave me for the watch, as it +has suffered no harm, and you shall have your $40 +back again." The man went away exceedingly rejoiced, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">57</a></span> +and the incident was forgotten. Some eighteen months +afterwards a man came to the establishment, and looking +at rings, gold chains, and jewellery of the most +costly character, and asking for the best of everything +that they had got, gave orders which occasioned the +attendant to have some doubts as to his sanity, or +certainly as to the means he had of paying the amount, +which was rapidly running up to tens of thousands of +dollars. So he sought out his principal. The strange +customer said, "I suppose you don't know me?" +which was admitted to be the case. He went on buying +all the same, making the remark, "You need not +be uneasy about the money, for So-and-so (the bankers) +will tell you I am all right, and when you send the +things home you shall be paid. I am Joe Smith, from +whom some time ago you took a watch he bought from +you when he came to your store, and gave him the +full value for it when he was in want of money," and +so departed, having shown his gratitude by buying +6000<i>l.</i> worth of jewellery. This worthy miner is now +one of the wealthy pillars of the State.</p> + +<p>The Chinese quarter of San Francisco has been +described, I will not say <i>ad nauseam</i>, but as often +as any book has been written which contains an account +of a visit to the city of the Golden Gate. Of +course we went there, and saw all that was to be seen +under the best possible auspices, for Mr. Bee, whom +I have already mentioned, was our guide and companion, +assisted by an exceedingly intelligent officer +of the police force; and on the occasion of our second +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">58</a></span> +visit, when we went to the theatre, we had the advantage +of being under the protection of the gentleman +who represents law and order, on behalf of the +municipality, in connection with the Chinese population +and the arrangements for theatrical performances.</p> + +<p>The inspection of the dreadful den in which the +opium-smokers were to be seen suggested to my mind +a train of thought in connection with the traffic which +I would not willingly have communicated to my +American friends. It will seem incredible some day +to the awakened conscience of the nation that we +should have ever sanctioned such a frightful crime +as the opium traffic. "It only poisons about two +millions of people," is the excuse, "and brings in one-sixth +of the whole revenue of India." If ever it were +justifiable to utter the exclamation "Perish India!" +it would be, I believe, in regard to that disgraceful +source of revenue, and the necessity that is imposed +upon us, as it is alleged, to raise it, in order to maintain +the government of our Indian empire. Here in +San Francisco the State has nothing to do with the +sale of the poison, and it is very questionable whether +the police regulations should not be applied to it, just +as they are to persons who have tried to commit +suicide, or to the inebriates in public-houses, or to +places where intemperance is carried on to an extent +injurious to the public peace. Death is the inevitable +result of continued indulgence in opium-smoking, +although it is true that in some cases the victim +lingers on a few years, utterly indifferent to all the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">59</a></span> +business of life except the one—the means of supplying +himself with his only source of enjoyment. I was +in one of the shops where they sell the drug, and was +much struck by the cadaverous, sunken faces of the +unfortunate customers, with bright dreamy eyes, +trembling limbs, and wasted bodies, who came in to +buy it. It is cheap enough, in all conscience, as a +very small quantity suffices to produce what is called +"the desired effect"; but for its bulk it is exceedingly +dear, and indulgence in it must consume a +considerable amount of the earnings of the best-paid +artisans when they are no longer able to earn sufficient +to keep them with a full supply. "Then," as our informant +says, "they will commit any crime to get it."</p> + +<p>The general impression made upon me by the appearance +of the Chinese population was most favourable. +I do not now speak of what one might see in +going through the haunts where the police regulations +assign exclusive possession to certain classes +of the population, which, sooth to say, seemed numerous +enough; I refer to the business quarters, and to +the crowds of cleanly, intelligent, well-behaved people +of both sexes in the streets. General McDowell, and +many other persons, for whose opinion the greatest +respect must be entertained, look with apprehension +on the effect of the Chinese immigration, and +have, indeed, declared that it will destroy the Union +if it be not checked; and these apprehensions are +based upon the possibility that in time millions on +millions of the swarming population of China will +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">60</a></span> +inundate the United States, gradually overrun town +after town, usurping all the fields of labour, and beating +down the white man to the greatest misery by +competition in every branch of trade, industry, and +labour. This party has successfully, I believe, impressed +its views upon a considerable number of +senators and representatives in the Eastern States, +who can exercise pressure on the Supreme Government; +and the treaty recently signed between the +Republic and China contains provisions which enable +the authorities at the western seaports to exercise +considerable control over the current of emigration. +But, on the other hand, it is alleged that the fears +which are expressed of a rapidly increasing exodus of +Chinese from China, and an anabasis into the United +States, are purely imaginary—in fact, unreal and pretentious. +The pro-Chinese party allege that the +emigration comes from only one port in one province, +and that you may go all over the West, and ask any +Chinaman or Chinawoman where he or she comes +from, and you are met with the invariable answer, +from the one port. The friends of the Chinese—arguing, +moreover, that the State at large is benefited enormously +by the accession to its resources from the Celestial +Empire, and that the labour was attacked, not +because it was cheap, but because it was good; that it +is now indispensable, for without Chinamen and Chinawomen +it would be almost impossible to carry on the +ordinary life of these cities—allege that the agitation +which has been so violent in San Francisco is mainly +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">61</a></span> +encouraged by those who want to secure the Irish vote. +Colonel Bee represents these views very strongly. He +argues that Canton, not larger than the State of New +Hampshire, is the sole source of emigration. He insists +on it that there are no more than 100,000 Chinese in +the whole of the Union, and that for the last ten years +the emigrants have not sufficed to fill the places of +those who had gone home with money, never intending +to return, or who had died. He maintains, indeed, that +the Chinese are decreasing rather than otherwise; and +with all the power of figures, which he has at his +fingers' ends as Consul, demonstrates that a very large +proportion of the Chinese who are entered as arriving +at San Francisco and other parts are the same men and +women as those who came some years previously and +went back to their native country, returning to gain +more dollars.</p> + +<p>The principal enemies of the Chinese are the Irish, +who, having monopolised the whole of the work of +bricklayers, plasterers, carters, porters, and general +labourers until their arrival, have been forced to +reduce their rates of labour steadily by the competition +of the Chinaman.</p> + +<p>The part of the population of San Francisco denominated +the Sand lot, and especially those connected with +the political associations of the city, do not by any +means share Colonel Bee's views; but the agitation is +dying out, and the meetings, which were of weekly +occurrence, to excite the people against the Mongolians +have decreased in number, importance, and interest. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">62</a></span> +The directors of public companies, and the contractors +for public works, are all in favour of the Chinese +workman, who is sober, industrious, and orderly; and +although the trade combinations among them are +exceedingly subtle, and their powers of association +for trade purposes remarkable, being moreover the +most ancient in the world, the Chinese in the Western +States have not as yet taken to indulge in the +luxury of strikes. As domestic servants, nurses, and +attendants on children, they appear to be affectionate +and careful; and nothing could be better than the +service of the hotel in which we were lodged, the great +portion of which was carried on by Chinamen and +women.</p> + +<p><i>June 10th.</i>—In the spacious courtyard of the Palace +Hotel, at 7 o'clock this morning, there might have +been observed three well-appointed waggons (as +Americans call the vehicle more appropriately termed +"spider" at the Cape), each with two horses of race, +fast trotters, panting for a spin through the city and +the Park out to the shores of the Pacific. The Duke +and Sir H. Green and Mr. Stephen were driven by Mr. +Howard. Mr. Wright was "personally conducted" +by Mr. ——, and I was put behind a pair of as +handsome chestnuts as could well be seen anywhere, of +which the owner and driver (General Barnes) was very +reasonably proud. The streets of San Francisco, like +those of most of the American cities we have visited, +are atrociously paved; the torture of driving over +boulders is aggravated by the sharp ribs of the tram ways, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">63</a></span> +so that it is not pleasant, if, indeed, it be +possible, to drive rapidly till the limit of municipal +incompetence or fraud be passed. But once out on the +suburbs the chestnuts were invited to step it, and were +bowling along at a good fourteen miles an hour on our +way to the Park, over as good a road as horse or man +ever felt under hoof or foot. The Park not long ago +was a waste of sand, it is now swarded and planted with +shrubs, and luxuriant with flowers. Notices that it +was unlawful to do more than ten miles an hour were +posted up, but the General did not pay strict attention +to them till he came near shady places, where experience +warned him that policemen might be lying +privily in ambush. The pace was quickened till the +waggon seemed to fly through the air rather than +move over the ground. It was the perfection of +travelling on wheels—almost as buoyant as a headlong +gallop. The waggon weighed but 180 lb., the powerful +animals "scarcely felt it more than their tails." +I had a turn at the reins by "kind permission" of the +General. The art of driving trotters needs practice. +You must keep a strong, steady pull on the head, or +they "break." Very soon I had the satisfaction of +making the chestnuts break the law with a vengeance, +and of hearing the General say, "We are just within +the three minutes! not ten seconds inside it!"—that +is, of trotting at the rate of just twenty miles an hour. +Up hill and down hill, and along the flat out of the +Park and over the smooth road, and in half an hour +the Pacific was in sight, and the murmurs of the surf +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">64</a></span> +rose above the rhythm of the regular beat of the eight +hoofs in front of us! Cliff House was in view. Seal +Rocks, in their setting of foam, lay before us, and in +forty minutes from the time we left the hotel, despite +policemen, miles of bad pavements, and tramways, we +drew up at the steps of Cliff House, nine miles from +San Francisco, and the trotters had not turned a hair. +From the verandah at the sea front of the hotel, we +enjoyed for half an hour a spectacle which is, as far as +I know, unique. At the distance of 500 or 600 yards +from the beach at our feet there is a group of four +very rugged rocks, with serrated edges and tops, the +sides broken here and there into ledges and small platforms. +They are too small to be called islands, the +largest being, as it seemed, not 100 yards wide. The +slopes are not, I think, so steep as they looked on +the land side. On the two largest of these rocks there +were herds of sea-lions, so close that we could see, +through very poor opera-glasses, with the greatest ease, +their eyes, teeth, and whiskers, as they reposed or played +with each other. Some had clambered to the highest +ledges, escalading the sides by a series of painful-looking +struggles with their flappers; others were fast +asleep in cosy nooks; some were tossing their heads +about and making believe to bite each other in sport; +the younger ones were bent on teasing their fathers +and mothers by uncouth gambols. As they played or +moved they uttered cries between a bark and a roar; +now and then the noise was like that of a pack of +hounds in full cry, and the effect of the strange sound +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">65</a></span> +mingling with the tumult of the surf and the beat of +the waves was most singular and "eldrich." Those +fresh from the sea were shining black, but became +lighter as they dried. The older ones were not darker +than cinnamon bears or unwashed sheep. As many of +those on the rocks had not long left the water the +general effect of the herd put one in mind of a gathering +of enormous slugs on cabbages—not a poetic simile, +but a just one, I think. Occasionally a sea-lion, hungry +or bored by his companions, threw himself with a +splash into the wave, and it was interesting to watch +the rapidity and actual grace of his movements in the +sea compared with his laborious efforts on the land. +One could see them quite clearly through the body of +the heavy billows; occasionally a bold one would glide +close on shore and fish in the edge of the surf, raising +his head and shoulders clear above the surface, and +then diving out of sight. They were cruising about +in every direction. You remember the sea-lion at the +Zoo, of which the French attendant was so fond? +Well, the creatures below and before us were most of +them double the size of that fellow, and several exceeded +the largest ox in size. The monsters are quite +well known; one is named Ben Butler, "because he +is such a great beast." They were formerly protected +by law, but some one thought they killed too many +fish, and the law was repealed. They are safe all the +same, for there is a law against the discharge of firearms +within 300 yards of an inhabited dwelling; Cliff +House throws its ægis over the sea-lions in that wise; +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">66</a></span> +but the quantity of fish which must be devoured by +these mountainous phocæ (an they be so) daily would +maintain a decently-sized city. The hide furnishes the +"sealskin" used to cover trunks, and the body yields +oil fat, and the tusks are close, white, and hard. These +sea-lions breed far away up north, and come with their +young regularly every year to the same resorts; but +incessant war is waged upon them by the sealers and +whalers, so that the chances are against the beast +where he is not protected by law, and their numbers +do not increase. Altogether, the spectacle was one +never to be forgotten. A hotel, with oysters awaiting +us for a forebreakfast refection in the background, +waggons from Michigan, horses from Kentucky, all the +apparatus of civilised life close at hand, the Pacific +and its strange wild denizens at our feet! "Let us +turn in and have an oyster." "What! oysters in +June?" "Yes, and good ones too." In this favoured +land oysters are in season all the year round. There are +no oysters found on the coast, I am told, and they will +not breed. They are brought all the way from the +Atlantic coast when they are mere oysterlets, and they +are laid down in the Pacific, where they grow fat and +large, but are not "crossed in love," and therefore are +fit to be eaten from January to January. They are +about the size of a spring chicken, and need some +courage on the part of an assailant who desires to +dispose of them as he would a native.</p> + +<p>This was our last day in the city of the Golden Gate, +and the photographers were masters of the situation; +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">67</a></span> +and there was much <i>débris</i> of sight-seeing to sweep up—visits +to be made, shops to be inspected, among +which I must mention specially the Diamond Palace +of Colonel Andrews, one of the handsomest jeweller's +"stores" in the world, though it is not as large as the +establishments of the principal firms in London, Paris, +Vienna, or as Tiffany's in New York. The distinctive +feature of the interior is the decoration of the paintings +of fair women, on the ceiling and the walls above the +cases, by necklaces, diadems, zones, and other feminine +ornaments of real diamonds, emeralds, rubies, and +pearls. The pictures are the work of an Italian artist +of merit, and the general effect is very striking; but I +doubt whether it is a good way of inducing people to +buy the articles which bedeck the ideal beauties. At +Bradley and Rulofson's we saw photographs of many +of our friends, and had one more proof of the smallness +of the world. Every one we knew seemed to have +visited San Francisco. There we all submitted to +inevitable fate, and left our negatives behind us, but +the Duke was captured by a rival photographic institution, +and had a sitting all to himself.</p> + +<p>The aspect of a crowd in a large American city +differs from that of the passers-by in the street of an +English town, most of all in the appearance of such +a large proportion of coloured people. Here it may be +said, however, that they are colourless, as the prevailing +hue of the foreign population is that of the Chinaman. +In Canada the number of negroes, or of persons +of negro descent, of varying gradations of colour, is +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">68</a></span> +remarkable, considering the circumstances, but they +probably may be accounted for by the emigration in +the olden times of those who were escaping from +slavery, or who went with their masters and employers +into the Dominion. In the cities on the Lakes I was +very much struck by the persons of undoubted African +descent who are to be met with in the streets in great +numbers; and in Chicago there is a quarter nearly +exclusively occupied by them—honest, industrious, +hard-working people seemingly, given to stand about +at the street corners, however, a good deal on Sundays, +and cultivating a bright attire, especially on the +part of the ladies, whose bonnets and shawls were +things to wonder at. There are loafers amongst them, +as there are amongst their betters; but, taking them +all in all, in the Northern, Western, and Atlantic +States, they are a decidedly useful element in the +population, easing the burden of labour to the white +man, and following many occupations, such as those of +waiters, barbers, bricklayers, and labourers in the less +skilled sort of work, for which it would be difficult to +find American substitutes. One peculiarity, which +may be accounted for by some wiser person than +myself, seems to be their recklessness as to what +they put on their heads. Whether it is merely a +compliance with the custom of the white man, which +impels them to cover the highly effective protection +against sun and cold which Nature has given them, or +not; or whether it is that the canons of taste in such +matters have not yet settled down to those accepted by +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">69</a></span> +people in civilised life in the Western world, the male +negro has the most extraordinary indifference as to +the quality and shape of the thing which he calls a +hat or cap, and it would not be easy to find out of the +gutters of some Irish country town anything more +dilapidated, battered, and utterly incoherent than +some of the hats which one may see on the heads of +people of colour, especially down South. Whatever +other virtues they may have, neatness is not amongst +them; for, with all their affectation of finery, their +clothes are generally ill-kept, their houses are unkempt, +and, where they are cultivators of the soil, the +operations are performed in a slovenly manner. The +traditions of the old plantation have descended upon +them, and influence them.</p> + +<p>On my way from Messrs. Donahue and Kelly, the +bankers in Montgomery Street—I believe the former +of these gentlemen has had the privilege of giving +his name to steamers and cities, leastways railway +stations—I saw a party of sailors belonging to the +United States steamer "<i>Rodgers</i>," now about to proceed +in search of the "<i>Jeannette</i>," and I was much +struck by their resemblance to our own bluejackets +in general "cut of the jib," dress, face, and figure. +They were in charge of a smart-looking officer, and +had been paying a farewell visit to the fruit and +vegetable markets—one of the sights of the city. +They were in high good-humour, laughing and chatting +loudly, more than is the wont of Americans, +and I could not but contrast their fine physique with +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">70</a></span> +that of the soldiers we had seen at Sir Henry Green's +parade when General McDowell took us round the +harbour. The detachment at the Fort, consisting of +infantry and artillerymen, and squads of different +regiments, had some weedy veterans in the ranks, +who had lost their setting up and did not look fit +for much work; but the sailors, probably a picked +lot, were good all round.</p> + +<p><i>À propos</i> of Messrs. Donahue and Kelly, the number +of wealthy men in San Francisco of Irish origin or +nationality is remarkable. Millionaires with names of +Milesian prefixes and terminations are phenomenal. +We had intended to return to the East Coast by way +of Utah, and to stay a day or two at Salt Lake City, +but the railroad company did not consider it expedient +to give the party the facilities which had been accorded +in every other instance by the American authorities to +the Duke and his friends. To have gone round Salt +Lake City would have cost a couple of hundred pounds +more for haulage, and we were much more interested +in seeing Leadville and Denver than the City of the +Mormons; the game was not thought to be worth +the candle, and it was resolved that we would go back +as we came, in charge of the representatives of the +Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fé Railroad Company. +It was only one item more in the long list of things +we ought to have seen if we could, and I can safely say +that we had a large share of the common experience of +travellers in regard to the relations between the possible +and the impossible in the course of a journey in a +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">71</a></span> +strange land, where there are for ever cropping up +representations that "you really ought not to leave +without seeing" so and so. The evening of our last day +was passed in the society of General McDowell, Mr. +Morgan, the English Consul, Colonel Bee, and others, +who had done so much to make the visit to San Francisco +all that could be desired, and whose courtesy +and kindness will ever be remembered by every one +of us most gratefully. Like Sir Charles Coldstream, +we "had seen everything, done everything," but, +unlike him, had found there was plenty in it. The +street railway—most ingenious and successful, invaluable +in a hilly city like Lisbon—the Chinese +Theatre, the Joss houses—shops, eating-houses, opium +dens of the Chinese quarter, the clubs, the principal +buildings, the streets, the shops, the markets, the +harbour, the suburbs, and country round about—all +had been inspected, and yet each day we were told +that we were doing positive injustice to ourselves +and to the objects which were perforce neglected. +In the morning there was a levée in the hotel to +bid the Duke good-bye and see the party start on +their return journey. At the very last moment +a gentleman came forward with a proposal to take +us to the North Pole by balloon, but there was not +time to consider it in all its bearings and the offer +was declined with thanks. We started at 10 <span class="s08">A.M.</span>, +and the Duke was attended to the boat and to the +station across the water by a large body of San +Franciscans, who took leave ere the train started. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">72</a></span> +The gentlemen who were with us on the journey +westwards attended the Duke on his way towards +the Eastern States. All day we travelled through +California—"the hot furnace"—which at first, however, +proved to be only very warm, and the coloured +servants had constant supplies of iced compounds to +be drunk for the solace of the homeward bound, and +had laid in a stock of San Franciscan luxuries to +soothe the way. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">73</a></span></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER IV.<br /> +CALIFORNIA TO COLORADO.</h2> + +<p class="chapsum"> +Los Angeles—Mud-geysers—"Billy the Kid"—General Fremont—Manitou, +the Garden of the Gods—Desperadoes—Bob Ingersoll—Denver +City—Leadville—Grand Cañon. +</p> + +<p><i>June 12th.</i>—The train stopped at Los Angeles at six +in the morning, and, drawing up my window-blind, the +first person I saw on the platform was our good friend +Colonel Baker, who had come to meet us, intent on the +good offices which he could render during our stay. +These were exhibited in the form of a beautiful bouquet +for Lady Green, baskets of limes and oranges, and +great bunches of grapes. In this happy valley there +are cares as in the rest of the world. The Colonel +told us he was in the midst of a great litigation +affecting his claim to a large tract of land in which +there are said to exist the richest tin-mines in the +American Continent. Yet why should he care about +his tin-mine? There were rolling acres rich with +corn and fruit, and there were flocks and herds and +vineyards, and a charming home of his own. Nevertheless, +if the want of that tin-mine made him at all +unhappy, I am sure those who were indebted to him, +as we were, for so many kindnesses, will wish his claim +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">74</a></span> +to be triumphantly asserted, and long possession of all +that is to follow.</p> + +<p>I dreaded the passage of the Desert to Yuma; and +indeed the heat was intense. No wonder that with +the thermometer ranging from 100° to 104°, all the +blinds in the car were pulled down, and we sprawled +listlessly on the cushions. Our excellent attendants +put forth all the resources of art in the shape of ice +and preparations of limes and cocktails; but the temperature +would not be baffled. We could just read, +and were aware that we were living, and some of us had +strength enough now and then to execute forays against +flies with napkins to drive them out of the carriages. +How could people live out in the open, and work in +the mines, or pursue any out-of-door employment in +such torrid heat? Nevertheless, there was a marked +distinction between it and the heat to be endured with +the mercury at an equal height in India.</p> + +<p>The speed of the train was very respectable—somewhat +over twenty miles an hour—and at that rate +we ran from San Gorgonio and Banning on to +Cabazon, through a flat plain, dry and burnt up, very +like the desert around Suez, and fringed, like it, with +rocky and rugged hills, save that there was a great +growth of Spanish bayonets and cactuses of all kinds +among the stones and sand, and that snow was to be +seen on all the hill-tops in the distance. For 107 +miles there was no water to be met with going along +this plain; but the mirage, of which I have spoken in +the account of our journey to San Francisco, was +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">75</a></span> +frequent and beautiful; and again I was fascinated by +the sight of lovely lakes embowered in trees, with +stately cities on their shores, changing and shifting +and melting away, only again to assume apparent +substance to cheat the senses.</p> + +<p>Once the train stopped to allow the passengers to +visit the mud-geysers, which were not more than +150 yards on the left of the line, and with commendable +curiosity most of us got out and walked over +the baked earth to the spot. There was no mark +whatever of smoke or vapour to indicate the place; +and it was almost startling to come suddenly upon a +kind of pond of semi-liquid mud, fifty or sixty feet +in diameter, on which huge bubbles, varying in size +from an orange to a hogshead, were continually forming +and bursting. There was a faint sulphurous smell, +and the ground around the liquefied portion of the +surface, where the bubbles were breaking, was hot and +cracked. The conductor said that all attempts to +reach the bottom of the holes through which the +bubbles arose had failed. Two of these geysers were in +active operation, and the plain away to the left of the +rail was said to contain a great number of them. After +all it was very unsatisfactory to see this ebullition +going on without being able to account for it; and, +generally, I think we thought less of each other and of +our information after visiting them, and finding out +that not one of us had any theory on the subject which +would bear either fire or water.</p> + +<p>I do not think I ever saw a sunset more beautiful +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">76</a></span> +than that which marked the close of this day—certainly +not in India or South Africa, nor on the +prairie, for which they make claims of surpassing +beauty in the matter of sunsets. As it died out, I +felt that "thing of beauty" could not "be a joy for +ever," for it was a combination of colour and of form, +including sky and mountain, that it would be impossible +to see again.</p> + +<p>The kindness of which we have had so many +proofs, has followed, accompanied, and preceded us +all unremittingly and unweariedly. A rough with +some Bourbon on board mounted to-day the steps +of the car at a station, and insisted on seeing "this +Duke." When he was told that the object of his +attention was engaged, he said, "This is a land of +liberty (as in his case it was), and he doesn't want a +bodyguard with him!" But the conductor sent him +away about his business without trouble. On the +platform at Benson a few miners asked "the Duke to +come out and show himself." The people at the stations +were generally satisfied with a quiet peep; now and +then an enthusiastic Scotchman claimed a shake hands, +which was always accorded to him. A sleeper placed +across the rails (accounted for by the officers on the +hypothesis that some loafer without a ticket had been +turned off by the conductor, and had put the sleeper in +the way of the train to wreak his vengeance—a thing +which has occurred nearer home) was the only substantial +danger to which we were here exposed.</p> + +<p>The heat (June 13th) was intense. The thermometer +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">77</a></span> +rose to 105 at one o'clock in the day, and it was little +comfort to us to be told that at Deming it had been up +to 110 the day before.</p> + +<p>For some days we have been supping full of horrors, +indeed breakfasting and dining on them, for the +papers contain accounts of the extraordinary homicides +all about this region. Tucson, Benson, Wilcox—all +these places were resounding with the exploits of +"Billy the Kid." Now at Tucson there is, I believe, a +man whose name was once amongst the very foremost +in the United States. Who some twenty years and +more ago had not heard of General Fremont, "the +Pathfinder," the adventurous traveller, the energetic +politician, the dashing soldier? He had gone at the +outbreak of the war to take up the chief command in +the west with all the pomp and circumstance of glorious +war. I was somewhat astonished to find that he was +at Tucson, the governor of the Territory, on a humble +salary, apparently the world-forgetting and the world-forgot, +while "Billy-the-Kid" was perpetrating numberless +atrocities under his nose, and Mr. Pat Garrett +was dressing up his loins with his revolver-belt, and +about to go forth with a chosen band of citizens and +seek the redoubtable William.<a name="FNanchor_A" id="FNanchor_A" href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></p> + +<p>A person who has only seen settled States in +Europe, or the Eastern States of the North American +Continent, cannot form any notion of a territory +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">78</a></span> +which has become a centre of attraction to all the +wild adventurers and daring spirits which society, +in the process of formation, throws out as a sort of +advanced guard. In Arizona, in 1870, according to the +American Almanac, out of a total population of 9658, +2729 could not write and 2690 could not read. Of the +total population, 2491 were foreign born, and 2753 were +natives, the rest being coloured or under ten years of +age. In New Mexico, out of 91,000 people, 48,000 +over ten years of age could not read, and 51,000 whites +over ten years of age could not write. It may be +inferred from such figures what is the general condition +of the labouring classes in these States and Territories. +The inhabitants of these States have doubled in the +last ten years. They are filling up at a rate inconceivably +great—so great, indeed, that American newspapers +are fairly bewildered and American statesmen +appalled by the rush across the Rocky Mountains +and down the rivers, although as yet but a small +proportion of the immense stream of immigrants +has flooded the outlying territories. "At this rate," +exclaims a Western editor, "the old monarchies of +Europe will soon be depopulated." When Mr. Lincoln, +in 1861, addressed his inaugural to the expectant States +he expressed his confident belief that there were children +then born who would live to see the flag of the Union +floating over no less than 100,000,000 of human beings. +The recent census of the United States gives a return +of 51,000,000 of people, but the most eminent statisticians +have arrived at the belief that the progress +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">79</a></span> +and increase of the States will not be at the same +rapid rate as that which marked the history of the +Republic since the cessation of the great civil war. +It may be fairly inferred, however, that at the end +of this century the population of the United States +will greatly exceed that of Russia, or that of any +empire except China and Great Britain, including +Hindostan. The population, on each period of ten +years, has increased at an average of more than 30 +per cent.; in fact, nearer 33 per cent., and the centre +of it has travelled westward at the rate of more than +fifty miles every ten years, till the centre of population +is now eight miles west by south from Cincinnati. +In 1800 the Union extended over only 239,935 square +miles. Its flag now floats over 1,272,239 square miles +of States and over 1,800,000 square miles of Territory +governed by the central power at Washington. "We +cannot think," exclaims a Republican writer, "that +the war of rebellion settled all our troubles and made +us secure in our Republic. This enormous growth +of the practically unknown West reveals to us the +grave dangers that threaten our nation. We meet +there the tremendous influences of alien races and alien +religions." The Americans of New England and of the +Eastern States do not feel anxious on that score, +because their institutions are thoroughly founded, +their character formed, and they trust to the great +power of accomplished facts to assimilate the alien +elements and sustain the fabric of the Republic. The +bugbear of a great Chinese immigration has ceased to +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">80</a></span> +practically influence Californian politics, and it may be +safely assumed that the bulk of the future immigrants +from the Celestial Empire will only come from the same +sources as those which have hitherto supplied the stream. +No wonder, however, that thoughtful Americans—and +there are many who think of the future of their country +as something quite apart from dollars—are filled with +grave anxieties when they see such floods of purely +foreign material, which will in all probability exercise a +preponderating influence over the politics of the Great +Republic, surging into the States. Particularly have +the home missionary clergy, as they are styled, been +struck by the enormous influence which this foreign +immigration has exercised. According to one authority, +the Rev. Mr. Stimson, of Worcester, "it is not a question +of spreading any particular form of Christianity or +of Church government, but a momentous struggle of +American institutions with alien civilisations and religions +for the control of the great Western country. The +problem is not a matter of cleaning door-yards, but of +saving a continent for freedom." The Chinese Question +and the Indian Question are, they think, as nothing compared +with the Irish Question and the German Question. +"The Republic," we are told, "stands on a foundation as +broad as humanity itself," whatever that may mean, +"but its condition of existence is a universal regard for +the interests of all." Often during the course of the +Duke of Sutherland's excursion it was our good fortune +to fall in with men of great political and social knowledge. +The future of the Republic is, in the mind of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">81</a></span> +these men, clouded with uncertainty and doubt. They +are apprehensive of some unknown danger. It may be +corruption of political life leading to want of faith in +free institutions; it may be the rival energies and the +opposing interests which Washington foresaw as likely +to array the East against the West—the Atlantic +States against the inland States, and it is calculated by +some sanguine people that before this century is over +there will be eighteen, or possibly twenty, States +admitted into the Union formed out of the Territories +which are now under the central Government at +Washington. Upon such influences as these alien +immigration may be expected to act with prodigious +power. At a recent meeting in Springfield a clergyman +gave as an illustration of the absolute indifference +of the foreign immigrants to Republican +institutions a conversation he had with a Norwegian +minister in Minneapolis. "There is nothing," said +this gentleman, "in America which we Norwegians +regard as of value except your land and your money. +We do not want to learn English: we do not want to +know the Americans around us; we have certainly no +notion of becoming Americans, but we intend to remain +as we are—Norwegians." The Mormons control Utah. +They boast that they will soon govern five of the most +important territorial regions beyond the Rockies. But +if Utah becomes a State, as she hopes to do, she will +found a Mormon code of laws and institutions beyond +the power of the United States to control. New +Mexico may be considered as a Roman Catholic State +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">82</a></span> +under the control of an excellent archbishop. Of course +all prophecies may be falsified by events, but judging +by the eighty years which have elapsed of the present +century, and from the ratio of increase in that time in +the United States, the most liberal construction may be +placed even upon the bounding estimates of American +politicians and statists. When we look to the Far West +and see, for instance, how Winnipeg has become the centre +of a great network of river navigation, 300 miles in one +direction, 600 miles in another, and that the Mackenzie +River passes for 1200 miles through what is declared to +be the future wheat region of the world, we may easily +comprehend the anxiety with which the patriotic American +is filled lest the future of such a State should fall +into hands antagonistic to the principles in which his +<i>beau idéal</i> of government has been founded and has +prospered.</p> + +<p><i>June 14.</i>—At Lamy, a station named after the good +archbishop of Santa Fé, where we halted for a short +time whilst the passengers of another train were +breakfasting, a citizen came up to me on the platform +and exclaimed, as if he were very much impressed by +the news he was going to give, "If you look in there, +sir, you will see Bob Ingersoll at breakfast!" I asked +whether there was anything very remarkable about +the fact. "Well, sir," he said, "he is Colonel Ingersoll, +of whom you have heard. He is the most remarkable +in-fidel in the United States, and I really think he +believes what he preaches. A good man to look at, +too, and, they say, first-rate in his family." I had a +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">83</a></span> +glance at the believer in unbelief, and saw a very presentable-looking +person, of fine appearance and good +features, busily engaged in making the most of his +time at one of the tables in the refreshment-room. +He was the observed of all observers, and appeared to +like it; and I understood from one of the crowd that +he had just returned from inspecting some mining +ventures in which he was concerned; for, if he does +not believe in the world to come, he is credited with +very strong faith in the excellencies of the possession +of wealth in the world that is. His lectures are attended +by crowded audiences, but, as an astute American +observed, "they won't come to much, for, after all, +people who do not believe anything can never get up a +great enthusiasm. It is in believing something that +the populace has faith."</p> + +<p>Once more our eyes were rejoiced with the sight of +the lovely plains of Las Vegas, wide-spreading fields +decked with flowers and dotted with flocks, bordered +with ranges of softly contoured mountains, the courses +of the water streams indicated by bright vegetation +and by growth of trees of many kinds. From Lamy +(170 miles) there is a gradual rise to Raton, which +we reached at 6.30 in the evening. The appearance +of the region we traverse as the train approaches +the Raton Pass presents a strong contrast to the +desolate country through which we have been passing. +From Raton the train was drawn by two engines +in front and shoved by one behind, and even then +the pace was not very rapid, for the ascent is very +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">84</a></span> +sharp. All the more could we enjoy a very glorious +sunset, as we slowly ascended the mountain. Then +darkness came on rapidly, and we slid down towards +La Junta into the night, and were all fast asleep long +before we arrived there. In the very early morning, on +June 15th, some two hours after midnight, we halted +for a time at Pueblo. At 9 o'clock we had to leave +our beloved Pullman and change the cars, for we were +to take a fresh point of departure, starting from the +Union Depôt upon the Denver and Rio Grande narrow-gauge +railway for Denver, 119 miles distant, and making +an excursion on the way to Manitou, to which we +diverged from Colorado Springs: for to go within reach +of that famous resort and not to see it would have been +a great outrage on all the rules and regulations established +for the observance of travellers. Certes narrow-gauge +railways need an apology. Their <i>raison +d'être</i> is, at the best, that they are better than nothing. +"If you won't have us, you can have nothing else." +And in such a mountainous region as we were about +to visit, the difficulties and expense connected with a +broad-gauge line would have been enormous, if indeed +it could be constructed at all. The narrow-gauge +carriages, with seats to match, with which we were +made acquainted for the first time, were of course +much less commodious and comfortable than those we +had quitted, but far superior to those on the Indian +lines of the same gauge, and Indian engineers had been +over to take a lesson from the Americans for the use of +their carriage-builders. Atchison, Topeka, and Santa +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">85</a></span> +Fé Company and Denver and Rio Grande Company +have been at daggers drawn and pistols cocked—ay, +and fired—and at battles waged, in times gone by; +and now our friends on the former line were, like ourselves, +the guests of the latter, which was represented +by several official gentlemen anxious to do the honours +to the Duke. The scenery becomes grander and wilder +every mile as the special hurries on as well as it can +over the sinuous line, which is piercing a mountain +region savage and sterile, and climbing by the sides of +ravines and creeping upwards in rocky valleys with pine-clad +hill-tops and frowning cliffs above. The engineer +who designed the line is a Scotchman named McMurtrie—or +at least of recent Scotch origin—and he seems +to have a special gift for such aspiring work, and a gradient-compelling +genius not to be baffled by altitudes. +We were mounting towards the snows. Range upon +range of whitened summits and hoary ridges came in +view, all paying homage to the rugged crown of Pike's +Peak, which can be seen from points more than 140 miles +away. The fleecy cloudland which seemed to lie before +us, as we looked away from Pueblo, was resolving itself +into savage alps. And in these passes, which the eye +caught for a moment, there might be El Dorados still +undiscovered, for around us were cities springing out +of the desert. Here the enchanter's wand is the explorer's +pick, and no one could say where the precious +ore might not be awaiting its touch. We were coming +to the Land of Promises. The conversation of our new +friends, among whom were some gentlemen of the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">86</a></span> +press, related mostly to mines, and one of them had, +as we discovered, a very certain investment at the disposal +of the Duke, in the form of a mining-claim, which +was worth, at the lowest computation, twice as much +as he was willing to take for it. There was no reason +to doubt his good faith, but it was felt that it was a +kind of fortune which ought not to pass into the hands +of strangers, and should be reserved for the people of +the country; and I am sure all of the party who had +the pleasure of the owner's acquaintance hope that +he has "made his pile" out of it, and has more than +realised his expectations.</p> + +<p>Colorado Springs, forty-five miles from Pueblo, is +nearly 6000 feet above the level of the sea. The +character of the line to it is best described in the fact +that the average grade per mile is 44·14, the maximum +curvature 6°. There are "no Springs" here, but the +little town, charmingly situated, is a halting-place much +frequented in tourist-time by travellers, and reputed to +be healthful. There are some pleasant houses visible +from the station, at which we descended to take our +places in the carriages provided to take us to Manitou +Springs, five miles away. Mr. Palmer—if General, I +beg his pardon—the President of the Railroad, had +important business to attend to, but he was so well +represented by Mr. Bell, the Vice-President, that no +one regretted his absence, and it cannot be said in his +case <i>les absents ont toujours tort</i>. He is reported to +have made a very large fortune with much ingenuity, +and to have business talents which even in this country +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">87</a></span> +excite admiration. Mr. Bell is an Irish gentleman, a +member of the medical profession, who has a delightful +villa embowered in a garden in the environs of Manitou, +where the Duke and his friends found a charming +interior and an Irish-American welcome, and discovered +that strawberries and cream were almost as good in +Colorado as in Covent Garden. A quaint, odd place, +Manitou—an American Martigny, with Pike's Peak +rising (14,300 feet above the sea) over it in the clear +sky, inspiring regret that we could not make the excursion +to the summit, which is rewarded, we were told, +and I can believe, by one of the grandest views in the +world—the usual service of guides, horses, and mules, +and <i>calèches</i>—a naturalist's store with skins, minerals, +feathers, and stuffed "objects"—detached wooden +houses and villas in small plots of garden—a straggling +street, and large hotels for invalids. But there was the +unusual feature of encampments here and there by the +roadside, and notices forbidding the pitching of tents +within certain limits which were explained by the fact +that the high reputation of the waters and air induces +people to come from great distances for the treatment +of consumption, and diseases of throat and lungs. +Many of them find it cheaper to travel in horse waggons +and pitch their canvas dwellings when they wish to +make a halt, than to take up their quarters at hotels. +Poor people! what pale, hectic cheeks and wasted +forms we saw; little groups picnicking by the sides of +the rivulets along the roads—each with a gnawing +care—anxiety about some dear one's health in the midst +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">88</a></span> +of them. Our driver, an intelligent, chatty lad, was +full of information, and we had to drive the prescribed +road by the wells out to the Ute Pass, a mountain-gorge +wild enough—a small <i>Tête Noire</i>—to points to +which magniloquent names have been given.</p> + +<p>It is not for want of what is called puffing that +Americans neglect the resorts of health of their own +country, and in the States far and wide the beauties +and advantages of Manitou are blazoned forth on the +walls of hotels and in guide-books to all who can read. +I may confess now that, notwithstanding the magnificent +altitude of Pike's Peak, and the eccentric forms +of the rocks in the "Garden of the Gods," I was disappointed +with Manitou. But then the visit was +short, and the day was hot, and the way was long and +dusty, and haply it might be that under different +circumstances Manitou would deserve much warmer +praise. It possesses indeed an abundance of curious +springs, said to be full of health-giving properties; +and in the course of our drive we halted several times +to partake of drinks from various springs, out of one +of which bubbled up very good soda-water, precisely +like Schweppe's best in taste and appearance. +At the large hotel, which put one in mind of the great +establishments of the same sort in Switzerland, the +water served at table to the guests—a sort of pleasant +Apollinaris-tasting beverage—came from a natural +fountain.</p> + +<p>The "cataract" nearly made us angry, and there +was no regret felt when the carriages returned to the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">89</a></span> +hotel, where there was unwonted activity and bustle, +as the "Denver Zouaves" had just descended in a +friendly razzia on it, and were desolating the hearts +and fireside resources of Manitou. The consequences +might have been serious, as it turned out, to unoffending +strangers. Those who needed it turned into the barber's +shop of the hotel to be shaved, and after some delay a +coloured man appeared, who began to try his hand on +me. Fortunately it was not 'prentice, for it was very +unsteady, and I became a little alarmed for my cuticle. +"It will be all right, mister," quoth the barber. "I +never cut any one. But I'm demoralised, dat's a fact, +having to wait on dem Denver Zouaves. Lor a messy +on any enemy dey has! My nerve's all gone to pieces +wid their wantin' everting at once at the dinner!" +The hotel seemed far more clean and comfortable +than the caravanserais in the land of William Tell; +but our stay was short, for we were put under +orders for a sight which has the most inappropriate +name that could be invented—a valley in which the +most extraordinary-looking columns carved out in a +plateau by the agency of water, have been left standing, +detached and in groups, to which the visitor +enters through a cleft in a barrier of rock passing +round the base of a pillar of sandstone as high as +a house. The "Garden of the Gods" contains 500 +acres, and is surrounded by mountains and cliffs. +The sandstone pillars generally taper from the base +upwards to a short distance from the tops, which are +flattened out or surmounted by slabs or blocks of sandstone +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">90</a></span> +of fantastic outline, and they are called by names +derived from fancied likenesses to animals, birds, +and men. The juxtaposition of the most brilliantly +hued, dazzling-red blocks and strata, with masses of +the same material of milky whiteness, gives the impression +that the scene is the work of human hands; +it seems too quaint and artificial for the hand of +Nature, to which alone it is due; and the vegetation +and the trees are in keeping with the character of the +place. A trysting-place for geologists, and their happy +hunting-ground, no doubt. But why "the Garden of +the Gods," I pray?</p> + +<p>From the valley or cup, emerging by another +road, the driver took us to a ravine-like recess, +almost girt in by high wooded mountains, in which +Mr. (General?) Palmer is erecting a mansion of palatial +importance—a picturesque site surely—cliffs, +forests, and mountain all around, and in view one most +singular sandstone pillar, named the Major Domo, +120 feet high and only 30 feet round—a mountain +stream brawling through tangled brushwood glades—a +garden. But the heat! That must prove a terror +by day to the inmates of Glen Eyrie Lodge or Castle—which, +by the by, was named, as one of us insisted, +from a collection of rubbish on a ledge in the face of +one of the cliffs, which was, he maintained, the nest of +an eagle. It was now time to return to our train, +and we were not sorry to get back to Colorado Springs.</p> + +<p>From Colorado Springs to our destination at Denver +there were still 75 miles of rail, and the line continued +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">91</a></span> +to ascend till we reached Divide (7186 feet), +whence there was a gentle descent. There were sixteen +stations named on the time-table. We stopped +at very few of them, and travelled somewhat too fast +to permit our placid enjoyment of the scenery, austere +and vast, which indeed deserved more attention than +could be given to it by passengers in a very lively +train—endless alps on alps, not sheeted with perpetual +white, but rather flecked with snowfields, which contrasted +finely with the sombre pine-forests, and the +rich hues of the rocks, touched by the rays of the +setting sun, that, ere it slid behind the mountains, +cast a rose-coloured mantle on their summit. The +evidences of a bustling city were not wanting in the +approaches to the capital of Colorado. There were +tall chimneys vomiting out smoke in the distance, and +near at hand trains of waggons were toiling over the +dusty plain—still 5000 feet above the sea-level—fast +trotters and people on horseback, beer-gardens, factories +of all kinds, brick-kilns, and then a fringe of +log houses and wooden shanties, before the train +stopped at the imposing and substantial depot.</p> + +<p>It was a quarter-past eight, nearly dark, when +we reached Denver, and glad were we to get into +the hall of the Windsor Hotel, which was crowded +with a mixed multitude—miners, and speculators, and +traders, and some travellers like ourselves—a very busy +scene indeed. In the hotel were all human comforts +nearly; hot and cold baths, and good rooms, and more +appliances of civilised existence, for those who could +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">92</a></span> +pay for them, than could be found in many hostelries +of approved reputation in venerable towns at home; +moreover, exuberant offers of help and information. +One goes to bed laden with obligations and heavy with +the sense of favours which can never be repaid. There +was now a <i>soupçon</i> of frost in the air, and notwithstanding +the heat which we had endured the greater +part of the day, fires were not ungrateful; and as +we peered out of our windows over the roofs of the +wide-spread houses of the town, we could see the +snow on the lofty ranges of hills, watered by the South +Platte River and Cherry Creek, which surround the +cup in which Denver has been built in obedience to +the impulses of the increasing population, which now +numbers, I believe, 38,000 souls. There was a bright +glare from the gas-lighted streets, sounds of music, and +a tumult of life in the town which would have been +creditable to an ancient metropolis. In the morning +from the hotel windows appeared a beautiful and widespread +panorama of the hills we had seen the evening +before, peak above peak, none very densely covered +perhaps, or presenting continuous snowfields, but +extending in billowy sweeps far away to the horizon, +all capped with snow, now bathed in a flood of fervent +sunshine, the snow lighted up by the peculiar +crimson tints common in Alpine regions. There +were duties in the way of sight-seeing and exploration +of no ordinary nature to be done. First there were +interviews and receptions, and the inevitable drive +through the place as soon as the ordeal of breakfast +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">93</a></span> +was over; and ordeal in some sort it was for the +strangers to file in to the public room and take their +places at their table, aware that the morning papers +had subjected them to exhaustive criticism, which was +being verified by those around us. The morning papers +too had given some topics for reflection, indications +that in the newly created capital of Colorado desperate +men, overtaken by the march of law and order, had +refused to accept service, and were vindicating their +rights as wild western outcasts to take or part with +life as of yore, in reckless encounters and deliberate +assassinations. There were, perhaps, at that moment +some hundreds, if not thousands, out of the population +of 37,000 or 38,000 of the city, who belonged to the +adventurous classes—sporting-men, betting-men, ring-men, +bar-keepers, hell-proprietors, and their satellites, +and the scum of the saloons attracted from the great +cities of the States for hundreds of miles, by the +prey which miners with belts full of gold, half mad +with drink, and always fond of excitement, frequently +are; and if to these be added the dissolute loafers +and broken-down mining speculators, the strength +of the army arrayed against the law may be estimated; +and the wonder is that among a population armed +to the teeth there are not more cases of such violent +deeds as we were reading of at breakfast. To the +stranger there was no evidence of the existence of +these disturbing elements, unless the bearded and +booted men with speculation in their eyes, in the hotel +passages and halls, belonged to the dangerous, as they +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">94</a></span> +certainly did to the mining, classes. As to the resources +of the city, although for rapidity of growth +its wonders may be eclipsed by those of Leadville, +Denver claims a very high place in the catalogue +of these marvellous fungi of civilisation, of which +the Western States present almost unique examples. +There is everything that any one can want to be had +for money in the place, and much more than most people +need. Paris fashions and millinery are in vogue. +There are fine shops, handsome churches, a theatre, +breweries, factories, banks, insurance offices.</p> + +<p>The principal street exhibits pretty young people, +who would have no occasion to fear comparison with +the <i>beau monde</i> in Eastern or European capitals. The +thoroughfares are crowded with vehicles, and spruce +carriages and well turned-out horses may be seen in +the favourite drive, that has been made over an +indifferent road to the base of the Rocky Mountains, +which appear to be close at hand, though they are +thirteen miles away. But here and there in the well-dressed +crowd may be seen a Bohemian <i>pur sang</i>, or a +miner in his every day clothes, bent on a rig out and +a good time of it. The streets, unpaved, dusty, and +rugged, are very wide, and bordered with trees, and +the houses generally are built of good red brick +instead of wood; and there are runnels of water like +those one sees in Pretoria and other Dutch towns in +South Africa. The roads about the city leave much +to be desired; but Rome was not built in a day.</p> + +<p>There are many ready-made clothing establishments +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">95</a></span> +in the main streets, and there is a heavy trade in +tinned provisions. Through the Western States, as in +South Africa, the débris of provision-tins constitutes +a certain and considerable addition to the objects to be +seen in the vicinity of every house, and to the mounds +of rubbish in the street of every village. How indeed +could the first-comers in such regions keep body and +soul together without the supplies in such a portable +form of the first necessaries of life? Having once run +up a town in these remote wastes, the inhabitants are +still compelled to make a liberal use of the same sort +of food, and mines of tinned iron gradually accumulate +around them.</p> + +<p>Our first excursion was to the Argo Works, under +very pleasant auspices, for we had the wife of the Senator, +who is one of the principal partners, and Mrs. Pearce, +whose husband is largely interested in the works, taking +charge of us. The works are at some distance outside +the town, but the lofty chimneys vomit out quite sufficient +vaporous fumes and smoke to blight the vegetation +and to give the people near at hand a taste of their +quality. I am not going to give a minute description, +for more reasons than one, of what we saw at the +works; but it was a very interesting exhibition of the +processes by which the precious metals are extracted +from the ores and delivered to commerce. The Argo +Works simply assay and reduce ores on commission, +but the business is on a very large scale. Immense +piles, in fact small mountains, of brown, cinnamon and +earth coloured dust and rock were heaped up in the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">96</a></span> +sheds, to be brought to the furnaces and turned, when +divested of the lead, iron, copper, and gold, out in +ingots of silver. All the methods for the extraction +of silver were shown to us, but I committed a gross +indiscretion when I asked, in my ignorance, "How +do you extract the gold?" "That," said the urbane +gentleman who was conducting us over the works, +"we never permit strangers to see." So there is more +there than meets the eye.</p> + +<p>The business of assaying here must be profitable, and +if the reputation of any firm be once established there +is a secure fortune for its members. The miners flock +to them, and they can dictate terms. The extent of +mining work in the country around may be inferred +from the numerous offices in connection with it in the +city. As a specimen of what Messrs. Bush and Tabor +of our hotel give their guests for dinner, let me offer +you this <i>menu</i> of the 5.30 ordinary to-day (June 16). +Soup, beef à l'Anglaise; fish, boiled trout, anchovy +sauce; corned beef, leg of mutton, sirloin beef, chickens +with giblet sauce, fricassee à la Toulouse, veal, kidneys +sautés aux croûtons, rice, croquettes, baked pork and +beans, saddle of antelope, currant jelly, lamb, tongue, +chicken salad, spiced salmon; innumerable "relishes" +and vegetables, baked rice pudding, strawberry pie, +apricot pie, jelly, blancmange, vanilla ice cream, +macaroons, pound cake, fruit, Swiss cheese, nuts, coffee, +&c. The wines were not cheap: champagne 16<i>s.</i> a +bottle, St. Julien 6<i>s.</i>, Leoville 14<i>s.</i>, sherry 8<i>s.</i>, brandy +14<i>s.</i> per bottle. Orders for "drinks" at the bar after +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">97</a></span> +dinner were much more general than orders for wine +at dinner.</p> + +<p>Denver, in spite of its mineral wealth, is very poor, +however, in that of which the want would make life, +even in America, intolerable. The supply of drinking-water +is scanty and bad, and last year there was nearly +a water famine. The <i>cartes</i> in the hotel announced +"Water used in this room is boiled and filtered." But +great efforts have been made to furnish the inhabitants +with a store, constant and adequate, of the precious +fluid, and we saw very considerable works, the property +of an Irish gentleman, erected before the town attained +its present dimensions, which were to be supplemented +by a new enterprise respecting which we +heard much. Perhaps no town of equal size in an equal +length of time has ever had so much money and money's +worth flowing in and through it as Denver since the +Colorado mines were worked. It is asserted that the +trade of the town for 1881 will exceed 8,000,000<i>l.</i> +Colorado in 1879 yielded ores to the value of more +than 3,750,000<i>l.</i> The output in the present year will +exceed that of 1880. In that year $35,417,517 worth of +gold and $20,183,889 of silver (more than 11,000,000<i>l.</i>) +was deposited in the United States Mint and Assay +Office. There is, besides, vast wealth in flocks and +herds, and Denver is the place where the people resort +from Colorado for purposes of trade and pleasure; +altogether an astounding place, with a future quite +dazzling to think of, unless the mines give in, and even +then Colorado cannot again be poor; its climate and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">98</a></span> +scenery will always attract travellers, and its capacity +for feeding sheep and cattle will secure its population. +"And as to the beetle?" Why, no one would have +anything to say to it. Nothing was known of it. +There might be such things in other States. "And +the name?" Probably it was a red-coloured bug, and +got the name Colorado just as the river, or tobacco, +was called, from the hue of it. At all events the bug +did not belong to the State.</p> + +<p>The interest which the progress of Colorado and the +condition of society in the State excite was exemplified +by the appearance in Denver of a party of Hungarian +noblemen, whose names gave occasion for stumbling to +the journalists who copied them out of the Hotel Register—Count +Andrassy and others, who were travelling +under the guidance of Dr. Rudolf Meyer, of Vienna. +Although the air of Denver is so much bepraised, +it happens that most of our party felt rather overcome +at the end of our excursion through the town +and the visit to the smelting works, and one of +the Hungarians was confined to his room. However, +they sallied out before dinner, and a gloomy +prophet of evil remarked, "If these strangers should +have a difficulty, I consider they'll hev only theirselves +to blame. Some citizens don't like strangers +comin' in and starin' at them, and they're apt to be +awkward in their tempers in the afternoon." Knowing +no danger, and fearing none, they went off, and were a +long time absent. Meantime we were preparing for +the road, as we were bound for Leadville, the city of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">99</a></span> +the "biggest boom" of mining times—"the Silver El +Dorado," as the guide-book, with a magnificent "bull," +describes it. Our Hungarian friends returned to the +hotel ere we left. They were filled with enthusiasm, +and with a good deal also of curiosity in regard to the +shootings of which they had heard so much, and were +following in our track next day, and so we parted <i>sans +adieux</i>. How the love of gold has filled these lone +valleys with desperate men! "They are a rough lot, +sure enough," said the landlord, "but lynching keeps +them down; and it is much better than hanging according +to law, to my mind. It certainly is cheaper." +"How is it cheaper?" "Why," said he, "when a +man is prosecuted, or when he is tried before the +judges, the law expenses are heavy, and they fall on +the county. When a man is lynched there is only the +expense of the rope, and a little loss of time for the boys +who do the job." From Denver to Pueblo and from +Pueblo to Leadville the line is on the narrow-gauge +principle, and our train, which left at seven o'clock in +the evening, seemed to be driven on no principle at all; +for, anxious to astonish a Duke perhaps, or Britishers +generally, the driver did what certainly could not be +called his level best to send us along up and down +a very rough line, and round the sharpest curves, at +the rate of forty miles an hour, so that when we +turned in, our rest, if rest at all it were, was exceedingly +broken, and we trundled about in our +berths as if we were in a ship in a pretty heavy +sea. Still this narrow-gauge was the only line which +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">100</a></span> +could be made through such a country as we were +traversing. Peeps out of the window ever and anon +revealed, high up amongst the stars, rugged mountain-tops, +and for ever there came the sound of rushing +water, near or remote, as the train "bounded" on its +course. I do not know what stations we passed on +our way, but the night was very long, and I greeted +with pleasure the first gleam of light above the hill-tops. +The Arkansas River was on our left, and at +dawn we had glimpses of its turbid stream running +madly in deep gorges far below us. At the South +Arkansas station the train halted soon after daybreak, +and then we diverged from the main line, and a light +train took us over the Arkansas River by a fine bridge +on its way up the Gunnison Extension to visit the +highest mountain-pass traversed by a railway in the +world. South Arkansas station is 217 miles from +Denver, and is 6944 feet—and Marshall Pass (25 miles +away), to which we were bound, is 10,760 feet—above +sea-level. There were grades of 211 and curves of 24° +on the way, and the railroad twisted in and out among +the ravines like an iron Alexandrine, for ever ascending +till we had passed the limits of forest life. There were +stations at short intervals—Poncha Springs, Mears, +Silver Creek—from each other. From the stations +there is a good deal of cross-country traffic, and at one +place we saw three stages laden with men and women—or +rather, to be polite and accurate, let me say with +women and ladies—starting, one with six horses, and +the other two with four each. These were bound for +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">101</a></span> +Gunnison, and as we were halting for a little, the Duke +and some others got out of the train, and sauntered up +towards the wooden shanties which formed "the town," +consisting of the usual array of saloons and drinking +places. However, our course was cut short by the +information vouchsafed by one of the officials, that it +might be as well not to go up, as there had been +a big shooting match that morning, and that one +man was killed and four had been wounded, "and +some of them were on the drink yet." From 4.30 <span class="s08">A.M.</span> +to 6.45 <span class="s08">A.M.</span> we struggled up towards the pass till +the line came to an end near the summit, and we +were rewarded by some very fine views, exceedingly +like those of the Mont Cenis Railway or the Sömmering. +The hills on both sides of the line were +stippled and flaked with snow, but there was no extensive +field, so far as the eye could see, nor was there +any appearance whatever of a glacier, the tops generally +being clear of snow, which only lodged in the +ravines and hollows. Strange it was in these alpine +heights to hear the clang of Italian tongues; but most +of the navvies were from Italy, and if not quite so +strong as English or Americans, they were in more +favour with contractors, because they did more work, +owing to their steadiness and sobriety. The line was +being pushed on at an astonishing rate, and one man +was pointed out to us who had laid four and a half +miles of railway in one day, "the biggest thing of the +kind ever done." Our enjoyment of the scenery was +very much diminished by our animal appetites, stimulated +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">102</a></span> +by the sharp mountain air, which craved incessantly +for food. But not even a cup of coffee was +to be had until we got back to the South Arkansas +station, late in the morning, where an excellent breakfast +awaited us. Here we were detained some time by +a derailment of an engine in front.</p> + +<p>From South Arkansas station to Leadville (61 miles) +the railroad is still more aspiring. The higher we +ascend the less striking are the scenic effects, but the +grades are not very severe till we come to Malta, +where it reaches 130; from Hilliers to Leadville the +maximum is 176, the curves being often 15°. The +general character of the country may be conceived +from these figures, but no words can convey any idea +of the wholesale destruction of timber which has marked +the progress of the explorers and prospectors. Where +the axe was weary the blaze and the fire were called in, +and hundreds of miles of forest are laid in blackened +ruin. At last we are on a level with the hill-tops. +There, on the hill-tops and in the valleys of a sterile +region in front of you, amidst those tall chimneys +vomiting out smoke and steam, is a wilderness of +wooden huts, "the Great Carbonate Camp"—where we +leave the train—spread out over an undulating plateau, +broken into mound-like hills and sharp hillocks—bustling +streets filled with the most remarkable swarm +of all nations that ever settled on any one spot in +the world. The story of Leadville reads like a +chapter out of some book of Oriental fable. It is a +huge barrack of wooden houses, with some solid and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">103</a></span> +important buildings, with masses of tree-stumps cropping +up in the centre of the main thoroughfares, +pitched over an undulating, rugged, dusty ledge. In +the midst of blocks of houses sprout up the chimneys +of furnaces and mining works, the clang of machinery +fills the air, which is thick with clouds of dust. It was +a few years ago an utterly wild, lifeless waste amidst +the mountains covered with forests, when three +brothers, named Gallagher, exploring from California, +were led by some genius, good or bad, to test the +material of the rocks in the ravine. They struck gold +ore, and silver too, and they set up a claim; and +presently they sold their shares in the land which they +had appropriated, for 40,000<i>l.</i>, which they divided. +Two used their wealth wisely, and made more of it, +and, taking to themselves the members of the family, +throve exceedingly; one, not so wise, if he were quite +as good, did not prosper as well as his brothers. But +the scene of their operations was soon swarming with +enterprising miners. There was a mighty "boom." +Now there is a city! Leadville is, I think, the most +astonishing city on earth, but I am not by any means +inclined to say that it is a place I should like to be +astonished about for more than a few hours.</p> + +<p>The party drove to the Morning Star, said to be +the best mine in Leadville; and the Duke, Lady Green, +Sir Henry Green, and others, went down the mine +in miners' clothes or cloaks. Two others, whose names +I shall not give, remained above, and had, I fancy, +the best of the time. Afterwards we visited Grant's +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">104</a></span> +Smelting Works, and then back to the Clarence Hotel +and dined, strolling out afterwards through the town +and visiting the billiard saloons, the Grand Central +Theatre, and finally, where we were told Leadville life +was to be seen in all its glory, the faro and the kino +tables, which, however, were doing but very little +business, as it was not until after midnight that play +in the town generally commenced. Instead of sleeping +at the hotel, we resolved to take refuge in the train, +which was drawn up at the siding; and we had to +drive in order to reach it, as it was considered unsafe +to walk through the streets in the dark.</p> + +<p>We started at four o'clock next morning, June 18th, +and on arriving at Arkansas Station learned that an +engine was off the line in front of us. Breakdown gangs +were sent for, and all the locomotive talent amongst +our passengers repaired quickly to the scene. As it +was not easy to lift the engine, the engineers adopted +the expedient of laying a temporary rail to turn its +flank so as to enable us to pass round it, which we +did after a delay of about an hour. The Duke got +out and sat on the cow-catcher by way of a change. +But the interest we took in the scenery was somewhat +diminished by the intelligence that the delay +caused by the engine would prevent our enjoying the +"soda bath" we had been promised at Cañon City, and +the sight of the State Prison, where murderers were +to be paraded by the dozen. About twenty miles +north of the Grand Cañon, the gorges through which +the river runs became wider and deeper. All that has +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">105</a></span> +been written about the Grand Cañon utterly fails to +convey an adequate idea of its exceeding grandeur and +wildness. The rocks—closing in so that the spectator +in the car, looking forward, thinks the progress of the +train must be arrested, and that it is not possible for +it to get out of the <i>cul de sac</i> which appears in front, +rising aloft for upwards of two thousand five hundred +feet on each side—are coloured with the brightest +hues, and present an infinite variety of form. The +impetuous current of the Arkansas River, contracted at +times to the breadth of some twenty or thirty yards, and +penned into a space in which the waters boil and toss +as if about to leap on and submerge the passing cars, +roars wildly down below on our right at a depth varying +as the line rises and falls. But it is at the Bridge—a +triumph of engineering skill—that the horrors of the +pass culminate. The sides of the ravine approach so near +that the daring engineer was enabled to execute the idea +of lowering from above a <img src="images/triangle.jpg" width="15" height="18" alt="Triangle" />-shaped frame or trestle of +iron; and, the ends catching on each side of the +gorge, permitted him to work on it for the construction +of the iron platform over which the train is +carried at a height of some hundreds of feet right +over the maddened river. You can look down through +the interstices of the girders and glance shudderingly +at the hell of waters below—a sight and sensation +never to be forgotten. The ravine gradually expands +and the cliffs recede as the line strikes eastwards; and +though the scenery retains a wild and savage character +for many miles farther, the impressions of the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">106</a></span> +Grand Cañon caused us to regard it with comparative +indifference. We heard many tales of the great railway +war which was waged for the possession of the +pass, of which traces still remained in the ruins of +posts of vantage and observation, and the works of the +defeated railroad visible on the other side of the ravine. +At night we reached Pueblo and took up our quarters +in our own cars, and continued our journey, after some +delay, towards Kansas City. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">107</a></span></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER V.<br /> +KANSAS TO ST. LOUIS.</h2> + +<p class="chapsum"> +Liquor Law—Kansas Academy of Science—An Incident of Travel—A +Parting Symposium—Life in the Cars—St. Louis to New +York. +</p> + +<p><i>June 19th.</i>—Still on the rolling prairies; in the +country of compulsory abstinence—the paradise of Sir +Wilfred Lawson. At 9.30 <span class="s08">A.M.</span> the train stopped at +Newton, 431 miles from Pueblo, and 281 from Kansas.</p> + +<p>Here a phenomenon—there was a man by the road side +who walked with unsteady step, whose legs +tottered, and who lurched violently as he came down +the road at that early hour. "He is a sick man," +observed one of my friends in the train; "that gentleman +has been taking <i>medicine</i>." In the Kansas Act +there is a clause enabling physicians, in case of need, +to order stimulants for the patients without penalty; +but I am told the doctors have generally refused to act +upon that permission, so I suppose our friend had been +consulting an unlicensed practitioner.</p> + +<p>It would be ill done, when I am anxious to acknowledge +the pleasure and profit which I derived from my +passage through the State, if I did not record the +satisfaction with which I perused a volume of the +"Transactions of the Kansas Academy of Science," +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">108</a></span> +which by accident I picked up at one of the stations. +The very name speaks trumpet-tongued for the progress +which has been made in this wild region. The year +before last, the twelfth annual meeting of the Academy +was held in Topeka, and I find amongst the list of papers +read such subjects as these:—The Kansas Lepidoptera; +Kansas Minerals; the Mounds of Southern Kansas; +Recent additions to Kansas Plants; Kansas Botany; +Kansas Meteorites; Phonetic representations of Indian +Language; Sinkholes; Elementary Sounds of Language; +Mound-builders; On Recent Indian Discoveries. +And among the lecturers there was Professor +B. F. Mudge, who died last year, whose name probably +is known to a very limited number of scientific +men outside the University of Kansas. Generally the +papers contributed by the gentlemen of the State attest +industry and attainments which make their praise of +the Professor particularly valuable. It is curious +enough to pick up in a railway carriage, traversing +such a scene of comparative wildness and vast uninhabited +plains in Western Kansas, an exceedingly +interesting examination of the Helmholtz theories of +sight. The object of the lecturer would scarcely be +suspected by the reader. We had already been struck +by the extraordinary absence of signalmen, or of any +of the complex apparatus of men and machinery which +may be seen in Europe, and notably in England, to +report the progress of trains on the lines. Collisions, +however, occur in America where these precautions are +not taken, and the lecturer attributed a good deal of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">109</a></span> +these accidents to colour-blindness, which appears to +have attracted considerable attention in the United +States. Surgeons, pilots, &c., are tested for colour, +and in the army colour-blindness disqualifies the recruit +for employment in the signal corps. Altogether +the papers give an impression that in this new State +there are diligent students of natural history and +physics, and profound inquirers into all the phenomena +of life. There was a reverse to the medal.</p> + +<p>At a station where the train halted beyond Pueblo, +a card was handed to me by one of the stewards. "The +gentleman is, as he seemed very pressing, outside; but +I told him you were engaged." I started as I read the +name and address on the card, as well I might. They +indicated that an old friend whom I had left in a condition +of great bodily weakness and infirmity in London, +was close at hand in this remote region—a wonderful +if welcome fly in amber. I ran out of the drawing-room +into the next car, and there saw a man, agitated and +travel-worn, whom I had never, to the best of my belief, +seen in my life before. His story was told, if not soon, +at least in time to let me partly understand the situation +ere the train moved off. The stranger had been in the +service of the gentleman whose card he sent in to me, +but had left it to better himself in America, and had +gone out as valet to an American of good position at +Colorado Springs. He found, however, according to his +own account, that he was expected to do things not +required of a valet in his own country, such as lumbering, +wood-cutting, and the like, and so he had thrown up +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">110</a></span> +his situation and was going back to England. He had +had quite enough of Colorado Springs. "I was not +there above a month, and I was shot at twice," he said. +"Once because I made some remark in a bar-room, +where a chap was abusing Englishmen; and another +time while I was speaking in the street to a man a +fellow had a grudge against. He fired at him across +the road, and the ball whistled within a hair's-breadth +of my head." He had arrived at Pueblo some time +before our special, and as the morning was warm, +he walked into a bar near the platform, while the +engine of his train was watering, to get a glass of +lemonade. As he was drinking it, a man walked in +and called for a glass of whisky, putting down, at +the same time, what seemed to be a bank note, on the +counter. The boniface said, "I haven't got change +for this twenty-dollar bill—perhaps this gentleman +can oblige you." The unsuspecting Briton, who had +put the money for his passage to Liverpool in a purse, +drew it out to change the note, and the strange +customer at once seized it from his hand, and rushed +off towards the street with his booty. The Britisher +ran after him, but checked his wild career when he +saw, within an inch of his head, the muzzle of a revolver +which the robber had drawn, and the fellow +vanished. "Won't you help me to stop the thief; you +see what has happened?" exclaimed the victim turning +to the barman. "I guess there was no money in that +purse, sir. And if there was, perhaps you had no +more right to it than he had." Then the Briton +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">111</a></span> +dashed off after Don Guzman, shouting "police," and +was at once accosted by an officer of the Pueblo force. +He hurriedly stated the facts. The policeman smiled. +"I think you won't see that pile agin," he remarked; +"and if you don't look sharp ye'll miss yer train, that's +a fact!" The man had his railway ticket all right, a +few dollars in his pocket, and I told him I would see +him and get him a passage, if I found on inquiry his +story was true. My companions thought the tale suspicious—but +I believe it was true, and I subsequently +franked the man to England.</p> + +<p>Now here we had an exemplification of the manners +and customs of the district. Such an act of violence +and robbery might occur in London—anywhere. But +what of the apathy, or perhaps complicity, of the bar man? +And if it or they be considered not altogether +abnormal, is the conduct of the policeman to be accepted +as quite consistent with the discharge of a +policeman's duty? Well, whilst I was pondering on +these things, there came to me the best possible adviser—a +judge in this Israel—our excellent Palinurus, +Mr. White. He threw a new, if not a side light on the +subject. "Depend on it he is a confidence man. The +trains are full of them! Our conductors have express +orders about the rascals." And he explained that a +confidence man is a swindler—very often an Englishman, +who makes it his business to look out for unwary +strangers, on whom he imposes with some tale of distress, +or some recital of imaginary misfortune and +adventure. As the man I had seen was coming on in +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">112</a></span> +the train in our wake, Mr. White promised to talk +with the conductor, and find out, if he could, the truth +about the Pueblo robbery. Before dusk a telegram +was forwarded by him to me from the station where he +left us, to say that the conductor had no doubt the +man was robbed, but that it was partly his own fault, +and to warn me to be cautious in my dealings with +him.</p> + +<p>We have now been travelling straight on end for +1160 miles, with only two engineers and two firemen +and one engine, a feat of endurance which has greatly +exercised the Duke of Sutherland, who, as a practical +director of the London and North-Western Railway, +has knowledge of such matters, and who contrasts the +performance with the experience he has on the home +lines, where engines, engineers, and firemen would +have been relieved or laid up over and over again. +The head engineer of the line, who joined us, Mr. +Hackney, formerly of Congleton, had become accustomed +to these journeyings and endurances, which +were brought to the front in our conversation by the +engine-driver appearing at the door of the carriage to +claim a dollar which he had won from the Duke in a +bet that he could not do the distance without laying +up the engine for repairs.</p> + +<p>All the long Sabbath-day we travelled on through +the prairie, catching glimpses now and then of wooden +villages, around which trees were beginning to sprout +up, and of the little churches with knots of carts, +waggons, horses, and buggies outside, and people waiting +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">113</a></span> +for the end of the sermon. Now and then, perhaps +at intervals of fifteen miles or so, are places of larger +importance, such as Emporia, a rising city on the plains, +where many steeples pointed aloft indicated considerable +diversity of creed. An authority, not always to +be relied upon, stated that there are fourteen churches +belonging to the town.</p> + +<p>There was a parting symposium in the second +Pullman ere we reached Topeka. Mr. White, Major +Anderson, General Brown, Mr. Jerome, and my much +wandering compatriot, a veritable Irish Ulysses, raised +the tuneful melodies of the "Golden Slipper," the +"Little Brown Jug," and the other tender psalmodies +which had whiled away so many hours, for the last time +in our society, and the little gages which were but the +outward and visible signs of the regard we felt for our +friends were exchanged with honest effusion. There +may be—nay, there are—many jealousies and causes of +estrangement between the people of the Old Country +and of the New, but between the individuals of both +there is a <i>camaraderie</i> which cannot, I believe, be found +between Englishmen and the natives of any country +except America.</p> + +<p>"Good bye! God bless you! Be sure if ever you +come to England you shall have a hearty welcome from +me." "And from me!" "And me!" "And me!" +The engine bell tolled, and we moved slowly on.</p> + +<p>And we were left all alone! The pleasant companions +of so many weeks had gone! I wonder if they +missed us as much as we missed them? +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">114</a></span></p> + +<p>While travelling across the Rockies and the desert to +San Francisco and back, our course of life was pretty uniform, +and one day followed another with almost perfect +resemblance in the mode of existence and in all things +except the scenery and the country through which we +were passing. First, in the early morning came one +of the attendants to our bedside with a cup of coffee, +and then the curtains of the little cubicle were thrown +aside and you looked out on either plain, or mountain, +or river, or col; and on the faces of early risers at doors +or windows as the train passed through some rising +town. At one end of the saloon there was a bath-room, +and from the tank there was always to be obtained +sufficient water for the purpose of an early dip, which +was enjoyed as occasion offered in turn by the party. +Then a cigarette. Then we dropped in as people do at +a country house, into the sitting-room, and exchanged +ideas as to the progress made during the night, and the +stoppages, wondered where we were, and had a little +conversation with the conductor or Arthur as to the +place where we could stop or get the papers—and so +got over the morning till 9 o'clock, when breakfast was +announced, consisting of fish, poultry, meat, fruit (I +had nearly said flowers, for there was always a bouquet +on the table), tea, coffee, and cold dishes, with abundance +of milk and butter. Where the fish came from and how +they were kept fresh was matter of wonder, for the instances +were very rare in which there was any indication +that it had not quite recently come out of the sea or the +river. The supply of ice was liberal and unfailing, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">115</a></span> +and whenever we stopped at any considerable station +the whole disposable strength of the attendants in the +train was employed in grappling with large blocks of +it and stowing it away in the ice reservoir, in which +were the larder and the cellar for such wines as needed +cooling, and for the vegetables and meat, of which there +were great stores constantly laid in. Then after +breakfast there was reading or sight-seeing, investigating +the line, examining the maps, receiving visits +and returning them in other parts of the train, till in +the very hot days it was necessary, after expelling the +flies, which were troublesome on occasion, to draw the +dust-blinds and the curtains of the carriages, to mitigate +the fierceness of the sun. It was objected occasionally +that by this process we deprived ourselves of the opportunity +of what was called "seeing the country," but +after all a glance now and then is quite sufficient to +reveal the general character of the districts through +which the train is running; and the most diligent and +painstaking observer cannot keep his eyes fixed steadily +for a day on the external aspects of the region through +which he is travelling. I should be sorry to declare +that every one was wide awake all the time of the forenoon +and up to the period of lunch, which too often +exceeded on the side of many dishes, being, in fact, a +mid-day dinner; but then no one was obliged to eat +more than he liked, or drink either. Then came +the longest stretch of the day, and at its close +another banquet; and as the sun declined and the +temperature decreased, we could take more pleasure in +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">116</a></span> +looking out at the fantastic forms of the vegetation +which clothed the arid rocks in the desert, or on the +bright green prairie, or on the towering mountains, +waiting till the sun had set, generally in a blaze of +glory. There were, of course, interruptions and variations +as we halted at the more important places; +disappointments about letters which had been telegraphed +for and which were expected day after day, +constituted also a matter of conversation and discourse. +There was an harmonium in the sitting-room of the +palace car, but no one had the art of playing it, +although we had plenty of music of another sort; for +after dinner the gentlemen of the railroad party who +had not dined with us came in, and we were never +tired of listening to the songs, so original and amusing, +which they gave with great spirit and admirable +time and tune, for it happened they all possessed good +voices, and the melodies with which the troops of +coloured minstrels have now rendered the world +familiar were then new to us.</p> + +<p>During the whole of our tour the weather has been +most favourable. With the exception of the rainy days +in Canada, and the cold and rawness which characterised +the time of our short visit to Richmond, there was +nothing worse to complain of than continual sunshine. +Now and then the temperature was a little too good to +be pleasant when we were traversing the beds of the +dry seas in the desert in Colorado and California, but +that was something to look back upon with satisfaction, +because there was no time lost in keeping within doors +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">117</a></span> +owing to the rain and storm or cold. "Within doors," +however, is a phrase scarcely applicable to our mode of +life, as it would imply that we were in stable habitations, +whereas, as will have been seen by those who +have accompanied us so far, we "lived and moved, and +had our being" in railway carriages; a mode of life +rendered so comfortable by all appliances, that it was +sometimes no relief to be told that we would have to +pass the night at an hotel.</p> + +<p>For nine days and nine nights in succession, on one +occasion, we never slept out of the carriages or got out +of the train except to take a stroll about the station, or +a peep into the street of a small town whilst we were +waiting, and one got quite accustomed to that nomad +and yet civilised mode of existence, where at every +halting-place we were supplied with the latest intelligence +by the local papers, and made the recipients of +some attention or courtesy, visits and compliments (the +remarks of the other sort not being many), bouquets of +flowers, presents of fruit, and plenty of conversation. +But that my critics might say I dilate too much upon +the material enjoyment of life, I would describe at +length the means which were supplied in the course of +these long journeys for animal enjoyment. Never could +there be found more attentive and obliging domestics +than the coloured men who waited upon us—Arthur +and his fellows. There lived in the kitchen compartment +of the train, at the end of one of the saloons, a +coloured cook, very intelligent and gossipy, full of +quaint conceits and dishes and conversation, who +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">118</a></span> +commenced life as a slave on a Southern plantation, +probably adopted for indoor purposes on account of his +smartness. He liberated himself in the course of the +war, and marched off with a regiment of Federals in +the capacity of cook and body-servant to one of the +officers, wherein he saw a great amount of very hard +fighting at very close quarters. This adventurous +modern Othello was wont to discourse with much animation +when he came out for a breath of fresh air on +the platform and could find anybody to talk to him, +although he could move no more tender heart than +that of Sir Henry Green. The gentlemen of the +Atchison, &c., Railway, when travelling with us, had +a <i>cordon bleu</i> in the saloon—an Italian or Frenchman, +I think, or at all events a French-speaking man, who +had served also, and would have done credit to an +establishment where faults in a <i>chef</i> would not lightly +be condoned. In the interchange of courtesies, Mr. +White and his friends invited our party now and then +to dine in the saloon, which was not "across the way," +but up a little, on the line, being the saloon in front +of us.</p> + +<p>But here we are at Kansas City once again! At +5.30 <span class="s08">P.M.</span> the train arrived at the platform, which was +gay with a Sunday crowd, of whom many were negresses—black, +brown, brindled, and yellow <i>citoyennes</i>—in +much variety of colour and garmenting. Unlike Samson, +their weakness is in their hair, and like Achilles, they +are vulnerable about the heels (to the arrows of an +æsthetical criticism, which accepts the Greek idea of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">119</a></span> +beauty in form); but they seemed to enjoy life amazingly, +and not to be in need of beaux; perhaps the +happiest people in the world now that their chattel +days are over. It was late when we turned into our +berths, for it was a lovely night and the fire-flies exercised +a great attraction over us, but at last the charm +was worn out and we slept till morning without a +break.</p> + +<p><i>June 20th.</i>—Still the same boundless plain. In vain +does one look for the grass fields with close, even, +carpet-like surface to be seen in Europe. We are still +passing through exceedingly rich land—the fields covered +with flocks of sheep and herds of good-looking cattle. +There are more trees by the stream-side, and shrubs +growing in the hollows. Habitations are more frequent, +and so are fencing and planting. As the sun was +setting we approached St. Louis. There were some +park-like glades, and vistas opening up to pleasant +mansions, amid grounds showing marks of culture. +There had been a severe thunderstorm the night before, +and the St. Louis Station had still traces of its effects +in pools of mud. But the rain had cooled the air, and +the people were rejoicing exceedingly in the great +improvement that had taken place in the weather, for, +they told us, men and women had been dropping down +with the heat a few days ago as though they had been +struck by musketry.</p> + +<p>The appearance of the St. Louis Terminus gave +one a high idea of the importance of this city. Eight +trains were waiting on their respective lines to start +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">120</a></span> +with passengers to all parts of the Union; and by +the simple device of placing at the end of each train +a large board announcing its destination and the time +of its departure, much anxiety was saved to intending +passengers, not to speak of the irritation of officials +avoided by this simple expedient. The journey was +continued by the <a name="Indianopolis" id="Indianopolis">Indianopolis</a> and Vandalia, and by +what is called the "Pa'handle" line to the Pennsylvania +Railroad on to Philadelphia. The train was timed +on Tuesday so that we were able to see the famous +passage over the Alleghany Mountains from Conemaugh +to Altoona. For nearly eleven miles we were +carried without steam, and with the brakes on, through +very fine scenery, down the mountain-side, but the +summit was crossed in the darkness of a tunnel 1200 +yards long. There are some striking engineering +feats in the way of curves and gradients, and the +trace of the line is very bold all the way down to +Altoona, where the Pennsylvania Railroad engine and +machinery shops are established—the centre of a +population of some 17,000 souls, where twenty years +ago "there were," as a friend said, "only bears, +deer, woodpeckers, and skallywags." The Duke, Mr. +Stephen, and our railway experts got out and visited +the workshops, and came back very much pleased at +the discovery of several London and North-Western +men in good positions in the Pennsylvania Railroad +Company's service, who welcomed their old directors +with effusion, and that there was nothing visible there +for Crewe to copy, unless perhaps cast-iron wheels. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">121</a></span> +The speed at which we travelled was a sensible proof +that we were once more on the line of our old friends +of Pennsylvania. From Altoona to Harrisburg, 132 +miles, we rattled along in two hours and forty-three +minutes. On another stretch of the line we travelled +eighty-three miles in one hour and forty-two seconds, +including stoppages; and the rapid motion was very +agreeable, as there was a perceptible increase of temperature +after we reached the plains and approached +the beautiful valley of the Susquehannah—a scene of +industry, prosperity, and peace. Fortunately there +was a good light on the river, and we had a fine +view of the country all the way to Harrisburg under +the rays of the setting sun. A little farther on we +were gratified by the appearance of General Roberts +at a station on the way, where he was awaiting the +Duke to congratulate him on his safe return from +the Western expedition, and we bade him farewell at +his own house, with many sincere and well-deserved +acknowledgments of great and constant kindness. +Then over the river by the noble bridge, and on to +Philadelphia. We did not visit Pittsburg, which was +vomiting out masses of smoke, nor did we halt this +time at the capital of the Quaker State. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">122</a></span></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER VI.<br /> +NEW YORK—NEWPORT—DEPARTURE.</h2> + +<p class="chapsum"> +Coney Island—Newport—Bass-fishing—Habit of Spitting—Brighton +Beach—Newport—Coaching—Extra Ecclesiam—Victories +of American Horses—Newport Avenues—Return to New +York—Our last day in America. +</p> + +<p>The special train was detained by the immense +amount of traffic on the line, as we approached New +York, and we did not reach Brooklyn till a little +before 11 <span class="s08">P.M.</span> on June 21, so that it was past midnight +when we ascended the steps of the Windsor +Hotel, which we had selected by way of a change, +and found to be every way commendable, with the +exception of its distance from the busy parts of the +city. The following day was devoted to letter reading +and writing, receiving visitors, and various attempts +"to go out," which were not generally successful, for +New York was palpitating with the intense heat. The +"heated term" was in full vigour, but it was now +quite temperate in comparison to the excesses which +had marked its advent some time before our arrival. +In the evening we got up strength and courage +enough to go to Wallack's Theatre, a very pretty, +well-constructed house, and saw "The World" excellently +acted and admirably put on the stage. Next +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">123</a></span> +day, June 23rd, in virtue of a solemn league and +covenant with Uncle Sam and Mr. Hurlbut, the Duke +and I devoted ourselves to fresh fields and pastures new, +and ordered ourselves accordingly for Coney Island. +A long bank of sand by the sea-shore has, by an +accident, become one of the most crowded resorts in the +world, and to-day there were races in the new ground. +It was not, as we found, so easy to get there. Having +the advantage of two experienced guides, our party of +four managed to break up into two and to miss each +other; one taking the boat at one iron pier, and the +other embarking by a different mode of conveyance. +But as we were bound to see Coney Island, the Race course +being a secondary object, our temporary separation +did not prove a source of great annoyance.</p> + +<p>The early settlers would indeed have been astonished +if they could look round and see what they have +brought the quiet place to in these later days. They +were Quakers persecuted by the good Christians of New +England, who were driven out of Boston as ruthlessly +as though they had been malignants and papists of the +worst sort. They settled the township of Gravesend +about 250 years ago, and amongst the conspicuous +settlers occurs the title and name of Lady Deborah +Moody, of whom this deponent knows nothing, but +wonders how, with such a title, she managed to have +influence amongst a Society of Friends.</p> + +<p>A ship was built, so the Americans say, of 70 tons in +1699, by the descendants of the Quaker settlers, and less +than 100 years later the bold republicans, abandoning +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">124</a></span> +the doctrines of peace, engaged and captured an English +corvette off the island. It was all along of General +<a name="How" id="How">How</a>, who landed his troops here and set the people to +work on the fortifications he threw up, whether they +would or no. A corvette, bound to Halifax, anchored +off the island, and an old whaler, who, says the +chronicler, must have been smarting under the wrongs +he had suffered at the hands of the red-coats, or who +possibly regarded the work as he would the capture of +a finner or a bottle-nose, imparted to a few trusty +friends the idea of "cutting her out." So embarking +at night in a couple of boats, they stole down with +muffled oars and ran up under the stern of the ship. +There was no watch, and through the cabin windows +the officers could be seen playing cards. The crews of +the boats boarded the corvette simultaneously, seized, +overpowered, and bound the officers and men, lowered +them into their boats, and, having set the man-of-war +on fire, pulled over to the Jersey shore with their +prisoners. It is to be hoped that the demeanour and +language of the captain have been misrepresented by +local tradition; but he is said to have cried bitterly, +and to have exclaimed, "To be surprised and captured +by two blooming egg-shells is too blasted bad!"</p> + +<p>There was a long period of neglect before Fashion +and the populace found out the attractions of Coney +Island. Fishermen, oyster-catchers, and sportsmen +visited the sandy beach from time to time; then after +a while a few houses were run up of a very inferior +class, and these were frequented by the very worst of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">125</a></span> +the scum of New York, so that it was almost dangerous, +and certainly disgusting, to go among them, while the +scenes on the beach, to which the present proceedings +afford such a contrast, were described as being of the +most disgraceful character.</p> + +<p>The official directions for spending a day at Coney +Island certainly indicate a belief in the possession of +enormous physical energy and indefatigable curiosity on +the part of the visitors in those who compose the code. +Having given you sailing instructions by the iron steam boat +to Bay Ridge for the Sea Beach Railway (ticket +35 cents), you are to visit the Sea View Palace Hotel, +the Piazza, the two iron piers, the <i>Camera obscura</i> +(10 cents), the Great Milking Cow, the top of the observatory +(15 cents); then to eat a Rhode Island clam bake +(50 cents), visit the aquarium (10 cents), take a +park waggon and ride over the Concourse to Brighton; +see the hotel grounds and bathing pavilion there; +then take the Marine Railway (5 cents) to Manhattan +Beach; visit the Oriental Hotel and take the Marine +Railway to Point Breeze (10 cents) and return back +to Brighton Beach Pavilion and take a bath; then see +the Museum of Living Wonders (10 cents), dine at the +Hotel Brighton, hear a concert in the evening, and +return to New York by 11 o'clock. "This trip," +observes the compiler, "may fatigue one, but the +excitement soon overcomes the trouble." Coney +Island is indeed an institution.</p> + +<p>Along the sea front of the bank for some three or four +miles there has been constructed an esplanade lined +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">126</a></span> +with seats, and defended from the sea by a stone wall. +Outside there is a belt of shingle on which the surf +breaks, but not violently, unless in bad weather. Large +bathing establishments, with every appliance, are placed +at convenient intervals along the shore. Here in the +season tens of thousands of people may be seen, all +properly and decently attired, disporting in the waves. +At the time of our visit, the hour and the season +of the year seemed not to be favourable to the indulgence. +We were too late in the day. It is an +early place, and from 7 till 9 <span class="s08">A.M.</span> from the month +of June to the end of September are described as +the orthodox periods. Nevertheless the spectacle was +quite unique, and if you can imagine Brighton with +half-a-dozen Pavilions blown out to twice their size, +and the largest hotels multiplied by ten in length, +breadth, and depth, you may fancy what the Coney +Island front is, provided always that you can also +conjure up (literally) myriads of well-dressed men, +women, and children perambulating the esplanade or +sitting in the grounds around the various establishments +which occupy a large space inland—pavilions, +hotels, exhibitions, restaurants, and club-houses. There +were fireworks going on in broad day; but these were +principally for the purpose of exhibiting very ingenious +Japanese figures, which were discharged from bombs, +and which gradually descending were objects of eager +competition amongst the younger members of the +enormous multitude. And with all so much good-humour, +so much propriety of demeanour; none of the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">127</a></span> +brutal rushes of "roughs" which disgust one with +English popular assemblages—none of the brutal horse-play, +and screams, and unmeaning cries of the 'Arrys +and the Bills of our popular resorts.</p> + +<p>Looking at Mr. Marshall's excellent book on the +United States, which we found to be copious and +accurate, I was struck by what he says respecting +a habit of the people which, according to my experience, +has very much decreased since I was last +in the States, but which he finds in as full force, and +repulsive as ever. I am bound to say I think the +habit of spitting has very much diminished, but from +numerous evidences, from the presence of spittoons in +every room and in the passages of the hotels, and +from public admonitions, such as one we saw at some +of the theatres, that the audience would not spit upon +the stage, I must believe that it still exists. What +the cause of this habit may be it is not easy to determine. +It cannot be in the race, because it is +scarcely an "English" habit. I would be inclined to +attribute it to the drinking of iced water, but ladies in +America use the national beverage quite as freely as +the men, and spitting is a masculine failing. Can it +be a result of climate? Scarcely. For in the States, +British-born people do not seem to be affected by the +influence of the habit in those around them after +many years' residence. Smokers and non-smokers alike +indulge in the practice, so that tobacco cannot be +charged with the disagreeable custom. I assume that +it is as common as Mr. Marshall asserts it is, but +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">128</a></span> +I am bound to say, according to my own observation +and experience on my last visit, that there was no +evidence to show that it was common or national. +Chewing tobacco also appears to me to have fewer +votaries than formerly. A remark to that effect at +Richmond brought upon me something like a rebuke +from the gentleman to whom I spoke, a Judge of the +land. "No, sir," he said, "not at all! I rather think +we chew more than ever!" And, to illustrate his faith, +he produced a silver box, shaped a plug of no doubt +very excellent weed, and thrust it into his mouth. I +do not recollect, however, meeting a gentleman in the +course of our journey who used tobacco in that way, +with that exception.</p> + +<p>In the grounds in front of the pavilion, where an +excellent orchestra of some one hundred performers +were playing, sat a very large and appreciative audience, +who applauded with discrimination, and were content +with the good performance of each piece.</p> + +<p>Our common rendezvous was the Surf Club, one of +the numerous convivial associations for which Coney +Island seems to be specially adapted; and I presume +the name had nothing at all to do with any supposed +amusements of the members in connection with the +surf on the beach outside. There was some difficulty +in finding our way through a labyrinth of rooms all +filled with guests: with corridors swarming with +people; with vast halls, where at hundreds of tables +there were seated people engaged in the consumption +of the <i>menu</i> of a Coney Island restaurant, abounding +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">129</a></span> +in strange dishes and attended by armies of waiters. +At a rough guess, I should say there may have been +about 4000 people in the building—and this was but +one of several—I think the Brighton Beach Hotel, +but of this I am not quite sure.</p> + +<p>When the Prospect Park and Coney Island Railroad +was opened none believed in its success, but the foresight +of the projector was justified; and when it was +found that respectable people would go there, if the +vagabonds of both sexes and their associates were +driven away, the police asserted themselves, and swept +off the gamblers and the others of a still more +dangerous class, who were to be found there in +increasing numbers every year; and then hotels were +erected and landing-places made for the steamers; +and now the electric light blazes in a hundred +halls, and music and rejoicing sound late into the +night, contending with the noise of the surf upon the +beach. Bowling-alleys, shooting-grounds, archery, +croquet, sailing and rowing, all invite some of the +visitors, according to their tastes. An amusing exemplification +of the ingenuity of American advertisers is +afforded by the sailing vessels, which display in enormous +characters on their main-sails the names of quack +medicines, from which no corner of this continent +appears to be safe.</p> + +<p>On June 24th the party, which had been somewhat +dislocated, reunited their scattered forces, and at +2 <span class="s08">P.M.</span> started by train after a little repose, for Newport, +R.I. It was a kind of holiday after our travels, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">130</a></span> +but somewhat out of place, for we were told the +Ocean House was scarcely ready; but we should not +have found it out, had we not been informed of the +fact. The newspapers had been on the alert, and soon +after the Duke's arrival visitors began to call and +invitations to pour in—some well-nigh irresistible, for +they included opportunities for experiences of bass-fishing.</p> + +<p><i>June 25th.</i>—Newport has not yet put on its festive +attire. It is not the season, and we ought not to be +here. Nevertheless it is still so pleasant, and so respectably +dull, that one enjoys it amazingly. After +breakfast we walked down to the seashore and sat +gazing on vacancy, and on three yellow ladies collecting +clams. Returning thence in a very hot sun, ran to +earth in the hotel where, presently, there were many +visitors; and how kind and anxious to please they +were! Mr. Fearing drove up later on the top of a drag, +and whirled us away to a charming fishing-box on the +shore, in order to judge for ourselves what bass-fishing +was like. It was a very pretty drive, and Mr. Fearing +handled his "four" as if he were bent on joining the +Coaching Club—not indiscreetly, as the horses were +not accustomed to going together, but with satisfactory +decision—and we all were landed without mishap by +the side of the road, close to one of the best-organised +sporting-boxes I have ever seen, built entirely for the +comfort and delectation of Mr. Fearing and two or +three friends who own the bass-fishing stands, at the +end of one of which a gentleman was then busily +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">131</a></span> +engaged in his pastime, for the sea comes rolling up +upon the rocks within some forty or fifty yards of the +sward of the green meadows on which the house is +placed. From it projects into the breakers a platform +supported on iron pillars, at the end of which there is +an enlargement of the structure to enable the fisherman +and his attendants to stand at their ease—the one +in hurling the bait and the other in preparing it. +And first, as a proof that the labour is not futile, there +was exhibited a terrible-headed monster with great +scales, which had been caught that morning by Mr. +Whipple—a bass of 57 lbs. weight, of which I think +the skull and jaws and gills must have weighed a third. +The fishing is not, as I found, to be done at once, but +needs a little practice. The art of casting consists in +the double operation of jerking the bait from the top +of a stiff rod, and checking the run of the line without +permitting it to overrun, which it is very apt to do in +an inexperienced hand, by a pressure of the thumb on +the reel, just sufficient to let the weight of the bait carry +out the hook to the farthest stretch of the jerk. The +rod, not more than eight or nine feet long, a work of +great art, and costly, is furnished with a reel, also very +expensive, containing a couple of hundred yards of +prepared line. At the end is a large single hook, +sometimes secured to a piece of piano-wire, as the +"blue fish" will cut through the strongest cord or +gut. To this is fixed a junk of fat oily fish, of which +supplies are kept in a basket close at hand, to be cut +up for ever and ever by the attendant, and ever and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">132</a></span> +anon pieces are chucked into the sea, and being of +a very unctuous nature, the oil rising to the top, floats +away on the surface of the water, and attracts the bass +within measurable distance of the platform. Captain +Fearing threw, Mr. Whipple threw, and the gentlemen +at the end of another pier emulated them, and pounds, +perhaps stones, of bait were thrown into the sea, but +the bass, which are capricious, like most fish, were not +to be caught; and so after a time we returned to the +cottage.</p> + +<p>I was, unfortunately, unable to accept an invitation +from one of the many hospitable gentlemen in Newport, +to go out and spend the evening on a desolate +island, where they are said generally to have exceedingly +good sport, in order to get up before sunrise the +following morning and essay my skill, or want of it, in +bass-fishing. Mr. Wright, an enthusiastic sportsman, +availed himself of a like invitation with great pleasure +and with many anticipations of delight, but on Monday +morning he returned weather-beaten back, and boot-less +and bass-less home, although he assured me he +enjoyed himself very much, and had very agreeable +company out at sea on the rock.</p> + +<p>The following day (June 26th) was cloudy and cool, +and all that was of rank and fashion in Newport went +to All Souls Church. There are many churches in +Newport, and in the height of the season, each is, I am +told, well filled on Sundays. And wonderful it is that +there is neither dissension nor controversy among the +congregations. They mingle together coming and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">133</a></span> +going, affording to me, who have been accustomed at +times to observe the manners and customs of my +country men and women on like occasions in Ireland +and elsewhere, ground for wonder, not unintermingled +with an ardent desire that we, nearer home, could learn +the secret of this moderation.</p> + +<p>Mr. Bridgman, our fellow-passenger in the "<i>Gallia</i>," +is enjoying his <i>villeggiatura</i> with his wife and family in +a pretty little cottage. We were very much pleased +indeed to renew our acquaintance with him, although +there was no scope for the display of his fine talents +as a salad-maker. It was not foggy enough for the +ladies, who delight in a thick and moist <i>brume</i> from +the Banks, and who sit at the open windows when it +comes on for the sake of their complexions, as it is +esteemed a sovereign cosmetic beyond Maydew or +Kalydor. Whether it be rightly credited with these +virtues or not, I can answer for the presence of many +fair ladies in church, and on their way to and fro in +the streets. We dined with Mr. and Mrs. Keene, who +reside in one of the best villas of the many charming +dwellings in Newport.</p> + +<p>The victories of the American horses in France and +England created an enthusiasm in the States almost as +intense as though they had been won by the national +fleets or armies. From one end of the Union to the +other the news was flashed the same day, and we saw the +names of the conquerors in large letters in every newspaper. +Unfortunately there came at the same time +reports of foul play to American competitors at the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">134</a></span> +hands of some English roughs, and there was a good +deal of heat caused by the objections taken to the +entry of the "Cornell Crew" at Henley. These international +contests should be very carefully conducted +and judiciously worked, or they will do more harm +than good, if indeed they do any good at all. The +injurious insinuations respecting the age of Foxhall +could but excite indignation in the minds of honourable +men against whom they were directed.</p> + +<p>There is a State House in the town, and there is +also a mansion occupied by Commodore Perry, but +the most useful inhabitant of the place appears to +have been one Abraham Touro, a Jew, who gave his +name to the park, a cemetery, a synagogue, and a +street. Altogether there is rather an old-world air +and look in the town; but one must go along the +Avenues to have an idea of the charms which lead so +many of the principal families of the Eastern States +to make the place a resort when they are not enjoying +the delights of travel in Europe, or that blissful +existence which endears Paris to our Transatlantic +relatives. Bellevue Avenue is bordered by a number +of very sprightly dwellings, of every order and disorder +of architecture, and rejoicing in all the extraordinary +richness and elaboration of American workmanship +in wood, each standing in a little park of its +own, generally rich with trees, shrubs, and an ornamental +garden. Several of these interiors, as we +had reason to know, were furnished in the very best +taste, and filled with objects of art, excellent examples +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">135</a></span> +of good masters, principally foreign, and articles +imported from all the corners of the globe. Of +an afternoon the ladies might be seen driving, in +very well turned-out carriages, to some rendezvous +where lawn-tennis or a picnic awaited them; and +altogether, even at this time of year, Newport +presented a picture of great refinement and comfort, +which enable the visitor to understand how attractive +it must be in the height of the season, and why it is +Americans are so fond of life in Rhode Island.</p> + +<p>I am not in a position to throw the smallest doubt +upon the statement that the mass of stones in the +form of a tower, ivy and moss covered, and evidently +the work of human hands, was not built by the hardy +Norsemen hundreds of years before the arrival of +Columbus. There are, moreover, people who declare +that the erection is due to a British governor of the +colony, when it was more prosperous as a commercial +resort, though not so fashionable as it is at present. +But American antiquaries take a great pleasure in +propping up the proofs which have been adduced of +Scandinavian enterprise and discovery on the continent, +many centuries before Vespuccius, Columbus, and +the English navigators lived.</p> + +<p>We dined on the evening of the 27th at the house +of Mr. Shattock, a gentleman of New York, who had +assembled a party of very pleasant people to meet the +Duke, and kindly hastened his dinner-hour to suit +our convenience, as we were obliged to go on board +the Fall River boat, which called at 9.30 <span class="s08">P.M.</span> to take +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">136</a></span> +up passengers for the Empire City. There was some +difficulty about getting cabins or state rooms as they +are called, but "Uncle Sam," who came from New +York to consort with us quietly, applied himself +diligently to telegraph wires, telephones, and the like, +and when the great steamer came alongside the wharf +our dormitories were ready. The night was calm and +fine. There was an excellent band, quite worthy of +being called an orchestra, on board, which played to +the delight of a large audience till it was bed-time. +As a "sight" for a foreigner, nothing could be more +striking than the vast saloon, brilliantly illuminated, +with hundreds of people on sofas, chairs, and benches, +reading or conversing in the intervals of the music, +and presenting infinite varieties of type and class, yet +all so orderly and well-behaved; and if you moved +quietly through the crowd, your ear caught many +strange languages interpolating the American speech—German, +French, Polish, Russian, Italian, and, perhaps +the natives would say, British. There is some +care observed in the locking up of cabins, and I believe +there are detectives and police on board the boats; +but it is said they do not look after the morals of the +passengers, and concern themselves only with vested +interests in portable property. There was no sea on, +and the only motion was caused by the beating of the +paddles and the throbbing of the engine, and early in +the morning of the next day we were at our quarters +in our comfortable hotel in the Fifth Avenue.</p> + +<p><i>June 29th.</i>—And yet more excursions. Bound by +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">137</a></span> +a long-standing engagement, a small detachment of our +party set out this evening to visit Mr. Barlow at his +country place, Long Island, which travellers, perhaps, +have not much occasion to see. The Mayor of New York +(Mr. Grace) and Mr. O'Gorman were on the steamer +which took the Duke, Mr. S. Ward, Mr. Hurlbut, and +our host down the Sound, and were introduced to us +by Mr. Barlow. The first-named gentleman I mentioned +in one of the early pages of this diary in connection +with the vigorous efforts to purify the civic +atmosphere made by him on his accession to office. I +learn that he has since obtained a large measure of +success, and let me hope corresponding thanks from +his fellow-citizens. Attacks on corrupt influences are +apt to receive lukewarm support from the politicians. +The power of the respectable classes, which hold aloof +from politics, is not large. Mr. Grace had more opposition +than help from his own countrymen, who have +been long nearly omnipotent in New York, and who +monopolise a large proportion of the civic offices and +employment. Mr. O'Gorman, one of the traversers +with O'Connell in the famous State trials, is one of the +leading lawyers of New York, and is held in much +respect by his fellow-citizens. The "old Country" is +still dear to him, but I seemed to gather from his +remarks that he shared in the distrust which American +lawyers generally expressed respecting the principle of +the Land Bill then under discussion as far as interference +with the law of contract—"the very foundation +of social life"—was involved. Glen Cove is +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">138</a></span> +a beautiful place, standing high above the level of +the sea, and commanding charming views of the +sound and of the opposite shore. It is surrounded +by trees, ornamented by woodland and fine natural +groves, broken up by ravines, through which trickle +streams of water. The mansion is furnished with +every comfort and luxury, and we had a garden to +saunter about in the morning, and a genial hostess to +talk to, and her fair daughter to sing for us, so that +it would have pleased us well to have made a longer +sojourn at Glen Cove. Here we passed two very +peaceful days, part of Wednesday and Thursday, and +in a pleasant drive with our host in the early morning +had some slight outlook on umbrageous Long +Island. "<i>O! si angulus iste!</i>" It is 115 miles long +and 14 miles broad, and quite big enough for me! +And there be deer in the woods and trout in the rivers, +and fish in all the creeks, and game in the wooded +lagoons, and forest, lake, and civilised life, and many +things to please the eye; and then the comet was so +good as to display his glories and his tail before +Glen Cove. But our time of departure from the States +was drawing near, and there were still things to be +done in New York, and many engagements to be kept, +ere we started on our homeward journey on July 2nd; +and at 12.35 on the 30th June the Duke and I took +the "cars" at a rural station, and reached New York +at 2.35, in time for a run through Tiffany's and some +little shopping and visiting. There was a dinner +arranged by "Uncle Sam" at "Sutherland's" in +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">139</a></span> +honour of the famous city restaurant. The house is +one of a type which has, I believe, disappeared in the +"City," where once flourished famous establishments +such as Williams' Beef Shop in the Old Bailey, Dolly's +in Paternoster Row, the Billingsgate Fish Ordinary, +Jacquet's, &c., like it in character. Great New Yorkers +do not disdain to cross the threshold, within which +they find admirable fare and excellent wines—the +national delights of clam chowder, clam soup, soft-shell +crabs, and many other Transatlantic delicacies—at +the far end of Broadway, still holding its own against +the fashionable restaurants. Of the party who dined +there with Chancellor Robertson and others in 1861, +only "Uncle Sam," Mr. S. Barlow, and I survive; but +the host, a granitic sort of man, with a kindly Scottish +heart warming the case inside, seems capable of +presiding over his feasts for another generation.</p> + +<p><i>July 1st.</i>—It was difficult to realise the idea that +this was our last day in America, but the truth was +forced on us by the practical duties of getting the +baggage ready and settling up generally, ending with +a dinner at the Turf Club, where we met Mr. Keene, of +Foxhall fame, who had also entertained us at Newport, +Mr. Jerome, Mr. Stuart, Mr. Travers, and other +fathers of the New York sporting world, which seems +very like our own, and had to drink madeira of all but +fabulous antiquity and excellence. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">140</a></span></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER VII.<br /> +RETURN TO EUROPE.</h2> + +<p class="chapsum"> +The "<i>City of Berlin</i>"—The Inman Line—The Service at Roche's +Point—Queenstown Discomforts—A sorry Welcome Home. +</p> + +<p><i>July 2nd.</i><a name="FNanchor_B" id="FNanchor_B" href="#Footnote_B" class="fnanchor">[B]</a>—Up at 5.30. The Duke, Lady Green, +Sir Henry, Mr. Wright, Edward, all engaged in the +transport department, with Mr. Trowbridge in observation; +incessant activity. The Queen Anne coach +was in readiness at 7.30, and in half an hour more we +were discharged at the Inman wharf. There was +a great flotilla—five large steamers leaving at the +same period for Liverpool, and there was the usual +throng at the landing-places of friends to bid "good-bye" +to those who were about to cross the Atlantic. +The steamer we had selected belonged to the Inman +line, and whatever there may have been wanting to +the eye on board, compared to the trimness and paint +of the Cunard steamers, there was nothing to regret +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">141</a></span> +in our accommodation or service. There were so many +passengers that the dining-saloon, illuminated by the +electric light—which was also used for the purpose of +lighting the engine-room and the lamps in the +corridors—would not contain them all at the same +time, and so there were two messes for dinner. Epergnes +filled with the most beautiful flowers were ranged in +order, and a rampant war-steed composed of white +roses was displayed on the table. I am not about +to give a log-book, or to trespass on the patience of +my readers by an account of such an ordinary event +as a passage home. The second day after we left New +York was the anniversary of Independence, July 4th, +and the day was duly celebrated by the citizens of the +United States, who constituted the large majority of +our fellow-passengers. The "stars and stripes" were +hoisted at the main, and the cabin was draped with +British and American flags. But there was no +speechifying, and the spread-eagle was content with +moderate flights; a recitation and a song or two, and +the fire of champagne corks, being the only indications +of an extraordinary festivity.</p> + +<p>About this time of the year the Atlantic, in the latitudes +which we traverse, is rather vexed of fogs; and +if one be disposed to low spirits, I know nothing which +weighs upon him more than the sound of the fog-horn. +But what must it be for the captain, who is perforce +obliged to go at full speed, or as near to it as he +can, with the expectation every moment of some startled +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">142</a></span> +cry from the bow "Sail right ahead!" Nor is it quite +out of the running that an iceberg may be taking a +sail across his course. Fortunately we had no experiences +of the kind; and as night was falling on the +10th July land was in sight.</p> + +<p>The lights of the Fastnet were seen through drifting +haze, and about 10 o'clock at night the "<i>City of +Berlin</i>" steamed through a rising sea, with a strong +beam wind, into the roadstead of Roche's Point, +burned her rockets, and laid-to for the steamer to +take the mails, and those passengers who had decided +to land, on shore.</p> + +<p>It was blowing freshly, and rain fell heavily; and +as we looked down from the lighted decks on the +murky water, and made out the tug as she paddled up +to us, rising and falling on the waves, we were seized +with reasonable misgivings as to the propriety of +leaving our ship and taking to such a craft. I am +bound to say that our experience more than amply +justified them.</p> + +<p>I am writing these lines with a very faint hope +that any amendment will be introduced, in consequence +of what I say, into the abominable service between the +American vessels off Roche's Point and Queenstown. +In fine weather and in daylight it is not of much +consequence, perhaps, what discomfort one may be +exposed to in a short passage to the shore; but to +affront women and children with the misery which +must be experienced at night time and in bad +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">143</a></span> +weather, in the steamers employed in the service, +is little short of barbarous, if it be not indeed altogether +so.</p> + +<p>After I had got down upon the deck of the little +steamer and surveyed the scene around me, I thought +that it would have been much wiser to have gone on +with my friends to Liverpool; but I had some engagements +in Ireland, and so had the experience I was glad +not to share with my fellow-passengers, on whom I +should have liked the old country to have made a +favourable impression. There was the great steamer, +with hundreds of waving hands, and the sound of +friendly voices bidding us "God speed," a blaze of +lights, and almost as steady as the solid earth, as the +horrible little tug puffed away, and, getting from +under her lee at once, encountered the swell. If she +could have ridden over the water below, she certainly +could not escape that which came down from above; +so that we were all pretty wet and cross and miserable +in the half-hour which elapsed before we reached the +shore. Fortunately, there were not many passengers +who availed themselves of the opportunity; but the +deck of the steamer was crowded by poor people +returning to their native country. Accommodation +for the cabin passengers, except seats on the wet and +sloppy decks, there was none. There was a little +cabin, stuffy and comfortless, and moreover occupied +by a couple of women who had come out to see friends +by way of a pleasure excursion, and who were suffering +the last extremities of sea-sickness. The spray +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">144</a></span> +broke over the luggage and passengers; it was in such +circumstances that the custom-house officers began +their search. One of them, opening my bag, which +was unlocked, found a small revolver. It was unloaded, +and there was no ammunition for it; but, +nevertheless, it was seized, for I was "importing arms +into a proclaimed district without licence." A similar +mishap occurred to a Spanish officer, who was not +quite so easily appeased as I was by the assurance +that the arm would be given up on proper application +to the police. His revolver, he insisted, was part of +his uniform, a necessity of his existence, and the +authorities might as well seize his epaulettes or spurs. +However, my deadly weapon was restored to me some +days afterwards, after a correspondence with the custom-house, +and I dare say the Hidalgo was equally +fortunate. These were incidents to denote that we +were in the midst of trouble. There was but a sorry +welcome for us when we landed at Queenstown. Not a +car to be found, that I could see; but there were a few +porters, and the agent of the hotel at the pier; and, +commending my luggage to his care, I walked to the +establishment. It surely cannot be quite an unaccustomed +event for a steamer to arrive at Queenstown at +that time of night! The last train for Cork had gone; +and it might have been expected that lighted rooms +and some sort of preparation would have awaited +the travellers; for every vessel that touches at Queenstown, +coming from America, surely lands a few people +needing rest and refreshment? A demoralised waiter, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">145</a></span> +who appeared to think that such a thing had never +happened in the whole course of his experience, as +the inroad of ten or twelve people asking for supper +and bedrooms, informed us that nothing could be done +until the gentleman who represented the hotel at the +landing-place had arrived; and so we sat on the stairs +for half an hour, and were then shown into a gaunt +room, dimly lighted by gas. There was nothing +ready. The hungry people, by dint of patience and +perseverance, eventually succeeded about midnight in +obtaining some poor substitute for supper and scrambled +to their beds.</p> + +<p>I mention the circumstances in which my fellow-passengers +and I were landed at Queenstown, that +those who are interested in promoting the welfare of +the port, and in making the route through Ireland less +thoroughly objectionable, may take steps to obviate +the great inconvenience to which travellers at present +are certainly exposed.</p> + +<p>Next morning I reached Mallow. I was but a few +hours in the "distressful country," but I found that +things had gone from bad to worse while we were in +the States. I heard from my fellow-travellers in the +train that "Boycotting" had attained such a pitch in +the South, that all the relations and conditions of +social life were exposed to peril, if not destruction. +And still, with the usual cheerfulness of Irish landlords, +accustomed, as it were, to these excesses of the +popular will, my informants talked of hunting, fishing, +and shooting; and I heard full accounts of the state of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">146</a></span> +the rivers, and of the take of fish which had made some +of them happy. The County Cork, indeed, had nearly +a parallel in the "wild West." But what a contrast +between the state of public feeling, in respect to the +outrages which were perpetrated in each, in the country +we had left, and that to which I had returned! In +the United States there was no attempt to justify the +men who were guilty of such deeds. In Ireland it +was impossible to obtain evidence or to convict the +offenders. I am not going to close this narrative of +our little excursion with a political disquisition, indeed +I have not the materials for forming any opinion respecting +the breadth and depth of what may be called +the Irish national movement in the United States; +but there seems to be a general vague impression in +America that as the British Government was not very +wise and equitable in its dealings with the people of +the thirteen colonies in the reign of King George, it +is, somehow or other, at the present moment, treating +with harshness and injustice the whole of the Irish +race in Ireland. It is impossible not to recognise the +fact that the head, perhaps the heart, and certainly +the purse of this development of Irish discontent are in +the United States. The arms, the body, and the legs +are in Ireland. During the whole time of our visit, +although we visited towns where eminent orators were +lecturing upon Irish subjects, and where representatives +of the League were in session, there was not a +trace brought home to us of the strong sympathy which +undoubtedly exists in many American cities with the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">147</a></span> +movement in Ireland. There were accounts of the +meetings in the newspapers, and now and then a few +leading articles on the subject; but we might have +concluded, from what we saw and heard generally, +that the Irish question was of far less importance to +the American people than the religious views of Colonel +Ingersoll, or the discussions between the railway companies +respecting their fares. The recital of wrongs, +most of which have been long ago redressed, still +reaches the ear and touches the heart of the American +public, and if the Irish population had not in many +ways provoked or excited the antagonism of the native +Americans in the towns, and of the Teutonic element +which exercises such a powerful influence in the +country, there would be far greater sympathy for the +supposed oppression of the Sister Island by England. +The fact that emigrants come from Europe is accepted +as a proof that the countries which they leave are ill-governed; +and Americans, in dealing with the emigration +question, are apt to forget the existence and nature +of the forces which induced their own ancestors to seek +homes in the New World.</p> + +<p>The <i>New York Times</i> declared in an article last +June, that there is no essential difference between the +two divisions of the Irish in America and of the Irish +in Ireland. The voyage across the Atlantic works no +transformation in Pat, and he is still as much an +Irishman after his plunge into an alien civilisation +and taking out his papers as when he stood on the old +sod in Meath or Tipperary. "He cares no more for +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">148</a></span> +the American eagle than for an owl; but a sprig of +shamrock stirs him to ecstasy. The name of Washington +has no meaning for his ear; but that of St. Patrick +is a living and potent reality." That statement, however, +must be taken with qualification. There are +to-day 90,000 acres of land in Minnesota as thoroughly +Irish as if they were planted in the centre of Connaught. +There are Pats and Pats. Many of the +most wealthy and prosperous merchants, bankers, and +landowners whom we met in the West were not merely +of Irish extraction, but born Irishmen, and the extraordinary +spectacle of Irish millionaires who knew how +to keep their money, and to add to it, too, may be seen +in San Francisco and elsewhere in the West. Many, +less fortunate, have high positions either in the army, or +as politicians, or in the estimation of all that is great +and good in America—such as Mr. O'Conor—men who +have held aloof from politics, and who could not be +tempted, even by the Presidentship, to enter the arena +of party strife. One convicted rebel of 1840 now +occupies a leading place at the American bar. I heard +him denounce the Land Bill in terms he might have +used in denouncing the atrocities of the Saxon in his +hot days when O'Connell was king. The influence +which has been acquired in many parts of the Union +by the Irish immigration and by the descendants of +immigrants has naturally excited at various times the +opposition and indignation of the American born, and it +has always been more or less opposed by the Teutons +of different nationalities who occupy such a powerful +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">149</a></span> +position in all the great States of the West. But "the +Native Party" is now either dead or sleeping. A very +distinguished officer and politician said to me that he had +at one time been a most eager and ardent adherent of +the policy of the Native American Party, but that when +he saw how earnestly and devotedly the Irish had come +forward in defence of the Union, how brilliantly they had +fought, and how recklessly they had sacrificed their lives, +in 1861, he felt constrained to abandon his principles, +and to admit their free right to all the privileges of +American citizenship. I could not, however, but recollect +that General Richard Taylor, in his most +amusing, able, and graphic work on that same war, +from the Confederate side of the question, bore the +strongest testimony to the services of the Irish in the +army which fought under the banner of the Slave +States. In New York and in San Francisco the Irish +element has exercised almost supreme control in municipal +matters, and it may be said, without offence I +hope, that, whether it be owing to the opposition they +have encountered or to a radical deficiency which may +be Irish rather than Celtic, their management has +not conduced to the comfort of the cities or to the +pecuniary purity of the Executive. In San Francisco +there is a strong anti-Irish press and much anti-Irish +feeling. The 'Argonaut' repudiates the thraldom +of the Irish associations and factions in the Far West +as strenuously as the 'Times' and 'Tribune' do in the +East. But notwithstanding all that may be written +and done, it is impossible to resist the influence of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">150</a></span> +numbers under a system of suffrage so large as that +which exists in the greater number of the American +States. It was curious to read in a Californian paper +an appeal to England to suppress Irish agitation. +"We confidently believe," says the <i>Argonaut</i>, "that +the wisdom of its public men, the healthful condition +of its public opinion, and the strength of its military +power will be sufficient to crush out the Land League +movement, which is but incipient rebellion. That +England will deal justly, firmly, and successfully with +this effort of united ecclesiasticism and Communism is +the earnest wish of every intelligent and independent +mind that believes in free government, the guarantees +of property, the rights, and the personal liberty of man." +However, there are American parties, if not statesmen, +whose wishes are by no means directed to such a consummation, +and we must take note of the fact. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">151</a></span></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER VIII.<br /> +SOME GENERAL REFLECTIONS.</h2> + +<p class="chapsum"> +Education—Free Schools—Influence of Money in Politics—Corruption +in Public Life—Crime on the Western Borders—The Great +Rebellion—Anniversaries—Great courtesy to strangers—Manners +and Customs. +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poem"> +<p class="o1">"Westward the course of Empire takes its way;</p> +<p class="i1">The four first acts already past,</p> +<p>A fifth shall close the drama with the day,</p> +<p class="i1">Time's noblest offspring is the last."</p> +</div></div> + +<p>The "tar-water Bishop of Cloyne" would have been +exceedingly astonished could he have seen the first +line of his prophecy or averment made to do duty as a +motto to Mr. Bancroft's History of the United States; +but surely if the prophecy be not realised, it will be +the fault of the agencies engaged in working it out—never +in the history of mankind, as we know it, have +such advantages been enjoyed by any nation as have +been, and are, the appanage of the Americans of +European origin in the New World. They have +leaped into the possession of their heritage full armed, +like Minerva from the brain of Jove. For them have +all the champions of human rights died or conquered, +and the protagonists of human struggles for liberty +and light fought. For them Science has trimmed her +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">152</a></span> +lamp—for them martyrs have died—for them Europe +and Asia have been in toil and travail for countless +generations, and they have been guided across the +sea to a grand continent where it would seem as if +Nature had been engaged for myriads of ages to provide +for their happiness and grandeur—all climes and +all products are theirs—the bounteous plain, the ore-filled +mountain, the treasures of the deep, the heaven-made +ways by lake and river, and it would be a +despair for all mankind if they misuse their glorious +inheritance, and if all the nations of the world see +that the pillar of fire in the west was but an <i>ignis +fatuus</i> dancing before their aching eyes in a Serbonian +bog of creeds and 'isms, of factions and faiths, all +struggling towards the gate of the Temple of Mammon. +"Philosophers," in all the doubts and fears +which the condition of the Republic inspires at times, +cling with confidence to the palladium which is, they +think, to be found in the system of education based +on the free schools of the States. If there were not a +distinction between knowledge and morality, they +would be justified; but the Evil One tempted us to +eat of the fruit of the tree which brought sin into the +world, and if Americans are to be trusted as authorities, +the result of the largest and most liberal system of +education ever devised is not as happy in practice as +it ought to be according to theory.</p> + +<p>As the central Government extended its sway over +the Territories there was a uniform system, when assigning +land for public objects to railway companies, of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">153</a></span> +retaining for the School Fund a portion of the land in +each Territory, as it was settled and admitted as such, +under the control of the central Government. In the +States Constitutions creating Sovereign States, there +are provisions inserted, varying very little in language +and not at all in spirit, which render it compulsory +on the Legislature of each State to maintain public +schools free to all the children of the people residing +within its borders. Another principle, of universal +application, provided that all schools under public +control should be free from sectarian or denominational +teaching, in the schools or in the books used for educational +purposes. With such safeguards for the extension +of education, it is depressing to find that, in +certain districts at all events, crime and immorality +prevail in the United States as extensively as in the +benighted kingdoms of the Continent of Europe. But +the most serious consideration in connection with the +system of common schools in America, is the fact that +serious doubts are intruding themselves respecting the +success of it. In a recent official report it was stated +that whereas the children who ought to go to school +numbered about fourteen and a half millions, the +average attendance was not more than five millions. +But, assuming that all the children went to school, +there are people who declare that the education given +under the National system is by no means satisfactory. +Mr. R. G. White affirms that the system is a failure; +and high authorities assert that "any comparison between +the results obtained in the public schools of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">154</a></span> +New York, Cincinnati, and Boston, with those of such +public grammar schools of England, as Bedford, Manchester, +and the City of London, is simply ridiculous." +The teachers are continually shifting, and when the +teachers, as they do in this land of liberty, go away, +the schools are deserted, the constant services of a staff +cannot be retained unless there is very considerable +increase in the rate of payment now made to the male +and female teachers. None of these in any State have, +I think, more than about 9<i>l.</i> per month. Mr. White +says that "the mass of the pupils of the public schools +are unable to read intelligently, to spell correctly, to +write legibly, to describe the geography of their own +country, or do anything that reasonably well educated +children do with ease; and they cannot write a simple +letter, they cannot do readily a simple sum in practical +arithmetic, they cannot tell the meaning of any but +the commonest of words they read and spell so ill. +They can give rules glibly, they can recite from +memory, they have some dry knowledge of the various +ologies and osophies, they can, some of them, read a +little French or German with very bad accent; but, as +to all real education, they are as helpless and as +barren as if they had never crossed the threshold of a +schoolhouse." It is from American writers that these +accusations against the common school system are to +be gleaned. Some statisticians say that crime and +pauperism are increasing far more rapidly than population. +The charge on the State for punishing criminals +and keeping paupers last year was $20,000,000, or +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">155</a></span> +£4,000,000; but it is too much to attribute crime and +pauperism to the defects of the schools. It might +with more reason be argued that the teaching of the +people in the schools tends to develop the looseness +and eccentricity of thought, where there is no religious +teaching, which are exemplified in the uprising of extraordinary +sects and strange philosophies; for America +is the land of spiritualists, mesmerism, soothsaying, +and mystical congregations. Mr. Hepworth Dixon +may not be a perfectly unimpeachable authority on +the subject of the number of spiritualists in America; +but there can be no question they are to be counted by +millions. It is averred that believers in spirits generally +believe in "special affinities which imply a spiritual +relation of the sexes higher and holier than that of +marriage." It is not wonderful then that there should +be also a very large number of divorces, especially +in the New England States. Mr. Nutting says that +"in the history of nations there has never but thrice +occurred such a breaking up of the family tie as is +now taking place, especially in Rhode Island and Connecticut, +among the people of New England blood." +Mormonism, although of American origin and early +growth, has been mainly successful by the constant +importation of ignorant peasants from Europe.</p> + +<p>There is a want of reverence on the part of children +towards their parents which is very striking. Americans +who have admitted and deplored this have sought +to account for it by the school system, wherein the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">156</a></span> +State usurps the place of the parent, and teaches the +young idea to mock at any authority but that of the +schoolmaster. It would be lamentable to have to +admit that free education is associated with the +weakening of parental influence. Theoretically, there +is nothing in the American system to prevent the +teaching of religious and moral duties by parents at +home; but it would seem as if very little of that kind +of instruction was given by the busy fathers and +anxious mothers of the Republic, and that when the +day's work is done at school, and some time given to +the preparation of the studies for the day to follow, +there is no further teaching.</p> + +<p>I do not think the rule "By their fruits shall ye +know them" can be applied to the public schools, in +connection with the prevalence of crime, immorality, +unbelief, or eccentric religion. But it is certain the +system has not by any means secured that high level +of general education, or what education is supposed to +bring with it, which its friends claim for it in the +States. There is reason to believe that the standard +of morality has not been uniformly high in the political +world, and that in the public intelligence the judiciary +does not aspire to an absolute immunity from suspicion. +Even in the old settled States, legislators from +time to time may be found, who, seated among the +good and wise, excite admiration akin to that which is +aroused by the spectacle of a fly in amber. It has +been observed by travellers that whatever affection +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">157</a></span> +may exist in families, it does not attain that keen +sensibility and lasting power which is found in French +domestic life.</p> + +<p>When American newspapers of the greatest influence +and circulation write invectives against the corruption +which prevails in places high and low, when writers +of great intelligence and known character contribute +similar articles to periodicals which possess the highest +position in the literary world of America, a stranger +may be permitted perhaps to say a few words respecting +the impression produced upon his mind by what +he heard and read on the subject when he was in the +country, without it being alleged that he attempts to +assail the principles of free government, or to make +invidious charges or wholesale accusations against a +nation. I know too well the force with which Americans +could retort if they were so minded, and how +they could point to the reports of election judges +which set forth the prevalence of extensive bribery, +led to the suspension of writs, and will perhaps end in +the disfranchisement of some ancient and populous +boroughs and constituencies in England, and to the +speeches of Sir Henry James in Parliament, to cast +any stone out of my glass house on that score; but I +do not think it can be established that persons in a +position at all analogous to that of the members of +a State Legislature have been purchased wholesale in +England, Ireland or Scotland, or that even a complete +Borough Corporation had been bought up. Now, +nothing was more common in the Far West than to +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">158</a></span> +hear it stated openly that Senator So-and-so had +bought his place, and that Mr. So-and-so had purchased +a State Legislative body in order to "get +through" some railway or other scheme. That was +accepted in fact as a matter of course, and not contradicted +or questioned by any one. We heard from +time to time of the sums which So-and-so would +expend to buy his senatorship, and of the money +actually paid to secure the passage of a line from the +legislature of O—— and the like, whilst stories relating +to the purchase of judges were common in the conversation +of the hotels and cars.</p> + +<p>I do not aver that these stories were true. I only +know that they passed current and were not challenged +by those who were around us. "Thoughtful persons," +who exist in the United States as well as in the +vicinity of Pall Mall clubs, lament, deplore and hate the +evils of growing corruption with all the fervour of +honest and powerless natures. The mechanism is +scarcely concealed. It stands before the world with less +attempt at disguise than the gallows in the gaol. Mr. +Parton, in the 'North American Review' of this July, +writing on the power of public plunder, says: "At +present, in the ninety-fifth year of the Constitution, +we are face to face with a state of politics of extreme +simplicity, of which money is the motive, the means and +the end. What was the last Presidential election but a +contest of purses? The longest purse carried the day, +and it carried the day because it was the longest. +Some innocent readers perhaps have wondered why the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">159</a></span> +famous orators who swayed vast multitudes day after +day and night after night, have not been recognised in +the distribution of office. They were paid in cash from +ten dollars a night to a thousand dollars a week." And +then he goes on to describe the business in detail, and +to show what this power is. He says: "There is a +boss in the city of New York who will take a contract +for putting a gentleman into Congress. Pay him so +much and you may go to sleep, wake up and find yourself +member elect. A boss is a man who can get to +the polls on election days masses of voters who care +little or nothing for the issues of the campaign and +know of them still less. They operate upon the +strangers in the land who are unable to use its +language and are unacquainted with its politics." +Mr. Parton describes with humour one of these +"bosses," an improvement on the pugilists and cormorant +thieves of a remote period. "The Emerald Isle +gave him birth; the streets of New York, education. +To see the brawny, good-tempered Irishman walking +abroad in his district when politics are active is to get +an idea of how the chief of a clan strode his native +heath when a marauding expedition was on foot. He +lives in a handsome house, and has more property than +any man has ever been able to get by legitimate service +to the United States. He treats his dependants and +retainers nobly, but as the agent and organiser of +spoliation he is a prey to every minor scoundrel, for +at certain seasons he dare not say no to any living +creature. And yet it requires tact, self-possession +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">160</a></span> +and resource to move about among needy people with +a pocket full of money, an embodied "yes," and have +some of it left after the election. The strikers, as +they are called, go for solid cash now instead of target +companies and clambakes for which the candidates +paid the bills." "Money, money," exclaims Mr. Parton, +"everywhere in politics, in prodigal abundance, money, +except where it could secure and reward good service +for the public, hecatombs for the wolves, precarious +bones for the watchdogs." The details in the article +are precise, and if they are to be trusted it may be +doubted whether the claims of the United States to +possess a cheap government can be maintained, for it +is not cheap to pay responsible executive officers a +precarious pittance per annum if now and then it costs +a million dollars to change them. Mr. Secretary Blaine +has thrice declared that the election in October 1880 +in the State of Maine, a model New England State, +was carried by money. His opponents declared that +he and his party were as bad, and that they too +flooded the towns with money. What renders the +situation more dangerous is the fact that the men who +provide the money for running these enormously expensive +political combinations are either seekers after, +or holders of, office, and the inference is that they seek +to control Government, or, as Mr. Parton puts it, that +"the Government is coming to be rather an appendage +to a circle of wealthy operators than a restraint upon +them." That is indeed a serious proposition, and the +result of observation goes to support the idea that it +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">161</a></span> +is valid. The small man is in office, but the big man, +his master, is outside. The mischief is brought prominently +forward in connection with the sale of public +lands in the North-West, which have been claimed as +the heritage of the people, and indeed of all the +nations of the world. The government land attracted +the hardy labour of all countries, covering the western +west with thriving towns and populous counties. But +now the prairies are skinned by rich men, by "land-grabbers," +people who buy up tracts of twenty thousand +or thirty thousand acres wherever they can lay their +hands upon them, evading the law and filling the +western world with roving labourers who work on +these prodigious farms in summer and starve in winter. +This is, we are told, the result of "government by +lobby."</p> + +<p>Occasionally there is an exceeding great and bitter +cry over all this from the depths of the body politic. +Some great paper in a moment of deep mental agony +publishes an article like that, to which I have called +attention, by Mr. Parton; occasionally some preacher, +nobly daring, thinks it necessary to direct attention, +from his pulpit, to the progress of corruption. Dr. +Talmage delivered a very remarkable discourse whilst +I was in America on the text from Job. xv. 34: "Fire +shall consume the tabernacles of bribery." Although +I do not profess exactly to understand to what particular +sect he belongs, he is one of the leaders of +religious thought, dividing with Beecher and others +the popular favour in the Empire City. The State +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">162</a></span> +buildings at Albany ought to be heavily insured if the +reverend gentleman's vaticinations are right. It was +an American discourse. I cannot give the whole +oration. The people of the Brooklyn Tabernacle were +presented with a muster-roll of the people who had +distinguished themselves amongst the great ones of +the world. Cobden, Brougham, O'Connell and Rowland +Hill were placed in juxtaposition as leaders on our +side of the water. Of course it was impossible to resist +the allusion to Francis Bacon and to Macclesfield; but +it was scarcely correct to say that the Lord Chancellor +Whiteberry—I presume a misprint for Westbury—"perished," +nor do I quite understand what the preacher +meant by the awful tragedy of the <i>Credit Mobilier</i>. +Washington, Ben Butler, and John McClean were +linked together for the benefit of Americans. They +were, Dr. Talmage declared, great politicians, but "out +of politics there has come one monstrous sin, potent +and pestiferous, its two hands rotten with leprosy, its +right hand deep in its breeches pocket. This is bribery." +Dr. Talmage called upon the American people to judge +the crime. "Under the temptation of this sin," he +exclaimed, "Benedict Arnold sold the fort in the +Highlands for thirty-one thousand three hundred and +seventy-five dollars; Gorgy betrayed Hungary, Ahitophel +forsook David, Judas killed Christ. I think," he +says, "when I see the strong men who have gone +down, of the Red Dragon in Revelation, having seven +heads and ten horns, and seven crowns upon its head, +drawing the third part of the stars of heaven after it." +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">163</a></span> +And therefore he proceeds to preach against bribery. +He thought it was the right time, "because the Legislature +in New York is busy in investigating charges +of bribery. The whole country woke up in holy horror +at the charge that two thousand dollars had been +offered to influence a vote in the Legislature, as if +this was something new; as though in one State nine +hundred and seventy-five thousand dollars had not +been paid a legislator of the State Government by a +railway company to get its charter and secure a dedication +of public lands; as though three-quarters of +the legislators of the United States had not, through +bribery, gone into putrefaction whose stench reached +heaven. After a few weeks' hunting the squirrel has +stolen the hickory nut. Gentlemen in New York hunt +out wrong by day and play poker and old sledge at +night at Delavan House. It was like the country +which had spent six millions of dollars in lawsuits +about William Tweed going suddenly into hysterics +when it found out that he had stolen a box of steel pens. +California is submerged in the grip of a great monopoly; +in Kansas United States senators had been involved +in charges of bribery; in Connecticut an election to +Congress was bought as men might buy a box of strawberries. +Last year they were convicted of attempting +bribery in Pennsylvania, but the Court of Pardons +liberated them with the exception of two judges, who +were told that they would be cut off from political +preferment for their obstinacy. A Pennsylvania United +States senator used to put a price on legislators just +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">164</a></span> +as a Kentuckian puts a price on his horse." But it was +not legislators alone that Dr. Talmage attacked. He +declared that the railways, the common carriers of the +country, were tainted by a favouritism which was, in +fact, the result of bribery. One company made rebates +in its fares to some favoured corporation, as in the case +of a petroleum company, which was enabled to control +the price of that light all over the world in consequence +of a virtual monopoly that was given to it by arrangement +with the railway. In the same way merchandise +in grain, provisions, and cattle are placed in the hands +of a few firms. "How much," asks Dr. Talmage, "did it +cost the Elevated Railroad to keep the fare from dropping +to five cents from ten cents? I have been told," +said he, "three hundred thousand dollars," which is +60,000<i>l.</i> "Very seldom does a bill pass through any of +our Legislatures if there be no money in it. Sometimes +the bribery is in bank bills, sometimes in railroad +passes, sometimes in political preferment, sometimes +by the monopolies given to the legislators, what are +called points, a corner, a flier, a cover, washing the +street, salting down, ten up! If you want to know +what these are, ask the bribed members at Albany and +Harrisburg." Then he goes on, with some truth, to +declare that the bribery begins far away behind all this; +that it is really with the money subscribed for election +expenses that the evil begins its course. "From the +big reservoirs of subscribed election expenses the little +rills roll down in ten thousand directions, and by the +time the great gubernatorial, congressional, and presidential +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">165</a></span> +elections are over, the land is drunk with +bribery." Perhaps it is quite as well that it is from +an American orator and from an American writer such +statements and such indictments proceed, rather than +from a stranger like myself; but it is very clear that +the evil which De Tocqueville indicated long ago has +spread rather than diminished, and there is reason to +think that it will do so until the public conscience of +a great people is aroused to a sense of the enormity +of the mischief. But it lies far down towards the base +of the national institutions, and any attempt to extirpate +it will fail until the doctrines of the "Spoils to +the Victors" be rejected from the political catechism, +and the interests of party made the means and not +the end of political life.</p> + +<p>The letters which appeared in the <i>Morning Post</i>, +written under the influence of the surprise and anger +I felt at the extent and impunity of crimes of violence +and the state of feeling, or want of it, respecting them +in the West, were badly received in America, and +were severely handled by a few papers, as I was +informed; I expected that the mention of the subject +would not prove agreeable, though I guarded +myself most sedulously from a single offensive word—nay, +went out of my way to palliate the offences +against life and living, and to excuse the people +who allowed them, whilst I most carefully drew the +line—a broad one—between these border ruffians and +the law-abiding, virtuous people of the settled States. +I was not, however, prepared for misrepresentation. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">166</a></span> +One would have thought that I accused the +kind hosts who had received us—our generous entertainers +in so many cities—the courteous, polished +gentlemen who accompanied us—of murder and robbery, +and ascribed to them the brutal murders committed +by Canty or the Kid. As I quoted chapter +and verse, and as the papers which vilified me could not +deny the statements, they wrote that I had been imposed +upon by the vivid fancy—in other phrase, the +deliberate lying—of their brother editors in the West. +One organ had the effrontery to declare that the Duke +of Sutherland expressed his delight at the kind and +courteous treatment of the ruffians I denounced; +adding, "somebody lied—it was not the Duke." No. +It was not indeed! A friend sent me one of these, +and below an article in which it was said that I might +take my place "beside Basil Hall, Mrs. Trollope, and +Dickens for libelling the people of the United States," +and that my stories were all inventions, there was a +pregnant commentary as follows:—"Sunday, July +17th: Daring Train Robbery; Bandits Boarding +Chicago, Rock Island, and Pacific Cars; The Conductor +and a Passenger Shot Dead, and the Safe in +the Express Car Robbed; the Passengers Saved by a +Brakeman."</p> + +<p>I hope it will not be imagined that I have any +desire to cast obloquy on the grand efforts, supremely +successful as they have been, to turn the prairie and +the desert to the uses of civilised man and of the +world, and to open up the Western Continent to +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">167</a></span> +humanity and civilisation. I am too sensible of the +courtesy, ready service, and hospitality everywhere accorded +to the party of English travellers of which I +was one, to write one word which I thought calculated +to give pain or offence to any of our many friends or +to any right-minded American. <i>Maculæ solis!</i> 'Tis a +pity they are there! In a few years, perhaps, the +memory that such things were will have passed away +like the recollection of some evil dream. But public +sentiment must make itself felt, and above all there +must be some abatement of the maudlin sympathy, +which is virtually on the side of crime, if it be active +in averting punishment.</p> + +<p>Crime in America, especially in the Eastern States, +is very much the same as it is in other countries, +but in the far West there is more recklessness in +dealing with human life, which, in spite of the Howard +Society and of humanitarians, I believe to be connected +with the indulgence extended under State laws +by American judges and juries to criminals who +appear to be deserving of nothing but the strict and +unmitigated application of the rope. "Property" is +safe, for the citizens hunt down with extraordinary +energy marauders whose object is simply plunder. +Ordinary robbers and gangs of burglars are speedily +and summarily suppressed. It is otherwise with those +who assail life and limb. The desperadoes who infest +the "saloons," as they are called, with which every +western settlement is sure to be provided as soon as +the shingle roofs are placed on the earliest upheaval +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">168</a></span> +of deal planks which can be called a dwelling, have +far greater immunity and freedom than burglars or +robbers. Wherever the train stopped for water on +our journey in New Mexico, Western Colorado, or +Eastern California, a rectangular wooden box, with +a verandah, open doors, windows screened by a +muslin curtain, perhaps a flagstaff with the Stars and +Stripes flying, a large signboard, and some high-sounding +name—the "Grand Alliance," "Union +League," "El Dorado," "Harmonium," "Arcadia," or +the like—was visible, with the usual group of booted +and bearded miners, and their horses hitched up at the +door-posts in front; inside you would be certain to +find men of the same class at a bar, behind which, +known for miles around, the affable Charlie, Bill, or Bob +was dispensing drinks and mixing cocktails, slings, and +the other drinks, in which the badness of the spirit is +artfully disguised by a stimulant of a more active +character and more pronounced flavour, known as +"bitters," and kept in subjugation by the liberal use +of ice. For even in these burning regions ice is +stored up as the one thing needful. The rudest miner +is accustomed to it; iced drinks are consumed by +classes in America far below the social level of those +who never taste them in this country.</p> + +<p>As the train was halting at Colorado Springs the +stewards engaged in an animated discussion respecting +a certain erection of poles and rafters just visible +in an adjacent field. "I tell you dat's it." "I say +tidn't." They were discussing the probability of the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">169</a></span> +scaffolding being the gallows whereon "Canty, the +Buena Vista murderer," was to be hanged the day +after. On April 29th, last year, Mr. Canty was +standing on the platform in front of Lake-house +with "Johnny the Ham," "Curly Frank," and "Off +Wheeler," when Thomas Perkins appeared in an alley +opposite, endeavouring "to induce 'Dutch Bill' to go +with him to the office of Justice Casey, who had +deputised him for the purpose." Canty and his companions +at once ran across and demanded his release. +Before Perkins could answer, Canty fired and missed +him. The second shot wounded Perkins in the arm; +the latter drew his pistol, but before he could use it +Canty fired; the ball shattered the constable's hand. +"For God's sake," he exclaimed, "is there no policeman +to help me?" He fell, and Canty, walking close +to his side, coolly sent a bullet through his body. He +was arrested, tried, and convicted. His counsel applied +to the Supreme Court for a <i>supersedeas</i>, but the court, +after solemn argument, refused the application. Then +they applied to the Governor of the State, but Mr. +Pitkin, though "a weak-kneed man," would neither +grant a reprieve nor a commutation to imprisonment +for life. There was, he said, no ground "to set aside a +verdict of a competent jury and the district judge +reviewed and approved of by the Supreme Court." In +the very last hour a woman came forward, and the +Denver paper gave <i>verbatim et literatim</i> the text of the +document in which ... "with dew regard," she offered +Sheriff Spangler $50,000 (10,000<i>l.</i>) to save the life of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">170</a></span> +W. H. Canty, her cousin, whose real name was, she said, +N. H. Salisbury. "I entreat you to have him spared +till you have an interview with me." She added that +"Jennings and his brother in Leadville would pay a +still larger sum. You may have ample means for +life," &c. A gentleman of the press, who came into +our train at South Arkansas, was present at the execution. +Just before the drop fell, Canty, who had expressed +complete confidence in his ultimate liberation +till the day before his execution, spoke for fifteen +minutes, protesting his innocence. Then he exclaimed, +"Good-bye, nothing can save me. I have faith in the +Saviour and a hereafter." The trap was sprung, but +to the horror of every one, the rope broke at the beam. +The murderer's neck, however, was dislocated, and "a +happy relief was experienced" when it was found he +had died a painless death. As he was the nephew of +an eminent statesman it was expected his friends would +take action as to the disposal of his remains, which +were put "in a neat casket at the sheriff's expense." +In the journal there was a woodcut of the murderer. +"Before his likeness could be taken holes were bored +in the door and Canty was lashed to it, and then, when +the door was set upright, the photographer watched a +favourable opportunity when the head and eyes were +quiet and secured the impression" from which the +engraving was made. He was not so fortunate as +Frank Gilbert, who was sentenced to be hanged the +following day for a brutal murder, but respited, "in +order that the proceedings may be reviewed by the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">171</a></span> +highest judicial tribunal," by Governor Pitkin at the +last moment, "till July 29," the day on which Rosencrantz +is now sentenced to be hanged. The sheriff, +Judge Ward, the clerk of the court, and the prosecuting +attorney joined with others in petitions to the +governor on the ground that the Supreme Court judges +had refused a <i>supersedeas</i> in consequence of the defects +and informalities of the record of the proceedings in +the court below. Rosencrantz was respited, and the +public, who had been expecting a double execution on +the 18th of June, were disappointed, although they +were allowed to slake their curiosity by the sight of +the condemned men and by testing the ropes in the +prison enclosure where the scaffold was ready. In the +paper which gave the text of Governor Pitkin's +reprieve there was a heading "Done Brown. Al. +Huggins, marshal of Recene, turns out a bad man. +He shoots and fatally wounds officer Brown of Kokomo." +Phil. Foote, constable of Kokomo, formerly marshal of +Robinson, and Al. Huggins, marshal of Recene, it seems +had spent the night in visiting the saloons of Kokomo, +and in the early morning began to fire their pistols and +guns off in the street, and continued to do so until +Andy Sutton, marshal of Kokomo, attempted to arrest +them, but failed, "as he was quickly covered by two +rifles." Mr. Brown, a police officer, asked Huggins to +put up his pistol, and, to encourage him, proceeded to +pocket his own revolver, when Huggins took deliberate +aim with a 38-calibre Colt and shot Brown in the left +breast, just above the heart. Huggins and Foote +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">172</a></span> +started for Recene. The marshal of Kokomo followed +quickly in pursuit, with a large body of men. +Huggins refused to surrender, whereupon the marshal +shot him in the face. As there was a movement to +lynch him, Al. Huggins was sent under strong guard +to Leadville, but Foote escaped. "Brown was not +dead by last accounts, but was not expected to +live long." Then came a long account of another +"Denver tragedy. Charles Stickney murders Mr. T. +Campan and Mrs. H. O. Devereux in a boarding-house." +Stickney was nephew of ex-Governor Clifford, of Rhode +Island, served as lieutenant, 20th Regiment, in the war +of 1861-4, graduated at Harvard, became principal of +a school, married a lady whom he sent to London to +study music, and tried mining whilst his wife was +giving music lessons in Denver. There she met Mr. +Campan, one of the best families in Detroit; Stickney +shot him and killed a woman who was in the room +at the same time. "Public opinion is in favour of +Stickney, and he will probably be reprimanded." The +evening of the day we reached Leadville, "Alderman +Johnnie M'Combe, a leading candidate for lieutenant-governor +and mayor, and last spring before the people +for city treasurer," shot and wounded, probably fatally, +a well-known actor named James M'Donald, because the +latter had taken some children in M'Combe's buggy for +a drive. It is not easy to determine how far Johnnie's +chance of office may be affected by this ebullition, but +the newspapers did not write of it with harshness; one +gave it a comic character by the heading, "Ex-Alderman +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">173</a></span> +M'Combe attempts to perforate Jemmy +M'Donald's cranium." In my morning paper of the +same date I find that "James Hogan was foully +murdered by James M'Cue in the open streets of Erie +this afternoon in a quarrel about a handkerchief;" +that Dr. Flemings, a prominent citizen of Portland, +Ashley County, Arkansas, had appeased a quarrel +between a pedlar named Gillmore and a coloured man +very effectually, for, "incensed by a remark made by +the pedlar, the doctor drew a pistol and shot him +dead;" that "a prominent business man of M'Leansboro' +had made a sensation on the streets to-day by +hunting up, pistol in hand, one of the gay Lotharios of +Hamilton County;" that "Daniel Keller, deputy +county clerk, was stabbed and killed in the street +of Virginia City by Dennis Hennessy, a kerbstone +broker;" that "a searching party under Captain +Leper had overhauled Hamilton, Myers and Brown, +the outlaws who shot Sheriff Davis and Collector +Hatter at Poplar Bluff, Mo.; killed Hamilton, mortally +wounded Myers, and made Brown a prisoner;" that +"James Hurd shot Jeff Anderson at Alamosa, Col., and +that it was feared the latter would not survive." An +account of the death of "Curly Bill," a notorious +desperado, leader of cowboys and murderer of Marshal +White, who was killed at Caleyville, Arizona, by his +comrade, Jem Wallace, followed. They had a quarrel +(of course, in a saloon). After a few drinks "Curly +Bill" said, "I guess I will kill you on general principles." +Wallace stepped out of the saloon and immediately +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">174</a></span> +opened fire, inflicting a mortal wound on his +foe. After a brief hearing Wallace was discharged, +and left for parts unknown. Then it was related +how "Thomas Clarey ('Tommy the Kid'), a Durango +outlaw, was killed by a comrade named Eskridge at +Annego while drunk." A fratricide and three trials for +murder were duly recorded. Another paper gave an +account of South-West Colorado from the lips of a +recent visitor to San Juan County. "Are you going +back to San Juan? No, I think not; but it is a +glorious country. The men there are a little rough, +and kill each other on slight provocation; but a peaceable +man who does not swagger and blow is not molested. +There is no law, and courts and constables are +unknown." He narrates how Aleck ——, acting as a +barkeeper, "a noble-hearted, jovial fellow, full of fun, +who looked you square in the eye, owns mines, said +to be worth a million," settled a difficulty; I am +inclined to think Mr. Charles Klunk rather drew on +the interviewing reporter of the <i>Globe Democrat</i>. +He was, he said, going to see a stockman who lived +about fifty miles from the house where he was +visiting. A farmer said to him "Come and take a +drink with me, and I'll show you the barkeeper who +killed the man you are going to see an hour ago." +The stockman had come into the saloon whilst Aleck +was in the back room, and began to abuse him. Aleck +heard him, opened on the man with a revolver, and +"shot him full of holes. Next day I asked him what +he was going to do about it, and he said he had been +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">175</a></span> +tried and acquitted, which meant that some of the +leading men had told him that he had done right. +There was no trial about it. When a man kills another +out there in a fight they don't inquire very strictly +into the circumstances, but make up their minds that +they can't bring the dead man to life by hanging the +killer, so nothing is done about it. But when a man +murders another to rob him, the vigilants turn out +and have no mercy on him. They just fill his skin +with lead and tumble him into a hole like a wolf. +After all, though the bears are plentiful in the +spring, you can kill a deer 100 yards from the house +where you like, the streams are alive with trout, the +vegetables and crops splendid." Mr. Charles Klunk's +resolution not to go back to this Happy Valley seems +founded on sound constitutional principles. What I +wish to point out is the condition in which the Central +Government and State Governments have permitted +many districts of New Mexico, Colorado, and California +to remain. It is plain that the peculiar conditions +under which the sway of the United States has been +extended over the regions of the Far West have +rendered it very difficult to establish the machinery +for protecting life and property and punishing crime; +but I do not see that the statesmen at Washington or +the legislators at the State capitals are very much +concerned at the reign of terror which prevails on the +borders, or that they seek to impress on their people +any regard for the sacredness of life. In fact, human +life is almost a drug in the market. And I write +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">176</a></span> +fully sensible of the failures of our own and of all +European Governments to repress crime, to prevent +violence, and to ensure security to life and property. +I am aware that Ireland and Poland are to the fore, +and that wife-beating and "running kicks" illustrate +the brutality of Lancashire and other districts—that +London has its Alsatias, that every European capital +has foul recesses in which the only laws are those +of crime. All the world is busy preparing shoals of +emigrants for the United States. It is only, however, +when some savage outbreak affrighting the propriety +of a great city arouses indignation and fear that there +is a clamour for measures of repression. I do not +think there is in any other part of the world, or +that there ever has been in any civilised country, +such shootings as have filled the land to which +I allude with bloodshed. It may be said with +truth that there never have been and that there are +not any similar conditions in the world. But the +absence of any great abiding movement for the correction +and suppression of violence and lawlessness +cannot be so readily accounted for or excused. There +appears to be a sort of admiration for these border +ruffians among portions of the American Press and +public. Even a staid paper like the <i>Republican</i>, in +an article headed "South-East Missouri: the Reign of +Lawlessness about Ended," on the destruction of the +New Madrid gang, writes of one who was sent to the +penitentiary for thirty years "as a living monument +of a bold and brave lot of desperate men who had +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">177</a></span> +started out to make money by robbing their fellow-men. +This swift and stern justice speaks well for this +portion of the States, which has had for a long time +more than its full quota of these lawless characters. +Myers and Brown will be hung on the 15th July, and +their execution will be witnessed by thousands of South-East +Missourians." The spectacle of the hanging will +not do much good, if it be like the execution at Colorado +Springs, which was advertised as a sort of picnic or +pleasure excursion. One advertisement ran, "After +the hanging to-morrow drink La Salle beer; it will cool +your nerves." "Highway robbery here has about run +its course, and the people are determined that lawlessness +in those regions shall no longer go unwhipped +of justice." Very good. But, why not sooner and +long ago? "Rhodes was hung by Judge Lynch when +captured at the killing of young Laforge in New +Madrid;" but the gang killed the sheriff and wounded +the deputy-sheriff and collector before the people arose +in their majesty to squelch them. A criminal is invested +with a notoriety which, next to popular estimation, +is valued by some men, and it is noted with +interest that "Gilbert" (one pitiless murderer) is a +Catholic, and that "Rosengrants" (another homicide) +"inclines towards the Episcopalians." A Leadville +doctor visits one of them to ask for his body. "No, +sirree, you can't have my body; I'll be hanged first!" +And the public laugh at the lively sally, and admire +the <i>sangfroid</i> of the wit! In fact, there is a +<i>tendresse</i> for crime in this grim humour. A Texan who +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">178</a></span> +would "fill the skin" of a stranger "with lead" for +aspersing Texas would no doubt heartily enjoy the +description of the early population of the Lone Star +State, which I quote from the Texas Press. "In the +early days of the Republic, and even after annexation, +many of the white men who came here had strong +sanitary reasons for a change of climate, having been +threatened with throat disease so sudden and dangerous +that the slightest delay in moving to a new and milder +climate would have been fatal, the subjects dying of +dislocation of the spinal vertebræ at the end of a few +minutes—and a rope. A great many left Arkansas, +Indiana, and other States in such a hurry that they +were obliged to borrow the horses on which they rode +to Texas. They mostly recovered on reaching Austin, +and many invalids began to feel better and consider +themselves out of danger as soon as they crossed the +Brancos River. Some who would not have lived twenty-four +hours longer had they not left their homes reached +a green old age in Western Texas, and were never again +in risk of the bronchial affection already referred to by +carefully avoiding the causes which led to their trouble. +Some at Austin recovered so far as to be able to run for +office, within a year, though defeated by a respectable +majority, owing to the atmosphere and the popularity +of the other candidate." The most extraordinary +fact connected with the indulgence which is extended +to Western excesses is the severity with which +Northern and Eastern writers and publicists deal +with the recklessness of Southerners with regard to +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">179</a></span> +life, as if it were a political question in some way +connected with slavery. In an article on "Colonisation," +in the July number of 'The International +Review,' there is an attempt to prove that the prevalence +of homicide in the South as compared with the +North has impeded the flow of immigrants, although +slavery has disappeared, and the writer, quoting Mr. +Redfield's book on 'Homicide North and South,' says +the terrible "scourge of open murder, wholly irrespective +of political causes more deadly than disease or +yellow fever, because each death is the result of a +heinous crime, seems to be calmly accepted by public +opinion as a part of the unchangeable conditions of +social life in the South. In Kentucky more men are +killed in six days than in eight years in Vermont. In +a village of Connecticut a death from homicide has +never occurred from its foundation, while in one graveyard +in Owen County, Kentucky, the majority are +murdered men, and in another county forty-two persons +were killed and forty-three wounded in two years." +But in the very same number of the 'International' +there is an account of the doings of the "Vigilance +Committee" of San Francisco (where there were no +slaves and where there is immense wealth), which +might cause the author of the paper on "Colonisation" +to reflect a little on his theories. Surely in +Arizona, California, &c., where the foreign population +is 50 per cent. of the natives, immigration has not been +checked by the prevalence of homicide? It must not +be supposed that there is no "law" in the towns where +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">180</a></span> +these crimes have been committed; in all the cases +referred to the coroner did his office and verdicts were +returned, and it will have been seen that "wretches +hang" in due course. We had intended to visit the +State prison at Cañon City on our way to Pueblo from +Leadville, where we were promised an opportunity of +seeing "thirty murderers all in a row," but the delay +of the train on the road deprived us of the means of +verifying the statement, and I give it as it was made. +It would seem as if the criminal supply were super-abundant, +or that death on the gallows had no deterrent +influence. The chances of escape are, if not +numerous, at least considerable. At Deming, Denver, +Leadville, Tucson, Tombstone, and other cities, the +vast mass of the inhabitants are law-abiding, peaceable, +honest, and honourable men, who feel as much +horror at the violence and bloodshed around them as +the most refined lady in any saloon of Boston, Paris, or +London, but they appear to endure these things in +the hope that the law will be enforced at last; now +and then they break into vigilance committees and +execute their own decrees, though the judges do not +fail to lay it down that they have been accessories to +murder. The great civiliser and police agent is the +railroad. It is affirmed that as the iron way is pushed +on the outlaws and the <i>personnel</i> of outlawry congregate +at the terminal town, but I suspect that there is +a fringe of the material left on the border as it runs. +As our party were at dinner in the palace-car one +evening the train pulled up at a station. There was a +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">181</a></span> +group of rough men on the platform, who stared in +with all their eyes at the white tablecloth, set with +bright glass and silver, and at the cheerful faces under +the lamps. "How merry they are. I wonder if they +know that this is Dodge City?" exclaimed one of the +crowd. I was told by an official that when they were +making a railway in these parts the surveyors, &c., +were much troubled by gangs of gamblers and robbers, +who impeded the work and debauched the men, so +after due warning they made a razzia on the gamblers, +shot a lot of them, and the rest "vamosed." There +was not very long ago an actual war in the Grand +Cañon Valley between the Atchison, Topeka, and +Santa Fé Railway and the Denver and Rio Grande +Railway, in which there was an array of armed forces +and fighting on both sides, and we saw with our own +eyes the remains of the breastworks cast up in the +Grand Cañon by the belligerents. The law came in at +last. "One side got at the judge first and gave him +$50,000. The other was quite ready to go beyond +that, but the first was too quick, and the suit went +against the company." I was talking to a lawyer +about the length of time which is allowed by the +judges to criminals sentenced to death as a detail of +the execution of the law not in accordance with the +general practice of civilised nations, when one of the +company remarked, "They must do it, sir, to please +the people. If we had Judas Iscariot in gaol to-morrow +there would be thousands of petitions to commute his +sentence, and thousands of dollars ready for an appeal +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">182</a></span> +to the Supreme Court. Our people don't like prompt +sentence." Nevertheless, sentence and execution are +pretty swift when the desperadoes take the law into +their own hands, as we have seen. The revolver and +the "saloon" are the agents and the scene in most of +these murders, and whisky is too often the motive power. +In Kansas it is a criminal offence to sell any intoxicating +spirit, or to use it except on medical certificate. It is +said that the law cannot last, but it surely was a very +strong conviction of the evils which were endured by +the community that brought a State Legislature, +elected by the people, to enact that beer, wine, and +spirits should be absolutely and entirely banished from +its borders. Lately there was a prosecution by the +State attorney of a man for selling spirits. The case +was clearly proved. The judge charged the jury in +the strongest manner against the defendant. The jury +without retiring at once found a verdict of "not guilty." +"Boys," exclaimed the judge, putting his hand on the +foreman's shoulder, "Boys, I'm quite with you." The +Kansas case will be, I think, watched with great +interest by the rival parties in England, and it is +certainly worth investigation and attention, for, if all +I hear be true here, a Parliament elected by the people +either in advance or in the rear of their constituents +have passed a law which judges condemn, and juries +evade, and public opinion derides.</p> + +<p>From a British, which may be an unintelligent, point +of view, there is a want of logical method in the treatment +of the Great Rebellion question by Americans. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">183</a></span> +There is a general disposition to speak of the war +between the Federal Government and the people of +the Confederate States as an historical fact which has +ceased to present burning controversies and terrible +issues to the Republic. But, at the same time, these +controversies are kept alive, and, for the defeated, are +stirred up incessantly by anniversaries and celebrations, +natural but, if it be the object of Americans, as many +of them assure us it is, to let the memory of the past +die out like that of a horrid dream, impolitic. The +spirit which animated the Southern States is neither +dead nor sleeping. But there are no end of G. A. P. +and G. A. R. Associations flourishing their banners +and waving their sheathed swords in and out of the +newspapers, and it is almost more than Southern flesh +and blood can bear at times to be reminded of the +defeats they sustained, even if they be content to +admit that the doctrine of the sovereignty of States +was a delusion, and that the indivisibility of the +Republic was a fundamental principle of the Constitution +before it was conclusively established by force +of arms.</p> + +<p>North and South, our good cousins are fond of +anniversaries and speechmakings. I wonder where +they get their taste for them from? Some few +veterans dine together on anniversaries of old French +war days, and there is a Balaclava Dinner in the Old +Country; but, though we have a reasonably long list +of fighting successes to commemorate, their anniversaries +are mostly left to the almanacks. The other +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">184</a></span> +day the Americans had a celebration of the Battle of +Cowpens, wherein the heroic Morgan gave the diabolical +Tarleton the deuce of a whipping. I wonder if it was +worth remembering? But it is better to remember +such things perhaps than Sherman's Raid or Wilderness—or +Chickahominy. There are bitternesses enough +remaining—the rivalries and jealousies of generals are +still active and these memories might be left to die +out.</p> + +<p>The great war which so deeply moved the population +of the United States has left many traces in Soldiers' +Homes, and men deprived of legs or arms, or bearing +marks of indelible wounds, are to be met with wherever +there is any considerable gathering of people all over +the Union. The clerk at the bar of the hotel, to +whom we were talking a moment ago, was a captain in +a regiment of militia, and served with distinction, +having risen to the grade he occupies by conduct and +courage during the war; and if he is known among +his friends by the title of "Colonel," he deserves, +probably, the brevet conferred upon him by the +authority of the general public around him. The +conductor of the train on the Pennsylvania Railroad, +to whose attention we were so much indebted, was an +ex-officer of volunteers, was engaged at the first battle +of Bull Run, where he was wounded, and in several +other actions. And our good friend the Major, who +enabled us to pass many an hour listening to his +admirable rendering of negro minstrelsy, bore in his +body a proof of the dangers he had passed, in the shape +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">185</a></span> +of a Confederate bullet, or it might have been (for I am +not quite sure now) a projectile of the Federal persuasion. +And so on. Scarcely a day passed that we +did not meet someone who had been fighting on one +side or the other.</p> + +<p>One great change has come over Americans since I +was last here, and, whether it was the ridicule to which +they were exposed or to a sense of their greatness as a +nation that it be due, it is to be commended. Except +by a professional interviewer, not one of the party was +asked, "What do you think, sir, of our country?"!</p> + +<p>The welcome which an Englishman who is entitled +to admission into good society receives all over the +States, in the best houses, and from the best men, is as +gracious and warm as ever. It seems as if a reaction +against the suspicion, jealousy, and harshness which +marred the political relations of the Republic and Great +Britain in times gone by, moved those who behave with +so much courtesy to Englishmen, and that they seem to +say, <i>sotto voce</i>, "Come and see how I forget the wrongs +done to the United States by the Ministers of George +III. and his successors! Admit that I can be as +magnanimous as I am rich and cultivated! I am of +your house, but I have transplanted all the good +qualities of your race to American soil, and grafted +them on the tree of liberty which towers aloft in all +the splendour of Transatlantic luxuriance above us." +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">186</a></span></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER IX.<br /> +THE RED MAN AND HIS DESTINY.</h2> + +<p class="chapsum"> +Captain Pratt—Carlisle Barracks—An Indian Bowman—The Indian +Question—The Pupils' Gossip—The "School News"—Indian +Visitors—The White Mother—The India Office—White and Red—Quo +Quousque?—Indian Title Deeds—The Reservations—The +Indian Agencies—Missionary Efforts—The Red Man and the +Maori. +</p> + +<p>On the 5th of May the party visited Carlisle Fort or +Barracks, one of the ancient military establishments +of the Republic, where in the old times, speaking in +an American sense, a considerable force was usually +concentrated to keep watch and ward over the western +frontiers, now extended thousands of miles away to +the Pacific. The Barrack, which is a large quadrangle +capable of containing a couple of regiments, is appropriated +by the Government to this great experiment, +the systematic education of the Indians of +both sexes, whose families send them to school for the +purpose of learning English and useful arts, mechanical +and other, which may be of advantage to their people. +It was, perhaps, one of the most interesting of the +many little excursions which the Duke of Sutherland +and his friends made in the States, and as it was the +only one of the schools which we had an opportunity +of seeing I shall proceed to give a little account of +what we witnessed. In the first place let me express +the sense which every one of us entertained of the real +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">187</a></span> +sterling qualities of Captain Pratt who is in charge of +the school, and of the devotion and solicitude for +their charges of those ladies employed in the training +establishment. It may be asked how casual visitors +could judge of these things? The discipline, order, +progress, and perfect method visible in every room, and +the intelligence and good understanding between the +teachers and the pupils which could be perceived +throughout the establishment, were adequate proofs, I +think, that the praise is well deserved. At the time +of our visit there were something under three hundred +pupils, of whom perhaps two hundred were boys, and +these were engaged in their class-rooms, each section +of Indians being arranged according to nationality, if +such a term can be used. But, indeed, the tribes of +Indians differed from each other in personal appearance +far more than do the races which inhabit the European +continent. It is true they nearly all have straight +wire-like black hair and eyes set deeply and rather +obliquely in faces which are frequently of the Mongol +type. But there is great diversity in the shape of the +head, the angle of the jaw, the formation of the mouth +and nose, the colour (when not tainted or "improved" +by an admixture of European blood, whether Mexican +or American or other) being pretty uniform, a rich +bronze, with something of a copper hue, predominating +in the young people. The boys were dressed in a plain +neat uniform of greyish-blue, military tunics and +trousers, well shod and comfortably equipped in all +respects. The girls, amongst whom, perhaps, taste for +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">188</a></span> +eccentric finery was not unobservable, wore dresses less +uniform in appearance, generally neat and always clean; +but their foot gear was rather eccentric. The rooms, +spacious barrack-like apartments, well ventilated, were +appropriated to the classes according to age and progress, +the boys being separated from the girls. The +walls were hung with maps and furnished with educational +coloured prints, and boards for arithmetical +exercises were in each apartment. The desks and stools +were such as would be seen in an ordinary school, and +if one had not looked at the faces of the pupils and +been struck by some of the strange characters on the +walls he would have thought himself in the middle +of some ordinary school; save, perhaps, that his ear +would have missed the curious humming noise which +marks the industry of idleness or of legitimate work +in similar establishments in Europe. But here were +all these young savages, poring over their books or +boring with their pens, looking up at the visitors +scarcely with curiosity and applying themselves again +to their work, or answering questions put to them with +the composure which must be a portion of the Red +Man's nature.</p> + +<p>I cannot recollect how many tribes there were represented +at the Carlisle school; but I was struck by +the race-distinctions which could be observed when +Captain Pratt, standing on a raised platform, called +out the names of each tribe. The little batches, in +some instances only one or two, stood up briskly and +looked somewhat proudly about, as much as to say, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">189</a></span> +"We are Sioux (or Apaches, or Ponchas, or Creeks), +not like these other fellows." And the young ladies +were, if one might judge from their expression, quite +as proud of their own people as the boys. But the +names these poor children receive are ludicrous. Not +content with calling them by English names, or +American, singularly misapplied, very often, as a name +may be, their own Indian nomenclature is translated +into English, so that we heard reading and reciting +beside "Luke Phillips" and "Almarine McKillip" (a +Scotch Creek) "Maggie Stands-looking" and "Reuben +Quick-bear." There was something of sarcasm, I think, +in the address of a Creek boy to the visitors. He said: +"The Indian boys had come here to learn something +about the use of the bow and hunting. Their people +believed that if boys grew up to manhood without +learning they would be of no use; therefore they had +sent the boys here to get education." Then, after +some moral if trite reflections, the lad said: "You must +understand that nearly everything that was made was +made both for the present and the future. This barracks +was not built for Indians, as I do not think the +men who built it ever thought that it would be an +Indian school; but things were made to do good both +in the present and in the future." And then quoth +he, looking at his white friends straight in the face: +"The education which we are getting here is not like +our own land, but it is something that cannot be +stolen nor bought from us." And the white man did +not turn red at the words! I do not pretend to judge +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">190</a></span> +of the actual progress made in learning, but the very +intelligent self-possessed teachers reported uniformly +that they were satisfied. The most useful education, +perhaps, which these Indians receive is in practical +mechanics, and a visit to the workshops attached to +the barracks was amply repaid by the sight of these +industrious young fellows hammering and leathering +away in the various departments. They have actually +completed waggons of a most satisfactory construction, +complete in all their parts, so much so that orders +have been received for as many as can be supplied for +the use of Agencies. They make and repair their own +shoes. They have sent out a hundred and twenty +double sets of harness. They make coffee-boilers, +cups, pans, pails, and all the articles known to the +tin-smith; and the girls are taught to hem and sew +and knit in the English fashion; but it must have +been not many a long year before the white man +landed, when the ancestors of these Indian maidens +exercised the same mystery with fine sinew and skin +in the wonderful work of which specimens are handed +down to us to-day. On one point alone, perhaps, +there was something to regret; the health of the +children was not all that could be desired. Well +clad, regularly fed, I presume on wholesome food, +cleanly lodged in well-ventilated rooms, these wild +children of the plains scarcely came up to the expectations +one would form of them in the matter of chest-measurement; +and although many were remarkable +for fine physical development, Captain Pratt confessed +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">191</a></span> +that their sanitary condition was not everything that +could be desired, and that losses from consumption and +other causes were rather serious. But they have +plenty of out-door exercise. They have games in +which they rejoice. They drill and march to the +sound of their own band, a very good brass band of +eight performers, each of a different tribe, who played +"Hail Columbia!" and the "Star-Spangled Banner," +and the like, with energy and zest; nay, with harmonious +concurrence. When we went out into the +large open square, there appeared before us a wonderful +being in feathers, waving plumes, wampum and all +the leathern panoply and peltry adornments of an +Indian, painted, and armed with bow and arrow, probably +such an one as Captain John Smith may have +seen as he went exploring the woods of Virginia on +his way to the sacrifice from which he was saved by +Pocahontas. A target was erected at a distance of +a hundred yards or so, and had I been in the centre of +it, I should have been perfectly safe from the arrows +which the Indian warrior discharged at it. But we +were told that with a good bow a strong-armed Indian +will drive an arrow right through a buffalo, and in +that case I would suppose that the buffalo was very +near to him indeed.</p> + +<p>Of course it is but natural to find very varying +degrees of intelligence amongst the pupils, and the +rate of progress was by no means uniform, but a +committee of examination which recently visited the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">192</a></span> +school declared that the manifestations of advancement +in the rudiments of English education were to +them simply surprising. It was with admiration +bordering on amazement they observed the facility and +accuracy with which the children passed through the +various exercises, in reading, geography, arithmetic, +and writing, of the schoolroom; the accurate training +and the amount of knowledge displayed were, they reported, +the fullest proof not only of skilful teaching, but +of great aptitude and diligence on the part of the children. +Considering the brief period during which the +school had been in operation, and the fact that the children +entered it in a wholly untutored condition, the +evidence was conclusive of the capability of culture. +They go on to say: "We are fully persuaded that improvement +equal to that which we have witnessed in +the case of these children of the plains, if made in equal +time by American children, would be regarded as quite +unusual. And when the difficulty of communication +consequent upon the diversities of language is taken +into account we can but feel that the results of which +we have been the witnesses to-day justify our judgment +of them as amazing."</p> + +<p>One of the most interesting features connected with +the attempts to educate the Indians at Carlisle is the +'School News,' a little publication which, as I understand, +is conducted by Indian pupils taught in the +establishment, edited by Samuel Townsend, a Pawnee +Indian boy. It is published once a month, and costs +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">193</a></span> +25 cents or 1<i>s.</i> per year. It takes as its motto the +lines:</p> +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poem"> +<p class="o1">"A pebble cast into the sea is felt from shore to shore,</p> +<p>A thought from the mind set free will echo on for ever more."</p> +</div></div> + +<p>Perhaps neither the metre nor the actual statement +commend themselves to acceptance, but the +matter of the little journal is full of interest. In the +first place the names of the contributors afford full +matter for meditation. Perhaps it is one of the steps +which must be taken to civilise these poor Indians that +their names should undergo a strange and, to me, +unmeaning metamorphose. There seems no reason +whatever why the Indian names should not be retained, +or if there is any reason for changing them, at +least there might be some discrimination and good +taste exercised in the adoption of English Christian +names.</p> + +<p>The first number of the 'School News,' which I have +before me, contains as an article: "What Michael +Burns, an Apache boy, thinks on the Indian Question." +He says, "I cannot help myself, having much feeling for +my people, what has been said about them, and the +efforts making to give us the same privileges as the +people of the United States. And it is said how +we have been treated by the bad white man, for the +last ten or fifteen years, decreasing our number. But +that kind for treatment for my nation will soon stop." +The poor boy goes on to say: "There is no doubt +that we are in fault. We had the opinion that we +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">194</a></span> +could not get beaten by any other nation. Now we +know for ourselves that we will have to change.... +But how does the white man know which way +is the best to do. Was he born that way? No! +Education gives him the light of knowledge." Then +a boy named Marcus Poko writes to his father: "I +want you to try hard and leave the Comanche way, +and to find the white man's way." In the leading +article, written, I presume, by Samuel Townsend, it is +said: "Indian ways will never be good any more, it +is all passed, gone away, and the other way is coming +up to take the place. We shall all be glad when we +all get into the civilised way of living, then the +Indians will not make so much trouble for the +American people. Some people say 'let the Indians +get out of the way. There is no use in trying to +advance them, kill them all they are like the wild +animals deaf and dumb, they never will learn anything. +We have already paid so much money for +them they have never become civilised yet.' But all +good people say, 'Oh, yes, give them an education and +plenty of opportunities, and send more teachers among +them so they may come up beside us and live as +brothers and live in peace.'" There is a little paragraph +as to language. "There are a great many words in +the English," says the writer, "that the Indians have +no word for, so the white people who make the Indian +books have to make new Indian words. So the Indians +have to learn the new Indian words. Now we don't +know much about it, but we believe the Indians can +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">195</a></span> +all learn to speak the same as the whites." Then +there is a column about the school news: "Lizzie +McRae, a Creek girl, made a very good corn bread the +other day. We had some of it. It was right good I +tell you." "Robert American Horse is a steady boy. +He works in the blacksmith shop very well, and Mr. +Harris never has to tell him but once how to do something." +"One of the teachers had artificial violets on her +belt. A Gros Ventre boy saw them, but did not know +what they were, so he got up from his desk and went +close to the teacher. He looked at it and then smelt +it. When he smelt it he said, 'Pooh! rags!'" "Boys, +some time ago Captain Pratt gave us advice about +throwing stones at birds. Some of the boys who +understand most English did not listen. We want +the birds to come and stay with us and sing for +us, too. Let us remember about this, and not let +Captain Pratt have to say it again." "Last Sunday +some of the large girls had a prayer-meeting in the +yard at the back of the girls' quarters. Nobody told +them to do it, but they thought it would be a good +thing." There is a long letter from Lizzie Walton, a +Pawnee girl of thirteen years old, describing a trip to +Philadelphia, and I believe there are very few girls of +thirteen years of age in any school who could write +more amusingly or better. The account of a magic +lantern by Ada Bent, a Cheyenne girl, closes the +number.</p> + +<p>Letters from the children who are sent out to the +farmers are published in this little periodical, and give +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">196</a></span> +a very pleasing picture of the lives and aptitudes of +these Indians. Virginia, of Kiowar, writes from a farm, +asking one of the teachers to pardon her for not having +done so before; but "I have not much time," she says, +"I am very busy set the table and wash dishes make +my bed and make pies and cakes and try to make +bread too, and the other things beside.... Sometime +I make fire and bring in wood. Mrs. Borton is very +kind lady she has two children one girl and boy. I +love these little children very much." "My dear +Miss H——, I am not bad a girl. I help now a great +deal. I pray for you almost every night, also when I +wake up in the morning. I like to pray very much +because I make myself good." And so on in a pleasant +little gossiping way, frequently in very difficult language. +There is an article in the 'School News' of +July upon the shooting of President Garfield: "The +man who shot him," says the writer, "we suppose, +thought he would please some of the people in the +United States. He thought he was very smart. If +President were to die how would every white man, +black man and the Indian feel? It was not in war +when the President was shot, for our country don't +have war any more, but in peace.... We all feel +sorry because the President is suffering. We hope he +will soon recover." It is stated that about a hundred +boys and girls have gone out to work on the +farms, and there are some trite remarks about the +advantages of hard work as opposed to the disadvantages +of laziness. "The farmers up country say +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">197</a></span> +the Indian boys can bind wheat first-rate." "Nelly +Cook, Sioux, made 36 sheets in one day last week. +Nellie Cary, Apache, made 32, and Ella Moore, Creek, +made 30. Boys, do you think those girls are lazy?" +The 'School News' has a reporter, it would appear, +for the paper says that "Our reporter took a walk +round in the shops to see what the boys were doing. +In all the shops every boy was busy. In the carpenter +shop there were Jock (Arapahoe), Ralph +(Sioux), Elwood (Iowa), and Joe Gun (Ponca) sawing +out window and door frames. Oscar (Cheyenne) and +Michael Burns (Apache) were busy carving balcony +posts; and Lester (Arapahoe) was outside chiselling +a beam. These things are all for our new hospital.... +Jesse (Arapahoe) and Little Elk (Cheyenne) were busy +in the gymnasium. The waggons which Robert +American Horse has finished painting are to be sent +to Oregon and Washington Territories." It is sometimes +difficult to make out the meaning of the little +prattle which these small people commit to the uncertain +medium of the English tongue; but, on the +whole, it is a most interesting and curious study. In +one respect these children of the forest possess that +which civilisation seems rather to dwarf amongst men of +the highest culture and imagination—a certain stately +eloquence and nobility of expression, in which natural +images abound, and allegory and metaphor consort +together in excellent and tasteful union. In a paper +called 'Eadle Keatah Toh,' which seems to have been +the precursor of the 'School News,' there is an interesting +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">198</a></span> +report from the Committee on Indian Affairs to +the House of Representatives, submitted by Mr. Pound. +The motto of the paper is "God helps those who help +themselves"; but surely it might be better put that God +will help those who seek to do good to the unfortunate +Indians, who in contact with civilisation are rendered +utterly helpless, and who in their attempts to help themselves +according to the manner of the race must meet with +nothing but extinction. From time to time there are +notices of deaths. One would like to know who wrote +the account of the "death of John Renville, son of +Gabriel Renville, Chief of the Sisseton Sioux." After +noticing the circumstances under which he contracted +his fatal illness—fever, produced by drinking water +at a spring on a hot day on a march to the camp in +Perry County, the writer says:—"'Death loves a +shining mark,' the poet sang long ago; and in the +passing away of John Renville from our school we +sadly say, how truthfully the poet sang.... +Through all the days of his sickness his large sorrowful +eyes had a far-away wondering look, no pain +marred the beauty of his brow, and his voice as he +addressed his sister, who tenderly watched over him, +was like the trumpet warbling of some mournful bird. +Our hearts follow the father in deep sympathy as he +bears back the body of his beautiful boy to the land +of the Dakotas for burial."</p> + +<p>The Indian chiefs have a right, which they often +exercise, of visiting these schools as a Board; and +there is an account in the Carlisle paper of the visit +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">199</a></span> +of Spotted Tail, Iron Wing, White Thunder, Black +Crow, and Louis Robideau from the Rosebud Agency; +Red Cloud, American Horse, Red Dog, Red Shirt, +Little Wound, and Two Strike from the Pine Ridge +Agency; Like the Bear and Medicine Bull from +the Lower Brule Agency; Son of the Star, Poor +Wolf, Peter Beauchamp, and John Smith from +Fort Berthold; Two Bears, John Big Head, Grass, +Thunder Hawk, and Louis Primeau from Standing +Rock; Charger and Bull Eagle from Cheyenne +River; Brother to All and James Broadhead from +Crow Creek; Strike the Ree and Jumping Thunder +from Yankton; Robert Hakewashte and Eli Abraham +from Santee Agency; Mr. Tackett and his wife +and daughter; a daughter of Spotted Tail, and +others. The meeting of the children with their +parents is described as being most touching; and +sometimes the pupils were not recognised, so greatly +had they altered. As the chiefs seemed unwilling to +speak when called upon to do so, there was silence for +a time till a little girl, who had been about a year and +a half at the school, expressed her desire to speak in so +earnest a way that General Marshall permitted her to +do so; and so, speaking in her own dialect, her words were +translated into English and into Sioux. She declared +that she liked the white man's ways and the white man's +language. Indian words, she said, were down on the +ground, but the white man's language was in his head. +The chiefs, who listened attentively, seemed to understand +this curious figure of speech, and nodded their +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">200</a></span> +approval. And then she enlarged upon the advantage +of what she learned, and implored the chiefs to send +their children to the school, where she says she is +going to try to be God's daughter. Her words seemed +to kindle the fire within the chieftains' breasts, for Like +the Bear, a Sioux, and father of one of the boys at +Hampton School, came forward and addressed the +meeting. "There is no greater power in the world," +said he, "than the Great Spirit, and we must listen to +Him and do what He wants us to do. When the men +who were sent out by the Great Father the President +asked for my children I gave them up. I see you are +making brains for my children, and you are making +eyes for them so that they can see. That is what I +thank the Great Spirit for, and it is that which will +make me strong." Then Robert Hakewashte, a chief +from the Santee Agency, spoke, and said that he wanted +schools like that which he saw here on his own reservation, +and Spotted Tail wished for the same thing. +"Since I have learned the words of God," he says, "it +makes no difference to me what is the colour of a man's +skin; if he walks like a man it is the same. I do not +believe God likes the white colour only. God likes +red and white, for He made them all." And then the +flood of eloquence was loosened, and an old chief of the +Sioux, nearly blind, verging on ninety years of age, +who had come to see his grandson, said: "I grew up a +red man, and the things I see here I never had a chance +to see before. I have heard about the white man's +church and his religion, and I have heard about the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">201</a></span> +holy house. I have looked into them, and I am very +much pleased. But there is only one Great Spirit we +all can worship, and the red men all over the country +are hearing about it. You are teaching the children +to worship the Great Spirit. That is a great thing, +and I like it. But you have here two sons of one +father. One is sick. I want you to keep the other." +And so he carried him away.</p> + +<p>The condition of the Red Man who is allowed to exist +under the banner of the Republic is a subject which +has attracted the attention of the best and wisest men +in the United States. The treatment of the Indians +is a question of future policy. It is one which must +exercise a very deep and abiding influence on the whole +history of an ancient and interesting people. But it is +exceedingly difficult to put in a short compass its most +salient points before those who are unacquainted with +the nature of the problems to be solved. Comparisons +are odious, above all places, in America, when they +are not to the advantage of the Great Republic, and +I shall not draw any between the state of the Indian +tribes in Canada and in the States. But it may be +fairly admitted that the Indian Question in Canada +is divested of many of the difficulties which surround +it south of the lakes. The people of Canada have far +more land than they know what to do with. They +are a sparse population. They are not impelled +to fierce adventures by mining "booms," and they +are altogether less progressive than their American +brethren. Shall we say that they are more charitable, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">202</a></span> +more humane, less greedy of other men's goods? I do +not say so. But at all events it is perfectly true that +the Red Man, although he is dying out under the +influence of whiskey and other influences which need +not be particularised, in his native land, lives in comparative +peace and comfort under the British flag in +Canada. He is content with the White Mother. He +pursues the occupations dear to his race as a hunter +and as a fisherman. He is a dealer in peltries, and in +such small barter as his needs require. He is the +companion of sportsmen, and he delights, free as mountain +air, to hunt on the hillside and in the prairie in +winter over the vast ranges of snowy fields which in +the few short months of spring and summer teem with +flowers, and the frosty lakes which yield fish to his spear +and net. There are few or no railways through his +reservations to vex his repose, no great trains of miners +with pick and rifle to drive away the moose and the +buffalo, and hand the native hunter over to starvation. +The Indian gives to the white man all he needs, and +aids him in obtaining from the wide stretch of land +over which he roams all the wealth that it can afford. +Practically one part of the Dominion is handed over +to the Red Man and to the half-breeds, for there +is an Indian frontier which as yet has not been much +encroached upon by any large migration of whites. +As far as I know, conflicts north of the Saint Lawrence +between Indians and whites are unknown, or have not +been heard of for very many years. South of the great +lakes, in the wonderful land over which is displayed the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">203</a></span> +banner of the stars and stripes, the fate of the Indian +is very different. In the words of Mr. Carl Schurz, +himself an expert in the question, "the history of the +relations of the United States with the Red Man +presents in great part a record of broken treaties, of +unjust wars and of cruel spoliation." That is a sweeping +statement, which it would be just as well for an +Englishman not to make, but coming from the mouth +of an American citizen and of a United States Minister +with plenty of evidence to back it, there can be no +harm in recording my conviction of its truth. It is +but another indictment against a defect in the form of +government which Americans exalt as the most perfect +of human institutions, that the central government +made treaties in good faith with the Indian tribes, but +was unable to enforce their obligations or to maintain +their integrity. There is, as all well-informed people +know—well informed, at least, in reference to American +affairs—a commissioner who makes an annual report +to the Secretary of the Interior respecting the Indian +tribes in the various locations over the Union and +the Territories. The last of these reports which I +have seen is that of the Acting Commissioner Mr. +Marble, addressed to the Department of the Interior +from the office of Indian Affairs at Washington in the +November of last year. The volume contains the +reports of the agents in the Indian Territory; of the +schools for Indian children established in pursuance of +a wise and humane policy, and detailed statistics in +relation to the Indian settlements and reservations, the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">204</a></span> +latter indeed forming by far the largest portion of the +volume of 400 pages. Before I call attention to the +condition of the Indians, and the efforts made to save +them from extinction or from a degradation worse than +annihilation, I should like to direct the attention of +those who are interested in the subject to the view +which is beginning to find favour, I believe, among +the most experienced men in the States, that the +system of "Reservations" is founded on a mistake the +magnitude of which is demonstrated every day, and that +the only means of saving the Indians from extinction +is their gradual absorption as educated communities in +the agricultural life of the nation, keeping them far +as may be from the white man, but making no other +distinction between them and the other citizens of the +United States than such as must be found in the nature +of the Indian race and their degree of culture and civilisation—treating +them, in fact, as communities of +Mennonites, Mormons, or Norwegians, or other nationalities +would be treated in the United States. When +the Reservations were first established it was considered +impossible that the migration of the whites +would extend to the remote regions of the west to +which the unfortunate survivors of the people with +whose virtues and vices Cooper and other novelists +have made us familiar were gradually and often remorselessly +driven. It is a plea which will be urged in +bar of judgment that the doctrine of States Rights +prevented the interference of the United States Government +on behalf of the Indian tribes who were often +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">205</a></span> +ruthlessly destroyed. But it will scarcely be a plea, +I think, which humanity in full court would recognise +as valid. <i>Homo homini lupus.</i> But to the Red Man +as to the Black in many cases the White Man is worse +than any wolf; far more bloodthirsty and rapacious +than any tiger—a Cain of Cains. It was our own kith +and kin who, landing on the shores of the North +American continent, encroaching by degrees upon the +tribes and at last encountering their hostility, spread +their sway literally by fire and sword, and rooted out +the Red Man wherever they found him established on +land or by sea which they coveted. We, whose countrymen +have worked out the same policy on the Australian +continent and Van Diemen's Land, and who can only +be restrained from its pursuit in New Zealand by the +strong arm of the Home Government, can scarcely +afford to take up stones to fling at our American +brethren; and it is not with any purpose of indictment +or accusation that I proceed to make a few remarks +on the relations of the United States Government with +the Red Man, and the efforts which they have been +making to compensate the Indians in some measure +for the injustice and persecution dealt out for many +a generation.</p> + +<p>As I looked at the men gathered at some of the +railroad stations in the western desert and thought +of the Red Men whose fate it is to meet such representatives +of civilisation and Christianity, I could not +but be filled with pity for the unfortunates and with +wonder at "the dispensation" under which they live. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">206</a></span> +The faces are fine and bold enough, bearded to the +cheek or shaved in the American fashion, with bold +staring eyes, which "look square" in your own, with +a general expression "Do you want a fight?" in them—the +heads to which they belong are generally set on +muscular bodies. If a gang of these men think fit to +go on to an Indian reservation—the very name is too +often a bitter mockery—who is to stop them? If the +Indians try to do so and one of the white intruders is +killed the country-side rings with cries of "vengeance +for the massacre of our brethren," and all the papers are +filled with accounts of "Another Indian Outbreak."</p> + +<p>"The average frontier-man in the States looks," as +Mr. Schurz says, "upon the Indian merely as a +nuisance in his way. There are many whom it would +be difficult to convince that it is a crime to kill an +Indian." I will go further and say that there are +many, I believe, who would take great pleasure in killing +an Indian whenever they could; or as one gentleman +observed to me, and I believe in his relations with +white men no more just or honourable man or more +humane could be found, "I would sooner kill an Indian +than I would a skunk." When I was in the West, +there was a cry raised that the Utes were about to +wage war, and appeals appeared in the local papers +for a military force to march against them. Their +leaders were accused of arrogance and of insolence, +and of murderous designs, and the general remark +one heard was, "The Utes must go." I inquired a +little into the matter when I got back, and I found +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">207</a></span> +that the Utes were strictly and absolutely, in their +own right, standing upon the titles, which they had +derived from the United States Government, to the +lands from which they were required to move. These +lands were wanted. Other lands were pointed out to +them, to which they objected, and then they were +informed that they would be moved by force, and preparations +were made to levy war against these unfortunates, +if they resisted deportation from the territory +which had been assigned to them by the Great Father. +Had they been Irish landlords, they could not have +been treated worse; but in the West not one word +was raised in favour of their claims.</p> + +<p>The first point which has to be considered is, that +the Indian is obnoxious to the very class of men with +whom he is by the necessity of things most closely +brought in contact. The railway has been the great +persecutor of Red Men. It has driven away the game, +it has carried in proximity to their reservations all the +enterprise charged with whiskey, revolver, rifle, and +greed, which can be furnished by the offscourings of +the world. In the Far West the miners in advance +throng into the valleys, and break the silence of the +mountain-ranges by the sound of their picks, the cattle-raisers +spread out over the plains, the ploughman settles +down on the fertile land. "What," asks the American +philanthropist, and his question is echoed all over the +world by humane and good men, "what is to become +of the Indian?" The hunting-grounds are gradually +being pushed farther west and north until they are +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">208</a></span> +bounded by the sea, and by the eternal snow. And if +by any chance it should be found that there is gold or +lead, silver or iron, or copper, or coal in any abundance, +even under these unpromising conditions it will be +sought. The buffalo is disappearing fast, faster than +the Indian himself. Deer are becoming scarcer every +year. What is to be left for the Red Man? Pastoral +life and agriculture, say the philanthropists. The +substitution, however, is not so easy. The weakness +of the United States Government is the main cause +why the policy of reservations has failed. Let us +take the account of it by a United States Minister. +"The Government," says Mr. Schurz, "has tried to +protect the Indians in good faith against encroachments, +and has failed. It has yielded to the pressure +exercised upon it by people in immediate contact +with the Indians. When a collision between Indians +and whites once occurred, no matter who was responsible +for it, our military forces were always found +on the side of the white against the savage. How +was Government to proclaim that white men should +for ever be excluded from the millions of acres covered +by Indian reservations, and that the national power +would be exerted to do so?" Such an idea the American +Minister thinks would be utterly preposterous. The +rough and ready frontier-man would pick quarrels +with the Indians; the speculators would urge him on. +Government could not prevent collisions; the conflict +once brought on, Government, in spite of its good +intentions and sense of justice, would find itself employing +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">209</a></span> +its forces to hunt down the Indian. The old +story would be repeated, as it will be wherever, says +Mr. Schurz, there is a large and valuable Indian Reservation +surrounded by white settlements, "and unjust, +disgraceful as it is, that is an inevitable result." +Such being the case then, the United States Government +being powerless to see that right shall be done, +and it being at once a human and a Christian duty to +avert, if possible, the extinction of the original possessors +of this grand continent, let us see what can be +done to carry out the object. Fit the Indians, it is +said, for the habits and occupations of civilised life; +give them individual possession of land as property, +a fee-simple title to the fields they cultivate, guarded +by an absolute prohibition of sale—because it has been +found that whenever the Indians are exposed to the +temptation of artful traders, they will be cajoled out +of the titles they have to their land—and you will save +the remnants from utter destruction. I hope it will +be so. I could not but feel a glow of enthusiasm when +I heard the Attorney-General, Mr. MacVeagh, at +Washington, speaking incidentally one day about some +railway matter, declare that he would not sanction +the making of a line of railway through Indian Territory +until he was satisfied that the Indians actually +understood the conditions which had been offered to +them by the company. "I will," said Mr. MacVeagh, +"send down government agents there to ascertain +that the Indians thoroughly understand what they are +doing, and that it is of their own free will and consent +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">210</a></span> +that the railway passes through their territory in exchange +for the money and goods they receive for the +concession." Excellent and just minister! But, alas! +I believe that ere I left the United States the whole +thing was done; the railway company had declared +that they would, whether or no, make their line, and +if an Indian touched a hair of the head of any white +man, the United States Government would not be able +to avert the Divine wrath of every white man on the +border from the whole of the tribe. Well may Mr. +Schurz say that the thought of exterminating a race +once the only occupants of the soil, where so many +millions of our own people have flourished, must be +revolting to every American who is not devoid of all +sentiments of justice and humanity. Extermination +or civilisation is the alternative offered to the Indian. +Now let us see how it is proposed to civilise them. +According to the returns in the Report for 1880, the +number of Indians in the United States, exclusive of +those in Alaska, is 256,127. Of these, 138,642 are +described as wearing citizen's dress. It will be observed +that there is no estimate given of the Indians who +do not wear citizen's dress under this head. Citizens +must be sometimes very badly dressed indeed if the +Indians I saw at various stations along the line to San +Francisco in shocking bad hats and tattered clothes were +to be included amongst those who figured under this +description in the report of the Commissioner. About +17,000 houses are reported as occupied. There are +224 schools, attended by 6000 scholars for a month +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">211</a></span> +or more during the year, scattered over the continent. +About 34,550 Indians could read. There were 154 +church buildings and 74 missionaries. The number of +children of school age was 34,541; but this was an +under estimate. Of these there was only school accommodation +for 9972. The total amount expended for +education during the year by the United States Government +was $249,299; by the State of New York, +$15,863; by the State of Pennsylvania, $325; by +other States, nothing; by religious societies, $46,933; +by tribal funds, $7481. 22,048 Indian families were +engaged in cultivating farms or small patches of +ground; 33,125 male Indians were labouring in civilised +pursuits; and 358 Indian apprentices had been +pursuing trades during the year. This census and +these statistics are stated to be imperfect, and it would +require a close examination of the returns to enable an +inquirer to form any idea as to the progress made in +the direction which we are told is the alternative of +destruction.</p> + +<p>The Reservations of the various Indian tribes are +scattered irregularly over the United States; from +Michigan, Wisconsin, and Minnesota on the north and +north-west, away to the Territories on the other side of +the Rocky Mountains, down to New Mexico and Arizona, +there being none in the southern states bordering the +Atlantic. But there are Red Men of different tribes +located, as the Americans would say, in the States to the +east, such as New York. The Reservations are of irregular +size and extent. Isabella, in the State of Maine, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">212</a></span> +reserved for 848 Indians, lies to the east of 86° longitude, +and south of 44° latitude. There is a considerable +group of Reservations on the western shore of +Lake Michigan in Wisconsin, and in Minnesota. But +the proper Indian territory lies west of Arkansas, +with the Red River on the south, New Mexico on +the west, and Kansas on the north; and in it are +concentrated the Cherokees, Choctaws, Chicasaws, +Comanches, Cheyennes, and several other tribes. The +Navajo Reservation in New Mexico and Arizona ranks +perhaps next in size, extending northwards into +Colorado, where the Utes have got a large tract of +land assigned to them upon what appears now to +be very doubtful or vanishing tenure. These, and +numerous reservations, which it would be tedious to +enumerate, are under the charge of agents appointed +by the Government at Washington, as to whose +functions and personal character and attainments one +hears very surprising and contradictory reports. But +I confess, from a perusal of the documents which they +have furnished to the head of the Department, and +which are published in the Annual Report, there +seems to me no just ground for imputing to these +gentlemen want of zeal, knowledge, interest, or +intelligence. Those who detest the whole work of +saving the Red Man are very apt to impute to the +Indian agents not only corrupt practices in relation to +the sale of government stores and supplies destined +for the use of those under their charge, but illicit +traffic in spirits, which is ruinous to the Red Man, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">213</a></span> +and even some participation in the acts of violence +which have frequently led to Indian troubles. It all +depends upon the manner in which your informant in +the States regards the Indian Question whether the +agents are described as scoundrels whom no man could +trust, or as gentlemen of high propriety and general +excellence.</p> + +<p>The necessities which have been imposed by advancing +civilisation of providing Indians with food +entail a heavy outlay upon the United States Government, +which is much begrudged by large sections of +members of Congress, although they do not see their way +clearly to withhold supplies of food from the unfortunate +people whose hunting-grounds have been occupied, +and who have not yet learned the arts of agriculture, +so as to be able to supply themselves with food. The +transportation of stores, the cost of beef, corn, coffee, +bread, tobacco, tea; in fact, all kinds of food, woollen +goods, clothing, boots, hats, groceries, waggons, tools, +hardware, and medical supplies,—all these duly figure +in the estimates of the Indian Commissioner to a very +considerable amount, and the returns as yet do not +present any large reduction on the annual charge; +although nearly all the agents speak in terms of great +hopefulness of the extraordinary advance which has +been made in their agencies in the cultivation of the +soil.</p> + +<p>One remarkable division of the agencies has reference +to their appropriation to religious denominations. +An Indian might well be puzzled as to his +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">214</a></span> +form of belief if he were passed through the various +agencies, attending at each a religious service or two, +and listening to the teaching of the various divines +attached to them. The Society of Friends have +control of the belief and religious teaching of the +Sante and Nemaja Indians in Nebraska, and of the +Pawnees in the Indian Territory; to the Methodists +are assigned three tribes in California, three tribes in +Washington Territory, two in Oregon, three in Montana, +two in Idaho, and one in Michigan. The Nevada +Cherokees, Creeks, Choctaws, Chicasaws, and Seminoles +are handed over to the Baptists. The Presbyterians +have charge of the Nezpercès in Idaho, Umtas in +Utah; the Apaches, Pueblos, and two other tribes +in New Mexico. The Congregational Church exercises +its religious offices among the tribes in Wisconsin, +among two tribes in Dacotah, and one in Washington +Territory. The Reformed Church has its work +cut out for it in Arizona amongst four tribes. The +Protestant Episcopal Church exercises its jurisdiction +over one tribe in Minnesota, six tribes in Dacotah, one +in Indian Territory, and one in Wyoming. The Unitarians +have apparently only one tribe in teaching, the +Los Pinos in Colorado. The United Presbyterians have +one tribe in Oregon; the Christian Union has another +in Oregon; the Evangelical Lutheran has charge of the +Southern Utes in Colorado; and lastly, the Roman +Catholic Church has two tribes in Washington Territory, +two in Oregon, one in Montana, and two in Dacotah. +As a general rule, the reports of the missionaries +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">215</a></span> +themselves are more sanguine, as they are wont to be, +than are those of disinterested, perhaps unprejudiced, +observers of their work. But, as is natural, the actual +progress made depends very much, not only upon the +nature of the tribe among whom the work is carried +on, but on the character of the missionary, and on his +ability and energy. In some instances, I see the condition +of a tribe is reported as being lamentable, +from a religious point of view, whilst in a neighbouring +reservation, it is stated that great progress has +been made in the establishment of religious teaching +and ideas. The Rosebud Agency is said to prosper in +the hands of one reverend gentlemen; the fathers of +St. Ignatius are described as doing good work amongst +the Flatheads; the Pawnees are left without any missionaries +at all, and, says the government report, "are +probably better off without them." And depreciatory +remarks are slightingly introduced concerning the work +at other agencies. On the Devil's Lake Agency, the majority +of the adults shun the missionaries as they +would the gentleman who may be supposed to own the +lake by the sides of which they are encamped. The +Jesuit fathers and the Catholic sisters are described +as working generally with zeal and success, whilst one +agency assigned to the Methodists is said to have +no religious agency at all. It is to the success of +the attempts made to educate the Indians at the +public establishments that the philanthropist and +humanitarian must look with the most hopefulness.</p> + +<p>All the reports of the teachers and visitors of these +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">216</a></span> +schools coincide in one point, that the young Indian +is most teachable, and that in respect of acquiring +knowledge he is, if anything, the superior of the white, +who seems to enjoy no hereditary excellence in his +capacity for acquiring knowledge. The Bill to which +the Report was an introduction may be considered +indeed as the Magna Charta of the Indian tribes if +it be followed up by judicious treatment, and careful +management of and consideration for the rights conferred +upon these tribes as preliminary to their absorption +as citizens in the mass of the nation, when +they are fit for such an amalgamation with the white +races. The advance of the United States westwards +has left vacant many military posts and barracks, +stranded, as it were, high and dry in the midst of +the torrent of civilisation. Fort Bridger, Wyoming; +Carlisle Barracks, Pennsylvania; Fort Craig, New +Mexico; Fort Cummings, in the same territory, and +a number of others, have been named as suitable for +the purpose of educating the Indian children; and it +was in pursuance of the measure recommended to Congress +that the various agencies throughout the Indian +Territories were directed to forward children whom +their parents might wish to entrust to the officers of +the United States for education. "Received in the +rudest state of savagism," says the Report, "their progress +is already most remarkable." I have already +remarked that the health of the boys is not generally +satisfactory. Their sanitary condition is bad; and it +would appear that sometimes in these long and tedious +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">217</a></span> +journeyings from the remote Indian agencies the poor +children suffer much.</p> + +<p>Even at the present moment the Anglo-Saxon +appears to be dealing with the Maori in New Zealand +very much as he has dealt with the native in Tasmania +and in Australia. The history of our relations with +the New Zealand chiefs and people is not in a nature +to enable us to throw stones at the Americans with +impunity, for the glass house in which we live can +very easily be reached. Some sixteen or seventeen +years ago a rebellion, arising out of the aggressions of +the white settlers on the lands of the Maori, was +averted by a Proclamation and by Acts confiscating +a large tract of Tallinassey, which became theoretically +the property of the Crown. Of course the +natives had as little to say to that as the lady who is +mentioned in 'Tristram Shandy' had with the declaration +that "she was not related to her own child." +But they did not recognise the occupancy, and whenever +a white man settled upon a portion of the ground +they pulled down his fences and removed his landmarks. +The contest is still going on, but no one who +is acquainted with the history of the colony will doubt +what the end will be; and it is coming soon, or it is +to come, the moment the colonists are bent upon +taking the land, and when it is desired to do so.</p> + +<p>"It but feebly expresses the judgment formed from +what we have observed to say that we regard the experiment +made in this school to educate and improve +Indian children as in every way a very remarkable +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">218</a></span> +success." <i>Si sic omnes!</i> Why does not the United +States Government, or if not the Government, the +people, abounding in wealth, full of pious impulses, +humane, charitable, who justly say that the worst use +you can make of an Indian is to hang him; why do +not the political economists who declare that it costs a +million of dollars to get rid of an Indian with gunpowder +and lead; why do not the enterprising and +wealthy capitalists who desire to appropriate Indian +Reservations all combine to extend the work of these +schools so as to absorb all that remains of the Red +Man in the rising generation amongst the citizens of +the great Republic? A blessed work, worthy of an +imperial State, truly great and truly good!</p> + +<p class="center p4">THE END.</p> +<hr class="l30 p4" /> + +<p class="center s08">LONDON:<br /> + +PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED.<br /> + +STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING CROSS.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"> +<h2 class="fntitle">FOOTNOTES</h2> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_A" id="Footnote_A" href="#FNanchor_A"><span class="label">[A]</span></a> How Mr. Garrett executed his mission and killed the Kid is +narrated in the account of the desperados of the West, which forms a +separate chapter.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_B" id="Footnote_B" href="#FNanchor_B"><span class="label">[B]</span></a>The day of our departure from the United States, after the visit +of which I have been giving the details, was the date of a great crime, +of which we were then ignorant. About the very time that we were +on our way to the wharf to embark on board the "<i>City of Berlin</i>," the +murderer of the President was accomplishing his purpose. But with +all the means and appliances which exist for the despatch of news, +I believe that the commission of the crime was not known till the +steamer had passed out to sea from the Sand Heads.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_C" id="Footnote_C" href="#FNanchor_C"><span class="label">[C]</span></a> <i>See also</i> Rose Library.</p> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C1" id="Page_C1">1</a></span></p> + +<p class="center p6"><i>A Catalogue of American and Foreign Books Published or +Imported by</i> <span class="smcap">Messrs. Sampson Low & Co.</span> <i>can +be had on application.</i></p> + +<p class="center"> +<i>Crown Buildings, 188, Fleet Street, London,<br /> +January, 1881.</i></p> + +<p class="center"><span class="b12">A Selection from the List of Books</span><br /> + +PUBLISHED BY<br /> + +<span class="b12">SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, & RIVINGTON.</span></p> + +<hr class="l05" /> +<p class="center">ALPHABETICAL LIST.</p> + +<p class="hanging"> +<i>A Classified Educational Catalogue of Works</i> published +in Great Britain. Demy 8vo, cloth extra. Second Edition, +revised and corrected to Christmas, 1879, 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>About Some Fellows.</i> By an <span class="smcap">Eton Boy</span>, Author of "A Day +of my Life." Cloth limp, square 16mo, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Adventures of Captain Mago.</i> A Phœnician's Explorations +1000 years <span class="smcap">B.C.</span> By <span class="smcap">Leon Cahun</span>. Numerous Illustrations. Crown +8vo, cloth extra, gilt edges, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; plainer binding, 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Adventures of a Young Naturalist.</i> By <span class="smcap">Lucien Biart</span>, with +117 beautiful Illustrations on Wood. Edited and adapted by <span class="smcap">Parker +Gillmore</span>. Post 8vo, cloth extra, gilt edges, New Edition, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Afghan Knife (The).</i> A Novel. By <span class="smcap">Robert Armitage +Sterndale</span>, Author of "Seonee." Small post 8vo, cloth extra, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>After Sundown; or, The Palette and the Pen.</i> By <span class="smcap">W. W. Fenn</span>, +Author of "Blind-Man's Holiday," &c. With Portrait of Author. +2 vols., crown 8vo, cloth extra, 24<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Albania: A Narrative of Recent Travel.</i> By <span class="smcap">E. F. 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Schütz Wilson</span>, of the Alpine Club. With Illustrations by +<span class="smcap">Whymper</span> and <span class="smcap">Marcus Stone</span>. Crown 8vo, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> 2nd Edition.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Andersen (Hans Christian) Fairy Tales.</i> With Illustrations in +Colours by E. V. B. Royal 4to, cloth, 25<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Architecture (The Twenty Styles of).</i> By Dr. <span class="smcap">W. Wood</span>, Author +of "The Hundred Greatest Men." Imperial 8vo, with 52 Plates.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Art Education.</i> <i>See</i> "Illustrated Text Books."</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Autobiography of Sir G. Gilbert Scott, R.A., F.S.A., &c.</i> +Edited by his Son, <span class="smcap">G. Gilbert Scott</span>. With an Introduction by the +<span class="smcap">Dean of Chichester</span>, and a Funeral Sermon, preached in Westminster +Abbey, by the <span class="smcap">Dean of Westminster</span>. Also, Portrait on +steel from the portrait of the Author by <span class="smcap">G. Richmond</span>, R.A. 1 vol., +demy 8vo, cloth extra, 18<i>s.</i></p> + +<hr class="l30" /> +<p class="center b12">THE BAYARD SERIES,</p> + +<p class="center">Edited by the late <span class="smcap">J. Hain Friswell</span>.<br /> + +Comprising Pleasure Books of Literature produced in the Choicest Style as +Companionable Volumes at Home and Abroad.</p> + +<p class="review">"We can hardly imagine better books for boys to read or for men to ponder +over."—<i>Times.</i></p> + +<p class="review"><i>Price 2s. 6d. each Volume, complete in itself, flexible cloth extra, gilt edges, +with silk Headbands and Registers.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">The Story of the Chevalier Bayard. +By M. De Berville.</p> + +<p class="hanging">De Joinville's St. Louis, King of +France.</p> + +<p class="hanging">The Essays of Abraham Cowley, including +all his Prose Works.</p> + +<p class="hanging">Abdallah; or, The Four Leaves. +By Edouard Laboullaye. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C3" id="Page_C3">3</a></span></p> + +<p class="hanging">Table-Talk and Opinions of Napoleon +Buonaparte.</p> + +<p class="hanging">Vathek: An Oriental Romance. +By William Beckford.</p> + +<p class="hanging">The King and the Commons. A +Selection of Cavalier and Puritan +Songs. Edited by Professor +Morley.</p> + +<p class="hanging">Words of Wellington: Maxims and +Opinions of the Great Duke.</p> + +<p class="hanging">Dr. Johnson's Rasselas, Prince of +Abyssinia. With Notes.</p> + +<p class="hanging">Hazlitt's Round Table. With Biographical +Introduction.</p> + +<p class="hanging">The Religio Medici, Hydriotaphia, +and the Letter to a Friend. By +Sir Thomas Browne, Knt.</p> + +<p class="hanging">Ballad Poetry of the Affections. By +Robert Buchanan.</p> + +<p class="hanging">Coleridge's Christabel, and other +Imaginative Poems. With Preface +by Algernon C. Swinburne.</p> + +<p class="hanging">Lord Chesterfield's Letters, Sentences, +and Maxims. With Introduction +by the Editor, and +Essay on Chesterfield by M. de +Ste.-Beuve, of the French Academy.</p> + +<p class="hanging">Essays in Mosaic. By Thos. Ballantyne.</p> + +<p class="hanging">My Uncle Toby; his Story and his +Friends. Edited by P. Fitzgerald.</p> + +<p class="hanging">Reflections; or, Moral Sentences and +Maxims of the Duke de la Rochefoucauld.</p> + +<p class="hanging">Socrates: Memoirs for English +Readers from Xenophon's Memorabilia. +By Edw. Levien.</p> + +<p class="hanging">Prince Albert's Golden Precepts.</p> + +<p class="center s08"><i>A Case containing 12 Volumes, price 31s. 6d.; or the Case separately, price 3s. 6d.</i></p> + +<hr class="l30" /> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Beauty and the Beast.</i> An Old Tale retold, with Pictures by +E. V. B. 4to, cloth extra. 10 Illustrations in Colours. 12<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Begum's Fortune (The): A New Story.</i> By <span class="smcap">Jules Verne</span>. +Translated by <span class="smcap">W. H. G. Kingston</span>. Numerous Illustrations. +Crown 8vo, cloth, gilt edges, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; plainer binding, plain edges, 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Ben Hur: A Tale of the Christ.</i> By <span class="smcap">L. Wallace</span>. Crown +8vo, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Beumers' German Copybooks.</i> In six gradations at 4<i>d.</i> each.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Biart (Lucien).</i> <i>See</i> "Adventures of a Young Naturalist," +"My Rambles in the New World," "The Two Friends," "Involuntary +Voyage."</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Bickersteth's Hymnal Companion to Book of Common Prayer</i> +may be had in various styles and bindings from 1<i>d.</i> to 21<i>s.</i> <i>Price +List and Prospectus will be forwarded on application.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Bickersteth (Rev. E. H., M.A.) The Reef, and other Parables.</i> +1 vol., square 8vo, with numerous very beautiful Engravings, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>The Clergyman in his Home</i>. Small post 8vo, 1<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>The Master's Home-Call; or, Brief Memorials of</i> +<i>Alice Frances Bickersteth</i>. 20th Thousand. 32mo, cloth gilt, 1<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>The Master's Will</i>. A Funeral Sermon preached +on the Death of Mrs. S. Gurney Buxton. Sewn, 6<i>d.</i>; cloth gilt, 1<i>s.</i> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C4" id="Page_C4">4</a></span></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>The Shadow of the Rock.</i> A +Selection of Religious Poetry. 18mo, cloth extra, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>The Shadowed Home and the Light Beyond.</i> 7th +Edition, crown 8vo, cloth extra, 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Biographies of the Great Artists (Illustrated).</i> Each of the +following Volumes is illustrated with from twelve to twenty full-page +Engravings, printed in the best manner, and bound in ornamental +cloth cover, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> Library Edition, bound in a superior style, +and handsomely ornamented, with gilt top; six Volumes, enclosed +in a cloth case, with lid, £1 11<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> each case.</p> + +<ul class="author_list"> +<li><b>Hogarth.</b></li> +<li><b>Turner.</b></li> +<li><b>Rubens.</b></li> +<li><b>Holbein.</b></li> +<li><b>Tintoretto.</b></li> +<li><b>Little Masters of Germany.</b></li> +<li><b>Fra Angelico and Masaccio.</b></li> +<li><b>Fra Bartolommeo.</b></li> +<li><b>Giotto.</b></li> +<li><b>Raphael.</b></li> +<li><b>Van Dyck and Hals.</b></li> +<li><b>Titian.</b></li> +<li><b>Rembrandt.</b></li> +<li><b>Leonardo da Vinci.</b></li> +<li><b>Gainsborough and Constable.</b></li> +<li><b>Sir David Wilkie.</b></li> +<li><b>Van Eyck.</b></li> +<li><b>Figure Painters of Holland.</b></li> +<li><b>Michel Angelo.</b></li> +<li><b>Delaroche and Vernet.</b></li> +<li><b>Landseer.</b></li> +<li><b>Reynolds.</b></li> +</ul> + +<p class="review">"Few things in the way of small books upon great subjects, avowedly cheap and +necessarily brief, have been hitherto so well done as these biographies of the Great +Masters in painting."—<i>Times.</i></p> + +<p class="review">"A deserving series."—<i>Edinburgh Review.</i></p> + +<p class="review">"Most thoroughly and tastefully edited."—<i>Spectator.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Black (Wm.) Three Feathers.</i> Small post 8vo, cloth extra, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Lady Silverdale's Sweetheart, and other Stories.</i> 1 vol., +small post 8vo, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Kilmeny: a Novel.</i> Small post 8vo, cloth, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>In Silk Attire.</i> 3rd Edition, small post 8vo, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>A Daughter of Heth.</i> 11th Edition, small post 8vo, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Sunrise.</i> 15 Monthly Parts, 1<i>s.</i> each.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Blackmore (R. D.) 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Bosanquet.</span> 2nd Edition, small post 8vo, cloth extra, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Blue Banner (The); or, The Adventures of a Mussulman, a +Christian, and a Pagan, in the time of the Crusades and Mongol +Conquest.</i> Translated from the French of <span class="smcap">Leon Cahun</span>. With +Seventy-six Wood Engravings. Imperial 16mo, cloth, gilt edges, +7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; plainer binding, 5<i>s.</i> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C5" id="Page_C5">5</a></span></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Boy's Froissart (The).</i> 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>See</i> "Froissart."</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Boy's King Arthur (The).</i> With very fine Illustrations. +Square crown 8vo, cloth extra, gilt edges, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> Edited by <span class="smcap">Sidney +Lanier</span>, Editor of "The Boy's Froissart."</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Brazil: the Amazons, and the Coast.</i> By <span class="smcap">Herbert H. Smith</span>. +With 115 Full-page and other Illustrations. Demy 8vo, 650 pp., 21<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Brazil and the Brazilians.</i> By <span class="smcap">J. C. Fletcher</span> and <span class="smcap">D. P. +Kidder</span>. 9th Edition, Illustrated, 8vo, 21<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Breton Folk: An Artistic Tour in Brittany.</i> By <span class="smcap">Henry +Blackburn</span>, Author of "Artists and Arabs," "Normandy Picturesque," +&c. With 171 Illustrations by <span class="smcap">Randolph Caldecott</span>. +Imperial 8vo, cloth extra, gilt edges, 21<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Bricks without Straw.</i> By the Author of "A Fool's Errand." +Crown 8vo, with numerous Illustrations, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>British Goblins: Welsh Folk-Lore, Fairy Mythology, Legends, +and Traditions.</i> By <span class="smcap">Wirt Sykes</span>, United States Consul for Wales. +With Illustrations by <span class="smcap">J. H. Thomas</span>. This account of the Fairy +Mythology and Folk-Lore of his Principality is, by permission, dedicated +to H.R.H. the Prince of Wales. Second Edition. 8vo, 18<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Buckle (Henry Thomas) The Life and Writings of.</i> By <span class="smcap">Alfred +Henry Huth</span>. With Portrait. 2 vols., demy 8vo.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Burnaby (Capt.)</i> <i>See</i> "On Horseback."</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Burnham Beeches (Heath, F. G.).</i> With numerous Illustrations +and a Map. Crown 8vo, cloth, gilt edges, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> Second Edition.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Butler (W. F.) The Great Lone Land; an Account of the Red +River Expedition, 1869-70.</i> With Illustrations and Map. Fifth and +Cheaper Edition, crown 8vo, cloth extra, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>The Wild North Land; the Story of a Winter Journey +with Dogs across Northern North America.</i> Demy 8vo, cloth, with +numerous Woodcuts and a Map, 4th Edition, 18<i>s.</i> Cr. 8vo, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Akim-foo: the History of a Failure.</i> Demy 8vo, cloth, +2nd Edition, 16<i>s.</i> Also, in crown 8vo, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging p2"><i>Cadogan (Lady A.) Illustrated Games of Patience.</i> +Twenty-four Diagrams in Colours, with Descriptive Text. Foolscap +4to, cloth extra, gilt edges, 3rd Edition, 12<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Caldecott (R.).</i> <i>See</i> "Breton Folk."</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Celebrated Travels and Travellers.</i> <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Verne</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Changed Cross (The)</i>, and other Religious Poems. 16mo, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Child of the Cavern (The); or, Strange Doings Underground.</i> +By <span class="smcap">Jules Verne</span>. Translated by <span class="smcap">W. H. G. Kingston</span>. Numerous +Illustrations. Sq. cr. 8vo, gilt edges, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; cl., plain edges, 5<i>s.</i> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C6" id="Page_C6">6</a></span></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Child's Play</i>, with 16 Coloured Drawings by E. V. B. Printed +on thick paper, with tints, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>New</i>. By E. V. B. Similar to the above. <i>See</i> New.</p> + +<p class="hanging">—— A New and Cheap Edition of the two above, containing +48 Illustrations by E. V. B., printed in tint, handsomely +bound, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Children's Lives and How to Preserve Them; or, The Nursery +Handbook.</i> By <span class="smcap">W. Lomas, M.D.</span> Crown 8vo, cloth, 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Choice Editions of Choice Books.</i> 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> each, Illustrated by +<span class="smcap">C. W. Cope</span>, R.A., <span class="smcap">T. Creswick</span>, R.A., <span class="smcap">E. Duncan</span>, <span class="smcap">Birket +Foster</span>, <span class="smcap">J. C. Horsley</span>, A.R.A., <span class="smcap">G. Hicks</span>, <span class="smcap">R. Redgrave</span>, R.A., +<span class="smcap">C. Stonehouse</span>, <span class="smcap">F. Tayler</span>, <span class="smcap">G. Thomas</span>, <span class="smcap">H. J. Townshend</span>, +<span class="smcap">E. H. Wehnert</span>, <span class="smcap">Harrison Weir</span>, &c.</p> + +<ul class="author_list"> +<li>Bloomfield's Farmer's Boy.</li> +<li>Campbell's Pleasures of Hope.</li> +<li>Coleridge's Ancient Mariner.</li> +<li>Goldsmith's Deserted Village.</li> +<li>Goldsmith's Vicar of Wakefield.</li> +<li>Gray's Elegy in a Churchyard.</li> +<li>Keat's Eve of St. Agnes.</li> +<li>Milton's L'Allegro.</li> +<li>Poetry of Nature. Harrison Weir.</li> +<li>Rogers' (Sam.) Pleasures of Memory.</li> +<li>Shakespeare's Songs and Sonnets.</li> +<li>Tennyson's May Queen.</li> +<li>Elizabethan Poets.</li> +<li>Wordsworth's Pastoral Poems.</li> +</ul> + +<p class="review">"Such works are a glorious beatification for a poet."—<i>Athenæum.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Christ in Song.</i> By Dr. <span class="smcap">Philip Schaff</span>. A New Edition, +Revised, cloth, gilt edges, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Cobbett</i> (<i>William</i>). A Biography. By <span class="smcap">Edward Smith</span>. 2 +vols., crown 8vo, 25<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Confessions of a Frivolous Girl (The): A Novel of Fashionable +Life.</i> Edited by <span class="smcap">Robert Grant</span>. Crown 8vo, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Cradle-Land of Arts and Creeds; or, Nothing New under the +Sun.</i> By <span class="smcap">Charles J. Stone</span>, Barrister-at-law, and late Advocate, +High Courts, Bombay. 8vo, pp. 420, cloth, 14<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Cripps the Carrier.</i> 3rd Edition, 6<i>s.</i> See <span class="smcap">Blackmore</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Cruise of H.M.S. "Challenger" (The).</i> By <span class="smcap">W. J. J. Spry</span>, R.N. +With Route Map and many Illustrations. 6th Edition, demy 8vo, cloth, +18<i>s.</i> Cheap Edition, crown 8vo, some of the Illustrations, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Curious Adventures of a Field Cricket.</i> By Dr. <span class="smcap">Ernest +Candèze</span>. Translated by <span class="smcap">N. D'Anvérs</span>. With numerous fine +Illustrations. Crown 8vo, gilt, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; plain binding and edges, 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging p2"><i>Dana (R. H.) Two Years before the Mast and Twenty-Four +years After.</i> Revised. Edition, with Notes, 12mo, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Daughter (A) of Heth.</i> By <span class="smcap">W. Black</span>. Crown 8vo, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Day of My Life (A); or, Every Day Experiences at Eton.</i> +By an <span class="smcap">Eton Boy</span>, Author of "About Some Fellows." 16mo, cloth +extra, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> 6th Thousand. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C7" id="Page_C7">7</a></span></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Diane.</i> By Mrs. <span class="smcap">Macquoid</span>. Crown 8vo, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Dick Cheveley: his Fortunes and Misfortunes.</i> By <span class="smcap">W. H. G. +Kingston</span>. 350 pp., square 16mo, and 22 full-page Illustrations. +Cloth, gilt edges, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; plainer binding, plain edges, 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Dick Sands, the Boy Captain.</i> By <span class="smcap">Jules Verne</span>. With +nearly 100 Illustrations, cloth, gilt, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; plain binding and plain +edges, 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Dictionary (General) of Archæology and Antiquities.</i> From +the French of <span class="smcap">E. Bosc</span>. Crown 8vo, with nearly 200 Illustrations, +10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Dodge (Mrs. M.) Hans Brinker; or, the Silver Skates.</i> An +entirely New Edition, with 59 Full-page and other Woodcuts. +Square crown 8vo, cloth extra, 5<i>s.</i>; Text only, paper, 1<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Dogs of Assize.</i> A Legal Sketch-Book in Black and White. +Containing 6 Drawings by <span class="smcap">Walter J. Allen</span>. Folio, in wrapper, 6<i>s.</i> 8<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging p2"><i>Eight Cousins</i>. <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Alcott</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Eighteenth Century Studies.</i> Essays by <span class="smcap">F. Hitchman</span>. +Demy 8vo, 18<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Elementary Education in Saxony.</i> By <span class="smcap">J. L. Bashford</span>, M.A., +Trin. Coll., Camb. For Masters and Mistresses of Elementary +Schools. Sewn, 1<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Elinor Dryden.</i> By Mrs. <span class="smcap">Macquoid</span>. Crown 8vo, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Embroidery (Handbook of).</i> By <span class="smcap">L. Higgin</span>. Edited by <span class="smcap">Lady +Marian Alford</span>, and published by authority of the Royal School of +Art Needlework. With 16 page Illustrations, Designs for Borders, +&c. Crown 8vo, 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>English Philosophers.</i> Edited by <span class="smcap">Iwan Muller</span>, M.A., New +College, Oxon. A Series of Volumes containing short biographies +of the most celebrated English Philosophers, to each of whom is +assigned a separate volume, giving as comprehensive and detailed a +statement of his views and contributions to Philosophy as possible, +explanatory rather than critical, opening with a brief biographical +sketch, and concluding with a short general summary, and a bibliographical +appendix. The Volumes will be issued at brief intervals, in +square 16mo, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>, containing about 200 pp. each.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>The following are in the press</i>:—-</p> +<ul class="author_list"> +<li><b>Bacon.</b> Professor <span class="smcap">Fowler</span>, Professor of Logic in Oxford.</li> + +<li><b>Berkeley.</b> Professor <span class="smcap">T. H. Green</span>, Professor of Moral Philosophy, +Oxford.</li> + +<li><b>Hamilton.</b> Professor <span class="smcap">Monk</span>, Professor of Moral Philosophy, Dublin. +[<i>Ready.</i></li> + +<li><b>J. S. Mill.</b> <span class="smcap">Helen Taylor</span>, Editor of "The Works of Buckle," &c. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C8" id="Page_C8">8</a></span></li> + +<li><b>Mansel.</b> Rev. <span class="smcap">J. H. Huckin, D.D.</span>, Head Master of Repton.</li> + +<li><b>Adam Smith.</b> <span class="smcap">J. A. Farrer, M.A.</span>, Author of "Primitive Manners and Customs." +[<i>Ready.</i></li> + +<li><b>Hobbes.</b> <span class="smcap">A. H. Gosset, B.A.</span>, Fellow of New College, Oxford.</li> + +<li><b>Bentham.</b> <span class="smcap">G. E. Buckle, M.A.</span>, Fellow of All Souls', Oxford.</li> + +<li><b>Austin.</b> <span class="smcap">Harry Johnson, B.A.</span>, late Scholar of Queen's College, Oxford.</li> + +<li><b>Hartley.</b> } <span class="smcap">E. S. Bowen, B.A.</span>, late Scholar of New College,</li> + +<li><b>James Mill.</b> } Oxford. +[<i>Ready.</i></li> + +<li><b>Shaftesbury.</b> } Professor <span class="smcap">Fowler</span>.</li> + +<li><b>Hutcheson.</b> }</li> +</ul> + +<p class="review"><i>Arrangements are in progress for volumes on</i> <span class="smcap">Locke</span>, <span class="smcap">Hume</span>, <span class="smcap">Paley</span>, <span class="smcap">Reid</span>, <i>&c.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Episodes of French History.</i> Edited, with Notes, Genealogical, +Historical, and other Tables, by <span class="smcap">Gustave Masson, B.A.</span></p> +<ul class="author_list"> +<li><b>1. Charlemagne and the Carlovingians.</b></li> + +<li><b>2. Louis XI. and the Crusades.</b></li> + +<li><b>3. Francis I. and Charles V.</b></li> + +<li><b>4. Francis I. and the Renaissance.</b></li> +</ul> +<p class="review">The above Series is based upon M. Guizot's "History of France." +Each volume is choicely Illustrated, with Maps, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Erema; or, My Father's Sin.</i> <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Blackmore</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Etcher (The).</i> Containing 36 Examples of the Original +Etched work of Celebrated Artists, amongst others: <span class="smcap">Birket Foster</span>, +<span class="smcap">J. E. Hodgson, R.A.</span>, <span class="smcap">Colin Hunter</span>, <span class="smcap">J. P. Heseltine</span>, <span class="smcap">Robert +W. Macbeth</span>, <span class="smcap">R. S. Chattock</span>, <span class="smcap">H. R. Robertson</span>, &c., &c. +Imperial 4to, cloth extra, gilt edges, 2<i>l.</i> 12<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Eton.</i> <i>See</i> "Day of my Life," "Out of School," "About Some +Fellows."</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Evans (C.) Over the Hills and Far Away.</i> By <span class="smcap">C. Evans</span>. +One Volume, crown 8vo, cloth extra, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>A Strange Friendship.</i> Crown 8vo, cloth, 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Eve of Saint Agnes (The).</i> By <span class="smcap">John Keats</span>. Illustrated with +Nineteen Etchings by <span class="smcap">Charles O. Murray</span>. Folio, cloth extra, 21<i>s.</i> +An Edition de Luxe on large paper, containing proof impressions, has +been printed, and specially bound, 3<i>l.</i> 3<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging p2"><i>Farm Ballads.</i> By <span class="smcap">Will Carleton</span>. Boards, 1<i>s.</i>; cloth, +gilt edges, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Fern Paradise (The): A Plea for the Culture of Ferns.</i> By +<span class="smcap">F. G. Heath</span>. New Edition, entirely Rewritten, Illustrated with +Eighteen full-page, numerous other Woodcuts, including 8 Plates of +Ferns and Four Photographs, large post 8vo, cloth, gilt edges, 12<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> +Sixth Edition. In 12 Parts, sewn, 1<i>s.</i> each.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C9" id="Page_C9">9</a></span> +<i>Fern World (The).</i> By <span class="smcap">F. G. Heath</span>. Illustrated by Twelve +Coloured Plates, giving complete Figures (Sixty-four in all) of every +Species of British Fern, printed from Nature; by several full-page +Engravings. Cloth, gilt, 6th Edition, 12<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="review">"Mr. <span class="smcap">Heath</span> has really given us good, well-written descriptions of our native +Ferns, with indications of their habitats, the conditions under which they grow +naturally, and under which they may be cultivated."—<i>Athenæum.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Few (A) Hints on Proving Wills.</i> Enlarged Edition, 1<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>First Steps in Conversational French Grammar.</i> By <span class="smcap">F. Julien</span>. +Being an Introduction to "Petites Leçons de Conversation et de +Grammaire," by the same Author. Fcap. 8vo, 128 pp., 1<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Flooding of the Sahara (The).</i> <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Mackenzie</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Food for the People; or, Lentils and other Vegetable Cookery.</i> +By <span class="smcap">E. E. Orlebar</span>. Third Thousand. Small post 8vo, boards, 1<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Fool's Errand (A).</i> By <span class="smcap">One of the Fools</span>. Author of "Bricks +without Straw." Crown 8vo, cloth extra, with numerous Illustrations, +8<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Footsteps of the Master.</i> <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Stowe</span> (Mrs. <span class="smcap">Beecher</span>).</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Forbidden Land (A): Voyages to the Corea.</i> By <span class="smcap">G. Oppert</span>. +Numerous Illustrations and Maps. Demy 8vo, cloth extra, 21<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Four Lectures on Electric Induction.</i> Delivered at the Royal +Institution, 1878-9. By <span class="smcap">J. E. H. Gordon</span>, B.A. Cantab. With +numerous Illustrations. Cloth limp, square 16mo, 3<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Foreign Countries and the British Colonies.</i> Edited by <span class="smcap">F. S. +Pulling</span>, M.A., Lecturer at Queen's College, Oxford, and formerly +Professor at the Yorkshire College, Leeds. A Series of small Volumes +descriptive of the principal Countries of the World by well-known +Authors, each Country being treated of by a Writer who from +Personal Knowledge is qualified to speak with authority on the Subject. +The Volumes average 180 crown 8vo pages each, contain 2 Maps +and Illustrations, crown 8vo, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="center s08"><i>The following is a List of the Volumes</i>:—</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Denmark and Iceland.</b> By <span class="smcap">E. C. Otte</span>, Author of "Scandinavian +History," &c.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Greece.</b> By <span class="smcap">L. Sergeant</span>, B.A., Knight of the Hellenic Order +of the Saviour, Author of "New Greece."</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Switzerland.</b> By <span class="smcap">W. A. P. Coolidge</span>, M.A., Fellow of +Magdalen College, Editor of <i>The Alpine Journal</i>.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Austria.</b> By <span class="smcap">D. Kay</span>, F.R.G.S.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Russia.</b> By <span class="smcap">W. R. Morfill</span>, M.A., Oriel College, Oxford, +Lecturer on the Ilchester Foundation, &c.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Persia.</b> By Major-Gen. Sir <span class="smcap">F. J. Goldsmid</span>, K.C.S.I., Author of +"Telegraph and Travel," &c.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Japan.</b> By <span class="smcap">S. Mossman</span>, Author of "New Japan," &c.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Peru.</b> By <span class="smcap">Clements H. Markham</span>, M.A., C.B.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Canada.</b> By <span class="smcap">W. Fraser Rae</span>, Author of "Westward by +Rail," &c.</p> + +<p class="country"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C10" id="Page_C10">10</a></span> +<b>Sweden and Norway.</b> By the Rev. <span class="smcap">F. H. Woods</span>, M.A., Fellow +of St. John's College, Oxford.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>The West Indies.</b> By <span class="smcap">C. H. Eden</span>, F.R.G.S., Author of "Frozen +Asia," &c.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>New Zealand.</b></p> + +<p class="country"><b>France.</b> By Miss <span class="smcap">M. Roberts</span>, Author of "The Atelier du Lys," +"Mdlle. Mori," &c.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Egypt.</b> By <span class="smcap">S. Lane Poole</span>, B.A., Author of "The Life of Edward +Lane," &c.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Spain.</b> By the Rev. <span class="smcap">Wentworth Webster</span>, M.A., Chaplain at +St. Jean de Luz.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Turkey-in-Asia.</b> By <span class="smcap">J. C. McCoan</span>, M.P.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Australia.</b> By <span class="smcap">J. F. Vesey Fitzgerald</span>, late Premier of New +South Wales.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Holland.</b> By <span class="smcap">R. L. Poole</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Franc (Maude Jeane).</i> The following form one Series, small +post 8vo, in uniform cloth bindings, with gilt edges:—</p> + +<ul class="none"> +<li>—— <i>Emily's Choice.</i> 5<i>s.</i></li> +<li>—— <i>Hall's Vineyard.</i> 4<i>s.</i></li> +<li>—— <i>John's Wife: a Story of Life in South Australia.</i> 4<i>s.</i></li> +<li>—— <i>Marian; or, the Light of Some One's Home.</i> 5<i>s.</i></li> +<li>—— <i>Silken Cords and Iron Fetters.</i> 4<i>s.</i></li> +<li>—— <i>Vermont Vale.</i> 5<i>s.</i></li> +<li>—— <i>Minnie's Mission.</i> 4<i>s.</i></li> +<li>—— <i>Little Mercy.</i> 5<i>s.</i></li> +<li>—— <i>Beatrice Melton's Discipline.</i> 4<i>s.</i></li> +</ul> + +<p class="hanging p2"><i>Froissart (The Boy's).</i> Selected from the Chronicles of England, +France, Spain, &c. By <span class="smcap">Sidney Lanier</span>. The Volume is +fully Illustrated, and uniform with "The Boy's King Arthur." Crown +8vo, cloth, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging p2"><i>Games of patience.</i> <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Cadogan</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Gentle Life</i> (Queen Edition). 2 vols, in 1, small 4to, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> +<hr class="l15" /> +<p class="center b12">THE GENTLE LIFE SERIES.</p> + +<p class="center">Price 6<i>s.</i> each; or in calf extra, price 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; Smaller Edition, cloth +extra, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="review">A Reprint (with the exception of "Familiar Words" and "Other +People's Windows") has been issued in very neat limp cloth bindings +at 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> each.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>The Gentle Life.</i> Essays in aid of the Formation of Character +of Gentlemen and Gentlewomen. 21st Edition.</p> + +<p class="review">"Deserves to be printed in letters of gold, and circulated in every house."—<i>Chambers' +Journal.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C11" id="Page_C11">11</a></span> +<i>About in the World.</i> Essays by Author of "The Gentle Life."</p> + +<p class="review">"It is not easy to open it at any page without finding some handy idea."—<i>Morning +Post.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Like unto Christ.</i> A New Translation of Thomas à Kempis' +"De Imitatione Christi." 2nd Edition.</p> + +<p class="review">"Could not be presented in a more exquisite form, for a more sightly volume was +never seen."—<i>Illustrated London News.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Familiar Words.</i> An Index Verborum, or Quotation Handbook. +Affording an immediate Reference to Phrases and Sentences +that have become embedded in the English language. 4th and +enlarged Edition. 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="review">"The most extensive dictionary of quotation we have met with."—<i>Notes and +Queries.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Essays by Montaigne.</i> Edited and Annotated by the Author +of "The Gentle Life." With Portrait. 2nd Edition.</p> + +<p class="review">"We should be glad if any words of ours could help to bespeak a large circulation +for this handsome attractive book."—<i>Illustrated Times.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>The Countess of Pembroke's Arcadia.</i> Written by Sir <span class="smcap">Philip +Sidney</span>. Edited with Notes by Author of "The Gentle Life." 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="review">"All the best things are retained intact in Mr. Friswell's edition."—<i>Examiner.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>The Gentle Life.</i> 2nd Series, 8th Edition.</p> + +<p class="review">"There is not a single thought in the volume that does not contribute in some +measure to the formation of a true gentleman."—<i>Daily News.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>The Silent Hour: Essays, Original and Selected.</i> By the +Author of "The Gentle Life." 3rd Edition.</p> + +<p class="review">"All who possess 'The Gentle Life' should own this volume."—<i>Standard.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Half-Length Portraits.</i> Short Studies of Notable Persons. +By <span class="smcap">J. Hain Friswell</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Essays on English Writers</i>, for the Self-improvement of +Students in English Literature.</p> + +<p class="review">"To all who have neglected to read and study their native literature we would +certainly suggest the volume before us as a fitting introduction."—<i>Examiner.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Other People's Windows.</i> By <span class="smcap">J. Hain Friswell</span>. 3rd Edition.</p> + +<p class="review">"The chapters are so lively in themselves, so mingled with shrewd views of +human nature, so full of illustrative anecdotes, that the reader cannot fail to be +amused."—<i>Morning Post.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>A Man's Thoughts.</i> By <span class="smcap">J. Hain Friswell</span>.</p> +<hr class="l15" /> +<p class="hanging"><i>German Primer.</i> Being an Introduction to First Steps in +German. By <span class="smcap">M. T. Preu</span>. 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Getting On in the World; or, Hints on Success in Life.</i> By +<span class="smcap">W. Mathews</span>, LL.D. Small post 8vo, cloth, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; gilt edges, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Gilpin's Forest Scenery.</i> Edited by <span class="smcap">F. G. Heath</span>. Large +post 8vo, with numerous Illustrations. Uniform with "The Fern +World," 12<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> In 6 monthly parts, 2<i>s.</i> each.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C12" id="Page_C12">12</a></span> +<i>Gordon (J. E. H.).</i> <i>See</i> "Four Lectures on Electric Induction," +"Physical Treatise on Electricity," &c.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Gouffé. The Royal Cookery Book.</i> By <span class="smcap">Jules Gouffé</span>; translated +and adapted for English use by <span class="smcap">Alphonse Gouffé</span>, Head +Pastrycook to her Majesty the Queen. Illustrated with large plates +printed in colours. 161 Woodcuts, 8vo, cloth extra, gilt edges, 2<i>l.</i> 2<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— Domestic Edition, half-bound, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="review">"By far the ablest and most complete work on cookery that has ever been submitted +to the gastronomical world."—<i>Pall Mall Gazette.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Great Artists.</i> <i>See</i> "Biographies."</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Great Historic Galleries of England (The).</i> Edited by <span class="smcap">Lord +Ronald Gower</span>, F.S.A., Trustee of the National Portrait Gallery. +Illustrated by 24 large and carefully-executed <i>permanent</i> Photographs +of some of the most celebrated Pictures by the Great Masters. Imperial +4to, cloth extra, gilt edges, 36<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Great Musicians (The).</i> A Series of Biographies of the Great +Musicians. Edited by <span class="smcap">F. Hueffer</span>.</p> + +<ul class="author_list"> +<li><b>1. Wagner.</b> By the <span class="smcap">Editor</span>.</li> +<li><b>2. Weber.</b> By Sir <span class="smcap">Julius Benedict</span>.</li> +<li><b>3. Mendelssohn.</b> By <span class="smcap">Joseph Bennett</span>.</li> +<li><b>4. Schubert.</b> By <span class="smcap">H. F. Frost</span>.</li> +<li><b>5. Rossini</b>, and the Modern Italian School. By <span class="smcap">H. Sutherland Edwards</span>.</li> +<li><b>6. Marcello.</b> By <span class="smcap">Arrigo Boito</span>.</li> +<li><b>7. Purcell.</b> By <span class="smcap">H. W. Cummings</span>.</li> +</ul> + +<p class="review">Dr. Hiller and other distinguished writers, both English and +Foreign, have promised contributions. Each Volume is complete in +itself. Small post 8vo, cloth extra, 3<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Guizot's History of France.</i> Translated by <span class="smcap">Robert Black</span>. +Super-royal 8vo, very numerous Full-page and other Illustrations. In +8 vols., cloth extra, gilt, each 24<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="review">"It supplies a want which has long been felt, and ought to be in the hands of all +students of history."—<i>Times.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— —— <i>Masson's School Edition.</i> The +History of France from the Earliest Times to the Outbreak of the +Revolution; abridged from the Translation by Robert Black, M.A., +with Chronological Index, Historical and Genealogical Tables, &c. +By Professor <span class="smcap">Gustave Masson</span>, B.A., Assistant Master at Harrow +School. With 24 full-page Portraits, and many other Illustrations. +1 vol., demy 8vo, 600 pp., cloth extra, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Guizot's History of England.</i> In 3 vols. of about 500 pp. each, +containing 60 to 70 Full-page and other Illustrations, cloth extra, gilt, +24<i>s.</i> each.</p> + +<p class="review">"For luxury of typography, plainness of print, and beauty of illustration, these +volumes, of which but one has as yet appeared in English, will hold their own +against any production of an age so luxurious as our own in everything, typography +not excepted."—<i>Times.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Guyon (Mde.) Life.</i> By <span class="smcap">Upham</span>. 6th Edition, crown 8vo, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C13" id="Page_C13">13</a></span> +<i>Handbook to the Charities of London.</i> <i>See</i> Low's.</p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>of Embroidery</i>; <i>which see</i>.</p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>to the Principal Schools of England.</i> <i>See</i> Practical.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Half-Hours of Blind Man's Holiday; or, Summer and Winter +Sketches in Black and White.</i> By <span class="smcap">W. W. Fenn</span>, Author of "After +Sundown," &c. 2 vols., cr. 8vo, 24<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Hall (W. W.) How to Live Long; or, 1408 Health Maxims, +Physical, Mental, and Moral.</i> By <span class="smcap">W. W. Hall</span>, A.M., M.D. +Small post 8vo, cloth, 2<i>s.</i> Second Edition.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Hans Brinker; or, the Silver Skates.</i> <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Dodge</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Harper's Monthly Magazine.</i> Published Monthly. 160 pages, +fully Illustrated. 1<i>s.</i> With two Serial Novels by celebrated Authors.</p> + +<p class="review">"'Harper's Magazine' is so thickly sown with excellent illustrations that to count +them would be a work of time; not that it is a picture magazine, for the engravings +illustrate the text after the manner seen in some of our choicest <i>editions de luxe</i>."—<i>St. +James's Gazette.</i></p> + +<p class="review">"It is so pretty, so big, and so cheap.... An extraordinary shillingsworth—160 +large octavo pages, with over a score of articles, and more than three times as +many illustrations."—<i>Edinburgh Daily Review.</i></p> + +<p class="review">"An amazing shillingsworth ... combining choice literature of both nations."—<i>Nonconformist.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Heart of Africa.</i> Three Years' Travels and Adventures in the +Unexplored Regions of Central Africa, from 1868 to 1871. By Dr. +<span class="smcap">Georg Schweinfurth</span>. Numerous Illustrations, and large Map. +2 vols., crown 8vo, cloth, 15<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Heath (Francis George).</i> <i>See</i> "Fern World," "Fern Paradise," +"Our Woodland Trees," "Trees and Ferns," "Gilpin's Forest +Scenery," "Burnham Beeches," "Sylvan Spring," &c.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Heber's (Bishop) Illustrated Edition of Hymns.</i> With upwards +of 100 beautiful Engravings. Small 4to, handsomely bound, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> +Morocco, 18<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> and 21<i>s.</i> An entirely New Edition.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Heir of Kilfinnan (The).</i> New Story by <span class="smcap">W. H. G. Kingston</span>, +Author of "Snow Shoes and Canoes," &c. With Illustrations. Cloth, +gilt edges, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; plainer binding, plain edges, 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>History and Handbook of Photography.</i> Translated from the +French of <span class="smcap">Gaston Tissandier</span>. Edited by <span class="smcap">J. Thomson</span>. Imperial +16mo, over 300 pages, 70 Woodcuts, and Specimens of Prints by the +best Permanent Processes. Second Edition, with an Appendix by +the late Mr. <span class="smcap">Henry Fox Talbot</span>. Cloth extra, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>History of a Crime (The); Deposition of an Eye-witness.</i> By +<span class="smcap">Victor Hugo</span>. 4 vols., crown 8vo, 42<i>s.</i> Cheap Edition, 1 vol., 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Ancient Art.</i> Translated from the German of <span class="smcap">John +Winckelmann</span>, by <span class="smcap">John Lodge</span>, M.D. With very numerous +Plates and Illustrations. 2 vols., 8vo, 36<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>England.</i> <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Guizot</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>France.</i> <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Guizot</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C14" id="Page_C14">14</a></span> +—— <i>Russia.</i> <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Rambaud</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Merchant Shipping.</i> <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Lindsay</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>United States.</i> <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Bryant</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>History and Principles of Weaving by Hand and by Power.</i> With +several hundred Illustrations. By <span class="smcap">Alfred Barlow</span>. Royal 8vo, +cloth extra, 1<i>l.</i> 5<i>s.</i> Second Edition.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>How I Crossed Africa: from the Atlantic to the Indian Ocean, +Through Unknown Countries; Discovery of the Great Zambesi +Affluents, &c.</i>—Vol. I., The King's Rifle. Vol. II., The Coillard +Family. By Major <span class="smcap">Serpa Pinto</span>. With 24 full-page and 118 half-page +and smaller Illustrations, 13 small Maps, and 1 large one. +2 vols., demy 8vo, cloth extra, 42<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>How to Live Long.</i> <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Hall</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>How to get Strong and how to Stay so.</i> By <span class="smcap">William Blaikie</span>. +A Manual of Rational, Physical, Gymnastic, and other Exercises. +With Illustrations, small post 8vo, 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Hugo (Victor). "Ninety-Three."</i> Illustrated. Crown 8vo, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Toilers of the Sea.</i> Crown 8vo. Illustrated, 6<i>s.</i>; fancy +boards, 2<i>s.</i>; cloth, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; On large paper with all the original +Illustrations, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>See</i> "History of a Crime."</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Hundred Greatest Men (The).</i> 8 portfolios, 21<i>s.</i> each, or 4 +vols., half morocco, gilt edges, 12 guineas, containing 15 to 20 +Portraits each. See below.</p> + +<p class="review">"Messrs. <span class="smcap">Sampson Low & Co.</span> are about to issue an important 'International' +work, entitled, 'THE HUNDRED GREATEST MEN;' being the Lives and +Portraits of the 100 Greatest Men of History, divided into Eight Classes, each Class +to form a Monthly Quarto Volume. The Introductions to the volumes are to be +written by recognized authorities on the different subjects, the English contributors +being <span class="smcap">Dean Stanley</span>, Mr. <span class="smcap">Matthew Arnold</span>, Mr. <span class="smcap">Froude</span>, and Professor <span class="smcap">Max +Müller</span>; in Germany, Professor <span class="smcap">Helmholtz</span>; in France, MM. <span class="smcap">Taine</span> and +<span class="smcap">Renan</span>; and in America, Mr. <span class="smcap">Emerson</span>. The Portraits are to be Reproductions +from fine and rare Steel Engravings."—<i>Academy.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Hygiene and Public Health (A Treatise on).</i> Edited by <span class="smcap">A. H. +Buck</span>, M.D. Illustrated by numerous Wood Engravings. In 2 +royal 8vo vols., cloth, one guinea each.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Hymnal Companion to Book of Common Prayer.</i> <i>See</i> +<span class="smcap">Bickersteth</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging p2"><i>Illustrated Text-Books of Art-Education.</i> Edited by +<span class="smcap">Edward J. Poynter</span>, R.A. Each Volume contains numerous Illustrations, +and is strongly bound for the use of Students, price 5<i>s.</i> The +Volumes now ready are:—</p> + +<p class="center">PAINTING.</p> + +<ul class="author_list"> +<li><b>Classic and Italian.</b> By <span class="smcap">Percy R. Head</span>. With 50 Illustrations, 5<i>s.</i></li> +<li><b>German, Flemish, and Dutch.</b></li> +<li><b>French and Spanish.</b></li> +<li><b>English and American.</b></li> +</ul> + +<p class="center">ARCHITECTURE. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C15" id="Page_C15">15</a></span></p> + +<ul class="author_list"> +<li><b>Classic and Early Christian.</b></li> +<li><b>Gothic and Renaissance.</b> By <span class="smcap">T. Roger Smith</span>. With 50 Illustrations, 5<i>s.</i></li> +</ul> + +<p class="center">SCULPTURE.</p> + +<ul class="author_list"> +<li><b>Antique: Egyptian and Greek.</b></li> +<li><b>Renaissance and Modern.</b></li> +</ul> + +<p class="center">ORNAMENT.</p> + +<ul class="author_list"> +<li><b>Decoration in Colour.</b></li> +<li><b>Architectural Ornament.</b></li> +</ul> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Illustrations of China and its People.</i> By <span class="smcap">J. Thompson</span>, +F.R.G.S. Four Volumes, imperial 4to, each 3<i>l.</i> 3<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>In my Indian Garden.</i> By <span class="smcap">Phil Robinson</span>, Author of "Under +the Punkah." With a Preface by <span class="smcap">Edwin Arnold</span>, M.A., C.S.I., &c. +Crown 8vo, limp cloth, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Involuntary Voyage (An).</i> Showing how a Frenchman who +abhorred the Sea was most unwillingly and by a series of accidents +driven round the World. Numerous Illustrations. Square crown +8vo, cloth extra, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; plainer binding, plain edges, 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Irish Bar.</i> Comprising Anecdotes, Bon-Mots, and Biographical +Sketches of the Bench and Bar of Ireland. By <span class="smcap">J. Roderick +O'Flanagan</span>, Barrister-at-Law. Crown 8vo, 12<i>s.</i> Second Edition.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Irish Land Question, and English Public Opinion (The).</i> With +a Supplement on Griffith's Valuation. By <span class="smcap">R. Barry O'Brien</span>, +Author of "The Parliamentary History of the Irish Land Question." +Fcap. 8vo, cloth, 2<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Irving (Washington).</i> Complete Library Edition of his Works +in 27 Vols., Copyright, Unabridged, and with the Author's Latest +Revisions, called the "Geoffrey Crayon" Edition, handsomely printed +in large square 8vo, on superfine laid paper, and each volume, of +about 500 pages, will be fully Illustrated. 12<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> per vol. <i>See also</i> +"Little Britain."</p> + +<p class="hanging p2"><i>Jack and Jill.</i> By Miss <span class="smcap">Alcott</span>. Small post 8vo, cloth, +gilt edges, 5<i>s.</i> With numerous Illustrations.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>John Holdsworth, Chief Mate.</i> By <span class="smcap">W. Clarke Russell</span>, +Author of "Wreck of the Grosvenor." Crown 8vo, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging p2"><i>Kingston (W. H. G.).</i> <i>See</i> "Snow-Shoes," "Child of +the Cavern," "Two Supercargoes," "With Axe and Rifle," +"Begum's Fortune," "Heir of Kilfinnan," "Dick Cheveley." Each +vol., with very numerous Illustrations, square crown 16mo, gilt edges, +7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; plainer binding, plain edges, 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging p2"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C16" id="Page_C16">16</a></span> +<i>Lady Silverdale's Sweetheart.</i> 6<i>s.</i> <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Black</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Lenten Meditations.</i> In Two Series, each complete in itself. +By the Rev. <span class="smcap">Claude Bosanquet</span>, Author of "Blossoms from the +King's Garden." 16mo, cloth, First Series, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; Second Series, 2<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Library of Religious Poetry.</i> A Collection of the Best Poems +of all Ages and Tongues. With Biographical and Literary Notes. +Edited by <span class="smcap">Philip Schaff</span>, D.D., LL.D., and <span class="smcap">Arthur Gilman</span>, +M.A. Royal 8vo, pp. 1036, cloth extra, gilt edges, 21<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Life and Letters of the Honourable Charles Sumner (The).</i> +2 vols., royal 8vo, cloth. Second Edition, 36<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Lindsay (W. S.) History of Merchant Shipping and Ancient +Commerce.</i> Over 150 Illustrations, Maps, and Charts. In 4 vols., +demy 8vo, cloth extra. Vols. 1 and 2, 21<i>s.</i>; vols. 3 and 4, 24<i>s.</i> each.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Little Britain</i>; together with <i>The Spectre Bridegroom</i>, and <i>A +Legend of Sleepy Hollow</i>. By <span class="smcap">Washington Irving</span>. An entirely +New <i>Edition de luxe</i>, specially suitable for Presentation. Illustrated +by 120 very fine Engravings on Wood, by Mr. <span class="smcap">J. D. Cooper</span>. +Designed by Mr. <span class="smcap">Charles O. Murray</span>. Square crown 8vo, cloth +extra, gilt edges, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Little King; or, the Taming of a Young Russian Count.</i> By +<span class="smcap">S. Blandy</span>. 64 Illustrations. Crown 8vo, gilt edges, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; plainer +binding, 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Little Mercy; or, For Better for Worse.</i> By <span class="smcap">Maude Jeanne +Franc</span>, Author of "Marian," "Vermont Vale," &c., &c. Small +post 8vo, cloth extra, 4<i>s.</i> Second Edition.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Lost Sir Massingberd.</i> New Edition, crown 8vo, boards, coloured +wrapper, 2<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Low's German Series</i>—</p> + +<p class="country"><b>1. The Illustrated German Primer.</b> Being the easiest introduction +to the study of German for all beginners. 1<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="country"><b>2. The Children's own German Book.</b> A Selection of Amusing +and Instructive Stories in Prose. Edited by Dr. <span class="smcap">A. L. Meissner</span>. +Small post 8vo, cloth, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="country"><b>3. The First German Reader, for Children from Ten to +Fourteen.</b> Edited by Dr. <span class="smcap">A. L. Meissner</span>. Small post 8vo, +cloth, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="country"><b>4. The Second German Reader.</b> Edited by Dr. <span class="smcap">A. L. Meissner</span>. +Small post 8vo, cloth, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="center s08"><i>Buchheim's Deutsche Prosa. Two Volumes, sold separately</i>:—</p> + +<p class="country"><b>5. Schiller's Prosa.</b> Containing Selections from the Prose Works +of Schiller, with Notes for English Students. By Dr. <span class="smcap">Buchheim</span>. +Small post 8vo, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="country"><b>6. Goethe's Prosa.</b> Selections from the Prose Works of Goethe, +with Notes for English Students. By Dr. <span class="smcap">Buchheim</span>. Small +post 8vo, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C17" id="Page_C17">17</a></span> +<i>Low's International Series of Toy Books.</i> 6<i>d.</i> each; or +Mounted on Linen, 1<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="country"> +<b>1. Little Fred and his Fiddle</b>, from Asbjörnsen's "Norwegian +Fairy Tales."</p> + +<p class="country"><b>2. The Lad and the North Wind</b>, ditto.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>3. The Pancake</b>, ditto.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>4. The Little Match Girl</b>, from H. C. Andersen's "Danish +Fairy Tales."</p> + +<p class="country"><b>5. The Emperor's New Clothes</b>, ditto.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>6. The Gallant Tin Soldier</b>, ditto.</p> + +<p class="review">The above in 1 vol., cloth extra, gilt edges, with the whole 36 +Coloured Illustrations, 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Low's Standard Library of Travel and Adventure.</i> Crown 8vo, +bound uniformly in cloth extra, price 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="country"><b>1. The Great Lone Land.</b> By Major <span class="smcap">W. F. Butler</span>, C.B.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>2. The Wild North Land.</b> By Major <span class="smcap">W. F. Butler</span>, C.B.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>3. How I found Livingstone.</b> By <span class="smcap">H. M. Stanley</span>.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>4. The Threshold of the Unknown Region.</b> By <span class="smcap">C. R. Markham</span>. +(4th Edition, with Additional Chapters, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>)</p> + +<p class="country"><b>5. A Whaling-Cruise to Baffin's Bay and the Gulf of Boothia.</b> +By <span class="smcap">A. H. Markham</span>.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>6. Campaigning on the Oxus.</b> By <span class="smcap">J. A. MacGahan</span>.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>7. Akim-foo: the History of a Failure.</b> By <span class="smcap">Major W. F. +Butler</span>, C.B.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>8. Ocean to Ocean.</b> By the Rev. <span class="smcap">George M. Grant</span>. With +Illustrations.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>9. Cruise of the Challenger.</b> By <span class="smcap">W. J. J. Spry</span>, R.N.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>10. Schweinfurth's Heart of Africa.</b> 2 vols., 15<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="country"><b>11. Through the Dark Continent.</b> By <span class="smcap">H. M. Stanley</span>, 1 vol., +12<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> +X/</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Low's Standard Novels.</i> Crown 8vo, 6<i>s.</i> each, cloth extra.</p> + +<p class="country"> +<b>My Lady Greensleeves.</b> By <span class="smcap">Helen Mathers</span>, Authoress of +"Comin' through the Rye," "Cherry Ripe," &c.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Three Feathers.</b> By <span class="smcap">William Black</span>.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>A Daughter of Heth.</b> 13th Edition. By <span class="smcap">W. Black</span>. With +Frontispiece by <span class="smcap">F. Walker</span>, A.R.A.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Kilmeny.</b> A Novel. By <span class="smcap">W. Black</span>.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>In Silk Attire.</b> By <span class="smcap">W. Black</span>.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Lady Silverdale's Sweetheart.</b> By <span class="smcap">W. Black</span>.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>History of a Crime</b>: The Story of the Coup d'Etat. By <span class="smcap">Victor +Hugo</span>.</p> + +<p class="country"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C18" id="Page_C18">18</a></span> +<b>Alice Lorraine.</b> By <span class="smcap">R. D. Blackmore</span>.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Lorna Doone.</b> By <span class="smcap">R. D. Blackmore</span>. 8th Edition.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Cradock Nowell.</b> By <span class="smcap">R. D. Blackmore</span>.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Clara Vaughan.</b> By <span class="smcap">R. D. Blackmore</span>.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Cripps the Carrier.</b> By <span class="smcap">R. D. Blackmore</span>.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Erema; or, My Father's Sin.</b> By <span class="smcap">R. D. Blackmore</span>.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Mary Anerley.</b> By <span class="smcap">R. D. Blackmore</span>.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Innocent.</b> By Mrs. <span class="smcap">Oliphant</span>. Eight Illustrations.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Work.</b> A Story of Experience. By <span class="smcap">Louisa M. Alcott</span>. Illustrations. +<i>See also</i> Rose Library.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>The Afghan Knife.</b> By <span class="smcap">R. A. Sterndale</span>, Author of "Seonee."</p> + +<p class="country"><b>A French Heiress in her own Chateau.</b> By the Author of +"One Only," "Constantia," &c. Six Illustrations.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Ninety-Three.</b> By <span class="smcap">Victor Hugo</span>. Numerous Illustrations.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>My Wife and I.</b> By Mrs. <span class="smcap">Beecher Stowe</span>.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Wreck of the Grosvenor.</b> By <span class="smcap">W. Clark Russell</span>.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>John Holdsworth</b> (Chief Mate). By <span class="smcap">W. Clark Russell</span>.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Elinor Dryden.</b> By Mrs. <span class="smcap">Macquoid</span>.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Diane.</b> By Mrs. <span class="smcap">Macquoid</span>.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Poganuc People, Their Loves and Lives.</b> By Mrs. <span class="smcap">Beecher +Stowe</span>.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>A Golden Sorrow.</b> By Mrs. <span class="smcap">Cashel Hoey</span>.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>A Story of the Dragonnades; or, Asylum Christi.</b> By the Rev. +<span class="smcap">E. Gilliat</span>, M.A.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Low's Handbook to the Charities of London.</i> Edited and +revised to date by <span class="smcap">C. Mackeson</span>, F.S.S., Editor of "A Guide to the +Churches of London and its Suburbs," &c. Paper, 1<i>s.</i>; cloth, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging p2"><i>MacGahan (J. A.) Campaigning on the Oxus, and the +Fall of Khiva.</i> With Map and numerous Illustrations, 4th Edition, +small post 8vo, cloth extra, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Macgregor (John) "Rob Roy" on the Baltic.</i> 3rd Edition, +small post 8vo, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; cloth, gilt edges, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>A Thousand Miles in the "Rob Roy" Canoe.</i> 11th +Edition, small post 8vo, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; cloth, gilt edges, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Description of the "Rob Roy" Canoe</i>, with Plans, +&c., 1<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>The Voyage Alone in the Yawl "Rob Roy."</i> New +Edition; thoroughly revised, with additions, small post 8vo, 5<i>s.</i>; +boards, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C19" id="Page_C19">19</a></span> +<i>Mackenzie (D.) The Flooding of the Sahara.</i> By <span class="smcap">Donald +Mackenzie</span>. 8vo, cloth extra, with Illustrations, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Macquoid (Mrs.) Elinor Dryden.</i> Crown 8vo, cloth, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Diane.</i> Crown 8vo, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Magazine.</i> <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Harper</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Markham (C. R.) The Threshold of the unknown Region.</i> +Crown 8vo, with Four Maps, 4th Edition. Cloth extra, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Maury (Commander) Physical Geography of the Sea, and its +Meteorology.</i> Being a Reconstruction and Enlargement of his former +Work, with Charts and Diagrams. New Edition, crown 8vo, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Memoirs of Count Miot de Melito.</i> 2 vols., demy 8vo, 36<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Memoirs of Madame de Rémusat, 1802-1808.</i> By her Grandson, +<span class="smcap">M. Paul de Rémusat</span>, Senator. Translated by Mrs. <span class="smcap">Cashel +Hoey</span> and Mr. <span class="smcap">John Lillie</span>. 4th Edition, cloth extra. This +work was written by Madame de Rémusat during the time she +was living on the most intimate terms with the Empress Josephine, +and is full of revelations respecting the private life of Bonaparte, and +of men and politics of the first years of the century. Revelations +which have already created a great sensation in Paris. 8vo, 2 vols., 32<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Menus (366, one for each day of the year).</i> Translated from the +French of <span class="smcap">Count Brisse</span>, by Mrs. <span class="smcap">Matthew Clarke</span>. Crown +8vo, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Men of Mark: a Gallery of Contemporary Portraits of the most +Eminent Men of the Day taken from Life</i>, especially for this publication, +price 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> monthly. Vols. I., II., III., IV., and V., handsomely +bound, cloth, gilt edges, 25<i>s.</i> each.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Mendelssohn Family (The).</i> Translated from the German of +<span class="smcap">E. Bock</span>. Demy 8vo, 16<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Michael Strogoff.</i> 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> and 5<i>s.</i> <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Verne</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Mitford (Miss).</i> <i>See</i> "Our Village."</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Military Maxims.</i> By <span class="smcap">Captain B. Terling</span>. Medium 16mo, +in roan case, with pencil for the pocket, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Mountain and Prairie: a Journey from Victoria to Winnipeg, +viâ Peace River Pass.</i> By the Rev. <span class="smcap">Daniel M. Gordon</span>, B.D., +Ottawa. Small post 8vo, with Maps and Illustrations, cloth extra, +8<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Music.</i> <i>See</i> "Great Musicians."</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>My Lady Greensleeves.</i> By <span class="smcap">Helen Mathers</span>, Authoress of +"Comin' through the Rye," "Cherry Ripe," &c. 1 vol. edition, +crown 8vo, cloth, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C20" id="Page_C20">20</a></span> +<i>Mysterious Island.</i> By <span class="smcap">Jules Verne</span>. 3 vols., imperial 16mo. +150 Illustrations, cloth gilt, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> each; elaborately bound, gilt +edges, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> each. Cheap Edition, with some of the Illustrations, +cloth, gilt, 2<i>s.</i>; paper, 1<i>s.</i> each.</p> + +<p class="hanging p2"><i>National Music of the World.</i> By the late <span class="smcap">Henry F. +Chorley</span>. Edited by <span class="smcap">H. G. Hewlett</span>. Crown 8vo, cloth, 8<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Naval Brigade in South Africa (The).</i> By <span class="smcap">Henry F. Norbury</span>, +C.B., R.N. Crown 8vo, cloth extra, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>New Child's Play (A).</i> Sixteen Drawings by E. V. B. Beautifully +printed in colours, 4to, cloth extra, 12<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>New Guinea (A Few Months in).</i> By <span class="smcap">Octavius C. Stone</span>, +F.R.G.S. With numerous Illustrations from the Author's own +Drawings. Crown 8vo, cloth, 12<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>What I did and what I saw.</i> By <span class="smcap">L. M. D'Albertis</span>, +Officer of the Order of the Crown of Italy, Honorary Member and +Gold Medallist of the I.R.G.S., C.M.Z.S., &c., &c. In 2 vols., +demy 8vo, cloth extra, with Maps, Coloured Plates, and numerous +very fine Woodcut Illustrations, 42<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>New Ireland.</i> By <span class="smcap">A. M. Sullivan</span>, M.P. for Louth. 2 vols., +demy 8vo, 30<i>s.</i> Cheaper Edition, 1 vol., crown 8vo, 8<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>New Novels.</i> Crown 8vo, cloth, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> per vol.:—</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Mary Marston.</b> By <span class="smcap">George MacDonald</span>. 3 vols. Third Edition.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Sarah de Beranger.</b> By <span class="smcap">Jean Ingelow</span>. 3 vols.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Don John.</b> By <span class="smcap">Jean Ingelow</span>. 3 vols.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Sunrise</b>: A Story of these Times. By <span class="smcap">William Black</span>. 3 vols.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>A Sailor's Sweetheart.</b> By <span class="smcap">W. Clark Russell</span>, Author of "The +Wreck of the Grosvenor," "John Holdsworth," &c. 3 vols.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Lisa Lena.</b> By <span class="smcap">Edward Jenkins</span>, Author of "Ginx's Baby." +2 vols.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>A Plot of the Present Day.</b> By <span class="smcap">Kate Hope</span>. 3 vols.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Black Abbey.</b> By <span class="smcap">M. Crommelin</span>, Author of "Queenie," &c. +3 vols.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Flower o' the Broom.</b> By the Author of "Rare Pale Margaret," +3 vols.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>The Grandidiers</b>: A Tale of Berlin. Translated from the German +by Captain <span class="smcap">Wm. Savile</span>. 3 vols.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Errant</b>: A Life Story of Latter-Day Chivalry. By <span class="smcap">Percy Greg</span>, +Author of "Across the Zodiac," &c. 3 vols.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Fancy Free.</b> By <span class="smcap">C. Gibbon</span>. 3 vols.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>The Stillwater Tragedy.</b> By <span class="smcap">J. B. Aldrich</span>.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Prince Fortune and Prince Fatal.</b> By Mrs. <span class="smcap">Carrington</span>, +Author of "My Cousin Maurice," &c. 3 vols.</p> + +<p class="country"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C21" id="Page_C21">21</a></span> +<b>An English Squire.</b> By <span class="smcap">C. B. Coleridge</span>, Author of "Lady +Betty," "Hanbury Wills," &c. 3 vols.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Christowell.</b> By <span class="smcap">R. D. Blackmore</span>. 3 vols.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Mr. Caroli.</b> By Miss <span class="smcap">Seguin</span>. 3 vols.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>David Broome, Artist.</b> By Miss <span class="smcap">O'Reilly</span>. 3 vols.</p> + +<p class="country"><b>Braes of Yarrow.</b> By <span class="smcap">Chas. Gibbon</span>. 3 vols.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Nice and Her Neighbours.</i> By the Rev. <span class="smcap">Canon Hole</span>, Author +of "A Book about Roses," "A Little Tour in Ireland," &c. Small +4to, with numerous choice Illustrations, 12<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Noble Words and Noble Deeds.</i> From the French of <span class="smcap">E. Muller</span>. +Containing many Full-page Illustrations by <span class="smcap">Philippoteaux</span>. Square +imperial 16mo, cloth extra, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; plainer binding, plain edges, 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>North American Review (The).</i> Monthly, price 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Nothing to Wear; and Two Millions.</i> By <span class="smcap">W. A. Butler</span>. +New Edition. Small post 8vo, in stiff coloured wrapper, 1<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Nursery Playmates (Prince of).</i> 217 Coloured pictures for +Children by eminent Artists. Folio, in coloured boards, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging p2"><i>Oberammergau Passion Play.</i> <i>See</i> "Art in the +Mountains."</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>O'Brien.</i> <i>See</i> "Parliamentary History" and "Irish Land +Question."</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Old-Fashioned Girl.</i> <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Alcott</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>On Horseback through Asia Minor.</i> By Capt. <span class="smcap">Fred Burnaby</span>, +Royal Horse Guards, Author of "A Ride to Khiva." 2 vols., +8vo, with three Maps and Portrait of Author, 6th Edition, 38<i>s.</i>; +Cheaper Edition, crown 8vo, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Our Little Ones in Heaven.</i> Edited by the Rev. <span class="smcap">H. Robbins</span>. +With Frontispiece after Sir <span class="smcap">Joshua Reynolds</span>. Fcap., cloth extra, +New Edition—the 3rd, with Illustrations, 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Our Village.</i> By <span class="smcap">Mary Russell Mitford</span>. Illustrated with +Frontispiece Steel Engraving, and 12 full-page and 157 smaller Cuts +of Figure Subjects and Scenes. Crown 4to, cloth, gilt edges, 21<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Our Woodland Trees.</i> By <span class="smcap">F. G. Heath</span>. Large post 8vo, +cloth, gilt edges, uniform with "Fern World" and "Fern Paradise," +by the same Author. 8 Coloured Plates (showing leaves of every +British Tree) and 20 Woodcuts, cloth, gilt edges, 12<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> Third +Edition.</p> + +<p class="hanging p2"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C22" id="Page_C22">22</a></span> +<i>Painters of All Schools.</i> By <span class="smcap">Louis Viardot</span>, and other +Writers. 500 pp., super-royal 8vo, 20 Full-page and 70 smaller +Engravings, cloth extra, 25<i>s.</i> A New Edition is issued in Half-crown +parts, with fifty additional portraits, cloth, gilt edges, 31<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Painting (A Short History of the British School of).</i> By +<span class="smcap">Geo. H. Shepherd</span>. Post 8vo, cloth, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Palliser (Mrs.) A History of Lace, from the Earliest Period.</i> +A New and Revised Edition, with additional cuts and text, upwards +of 100 Illustrations and coloured Designs. 1 vol., 8vo, 1<i>l.</i> 1<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Historic Devices, Badges, and War Cries.</i> 8vo, 1<i>l.</i> 1<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>The China Collector's Pocket Companion.</i> With upwards +of 1000 Illustrations of Marks and Monograms. 2nd Edition, +with Additions. Small post 8vo, limp cloth, 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Parliamentary History of the Irish Land Question (The).</i> From +1829 to 1869, and the Origin and Results of the Ulster Custom. By +<span class="smcap">R. Barry O'Brien</span>, Barrister-at-Law, Author of "The Irish Land +Question and English Public Opinion." 3rd Edition, corrected and +revised, with additional matter. Post 8vo, cloth extra, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="review">The Right Hon. W. E. GLADSTONE, M.P., in a Letter to the Author, says:— +"I thank you for kindly sending me your work, and I hope that the sad and discreditable +story which you have told so well in your narrative of the Irish Land +Question may be useful at a period when we have more than ever of reason to desire +that it should be thoroughly understood."</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Pathways of Palestine: a Descriptive Tour through the Holy +Land.</i> By the Rev. <span class="smcap">Canon Tristram</span>. Illustrated with 44 permanent +Photographs. (The Photographs are large, and most perfect +Specimens of the Art.) Published in 22 Monthly Parts, 4to, in +Wrapper, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> each.</p> + +<p class="review">"... The Photographs which illustrate these pages may justly claim, as works +of art, to be the most admirably executed views which have been produced....</p> + +<p class="review">"As the writer is on the point of making a fourth visit of exploration to the +country, any new discoveries which come under observation will be at once incorporated +in this work."</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Peasant Life in the West of England.</i> By <span class="smcap">Francis George +Heath</span>, Author of "Sylvan Spring," "The Fern World." Crown +8vo, about 350 pp., 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Petites Leçons de Conversation et de Grammaire: Oral and +Conversational Method; being Lessons introducing the most Useful +Topics of Conversation, upon an entirely new principle, &c.</i> By +<span class="smcap">F. Julien</span>, French Master at King Edward the Sixth's School, +Birmingham. Author of "The Student's French Examiner," "First +Steps in Conversational French Grammar," which see.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Phillips (L.) Dictionary of Biographical Reference.</i> 8vo, +1<i>l.</i> 11<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Photography (History and Handbook of).</i> <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Tissandier</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C23" id="Page_C23">23</a></span> +<i>Physical Treatise on Electricity and Magnetism.</i> By <span class="smcap">J. E. H. +Gordon, B.A.</span> With about 200 coloured, full-page, and other +Illustrations. Among the newer portions of the work may be +enumerated: All the more recent investigations on Striæ by Spottiswoode, +De la Rue, Moulton, &c., an account of Mr. Crooke's recent +researches; full descriptions and pictures of all the modern Magnetic +Survey Instruments now used at Kew Observatory; full accounts of +all the modern work on Specific Inductive Capacity, and of the more +recent determination of the ratio of Electric units (v). In respect to +the number and beauty of the Illustrations, the work is quite unique. +2 vols., 8vo, 36<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Pinto (Major Serpa).</i> <i>See</i> "How I Crossed Africa."</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Plutarch's Lives.</i> An Entirely New and Library Edition. +Edited by <span class="smcap">A. H. Clough</span>, Esq. 5 vols., 8vo, 2<i>l.</i> 10<i>s.</i>; half-morocco, +gilt top, 3<i>l.</i> Also in 1 vol., royal 8vo, 800 pp., cloth extra, 18<i>s.</i>; +half-bound, 21<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Poems of the Inner Life.</i> A New Edition, Revised, with many +additional Poems. Small post 8vo, cloth, 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Poganuc People: their Loves and Lives.</i> By Mrs. <span class="smcap">Beecher +Stowe</span>. Crown 8vo, cloth, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Polar Expeditions.</i> <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Koldewey</span>, <span class="smcap">Markham</span>, <span class="smcap">MacGahan</span>, +and <span class="smcap">Nares</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Poynter (Edward J., R.A.).</i> <i>See</i> "Illustrated Text-books."</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Practical (A) Handbook to the Principal Schools of England.</i> +By <span class="smcap">C. E. Pascoe</span>. New Edition, crown 8vo, cloth extra, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Prejevalsky (N. M.) From Kulja, across the Tian Shan to Lobnor.</i> +Translated by <span class="smcap">E. Delmar Morgan, F.R.G.S.</span> Demy 8vo, +with a Map. 16<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Primitive Folk Moots; or, Open-Air Assemblies in Britain.</i> +By <span class="smcap">George Laurence Gomme, F.S.A.</span>, Honorary Secretary to the +Folk-Lore Society, Author of "Index of Municipal Offices." 1 vol., +crown 8vo, cloth, 12<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="review">This work deals with an earlier phase of the history of English +Institutions than has yet been attempted.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Publisher's Circular (The), and General Record of British and +Foreign Literature.</i> Published on the 1st and 15th of every Month, 3<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Pyrenees (The).</i> By <span class="smcap">Henry Blackburn</span>. With 100 Illustrations +by <span class="smcap">Gustave Doré</span>, a New Map of Routes, and Information for +Travellers, corrected to 1881. With a description of Lourdes in 1880. +Crown 8vo, cloth extra, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging p2"><i>Rambaud +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C24" id="Page_C24">24</a></span> +(Alfred). History of Russia, from its Origin +to the Year 1877.</i> With Six Maps. Translated by Mrs. <span class="smcap">L. B. +Lan</span>. 2 vols., demy 8vo, cloth extra, 38<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Recollections of Writers.</i> By <span class="smcap">Charles</span> and <span class="smcap">Mary Cowden +Clarke</span>. Authors of "The Concordance to Shakespeare," &c.; +with Letters of <span class="smcap">Charles Lamb</span>, <span class="smcap">Leigh Hunt</span>, <span class="smcap">Douglas Jerrold</span>, +and <span class="smcap">Charles Dickens</span>; and a Preface by <span class="smcap">Mary Cowden Clarke</span>. +Crown 8vo, cloth, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Rémusat (Madame de).</i> <i>See</i> "Memoirs of."</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Robinson (Phil).</i> <i>See</i> "In my Indian Garden," "Under the +Punkah."</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Rochefoucauld's Reflections.</i> Bayard Series, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Rogers (S.) Pleasures of Memory.</i> <i>See</i> "Choice Editions of +Choice Books." 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Rose in Bloom.</i> <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Alcott</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>The Rose Library.</i> Popular Literature of all countries. Each +volume, 1<i>s.</i>; cloth, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> Many of the Volumes are Illustrated—</p> + +<p class="country">1. <b>Sea-Gull Rock.</b> By <span class="smcap">Jules Sandeau</span>. Illustrated.</p> + +<p class="country">2. <b>Little Women.</b> By <span class="smcap">Louisa M. Alcott</span>.</p> + +<p class="country">3. <b>Little Women Wedded.</b> Forming a Sequel to "Little Women."</p> + +<p class="country">4. <b>The House on Wheels.</b> By <span class="smcap">Madame de Stolz</span>. Illustrated.</p> + +<p class="country">5. <b>Little Men.</b> By <span class="smcap">Louisa M. Alcott</span>. Dble. vol., 2<i>s.</i>; cloth, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="country">6. <b>The Old-Fashioned Girl.</b> By <span class="smcap">Louisa M. Alcott</span>. Double +vol., 2<i>s.</i>; cloth, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="country">7. <b>The Mistress of the Manse.</b> By <span class="smcap">J. G. Holland</span>.</p> + +<p class="country">8. <b>Timothy Titcomb's Letters to Young People, Single and +Married.</b></p> + +<p class="country">9. <b>Undine, and the Two Captains.</b> By Baron <span class="smcap">De La Motte +Fouqué</span>. A New Translation by <span class="smcap">F. E. Bunnett</span>. Illustrated.</p> + +<p class="country">10. <b>Draxy Miller's Dowry, and the Elder's Wife.</b> By <span class="smcap">Saxe +Holm</span>.</p> + +<p class="country">11. <b>The Four Gold Pieces.</b> By Madame <span class="smcap">Gouraud</span>. Numerous +Illustrations.</p> + +<p class="country">12. <b>Work.</b> A Story of Experience. First Portion. By <span class="smcap">Louisa M. +Alcott</span>.</p> + +<p class="country">13. <b>Beginning Again.</b> Being a Continuation of "Work." By +<span class="smcap">Louisa M. Alcott</span>.</p> + +<p class="country">14. <b>Picciola; or, the Prison Flower.</b> By <span class="smcap">X. B. Saintine</span>. +Numerous Graphic Illustrations.</p> + +<p class="country"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C25" id="Page_C25">25</a></span> +15. <b>Robert's Holidays.</b> Illustrated.</p> + +<p class="country">16. <b>The Two Children of St. Domingo.</b> Numerous Illustrations.</p> + +<p class="country">17. <b>Aunt Jo's Scrap Bag.</b></p> + +<p class="country">18. <b>Stowe (Mrs. H. B.) The Pearl of Orr's Island.</b></p> + +<p class="country">19. —— <b>The Minister's Wooing.</b></p> + +<p class="country">20. —— <b>Betty's Bright Idea.</b></p> + +<p class="country">21. —— <b>The Ghost in the Mill.</b></p> + +<p class="country">22. —— <b>Captain Kidd's Money.</b></p> + +<p class="country">23. —— <b>We and our Neighbours.</b> Double vol., 2<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="country">24. —— <b>My Wife and I.</b> Double vol., 2<i>s.</i>; cloth, gilt, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="country">25. <b>Hans Brinker; or, the Silver Skates.</b></p> + +<p class="country">26. <b>Lowell's My Study Window.</b></p> + +<p class="country">27. <b>Holmes (O. W.) The Guardian Angel.</b></p> + +<p class="country">28. <b>Warner (C. D.) My Summer in a Garden.</b></p> + +<p class="country">29. <b>Hitherto.</b> By the Author of "The Gayworthys." 2 vols., 1<i>s.</i> each.</p> + +<p class="country">30. <b>Helen's Babies.</b> By their Latest Victim.</p> + +<p class="country">31. <b>The Barton Experiment.</b> By the Author of "Helen's Babies."</p> + +<p class="country">32. <b>Dred.</b> By Mrs. <span class="smcap">Beecher Stowe</span>. Double vol., 2<i>s.</i>; cloth, +gilt, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="country">33. <b>Warner (C. D.)</b> <b>In the Wilderness.</b></p> + +<p class="country">34. <b>Six to One.</b> A Seaside Story.</p> + +<p class="country">35. <b>Nothing to Wear, and Two Millions.</b></p> + +<p class="country">36. <b>Farm Ballads.</b> By <span class="smcap">Will Carleton</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Russell (W. Clarke).</i> <i>See</i> "A Sailor's Sweetheart," 3 vols., +31<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; "Wreck of the Grosvenor," 6<i>s.</i>; "John Holdsworth (Chief +Mate)," 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Russell (W. H., LL.D.) The Tour of the Prince of Wales in +India.</i> By <span class="smcap">W. H. Russell, LL.D.</span> Fully Illustrated by <span class="smcap">Sydney +P. Hall, M.A.</span> Super-royal 8vo, cloth extra, gilt edges, 52<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; +Large Paper Edition, 84<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging p2"><i>Sancta Christina: a Story of the First Century.</i> By +<span class="smcap">Eleanor E. Orlebar</span>. With a Preface by the Bishop of Winchester. +Small post 8vo, cloth extra, 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Seonee: Sporting in the Satpura Range of Central India, and in +the Valley of the Nerbudda.</i> By <span class="smcap">R. A. Sterndale, F.R.G.S.</span> 8vo, +with numerous Illustrations, 21<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Seven Years in South Africa: Travels, Researches, and Hunting +Adventures between the Diamond-Fields and the Zambesi (1872-1879).</i> +By Dr. <span class="smcap">Emil Holub</span>. With over 100 Original Illustrations +and 4 Maps. In 2 vols., demy 8vo, cloth extra, 42<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Serpent +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C26" id="Page_C26">26</a></span> +Charmer (The): a Tale of the Indian Mutiny.</i> By +<span class="smcap">Louis Rousselet</span>, Author of "India and its Native Princes." +Numerous Illustrations. Crown 8vo, cloth extra, gilt edges, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; +plainer binding, 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Shakespeare (The Boudoir).</i> Edited by <span class="smcap">Henry Cundell</span>. +Carefully bracketted for reading aloud; freed from all objectionable +matter, and altogether free from notes. Price 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> each volume, +cloth extra, gilt edges. Contents:—Vol. I., Cymbeline—Merchant of +Venice. Each play separately, paper cover, 1<i>s.</i> Vol. II., As You +Like It—King Lear—Much Ado about Nothing. Vol. III., Romeo +and Juliet—Twelfth Night—King John. The latter six plays separately, +paper cover, 9<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Shakespeare Key (The).</i> Forming a Companion to "The +Complete Concordance to Shakespeare." By <span class="smcap">Charles</span> and <span class="smcap">Mary +Cowden Clarke</span>. Demy 8vo, 800 pp., 21<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Shooting: its Appliances, Practice, and Purpose.</i> By <span class="smcap">James +Dalziel Dougall, F.S.A., F.Z.A.</span>, Author of "Scottish Field +Sports," &c. Crown 8vo, cloth extra, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="review">"The book is admirable in every way.... We wish it every success."—<i>Globe.</i></p> + +<p class="review">"A very complete treatise.... Likely to take high rank as an authority on +shooting."—<i>Daily News.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Silent Hour (The).</i> <i>See</i> "Gentle Life Series."</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Silver Pitchers.</i> <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Alcott</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Simon (Jules).</i> <i>See</i> "Government of M. Thiers."</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Six to One.</i> A Seaside Story. 16mo, boards, 1<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Smith (G.) Assyrian Explorations and Discoveries</i>. By the late +<span class="smcap">George Smith</span>. Illustrated by Photographs and Woodcuts. Demy +8vo, 6th Edition, 18<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>The Chaldean Account of Genesis.</i> By the late +<span class="smcap">G. Smith</span>, of the Department of Oriental Antiquities, British Museum. +With many Illustrations. Demy 8vo, cloth extra, 6th Edition, 16<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— An entirely New Edition, completely revised and rewritten +by the Rev. <span class="smcap">Professor Sayce</span>, Queen's College, Oxford. +Demy 8vo, 18<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Snow-Shoes and Canoes; or, the Adventures of a Fur-Hunter +in the Hudson's Bay Territory.</i> By <span class="smcap">W. H. G. Kingston</span>. 2nd +Edition. With numerous Illustrations. Square crown 8vo, cloth +extra, gilt edges, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; plainer binding, 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C27" id="Page_C27">27</a></span> +<i>Songs and Etchings in Shade and Sunshine.</i> By J. E. G. +Illustrated with 44 Etchings. Small 4to, cloth, gilt tops, 25<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>South African Campaign, 1879 (The).</i> Compiled by <span class="smcap">J. P. +Mackinnon</span> (formerly 72nd Highlanders), and <span class="smcap">S. H. Shadbolt</span>; +and dedicated, by permission, to Field-Marshal H.R.H. The Duke +of Cambridge. 4to, handsomely bound in cloth extra, 2<i>l.</i> 10<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>South Kensington Museum.</i> Published, with the sanction of +the Science and Art Department, in Monthly Parts, each containing +8 Plates, price 1<i>s.</i> Volume I., containing 12 numbers, handsomely +bound, 16<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Stanley (H. M.) How I Found Livingstone.</i> Crown 8vo, cloth +extra, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> ; large Paper Edition, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>"My Kalulu," Prince, King, and Slave.</i> A Story +from Central Africa. Crown 8vo, about 430 pp., with numerous graphic +Illustrations, after Original Designs by the Author. Cloth, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Coomassie and Magdala.</i> A Story of Two British +Campaigns in Africa. Demy 8vo, with Maps and Illustrations, 16<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Through the Dark Continent</i>, which see.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Story of a Mountain (The).</i> By <span class="smcap">E. Reclus</span>. Translated by +<span class="smcap">Bertha Ness</span>. 8vo, with Illustrations, cloth extra, gilt edges, +7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Story of a Soldiers Life (The); or, Peace, War, and Mutiny.</i> +By Lieut.-General <span class="smcap">John Alexander Ewart, C.B.</span>, Aide-de-Camp +to the Queen from 1859 to 1872. 2 vols., demy 8vo, with Illustrations.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Story of the Zulu Campaign (The).</i> By Major <span class="smcap">Ashe</span> (late +King's Dragoon Guards), and Captain the Hon. <span class="smcap">E. V. Wyatt-Edgell</span> +(late 17th Lancers, killed at Ulundi). Dedicated by special +permission to Her Imperial Highness the Empress Eugénie. 8vo, 16<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Story without an End.</i> From the German of Carové, by the late +Mrs. <span class="smcap">Sarah T. Austin</span>. Crown 4to, with 15 Exquisite Drawings +by E. V. B., printed in Colours in Fac-simile of the original Water +Colours; and numerous other Illustrations. New Edition, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— square 4to, with Illustrations by <span class="smcap">Harvey</span>. 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Stowe (Mrs. Beecher) Dred.</i> Cheap Edition, boards, 2<i>s.</i> Cloth, +gilt edges, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C28" id="Page_C28">28</a></span> +<i>Stowe (Mrs. Beecher) Footsteps of the Master.</i> With Illustrations +and red borders. Small post 8vo, cloth extra, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Geography</i>, with 60 Illustrations. Square cloth, 4<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Little Foxes.</i> Cheap Edition, 1<i>s.</i>; Library Edition, +4<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Betty's Bright Idea.</i> 1<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>My Wife and I; or, Harry Henderson's History.</i> +Small post 8vo, cloth extra, 6<i>s.</i><a name="FNanchor_C" id="FNanchor_C" href="#Footnote_C" class="fnanchor">[C]</a></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Minister's Wooing.</i> 5<i>s.</i>; Copyright Series, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; cl., 2<i>s.</i><a href="#Footnote_C" class="fnanchor">[C]</a></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Old Town Folk.</i> 6<i>s.</i>; Cheap Edition, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Old Town Fireside Stories.</i> Cloth extra, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Our Folks at Poganuc.</i> 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>We and our Neighbours.</i> 1 vol., small post 8vo, 6<i>s.</i> +Sequel to "My Wife and I."[See also Rose Library]</p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Pink and White Tyranny.</i> Small post 8vo, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> +Cheap Edition, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> and 2<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Queer Little People.</i> 1<i>s.</i>; cloth, 2<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Chimney Corner.</i> 1<i>s.</i>; cloth, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>The Pearl of Orr's Island.</i> Crown 8vo, 5<i>s.</i>[See also Rose Library]</p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Little Pussey Willow.</i> Fcap., 2<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Woman in Sacred History.</i> Illustrated with 15 +Chromo-lithographs and about 200 pages of Letterpress. Dem +4to, cloth extra, gilt edges, 25<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Student's French Examiner.</i> By <span class="smcap">F. Julien</span>, Author of "Petites +Leçons de Conversation et de Grammaire." Square crown 8vo, cloth, 2<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Studies in German Literature.</i> By <span class="smcap">Bayard Taylor</span>. Edited +by <span class="smcap">Marie Taylor</span>. With an Introduction by the Hon. <span class="smcap">George +H. Boker</span>. 8vo, cloth extra, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C29" id="Page_C29">29</a></span> +<i>Studies in the Theory of Descent.</i> By Dr. <span class="smcap">Aug. Weismann</span>, +Professor in the University of Freiburg. Translated and edited by +<span class="smcap">Raphael Meldola, F.C.S.</span>, Secretary of the Entomological Society +of London. Part I.—"On the Seasonal Dimorphism of Butterflies," +containing Original Communications by Mr. <span class="smcap">W. H. Edwards</span>, of +Coalburgh. With two Coloured Plates. Price of Part. I. (to Subscribers +for the whole work only), 8<i>s.</i>; Part II. (6 coloured plates), 16<i>s.</i>; +Part III., 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Sugar Beet (The).</i> Including a History of the Beet Sugar +Industry in Europe, Varieties of the Sugar Beet, Examination, Soils, +Tillage, Seeds and Sowing, Yield and Cost of Cultivation, Harvesting, +Transportation, Conservation, Feeding Qualities of the Beet and of +the Pulp, &c. By <span class="smcap">L. S. Ware</span>. Illustrated. 8vo, cloth extra, 21<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Sullivan (A. M., M.P.).</i> <i>See</i> "New Ireland."</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Sulphuric Acid (A Practical Treatise on the Manufacture of).</i> +By A. G. and <span class="smcap">C. G. Lock</span>, Consulting Chemical Engineers. With +77 Construction Plates, and other Illustrations. Royal 8vo, 2<i>l.</i> 12<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Sumner (Hon. Charles).</i> <i>See</i> Life and Letters.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Sunrise: A Story of These Times.</i> By <span class="smcap">William Black</span>, +Author of "A Daughter of Heth," &c. 3 vols., 31<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Surgeon's Handbook on the Treatment of Wounded in War.</i> By +Dr. <span class="smcap">Friedrich Esmarch</span>, Professor of Surgery in the University of +Kiel, and Surgeon-General to the Prussian Army. Translated by +<span class="smcap">H. H. Clutton, B.A.</span> Cantab., F.R.C.S. Numerous Coloured +Plates and Illustrations, 8vo, strongly bound in flexible leather, 1<i>l.</i> 8<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Sylvan Spring.</i> By <span class="smcap">Francis George Heath</span>. Illustrated by +12 Coloured Plates, drawn by <span class="smcap">F. E. Hulme, F.L.S.</span>, Artist and +Author of "Familiar Wild Flowers;" by 16 full-page, and more than +100 other Wood Engravings. Large post 8vo, cloth, gilt edges, 12<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging p2"><i>Tauchnitz's English Editions of German Authors.</i> +Each volume, cloth flexible, 2<i>s.</i>; or sewed, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> (Catalogues post +free on application.)</p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>(B.) German and English Dictionary.</i> Cloth, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; +roan, 2s,</p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>French and English.</i> Paper, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; cloth, 2<i>s.</i>; roan +2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C30" id="Page_C30">30</a></span> +<i>Tauchnitz (B.) Italian and English Dictionary.</i> Paper, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; +cloth, 2<i>s.</i>; roan, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Spanish and English.</i> Paper, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; cloth, 2<i>s.</i>; roan, +2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>New Testament.</i> Cloth, 2<i>s.</i>; gilt, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Taylor (Bayard).</i> <i>See</i> "Studies in German Literature."</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Through America; or, Nine Months in the United States.</i> By +<span class="smcap">W. G. Marshall, M.A.</span> With nearly 100 Woodcuts of Views of +Utah country and the famous Yosemite Valley; The Giant Trees, +New York, Niagara, San Francisco, &c.; containing a full account +of Mormon Life, as noted by the Author during his visits to Salt Lake +City in 1878 and 1879. In 1 vol., demy 8vo, 21<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Through the Dark Continent: The Sources of the Nile; Around +the Great Lakes, and down the Congo.</i> By <span class="smcap">Henry M. Stanley</span>. +2 vols., demy 8vo, containing 150 Full-page and other Illustrations, +2 Portraits of the Author, and 10 Maps, 42<i>s.</i> Seventh Thousand. +Cheaper Edition, crown 8vo, with some of the Illustrations and Maps. +1 vol., 12<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Tour of the Prince of Wales in India.</i> <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Russell</span>.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Trees and Ferns</i>. By <span class="smcap">F. G. Heath</span>. Crown 8vo, cloth, gilt +edges, with numerous Illustrations, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Two Friends.</i> By <span class="smcap">Lucien Biart</span>, Author of "Adventures of +a Young Naturalist," "My Rambles in the New World," &c. Small +post 8vo, numerous Illustrations, gilt edges, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; plainer binding, 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Two Supercargoes (The); or, Adventures in Savage Africa.</i> +By <span class="smcap">W. H. G. Kingston</span>. Numerous Full-page Illustrations. Square +imperial 16mo, cloth extra, gilt edges, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; plainer binding, 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Under the Punkah.</i> By <span class="smcap">Phil Robinson</span>, Author of "In +my Indian Garden." Crown 8vo, limp cloth, uniform with the +above, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Up and Down; or, Fifty Years' Experiences in Australia, +California, New Zealand, India, China, and the South Pacific.</i> +Being the Life History of Capt. <span class="smcap">W. J. Barry</span>. Written by Himself. +With several Illustrations. Crown 8vo, cloth extra, 8<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C31" id="Page_C31">31</a></span></p> + +<p class="center b12 p4"><b>BOOKS BY JULES VERNE.</b></p> + +<table class = "verne" summary = "Verne Books"> +<tr> +<td class="tdc br"><span class="smcap">Large Crown</span> 8vo</td> +<td class="br" colspan="4">Containing 350 to +600 pp. and from +50 to 100 full-page illustrations</td> +<td colspan="4">Containing the whole +of the text with some +illustrations.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc br bt">WORKS.</td> +<td class="tdc br bt" colspan = "2">In very handsome cloth binding, gilt edges.</td> +<td class="tdc br bt" colspan = "2">In plainer binding plain edges.</td> +<td class="tdc br bt" colspan = "2">In cloth binding, gilt edges, smaller type.</td> +<td class="tdc bt" colspan = "2">Coloured Boards</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="br bt"> </td> +<td class="bt"><i>s.</i></td> +<td class="br bt"><i>d.</i></td> +<td class="bt"><i>s.</i></td> +<td class="br bt"><i>d.</i></td> +<td class="bt"><i>s.</i></td> +<td class="br bt"><i>d.</i></td> +<td class="bt" colspan="2"> </td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="br ">Twenty Thousand Leagues under the Sea. Part I.</td> +<td class="" rowspan="2">10</td> +<td class="br " rowspan="2">6</td> +<td class="" rowspan="2">5</td> +<td class="br " rowspan="2">0</td> +<td class="" rowspan="2">3</td> +<td class="br " rowspan="2">6</td> +<td class="" rowspan="2" colspan="2">2 vols., 1<i>s.</i> each.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="br ">Twenty Thousand Leagues under the Sea. Part II.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="br ">Hector Servadac</td> +<td class="">10</td> +<td class="br ">6</td> +<td class="">5</td> +<td class="br ">0</td> +<td class=""> </td> +<td class="br "> </td> +<td class="" colspan="2"> </td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="br ">The Fur Country</td> +<td class="">10</td> +<td class="br ">6</td> +<td class="">5</td> +<td class="br ">0</td> +<td class="">3</td> +<td class="br ">6</td> +<td class="br " colspan="2">2 vols., 1<i>s.</i> each.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="br">From the Earth to the Moon and a Trip round it</td> +<td>10</td> +<td class="br" >6</td> +<td>5</td> +<td class="br" >0</td> +<td class="br" colspan="2">2 vols., 2<i>s.</i> each.</td> +<td colspan="2">2 vols., 1<i>s.</i> each.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="br">Michael Strogoff, the Courier of the Czar</td> +<td>10</td> +<td class="br" >6</td> +<td>5</td> +<td class="br" >0</td> +<td class="br" colspan="2"> </td> +<td class="br" colspan="2"> </td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="br">Dick Sands, the Boy Captain</td> +<td>10</td> +<td class="br" >6</td> +<td>5</td> +<td class="br" >0</td> +<td> </td> +<td class="br"> </td> +<td><i>s.</i></td> +<td><i>d.</i></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="br">Five Weeks in a Balloon</td> +<td>7</td> +<td class="br">6</td> +<td>3</td> +<td class="br">6</td> +<td>2</td> +<td class="br">0</td> +<td>1</td> +<td>0</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="br">Adventures of Three Englishmen and Three Russians</td> +<td>7</td> +<td class="br">6</td> +<td>3</td> +<td class="br">6</td> +<td>2</td> +<td class="br">0</td> +<td>1</td> +<td>0</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="br">Around the World in Eighty Days</td> +<td>7</td> +<td class="br">6</td> +<td>3</td> +<td class="br">6</td> +<td>2</td> +<td class="br">0</td> +<td>1</td> +<td>0</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="br">A Floating City</td> +<td>7</td> +<td class="br">6</td> +<td>3</td> +<td class="br">6</td> +<td>2</td> +<td class="br">0</td> +<td>1</td> +<td>0</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="br">The Blockade Runners</td> +<td>7</td> +<td class="br">6</td> +<td>3</td> +<td class="br">6</td> +<td>2</td> +<td class="br">0</td> +<td>1</td> +<td>0</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="br">Dr. Ox's Experiment</td> +<td>7</td> +<td class="br">6</td> +<td>3</td> +<td class="br">6</td> +<td>2</td> +<td class="br">0</td> +<td>1</td> +<td>0</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="br">Master Zacharius</td> +<td>7</td> +<td class="br">6</td> +<td>3</td> +<td class="br">6</td> +<td>2</td> +<td class="br">0</td> +<td>1</td> +<td>0</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="br">A Drama in the Air</td> +<td>7</td> +<td class="br">6</td> +<td>3</td> +<td class="br">6</td> +<td>1</td> +<td class="br">0</td> +<td>2</td> +<td>0</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="br">A Winter amid the Ice</td> +<td>7</td> +<td class="br">6</td> +<td>3</td> +<td class="br">6</td> +<td>2</td> +<td class="br">0</td> +<td>1</td> +<td>0</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="br">The Survivors of the "Chancellor"</td> +<td>7</td> +<td class="br">6</td> +<td>3</td> +<td class="br">6</td> +<td>2</td> +<td class="br">0</td> +<td colspan = "2">2 vols. 1<i>s.</i> each.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="br">Martin Paz</td> +<td>7</td> +<td class="br">6</td> +<td>2</td> +<td class="br">0</td> +<td>1</td> +<td class="br">0</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="br"><span class="smcap">The Mysterious Island</span>, 3 vols.:—</td> +<td>22</td> +<td class="br">6</td> +<td>10</td> +<td class="br">6</td> +<td>6</td> +<td class="br">0</td> +<td>3</td> +<td>0</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="br">Vol. I. Dropped from the Clouds</td> +<td>7</td> +<td class="br">6</td> +<td>3</td> +<td class="br">6</td> +<td>2</td> +<td class="br">0</td> +<td>1</td> +<td>0</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="br">Vol. II. Abandoned</td> +<td>7</td> +<td class="br">6</td> +<td>3</td> +<td class="br">6</td> +<td>2</td> +<td class="br">0</td> +<td>1</td> +<td class="br">0</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="br">Vol. III. Secret of the Island</td> +<td>7</td> +<td class="br">6</td> +<td>3</td> +<td class="br">6</td> +<td>2</td> +<td class="br">0</td> +<td>1</td> +<td class="br">0</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="br">The Child of the Cavern.</td> +<td>7</td> +<td class="br">6</td> +<td>3</td> +<td class="br">6</td> +<td class="br" colspan="2"> </td></tr> +<tr> +<td class="br">The Begum's Fortune</td> +<td>7</td> +<td class="br">6</td> +<td class="br" colspan="2"> </td> +<td class="br" colspan="2"> </td></tr> +<tr> +<td class="br">The Tribulations of a Chinaman</td> +<td>7</td> +<td class="br">6</td> +<td class="br" colspan="2"> </td> +<td class="br" colspan="2"> </td></tr> +<tr> +<td class="br"><span class="smcap">The Steam House</span>, 2 vols.:—</td> +<td class="br" colspan="2"> </td> +<td class="br" colspan="2"> </td> +<td class="br" colspan="2"> </td></tr> +<tr> +<td class="br">Vol. I. The Demon of Cawnpore</td> +<td>7</td> +<td class="br">6</td> +<td class="br" colspan="2"> </td> +<td class="br" colspan="2"> </td></tr> +<tr> +<td class="br">Vol. II. Tigers and Traitors</td> +<td>7</td> +<td class="br">6</td> +<td class="br" colspan="2"> </td> +<td class="br" colspan="2"> </td></tr> +</table> + +<p class="s08"><span class="smcap">Celebrated Travels and Travellers.</span> 3 vols. Demy 8vo, 600 pp., upwards of 100 +full-page illustrations, 12<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; gilt edges, 14<i>s.</i> each:—</p> + +<p class="s08">(1) <span class="smcap">The Exploration of the World.</span></p> + +<p class="s08">(2) <span class="smcap">The Great Navigators of the Eighteenth Century.</span></p> + +<p class="s08">(3) <span class="smcap">The Great Explorers of the Nineteenth Century.</span></p> + +<p class="hanging p2"><i>Waller +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_C32" id="Page_C32">32</a></span> +(Rev. C. H.) The Names on the Gates of Pearl, +and other Studies.</i> By the Rev. <span class="smcap">C. H. Waller, M.A.</span> Second +Edition. Crown 8vo, cloth extra, 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>A Grammar and Analytical Vocabulary of the Words in +the Greek Testament.</i> Compiled from Brüder's Concordance. For +the use of Divinity Students and Greek Testament Classes. By the +Rev. <span class="smcap">C. H. Waller, M.A.</span> Part I., The Grammar. Small post 8vo, +cloth, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> Part II. The Vocabulary, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Adoption and the Covenant. Some Thoughts on +Confirmation.</i> Super-royal 16mo, cloth limp, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Warner (C. D.) My Summer in a Garden.</i> Rose Library, 1<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Back-log Studies.</i> Boards, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; cloth, 2<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>In the Wilderness.</i> Rose Library, 1<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging">—— <i>Mummies and Moslems.</i> 8vo, cloth, 12<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Weaving.</i> <i>See</i> "History and Principles."</p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Wills, A Few Hints on Proving, without Professional Assistance.</i> +By a <span class="smcap">Probate Court Official</span>. 5th Edition, revised with Forms +of Wills, Residuary Accounts, &c. Fcap. 8vo, cloth limp, 1<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>With Axe and Rifle on the Western Prairies.</i> By <span class="smcap">W. H. G. +Kingston</span>. With numerous Illustrations, square crown 8vo, cloth +extra, gilt edges, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; plainer binding, 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p class="hanging"><i>Woolsey (C. D., LL.D.) 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H. Russell + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Hesperothen; Notes from the West, Vol. II (of 2) + A Record of a Ramble in the United States and Canada in + the Spring and Summer of 1881 + +Author: W. H. Russell + +Release Date: December 1, 2013 [EBook #44333] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HESPEROTHEN, VOLUME II *** + + + + +Produced by Melissa McDaniel and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive) + + + + + + + +Transcriber's Note: + + Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the original document have + been preserved. Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. + + Italic text is denoted by _underscores_. Bold text is denoted by + =equals signs=. + + On page 26 Count Fritz Thumb should possibly be Count FritzThumb. + + On page 120 Indianopolis should possibly be Indianapolis. + + On page 124, General How should possibly be General Howe. + + A triangle symbol in the text is represented as [**triangle] + + + + + HESPEROTHEN; + NOTES FROM THE WEST: + A RECORD OF A + RAMBLE IN THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA + IN THE SPRING AND SUMMER OF 1881. + + BY + W. H. RUSSELL, LL.D. + BARRISTER-AT-LAW. + + IN TWO VOLUMES. + + VOL. II. + + LONDON: + SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, & RIVINGTON, + CROWN BUILDINGS, 188 FLEET STREET. + 1882. + + [All rights reserved.] + + + + + LONDON: + PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, + STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING CROSS. + + + + +CONTENTS OF VOL. II. + + + CHAPTER I. + + ARIZONA. + + Deming--The Mirage--Ruined Cities--American + Explorers--Self-Tormentors--Animals and + Plants--Yuma--California--Los Angeles--Santa Monica--The + Pacific Page 1 + + + CHAPTER II. + + THE YOSEMITE VALLEY. + + A new Land of Goshen--A Jehu indeed--The Drive to Clarke's--A + Mountain Hostelry--Grizzlies--Fascination Point--The + Merced--Yosemite Fall--A Salute--Mountain Airs--The Mirror + Lake--"See that Rattle?"--A Philosophic Barber 19 + + + CHAPTER III. + + SAN FRANCISCO. + + The Palace Hotel--General McDowell--Palo-Alto--The + "Hoodlums"--The real Sir Roger--Exiles in the Far West--The + Chinese Population--For and Against them--The Sand Lot--Fast + Trotters--The Sea-Lions--The Diamond Palace--The Coloured + Population--"Eastward Ho!" 44 + + + CHAPTER IV. + + CALIFORNIA TO COLORADO. + + Los Angeles--Mud-geysers--"Billy the Kid"--General + Fremont--Manitou, the Garden of the Gods--Desperadoes--Bob + Ingersoll--Denver City--Leadville--Grand Canyon 73 + + + CHAPTER V. + + KANSAS TO ST. LOUIS. + + Liquor Law--Kansas Academy of Science--An Incident of + Travel--A Parting Symposium--Life in the Cars--St. Louis to + New York 107 + + + CHAPTER VI. + + NEW YORK--NEWPORT--DEPARTURE. + + Coney Island--Newport--Bass-fishing--Habit of + Spitting--Brighton Beach--Newport Coaching--Extra + Ecclesiam--Victories of American Horses--Newport + Avenues--Return to New York--Our Last Day in America 122 + + + CHAPTER VII. + + RETURN TO EUROPE. + + The "_City of Berlin_"--The Inman Line--The Service at Roche's + Point--Queenstown Discomforts--A sorry Welcome Home 140 + + + CHAPTER VIII. + + SOME GENERAL REFLECTIONS. + + Education--Free Schools--Influence of Money in + Politics--Corruption in Public Life--Crime on the Western + Borders--The Great Rebellion--Anniversaries--Great Courtesy to + Strangers--Manners and Customs 151 + + + CHAPTER IX. + + THE RED MAN AND HIS DESTINY. + + Captain Pratt--Carlisle Barracks--An Indian Bowman--The Indian + Question--The Pupils' Gossip--The "School News"--Indian + Visitors--The White Mother--The India Office--White and + Red--Quo Quousque?--Indian Title Deeds--The Reservations--The + Indian Agencies--Missionary Efforts--The Red Man and the Maori + 186 + + + + +HESPEROTHEN. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +ARIZONA. + + Deming--The Mirage--Ruined Cities--American + Explorers--Self-Tormentors--Animals and + Plants--Yuma--California--Los Angeles--Santa Monica--The + Pacific. + + +_May 30th._--At an hour as to which controversy might arise, owing to +the changes of time to which we have been subjected, the train, which +had pulled up but seldom during the night, stopped at Deming Junction, +where the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railroad "connects" with +the Southern Pacific, on which our cars were to be "hauled" to San +Francisco. Jefferson time and San Francisco time differ two hours, so +at one end of the station we scored 6 A.M., and at the other 8 A.M. +The sooner one gets away from Deming in any direction the better. A +year ago--as is usually the case hereabouts--there was not a trace of +a town on the dry ugly plain covered with prickly acacias and "Spanish +bayonets"; now Deming flourishes in gaming and drinking saloons, +express offices, and all the horrors of "enterprise" in the West. The +look-out revealed a few tents, wooden shanties, a station, at which +workmen were running up a frame-house, ground littered with preserved +provision tins, broken crockery, adobes and refuse of all sorts. At +the door of one hut, swarming with flies, swung half a carcase of beef; +two women were washing, pale-faced, but not uncheerful creatures, who +had not a good opinion of Deming and its population. "They carry out a +dead man a day, or used to," said one informant. The lady washerwomen +did not quite corroborate the figure; but, remarked the chattier +of the two, "there was a considerable shewtin' about last night!" +To the observation of one of the party that he was "going to have a +look about," the other lady made reply, "I guess if you dew it will +be 'hands up' for ten cents with you." On the platform was a United +States marshal, with a revolver stuck in his belt, but his duties were +considered to be punitive rather than preventive. Here Mr. Chase and +Mr. Hawley left us to return to Topeka. At the abschiednehmen Sir H. +Green was affected by a proof of interest in his welfare of a touching +character and very full of local colour; one of our friends beckoned +to him, took him aside, and pulling out a revolver ("It is hands up!" +thought Sir Henry), fully loaded, pressed it on his acceptance in the +kindest manner as a useful _compagnon de voyage_. As we were not to +stay at Deming, the self-sacrifice was not consummated. + +The regular train having come up, our special was tacked on to it, and +in an hour the locomotive puffed out of the depot, and sped westerly +on its way at the rate of twenty miles an hour, across a plain some +fifteen miles broad, bordered by jagged, irregular mountain ranges +north and south, as dry as a bone--so dry that water for the engine +has to be brought to the stations in tanks. A scanty growth of what +looked like camel grass, interspersed euphorbias and cactuses of great +height, was all that met the eye. We are approaching the great basin of +Arizona, and are warned that much dust and great heat must be expected, +and that the "scenery" does not improve in point of variety or verdure, +both of which are nearly at zero. A vigorous, well-directed campaign +against the flies in the saloon gave us comparative repose; then the +blinds being pulled down, and the thermometer reduced to 83 deg., +society settled itself to study, with results indicated presently by +a gentle _susurrus_ on the sofas. A sudden alarm, "Look at the deer!" +There sure enough was a herd of antelopes flying over the scrub towards +the horizon, which flickered about in the heat in a mirage of islands +and uplifted mountain ends--so vanished. + +After passing Lordsburgh, a desolate spot in the desert, there appeared +a beautiful mirage. The sand became a sheet of water, waveless and +mirror-like, and in it we saw reflected in trenchant outline the +mountain range beyond. "It must be water! it is water!" exclaimed an +unbelieving director. And, lo! as he spoke the "dust devils" rose and +danced along the face of the sea; in another minute the vision was +gone; the dazzling sand, white, blank and dull, mocked our senses. +This was near Stein's Pass, up which the train of nine carriages +was climbing--"the heaviest train that has gone over yet," said the +triumphant conductor. "But we thought we'd try it." Each waggon weighed +30 tons. The Pass is three miles long, and we were working at a grade +of 74 feet with a 19-inch cylinder engine. + +Between Pyramid Station and San Simon (_stant nomina umbrarum_--the +names of mere shadows of stations) the western border of New Mexico +is crossed, and we enter the great Territory of Arizona, which lies +between the Rocky Mountains and the Sierra Nevada. + +It is bounded by New Mexico on the east, by Mexico on the south, by +Utah and Nevada on the north and north-west, and by California in +continuation of the western boundary. It is as large as New York, +Pennsylvania, Maryland, New Jersey, and Delaware together. Whom it +belonged to first, so far as occupation constitutes possession, I +know not; but the Spaniards owned and neglected it for more than +three centuries before the Americans possessed it. In 1848 and 1853 +the regions now forming Arizona, New Mexico, Colorado, Utah, and +Nevada were ceded by the descendants of the Spanish conquerors to +the conquering Anglo-American. It would need weeks of assiduous +travel to explore the portion of Arizona where the most interesting +ruins in America, the cities of the Zoltecs or the Aztecs--for the +experts differ respecting their origin--are to be found. The weight +of authority and of recent investigation leads one to believe that the +Aztecs were not the builders of these ruined cities. Humboldt, indeed, +believed that they were; but, as Mr. Hinton remarks, in his capital +little handbook, which I recommend to prospectors, emigrants, tourists, +and travellers, "to suppose such an utter abandonment of settled +habitations, it will be necessary to suppose some strange impelling +reasons, either in climate or other causes, that must have amounted +to a catastrophe. An hypothesis which would leave a whole race able +to conquer an empire, and to preserve power enough to abandon without +destruction their old homes, implies conditions and forces without +a known historical parallel." The conclusion that many native cities +were flourishing when the Spaniards arrived in America may, perhaps, be +questioned. There is a distinctive character about them, differing from +that of the Mississippi mounds, the Central American pyramids, or the +ruined cities of Yucatan. + +The site of one of these cities was pointed out to us from the +train, and that was all we saw of them. But I heard so much about +the mysterious remains that I was induced to procure Mr. Bancroft's +remarkable essay on the native races of the Pacific Coast. Mr. Bancroft +believes that the Pueblos and other Indians, in a state of civilisation +which they subsequently lost, were the earliest inhabitants of these +countries and the builders of the cities; that the Apaches came down +upon them, and their work being then aided by the Spaniards, this +original agricultural people were swept off the face of the earth. +But where the Apaches came from the American ethnologists have not, +I believe, determined. For hundreds of miles these ruins cover the +country--stone houses, ancient watch-towers, and adobe buildings, +around which are quantities of stone implements, masses of crockery and +pottery. In some places there are structures of wood and stone, without +iron, the masonry consisting of thin plates of sandstone dressed on the +edges, and laid in coarse mortar nearly as hard as the stone itself. + +The explorers who have discovered the most interesting cities in +Arizona and elsewhere were officers of the United States army. They +have been the true pioneers of American civilisation in the West, and +it is most creditable to them that they have been able to furnish so +much scientific and antiquarian observation in the execution of their +arduous and often painful duty in Indian warfare. There is no cold +shade cast upon the labours of officers who desire to make a little +reputation for themselves by contributions to scientific publications, +and by papers on natural history and the like in periodical +publications or in the daily press. + +There is, as might be expected from its position, a very high +temperature in Arizona. This lasts from the middle of June to the first +of October. During the best part of summer exertion of any kind is +impossible. Metal objects cannot be handled without producing blisters; +rain scarcely ever falls; and, to keep up the drain of constant +evaporation, a man must drink a gallon or two gallons of water a day. +Mr. Ross Brown, speaking of the summer, declares that "everything +dries. Waggons dry; men dry; chickens dry. There is no juice left in +anything, living or dead, by the close of summer. Officers and soldiers +creak as they walk; chickens hatched at the season come out of the +shell ready cooked. Bacon is eaten with a spoon, and butter must stand +in the sun an hour before the flies become dry enough for use. The +Indians sit in the river with fresh mud on their heads, and, by dint of +constant dipping and sprinkling, manage to keep from roasting, though +they usually come out parboiled." But, although it is recorded that a +party encamped on a narrow canyon where the temperature was 120 degrees, +there was no sunstroke. And in that respect the climate differs from +that on the eastern coast, where, especially this very summer, a great +number of deaths were caused by _coup de soleil_. People, with the +thermometer marking 94 degrees, talk of its being agreeably cold. An +exceedingly interesting fact, if it be one, connected with residence in +this part of the world is the wholesome effect of complete abstinence. +Death from want of water was by no means infrequent in the old days +before so many wells were dug; but it only occurs when there is a good +deal of humidity in the air. Although alcoholic drinks and tobacco have +an injurious effect, there is a large consumption of both at all the +stations and at the mines. + +As in the Orange River Free State, where probably the conditions of +temperature are not very dissimilar, pulmonary complaints are cured, so +a residence in Arizona, it is said, stops consumption; and there are +authentic statements that people who arrived in a rapid decline have +experienced almost immediate relief of the principal symptoms, and have +been finally cured. Governor Safford, in an official letter, states +that his lungs were a good deal diseased, and that he was suffering +with a severe cough when he reached Arizona, and that in six months his +cough left him. He is satisfied the warm, dry atmosphere acted like a +healing balm to diseased lungs, and that, the pores being kept open, +the impurities which attack weak organs escape through the skin. Dr. +Loryea, of San Francisco, and Dr. Sawyer aver that Arizona is nature's +Turkish bath, and that Yuma, that evil-looking place, contains the +fountains of health. + +Of such vast regions a small acquaintance acquired by passing rapidly +twice over a line of railway does not entitle one to speak; but, if +what we read and heard of Arizona be true, there is within its limits +enormous mineral and agricultural wealth. There are carboniferous +basins of great extent and richness. The mountains teem with ore. +Silver and gold, copper pyrites, zinc, and lead are to be found over +a great range, the extent of which is as yet imperfectly known. There +are sulphates of nearly all the metals; metallic oxides, chlorides, +carbonates, nitrates; agates, amethysts, garnets, and other precious +stones. People there are who believe that the diamond, the emerald, and +the ruby will turn up in due time. In fact, if one were to be guided +by the accounts in the papers or the guide-books, he would think that +a sure way of making an immediate fortune would be to settle down on +any hillside in this favourite land. Nevertheless, what I saw out of my +window gave me reason to suppose that there was poverty in Arizona as +well as in the old country. Nor did the buildings which I saw by the +way at the sparse stations and infrequent towns give an idea that the +in-dwellers were well-to-do in the world. The adobe, or burnt brick, +which is a common material in lieu of better, has always a ruinous +appearance. The houses built of it yesterday seem tumbling to pieces +from the influences of old age. + +We take no note of time save by its relation to constant motion, and +to the "programme"--a Procrustean bed on which we have voluntarily +placed our tortured limbs. Sometimes in the hours of the night, which +could not be called still because of the incessant pealing, rattling, +and thundering of the train, I thought of the wonderful ways of man +with himself in such affairs as we were now engaged in. There is a play +of Terence which was a trouble to me in my youth, so long ago that I +remember very little more of it than the dismal and elongated name; +but Mr. "Heautontimorumenos" never needlessly bound himself up in a +programme and delivered his life over to a time-table! It is likely +enough, seeing what sort of man he was, that he would have adopted +that course had he lived in these days. I admit that programmes are +necessary when your movements regulate, or have to be regulated by, +those of other people; and that was the case in some measure with +us, but the solicitude it occasioned the worthy and valued friends, +whose brows I perceived becoming more puckered, and whose faces and +spirits were heavy with cares connected with the programme, to come up +to time, was beyond belief, and I vowed if ever I had my own way with +the ordering of a party I would have no programme at all. And plot and +calculate as you will, a gale of wind, or a heated axle, or a broken +bridge, or a flood, upsets everything, and your schemes gang aglee +utterly! It was admirable to see how we were working out the destiny +we had made manifest for ourselves in advance so long ago, but the task +was not easy. What curious sounds, by the way, our train made at night! +One could now and then compose words to the tune of the wheels, and +the regular rhythm forced one at times to hum the words of a song, of +which the train seemed to hammer out the music. It seemed so strange to +be turning into bed night after night, and waking up to pass the same +life day after day, like a log of wood carried on by an interminable, +irresistible torrent. + +Provided with books and newspapers, and friends to converse with, as +well as with sights to see, we had, however, no reason to complain +that time hung heavy on our hands as the train sped on. The books +were very utilitarian, it is true--Reports of Chambers of Commerce, +statistics and papers connected with railway and commercial enterprise +and the like. But our directors took to that literature with avidity, +and aided by maps and tables, copiously furnished to them, seemed +bent on passing with honours in a competitive examination anent the +American railway system. There were always, close at hand in the cars, +competent authorities to answer questions, or able champions to engage +in controversy, and as I heard all the subtle contentions, which I did +not understand, concerning signalling and baggage checking, gauges and +engines, curves and gradients, freights and fares, I was set to think +what the field had been in which all the ingenuity and talent displayed +in dealing with such topics were exercised in pre-railway days. These +discussions were mostly connected with the consideration of profits +and percentages, and that was a neutral ground on which the combatants +manoeuvred their facts and figures as in a natural "_schauplatz_". +There were times when such investigations ran down like a clock, +and no one wound them up again for a few hours, and then my friends +digested the remains they found on the field of battle and strengthened +themselves for friendly jousting. + +Not very long ago there would have been exceedingly good sporting in +many parts of Arizona. Grizzly bears, common and black bears; pumas, +mountain sheep, jaguars, ocelots, opossums, panthers, wolves, and +lynxes are largely distributed over the hill ranges. There are also +hares and rabbits and many smaller animals. Wild turkeys have much +diminished of late years; but there is a variety of birds, some of +them excellent for the spit. The chase, however, is attended with some +danger, unless one is very well booted and looks out where he treads, +as rattle-snakes abound, and are of exceeding virulence, the black +species being especially deadly. There are horned toads, but these are +harmless. + +For the botanist Arizona is an almost inexhaustible field of +delight. Any one who likes to read of vegetable wonders, or of an +extraordinarily varied flora, cannot do better than get Dr. Loryea's +work, or read 'New Mexico,' by Elias Brevoort. The growth which struck +us most was that of the extraordinary cactus called the candelabra +or Sahuaro. It is worth while going so far as the railway will take +one to see these plants sticking up on the sides of a rock without a +trace of verdure or moisture, rising to the height of 40 or 50 feet, +and throwing out enormous arms at the most grotesque angles, each +varying from the other in shape, the number of its arms, and in the +manner in which they are disposed. This giant cactus is covered with +prickles, and is of a light green colour. It is said that in the old +days the Apache Indians not unfrequently made use of them as handy +means of torture, and nailed their victims to a cactus previous to +setting fire to it. The body of the plant is resinous, and it can +be easily converted into a bonfire. Here and there we saw some with +traces of pale yellow flowers. When these are gone there is a fruit, +which makes an excellent preserve, or can be boiled into sugar. Then +there are prickly pears in great quantities; and there is a "negro-head +cactus," with a round top covered with sharp spines, which furnished +the Mexicans with fish-hooks. "There is a soul of beauty in things +evil." If a thirsty traveller coming upon one of these plants kindles +a fire around it, the juices of its body are gradually concentrated +into a central cavity, where they only wait incision to be liberated +in the form of a pleasant drink, half a gallon or more in quantity. +The appliances for getting a drink out of most of these roots are +described at length in various books of travel; but however useful they +may have been at the time, the activity of the Atchison, Topeka and +Santa Fe Railway will in all probability exempt travellers in future +from any necessity to avail themselves of these ingenious devices. +Trees flourish in spite of the heat and want of water. As various as +the trees are the human inhabitants, and one of the greatest marvels +connected with them, perhaps, is the extraordinary variety of dialects +amongst people of the same race, who lived in the same country long +before the white man came to trouble them. They are decreasing, of +course, in numbers; but in some of the reservations they seem to +have arrested downward progress, and to have taken to some form of +agricultural labour. At present Arizona is the happy hunting-ground +of the unfortunate red man. There is, I am assured, no disposition on +the part of the whites to intrude upon the reservations of the various +tribes. I did not hear of any one who had come in from the East to +settle with the view of making his fortune by farming; but miners have +flooded the canyons, and climbed the mountain-tops; and now they have +settled down into a steady way of life without any big "booms," as the +Americans say, but with prospects of pretty certain returns for their +labour. + +All night we travelled on, and when the morning came, we were still +traversing the desert, still passing through one of the most sterile +wastes on the face of the earth, where, however, by strange contrasts +of nature--or is it strange?--there were in the mountains and in the +ravines rich ores to tempt the cupidity and enterprize of man. We are +continually reminded of similar wastes in India and in Africa; but no +one, as far as I know, has yet discovered any mineral wealth in the +north-western deserts of our Indian Empire. And although Captain Burton +and others have fancied they have come across an El Dorado in Southern +Egypt, and Ibrahim Pasha had such faith in the existence of gold in +those regions that he led forth an expedition to perish there, there +is no such fortune in store for the adventurous miner as awaits him in +Arizona, Colorado, and California. + +_June 1st._--Everyone who has entered Arizona, or left it--and let us +hope he went back all the better for his visit--will recollect Yuma for +ever. + +Yuma is on the Colorado, which divides California from Arizona. +The muddy waters of the river rush with immense velocity past the +buttresses of the fine bridge, with a draw for steamers, that spans +it. The town consists apparently of adobe houses, and these not very +regularly built. I could not visit the main street for lack of time, +but the offshoots within eyeshot of us were not tempting. All we +could see from the railway windows were flat-roofed adobe houses, some +squalid Indians nearly naked, the buildings, with the Stars and Stripes +over them, of the United States post on the left bank, and a few wooden +sheds. It is said to be one of the hottest places in the world, and +certainly looked dry and dusty. They say that a soldier who died there +and went to an unmentionable place, returned in the spirit to beg for +a blanket, as he felt so cold! + +More happily constituted travellers than most of us have seen something +pleasing in the aspect of the country roundabout, and have been moved +to much admiration by the various tints of the hills in the distance, +and by the rocks which constitute the near limits of the valley through +which the river passes. In the old days, when the stage-coaches offered +the only means of travelling through the district, there might have +been a good deal to see along the road; but the rail generally avoids +sights, and where nature is at its best, the engineer strikes deep down +and burrows if he can. The colours of the hills are bright and varied; +the lava rocks are of many shades, and the sun, piercing through strata +of pure air, illuminates them with great vividness and force; but after +a time the eye tires of the uniform hues of the landscape. For a few +miles the rail runs close to the river, then plunges into the most +remorseless, cruel waste of sand and rock, spread out up to the foot of +the rugged hills of the Barnardino Range, I ever beheld--an abomination +of desolation compared with which the Libyan Desert or the plains of +Scinde were the Garden of the Hesperides. I cannot describe, nor could +I at any time hope to succeed in giving an adequate conception of this +dreadful wilderness. For 107 miles west there is not a drop of water to +be found; the stations are dependent on the railway for their supplies. +But Nature, as if to take away the reproach of permitting such a vast +blotch on her fair face, kindly threw in Fata Morgana. We saw with +delight widespread lakes with fairy islands in the midst; placid seas +washing the base of the distant hills. This baked and dreary expanse +extends nearly to San Gorgonio. We were spared the sandstorms which are +so dreadful, nor did we experience inconvenience from the dust. The +traveller, who has begun to despair of ever seeing anything greener +than giant cacti and the adamantine vegetation which dispenses with +water, is agreeably surprised as he approaches Los Angeles. If he +be as fortunate as we were in having such friends as Colonel Baker +and his wife to take charge of him, he will be amply repaid for far +greater discomforts than any he experienced in the Colorado desert. +From Los Angeles there is a railway to Santa Monica, seventeen miles +distant, which belongs to Colonel Baker; and I would advise every one +who can, either to spare or make the time for a diversion to that +most delightful spot. Judge of the pleasure we felt when, after a +picturesque run through orange groves, vineyards, and fields of corn +and barley, we gazed on the waters of the Pacific--"[Greek: thalatta! +thalatta!]" What a glorious scene! the broad bay lighted by the rays +of the declining sun; the blue waves rolling on in solemn march, +and breaking in long lines of foam on the dazzling sand, and nearer +still the gardens and trees of the Pacific Biarritz which was about +to welcome us! Our palace-car and its attendant carriages shot into a +siding close to the beach. In a few minutes "every man Jack" was off to +the bathing establishment to conform to the regulations ere we plunged +into the sea. It is an orthodox bathing-place of the highest order. The +Baths are extensive, and provided with every convenience and comfort +for ladies and invalids; hot and cold, salt water and fresh, for those +who do not like to trust themselves to the sea. A rope extended seaward +to hold on by was needful, for the surf was heavy and the undertow +strong. The water was delicious. Generally there is less sea on, and it +is never too hot or too cold for bathing. Next morning we had another +bath in a still rougher Pacific. The Duke and some of the party were +driven about the country by Colonel and Mrs. Baker, and at 3 P.M., to +our sorrow, we left the most lovable little spot of all we have seen +on this continent. Good fortune be in store for Santa Monica! At Los +Angeles, where carriages were waiting, we drove through the streets and +suburbs, which enabled us to appreciate the reasons which induced the +Spanish founders to give the city its name. In the evening we continued +our journey, passing in the dark over the feat of engineering called +the Loop. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +THE YOSEMITE VALLEY. + + A new Land of Goshen--A Jehu indeed--The Drive to Clarke's--A + Mountain Hostelry--Grizzlies--Fascination Point--The + Merced--Yosemite Fall--A Salute--Mountain Airs--The Mirror + Lake--"See that Rattle?"--A Philosophic Barber. + + +_June 2nd._--It is astonishing how soon one gets accustomed to the +rattle and rumble of the rail, and sleeps all the night through after +a time, waking up only when a train stops at a station, just as a +miller is roused by the cessation of the clock of the mill-wheel. We +keep good hours, and so at 4.30 this morning I was looking out of the +window at a sea of blue mountain ridges upon the west, which looked +like the waves of the ocean, so varied in the serrated edges was the +line of stony waves which seemed as if they were about to sweep down +over the great stretch of prairie. We were passing through a new land +of Goshen, at least that was the name which I detected on the station +board, indicating a junction with another line, and early as was the +hour the door of the hospitable restaurant was open, and gentlemen +in front were to be seen drawing their hands across their lips as if +they had been taking a refresher in the early morning. Close at hand +the country was perfectly flat, covered with glorious crops nearly +ripe for the sickle, and indeed cut and stacked in some places. Water +appeared abundant; a river flowing west was visible at intervals, its +course marked by a line of trees. Large black cranes stalked about in +the meadow-like fields, and hares sat up on end to take a look at the +train. The paucity of human beings, except at the rare stations, was +remarkable; only when I say "rare," perhaps I am scarcely justified, +as there were little wooden huts at intervals perhaps of ten or twelve +miles, where a saloon announced itself, and a possible ticket-office. + +On the east of the plain through which the line runs, the peaks of +the Sierra Nevada were visible, but the journey was rather monotonous +all the same, and we were glad when our train halted at Madera, about +ninety miles from Goshen, where we were to get out and start on our +expedition to the Yosemite Valley. Especial arrangements had been +made for our conveyance, but I almost doubt now whether it would not +have been better for us to have taken the ordinary carriage which +leaves Madera every day, except Monday, for the Yosemite Valley, at +7.45, arriving at Clarke's or Bruce's in somewhat less than twelve +hours, so as to bring daylight with it to the halting-place; a very +desirable thing, as we soon found out. It was 8 o'clock before our +party started from Madera, in two Kendal carriages with four horses +each. In one was the Duke, Lady Green, Mr. Stephen, and myself, with +Crockett on the box; in another were Sir Henry Green, Mr. Wright, Major +Anderson, and Mr. Jerome. Our driver was a man with the impossible +name of MacLenathan, a resolute, dry, taciturn man, with a good face, +seamed with the exposure to sun and rain of many years on the box. +But he told us he had deserted it lately, and had taken to the work +of livery stable keeper, only coming out on this occasion as driver to +do honour to the Duke. As it turned out, it was well his right and his +left hand had not lost their cunning. The driver of the other carriage +was a noted character, rejoicing in the name of "Buffalo Bill," and +later on we had reason to feel very thankful to him also for the +possession of great pluck and nerve. For some ten or twelve miles the +route, which consists of mere wheel tracks over the prairie, runs over +moderately undulating land. On the right there is a shoot or _flume_ +for carrying down timber from the upper part of the mountain ridge +fifty miles away. The dust was troublesome, and the rapid motion of +the four horses scarcely saved us from the roasting sun. The scenery +was not interesting; indeed, the great object of attraction was the +little Californian quail with his pretty crest, running across through +the grass or jumping up upon a stump to have a look at the travellers. +Stage stables were far apart, but the speed was fair, and it was +astonishing to see the excellent condition in which the horses were +at the end of their long canter, and what capital steeds were taken +out of the stalls, in which they were feeding on barley-straw, to +be put into the traces. I think the average length of the stages was +about twelve miles. We lost about an hour at a little mining village +where we halted for dinner, a place called Coarse Gold, as well as +I recollect, consisting of the usual buildings, a few shanties, the +store, the hotel, far better than might have been expected, and a sort +of wigwam or one-storeyed house, in front of which were assembled a +number of "Digger Indians," degraded specimens of a degraded tribe. +They sat looking at the new arrivals in the most apathetic manner, +just as they might regard so many flies. The men were dressed in a +compromise of old Indian attire, leather leggings and deerskin jackets, +with European clothing, caps, bad hats and trousers, and old boots, +the women swathed ungracefully in what seemed to be pieces of blanket, +their legs encased in folds of dirty cotton. One of these Diggers was +very slightly dressed, and as it is intensely cold in the winter, we +asked him whether he did not feel the effect of the frost and snow. +He knew a little English, and made the most of it. "When your body is +covered you do not feel the cold," he said; "But your face is always +uncovered, and yet you do not feel the cold there. An Indian's body is +all face." And that was all the explanation he would vouchsafe to us. +Somehow or another, what with delays at the stations, possibly caused +by our being out of the regular running, and being an interpolation on +the ordinary course of travel, and possibly owing to our reduced speed, +for the carriages with four horses did not, it seems, go as fast as +the public conveyance with six, it was getting dark as we approached +the line of wooded hills, in a valley in which, many miles away, lay +our halting-place for the night. The result of our delay in starting, +concerning which the driver had been severe from time to time, was +startlingly manifest as the coaches mounted the steep ascents of one of +the most tortuous roads in the world. The spurs of the hills come down +very sharply to the valley, and the road is carried round by a series +of very severe gradients following the contour of the mountain-chain, +so that at one time there is a deep gorge on your left, and then, as +the road leaves that spur with the valley on that side and crosses to +another spur, there is a great descent on the right, so that you are +continually passing along by a series of precipices, to which, in our +case, the fast gathering gloom imparted additional horror. Through the +sighing of the wind in the trees aloft came the roar of the torrents +down below. The drivers went along at a good steady canter, and from +time to time, as we came round a sharp curve, I dare say the thought +was in every one's mind, what would happen if one of the leaders +fell, or if the driver slipped his hand in gathering up the reins to +go round the corner. The scenery became more wild and formidable, so +to speak, at every fresh turn. The colossal trees, which challenged +admiration in the daytime, closed up in greater volume, darkening the +narrow road completely, so that in an hour after entering upon the +mountain-range it became as black as pitch. The lamps of Buffalo Bill +in the leading carriage were some guide to our driver. He had none, +and it was with anxiety, renewed every ten minutes or so, that we saw +the lights in front describe a graceful curve, which showed that they +were passing by one of the dips or cuts of the road. It needed skill +and judgment for MacLenathan to conduct the carriage, because if he +drove too close to that in front of us, the clouds of dust obscured +the view, and if he dropped too far behind he lost the benefit of the +lights. By enormous trunks of trees, by piles of timber, through deep +cuttings in the rock, plashing over watercourses, descending swiftly +into river-beds, and splashing through the fords over boulders, then +climbing up steep hillsides, on and on, it seemed as though the night +would never come to an end, and we inwardly, and audibly too, expressed +our regret that we had not started a little earlier; but still there +was an almost pleasurable excitement in holding on as we swept round +one of these terrible gorges, and tried to look down into the gulf +beneath. That last stage seemed interminable, but towards 9 o'clock at +night the driver of the coach in front announced that we were getting +"near at last"; and lucky it was, for his lights were giving out. "It +is just as well that they did not," said our driver, "because it would +be bad for you." "Why?" "Well," he said, "you would just have to get +out and walk! I would not undertake to drive any one in the dark along +such a road as this." Presently we heard the noise of rushing water, +and gained the bank of a stream flowing with swiftness over a shingle +bed. This we crossed, and in half an hour more, through the dark belt +of trees in front, lights were discerned, and, crossing another stream +and a bridge, our wearied horses were pulled up in front of the hotel, +a large wooden building, on the steps of which were the landlord and +his staff, and most of the inmates turned out to greet and inspect +the travellers who had been long expected. "It is a bad country to go +driving about in the dark," said Mr. Bruce, the landlord, a sentiment +in which we thoroughly agreed. There was a supper in the common +room, to which, albeit the fare was primitive enough, we did ample +justice. Travellers have complained of the charges along the road, but, +considering the distance which all articles have to be carried to the +Valley, the heavy duties, and the shortness of the season, I do not +think that any one with experience of Swiss inns would complain much; +and if the traveller desires to drink claret, he must not be astonished +if he pays eight or nine shillings a bottle for it. The ordinary fare, +at hotel prices, is quite good enough for hungry people, and eggs, +milk, and bread are abundant, and not dear. The bedrooms, sufficiently +simple in all their appointments, are good enough to be welcome to +tired people, for there is a fair bed to lie upon, and the sheets, as +far as our experience went, were clean and fresh. Nor were the insect +horrors, of which we may have some knowledge in parts of Europe, to be +dreaded, not even mosquitoes at this time of year. + +Soon after dawn a thunderstorm broke over the valley, hail and torrents +of rain, and the landlord congratulated us upon the cooling effect +it would have on the air, and on the absence of dust, which is rather +troublesome at times. It was necessary to make an early start in the +morning, for it is a long journey to the Yosemite. For some years past +the Valley has become a kind of American Chamouni, and if Americans +swarm over Europe in search of the sublime and beautiful, they cannot +be accused of neglecting altogether their own country. The first thing +I saw, on walking out on the verandah of the hotel, was the stage-coach +and six horses, with eight ladies and nine gentlemen, loading up for +the Valley. They had arrived late the night before, a little in advance +of us, and yet the ladies, bravely attired for the road, were all in +their place in the _char a bancs_ long before 7. Travellers frequently +stay at Bruce's, and our host promises good sport to any one who will +make it his headquarters; but I cannot speak with any confidence on +that point myself; still I should think it a very pleasant quarter for +a man who had nothing else to do, and who had an aptitude for climbing, +to go about looking out big game. We heard talk of pheasants, but +saw none: the bird which is called by that name not being entitled +to it, according to ornithologists. In front of the hotel was laid +out the skin of a cinnamon bear, which had been shot by an Austrian +gentleman--"Count Fritz Thumb," the landlord called him--a few days +previously, and which was to be sent after him as a trophy of his +skill. "But," says Boniface, "it was not he shot him at all; it was 'is +old Injun hunter." Grizzlies, he said, were rare, but they were to be +found if you went up high enough, and as he spoke he pointed up to the +mountains towering away in the distance in grand Alpine proportions. +Deer were common enough, and there were some tame specimens of the +ordinary black deer running about in the enclosure. We had an early +start, but not quite so early as the Americans; and it was wonderful +how well our four hardy horses did the first stage, six and twenty +miles, including some very sharp ascents from the Hotel. + +From time to time we got out and walked up the sharp bits, diverging +to the right or left to gather the lovely flowers which grew on +the roadside, or halting to admire the giant trees which clothed +the mountain ridges. Pitiable ignorance! not to know the names of +the plants or shrubs or wonderful bunches of blossoms, among which +fluttered the most magnificently coloured butterflies. Woodpeckers +of many different species uttered their quaint notes in jerky flight +from tree to tree, or peered at the travellers from the shelter of +the branches. Firs, pines, and spruces of enormous size, and trees +to me unknown, formed a dense forest on each side of the road; but +now and then we caught glimpses of the stupendous ranges of the alps +beyond. It was lamentable to see the waste and wreck wrought in this +wondrous wealth of timber--reckless, wicked waste. Charred trunks +stood with leafless arms withered and black, or lay prone among the +ferns in myriads. This was, we were told, the work of shepherds, who +think nothing of setting fire to one of the finest trees in the world +to warm themselves for an hour, and are delighted with a conflagration +which may lay a hillside in ashes. And the Indians too are held to +have their share in the destruction. There was enough of timber wasted +and destroyed mile after mile to build a city. The nemesis must come; +already the alarm has been sounded, and the State authorities here and +elsewhere are trying to prevent the mischief. I have often had occasion +to regret my ignorance of botany _inter alia_; but never did I feel it +more than when I was walking up the road, on each side of which was a +carpet of flowers, a maze of shrubs and plants--dense brushwood--to not +one of which could I give a name. We arrived at the Halfway House at +12.35 as much pleased as the horses which brought us there so well at +the respite, for it was an awful "pull up," and the coachman did his +work at high pressure. In the course of our pilgrimage we had found a +very pleasant _divertissement_. The Major, Mr. White, and Mr. Jerome +had excellent voices, and from time to time they burst into song, +giving with great effect the quaint negro melodies, which are now made +familiar to us in London, from a very large _repertoire_; and so the +afternoon passed in quiet enjoyment as we climbed the hills on foot or +in the carriages--snatches of talk, exclamations of wonder and delight, +and outbursts of the 'Golden Slipper,' 'O! that 'Possum,' 'The Ark,' +'John Brown,' 'Tramp, Tramp,' and other choruses. + +It was near 4 o'clock when the driver, who had been silent for some +time, looking round at us occasionally as one who would say, "Wait a +little till I surprise you," suddenly pulling up, said, "Now, here you +are. This is Fascination Point! Won't you get down a bit?" And, lo! +there indeed lay before us a scene of indescribable grandeur. I know +nothing like the effect produced by Yosemite Valley when seen for the +first time from this point. It has a characteristic which no other +similar view I am acquainted with possesses. You take in at one glance +stupendous mountain-ranges, all but perpendicular, beyond which you see +the snowy crests of the great Sierra, the profound valley between them, +a long vista of extraordinary magnificence, of cascades and precipitous +waterfalls, and far down below a silvery river rushing through a +forest composed of the noblest trees in the world, with patches of +emerald-green sward and bright meadows. + +I see that by a slip of the pen I have miscalled the place from which +we got our first view of the wondrous scene. But I have a right to +change the name for my own use. What the driver said was "Inspiration +Point." I prefer my mistake, for the view inspires you with no feeling +save that of wonder and delight. These sublime scenes appear to be +beyond the reach of poetry. Niagara and the Yosemite have not yet +found a laureate. The peculiar and unique feature of the valley seems +to me to be the height and boldness of the cliffs which spring out +from the mountain-sides like sentinels to watch and ward over the +secrets of the gorge; next to that is the number and height of the +waterfalls; but it is only by degrees and by comparison that the mind +takes in the fact that the cliffs are not hundreds, but thousands +of feet high--that these bright, flashing, fleecy cataracts fall for +thousands of feet--that the rent which has been torn in the heart of +the mountains, till it is closed by the awful granite portals beyond +which no mortal may pass, extends for miles. I thought as I gazed +that it were pity to descend, lest a nearer view might destroy the +effect of that _coup d'oeil_; but the driver had regulated the period +for rapture. He whipped us up to our places by word of mouth, and +the carriages renewed their course, now striking by bold zigzags down +into the valley for our destination, which was still six miles away. I +shall not attempt to describe my own feelings, far less can I pretend +to tell what others, probably far more susceptible of the beauty and +grandeur of what we beheld than I am, may have felt at the succession +of the awe-inspiring revelations of the tremendous grandeur of the +Valley which came upon us. What is the use of rolling off a catalogue +of names and figures?--even the brush of the painter, charged with +the truest colours and guided by the finest hand and eye, could never +do justice--that is, could never give a just idea of these cliffs and +waterfalls. "El Capitan! Oh, that's the name, is it? Three thousand +three hundred feet high!" And then you try to take in what that means. +"And it's 3500 feet down to the Valley? Dear me!" "And that is the +Cathedral Rock? And those two peaks are the Spires? I don't exactly see +the resemblance; do you?" + +There was a sort of wail of delight from us all as we came on the +"Bridal Veil Fall"; and I do not think any one cared to know that it +was just 60 short of 1000 feet high! Surely one of the most graceful, +lovely _chutes d'eau_ on earth, lost though it be from view behind the +rocks at the close of its feathery flight! But there was no stopping to +look at anything; relentless Fate drove us down and on, till the wheels +rolled more evenly, and at last we came to the bed of the valley--some +1800 yards broad, opening out here and there yet wider--and we +rejoiced in the sight of the bright clear water of the Merced, child +of innumerable icy mothers, flashing, sparkling, dashing and brawling, +like a myriad Lodores, between her banks decked with flowers and +covered with forest trees. + +Suddenly there dashed out of a glade two cavaliers, and made full tilt +at the leading carriage. "To arms!" Not a bit of it! Nor banditti +or Injuns--of whom we had met one or two riding sullenly along to +the hunting-grounds--no, only two hotel touts armed with cards of +self-commendation, and not apparently in much rivalry, for when told +that we had engaged our hotel, they galloped off to waylay other +travellers, of whose coming they were apprized by our driver. Our +hotel, I may say by the way, gave us full contentment. The site was +admirable, commanding a full and near view of _the_ Fall of Falls--the +Yosemite--which had so fascinated our eyes that we could scarce divert +them to any other object--not "Widow's Tears," or "Virgin's Tears," +nor the "Three Brothers," not anything but the Yosemite! And so, when +our rooms were pointed out, we made off to the spot where the fine +cloudlike vapour rising above the tree-tops indicated the basin into +which the waters sought rest after their troubled leap. + +Our way lay through the usual gathering of stores, hotels, livery +stables for the horses and ponies needed for the excursions, and +curiosity dealers' shops, to the village street, as it may be termed, +shadowed by fine trees, under which reposed some Indians--one of whom, +an Amazon in yellow toga, went riding full gallop past us, her hair +falling in a black mat on her shoulders, sitting low, in Melton style, +regardless of poultry, children, and boulders, and vanishing in a cloud +of dust under the trees. Then we turned to the left and crossed the +river by a rustic bridge; and as I looked down into the dancing waters +certain shadow-like objects flew up against the current. "Trout?" +asked I. "Yes, they're trout. They take 'em--when they dew--five +pounds weight. The Injuns catch 'em. We don't understand it as well." +A short walk, with eyes ever up-turned, and we come out to a moraine, +and, clambering up over a mass of trunks of trees and decaying timber, +_the_ Falls were before us--I cannot write more--no adjective will do. +"Two thousand six hundred and thirty-four feet, mind!" says the voice. +"I don't care," thought we, "it's the most beautiful and wonderful +water-jump ever seen by human eye." "It only remains," as they say, to +state that there is first, falling over a sheet of granite straight as +a wall, a considerable river, which in the plunge comes down at once +1600 feet. There, in a basin of rock, it collects its scattered forces, +under cover of eternal spray and cloud, and then takes another header +of 434 feet to a barrier of granite, against which it rages for a mad +moment, till it swells over and escapes from control by another spring +of 600 feet sheer down--and now it is free, and rushes past at our +feet, a joyous flashing stream. + +We returned through the meadows from the Falls, and as I was walking +in advance of the party a snake wriggled across the path, which I +struck at instinctively with my stick, and was lucky enough to kill +at the first blow. I exhibited the carcass, or whatever a snake's +dead body may be, in triumph to my companions. Further on our way we +fell in with an old Frenchman who was carrying a basket of fruit from +his little garden to the inn. With all the courtesy of his country, +he offered to Lady Green the choicest in his little _corbeille_. He +came from Lorraine very long ago to prospect in the States, almost the +earliest of the pioneers, but he was still strong and active, and he +pointed with great satisfaction up to a white flag planted on a dizzy +height above, which he said he had placed with his own hands. The chief +livery stable keeper is a German named Stegman. The first ascent of the +Dome was made by a young Scotchman named Anderson, from Montrose; so +with Indians, Americans, Mexicans, Europeans, there is a very liberal +representation of the nations of the world, in the season, in the +valley. Mr. Hutchinson, the Conservator of the Valley--one with all +the enthusiasm of the American character in everything pertaining to +the country, aggravated in this instance by an intense admiration for +the valley over which he is appointed to watch--joined us at dinner in +the little inn. Full of information, bubbling over with anecdote and +illustration, and replete with all kinds of knowledge concentrated upon +the one object--the Valley--the Valley--and nothing but the Valley. +He knows its history since the time it was first discovered, and its +natural history and geological formation, and all about the Indians who +lived there and their traditions. It so happened that the Commissioners +of the State of California, who are bound to visit the public +domains, were also at the hotel, and so we had quite an unofficial and +ceremonious meeting; and presently, as we stood in front of the hotel +gazing up on the peaks, lighted up by the stars, and listening to the +thunder of the waterfall, a startling report burst out on the night, +and in another instant the echoes repeated from rock to rock were +crashing through the Valley with the roar of heaven's artillery. It +was the first gun of a salute ordered by the Commissioners to be fired +in honour of the Duke's arrival. The effect was very fine, but I doubt +whether I did not feel full of resentment at the outburst, very much as +the owls and night-hawks might have been expected to feel, if one could +judge from their cries. However, even a salute and echoes must come to +an end, and as we were to get up early to start for the Mirror Lake, we +turned in to bed at an early hour; not, however, to sleep, because the +indefatigable and numerous company in the public room, off which were +our bedrooms, were in high spirits, and the song and the dance, to the +accompaniment of an invalid piano, for some time asserted their sway. + +Mr. Hutchinson had the Duke out early, because it is one of the +obligations to see the sun rise, reflected in the Mirror Lake--if +you can. There is no fear of cloud or rain. In the Mirror Lake is +reflected--or was as we saw it--the precipice at the other side of the +Valley, the bulk of Mount Watkins (so called from a photographer who +has been daring and successful in his renderings of the Yosemite), and +all the surrounding scenery. Once a friend and I saw a cow on its back +in the air, by the shore of a Highland lake. The surface was smooth as +that of the Mirror before us now. It was flapping its tail from side to +side, and its forelegs were up in the sky. We could not make it out at +first. There was, in fact, a cow standing near the water of the loch; +and what we saw was a reflection of the animal, actually stronger and +better defined than the object itself. So it was with the reflections +in the Mirror Lake; but when the sun rose over the cliff and we looked +at the water, the glare was too dazzling. "It was," as Mr. Wright +remarked, "like the electric light." There were curious optical effects +produced, some being troubled with purple, others with green or yellow +in their eyes, after a vain attempt to look at the reflection, but that +did not last long. + +We returned to breakfast to make an early start for Union and Glacier +Points on ponies. Among the company at the hotel, introduced by Mr. +Hutchinson, there was a young lady who was well acquainted with the +Valley, and who proved to be a very agreeable companion in our mountain +ride; but it was not long ere she was candid enough to let it be known +that she did not visit the Yosemite out of love of the picturesque and +beautiful, but that she was interested in the sale of photographs of +the Valley, and was, in fact, a very persuasive and efficient agent of +a firm in San Francisco, who had thus established an outlying picket of +great activity and vigilance; and I am sure we all hope she may always +be as successful with the visitors as she was with us. Of what we saw +from the Glacier Point I must leave others to write or speak. It is +reached by a zigzag on the mountain-side--a peculium of the maker, and +all the "trails," as they are called, in the valley are the property +of individuals or firms who are paid by tariff, and we heard "Eleven +gone up before--Duke Sutherland, Lady Green, Sir Green, Mr. Wright, Mr. +Russell, Mr. Jerome coming! Sixteen coming up behind!" On the plateau +behind the cliffs, from which you look down on the Valley and at the +snowfields on the mountain ranges opposite, there is a log house and +shanty, and there we had a mountain meal ere we began the descent. + +Nothing in the way of riding is more disagreeable than going down +a very sharp mountain-side on a pony not, for all you know, very +sure-footed, and so instead of riding, I resolved to walk, now and +then taking a short cut, to the great discomfiture of feet and boots, +although it is three thousand feet to the bottom, and make the best +of my way and the most of the road, which is very fair, down the zig +zags. I reached the plain thoroughly hot and tired, and bathed in +perspiration, in fifty-seven minutes. The horsekeeper, who came down +with the rest of the party, seemed to have been affected by the rarity +of the atmosphere or something else up at the mountain hostelry, for +he insisted on it that I had ridden down, and demanded his horse. +"What the thunder, Russell, have you done with my horse?" he asked +again and again. Satisfied for the time by my assurances that I had +not ridden at all, he went off, and then, thinking over the matter, +came back again to repeat his question, till I told him I would not +answer it any more. He was an amusing fellow in his way, and affable. +He called the Duke "Sutherland," now and then putting Mr. before it. +As he was watering his horses, he said: "Here, Mister Sutherland, lay +hold of the bucket, will you, whilst I take a turn at this one." And +the Duke did so with alacrity. It was a day of incessant activity. No +sooner had the mountain party come down than they were off again to +drive through the Valley. The rest of our party had already executed +masterly investigations at the foot of all the waterfalls; admired +the Bridal Veil and the Widow's Tear, as one cascade is satirically +termed, "because," says the guide, "it dries up in six months;" had +driven and ridden everywhere and seen everything, and we had to do the +same; but it would need a week of conscientious work to exploit the +Valley thoroughly. At half-past 7, the dinner hour, the little inn was +swarming with people; the stage had arrived with fresh contingents. +Every place was full, and what with the clatter of knives and forks, +the clamour of waiters, the tumult of voices laughing and talking, +it was scarcely possible to conceive that a few short years ago this +valley was in the exclusive possession of the Indian and the wild +beast. There is now, however, a great conflict of interests, and Mammon +is holding his revels in the Valley. The State has voted a certain +sum of money, twenty-five thousand dollars, I think, to buy up the +interests of the trail-makers; that is, those who struck out and made +paths to the various objects of attraction; but no success has yet been +attained in the negotiations, and, indeed, I should think it a very +bad investment for most of them to accept their share of such a sum. +Macaulay, for example, who made the path up to the point from which +we descended to-day, must make many hundreds of dollars in the height +of the season, as he charges so much a visitor, and, besides, has a +restaurant where they take their meals at the top. + +Next day (June 5th) we left the Yosemite with the satisfactory +assurance that we had made the most of our time, though we could not +believe we had done it justice. There were some small "nuages" on the +face of our "Mirror Lake," caused by changes in the mode of conveyance; +but we found six horses and one of the coaches of the country were +better than four horses and two carriages of less capacity. Yosemite, +I may tell my readers, means "Grizzly Bear" (it may be "Great Grizzly +Bear"); but we only heard of one having been thereabouts for a long +time, and I believe it was thoroughly tamed. After a glorious day in +the woods, clambering up the steep from the Valley, and then on by the +road--the only one--to Clarke's, halted there for the night, when we +returned from a ceremonious visit to the "Big Trees." We had a most +delightful ride from Bruce's, and a hard canter back through the woods +on capital ponies, full of life and action, and very sure-footed, but +rather inclined to have their own way, which was not always that of +the rider. We turned into bed at Bruce's, quite delighted with our +expedition, and rather anxious to see the road we had traversed in the +dark by the garish light of day. Every traveller's tale, and every +guide-book of recent date relating to this part of the world, has a +full account of the dimensions, number, appearance, and condition of +these wonders of the world. They are either prostrate, mutilated, or +decaying; not one has survived the stormy life he must have led for +some 3000 years--a few hundreds more or less do not signify. Those +which remain upright are scarred by fire and lightning, and drop their +monster arms, hung with ragged foliage and sheets of bright moss, +mournfully over the ground where their trunks will repose in time to +come. I cannot conceive any object of the kind so magnificent as one +of those Washingtonias in the full vigour of mature treehood; but we +could only fancy what it must have been like by measuring the stems, +for there was not anywhere in the forest a tree to be seen which had +not suffered. The best way to visit the scene--for it may well be +called so--is to strike out from the road on the way to the Yosemite +before the halt at Bruce's; but the hotel-keepers and stage-drivers +will persuade the stranger, if they can, to defer the excursion till +his return from the Valley, so as to make a half-day more out of him. + +_June 6th._--All up at 5 o'clock, and off soon after 6 A.M. The first +stage, eleven miles, we did in two hours and ten minutes--a very +pretty road; the second stage, eight miles, in forty-four minutes. The +ravages made by fires are most deplorable. We had passed through this +great forest track in the dark, but now seen in the morning light, the +trunks of magnificent trees rotting on the ground, or standing upright +with lifeless arms, consumed at the base, were visible everywhere. +It is difficult to find out the exact truth about the cause of these +fires. Some few people said "it was the Indians," but the weight of +testimony attributes them to the shepherds, who for the most trifling +purposes kindle a great fire. In some of the large trees they have +hollowed out regular chambers, and of course the tree dies. Such waste +of timber! For mile after mile we passed scenes of desolation which +ere long those who allowed them will have cause to regret. From time +to time we encountered on the road trains of waggons drawn by teams of +handsome mules with bells, and had occasion to admire the economy of +labour exhibited in the management, by which the driver is enabled to +work a powerful break with one hand whilst he drives with the other. +The next stage, of fourteen miles, was over an exceedingly bad road; +but the horses were good, and we rattled along at a capital speed down +towards the plain. Once the quick-eyed driver, pulling up suddenly, +said, "See that rattle?" leaped down and made towards the bush; and +as we followed him, sure enough we heard distinctly the noise of the +snake, which he had intercepted on its way to a rabbit hole. It took +refuge in a clump of bushes with gnarled roots, and coiled itself round +one of the branches; but by a course of judicious and rather nervous +poking it was driven from its vantage ground, and trying to escape was +killed by the driver with a blow of his whip, followed by a good many +unnecessary strokes from the rest of the party. It was over three feet +long, and had just been making an evening meal upon a rabbit, which it +had left where we had startled it; and it was evident from its swollen +appearance that it had been for some time engaged in the warren close +at hand. + +At 10.20 we reached Fresno, which is what the Americans call "quite +a place," containing not only an hotel, a restaurant, and a store, +but a shop where photographs were exhibited. The _chef-d'oeuvre_, a +portrait of a Spanish lady 140 years of age, living at Los Angeles, did +not, however, commend itself to our taste. We halted at Coarse Gold at +11.40, and left at 12.35. Mr. Jerry Loghlan--who excused himself for +not working on the ground that "there was no use in it, as there was +nothing to be had," the mines being worked "out"--whose acquaintance we +had made on the way up, a huge, broad-shouldered _vaurien_, was still +hanging about with his specimens of quartz, gold, and rattlesnakes' +tails, and a black eye recently acquired in battle. + +After a long, hot, and dusty drive, it was with no small gratification +we made out on the flat the houses of Madera, and after a time the +carriages of the special train. The air is so bright and pure that the +distances are very deceptive, and it was nearly 5 o'clock P.M. before +we reached the station, which had been visible for more than an hour +previously. It was pleasant news to hear that the little German barber +at the way-side had got baths all ready. In the rear of his shop there +was a row of apartments, each provided with a clean zinc bath, hot and +cold water to turn on at discretion, and an abundance of towels. This +in the centre of a waste seemed very creditable to the civilisation +of the people. I should like to know in what part of Europe you would +get similar comfort under similar circumstances. I am afraid there are +many parts of the British Islands where a traveller would demand such +a luxury in vain. And the barber was there to shave those who needed +it, and to give you all the news of the day if you wanted it. He was +a Prussian, and he grinned from ear to ear as, in reply to my question +whether he had served, he said: "Serve, indeed! Not I. I came away and +escaped from all that nonsense. There is not a king or an emperor or a +prince that I would fight for. Why should I?" "But," said I, "you would +have to fight for the Republic here if it were in danger; and that +would not be fighting for your fatherland." "Yes," said he, "it would, +for this is my fatherland now. But I do not want to fight for it either +if I can help it. Fighting is nonsense." + +Our excellent stewards received us, if not with open arms, with smiling +faces. The carriages were trim and clean and fresh, the tables spread +out, and all kinds of dainties provided for the evening meal. We rested +quietly for the night in the siding at Madera, and got under weigh at +5 o'clock on the morning of June 7th, the train being timed so as to +reach San Francisco at 12.30. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +SAN FRANCISCO. + + The Palace Hotel--General McDowell--Palo-Alto--The + "Hoodlums"--The Real Sir Roger--Exiles in the Far West--The + Chinese Population--For and Against them--The Sand Lot--Fast + Trotters--The Sea Lions--The Diamond Palace--The Coloured + Population--"Eastward Ho!" + + +The British Consul, Mr. Booker, who has been watching over the +interests of the Queen's subjects for some thirty years here, and who +is an institution by himself, met the train at a place called, I think, +Porta Costa, and welcomed the Duke and his friends. There had been +for some days an infusion of the Chinaman in the general element of +life along the line, but here it became concentrated, and then ceased +to attract much attention. As the train approached the wide expanse +of muddy water from the Sacramento, which charges down with impetuous +volume, and colours the bay with its turbid stream, we could form an +idea of some of the advantages in the expanse of navigable river, that +had, however, lain long without appreciation but for the bright red +gold possessed by San Francisco. The bay is animated; white canvassed +craft stud its waters, and the smoke of steamers pollutes the clear, +bracing air. Italian fishermen are busy with line and net, and flights +of ducks and squadrons of gulls and cormorants show that the waters +are well stocked. It was too late in the year to see the country in +the full affluence of its wealth of fruit and crops, of hay and corn, +and the hillsides and fields are now disappointingly brown. Presently +we arrived at Oakland, where the train was run out on a pier 3500 +yards long, to the steam ferry-boat which was to convey us across +to San Francisco. The ferry-boat was crowded, for Oakland is a city +of some 50,000 people; and of course it had once on a time, not very +remote, only a few sheds and insignificant houses. From this side of +the bay the city of the Golden Gate, some miles away, was now visible +in all its pride of place--pride but not beauty, now at least--for the +city presents no great attraction to the eye. The streets, running in +parallel lines at right angles to the quay right up the sandy hillside, +look like the ribs of some stranded monster, "lank and lean and +brown." The most prominent object is the hotel to which we are going, +which towers far over the general level of house-top, steeple, and +factory-chimney. + +There is a little pamphlet, crammed with statistics and with an array +of figures and superlatives enough to daze one, given to the guests +of the Palace Hotel; but those who are in that happy category scarcely +need the information, and those who are not could not derive any idea +of the building from the repetition of the ciphers which are to be +found in the guide-book. The drawing on the outside affords the best +notion of the size, but only actual purview can enable one to judge +of the excellent arrangements, the service, the table. For once the +American idol "Immensity" is not overlaid. "'Tis blinding bright--'tis +blazing white! O Vulcan! what a glow!" Electric lights flooding the +court with brightness beyond description. And what a court! Sweetness +and light indeed! In the great quadrangle, 144 feet by 84, there are +fountains playing, groups of statuary, and exotic plants, and, tier +after tier, rise the pillared terraces outside the seven storeys of +which the main building consists, painted a lustrous white, shining +like purest Parian. There are 755 rooms, abounding in conveniences, +and comfortably luxurious. Each is provided with high-pressure hot and +cold water, and there is an elaborate system of ventilation, alarms, +conductors, pneumatic tubes, telephones, and "annunciators" for fire, +letters, servants, &c. The beds are excellent; the furniture admirable; +and this vast structure, 120 feet high, 275 feet broad, and 350 feet +deep, is not only fire, but--listen--"earthquake proof"; so says the +bill of fare, and so says ex-Senator W. Sharon, the proprietor. I have +not the least desire to test the truth of the averment, but if I must +be in a hotel when an earthquake visits the city in which I am, let me +be in the Palace, San Francisco. A man may live here in the enjoyment +of a pretty continuous series of meals and one of the best bedrooms +for four dollars a day, and there is a lower tariff of bed and board at +three dollars a day. + +_June 8th._--Our first day was rendered exceedingly pleasant by the +kindness of General McDowell. The weather did its very best to prevent +our enjoying it, and was signally defeated. San Francisco is perhaps +the windiest city in the world, and at this time of year there is +almost always a storm in the harbour, and a steady, powerful, and +somewhat chilly blast, setting in a little before noon, and lasting +throughout the day until nearly sundown, up the streets. The General's +aide-de-camps came over early to the hotel, in full uniform, in honour +of Major-General Green, but General McDowell appeared in mufti, which +eased us down a little. A powerful steamer, the "_General Macpherson_," +was prepared for the party, which was swollen by a considerable number +of gentlemen invited by our host to meet the Duke, and the gentlemen +from Topeka, who were included in the invitation. The excursion +afforded a favourable opportunity of inspecting the city defences. +From Alcatraz Fort, Point and Presidio Island batteries, which would +not be considered very formidable as far as armament is concerned, +although their position affords great advantages for torpedo defence, +salutes were fired in honour of Sir Henry Green. But in the case of +some of us the sight was marred by the rising sea, which increased to +an inconvenient height as the steamer reached the Seal Rocks, close to +the entrance to the bay. Of the seals I shall give an account farther +on. They did not seem to mind the steamer very much until she blew her +whistle, when many of them splashed into the sea. At the termination of +the trip, which lasted some four hours, General McDowell entertained +the party at his official quarters, which are beautifully situated on +a bluff overhanging the water of the bay. + +_June 9th._--We spent, in some respects, an abortive and deceitful +day; not, indeed, that there was anything disappointing about our +entertainment at Belmont, under the auspices of ex-Senator Sharon; +but that we started full of enterprise, and intent upon inspecting the +great works of the Spring Valley Reservoir, and of making an excursion +through what was described as a very beautiful county whence is +brought the water supply of the great city in which we were sojourning. +However, though we were baulked in the object of our expedition, the +day passed, and not in the least degree unpleasantly, and instead of +going to the Lakes we drove about the neighbourhood of Belmont, and +visited several country seats. + +No one who visits San Francisco should omit taking an early opportunity +of going to Palo-Alto to inspect the stock of General Stanford's +thorough-breds, and the breeding establishment, which as a sample of +perfect order and management cannot be surpassed. I cannot answer for +the figures, but I was informed that the owner spends 25,000_l._ a year +upon the maintenance of his stud and stables, and that he has not as +yet sold a colt or filly, or parted with a single animal; sires, mares, +and young brood now amounting to about 700 head. They are beautifully +housed in detached stables fitted up with every convenience that a +horse of the highest pedigree and most luxurious taste can desire. +I was particularly struck with the perfect silence which prevailed +throughout the stables. No shouts to "stand over there," and none of +that "----" (groom's expletive) which is so common in our country. +And partly owing perhaps to that mode of treatment, and to gentleness +in handling, all the horses without exception seemed tractable and +sweet-tempered. High-bred stallions stood out in the open for our +inspection, and allowed themselves to be rubbed and felt without even +laying down their ears or raising a hind-leg from the ground. In reply +to a question respecting a remarkably beautiful animal, which seemed to +have a little more fire in him, the head groom said "You may walk under +his belly if you like," and then and there he told one of the grooms +to do so, which the man did, without attracting any unusual degree of +attention from the animal. Outside one of the large blocks of stables +there is a kind of testing arena, in which we were told it was the +pleasure of General Stanford, when he was at home, to sit watching the +performance of his young horses. It is an ellipse, like a large circus, +bordered with a hoarding, and in the centre there is a raised stage for +the visitors, on which are revolving chairs. The riding-master, with an +attendant, performing the functions of the late Mr. Widdicombe, sets +the animal in motion, checking him when he breaks into a gallop. The +speed at which the animal trots the ellipse is known by the time marked +on a chronometer, and the fact is recorded for the information of the +inspectors, who can turn round their chairs and follow the action of +the horse as it trots round the ring. + +The district of the State in which Palo-Alto is situated boasts of +several residences of the Californian millionaires. One house which +we visited, I think belonging to Mr. Flood, furnished the most ornate +and beautiful examples of woodwork that were ever seen by any of the +party. The house, which was as large as a good-sized English country +mansion, is constructed of timber of the finest quality, beautifully +worked, painted and varnished; and with moderate care a mansion of this +kind will last, in this climate, a couple of hundred years, which to +the American mind is an eternity. There were artists from New York, +and the staff of an upholsterer and decorator of great renown from the +Empire City were still busily engaged in the place as we went through +the rooms. The magnificent halls, reception-rooms, billiard-rooms, +library, bedrooms, all fitted up with extraordinary luxuriousness, +but in a somewhat florid taste, were of wood, the doors of many of +the apartments arresting attention by their extraordinary beauty and +finish. The ceilings decorated in fresco by Italian artists, and bright +windows filled with stained glass gave an appearance of light and +grace to the whole residence. The kitchen arrangements were marvels +of ingenuity, and one envied the butler who would have such a pantry +as that which was displayed for our inspection. Some of the pictures +which were ready to be placed on the walls were remarkable, however, +only for the richness of their frames; and, indeed, we heard that +the excellent proprietor was not a man of very cultivated taste; a +child of fortune, in the prime of life and of money-making, spending +a portion of his enormous wealth with an easy hand, but destitute of +what is called book-learning, and leaving to some future generation the +cultivation of the graces and the acquirement of accomplishments which +the circumstances of his early life had denied him to effect. + +It had been arranged that we should return to San Francisco to dinner, +but Senator Sharon had in his secret heart resolved that we should do +nothing of the kind, or at least, that if we did so, it should only be +after we had partaken of such a feast at Belmont as would very much +indispose us to test the capabilities of the _chef_ of the Palace +Hotel. From Palo-Alto accordingly we were driven to the charming +country house, some miles away, of the ex-senator of Oregon, and we +were regaled there, after some delay, at a very elaborate _dejeuner_, +sent out from San Francisco. It was nigh 8 o'clock ere we got back +to the city; and the night ended by what might well be called "an +excursion" to the Baldwin Theatre, which was at the time the most +attractive of the places of entertainment of that sort open in the +city. As some of us were walking back, after the play was over, with +an American friend, talking of the "hoodlums," famous rowdies, who, we +were assured, had been of late days utterly broken up by the vigilance +of the police, our attention was attracted to a number of lads smoking +at the corner of the street. Our friend said "Hoodlums broken up! There +they are--don't you believe it. That's a lot of them, and if you were +alone you might find out very unpleasantly that there are plenty of +them." + +The San Francisco journalists possess astonishing powers of +imagination. I rubbed my eyes when I read that I had described "with +eloquence the similarity between a marsh at San Bruno and a patch +of jungle in the north-west of Scinde, where I had the felicity +of spending three weeks with General Green while the natives were +arranging a plan to capture the party and cut our throats." I never +was in the north-west of Scinde in my life, and, although I had the +pleasure of passing a longer time in his company in the United States, +and of being on the same plateau before Sebastopol when he was there, +for a still longer period, many years before, I never spent three +weeks there with General Green. The Duke was described as "professing, +but showing, little enthusiasm." However, these matters are of very +slight interest or importance; only one wonders how many of the readers +of this sort of literary work believe in it. One of our party has, +according to a local paper, become a clergyman, and now rejoices in the +style and title of "the Bishop," by which he is universally addressed +by the party. + +While in the train, on our way to Belmont, I had the pleasure of +being introduced to a gentleman who, although a lawyer in very large +practice, is General of the State Volunteers; and in the course of +conversation, I heard that he had papers containing the statement of +a gentleman who had visited, and which convinced him that the real +Roger Tichborne was living not very far from San Francisco. General +Barnes, whose name and character stand high in the city of the Golden +Gate, and whom I found to be a gentleman of great intelligence, seemed +perfectly satisfied by the story told by this new "claimant"; but what +he mentioned to me did not at all tend to create in my mind any notion +that he was not an impostor, and especially were my doubts confirmed by +the quotations which General Barnes made from some of the narrative, in +which there was a ridiculous jumble of French and English, in order to +justify, apparently, the stress placed by the "claimant" in his story +on that part of his life which was passed in France. He spoke of his +uncle as "mon oncle," and of Thursday as "Jeudi," and so on. However, +General Barnes appeared to be so impressed by the truthfulness of the +man's bearing, and by the full details he gave him at an audience +in which he supplied the facts for the consecutive narrative which +I was promised, that I expressed a desire to read it. General Barnes +subsequently sent me a long written paper containing the heads of the +claimant's story, a perusal of which strengthened the conviction I +had previously entertained. I only mention this circumstance because +there was a report spread throughout the Press, by the agency of one +of the great telegraphic associations which furnish the American +public with intelligence, that the Duke of Sutherland and myself +had interviewed the real Roger Tichborne at San Francisco, and had +satisfied ourselves that he was the man; and innumerable "headings" +were invented for this supposed interview, of which I was soon made +aware on my return westward in every newspaper that I read. I promptly +denied the statement that the Duke or myself had seen the new claimant, +and although the denial appeared in print I was exasperated day after +day by being asked questions afterwards with regard to this supposed +conversation with Tichborne at San Francisco, and by inquiries as to +my real impression; so it would appear that no one had seen or paid +any attention to the refutation of the story which had brought down +on my devoted head communications from friends of other Tichbornes, +of whom there are several living, some in poverty and others in +comparative affluence, in various cities and districts of the United +States. I had further the mortification of seeing it stated in print +that I had used disparaging words in alluding to the credulity of +General Barnes, which was an entirely baseless fabrication. With all +the extraordinary keenness of the American mind generally, there is +associated with it a considerable amount of the Anglo-Saxon quality +which is termed "gullibility," and the land swarms with impostors who +make a living out of the easy faith of the population. I do not speak +merely of spiritualists, quacks, and professors of peculiar religions +or medical dogmas, nor of the preachers of eccentric forms of faith or +unbelief, but of the mass of persons who contrive to get an existence +by representing that they are "someone else." Although their tricks +are well known, the trade still flourishes. They are always the "sons +of peers," who have got into disgrace with their families, but who +will eventually be owners of castles of historic fame and of enormous +estates; "distinguished soldiers"; "Maids of Honour to the Queen," +who for some unknown reasons are living in small out-of-the-way +villages in the West; or political conspirators who have played a great +part on some distinguished stage and have saved themselves from the +consequences of defeated enterprize by taking refuge in the States. +And then there are hordes of persons who are known by the title of +"confidence men," who travel about on the trains or in the steamers, +looking out for victims, or lounging about the bars and saloons, +waiting for their prey in the shape of some facile and easy-eared +stranger, who in consideration of their merits and distress shall give +them temporary assistance. Sometimes, doubtless, there are cases of +very real suffering, sorrow, and poverty, to which exile in the United +States affords a melancholy refuge. I was obliged to hear in one great +city of a gallant soldier who, reduced to poverty by no fault of his +own, had quitted England and given up the society of his friends, +and lived in a small suburb of a town on the coast of the Pacific, +his secret known only to one or two officials, shunning all contact +with his countrymen and evading as far as possible all inquiries of +his friends. In San Francisco, where there is a poor-house open to +strangers and to native-born Americans alike, there are, I am told, to +be met with extraordinary exemplifications of the "downs" of fortune. +Adventurous and daring spirits, and pioneers of civilisation, at one +time probably possessed of wealth which was wasted in dissipation, +or lost in unfortunate speculations, are there, talking of the days +that are gone, in all languages of the world, and awaiting their end; +while others who started with them in the same race are building their +palaces or revelling in the enjoyment of wealth, compared to which our +greatest fortunes are, if figures can be trusted, a mere bagatelle. How +rapidly some of these fortunes can be made was illustrated by numerous +stories connected with some of the richest men in California. I was +told by an eminent tradesman of San Francisco that one day a miner came +into his establishment to buy a watch, which he said must be cheap +and good, for he wanted something he could trust to in the matter of +time, as he was going off with a party on an exploring expedition +after gold. This was in the early time of the great "booms" in the +West. He selected a watch, for which he paid $40, and departed. The +following day he appeared in the shop and asked to see the proprietor, +and then, producing the watch, he said he would like to have $30 for +it, as he had lost all his money in a "spree" the night before and +must have something to start with. The jeweller said, "Well, I will +return you what you gave me for the watch, as it has suffered no harm, +and you shall have your $40 back again." The man went away exceedingly +rejoiced, and the incident was forgotten. Some eighteen months +afterwards a man came to the establishment, and looking at rings, gold +chains, and jewellery of the most costly character, and asking for the +best of everything that they had got, gave orders which occasioned the +attendant to have some doubts as to his sanity, or certainly as to the +means he had of paying the amount, which was rapidly running up to tens +of thousands of dollars. So he sought out his principal. The strange +customer said, "I suppose you don't know me?" which was admitted to +be the case. He went on buying all the same, making the remark, "You +need not be uneasy about the money, for So-and-so (the bankers) will +tell you I am all right, and when you send the things home you shall +be paid. I am Joe Smith, from whom some time ago you took a watch he +bought from you when he came to your store, and gave him the full value +for it when he was in want of money," and so departed, having shown his +gratitude by buying 6000_l._ worth of jewellery. This worthy miner is +now one of the wealthy pillars of the State. + +The Chinese quarter of San Francisco has been described, I will not say +_ad nauseam_, but as often as any book has been written which contains +an account of a visit to the city of the Golden Gate. Of course we +went there, and saw all that was to be seen under the best possible +auspices, for Mr. Bee, whom I have already mentioned, was our guide +and companion, assisted by an exceedingly intelligent officer of the +police force; and on the occasion of our second visit, when we went to +the theatre, we had the advantage of being under the protection of the +gentleman who represents law and order, on behalf of the municipality, +in connection with the Chinese population and the arrangements for +theatrical performances. + +The inspection of the dreadful den in which the opium-smokers were to +be seen suggested to my mind a train of thought in connection with the +traffic which I would not willingly have communicated to my American +friends. It will seem incredible some day to the awakened conscience +of the nation that we should have ever sanctioned such a frightful +crime as the opium traffic. "It only poisons about two millions of +people," is the excuse, "and brings in one-sixth of the whole revenue +of India." If ever it were justifiable to utter the exclamation "Perish +India!" it would be, I believe, in regard to that disgraceful source of +revenue, and the necessity that is imposed upon us, as it is alleged, +to raise it, in order to maintain the government of our Indian empire. +Here in San Francisco the State has nothing to do with the sale of the +poison, and it is very questionable whether the police regulations +should not be applied to it, just as they are to persons who have +tried to commit suicide, or to the inebriates in public-houses, or to +places where intemperance is carried on to an extent injurious to the +public peace. Death is the inevitable result of continued indulgence +in opium-smoking, although it is true that in some cases the victim +lingers on a few years, utterly indifferent to all the business of life +except the one--the means of supplying himself with his only source +of enjoyment. I was in one of the shops where they sell the drug, and +was much struck by the cadaverous, sunken faces of the unfortunate +customers, with bright dreamy eyes, trembling limbs, and wasted bodies, +who came in to buy it. It is cheap enough, in all conscience, as a very +small quantity suffices to produce what is called "the desired effect"; +but for its bulk it is exceedingly dear, and indulgence in it must +consume a considerable amount of the earnings of the best-paid artisans +when they are no longer able to earn sufficient to keep them with a +full supply. "Then," as our informant says, "they will commit any crime +to get it." + +The general impression made upon me by the appearance of the Chinese +population was most favourable. I do not now speak of what one might +see in going through the haunts where the police regulations assign +exclusive possession to certain classes of the population, which, sooth +to say, seemed numerous enough; I refer to the business quarters, and +to the crowds of cleanly, intelligent, well-behaved people of both +sexes in the streets. General McDowell, and many other persons, for +whose opinion the greatest respect must be entertained, look with +apprehension on the effect of the Chinese immigration, and have, +indeed, declared that it will destroy the Union if it be not checked; +and these apprehensions are based upon the possibility that in time +millions on millions of the swarming population of China will inundate +the United States, gradually overrun town after town, usurping all +the fields of labour, and beating down the white man to the greatest +misery by competition in every branch of trade, industry, and labour. +This party has successfully, I believe, impressed its views upon a +considerable number of senators and representatives in the Eastern +States, who can exercise pressure on the Supreme Government; and +the treaty recently signed between the Republic and China contains +provisions which enable the authorities at the western seaports to +exercise considerable control over the current of emigration. But, on +the other hand, it is alleged that the fears which are expressed of +a rapidly increasing exodus of Chinese from China, and an anabasis +into the United States, are purely imaginary--in fact, unreal and +pretentious. The pro-Chinese party allege that the emigration comes +from only one port in one province, and that you may go all over the +West, and ask any Chinaman or Chinawoman where he or she comes from, +and you are met with the invariable answer, from the one port. The +friends of the Chinese--arguing, moreover, that the State at large +is benefited enormously by the accession to its resources from the +Celestial Empire, and that the labour was attacked, not because it +was cheap, but because it was good; that it is now indispensable, for +without Chinamen and Chinawomen it would be almost impossible to carry +on the ordinary life of these cities--allege that the agitation which +has been so violent in San Francisco is mainly encouraged by those +who want to secure the Irish vote. Colonel Bee represents these views +very strongly. He argues that Canton, not larger than the State of +New Hampshire, is the sole source of emigration. He insists on it that +there are no more than 100,000 Chinese in the whole of the Union, and +that for the last ten years the emigrants have not sufficed to fill +the places of those who had gone home with money, never intending to +return, or who had died. He maintains, indeed, that the Chinese are +decreasing rather than otherwise; and with all the power of figures, +which he has at his fingers' ends as Consul, demonstrates that a very +large proportion of the Chinese who are entered as arriving at San +Francisco and other parts are the same men and women as those who came +some years previously and went back to their native country, returning +to gain more dollars. + +The principal enemies of the Chinese are the Irish, who, having +monopolised the whole of the work of bricklayers, plasterers, carters, +porters, and general labourers until their arrival, have been forced +to reduce their rates of labour steadily by the competition of the +Chinaman. + +The part of the population of San Francisco denominated the Sand lot, +and especially those connected with the political associations of the +city, do not by any means share Colonel Bee's views; but the agitation +is dying out, and the meetings, which were of weekly occurrence, to +excite the people against the Mongolians have decreased in number, +importance, and interest. The directors of public companies, and +the contractors for public works, are all in favour of the Chinese +workman, who is sober, industrious, and orderly; and although the trade +combinations among them are exceedingly subtle, and their powers of +association for trade purposes remarkable, being moreover the most +ancient in the world, the Chinese in the Western States have not as +yet taken to indulge in the luxury of strikes. As domestic servants, +nurses, and attendants on children, they appear to be affectionate +and careful; and nothing could be better than the service of the hotel +in which we were lodged, the great portion of which was carried on by +Chinamen and women. + +_June 10th._--In the spacious courtyard of the Palace Hotel, at +7 o'clock this morning, there might have been observed three +well-appointed waggons (as Americans call the vehicle more +appropriately termed "spider" at the Cape), each with two horses +of race, fast trotters, panting for a spin through the city and the +Park out to the shores of the Pacific. The Duke and Sir H. Green and +Mr. Stephen were driven by Mr. Howard. Mr. Wright was "personally +conducted" by Mr. ----, and I was put behind a pair of as handsome +chestnuts as could well be seen anywhere, of which the owner and +driver (General Barnes) was very reasonably proud. The streets of +San Francisco, like those of most of the American cities we have +visited, are atrociously paved; the torture of driving over boulders +is aggravated by the sharp ribs of the tram ways, so that it is not +pleasant, if, indeed, it be possible, to drive rapidly till the limit +of municipal incompetence or fraud be passed. But once out on the +suburbs the chestnuts were invited to step it, and were bowling along +at a good fourteen miles an hour on our way to the Park, over as good +a road as horse or man ever felt under hoof or foot. The Park not long +ago was a waste of sand, it is now swarded and planted with shrubs, and +luxuriant with flowers. Notices that it was unlawful to do more than +ten miles an hour were posted up, but the General did not pay strict +attention to them till he came near shady places, where experience +warned him that policemen might be lying privily in ambush. The pace +was quickened till the waggon seemed to fly through the air rather +than move over the ground. It was the perfection of travelling on +wheels--almost as buoyant as a headlong gallop. The waggon weighed but +180 lb., the powerful animals "scarcely felt it more than their tails." +I had a turn at the reins by "kind permission" of the General. The art +of driving trotters needs practice. You must keep a strong, steady +pull on the head, or they "break." Very soon I had the satisfaction +of making the chestnuts break the law with a vengeance, and of hearing +the General say, "We are just within the three minutes! not ten seconds +inside it!"--that is, of trotting at the rate of just twenty miles an +hour. Up hill and down hill, and along the flat out of the Park and +over the smooth road, and in half an hour the Pacific was in sight, and +the murmurs of the surf rose above the rhythm of the regular beat of +the eight hoofs in front of us! Cliff House was in view. Seal Rocks, +in their setting of foam, lay before us, and in forty minutes from the +time we left the hotel, despite policemen, miles of bad pavements, and +tramways, we drew up at the steps of Cliff House, nine miles from San +Francisco, and the trotters had not turned a hair. From the verandah +at the sea front of the hotel, we enjoyed for half an hour a spectacle +which is, as far as I know, unique. At the distance of 500 or 600 yards +from the beach at our feet there is a group of four very rugged rocks, +with serrated edges and tops, the sides broken here and there into +ledges and small platforms. They are too small to be called islands, +the largest being, as it seemed, not 100 yards wide. The slopes are +not, I think, so steep as they looked on the land side. On the two +largest of these rocks there were herds of sea-lions, so close that we +could see, through very poor opera-glasses, with the greatest ease, +their eyes, teeth, and whiskers, as they reposed or played with each +other. Some had clambered to the highest ledges, escalading the sides +by a series of painful-looking struggles with their flappers; others +were fast asleep in cosy nooks; some were tossing their heads about and +making believe to bite each other in sport; the younger ones were bent +on teasing their fathers and mothers by uncouth gambols. As they played +or moved they uttered cries between a bark and a roar; now and then the +noise was like that of a pack of hounds in full cry, and the effect of +the strange sound mingling with the tumult of the surf and the beat of +the waves was most singular and "eldrich." Those fresh from the sea +were shining black, but became lighter as they dried. The older ones +were not darker than cinnamon bears or unwashed sheep. As many of those +on the rocks had not long left the water the general effect of the +herd put one in mind of a gathering of enormous slugs on cabbages--not +a poetic simile, but a just one, I think. Occasionally a sea-lion, +hungry or bored by his companions, threw himself with a splash into the +wave, and it was interesting to watch the rapidity and actual grace of +his movements in the sea compared with his laborious efforts on the +land. One could see them quite clearly through the body of the heavy +billows; occasionally a bold one would glide close on shore and fish +in the edge of the surf, raising his head and shoulders clear above +the surface, and then diving out of sight. They were cruising about +in every direction. You remember the sea-lion at the Zoo, of which the +French attendant was so fond? Well, the creatures below and before us +were most of them double the size of that fellow, and several exceeded +the largest ox in size. The monsters are quite well known; one is named +Ben Butler, "because he is such a great beast." They were formerly +protected by law, but some one thought they killed too many fish, and +the law was repealed. They are safe all the same, for there is a law +against the discharge of firearms within 300 yards of an inhabited +dwelling; Cliff House throws its aegis over the sea-lions in that wise; +but the quantity of fish which must be devoured by these mountainous +phocae (an they be so) daily would maintain a decently-sized city. The +hide furnishes the "sealskin" used to cover trunks, and the body yields +oil fat, and the tusks are close, white, and hard. These sea-lions +breed far away up north, and come with their young regularly every +year to the same resorts; but incessant war is waged upon them by the +sealers and whalers, so that the chances are against the beast where he +is not protected by law, and their numbers do not increase. Altogether, +the spectacle was one never to be forgotten. A hotel, with oysters +awaiting us for a forebreakfast refection in the background, waggons +from Michigan, horses from Kentucky, all the apparatus of civilised +life close at hand, the Pacific and its strange wild denizens at our +feet! "Let us turn in and have an oyster." "What! oysters in June?" +"Yes, and good ones too." In this favoured land oysters are in season +all the year round. There are no oysters found on the coast, I am told, +and they will not breed. They are brought all the way from the Atlantic +coast when they are mere oysterlets, and they are laid down in the +Pacific, where they grow fat and large, but are not "crossed in love," +and therefore are fit to be eaten from January to January. They are +about the size of a spring chicken, and need some courage on the part +of an assailant who desires to dispose of them as he would a native. + +This was our last day in the city of the Golden Gate, and the +photographers were masters of the situation; and there was much +_debris_ of sight-seeing to sweep up--visits to be made, shops to be +inspected, among which I must mention specially the Diamond Palace +of Colonel Andrews, one of the handsomest jeweller's "stores" in +the world, though it is not as large as the establishments of the +principal firms in London, Paris, Vienna, or as Tiffany's in New +York. The distinctive feature of the interior is the decoration of the +paintings of fair women, on the ceiling and the walls above the cases, +by necklaces, diadems, zones, and other feminine ornaments of real +diamonds, emeralds, rubies, and pearls. The pictures are the work of +an Italian artist of merit, and the general effect is very striking; +but I doubt whether it is a good way of inducing people to buy the +articles which bedeck the ideal beauties. At Bradley and Rulofson's +we saw photographs of many of our friends, and had one more proof of +the smallness of the world. Every one we knew seemed to have visited +San Francisco. There we all submitted to inevitable fate, and left our +negatives behind us, but the Duke was captured by a rival photographic +institution, and had a sitting all to himself. + +The aspect of a crowd in a large American city differs from that of +the passers-by in the street of an English town, most of all in the +appearance of such a large proportion of coloured people. Here it may +be said, however, that they are colourless, as the prevailing hue of +the foreign population is that of the Chinaman. In Canada the number +of negroes, or of persons of negro descent, of varying gradations of +colour, is remarkable, considering the circumstances, but they probably +may be accounted for by the emigration in the olden times of those +who were escaping from slavery, or who went with their masters and +employers into the Dominion. In the cities on the Lakes I was very +much struck by the persons of undoubted African descent who are to +be met with in the streets in great numbers; and in Chicago there is +a quarter nearly exclusively occupied by them--honest, industrious, +hard-working people seemingly, given to stand about at the street +corners, however, a good deal on Sundays, and cultivating a bright +attire, especially on the part of the ladies, whose bonnets and +shawls were things to wonder at. There are loafers amongst them, as +there are amongst their betters; but, taking them all in all, in the +Northern, Western, and Atlantic States, they are a decidedly useful +element in the population, easing the burden of labour to the white +man, and following many occupations, such as those of waiters, barbers, +bricklayers, and labourers in the less skilled sort of work, for which +it would be difficult to find American substitutes. One peculiarity, +which may be accounted for by some wiser person than myself, seems to +be their recklessness as to what they put on their heads. Whether it +is merely a compliance with the custom of the white man, which impels +them to cover the highly effective protection against sun and cold +which Nature has given them, or not; or whether it is that the canons +of taste in such matters have not yet settled down to those accepted +by people in civilised life in the Western world, the male negro has +the most extraordinary indifference as to the quality and shape of the +thing which he calls a hat or cap, and it would not be easy to find out +of the gutters of some Irish country town anything more dilapidated, +battered, and utterly incoherent than some of the hats which one may +see on the heads of people of colour, especially down South. Whatever +other virtues they may have, neatness is not amongst them; for, with +all their affectation of finery, their clothes are generally ill-kept, +their houses are unkempt, and, where they are cultivators of the soil, +the operations are performed in a slovenly manner. The traditions of +the old plantation have descended upon them, and influence them. + +On my way from Messrs. Donahue and Kelly, the bankers in Montgomery +Street--I believe the former of these gentlemen has had the +privilege of giving his name to steamers and cities, leastways +railway stations--I saw a party of sailors belonging to the United +States steamer "_Rodgers_," now about to proceed in search of the +"_Jeannette_," and I was much struck by their resemblance to our own +bluejackets in general "cut of the jib," dress, face, and figure. +They were in charge of a smart-looking officer, and had been paying a +farewell visit to the fruit and vegetable markets--one of the sights of +the city. They were in high good-humour, laughing and chatting loudly, +more than is the wont of Americans, and I could not but contrast +their fine physique with that of the soldiers we had seen at Sir Henry +Green's parade when General McDowell took us round the harbour. The +detachment at the Fort, consisting of infantry and artillerymen, and +squads of different regiments, had some weedy veterans in the ranks, +who had lost their setting up and did not look fit for much work; but +the sailors, probably a picked lot, were good all round. + +_A propos_ of Messrs. Donahue and Kelly, the number of wealthy +men in San Francisco of Irish origin or nationality is remarkable. +Millionaires with names of Milesian prefixes and terminations are +phenomenal. We had intended to return to the East Coast by way of Utah, +and to stay a day or two at Salt Lake City, but the railroad company +did not consider it expedient to give the party the facilities which +had been accorded in every other instance by the American authorities +to the Duke and his friends. To have gone round Salt Lake City would +have cost a couple of hundred pounds more for haulage, and we were +much more interested in seeing Leadville and Denver than the City of +the Mormons; the game was not thought to be worth the candle, and +it was resolved that we would go back as we came, in charge of the +representatives of the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railroad Company. +It was only one item more in the long list of things we ought to have +seen if we could, and I can safely say that we had a large share of the +common experience of travellers in regard to the relations between the +possible and the impossible in the course of a journey in a strange +land, where there are for ever cropping up representations that "you +really ought not to leave without seeing" so and so. The evening of our +last day was passed in the society of General McDowell, Mr. Morgan, +the English Consul, Colonel Bee, and others, who had done so much to +make the visit to San Francisco all that could be desired, and whose +courtesy and kindness will ever be remembered by every one of us most +gratefully. Like Sir Charles Coldstream, we "had seen everything, +done everything," but, unlike him, had found there was plenty in it. +The street railway--most ingenious and successful, invaluable in a +hilly city like Lisbon--the Chinese Theatre, the Joss houses--shops, +eating-houses, opium dens of the Chinese quarter, the clubs, the +principal buildings, the streets, the shops, the markets, the harbour, +the suburbs, and country round about--all had been inspected, and +yet each day we were told that we were doing positive injustice to +ourselves and to the objects which were perforce neglected. In the +morning there was a levee in the hotel to bid the Duke good-bye and +see the party start on their return journey. At the very last moment a +gentleman came forward with a proposal to take us to the North Pole by +balloon, but there was not time to consider it in all its bearings and +the offer was declined with thanks. We started at 10 A.M., and the Duke +was attended to the boat and to the station across the water by a large +body of San Franciscans, who took leave ere the train started. The +gentlemen who were with us on the journey westwards attended the Duke +on his way towards the Eastern States. All day we travelled through +California--"the hot furnace"--which at first, however, proved to be +only very warm, and the coloured servants had constant supplies of iced +compounds to be drunk for the solace of the homeward bound, and had +laid in a stock of San Franciscan luxuries to soothe the way. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +CALIFORNIA TO COLORADO. + + Los Angeles--Mud-geysers--"Billy the Kid"--General + Fremont--Manitou, the Garden of the Gods--Desperadoes--Bob + Ingersoll--Denver City--Leadville--Grand Canyon. + + +_June 12th._--The train stopped at Los Angeles at six in the morning, +and, drawing up my window-blind, the first person I saw on the platform +was our good friend Colonel Baker, who had come to meet us, intent +on the good offices which he could render during our stay. These were +exhibited in the form of a beautiful bouquet for Lady Green, baskets +of limes and oranges, and great bunches of grapes. In this happy valley +there are cares as in the rest of the world. The Colonel told us he was +in the midst of a great litigation affecting his claim to a large tract +of land in which there are said to exist the richest tin-mines in the +American Continent. Yet why should he care about his tin-mine? There +were rolling acres rich with corn and fruit, and there were flocks and +herds and vineyards, and a charming home of his own. Nevertheless, if +the want of that tin-mine made him at all unhappy, I am sure those who +were indebted to him, as we were, for so many kindnesses, will wish his +claim to be triumphantly asserted, and long possession of all that is +to follow. + +I dreaded the passage of the Desert to Yuma; and indeed the heat was +intense. No wonder that with the thermometer ranging from 100 deg. to 104 deg., +all the blinds in the car were pulled down, and we sprawled listlessly +on the cushions. Our excellent attendants put forth all the resources +of art in the shape of ice and preparations of limes and cocktails; +but the temperature would not be baffled. We could just read, and were +aware that we were living, and some of us had strength enough now and +then to execute forays against flies with napkins to drive them out +of the carriages. How could people live out in the open, and work in +the mines, or pursue any out-of-door employment in such torrid heat? +Nevertheless, there was a marked distinction between it and the heat to +be endured with the mercury at an equal height in India. + +The speed of the train was very respectable--somewhat over twenty miles +an hour--and at that rate we ran from San Gorgonio and Banning on to +Cabazon, through a flat plain, dry and burnt up, very like the desert +around Suez, and fringed, like it, with rocky and rugged hills, save +that there was a great growth of Spanish bayonets and cactuses of all +kinds among the stones and sand, and that snow was to be seen on all +the hill-tops in the distance. For 107 miles there was no water to +be met with going along this plain; but the mirage, of which I have +spoken in the account of our journey to San Francisco, was frequent +and beautiful; and again I was fascinated by the sight of lovely lakes +embowered in trees, with stately cities on their shores, changing and +shifting and melting away, only again to assume apparent substance to +cheat the senses. + +Once the train stopped to allow the passengers to visit the +mud-geysers, which were not more than 150 yards on the left of the +line, and with commendable curiosity most of us got out and walked +over the baked earth to the spot. There was no mark whatever of smoke +or vapour to indicate the place; and it was almost startling to come +suddenly upon a kind of pond of semi-liquid mud, fifty or sixty feet +in diameter, on which huge bubbles, varying in size from an orange to +a hogshead, were continually forming and bursting. There was a faint +sulphurous smell, and the ground around the liquefied portion of the +surface, where the bubbles were breaking, was hot and cracked. The +conductor said that all attempts to reach the bottom of the holes +through which the bubbles arose had failed. Two of these geysers +were in active operation, and the plain away to the left of the rail +was said to contain a great number of them. After all it was very +unsatisfactory to see this ebullition going on without being able to +account for it; and, generally, I think we thought less of each other +and of our information after visiting them, and finding out that not +one of us had any theory on the subject which would bear either fire or +water. + +I do not think I ever saw a sunset more beautiful than that which +marked the close of this day--certainly not in India or South Africa, +nor on the prairie, for which they make claims of surpassing beauty in +the matter of sunsets. As it died out, I felt that "thing of beauty" +could not "be a joy for ever," for it was a combination of colour and +of form, including sky and mountain, that it would be impossible to see +again. + +The kindness of which we have had so many proofs, has followed, +accompanied, and preceded us all unremittingly and unweariedly. A +rough with some Bourbon on board mounted to-day the steps of the +car at a station, and insisted on seeing "this Duke." When he was +told that the object of his attention was engaged, he said, "This +is a land of liberty (as in his case it was), and he doesn't want a +bodyguard with him!" But the conductor sent him away about his business +without trouble. On the platform at Benson a few miners asked "the +Duke to come out and show himself." The people at the stations were +generally satisfied with a quiet peep; now and then an enthusiastic +Scotchman claimed a shake hands, which was always accorded to him. A +sleeper placed across the rails (accounted for by the officers on the +hypothesis that some loafer without a ticket had been turned off by the +conductor, and had put the sleeper in the way of the train to wreak +his vengeance--a thing which has occurred nearer home) was the only +substantial danger to which we were here exposed. + +The heat (June 13th) was intense. The thermometer rose to 105 at one +o'clock in the day, and it was little comfort to us to be told that at +Deming it had been up to 110 the day before. + +For some days we have been supping full of horrors, indeed +breakfasting and dining on them, for the papers contain accounts of +the extraordinary homicides all about this region. Tucson, Benson, +Wilcox--all these places were resounding with the exploits of "Billy +the Kid." Now at Tucson there is, I believe, a man whose name was once +amongst the very foremost in the United States. Who some twenty years +and more ago had not heard of General Fremont, "the Pathfinder," the +adventurous traveller, the energetic politician, the dashing soldier? +He had gone at the outbreak of the war to take up the chief command +in the west with all the pomp and circumstance of glorious war. I was +somewhat astonished to find that he was at Tucson, the governor of the +Territory, on a humble salary, apparently the world-forgetting and +the world-forgot, while "Billy-the-Kid" was perpetrating numberless +atrocities under his nose, and Mr. Pat Garrett was dressing up his +loins with his revolver-belt, and about to go forth with a chosen band +of citizens and seek the redoubtable William.[A] + +A person who has only seen settled States in Europe, or the Eastern +States of the North American Continent, cannot form any notion of a +territory which has become a centre of attraction to all the wild +adventurers and daring spirits which society, in the process of +formation, throws out as a sort of advanced guard. In Arizona, in +1870, according to the American Almanac, out of a total population +of 9658, 2729 could not write and 2690 could not read. Of the total +population, 2491 were foreign born, and 2753 were natives, the rest +being coloured or under ten years of age. In New Mexico, out of 91,000 +people, 48,000 over ten years of age could not read, and 51,000 whites +over ten years of age could not write. It may be inferred from such +figures what is the general condition of the labouring classes in these +States and Territories. The inhabitants of these States have doubled +in the last ten years. They are filling up at a rate inconceivably +great--so great, indeed, that American newspapers are fairly bewildered +and American statesmen appalled by the rush across the Rocky Mountains +and down the rivers, although as yet but a small proportion of the +immense stream of immigrants has flooded the outlying territories. "At +this rate," exclaims a Western editor, "the old monarchies of Europe +will soon be depopulated." When Mr. Lincoln, in 1861, addressed his +inaugural to the expectant States he expressed his confident belief +that there were children then born who would live to see the flag of +the Union floating over no less than 100,000,000 of human beings. The +recent census of the United States gives a return of 51,000,000 of +people, but the most eminent statisticians have arrived at the belief +that the progress and increase of the States will not be at the same +rapid rate as that which marked the history of the Republic since the +cessation of the great civil war. It may be fairly inferred, however, +that at the end of this century the population of the United States +will greatly exceed that of Russia, or that of any empire except +China and Great Britain, including Hindostan. The population, on +each period of ten years, has increased at an average of more than +30 per cent.; in fact, nearer 33 per cent., and the centre of it has +travelled westward at the rate of more than fifty miles every ten +years, till the centre of population is now eight miles west by south +from Cincinnati. In 1800 the Union extended over only 239,935 square +miles. Its flag now floats over 1,272,239 square miles of States and +over 1,800,000 square miles of Territory governed by the central power +at Washington. "We cannot think," exclaims a Republican writer, "that +the war of rebellion settled all our troubles and made us secure in +our Republic. This enormous growth of the practically unknown West +reveals to us the grave dangers that threaten our nation. We meet +there the tremendous influences of alien races and alien religions." +The Americans of New England and of the Eastern States do not feel +anxious on that score, because their institutions are thoroughly +founded, their character formed, and they trust to the great power of +accomplished facts to assimilate the alien elements and sustain the +fabric of the Republic. The bugbear of a great Chinese immigration +has ceased to practically influence Californian politics, and it may +be safely assumed that the bulk of the future immigrants from the +Celestial Empire will only come from the same sources as those which +have hitherto supplied the stream. No wonder, however, that thoughtful +Americans--and there are many who think of the future of their country +as something quite apart from dollars--are filled with grave anxieties +when they see such floods of purely foreign material, which will in +all probability exercise a preponderating influence over the politics +of the Great Republic, surging into the States. Particularly have the +home missionary clergy, as they are styled, been struck by the enormous +influence which this foreign immigration has exercised. According +to one authority, the Rev. Mr. Stimson, of Worcester, "it is not a +question of spreading any particular form of Christianity or of Church +government, but a momentous struggle of American institutions with +alien civilisations and religions for the control of the great Western +country. The problem is not a matter of cleaning door-yards, but of +saving a continent for freedom." The Chinese Question and the Indian +Question are, they think, as nothing compared with the Irish Question +and the German Question. "The Republic," we are told, "stands on a +foundation as broad as humanity itself," whatever that may mean, "but +its condition of existence is a universal regard for the interests of +all." Often during the course of the Duke of Sutherland's excursion +it was our good fortune to fall in with men of great political and +social knowledge. The future of the Republic is, in the mind of these +men, clouded with uncertainty and doubt. They are apprehensive of +some unknown danger. It may be corruption of political life leading +to want of faith in free institutions; it may be the rival energies +and the opposing interests which Washington foresaw as likely to array +the East against the West--the Atlantic States against the inland +States, and it is calculated by some sanguine people that before this +century is over there will be eighteen, or possibly twenty, States +admitted into the Union formed out of the Territories which are now +under the central Government at Washington. Upon such influences as +these alien immigration may be expected to act with prodigious power. +At a recent meeting in Springfield a clergyman gave as an illustration +of the absolute indifference of the foreign immigrants to Republican +institutions a conversation he had with a Norwegian minister in +Minneapolis. "There is nothing," said this gentleman, "in America which +we Norwegians regard as of value except your land and your money. We +do not want to learn English: we do not want to know the Americans +around us; we have certainly no notion of becoming Americans, but we +intend to remain as we are--Norwegians." The Mormons control Utah. They +boast that they will soon govern five of the most important territorial +regions beyond the Rockies. But if Utah becomes a State, as she hopes +to do, she will found a Mormon code of laws and institutions beyond the +power of the United States to control. New Mexico may be considered as +a Roman Catholic State under the control of an excellent archbishop. Of +course all prophecies may be falsified by events, but judging by the +eighty years which have elapsed of the present century, and from the +ratio of increase in that time in the United States, the most liberal +construction may be placed even upon the bounding estimates of American +politicians and statists. When we look to the Far West and see, for +instance, how Winnipeg has become the centre of a great network of +river navigation, 300 miles in one direction, 600 miles in another, +and that the Mackenzie River passes for 1200 miles through what is +declared to be the future wheat region of the world, we may easily +comprehend the anxiety with which the patriotic American is filled lest +the future of such a State should fall into hands antagonistic to the +principles in which his _beau ideal_ of government has been founded and +has prospered. + +_June 14._--At Lamy, a station named after the good archbishop of Santa +Fe, where we halted for a short time whilst the passengers of another +train were breakfasting, a citizen came up to me on the platform and +exclaimed, as if he were very much impressed by the news he was going +to give, "If you look in there, sir, you will see Bob Ingersoll at +breakfast!" I asked whether there was anything very remarkable about +the fact. "Well, sir," he said, "he is Colonel Ingersoll, of whom you +have heard. He is the most remarkable in-fidel in the United States, +and I really think he believes what he preaches. A good man to look at, +too, and, they say, first-rate in his family." I had a glance at the +believer in unbelief, and saw a very presentable-looking person, of +fine appearance and good features, busily engaged in making the most +of his time at one of the tables in the refreshment-room. He was the +observed of all observers, and appeared to like it; and I understood +from one of the crowd that he had just returned from inspecting some +mining ventures in which he was concerned; for, if he does not believe +in the world to come, he is credited with very strong faith in the +excellencies of the possession of wealth in the world that is. His +lectures are attended by crowded audiences, but, as an astute American +observed, "they won't come to much, for, after all, people who do +not believe anything can never get up a great enthusiasm. It is in +believing something that the populace has faith." + +Once more our eyes were rejoiced with the sight of the lovely plains +of Las Vegas, wide-spreading fields decked with flowers and dotted with +flocks, bordered with ranges of softly contoured mountains, the courses +of the water streams indicated by bright vegetation and by growth of +trees of many kinds. From Lamy (170 miles) there is a gradual rise to +Raton, which we reached at 6.30 in the evening. The appearance of the +region we traverse as the train approaches the Raton Pass presents +a strong contrast to the desolate country through which we have been +passing. From Raton the train was drawn by two engines in front and +shoved by one behind, and even then the pace was not very rapid, for +the ascent is very sharp. All the more could we enjoy a very glorious +sunset, as we slowly ascended the mountain. Then darkness came on +rapidly, and we slid down towards La Junta into the night, and were all +fast asleep long before we arrived there. In the very early morning, +on June 15th, some two hours after midnight, we halted for a time at +Pueblo. At 9 o'clock we had to leave our beloved Pullman and change the +cars, for we were to take a fresh point of departure, starting from +the Union Depot upon the Denver and Rio Grande narrow-gauge railway +for Denver, 119 miles distant, and making an excursion on the way to +Manitou, to which we diverged from Colorado Springs: for to go within +reach of that famous resort and not to see it would have been a great +outrage on all the rules and regulations established for the observance +of travellers. Certes narrow-gauge railways need an apology. Their +_raison d'etre_ is, at the best, that they are better than nothing. +"If you won't have us, you can have nothing else." And in such a +mountainous region as we were about to visit, the difficulties and +expense connected with a broad-gauge line would have been enormous, +if indeed it could be constructed at all. The narrow-gauge carriages, +with seats to match, with which we were made acquainted for the first +time, were of course much less commodious and comfortable than those +we had quitted, but far superior to those on the Indian lines of the +same gauge, and Indian engineers had been over to take a lesson from +the Americans for the use of their carriage-builders. Atchison, Topeka, +and Santa Fe Company and Denver and Rio Grande Company have been at +daggers drawn and pistols cocked--ay, and fired--and at battles waged, +in times gone by; and now our friends on the former line were, like +ourselves, the guests of the latter, which was represented by several +official gentlemen anxious to do the honours to the Duke. The scenery +becomes grander and wilder every mile as the special hurries on as +well as it can over the sinuous line, which is piercing a mountain +region savage and sterile, and climbing by the sides of ravines and +creeping upwards in rocky valleys with pine-clad hill-tops and frowning +cliffs above. The engineer who designed the line is a Scotchman named +McMurtrie--or at least of recent Scotch origin--and he seems to have a +special gift for such aspiring work, and a gradient-compelling genius +not to be baffled by altitudes. We were mounting towards the snows. +Range upon range of whitened summits and hoary ridges came in view, +all paying homage to the rugged crown of Pike's Peak, which can be +seen from points more than 140 miles away. The fleecy cloudland which +seemed to lie before us, as we looked away from Pueblo, was resolving +itself into savage alps. And in these passes, which the eye caught for +a moment, there might be El Dorados still undiscovered, for around us +were cities springing out of the desert. Here the enchanter's wand is +the explorer's pick, and no one could say where the precious ore might +not be awaiting its touch. We were coming to the Land of Promises. The +conversation of our new friends, among whom were some gentlemen of the +press, related mostly to mines, and one of them had, as we discovered, +a very certain investment at the disposal of the Duke, in the form of a +mining-claim, which was worth, at the lowest computation, twice as much +as he was willing to take for it. There was no reason to doubt his good +faith, but it was felt that it was a kind of fortune which ought not to +pass into the hands of strangers, and should be reserved for the people +of the country; and I am sure all of the party who had the pleasure of +the owner's acquaintance hope that he has "made his pile" out of it, +and has more than realised his expectations. + +Colorado Springs, forty-five miles from Pueblo, is nearly 6000 feet +above the level of the sea. The character of the line to it is best +described in the fact that the average grade per mile is 44.14, the +maximum curvature 6 deg. There are "no Springs" here, but the little town, +charmingly situated, is a halting-place much frequented in tourist-time +by travellers, and reputed to be healthful. There are some pleasant +houses visible from the station, at which we descended to take our +places in the carriages provided to take us to Manitou Springs, five +miles away. Mr. Palmer--if General, I beg his pardon--the President of +the Railroad, had important business to attend to, but he was so well +represented by Mr. Bell, the Vice-President, that no one regretted his +absence, and it cannot be said in his case _les absents ont toujours +tort_. He is reported to have made a very large fortune with much +ingenuity, and to have business talents which even in this country +excite admiration. Mr. Bell is an Irish gentleman, a member of the +medical profession, who has a delightful villa embowered in a garden +in the environs of Manitou, where the Duke and his friends found a +charming interior and an Irish-American welcome, and discovered that +strawberries and cream were almost as good in Colorado as in Covent +Garden. A quaint, odd place, Manitou--an American Martigny, with +Pike's Peak rising (14,300 feet above the sea) over it in the clear +sky, inspiring regret that we could not make the excursion to the +summit, which is rewarded, we were told, and I can believe, by one of +the grandest views in the world--the usual service of guides, horses, +and mules, and _caleches_--a naturalist's store with skins, minerals, +feathers, and stuffed "objects"--detached wooden houses and villas +in small plots of garden--a straggling street, and large hotels for +invalids. But there was the unusual feature of encampments here and +there by the roadside, and notices forbidding the pitching of tents +within certain limits which were explained by the fact that the high +reputation of the waters and air induces people to come from great +distances for the treatment of consumption, and diseases of throat and +lungs. Many of them find it cheaper to travel in horse waggons and +pitch their canvas dwellings when they wish to make a halt, than to +take up their quarters at hotels. Poor people! what pale, hectic cheeks +and wasted forms we saw; little groups picnicking by the sides of the +rivulets along the roads--each with a gnawing care--anxiety about some +dear one's health in the midst of them. Our driver, an intelligent, +chatty lad, was full of information, and we had to drive the prescribed +road by the wells out to the Ute Pass, a mountain-gorge wild enough--a +small _Tete Noire_--to points to which magniloquent names have been +given. + +It is not for want of what is called puffing that Americans neglect +the resorts of health of their own country, and in the States far and +wide the beauties and advantages of Manitou are blazoned forth on the +walls of hotels and in guide-books to all who can read. I may confess +now that, notwithstanding the magnificent altitude of Pike's Peak, and +the eccentric forms of the rocks in the "Garden of the Gods," I was +disappointed with Manitou. But then the visit was short, and the day +was hot, and the way was long and dusty, and haply it might be that +under different circumstances Manitou would deserve much warmer praise. +It possesses indeed an abundance of curious springs, said to be full +of health-giving properties; and in the course of our drive we halted +several times to partake of drinks from various springs, out of one of +which bubbled up very good soda-water, precisely like Schweppe's best +in taste and appearance. At the large hotel, which put one in mind of +the great establishments of the same sort in Switzerland, the water +served at table to the guests--a sort of pleasant Apollinaris-tasting +beverage--came from a natural fountain. + +The "cataract" nearly made us angry, and there was no regret felt when +the carriages returned to the hotel, where there was unwonted activity +and bustle, as the "Denver Zouaves" had just descended in a friendly +razzia on it, and were desolating the hearts and fireside resources of +Manitou. The consequences might have been serious, as it turned out, +to unoffending strangers. Those who needed it turned into the barber's +shop of the hotel to be shaved, and after some delay a coloured man +appeared, who began to try his hand on me. Fortunately it was not +'prentice, for it was very unsteady, and I became a little alarmed +for my cuticle. "It will be all right, mister," quoth the barber. "I +never cut any one. But I'm demoralised, dat's a fact, having to wait +on dem Denver Zouaves. Lor a messy on any enemy dey has! My nerve's +all gone to pieces wid their wantin' everting at once at the dinner!" +The hotel seemed far more clean and comfortable than the caravanserais +in the land of William Tell; but our stay was short, for we were put +under orders for a sight which has the most inappropriate name that +could be invented--a valley in which the most extraordinary-looking +columns carved out in a plateau by the agency of water, have been +left standing, detached and in groups, to which the visitor enters +through a cleft in a barrier of rock passing round the base of a pillar +of sandstone as high as a house. The "Garden of the Gods" contains +500 acres, and is surrounded by mountains and cliffs. The sandstone +pillars generally taper from the base upwards to a short distance from +the tops, which are flattened out or surmounted by slabs or blocks of +sandstone of fantastic outline, and they are called by names derived +from fancied likenesses to animals, birds, and men. The juxtaposition +of the most brilliantly hued, dazzling-red blocks and strata, with +masses of the same material of milky whiteness, gives the impression +that the scene is the work of human hands; it seems too quaint and +artificial for the hand of Nature, to which alone it is due; and the +vegetation and the trees are in keeping with the character of the +place. A trysting-place for geologists, and their happy hunting-ground, +no doubt. But why "the Garden of the Gods," I pray? + +From the valley or cup, emerging by another road, the driver took us to +a ravine-like recess, almost girt in by high wooded mountains, in which +Mr. (General?) Palmer is erecting a mansion of palatial importance--a +picturesque site surely--cliffs, forests, and mountain all around, and +in view one most singular sandstone pillar, named the Major Domo, 120 +feet high and only 30 feet round--a mountain stream brawling through +tangled brushwood glades--a garden. But the heat! That must prove a +terror by day to the inmates of Glen Eyrie Lodge or Castle--which, by +the by, was named, as one of us insisted, from a collection of rubbish +on a ledge in the face of one of the cliffs, which was, he maintained, +the nest of an eagle. It was now time to return to our train, and we +were not sorry to get back to Colorado Springs. + +From Colorado Springs to our destination at Denver there were still 75 +miles of rail, and the line continued to ascend till we reached Divide +(7186 feet), whence there was a gentle descent. There were sixteen +stations named on the time-table. We stopped at very few of them, +and travelled somewhat too fast to permit our placid enjoyment of the +scenery, austere and vast, which indeed deserved more attention than +could be given to it by passengers in a very lively train--endless +alps on alps, not sheeted with perpetual white, but rather flecked +with snowfields, which contrasted finely with the sombre pine-forests, +and the rich hues of the rocks, touched by the rays of the setting +sun, that, ere it slid behind the mountains, cast a rose-coloured +mantle on their summit. The evidences of a bustling city were not +wanting in the approaches to the capital of Colorado. There were tall +chimneys vomiting out smoke in the distance, and near at hand trains +of waggons were toiling over the dusty plain--still 5000 feet above +the sea-level--fast trotters and people on horseback, beer-gardens, +factories of all kinds, brick-kilns, and then a fringe of log houses +and wooden shanties, before the train stopped at the imposing and +substantial depot. + +It was a quarter-past eight, nearly dark, when we reached Denver, +and glad were we to get into the hall of the Windsor Hotel, which was +crowded with a mixed multitude--miners, and speculators, and traders, +and some travellers like ourselves--a very busy scene indeed. In the +hotel were all human comforts nearly; hot and cold baths, and good +rooms, and more appliances of civilised existence, for those who could +pay for them, than could be found in many hostelries of approved +reputation in venerable towns at home; moreover, exuberant offers +of help and information. One goes to bed laden with obligations and +heavy with the sense of favours which can never be repaid. There was +now a _soupcon_ of frost in the air, and notwithstanding the heat +which we had endured the greater part of the day, fires were not +ungrateful; and as we peered out of our windows over the roofs of the +wide-spread houses of the town, we could see the snow on the lofty +ranges of hills, watered by the South Platte River and Cherry Creek, +which surround the cup in which Denver has been built in obedience +to the impulses of the increasing population, which now numbers, I +believe, 38,000 souls. There was a bright glare from the gas-lighted +streets, sounds of music, and a tumult of life in the town which +would have been creditable to an ancient metropolis. In the morning +from the hotel windows appeared a beautiful and widespread panorama +of the hills we had seen the evening before, peak above peak, none +very densely covered perhaps, or presenting continuous snowfields, but +extending in billowy sweeps far away to the horizon, all capped with +snow, now bathed in a flood of fervent sunshine, the snow lighted up +by the peculiar crimson tints common in Alpine regions. There were +duties in the way of sight-seeing and exploration of no ordinary +nature to be done. First there were interviews and receptions, and the +inevitable drive through the place as soon as the ordeal of breakfast +was over; and ordeal in some sort it was for the strangers to file +in to the public room and take their places at their table, aware +that the morning papers had subjected them to exhaustive criticism, +which was being verified by those around us. The morning papers too +had given some topics for reflection, indications that in the newly +created capital of Colorado desperate men, overtaken by the march of +law and order, had refused to accept service, and were vindicating +their rights as wild western outcasts to take or part with life as +of yore, in reckless encounters and deliberate assassinations. There +were, perhaps, at that moment some hundreds, if not thousands, out of +the population of 37,000 or 38,000 of the city, who belonged to the +adventurous classes--sporting-men, betting-men, ring-men, bar-keepers, +hell-proprietors, and their satellites, and the scum of the saloons +attracted from the great cities of the States for hundreds of miles, +by the prey which miners with belts full of gold, half mad with drink, +and always fond of excitement, frequently are; and if to these be added +the dissolute loafers and broken-down mining speculators, the strength +of the army arrayed against the law may be estimated; and the wonder is +that among a population armed to the teeth there are not more cases of +such violent deeds as we were reading of at breakfast. To the stranger +there was no evidence of the existence of these disturbing elements, +unless the bearded and booted men with speculation in their eyes, +in the hotel passages and halls, belonged to the dangerous, as they +certainly did to the mining, classes. As to the resources of the city, +although for rapidity of growth its wonders may be eclipsed by those of +Leadville, Denver claims a very high place in the catalogue of these +marvellous fungi of civilisation, of which the Western States present +almost unique examples. There is everything that any one can want to be +had for money in the place, and much more than most people need. Paris +fashions and millinery are in vogue. There are fine shops, handsome +churches, a theatre, breweries, factories, banks, insurance offices. + +The principal street exhibits pretty young people, who would have +no occasion to fear comparison with the _beau monde_ in Eastern +or European capitals. The thoroughfares are crowded with vehicles, +and spruce carriages and well turned-out horses may be seen in the +favourite drive, that has been made over an indifferent road to the +base of the Rocky Mountains, which appear to be close at hand, though +they are thirteen miles away. But here and there in the well-dressed +crowd may be seen a Bohemian _pur sang_, or a miner in his every day +clothes, bent on a rig out and a good time of it. The streets, unpaved, +dusty, and rugged, are very wide, and bordered with trees, and the +houses generally are built of good red brick instead of wood; and +there are runnels of water like those one sees in Pretoria and other +Dutch towns in South Africa. The roads about the city leave much to be +desired; but Rome was not built in a day. + +There are many ready-made clothing establishments in the main streets, +and there is a heavy trade in tinned provisions. Through the Western +States, as in South Africa, the debris of provision-tins constitutes +a certain and considerable addition to the objects to be seen in the +vicinity of every house, and to the mounds of rubbish in the street of +every village. How indeed could the first-comers in such regions keep +body and soul together without the supplies in such a portable form +of the first necessaries of life? Having once run up a town in these +remote wastes, the inhabitants are still compelled to make a liberal +use of the same sort of food, and mines of tinned iron gradually +accumulate around them. + +Our first excursion was to the Argo Works, under very pleasant +auspices, for we had the wife of the Senator, who is one of the +principal partners, and Mrs. Pearce, whose husband is largely +interested in the works, taking charge of us. The works are at some +distance outside the town, but the lofty chimneys vomit out quite +sufficient vaporous fumes and smoke to blight the vegetation and to +give the people near at hand a taste of their quality. I am not going +to give a minute description, for more reasons than one, of what we saw +at the works; but it was a very interesting exhibition of the processes +by which the precious metals are extracted from the ores and delivered +to commerce. The Argo Works simply assay and reduce ores on commission, +but the business is on a very large scale. Immense piles, in fact small +mountains, of brown, cinnamon and earth coloured dust and rock were +heaped up in the sheds, to be brought to the furnaces and turned, when +divested of the lead, iron, copper, and gold, out in ingots of silver. +All the methods for the extraction of silver were shown to us, but +I committed a gross indiscretion when I asked, in my ignorance, "How +do you extract the gold?" "That," said the urbane gentleman who was +conducting us over the works, "we never permit strangers to see." So +there is more there than meets the eye. + +The business of assaying here must be profitable, and if the reputation +of any firm be once established there is a secure fortune for its +members. The miners flock to them, and they can dictate terms. The +extent of mining work in the country around may be inferred from the +numerous offices in connection with it in the city. As a specimen +of what Messrs. Bush and Tabor of our hotel give their guests for +dinner, let me offer you this _menu_ of the 5.30 ordinary to-day +(June 16). Soup, beef a l'Anglaise; fish, boiled trout, anchovy sauce; +corned beef, leg of mutton, sirloin beef, chickens with giblet sauce, +fricassee a la Toulouse, veal, kidneys sautes aux croutons, rice, +croquettes, baked pork and beans, saddle of antelope, currant jelly, +lamb, tongue, chicken salad, spiced salmon; innumerable "relishes" and +vegetables, baked rice pudding, strawberry pie, apricot pie, jelly, +blancmange, vanilla ice cream, macaroons, pound cake, fruit, Swiss +cheese, nuts, coffee, &c. The wines were not cheap: champagne 16_s._ a +bottle, St. Julien 6_s._, Leoville 14_s._, sherry 8_s._, brandy 14_s._ +per bottle. Orders for "drinks" at the bar after dinner were much more +general than orders for wine at dinner. + +Denver, in spite of its mineral wealth, is very poor, however, in +that of which the want would make life, even in America, intolerable. +The supply of drinking-water is scanty and bad, and last year there +was nearly a water famine. The _cartes_ in the hotel announced "Water +used in this room is boiled and filtered." But great efforts have been +made to furnish the inhabitants with a store, constant and adequate, +of the precious fluid, and we saw very considerable works, the +property of an Irish gentleman, erected before the town attained its +present dimensions, which were to be supplemented by a new enterprise +respecting which we heard much. Perhaps no town of equal size in an +equal length of time has ever had so much money and money's worth +flowing in and through it as Denver since the Colorado mines were +worked. It is asserted that the trade of the town for 1881 will exceed +8,000,000_l._ Colorado in 1879 yielded ores to the value of more than +3,750,000_l._ The output in the present year will exceed that of 1880. +In that year $35,417,517 worth of gold and $20,183,889 of silver (more +than 11,000,000_l._) was deposited in the United States Mint and Assay +Office. There is, besides, vast wealth in flocks and herds, and Denver +is the place where the people resort from Colorado for purposes of +trade and pleasure; altogether an astounding place, with a future quite +dazzling to think of, unless the mines give in, and even then Colorado +cannot again be poor; its climate and scenery will always attract +travellers, and its capacity for feeding sheep and cattle will secure +its population. "And as to the beetle?" Why, no one would have anything +to say to it. Nothing was known of it. There might be such things in +other States. "And the name?" Probably it was a red-coloured bug, and +got the name Colorado just as the river, or tobacco, was called, from +the hue of it. At all events the bug did not belong to the State. + +The interest which the progress of Colorado and the condition of +society in the State excite was exemplified by the appearance in +Denver of a party of Hungarian noblemen, whose names gave occasion +for stumbling to the journalists who copied them out of the Hotel +Register--Count Andrassy and others, who were travelling under the +guidance of Dr. Rudolf Meyer, of Vienna. Although the air of Denver +is so much bepraised, it happens that most of our party felt rather +overcome at the end of our excursion through the town and the visit +to the smelting works, and one of the Hungarians was confined to his +room. However, they sallied out before dinner, and a gloomy prophet +of evil remarked, "If these strangers should have a difficulty, I +consider they'll hev only theirselves to blame. Some citizens don't +like strangers comin' in and starin' at them, and they're apt to be +awkward in their tempers in the afternoon." Knowing no danger, and +fearing none, they went off, and were a long time absent. Meantime we +were preparing for the road, as we were bound for Leadville, the city +of the "biggest boom" of mining times--"the Silver El Dorado," as the +guide-book, with a magnificent "bull," describes it. Our Hungarian +friends returned to the hotel ere we left. They were filled with +enthusiasm, and with a good deal also of curiosity in regard to the +shootings of which they had heard so much, and were following in our +track next day, and so we parted _sans adieux_. How the love of gold +has filled these lone valleys with desperate men! "They are a rough +lot, sure enough," said the landlord, "but lynching keeps them down; +and it is much better than hanging according to law, to my mind. It +certainly is cheaper." "How is it cheaper?" "Why," said he, "when a man +is prosecuted, or when he is tried before the judges, the law expenses +are heavy, and they fall on the county. When a man is lynched there is +only the expense of the rope, and a little loss of time for the boys +who do the job." From Denver to Pueblo and from Pueblo to Leadville +the line is on the narrow-gauge principle, and our train, which left +at seven o'clock in the evening, seemed to be driven on no principle at +all; for, anxious to astonish a Duke perhaps, or Britishers generally, +the driver did what certainly could not be called his level best to +send us along up and down a very rough line, and round the sharpest +curves, at the rate of forty miles an hour, so that when we turned +in, our rest, if rest at all it were, was exceedingly broken, and +we trundled about in our berths as if we were in a ship in a pretty +heavy sea. Still this narrow-gauge was the only line which could be +made through such a country as we were traversing. Peeps out of the +window ever and anon revealed, high up amongst the stars, rugged +mountain-tops, and for ever there came the sound of rushing water, +near or remote, as the train "bounded" on its course. I do not know +what stations we passed on our way, but the night was very long, and +I greeted with pleasure the first gleam of light above the hill-tops. +The Arkansas River was on our left, and at dawn we had glimpses of +its turbid stream running madly in deep gorges far below us. At the +South Arkansas station the train halted soon after daybreak, and then +we diverged from the main line, and a light train took us over the +Arkansas River by a fine bridge on its way up the Gunnison Extension +to visit the highest mountain-pass traversed by a railway in the +world. South Arkansas station is 217 miles from Denver, and is 6944 +feet--and Marshall Pass (25 miles away), to which we were bound, is +10,760 feet--above sea-level. There were grades of 211 and curves of +24 deg. on the way, and the railroad twisted in and out among the ravines +like an iron Alexandrine, for ever ascending till we had passed the +limits of forest life. There were stations at short intervals--Poncha +Springs, Mears, Silver Creek--from each other. From the stations there +is a good deal of cross-country traffic, and at one place we saw three +stages laden with men and women--or rather, to be polite and accurate, +let me say with women and ladies--starting, one with six horses, and +the other two with four each. These were bound for Gunnison, and as +we were halting for a little, the Duke and some others got out of the +train, and sauntered up towards the wooden shanties which formed "the +town," consisting of the usual array of saloons and drinking places. +However, our course was cut short by the information vouchsafed by one +of the officials, that it might be as well not to go up, as there had +been a big shooting match that morning, and that one man was killed +and four had been wounded, "and some of them were on the drink yet." +From 4.30 A.M. to 6.45 A.M. we struggled up towards the pass till +the line came to an end near the summit, and we were rewarded by some +very fine views, exceedingly like those of the Mont Cenis Railway or +the Soemmering. The hills on both sides of the line were stippled and +flaked with snow, but there was no extensive field, so far as the eye +could see, nor was there any appearance whatever of a glacier, the tops +generally being clear of snow, which only lodged in the ravines and +hollows. Strange it was in these alpine heights to hear the clang of +Italian tongues; but most of the navvies were from Italy, and if not +quite so strong as English or Americans, they were in more favour with +contractors, because they did more work, owing to their steadiness and +sobriety. The line was being pushed on at an astonishing rate, and one +man was pointed out to us who had laid four and a half miles of railway +in one day, "the biggest thing of the kind ever done." Our enjoyment +of the scenery was very much diminished by our animal appetites, +stimulated by the sharp mountain air, which craved incessantly for +food. But not even a cup of coffee was to be had until we got back to +the South Arkansas station, late in the morning, where an excellent +breakfast awaited us. Here we were detained some time by a derailment +of an engine in front. + +From South Arkansas station to Leadville (61 miles) the railroad is +still more aspiring. The higher we ascend the less striking are the +scenic effects, but the grades are not very severe till we come to +Malta, where it reaches 130; from Hilliers to Leadville the maximum is +176, the curves being often 15 deg. The general character of the country +may be conceived from these figures, but no words can convey any idea +of the wholesale destruction of timber which has marked the progress +of the explorers and prospectors. Where the axe was weary the blaze +and the fire were called in, and hundreds of miles of forest are laid +in blackened ruin. At last we are on a level with the hill-tops. +There, on the hill-tops and in the valleys of a sterile region in +front of you, amidst those tall chimneys vomiting out smoke and steam, +is a wilderness of wooden huts, "the Great Carbonate Camp"--where we +leave the train--spread out over an undulating plateau, broken into +mound-like hills and sharp hillocks--bustling streets filled with the +most remarkable swarm of all nations that ever settled on any one spot +in the world. The story of Leadville reads like a chapter out of some +book of Oriental fable. It is a huge barrack of wooden houses, with +some solid and important buildings, with masses of tree-stumps cropping +up in the centre of the main thoroughfares, pitched over an undulating, +rugged, dusty ledge. In the midst of blocks of houses sprout up the +chimneys of furnaces and mining works, the clang of machinery fills +the air, which is thick with clouds of dust. It was a few years ago an +utterly wild, lifeless waste amidst the mountains covered with forests, +when three brothers, named Gallagher, exploring from California, were +led by some genius, good or bad, to test the material of the rocks in +the ravine. They struck gold ore, and silver too, and they set up a +claim; and presently they sold their shares in the land which they had +appropriated, for 40,000_l._, which they divided. Two used their wealth +wisely, and made more of it, and, taking to themselves the members of +the family, throve exceedingly; one, not so wise, if he were quite as +good, did not prosper as well as his brothers. But the scene of their +operations was soon swarming with enterprising miners. There was a +mighty "boom." Now there is a city! Leadville is, I think, the most +astonishing city on earth, but I am not by any means inclined to say +that it is a place I should like to be astonished about for more than +a few hours. + +The party drove to the Morning Star, said to be the best mine in +Leadville; and the Duke, Lady Green, Sir Henry Green, and others, went +down the mine in miners' clothes or cloaks. Two others, whose names I +shall not give, remained above, and had, I fancy, the best of the time. +Afterwards we visited Grant's Smelting Works, and then back to the +Clarence Hotel and dined, strolling out afterwards through the town and +visiting the billiard saloons, the Grand Central Theatre, and finally, +where we were told Leadville life was to be seen in all its glory, the +faro and the kino tables, which, however, were doing but very little +business, as it was not until after midnight that play in the town +generally commenced. Instead of sleeping at the hotel, we resolved +to take refuge in the train, which was drawn up at the siding; and we +had to drive in order to reach it, as it was considered unsafe to walk +through the streets in the dark. + +We started at four o'clock next morning, June 18th, and on arriving +at Arkansas Station learned that an engine was off the line in front +of us. Breakdown gangs were sent for, and all the locomotive talent +amongst our passengers repaired quickly to the scene. As it was not +easy to lift the engine, the engineers adopted the expedient of laying +a temporary rail to turn its flank so as to enable us to pass round +it, which we did after a delay of about an hour. The Duke got out and +sat on the cow-catcher by way of a change. But the interest we took in +the scenery was somewhat diminished by the intelligence that the delay +caused by the engine would prevent our enjoying the "soda bath" we had +been promised at Canyon City, and the sight of the State Prison, where +murderers were to be paraded by the dozen. About twenty miles north +of the Grand Canyon, the gorges through which the river runs became +wider and deeper. All that has been written about the Grand Canyon +utterly fails to convey an adequate idea of its exceeding grandeur +and wildness. The rocks--closing in so that the spectator in the car, +looking forward, thinks the progress of the train must be arrested, +and that it is not possible for it to get out of the _cul de sac_ which +appears in front, rising aloft for upwards of two thousand five hundred +feet on each side--are coloured with the brightest hues, and present an +infinite variety of form. The impetuous current of the Arkansas River, +contracted at times to the breadth of some twenty or thirty yards, +and penned into a space in which the waters boil and toss as if about +to leap on and submerge the passing cars, roars wildly down below on +our right at a depth varying as the line rises and falls. But it is +at the Bridge--a triumph of engineering skill--that the horrors of +the pass culminate. The sides of the ravine approach so near that the +daring engineer was enabled to execute the idea of lowering from above +a [**triangle]-shaped frame or trestle of iron; and, the ends catching +on each side of the gorge, permitted him to work on it for the +construction of the iron platform over which the train is carried at a +height of some hundreds of feet right over the maddened river. You can +look down through the interstices of the girders and glance shudderingly +at the hell of waters below--a sight and sensation never to be +forgotten. The ravine gradually expands and the cliffs recede as the +line strikes eastwards; and though the scenery retains a wild and +savage character for many miles farther, the impressions of the Grand +Canyon caused us to regard it with comparative indifference. We heard +many tales of the great railway war which was waged for the possession +of the pass, of which traces still remained in the ruins of posts of +vantage and observation, and the works of the defeated railroad +visible on the other side of the ravine. At night we reached Pueblo +and took up our quarters in our own cars, and continued our journey, +after some delay, towards Kansas City. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +KANSAS TO ST. LOUIS. + + Liquor Law--Kansas Academy of Science--An Incident of Travel--A + Parting Symposium--Life in the Cars--St. Louis to New York. + + +_June 19th._--Still on the rolling prairies; in the country of +compulsory abstinence--the paradise of Sir Wilfred Lawson. At 9.30 +A.M. the train stopped at Newton, 431 miles from Pueblo, and 281 from +Kansas. + +Here a phenomenon--there was a man by the road side who walked with +unsteady step, whose legs tottered, and who lurched violently as he +came down the road at that early hour. "He is a sick man," observed +one of my friends in the train; "that gentleman has been taking +_medicine_." In the Kansas Act there is a clause enabling physicians, +in case of need, to order stimulants for the patients without penalty; +but I am told the doctors have generally refused to act upon that +permission, so I suppose our friend had been consulting an unlicensed +practitioner. + +It would be ill done, when I am anxious to acknowledge the pleasure +and profit which I derived from my passage through the State, if I +did not record the satisfaction with which I perused a volume of the +"Transactions of the Kansas Academy of Science," which by accident I +picked up at one of the stations. The very name speaks trumpet-tongued +for the progress which has been made in this wild region. The year +before last, the twelfth annual meeting of the Academy was held in +Topeka, and I find amongst the list of papers read such subjects +as these:--The Kansas Lepidoptera; Kansas Minerals; the Mounds of +Southern Kansas; Recent additions to Kansas Plants; Kansas Botany; +Kansas Meteorites; Phonetic representations of Indian Language; +Sinkholes; Elementary Sounds of Language; Mound-builders; On Recent +Indian Discoveries. And among the lecturers there was Professor B. +F. Mudge, who died last year, whose name probably is known to a very +limited number of scientific men outside the University of Kansas. +Generally the papers contributed by the gentlemen of the State attest +industry and attainments which make their praise of the Professor +particularly valuable. It is curious enough to pick up in a railway +carriage, traversing such a scene of comparative wildness and vast +uninhabited plains in Western Kansas, an exceedingly interesting +examination of the Helmholtz theories of sight. The object of the +lecturer would scarcely be suspected by the reader. We had already +been struck by the extraordinary absence of signalmen, or of any +of the complex apparatus of men and machinery which may be seen in +Europe, and notably in England, to report the progress of trains +on the lines. Collisions, however, occur in America where these +precautions are not taken, and the lecturer attributed a good deal of +these accidents to colour-blindness, which appears to have attracted +considerable attention in the United States. Surgeons, pilots, &c., +are tested for colour, and in the army colour-blindness disqualifies +the recruit for employment in the signal corps. Altogether the papers +give an impression that in this new State there are diligent students +of natural history and physics, and profound inquirers into all the +phenomena of life. There was a reverse to the medal. + +At a station where the train halted beyond Pueblo, a card was handed +to me by one of the stewards. "The gentleman is, as he seemed very +pressing, outside; but I told him you were engaged." I started +as I read the name and address on the card, as well I might. They +indicated that an old friend whom I had left in a condition of great +bodily weakness and infirmity in London, was close at hand in this +remote region--a wonderful if welcome fly in amber. I ran out of the +drawing-room into the next car, and there saw a man, agitated and +travel-worn, whom I had never, to the best of my belief, seen in my +life before. His story was told, if not soon, at least in time to +let me partly understand the situation ere the train moved off. The +stranger had been in the service of the gentleman whose card he sent in +to me, but had left it to better himself in America, and had gone out +as valet to an American of good position at Colorado Springs. He found, +however, according to his own account, that he was expected to do +things not required of a valet in his own country, such as lumbering, +wood-cutting, and the like, and so he had thrown up his situation +and was going back to England. He had had quite enough of Colorado +Springs. "I was not there above a month, and I was shot at twice," he +said. "Once because I made some remark in a bar-room, where a chap was +abusing Englishmen; and another time while I was speaking in the street +to a man a fellow had a grudge against. He fired at him across the +road, and the ball whistled within a hair's-breadth of my head." He had +arrived at Pueblo some time before our special, and as the morning was +warm, he walked into a bar near the platform, while the engine of his +train was watering, to get a glass of lemonade. As he was drinking it, +a man walked in and called for a glass of whisky, putting down, at the +same time, what seemed to be a bank note, on the counter. The boniface +said, "I haven't got change for this twenty-dollar bill--perhaps this +gentleman can oblige you." The unsuspecting Briton, who had put the +money for his passage to Liverpool in a purse, drew it out to change +the note, and the strange customer at once seized it from his hand, +and rushed off towards the street with his booty. The Britisher ran +after him, but checked his wild career when he saw, within an inch of +his head, the muzzle of a revolver which the robber had drawn, and the +fellow vanished. "Won't you help me to stop the thief; you see what has +happened?" exclaimed the victim turning to the barman. "I guess there +was no money in that purse, sir. And if there was, perhaps you had no +more right to it than he had." Then the Briton dashed off after Don +Guzman, shouting "police," and was at once accosted by an officer of +the Pueblo force. He hurriedly stated the facts. The policeman smiled. +"I think you won't see that pile agin," he remarked; "and if you +don't look sharp ye'll miss yer train, that's a fact!" The man had his +railway ticket all right, a few dollars in his pocket, and I told him +I would see him and get him a passage, if I found on inquiry his story +was true. My companions thought the tale suspicious--but I believe it +was true, and I subsequently franked the man to England. + +Now here we had an exemplification of the manners and customs of +the district. Such an act of violence and robbery might occur in +London--anywhere. But what of the apathy, or perhaps complicity, of the +bar man? And if it or they be considered not altogether abnormal, is +the conduct of the policeman to be accepted as quite consistent with +the discharge of a policeman's duty? Well, whilst I was pondering on +these things, there came to me the best possible adviser--a judge in +this Israel--our excellent Palinurus, Mr. White. He threw a new, if not +a side light on the subject. "Depend on it he is a confidence man. The +trains are full of them! Our conductors have express orders about the +rascals." And he explained that a confidence man is a swindler--very +often an Englishman, who makes it his business to look out for unwary +strangers, on whom he imposes with some tale of distress, or some +recital of imaginary misfortune and adventure. As the man I had seen +was coming on in the train in our wake, Mr. White promised to talk with +the conductor, and find out, if he could, the truth about the Pueblo +robbery. Before dusk a telegram was forwarded by him to me from the +station where he left us, to say that the conductor had no doubt the +man was robbed, but that it was partly his own fault, and to warn me to +be cautious in my dealings with him. + +We have now been travelling straight on end for 1160 miles, with only +two engineers and two firemen and one engine, a feat of endurance +which has greatly exercised the Duke of Sutherland, who, as a practical +director of the London and North-Western Railway, has knowledge of such +matters, and who contrasts the performance with the experience he has +on the home lines, where engines, engineers, and firemen would have +been relieved or laid up over and over again. The head engineer of the +line, who joined us, Mr. Hackney, formerly of Congleton, had become +accustomed to these journeyings and endurances, which were brought to +the front in our conversation by the engine-driver appearing at the +door of the carriage to claim a dollar which he had won from the Duke +in a bet that he could not do the distance without laying up the engine +for repairs. + +All the long Sabbath-day we travelled on through the prairie, catching +glimpses now and then of wooden villages, around which trees were +beginning to sprout up, and of the little churches with knots of carts, +waggons, horses, and buggies outside, and people waiting for the end +of the sermon. Now and then, perhaps at intervals of fifteen miles or +so, are places of larger importance, such as Emporia, a rising city on +the plains, where many steeples pointed aloft indicated considerable +diversity of creed. An authority, not always to be relied upon, stated +that there are fourteen churches belonging to the town. + +There was a parting symposium in the second Pullman ere we reached +Topeka. Mr. White, Major Anderson, General Brown, Mr. Jerome, and +my much wandering compatriot, a veritable Irish Ulysses, raised the +tuneful melodies of the "Golden Slipper," the "Little Brown Jug," and +the other tender psalmodies which had whiled away so many hours, for +the last time in our society, and the little gages which were but the +outward and visible signs of the regard we felt for our friends were +exchanged with honest effusion. There may be--nay, there are--many +jealousies and causes of estrangement between the people of the Old +Country and of the New, but between the individuals of both there is a +_camaraderie_ which cannot, I believe, be found between Englishmen and +the natives of any country except America. + +"Good bye! God bless you! Be sure if ever you come to England you shall +have a hearty welcome from me." "And from me!" "And me!" "And me!" The +engine bell tolled, and we moved slowly on. + +And we were left all alone! The pleasant companions of so many weeks +had gone! I wonder if they missed us as much as we missed them? + +While travelling across the Rockies and the desert to San Francisco +and back, our course of life was pretty uniform, and one day followed +another with almost perfect resemblance in the mode of existence and +in all things except the scenery and the country through which we +were passing. First, in the early morning came one of the attendants +to our bedside with a cup of coffee, and then the curtains of the +little cubicle were thrown aside and you looked out on either plain, +or mountain, or river, or col; and on the faces of early risers at +doors or windows as the train passed through some rising town. At one +end of the saloon there was a bath-room, and from the tank there was +always to be obtained sufficient water for the purpose of an early +dip, which was enjoyed as occasion offered in turn by the party. Then +a cigarette. Then we dropped in as people do at a country house, into +the sitting-room, and exchanged ideas as to the progress made during +the night, and the stoppages, wondered where we were, and had a little +conversation with the conductor or Arthur as to the place where we +could stop or get the papers--and so got over the morning till 9 +o'clock, when breakfast was announced, consisting of fish, poultry, +meat, fruit (I had nearly said flowers, for there was always a bouquet +on the table), tea, coffee, and cold dishes, with abundance of milk +and butter. Where the fish came from and how they were kept fresh was +matter of wonder, for the instances were very rare in which there was +any indication that it had not quite recently come out of the sea or +the river. The supply of ice was liberal and unfailing, and whenever +we stopped at any considerable station the whole disposable strength +of the attendants in the train was employed in grappling with large +blocks of it and stowing it away in the ice reservoir, in which were +the larder and the cellar for such wines as needed cooling, and for +the vegetables and meat, of which there were great stores constantly +laid in. Then after breakfast there was reading or sight-seeing, +investigating the line, examining the maps, receiving visits and +returning them in other parts of the train, till in the very hot days +it was necessary, after expelling the flies, which were troublesome on +occasion, to draw the dust-blinds and the curtains of the carriages, +to mitigate the fierceness of the sun. It was objected occasionally +that by this process we deprived ourselves of the opportunity of +what was called "seeing the country," but after all a glance now +and then is quite sufficient to reveal the general character of the +districts through which the train is running; and the most diligent and +painstaking observer cannot keep his eyes fixed steadily for a day on +the external aspects of the region through which he is travelling. I +should be sorry to declare that every one was wide awake all the time +of the forenoon and up to the period of lunch, which too often exceeded +on the side of many dishes, being, in fact, a mid-day dinner; but then +no one was obliged to eat more than he liked, or drink either. Then +came the longest stretch of the day, and at its close another banquet; +and as the sun declined and the temperature decreased, we could take +more pleasure in looking out at the fantastic forms of the vegetation +which clothed the arid rocks in the desert, or on the bright green +prairie, or on the towering mountains, waiting till the sun had set, +generally in a blaze of glory. There were, of course, interruptions and +variations as we halted at the more important places; disappointments +about letters which had been telegraphed for and which were expected +day after day, constituted also a matter of conversation and discourse. +There was an harmonium in the sitting-room of the palace car, but +no one had the art of playing it, although we had plenty of music of +another sort; for after dinner the gentlemen of the railroad party who +had not dined with us came in, and we were never tired of listening to +the songs, so original and amusing, which they gave with great spirit +and admirable time and tune, for it happened they all possessed good +voices, and the melodies with which the troops of coloured minstrels +have now rendered the world familiar were then new to us. + +During the whole of our tour the weather has been most favourable. +With the exception of the rainy days in Canada, and the cold and +rawness which characterised the time of our short visit to Richmond, +there was nothing worse to complain of than continual sunshine. Now +and then the temperature was a little too good to be pleasant when we +were traversing the beds of the dry seas in the desert in Colorado and +California, but that was something to look back upon with satisfaction, +because there was no time lost in keeping within doors owing to the +rain and storm or cold. "Within doors," however, is a phrase scarcely +applicable to our mode of life, as it would imply that we were in +stable habitations, whereas, as will have been seen by those who +have accompanied us so far, we "lived and moved, and had our being" +in railway carriages; a mode of life rendered so comfortable by all +appliances, that it was sometimes no relief to be told that we would +have to pass the night at an hotel. + +For nine days and nine nights in succession, on one occasion, we never +slept out of the carriages or got out of the train except to take a +stroll about the station, or a peep into the street of a small town +whilst we were waiting, and one got quite accustomed to that nomad and +yet civilised mode of existence, where at every halting-place we were +supplied with the latest intelligence by the local papers, and made +the recipients of some attention or courtesy, visits and compliments +(the remarks of the other sort not being many), bouquets of flowers, +presents of fruit, and plenty of conversation. But that my critics +might say I dilate too much upon the material enjoyment of life, I +would describe at length the means which were supplied in the course +of these long journeys for animal enjoyment. Never could there be found +more attentive and obliging domestics than the coloured men who waited +upon us--Arthur and his fellows. There lived in the kitchen compartment +of the train, at the end of one of the saloons, a coloured cook, +very intelligent and gossipy, full of quaint conceits and dishes and +conversation, who commenced life as a slave on a Southern plantation, +probably adopted for indoor purposes on account of his smartness. He +liberated himself in the course of the war, and marched off with a +regiment of Federals in the capacity of cook and body-servant to one +of the officers, wherein he saw a great amount of very hard fighting +at very close quarters. This adventurous modern Othello was wont to +discourse with much animation when he came out for a breath of fresh +air on the platform and could find anybody to talk to him, although +he could move no more tender heart than that of Sir Henry Green. The +gentlemen of the Atchison, &c., Railway, when travelling with us, had +a _cordon bleu_ in the saloon--an Italian or Frenchman, I think, or +at all events a French-speaking man, who had served also, and would +have done credit to an establishment where faults in a _chef_ would +not lightly be condoned. In the interchange of courtesies, Mr. White +and his friends invited our party now and then to dine in the saloon, +which was not "across the way," but up a little, on the line, being the +saloon in front of us. + +But here we are at Kansas City once again! At 5.30 P.M. the train +arrived at the platform, which was gay with a Sunday crowd, of +whom many were negresses--black, brown, brindled, and yellow +_citoyennes_--in much variety of colour and garmenting. Unlike Samson, +their weakness is in their hair, and like Achilles, they are vulnerable +about the heels (to the arrows of an aesthetical criticism, which +accepts the Greek idea of beauty in form); but they seemed to enjoy +life amazingly, and not to be in need of beaux; perhaps the happiest +people in the world now that their chattel days are over. It was late +when we turned into our berths, for it was a lovely night and the +fire-flies exercised a great attraction over us, but at last the charm +was worn out and we slept till morning without a break. + +_June 20th._--Still the same boundless plain. In vain does one look for +the grass fields with close, even, carpet-like surface to be seen in +Europe. We are still passing through exceedingly rich land--the fields +covered with flocks of sheep and herds of good-looking cattle. There +are more trees by the stream-side, and shrubs growing in the hollows. +Habitations are more frequent, and so are fencing and planting. As the +sun was setting we approached St. Louis. There were some park-like +glades, and vistas opening up to pleasant mansions, amid grounds +showing marks of culture. There had been a severe thunderstorm the +night before, and the St. Louis Station had still traces of its effects +in pools of mud. But the rain had cooled the air, and the people were +rejoicing exceedingly in the great improvement that had taken place +in the weather, for, they told us, men and women had been dropping +down with the heat a few days ago as though they had been struck by +musketry. + +The appearance of the St. Louis Terminus gave one a high idea of the +importance of this city. Eight trains were waiting on their respective +lines to start with passengers to all parts of the Union; and by +the simple device of placing at the end of each train a large board +announcing its destination and the time of its departure, much anxiety +was saved to intending passengers, not to speak of the irritation of +officials avoided by this simple expedient. The journey was continued +by the Indianopolis and Vandalia, and by what is called the "Pa'handle" +line to the Pennsylvania Railroad on to Philadelphia. The train was +timed on Tuesday so that we were able to see the famous passage over +the Alleghany Mountains from Conemaugh to Altoona. For nearly eleven +miles we were carried without steam, and with the brakes on, through +very fine scenery, down the mountain-side, but the summit was crossed +in the darkness of a tunnel 1200 yards long. There are some striking +engineering feats in the way of curves and gradients, and the trace +of the line is very bold all the way down to Altoona, where the +Pennsylvania Railroad engine and machinery shops are established--the +centre of a population of some 17,000 souls, where twenty years ago +"there were," as a friend said, "only bears, deer, woodpeckers, and +skallywags." The Duke, Mr. Stephen, and our railway experts got out +and visited the workshops, and came back very much pleased at the +discovery of several London and North-Western men in good positions +in the Pennsylvania Railroad Company's service, who welcomed their +old directors with effusion, and that there was nothing visible there +for Crewe to copy, unless perhaps cast-iron wheels. The speed at +which we travelled was a sensible proof that we were once more on the +line of our old friends of Pennsylvania. From Altoona to Harrisburg, +132 miles, we rattled along in two hours and forty-three minutes. On +another stretch of the line we travelled eighty-three miles in one +hour and forty-two seconds, including stoppages; and the rapid motion +was very agreeable, as there was a perceptible increase of temperature +after we reached the plains and approached the beautiful valley of the +Susquehannah--a scene of industry, prosperity, and peace. Fortunately +there was a good light on the river, and we had a fine view of the +country all the way to Harrisburg under the rays of the setting sun. +A little farther on we were gratified by the appearance of General +Roberts at a station on the way, where he was awaiting the Duke to +congratulate him on his safe return from the Western expedition, and we +bade him farewell at his own house, with many sincere and well-deserved +acknowledgments of great and constant kindness. Then over the river by +the noble bridge, and on to Philadelphia. We did not visit Pittsburg, +which was vomiting out masses of smoke, nor did we halt this time at +the capital of the Quaker State. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +NEW YORK--NEWPORT--DEPARTURE. + + Coney Island--Newport--Bass-fishing--Habit of + Spitting--Brighton Beach--Newport--Coaching--Extra + Ecclesiam--Victories of American Horses--Newport + Avenues--Return to New York--Our last day in America. + + +The special train was detained by the immense amount of traffic on the +line, as we approached New York, and we did not reach Brooklyn till a +little before 11 P.M. on June 21, so that it was past midnight when we +ascended the steps of the Windsor Hotel, which we had selected by way +of a change, and found to be every way commendable, with the exception +of its distance from the busy parts of the city. The following day +was devoted to letter reading and writing, receiving visitors, and +various attempts "to go out," which were not generally successful, for +New York was palpitating with the intense heat. The "heated term" was +in full vigour, but it was now quite temperate in comparison to the +excesses which had marked its advent some time before our arrival. In +the evening we got up strength and courage enough to go to Wallack's +Theatre, a very pretty, well-constructed house, and saw "The World" +excellently acted and admirably put on the stage. Next day, June +23rd, in virtue of a solemn league and covenant with Uncle Sam and +Mr. Hurlbut, the Duke and I devoted ourselves to fresh fields and +pastures new, and ordered ourselves accordingly for Coney Island. A +long bank of sand by the sea-shore has, by an accident, become one of +the most crowded resorts in the world, and to-day there were races in +the new ground. It was not, as we found, so easy to get there. Having +the advantage of two experienced guides, our party of four managed to +break up into two and to miss each other; one taking the boat at one +iron pier, and the other embarking by a different mode of conveyance. +But as we were bound to see Coney Island, the Race course being a +secondary object, our temporary separation did not prove a source of +great annoyance. + +The early settlers would indeed have been astonished if they could +look round and see what they have brought the quiet place to in these +later days. They were Quakers persecuted by the good Christians of New +England, who were driven out of Boston as ruthlessly as though they +had been malignants and papists of the worst sort. They settled the +township of Gravesend about 250 years ago, and amongst the conspicuous +settlers occurs the title and name of Lady Deborah Moody, of whom this +deponent knows nothing, but wonders how, with such a title, she managed +to have influence amongst a Society of Friends. + +A ship was built, so the Americans say, of 70 tons in 1699, by the +descendants of the Quaker settlers, and less than 100 years later +the bold republicans, abandoning the doctrines of peace, engaged +and captured an English corvette off the island. It was all along of +General How, who landed his troops here and set the people to work on +the fortifications he threw up, whether they would or no. A corvette, +bound to Halifax, anchored off the island, and an old whaler, who, +says the chronicler, must have been smarting under the wrongs he had +suffered at the hands of the red-coats, or who possibly regarded the +work as he would the capture of a finner or a bottle-nose, imparted +to a few trusty friends the idea of "cutting her out." So embarking at +night in a couple of boats, they stole down with muffled oars and ran +up under the stern of the ship. There was no watch, and through the +cabin windows the officers could be seen playing cards. The crews of +the boats boarded the corvette simultaneously, seized, overpowered, and +bound the officers and men, lowered them into their boats, and, having +set the man-of-war on fire, pulled over to the Jersey shore with their +prisoners. It is to be hoped that the demeanour and language of the +captain have been misrepresented by local tradition; but he is said +to have cried bitterly, and to have exclaimed, "To be surprised and +captured by two blooming egg-shells is too blasted bad!" + +There was a long period of neglect before Fashion and the populace +found out the attractions of Coney Island. Fishermen, oyster-catchers, +and sportsmen visited the sandy beach from time to time; then after +a while a few houses were run up of a very inferior class, and these +were frequented by the very worst of the scum of New York, so that it +was almost dangerous, and certainly disgusting, to go among them, while +the scenes on the beach, to which the present proceedings afford such +a contrast, were described as being of the most disgraceful character. + +The official directions for spending a day at Coney Island certainly +indicate a belief in the possession of enormous physical energy and +indefatigable curiosity on the part of the visitors in those who +compose the code. Having given you sailing instructions by the iron +steam boat to Bay Ridge for the Sea Beach Railway (ticket 35 cents), +you are to visit the Sea View Palace Hotel, the Piazza, the two iron +piers, the _Camera obscura_ (10 cents), the Great Milking Cow, the +top of the observatory (15 cents); then to eat a Rhode Island clam +bake (50 cents), visit the aquarium (10 cents), take a park waggon and +ride over the Concourse to Brighton; see the hotel grounds and bathing +pavilion there; then take the Marine Railway (5 cents) to Manhattan +Beach; visit the Oriental Hotel and take the Marine Railway to Point +Breeze (10 cents) and return back to Brighton Beach Pavilion and take +a bath; then see the Museum of Living Wonders (10 cents), dine at the +Hotel Brighton, hear a concert in the evening, and return to New York +by 11 o'clock. "This trip," observes the compiler, "may fatigue one, +but the excitement soon overcomes the trouble." Coney Island is indeed +an institution. + +Along the sea front of the bank for some three or four miles there +has been constructed an esplanade lined with seats, and defended from +the sea by a stone wall. Outside there is a belt of shingle on which +the surf breaks, but not violently, unless in bad weather. Large +bathing establishments, with every appliance, are placed at convenient +intervals along the shore. Here in the season tens of thousands of +people may be seen, all properly and decently attired, disporting in +the waves. At the time of our visit, the hour and the season of the +year seemed not to be favourable to the indulgence. We were too late +in the day. It is an early place, and from 7 till 9 A.M. from the +month of June to the end of September are described as the orthodox +periods. Nevertheless the spectacle was quite unique, and if you can +imagine Brighton with half-a-dozen Pavilions blown out to twice their +size, and the largest hotels multiplied by ten in length, breadth, and +depth, you may fancy what the Coney Island front is, provided always +that you can also conjure up (literally) myriads of well-dressed men, +women, and children perambulating the esplanade or sitting in the +grounds around the various establishments which occupy a large space +inland--pavilions, hotels, exhibitions, restaurants, and club-houses. +There were fireworks going on in broad day; but these were principally +for the purpose of exhibiting very ingenious Japanese figures, which +were discharged from bombs, and which gradually descending were objects +of eager competition amongst the younger members of the enormous +multitude. And with all so much good-humour, so much propriety of +demeanour; none of the brutal rushes of "roughs" which disgust one +with English popular assemblages--none of the brutal horse-play, and +screams, and unmeaning cries of the 'Arrys and the Bills of our popular +resorts. + +Looking at Mr. Marshall's excellent book on the United States, which +we found to be copious and accurate, I was struck by what he says +respecting a habit of the people which, according to my experience, +has very much decreased since I was last in the States, but which +he finds in as full force, and repulsive as ever. I am bound to say +I think the habit of spitting has very much diminished, but from +numerous evidences, from the presence of spittoons in every room and +in the passages of the hotels, and from public admonitions, such as +one we saw at some of the theatres, that the audience would not spit +upon the stage, I must believe that it still exists. What the cause +of this habit may be it is not easy to determine. It cannot be in the +race, because it is scarcely an "English" habit. I would be inclined +to attribute it to the drinking of iced water, but ladies in America +use the national beverage quite as freely as the men, and spitting is a +masculine failing. Can it be a result of climate? Scarcely. For in the +States, British-born people do not seem to be affected by the influence +of the habit in those around them after many years' residence. Smokers +and non-smokers alike indulge in the practice, so that tobacco cannot +be charged with the disagreeable custom. I assume that it is as common +as Mr. Marshall asserts it is, but I am bound to say, according to +my own observation and experience on my last visit, that there was no +evidence to show that it was common or national. Chewing tobacco also +appears to me to have fewer votaries than formerly. A remark to that +effect at Richmond brought upon me something like a rebuke from the +gentleman to whom I spoke, a Judge of the land. "No, sir," he said, +"not at all! I rather think we chew more than ever!" And, to illustrate +his faith, he produced a silver box, shaped a plug of no doubt very +excellent weed, and thrust it into his mouth. I do not recollect, +however, meeting a gentleman in the course of our journey who used +tobacco in that way, with that exception. + +In the grounds in front of the pavilion, where an excellent orchestra +of some one hundred performers were playing, sat a very large and +appreciative audience, who applauded with discrimination, and were +content with the good performance of each piece. + +Our common rendezvous was the Surf Club, one of the numerous convivial +associations for which Coney Island seems to be specially adapted; +and I presume the name had nothing at all to do with any supposed +amusements of the members in connection with the surf on the beach +outside. There was some difficulty in finding our way through a +labyrinth of rooms all filled with guests: with corridors swarming +with people; with vast halls, where at hundreds of tables there were +seated people engaged in the consumption of the _menu_ of a Coney +Island restaurant, abounding in strange dishes and attended by armies +of waiters. At a rough guess, I should say there may have been about +4000 people in the building--and this was but one of several--I think +the Brighton Beach Hotel, but of this I am not quite sure. + +When the Prospect Park and Coney Island Railroad was opened none +believed in its success, but the foresight of the projector was +justified; and when it was found that respectable people would go +there, if the vagabonds of both sexes and their associates were driven +away, the police asserted themselves, and swept off the gamblers and +the others of a still more dangerous class, who were to be found there +in increasing numbers every year; and then hotels were erected and +landing-places made for the steamers; and now the electric light blazes +in a hundred halls, and music and rejoicing sound late into the night, +contending with the noise of the surf upon the beach. Bowling-alleys, +shooting-grounds, archery, croquet, sailing and rowing, all invite some +of the visitors, according to their tastes. An amusing exemplification +of the ingenuity of American advertisers is afforded by the sailing +vessels, which display in enormous characters on their main-sails +the names of quack medicines, from which no corner of this continent +appears to be safe. + +On June 24th the party, which had been somewhat dislocated, reunited +their scattered forces, and at 2 P.M. started by train after a little +repose, for Newport, R.I. It was a kind of holiday after our travels, +but somewhat out of place, for we were told the Ocean House was +scarcely ready; but we should not have found it out, had we not been +informed of the fact. The newspapers had been on the alert, and soon +after the Duke's arrival visitors began to call and invitations to pour +in--some well-nigh irresistible, for they included opportunities for +experiences of bass-fishing. + +_June 25th._--Newport has not yet put on its festive attire. It is +not the season, and we ought not to be here. Nevertheless it is still +so pleasant, and so respectably dull, that one enjoys it amazingly. +After breakfast we walked down to the seashore and sat gazing on +vacancy, and on three yellow ladies collecting clams. Returning thence +in a very hot sun, ran to earth in the hotel where, presently, there +were many visitors; and how kind and anxious to please they were! Mr. +Fearing drove up later on the top of a drag, and whirled us away to +a charming fishing-box on the shore, in order to judge for ourselves +what bass-fishing was like. It was a very pretty drive, and Mr. Fearing +handled his "four" as if he were bent on joining the Coaching Club--not +indiscreetly, as the horses were not accustomed to going together, but +with satisfactory decision--and we all were landed without mishap by +the side of the road, close to one of the best-organised sporting-boxes +I have ever seen, built entirely for the comfort and delectation of +Mr. Fearing and two or three friends who own the bass-fishing stands, +at the end of one of which a gentleman was then busily engaged in his +pastime, for the sea comes rolling up upon the rocks within some forty +or fifty yards of the sward of the green meadows on which the house +is placed. From it projects into the breakers a platform supported +on iron pillars, at the end of which there is an enlargement of the +structure to enable the fisherman and his attendants to stand at their +ease--the one in hurling the bait and the other in preparing it. And +first, as a proof that the labour is not futile, there was exhibited a +terrible-headed monster with great scales, which had been caught that +morning by Mr. Whipple--a bass of 57 lbs. weight, of which I think the +skull and jaws and gills must have weighed a third. The fishing is not, +as I found, to be done at once, but needs a little practice. The art of +casting consists in the double operation of jerking the bait from the +top of a stiff rod, and checking the run of the line without permitting +it to overrun, which it is very apt to do in an inexperienced hand, by +a pressure of the thumb on the reel, just sufficient to let the weight +of the bait carry out the hook to the farthest stretch of the jerk. +The rod, not more than eight or nine feet long, a work of great art, +and costly, is furnished with a reel, also very expensive, containing a +couple of hundred yards of prepared line. At the end is a large single +hook, sometimes secured to a piece of piano-wire, as the "blue fish" +will cut through the strongest cord or gut. To this is fixed a junk of +fat oily fish, of which supplies are kept in a basket close at hand, +to be cut up for ever and ever by the attendant, and ever and anon +pieces are chucked into the sea, and being of a very unctuous nature, +the oil rising to the top, floats away on the surface of the water, and +attracts the bass within measurable distance of the platform. Captain +Fearing threw, Mr. Whipple threw, and the gentlemen at the end of +another pier emulated them, and pounds, perhaps stones, of bait were +thrown into the sea, but the bass, which are capricious, like most +fish, were not to be caught; and so after a time we returned to the +cottage. + +I was, unfortunately, unable to accept an invitation from one of the +many hospitable gentlemen in Newport, to go out and spend the evening +on a desolate island, where they are said generally to have exceedingly +good sport, in order to get up before sunrise the following morning +and essay my skill, or want of it, in bass-fishing. Mr. Wright, an +enthusiastic sportsman, availed himself of a like invitation with +great pleasure and with many anticipations of delight, but on Monday +morning he returned weather-beaten back, and boot-less and bass-less +home, although he assured me he enjoyed himself very much, and had very +agreeable company out at sea on the rock. + +The following day (June 26th) was cloudy and cool, and all that was +of rank and fashion in Newport went to All Souls Church. There are +many churches in Newport, and in the height of the season, each is, +I am told, well filled on Sundays. And wonderful it is that there is +neither dissension nor controversy among the congregations. They mingle +together coming and going, affording to me, who have been accustomed at +times to observe the manners and customs of my country men and women +on like occasions in Ireland and elsewhere, ground for wonder, not +unintermingled with an ardent desire that we, nearer home, could learn +the secret of this moderation. + +Mr. Bridgman, our fellow-passenger in the "_Gallia_," is enjoying his +_villeggiatura_ with his wife and family in a pretty little cottage. +We were very much pleased indeed to renew our acquaintance with him, +although there was no scope for the display of his fine talents as a +salad-maker. It was not foggy enough for the ladies, who delight in a +thick and moist _brume_ from the Banks, and who sit at the open windows +when it comes on for the sake of their complexions, as it is esteemed +a sovereign cosmetic beyond Maydew or Kalydor. Whether it be rightly +credited with these virtues or not, I can answer for the presence of +many fair ladies in church, and on their way to and fro in the streets. +We dined with Mr. and Mrs. Keene, who reside in one of the best villas +of the many charming dwellings in Newport. + +The victories of the American horses in France and England created +an enthusiasm in the States almost as intense as though they had been +won by the national fleets or armies. From one end of the Union to the +other the news was flashed the same day, and we saw the names of the +conquerors in large letters in every newspaper. Unfortunately there +came at the same time reports of foul play to American competitors at +the hands of some English roughs, and there was a good deal of heat +caused by the objections taken to the entry of the "Cornell Crew" at +Henley. These international contests should be very carefully conducted +and judiciously worked, or they will do more harm than good, if indeed +they do any good at all. The injurious insinuations respecting the age +of Foxhall could but excite indignation in the minds of honourable men +against whom they were directed. + +There is a State House in the town, and there is also a mansion +occupied by Commodore Perry, but the most useful inhabitant of the +place appears to have been one Abraham Touro, a Jew, who gave his name +to the park, a cemetery, a synagogue, and a street. Altogether there +is rather an old-world air and look in the town; but one must go along +the Avenues to have an idea of the charms which lead so many of the +principal families of the Eastern States to make the place a resort +when they are not enjoying the delights of travel in Europe, or that +blissful existence which endears Paris to our Transatlantic relatives. +Bellevue Avenue is bordered by a number of very sprightly dwellings, +of every order and disorder of architecture, and rejoicing in all the +extraordinary richness and elaboration of American workmanship in wood, +each standing in a little park of its own, generally rich with trees, +shrubs, and an ornamental garden. Several of these interiors, as we +had reason to know, were furnished in the very best taste, and filled +with objects of art, excellent examples of good masters, principally +foreign, and articles imported from all the corners of the globe. Of +an afternoon the ladies might be seen driving, in very well turned-out +carriages, to some rendezvous where lawn-tennis or a picnic awaited +them; and altogether, even at this time of year, Newport presented a +picture of great refinement and comfort, which enable the visitor to +understand how attractive it must be in the height of the season, and +why it is Americans are so fond of life in Rhode Island. + +I am not in a position to throw the smallest doubt upon the statement +that the mass of stones in the form of a tower, ivy and moss covered, +and evidently the work of human hands, was not built by the hardy +Norsemen hundreds of years before the arrival of Columbus. There are, +moreover, people who declare that the erection is due to a British +governor of the colony, when it was more prosperous as a commercial +resort, though not so fashionable as it is at present. But American +antiquaries take a great pleasure in propping up the proofs which have +been adduced of Scandinavian enterprise and discovery on the continent, +many centuries before Vespuccius, Columbus, and the English navigators +lived. + +We dined on the evening of the 27th at the house of Mr. Shattock, +a gentleman of New York, who had assembled a party of very pleasant +people to meet the Duke, and kindly hastened his dinner-hour to suit +our convenience, as we were obliged to go on board the Fall River boat, +which called at 9.30 P.M. to take up passengers for the Empire City. +There was some difficulty about getting cabins or state rooms as they +are called, but "Uncle Sam," who came from New York to consort with us +quietly, applied himself diligently to telegraph wires, telephones, +and the like, and when the great steamer came alongside the wharf +our dormitories were ready. The night was calm and fine. There was an +excellent band, quite worthy of being called an orchestra, on board, +which played to the delight of a large audience till it was bed-time. +As a "sight" for a foreigner, nothing could be more striking than +the vast saloon, brilliantly illuminated, with hundreds of people on +sofas, chairs, and benches, reading or conversing in the intervals +of the music, and presenting infinite varieties of type and class, +yet all so orderly and well-behaved; and if you moved quietly through +the crowd, your ear caught many strange languages interpolating the +American speech--German, French, Polish, Russian, Italian, and, perhaps +the natives would say, British. There is some care observed in the +locking up of cabins, and I believe there are detectives and police on +board the boats; but it is said they do not look after the morals of +the passengers, and concern themselves only with vested interests in +portable property. There was no sea on, and the only motion was caused +by the beating of the paddles and the throbbing of the engine, and +early in the morning of the next day we were at our quarters in our +comfortable hotel in the Fifth Avenue. + +_June 29th._--And yet more excursions. Bound by a long-standing +engagement, a small detachment of our party set out this evening to +visit Mr. Barlow at his country place, Long Island, which travellers, +perhaps, have not much occasion to see. The Mayor of New York (Mr. +Grace) and Mr. O'Gorman were on the steamer which took the Duke, Mr. S. +Ward, Mr. Hurlbut, and our host down the Sound, and were introduced to +us by Mr. Barlow. The first-named gentleman I mentioned in one of the +early pages of this diary in connection with the vigorous efforts to +purify the civic atmosphere made by him on his accession to office. I +learn that he has since obtained a large measure of success, and let me +hope corresponding thanks from his fellow-citizens. Attacks on corrupt +influences are apt to receive lukewarm support from the politicians. +The power of the respectable classes, which hold aloof from politics, +is not large. Mr. Grace had more opposition than help from his own +countrymen, who have been long nearly omnipotent in New York, and who +monopolise a large proportion of the civic offices and employment. +Mr. O'Gorman, one of the traversers with O'Connell in the famous State +trials, is one of the leading lawyers of New York, and is held in much +respect by his fellow-citizens. The "old Country" is still dear to him, +but I seemed to gather from his remarks that he shared in the distrust +which American lawyers generally expressed respecting the principle of +the Land Bill then under discussion as far as interference with the law +of contract--"the very foundation of social life"--was involved. Glen +Cove is a beautiful place, standing high above the level of the sea, +and commanding charming views of the sound and of the opposite shore. +It is surrounded by trees, ornamented by woodland and fine natural +groves, broken up by ravines, through which trickle streams of water. +The mansion is furnished with every comfort and luxury, and we had a +garden to saunter about in the morning, and a genial hostess to talk +to, and her fair daughter to sing for us, so that it would have pleased +us well to have made a longer sojourn at Glen Cove. Here we passed two +very peaceful days, part of Wednesday and Thursday, and in a pleasant +drive with our host in the early morning had some slight outlook on +umbrageous Long Island. "_O! si angulus iste!_" It is 115 miles long +and 14 miles broad, and quite big enough for me! And there be deer +in the woods and trout in the rivers, and fish in all the creeks, +and game in the wooded lagoons, and forest, lake, and civilised life, +and many things to please the eye; and then the comet was so good as +to display his glories and his tail before Glen Cove. But our time +of departure from the States was drawing near, and there were still +things to be done in New York, and many engagements to be kept, ere we +started on our homeward journey on July 2nd; and at 12.35 on the 30th +June the Duke and I took the "cars" at a rural station, and reached +New York at 2.35, in time for a run through Tiffany's and some little +shopping and visiting. There was a dinner arranged by "Uncle Sam" at +"Sutherland's" in honour of the famous city restaurant. The house is +one of a type which has, I believe, disappeared in the "City," where +once flourished famous establishments such as Williams' Beef Shop +in the Old Bailey, Dolly's in Paternoster Row, the Billingsgate Fish +Ordinary, Jacquet's, &c., like it in character. Great New Yorkers do +not disdain to cross the threshold, within which they find admirable +fare and excellent wines--the national delights of clam chowder, clam +soup, soft-shell crabs, and many other Transatlantic delicacies--at +the far end of Broadway, still holding its own against the fashionable +restaurants. Of the party who dined there with Chancellor Robertson +and others in 1861, only "Uncle Sam," Mr. S. Barlow, and I survive; but +the host, a granitic sort of man, with a kindly Scottish heart warming +the case inside, seems capable of presiding over his feasts for another +generation. + +_July 1st._--It was difficult to realise the idea that this was our +last day in America, but the truth was forced on us by the practical +duties of getting the baggage ready and settling up generally, ending +with a dinner at the Turf Club, where we met Mr. Keene, of Foxhall +fame, who had also entertained us at Newport, Mr. Jerome, Mr. Stuart, +Mr. Travers, and other fathers of the New York sporting world, which +seems very like our own, and had to drink madeira of all but fabulous +antiquity and excellence. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +RETURN TO EUROPE. + + The "_City of Berlin_"--The Inman Line--The Service at Roche's + Point--Queenstown Discomforts--A sorry Welcome Home. + + +_July 2nd._[B]--Up at 5.30. The Duke, Lady Green, Sir Henry, Mr. +Wright, Edward, all engaged in the transport department, with Mr. +Trowbridge in observation; incessant activity. The Queen Anne coach +was in readiness at 7.30, and in half an hour more we were discharged +at the Inman wharf. There was a great flotilla--five large steamers +leaving at the same period for Liverpool, and there was the usual +throng at the landing-places of friends to bid "good-bye" to those who +were about to cross the Atlantic. The steamer we had selected belonged +to the Inman line, and whatever there may have been wanting to the eye +on board, compared to the trimness and paint of the Cunard steamers, +there was nothing to regret in our accommodation or service. There were +so many passengers that the dining-saloon, illuminated by the electric +light--which was also used for the purpose of lighting the engine-room +and the lamps in the corridors--would not contain them all at the same +time, and so there were two messes for dinner. Epergnes filled with the +most beautiful flowers were ranged in order, and a rampant war-steed +composed of white roses was displayed on the table. I am not about to +give a log-book, or to trespass on the patience of my readers by an +account of such an ordinary event as a passage home. The second day +after we left New York was the anniversary of Independence, July 4th, +and the day was duly celebrated by the citizens of the United States, +who constituted the large majority of our fellow-passengers. The "stars +and stripes" were hoisted at the main, and the cabin was draped with +British and American flags. But there was no speechifying, and the +spread-eagle was content with moderate flights; a recitation and a song +or two, and the fire of champagne corks, being the only indications of +an extraordinary festivity. + +About this time of the year the Atlantic, in the latitudes which +we traverse, is rather vexed of fogs; and if one be disposed to low +spirits, I know nothing which weighs upon him more than the sound of +the fog-horn. But what must it be for the captain, who is perforce +obliged to go at full speed, or as near to it as he can, with the +expectation every moment of some startled cry from the bow "Sail right +ahead!" Nor is it quite out of the running that an iceberg may be +taking a sail across his course. Fortunately we had no experiences of +the kind; and as night was falling on the 10th July land was in sight. + +The lights of the Fastnet were seen through drifting haze, and about 10 +o'clock at night the "_City of Berlin_" steamed through a rising sea, +with a strong beam wind, into the roadstead of Roche's Point, burned +her rockets, and laid-to for the steamer to take the mails, and those +passengers who had decided to land, on shore. + +It was blowing freshly, and rain fell heavily; and as we looked down +from the lighted decks on the murky water, and made out the tug as +she paddled up to us, rising and falling on the waves, we were seized +with reasonable misgivings as to the propriety of leaving our ship and +taking to such a craft. I am bound to say that our experience more than +amply justified them. + +I am writing these lines with a very faint hope that any amendment +will be introduced, in consequence of what I say, into the abominable +service between the American vessels off Roche's Point and Queenstown. +In fine weather and in daylight it is not of much consequence, perhaps, +what discomfort one may be exposed to in a short passage to the +shore; but to affront women and children with the misery which must be +experienced at night time and in bad weather, in the steamers employed +in the service, is little short of barbarous, if it be not indeed +altogether so. + +After I had got down upon the deck of the little steamer and surveyed +the scene around me, I thought that it would have been much wiser to +have gone on with my friends to Liverpool; but I had some engagements +in Ireland, and so had the experience I was glad not to share with +my fellow-passengers, on whom I should have liked the old country +to have made a favourable impression. There was the great steamer, +with hundreds of waving hands, and the sound of friendly voices +bidding us "God speed," a blaze of lights, and almost as steady as +the solid earth, as the horrible little tug puffed away, and, getting +from under her lee at once, encountered the swell. If she could have +ridden over the water below, she certainly could not escape that which +came down from above; so that we were all pretty wet and cross and +miserable in the half-hour which elapsed before we reached the shore. +Fortunately, there were not many passengers who availed themselves +of the opportunity; but the deck of the steamer was crowded by poor +people returning to their native country. Accommodation for the +cabin passengers, except seats on the wet and sloppy decks, there was +none. There was a little cabin, stuffy and comfortless, and moreover +occupied by a couple of women who had come out to see friends by way +of a pleasure excursion, and who were suffering the last extremities +of sea-sickness. The spray broke over the luggage and passengers; +it was in such circumstances that the custom-house officers began +their search. One of them, opening my bag, which was unlocked, found +a small revolver. It was unloaded, and there was no ammunition for +it; but, nevertheless, it was seized, for I was "importing arms into +a proclaimed district without licence." A similar mishap occurred to +a Spanish officer, who was not quite so easily appeased as I was by +the assurance that the arm would be given up on proper application +to the police. His revolver, he insisted, was part of his uniform, a +necessity of his existence, and the authorities might as well seize +his epaulettes or spurs. However, my deadly weapon was restored to me +some days afterwards, after a correspondence with the custom-house, +and I dare say the Hidalgo was equally fortunate. These were incidents +to denote that we were in the midst of trouble. There was but a sorry +welcome for us when we landed at Queenstown. Not a car to be found, +that I could see; but there were a few porters, and the agent of the +hotel at the pier; and, commending my luggage to his care, I walked to +the establishment. It surely cannot be quite an unaccustomed event for +a steamer to arrive at Queenstown at that time of night! The last train +for Cork had gone; and it might have been expected that lighted rooms +and some sort of preparation would have awaited the travellers; for +every vessel that touches at Queenstown, coming from America, surely +lands a few people needing rest and refreshment? A demoralised waiter, +who appeared to think that such a thing had never happened in the +whole course of his experience, as the inroad of ten or twelve people +asking for supper and bedrooms, informed us that nothing could be done +until the gentleman who represented the hotel at the landing-place had +arrived; and so we sat on the stairs for half an hour, and were then +shown into a gaunt room, dimly lighted by gas. There was nothing ready. +The hungry people, by dint of patience and perseverance, eventually +succeeded about midnight in obtaining some poor substitute for supper +and scrambled to their beds. + +I mention the circumstances in which my fellow-passengers and I were +landed at Queenstown, that those who are interested in promoting +the welfare of the port, and in making the route through Ireland +less thoroughly objectionable, may take steps to obviate the great +inconvenience to which travellers at present are certainly exposed. + +Next morning I reached Mallow. I was but a few hours in the +"distressful country," but I found that things had gone from bad to +worse while we were in the States. I heard from my fellow-travellers +in the train that "Boycotting" had attained such a pitch in the South, +that all the relations and conditions of social life were exposed +to peril, if not destruction. And still, with the usual cheerfulness +of Irish landlords, accustomed, as it were, to these excesses of the +popular will, my informants talked of hunting, fishing, and shooting; +and I heard full accounts of the state of the rivers, and of the take +of fish which had made some of them happy. The County Cork, indeed, +had nearly a parallel in the "wild West." But what a contrast between +the state of public feeling, in respect to the outrages which were +perpetrated in each, in the country we had left, and that to which +I had returned! In the United States there was no attempt to justify +the men who were guilty of such deeds. In Ireland it was impossible to +obtain evidence or to convict the offenders. I am not going to close +this narrative of our little excursion with a political disquisition, +indeed I have not the materials for forming any opinion respecting the +breadth and depth of what may be called the Irish national movement in +the United States; but there seems to be a general vague impression +in America that as the British Government was not very wise and +equitable in its dealings with the people of the thirteen colonies +in the reign of King George, it is, somehow or other, at the present +moment, treating with harshness and injustice the whole of the Irish +race in Ireland. It is impossible not to recognise the fact that the +head, perhaps the heart, and certainly the purse of this development of +Irish discontent are in the United States. The arms, the body, and the +legs are in Ireland. During the whole time of our visit, although we +visited towns where eminent orators were lecturing upon Irish subjects, +and where representatives of the League were in session, there was not +a trace brought home to us of the strong sympathy which undoubtedly +exists in many American cities with the movement in Ireland. There +were accounts of the meetings in the newspapers, and now and then a few +leading articles on the subject; but we might have concluded, from what +we saw and heard generally, that the Irish question was of far less +importance to the American people than the religious views of Colonel +Ingersoll, or the discussions between the railway companies respecting +their fares. The recital of wrongs, most of which have been long ago +redressed, still reaches the ear and touches the heart of the American +public, and if the Irish population had not in many ways provoked or +excited the antagonism of the native Americans in the towns, and of +the Teutonic element which exercises such a powerful influence in +the country, there would be far greater sympathy for the supposed +oppression of the Sister Island by England. The fact that emigrants +come from Europe is accepted as a proof that the countries which they +leave are ill-governed; and Americans, in dealing with the emigration +question, are apt to forget the existence and nature of the forces +which induced their own ancestors to seek homes in the New World. + +The _New York Times_ declared in an article last June, that there is no +essential difference between the two divisions of the Irish in America +and of the Irish in Ireland. The voyage across the Atlantic works no +transformation in Pat, and he is still as much an Irishman after his +plunge into an alien civilisation and taking out his papers as when +he stood on the old sod in Meath or Tipperary. "He cares no more for +the American eagle than for an owl; but a sprig of shamrock stirs him +to ecstasy. The name of Washington has no meaning for his ear; but +that of St. Patrick is a living and potent reality." That statement, +however, must be taken with qualification. There are to-day 90,000 +acres of land in Minnesota as thoroughly Irish as if they were planted +in the centre of Connaught. There are Pats and Pats. Many of the most +wealthy and prosperous merchants, bankers, and landowners whom we met +in the West were not merely of Irish extraction, but born Irishmen, +and the extraordinary spectacle of Irish millionaires who knew how to +keep their money, and to add to it, too, may be seen in San Francisco +and elsewhere in the West. Many, less fortunate, have high positions +either in the army, or as politicians, or in the estimation of all +that is great and good in America--such as Mr. O'Conor--men who have +held aloof from politics, and who could not be tempted, even by the +Presidentship, to enter the arena of party strife. One convicted rebel +of 1840 now occupies a leading place at the American bar. I heard him +denounce the Land Bill in terms he might have used in denouncing the +atrocities of the Saxon in his hot days when O'Connell was king. The +influence which has been acquired in many parts of the Union by the +Irish immigration and by the descendants of immigrants has naturally +excited at various times the opposition and indignation of the American +born, and it has always been more or less opposed by the Teutons of +different nationalities who occupy such a powerful position in all +the great States of the West. But "the Native Party" is now either +dead or sleeping. A very distinguished officer and politician said +to me that he had at one time been a most eager and ardent adherent +of the policy of the Native American Party, but that when he saw how +earnestly and devotedly the Irish had come forward in defence of the +Union, how brilliantly they had fought, and how recklessly they had +sacrificed their lives, in 1861, he felt constrained to abandon his +principles, and to admit their free right to all the privileges of +American citizenship. I could not, however, but recollect that General +Richard Taylor, in his most amusing, able, and graphic work on that +same war, from the Confederate side of the question, bore the strongest +testimony to the services of the Irish in the army which fought under +the banner of the Slave States. In New York and in San Francisco +the Irish element has exercised almost supreme control in municipal +matters, and it may be said, without offence I hope, that, whether +it be owing to the opposition they have encountered or to a radical +deficiency which may be Irish rather than Celtic, their management has +not conduced to the comfort of the cities or to the pecuniary purity +of the Executive. In San Francisco there is a strong anti-Irish press +and much anti-Irish feeling. The 'Argonaut' repudiates the thraldom of +the Irish associations and factions in the Far West as strenuously as +the 'Times' and 'Tribune' do in the East. But notwithstanding all that +may be written and done, it is impossible to resist the influence of +numbers under a system of suffrage so large as that which exists in +the greater number of the American States. It was curious to read in +a Californian paper an appeal to England to suppress Irish agitation. +"We confidently believe," says the _Argonaut_, "that the wisdom of +its public men, the healthful condition of its public opinion, and +the strength of its military power will be sufficient to crush out the +Land League movement, which is but incipient rebellion. That England +will deal justly, firmly, and successfully with this effort of united +ecclesiasticism and Communism is the earnest wish of every intelligent +and independent mind that believes in free government, the guarantees +of property, the rights, and the personal liberty of man." However, +there are American parties, if not statesmen, whose wishes are by no +means directed to such a consummation, and we must take note of the +fact. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +SOME GENERAL REFLECTIONS. + + Education--Free Schools--Influence of Money in + Politics--Corruption in Public Life--Crime on the Western + Borders--The Great Rebellion--Anniversaries--Great courtesy to + strangers--Manners and Customs. + + "Westward the course of Empire takes its way; + The four first acts already past, + A fifth shall close the drama with the day, + Time's noblest offspring is the last." + + +The "tar-water Bishop of Cloyne" would have been exceedingly astonished +could he have seen the first line of his prophecy or averment made to +do duty as a motto to Mr. Bancroft's History of the United States; but +surely if the prophecy be not realised, it will be the fault of the +agencies engaged in working it out--never in the history of mankind, +as we know it, have such advantages been enjoyed by any nation as have +been, and are, the appanage of the Americans of European origin in +the New World. They have leaped into the possession of their heritage +full armed, like Minerva from the brain of Jove. For them have all +the champions of human rights died or conquered, and the protagonists +of human struggles for liberty and light fought. For them Science has +trimmed her lamp--for them martyrs have died--for them Europe and Asia +have been in toil and travail for countless generations, and they have +been guided across the sea to a grand continent where it would seem as +if Nature had been engaged for myriads of ages to provide for their +happiness and grandeur--all climes and all products are theirs--the +bounteous plain, the ore-filled mountain, the treasures of the deep, +the heaven-made ways by lake and river, and it would be a despair for +all mankind if they misuse their glorious inheritance, and if all the +nations of the world see that the pillar of fire in the west was but +an _ignis fatuus_ dancing before their aching eyes in a Serbonian bog +of creeds and 'isms, of factions and faiths, all struggling towards +the gate of the Temple of Mammon. "Philosophers," in all the doubts and +fears which the condition of the Republic inspires at times, cling with +confidence to the palladium which is, they think, to be found in the +system of education based on the free schools of the States. If there +were not a distinction between knowledge and morality, they would be +justified; but the Evil One tempted us to eat of the fruit of the tree +which brought sin into the world, and if Americans are to be trusted +as authorities, the result of the largest and most liberal system of +education ever devised is not as happy in practice as it ought to be +according to theory. + +As the central Government extended its sway over the Territories there +was a uniform system, when assigning land for public objects to railway +companies, of retaining for the School Fund a portion of the land +in each Territory, as it was settled and admitted as such, under the +control of the central Government. In the States Constitutions creating +Sovereign States, there are provisions inserted, varying very little in +language and not at all in spirit, which render it compulsory on the +Legislature of each State to maintain public schools free to all the +children of the people residing within its borders. Another principle, +of universal application, provided that all schools under public +control should be free from sectarian or denominational teaching, in +the schools or in the books used for educational purposes. With such +safeguards for the extension of education, it is depressing to find +that, in certain districts at all events, crime and immorality prevail +in the United States as extensively as in the benighted kingdoms of the +Continent of Europe. But the most serious consideration in connection +with the system of common schools in America, is the fact that serious +doubts are intruding themselves respecting the success of it. In a +recent official report it was stated that whereas the children who +ought to go to school numbered about fourteen and a half millions, the +average attendance was not more than five millions. But, assuming that +all the children went to school, there are people who declare that the +education given under the National system is by no means satisfactory. +Mr. R. G. White affirms that the system is a failure; and high +authorities assert that "any comparison between the results obtained +in the public schools of New York, Cincinnati, and Boston, with those +of such public grammar schools of England, as Bedford, Manchester, and +the City of London, is simply ridiculous." The teachers are continually +shifting, and when the teachers, as they do in this land of liberty, +go away, the schools are deserted, the constant services of a staff +cannot be retained unless there is very considerable increase in the +rate of payment now made to the male and female teachers. None of these +in any State have, I think, more than about 9_l._ per month. Mr. White +says that "the mass of the pupils of the public schools are unable to +read intelligently, to spell correctly, to write legibly, to describe +the geography of their own country, or do anything that reasonably well +educated children do with ease; and they cannot write a simple letter, +they cannot do readily a simple sum in practical arithmetic, they +cannot tell the meaning of any but the commonest of words they read and +spell so ill. They can give rules glibly, they can recite from memory, +they have some dry knowledge of the various ologies and osophies, +they can, some of them, read a little French or German with very bad +accent; but, as to all real education, they are as helpless and as +barren as if they had never crossed the threshold of a schoolhouse." +It is from American writers that these accusations against the common +school system are to be gleaned. Some statisticians say that crime and +pauperism are increasing far more rapidly than population. The charge +on the State for punishing criminals and keeping paupers last year was +$20,000,000, or L4,000,000; but it is too much to attribute crime and +pauperism to the defects of the schools. It might with more reason be +argued that the teaching of the people in the schools tends to develop +the looseness and eccentricity of thought, where there is no religious +teaching, which are exemplified in the uprising of extraordinary sects +and strange philosophies; for America is the land of spiritualists, +mesmerism, soothsaying, and mystical congregations. Mr. Hepworth Dixon +may not be a perfectly unimpeachable authority on the subject of the +number of spiritualists in America; but there can be no question they +are to be counted by millions. It is averred that believers in spirits +generally believe in "special affinities which imply a spiritual +relation of the sexes higher and holier than that of marriage." It is +not wonderful then that there should be also a very large number of +divorces, especially in the New England States. Mr. Nutting says that +"in the history of nations there has never but thrice occurred such +a breaking up of the family tie as is now taking place, especially in +Rhode Island and Connecticut, among the people of New England blood." +Mormonism, although of American origin and early growth, has been +mainly successful by the constant importation of ignorant peasants from +Europe. + +There is a want of reverence on the part of children towards their +parents which is very striking. Americans who have admitted and +deplored this have sought to account for it by the school system, +wherein the State usurps the place of the parent, and teaches the young +idea to mock at any authority but that of the schoolmaster. It would be +lamentable to have to admit that free education is associated with the +weakening of parental influence. Theoretically, there is nothing in the +American system to prevent the teaching of religious and moral duties +by parents at home; but it would seem as if very little of that kind +of instruction was given by the busy fathers and anxious mothers of the +Republic, and that when the day's work is done at school, and some time +given to the preparation of the studies for the day to follow, there is +no further teaching. + +I do not think the rule "By their fruits shall ye know them" can be +applied to the public schools, in connection with the prevalence of +crime, immorality, unbelief, or eccentric religion. But it is certain +the system has not by any means secured that high level of general +education, or what education is supposed to bring with it, which its +friends claim for it in the States. There is reason to believe that +the standard of morality has not been uniformly high in the political +world, and that in the public intelligence the judiciary does not +aspire to an absolute immunity from suspicion. Even in the old settled +States, legislators from time to time may be found, who, seated among +the good and wise, excite admiration akin to that which is aroused by +the spectacle of a fly in amber. It has been observed by travellers +that whatever affection may exist in families, it does not attain that +keen sensibility and lasting power which is found in French domestic +life. + +When American newspapers of the greatest influence and circulation +write invectives against the corruption which prevails in places +high and low, when writers of great intelligence and known character +contribute similar articles to periodicals which possess the highest +position in the literary world of America, a stranger may be permitted +perhaps to say a few words respecting the impression produced upon +his mind by what he heard and read on the subject when he was in +the country, without it being alleged that he attempts to assail +the principles of free government, or to make invidious charges or +wholesale accusations against a nation. I know too well the force with +which Americans could retort if they were so minded, and how they could +point to the reports of election judges which set forth the prevalence +of extensive bribery, led to the suspension of writs, and will perhaps +end in the disfranchisement of some ancient and populous boroughs and +constituencies in England, and to the speeches of Sir Henry James in +Parliament, to cast any stone out of my glass house on that score; +but I do not think it can be established that persons in a position +at all analogous to that of the members of a State Legislature have +been purchased wholesale in England, Ireland or Scotland, or that even +a complete Borough Corporation had been bought up. Now, nothing was +more common in the Far West than to hear it stated openly that Senator +So-and-so had bought his place, and that Mr. So-and-so had purchased +a State Legislative body in order to "get through" some railway or +other scheme. That was accepted in fact as a matter of course, and +not contradicted or questioned by any one. We heard from time to time +of the sums which So-and-so would expend to buy his senatorship, and +of the money actually paid to secure the passage of a line from the +legislature of O---- and the like, whilst stories relating to the +purchase of judges were common in the conversation of the hotels and +cars. + +I do not aver that these stories were true. I only know that they +passed current and were not challenged by those who were around us. +"Thoughtful persons," who exist in the United States as well as in +the vicinity of Pall Mall clubs, lament, deplore and hate the evils +of growing corruption with all the fervour of honest and powerless +natures. The mechanism is scarcely concealed. It stands before the +world with less attempt at disguise than the gallows in the gaol. Mr. +Parton, in the 'North American Review' of this July, writing on the +power of public plunder, says: "At present, in the ninety-fifth year +of the Constitution, we are face to face with a state of politics of +extreme simplicity, of which money is the motive, the means and the +end. What was the last Presidential election but a contest of purses? +The longest purse carried the day, and it carried the day because it +was the longest. Some innocent readers perhaps have wondered why the +famous orators who swayed vast multitudes day after day and night after +night, have not been recognised in the distribution of office. They +were paid in cash from ten dollars a night to a thousand dollars a +week." And then he goes on to describe the business in detail, and to +show what this power is. He says: "There is a boss in the city of New +York who will take a contract for putting a gentleman into Congress. +Pay him so much and you may go to sleep, wake up and find yourself +member elect. A boss is a man who can get to the polls on election +days masses of voters who care little or nothing for the issues of the +campaign and know of them still less. They operate upon the strangers +in the land who are unable to use its language and are unacquainted +with its politics." Mr. Parton describes with humour one of these +"bosses," an improvement on the pugilists and cormorant thieves of a +remote period. "The Emerald Isle gave him birth; the streets of New +York, education. To see the brawny, good-tempered Irishman walking +abroad in his district when politics are active is to get an idea +of how the chief of a clan strode his native heath when a marauding +expedition was on foot. He lives in a handsome house, and has more +property than any man has ever been able to get by legitimate service +to the United States. He treats his dependants and retainers nobly, but +as the agent and organiser of spoliation he is a prey to every minor +scoundrel, for at certain seasons he dare not say no to any living +creature. And yet it requires tact, self-possession and resource to +move about among needy people with a pocket full of money, an embodied +"yes," and have some of it left after the election. The strikers, as +they are called, go for solid cash now instead of target companies and +clambakes for which the candidates paid the bills." "Money, money," +exclaims Mr. Parton, "everywhere in politics, in prodigal abundance, +money, except where it could secure and reward good service for the +public, hecatombs for the wolves, precarious bones for the watchdogs." +The details in the article are precise, and if they are to be trusted +it may be doubted whether the claims of the United States to possess +a cheap government can be maintained, for it is not cheap to pay +responsible executive officers a precarious pittance per annum if +now and then it costs a million dollars to change them. Mr. Secretary +Blaine has thrice declared that the election in October 1880 in the +State of Maine, a model New England State, was carried by money. His +opponents declared that he and his party were as bad, and that they +too flooded the towns with money. What renders the situation more +dangerous is the fact that the men who provide the money for running +these enormously expensive political combinations are either seekers +after, or holders of, office, and the inference is that they seek to +control Government, or, as Mr. Parton puts it, that "the Government +is coming to be rather an appendage to a circle of wealthy operators +than a restraint upon them." That is indeed a serious proposition, and +the result of observation goes to support the idea that it is valid. +The small man is in office, but the big man, his master, is outside. +The mischief is brought prominently forward in connection with the +sale of public lands in the North-West, which have been claimed as the +heritage of the people, and indeed of all the nations of the world. The +government land attracted the hardy labour of all countries, covering +the western west with thriving towns and populous counties. But now +the prairies are skinned by rich men, by "land-grabbers," people who +buy up tracts of twenty thousand or thirty thousand acres wherever +they can lay their hands upon them, evading the law and filling the +western world with roving labourers who work on these prodigious farms +in summer and starve in winter. This is, we are told, the result of +"government by lobby." + +Occasionally there is an exceeding great and bitter cry over all this +from the depths of the body politic. Some great paper in a moment of +deep mental agony publishes an article like that, to which I have +called attention, by Mr. Parton; occasionally some preacher, nobly +daring, thinks it necessary to direct attention, from his pulpit, to +the progress of corruption. Dr. Talmage delivered a very remarkable +discourse whilst I was in America on the text from Job. xv. 34: "Fire +shall consume the tabernacles of bribery." Although I do not profess +exactly to understand to what particular sect he belongs, he is one of +the leaders of religious thought, dividing with Beecher and others the +popular favour in the Empire City. The State buildings at Albany ought +to be heavily insured if the reverend gentleman's vaticinations are +right. It was an American discourse. I cannot give the whole oration. +The people of the Brooklyn Tabernacle were presented with a muster-roll +of the people who had distinguished themselves amongst the great ones +of the world. Cobden, Brougham, O'Connell and Rowland Hill were placed +in juxtaposition as leaders on our side of the water. Of course it was +impossible to resist the allusion to Francis Bacon and to Macclesfield; +but it was scarcely correct to say that the Lord Chancellor +Whiteberry--I presume a misprint for Westbury--"perished," nor do I +quite understand what the preacher meant by the awful tragedy of the +_Credit Mobilier_. Washington, Ben Butler, and John McClean were linked +together for the benefit of Americans. They were, Dr. Talmage declared, +great politicians, but "out of politics there has come one monstrous +sin, potent and pestiferous, its two hands rotten with leprosy, +its right hand deep in its breeches pocket. This is bribery." Dr. +Talmage called upon the American people to judge the crime. "Under the +temptation of this sin," he exclaimed, "Benedict Arnold sold the fort +in the Highlands for thirty-one thousand three hundred and seventy-five +dollars; Gorgy betrayed Hungary, Ahitophel forsook David, Judas killed +Christ. I think," he says, "when I see the strong men who have gone +down, of the Red Dragon in Revelation, having seven heads and ten +horns, and seven crowns upon its head, drawing the third part of the +stars of heaven after it." And therefore he proceeds to preach against +bribery. He thought it was the right time, "because the Legislature +in New York is busy in investigating charges of bribery. The whole +country woke up in holy horror at the charge that two thousand dollars +had been offered to influence a vote in the Legislature, as if this +was something new; as though in one State nine hundred and seventy-five +thousand dollars had not been paid a legislator of the State Government +by a railway company to get its charter and secure a dedication of +public lands; as though three-quarters of the legislators of the United +States had not, through bribery, gone into putrefaction whose stench +reached heaven. After a few weeks' hunting the squirrel has stolen the +hickory nut. Gentlemen in New York hunt out wrong by day and play poker +and old sledge at night at Delavan House. It was like the country which +had spent six millions of dollars in lawsuits about William Tweed going +suddenly into hysterics when it found out that he had stolen a box of +steel pens. California is submerged in the grip of a great monopoly; in +Kansas United States senators had been involved in charges of bribery; +in Connecticut an election to Congress was bought as men might buy +a box of strawberries. Last year they were convicted of attempting +bribery in Pennsylvania, but the Court of Pardons liberated them with +the exception of two judges, who were told that they would be cut off +from political preferment for their obstinacy. A Pennsylvania United +States senator used to put a price on legislators just as a Kentuckian +puts a price on his horse." But it was not legislators alone that Dr. +Talmage attacked. He declared that the railways, the common carriers +of the country, were tainted by a favouritism which was, in fact, +the result of bribery. One company made rebates in its fares to some +favoured corporation, as in the case of a petroleum company, which +was enabled to control the price of that light all over the world in +consequence of a virtual monopoly that was given to it by arrangement +with the railway. In the same way merchandise in grain, provisions, +and cattle are placed in the hands of a few firms. "How much," asks +Dr. Talmage, "did it cost the Elevated Railroad to keep the fare from +dropping to five cents from ten cents? I have been told," said he, +"three hundred thousand dollars," which is 60,000_l._ "Very seldom +does a bill pass through any of our Legislatures if there be no money +in it. Sometimes the bribery is in bank bills, sometimes in railroad +passes, sometimes in political preferment, sometimes by the monopolies +given to the legislators, what are called points, a corner, a flier, a +cover, washing the street, salting down, ten up! If you want to know +what these are, ask the bribed members at Albany and Harrisburg." +Then he goes on, with some truth, to declare that the bribery begins +far away behind all this; that it is really with the money subscribed +for election expenses that the evil begins its course. "From the big +reservoirs of subscribed election expenses the little rills roll down +in ten thousand directions, and by the time the great gubernatorial, +congressional, and presidential elections are over, the land is drunk +with bribery." Perhaps it is quite as well that it is from an American +orator and from an American writer such statements and such indictments +proceed, rather than from a stranger like myself; but it is very clear +that the evil which De Tocqueville indicated long ago has spread rather +than diminished, and there is reason to think that it will do so until +the public conscience of a great people is aroused to a sense of the +enormity of the mischief. But it lies far down towards the base of +the national institutions, and any attempt to extirpate it will fail +until the doctrines of the "Spoils to the Victors" be rejected from the +political catechism, and the interests of party made the means and not +the end of political life. + +The letters which appeared in the _Morning Post_, written under +the influence of the surprise and anger I felt at the extent and +impunity of crimes of violence and the state of feeling, or want of +it, respecting them in the West, were badly received in America, and +were severely handled by a few papers, as I was informed; I expected +that the mention of the subject would not prove agreeable, though +I guarded myself most sedulously from a single offensive word--nay, +went out of my way to palliate the offences against life and living, +and to excuse the people who allowed them, whilst I most carefully +drew the line--a broad one--between these border ruffians and the +law-abiding, virtuous people of the settled States. I was not, however, +prepared for misrepresentation. One would have thought that I accused +the kind hosts who had received us--our generous entertainers in +so many cities--the courteous, polished gentlemen who accompanied +us--of murder and robbery, and ascribed to them the brutal murders +committed by Canty or the Kid. As I quoted chapter and verse, and as +the papers which vilified me could not deny the statements, they wrote +that I had been imposed upon by the vivid fancy--in other phrase, +the deliberate lying--of their brother editors in the West. One organ +had the effrontery to declare that the Duke of Sutherland expressed +his delight at the kind and courteous treatment of the ruffians I +denounced; adding, "somebody lied--it was not the Duke." No. It was not +indeed! A friend sent me one of these, and below an article in which it +was said that I might take my place "beside Basil Hall, Mrs. Trollope, +and Dickens for libelling the people of the United States," and that +my stories were all inventions, there was a pregnant commentary as +follows:--"Sunday, July 17th: Daring Train Robbery; Bandits Boarding +Chicago, Rock Island, and Pacific Cars; The Conductor and a Passenger +Shot Dead, and the Safe in the Express Car Robbed; the Passengers Saved +by a Brakeman." + +I hope it will not be imagined that I have any desire to cast obloquy +on the grand efforts, supremely successful as they have been, to +turn the prairie and the desert to the uses of civilised man and +of the world, and to open up the Western Continent to humanity and +civilisation. I am too sensible of the courtesy, ready service, and +hospitality everywhere accorded to the party of English travellers +of which I was one, to write one word which I thought calculated to +give pain or offence to any of our many friends or to any right-minded +American. _Maculae solis!_ 'Tis a pity they are there! In a few years, +perhaps, the memory that such things were will have passed away like +the recollection of some evil dream. But public sentiment must make +itself felt, and above all there must be some abatement of the maudlin +sympathy, which is virtually on the side of crime, if it be active in +averting punishment. + +Crime in America, especially in the Eastern States, is very much +the same as it is in other countries, but in the far West there is +more recklessness in dealing with human life, which, in spite of the +Howard Society and of humanitarians, I believe to be connected with +the indulgence extended under State laws by American judges and juries +to criminals who appear to be deserving of nothing but the strict +and unmitigated application of the rope. "Property" is safe, for the +citizens hunt down with extraordinary energy marauders whose object is +simply plunder. Ordinary robbers and gangs of burglars are speedily +and summarily suppressed. It is otherwise with those who assail life +and limb. The desperadoes who infest the "saloons," as they are called, +with which every western settlement is sure to be provided as soon as +the shingle roofs are placed on the earliest upheaval of deal planks +which can be called a dwelling, have far greater immunity and freedom +than burglars or robbers. Wherever the train stopped for water on +our journey in New Mexico, Western Colorado, or Eastern California, a +rectangular wooden box, with a verandah, open doors, windows screened +by a muslin curtain, perhaps a flagstaff with the Stars and Stripes +flying, a large signboard, and some high-sounding name--the "Grand +Alliance," "Union League," "El Dorado," "Harmonium," "Arcadia," or +the like--was visible, with the usual group of booted and bearded +miners, and their horses hitched up at the door-posts in front; inside +you would be certain to find men of the same class at a bar, behind +which, known for miles around, the affable Charlie, Bill, or Bob was +dispensing drinks and mixing cocktails, slings, and the other drinks, +in which the badness of the spirit is artfully disguised by a stimulant +of a more active character and more pronounced flavour, known as +"bitters," and kept in subjugation by the liberal use of ice. For even +in these burning regions ice is stored up as the one thing needful. The +rudest miner is accustomed to it; iced drinks are consumed by classes +in America far below the social level of those who never taste them in +this country. + +As the train was halting at Colorado Springs the stewards engaged +in an animated discussion respecting a certain erection of poles and +rafters just visible in an adjacent field. "I tell you dat's it." "I +say tidn't." They were discussing the probability of the scaffolding +being the gallows whereon "Canty, the Buena Vista murderer," was to be +hanged the day after. On April 29th, last year, Mr. Canty was standing +on the platform in front of Lake-house with "Johnny the Ham," "Curly +Frank," and "Off Wheeler," when Thomas Perkins appeared in an alley +opposite, endeavouring "to induce 'Dutch Bill' to go with him to the +office of Justice Casey, who had deputised him for the purpose." Canty +and his companions at once ran across and demanded his release. Before +Perkins could answer, Canty fired and missed him. The second shot +wounded Perkins in the arm; the latter drew his pistol, but before he +could use it Canty fired; the ball shattered the constable's hand. "For +God's sake," he exclaimed, "is there no policeman to help me?" He fell, +and Canty, walking close to his side, coolly sent a bullet through +his body. He was arrested, tried, and convicted. His counsel applied +to the Supreme Court for a _supersedeas_, but the court, after solemn +argument, refused the application. Then they applied to the Governor +of the State, but Mr. Pitkin, though "a weak-kneed man," would neither +grant a reprieve nor a commutation to imprisonment for life. There +was, he said, no ground "to set aside a verdict of a competent jury +and the district judge reviewed and approved of by the Supreme Court." +In the very last hour a woman came forward, and the Denver paper gave +_verbatim et literatim_ the text of the document in which ... "with dew +regard," she offered Sheriff Spangler $50,000 (10,000_l._) to save the +life of W. H. Canty, her cousin, whose real name was, she said, N. H. +Salisbury. "I entreat you to have him spared till you have an interview +with me." She added that "Jennings and his brother in Leadville would +pay a still larger sum. You may have ample means for life," &c. A +gentleman of the press, who came into our train at South Arkansas, +was present at the execution. Just before the drop fell, Canty, who +had expressed complete confidence in his ultimate liberation till the +day before his execution, spoke for fifteen minutes, protesting his +innocence. Then he exclaimed, "Good-bye, nothing can save me. I have +faith in the Saviour and a hereafter." The trap was sprung, but to the +horror of every one, the rope broke at the beam. The murderer's neck, +however, was dislocated, and "a happy relief was experienced" when +it was found he had died a painless death. As he was the nephew of an +eminent statesman it was expected his friends would take action as to +the disposal of his remains, which were put "in a neat casket at the +sheriff's expense." In the journal there was a woodcut of the murderer. +"Before his likeness could be taken holes were bored in the door and +Canty was lashed to it, and then, when the door was set upright, the +photographer watched a favourable opportunity when the head and eyes +were quiet and secured the impression" from which the engraving was +made. He was not so fortunate as Frank Gilbert, who was sentenced to +be hanged the following day for a brutal murder, but respited, "in +order that the proceedings may be reviewed by the highest judicial +tribunal," by Governor Pitkin at the last moment, "till July 29," the +day on which Rosencrantz is now sentenced to be hanged. The sheriff, +Judge Ward, the clerk of the court, and the prosecuting attorney +joined with others in petitions to the governor on the ground that +the Supreme Court judges had refused a _supersedeas_ in consequence of +the defects and informalities of the record of the proceedings in the +court below. Rosencrantz was respited, and the public, who had been +expecting a double execution on the 18th of June, were disappointed, +although they were allowed to slake their curiosity by the sight of the +condemned men and by testing the ropes in the prison enclosure where +the scaffold was ready. In the paper which gave the text of Governor +Pitkin's reprieve there was a heading "Done Brown. Al. Huggins, +marshal of Recene, turns out a bad man. He shoots and fatally wounds +officer Brown of Kokomo." Phil. Foote, constable of Kokomo, formerly +marshal of Robinson, and Al. Huggins, marshal of Recene, it seems had +spent the night in visiting the saloons of Kokomo, and in the early +morning began to fire their pistols and guns off in the street, and +continued to do so until Andy Sutton, marshal of Kokomo, attempted to +arrest them, but failed, "as he was quickly covered by two rifles." +Mr. Brown, a police officer, asked Huggins to put up his pistol, and, +to encourage him, proceeded to pocket his own revolver, when Huggins +took deliberate aim with a 38-calibre Colt and shot Brown in the left +breast, just above the heart. Huggins and Foote started for Recene. +The marshal of Kokomo followed quickly in pursuit, with a large body +of men. Huggins refused to surrender, whereupon the marshal shot him +in the face. As there was a movement to lynch him, Al. Huggins was +sent under strong guard to Leadville, but Foote escaped. "Brown was +not dead by last accounts, but was not expected to live long." Then +came a long account of another "Denver tragedy. Charles Stickney +murders Mr. T. Campan and Mrs. H. O. Devereux in a boarding-house." +Stickney was nephew of ex-Governor Clifford, of Rhode Island, served as +lieutenant, 20th Regiment, in the war of 1861-4, graduated at Harvard, +became principal of a school, married a lady whom he sent to London +to study music, and tried mining whilst his wife was giving music +lessons in Denver. There she met Mr. Campan, one of the best families +in Detroit; Stickney shot him and killed a woman who was in the room +at the same time. "Public opinion is in favour of Stickney, and he will +probably be reprimanded." The evening of the day we reached Leadville, +"Alderman Johnnie M'Combe, a leading candidate for lieutenant-governor +and mayor, and last spring before the people for city treasurer," +shot and wounded, probably fatally, a well-known actor named James +M'Donald, because the latter had taken some children in M'Combe's +buggy for a drive. It is not easy to determine how far Johnnie's chance +of office may be affected by this ebullition, but the newspapers did +not write of it with harshness; one gave it a comic character by the +heading, "Ex-Alderman M'Combe attempts to perforate Jemmy M'Donald's +cranium." In my morning paper of the same date I find that "James Hogan +was foully murdered by James M'Cue in the open streets of Erie this +afternoon in a quarrel about a handkerchief;" that Dr. Flemings, a +prominent citizen of Portland, Ashley County, Arkansas, had appeased +a quarrel between a pedlar named Gillmore and a coloured man very +effectually, for, "incensed by a remark made by the pedlar, the doctor +drew a pistol and shot him dead;" that "a prominent business man of +M'Leansboro' had made a sensation on the streets to-day by hunting +up, pistol in hand, one of the gay Lotharios of Hamilton County;" +that "Daniel Keller, deputy county clerk, was stabbed and killed in +the street of Virginia City by Dennis Hennessy, a kerbstone broker;" +that "a searching party under Captain Leper had overhauled Hamilton, +Myers and Brown, the outlaws who shot Sheriff Davis and Collector +Hatter at Poplar Bluff, Mo.; killed Hamilton, mortally wounded Myers, +and made Brown a prisoner;" that "James Hurd shot Jeff Anderson at +Alamosa, Col., and that it was feared the latter would not survive." +An account of the death of "Curly Bill," a notorious desperado, leader +of cowboys and murderer of Marshal White, who was killed at Caleyville, +Arizona, by his comrade, Jem Wallace, followed. They had a quarrel (of +course, in a saloon). After a few drinks "Curly Bill" said, "I guess +I will kill you on general principles." Wallace stepped out of the +saloon and immediately opened fire, inflicting a mortal wound on his +foe. After a brief hearing Wallace was discharged, and left for parts +unknown. Then it was related how "Thomas Clarey ('Tommy the Kid'), a +Durango outlaw, was killed by a comrade named Eskridge at Annego while +drunk." A fratricide and three trials for murder were duly recorded. +Another paper gave an account of South-West Colorado from the lips +of a recent visitor to San Juan County. "Are you going back to San +Juan? No, I think not; but it is a glorious country. The men there +are a little rough, and kill each other on slight provocation; but a +peaceable man who does not swagger and blow is not molested. There is +no law, and courts and constables are unknown." He narrates how Aleck +----, acting as a barkeeper, "a noble-hearted, jovial fellow, full of +fun, who looked you square in the eye, owns mines, said to be worth +a million," settled a difficulty; I am inclined to think Mr. Charles +Klunk rather drew on the interviewing reporter of the _Globe Democrat_. +He was, he said, going to see a stockman who lived about fifty miles +from the house where he was visiting. A farmer said to him "Come and +take a drink with me, and I'll show you the barkeeper who killed the +man you are going to see an hour ago." The stockman had come into +the saloon whilst Aleck was in the back room, and began to abuse him. +Aleck heard him, opened on the man with a revolver, and "shot him full +of holes. Next day I asked him what he was going to do about it, and +he said he had been tried and acquitted, which meant that some of the +leading men had told him that he had done right. There was no trial +about it. When a man kills another out there in a fight they don't +inquire very strictly into the circumstances, but make up their minds +that they can't bring the dead man to life by hanging the killer, so +nothing is done about it. But when a man murders another to rob him, +the vigilants turn out and have no mercy on him. They just fill his +skin with lead and tumble him into a hole like a wolf. After all, +though the bears are plentiful in the spring, you can kill a deer 100 +yards from the house where you like, the streams are alive with trout, +the vegetables and crops splendid." Mr. Charles Klunk's resolution not +to go back to this Happy Valley seems founded on sound constitutional +principles. What I wish to point out is the condition in which the +Central Government and State Governments have permitted many districts +of New Mexico, Colorado, and California to remain. It is plain that +the peculiar conditions under which the sway of the United States has +been extended over the regions of the Far West have rendered it very +difficult to establish the machinery for protecting life and property +and punishing crime; but I do not see that the statesmen at Washington +or the legislators at the State capitals are very much concerned at +the reign of terror which prevails on the borders, or that they seek +to impress on their people any regard for the sacredness of life. In +fact, human life is almost a drug in the market. And I write fully +sensible of the failures of our own and of all European Governments to +repress crime, to prevent violence, and to ensure security to life and +property. I am aware that Ireland and Poland are to the fore, and that +wife-beating and "running kicks" illustrate the brutality of Lancashire +and other districts--that London has its Alsatias, that every European +capital has foul recesses in which the only laws are those of crime. +All the world is busy preparing shoals of emigrants for the United +States. It is only, however, when some savage outbreak affrighting the +propriety of a great city arouses indignation and fear that there is +a clamour for measures of repression. I do not think there is in any +other part of the world, or that there ever has been in any civilised +country, such shootings as have filled the land to which I allude with +bloodshed. It may be said with truth that there never have been and +that there are not any similar conditions in the world. But the absence +of any great abiding movement for the correction and suppression of +violence and lawlessness cannot be so readily accounted for or excused. +There appears to be a sort of admiration for these border ruffians +among portions of the American Press and public. Even a staid paper +like the _Republican_, in an article headed "South-East Missouri: the +Reign of Lawlessness about Ended," on the destruction of the New Madrid +gang, writes of one who was sent to the penitentiary for thirty years +"as a living monument of a bold and brave lot of desperate men who had +started out to make money by robbing their fellow-men. This swift and +stern justice speaks well for this portion of the States, which has had +for a long time more than its full quota of these lawless characters. +Myers and Brown will be hung on the 15th July, and their execution will +be witnessed by thousands of South-East Missourians." The spectacle +of the hanging will not do much good, if it be like the execution at +Colorado Springs, which was advertised as a sort of picnic or pleasure +excursion. One advertisement ran, "After the hanging to-morrow drink +La Salle beer; it will cool your nerves." "Highway robbery here has +about run its course, and the people are determined that lawlessness +in those regions shall no longer go unwhipped of justice." Very good. +But, why not sooner and long ago? "Rhodes was hung by Judge Lynch +when captured at the killing of young Laforge in New Madrid;" but the +gang killed the sheriff and wounded the deputy-sheriff and collector +before the people arose in their majesty to squelch them. A criminal +is invested with a notoriety which, next to popular estimation, is +valued by some men, and it is noted with interest that "Gilbert" (one +pitiless murderer) is a Catholic, and that "Rosengrants" (another +homicide) "inclines towards the Episcopalians." A Leadville doctor +visits one of them to ask for his body. "No, sirree, you can't have +my body; I'll be hanged first!" And the public laugh at the lively +sally, and admire the _sangfroid_ of the wit! In fact, there is a +_tendresse_ for crime in this grim humour. A Texan who would "fill the +skin" of a stranger "with lead" for aspersing Texas would no doubt +heartily enjoy the description of the early population of the Lone +Star State, which I quote from the Texas Press. "In the early days +of the Republic, and even after annexation, many of the white men who +came here had strong sanitary reasons for a change of climate, having +been threatened with throat disease so sudden and dangerous that the +slightest delay in moving to a new and milder climate would have been +fatal, the subjects dying of dislocation of the spinal vertebrae at the +end of a few minutes--and a rope. A great many left Arkansas, Indiana, +and other States in such a hurry that they were obliged to borrow the +horses on which they rode to Texas. They mostly recovered on reaching +Austin, and many invalids began to feel better and consider themselves +out of danger as soon as they crossed the Brancos River. Some who would +not have lived twenty-four hours longer had they not left their homes +reached a green old age in Western Texas, and were never again in risk +of the bronchial affection already referred to by carefully avoiding +the causes which led to their trouble. Some at Austin recovered so +far as to be able to run for office, within a year, though defeated +by a respectable majority, owing to the atmosphere and the popularity +of the other candidate." The most extraordinary fact connected with +the indulgence which is extended to Western excesses is the severity +with which Northern and Eastern writers and publicists deal with +the recklessness of Southerners with regard to life, as if it were a +political question in some way connected with slavery. In an article on +"Colonisation," in the July number of 'The International Review,' there +is an attempt to prove that the prevalence of homicide in the South as +compared with the North has impeded the flow of immigrants, although +slavery has disappeared, and the writer, quoting Mr. Redfield's book +on 'Homicide North and South,' says the terrible "scourge of open +murder, wholly irrespective of political causes more deadly than +disease or yellow fever, because each death is the result of a heinous +crime, seems to be calmly accepted by public opinion as a part of +the unchangeable conditions of social life in the South. In Kentucky +more men are killed in six days than in eight years in Vermont. In a +village of Connecticut a death from homicide has never occurred from +its foundation, while in one graveyard in Owen County, Kentucky, the +majority are murdered men, and in another county forty-two persons +were killed and forty-three wounded in two years." But in the very same +number of the 'International' there is an account of the doings of the +"Vigilance Committee" of San Francisco (where there were no slaves and +where there is immense wealth), which might cause the author of the +paper on "Colonisation" to reflect a little on his theories. Surely in +Arizona, California, &c., where the foreign population is 50 per cent. +of the natives, immigration has not been checked by the prevalence of +homicide? It must not be supposed that there is no "law" in the towns +where these crimes have been committed; in all the cases referred to +the coroner did his office and verdicts were returned, and it will have +been seen that "wretches hang" in due course. We had intended to visit +the State prison at Canyon City on our way to Pueblo from Leadville, +where we were promised an opportunity of seeing "thirty murderers all +in a row," but the delay of the train on the road deprived us of the +means of verifying the statement, and I give it as it was made. It +would seem as if the criminal supply were super-abundant, or that death +on the gallows had no deterrent influence. The chances of escape are, +if not numerous, at least considerable. At Deming, Denver, Leadville, +Tucson, Tombstone, and other cities, the vast mass of the inhabitants +are law-abiding, peaceable, honest, and honourable men, who feel as +much horror at the violence and bloodshed around them as the most +refined lady in any saloon of Boston, Paris, or London, but they appear +to endure these things in the hope that the law will be enforced at +last; now and then they break into vigilance committees and execute +their own decrees, though the judges do not fail to lay it down that +they have been accessories to murder. The great civiliser and police +agent is the railroad. It is affirmed that as the iron way is pushed on +the outlaws and the _personnel_ of outlawry congregate at the terminal +town, but I suspect that there is a fringe of the material left on the +border as it runs. As our party were at dinner in the palace-car one +evening the train pulled up at a station. There was a group of rough +men on the platform, who stared in with all their eyes at the white +tablecloth, set with bright glass and silver, and at the cheerful faces +under the lamps. "How merry they are. I wonder if they know that this +is Dodge City?" exclaimed one of the crowd. I was told by an official +that when they were making a railway in these parts the surveyors, &c., +were much troubled by gangs of gamblers and robbers, who impeded the +work and debauched the men, so after due warning they made a razzia +on the gamblers, shot a lot of them, and the rest "vamosed." There was +not very long ago an actual war in the Grand Canyon Valley between the +Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railway and the Denver and Rio Grande +Railway, in which there was an array of armed forces and fighting on +both sides, and we saw with our own eyes the remains of the breastworks +cast up in the Grand Canyon by the belligerents. The law came in at +last. "One side got at the judge first and gave him $50,000. The +other was quite ready to go beyond that, but the first was too quick, +and the suit went against the company." I was talking to a lawyer +about the length of time which is allowed by the judges to criminals +sentenced to death as a detail of the execution of the law not in +accordance with the general practice of civilised nations, when one +of the company remarked, "They must do it, sir, to please the people. +If we had Judas Iscariot in gaol to-morrow there would be thousands +of petitions to commute his sentence, and thousands of dollars ready +for an appeal to the Supreme Court. Our people don't like prompt +sentence." Nevertheless, sentence and execution are pretty swift when +the desperadoes take the law into their own hands, as we have seen. +The revolver and the "saloon" are the agents and the scene in most of +these murders, and whisky is too often the motive power. In Kansas it +is a criminal offence to sell any intoxicating spirit, or to use it +except on medical certificate. It is said that the law cannot last, but +it surely was a very strong conviction of the evils which were endured +by the community that brought a State Legislature, elected by the +people, to enact that beer, wine, and spirits should be absolutely and +entirely banished from its borders. Lately there was a prosecution by +the State attorney of a man for selling spirits. The case was clearly +proved. The judge charged the jury in the strongest manner against the +defendant. The jury without retiring at once found a verdict of "not +guilty." "Boys," exclaimed the judge, putting his hand on the foreman's +shoulder, "Boys, I'm quite with you." The Kansas case will be, I think, +watched with great interest by the rival parties in England, and it is +certainly worth investigation and attention, for, if all I hear be true +here, a Parliament elected by the people either in advance or in the +rear of their constituents have passed a law which judges condemn, and +juries evade, and public opinion derides. + +From a British, which may be an unintelligent, point of view, there +is a want of logical method in the treatment of the Great Rebellion +question by Americans. There is a general disposition to speak of the +war between the Federal Government and the people of the Confederate +States as an historical fact which has ceased to present burning +controversies and terrible issues to the Republic. But, at the same +time, these controversies are kept alive, and, for the defeated, are +stirred up incessantly by anniversaries and celebrations, natural but, +if it be the object of Americans, as many of them assure us it is, +to let the memory of the past die out like that of a horrid dream, +impolitic. The spirit which animated the Southern States is neither +dead nor sleeping. But there are no end of G. A. P. and G. A. R. +Associations flourishing their banners and waving their sheathed swords +in and out of the newspapers, and it is almost more than Southern +flesh and blood can bear at times to be reminded of the defeats they +sustained, even if they be content to admit that the doctrine of the +sovereignty of States was a delusion, and that the indivisibility of +the Republic was a fundamental principle of the Constitution before it +was conclusively established by force of arms. + +North and South, our good cousins are fond of anniversaries and +speechmakings. I wonder where they get their taste for them from? +Some few veterans dine together on anniversaries of old French war +days, and there is a Balaclava Dinner in the Old Country; but, though +we have a reasonably long list of fighting successes to commemorate, +their anniversaries are mostly left to the almanacks. The other day +the Americans had a celebration of the Battle of Cowpens, wherein the +heroic Morgan gave the diabolical Tarleton the deuce of a whipping. I +wonder if it was worth remembering? But it is better to remember such +things perhaps than Sherman's Raid or Wilderness--or Chickahominy. +There are bitternesses enough remaining--the rivalries and jealousies +of generals are still active and these memories might be left to die +out. + +The great war which so deeply moved the population of the United States +has left many traces in Soldiers' Homes, and men deprived of legs or +arms, or bearing marks of indelible wounds, are to be met with wherever +there is any considerable gathering of people all over the Union. The +clerk at the bar of the hotel, to whom we were talking a moment ago, +was a captain in a regiment of militia, and served with distinction, +having risen to the grade he occupies by conduct and courage during the +war; and if he is known among his friends by the title of "Colonel," +he deserves, probably, the brevet conferred upon him by the authority +of the general public around him. The conductor of the train on the +Pennsylvania Railroad, to whose attention we were so much indebted, was +an ex-officer of volunteers, was engaged at the first battle of Bull +Run, where he was wounded, and in several other actions. And our good +friend the Major, who enabled us to pass many an hour listening to his +admirable rendering of negro minstrelsy, bore in his body a proof of +the dangers he had passed, in the shape of a Confederate bullet, or +it might have been (for I am not quite sure now) a projectile of the +Federal persuasion. And so on. Scarcely a day passed that we did not +meet someone who had been fighting on one side or the other. + +One great change has come over Americans since I was last here, and, +whether it was the ridicule to which they were exposed or to a sense +of their greatness as a nation that it be due, it is to be commended. +Except by a professional interviewer, not one of the party was asked, +"What do you think, sir, of our country?"! + +The welcome which an Englishman who is entitled to admission into +good society receives all over the States, in the best houses, and +from the best men, is as gracious and warm as ever. It seems as if a +reaction against the suspicion, jealousy, and harshness which marred +the political relations of the Republic and Great Britain in times gone +by, moved those who behave with so much courtesy to Englishmen, and +that they seem to say, _sotto voce_, "Come and see how I forget the +wrongs done to the United States by the Ministers of George III. and +his successors! Admit that I can be as magnanimous as I am rich and +cultivated! I am of your house, but I have transplanted all the good +qualities of your race to American soil, and grafted them on the tree +of liberty which towers aloft in all the splendour of Transatlantic +luxuriance above us." + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +THE RED MAN AND HIS DESTINY. + + Captain Pratt--Carlisle Barracks--An Indian Bowman--The Indian + Question--The Pupils' Gossip--The "School News"--Indian + Visitors--The White Mother--The India Office--White and + Red--Quo Quousque?--Indian Title Deeds--The Reservations--The + Indian Agencies--Missionary Efforts--The Red Man and the + Maori. + + +On the 5th of May the party visited Carlisle Fort or Barracks, one of +the ancient military establishments of the Republic, where in the old +times, speaking in an American sense, a considerable force was usually +concentrated to keep watch and ward over the western frontiers, now +extended thousands of miles away to the Pacific. The Barrack, which +is a large quadrangle capable of containing a couple of regiments, is +appropriated by the Government to this great experiment, the systematic +education of the Indians of both sexes, whose families send them to +school for the purpose of learning English and useful arts, mechanical +and other, which may be of advantage to their people. It was, perhaps, +one of the most interesting of the many little excursions which the +Duke of Sutherland and his friends made in the States, and as it was +the only one of the schools which we had an opportunity of seeing I +shall proceed to give a little account of what we witnessed. In the +first place let me express the sense which every one of us entertained +of the real sterling qualities of Captain Pratt who is in charge of +the school, and of the devotion and solicitude for their charges of +those ladies employed in the training establishment. It may be asked +how casual visitors could judge of these things? The discipline, +order, progress, and perfect method visible in every room, and the +intelligence and good understanding between the teachers and the pupils +which could be perceived throughout the establishment, were adequate +proofs, I think, that the praise is well deserved. At the time of our +visit there were something under three hundred pupils, of whom perhaps +two hundred were boys, and these were engaged in their class-rooms, +each section of Indians being arranged according to nationality, if +such a term can be used. But, indeed, the tribes of Indians differed +from each other in personal appearance far more than do the races +which inhabit the European continent. It is true they nearly all have +straight wire-like black hair and eyes set deeply and rather obliquely +in faces which are frequently of the Mongol type. But there is great +diversity in the shape of the head, the angle of the jaw, the formation +of the mouth and nose, the colour (when not tainted or "improved" by +an admixture of European blood, whether Mexican or American or other) +being pretty uniform, a rich bronze, with something of a copper hue, +predominating in the young people. The boys were dressed in a plain +neat uniform of greyish-blue, military tunics and trousers, well shod +and comfortably equipped in all respects. The girls, amongst whom, +perhaps, taste for eccentric finery was not unobservable, wore dresses +less uniform in appearance, generally neat and always clean; but +their foot gear was rather eccentric. The rooms, spacious barrack-like +apartments, well ventilated, were appropriated to the classes according +to age and progress, the boys being separated from the girls. The walls +were hung with maps and furnished with educational coloured prints, and +boards for arithmetical exercises were in each apartment. The desks and +stools were such as would be seen in an ordinary school, and if one had +not looked at the faces of the pupils and been struck by some of the +strange characters on the walls he would have thought himself in the +middle of some ordinary school; save, perhaps, that his ear would have +missed the curious humming noise which marks the industry of idleness +or of legitimate work in similar establishments in Europe. But here +were all these young savages, poring over their books or boring with +their pens, looking up at the visitors scarcely with curiosity and +applying themselves again to their work, or answering questions put +to them with the composure which must be a portion of the Red Man's +nature. + +I cannot recollect how many tribes there were represented at the +Carlisle school; but I was struck by the race-distinctions which could +be observed when Captain Pratt, standing on a raised platform, called +out the names of each tribe. The little batches, in some instances +only one or two, stood up briskly and looked somewhat proudly about, +as much as to say, "We are Sioux (or Apaches, or Ponchas, or Creeks), +not like these other fellows." And the young ladies were, if one might +judge from their expression, quite as proud of their own people as the +boys. But the names these poor children receive are ludicrous. Not +content with calling them by English names, or American, singularly +misapplied, very often, as a name may be, their own Indian nomenclature +is translated into English, so that we heard reading and reciting +beside "Luke Phillips" and "Almarine McKillip" (a Scotch Creek) +"Maggie Stands-looking" and "Reuben Quick-bear." There was something +of sarcasm, I think, in the address of a Creek boy to the visitors. He +said: "The Indian boys had come here to learn something about the use +of the bow and hunting. Their people believed that if boys grew up to +manhood without learning they would be of no use; therefore they had +sent the boys here to get education." Then, after some moral if trite +reflections, the lad said: "You must understand that nearly everything +that was made was made both for the present and the future. This +barracks was not built for Indians, as I do not think the men who built +it ever thought that it would be an Indian school; but things were made +to do good both in the present and in the future." And then quoth he, +looking at his white friends straight in the face: "The education which +we are getting here is not like our own land, but it is something that +cannot be stolen nor bought from us." And the white man did not turn +red at the words! I do not pretend to judge of the actual progress made +in learning, but the very intelligent self-possessed teachers reported +uniformly that they were satisfied. The most useful education, perhaps, +which these Indians receive is in practical mechanics, and a visit to +the workshops attached to the barracks was amply repaid by the sight +of these industrious young fellows hammering and leathering away in +the various departments. They have actually completed waggons of a most +satisfactory construction, complete in all their parts, so much so that +orders have been received for as many as can be supplied for the use +of Agencies. They make and repair their own shoes. They have sent out +a hundred and twenty double sets of harness. They make coffee-boilers, +cups, pans, pails, and all the articles known to the tin-smith; and the +girls are taught to hem and sew and knit in the English fashion; but it +must have been not many a long year before the white man landed, when +the ancestors of these Indian maidens exercised the same mystery with +fine sinew and skin in the wonderful work of which specimens are handed +down to us to-day. On one point alone, perhaps, there was something to +regret; the health of the children was not all that could be desired. +Well clad, regularly fed, I presume on wholesome food, cleanly lodged +in well-ventilated rooms, these wild children of the plains scarcely +came up to the expectations one would form of them in the matter of +chest-measurement; and although many were remarkable for fine physical +development, Captain Pratt confessed that their sanitary condition was +not everything that could be desired, and that losses from consumption +and other causes were rather serious. But they have plenty of out-door +exercise. They have games in which they rejoice. They drill and +march to the sound of their own band, a very good brass band of eight +performers, each of a different tribe, who played "Hail Columbia!" +and the "Star-Spangled Banner," and the like, with energy and zest; +nay, with harmonious concurrence. When we went out into the large open +square, there appeared before us a wonderful being in feathers, waving +plumes, wampum and all the leathern panoply and peltry adornments of +an Indian, painted, and armed with bow and arrow, probably such an one +as Captain John Smith may have seen as he went exploring the woods +of Virginia on his way to the sacrifice from which he was saved by +Pocahontas. A target was erected at a distance of a hundred yards or +so, and had I been in the centre of it, I should have been perfectly +safe from the arrows which the Indian warrior discharged at it. But +we were told that with a good bow a strong-armed Indian will drive an +arrow right through a buffalo, and in that case I would suppose that +the buffalo was very near to him indeed. + +Of course it is but natural to find very varying degrees of +intelligence amongst the pupils, and the rate of progress was by no +means uniform, but a committee of examination which recently visited +the school declared that the manifestations of advancement in the +rudiments of English education were to them simply surprising. It was +with admiration bordering on amazement they observed the facility and +accuracy with which the children passed through the various exercises, +in reading, geography, arithmetic, and writing, of the schoolroom; +the accurate training and the amount of knowledge displayed were, they +reported, the fullest proof not only of skilful teaching, but of great +aptitude and diligence on the part of the children. Considering the +brief period during which the school had been in operation, and the +fact that the children entered it in a wholly untutored condition, +the evidence was conclusive of the capability of culture. They go on +to say: "We are fully persuaded that improvement equal to that which +we have witnessed in the case of these children of the plains, if +made in equal time by American children, would be regarded as quite +unusual. And when the difficulty of communication consequent upon the +diversities of language is taken into account we can but feel that the +results of which we have been the witnesses to-day justify our judgment +of them as amazing." + +One of the most interesting features connected with the attempts +to educate the Indians at Carlisle is the 'School News,' a little +publication which, as I understand, is conducted by Indian pupils +taught in the establishment, edited by Samuel Townsend, a Pawnee Indian +boy. It is published once a month, and costs 25 cents or 1_s._ per +year. It takes as its motto the lines: + + "A pebble cast into the sea is felt from shore to shore, + A thought from the mind set free will echo on for ever more." + +Perhaps neither the metre nor the actual statement commend themselves +to acceptance, but the matter of the little journal is full of +interest. In the first place the names of the contributors afford +full matter for meditation. Perhaps it is one of the steps which +must be taken to civilise these poor Indians that their names should +undergo a strange and, to me, unmeaning metamorphose. There seems no +reason whatever why the Indian names should not be retained, or if +there is any reason for changing them, at least there might be some +discrimination and good taste exercised in the adoption of English +Christian names. + +The first number of the 'School News,' which I have before me, contains +as an article: "What Michael Burns, an Apache boy, thinks on the Indian +Question." He says, "I cannot help myself, having much feeling for my +people, what has been said about them, and the efforts making to give +us the same privileges as the people of the United States. And it is +said how we have been treated by the bad white man, for the last ten +or fifteen years, decreasing our number. But that kind for treatment +for my nation will soon stop." The poor boy goes on to say: "There is +no doubt that we are in fault. We had the opinion that we could not +get beaten by any other nation. Now we know for ourselves that we will +have to change.... But how does the white man know which way is the +best to do. Was he born that way? No! Education gives him the light +of knowledge." Then a boy named Marcus Poko writes to his father: "I +want you to try hard and leave the Comanche way, and to find the white +man's way." In the leading article, written, I presume, by Samuel +Townsend, it is said: "Indian ways will never be good any more, it +is all passed, gone away, and the other way is coming up to take the +place. We shall all be glad when we all get into the civilised way of +living, then the Indians will not make so much trouble for the American +people. Some people say 'let the Indians get out of the way. There +is no use in trying to advance them, kill them all they are like the +wild animals deaf and dumb, they never will learn anything. We have +already paid so much money for them they have never become civilised +yet.' But all good people say, 'Oh, yes, give them an education and +plenty of opportunities, and send more teachers among them so they may +come up beside us and live as brothers and live in peace.'" There is a +little paragraph as to language. "There are a great many words in the +English," says the writer, "that the Indians have no word for, so the +white people who make the Indian books have to make new Indian words. +So the Indians have to learn the new Indian words. Now we don't know +much about it, but we believe the Indians can all learn to speak the +same as the whites." Then there is a column about the school news: +"Lizzie McRae, a Creek girl, made a very good corn bread the other +day. We had some of it. It was right good I tell you." "Robert American +Horse is a steady boy. He works in the blacksmith shop very well, and +Mr. Harris never has to tell him but once how to do something." "One +of the teachers had artificial violets on her belt. A Gros Ventre boy +saw them, but did not know what they were, so he got up from his desk +and went close to the teacher. He looked at it and then smelt it. When +he smelt it he said, 'Pooh! rags!'" "Boys, some time ago Captain Pratt +gave us advice about throwing stones at birds. Some of the boys who +understand most English did not listen. We want the birds to come and +stay with us and sing for us, too. Let us remember about this, and +not let Captain Pratt have to say it again." "Last Sunday some of the +large girls had a prayer-meeting in the yard at the back of the girls' +quarters. Nobody told them to do it, but they thought it would be a +good thing." There is a long letter from Lizzie Walton, a Pawnee girl +of thirteen years old, describing a trip to Philadelphia, and I believe +there are very few girls of thirteen years of age in any school who +could write more amusingly or better. The account of a magic lantern by +Ada Bent, a Cheyenne girl, closes the number. + +Letters from the children who are sent out to the farmers are published +in this little periodical, and give a very pleasing picture of the +lives and aptitudes of these Indians. Virginia, of Kiowar, writes from +a farm, asking one of the teachers to pardon her for not having done so +before; but "I have not much time," she says, "I am very busy set the +table and wash dishes make my bed and make pies and cakes and try to +make bread too, and the other things beside.... Sometime I make fire +and bring in wood. Mrs. Borton is very kind lady she has two children +one girl and boy. I love these little children very much." "My dear +Miss H----, I am not bad a girl. I help now a great deal. I pray for +you almost every night, also when I wake up in the morning. I like to +pray very much because I make myself good." And so on in a pleasant +little gossiping way, frequently in very difficult language. There is +an article in the 'School News' of July upon the shooting of President +Garfield: "The man who shot him," says the writer, "we suppose, thought +he would please some of the people in the United States. He thought he +was very smart. If President were to die how would every white man, +black man and the Indian feel? It was not in war when the President +was shot, for our country don't have war any more, but in peace.... +We all feel sorry because the President is suffering. We hope he +will soon recover." It is stated that about a hundred boys and girls +have gone out to work on the farms, and there are some trite remarks +about the advantages of hard work as opposed to the disadvantages of +laziness. "The farmers up country say the Indian boys can bind wheat +first-rate." "Nelly Cook, Sioux, made 36 sheets in one day last week. +Nellie Cary, Apache, made 32, and Ella Moore, Creek, made 30. Boys, do +you think those girls are lazy?" The 'School News' has a reporter, it +would appear, for the paper says that "Our reporter took a walk round +in the shops to see what the boys were doing. In all the shops every +boy was busy. In the carpenter shop there were Jock (Arapahoe), Ralph +(Sioux), Elwood (Iowa), and Joe Gun (Ponca) sawing out window and door +frames. Oscar (Cheyenne) and Michael Burns (Apache) were busy carving +balcony posts; and Lester (Arapahoe) was outside chiselling a beam. +These things are all for our new hospital.... Jesse (Arapahoe) and +Little Elk (Cheyenne) were busy in the gymnasium. The waggons which +Robert American Horse has finished painting are to be sent to Oregon +and Washington Territories." It is sometimes difficult to make out +the meaning of the little prattle which these small people commit to +the uncertain medium of the English tongue; but, on the whole, it is +a most interesting and curious study. In one respect these children +of the forest possess that which civilisation seems rather to dwarf +amongst men of the highest culture and imagination--a certain stately +eloquence and nobility of expression, in which natural images abound, +and allegory and metaphor consort together in excellent and tasteful +union. In a paper called 'Eadle Keatah Toh,' which seems to have been +the precursor of the 'School News,' there is an interesting report +from the Committee on Indian Affairs to the House of Representatives, +submitted by Mr. Pound. The motto of the paper is "God helps those +who help themselves"; but surely it might be better put that God will +help those who seek to do good to the unfortunate Indians, who in +contact with civilisation are rendered utterly helpless, and who in +their attempts to help themselves according to the manner of the race +must meet with nothing but extinction. From time to time there are +notices of deaths. One would like to know who wrote the account of the +"death of John Renville, son of Gabriel Renville, Chief of the Sisseton +Sioux." After noticing the circumstances under which he contracted his +fatal illness--fever, produced by drinking water at a spring on a hot +day on a march to the camp in Perry County, the writer says:--"'Death +loves a shining mark,' the poet sang long ago; and in the passing away +of John Renville from our school we sadly say, how truthfully the poet +sang.... Through all the days of his sickness his large sorrowful eyes +had a far-away wondering look, no pain marred the beauty of his brow, +and his voice as he addressed his sister, who tenderly watched over +him, was like the trumpet warbling of some mournful bird. Our hearts +follow the father in deep sympathy as he bears back the body of his +beautiful boy to the land of the Dakotas for burial." + +The Indian chiefs have a right, which they often exercise, of visiting +these schools as a Board; and there is an account in the Carlisle paper +of the visit of Spotted Tail, Iron Wing, White Thunder, Black Crow, +and Louis Robideau from the Rosebud Agency; Red Cloud, American Horse, +Red Dog, Red Shirt, Little Wound, and Two Strike from the Pine Ridge +Agency; Like the Bear and Medicine Bull from the Lower Brule Agency; +Son of the Star, Poor Wolf, Peter Beauchamp, and John Smith from Fort +Berthold; Two Bears, John Big Head, Grass, Thunder Hawk, and Louis +Primeau from Standing Rock; Charger and Bull Eagle from Cheyenne River; +Brother to All and James Broadhead from Crow Creek; Strike the Ree +and Jumping Thunder from Yankton; Robert Hakewashte and Eli Abraham +from Santee Agency; Mr. Tackett and his wife and daughter; a daughter +of Spotted Tail, and others. The meeting of the children with their +parents is described as being most touching; and sometimes the pupils +were not recognised, so greatly had they altered. As the chiefs seemed +unwilling to speak when called upon to do so, there was silence for a +time till a little girl, who had been about a year and a half at the +school, expressed her desire to speak in so earnest a way that General +Marshall permitted her to do so; and so, speaking in her own dialect, +her words were translated into English and into Sioux. She declared +that she liked the white man's ways and the white man's language. +Indian words, she said, were down on the ground, but the white man's +language was in his head. The chiefs, who listened attentively, seemed +to understand this curious figure of speech, and nodded their approval. +And then she enlarged upon the advantage of what she learned, and +implored the chiefs to send their children to the school, where she +says she is going to try to be God's daughter. Her words seemed to +kindle the fire within the chieftains' breasts, for Like the Bear, a +Sioux, and father of one of the boys at Hampton School, came forward +and addressed the meeting. "There is no greater power in the world," +said he, "than the Great Spirit, and we must listen to Him and do +what He wants us to do. When the men who were sent out by the Great +Father the President asked for my children I gave them up. I see you +are making brains for my children, and you are making eyes for them so +that they can see. That is what I thank the Great Spirit for, and it is +that which will make me strong." Then Robert Hakewashte, a chief from +the Santee Agency, spoke, and said that he wanted schools like that +which he saw here on his own reservation, and Spotted Tail wished for +the same thing. "Since I have learned the words of God," he says, "it +makes no difference to me what is the colour of a man's skin; if he +walks like a man it is the same. I do not believe God likes the white +colour only. God likes red and white, for He made them all." And then +the flood of eloquence was loosened, and an old chief of the Sioux, +nearly blind, verging on ninety years of age, who had come to see his +grandson, said: "I grew up a red man, and the things I see here I never +had a chance to see before. I have heard about the white man's church +and his religion, and I have heard about the holy house. I have looked +into them, and I am very much pleased. But there is only one Great +Spirit we all can worship, and the red men all over the country are +hearing about it. You are teaching the children to worship the Great +Spirit. That is a great thing, and I like it. But you have here two +sons of one father. One is sick. I want you to keep the other." And so +he carried him away. + +The condition of the Red Man who is allowed to exist under the banner +of the Republic is a subject which has attracted the attention of the +best and wisest men in the United States. The treatment of the Indians +is a question of future policy. It is one which must exercise a very +deep and abiding influence on the whole history of an ancient and +interesting people. But it is exceedingly difficult to put in a short +compass its most salient points before those who are unacquainted with +the nature of the problems to be solved. Comparisons are odious, above +all places, in America, when they are not to the advantage of the Great +Republic, and I shall not draw any between the state of the Indian +tribes in Canada and in the States. But it may be fairly admitted that +the Indian Question in Canada is divested of many of the difficulties +which surround it south of the lakes. The people of Canada have far +more land than they know what to do with. They are a sparse population. +They are not impelled to fierce adventures by mining "booms," and they +are altogether less progressive than their American brethren. Shall we +say that they are more charitable, more humane, less greedy of other +men's goods? I do not say so. But at all events it is perfectly true +that the Red Man, although he is dying out under the influence of +whiskey and other influences which need not be particularised, in his +native land, lives in comparative peace and comfort under the British +flag in Canada. He is content with the White Mother. He pursues the +occupations dear to his race as a hunter and as a fisherman. He is a +dealer in peltries, and in such small barter as his needs require. He +is the companion of sportsmen, and he delights, free as mountain air, +to hunt on the hillside and in the prairie in winter over the vast +ranges of snowy fields which in the few short months of spring and +summer teem with flowers, and the frosty lakes which yield fish to his +spear and net. There are few or no railways through his reservations +to vex his repose, no great trains of miners with pick and rifle to +drive away the moose and the buffalo, and hand the native hunter over +to starvation. The Indian gives to the white man all he needs, and aids +him in obtaining from the wide stretch of land over which he roams all +the wealth that it can afford. Practically one part of the Dominion +is handed over to the Red Man and to the half-breeds, for there is an +Indian frontier which as yet has not been much encroached upon by any +large migration of whites. As far as I know, conflicts north of the +Saint Lawrence between Indians and whites are unknown, or have not +been heard of for very many years. South of the great lakes, in the +wonderful land over which is displayed the banner of the stars and +stripes, the fate of the Indian is very different. In the words of Mr. +Carl Schurz, himself an expert in the question, "the history of the +relations of the United States with the Red Man presents in great part +a record of broken treaties, of unjust wars and of cruel spoliation." +That is a sweeping statement, which it would be just as well for +an Englishman not to make, but coming from the mouth of an American +citizen and of a United States Minister with plenty of evidence to back +it, there can be no harm in recording my conviction of its truth. It is +but another indictment against a defect in the form of government which +Americans exalt as the most perfect of human institutions, that the +central government made treaties in good faith with the Indian tribes, +but was unable to enforce their obligations or to maintain their +integrity. There is, as all well-informed people know--well informed, +at least, in reference to American affairs--a commissioner who makes an +annual report to the Secretary of the Interior respecting the Indian +tribes in the various locations over the Union and the Territories. +The last of these reports which I have seen is that of the Acting +Commissioner Mr. Marble, addressed to the Department of the Interior +from the office of Indian Affairs at Washington in the November of +last year. The volume contains the reports of the agents in the Indian +Territory; of the schools for Indian children established in pursuance +of a wise and humane policy, and detailed statistics in relation to the +Indian settlements and reservations, the latter indeed forming by far +the largest portion of the volume of 400 pages. Before I call attention +to the condition of the Indians, and the efforts made to save them from +extinction or from a degradation worse than annihilation, I should like +to direct the attention of those who are interested in the subject +to the view which is beginning to find favour, I believe, among the +most experienced men in the States, that the system of "Reservations" +is founded on a mistake the magnitude of which is demonstrated every +day, and that the only means of saving the Indians from extinction is +their gradual absorption as educated communities in the agricultural +life of the nation, keeping them far as may be from the white man, +but making no other distinction between them and the other citizens +of the United States than such as must be found in the nature of the +Indian race and their degree of culture and civilisation--treating +them, in fact, as communities of Mennonites, Mormons, or Norwegians, +or other nationalities would be treated in the United States. When +the Reservations were first established it was considered impossible +that the migration of the whites would extend to the remote regions of +the west to which the unfortunate survivors of the people with whose +virtues and vices Cooper and other novelists have made us familiar were +gradually and often remorselessly driven. It is a plea which will be +urged in bar of judgment that the doctrine of States Rights prevented +the interference of the United States Government on behalf of the +Indian tribes who were often ruthlessly destroyed. But it will scarcely +be a plea, I think, which humanity in full court would recognise as +valid. _Homo homini lupus._ But to the Red Man as to the Black in many +cases the White Man is worse than any wolf; far more bloodthirsty and +rapacious than any tiger--a Cain of Cains. It was our own kith and kin +who, landing on the shores of the North American continent, encroaching +by degrees upon the tribes and at last encountering their hostility, +spread their sway literally by fire and sword, and rooted out the +Red Man wherever they found him established on land or by sea which +they coveted. We, whose countrymen have worked out the same policy on +the Australian continent and Van Diemen's Land, and who can only be +restrained from its pursuit in New Zealand by the strong arm of the +Home Government, can scarcely afford to take up stones to fling at our +American brethren; and it is not with any purpose of indictment or +accusation that I proceed to make a few remarks on the relations of +the United States Government with the Red Man, and the efforts which +they have been making to compensate the Indians in some measure for the +injustice and persecution dealt out for many a generation. + +As I looked at the men gathered at some of the railroad stations in +the western desert and thought of the Red Men whose fate it is to +meet such representatives of civilisation and Christianity, I could +not but be filled with pity for the unfortunates and with wonder at +"the dispensation" under which they live. The faces are fine and bold +enough, bearded to the cheek or shaved in the American fashion, with +bold staring eyes, which "look square" in your own, with a general +expression "Do you want a fight?" in them--the heads to which they +belong are generally set on muscular bodies. If a gang of these men +think fit to go on to an Indian reservation--the very name is too often +a bitter mockery--who is to stop them? If the Indians try to do so and +one of the white intruders is killed the country-side rings with cries +of "vengeance for the massacre of our brethren," and all the papers are +filled with accounts of "Another Indian Outbreak." + +"The average frontier-man in the States looks," as Mr. Schurz says, +"upon the Indian merely as a nuisance in his way. There are many +whom it would be difficult to convince that it is a crime to kill an +Indian." I will go further and say that there are many, I believe, who +would take great pleasure in killing an Indian whenever they could; +or as one gentleman observed to me, and I believe in his relations +with white men no more just or honourable man or more humane could be +found, "I would sooner kill an Indian than I would a skunk." When I +was in the West, there was a cry raised that the Utes were about to +wage war, and appeals appeared in the local papers for a military force +to march against them. Their leaders were accused of arrogance and of +insolence, and of murderous designs, and the general remark one heard +was, "The Utes must go." I inquired a little into the matter when I got +back, and I found that the Utes were strictly and absolutely, in their +own right, standing upon the titles, which they had derived from the +United States Government, to the lands from which they were required +to move. These lands were wanted. Other lands were pointed out to them, +to which they objected, and then they were informed that they would be +moved by force, and preparations were made to levy war against these +unfortunates, if they resisted deportation from the territory which +had been assigned to them by the Great Father. Had they been Irish +landlords, they could not have been treated worse; but in the West not +one word was raised in favour of their claims. + +The first point which has to be considered is, that the Indian is +obnoxious to the very class of men with whom he is by the necessity +of things most closely brought in contact. The railway has been the +great persecutor of Red Men. It has driven away the game, it has +carried in proximity to their reservations all the enterprise charged +with whiskey, revolver, rifle, and greed, which can be furnished by +the offscourings of the world. In the Far West the miners in advance +throng into the valleys, and break the silence of the mountain-ranges +by the sound of their picks, the cattle-raisers spread out over the +plains, the ploughman settles down on the fertile land. "What," asks +the American philanthropist, and his question is echoed all over the +world by humane and good men, "what is to become of the Indian?" The +hunting-grounds are gradually being pushed farther west and north +until they are bounded by the sea, and by the eternal snow. And if by +any chance it should be found that there is gold or lead, silver or +iron, or copper, or coal in any abundance, even under these unpromising +conditions it will be sought. The buffalo is disappearing fast, faster +than the Indian himself. Deer are becoming scarcer every year. What +is to be left for the Red Man? Pastoral life and agriculture, say +the philanthropists. The substitution, however, is not so easy. The +weakness of the United States Government is the main cause why the +policy of reservations has failed. Let us take the account of it by a +United States Minister. "The Government," says Mr. Schurz, "has tried +to protect the Indians in good faith against encroachments, and has +failed. It has yielded to the pressure exercised upon it by people in +immediate contact with the Indians. When a collision between Indians +and whites once occurred, no matter who was responsible for it, our +military forces were always found on the side of the white against the +savage. How was Government to proclaim that white men should for ever +be excluded from the millions of acres covered by Indian reservations, +and that the national power would be exerted to do so?" Such an +idea the American Minister thinks would be utterly preposterous. The +rough and ready frontier-man would pick quarrels with the Indians; +the speculators would urge him on. Government could not prevent +collisions; the conflict once brought on, Government, in spite of its +good intentions and sense of justice, would find itself employing its +forces to hunt down the Indian. The old story would be repeated, as it +will be wherever, says Mr. Schurz, there is a large and valuable Indian +Reservation surrounded by white settlements, "and unjust, disgraceful +as it is, that is an inevitable result." Such being the case then, +the United States Government being powerless to see that right shall +be done, and it being at once a human and a Christian duty to avert, +if possible, the extinction of the original possessors of this grand +continent, let us see what can be done to carry out the object. Fit the +Indians, it is said, for the habits and occupations of civilised life; +give them individual possession of land as property, a fee-simple title +to the fields they cultivate, guarded by an absolute prohibition of +sale--because it has been found that whenever the Indians are exposed +to the temptation of artful traders, they will be cajoled out of the +titles they have to their land--and you will save the remnants from +utter destruction. I hope it will be so. I could not but feel a glow +of enthusiasm when I heard the Attorney-General, Mr. MacVeagh, at +Washington, speaking incidentally one day about some railway matter, +declare that he would not sanction the making of a line of railway +through Indian Territory until he was satisfied that the Indians +actually understood the conditions which had been offered to them by +the company. "I will," said Mr. MacVeagh, "send down government agents +there to ascertain that the Indians thoroughly understand what they +are doing, and that it is of their own free will and consent that the +railway passes through their territory in exchange for the money and +goods they receive for the concession." Excellent and just minister! +But, alas! I believe that ere I left the United States the whole thing +was done; the railway company had declared that they would, whether +or no, make their line, and if an Indian touched a hair of the head of +any white man, the United States Government would not be able to avert +the Divine wrath of every white man on the border from the whole of +the tribe. Well may Mr. Schurz say that the thought of exterminating a +race once the only occupants of the soil, where so many millions of our +own people have flourished, must be revolting to every American who is +not devoid of all sentiments of justice and humanity. Extermination or +civilisation is the alternative offered to the Indian. Now let us see +how it is proposed to civilise them. According to the returns in the +Report for 1880, the number of Indians in the United States, exclusive +of those in Alaska, is 256,127. Of these, 138,642 are described as +wearing citizen's dress. It will be observed that there is no estimate +given of the Indians who do not wear citizen's dress under this head. +Citizens must be sometimes very badly dressed indeed if the Indians I +saw at various stations along the line to San Francisco in shocking +bad hats and tattered clothes were to be included amongst those who +figured under this description in the report of the Commissioner. About +17,000 houses are reported as occupied. There are 224 schools, attended +by 6000 scholars for a month or more during the year, scattered over +the continent. About 34,550 Indians could read. There were 154 church +buildings and 74 missionaries. The number of children of school age was +34,541; but this was an under estimate. Of these there was only school +accommodation for 9972. The total amount expended for education during +the year by the United States Government was $249,299; by the State of +New York, $15,863; by the State of Pennsylvania, $325; by other States, +nothing; by religious societies, $46,933; by tribal funds, $7481. +22,048 Indian families were engaged in cultivating farms or small +patches of ground; 33,125 male Indians were labouring in civilised +pursuits; and 358 Indian apprentices had been pursuing trades during +the year. This census and these statistics are stated to be imperfect, +and it would require a close examination of the returns to enable an +inquirer to form any idea as to the progress made in the direction +which we are told is the alternative of destruction. + +The Reservations of the various Indian tribes are scattered irregularly +over the United States; from Michigan, Wisconsin, and Minnesota on +the north and north-west, away to the Territories on the other side +of the Rocky Mountains, down to New Mexico and Arizona, there being +none in the southern states bordering the Atlantic. But there are +Red Men of different tribes located, as the Americans would say, in +the States to the east, such as New York. The Reservations are of +irregular size and extent. Isabella, in the State of Maine, reserved +for 848 Indians, lies to the east of 86 deg. longitude, and south of 44 deg. +latitude. There is a considerable group of Reservations on the western +shore of Lake Michigan in Wisconsin, and in Minnesota. But the proper +Indian territory lies west of Arkansas, with the Red River on the +south, New Mexico on the west, and Kansas on the north; and in it are +concentrated the Cherokees, Choctaws, Chicasaws, Comanches, Cheyennes, +and several other tribes. The Navajo Reservation in New Mexico and +Arizona ranks perhaps next in size, extending northwards into Colorado, +where the Utes have got a large tract of land assigned to them upon +what appears now to be very doubtful or vanishing tenure. These, and +numerous reservations, which it would be tedious to enumerate, are +under the charge of agents appointed by the Government at Washington, +as to whose functions and personal character and attainments one +hears very surprising and contradictory reports. But I confess, from +a perusal of the documents which they have furnished to the head of +the Department, and which are published in the Annual Report, there +seems to me no just ground for imputing to these gentlemen want of +zeal, knowledge, interest, or intelligence. Those who detest the whole +work of saving the Red Man are very apt to impute to the Indian agents +not only corrupt practices in relation to the sale of government +stores and supplies destined for the use of those under their charge, +but illicit traffic in spirits, which is ruinous to the Red Man, and +even some participation in the acts of violence which have frequently +led to Indian troubles. It all depends upon the manner in which your +informant in the States regards the Indian Question whether the agents +are described as scoundrels whom no man could trust, or as gentlemen of +high propriety and general excellence. + +The necessities which have been imposed by advancing civilisation +of providing Indians with food entail a heavy outlay upon the United +States Government, which is much begrudged by large sections of members +of Congress, although they do not see their way clearly to withhold +supplies of food from the unfortunate people whose hunting-grounds have +been occupied, and who have not yet learned the arts of agriculture, +so as to be able to supply themselves with food. The transportation of +stores, the cost of beef, corn, coffee, bread, tobacco, tea; in fact, +all kinds of food, woollen goods, clothing, boots, hats, groceries, +waggons, tools, hardware, and medical supplies,--all these duly figure +in the estimates of the Indian Commissioner to a very considerable +amount, and the returns as yet do not present any large reduction on +the annual charge; although nearly all the agents speak in terms of +great hopefulness of the extraordinary advance which has been made in +their agencies in the cultivation of the soil. + +One remarkable division of the agencies has reference to their +appropriation to religious denominations. An Indian might well +be puzzled as to his form of belief if he were passed through the +various agencies, attending at each a religious service or two, and +listening to the teaching of the various divines attached to them. The +Society of Friends have control of the belief and religious teaching +of the Sante and Nemaja Indians in Nebraska, and of the Pawnees in +the Indian Territory; to the Methodists are assigned three tribes in +California, three tribes in Washington Territory, two in Oregon, three +in Montana, two in Idaho, and one in Michigan. The Nevada Cherokees, +Creeks, Choctaws, Chicasaws, and Seminoles are handed over to the +Baptists. The Presbyterians have charge of the Nezperces in Idaho, +Umtas in Utah; the Apaches, Pueblos, and two other tribes in New +Mexico. The Congregational Church exercises its religious offices +among the tribes in Wisconsin, among two tribes in Dacotah, and one +in Washington Territory. The Reformed Church has its work cut out for +it in Arizona amongst four tribes. The Protestant Episcopal Church +exercises its jurisdiction over one tribe in Minnesota, six tribes in +Dacotah, one in Indian Territory, and one in Wyoming. The Unitarians +have apparently only one tribe in teaching, the Los Pinos in Colorado. +The United Presbyterians have one tribe in Oregon; the Christian Union +has another in Oregon; the Evangelical Lutheran has charge of the +Southern Utes in Colorado; and lastly, the Roman Catholic Church has +two tribes in Washington Territory, two in Oregon, one in Montana, +and two in Dacotah. As a general rule, the reports of the missionaries +themselves are more sanguine, as they are wont to be, than are those +of disinterested, perhaps unprejudiced, observers of their work. But, +as is natural, the actual progress made depends very much, not only +upon the nature of the tribe among whom the work is carried on, but +on the character of the missionary, and on his ability and energy. In +some instances, I see the condition of a tribe is reported as being +lamentable, from a religious point of view, whilst in a neighbouring +reservation, it is stated that great progress has been made in the +establishment of religious teaching and ideas. The Rosebud Agency is +said to prosper in the hands of one reverend gentlemen; the fathers of +St. Ignatius are described as doing good work amongst the Flatheads; +the Pawnees are left without any missionaries at all, and, says +the government report, "are probably better off without them." And +depreciatory remarks are slightingly introduced concerning the work at +other agencies. On the Devil's Lake Agency, the majority of the adults +shun the missionaries as they would the gentleman who may be supposed +to own the lake by the sides of which they are encamped. The Jesuit +fathers and the Catholic sisters are described as working generally +with zeal and success, whilst one agency assigned to the Methodists +is said to have no religious agency at all. It is to the success of +the attempts made to educate the Indians at the public establishments +that the philanthropist and humanitarian must look with the most +hopefulness. + +All the reports of the teachers and visitors of these schools coincide +in one point, that the young Indian is most teachable, and that in +respect of acquiring knowledge he is, if anything, the superior of the +white, who seems to enjoy no hereditary excellence in his capacity for +acquiring knowledge. The Bill to which the Report was an introduction +may be considered indeed as the Magna Charta of the Indian tribes +if it be followed up by judicious treatment, and careful management +of and consideration for the rights conferred upon these tribes as +preliminary to their absorption as citizens in the mass of the nation, +when they are fit for such an amalgamation with the white races. The +advance of the United States westwards has left vacant many military +posts and barracks, stranded, as it were, high and dry in the midst of +the torrent of civilisation. Fort Bridger, Wyoming; Carlisle Barracks, +Pennsylvania; Fort Craig, New Mexico; Fort Cummings, in the same +territory, and a number of others, have been named as suitable for +the purpose of educating the Indian children; and it was in pursuance +of the measure recommended to Congress that the various agencies +throughout the Indian Territories were directed to forward children +whom their parents might wish to entrust to the officers of the United +States for education. "Received in the rudest state of savagism," says +the Report, "their progress is already most remarkable." I have already +remarked that the health of the boys is not generally satisfactory. +Their sanitary condition is bad; and it would appear that sometimes in +these long and tedious journeyings from the remote Indian agencies the +poor children suffer much. + +Even at the present moment the Anglo-Saxon appears to be dealing with +the Maori in New Zealand very much as he has dealt with the native in +Tasmania and in Australia. The history of our relations with the New +Zealand chiefs and people is not in a nature to enable us to throw +stones at the Americans with impunity, for the glass house in which +we live can very easily be reached. Some sixteen or seventeen years +ago a rebellion, arising out of the aggressions of the white settlers +on the lands of the Maori, was averted by a Proclamation and by Acts +confiscating a large tract of Tallinassey, which became theoretically +the property of the Crown. Of course the natives had as little to say +to that as the lady who is mentioned in 'Tristram Shandy' had with the +declaration that "she was not related to her own child." But they did +not recognise the occupancy, and whenever a white man settled upon +a portion of the ground they pulled down his fences and removed his +landmarks. The contest is still going on, but no one who is acquainted +with the history of the colony will doubt what the end will be; and +it is coming soon, or it is to come, the moment the colonists are bent +upon taking the land, and when it is desired to do so. + +"It but feebly expresses the judgment formed from what we have observed +to say that we regard the experiment made in this school to educate and +improve Indian children as in every way a very remarkable success." _Si +sic omnes!_ Why does not the United States Government, or if not the +Government, the people, abounding in wealth, full of pious impulses, +humane, charitable, who justly say that the worst use you can make +of an Indian is to hang him; why do not the political economists who +declare that it costs a million of dollars to get rid of an Indian with +gunpowder and lead; why do not the enterprising and wealthy capitalists +who desire to appropriate Indian Reservations all combine to extend the +work of these schools so as to absorb all that remains of the Red Man +in the rising generation amongst the citizens of the great Republic? 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About the + very time that we were on our way to the wharf to embark on + board the "_City of Berlin_," the murderer of the President + was accomplishing his purpose. But with all the means and + appliances which exist for the despatch of news, I believe + that the commission of the crime was not known till the + steamer had passed out to sea from the Sand Heads. + + [C] _See also_ Rose Library. + + + + +London: + +SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, & RIVINGTON, + +CROWN BUILDINGS, 188, FLEET STREET, E.C. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Hesperothen; Notes from the West, Vol. +II (of 2), by W. H. 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