diff options
Diffstat (limited to '44046-8.txt')
| -rw-r--r-- | 44046-8.txt | 1832 |
1 files changed, 0 insertions, 1832 deletions
diff --git a/44046-8.txt b/44046-8.txt deleted file mode 100644 index fa04576..0000000 --- a/44046-8.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,1832 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Munster, by Stephen Lucius Gwynn - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: Munster - -Author: Stephen Lucius Gwynn - -Release Date: October 26, 2013 [EBook #44046] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MUNSTER *** - - - - -Produced by sp1nd, Diane Monico, and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - - - - - - - - -[Illustration: THE OLD CLOCK TOWER, YOUGHAL] - - - - -MUNSTER - -Described by Stephen Gwynn -Pictured by Alexander Williams - -[Illustration] - -BLACKIE AND SON LIMITED -LONDON GLASGOW AND BOMBAY -1912 - - -Beautiful Ireland - - LEINSTER - ULSTER - MUNSTER - CONNAUGHT - -_Uniform with this Series_ - - -Beautiful England - - OXFORD - THE ENGLISH LAKES - CANTERBURY - SHAKESPEARE-LAND - THE THAMES - WINDSOR CASTLE - CAMBRIDGE - NORWICH AND THE BROADS - THE HEART OF WESSEX - THE PEAK DISTRICT - THE CORNISH RIVIERA - DICKENS-LAND - WINCHESTER - THE ISLE OF WIGHT - CHESTER AND THE DEE - YORK - - - - -LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS - - - Page - -The Old Clock Tower, Youghal _Frontispiece_ - -The Blackwater at Dromana 8 - -Blarney Castle 16 - -Ferrybank, Waterford 20 - -Shandon Steeple from the River Lee 26 - -Entrance to Cork Harbour 32 - -Kenmare Bay from Templenoe 38 - -Macgillicuddy's Reeks 42 - -The Gap of Dunloe, Killarney 46 - -Muckross Lake, Killarney 50 - -Brickeen Bridge, Lower Lake, Killarney 54 - -Holy Island, Lough Derg 58 - - - - -[Illustration: MUNSTER] - -I - - -The best way to get to Munster nowadays is undoubtedly by the new -route from Fishguard to Rosslare, in which the Great Western Railway -has reopened what was for ancient times the natural and easy way -from England to Ireland. The Normans, as everyone knows, came across -here, an advance party landing on the coast of Wexford; but the main -force under Strongbow sailed straight up the river to Waterford. Many -another invader before the Normans took the same route: and there is -little doubt but that the peaceful invasion of Christianity had begun -in this region, or that south-eastern Ireland was already baptized, -before Patrick set out on his mission. Earlier again, the Milesians -(according to modern theory) came from Britain, a race of warriors -trained to fight on foot in the Roman fashion with sword and javelin, -and drove before them the chariot-fighting people who then held the -wide plain watered by the three great rivers which meet in Waterford -harbour. - -For a good sailor, undoubtedly the long passage to Cork, ending with -a sail up the beautiful haven and the "pleasant waters of the river -Lee", is to be preferred beyond all other routes. But the mass of -mankind, and more specially of womankind, like the short sea and -quick rail, and their choice is Fishguard to Rosslare. You enter the -southern province of Ireland by a viaduct which leads from the flat -lands of Wexford, through which you will have travelled for nearly an -hour, on to the steep left bank of the river Suir facing Waterford -city. The great bridge crosses the united Barrow and Nore; half a -mile lower down is the junction with the Suir, and from the train you -have a glorious view of the wide pool made at the confluence--a noble -entrance into this province of lovely waters. - -The run along the river is beautiful, too. Citizens of Waterford have -built them prosperous villas and mansions facing you along the south -bank, and a mile below the city on an island there is seen a castle of -the Fitz-Geralds--rebuilt recently, but comprising in it the walls of -an ancient place of strength which has never ceased to be a dwelling -of this strong Norman-Irish clan. It was the household, too, from -which issued a notable man in latter times, Edward Fitz-Gerald, the -translator of _Omar Khayyam_. His portrait, by Laurence, hangs there, -picturing him as a chubby, good-humoured boy. - -The city itself may show to you only a line of lights, very -picturesque along its great length of quay: but by daylight you -can distinguish the low round castle which still keeps the name of -Strongbow's tower. Fragments of the old walls remain, and there are -buildings of much antiquarian interest--the restored cathedral, the -ruined Franciscan abbey. But, on the whole, you are not likely to stop -in Waterford, with Kerry and West Cork before you. - -Yet let me tell a little of the things which the ordinary tourist -visiting Munster passes by in his haste. The route from Rosslare to -Killarney strikes across from the valley of the Suir into the valley -of the Blackwater, rounding the Comeragh mountains: and I do not -suppose it can be disputed that the Blackwater is the most beautiful -of Irish rivers. I have seen it at Mallow, at Fermoy, at Lismore, and -at Cappoquin, and everywhere it is the same yet different; a chain -of long wide pools, but always with a swift flow to keep the water -living and sparkling, and they are strung together with great sweeping -rapids, deep enough for salmon to lie in, the anglers' joy: while on -each shore are hill slopes receding, richly wooded, from the stream -and the meadows beside the stream. The palm of beauty belongs of -right to Lismore, where the Duke of Devonshire has his great castle -overhanging a famous pool: and below it from the bridge one looks -down the stream and the valley to a far-off blue vista between the -hills. Yonder, where the river meets the sea at Youghal is one of the -quaintest and most charming towns of Ireland. I saw it first by the -light of a long procession of tall torches which lit up delightfully -the old houses with their scrolled fronts of timber, and the pretty -faces of girls and women looking out of the first-floor windows: but -it was no little surprise to me in that march to find myself under -an archway, over which rose a tall slated tower, fully equipped with -loopholes, and from whose top (if I had only known it) arrangements -had been made to bombard me and my friends that night. In daylight I -saw, though with a hasty glance, the very beautiful fifteenth-century -church still intact (for a miracle) and still used for worship: the -still greater attraction of Sir Walter Raleigh's old house I never -visited, but I hope you may. It has a mulberry tree said to be of -his planting, and a chimney piece against which he almost certainly -reclined his shoulders while in act to toast his travelled calves. - -[Illustration: THE BLACKWATER, AT DROMANA] - -Travelling by this line of rail you will have on your right the -Comeragh and the Knockmealdown mountains which divide the valley of -the Blackwater from the valley of the Suir. But it may possibly be -your pleasure, as it will certainly be your profit, to explore also -the Suir valley, which divides the Comeraghs from the outlying mass of -Slievenamon, and, farther west, curves northward from the base of the -tall Galtee ranges. - -I came last into Munster by motor car, driving from Kilkenny to -Clonmel over the southern shoulder of Slievenamon (Sliabh na m-Ban, -the Witches' Mountains), and a finer journey could not be taken. We -struck out through rich pasture and tillage, keeping this shadowy -dome which rose from the plain as our objective, till the pass began -to define itself. But it was when we had crossed or were crossing the -pass that the real beauty began. Slievenamon was on our right, well -wooded; facing us, as we ran south, were the Comeraghs, and a low foot -ridge thrown out from them, between which and us ran the Suir. The -valley is wider than that of the Blackwater, with less of what may be -called fancy wooding; but it can fairly hold its own; and the quay at -Clonmel by the shining, swirling river is as pretty as heart could -desire. - -From Clonmel to Lismore a road carries you over the top of -Knockmealdown (that is, Maeldune's Hill), and those of my companions -who took that drive crowed over me for the rest of the journey; -describing in glowing phrases all the glories I had missed, the -wonderful panorama from the top, then the gradual descent down a long -wild wooded glen into the tranquil and cultivated beauty of Lismore. - -Yet if I had a motor car at Clonmel and only one day's excursion to -make, it is not south I would go. I would go north into the heart -of Tipperary, through the Golden Vale which lies overshadowed and -half-circled by the Galtee range, until I came to the thing best worth -seeing in all Ireland, Cashel of the Kings. - -Nothing is, I repeat, better worth seeing, nothing less often seen -by the tourist; for it lies off the track. The Rock of Cashel is a -lone steep hillock, sharply scarped, and rising out of the plain -which stretches from Slievenamon to Slieve Phelim, and comprises in -fact the rich land drained by the Suir. Such a spot was inevitably -seized on for a stronghold, and from its earliest days Milesian rule -centred here. To Cashel it was that St. Patrick came to convert the -king of Munster, for Cashel was to the southern half of Ireland -what Tara was to the northern. It was the heart of Munster, whence -principalities radiated out. Thomond, North Munster, ran west from it -into Clare, across the Shannon; _Ormond_, _Oir Mumhan_, East Munster, -lay away from it towards Kilkenny and Eastern Tipperary; Desmond, -_Deas Mumhan_, the great kingdom of South Munster, comprising Cork -and Kerry, came to its walls, for theoretically the High Kingship of -southern Ireland alternated between Thomond and Desmond. And away -south-east, through the gap between Slievenamon and the Comeragh -Mountains, you can see into Waterford, which in Irish was called the -Deisi, falling into Desmond as a separate lordship. - -This rock is crowned with buildings that speak of war and peace, but -of peace rather than war. There stands intact Cormac's Chapel, finest -example of Irish building in the pre-Norman style; round-arched, -solid, barrel-roofed, decorated with string-courses of dogtooth -moulding. Beside it is the great cathedral built by the O'Brien lord -of Thomond, cathedral and fortress in one; unroofed now, dismantled, -and ruinous, yet hardly beyond reach of repair, since the choir was -used as a cathedral till the latter part of the eighteenth century. -Then an archbishop got an Act of Parliament authorizing him to -unroof it and providing a regiment of soldiers to execute the work. -Archbishop Price's reason for such an enterprise may not seem wholly -conclusive; he liked--good easy man--to drive in comfortable state to -his cathedral door, and no coach and horses could conveniently ascend -the winding path up the Rock. - -Beside the cathedral is the tall Round Tower, and on the north side of -the Rock, many remains of choir schools and other monastic buildings. -On the level plain and in the town are other monasteries ruined yet -not wholly shorn of their splendour; and within a few miles, Holycross -Abbey and Athassel speak of the wealth and culture which were -destroyed in this rich land of the Golden Vale. - -But the Rock itself, standing up there, crowned with such a group -of buildings as no other of Ireland's high places can parallel, is -the true object of pilgrimage; and the view from it over the Golden -Vale, to the noble Galtee peaks and pinnacles due south of you, and -the long waving line of Comeragh Mountains which runs continuously -east from them along the valley of the Suir, is a prospect worth long -journeying. Nor is that all. Slievenamon rises dome-shaped from the -eastern plain, a gap between it and the outlying spurs of Comeragh -showing where the Suir, headed off its southward course by Galteemore, -finds a way eastward to the sea: and to the north beyond the plain is -the far-off range of Slievebloom, dividing Leinster from the Shannon; -and nearer towards Athlone and the Shannon are the low hills with the -Devil's Bit nipped out of the top of them. - - - - -II - - -If I had to see Munster by motor car, my disposition would be to -start from Waterford, follow the valley of the Suir up to Clonmel, -then strike north to Cashel and see it. All the monuments can be seen -in a few hours, and no ruin or building that I ever visited has so -intelligent a custodian. From Cashel I would go to Holycross, that -exquisite remnant of monastic splendour, rich in historic memories, -and thence push out across Tipperary to the north-west, steering for -the gap between Keeper Mountain and the Silver Mines. This would -bring me out of the Golden Vale, which is in truth the valley of the -Suir, and into the basin of a still greater and more famous river, at -its most famous point. For from this gap the route would descend to -the Shannon, at the narrow gorge below Lough Derg where all its vast -volume of water is contracted to the ford and pass at Killaloe. Here, -if you will, is beauty: long peaceful levels above the weir where -lake passes imperceptibly into broad river; below it huge swirling -rapids, interspersed with wide, smooth, yet swift running salmon -pools, all down the twelve miles of river to the head of the tideway -at Limerick. And here, too, are historic memories more glorious than -can be matched elsewhere in Ireland. It was here at the outflow of the -lake, where is an unsuspected ford, that Sarsfield crossed (led by the -rapparee, Galloping Hogan), on the raid when he stole out of Limerick -along the Clare shore and so to this ford, on his way to lie in wait -on the slopes of Keeper for William's expected battering train. On -your road from Cashel you will have passed near Ballyneety, where he -and his troopers surprised the sleeping convoy and blew the heavy -guns into scattered shreds--a splendid foray, splendidly preluding -Limerick's heroic and successful resistance to the great Dutchman. - -But here at Killaloe, and specially at this ford above it, where great -earthworks mark the ancient fort of _Beul Boroimhe_, are memories more -honoured than hang about even Sarsfield's name. Here it was that in -the tenth century Brian Boru, Brian of the Tribute, built up with his -Dalcassians of Clare the power that learnt how to resist the Danes, -whose plundering forays threatened to blot out civilization altogether -from northern Europe. The first defeat of moment inflicted on them -was at Sollohed in the Golden Vale, near Limerick Junction, where the -forces of Thomond were led by Brian's brother, King Mahon. But it was -Brian who as a mere youth refused to join Mahon in submission (by any -pact, however veiled) to the invaders: it was Brian who had fought -them in desperate guerrilla warfare through the hills of Clare, and -along the banks of the Shannon, till he was brought down to fifteen -men, and Mahon asked him in the council chamber, "Where hast thou left -thy followers?" And Brian answered, as the Irish poem tells: - - "I have left them with the foreigners - After being cut down, O Mahon! - In hardship they followed me on every field, - Not like as thy people." - - -It was Brian who in that council caused appeal to be made to the -Clan Dalcais whether they would have peace or war, and "War", they -answered, "and this was the voice of hundreds as the voice of one man". - -The work that was begun at Kincora was finished sixty years later -outside Dublin when the Danish menace was finally broken and -dispelled on the shore by Clontarf: and in that fight the old lord of -Kincora, Brian of the Tribute, High King by then of all Ireland, fell -gloriously in the hour of a victory almost too dearly won. - -You can see in Killaloe the little old church, built somewhere in the -eighth or ninth century, with its high-pitched roof of stone slabs, -under which Brian worshipped more than ten centuries ago. Beside it -is the cathedral built by his descendants, and adorned with noble -archways in the rich Romanesque style of native Irish architecture. - -It is probable--certain, indeed, to my thinking--that Brian's rath and -strong place of abode was where the market-place of Killaloe still -is, on the top of the high ground to which the streets climb from the -river and the churches. The fort at the ford is called in Irish _Beul -Boroimhe_, that is the "Mouth of the Tribute": and one can easily see -how it came by its name, for here was the strategic position which -commanded all the traffic from the long navigable reaches of the upper -Shannon and its lakes to the tideway at Limerick. Here portage must be -made, here toll could be taken; and not only on the river traffic but -on all the cattle that came down from Clare into Tipperary by this the -one really practicable ford. - -[Illustration: BLARNEY CASTLE] - -From Killaloe to Limerick the road is pleasant, along the -ever-widening valley which is blocked by Keeper to the north, but -trends opening and widening towards West Clare and the sea. Yet to -understand the beauty and the charm of that characteristic piece -of Irish landscape, you should be taken down the stream in the -characteristic boat of those waters, the long pole-driven cot. -Shooting the rapids in these craft is a wonderful sensation, and even -on a chill day in February the tumult of lashing water sends warmth -into the blood. So you can follow the stream till at last below -Athlunkard bridge you reach the long Lax Weir, which keeps the memory -of Scandinavian settlers in its name (_lax_ is Norse for salmon, -to-day as then), and the memory of early Norman settlement in the odd -little tower built in the middle of the weir to command the passage, -as long ago as the days of King John. - -In Limerick itself King John's Castle with its great rounded towers -frowns over the Bridge of the Broken Treaty, where Sarsfield and -his men covenanted with William for protection to the property -and the religious freedom of Irish Catholics, and then took -ship for France--first of the Wild Geese, founders of the Irish -Brigade--leaving no guardians but honour and justice to enforce -the sanction of the treaty, guardians that were of no avail. Much -has been written of the siege of Derry and in praise of its heroic -defenders: but too little is known of Limerick's resistance, when -the French officer, whom James II had left in charge, declared that -the walls could be battered down with roasted apples, and Sarsfield -answered that defended they should and must be. You can see the mark -of William's cannon balls on the old wall near the convent hospital -east of the town: single marks on the dark limestone here and there, -but at the angle of the wall, where the Black Battery stood, and -where a breach was made, there is clear trace still of the desperate -assault--from which William's best troops, after they had effected a -lodgment, were finally driven back pell-mell. - -From Limerick the West Clare Railway (whose vagaries have been made -more famous than I ever knew them to deserve) will carry you through -Ennis, passing near Bunratty Castle, Quin Abbey, and many another -place of fame, to the coast where Lahinch offers one of the most -popular golf links in Ireland. It is a wild wind-swept coast, a -wild surf beats on the strand that divides Lahinch from Liscannor, -and north of it are the great cliffs of Moher. Lisdoonvarna is near -by, a spa much frequented by Irishmen, more specially by the Irish -clergy. But the favourite place of all who visit this part of Munster -is Kilkee, a little watering-place set above steep cliffs on which -the Atlantic swings in with all its weight. There is no other place -known to me in western Ireland where you can find decent seaside -quarters in a spot that meets the full force and splendour of the -sea. And from the Clare coast near by--even out of the window of a -railway carriage--I saw one of the greatest prospects that eye could -look on. To the south, some thirty or forty miles distant, the Dingle -peninsula stretched outward, with the huge mass of Brandon rising out -of the blue: but away north-west I could see very clear the three -island heights of Aran, and east of them the whole group of Connemara -mountains, beyond which again, away up into Mayo, the shapes of -Mweelrea and Croagh Patrick were dim yet recognizable in outline. - -The day was of astonishing clearness, yet, as so often happens in -western Ireland, its clearness had nothing hard: the Atlantic blue was -deep and sombre, the mountain shapes, exquisite in line, were vested -in colour that had a magic and a mystery all their own. Sunlight -across that brine-laden air, across those pungent expanses of bog, is -never crudely definite in its revelation; there is a hint of romance -and glamour in the pearly shimmer of its brightness. - -Clare has noble traditions: and no one should visit it without a -pilgrimage to the castle of Carrigaholt on the Shannon estuary near -Kilrush; for this was the ancestral home of that branch of the -O'Briens who made the ancient name illustrious on every stricken field -in Europe. They got their title, the Viscounts Clare, from Charles -II, but after the Williamite wars they were attainted; and from -Sarsfield's death onward it was always a Lord Clare who commanded the -Irish Brigade--that wonderful fighting force whose chief recruiting -ground was here in south-western Ireland. Two Lords Clare got their -death at the head of their men, one at Massaglia in 1693 when Prince -Eugene was beaten: the second at Ramillies, where in the general -disaster the Irish Brigade not only saved its own colours, but carried -two British standards back to Bruges. The third and last earl, who had -refused restitution to all the estates and titles if only he would -forswear his religion, led the immortal charge at Fontenoy, when -Ireland's banished men snatched in a desperate feat of arms fierce -requital for the penal laws that had left them a choice between exile -and slavery. Among all the writers who ever handled that period of -history, whatever their prepossessions, none ever wrote the name of -"Clare's brigade", save with honour and admiration; and no nationalist -poet has told their praise so eloquently as the Unionist, Miss Emily -Lawless, in two sister poems. One of the two depicts the eve of -Fontenoy in the exiles' camp, and the wild stirring in men's hearts. -"The wind is wild to-night, and it seems to blow from Clare"--blows -with a memory in it and a vision of all that has been left, blows with -a promise of things long hoped for, since "Clare's brigade may claim -its own" wherever the fight rages. - - "Send us, ye western breezes, our full, our rightful share, - For faith and home and country and the ruined hearths of Clare." - -[Illustration: FERRYBANK, WATERFORD] - -And the second tells how, on the morrow of the battle, strange craft -with strange bodiless sailors were seen on the Western coast, -making swift way like homing birds to Corcabascinn, this westernmost -barony of Clare. - - "Men of Corcabascinn, men of Clare's brigade, - Hearken, stony hills of Clare, hear the charge we made, - See us come together, singing from the fight, - Back to Corcabascinn in the morning light." - -Yet in truth it may be that only the native born will find any special -charm in this stormy Corcabascinn or its wild winds and waters; for of -prettiness and favour it has none, owning grandeur rather than beauty. -The counties of Munster which appeal to every human being who has eyes -in his head to see with are Cork and Kerry--but Kerry above all. - - - - -III - - -The unhappy inconveniences of sea travel prevent most folk from -visiting County Cork under the best conditions. Access should be by -boat: and surely the entrance into that wonderful Cove where the -great liners halt to take off mails is noblest of all gateways into -Ireland. All the encircling ring of hills is rich with vegetation, but -above all on the east by Queenstown is the choicest and most varied -wooding. Anything will grow there and nearly everything has been made -to grow. The little town itself is picturesque, climbing the steep -slope and dominated by Pugin's great cathedral, which stands on the -disembarkation quay, making a centre for the last impressions and -emotions of those--alas! how many thousands yearly--who leave Ireland. - -It is not now as I saw it in the early 'eighties, when hopeless, -broken, half-famished peasants were pouring out in a ghastly torrent, -mere wreckage on the flood: emigration was then eighty thousand a -year, to-day it is less than half that number. Those who go to-day, -go reasonably equipped, go for the most part to friends in cities, of -which they have heard so much, where they have so many kindred and -acquaintances, that the journey seems hardly into exile--hardly to a -strange land. Yet, even to-day, every train that brings the emigrants -leaves behind it, through the West and South and Midlands, its wake -of bitter weeping; at station after station it has gone out amid -tearing away of locked hands, last embraces severed, faces of old -men twitching, faces of women convulsed with sobs, and sped on its -journey to the accompaniment of that dreadful heartrending "keene", -the Irish wail, which is heard nowadays more often at the ship's side, -or on the railway platform, than at the grave. "Och, the poor soft -Irish," I heard a woman say this year, leaving some platform in Cork; -on her way, evidently, to a home in the States, where she had lived, -no doubt for many years, with the hard-faced, swaggering Yankee, who -accompanied her, and who looked with ill-concealed contempt on the -tears and emotions of the "poor soft Irish"; but she at least still -kept the homely tongue and kind heart. - -From Queenstown up to Cork is one of the loveliest waterways in the -world, little towns on either bank under the steep wooded shores, and -here and there some old castle. Cork itself may have no very great -architectural beauties, but the whole lie of the city, spread between -its hills, divided by the various streams of that delightful river, -makes a beauty of its own: you see it best from the high ground over -against the famous steeple where hang "the bells of Shandon that sound -so grand on the pleasant waters of the river Lee". - -"Pleasant" is the word for Cork, the county, and its soft-voiced, -quick-speaking people, with the odd little turn upwards at the end -of their sentence. It was called "the Athens of Ireland", though I -would say rather, the Naples: in any case, Cork has always sent out -far more than its share of brains. In the days of "Father Prout", who -wrote the "Bells of Shandon" and other immortal ditties, Cork had a -regular coterie of wits--among the best known being a Dowden, father -or grandfather of the illustrious man of letters who is to-day one of -the chief lights in Trinity College. The late Provost, Dr. Salmon, a -still greater luminary, came also from the southern county--as did -half a dozen more of the Fellows whose names are familiar enough to -all in Ireland; though some, perhaps, enriched legend and chronicle -rather than history, and survive as remembered oddities--after all, -not the least loveable of survivals. - -The south coast of Cork, from Youghal to the Kenmare River, is the -pick of Ireland for yachtsmen. Endless is the succession, from Cork -itself with all its lesser creeks and havens, Carrigalo, Carrigaline, -and Ringabella, on past Kinsale harbour, Courtmacsherry and Clonakilty -bays, Roscarbery, Glandore, and west to Baltimore and Roaring Water, -off which lies Cape Clear. Then past Mizen Head, on the west shore, -are greater bays, harbours not for yachts, but for navies--Dunmanus, -Bantry, and the Kenmare River, whose northern shore belongs to Kerry, -but which has a frontier certainly in paradise. - -I write of what I have seen, in the Kenmare River: all these southern -harbourages are to me only names on the map, save for the quaint -little bay of Roscarbery and the long winding creek of Baltimore--both -of which I know only as winter shows them, and shows them from -the land. Yet of the people of Roscarbery I form at least some -picture from the sketches drawn by the two ladies who relate the -varied _Experiences of an Irish R.M._--though West Cork needs to be -supplemented by knowledge of Connemara, to realize the scenes that -they have in mind. And from Baltimore, or rather from a mile outside -it, I carry away a picture of a congregation dividing after mass into -two rival political assemblies, and the one that I addressed consisted -largely of women wearing the great black cloak, with black hood giving -an odd framework to the wearer's face, which is one of the few and -cherished relics of traditional costume. I was told on good authority -(when I lamented myself) that if I had the women I had the votes, for -West Cork was in all matters under female governance. But of that I -cannot testify. - -Baltimore is one of the great fishing stations of Ireland, and to -it the population of Cape Clear comes for most necessaries of life. -Along that coast many craft are familiar, but an odd name hangs -about one set: the fishermen from near Dungarvan are always known as -"the Turks". In 1631 Algerine pirates made a descent on the town of -Baltimore, sacked it and carried a hundred of its folk into slavery: -and it was a fisherman from Dungarvan who (under threat of death) -piloted the corsairs. - -All this shore had fine natural advantages for smuggling which in old -days were not neglected: and still, I am told, certain places could -be named where cigars and wines of excellent quality can be had at -surprisingly moderate price. - -Kinsale is a greater haven, fit in old days to be the rival of Cork; -and the town there speaks of prosperous merchant folk, with its -quaint weather-slated houses, each having the little bow-window which -eighteenth-century mariners would seem to have specially affected, and -its very old-world bowling green. - -[Illustration: SHANDON STEEPLE, FROM THE RIVER LEE] - -Here was the theatre on which Ireland saw a great game played out--the -last and losing throw in the war of O'Neill and O'Donnell against the -forces of Elizabeth. At the long last, the promised help from the -Continent had come; a Spanish fleet under Don Juan d'Aquila entered -the harbour, seized and held the town, which was beleaguered by the -English (and Irish allies) under Mountjoy and Carew. O'Neill and -O'Donnell, marching down from the north, drew an outer line about -the besiegers, and on December 21st battle was joined. Tyrone would -have waited, wisely, till the siege could be raised by cutting the -English communications, and the force attacked on the march. But Red -Hugh was always bad at waiting, and forced the attack. The combination -failed, the Spaniards gave no help, and Mountjoy drove back the -Ulstermen. D'Aquila surrendered on good terms, and O'Donnell in hot -fury went to Spain to complain of his incompetence and to press for a -new expedition. But Elizabeth had her agents in Spain also, and one -of them did her such service as was freely rendered in those days. -O'Donnell drank a poisoned cup at Simancas, and died of it, and the -State Papers contain the poisoner's account of his own exploit and -demand for fitting payment. It was only after this that Carew was able -to write of _Pacata Hibernia_, an Ireland, where, in truth, he and his -had made a wilderness and called it peace. They themselves tell how -from the Rock of Cashel to Dingle Bay the voice of man or the lowing -of cattle could not be heard. - -Loveliest of all regions in Ireland, this country of Desmond has -suffered worst of all. Elizabeth's soldiers attempted here, and nearly -carried out, a complete extermination of the native race by the sword -and by starvation. And when after centuries the folk had multiplied -again and were, by universal testimony, gay even in their rags, the -famine of 1847 fell upon them, and in the blackest horrors of that -time Skibbereen and West Cork attained an awful notoriety. Nowhere -else did such heaps of famished and plague-stricken dead defy all -efforts even to bury them. - -The shadow of those days has not yet entirely passed: but the stranger -will see little of it, following the famous route which leads up the -Lee valley to Macroom (where the rail ends), and so past Inchigeela -and Ballingarry, past Gouganebarra by Keimaneigh, through the -mountains to Bantry and Glengariff. And here confession must be made. -I have never seen these famous beauties. I have followed the Lee only -to Inchigeela where it breaks into a score of channels between little -islands covered with scrub oak and birch and hazel, a piece of river -scenery whose like I never saw. And I have driven along the road from -Macroom to Killarney, along the Sullane River to Ballyvourney, which -tens of thousands know as "the metropolis of Irish-speaking Ireland". -For, as it chances, Cork alone, of the more prosperous counties, -has kept the Irish speech, and kept it in a form the least modified -by modern simplifications. Irish is still to-day the language of -well-to-do and well-educated men and women. My host at Ballyvourney -had received his education in Paris, more than that, had been through -all the Franco-Prussian war, and had seen more of the world than is -given to most men; but for many years he has been back, a kind of king -among his own people, and a real repository of the ancient scholarship -and traditions of the Gael. At Ballingeary, a few miles from him, was -founded the first of those "summer schools" where men and women, boys -and girls, of all sorts and conditions, and from many corners of the -world, unite for common study of the noble language which careless -generations had nearly suffered to die out. That settlement is now one -of the objects of interest on the coach road, and travellers, if not -tourists, may well find it the most interesting of all. - -Bantry is one of the great naval stations, one of the great recruiting -grounds for the navy. I saw it, as it should be seen, from the sea. -It, too, is associated with the memory of one of those failures which -stud the course of Irish history like sinister beacons: for here -Hoche with a fleet aimed to land in 1796, and here half of his fleet -actually arrived, with no one to oppose them. Hoche was then at the -pinnacle of his power and fame, an idealist of the early Republican -movement, consumed with that real passion for spreading freedom which -Napoleon was destined to replace by a very different conception. But -Hoche and half of the ships were tempest-driven far out of their -course, and it was Grouchy, the slow mover, the man of hesitations, -who reached the goal, and, having reached it, failed to act. History -hinges on odd chances. Humbert's achievements, two years later, with -a mere handful of men, when England had an army in Ireland, put it -beyond dispute that Grouchy, even with what he had, could have set on -foot a movement that would have driven English power out of Ireland -at least for a time: and Wellington himself has told how great a part -in breaking down the power of France, from those conflicts in the -Peninsula on to the climax of Waterloo, was borne by the unemancipated -Catholic Irish peasants, who formed the very bone and sinew of the -British line. - -It may well be that all was for the best in the best possible of -worlds: that it was best that Ireland, instead of freeing herself with -the help of Republican France, should help greatly to deliver Europe -from the menace of Imperial France--and hand it over to the tender -mercies of the Holy Alliance. Yet it needs the faith of Voltaire's -philosopher to believe that anything could have been worse for Ireland -than the historic evolution which she was actually fated to undergo. - -Beyond Bantry is Glengarriff, of which Thackeray wrote that "such a -bay, were it lying upon English shores, would be a world's wonder". -I have only seen it off the deck of a steamer, away in a smother of -cloud; but everyone confirms Thackeray. Castletown Beare, farther -west on the north shore of Bantry Bay, I have seen, and the Castle -of Dunboy, where was the seat of the O'Sullivan Beare, lord of this -region, from which after the rout at Kinsale he and his people fled -in a body, marching north amid dreadful privations till they crossed -the Shannon and ultimately reached some protection in Ulster. But -O'Sullivan's fighting men were left in the Castle under their captain -MacGeoghegan, who prolonged resistance to the point of desperation -against Carew's artillery. Mortally wounded at last, he succumbed -in an attempt to reach the magazine to blow all, assailants and -defenders, sky high. It would have been better for the garrison had -he succeeded, since Carew hanged every man of them. There is the ruin -to-day, breached and battered, standing in a grove of ilex on a very -beautiful promontory. - -That Castle of Dunboy gave its name to Froude's famous romance _The -Two Chiefs of Dunboy_--a romance founded on historic fact--perhaps not -more coloured in the telling than in the same author's volumes on the -history of Ireland. For here in this peninsula between Bantry Bay and -the Kenmare River, which was the special hold of the O'Sullivans, clan -loyalty and the clan name did not die out. Here as elsewhere, English -settlers were brought in as lords of the land, with enormous power -over the native Irish, whose loyalty still held to the representative -of their old chiefs. The O'Sullivans were chiefs now principally in -the extensive smuggling operations--and let it be remembered that -under the laws made by England to crush out Irish trade, contraband -was almost the one outlet for Irish commerce. If Irishmen wanted to -export the wool of their sheep, the hides of their cattle, the meat -that they salted, all this traffic was by law forbidden. Such laws -make smuggling necessary and beneficent, and the O'Sullivans on the -south of the Kenmare River, like the O'Connells on its northern shore, -brought in their cargoes of wine, tobacco, silks, and laces, and sent -back ships laden with wool. With those cargoes went out too that other -contraband, the supply of officers and men for the Irish brigade. The -English landlord-settler was the representative of English law, and -between him and the O'Sullivans conflict was certain. In 1754, Murtagh -Oge O'Sullivan shot the Puxley of that day. Law was moved to great -efforts, and two months later the O'Sullivan was surrounded in his -house at the village of Eyeries, and, after a desperate resistance, -driven out of it by fire: he tried to cut his way out but was shot -down in escaping. That was a great day for the law, and they towed -O'Sullivan's body by a rope at the stern of a king's ship to Cork, -where they cut his head off and spiked it over the city gate. - -[Illustration: ENTRANCE TO CORK HARBOUR] - -Irish memory keeps vividly the detail of such events, and you can -find men in that district to tell you the whole as if it had happened -yesterday. I heard it all, though at secondhand, on a sail from -the Kenmare River to Bantry, one night when the sea was all fire, and -the mackerel shoals dashing this way and that, made flashes like a -Catherine wheel, and porpoises or dolphins following them left long -trails of light on the surface with sudden sparkles wherever the great -fish came up to roll. Out to sea was the recurring flash of the Bull -Light, for which ships steer on their way from America; and though -there was no moon I could still distinguish this huge island rock, and -its neighbour the Cow. The Calf, where the light used to be, is lower, -and lies close in by Dursey Island--in that year much talked of, -for a party of police who had crossed to collect rents from the few -islanders, were effectively marooned, as the boat they had chartered -left them, and every other craft was suddenly spirited away. - -I think, perhaps, that night was lovelier on the Kenmare River--under -a sky ablaze with stars--than even the days of sun had been; but -nothing else in Ireland is so perfect, to my fancy, as this long, -narrow sea lough between the two mountainous peninsulas, and having -inland of it the full vista of those higher mountains which encircle -Killarney's lakes. - -On the Kenmare shore of the southern peninsula is Lord Lansdowne's -famous seat, Derreen, set among rivers and lakes, and backed with -mountains. Derreen means the little oak grove, and as Mr. Cooke -well observes in his _Murray_, the native wooding here escaped -"the general destruction" of the forest trees to feed the iron -furnaces of Sir William Petty, ancestor of the Lansdowne family. -Most of the woods of Ireland--and Munster was covered with timber in -Elizabeth's reign--were ruthlessly squandered in this way, during the -first century of English occupation, by grantees or purchasers of -confiscated land, whose one idea was a savage exploitation of what -could immediately be cashed. However, let it be said that Petty's -successors, coming into great part of the Desmond inheritance, and -adopting the Desmond name, Fitzmaurice, took high place among that -Irish nobility of the latter type. They were not absentees but -landowners with some sense of what was owing to their estates, and -with a sentiment to the country from which they drew their revenues, -which is best evidenced by their close friendship with Maria Edgeworth -and Thomas Moore. Yet it was always at Bowood, in Wiltshire, that Miss -Edgeworth and Moore knew the great Whig statesman and his belongings: -neither the poet nor the novelist ever penetrated to Derreen. - -Had they done so, they might have learnt more than ever either of -them came to realize about the greatest Irishman of their day--the -greatest power that has ever come out of purely Celtic Ireland in -modern times: for Iveragh, the peninsula over against Derreen, was the -birthplace and the home of Daniel O'Connell; it gave the climate and -the environment which determined him to what he was. - -I am not going to write much--because no writing can do it justice--of -Iveragh, which is bounded on the south by the Kenmare River, on the -north by Dingle Bay, on the west by the Atlantic Ocean (with the -Skelligs lying off in it), and on the east by Magillicuddy's Reeks and -the lakes of Killarney; which is set therefore in beauty and majesty -and splendour and has interest and charm at every turn of every road. -But I am going to write a little of Daniel O'Connell and his people, -for it is stupid to go to Kerry, and know nothing of the greatest -Kerryman that ever lived, only--first, a little practical geography. - - - - -IV - - -The train will take you to Kenmare, where the railway company -has a really comfortable hotel, in whose garden you will see the -characteristic subtropical vegetation which can be produced in -this climate--palms, yuccas, New Zealand flax with its sword-shaped -fronds, bamboos, and the rest, "all standing naked in the open air" -like the heathen goddesses in the Groves of Blarney. From Kenmare the -beautifully engineered road, which was a joy to man and beast till -heavy motor coaches began to destroy it, runs along the north shore of -the sea lough and a few miles out crosses the Kerry Blackwater by the -most picturesque bridge over the loveliest stream that anyone could -ever hope to throw a fly in. A little farther along is Parknasilla, -the big hotel which has been built at a point where the coast breaks -up into a number of wooded islets, with bridges connecting them, and -meandering walks--well, nothing could be prettier. Then you go along -through Sneem, getting into opener, wilder country. As you approach -West Cove, Staigue Fort is on your right, a great circular structure -of dry masonry, more developed than the similar buildings in Aran, for -it has chambers in the thickness of the wall and stairs leading to -platforms for defence. From this monument of prehistoric times, whose -date can be measured by thousands of years, look across to your left, -where another stone building is in progress--a large hospital designed -to benefit the poor folk of this district: the bounty of a lady -belonging to one of the families who profited by confiscation and for -too long drew absentee rents. What may be the success of the scheme -cannot be foretold: but the beauty of her desire to make restitution -is not the least among the beauties of the Kenmare River. - -At West Cove I have been lucky enough to stay with the man who knows -the west of Ireland in its present life and its past history better -perhaps than any living soul. In the great plot where cars draw up -outside his door, great plants of Arum lilies shoot up and flourish, -blooming luxuriantly in spring. They say that in Valentia an improving -gardener thought them too profuse in the Knight of Kerry's garden, -and pitched the roots out over the cliffs; but some caught on ledges, -fastened there, and sent up white lilies in niches of the crags--so -kind is that soft air. - -Two or three miles beyond West Cove is the village of Caherdaniel and -under it comes in Darrynane Bay, on whose shore is a little hotel, -simple enough, but friendly; lying among Irish fisher folk who gather -of a summer evening to dance on the crisp turf that covers the sand. -Beside it is a small wood, and in the wood is Darrynane, a place of -pilgrimage, for here O'Connell lived and here his descendants remain. -The case of the O'Connells was typical. Driven by Cromwell out of -the fertile lands of Limerick they took root among the mountains of -Kerry and of Clare. The builder of Darrynane--that is of the original -habitation--was a Daniel or Donal who married a daughter of the -O'Donoghues--another great Kerry clan. This lady--Máire Dubh--was a -fruitful mother of children--she bore twenty-two of them and brought -twelve to full age; but she was also notable as a poetess in the Irish -tongue. Her second son, Maurice, inherited Darrynane, and was known -all over the country as Hunting Cap O'Connell, for a tax was put on -beaver hats, and from that day he wore nothing but the velvet cap in -which he was used to hunt hare and fox on the mountains of Iveragh. -Daniel O'Connell, his nephew, was a great votary of that sport, and -I have talked with a man who had hunted in his company. And still in -autumn you may see the harriers out on these hills and a namesake and -descendant of his hallooing them on. - -[Illustration: KENMARE BAY, FROM TEMPLENOE] - -Old Hunting Cap as head of the family played a great part in his -nephew's youth, providing, it would seem, for the later stages of his -education. The early one was cheap enough, for he was fostered on the -mountains in the cabin of his father's herd (that tie of fosterage -bound Catholic Ireland together, gentle and simple, with a strange -intimacy), and he got his first lessons in one of the hedge schools -which flourished in defiance of penal laws. It was no less typical -of Catholic Ireland that he should go abroad to finish his training, -or that he should have a kinsman high placed in the service of France. -His father's younger brother, Count O'Connell, was the last colonel -of the Irish Brigade: and when he was consulted concerning a place to -send his nephews, in 1790, found himself much perplexed to answer, so -troubled was the state of all the Continent. Daniel and his brother -Maurice were sent first to the Jesuits at St. Omer; they were trained -to detest the revolution which was driving their uncle out of the -service of France: and soon the flood of turmoil drove them from Douay -whither they had moved. At Calais, they learnt the news of Louis XVI's -execution: on the boat were two passengers who spoke of it as willing -eyewitnesses. These men were Irish Protestants, the brothers Sheares, -afterwards executed for conspiracy. It is very notable that although -Protestant Ireland, especially in Ulster, was much affected by the -revolutionary and republican doctrines, these found very little echo -in the Catholic part of the nation--and none at all among survivors of -the old Catholic gentry, such as the O'Connells. Yet when the young -O'Connell settled down to read for the bar in London, harsh measures -of repression and the violent Toryism of that day soon drove him into -revolt. He had a genuine hatred of oppression, of unfair play: later -in life this devoutest of Roman Catholics was the most powerful -advocate of equality for the Jews. - -However, this is no place to talk of the great orator's career or his -triumphs. To his own folk in Kerry he was always "the Counsellor", -the wonderful advocate whose genius was like a flaming sword drawn -for the terrified prisoner. No other Irish leader has ever been so -near akin to the common folk; it was not for nothing he suckled -the breast of a Kerry peasant, and learnt to speak his first words -in the Irish tongue. Yet, oddly enough and pathetically enough, -so little of a "nationalist" in our modern sense was he, that he -welcomed and encouraged the growing disuse of Irish speech; all -diversity of tongues seemed hateful to him, in his eighteenth-century -cosmopolitanism. But no man was ever more in love with Ireland, or -more devoted to one spot of earth than he to his Darrynane. He wrote -to Walter Savage Landor of himself that he "was born within the sound -of the everlasting wave", and that his "dreamy boyhood fed its fancies -upon the ancient and long-faded glories of that land which preserved -Christianity when the rest of now civilized Europe was shrouded in the -darkness of godless ignorance". - - "Perhaps," he went on, "if I could show you the calm and - exquisite beauty of these capacious bays and mountain - promontories, softened in the pale moonlight which shines - this lovely evening, till all which during the day - was grand and terrific has become serene in the silent - tranquillity of the clear night--perhaps you would readily - admit that the man who has so often been called a ferocious - demagogue is in truth a gentle lover of nature, an - enthusiast of all her beauties 'fond of each gentle and each - dreary scene', and catching from the loveliness as well as - from the dreariness of the ocean and the Alpine scenes with - which it is surrounded, a greater ardour to procure the good - of man in his overwhelming admiration of the mighty works of - God." - -That was how O'Connell thought of Kerry; and as you drive on from -Caherdaniel along the high pass of Coomakista, which brings you out -across a shoulder of mountain from the view across Kenmare River to -a wider outlook full west on the Atlantic--why, you will have some -inkling of the sublimity which he felt. - -Below you is the little harbour to and from which the O'Connells -worked their smuggling craft; and you can discern a narrow cleft in -the rocks making a short cut for row boats on a calm day. Once, they -say, a sloop of the smugglers lay in the harbour and was suddenly -aware of a revenue brig rounding the headland from the south. The wind -blew into the harbour. It was impossible to escape, and the sloop -lay motionless and to all appearance idle. But just as the pursuer -tacked and ran straight into the harbour mouth a sail was hoisted on -the sloop, she began to move, and in a minute her sides were scraping -through the tiny passage, while men with sweeps out fended her off -this and that sunken rock; and in another minute she was out and -away, cracking on full sail with a good half-hour's lead before the -revenue boat could beat out of the narrow sound to chase her. - -[Illustration: MACGILLICUDDY'S REEKS] - -From Coomakista the road descends steeply to Waterville, a famous -place for anglers, where a new town has grown up about the outlet to -Lough Currane, for here is now the chief station of the transatlantic -cables. The first of these cables was laid from Valentia Island some -ten miles farther north opposite the town of Cahirciveen, which will -be your destination if you purpose to return by rail along the shore -of Dingle Bay. But I commend to all, motorist, cyclist, or foot -traveller (if such a one be left in these degenerate days), another -way of exploring Iveragh. Also, if the sea is not your enemy, it is -worth while to stay in Waterville--where the sea as well as the lake -offer great chance to fishers--and try an expedition to the Skellig -Rocks. Fine weather is needed, for there is difficulty in landing on -these astonishing places where the gannets are the chief habitants: -strong flyers, they nest nowhere between this point and the Bass Rock -in Scotland, yet you may see them by dozens anywhere along the west -coast even in the breeding season. On the Skelligs are old stone -stairs of tremendous height, the work of old-time anchorite monks who -established themselves here in stone beehive-shaped cells--still -intact, for you to wonder at the discomforts of piety. And in the -crevices of these rocks rare birds breed--the stormy petrel, the Manx -shearwater, along with legions of puffin, guillemot, razorbill, shag, -and the rest. But do not go there even with a light easterly wind, for -it blows direct on to the rocky landing place; and if it blows at all -from the south-west the swell may be too big even on the sheltered -side. Nature is on a big scale, a rough playfellow, out here in the -Atlantic. - -Even landward from Lough Currane, it is a wild nature that you must -encounter on the old mountain road to Killarney, which you should -travel for choice. - -This way follows up the valley of the Eany River (but you may take the -main road skirting Lough Currane and turn in west to this same valley -at Owroe bridge) to the pass of _Bealach Oisin_ (Ossian's Track) -between Coolee and Knocknagapple. At the crest one must be close on a -thousand feet up, and the view back over Ballinskelligs bay with the -Atlantic beyond, to which the eye is led by a long winding thread of -river between steep mountain sides, is a splendid prospect. Once over -the neck, sea, river, and tilled land all disappear: nothing is seen -but heath and rock and mountain. On the right is the high ridge which -makes the backbone of Iveragh: in front of you the Reeks fill the -eastern sky. Not a house can be seen--and there are very few places -in Ireland (so thickly scattered are people over the poorest land) -from which human habitation cannot be discerned. - -A few miles down brings you into the valley of the Caragh river which -flows out from Loughs Reagh and Cloon and after a course of some ten -miles enters the long and deep Caragh Lake, whence another short run -brings it to the sea. This is the valley which lies west of the Reeks, -and, for my own part, I count this aspect of them finer than anything -you will see at Killarney. There is a big, new hotel at the outfall -of Caragh Lake on the railway, much frequented now: but all my time -among these hills and waters has been given to a little oldfashioned -anglers' inn, the Glencar hotel, on the reach of river between -Bealalaw bridge and Lickeen rapids. Here you may fish for salmon at a -nominal charge in one of the best waters in Ireland: on the evening -when I got there this summer, they were jumping everywhere in the -beautiful Long Range pool where the little Caragh joins the main -stream; red, ugly fish, it must be owned, for this was in September -and they had lain there since June without a fresh to move them--but -still there were salmon and plenty of them. Or you can fish free of -charge at Lough Acoose at the headwaters of Caraghbeg, in under the -flank of Carrantuohil, with better prospect of a full basket than -anywhere else known to me. The trout are not big anywhere in Kerry, -but in Acoose they run to a good herring size, and the man who fished -it the day when I was at Glencar got something over two dozen--a usual -bag. My companion and I had gone farther afield, to the headwaters of -Caragh itself, right up into the great ring of mountains through which -the pass of Bealachbeama lets you out to the Kenmare side. Little need -be said about our fishing, which was interrupted by the fact that our -boat, leaking like a sieve, finally foundered while we were trying -to get her ashore--a new boat too, wanting nothing but a couple of -good coats of paint. Yet the chance which drove us off Cloon, while -the boat was being got ashore and emptied, sent us up across a mile -of bog to fish the upper lake from the shore; and what a lake! lying -right in under the steep side of a mountain almost precipitous, where -the eagles built till a year or two back, and for three parts of its -circumference ringed about like the crater of a volcano. - -It was a day of dry wind, northerly to north-easterly, and of hard -lights: one lacked the magical enchantment of westerly air over the -whole: yet for sheer grandeur I do not know that all my wanderings -after fish in Ireland have ever taken me to so fine a scene. - -[Illustration: THE GAP OF DUNLOE, KILLARNEY] - -That little hotel, primitive in its equipment but most friendly, has -its attractions to offer all the year round, for the salmon fishing -begins in earnest in February, and through the winter months there is -rough shooting (grouse, cock, and snipe), to be had over the great -expanses of heather and those broad belts of native wooding which -grow about the river in its lower course. From the hotel down to the -lake your path lies between this scrub of oak and holly and birch and -a water, swift yet deep, where pool succeeds pool, each divided from -the next only by strong rapids. You have no monopoly there: the river -is fished from both banks and can be covered right across, though it -needs a good man to do it; but it is practically a free fishing and -the best free river fishing that I know in Ireland--absolutely an -ideal spot for the holiday-maker who does not insist on being near the -sea. You can walk from it all the finest mountains in Kerry since it -lies in the very centre: and away west of you is Glenbeigh, another -valley where decent quarters can be had amid landscape of the same -type. Of the same type--but I cannot believe that anywhere in Kerry or -out of it you will match the journey which convoyed me from Glencar -to my next stage at the Caragh Lake hotel. It was inland scenery no -doubt, but the breath and the feeling of the sea is over all this -neck of sea-washed Iveragh, and that river valley seemed no more -than an avenue through the hills leading to the gateway of ocean. -We walked along the river bank, often shoulder high in fern, often -stopping to pull the blackberry clusters, and we studied the pools -set in, here among trees, there with open sward on both sides and -moor stretching away behind. Below the rapids we took boat, and for a -mile or more rowed through level bogland, with groups of Scotch fir, -purple stemmed in the afternoon light, rising from the river bank. -Between their trunks, or in the open gaps, we could see the peaked -mass of Carrantuohil, rising in the south-east, the light on its high -ridges, but the valleys and chasms on its sides deep in shadow. As -we neared the lake the flat land broadened, and from across it came -the aromatic, pungent smell of bog myrtle, distinct as the scent from -a beanfield, but strong and tonic as brine. Then for an hour and -half we paddled down the lake between mountain and mountain, winding -round promontory after promontory into sight of reach after reach of -the lake. Finally as we entered the wide northern stretch--for our -course was due north--all the shore was seen divided into demesnes, -big and little, each with its own wooding. The hotel lies farthest of -all towards the river's outflow in the north-west, and whoever chose -that site deserves credit, for across the wide shining water rise the -whole ring of mountains--Carrantuohil away to the south-east, and -all the other heights that close in the valley behind Cloon Lake and -Bealachbeama spreading fan-wise across the horizon as you look out -from the pleasant terrace where palm and hydrangea grow. It is not so -finished, not so exquisite, as Killarney; but I should rather choose -it for a holiday. I sat on the terrace for an hour that Sunday and -watched the sunlight fade off Carrantuohil: all was green and olive -when we sat down, for it was a coldish evening and the air northerly; -but cloud lay on the peaks, or rather caught the peaks intermittently -as it drifted in wreaths across, so that at no time was the whole -mountain visible. But gradually as the sun sank these wreaths became -touched with a rosy glow, and below them what had been olive-green -took on deep tints of coppery purple, rich and glowing, the purple -gaining as the rose deepened on the cloud wreath; and higher and -higher the shaft of light struck, reaching now only the very topmost -pinnacles, till finally it faded out, and all lay before as in a -sombre stillness waiting for the fall of night. - -Nothing that I carry away from Killarney haunts me with the same -fullness of beauty, but perhaps only because Killarney is no one's -discovery; it has no secret lover. You might as well seek to praise -Sarah Bernhardt's genius or Tennyson's charm of style. Yet I suppose -each one will discern for himself some passing perfection, some -special facet of that loveliness--as I indeed remember the wonderful, -shadowed, lucid green of water reflecting darkly the bank of tall -reeds which grow westward of the landing stage to which we rowed in -after fishing: and remember, too, the singular sight of a man's naked -body, as he stood poised before plunging in to bathe, some hundred -yards from us; for the low sun caught his figure, outlined against the -long line of dark foliage behind him, and made it at once the glowing -centre of a beautiful landscape. - -This was on the lower lake, largest by far of the three which form -a crescent, compassing from south to north (as the water runs) the -eastern flank of the Reeks. - -My last visit found me at the Victoria Hotel where the lake is broad -and open to the Purple Mountain, a noble landscape: but to reach what -is my idea of Killarney proper, you must row across to the narrows -between the lovely isle of Inisfallen and the east shore, so reaching -Ross Bay and a more confined water, studded over with island rocks. -Here the shores are of that peculiar limestone which the lapping of -water frets into numberless quaint crannies and fissures till the -verge of the water looks as though it were a frame intricately carved -by some patient craftsman; and in all these chinks and crevices ferns -and other wild and beautiful herbage grow with exquisite profusion. -That is what makes to my mind the essence of Killarney's charm, this -wealth of intricate detail making a foreground to mountain and lake -scenery as bold and wild as any highlands can show. Add to this -the presence of unfamiliar foliage, here native, exotic everywhere -else--notably the arbutus with its dark, glossy leaf and ruddy stem, -handsomest of all shrubs; dark yew also, and juniper, mingled in with -native growth of oak and birch, yet through all, skilful plantation -has set in this and that graceful foreign tree, this and that bright -berry. It is no wonder that such a place should have become one of -the world's great tourist centres, especially when to these beauties -are added the distinction and interest of fine ruins--Ross Castle -where the O'Donoghues were lords till Cromwell's forces drove them -out; Inisfallen where St. Finian's pious monks had their abbey through -untroubled centuries. And, being as it is, Killarney is equipped for -the tourist as is no other place in Ireland: all the excursions have -been thought and planned, and your hotelkeeper will have arrangements -fully made; nor is the plague of beggars at all the annoyance that -it used to be--a blessed reform. The boatmen have learnt their trade -of cicerone to perfection, and will not only tell you the standard -yarns and jests and legends of the place if you desire them, but -will have the tact to discriminate serious-minded folk--such as -anglers--who may probably not want this form of entertainment. - -[Illustration: MUCKROSS LAKE, KILLARNEY] - -Yet, for all that, it is a place for tourists, and, as such, commands -only my reluctant tribute. But the drive from Killarney to Kenmare -which, skirting Muckross and the upper lake, carries you gradually -circling round the whole crescent till you rise into the Black Valley -where the Gap of Dunloe breaks in--well, that drive, I must say, -fairly broke down my coldness: I grew no less enthusiastic than the -famous Scottish expert on salmon fishing who was of the party and -declared the whole thing equal to the Trossachs--from which I gather -that Scotland at least has not anything to show more fair. Moreover, -fishing on the lakes is free and good; there is a chance of salmon, -and trout are both plenty and sizeable. That is to say, on a good day -they should average close on half a pound, and this means that a pound -fish is no great rarity--as he certainly would be in Glencar. Also in -Killarney town you have the best fly tier in Ireland; many a friend of -mine in Donegal who never saw Kerry could swear to Mr. Courtney's work -in this delicate craft, almost an art in itself. - -But that is all I have to say about "Heaven's reflex, Killarney". - - - - -V - - -My last visit to Kerry was on a commission of enquiry into fisheries -which took us driving round in motors to places off the usual track; -and a railway strike came in, to complete our survey of West Munster. -We had come up from Waterville, along the backbone of the peninsula, -crossing Bealach Oisin, so that the coast road by Dingle Bay is known -to me now only by far-off memory of a forty-miles drive in a long -car--which the railway has for many years superseded. But I revived my -memory of a bit of it, coming up in the morning from Caragh Lake to -Killorglin, where we held our court, at the outfall of the Lowne which -drains the lakes of Killarney. Opposite us across the bay was that -other mountainous region of Corcaguiney, the Dingle Peninsula, which -differs from Iveragh in this, that from the high point of the Reeks -Iveragh slopes westward by a gradual declension of peaks and ridges; -whereas Corcaguiney rises continuously westward and seaward till it -reaches its climax in Brandon Hill rising majestically from the very -limit of the land. So rises Mweelrea at the mouth of Killery, and I -imagine that on a clear day from Brandon's top you would see Mweelrea, -and from Mweelrea again might distinguish the peak of Errigal far -north in Donegal. At all events I knew an old gentleman who told me -that he had seen the whole length of Ireland in one field of vision, -and he took either Mweelrea or Croagh Patrick as his midland centre -and Errigal or Brandon (or the Reeks) as his two extremes. - -This Dingle Peninsula is explored by very few, unexplored by me, alas! -I could see from the road the dark outline of Cahirconree, a wonderful -stone fort, built two thousand feet up on the side of the Sliabh -Mish mountains: and away out to the west the Blasket Islands were in -sight, hardly more accessible than the Skelligs, but inhabited by a -race of Irish-speaking fisher folk, among whom a Norse student of the -Celtic languages settled himself the other day and was overjoyed to -find a stone inscription in Runic characters, containing the mind of -some Scandinavian forebear of his own, set down in the Norse that was -spoken a thousand years ago and had waited ten centuries for him to -decipher it. - -Under Brandon, on the extreme west of the peninsula, lies Smerwick -Bay, where in Elizabeth's reign a small detachment of Spaniards landed -and established themselves; their earthworks at Fort del Oro (so -called because Frobisher was wrecked there with a cargo of pyrites -which he took to be gold) can be traced easily. Kingsley in _Westward -Ho!_ has dealt, not overfaithfully, with the story of that enterprise -which ended in the wholesale butchery of combatants who surrendered -at discretion--suggesting, very unworthily, that the brutal deed was -excused by its deterrent effect. We have never heard that it stopped -the landing at Kinsale not many years later. There is ground to hope -that Raleigh has been wrongfully charged with the actual perpetration -of that black deed. But in truth the blackest chapter in all Irish -history is precisely that which deals with the Desmond wars under -Elizabeth, which ended in the complete devastation of this lovely -province. Not far from Tralee they show you the spot where the last -Earl of Desmond was captured and the rough mound a little way from it -that marks his grave: and still when the moaning of wind and wave is -heard over that countryside, they call it the Desmond's keene. - -[Illustration: BRICKEEN BRIDGE, LOWER LAKE, KILLARNEY] - -To escape from all this record of civilized barbarity, the mind gladly -turns back to far older and by far less barbarous days. Brandon -keeps the name of the most picturesque figure in the long roll of -Irish saints--St. Brendan, the Navigator, who was born a little west -of Tralee, at Barra, close to the promontory of Fenit, in or about -the year 484. He was baptized by a bishop named Erc, whose name -still lingers in Termon Eirc, a townland three miles north of -Ardfert: and a well near Ardfert which keeps St. Brendan's name is -still a place of pilgrimage and votive offering, more specially on -the saint's own day. Under Erc's guidance the lad was brought up, -though he got some of his schooling at Killeady, the convent where -St. Ita had established her religious house near Newcastle West in -county Limerick. Later, Erc sent him to travel that he might "see -the lives of some of the holy fathers in Erin"; and he went north to -Connacht where the school of St. Jarlath at Tuam was already famous -(as Archbishop Healy, who sits in St. Jarlath's chair to-day, tells -with natural pride in his book on the _Ancient Schools and Scholars -of Ireland_, which I am pillaging, not for the first time). He went -farther north still in Connacht, and is said to have established a -settlement of Kerrymen in the plains near Castlebar; but he returned -to Kerry to get his priestly orders from the hands of his tutor Erc, -now nearing death. - -"It was probably at this time," says Archbishop Healy, "that St. -Brendan built his oratory on the summit of Brandon hill", and there -was fired with the project of setting sail across the Atlantic in -search of a Promised Land--_Tir-nan-Og_, the Country of the Young. -For there on Brandon top, a man can see--even without the vision of -faith--"over half the south of Ireland, mountain and valley, lake and -stream, plain and town, stretching far away to the east and south. -But the eye ever turns seaward to the grand panorama presented by the -ultimate ocean." Brendan from his watch tower - - "Saw it in all its varying moods--but above all, at even, - when the setting sun went to his caverns below the sea, - and the line of light along the glowing west seemed a road - to the Fortunate Islands where the sorrows of earth never - enter, and peace and beauty for ever dwell. It was a dim - tradition of man's lost paradise, floating down the stream - of time, for with curious unanimity the poets and sages both - of Greece and Rome spoke of these Islands of the Blessed - as located somewhere in the Western Ocean. The same idea - from the earliest times has taken strong hold of the Celtic - imagination, and reveals itself in many strange tales, which - were extremely popular, especially with the peasantry on - the western coast. To this day the existence of Hi Brasail, - an enchanted land of joy and beauty, is very confidently - believed by our western fishermen. It is seen from Aran once - every seven years, as Brendan saw it in olden times, like a - fairy city on the far horizon's verge." - -According to the records, Brendan was not first on this quest. -Barinthus, a neighbouring monk, had fared seaward in search of a -truant brother and had found him in the island called "Delicious", -from which they sailed yet farther west and found other wonders. But -at all events, however moved, Brendan bade his monks to fast with him -forty days, then choosing fourteen of them, he built a great curragh, -with ribs and frame of willow, hide-covered, and so with forty days -of provisions they set out upon the trackless sea, steering for the -"summer solstice". - -Seven years that voyage lasted: they reached island after island in -the Atlantic main, "following God's guidance, fed by his Providence, -and protected by his power". At length, it is said, they reached the -continent of America and found the place where they landed "to be -indeed a delicious country abounding in everything to gratify the -palate and please the eye"; and they were about to push across the -swift, silvery current that had borne them to the verge of this land, -when an angel rose before their path and bid them turn homeward, -instead of resting to enjoy. And so back to Ireland came Brendan the -Navigator, the travelled Ulysses among Irish saints. - -What lies behind all this, who knows exactly? but certainly those -dwellers on the outermost verge of Europe always had vague yet -glorious rumours of a land beyond the sea--a land in truth whose -flotsam and jetsam, strange nuts and weeds, the ocean current casts -from time to time on their shores. And heaven knows, that this -Western people, since Columbus brought promise into fulfilment and -imagining into sure knowledge, have found in the west there a haven, -a refuge from the miseries into which they were born. America has -been a strange and often a sinister realization of the Fortunate -Islands--yet conceive of Ireland's history for the past century -without America to lean on, to look to for help. Its streets have not -been paved with gold, no easily-won sustenance has been there: yet to -the fisher folk and farmers it has offered the fulfilment of desire, -the enlargement of aspiration; and the course that St. Brendan first -charted, though it is more frequented now than could be wished, though -it leads often enough to unhappy wreckage, has yet been to Ireland a -blessed road. - -[Illustration: HOLY ISLAND, LOUGH DERG] - -No man who visits this Atlantic seaboard of Ireland but must feel -something of what Archbishop Healy's eloquence hints at--the sense -of an open gateway beyond the sun-track through which imagination -is beckoned towards its own goal. There is a soothing and restful -influence from those vast spaces of the west. And even landward -it follows you. We crossed the neck of the Dingle Peninsula to -the pretty and prosperous town of Tralee, and all eastern Kerry -merging into Limerick stretched away to right of us, a wide rolling -expanse of land well divided into fields for tillage. Our course lay -still on north-east to Listowel, crossing the tract of land which -divides Tralee Bay from the Shannon's broad estuary; all about us, -the country was spacious, yet well inhabited, set thick with trim -little farmhouses: there was much traffic on the roads, of horse and -man--and of asses: I saw there what is not common, two donkeys -driven abreast in a little cart, stepping very smart down a long hill. -There was plenty of room for the people, yet the people were there--on -the land, living by the land, with the large air of the Atlantic -blowing in across them. Next day, since the trains were not running, -we had to proceed by motor to Limerick, and we simply ran north to -the Shannon shore at Tarbert and followed the river to Limerick for -a matter of forty miles, stretch by stretch, a broad sea lane for -vessels, but alas! no vessels there: hardly a sail on the waters; -though battleships can lie at Foynes, thirty miles in from Loop Head. - -There is much to pause over on that route: Glin, where the hereditary -Knights of Glin, an offshoot of the Desmond Geraldines, have -maintained themselves, for a matter of seven centuries, even through -the "pacifications" of Elizabeth's reign: Askeaton, many miles farther -on, a chief seat of the main Desmond line, and in Ireland--so rich -in ruins, so poor in buildings that have escaped destruction--there -are few finer ruins than the Desmond Castle here, and the Franciscan -Abbey. Still nearer Limerick, at Carrigagunnel, you see the landmark -of another power, for this castle was built by the O'Briens of Thomond -and it stood over against Bunratty on the Clare bank, another great -fortress.--Yet a mere catalogue is without interest, and here is -no space to trace the interlocking fortunes and conflicts of Norman -noble, Irish chief, and Cromwellian soldier. - -Let me concentrate on one spot, one group of memories. Above the -little town of Foynes is a small house on a hill, now beautifully -surrounded by plantations of shrubs and flowers; it was the home of -a lady known to the Irish people at home and abroad, for her work -in improving the lot of steerage passengers on emigrant ships, and -also for her writings in prose and verse; yet known better as the -true child of a notable father, William Smith O'Brien, Protestant, -landlord, aristocrat, rebel, and felon by the law. She was one who -felt and loved the beauty of Ireland--not only what one may call the -scenic beauty of such places as Killarney, but the essential spacious -beauty of those fertile valleys, those wide skies. - - "Men come and go by this great river," she wrote, "and the - revelation of its beauty is not made to them fully, often - not at all; but let one live by it and it is the most - beautiful place in the whole world.... But to-night it was - no hidden beauty. I went down by the river in the evening. - It was full, the tide just past the turn, and sweeping down - the great mass of water at an extraordinary pace, and yet, - though the whole river was swinging along at many miles - an hour, the surface was a marvellous mirror. The glowing - masses of furze on the island, a quarter-mile away, were so - near and distinct in the wave, one could almost stretch out - a hand to gather them. Every cloud and every shade of light - and colour in the sky was again in the river, but far more - intense. At my feet and twenty yards down and across the - channel was a dense black cloud reflected, its crenellated - edge cut sharp against the reflection of silver, blue, - grey, and intense white light stretching far away westward. - I stood, as the old books used to say, 'entranced', and - still the river swept down, and still the furze and the - wonderful green and the dark cloud-bar were, as it were, - under my hand, and the glorious 'gates of the Shannon', as - the Elizabethans called this Foynes, were opened to heaven's - light beyond my touch." - -From the road just beyond Foynes towards Limerick, you shall see a -round hill topped by a ruin and the tokens of a graveyard. There in -the high windy burial-place of her choice she lies, this lover of -Ireland and of the Shannon, Charlotte Grace O'Brien. And for the last -word in this little book, I, her near kinsman, whose main ties are -with other provinces, shall set down another passage of her writings, -which is curiously revealing of Munster. For behind Knockpatrick you -may see a few miles farther off another low hill which is topped -by a well-marked mound, and on the mound a great mass of shattered -masonry stands, "like a black clenched fist thrust against the western -heavens". That is Shanid, the original stronghold of the southern -Geraldines: "Shanid aboo", was their war-cry. - -To this place Charlotte O'Brien, who loved flowers hardly less even -than other live things, came to look for a reported rare plant--"The -Virgin Mary's Thistle", "so-called because the leaves are all blotched -and marbled with white stains, and legend made it a sacred plant -bearing for ever stains of the Blessed Virgin's milk". - - "Sure enough," she wrote, "I found a mass of it growing - together only on the southern exposure under the great - wall. Now this plant is said to exist only as an introduced - species in the British Isles. To account for it, therefore, - on this utterly lonely and desolate hilltop, we must look - back through the centuries and see the sacred plant in - the monastery garden at Askeaton--the first Geraldine - home in Desmond. We must think how the seed may--in fact, - must--have been carried up to this watch tower, perhaps - by some long-haired daughter of the Geraldines, sent for - safety to the mountain fortress. We must imagine how its - frail growth (only annual) took hold on the sheltered side; - we must see generation after generation of men swept away, - the monastery torn down and desecrated, the name of Desmond - almost forgotten, the great Geraldine race broken and - destroyed: we must see the almost impregnable castle blown - to pieces and left as a trampling ground for summer-heated - cattle; more wonderful than all, we must realize that - time has so gone, that no record is left us of that great - downfall and destruction--nothing--nothing but a few pieces - of nine-foot-thick wall, a few earth mounds, and the sacred - plant. Irishmen! What national history lies in one seed of - that plant!" - -True enough! And true it is that to feel the real beauty of Ireland, -her mountains and valleys, her fields and waters, you must see them in -the light of the past as well as the present, informed by knowledge -and by love. - - -PRINTED IN GREAT BRITAIN -_At the Villafield Press, Glasgow, Scotland_ - - - - -Transcriber's Notes - -Minor punctuation errors were silently corrected. Illustrations were -moved to paragraph breaks. - -Page 24: Changed Roscarberry to Roscarbery. - - - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Munster, by Stephen Lucius Gwynn - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MUNSTER *** - -***** This file should be named 44046-8.txt or 44046-8.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/4/0/4/44046/ - -Produced by sp1nd, Diane Monico, and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, -set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to -copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to -protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. Project -Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you -charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. If you -do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the -rules is very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose -such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and -research. They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do -practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks. Redistribution is -subject to the trademark license, especially commercial -redistribution. - - - -*** START: FULL LICENSE *** - -THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE -PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK - -To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free -distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work -(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project -Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project -Gutenberg-tm License available with this file or online at - www.gutenberg.org/license. - - -Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works - -1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to -and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property -(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all -the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy -all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession. -If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the -terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or -entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8. - -1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be -used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who -agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few -things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works -even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See -paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement -and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic -works. See paragraph 1.E below. - -1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation" -or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the -collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an -individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are -located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from -copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative -works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg -are removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project -Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by -freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of -this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with -the work. You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by -keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project -Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others. - -1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern -what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in -a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check -the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement -before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or -creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project -Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no representations concerning -the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United -States. - -1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: - -1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate -access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently -whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the -phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project -Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, -copied or distributed: - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - -1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived -from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is -posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied -and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees -or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a work -with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the -work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 -through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the -Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or -1.E.9. - -1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted -with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution -must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional -terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked -to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the -permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work. - -1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm -License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this -work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. - -1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this -electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without -prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with -active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project -Gutenberg-tm License. - -1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, -compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any -word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or -distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than -"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version -posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org), -you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a -copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon -request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other -form. Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm -License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. - -1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, -performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works -unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. - -1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing -access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided -that - -- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from - the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method - you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is - owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he - has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the - Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments - must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you - prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax - returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and - sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the - address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to - the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." - -- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies - you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he - does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm - License. You must require such a user to return or - destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium - and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of - Project Gutenberg-tm works. - -- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any - money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the - electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days - of receipt of the work. - -- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free - distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. - -1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set -forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from -both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael -Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the -Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. - -1.F. - -1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable -effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread -public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm -collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic -works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain -"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or -corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual -property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a -computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by -your equipment. - -1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right -of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project -Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all -liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal -fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT -LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE -PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE -TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE -LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR -INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH -DAMAGE. - -1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a -defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can -receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a -written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you -received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with -your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with -the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a -refund. If you received the work electronically, the person or entity -providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to -receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy -is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further -opportunities to fix the problem. - -1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth -in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO OTHER -WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO -WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. - -1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied -warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages. -If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the -law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be -interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by -the applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of any -provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions. - -1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the -trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone -providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance -with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production, -promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works, -harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees, -that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do -or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm -work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any -Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause. - - -Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm - -Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of -electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers -including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists -because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from -people in all walks of life. - -Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the -assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's -goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will -remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure -and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations. -To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation -and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4 -and the Foundation information page at www.gutenberg.org - - -Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive -Foundation - -The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit -501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the -state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal -Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification -number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg -Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent -permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. - -The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S. -Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered -throughout numerous locations. Its business office is located at 809 -North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887. Email -contact links and up to date contact information can be found at the -Foundation's web site and official page at www.gutenberg.org/contact - -For additional contact information: - Dr. Gregory B. Newby - Chief Executive and Director - gbnewby@pglaf.org - -Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg -Literary Archive Foundation - -Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide -spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of -increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be -freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest -array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations -($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt -status with the IRS. - -The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating -charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United -States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a -considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up -with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations -where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To -SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any -particular state visit www.gutenberg.org/donate - -While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we -have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition -against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who -approach us with offers to donate. - -International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make -any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from -outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. - -Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation -methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other -ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. -To donate, please visit: www.gutenberg.org/donate - - -Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic -works. - -Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm -concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared -with anyone. For forty years, he produced and distributed Project -Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. - -Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed -editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. -unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily -keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. - -Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: - - www.gutenberg.org - -This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, -including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to -subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. |