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diff --git a/43997-8.txt b/43997-8.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 9fe3118..0000000 --- a/43997-8.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10999 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Wanderings in India, by John Lang - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: Wanderings in India - And Other Sketches of Life in Hindostan - -Author: John Lang - -Release Date: October 22, 2013 [EBook #43997] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WANDERINGS IN INDIA *** - - - - -Produced by Moti Ben-Ari and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - - - - - - - - - WANDERINGS IN INDIA. - - - - - WANDERINGS IN INDIA: - And other Sketches - OF - LIFE IN HINDOSTAN. - - By JOHN LANG, - AUTHOR OF "EX-WIFE," "WILL HE MARRY HER?" - - LONDON: - ROUTLEDGE, WARNE, & ROUTLEDGE, - FARRINGDON STREET; - - NEW YORK: 56, WALKER STREET. - - 1861. - - [_The Author reserves the right of Translation._] - - - - -PREFACE. - - - The greater part of the Papers which form this Volume - have appeared in "HOUSEHOLD WORDS;" and the Author has to - acknowledge his thanks to Mr. DICKENS for sanctioning a reprint - of them. - - LONDON, _July 15th, 1859_. - - - - -CONTENTS. - - - PAGE - THE HIMALAYA CLUB 1 - THE MAHOMMEDAN MOTHER 30 - BLACK AND BLUE 59 - THE RANEE OF JHANSI 84 - TIRHOOT, LUCKNOW, BHITOOR, ETC 97 - THE UPPER PROVINCES 120 - MARCHING 143 - THE MARCH CONTINUED 173 - THE INDIAN SOCIETY 200 - THE UPPER PROVINCES 226 - CHURCHYARDS, ETC 251 - THE HIMALAYAS 286 - RETURNING 315 - MISCELLANEOUS 341 - FORWARD 360 - MILITARY MATTERS; SIMLAH, &c 377 - TANTIA TOPEE 410 - - - - -WANDERINGS IN INDIA. - - -THE HIMALAYA CLUB. - - -It is some eighteen years since this institution was founded, at -Mussoorie, one of the chief sanataria in the Himalaya mountains. Here -all those who can obtain leave, and who can afford the additional -expense, repair to escape the hot weather of the plains. The season -begins about the end of April, and ends about the first week in -October. The club is open to the members of the civil and military -services, to the members of the bar, the clergy, and to such other -private gentlemen as are on the Government House list, which signifies, -"in society." The club-house is neither an expensive nor an elegant -edifice, but it answers the purposes required of it. It has two large -rooms, one on the ground-floor, and the other on the upper story. The -lower room, which is some sixty feet long by twenty-five wide, is the -dining-room, breakfast-room, and reception-room. The upper room is the -reading and the ball-room. The club has also its billiard-room, which -is built on the ledge of a precipice; and its stables, which would -astonish most persons in Europe. No horses except those educated in -India, would crawl into these holes cut out of the earth and rock. - -Facing the side-door is a platform about forty yards long by fifteen -feet wide; and from it, on a clear day, the eye commands one of the -grandest scenes in the known world. In the distance are plainly visible -the eternal snows; at your feet are a number of hills, covered with -trees of luxuriant foliage. Amongst them is the rhododendron, which -grows to an immense height and size, and is, when in bloom, literally -covered with flowers. On every hill, on a level with the club, and -within a mile of it, a house is to be seen, to which access would seem -impossible. These houses are, for the most part, whitened without as -well as within; and nothing can exceed in prettiness their aspect as -they shine in the sun. - -From the back of the club-house, from your bed-room windows (there -are twenty-three sets of apartments) you have a view of Deyrah Dhoon. -It appears about a mile off. It is seven miles distant. The plains -that lie outstretched below the Simplon bear, in point of extent -and beauty, to the Indian scene, nothing like the proportion which -the comparatively pigmy Mont Blanc bears to the Dewalgiri. From an -elevation of about seven thousand feet the eye embraces a plain -containing millions of acres, intersected by broad streams to the -left, and inclosed by a low belt of hills, called the Pass. The Dhoon, -in various parts, is dotted with clumps of jungle, abounding with -tigers, pheasants, and every species of game. In the broad tributaries -to the Ganges and the Jumna, may be caught (with a fly) the mâhseer, -the leviathan salmon. Beyond the Pass of which I have spoken, you see -the plains of Hindoostan. While you are wrapped in a great coat, and -are shivering with the cold, you may see the heat, and the steam it -occasions. With us on the hills, the thermometer is at forty-five; with -those poor fellows over there, it is at ninety-two degrees. We can -scarcely keep ourselves warm, for the wind comes from the snowy range; -they cannot breathe, except beneath a punkah. That steam is, as the -crow flies, not more than forty miles from us. - -We are all idlers at Mussoorie. We are all sick, or supposed to be -so; or we have leave on private affairs. Some of us are up here for a -month between musters. We are in the good graces of our colonel and our -general--the general of our division, a very good old gentleman. - -Let us go into the public room, and have breakfast; for it is half-past -nine o'clock, and the bell has rung. There are not more than half -a dozen at the table. These are the early risers who walk or ride -round the Camel's Back every morning: the Camel's Back being a huge -mountain, encircled about its middle by a good road. The majority of -the club's members are asleep, and will defer breakfast until tiffin -time--half-past two. At that hour the gathering will be great. How -these early risers eat, to be sure! There is the major, who, if you -believe him, has every complaint mentioned in "Graham's Domestic -Medicine," has just devoured two thighs (grilled) of a turkey, and is -now asking Captain Blossom's opinion of the Irish stew, while he is -cutting into a pigeon-pie. - -Let us now while away the morning. Let us call on some of the grass -widows. There are lots of them here, civil and military. Let us go -first to Mrs. Merrydale, the wife of our old friend Charley, of the two -hundredth and tenth regiment. Poor fellow! He could not get leave, and -the doctors said another hot summer in the plains would be the death of -his wife. They are seven hundred pounds in debt to the Agra bank, and -are hard put to it to live and pay the monthly instalments of interest. -Charley is only a lieutenant. What terrible infants are these little -Merrydales! There is Lieutenant Maxwell's pony under the trees, and -if these children had not shouted out, "Mamma! Mamma! here is Captain -Wall, Sahib!" I should have been informed that Mrs. Merrydale was -not at home, or was poorly, which I should have believed implicitly. -(Maxwell, when a young ensign, was once engaged to be married to Julia -Dacey, now Mrs. Merrydale, but her parents would not hear of it, for -some reason or other.) As it is, we must be admitted. We will not -stay long. Mrs. Merrydale is writing to her husband. Grass widows in -the hills are always writing to their husbands, when you drop in upon -them, and your presence is not actually delighted in. How beautiful she -looks! now that the mountain breezes have chased from her cheeks the -pallor which lately clung to them in the plains; and the fresh air has -imparted to her spirits an elasticity, in lieu of that languor by which -she was oppressed a fortnight ago. - -Let us now go to Mrs. Hastings. She is the wife of a civilian, who -has a salary of fifteen hundred rupees (one hundred and fifty pounds) -per mensem, and who is a man of fortune independent of his pay. -Mrs. Hastings has the best house in Mussoorie. She is surrounded by -servants. She has no less than three Arab horses to ride. She is a -great prude, is Mrs. Hastings. She has no patience with married women -who flirt. She thinks that the dogma-- - - When lovely women go astray, - Their stars are more in fault than they-- - -is all nonsense. Mrs. Hastings has been a remarkably fine woman; she -is now five-and-thirty, and still good looking, though disposed to -_embonpoint_. She wearies one with her discourses on the duties of a -wife. That simpering cornet, Stammersleigh, is announced, and we may -bid her good morning. - -The average rent for a furnished house is about five hundred rupees -(fifty pounds) for the six months. Every house has its name. Yonder -are Cocky Hall, Belvidere, Phoenix Lodge, the Cliffs, the Crags, the -Vale, the Eagle's Nest, &c. The value of these properties ranges from -five hundred to fifteen hundred pounds. The furniture is of the very -plainest description, with one or two exceptions, and is manufactured -chiefly at Bareilly, and carried here on men's shoulders the entire -distance--ninety miles. - -Where shall we go now, for it wants an hour to tiffin time? Oh! here -comes a janpan! (a sort of sedan-chair carried by four hill men, -dressed in loose black clothes, turned up with red, yellow, blue, -green, or whatever colour the proprietor likes best). And in the janpan -sits a lady--Mrs. Apsley, a very pretty, good-tempered, and well-bred -little woman. She is the grand-daughter of an English peer, and is -very fond of quoting her aunts and her uncles. "My aunt Lady Mary -Culnerson," "my aunt the Countess of Tweedleford," "my uncle, Lord -Charles Banbury Cross," &c. But that is her only weakness, I believe; -and, perhaps, it is ungenerous to allude to it. Her husband is in the -Dragoons. - -"Well, Mrs. Apsley, whither art thou going? To pay visits?" - -"No. I am going to Mrs. Ludlam's to buy a new bonnet, and not before I -want one, you will say." - -"May I accompany you?" - -"Yes, and assist me in making a choice." - -There is not a cloud to be seen. The air is soft and balmy. The wild -flowers are in full bloom, and the butterfly is on the wing. The -grasshopper is singing his ceaseless song, and the bees are humming a -chorus thereto. - -We are now at Mrs. Ludlam's. The janpan is placed upon the ground, and -I assist Mrs. Apsley to step from it. - -Mrs. Ludlam is the milliner and dressmaker of Upper India, and -imports all her wares direct from London and Paris. Everybody in this -part of the world knows Mrs. Ludlam, and everybody likes her. She -has by industry, honesty of purpose, and economy, amassed a little -fortune; and has brought up a large family in the most respectable and -unpretending style. Some people say that she sometimes can afford to -sell a poor ensign's wife a bonnet, or a silk dress, at a price which -hardly pays. What I have always admired in Mrs. Ludlam is that she -never importunes her customers to buy her goods; nor does she puff -their quality. - -The bonnet is bought; likewise a neck-scarf for Jack. And we are now -returning: Mrs. Apsley to her home, and I to the club. Mrs. Apsley -invites me to dine with them; but that is impossible. It is public -night, and I have two guests. One of them is Jack, who does not belong -to the club, because Mary does not wish it. - -Mrs. Apsley says she wants some pickles, and we must go into Ford's -shop to purchase them. Ford sells everything; and he is a wine, beer, -and spirit merchant. You may get anything at Ford's--guns, pistols, -swords, whips, hats, clothes, tea, sugar, tobacco. What is this -which Ford puts into my hand? A raffle paper! "To be raffled for, a -single-barrelled rifle, by Purdey. The property of a gentleman hard-up -for money, and in great difficulties. Twenty-five chances at one gold -mohur (one pound twelve shillings) each." - -"Yes, put my name down for a chance, Ford." - -"And Captain Apsley's, please," says the lady. - -After promising Mrs. Apsley most faithfully that I will not keep Jack -later than half-past twelve, and taking another look into those sweet -eyes of hers, I gallop away as fast as the pony can carry me. I am -late; there is scarcely a vacant place at the long table. We have -no private tables. The same board shelters the nether limbs of all -of us. We are all intimate friends, and know exactly each other's -circumstances. What a clatter of knives and forks! And what a lively -conversation! It alludes chiefly to the doings of the past night. -Almost every other man has a nickname. To account for many of them -would indeed be a difficult, if not a hopeless task. - -"Dickey Brown! Glass of beer?" - -"I am your man," responds Major George, N. I. Fencibles. - -At the other end of the table you hear the word "Shiney" shouted out, -and responded to by Lieutenant Fenwick of the Horse Artillery. - -"Billy! Sherry?" - -Adolphus Bruce of the Lancers lifts his glass with immense alacrity. - -It is a curious characteristic of Indian society that very little -outward respect is in private shown to seniority. I once heard an -ensign of twenty years of age address a civilian of sixty in the -following terms: "Now then, old moonsiff, pass that claret, please." - -The tiffin over, a gool, or lighted ball of charcoal, is passed round -the table in a silver augdan (fire-holder). Every man present lights -a cigar, and in a few minutes there is a general move. Some retire to -the billiard-room, others cluster round the fireplace; others pace the -platform; and two sets go up-stairs into the reading-room to have a -quiet rubber--from three till five. Those four men seated at the table -near the window have the reputation of being the best players in India. -The four at the other table know very little of the game of whist. Mark -the difference! The one set never speak, except when the cards are -being dealt. The other set are finding fault with one another during -the progress of the hand. The good players are playing high. Gold mohur -points--five gold mohurs on the rub--give and take five to two after -the first game. And sometimes, at game and game, they bet an extra -five. Tellwell and Long, who are playing against Bean and Fickle, have -just lost a bumper--twenty-seven gold mohurs--a matter of forty-three -pounds four shillings. - -In the billiard-room, there is a match going on between four officers -who are famed for their skill, judgment, and execution. Heavy bets are -pending. How cautiously and how well they play! No wonder, when we -consider the number of hours they practise, and that they play every -day of their lives. That tall man, now about to strike, makes a revenue -out of billiards. I shall be greatly mistaken if that man does not -come to grief some day. He preys upon every youngster in every station -he goes to with his regiment. He is a captain in the Native Infantry. -His name is Tom Locke. He has scored forty-seven off the red ball. -His confederate, Bunyan, knows full well that luck has little to do -with his success. He, too, will come to grief before long. Your clever -villains are invariably tripped up sooner or later, and ignominiously -stripped of their commissions and positions in society. - -It is five o'clock. Some thirty horses and as many ponies are saddled -and bridled, and led up and down in the vicinity of the club. Everybody -will be on the mall presently. The mall is a part of the road round -the Camel's Back. It is a level of about half a mile long and twelve -feet broad. A slight fence stands between the riders and a deep -khud (precipice). To gallop along this road is nothing when you are -accustomed to it; but at first it makes one very nervous even to -witness it. Serious and fatal accidents have happened; but, considering -all things, they have been far fewer than might have been expected. - -The mall is crowded. Ladies and gentlemen on horseback, and ladies -in janpans--the janpanees dressed in every variety of livery. Men in -the French grey coats, trimmed with white serge, are carrying Mrs. -Hastings. Men in the brown clothes, trimmed with yellow serge, are -carrying Mrs. Merrydale. Jack Apsley's wife is mounted on her husband's -second charger. "Come along, Captain Wall," she calls out to me, and -goes off at a canter, which soon becomes a hard gallop. I follow her of -course. Jack remains behind, to have a quiet chat with Mrs. Flower, of -his regiment; who thinks--and Jack agrees with her--that hard riding -on the mall is a nuisance, and ought to be put a stop to. But, as we -come back, we meet the hypocrite galloping with a Miss Pinkerton, a new -importation, with whom--much to the amusement of his wife--he affects -to be desperately in love. The mall, by the way, is a great place for -flirtations. - -Most steady-going people, like Mrs. Flower, not only think hard riding -on the mall a nuisance, but make it the theme of letters to the editors -of the papers; and sometimes the editors will take the matter up, and -write leading articles thereon, and pointedly allude to the fact--as -did the late Sir C. J. Napier in a general order--that beggars on -horseback usually ride in the opposite direction to heaven. But these -letters and leaders rarely have the desired effect; for what can a man -do when a pretty woman like Mrs. Apsley says, "Come along; let us have -a gallop." - -Why are there so very many people on the mall this evening? A few -evenings ago it was proposed at the club that a band should play twice -a week. A paper was sent round at once, and every one subscribed a -sum in accordance with his means. Next morning the required number -of musicians was hunted up and engaged. Two cornets, two flutes, two -violins, a clarionet, a fife, and several drums. It is the twenty-ninth -of May--a day always celebrated in "this great military camp," as Lord -Ellenborough described British India. At a given signal, the band -strikes up "God save the Queen." We all flock round the band, which has -taken up a position on a rock beetling over the road. The male portion -of us raise our hats, and remain uncovered while the anthem is played. -We are thousands of miles distant from our fatherland and our Queen, -but our hearts are as true and as loyal as though she were in the midst -of us. - -This is the first time that the Himalaya mountains have listened to the -joyous sound of music. We have danced to music within doors; but never, -until this day, have we heard a band in the open air in the Himalaya -mountains. How wonderful is the effect! From valley to valley echo -carries the sound, until at last it seems as though - - Every mountain now had found a band. - -Long after the strain has ceased with us, we can hear it penetrating -into and reverberating amidst regions which the foot of man has never -yet trodden, and probably will never tread. The sun has gone down, but -his light is still with us. - -Back to the club! Dinner is served. We sit down, seventy-five of us. -The fare is excellent, and the champagne has been iced in the hail -which fell the other night, during a storm. Jack Apsley is on my -right, and I have thrice begged of him to remember that he must not -stay later than half-past twelve; and he has thrice responded that -Mary has given him an extension of leave until daylight. Jack and I -were midshipmen together, some years ago, in a line-of-battle ship -that went by the name of the House of Correction. And there is Wywell -sitting opposite to us--Wywell who was in the frigate which belonged to -our squadron--the squadron that went round the world, and buried the -commodore, poor old Sir James! in Sydney churchyard. Fancy we three -meeting again in the Himalaya mountains! - -The cloth is removed, for the dinner is over. The president of the -club--the gentleman who founded it--rises. He is a very little man of -seventy years of age--fifty-three of which have been spent in India. He -is far from feeble, and is in full possession of all his faculties. His -voice is not loud, but it is very distinct, and pierces the ear. - -They do not sit long after dinner at the club. It is only nine, and the -members are already diminishing. Some are off to the billiard-room, -to smoke, drink brandy-and-water, and look on at the play. The whist -parties are now at work, and seven men are engaged at brag. A few -remain; and, drawing their chairs to the fireplace, form a ring and -chat cosily. - -Halloa! what is this? The club-house is heaving and pitching like a -ship at anchor in a gale of wind. Some of us feel qualmish. It is a -shock of an earthquake; and a very violent shock. It is now midnight. -A thunderstorm is about to sweep over Mussoorie. Only look at that -lurid forked lightning striking yonder hill, and listen to that -thunder! While the storm lasts, the thunder will never for a second -cease roaring; for, long before the sound of one peal has died away, it -will be succeeded by another more awful. And now, look at the Dhoon! -Those millions of acres are illuminated by incessant sheet lightning. -How plainly we discern the trees and the streams in the Dhoon, and -the outline of the pass which divides the Dhoon from the plains. What -a glorious panorama! We can see the black clouds descending rapidly -towards the Dhoon, and it is not until they near that level land that -they discharge the heavy showers with which they are laden. What a -luxury would this storm be to the inhabitants of the plains; but it -does not extend beyond the Dhoon. We shall hear the day after to-morrow -that not a single drop of rain has fallen at Umballah, Meerut, or -Saharunpore. - -The party from the billiard-room has come up to have supper, now that -the storm is over. They are rather noisy; but the card-players take no -heed of them. They are too intent upon their play to be disturbed. Two -or three of the brag party call for oyster-toast to be taken to the -table, and they devour it savagely while the cards are dealt round, -placing their lighted cheroots meanwhile on the edge of the table. - -And now there is singing--comic and sentimental. "Isle of Beauty" is -followed by the "Steam Leg," the "Steam Leg" by the "Queen of the May," -the "Queen of the May" by the facetious version of "George Barnwell," -and so on. Jack Apsley--who has ascertained that dear Mary is quite -safe, and not at all alarmed--is still here, and is now singing "Rule, -Britannia," with an energy and enthusiasm which are at once both -pleasing and ridiculous to behold. He has been a soldier for upwards -of sixteen years; but the sailor still predominates in his nature; -while his similes have invariably reference to matters connected with -ships and the sea. He told me just now, that when he first joined his -regiment, he felt as much out of his element as a live dolphin in a -sentry-box, and he has just described his present colonel as a man -who is as touchy as a boatswain's kitten. Apsley's Christian name is -Francis, but he has always been called Jack, and always will be. - -It is now broad daylight, and high time for a man on sick-leave to -be in bed. How seedy and disreputable we all look, in our evening -dresses and patent-leather boots. And observe this carnation in my -button-hole--the gift of Mrs. Apsley; she gave it to me on the mall. -The glare of the lights, and the atmosphere of smoke in which I have -been sitting part of the night, have robbed it of its freshness, its -bloom, and perfume. I am sorry to say it is an emblem of most of us. - -Go home, Apsley! Go home, reeking of tobacco-smoke and -brandy-and-water--with your eyes like boiled gooseberries, your hair in -frightful disorder--go home! You will probably meet upon the mall your -three beautiful children, with their rosy faces all bloom, and their -breath, when they press their glowing lips to those feverish cheeks -of yours, will smell as incense, and make you ashamed of yourself. Go -home, Jack. I will tiff with you to-day at half-past two. - - * * * * * - -Two young gentlemen were victimized last night at the brag party. The -one, a lieutenant of the N. I. Buffs, lost six thousand rupees; the -other, a lieutenant of the Foot Artillery, four thousand. The day after -to-morrow, the first of the month, will be settling day. How are they -to meet these debts of honour? They have nothing but their pay, and -must borrow from the banks. That is easily managed. The money will -be advanced to them on their own personal security, and that of two -other officers in the service. They must also insure their lives. The -premium and the interest together will make them forfeit fourteen per -cent. per annum on the sum advanced. The loan will be paid off in three -years, by monthly instalments. The paymaster will receive an order from -the bank secretary to deduct for the bank so much per mensem from their -pay. For the next three years they will have to live very mildly indeed. - -There were also two victims (both youngsters) to billiards. One lost -three thousand rupees in bets, another two thousand five hundred by -bad play. They too, will have to fly for assistance to the banks. -Captains Locke and Bunyan won, between them, last night, one thousand -four hundred pounds. There was but little execution done at whist. Not -more than one hundred and fifty pounds changed hands. Those four men -who play regularly together, and who never exceed their usual bets, -have very little difference between them at the end of each month--not -thirty pounds either way. This will not hurt them; for they have all -good appointments, and have private property besides. - -I find, on going to tiffin at Jack Apsley's, that Mrs. Jack has heard -all about the winnings and losings at the club. Some man went home and -told his wife, and she has told everybody whom she has seen. In a short -time the news will travel to head-quarters at Simlah, and out will come -a general order on gambling, which general order will be read aloud at -the Himalaya Club, with comments by the whole company--comments which -will be received with shouts of laughter. Some youngsters will put the -general order into verse, and send it to a newspaper. This done, the -general order will be converted into pipe-lights. This is no doubt very -sad; but I have no time to moralize. My duty is simply to paint the -picture. - -Mrs. Apsley is not angry with her husband for staying up till daylight. -She thinks a little dissipation does him good; and it is but a very -little that Jack indulges in, for he is a good husband and a good -father. Jack has a severe headache, but he won't confess it. He says -he never touched the champagne, and only drank two glasses of brandy -and water. But who ever did touch the champagne, and who ever did drink -any more than two glasses of brandy and water? Jack came home with -his pockets filled with almonds, raisins, prunes, nutcrackers, and -two liqueur glasses; but how they got there he has not the slightest -idea--but I have. Wywell, from a sideboard, was filling his pockets all -the while he was singing "Rule, Britannia." - -"Mrs. Apsley, I have some news for you." - -"What is it, Captain Wall?" - -"The club gives a ball on the 7th of June." - -"You don't say so." - -"And what is more, a fancy ball." - -The tiffin is brought in. Mulligatawny soup and rice, cold lamb and -mint sauce, sherry and beer. The Apsleys are very hospitable people; -but Mary, who rules the household, never exceeds her means for the sake -of making a display. - -The soup and a glass of wine set Jack up; and he becomes quite chirpy. -He proposes that he and I and Wywell shall go to the fancy ball as -middies, and that Mary shall appear as Black-eyed Susan. Then, darting -off at a tangent, he asks me if I remember when we were lying off Mount -Edgecombe, just before sailing for South America? But he requires a -little more stimulant, for the tears are glistening in his soft blue -eyes when he alludes to the death of poor Noel, a middy whom we buried -in the ocean a few days before we got to Rio. In a very maudlin way -he narrates to his wife the many excellent qualities of poor Noel. -She listens with great attention; but, observing that his spontaneous -emotion is the result of the two over-night glasses of brandy--plus -what he cannot remember drinking over-night--she suggests that Jack -shall make some sherry cobbler. What a jewel of a woman art thou, Mrs. -Apsley! Several of the men who returned home, as Jack did, none the -better for their potations, have been driven by their wives' reproaches -to the club, where they are now drinking brandy and soda-water to -excess; while here is your spouse as comfortable as a cricket on a -hearth; and now that he confesses he was slightly screwed, you, with -quiet tact, contradict his assertion. - -For the next week the forthcoming fancy ball to be given by the club -will be the chief topic of conversation amongst the visitors at -Mussoorie. Mrs. Ludlam is in immense demand. She knows the character -that each lady will appear in; but it is useless to attempt to extract -from her the slightest particle of information on that head. This ball -will be worth seven hundred and fifty rupees to Mrs. Ludlam. - -Let us keep away from the club for a few days; for, after several -officers have been victimized at play, their friends are apt to talk -about the matter in an unpleasant manner. This frequently leads to a -quarrel, which I dislike to witness. - -Where shall we go? To the Dhoon. It is very hot there; but never mind. -No great-coat, no fires, an hour hence; but the very lightest of -garments and a punkah. The thermometer is at eighty-five degrees there. -The Dhoon is not a healthy place in the summer. It must have been the -bed of an enormous lake, or small inland sea. Its soil being alluvial, -will produce anything: every kind of fruit, European and tropical. You -may gather a peach and a plantain out of the same garden. Some of the -hedges in this part of the world are singularly beautiful, composed -of white and red cluster roses and sweetbriers. There is an excellent -hotel in the Dhoon, where we are sure to meet people whom we know. - -Sure enough, I find a Party of five at the hotel; all club men, and -intimate friends of mine. They, too, have come down to avoid being -present on the first settling day; for if there should be any duelling, -it is just possible that some of us might be asked to act as second. - -We must dine off sucking-pig in the Dhoon. The residents at Mussoorie -used to form their pig-parties in the Dhoon, just as the residents of -London form their whitebait banquets at Greenwich. I once took a French -gentleman, who was travelling in India, to one of these pig-parties, -and he made a very humorous note of it in his book of travel, which he -showed to me. Unlike most foreigners who travel in English dominions, -he did not pick out and note down all the bad traits in our character; -but gave us credit for all those excellent points which his experience -of mankind in general enabled him to observe. - -The Governor-General's body-guard is quartered just now in the Dhoon, -and there is a Goorkha regiment here. The Dhoon will send some twenty -couples to the fancy ball on the 7th. Every lady in the place has -at this moment a Durzee (man tailor) employed in her back verandah -dress-making. We are admitted to the confidence of Mrs. Plowville, who -is going as Norma. And a very handsome Norma she will make; she being -rather like Madame Grisi--and she knows it. - -We return to the club on the 2nd of June. There has been a serious -dispute, and a duel has been fought; but happily, no blood shed. -The intelligence of the gambling at the club has reached the -Commander-in-Chief at Simlah; and he has ordered that the remainder of -the leave granted to Captains Locke and Bunyan be cancelled, and that -those officers forthwith join their respective regiments. The victims -also have been similarly treated; yet every one of these remanded -officers came up here on medical certificate. - -It is the morning of the 7th of June. The stewards of the ball are -here, there, and everywhere, making arrangements. Several old hands, -who hate and detest balls, and who voted against this ball, are walking -about the public room, protesting that it is the greatest folly they -ever heard of. And in their disgust they blackball two candidates for -admission who are to be balloted for on the 10th instant. They complain -that they can get no tiffin, no dinner, no anything. But the stewards -only laugh at them. - -The supper has been supplied by Monsieur Emille, the French -restaurateur, and a very splendid supper it is. It is laid out in the -dining-room. Emille is a great artist. He is not perhaps equal to -Brazier--that great man whom Louis Philippe gave to his friend, Lord -William Bentinck, when Lord William was going out to govern India--but -Emille, nevertheless, would rank high even amongst the most skilful of -cuisiniers in Europe. - -It is a quarter past nine, and we of the club are ready to receive -our guests. The ladies come in janpans; their husbands following them -on horseback or on foot. It is a beautiful moonlight night. We are -always obliged to wait upon the moon when we give a ball in Mussoorie. -Before ten o'clock the room is crowded. There are present one hundred -and thirty-six gentlemen, and seventy-five ladies. Of the former -nine-tenths are soldiers, the remainder are civilians. Of the latter, -seventy are married; the remaining five are spinsters. - -Here we all are in every variety of costume--Turks, Greeks, Romans, -Bavarian broom-girls, Medoras, Corsairs, Hamlets, Othellos, Tells, -Charles the Seconds, and Quakers. Many have not come in fancy costume, -but in their respective uniforms; and where do you see such a variety -of uniforms as in an Indian ball-room? Where will you meet with so -great a number of distinguished men? There is the old general: that -empty sleeve tells a tale of the battle of Waterloo. Beside him is a -general in the Company's service, one who has recently received the -thanks of his country. He has seen seventy, but there is no man in the -room who could at this very time endure so great an amount of mental -or bodily fatigue. That youngster to the right of the general is to -be made a brevet-major and a C.B. as soon as he gets his company. -He is a hero, though a mere boy. That pale-faced civilian is a man -of great ability, and possesses administrative talents of the very -highest order. Seated on an ottoman, talking to Mrs. Hastings, is the -famous Hawkins, of the Third Dragoons. Laughing in the side doorway -is the renowned William Mumble. He is the _beau ideal_ of a dashing -soldier. Yonder is Major Starcross, whose gallantry in Affghanistan -was the theme of admiration in Europe. And there is Colonel Bolt, of -the Duke's Own. All of these men have been under very hot fire--the -hottest that even Lord Hardinge could remember. All of them are -decorated with medals and ribbons. Where will you see handsomer women -than you frequently meet in a ball-room at Mussoorie or Simlah? Amongst -those now assembled there are three who, at any court in Europe, would -be conspicuous for their personal attractions--Mrs. Merrydale, Mrs. -Plowville, and Mrs. Banks. Mrs. Apsley is a pretty little woman; but -the three to whom I have alluded are beautiful. - -The dancing has commenced, and will continue until four o'clock, with -an interval of half-an-hour at supper-time. The second supper--the -ladies being gone--will then commence, and a very noisy party it will -be. Unrestrained by the presence of the fair sex, the majority of -those who remain will drink and smoke in earnest, and the chances are, -there will be several rows. Ensign Jenks, when the brandy and water -inflames him, will ask young Blackstone, of the Civil Service, what he -meant by coming up and talking to his partner during the last set of -quadrilles. Blackstone will say, the lady beckoned to him. Jenks will -say, "It is a lie!" Blackstone will rise to assault Jenks. Two men -will hold Blackstone down on his chair. The general will hear of this, -for Captain Lovelass (who is himself almost inarticulate) has said to -Jenks, "Cossider self unarrest!" Jenks will have to join his regiment -at Meerut, after receiving from the general a very severe reprimand. - -While talking over the past ball, an archery meeting or a pic-nic -is sure to be suggested. It must originate at the club; without the -countenance of the club, which is very jealous of its prerogative, -no amusement can possibly be successful. A lady, the wife of a -civilian, who prided herself on her husband's lofty position, had -once the temerity to try the experiment, and actually sent round a -proposal-paper in her own handwriting, and by one of her own servants. -She failed of course. All the club people wrote the word "seen" -opposite to their names; but withheld the important word "approved." -Even the tradespeople at Mussoorie acknowledge the supremacy of the -Himalaya Club. - - * * * * * - -The season is over. The cold weather has commenced in the plains. It is -the 5th of October, and everybody at Mussoorie is on the move--going -down the hill, as it is called. Every house which was lately full -is now empty, and will remain so till the coming April. The only -exceptions will be the schools for young ladies and for little boys; -the convent, the branch of the North-West Bank, and the Post-Office. -Invalided officers who reside at the sanatarium during the summer will -go down the hill, and winter in Deyrah Dhoon. In another month the -mountains will be covered with snow, and it would be dangerous to walk -out on these narrow roads, few of which are railed in. - -Let us sum up the events of the season. Four young men were -victimized--two at cards and two at billiards. Two duels were fought -on the day after the ball. In one of these duels an officer fell dead. -In another the offending party grievously wounded his antagonist. Four -commissions were sacrificed in consequence of these encounters. There -were two elopements. Mrs. Merrydale went off with Lieutenant Maxwell, -leaving her children under the care of the servants, until her husband -came to take them away. Mrs. Hastings, who used to bore us about the -duties of a wife, carried off that silly boy Stammersleigh. These -elopements led to two actions in H.M. Supreme Court of Calcutta, and -seven of us (four in one case and three in the other) had to leave our -regiments or appointments, and repair to the Supreme Court to give -evidence. Some of us had to travel fourteen hundred miles in the month -of May, the hottest month in India. - -There was another very awkward circumstance connected with that -season at Mussoorie. The reader knows that Captains Locke and Bunyan -were ordered to join their regiments, the unexpired portion of -their leave having been cancelled by order of his Excellency the -Commander-in-Chief. In the hurry of his departure from the hills, Locke -had left in the drawer of a table a letter from Bunyan, containing a -proposal to victimize a certain officer--then in Mussoorie--in the -same manner that they had victimized one Lord George Straw; namely, to -get him to their rooms, and play at brag. Lord George Straw had lost -to these worthies eighteen hundred pounds on one eventful night. The -general opinion was, touching a very extraordinary fact connected with -the play, that Lord George had been cheated. This letter from Bunyan -to Locke was found by the servant of the officer who now occupied -the apartments recently vacated by Locke. The servant handed it to -his master, who, fancying that it was one of his own letters, began -abstractedly to read it. Very soon, however, he discovered his mistake. -But he had read sufficient to warrant his reading the whole, and he did -so. A meeting of gentlemen at the club was called; and, before long, -Locke and Bunyan left the army by sentence of a general court-martial. -I have since heard that Locke lost his ill-gotten gains in Ireland, -and became eventually a marker at a billiard-room; and that Bunyan, who -also came to poverty, was seen driving a cab for hire in Oxford-street. - -It behoves me, however, to inform the reader that, recently, the tone -of Anglo-Indian society during the hot seasons is very much improved. -Six or seven years ago there never was a season that did not end as -unhappily as that which I have attempted to describe; but it is now -four years since I heard of a duel in the Upper Provinces--upwards -of four years since I heard of a victim to gambling, and nearly -three since there was an elopement. It is true that the records of -courts-martial still occasionally exhibit painful cases; but, if we -compare the past with the present, we must admit that the change is -very satisfactory. I do not attribute this altered state of things -to the vigilance of commanding officers, or the determination of the -commanders-in-chief to punish severely those who offend. It is due -chiefly to the improved tone of society in England, from which country -we get our habits and manners. The improvement in the tone of Indian -society has been very gradual. Twenty years ago India was famous for -its infamy. Ten years ago it was very bad. It is now tolerable. In -ten years from this date, if not in less time, Indian society will be -purged entirely of those evils which now prey upon it, and trials for -drunkenness and other improper conduct will happen as rarely as in -England. Year by year this communication between our fatherland and -the upper part of India will become more speedy and less expensive; -and thus will a greater number of officers be enabled to come home on -furlough for a year or two. Nothing does an Indian officer so much -good as a visit to Europe. When a man has once contracted bad habits -in India, he cannot reform in India. To be cured he must be taken away -for a while from the country. There have been instances of officers who -have had strength of mind to alter their course of life without leaving -the East; but those instances are very few. - -The East India Company should do all in its power to encourage young -officers to spend a certain time every seven years in Europe. Instead -of six months' leave to the hills--which six months are spent in utter -idleness, and too frequently in dissipation--give them nine months' -leave to Europe. This would admit of their spending six months in -England, or on the Continent, where they would improve their minds and -mend their morals, as well as their constitutions. - -The East India Company should also bring the Peninsular and Oriental -Company to reasonable terms for the passage of officers to and from -India. A lieutenant who wishes to come home, cannot at present get -a passage from Calcutta to Southampton under one hundred and twenty -pounds. So that he gives up more than four months' pay for being "kept" -thirty-six days on board of a steamer. Three pounds ten shillings per -diem for food and transit! - - - - -THE MAHOMMEDAN MOTHER. - - -Mussoorie and Landour, situated in the lower range of the Himalaya -mountains, form the favourite sanitarium of the upper part of India. -The scenery is more beautiful than that of Simlah; for Mussoorie and -Landour command a view of Dehra Dhoon, which resembles (except that -the Dhoon is grander and more extensive) the plains of Italy as seen -from the ascent of the Simplon. The mall of Mussoorie is crowded every -evening with visitors; some on horseback, some on hill ponies, some -on foot, and some in the janpan (something like a sedan-chair carried -by four hill men). A gayer scene it would be impossible to conceive. -Every one knows his neighbour; and, in passing along the narrow road, -stoppages are frequent. Compliments must be exchanged, and the news or -scandal of the day gossiped about. Every now and then you hear a cry of -"What a shame!" from a terrified lady in a janpan, while a couple of -lovers gallop past on spirited Arabs at full speed. Sometimes a shriek -from a nervous mamma reverberates through the valleys, when she beholds -her children in the way of the heedless pair. - -Accidents sometimes occur. A few years ago, a lady and a gentleman -were riding round a place called the Camel's Back; the road gave way, -and they fell down a precipice several hundred feet. The horses were -killed, but the riders miraculously escaped with only a few severe -bruises. On another occasion, a gentleman of the civil service was -taking his evening walk, when one of his dogs ran between his legs, and -precipitated him. He was killed on the spot. - -On the mall every evening was to be seen a native woman standing by the -side of the road, near a large rock, watching those who passed by. She -was well dressed, and her face was concealed, according to the custom -of persons of her apparent station in life. There she stood, attracting -general attention. She was a woman of slight, but graceful figure, and -rather tall. Many persons were curious to know who she was, and to -see her face; but she took care that in this respect none should be -gratified. Sometimes she would go away early; at other times she would -remain until it was quite dark. Some suspected--and I was amongst the -number--that she was the native wife of some European officer who had -divorced himself, and visited the "Hills," whither the woman, to annoy, -had followed him; and there was no small amount of speculation as to -whose wife she could be. Some of the guesses, if they were seriously -made, were extremely ungenerous, for they included several elderly -officials, who could not by any possibility have been married to this -mysterious lady. I was determined to know who she was; and one night, -when most people were thronged around the band, I approached her, and -inquired if I could be of any service to her. She replied (her face -closely covered), "Yes; by going away." She had a very sweet voice, and -its sorrowful tones inspired me with pity, when she added, "I am a poor -woman; my heart is crushed; do not add to my misery by remaining near -me." I obeyed her, after apologizing for having intruded. Several other -persons had attempted to extract some particulars from the lady, and -had received the same sort of reply as that she had given to me. - -The rains were about to commence, and storms were not unfrequent. The -mall was less frequented; only a few--those who cared little about -hearing "heaven's artillery thunder in the skies," or being pelted by -hailstones as large as marbles--ventured out; but amongst that few was -the native lady, who, punctual as the light of day, visited that huge, -dismal-looking rock, and gazed upon the road. - -I have seen a storm on the heights of Jura--such a storm as Lord Byron -describes. I have seen lightning and heard thunder in Australia; I -have, off Terra del Fuego, the Cape of Good Hope, and the coast of -Java, kept watch in thunderstorms which have drowned in their roaring -the human voice, and made every one deaf and stupified; but these -storms are not to be compared with a thunderstorm at Mussoorie or -Landour. - -In one of these storms of thunder, lightning, wind, and hail, at about -five o'clock in the afternoon, I laid a wager with a friend that the -native lady would be found as usual standing near the rock. Something -secretly assured me that she was there at that moment, looking on -unmoved, except by the passions which had prompted her pilgrimage. How -were we to decide it? "By going to the spot," I suggested. My friend -declined; but declared that, as far as the bet was concerned, he would -be perfectly satisfied with my word, either one way or the other; -namely, whether I had won or lost. - -I set off upon my journey. The rock was at least three-quarters of a -mile distant from my abode. My curiosity was so much aroused--albeit -I felt certain the woman was there--that I walked through the storm -without heeding it. Every now and then I saw the electric fluid descend -into a valley; then heard that strange noise which huge pieces of -rock make when they bound from one precipice to another, tearing up -trees, and carrying large stones and the earth along with them in their -headlong career; but still my mind was intent on the woman, and nothing -else. - -Was she there? - -Yes; there she sat, drenched to the skin; but I could not pity her wet -and cold condition, for I could see that she cared no more about it -than I cared about my own. She drew her garment so closely over her -face, that the outline of her features was plainly discernible. It was -decidedly handsome; but still I longed to see her eyes, to confirm my -impression. I sat beside her. The storm still raged, and presently the -lady said, "The heaven is speaking, Sahib." I answered, "Truly; but the -lightning, the parent of that sound which I now hear, I cannot see." -She understood me, and gave me a glimpse of her eyes. They were not -like the eyes of a native; they were of a bluish hue, almost grey. I -said to her, in Hindoostanee, "You are not a native; what do you do -here in a native dress?" - -"I would I were an European," she answered me. "My feelings, perhaps, -would be less acute, and I should be sitting over a bright fire. Oh, -how loudly the heaven is speaking! Go home, Sahib, you will catch cold!" - -"Why do _you_ not go home?" I asked. "You will see no one to-day. -No--not even your beloved. I am the only being who will venture out in -a storm like this; and I do so only for your sake." - -"My heart is as hard as this rock," she said, flipping her finger -against the granite, "to all except one being--a child. Oh, how the -heaven is speaking, Sahib!" - -"Do you not fear the lightning and the hail?" I asked her. - -"I did once," she replied. "I trembled whenever it came near; but -now, what does it signify? _Bidglee_ (lightning), come to me," she -cried, beckoning to a streak of fluid which entered the ground within a -hundred yards of us. "_Bidglee_, come here, and make a turquoise of my -heart." - -What pretty feet! She had kicked off her shoes, which were saturated -and spoiled. - -"Go home, Sahib" (such was the refrain of her conversation); "you will -catch cold!" - -By degrees I had an opportunity of seeing all her features. She was -most beautiful, but had evidently passed the meridian of her charms. -She could not have been less than twenty-four years of age. On the -forefinger of her left hand she wore a ring of English manufacture, in -which was set a red cornelian, whereon was engraved a crest--a stag's -head. - -I took her hand in mine, and said, "Where did you get this?" pointing -to the ring. - -She smiled and sighed, and then answered, "Jee (sir), it belonged to an -Ameer (a great man)." - -"Where is he?" - -"Never mind." - -"Do you expect to see him soon?" - -"No; never." - -"Is he old?" - -"No; not older than yourself. How the heaven is speaking!" - -"Let me see you to your home." - -"No. I will go alone." - -"When do you intend to go?" - -"When you have left me." - -"You are very unkind thus to repulse my civility." - -"It may be so; but my heart's blood is curdled." - -I bade her farewell; and through the storm, which still raged, I went -home and won my wager. - -I could not rest that night. The beautiful face of the native woman -haunted me. In vain I tried to sleep, and at last I arose from my bed, -and joined a card-party, in the hope that the excitement of gambling -would banish her from my brain. But to no purpose. I knew not what I -was playing, and ere long I left off in disgust. - -Almost every one who visits the Hills keeps a servant called a -_tindal_. His duty is to look after the men who carry your janpan, to -go errands, to keep up the fire, and to accompany you with a lantern -when you go out after dark. These tindals, like the couriers on the -Continent, are a peculiar race; and, generally speaking, are a very -sharp, active, and courageous people. I summoned my tindal, and -interrogated him about the native lady who had caused so much sensation -in Mussoorie. The only information he could afford me was, that she had -come from a village near Hurdwar; that she was rich, possessed of the -most costly jewels, kept a number of servants, moved about in great -state on the plains, and, for all he knew, she might be the wife or -slave of some Rajah. - -Could she, I wondered, be the famous Ranee Chunda, the mother of -Dulleep Singh, and the wife of Runjeet?--the woman who, disguised -as a soldier, had escaped from the fort of Chunar, where she had -been imprisoned for disturbing, by her plots, the imagination of Sir -Frederick Currie, when he was Resident at Lahore? The woman I had seen -and spoken to "answered to the description" of the Ranee in every -respect, excepting the eyes. Dulleep Singh was living at Mussoorie, and -he not unfrequently rode upon the mall. Ranee Chunda had a satirical -tongue, and a peculiarly sweet-toned, but shrill voice, and she had -remarkably beautiful feet, and so had this woman. Ranee Chunda had -courage which was superhuman; so had this woman. Ranee Chunda had a -child--an only child; so had this woman. - -I asked the tindal where the lady lived. He replied, that she occupied -a small house near the bazaar, not very far from my own abode. "She is -in great grief," the tindal yawned, "about something or other." - -"Endeavour to find out the cause of her misfortunes," said I, "and you -shall be rewarded according to your success." - -Next day the tindal reported to me that I was not the only Sahib who -was deeply interested in the native lady's affairs; that many wished -to make her acquaintance, and had sent their tindals to talk to her; -but that she had firmly and laconically dismissed them all, just as she -had dismissed him--"Tell your master that the sufferings of an object -of pity, such as I am, ought not to be aggravated by the insulting -persecution of gay and light-hearted men." - -The day after the storm brought forth the loveliest afternoon that -can be imagined. The sun shone out brightly, the clouds were lifted -from the Dhoon, and the vast panorama resembled what we read of in -some fairy tale. All Mussoorie and Landour turned out. The mall was so -crowded, that it was difficult to thread one's way through the throng. - -Was the lady at the rock? Yes; there she stood, as usual, watching -those who passed. The Maharajah with his suite appeared. I was -convinced that the woman was the Maharajah's mother; but I did not -breathe my suspicions, lest I might cause her to be arrested. When it -became dusk, and the visitors were taking their departure, I again -approached the lady, and made my "salaam," in that respectful phrase -which is always adopted when addressing a native woman of rank. She at -once recognised me as the person who had spoken to her during the storm -on the previous afternoon, for she alluded to its fury, and said she -had taken a wrong road, had lost her way after I had left her, and did -not reach home till nearly midnight. She concluded her little speech -with a hope that I had been more fortunate. - -"You should have allowed me to escort you," said I. "I would have -helped to carry your load of sorrow." - -She looked at me, and suddenly and abruptly said, "Your name is -Longford." - -"You are right," said I. - -"About three or four years ago you stayed for several days with a -friend in a tent near Deobund? You were on your way to these mountains?" - -"I did." - -"You had a little dog with you, and you lost it at Deobund?" - -"I did lose my dog, and made a great noise about it. But how do you -know all this?" - -She smiled and sighed. - -I was bewildered. My belief that she was the Ranee Chunda was almost -confirmed. It was close to the encampment of the Ranee, when she was -on her way to Chunar, that my dog was lost, and my servants and the -officers of police declared that it must have been some of the Ranee's -people who had stolen the favourite. - -"The dog is still alive," said the lady; "and if you will come -to-morrow, at twelve o'clock, to my house, you shall see him; but you -will promise not to take him from me?" - -"Of course I will not take him from you. But let me see him to-night, -and tell me how he came into your possession. I will see you to your -home." - -"No, Sahib; be patient. I will tell you all to-morrow; and, when you -have heard my story, you will perhaps do me a kindness. It is in your -power to assist me. Tell me where you live, and I will send my brother -to you at eleven o'clock. He will conduct you to my house. Salaam, -Sahib." - -I returned her salaam, and left her. - -I did not go to bed till two o'clock the next morning, and when my -tindal aroused me at eleven, and informed me that a young man wished to -see me, I was disposed to believe that my engagement at twelve had been -made in my dreams. - -I ordered the young man to be admitted. He came to my bedside, and -said in a confidential tone of voice: "The lady has sent me to wait -your commands." I got up, made a hasty toilet, drank a cup of very hot -tea, and followed the young man, who led me to the little house near -the theatre, at the top of the Bazaar. I entered the abode, and found -the lady sitting, native fashion, on a carpet on which was strewed -marigold and rose leaves. Her silver kulean (small hookah) was beside -her; and, sure enough, there was my long-lost terrier, Duke, looking as -sleek, fat, lazy, and useless as a native lady's dog could be. After -expressing my thanks to the lady for her condescension in granting -me the interview, I spoke to my former favourite, Duke, but he only -stretched himself, and yawned in reply. - -"And you have still that ring with the blue stone in it," said the -lady, taking my hand, and smiling while she looked at the ring. "I -remember observing this when I saw you asleep, one morning, on a couch -in the tent at Deobund. Had I noticed it when you addressed me during -the storm, I would not have spoken so rudely to you." - -"I do not remember having seen you previous to the other evening," said -I; "and if I had, I should never have forgotten it. Where have we met?" -I repeated. - -"Where I had opportunities of seeing you, but where you could not see -me." - -There was an old serving woman, whom she called mother, attending upon -her, and the young man whom she called brother, a soldier-like looking -youth, was still standing in the room to which he had conducted me. The -lady desired them both to withdraw, and then begged me to bring the -mora (or stool) upon which I was sitting close to her side. I obeyed -her. She placed her finely-formed head in the palms of her hands, and -gave vent to a violent flood of tears. I suffered her to weep without -interruption. Grief appeared to relieve her rather than to increase her -pain. At length she dried her eyes, and said:-- - -"My father was a _Moolvee_ (Mahommedan law officer), attached to the -Sudder Court, in Agra. I am his only daughter. He was absent from home -all day. Why should he not be? He was paid for it; he ate the Company's -salt. Well, when I was about fifteen years of age I was enticed away -from my home by the _Kotwall_ (native police officer). He sent an old -woman, who had silver on her tongue and gold in her hand. She told -me long stories about love; and promised me that if I left my home I -should marry the _Kotwall's_ son, who was young and handsome. I was -but a child and very foolish. The servants who had charge of me were -all bribed heavily. One received three hundred rupees, another two -hundred, a third one hundred. These people encouraged me in the idea -that to marry the _Kotwall's_ son would be the most prudent thing in -the world; and, one day, when my father had gone to the Court at about -ten o'clock, I eloped with the old woman whom the _Kotwall_ had sent to -talk me over. - -"We travelled all day in a _bylee_ (native carriage), guarded by two -sowars. I asked the old woman several times where she was taking me, -but her only reply was, 'Set your heart at rest, child, and eat some -sweetmeats.' The _pawn_ which she gave me must have been drugged, for -shortly after eating it I fell asleep. How long I slept I cannot say, -but when I awoke I found myself in the house of a Sahib. The old woman -was there also. I became alarmed, but my fears were quieted by the old -woman's tongue. She told me I was close to Agra, but the truth was, I -was one hundred koss (two hundred miles) distant. Nautch girls were -sent for, and they danced before me. I had this hookah given to me, -and these bangles. A boy very handsomely dressed waited upon me, and -brought my food. Parrots, minahs, and doves were purchased for me to -play with. Whatever my childish fancy dictated the old woman instantly -procured. - -"I was so constantly amused, I had no time or inclination to think of -my home. My father was a bad-tempered man, and I was only too glad to -be out of hearing of the quarrels in which he constantly engaged with -his servants and dependents. One evening the old woman said to me, -'_Baba_ (child), order a Nautch this evening, and let me, in your name, -invite the Sahib to witness it.' I had never seen an Englishman--an -European--except at a distance. The idea of being in the room with -one inspired me with terror. I had been taught to despise the Kafir, -whom my father said he was compelled to serve. I objected; but the old -woman's eloquence again prevailed. - -"The night came; I was seated on my _fureesh_ (carpet) just as I am -now, and dressed in clothes of the gayest description. I was like a -little queen, and felt as proud as was Noor Jehan. I was then very -handsome. If I had not been, much trouble would have been spared; and -my flesh was firm--not as it is now. At about ten o'clock the Sahib -made his appearance. When he came into the room I was ready to faint -with alarm, and, turning my head away, I clung to the old woman, and -trembled from head to foot. '_Dhuro mut_' (do not fear), said the -Sahib; and then he reproved, but in a gentle voice, the Nautch girls -who were laughing loudly at me. The old woman, too, bade me banish my -fears. After a while, I ventured to steal a look at the Sahib; and -again averted my face, and clung to the old woman. The Sahib, after -remaining a brief while, during which he praised my beauty, retired, -and I was once more happy. 'There,' said the old woman, when he was -gone; 'you see the Sahib is not a wild beast out of the jungles, but as -gentle as one of your own doves.' - -"On the following day I heard the Sahib talking in the next room; -I peeped through the keyhole of the door, and saw him seated at a -table. The _nazir_ (head clerk) was standing beside him, reading. -There was a man in chains surrounded by _burkandâzes_ (guards) at the -other end of the room, and a woman was there giving her evidence. The -Court-house was undergoing some repairs, and the Sahib was carrying on -his magisterial duties in his dining-room. The man in chains began to -speak, and deny his guilt. The Sahib called out, '_Choop!_' (Silence!) -in a voice so loud, that I involuntarily started back and shuddered. -The prisoner again addressed the Sahib, and one of the _burkandâzes_ -dealt him a severe blow on the head, accompanied by the words, '_Suer! -Chor!_' (Pig! Thief!) The case was deferred until the following day, -and the court closed at about four o'clock in the afternoon, when the -Sahib again paid me a visit. - -"I was now afraid to show my fears, lest the Sahib should order me to -be killed; and I therefore put on a cheerful countenance, while my -heart was quivering in my breast. The Sahib spoke to me very kindly, -and I began to dread him less. - -"In this way I spent a fortnight; and, at the end of that time, I -ventured to talk to the Sahib as though I were his equal. It afforded -me great amusement to watch the administration of justice through the -keyhole; and, young as I was, I imbibed a desire to have a share in the -arbitrary power which was daily exercised. - -"One day, when the Sahib came into my room, I began to talk to him -about a case of which he had just disposed. He laughed, and listened to -my views with great patience. I told him that the evidence upon which -the prisoner had been convicted was false from beginning to end. He -promised me that he would reverse the sentence of imprisonment; and, in -the ecstasy of my joy at finding that I really had some power, I was -intoxicated and unconscious of what I was doing. I suffered the Sahib's -lips to touch mine. No sooner had I done so than I felt a degraded -outcast, and I cried more bitterly than I have words to describe. The -Sahib consoled me, and said that his God and his Prophet should be -mine; and that in this world and the next our destinies should be the -same. - -"From that day I was a wife unto him. I ruled his household, and I -shared his pleasures and his sorrows. He was in debt; but, by reducing -his expenses, I soon freed him, for his pay was fifteen hundred rupees -a month. I suffered no one to rob him, and caused the old woman, who -was a great thief and cheat, to be turned away. I loved him with all -my soul. I would rather have begged with him than have shared the -throne of Ackbar Shah. When he was tired, I lulled him to sleep; when -he was ill, I nursed him; when he was angry, I soon restored him to -good-humour; and, when I saw him about to be deceived by subordinates, -I put him on his guard. That he loved me I never had any reason to -doubt. He gave me his confidence, and I never abused his trust." - -"Who was the man?" I inquired; for I was in doubt, although I suspected. - -"Be patient, Sahib," she replied, and then resumed. "At the end of two -years I became a mother." - -Here she gave vent to another flood of tears. - -"The Sahib was pleased. The child seemed to bind us more closely -together. I loved the child; I believe it was because it bore such a -strong likeness to its father. When the Sahib was away from me on duty -in the district, he seemed still by my side, when I looked at the boy, -who was as white as you are." - -"Is the child dead?" I asked. - -"Be patient, Sahib. When you passed through Deobund, and stayed in the -tent with your friend, my child was two years old. I was the mistress -of that encampment at Deobund, and the wine you drank was given out -with this hand." - -"How little do men know of each other!" I exclaimed; "even those who -are the most intimate! I had not the least idea there was a lady in the -camp, I assure you." - -"How angry with you was I," said she, "for keeping the Sahib up so -late. You talked together the whole night long. Therefore I had no -remorse when I took your dog. Well, as you are aware, soon after that -the Sahib was seized with fever, from which he recovered; but he was so -shattered by the attack that he was compelled to visit Europe, where -you know--" She paused. - -A native woman will never, if she can avoid it, speak of the death of -a person whom she has loved. I was aware of this, and bowed my head, -touching my forehead with both hands. The father of her child had died -on his passage to England. - -"Before he left me," she continued, "he gave me all that he possessed; -his house and furniture; his horses, carriage, plate; his shares in -the bank; his watch, his dressing-case, his rings;--everything was -given to me, and I own all to this hour. When I heard the sad news I -was heartbroken. Had it not been for the child I would have starved -myself to death; as it was, I took to opium and smoking _bhung_ -(hemp). While I was in this state, my Sahib's brother--the Captain -Sahib--came, and took away the boy; not by violence. I gave it to him. -What was the child to me then? I did not care. But the old woman whom -you heard me call my mother, who now attends me, gradually weaned -me from the desperation in which I was indulging; and, by degrees, -my senses returned to me. I then began to ask about my child, and a -longing to see him came over me. At first they told me he was dead; -but when they found I was resolved to destroy myself by intemperance, -they told me the truth; that the child was living, and at school in -these hills. I have come hither to be near my child. I see him almost -every day, but it is at a distance. Sometimes he passes close to where -I stand, and I long to spring upon him and to hug him to my breast, -whereon in infancy his head reposed. I pray that I could speak to him, -give him a kiss, and bless him; but he is never alone. He is always -playing with, or talking to, the other little boys at the same school. -It seems hard that he should be so joyous while his own mother is so -wretched. Of what use to me is the property I have, when I cannot touch -or be recognised by my own flesh and blood. You know the master of the -school?" - -"Yes." - -"Could you not ask him to allow my child to visit you? I could then -see him once more, and speak to him. You were a friend of his father, -and the request would not seem strange." - -I felt myself placed in a very awkward position, and would make no -promise; but I told the woman I would consider the matter, and let her -know on the following day, provided she would stay at home, and not -visit that rock upon the road any more. She strove hard to extract from -me a pledge that I would yield to her request; but, difficult as it was -to deny her anything--she was still so beautiful and so interesting--I -would not commit myself, and held to what I had in the first instance -stated. - - * * * * * - -I paid a visit to the school at which my friend's child had been placed -by his uncle, a captain in the East India Company's service. I saw -some thirty scholars, of all colours, on the play-ground; but I soon -recognised the boy whom I was so curious to see. He was indeed very -like his father, not only in face and figure, but in manner, gait, and -bearing. I called to the little fellow, and he came and took my hand -with a frankness which charmed me. The schoolmaster told me that the -boy was very clever, and that, although only six years old, there were -but few of his playmates whom he did not excel. "His father was an old -friend of mine," I said. "Indeed our acquaintance began when we were -not older than this child. Would you have any objection to allow the -boy to spend a day with me?" - -"I promised his uncle," was the schoolmaster's reply, "that he should -not go out, and that I would watch him closely; but of course he will -be quite safe with you. Any day that you please to send for him he -shall be ready." - -"Does he know anything of his mother?" I inquired. - -"Nothing," said the schoolmaster. "He was very young when he came to -me. I have no idea who, or what, or where the mother is, for his uncle -did not enter into the particulars of his parentage. The mother must -have been very fair, if she were a native, the boy is so very slightly -touched with the tar-brush." - -I went home, and sent for the mother. She came; and I entreated her to -forego her request, for the child's sake. I represented to her that -it might unsettle him, and cause him to be discontented. I assured -her that he was now as happy and as well taken care of as any mother -could desire her offspring to be. On hearing this the poor woman -became frantic. She knelt at my feet and supplicated me to listen to -her entreaty--a sight of her child, a few words with him, and a kiss -from his lips. She said she did not wish him to know that she was his -mother; that if I would have him brought into my house, she would dress -in the garb of a servant woman, or _syce's_ (groom's) wife, and talk -to the boy without his being aware that she was the person who had -brought him into the world. - -"And you will not play me false?" said I, moved by her tears. "You will -not, when you have once got hold of the boy, decline to relinquish -that hold, and defy his friends--as mothers _have_ done--to take him -from you, except by an order of Court? Remember, Dooneea (that was her -name), that I am running a great risk; and am, moreover, deceiving the -schoolmaster, and behaving badly to the boy's uncle, by allowing myself -to be swayed by your tears and my own feelings. Consider what disgrace -you will bring upon me, if you fail to keep your word in this matter." -She bound herself by an oath that she would do all I required, if I -would only give her the longed-for interview. - -"To-morrow, at twelve," said I, "you may come here. At that hour, in -this room, the child shall be with me. Come in the dress of a poor -woman, and bring an infant with you. Let your excuse be that you have -come to complain of the ill-treatment you have received from your -husband, who is in my service. This will give me an opportunity of -bidding you remain until justice be done, and meanwhile you will see -the boy; and when I go out of the room, which will be only for a short -time, you can talk to him. Do you know your part, Dooneea?" - -"Yes, Sahib." - -"To-morrow, at twelve. Salaam, Dooneea!" - -"Salaam, Sahib." She went away with a cheerful countenance. - -There are no such actors in the world as the people of Hindostan. -The boy came to me a little before twelve, and was reading to me, -when Dooneea, with a child in her arms, and dressed in the shabbiest -apparel, rushed into the room, and commenced an harangue. She said she -had been beaten unmercifully by her husband, for no cause whatever; -that he had broken one of her fingers, and had attempted to stab her; -but she had saved her life by flight. All this she accompanied with -gesticulations and tears, according to the custom of complainants in -the East. I feigned to be very angry with the husband, and hastily left -the room, as if to make inquiry and to send for him. - -I ran round to an outer door, and peeped in upon Dooneea and her -boy. She was repeating the same tale to the child, and the child was -imploring her not to cry. It was a strange scene. The tears she was now -shedding were not mock tears. The boy asked her how her husband came to -beat her? She began thus:--"I was sitting near the fire talking to my -eldest boy, and had my arm round his waist--there, just as I put my arm -round your waist--and I said to the boy, 'It is getting very late and -you must go to sleep,' and I pulled him to my breast--like this--and -gave him a kiss on his forehead, then on his eyes--there--just as -gently as that, yes, just like that. Well, the boy began to cry--" - -"Why did he cry? Because you told him to go to bed?" - -"Yes," said Dooneea; "but his father came in, and thought I was teasing -the child. He abused me and then he beat me." - -The woman gazed at her child; and, having a good excuse for weeping in -her alleged wrongs, she did not scruple to avail herself of it. From -behind the screen which concealed me from her sight, and that of the -boy, I, too, shed tears of pity. - -I returned to the room, and said, "Dooneea, since you are afraid of -your life, do not leave this house until I tell you to do so; but give -your infant to the sweeper's wife to take care of. I do not like your -children in my house." - -How thankful she was! She placed her head upon my feet, and cracked her -knuckles over my knees. - -Charles Lamb says that the children of the poor are adults from -infancy. The same may be said of the children of the rich in India. -Dooneea's little boy discussed the conduct of the cruel husband, and -sympathised with the ill-used wife, as though he had been called upon -to adjudicate the affair in a court of justice. He even went so far as -to say, "What a wicked man to beat such a dear looking woman!" and he -gave Dooneea the rupee which I had given to him on the day previous -when I saw him at the school. With what delight did Dooneea tie up that -piece of coin, from the child's hand, in the corner of her garment. -It seemed far more precious to her than all the jewels which his dead -father had presented to her in days gone by. It was a gift from her -own child, who was living, but to her, dead. Dooneea spoke Persian--a -language the boy did not understand. His father had taught Dooneea that -language in order that their servants might not know the tenor of their -discourse. In that language Dooneea now spoke to me, in the boy's -presence. - -"Is he not very like his father?" she said. - -"Very," I replied. - -"Will he be as clever?" - -"He is too young for any one to judge of that." - -"But he will be as generous" (she pointed to the coin), "and he will be -as tall, as good-looking, as passionate, as gentle, and as kind." - -The boy's boots were muddy. Dooneea observed this, and with her own -little hands cleaned them; and smiling, she asked him for a present, in -that tone and manner which the poorest menial in Hindostan adopts when -addressing the most haughty superior. - -The boy blushed, and looked at me. - -"Have you nothing to give her?" said I. - -"Nothing," said he; "I gave her my rupee." - -"Give her that pretty blue ribbon which is round your neck, and I will -give you one like it," said I. - -He took the ribbon from his neck and gave it to Dooneea. - -Dooneea twisted the ribbon in her hair, and began to weep afresh. - -"Do not cry, you silly woman," said I; "I will see that your husband -does not beat you again." - -She understood me, and dried her tears. - -Dooneea again spoke to me in Persian. "Sahib," said she, "they do not -wash the children properly at that school. Order me to do this." - -"Charley, why did you come to me in this state, with your neck -unwashed?" I asked the boy. - -"We only wash in warm water once a week; on Saturdays," he replied. -"This is Thursday." - -"But I cannot allow you to dine with me in this state," said I, in -Hindostanee. "You must be well washed, my boy. Dooneea, give the child -a bath." - -With reluctant steps, the child followed his mother to my bathing-room. -I peeped through the purdah; for I began to fear that I should have -some trouble in parting the mother from her child, and half repented -that I had ever brought them together. While Dooneea was brushing the -child's hair, she said, "_Toomara mama kahan hai?_--Where is your -mother?" - -The boy answered, "I do not know." - -I began to cough, to inform Dooneea that I was within hearing, and that -I objected to that strain of examination. She ceased immediately. - -I had an engagement to ride with a lady on the Mall. My horse was -brought to the door; but I was afraid to leave Dooneea alone with the -boy, notwithstanding her solemn promise that she would not run off -with him. Yet I did not like to hurry that eternal separation on earth -which, for the boy's sake, I was determined their separation should be. - -I walked up and down my verandah for some time, meditating how I -could part them. At last it occurred to me that I would send the boy -away to his school by stratagem, and trust to chance how I might best -explain to Dooneea that he would not return. I ordered a _syce_ (groom) -to saddle a little pony that I possessed, and told Dooneea that I -wished the boy to take a ride with me, and that while we were absent, -she ought to take some food. It stung me to the soul to witness how -innocent she was of my intentions; for she seemed pleased that I should -show her child so much attention as to be seen in public with him. - -As soon as we were out of sight of my house, I took the road for -Landour, delivered the boy over to his schoolmaster, told my groom -to keep the pony out till after dark, cantered to the Mall, kept my -engagement, and returned to my home at about half-past seven o'clock. -There was Dooneea waiting for us in the verandah. - -"Where is the boy?" she inquired, on finding me return alone. - -I gave her no reply; but dismounted and approached her. Taking hold of -her wrists, I said, in the gentlest voice, "Dooneea, I have fulfilled -my promise. You have seen your child, you have spoken to him, you have -kissed him. Enough. He has now gone back to school. You must not see -him again, if you really love him." - -She trembled in my grasp, looked piteously in my face, gasped several -times for breath, as though she longed to speak, and swooned at my -feet. I lifted her, carried her into the house, and laid her upon -my bed; then sent for servants, and for a doctor, who lived near my -bungalow. The doctor came. While he felt her pulse, and placed his -hand over her heart, I briefly explained to him what had taken place. -He still kept his finger on the vein, and gazed on Dooneea's beautiful -face. Blood began to trickle from her nostrils, and from her ears, -staining the bed linen and the squalid garments in which she had -attired herself. In a few minutes the doctor released his hold of her -wrist. "Poor thing!" he ejaculated. "Her troubles are over! She is at -rest!" - - ---- Never more on her - Shall sorrow light, or shame. - -She was dead. - - * * * * * - -The old woman whom Dooneea called "mother," and the soldier-like -looking youth whom she called "brother," decamped with her jewels and -moveables, including my dog, "Duke;" but the house near Hurdwar, -and the bank shares--property to the value of about four thousand -pounds--remain invested in the names of trustees for the benefit of the -boy; who will, I trust, make good use of his little fortune, when he -becomes of age. - - - - -BLACK AND BLUE. - - -Forty years ago there went out to India, in the good ship _Globe_, -Ensign the Honourable Francis Gay, a younger son of the Right -Honourable the Earl of Millflower. The ensign was in his nineteenth -year, and was proceeding to join his regiment, which was stationed at -Chinsurah. - -Lord Millflower, in his heart, hoped that his son would never return: -he was so great a disgrace to his family. There was no vice with which -this youth was unfamiliar. He had been expelled from no fewer than -seven schools. In two instances his offence was theft. His conduct had -so preyed upon the mind of Lady Millflower that she lost her reason. -At seventeen, he committed several forgeries of his eldest brother's, -Lord Larkspeare's name; and he took a similar liberty with the name -of his father's steward. But these offences were hushed up. He was -also guilty of a deed of violence, for which his life would have been -forfeited had the case been tried, instead of compromised; for in -those days such a deed of violence was a capital offence. His family -were in constant fear lest he should be transported as a felon, or -hanged at Newgate. It was, therefore, some satisfaction to them when -the Honourable Francis consented to hold a commission and join his -regiment in India. Lord Millflower's other sons, four in number, were -all steady, well-conducted, and rather dull beings, while Francis -was remarkably gifted, as well as remarkably vicious. He had both -talent and genius, humour and wit; and, much as he had neglected his -education, he was well read and well informed for his time of life. In -personal appearance, also, the reprobate had the advantage over his -brethren. None of them were even good-looking except Francis, who was -really very handsome, well proportioned, and tall. His manners also, -always frank, were, when he pleased, dignified and courteous, and his -bearing peculiarly graceful. What he wanted was feeling, to regulate -his passions. Of feeling, he was in his youth, wholly destitute. - -Lord Millflower had taken the precaution of writing to the colonel -of the regiment his son was about to join, and of at the same time -enclosing a sum of money for the purpose of freeing Francis from any -pecuniary difficulty. Colonel Role himself had the misfortune to have -a very bad boy, and he, therefore, sympathized deeply with the worthy -nobleman, and resolved to do all in his power to reform the Honourable -Francis. - -After a passage of four months, the _Globe_ arrived at Calcutta, -and the Honourable Francis Gay proceeded to Chinsurah and joined. -For several weeks he conducted himself with (for him) wonderful -propriety. It is true, that he drank and played at billiards and -cards, and sometimes an oath would escape his lips, but he indulged -in no excesses. The officers of the regiment, indeed, thought the -ensign a great acquisition, for he was not only a very pleasant but an -entertaining companion. - -But, by degrees, the Honourable Francis fell off; and ere long, so far -from having a friend in the regiment, there was no one who would speak -to him. Even the colonel was compelled to forbid him his house. Many, -very many acts, unbecoming the character of an officer and a gentleman, -had been looked over by his seniors; but it was resolved that, on the -very next occasion of his transgressing, the Honourable Ensign should -be brought to a court-martial and dismissed the service. This resolve -was communicated to the ensign by the colonel, who had become tired of -lecturing him. - -"The next time you are intoxicated on the parade ground, or the next -time you use bad language in the mess-room, or the next time you -publicly insult a brother officer, provoking him to quarrel with you, -you will forfeit your commission." Being the son of an earl, he was -entitled--many colonels think--to every possible chance of redemption. -Had he been the son of a commoner, he would, most probably, have been -court-martialled and cashiered for the very first offence. - -"Thank you, sir," replied the ensign, with a low bow; "I will be more -cautious in future." - -He kept his word. From this time he did his duty extremely well; and, -to all outward appearance, was a reformed character. The officers -observing this, generously made advances with a view to resuming their -former relations with him. But the Honourable Francis repulsed their -advances. The whole regiment had thought proper to cut him; and he now -thought proper to cut the whole regiment. - -Several months passed, and during that period the ensign applied -himself to Hindostanee and Persian. He encouraged the natives to come -to his bungalow, to talk with him, and by night and by day pursued his -studies. The result was, that he soon conversed with perfect ease and -accuracy. He now began to live like a native--a Mahommedan; and, except -when he had to attend to his regimental duties, he wore the native -costume, and abstained from drink entirely. With truth, he might have -said with Conrad,-- - - The grape's gay juice my bosom never cheers; - I'm more than Moslem when the cup appears. - -His food was rice, milk, vegetables, and fruit; the bed upon which he -slept was hard and mean; such as the natives use. The whole of his -European furniture he sold by auction. - -His desire--the desire of a doubtfully reformed reprobate--to convert -to Christianity a young Mahommedan girl, astonished all those who -became acquainted with this desire. The girl was the daughter of a -water-carrier (Bheestie). She was not like the natives of India, but -more like those of Africa. She was coal black, and had thick lips and -wavy hair. She was short for her age--fourteen years--but thickset, -with powerful limbs. The girl's father told the servants belonging to -other officers of the regiment, and the curious whim of Gay's became a -topic of conversation. - -Jehan, the bheestie's daughter, was a virtuous girl, and Francis Gay -had never approached her with a view to undermining her virtue. It was -no easy matter to persuade her to change her religion; but, strange to -say, he at length succeeded, and Noor Jehan was baptized as Ellen by a -missionary who journeyed to Chinsurah for the purpose of performing the -ceremony. The sanity or otherwise of the ensign was now very generally -discussed in the regiment, and the prevalent opinion was that he was -a lunatic. But the good colonel was a little angry at the surmise. -"Surely," he said, "you do not accuse a man of being a maniac because -he has converted an infidel." - -The regiment was ordered to march to Cawnpore, whither Ellen and her -father also proceeded. Cawnpore was then the chief station in the -upper provinces of India. Five thousand troops were quartered there. -A regiment of dragoons, a regiment of native cavalry, a regiment of -British infantry, and two of native infantry. Besides horse and foot -there were companies of artillery, and sappers and miners. - -Very shortly after the regiment was settled in Cawnpore, the Honourable -Francis Gay paid a visit to the chaplain, and intimated a desire to be -married. The chaplain of course replied that he should be most happy, -and there and then a day and hour was appointed for the performance -of the rite; but, when the reverend gentleman came to hear who was -to be the Honourable Ensign's bride--the black daughter of a native -water-carrier--he could not help remarking: - -"I am sorry, Mr. Gay, that I cannot with sincerity offer you my -congratulations." - -To which the ensign responded: - -"My good sir, I did not ask them." And retired with a bow. - -The chaplain drove to the house of Colonel Role, and told him of the -interview which had just taken place between himself and Ensign the -Honourable Francis Gay. The colonel called upon the young man, and -entreated him to reflect. "I _have_ reflected, sir," was the ensign's -reply. The colonel then went to the general, and the general sent for -Mr. Gay to attend at his bungalow. Mr. Gay obeyed the summons, and -listened with attention and much calmness to a long and violent speech. -When it was ended, however, Mr. Gay, with extreme courtesy, and in the -quietest of tones, spoke thus: - -"General, you had a right to command my attendance here upon any -military matter, but not upon any civil matter. However, I waive that, -because I believe your intention to be a good one. You, general, have -arrived at the years of discretion--perhaps at something beyond those -years. You have, at all events, arrived at a time of life when the -tumultuous passion of youth can no longer be pleaded in extenuation of -certain follies. Now tell me, general, which of us, think you, sins -the most, and sets the worst example to the men, European and native, -in this station?--I, who wish to marry this good Christian girl; or -you, who have in your house----" Mr. Gay then made mention of two very -discreditable members of the general's establishment. "This is a -question which I shall put to the commander-in-chief, if you abide by -your threat to report me to his excellency." - -That night the general and Colonel Role held a consultation. The -colonel still doubted the ensign's insanity. It had become a fixed idea -in the regiment that Gay was insane. The general caught at this, and a -committee of doctors was appointed to examine the ensign. They reported -that Ensign the Honourable Francis Gay was not only of sound mind, but -one of the most intellectual young men in the station; and that he had -explained to their entire satisfaction certain conversations which he -had frequently held with himself in Chinsurah, at the mess-table. - -The wedding-day had been put off in consequence of these proceedings; -but the parties now met in the church, which was crowded with -officers, including nearly the entire medical staff, who were curious -to witness the spectacle. There stood the tall and handsome English -aristocrat, and beside him his coal-black bride, dressed in garments of -red silk, trimmed with yellow and gold tinsel. The ensign acted as the -interpreter, and explained to Ellen in Hindoostanee the vows she was -required to take. This made the ceremony a very long one. When it was -concluded, the bride got into her palanquin and was carried home. The -bridegroom mounted his pony, and rode by her side. - -Ellen--now the Honourable Mrs. Gay--was a girl of great natural -ability, of an excellent disposition, and was blessed with an excellent -temper. She had, moreover, a very sweet voice. After her marriage she -was never seen by any European in Cawnpore, except her husband. It was -believed that the ensign saved more than two-thirds of his pay, which -Ellen, who had an excellent idea of business, used to lend out in small -sums to people in the bazaar at the rate of fifty per cent. per mensem. -If she lent a rupee (two shillings), she would get back at the end of -the month a rupee and eight annas (three shillings) by way of interest. - -A year passed away, and a son and heir was born to the Honourable -Francis Gay. The child had light blue eyes, exactly like those of his -father; but his complexion was quite as black as his mother's. When -the child was three months old, it was brought to the church, and -publicly christened, Mr. Gay and the pay-sergeant of the company he -belonged to being the godfathers, and Ellen the godmother. The names -given to the infant were Ernest Augustus George Francis Frederick--such -being the names respectively of Lord Millflower's sons. Ernest was the -eldest, Augustus the second, George the third, Francis the fourth, -and Frederick the fifth and youngest. Not long after the birth of his -son, Ensign Gay obtained his promotion to the rank of lieutenant, and -received, of course, an increase of pay. - -Fever became prevalent, and cholera. Several of the captains and senior -lieutenants fell victims; and, in less than three years, Lieutenant Gay -got his company (the regiment was now at Meerut), and retired from the -army by the sale of his captain's commission. It was supposed that he -was worth a great deal of money--a lac of rupees (ten thousand pounds) -at the very least. Whither he went no one knew, and no one cared. One -of the servants, whom he discharged previous to leaving the station of -Meerut, said he believed that his master had gone either to Affghanistan -or to Lahore. - -Let us now return to Europe. A few years after Captain Gay had sold -out of the army, his eldest brother, Lord Larkspeare, was killed while -grouse-shooting, by the accidental discharge of his gun; his second -brother, Augustus, a captain in the army, was lost in a vessel which -was bringing him home from Canada; his third brother, George, died -of small-pox three days after he had taken his father's second title. -Of his son Francis's marriage, Lord Millflower had been informed, and -also of the birth of the black child, the Honourable Ernest Augustus -George Francis Frederick Gay. Colonel Role had deemed it his duty not -to withhold these facts, albeit they were disagreeable to communicate -to the noble earl. Lord Millflower begged of Colonel Role to institute -an inquiry into the fate of his Francis, and the Colonel did so, but -without success. No clue to his whereabout could be discovered, nor -could any one say what had become of him. Under these circumstances -it was taken for granted that he was dead. Another five years passed -away, and the Earl of Millflower departed this life. He was, of course, -succeeded in his titles and estates by his son Frederick. - -Now let us return to Francis. He became a dealer in precious stones, -and travelled over the whole of India, under the name of Mustapha Khan, -visiting the various native courts. Every tour that he made occupied -him three years. Constantly moving about in the sun had tanned his once -fair face; and neither from his appearance--for he was dressed as a -native--nor from his speech, could the natives themselves detect that -he was an European. He gave out that his birthplace was Nepaul, where -the natives are sometimes born with blue eyes. He bought and sold, -and was apparently very happy in his occupation. His wife and son -invariably accompanied him in his travels. He had never written to his -family since his arrival in India, and had not received letters from -any member thereof. India he loved, England he detested, and would not -have taken up his father's title if it had been a dukedom. He never -approached the abode of an European, and never saw a newspaper. He was -not likely, therefore, to hear of the changes that had taken place at -home. In the bazaar at Delhi Captain Gay had a small house, in which -were deposited his effects, a few boxes filled with clothes, books, -&c., his sword, and the uniform he used formerly to wear. These were -under the care of a man-servant, a sweeper. The bulk of his worldly -wealth he invariably carried about his person, as many natives of India -do. - -Ernest Gay was now twelve years of age. He was usually called by his -parents Chandee, a word signifying silver. Chandee was clever and -cunning, and had a wonderful talent for calculating numbers. In less -than a minute, by counting on his fingers, he would tell you the -interest due on such sums as three rupees, five annas, and seven pic, -for twenty-one days, at forty-one three-fourth per cent. English he -had never heard spoken; and as he had never been taught that language, -he did not understand a single word of it. Nor could he read or write -Hindoostanee, although he spoke it in all its purity and elegance. - -There was about to take place a marriage in the family of the Rajah -of Pulbecala. Mustapha Khan (Francis Gay) journeyed from Delhi to the -Rajah's court, to exhibit his jewels. He had diamonds, rubies, and -emeralds of great price, and some of these he hoped to dispose of to -advantage. The Rajah, however, had already provided himself with these -matters, and therefore confined his purchases to a large cat's-eye -ring, for which he paid Mustapha fifty gold mohurs (eighty pounds). -On his way back to Delhi, at a place called Kunda Ka Serai, a band of -robbers attacked the jewel-merchant. They hacked him to pieces with -their swords, but they spared his wife and the boy. The whole of their -treasures were stolen; even the rings from Ellen's ears and fingers, -and the gold bangles which Chandee wore upon his arms. - -When her senses were restored to her, Ellen, with the assistance of -her son, dug a grave in the sand, and buried her butchered husband. -The bearers who carried the palanquins ran away as soon as the robbers -attacked the party, and were no more seen. Most probably they had some -small share of the booty, the value of which the Sirdar estimated -at four lacs of rupees (forty thousand pounds). Whatever had been -Francis Gay's vices when a youth--and they were great enough in all -conscience--he had been a kind and affectionate husband to Ellen, and -she most bitterly deplored his loss; violent was the grief of Chandee, -who was devotedly fond of his father. - -They heaped stones over the grave of the dead man, to mark the spot -where he was laid, and, after their own fashion, offered up prayers for -the repose of his soul. - -The murder having been committed within the dominions of an independent -prince, Ellen knew that her wrongs were not likely to be redressed if -she complained; and that the British Government would not interfere, -unless she made known that her husband was an Englishman. This she felt -would be contrary to the wishes of the dead. Hopeless and helpless, -she and her son made the best of their way to Delhi, where, having -collected a few debts that were due to them, they established a small -shop for the sale of native sweetmeats. They carried on this business -for three or four years, when Chandee grew weary of it, and set up in -the world as a box-waller, or pedler. His box contained pens, ink, -and paper, needles, pins, knives, scissors, soap, eau de Cologne, -tooth-brushes, matches, and so forth. His customers were the European -officers, who gave him the name of Black and Blue, from the colour -of his eyes and skin. A box-waller is always a great cheat--as great -a rascal as was Autolycus himself; Black and Blue, if the truth must -be told, was not an exception to the rule or race. But no one could -grudge him his profits when the cuffs and kicks which were playfully -administered to him by the young lieutenants and ensigns are taken -into consideration. Black and Blue always took the rough usage of his -customers in excellent part; and would generally make some such appeal -as this (he had picked up a little English by this time): "Ah, well! I -know! You rich white gentlemans--I poor black devil. I pray all day all -night that ensign be made leeft'nunt; leeft'nunt, capitaine; capitaine, -capitain-meejor; meejor, kunnull; kunnull, meejor-jinneral; and then -God bless your father and mother, and brother and sister; and then, for -all that pray, I get so much kick and so many bad words. God make us -all--black and white; all equal right up above. You want blacking? Here -you are. Very good blacking--quite genuine; only one rupee a bottle. I -suppose you not got ready money! Very well, I wait till pay-day come. -I very poor man. You my master. Khuda Lord Kuren." The meaning of this -expression, with which most natives wind up a speech to an European, -signifies, May God make you a lord! - -When Black and Blue was no more than five years old, he was playing -one morning in his father's compound (enclosure--the land around the -bungalow), when a pariah dog rushed in and mangled him very severely. -The dog was rabid. Captain Gay called in the doctor of a native cavalry -regiment, who lived in the next bungalow, who cauterized the wounds. -The child was bitten on the arms, legs, and chest, and was under the -doctor's treatment for upwards of five weeks. On several occasions when -he visited his patient, the doctor saw and conversed with Ellen, who -was naturally very anxious touching the child's safety. This doctor was -one of the number who witnessed the marriage of Ensign Gay at Cawnpore, -and was also present when his offspring was christened. - -Shortly after the recovery of the little boy, the doctor had been -appointed a presidency surgeon, and had charge of one of the hospitals -in Calcutta, where he remained for upwards of twenty years. He was then -appointed superintending surgeon of the Meerut division. He had a son -at Delhi, a lieutenant in the foot artillery, and occasionally went -over (the distance is only forty miles from Meerut) to pay him a visit. - -On one of these occasions, Black and Blue, who had been sent for, made -his appearance with his box, sat down on the carpet cross-legged, and -opened out his treasures. There were several young officers in the -bungalow, chums of the lieutenant; and, while the bargaining was going -on, they began to tease Black and Blue. One removed his turban with -the point of a stick; another sprinkled him with his eau de Cologne; -a third touched the tip of his great toe (he had left his shoes, out -of respect, in the verandah) with the lighted end of a cheroot. Black -and Blue howled with pain, whereupon the two roared with laughter. The -doctor, who was reading a paper, begged the young men to desist, and, -somewhat angrily, expostulated with his son for treating a native so -cruelly; for he was touched with poor Black and Blue's appeal--"God -make us all. When fire burns black man, black man feels as much pain as -white man. In hell, you rich gentlemans sing out just as much as poor -box-waller." - -"Black and Blue is used to it, governor," said the lieutenant. - -"Stuff, Robert!" said the doctor; "I address myself to you, and not to -these gentlemen, when I say that I have no patience with such flippant -cruelty." - -"Sahib," said Black and Blue, looking up at the doctor, "you are very -good gentlemans--very kind man, and very handsome. May God make you -a lord; may your throne be perpetual, and may your end be peace; but -do not be angry with these gentlemen. They play tricks with Black -and Blue; but they are no enemies. If enemies, what for send to buy -Black and Blue's property? Sir, you greatly oblige Black and Blue -if you smile once more on these gentlemans. Sir, do you want any -violent (violet) powder, or one small patent corkiscrew (corkscrew)? -All men born equal; God's rain wet black man and white man all the -same. Devil's fire burn, too, both the same." Here he laughed at the -lieutenant. "Take one packet of violent-powder. Every one rupee a -packet. Well, then, take two for one, twelve. That can't hurt anybody. -Less than prime cost, I give you my solemn word. Handsome sir, don't be -angry." - -The doctor, his attention attracted by those light blue eyes, set in -that very black skin, stared at Black and Blue for several minutes -after he had finished the speech above quoted. He had never before -seen such a peculiar expression as that on the face of the box-waller. -Suddenly he recollected an instance of black skin and light blue eyes; -but in that case the boy was half-European, the child of the Honourable -Francis Gay. - -Black and Blue had occasion to change his position; and, in doing so, -exposed the calves of his legs. On one of them was a scar, quite round, -and about the size of a shilling. - -"Good God!" exclaimed the doctor, who became both surprised and -agitated, and allowed the newspaper to fall from his hand. - -"What is the matter, governor?" asked the lieutenant. - -"Nothing--nothing!" said the doctor, still staring at Black and Blue, -whose countenance was no longer strange to him. "How did you come by -that mark?" he at length asked, pointing to the scar. - -"I don't know, Sahib." - -"But did not your parents ever tell you?" - -"No, Sahib. Parents used to say that it come of itself." - -This was no doubt true. - -"Have you another mark like that on your right arm--just here?" - -The doctor placed his finger on the sleeve of the man's dress. - -"Yes. But bigger mark that one. How you know that, Sahib?" He pulled up -his sleeve and exhibited a scar the size of half-a-crown. - -"And another here--on your hip--and another here, on your ribs?" - -"Yes. All them marks got, sir. How you know that, Sahib?" - -The doctor was quite satisfied that Black and Blue was no other than -his little patient of former years, and consequently the heir to the -Earldom of Millflower. Could it be possible, he thought, that Captain -Gay eventually abandoned his black wife and child! If not, how came -it that the boy (now a man of two or three and twenty) should be a -miserable pedler, living in the Bazaar at Delhi? When Black and Blue -had sold all that the young officers wanted to buy--when no amount of -coaxing and flattering would induce them to take anything more--he -was about to take his departure; but the doctor desired him to stay, -and intimated to his son that he wished to have some conversation in -private with Black and Blue. - -"Where is your father?" the doctor asked. - -"He dead, Sahib." - -"When did he die?" - -"Long time ago--ten or twelve year ago." - -"Where did he die?" - -"Mans--robber mans--kill him with sword." - -"And your mother?" - -Black and Blue told the doctor the whole of their history since the -death of Captain Gay, and his statements were substantially true. Black -and Blue, however, declared most positively that his father was a -native, and no European. - -"Do you think," the doctor inquired, "that your mother would see me, if -I went down to her home?" - -"O yes--why not? Come along, Sahib. I will show where she live. You -call for palanquin and get on. I run alongside." - -The doctor's curiosity was very strong, and he could not resist the -desire to satisfy it at once. He accepted Black and Blue's invitation, -and went to the house occupied by Ellen. Habited as a native, she was -sitting on a coarse mat, smoking, and at the same time mending an old -garment of her son's. - -The doctor recognised Ellen immediately, albeit she was now aged. -But at first she did not recognise him. He was altered very much in -appearance. His hair and whiskers had become very grey, and he no -longer wore a moustache. - -Ellen parried all the questions that were put to her, and affected to -be as much surprised by them as by the doctor's visit. The statement of -her son she supported, that her husband was a native of India. - -"O, but surely," said the doctor, "this was the boy whom I attended at -Meerut, many years ago, when you and your Sahib were living near the -Begum's bridge?" - -The poor woman looked at him for a moment, then repeated his name, and -burst into tears. Her recollections crowded before her too thickly to -admit of her dissembling any further with her visitor; and she admitted -that she was the widow of Captain Gay, of her Majesty's ---- Regiment -of Foot. - -The doctor was under no promise to Ellen to keep his discovery secret; -and feeling at liberty to speak of it, did so publicly as well as in -private. The peerages were looked into, and Black and Blue's pedigree -examined. There were the names of all the late lord's sons, and sure -enough there was Francis's name above that of Frederick's, the present -earl; opposite to the name of Francis were the letters signifying, -"died unmarried." Black and Blue of course became an object of great -curiosity. His right to a title did not induce him to alter his prices -in any way, and hence he was kicked and cuffed, and abused as much as -ever, by the young lieutenants and ensigns, who, by-the-bye, always -addressed him as "my lord," and "your lordship." - -"Pomatum, my lord! Pomatum, did you say? Yes! But let me smell it. -O! your lordship calls this pomatum! I call it hog's lard washed in -sandalwood water. How much? One rupee! O, you villanous peer of the -realm! are you not ashamed of yourself?" - -Another would thus address him: - -"Look here, Lord Black and Blue. Why don't you go home and upset your -uncle? Turn him out of his title and estates--eh? You would be sure to -marry some beautiful girl." - -To this Black and Blue would respond: - -"What do I want with title and beautiful gal! This is my home, and I -got good business, good many friends, and two or three very beautiful -gal." - -"Where, Black and Blue?" - -"Ah! that is my business." - -"Well, what will you sell your title for?" - -"Well, what you offer?" - -"One hundred rupees" (10_l._) - -"Say one hundred and twenty-five." - -"No." - -"Well, take it--there. Give money, and I give receipt. You write it -out; I sign it. Sold one title to Ensign Matheson for a hundred rupees." - -"But there are two titles, you ass; one an earldom, and the other a -viscounty." - -"Well, you take the two; give two hundred rupees for both." - -"No. The one I have already bought is the biggest and of the best -quality; the other is the small one, and of inferior quality." - -"Well, I make reduction in price; take one with the other, and give me -one hundred and seventy-five rupees. That can't hurt anybody that wants -a title." - -Would any of these lads, who had nothing in the world beyond their -pay, have consented to an union between Black and Blue and one of -their sisters, after he had come into what were his rights? No! Would -the poorest and most unprincipled officers--civil and military--in -the whole of India? No! Would any European girl of respectability who -had lived in India, to say nothing of the daughters of gentlemen and -ladies, have wedded the black heir to the title and estates of the Earl -of Millflower? No. Not in India could his sable lordship have found a -virtuous white woman to accept his hand! - -In due course the story of Black and Blue's birth crept into the -columns of one of the Calcutta newspapers, and ere long an attorney -of the Supreme Court paid a visit to the imperial city, and had -an interview with Black and Blue. He proposed to the box-waller -to take him to England, and establish his claim to the estates, -which he truthfully represented as worth more than half a million -sterling--fifty lacs of rupees. He, the attorney, would pay all -expenses of the suit, and in the event of success, which was certain, -would receive only five per cent. or fifty thousand pounds, leaving -Black and Blue a balance of forty-five lacs. - -Black and Blue, who loved and adored money, on hearing such a sum -spoken of, rolled his blue eyes and red tongue, and almost fainted. But -then, to cross the black water!--as the natives call the ocean--that -thought made him shudder and shake his head. - -The attorney represented to him that he should live in great comfort -during the voyage; that the best cabin in the ship should be taken for -him; that he should have servants about him; and drawing forth a number -of prints of English beauties, he exhibited them to the gaze of Black -and Blue. - -Black and Blue said he would consult his European friends. He did so, -and many of those friends dissuaded him from going to England. Not -that they had any doubt as to the issue of his claim, if it should be -disputed; but upon the reasonable ground that he was very happy where -he was. Others advised him to go by all means, and take up his title -and the wealth that pertained to it. His mother entreated him not to -leave her. But in the end the voice of the attorney prevailed, and -Black and Blue declared himself ready to accompany him. - -Ten thousand rupees (one thousand pounds) were given to Ellen for her -support during the temporary absence of her son, who was to return as -soon as he had realized his forty-five lacs (four hundred and fifty -thousand pounds). It was said that a mercantile firm in Calcutta, in -which an illustrious native gentleman was a partner, advanced the means -required for the purpose of establishing the black man's right to the -earldom. - -The attorney possessed himself of the proofs. He had the papers of -the Honourable Francis Gay, amongst which were letters from the late -Lord Millflower to his eldest brother, Lord Larkspeare. He also, in -the presence of credible witnesses, received from the hands of Ellen -the dead man's uniform; secondly, he had the deposition on oath of -the superintending surgeon, and of several other officers who were -cognizant of every particular. Many gave these depositions with -reluctance, but felt bound to speak the truth when interrogated. In a -word, the attorney got his case up remarkably well. - -Black and Blue and the attorney left Calcutta in one of the large -passenger ships, and in the month of April landed at Gravesend, whence -they journeyed to London. Here Black and Blue was prevailed upon to -wear Christian clothes. In his snow-white muslin dress, his pink -turban, and his red slippers covered with gold embroidery, Black and -Blue had looked an aristocratic native, notwithstanding he was so very -black. [Colour is no criterion of high caste or rank in India. The -late Maharajah Rooder Singh, of Darbungah, whose family--to borrow a -phrase from "Burke's Peerage"--is one of stupendous antiquity, had -the complexion of an African; while his younger brother, Basdeo, who -now sits on the throne, is far fairer than his Highness the Maharajah -Dulleep Singh.] But in his black trousers, black waistcoat, black -surtout coat, white neckcloth, black beaver hat, and Wellington boots, -poor Black and Blue looked truly hideous; while his slouching Indian -gait would have led most people to conclude that he was intoxicated. -Poor Black and Blue had never tasted anything stronger than water in -the whole course of his life. - -The attorney had an interview with Frederick Earl of Millflower. He -wrote to the firm in Calcutta to that effect, and he further stated -that the Earl had set him at defiance, and that he was about to -institute a suit in the proper court. - -This was the last that was ever heard in India of Black and Blue, or of -the attorney. Inquiries were instituted, but with no avail. There were -many conjectures; the one most generally entertained was, that poor -Black and Blue and his undoubted claim were disposed of by the attorney -for a sum which satisfied him, and that Black and Blue was secretly led -into indulgences in some foreign country and died of their effects. But -his mother, who is still living, will not believe that he is dead, and -feels convinced that some day or other he will turn up and be restored -to her. - -"What on earth became of that black earl?" is a question very often put -by many who were acquainted with his strange history. - - - - -THE RANEE OF JHANSI. - - -About a month after the order had gone forth for the annexation of the -little province of Jhansi (in 1854), and previous to a wing of the 13th -Native Infantry occupying the country, I received a letter in Persian, -written upon "gold paper," from the Ranee, begging me to pay her a -visit. The letter was brought to me by two natives of rank. One had -been the financial minister of the late Rajah. The other was the head -vakeel (attorney) of the Ranee. - -The revenues of Jhansi were some six lacs (60,000_l._) a year, and -after disbursing the expenses of government, and paying the troops in -the late Rajah's service, the balance was some two lacs and a half -(25,000_l._) profit. The "troops" were not numerous, under 1000 in all, -and they were chiefly horsemen. The arrangement, when the country was -annexed, was simply this: that the Ranee should receive a pension of -6000_l._ a year, to be paid monthly. - -The Ranee's object in asking me to visit her at Jhansi was to consult -me as to the possibility of getting the order for annexation annulled, -or reversed. I should mention that the Ranee had applied to me at the -instance of a gentleman of the Civil Service, who had once been the -Resident, or Governor-General's agent, at a native court in the upper -provinces; a gentleman who, in common with many other officials of -rank in India, regarded the annexation of Jhansi--"a trumpery state -after all"--not only as impolitic, but unjust and without excuse. The -facts were briefly these:--The late Rajah had no issue by his only wife -(the woman who caused our countrymen and countrywomen and children -to be put to death in the fort, and who, according to late advices, -has been killed), and some weeks previous to his death, being "sound -of mind, though infirm in body," he publicly adopted an heir, and -gave notice to the Government of having done so through the proper -channel--namely, the Governor-General's representative then stationed -at Jhansi. In short, all the forms required by the Government to -prevent fraud in such cases, had been complied with. The child was -taken into the Rajah's lap, in the presence of his assembled people, -and in the presence of the Governor-General's representative, and he, -moreover, signed a document, duly attested, reciting his act and deed. -The Rajah was a Brahmin; the adopted boy was a near relative of his. - -The Jhansi Rajah had been particularly faithful to the British -Government, and Lord William Bentinck had presented the brother of the -late Rajah with a British ensign, and a letter giving him the title -of "Rajah," and assuring him that that title, and the independence -attached to it, would be guaranteed by the British Government to him, -the Rajah, and his heirs and _successors_ (by adoption). That that -treaty (for such it purported to be) of Lord William Bentinck was -violated, without the slightest shadow of a pretence, there cannot -be any sort of doubt. In the time of the Peishwah, the late Rajah of -Jhansi was simply a large zemindar (landholder), and had he remained -untitled there can be no question that his last wishes, so far as the -disposition of his property was concerned, would have been attended to. -It was the acceptance of the "Rajahship" which led to the confiscation -of his estates, and the exchange of 6000_l._ a year for 25,000_l._ -a year. Strange as that assertion may seem to the reader, it is -nevertheless true. - -I was at Agra when I received the Ranee's letter, and Agra is two days' -journey. Even as I travelled from Jhansi, I sympathized with the woman. -The boy whom the Rajah had adopted was only six years old, and during -his minority, that is to say, until he had attained his eighteenth -year, the Ranee--so the Rajah willed--was to have been the Regent, -and the boy's guardian; and it is no small matter for a woman--a -native woman of rank, too--to give up such a position and become a -pensioner, even on 6000_l._ a year. Let me detail the particulars of -my journey to the residence of the Ranee of Jhansi. I got into my -palanquin at dusk, and on the following morning, at daylight, arrived -at Gwalior. The Rajah of Jhansi had a small house about a mile and -a half from the cantonment, which was used as a halting-place, and -thither I was taken by the minister and the vakeel who accompanied -me. At ten o'clock, after I had breakfasted and smoked my hookah, it -was proposed that we "go on at once." The day was very warm, but the -Ranee had sent a large and comfortable palanquin carriage; in short, -it was more like a small room than a carriage, fitted up as it was -with every convenience, including even a punkah, which was pulled from -the outside by a servant, who sat upon a foot-board. In the carriage, -beside myself and the minister and vakeel, was a khansamah, or butler, -who, with the apparatus between his knees, kept on cooling water, and -wine, and beer, in order that, whenever I felt thirsty, I might be -supplied at a moment's notice. This enormous carriage was drawn by a -pair of horses of immense strength and swiftness. Each stood about -seventeen hands high. The late Rajah had imported them from France at -a cost of 1500_l._ The road was rather rough in many places, but, on -the average, we got over it at the rate of about nine miles an hour. At -about two o'clock in the day we entered the Jhansi territory, having -changed horses twice, and we had now some nine miles to drive. Hitherto -we had been escorted only by four sowars (horsemen), but now our escort -amounted to about fifty, each horseman carrying an immense spear, and -dressed much in the same way as the Irregular Cavalry in the pay of the -East India Company. And along the road, at intervals of a few hundred -yards, were horsemen drawn up, and as we passed, they joined the -cavalcade; so that by the time we came in sight of the fortress--if -those old weak walls, surmounted by some nine pieces of old ordnance -of inferior calibre, deserved the name--the whole strength of the -Jhansi cavalry was in attendance. The carriage was driven to a place -called "the Rajah's garden," where I alighted, and was conducted by the -financial minister and the vakeel and other servants of state, to a -large tent, which was pitched beneath a clump of gigantic mango trees. -The tent, which was that in which the late Rajah used to receive the -civil and military officers of the British Government, was elegantly -fitted up, and carpeted; and at least a dozen domestic servants were -ready to do my bidding. I must not omit to mention that the companions -of my journey--the minister and the vakeel--were both men of good -ability and pleasing manners. They were, moreover, men of learning, so -that my time upon the road had been beguiled very agreeably. - -The Ranee had consulted one of the many Brahmins who were supported by -her as to the most propitious hour for me to come to the purdah behind -which she sat; and the Brahmins had told her that it must be between -the setting of the sun and the rising of the moon, which was then near -her full; in other words, between half-past five and half-past six -o'clock. - -This important matter having been communicated to me, I expressed -myself perfectly satisfied with the time of the appointment, and -ordered dinner accordingly. This done, the financial minister, after -betraying some embarrassment, intimated that he wished to speak to me -on a rather delicate subject, and that, with my permission, he would -order all the menial servants in attendance on me, including my own -sirdar-bearer (valet), to leave the tent and stand at a distance. I -complied, of course, and presently found myself alone with only the -"officials" (eight or nine in number) of the little native state of -Jhansi. What the finance minister wished to ask me was this--Would -I consent to leave my shoes at the door when I entered the Ranee's -apartment? I inquired if the Governor-General's agent did so. He -replied that the Governor-General's agent had never had an interview -with the Ranee; and that the late Rajah had never received any European -gentleman in the private apartments of the palace, but in a room set -apart for the purpose, or in the tent in which we were conversing. I -was in some difficulty, and scarcely knew what to say, for I had a few -years previously declined to be presented to the King of Delhi, who -insisted on Europeans taking off their shoes when they entered his -presence. The idea was repugnant to my mind, and I said as much to the -minister of the late Rajah of Jhansi; and I asked him whether he would -attend a levée at the palace of the Queen of England, if informed that -he must enter her Majesty's presence with his head uncovered, as did -all her subjects, from the lowest to the highest. To this question he -would not give me a direct answer, but remarked, "You may wear your -hat, Sahib; the Ranee will not mind that. On the contrary, she will -regard it as an additional mark of respect towards her." Now this -was what I did not want. My desire was, that she should consider the -wearing of my hat, supposing I consented to take off my shoes, as a -species of compromise on her part as well as on my part. But I was so -amused with this bargaining, as it were, that I consented; giving them -distinctly to understand, however, that it was to be considered not -as a compliment to her rank and dignity, but to her sex, and her sex -alone. That great point settled, I partook of a very sumptuous repast -that was prepared for me, and awaited patiently the setting of the sun -or the rising of the moon, determined, however, that I would wear my -hat--a black "wide-awake," covered with a white turban. - -The hour came, and the white elephant (an Albino, one of the very few -in all India), bearing on his immense back a silver houdah, trimmed -with red velvet, was brought to the tent. I ascended the steps, which -were also covered with red velvet, and took my place. The mahoot, or -elephant-driver, was attired in the most gorgeous manner. The ministers -of state, mounted on white Arabs, rode on either side of the elephant; -the Jhansi cavalry lining the road to the palace, and thus forming an -avenue. The palace was about half a mile distant from my encampment -ground. - -Ere long we arrived at the gates, at which the attendants on foot -began to knock violently. A wicket was opened, and closed hastily. -Information was then sent to the Ranee; and, after a delay of about -ten minutes, the "hookum" (order) came to open the gates. I entered -on the elephant, and alighted in a court-yard. The evening was very -warm, and I fancied that I should be suffocated by the crowd of natives -(retainers) who flocked around me. Observing my discomfiture, the -minister imperiously commanded them to "stand back!" After another -brief delay, I was asked to ascend a very narrow stone staircase, -and on the landing was met by a native gentleman, who was some -relative to the Ranee. He showed me first into one room and then into -another. These rooms (six or seven), like all rooms of the kind, were -unfurnished, save and except that the floors were carpeted; but from -the ceiling punkahs and chandeliers were suspended, and on the walls -were native pictures of Hindoo gods and goddesses, with here and there -a large mirror. At length I was led to the door of a room, at which the -native gentleman knocked. A female voice from within inquired, "Who is -there?" - -"Sahib," was the reply. After another brief delay, the door was opened -by some unseen hand, and the native gentleman asked me to enter, -informing me, at the same time, that he was about to leave me. A -brief delay now occurred upon my part. It was with great difficulty -that I could bring myself to take off my shoes. At length, however, I -accomplished it, and entered the apartment in "stocking feet." In the -centre of the room, which was richly carpeted, was an arm-chair of -European manufacture, and around it were strewn garlands of flowers -(Jhansi is famous for its beautiful and sweet-smelling flowers). At -the end of the room was a purdah or curtain, and behind it people were -talking. I sat myself down in the arm-chair, and instinctively took -off my hat; but recollecting my resolve, I replaced it, and rather -firmly--pulling it well down, so as completely to conceal my forehead. -It was a foolish resolve, perhaps, on my part, for the hat kept the -breeze of the punkah from cooling my temples. - -I could hear female voices prevailing upon a child to "go to the -Sahib," and could hear the child objecting to do so. Eventually, he -was "launched" into the room; and upon my speaking kindly to the -child, he approached me--but very timidly. His dress and the jewels -on his person, satisfied me that the child was the adopted son of the -late Rajah, and the rejected heir to the little throne of Jhansi. -He was rather a pretty child, but very short for his years, and -broad-shouldered--like most of the Mahratta children that I have seen. - -Whilst I was speaking to the child, a shrill and discordant voice -issued from behind the purdah, and I was informed that the boy was -the Maharajah, who had just been despoiled of his rights by the -Governor-General of India. I fancied that the voice was that of some -very old woman--some slave or enthusiastic retainer, perhaps; but the -child having imagined that he was spoken to, replied, "Maharanee!" and -thus I was told the error of my conclusion. - -And now the Ranee, having invited me to come closer to the purdah, -began to pour forth her grievances; and, whenever she paused, the -women by whom she was surrounded, set up a sort of chorus--a series of -melancholy ejaculations--such as "Woe is me!" "What oppression!" It -reminded me somewhat of a scene in a Greek tragedy--comical as was the -situation. - -I had heard from the vakeel that the Ranee was a very handsome woman, -of about six or seven and twenty years of age, and I was very curious -indeed to get a glimpse of her; and whether it was by accident, or by -design on the Ranee's part, I know not, my curiosity was gratified. -The curtain was drawn aside by the little boy, and I had a good view -of the lady. It was only for a moment, it is true; still I saw her -sufficiently to be able to describe her. She was a woman of about -the middle size--rather stout, but not too stout. Her face must have -been very handsome when she was younger, and even now it had many -charms--though, according to my idea of beauty, it was too round. The -expression also was very good, and very intelligent. The eyes were -particularly fine, and the nose very delicately shaped. She was not -very fair, though she was far from black. She had no ornaments, strange -to say, upon her person, except a pair of gold ear-rings. Her dress -was a plain white muslin, so fine in texture, and drawn about her in -such a way, and so tightly, that the outline of her figure was plainly -discernible--and a remarkably fine figure she had. What spoilt her was -her voice, which was something between a whine and a croak. When the -purdah was drawn aside, she was, or affected to be, very much annoyed; -but presently she laughed, and good-humouredly expressed a hope that -a sight of her had not lessened my sympathy with her sufferings nor -prejudiced her cause. - -"On the contrary," I replied, "if the Governor-General could only be as -fortunate as I have been, and for even so brief a while, I feel quite -sure that he would at once give Jhansi back again to be ruled over by -its beautiful Queen." - -She repaid this compliment, and the next ten minutes were devoted to an -interchange of such matters. I told her that the whole world resounded -with the praises of her beauty and the greatness of her intellect; and -she told me that there was not a corner of the earth in which prayers -for my welfare remained unsaid. - -We then returned to the point--her "case." I informed her that the -Governor-General had no power to restore the country, and recognise -the claim of the adopted son, without a reference to England, and -that the most prudent course for her to adopt would be to petition -the throne, and meanwhile draw the pension of 6000_l._ a year, under -protest that it was not to prejudice the right of the adopted son. At -first she refused to do this, and rather energetically exclaimed: "Mera -Jhansi nahin dengee" (I will not give up my Jhansi). I then pointed out -to her, as delicately as possible, how futile would be any opposition; -and told her, what was the truth, that a wing of a native regiment and -some artillery were within three marches of the palace; and I further -impressed upon her that the slightest opposition to its advance would -destroy her every hope, and, in short, jeopardize her liberty. I did -this because she gave me to understand--and so did her attorney (and my -impression is that they spoke the truth)--that the _people_ of Jhansi -did not wish to be handed over to the East India Company's rule. - -It was past two o'clock that night before I left the palace; and ere -I took my departure, I had talked the lady into my way of thinking, -except that she would not consent to draw any pension from the British -Government. - -On the following day I returned to Gwalior, _en route_ to Agra. The -Ranee presented me with an elephant, a camel, an Arab, a pair of -greyhounds of great swiftness, a quantity of silks and stuffs (the -production of Jhansi), and a pair of Indian shawls. I accepted these -things with great reluctance, but the financial minister entreated me -to take them, insomuch as it would wound the Ranee's feelings if I -refused. The Ranee also presented me with a portrait of herself, taken -by a native, a Hindoo. - -The state of Jhansi was not restored to the rule of the Ranee, and -we know that she afterwards rivalled that fiend Nena Sahib, whose -"grievance" was identical with her own. The Government would not -recognise Nena Sahib as the adopted son and heir of the Peishwah; -the Ranee of Jhansi sought to be recognised as the Regent during the -minority of the late Rajah's adopted son and heir. - - - - -TIRHOOT, LUCKNOW, BHITOOR, ETC. - - -It is some years since I first landed in Calcutta. I was in no way -connected with the Government, and was consequently an "interloper" -or "adventurer." These were the terms applied by certain officials to -European merchants, indigo-planters, shopkeepers, artisans, barristers, -attorneys, and others. - -It was not long before I made up my mind to become a wanderer in the -East. I had no occupation, was my own master, and had a large tract of -country to roam about in. My first step was to acquire a knowledge of -Hindostanee and of Persian. By dint of hard study, at the end of six -months I found myself capable, not only of holding a conversation, but -of arguing a point in either of these languages: and with a light heart -I took my departure from the City of Palaces, and proceeded to Monghyr, -on the Ganges. - -The chief civilian of that district had invited me to spend a month -with him. Every day I accompanied my friend to his court, and thereby -got some insight into the administration of justice in India, both -civil and criminal. Here, too, I first made acquaintance with Thugs. -Several most notorious characters of that tribe were at Monghyr--not -imprisoned, but permitted to move about. They had been pardoned on -condition that they would become informers, and, to a certain extent, -detectives, in the suppression of Thuggee in the British dominions. -It was a curious feeling to be in conversation with men who had each -committed his ninety or a hundred murders--to see the fingers that -had strangled so many victims--to watch the process, for they were -good-natured enough to act it. There was the unsuspecting traveller -with his bundle; the decoy Thug, who engaged him in conversation; the -two men, who, at the given signal, were to seize; the executioner, -standing behind with the handkerchief, ready to strangle the victim. -They even went through the operation of searching the "deceased," -upon whom they found nothing in this case; but they assured me this -frequently happened in reality. The reader is of course aware that it -is a part of the Thug's religion not to rob a live body. The crime of -murder must precede that of theft. The play--the tragedy--over (to -these domesticated demons it was a mere farce), they laughed at the -solemn expression which, I doubt not, was stamped upon my features. - -These Thugs were permitted to have their families at Monghyr; and -one morning when I strolled down to their camp, an old man made five -children, the eldest boy not more than eight years old, go through -the business of strangling and robbing a victim. In one respect these -urchins outdid their progenitors in the acting. They not only went -through the ceremony of searching the dead body, but, that done, they -dragged it by the legs to a well, and, in dumb show, threw it down, and -then uttered a prayer to Heaven. - -"Was that good?" said one of the children, running up to me for -applause and a reward. I scarcely knew what to reply. Before I had time -to give any answer, the child's father said, "No; it was not good. -You used the handkerchief before the signal was given. Go through it -again, and remember, this time, that you must have patience." The boys -began again, much in the same spirit that an actor and actress would -go through the strangling scene in "Othello," to please a fastidious -manager. - -Approaching a very interesting-looking woman, of about two-and-twenty -years of age, I said to her, "What do you think of this?" - -She replied in a proverb: "The mango always falls beneath the shade of -the parent tree." - -"But the crime?" said I. "What think you of that?" - -She looked up with as lovely a pair of eyes as ever saw the light, -smiled, and responded: - -"Heaven will hold us all, Sahib!" - -I was about to reason with her, but her husband, with an expression of -pride, interfered, and informed me that she had taken eighteen lives. - -"Twenty-one!" she exclaimed. - -"Eighteen only!" said he. - -"Twenty-one!" she persisted, and ran them over counting on her fingers -the places and the dates when the murders were committed. Her husband -then admitted that she was in the right, and, turning to me, remarked: - -"She is a very clever woman, Sahib." - -"Were your victims men or women?" I said to her. - -"All women," she answered me. "Some old and some young." - -I was tempted to ask her to show me how it was done; and after -considerable coaxing she complied with my wishes. To my surprise -she was the only actor in the scene, except the victim, with whom -she went through the process of strangling with a piece of cord. -The victim, another Thuggess, was supposed to be sleeping when the -operation was performed, and I could not help admiring--horrible as -the sight was--the accuracy with which she performed the throes and -agony of death. To borrow an idea from Junius, "None but those who had -frequently witnessed such awful moments could describe them so well." - -At the house of my Monghyr friend I met a French gentleman, an -indigo-planter of Tirhoot, in Behar. He invited me to pay him a visit, -and to accompany him in his boat. He was about to sail on the following -day. I say "sail," for at that time (the month of August), the country -was inundated, and it would have been impossible to travel by land. -I accepted the invitation, and we sailed from Monghyr to Hajeepore -without going near the Ganges for several days. - -Monsieur Bardon, the French planter, was one of the most accomplished -and agreeable men I had ever met, and in truth one of the greatest -characters. The hospitality of the Tirhoot planters is proverbial in -India, and I believe I might have lived in that Garden of the East, as -it is called, from that day to this, as a welcome guest of the various -planters, if I had chosen still to be their guest. As it was, I was -eight months in the district, and then had very great difficulty in -getting away. A now celebrated officer, at that time commanding the -Irregular Cavalry at Segowlie, induced me to visit him; and after -leaving his abode, I went to the Bettiah Rajah, who initiated me into -the mysteries of tiger-shooting. It was in the dominions of this small -chief that my hands and face were so browned that I became far less -fair than many natives of the country. Before leaving Tirhoot, however, -I paid a visit to Rooder Singh, the Rajah of Durbungah, the richest -native perhaps in all India. He has two hundred thousand pounds a year -net revenue; and in a tank in his palace there is lying, in gold and -silver, upwards of a million and a half sterling. Chutter Singh, the -father of the Rajah of Durbungah, was a firm friend of the British -Government during the Nepal war. He raised a regiment of horse and -provisioned it. When asked by the authorities for his bill, he replied -that the Government owed him nothing. - -After leaving the Bettiah Rajah, I proceeded to Lucknow, where I -improved myself greatly in Hindostanee. In this city, and in Delhi, -the purest is spoken. At Lucknow I made the acquaintance of Ally Nucky -Khan (the prime minister of the King of Oude, who is now imprisoned in -Fort William), of Wuzy Ally Khan (a celebrity of Oude, who is since -dead), and of Rugburdiall, the eldest son of the late Shah Beharee -Lall, one of the richest bankers in India. Shah Beharee Lall is said to -have died worth seven millions in cash; but I have reason to believe -that three millions sterling was the utmost that he died possessed of. -Rugburdiall held the office of treasurer to the King of Oude. Ally -Nucky Khan gave me the idea of a man of small mental capacity, but of -immense cunning and inordinate vanity. The late Mr. Beechy, the King of -Oude's portrait-painter, must have taken at least a score of likenesses -of Ally Nucky, who, to say the truth, is a remarkably good-looking -personage. Wuzy Ally Khan was a tall and handsome man of about -five-and-forty. His manners were refined, his address charming, and his -bearing altogether that of a well-bred gentleman. Of his talents there -could be no question; and he was, moreover, a learned and well-informed -man. There could be no doubt that Wuzy Ally Khan, in point of fact, -ruled the kingdom. The conversational powers of this man were immense, -and he was both witty and humorous. A more agreeable companion it -would be difficult to meet with in any country. When I first made his -acquaintance, he was in great favour with the then resident at the -court of Oude; but, on the appointment of Colonel Sleeman, he fell -into disrepute with the British officials and continued so up to the -time of his death, which occurred about two years ago. I was five -months in Oude, and, during that period, spoke nothing but Hindostanee -or Persian. I made a point of avoiding my own countrymen, and of -associating only with the natives of India. - -Previous to leaving Lucknow, a letter was despatched to Nena Sahib, -informing him that a gentleman of distinction, a most intimate friend -of the Governor-General, and related by birth or marriage to every -member of the council in Calcutta, as well as a constant guest of the -Queen of England, was travelling through Hindostan in disguise, and -would most probably, by his presence, illumine the abode of Maharajah -Bahadoor, and it was hoped that every respect would be paid to the -dignity of the Sahib's exalted position, &c., &c. When the draft of -this epistle was read aloud by the moonshee, who had written it from -dictation, I expostulated, on the ground that the contents were not -in accordance with the truth. My scruples, however, were eventually -overcome, and I took leave of my Lucknow friends, after being provided -with all that I should require on my journey (of about forty-five -miles), and an escort of fifteen sowars (horsemen); for the road, at -that time, between Lucknow and Cawnpore, was infested by robbers. About -a mile from Bhitoor my palkee was placed upon the ground. I was asleep, -but awoke, and inquired, "Kia hua?" (What is the matter?) - -I was informed by the bearers of my palkee that the Maharajah Peishwa -Bahadoor had sent out an escort in honour of my approach, and presently -there appeared at the door of my palkee a soldier-like looking Hindoo, -who made me a very respectful salaam. The escort consisted of eight -foot-soldiers with drawn swords, and four sowars. The former, running -by the side of my palkee, encouraged the bearers to make haste; while -the latter caused their horses to curvet and prance, and thus kick up -a frightful dust. At the abode of the Maharajah Bahadoor, I was met by -several of his musahibs (courtiers), who were exceedingly polite, and -conducted me to a suite of apartments which had apparently been made -ready for my reception; and so far as servants were concerned, I was -literally surrounded. A sirdar bearer (personal attendant, or Indian -valet) took charge of my two boxes which contained my wearing apparel. -A khansamah (butler), followed by three khidmutghars (table servants), -asked me if I would take some iced water, and in the same breath -informed me that every kind of European drink was at hand. Brandy, gin, -champagne, claret, sherry, port, beer, cherry-brandy, and soda-water. -And what would I take for dinner? Whatever the Sahib's heart might -desire, was in readiness. Turkey? goose? duck? fowl? beefsteak? -mutton-chop? ham and eggs? And here the khansamah (a venerable -Mussulman) informed me, sotto voce, that the Maharajah was constantly -in the habit of entertaining European gentlemen; and that, although -his highness was himself a strict Hindoo, he had no kind of prejudice, -so that if I preferred beef to any other kind of meat, I had only to -give the order. I assured the khansamah that since my arrival in India, -I had never tasted beef, or hog's flesh, and that if he would have -prepared for me, as speedily as possible, some rice and vegetables, I -should be quite satisfied. With a profound salaam the khansamah took -his departure, followed by the khidmutghars. The sirdar bearers, and -four other men, then approached me reverentially, and begged to conduct -me to my sleeping apartment and the bathing-rooms. - -There is something peculiarly quaint about the arrangement of European -furniture in the house of a native gentleman. In the house of an -European, the servants are, of course, taught how to arrange tables, -chairs, and beds, according to European ideas; but it is otherwise with -the servants of a rajah, or native gentleman. The consequence is that -in the dining, or drawing-room, you will find a wash-hand stand, and a -chest of drawers, and a toilet-table, while in the bed-room you will, -perhaps, discover an old piano, an organ, a card-table, or cheffonier. -The furniture has, for the most part, been purchased at various sales, -and has belonged to officers of all grades, civil and military. There -are the tent-table and the camp-stool of the dead ensign, in the same -room with the marble-topped table and crimson damask covered easy chair -of some luxurious judge. On the mantelpiece you will find a costly -clock of the most elegant design and workmanship, and on each side -of it, a pair of japan candlesticks, not worth half-a-crown. In this -way are arranged the pictures on the walls. Immediately underneath -a proof print of Landseer's "Bolton Abbey," or "Hawking," you will -observe a sixpenny coloured print of the Duke of Wellington or Napoleon -Bonaparte. The pictures, also, have been bought indiscriminately -at various sales, and have been as indiscriminately suspended on -the walls. There are the print-shop ballet girls intermingled with -engravings of the most serious character. Fores's sporting collection -with the most classical subjects. Foot-stools, musical-boxes, and -elegantly bound books, writing-desks, work-boxes, plated dishes, -sugar-basins, and teapots, are arranged in the most grotesque fashion -imaginable. Upon an elegant mahogany sideboard you will find decanters -and glasses of every description and quality. Upon another sideboard, -in the drawing-room, you will find a variety of dinner-services, and -earthen fragments thereof, all mixed. There was but one set of rooms -at Bhitoor for the reception of "Sahib logue," and this was the set -that I then occupied. - -I had scarcely made myself comfortable, when the khansamah informed me -that dinner was on the table. This was welcome intelligence, for I had -not tasted food since morning, and it was half-past five P.M. I sat -down to a table twenty feet long (it had originally been the mess table -of a cavalry regiment), which was covered with a damask table-cloth -of European manufacture, but instead of a dinner-napkin there was a -bed-room towel. The soup--for he had everything ready--was served up -in a trifle-dish which had formed part of a dessert service belonging -to the 9th Lancers--at all events, the arms of that regiment were upon -it; but the plate into which I ladled it with a broken tea-cup, was of -the old willow pattern. The pilao which followed the soup, was served -upon a huge plated dish, but the plate from which I ate it, was of the -very commonest description. The knife was a bone-handled affair; the -spoon and the fork were of silver, and of Calcutta make. The plated -side-dishes, containing vegetables, were odd ones; one was round, the -other oval. The pudding was brought in upon a soup-plate of blue and -gold pattern, and the cheese was placed before me on a glass dish -belonging to a dessert service. The cool claret I drank out of a richly -cut champagne glass, and the beer out of an American tumbler, of the -very worst quality. - -I had not yet seen "the Maharajah." It was not until past eight that -a moonshee came and inquired if I would have an interview with his -highness. I replied that it would give me great joy, and was forthwith -conducted through numerous narrow and gloomy passages to an apartment -at the corner of the building. Here sat the Maharajah on a Turkey -carpet, and reclining slightly on a huge bolster. In front of him were -his hookah, a sword, and several nosegays. His highness rose, came -forward, took my hand, led me to the carpet, and begged of me to be -seated on a cane-bottomed arm-chair, which had evidently been placed -ready for my especial ease and occupation. After the usual compliments -had passed, the Maharajah inquired if I had eaten well. But, perhaps, -the general reader would like to know what are "the usual compliments." - -Native Rajah. "The whole world is ringing with the praise of your -illustrious name." - -Humble Sahib. "Maharaj. You are very good." - -Native Rajah. "From Calcutta to Cabul--throughout the whole of -Hindoostan--every tongue declares that you have no equal. Is it true?" - -Humble Sahib (who, if he knows anything of Asiatic manners and customs, -knows that he must not contradict his host, but eat his compliments -with a good appetite). "Maharaj." - -Native Rajah. "The acuteness of your perceptions, and the soundness of -your understanding, have, by universal report, became as manifest as -even the light of the sun itself." Then, turning to his attendants of -every degree, who, by this time, had formed a circle round me and the -Rajah, he put the question, "Is it true, or not?" - -The attendants, one and all, declare that it was true; and inquire -whether it could be possible for a great man like the Maharajah to say -that which was false. - -Native Rajah. "The Sahib's father is living?" - -Humble Sahib. "No; he is dead, Maharaj." - -Native Rajah. "He was a great man?" - -Humble Sahib. "Maharaj. You have honoured the memory of my father, and -exalted it in my esteem, by expressing such an opinion." - -Native Rajah. "And your mother? She lives?" - -Humble Sahib. "By the goodness of God, such is the case." - -Native Rajah. "She is a very handsome woman?" - -Humble Sahib. "On that point, Maharaj, I cannot offer an opinion." - -Native Rajah. "You need not do so. To look in your face is quite -sufficient. I would give a crore of rupees (one million sterling) to -see her only for one moment, and say how much I admired the intelligent -countenance of her son. I am going to England next year. Will the Sahib -favour me with her address?" - -Humble Sahib. "Maharaj." - -Here the Native Rajah calls to the moonshee to bring pen, ink, -and paper. The moonshee comes, sits before me, pen in hand, looks -inquiringly into my eyes, and I dictate as follows, laughing inwardly -all the while: "Lady Bombazine, Munnymunt, ka uper, Peccadilleemee, -Bilgrave Isqueere, Sunjons wood-Cumberwill;" which signifies this: -"Lady Bombazine, on the top of the Monument, in Piccadilly, Belgrave -Square, St. Johns Wood, Camberwell." This mystification must be excused -by the plea that the Rajah's assertions of his going to Europe are as -truthful as Lady Bombazine's address. - -The Maharajah then gives instructions that that document shall -be preserved amongst his most important papers, and resumes the -conversation. - -Native Rajah. "The Sahib has eaten well?" - -Humble Sahib. "Maharaj." - -Native Rajah. "And drunk?" - -Humble Sahib. "Maharaj." - -Native Rajah. "The Sahib will smoke hookah?" - -Humble Sahib. "The Maharajah is very good." - -A hookah is called for by the Rajah; and then at least a dozen voices -repeat the order: "Hookah lao, Sahib ke waste." (Bring a hookah for -the Sahib.) Presently the hookah is brought in. It is rather a grand -affair, but old, and has evidently belonged to some European of -extravagant habits. Of course, no native would smoke out of it (on the -ground of caste), and it is evidently kept for the use of the Sahib -logue.[1] - -While I am pulling away at the hookah, the musahibs, or favourites of -the Rajah, flatter me, in very audible whispers. "How well he smokes!" -"What a fine forehead he has!" "And his eyes! how they sparkle!" "No -wonder he is so clever!" "He will be Governor-General some day." -"Khuda-kuren!" (God will have it so.) - -Native Rajah. "Sahib, when you become Governor-General, you will be a -friend to the poor?" - -Humble Sahib (speaking from the bottom of his heart). "Most assuredly, -Maharaj." - -Native Rajah. "And you will listen to the petition of every man, rich -and poor alike." - -Humble Sahib. "It will be my duty so to do." - -Native Rajah (in a loud voice). "Moonshee!" - -Moonshee (who is close at hand). "Maharaj, Protector of the Poor." - -Native Rajah. "Bring the petition that I have laid before the -Governor-General." - -The moonshee produces the petition, and at the instance of the Rajah, -reads, or rather sings it aloud. The Rajah listens with pleasure to -its recital of his own wrongs, and I affect to be astounded that so -much injustice can possibly exist. During my rambles in India I have -been the guest of some scores of rajahs, great and small, and I never -knew one who had not a grievance. He had either been wronged by the -government, or by some judge, whose decision had been against him. In -the matter of the government, it was a sheer love of oppression that -led to the evil of which he complained; in the matter of the judge, -that functionary had been bribed by the other party. - -It was with great difficulty that I kept my eyes open while the -petition--a very long one--was read aloud. Shortly after it was -finished, I craved permission to retire, and was conducted by a bearer -to the sleeping-room, in the centre of which was a huge bedstead, -a four-poster, but devoid of curtains. On either side were large -looking-glasses in gilt frames, not suspended on the walls, but placed -against them. Over the bed was a punkah, which was immediately set -in motion. The movement of the punkah served a double purpose; it -cooled the room, and drove away the musquitoes. Having thrown myself -on the bed, the bearer, who was in attendance, inquired if I would be -shampooed. This was a luxury to which I was always partial, and, having -signified that I desired it, four men were shouted for. Each took an -arm or a leg, and began to press it, and crack the knuckle-joints of my -fingers and toes. This continued until I had fallen asleep. I did not -wake until eight o'clock on the following morning, when I was waited -upon by the khansamah, who wished to know my pleasure with respect to -breakfast. He informed me that he had "Futnum and Meesum's," Yorkshire -pie, game pie, anchovy toast, mutton-chop, steak, sardines--in short, -all that the Sahib logue were accustomed to take. - -My breakfast over, and my hookah smoked, I lighted a cheroot, and -walked out into a verandah, where I was soon joined by some of the -Maharajah's favourites and dependents, who poured into my ear a -repetition of the flattery to which I had listened on the previous -night. It is not very tedious when you become used to it, and know -that it is a matter of course, and is applied to every European guest -of any real or supposed importance. Whilst thus engaged, smoking and -listening, I was joined by the Maharajah, who held in his hand the -Delhi Gazette, the Mofussilite, and the Calcutta Englishman. Of their -entire contents he had been made acquainted by a half-caste, whom he -kept (so he informed me) for the sole purpose of translating, orally, -into Hindostanee, the Indian journals and the government gazettes, -published in the English language. There was no occasion for me to -read these papers, for the Maharajah gave me a very accurate resumé of -them; having done this, he asked me to play a game of billiards. I am -not a bad billiard-player; on the contrary, I have the vanity to think -that I play remarkably well; but it was quite evident to me that the -Maharajah did not play his best, and that he suffered me to beat him as -easily as I did, simply out of what he considered to be politeness. All -the while we were playing the favourites or courtiers of the Maharajah -were praising us both. Neither of us made a stroke, good or bad, that -did not bring down a shower of compliments. My impression is, that if I -had run a cue, and cut the cloth at the same time, the bystanders would -have shouted in praise of my skill and execution. I had already seen -enough of native character to know exactly how I was to act. I feigned -to be charmed with my success--childishly charmed. Whilst I was thus -(to the delight of my host) ostensibly revelling in my triumph, the -marker--a native, a Hindoo--took up a cue, and began to knock the balls -about. He cannoned all over the table, went in off the red and white, -screwed back under the cushion, and, in short, did whatever he pleased, -and with perfect ease. - -I could not help expressing to the Rajah my astonishment at the Hindoo -marker's skill; whereupon, he informed me that, when he was a mere boy, -he had been taught by the best player (an officer in the Light Cavalry) -that ever came to India, and that for several years past he had been -marker at various mess-rooms where billiards were played. The name of -this Hindoo Jonathan was Runjeet. He was six-and-twenty years of age, -about five feet five in height, remarkably slim, had a very handsome -face, and eyes full of fire and spirit. He was for a long time marker -to the Horse Artillery mess at Meerut, where I once saw him play a game -with an officer celebrated for his skill. Runjeet gave his adversary -sixty points out of a hundred, and won easily. What with his pay, or -salary, the presents he received from gentlemen to whom he taught the -game, and the gold mohurs that he occasionally had given to him when he -won bets for his backers, Runjeet was in possession of some six hundred -pounds a-year; but he was so extravagant in his habits, that he spent -every anna, and died, I was told, "not worth money enough to buy the -wood to burn him." - -The Maharajah, on leaving the billiard-room, invited me to accompany -him to Cawnpore. I acquiesced, and the carriage was ordered. The -carriage was English-built--a very handsome landau--and the horses -were English horses; but the harness! It was country-made, of the -very commonest kind, and worn out, for one of the traces was a piece -of rope. The coachman was filthy in his dress, and the whip that he -carried in his hand was an old broken buggy-whip, which some European -gentleman must have thrown away. On the box, on either side of the -coachman, sat a warlike retainer, armed with a sword and a dagger. In -the rumble were two other retainers, armed in the same manner. Besides -the Rajah and myself there were three others (natives and relatives of -the Rajah) in the vehicle. On the road the Rajah talked incessantly, -and amongst other things that he told me was this, in reference to the -praises that I bestowed on his equipage. - -"Not long ago I had a carriage and horses very superior to these. They -cost me twenty-five thousand rupees; but I had to burn the carriage and -kill the horses." - -"Why so?" - -"The child of a certain Sahib in Cawnpore was very sick, and the Sahib -and the mem-Sahib were bringing the child to Bhitoor for a change of -air. I sent my big carriage for them. On the road the child died; and, -of course, as a dead body had been in the carriage, and as the horses -had drawn that dead body in that carriage, I could never use them -again." The reader must understand that a native of any rank considers -it a disgrace to sell property. - -"But could you not have given the horses to some friend--a Christian or -a Mussulman?" - -"No; had I done so, it might have come to the knowledge of the Sahib, -and his feelings would have been hurt at having occasioned me such a -loss." - -Such was the Maharajah, commonly known as Nena Sahib. He appeared to -me not a man of ability, nor a fool. He was selfish; but what native -is not? He seemed to be far from a bigot in matters of religion; -and, although he was compelled to be so very particular about the -destruction of his carriage and horses, I am quite satisfied that he -drank brandy, and that he smoked hemp in the chillum of his hookah. - -It was half-past five o'clock when we arrived at Cawnpore. The -officers, civil and military, and their wives, were just coming out -for their evening drive on the mall. Some were in carriages, some in -buggies, some on horseback. Every soul saluted the Maharajah; who -returned the salute according to Eastern fashion--raising the hands -to the forehead. Several gentlemen approached the carriage when it -was drawn up near the band-stand, and inquired after the Maharajah's -health. He replied that it was good and then introduced me to them -in the following manner, and in strict accordance with the letter he -had received from Lucknow: "This Sahib who sits near me is a great -friend of the Governor-General, and is a relation of all the members -of Council--a constant guest of the Queen of England" (then came -this addition of his own) "and of both Houses of Parliament." I need -scarcely say that I wished my Lucknow friends had not covered me with -such recommendations; for, wherever we went, and to whomsoever we -spoke--no matter whether it was an European shopkeeper or an official -magnate of Cawnpore--I was doomed to hear, "This Sahib who sits (or -stands) near me is a great friend," &c., &c. Having exhibited me -sufficiently in Cawnpore, the heads of the horses were turned towards -Bhitoor, and we were dragged along the road at a slow pace, for the -animals were extremely fatigued. The natives of India have no mercy -on their cattle, especially their horses. During the ride back, I was -again bored with the Rajah's grievance; and, to quiet him--for he -became very much excited--I was induced to promise that I would talk -to the Governor-General and the Council on the subject; and that if -I did not succeed in that quarter, I would, on my return to England, -take the earliest opportunity "some day, quietly, after dinner" (this -was his suggestion), of representing to her Majesty the exact state -of the case, and that an adopted son of a Hindoo was entitled to all -the rights and privileges of an heir born of the body. I furthermore -promised him most solemnly that I would not speak to the Board of -Control, or to the Privy Council on the subject; for the Maharajah -assured me that he had the most positive proof that both these -institutions had eaten bribes from the hand of the East India Company -in respect of his claim. On probing him, however, I discovered that -this positive proof was a letter from a villanous agent in England, -who had written to him to say that "the Company had bribed the Board -of Control and the Privy Council, and that if his Highness expected to -succeed, he must bribe over the head of the Company. Three lacs (thirty -thousand pounds) would do it all." - -The Maharajah gave a nautch (native dance by women) that night. - -On the following morning I awoke with a very bad headache, and in a -philosophic mood. The various perfumes which had been sprinkled over -my dress had somewhat overpowered me, and it may have been that the -story told me in whispers by one of the three slaves who came to sing -me to sleep had disordered my imagination. I was told that two women of -rank were kept in a den not far from my apartments, and treated like -wild beasts; and a third--a beautiful young creature--had recently been -"bricked up in a wall," for no other fault than attempting to escape. - -After breakfast, the Rajah showed me his elephants, his camels, his -horses, his dogs, his pigeons, his falcons, his wild asses, his apes, -his aviary full of birds, and all the rest of his curiosities. Then he -exhibited his guns and pistols--by Purdey, Egg, and other celebrated -makers--his swords, and his daggers, of every country and age, and when -he had observed that he was very happy, under the influence of some -stimulant recently imbibed, I took an opportunity of discoursing on the -vanity of human wishes, and especially with reference to his Highness's -grievance. I translated many sentiments of Juvenal and Horace into -Hindoostanee; but, I regret to say, they had no effect on Nena Sahib. - - -FOOTNOTE: - -[1] The word "logue" simply signifies people; but, when applied as -above, it is nothing more than a plural. "Sahib logue" (sahibs) "mem -logue" (ladies), "baba logue" (children). - - - - -THE UPPER PROVINCES. - - -It is impossible for an English gentleman to take his departure from -the house of a native of India without giving a number of testimonials, -in the shape of "letters of recommendation" addressed to no one in -particular. Nena Sahib had a book containing the autographs of at -least a hundred and fifty gentlemen and ladies, who had testified in -writing to the attention and kindness they had received at the hands -of the Maharajah during their stay at Bhitoor. Having expressed my -satisfaction as emphatically as possible in this book, the khansamah -(house steward) demanded a certificate, which I gave him. Then came -the bearer, the men who guarded my door, the coachman, the grooms, -the sweeper. For each and all of these I had to write characters, -and recommend them to such of my friends as they might encounter by -accident or otherwise. It is a fearful infliction, this character -writing; but every one is compelled to go through it. - -I was now on my road to Agra, to pay a visit to a schoolfellow, who was -then in the civil service, and filling an appointment in the station. -It was in the month of September that I made the journey--the most -unhealthy season of the year. Opposite to the first dâk bungalow, some -twelve miles from the station of Cawnpore, I was stopped by a set of -twelve palkee bearers, who informed me that a Sahib whom they were -taking to Allyghur had been seized with cholera, and was dying in the -bungalow. I hastened to the room and there found, stretched upon the -couch, a young officer of about nineteen years of age. - -His face was ashy pale, and a profuse cold perspiration stood upon his -forehead. His hands and feet were like ice, and he was in very great -pain. The only person near him was the sweeper, who kept on assuring -me that the youth would die. As for the youth himself he was past -speech, and I was disposed to think with the sweeper, that he was -beyond cure. I administered, however, nearly a teaspoonful of laudanum -in a wine-glass half-full of raw brandy, and then took a seat near -the patient, in order to witness the effect. Ere long the severe pain -was allayed, and the youth fell into a profound sleep, from which, I -began to fear, he would never awake. To have administered a smaller -dose at that stage of the disease would have been useless, for the -body was on the very verge of collapse. Nevertheless, I began to feel -the awkwardness of the responsibility which I had taken upon myself. -Presently a palanquin carriage, propelled by bearers, came to the -bungalow. An elderly lady and gentleman alighted, and were shown into -a little room which happened to be vacant [A dâk bungalow has only two -little rooms.] To my great joy I discovered that the new arrival was a -doctor of a regiment, who, with his wife, was journeying to Calcutta. I -was not long in "calling in" the doctor; and I had the satisfaction of -hearing him pronounce an opinion that the young ensign was "all right," -and that the dose I had administered had been the means of saving his -life. How readily, to be sure, do people in India accommodate each -other. Although the doctor and his wife were hurrying down the country, -and albeit the youth was pronounced out of danger, they remained with -me until the following afternoon; when, having dined, we all took our -departure together--the youth and I travelling northward, the doctor -and his wife in the opposite direction. - -The night was pitchy dark; but the glare from the torches rendered -every object near to us distinctly visible. The light, shining -on the black faces of the palkee bearers, they appeared like so -many demons--but very merry demons; for they chatted and laughed -incessantly, until I commanded them to be silent, in order that, while -we moved along the road, I might listen to the ensign's story, which he -told me in the most artless manner imaginable. - -"I have only been six weeks in India," he began, "and at present only -know a few words of the language. How I came into the Bengal army -was this. My father was in the civil service of the Company, in the -Madras Presidency; and, after twenty-one years' service, retired on his -pension of one thousand pounds a year, and his savings, which amounted -to twenty thousand pounds, and which were invested in five per cent. -government securities, so that his income was two thousand a year. -We lived during the winter near Grosvenor-square: a house of which -my father bought the lease for twenty years, and the summer we used -to spend at a little place in Berkshire which he had bought. It was -only a good sized cottage, and the land about it did not exceed three -acres. But it was a perfect gem of a residence, and quite large enough -for our family, which consisted of my father and mother, myself, and a -sister who is a year and a half older than I am. I was at Harrow. My -father intended that I should go to Oxford, and eventually be called -to the bar. My sister had a governess, a very clever and accomplished -girl, and the most amiable creature that ever lived. We were not an -extravagant family, and saw very little company; but we had every -comfort that a reasonable heart could desire, and I fancy that we lived -up to the two thousand pounds a year. You see the education of myself -and my sister was a heavy item. The governess had a hundred pounds a -year, and then there was a singing-master and a drawing master. About -two years ago my father died, and my mother became almost imbecile from -the excess of her grief. She lost her memory; and, for days together, -knew not what she was doing. Under my father's will she was entitled -to all that he died possessed of, and was appointed his sole executrix. -The house in South-street was given up, the unexpired portion of the -lease disposed of, and the little place in Berkshire became our only -home. My father's pension of course expired when he died, and we, the -family, had now to live on the interest of the government securities. -My mother, who was as ignorant as a child on all matters of business, -was recommended to sell her government securities, and invest the -proceeds in a joint-stock bank which was paying, and for more than a -year did pay, eight per cent. But, alas, one wretched day the bank -failed, and we were reduced suddenly from comparative affluence to -poverty. The cottage, furniture, and all that my mother possessed, was -seized, and sold. This happened only two years ago. Fortunately for -me, my school education was pretty well completed; but of course the -idea of my going to Oxford, and subsequently to the bar, was at once -abandoned. My sister was obliged to take a situation as governess, in -the family of a director of the East India Company: and through that -gentleman's influence I obtained an ensigncy in the Native Infantry. -The loss of her fortune, the parting with my sister (who is now on -the Continent with the director's family) and myself, had such an -effect upon my mother, that it was deemed necessary to place her in an -asylum; where at all events she will be taken care of and treated with -kindness. But I have my plans!" exclaimed the young man, who had just -escaped the jaws of death. "In ten years I will save enough to take me -home to them; for, if I study hard--and I will do so--I may get a staff -appointment, and----" - -Here the bearers of my palkee informed me that two other travellers -were coming down the road. They saw the light in the distance, more -than a mile off, and they--the bearers--began to talk loudly and argue, -that it was impossible for me to hear what the ensign was saying, -and all attempts to silence them were vain. They were discussing, -as they carried us along, whether they would exchange burdens with -the down-coming bearers, insomuch as they were nearly midway between -the stages. This is very often done by arrangement between them, and -thus, in such cases, they get back more speedily to their homes. It -was decided that the exchange should take place, if the other party -were agreeable; for, on the down-coming travellers nearing us, the -bearers of us--the up-going travellers--called a halt. Forthwith the -four palkees were gently lowered till they rested on the ground. And -now the chattering of the bearers became something awful. A native -of Hindostan can settle nothing without a noise; and, as each palkee -had twelve men attached to it besides the torch-bearers and those who -carried our boxes, the number of voices, whooping, shouting, asserting, -contradicting, scolding, and soothing, exceeded sixty. I and my -companion, the ensign, shout to them to "go on!" At length I got out of -my palkee in a rage, and not only screamed at, but shook several of the -black disputants. Whilst thus engaged, the doors of one of the downward -palkees were opened, and a voice--that of a lady--thus greeted me, very -good humouredly. - -"My good sir, depend upon it that you are retarding your own progress, -and ours, by attempting, so violently, to accelerate it. Pray let them -settle their little affair amongst themselves." - -"I believe you are quite right," I replied. - -"Have you any idea of the hour?" she asked. - -"Yes. It is about a quarter to twelve," said I. - -"I have lost the key of my watch; perhaps the key of yours would fit -it." - -I hastened to my palkee, brought forth from beneath the pillow my watch -and chain; and, taking them to the door of the lady's palkee, presented -them through the opening. - -"Thanks," said the lady, after winding up her watch, "thanks. It does -very well," and she returned the watch and chain. I saw, by the light -of the torch, not only her hand--which was very small and pretty--but -her face, which was more bewitching still, being lovely and young. - -"Is there anything else you require?" I asked. - -"Nothing. Unless you happen to have with you some fresh bread. My -children, who are asleep in the other palkee, are tired of biscuits, -and I imagine we shall not reach Cawnpore before mid-day to-morrow." - -It happened that I had a loaf in my palkee, and, with all the pleasure -of which the heart of man is capable, placed it in the hands of the -fair traveller. On this occasion she opened the doors of her palkee -sufficiently wide to admit of my having a really good gaze at her -beautiful features. She was enveloped in a white dressing-gown, and -wore a hood made of black silk, and lined with pink. Her hair was -brushed back off the forehead; but the long dark tresses came from -behind the ears, and rested on her covered shoulders. - -"Are you going to Agra?" she inquired. - -"Yes," I replied. - -"Perhaps you would be good enough to return two books for me to the -wife of the assistant magistrate. They will, no doubt, afford you as -much amusement on your journey as they have afforded me. I finished -them this afternoon, and they are now an encumbrance." With these words -she handed me the volumes, which I faithfully promised to return. By -this time the bearers had settled their affair, and were ready to -lift the palkees. I bade the fair traveller "good night, and a safe -journey." We shook hands. - -The reader may ask, "Who was your friend?" I did not know at the time. -It was not until I had arrived at Agra that I was informed on this -head. The books which she entrusted to my care I had not read; and, -after parting with the ensign at the dâk bungalow at Bewah, they were, -indeed, most agreeable companions. I have mentioned this little episode -in my journey, not because there is anything in it worth recording, or -because there is anything romantic therewith connected; but simply to -show how readily we (Christians) in India obliged one another, albeit -utter strangers, and how gladly we assist each other, whenever and -wherever we meet. Such an episode in the journey of a traveller in -India is one of its most commonplace incidents. - -Since the news of the recent deplorable disasters has reached this -country, many persons have expressed their surprise that a lady should -be suffered to travel alone with her children, or be accompanied by no -more than one female servant. The fact is, or rather was, that, on any -dangerous road, a lady utterly unprotected was safer than a gentleman. -The sex was actually its own protection. During my stay in India, I -knew of at least a score of instances in which officers and civilians -were stopped upon the roads, plundered, assaulted, and in one or two -cases murdered, in the Upper Provinces; but I can only bring to mind -two instances of European ladies having been molested. This is not -to be attributed to any ideas of gallantry or chivalry on the part -of marauders in the East; but simply to the fact that they knew the -perpetrators of an offence committed against a lady would be hunted -down to the death, while the sympathies entertained for the sufferings -of a Sahib would be only those of an ordinary character, and soon -"blow over." Even the palkee-bearers knew the amount of responsibility -that attached to them, when they bore away, from station to station, a -female burden; and, had the lady traveller been annoyed or interrupted -by an European traveller, they would have attacked and beaten him, even -to the breaking of his bones and the danger of his life, had he not -desisted when commanded by the lady to do so. This has happened more -than once in the Upper Provinces of India. - -In December, eighteen hundred and forty-nine, the road between -Saharumpore and Umballah was infested by a gang of thieves. Several -officers had been stopped, robbed, and plundered of their money and -valuables. I had been invited to Lahore, to witness the installation -of Sir Walter Gilbert and Sir Henry Elliot as Knights Commanders of -the Bath. The danger, near a place called Juggadree, was pointed out -to me by a mail contractor, who, finding me determined to proceed, -recommended me to dress as a lady for a couple of stages. I did so. I -borrowed a gown, a shawl, and a nightcap; and, when I came near the -dangerous locality, I put them on, and commanded the bearers to say -I was a "mem-Sahib," in the event of the palkee being stopped. Sure -enough, the palkee was stopped, near Juggadree, by a gang of ten or -twelve armed men, one of whom opened the door to satisfy himself of the -truth of the statement made by the bearers. The moment the ruffian -saw my nightcap--a very prettily-frilled one it was, lent to me by a -very pretty woman--likewise a small bolster, which, beneath my shawl, -represented a sleeping baby, he closed the door, and requested the -bearers to take up the palkee, and proceed; ay, and what was more, he -enjoined them to be "careful of the mem-Sahib!" - -I have incidentally spoken of the installation of Sir Walter Gilbert -and Sir Henry Elliot, in December, eighteen hundred and forty-nine. -Eight years have not yet elapsed, and how many of the principal -characters in that magnificent spectacle have departed hence! Sir -Walter is dead; Sir Henry is dead. Sir Charles Napier and Sir Dudley -Hill, who led them up to Lord Dalhousie, are dead. Colonel Mountain, -who carried the cushion on which was placed the insignia of the order -is dead. And Sir Henry Lawrence is dead; and poor Stuart Beatson. Alas! -how many of that gay throng, men and women, husbands, fathers, wives, -and daughters, who had assembled to witness the ceremony, have perished -during the recent revolt in the Upper Provinces of India! Those who -were present on that sixth of December eighteen hundred and forty-nine, -and who, in eighteen hundred and fifty-seven, quietly reflect on what -has occurred since, will scarcely believe in their own existence. It -must appear to them--as it often appears to me--as a dream; a dream -in which we saw Sir Charles Napier, with his spare form, his eagle -eyes, his aquiline nose, and long grey beard, joking Sir Dudley Hill -on his corpulence and baldness, and asking him what sort of figure he -would cut now, in leading a forlorn hope? and Sir Dudley, proudly and -loudly replying, that he felt a better man than ever. Presently, a meek -civilian, in a white neckcloth, and ignorant of Sir Dudley's early -deeds, was so unfortunate as to put the question:-- - -"_Did_ you ever lead a forlorn hope, Sir Dudley?" a query which induced -Sir Dudley Hill to groan, previously to exclaiming-- - -"Such is fame! A forlorn hope, my dear sir! I have led fifty!" - -This was, of course, an exaggeration; but I believe that Sir Dudley -Hill had, in the Peninsular War, led more forlorn hopes than any other -officer in the British army. - -I have wandered away from the high road to Agra, and must return to -it. I parted with the ensign at Bewah, and commenced reading the books -which the then unknown lady had entrusted to my care. The day, towards -noon, became hot, damp, and extremely oppressive; and there was no dâk -bungalow, or other abode, within nine miles of me. Before long, I heard -thunder in the distance, and presently the bearers communicated to me -that a heavy storm was approaching, and that, in order to escape its -fury, they wished to halt at a village just a-head of us. I consented, -and was now hurried along the road at the rate of five miles an hour. -My palkee was placed beneath a shed, and the bearers congregated around -it. One of the number lighted his pipe (hubble-bubble), and passed it -to his neighbour; who, after three whiffs, passed it to the next; who, -after three whiffs, sent it on, until each had partaken of the smoke. - -The little village, which was a short distance from the road, contained -about sixty or seventy inhabitants, and about double that number of -children of various ages. My presence excited no small degree of -curiosity, and the whole of the villagers approached the shed, to have -a look at me. The men and women, of course, were not alarmed, and -looked on simply with that stupidity which is characteristic of the -cultivators of the soil in the Upper Provinces of India. But it was -otherwise with the more youthful, the children. They held aloof, and -peeped from behind their parents, as if I had been some dangerous wild -animal. My bearers wished to drive them all away; but I forbade this, -partly because I had no desire to deprive the villagers of whatever -pleasure a long inspection of me might afford them, and partly because -I wished to sketch the group and listen to their remarks, which were -chiefly of a personal character, and for the most part complimentary, -or intended so to be. - -A vivid flash of lightning, and an awfully loud clap of thunder, -accompanied by a few large drops of rain, speedily dispersed the crowd, -and I was left to myself and my bearers, who now huddled themselves -together for warmth's sake. The air had become chilly, and even I was -compelled to wrap my cloak and my blanket about my thinly-clad limbs. -Another vivid flash of lightning, and another awful clap of thunder; -then down came such hailstones as I had never seen before, and have -never seen since in the plains of Hindostan. In size and weight they -equalled those which sometimes fall in the Himalaya mountains in June -and July. With these storms the rains usually "break up," and then the -cold weather sets in, and with this season of the year, what climate -in the world is superior to that of the Upper Provinces of India? When -the thunder, lightning, and hail had ceased, and their continuance did -not exceed fifteen minutes, the sun came out, and the face of heaven -was as fair as possible, but the earth gave evidence of the severity -of the storm. Not only was the ground covered with leaves and small -branches, intermingled with the hail, but cattle and goats had been -killed by the furious pelting of the huge stones; whilst the electric -fluid had descended on one of the mud huts of the village in which I -had taken refuge, and had stretched out in death an old man and two -of his grandchildren, a boy of six years of age, and a girl of four. -The parents of these children were absent from the village, and were -not expected to return until the evening. On being informed of the -accident, I expressed a desire to see the bodies, and was conducted -by several of the villagers to the hut in which they were lying. I -recognised at once the features of the old man who was a prominent -figure in my sketch, and of one of the children, the little girl -who held the old man so tightly by the hand while she peeped at me. -The face of the boy had not struck me. There they were lying dead, -but still warm, and their limbs, as yet, devoid of rigidity. The -matter-of-fact way in which the natives of India regard the death of -their relations or friends is something wonderful to behold. It is not -that their affections are less strong than ours, or their feelings less -acute. It is that fatality is the beginning and end of their creed. -They are taught from their childhood to regard visitations of this -character as direct and special acts of God--as matters which it is -not only futile, but improper to bewail. None of the villagers--men, -women, or children, exhibited any token of grief while gazing on the -lifeless bodies they surrounded. And, on asking my bearers whether the -parents of the children would weep when they returned, and found their -offspring thus suddenly cut off, they replied, rather abruptly, "Why -should they weep at God's will?" - -As I was preparing to leave the village, a middle-aged woman came up to -me, and said:-- - -"Sahib, the parents of the dead children are very poor, and the expense -of burning their remains will press very hard upon them. The wood -for the old man will cost eight annas, and the fuel for each of the -children four annas; in all, one rupee." - -I placed the coin in the woman's hand, and left, besides, a donation -for the bereaved parents who were absent; having previously called -several of the villagers to witness the proceeding. This I did at the -suggestion of the palkee bearers, who entertained some doubts of the -woman's honesty. We had not proceeded far, when I descried a small -encampment beneath a clump of mango trees. It consisted of an officer's -tent, and two long tents for native soldiers--Sepoys. One of these long -tents was for the Hindoos, the other for the Mussulmans. When we came -opposite to the encampment, I desired the bearers to stop, and to put -some questions to a Sepoy who was standing near the road. I gleaned -from him that the encampment was that of "a treasure party," consisting -of a Lieutenant, and a company of native infantry, proceeding from -Mynpoorie to Agra. - -"Won't you go and see the Sahib?" asked the Sepoy. - -"I don't know him," said I. - -"That does not signify," said the Sepoy. "Our Sahib is glad to see -everybody. He is the most light-hearted man in Hindostan. His lips are -the home of laughter, and his presence awakens happiness in the breast -of the most sorrowful. His body is small, but his mind is great; and, -in his eyes, the Hindoo, the Mussulman, and the Christian, are all -equal." - -This description, I confess, aroused my curiosity to see so -philosophical a Lieutenant, and it was not long before my curiosity was -gratified; for he made his appearance at the door of his tent; and, -observing my palkee, bore down upon it. - -The Lieutenant wore a pair of white pyjamahs, which were tucked up to -his knees, no shoes or stockings; a blue shirt, no coat, no jacket; -a black necktie, and a leather helmet with a white covering, such as -one sees labelled in the shop-windows "for India." His person was very -small certainly, and the calves of his legs not bigger than those of -a boy of twelve years of age. In his mouth he had a huge (number one) -cheroot, and in his hand, a walking-stick, with a waist nearly as big -as his own. Resting his chest upon this walking-stick, and looking me -full in the face, perfectly ignorant, and seemingly indifferent, as to -whether I might be a secretary to the government, or a shopkeeper, he -thus familiarly accosted me:-- - -"Well, old boy, how do you feel after the shower?" - -"Very well, I thank you." - -"Come in and have a cup of tea, and a round of toast, if you are not in -a hurry to get on. It will set you up, and make you feel comfortable -for the night." This offer was so tempting, and so cordially made, that -I was induced to accept it. - -"Bring the Sahib into my tent, in the palkee," said Lieutenant Sixtie -to my bearers; and then addressing me, he remarked--"Don't get out. -You'll wet your slippers." - -The bearers followed the Lieutenant, and put down my palkee upon two -tiers of small boxes, which were spread over the space of ground -covered by the tent. - -"I was obliged to resort to this box dodge," said my host, "or I should -have been drowned. I wish I owned only a quarter of this rhino we are -treading on. If I did, catch me at this work any longer, my masters!" -It was the treasure that the boxes contained, in all about twenty-five -thousand pounds. "Look here, old boy. Forego, like a good fellow, the -tea and the toast. My servants will have such a bother to get a fire -and boil water. Have some biscuits and cold brandy-and-water instead. -You should never drink tea while travelling. It keeps you awake; and, -what is more, it spoils the flavour of your cheroots. By the bye, have -one of these weeds." - -I thanked my host; and, without any sort of pressing, yielded to his -every wish--even unto playing _écarté_ with him, while smoking his -cheroots and drinking his brandy-and-water. The stakes were not very -high. Only a rupee a game. During the deals, my host would frequently -exclaim: - -"By Jove! what a godsend it is to have some one to talk to for a few -hours! I have been out for five days; and, during that time, have not -uttered a word in my own language. Haven't had the luck to come across -a soul. This escorting treasure is the most awful part of an officer's -duty, especially at this season of the year." - -"But it must be done," I suggested. - -"Yes. But why not by native officers?" - -"Would the treasure be safe with them?" - -"Safe? Just as safe as it is now, if not safer; for, although I am -responsible for the money in these boxes, I don't know that the whole -amount is here. I didn't count it; and, if there was any deficiency, -I should say so. Now, a native officer would satisfy himself on the -subject before he took charge. Don't you see?" - -Here our conversation was interrupted by a havildar (native sergeant), -who appeared at the door of the tent, saluted the Lieutenant, and -uttered in a deep and solemn tone of voice the word Sa-hib! - -"Well. What's the matter?" said the Lieutenant. - -"Maun Singh Sipahee is very ill." - -"What ails him?" - -"He has fever." - -"Then I will come and see him in one moment." With these words the -Lieutenant threw down his cards, and invited me to accompany him to the -tent wherein the patient was lying. - -Maun Singh Sipahee was a powerful Brahmin, who stood upwards of six -feet two. He was a native of Oude, and had a very dark skin. When -we entered the tent, he attempted to rise from the charpai (native -bedstead) on which he was reclining; but the Lieutenant told him to be -still, then felt the sick man's pulse, and placed his small white hand -across the broad black forehead of the soldier. - -"Carry him into my tent. The ground is too damp for him here," said -the Lieutenant; and forthwith the bedstead was raised by half-a-dozen -of the man's comrades. In the tent medicine was administered--a small -quantity of tartar emetic dissolved in water, and given in very small -doses, until nausea was produced, and a gentle perspiration stood upon -the skin of the patient. - -"You are all right, now, Maun Singh," said the Lieutenant. - -"No, Sahib, I am dying. Nothing can save me." - -"Then you know better than I do?" - -"Forgive me, Sahib." - -"Listen. Lie very quiet; and, before we march, I will give you another -sort of medicine that will set you up." - -The Sepoy covered his head over with his resaiee (counterpane), and lay -as still as possible. - -"They always fancy they are going to die, if there is anything the -matter with them," said the Lieutenant to me. "I have cured hundreds of -fever cases by this treatment. The only medicines I ever use in fever, -sir, are tartar emetic and quinine. He has taken the one, which has had -its effect; the other he shall have by and bye. I wouldn't lose that -man on any account. His death would occasion me the greatest grief." - -"Is he a great favourite?" I asked. - -"Not more than any of the rest of them who were with the regiment -at Affghanistan, where they not only proved themselves as brave as -the European soldiers, but where they showed themselves superior to -prejudices most intimately connected with their religion--their caste. -That man, whom you see lying there, is a Brahmin of the highest caste; -yet, I have seen him, and other Brahmins now in my regiment, bearing -upon their shoulders the remains of an officer to the grave. Of course, -you are aware that to do a thing of that kind--to touch the corpse of -an unbeliever--involves a loss of caste?" - -"Yes." - -"Well, sir, these fellows braved the opinion and the taunts of every -Hindoo in the country, in order to pay respect to the memory of those -officers whose dangers and privations they had cheerfully shared. You -are aware, perhaps, that at last the government found it necessary -to issue a general order to the effect that any Sepoy of any other -regiment who insulted the men of this regiment, by telling them they -had lost their caste, would be severely punished and dismissed the -service? Such was the case, sir; and many courts-martial were held in -various stations for the trial of offenders against this order; and -many Hindoo Sepoys and Mussulman native officers were very severely -dealt with. And the thing was put down, sir; and now-a-days there is -nothing more common than for the Hindoo Sepoys, in all the regiments, -to ask permission to carry the remains of a popular officer to the -grave. Indeed, ladies are often thus honoured, and children. They seem -to have agreed amongst themselves that this does not involve a loss of -caste. So much for caste, if it can be got over by an understanding -amongst themselves! Caste! More than four-fifths of what they talk -about it is pure nonsense and falsehood, as any straightforward native -will confidentially confess to you. I don't mean to say that some -Hindoos are not very strict. Many, indeed, are so. But I mean to say -that a very small proportion live in accordance with the Shasters, and -that when they cry out, "if we do so and so we shall lose our caste," -it is nothing more than a rotten pretext for escaping some duty, or -for refusing to obey a distasteful order. There are hypocrites in all -countries, but India swarms with them more thickly than any country in -the world. And the fact is that we foster hypocrisy. Our fellows, and -most of them Brahmins, released a good many cats from the bag, when -they were taunted with having lost their caste! If you are not in a -frightful hurry to get on, stay till we march, and go with us; and I'll -tell you and show you something more about caste. You can send on your -palkee and bearers to the next encampment ground, and I'll drive you in -my old trap of a buggy. It is not a remarkably elegant affair, but it -is very strong and roomy. By the bye, we shall have to travel 'three in -a gig;' for I must put Maun Singh, my sick Sepoy, between us; and you -will find him a very intelligent fellow, I can tell you, and the dose I -intend giving him will make him as chirpy as possible." - -The conversation and the manners of the Lieutenant--free and easy as -were the latter--had fascinated me, and I accepted his invitation. - - - - -MARCHING. - - -The small but heavy boxes containing the rupees were placed upon the -hackeries (native carts), and the treasure party was now ready to -march to the next encampment. The night was warm, and the Sepoys in -what might strictly be termed half-dress. They wore their red cloth -coats and their chacos; but their lower clothing was purely native; -a dhotee (narrow strip of thick calico) wound round their loins, and -falling in graceful folds about and below the knees. Some sat upon -the boxes of treasure: others, not in line or military order, walked -by the side thereof. The Lieutenant, Maun Singh, and myself brought -up the rear. A syce (native groom) led the horse, and thus saved the -Lieutenant the trouble of driving. The buggy was not, certainly, a very -elegant affair. It was of very ancient construction, and the lining -was entirely worn out; nor had the panels been painted for some years. -The Lieutenant told me that he had bought this vehicle at a sale, five -years previously, for the sum of five pounds, and that since that time -it had travelled (marched, was the word he used) all over Bengal. The -harness was of Cawnpore make; and, when new, had cost only two pounds -ten shillings. Cawnpore, until recently, was chiefly famous for its -harness, boots and shoes, bottle-covers, cheroot-cases, helmets, and -other articles made of leather. A nest of Chinese settled in the bazaar -many years ago and introduced the manufacture of such matters. The -horse which drew the buggy had been a caster; that is to say, a horse -considered no longer fit for the cavalry or horse artillery, and sold -by public auction, after being branded with the letter R (signifying -rejected) on the near shoulder. He was a tall, well-bred animal; and, -according to the Lieutenant's account, had won no end of races since -the day he had been knocked down to the Lieutenant for sixteen rupees, -or one pound twelve shillings. The fault, or rather the misfortune, for -which this animal had been dismissed the Company's service, was total -blindness of one eye, and an inability to see much out of the other. - -"But, he is a ripper, nevertheless," said the Lieutenant, touching the -animal very gently with the whip, and making him hold his head up; "and -will put some more money in my pocket next cold weather, I hope. He is -entered for the Merchant's Plate, gentlemen riders, sir, and I am his -jockey." I expressed a hope that he would be successful. - -It was a moonlight night, and slow as was the pace at which we -proceeded, I never so much enjoyed a ride in my life. The scene -altogether was highly picturesque, and, as far as I was concerned, -had the wonderful charm of novelty; while it was impossible not to -be extremely entertained by the volubility and lightheartedness of my -military friend, who, notwithstanding he had extracted from me that I -did not belong to the civil service or the army, had refrained from -inquiring my name or pursuit, and invariably addressed me as Old Boy, -albeit my years were certainly not in excess of his own. - -"Well, Maun Singh!" cried the Lieutenant, "how do you feel now?" - -"Quite well, but very weak," was the Sepoy's reply. - -"Then you must have a little drop of weak brandy-and-water. Hold hard, -syce, and give me the suraiee (water-bottle)." - -The brandy-and-water was mixed in a silver tumbler, and handed to -Maun Singh, who, _as soon as the groom went again to the horse's -head_, applied it to his lips, and drank, without any scruple. On the -contrary, it struck me that he liked the liquor. - -"You have lost your caste," said the Lieutenant, jocularly. "You ought -to have drunk it, you know, as medicine, out of your own lota (brass -vessel)." - -This observation--made with a view to draw the Sepoy out for my -edification--had its effect. It was thus Maun Singh discoursed, while -the Lieutenant and myself smoked our cheroots on either side of him:-- - -"The Sahib logue believe everything that the natives tell them about -caste, and the consequence is they believe a great many falsehoods. -If I could lose my caste by drinking medicine out of this tumbler, I -would lose it by drinking it out of my own cup, because it came out of -a bottle which you have handled, and perhaps some drops of it touched -your fingers, while you were pouring it from one vessel to the other. -Empty a bottle of brandy or gin into your chillumchee (brass wash-hand -basin), and tell one of your palkee-bearers to throw it away. He and -his companions will drink it, but not in your presence. Ask the same -man to drink the liquor from your tumbler. He will put his hands -together, and implore you to excuse him, as he would lose his caste." - -"But is it not forbidden in the Shasters?" said I. - -"There is no mention of brandy in the Shasters, Sahib," returned Maun -Singh, with some humour. "The Shasters are silent on the subject. -But, supposing that it were forbidden; do not men of every religion -frequently and continually depart from the tenets thereof, in minor -things, or construe them according to their own inclination or -convenience, or make some sort of bundobust (agreement) with their -consciences? Indeed, if we did not make this bundobust, what Hindoo -or Mussulman would come in contact at all with one another, or with -Christians, and certainly we, the natives of India, would not serve as -soldiers." - -"How so?" - -"Because we should be in continual dread of having our bodies -contaminated and our souls placed beyond the reach of redemption--and -who would submit to that for so many rupees a-month? Who can say -what animal supplies the skin which is used for our chacos and -accoutrements? The cow, or the pig? The Mussulmans, when we laugh -together about it, say the cow. We protest that it is pigskin." - -"And how do you usually settle these disputes?" I inquired, with an -eagerness which seemed to amuse the Sepoy. - -"O, Sahib!" he replied, "it would be a pity to settle any dispute of -that kind, since it always affords us some merriment on a long march. -When Pertab Singh came down to Barruckpore to corrupt the regiments of -native infantry there stationed, in eighteen hundred and forty-eight, -he wanted them to protest against wearing the chacos." - -"And how was he received?" I inquired. - -"They listened to him as long as his money lasted, and then made known -to their officers what he was about." - -"And who was Pertab Singh?" - -"A relation of the Ranee of Lahore." - -"And had he money?" - -"Yes; and distributed freely." - -Here the Lieutenant informed me of the particulars relating to the -mission of Pertab Singh, which was simply to excite the native -troops to mutiny and to kill their officers; but the plot was happily -discovered by the information given by the Sepoys of the 16th -Grenadiers. "There was an investigation, but the government deemed it -best to treat the whole affair as a farce, and Pertab Singh was looked -upon as a fool and a madman, and eventually set at liberty. It was said -that the Sepoys who gave the information were to receive an order of -merit; they had no reward at all, however, beyond some expressions of -praise from the authorities." - -Suddenly, the treasure party halted, and all the Sepoys were speedily -congregated beneath a mango tree. - -"What is the matter?" cried the Lieutenant. - -"Adjutant Bargow Sahib's grave," said Maun Singh. "Do you not remember -the spot?" - -"I did not, in this light," said the Lieutenant, alighting from the -buggy, followed by myself and Maun Singh. "Yes; here he rests, poor -fellow--one of the best and bravest beings that ever breathed. He -died suddenly one morning when we were encamped here. He was a great -favourite with the men, as you may judge from the respect paid by those -now present to the spot where his ashes repose." - -One of the Sepoys suddenly began to call down curses on the head of -some sacrilegious thief. He had discovered that the piece of marble -which had been let into the head of the chunam (plaster) tomb, and on -which was cut the name, age, and regiment of the deceased, had been -abstracted. - -"Ah! that of course," said the Lieutenant. "It is always the case. -They steal the bit of marble to make a currystone--a stone on which -they grind the ingredients for a curry. It was not worth more than a -shilling, intrinsically; but if it had only been worth one anna, or a -quarter of an anna--half a farthing--they would have carried it away -all the same, just as they steal pieces of iron and lead from the stone -bridges, and thus do immense mischief. All along the Grand Trunk Road -you will find the stones used for headstones carried away from the -graves." - -The march, thirteen miles, occupied us five hours, so slowly did the -bullocks crawl along with the treasure. It was about four o'clock when -we came to the ground--the hour at which, in strictness, the Lieutenant -should have started; but he informed me that when on separate duty, he -took a good deal of responsibility on himself, and without detriment -to the interests of government, suited his own convenience and that of -his men. He therefore preferred making night work of the business, and -having the whole day at his own disposal. - -"Send your bearers away, and spend the day with me," said the -lighthearted Lieutenant. "You can get other bearers at any of the -villages in the neighbourhood; or, if you are not in a violent hurry, -march the whole distance to Agra with me. I can stick your palkee and -boxes on the top of the treasure, you know." - -I accepted the invitation with pleasure, and entered the tent, where we -found tea and biscuits ready. After partaking of this refreshment we -threw ourselves down on charpoys (native bedsteads), and soon fell fast -asleep. - -We slept till ten, when we arose, had breakfast, consisting of--the -old story--grilled fowl, curried fowl, and eggs, with beer instead -of tea; and then we went out and sat under the mango trees, which -formed a dense shade over the encampment. The Lieutenant had with -him a pellet bow, and was shooting at the squirrels, which abound in -the Upper Provinces of India. While he was thus employed a Sepoy--a -Brahmin--called out: "Sahib, you have no right to do that. It is -written in the general orders that you must respect the religious -feelings of the Hindoos, and here are you wantonly destroying the life -of animals in our presence. I shall report this to the Colonel Sahib, -when we return to the regiment." - -From the tone in which the Sepoy spoke, I thought he was in earnest. -The Lieutenant, however, assured me that he was only ridiculing one of -those absurd general orders which frequently appear, but of which bad -and discontented Sepoys often take advantage. Ere long this Brahmin, -observing that the light of the Lieutenant's cheroot was extinguished, -brought him some fire. The Lieutenant gravely shook his head, and -said--"No; it is written in general orders that no officer shall employ -for his own purposes a Sepoy who is a soldier and not a servant, and -that any officer so offending will subject himself to be tried by a -court martial." Then, taking the fire from the hand of the Brahmin, -he remarked to me--"The consequence of that order, for which there -never was the slightest occasion, is simply this: those men who are -willing to oblige their officers laugh at it, while the disaffected -will insolently quote it if required only to pick up a glove or a -walking-stick. Many an officer has been severely reprimanded for asking -a Sepoy to carry a letter for him to the post office." - -It was a very pretty scene, that encampment. The tents; the arms piled -in front of them; the horse under a tree, and his syce seated near him; -the old buggy and harness not far off; the Sepoys in groups employed in -cooking their food for the mid-day meal; the numbers of brass vessels -lying about in all directions; the score of squirrels hopping from -branch to branch, or running up and down the trunks of the trees; the -crows, the minars, and the sparrows on the look out for crumbs; the -bullocks taking their rest after the fatigues of the past night; and -then, before as well as after the meal, the men crowding round the -well, and washing themselves from head to foot, and washing also their -under garments, which are speedily dried in the sun of that climate. It -is impossible to witness and not admire this part of the Hindoo and -Mussulman religions. - -After one o'clock, when every man had enjoyed his smoke, there was -scarcely a soul, except myself and the Lieutenant, awake in the -encampment. All were fast asleep in the open air. The Asiatic must -sleep after his mid-day meal, if it be only for half an hour. The loss -of this little sleep is a very severe privation. - -At three o'clock the encampment was again all life. Some of the Sepoys -wrestled, and exhibited amazing skill and strength in the art. To an -European it is a mystery how men who live upon nothing but farinaceous -food can be so muscular and powerful. Others smoked their pipes (small -hookahs), and played at a native game called puchesee, resembling -lotto; while a goodly number congregated around a Mussulman, who was -reading aloud the Bagh-o-Bahar, a Hindoostanee work of great celebrity. -Two or three of the company were musical, and played alternately on the -sitarre (native guitar or violin), accompanied by the tom-tom (native -drum), and the voices of those who were disposed and able to sing. As -for the Lieutenant and myself we beguiled the time in conversation and -with _écarté_. Towards sunset a palkee dâk carriage was reported to be -in sight, coming down the road. "Hooray!" cried the Lieutenant; "come -along! let us board him. I am in want of a few small matters." - -It was not long before the dâk carriage was abreast of the encampment. - -"Stop!" shouted the Lieutenant to the driver, who instantly pulled up. -"Whom have you got inside?" - -Before the driver had time to reply, the door was slided open, and an -elderly gentleman, rubbing his eyes with his knuckles, put out his -night-capped head, and exclaimed: - -"Hulloa!" - -"What! have we woke you out of your sleep, old boy?" said the -Lieutenant, laughing. - -"Yes," replied the old boy, very good-humouredly, "what do you want?" - -"Only to ask you how you are." - -"I'm pretty well," was the reply, "but half choked with the dust." - -"What's taking you down the country?" - -"Urgent private affairs." - -"Going to be married, I suppose?" - -"Well, you have just guessed it." - -"Make my most respectful salaam to your intended, will you?" - -"By all means." - -"When do you expect to reach Cawnpore?" - -"To-morrow, at three P.M." - -"And how do you stand affected for liquors and weeds? Do you want -anything, old boy? Brandy, beer, soda-water? Say the word." - -"Nothing; I have more in the well here than I shall be able to consume." - -"Then I'll trouble you for the surplus; for I am very short, and cannot -get anything till I reach Agra, while you can replenish at every -station, you know." - -"All right, my child," exclaimed the old boy; and, with the greatest -cheerfulness, he alighted and began to unpack his stores. From these, -the Lieutenant took six bottles of beer, two bottles of brandy, a dozen -of soda-water, and three hundred Manilla cheroots. This done, the old -boy expressed a desire to push on; but the Lieutenant detained him -for at least ten minutes with a series of questions, several of which -(I thought), were somewhat impertinent; for instance, he inquired -his intended's name? whether she was tall, short, or of the middle -height? what was the colour of her hair and eyes? good-looking, and -accomplished? And to all these questions, the old boy responded with as -serious an air as if the Lieutenant had a perfect right to put them. - -At last the old boy proceeded on his journey. - -"Do you know him?" I inquired of the Lieutenant, as the carriage rolled -away. - -"Oh, yes," was the reply; "he is a Major commanding a native infantry -regiment at Banda. He is a very good fellow, and has heaps of property; -but a frightful fool, except in the way of money-making, and at that -he is awfully clever. I first made his acquaintance in Affghanistan. -He was then in the commissariat department, and was only taken out of -that department about a year ago, when he attained his majority. He -knows nothing whatever of soldiering, having been in staff employ ever -since he was an ensign. All the Sepoys, as well as his officers, laugh -_at_ him as he comes on the parade ground and attempts to handle the -regiment; and, after the farce is over, he laughs _with_ them. For -thirty years he was employed in commissariat duties, in which he is -very efficient. At the expiration of that period, he became a Major; -and then, according to the rules of the service, he was withdrawn from -staff employ, and appointed to command a corps!" - -"Surely you are jesting?" - -"On my honour, I am serious. That is a part of our military system, -sir." - -Here our conversation was interrupted by the approach of the -Soubadhar--native commissioned officer--who pronounced in a deep, -sonorous, but feeble and inarticulate voice, that familiar word -"Sahib!" or, as more commonly pronounced, "Sarb!" - -"Well, old man, what is the matter?" said the Lieutenant to the almost -imbecile native veteran, who had served in the time of Lord Lake, and -who ought to have been pensioned many years previously, despite any -remonstrances against such a measure. The old man forthwith began to -detail a string of grievances, which the Lieutenant faithfully (?) -promised to see remedied, albeit he could understand but a few words -the old man said--so very indistinct was his speech, from sheer old -age, and the loss of his teeth. - -"A grievance, real or imaginary, is quite necessary for that old -man's existence," said the Lieutenant; "and if he can't find one for -himself (which is a very rare circumstance), he will concoct one for -the Sepoys. To make grievances is the end and object of that old man's -life; and, I am sorry to say, that he is a perfect representative of -the entire body of native commissioned officers, who are, generally -speaking, despised by the men of the regiment, as well as by the -European officers. These are the gentlemen who brew or ferment all the -mischief that occasionally occurs in native regiments. They suggest to -the men to make all sorts of extortionate demands, just as a regiment -is on the point of marching. That old man's present grievance, as -far as I could collect, is that the water is very bad here, at this -encampment ground, and that government ought to have a new well sunk. -He happens just now to be suffering severely from one of the very many -ailments consequent on his time of life, and he attributes it to the -water." - -"Which happens to be very good," I remarked. - -"Precisely so. These native officers, of every rank and grade, are, in -my opinion, the curse of the native service. Many very clear-headed -and experienced officers have recommended doing away with them, and -appointing in their stead more European officers; but the advice has -never been heeded, and never will be, I fear." - -It was not until midnight that the little camp was broken up, and -we resumed the march towards Agra. During the drive, the Lieutenant -entertained me by relating a number of stories connected with the -war in Affghanistan. Several of them interested me exceedingly; one, -in particular. It was this; which I now give in the Lieutenant's own -words, as nearly as I can recollect them. - -"About a year ago," said he, "I was passing through Meerut, on my way -from the Hills, whither I had been on sick certificate, and was putting -up for a few days with my friend Richards, of the Light Cavalry--a -man whom I had known during that disastrous campaign to which this -narrative has reference. One morning, after breakfast, there came -to the bungalow of my friend an Affghan, who was a dealer in dried -fruits--such as grapes, apples, and pomegranates,--and inquired if -the Sahib or mem Sahib was in want of any of these commodities, which -he had just brought from Caubul. My friend's wife, who had also -been in Affghanistan, and spoke the mongrel Persian current in that -country, replied in the affirmative, and the Affghan was admitted -to the verandah to exhibit his specimens and declare his prices. To -talk to these dealers is rather amusing at times, especially when you -know their habits, and customs, and peculiarities, as well as their -language. To people who have been in their country, it is like meeting -with an old friend, and one lingers as long as possible over the -business of the bargain and sale. And so was it this morning. We had -him for at least an hour in the verandah before my friend's wife would -decide upon what she would take. This matter concluded, the Affghan -inquired if the lady would buy a kitten--a Persian kitten; kittens -being also a commodity with these travelling Affghans. - -"'Yes; where are the kittens?' said the lady. - -"'Here,' said the merchant, putting his hand into a huge pocket at the -back of his chogah (a sort of gaberdine), and withdrawing, one by one, -no less than sixteen of these little animals (all males). For more -than the hour which was consumed in negotiating about the fruit, and -talking on other subjects, this living bustle had remained perfectly -motionless, and had not uttered a single sound; but now, when they -saw the light, and were placed upon all-fours, they ran about and -mewed--bushy tails on end--after the most vigorous fashion imaginable. -There they were! Kittens as black as the blackest ink, kittens white as -the whitest snow, kittens as yellow as the yellowest gold, and kittens -piebald, brindled, and grey. - -"'There, mem Sahib; take your choice. Twenty rupees (two pounds) each.' - -"The lady selected one of the white and one of the black kittens, and -for the two he was induced to accept thirty-five rupees (three pounds -ten shillings). This may seem a large sum of money to give for a brace -of young cats; but it must be remembered that they came from Bokhara, -and were of the purest breed that could possibly be procured. - -"The Affghan dealer took his leave, and promised to send the fruits -in the course of the day. He fulfilled his promise; at tiffin-time -there came a boy of about eleven years of age, bearing the basket -containing them upon his head, which was shawled after the fashion of -the Affghan people. The boy was admitted to the room. No sooner was he -shown in, than his exceedingly beautiful countenance, and its peculiar -expression, riveted the attention of all of us, and we put to him a -variety of questions which he answered with great intelligence, and in -a tone of voice so soft and silvery that even the guttural sounds he -uttered came like music on the ear. - -"'Look into that boy's face,' said the lady to her husband and myself; -'observe his every feature, and his teeth,--regard especially his -smile,--yes, and even the shape of his fingers, and then tell me of -whom he is the very image.' - -"'I know,' said my friend. - -"'So do I,' exclaimed your humble servant. - -"'Stay!' said the lady, energetically. 'Do not speak; but let each of -us write the name on a slip of paper, and see if we agree;' and tearing -up an envelope and taking a tiny pencil-case from her watch-chain, she -wrote a name upon one slip, and then handed to me and to her husband, -respectively, a slip and the pencil-case. When we had each written a -name, we compared them,--and they did not agree exactly. My friend -and his wife had written Captain Percy ----, and I had written Mrs. -Percy ----. That the boy was the offspring of that unfortunate couple -(cousins), who perished in that campaign, and of whose young child no -one ever knew what had become, we were all quite satisfied; and our -reflections became extremely melancholy. - -"We questioned the boy as to his parentage, his relation to the -Affghan dealer in cats and fruit, and on a variety of other matters. -His replies were simply to the effect that he was an orphan and a -slave; that he knew not the place of his birth, but believed it -was Affghanistan; that he was a Mahommedan, and that his earliest -recollections were associated with Caubul. - -"Whilst we were thus interrogating the boy, the Major of my friend's -regiment, accompanied by his wife, drove up to the door. They had come -to pay a visit. When asked to look at the boy, and say to whom he -bore a resemblance, they at once declared, 'Poor Percy ----!' Several -officers of the regiment were sent for. They came, and immediately -on seeing the boy expressed an opinion that he was the child of the -unfortunate officer whose name has been partially recorded. The poor -boy, meanwhile, exhibited some anxiety to return to his master. But he -was detained and further questioned as to the manner in which he was -treated. He confessed that his master was rather severe, but withal a -very good man. - -"It was resolved to summon the Affghan dealer and make him render an -account of the boy, and of how he became possessed of him. For this -purpose a messenger was dispatched, and enjoined to make haste. - -"The Affghan dealer came, and was cautioned that he must speak the -truth; whereupon--as is the custom in India from one end to the -other--he declared that he never spoke falsely, and that he would -rather have his tongue torn out. This little preliminary over, the -examination (which was conducted by the Major of the regiment, a very -shrewd and clever man, and who, by the way, was distantly related to -the unfortunate couple to whom the boy bore such a strong resemblance) -commenced:-- - -"'Who is this boy?' - -"'He belongs to me.' - -"'Your son?' - -"'No.' - -"'Any relation of yours?' - -"'No.' - -"'Your slave?' - -"'Yes.' - -"'You bought him?' - -"'Yes.' - -"'Where?' - -"'Caubul.' - -"'When?' - -"'Four years ago.' - -"'From whom did you buy him?' - -"'A merchant.' - -"'His name?' - -"'Usuf Ooddeen.' - -"'What did you give for him?' - -"'Three camels.' - -"'Of what value?' - -"'Thirty rupees (3_l_.) each.' - -"'The boy was cheap, then?' - -"'No.' - -"'How so?' - -"'He was young and sickly.' - -"'Did Usuf say where he got him from?' - -"'Yes.' - -"'Then tell me.' - -"'From a woman.' - -"'What woman?' - -"'A native of Hindostan.' - -"'An ayah?' - -"'Yes.' - -"'Was she his mother?' - -"'No.' - -"'Is she living?' - -"'No.' - -"'When did she die?' - -"'Eight years ago.' - -"'Where?' - -"'In Caubul.' - -"'Now tell us all you know about this boy.' - -"'I have answered all the Sahib's questions; will the Sahib answer a -few of mine?' - -"'Yes.' - -"'Do you believe this boy to be of European birth?' - -"'Yes.' - -"'Do you think you know who were his parents?' - -"'Yes.' - -"'Were they people of a distinguished family?' - -"'Yes.' (This question was answered rather proudly.) - -"'Of pure blood?' - -"'Yes.' - -"'But is the Sahib certain that this boy is the child of certain -parents?' - -"'Yes.' - -"'Then will the Sahib take him?' - -"'Yes.' - -"Here the poor boy placed his hands together and supplicated the Major -to let him remain where he then was, in the service of the Affghan -dealer. Heedless of this interruption, which was soon silenced, -the examination--or rather the conversation, as it now became--was -continued:-- - -"'What will you give for him?' - -"'What do you ask?' - -"'_You_ must speak, Sahib.' - -"'One hundred rupees.' - -"'He cost me nearly that when he was very young and sickly.' - -"'Well, two hundred rupees.' - -"'No; Sahib. Half a lac of rupees would not purchase him.' - -"'But, my good man, slavery is not permitted in the British dominions, -and we will detain the boy.' - -"'Against his will?' - -"'Yes.' - -"'On suspicion that he is born of European parents of distinction?' - -"'Yes.' - -"'Then I will give the boy his liberty; and if he then wishes to follow -me, and you detain him, he is your prisoner instead of my slave.' - -"Here the boy again entreated the Major to spare him. - -"'Never mind that.' - -"'But suppose that I could prove to you that he is the child of a -sergeant of the Queen's 13th Regiment of Foot, and of his wife? What -then? Would you take the boy?' - -"'Yes.' - -"'You would?' - -"'Yes.' - -"'Then you shall have the boy. Many of your questions I answered -falsely, on purpose. The true history of the child I will recount to -you, and produce such proofs as I have in my possession. I vowed to God -and to the Prophet that I would never sell the child, and I have kept -my word. It will be a bitter grief to me to part with him; but, for his -own sake, I will endure it. - -"'Usuf Ooddeen was my elder brother. He kept a shop in the bazaar at -Caubul. This child was brought to him by a woman of Hindostan, who not -only deposited with him the child, but a sum of money in gold mohurs -and rupees; likewise a quantity of English jewellery, and her own gold -and silver bangles. She represented to my brother that the child's -parents had been killed, and that she was afraid every European in -Affghanistan would share their fate. My brother knew the woman, that -is to say, she had been a customer at his shop, and had purchased from -him sundry articles of warm clothing for her employers and herself. -After leaving the child, and the money, and the jewellery, in all to -the value of about four thousand rupees, she went her way, and never -returned. It is most likely that she died suddenly of cold, like very -many of the native servants of Hindostan, both male and female. The -frost settled about their hearts, and they slept their lives away; or, -if they escaped death, they lost their toes, fingers, ears, or noses. - -"'When the British army was victorious, and affairs were in a somewhat -settled state, my brother was most anxious to deliver up the child, -the money, and the jewels, to the British authorities; but a number of -his friends dissuaded him from so doing, on the ground that the bare -possession of the child would place my brother's life in jeopardy, -by inducing a conclusion that he was the affrighted accomplice of -murderers, assassins, and thieves. I confess that I was one who -entertained this opinion, and I shook my head whenever my brother -repeated his desire. Four or five years ago, my brother died, and I, -a wandering dealer, became the guardian of this boy (for whom I have -a great affection), and the holder of his money, for which I care -not, and which I have no desire to retain. He has travelled thousands -and thousands of miles with me. He has been to Bokhara, to Cashmere, -all over the Punjab, to Mooltan, Scinde, all through the north-west -provinces down to Calcutta, to Simlah, Mussooree--wherever the English -have settled themselves in India; and I have done all in my power to -expose him, in a quiet way, to the gaze of ladies and gentlemen, in -the hope that some day he would be recognised and restored to his -proper position in life. Never, until now, has any one been struck -with his countenance, beyond casually remarking to me that he was a -very pretty boy; certainly, no one ever seemed to have the slightest -idea that he was born of European parents, and is a Christian; for he -is not a Mussulman--though he thinks he is a Mussulman, and says his -prayers, and is very constant to all the observances of the Mussulman -faith. Gentleman, I am a wandering dealer from Affghanistan, but I am -not destitute of good feeling and integrity, little as you may credit -my assertions in this respect. Give me a proof that you know who were -the child's parents, and I am willing to restore him, and all that -rightfully belongs to him, to your custody.' - -"'But are you not satisfied with my word? Never mind the money and the -jewels--much as I should like to see the latter--all I require is the -boy,' said the Major. - -"'Of course, the Sahib would not speak an untruth knowingly,' returned -the Affghan. 'But I require some proof that the boy is the child of -certain European parents.' - -"'Well, there is the likeness, the unmistakeable likeness, that he -bears to his father and his mother.' - -"'That will not do,' said the Affghan, interrupting the Major. 'Can you -write in the Persian character, Sahib?' - -"'Yes.' - -"'Then, write the name of this boy's father in the Persian character, -and let me see it.' - -"The Major did this, and handed it to the Affghan, who looked at the -writing, smiled, and said: - -"'What else? What was the Sahib's nishan (crest)?' - -"'This,' said the Major, holding out the little finger of his right -hand, upon which was a signet-ring. 'This was his nishan. We are of the -same family, and the nishan is the same.' - -"The Affghan, having examined the crest, again smiled, and said:-- - -"'What else?' - -"'What more do you want?' said the Major. - -"'Do not be impatient, Sahib,' said the Affghan. 'The identification of -a child, who may be an heir to property, is not so light a matter as -the purchase of a kitten. Did you know the child's mother?' - -"'Yes,' said the Major. 'She was also a relation of mine.' - -"'What kind of person was she? Was she handsome?' - -"'Very.' - -"'The colour of her eyes?' - -"'Dark--almost black.' - -"'And her hair?' - -"'Brown; the colour of this lady's' (pointing to the wife of my friend). - -"'If you saw her likeness, in miniature, do you think you could -recognise it?' - -"'If it were a faithful likeness, I could.' - -"The Affghan put his hand into the breast pocket of his chogah, and -produced a greasy leathern bag, into the mouth of which he inserted his -finger and thumb, and presently produced a small tin box, round and -shallow, which he very carefully opened. Having removed some cotton, -he handed the box to the Major. All of us instantly recognised the -features of the unfortunate lady who had perished by the side of her -husband, in Affghanistan. Who could possibly forget that sweet feminine -face of hers, which had been painted for her husband by one of the -most distinguished miniature painters of the age? The production of -the likeness in the presence of the boy (who appeared to take little -interest in what was going on), had a sad effect upon the Major. He -sat down upon a chair, covered his manly face with his hands, and wept -bitterly. - -"'And do you know this, Sahib?' asked the Affghan, when the Major -had somewhat recovered his violent emotion: placing in his hand poor -Percy's seal. - -"We all recognised the seal, the crest of which, of course, -corresponded with the crest on the signet-ring of the Major. - -"'And this?' asked the Affghan, holding up a bracelet which we had seen -Mrs. Percy wear many and many a time. - -"'And this?' holding up to our gaze a small brooch she used to -wear constantly. And, amongst numerous other things, he exhibited -to us a little pocket-book, in which she kept her memoranda, such -as:--'November 9th. Cut the ends of my dear little boy's hair. Sent -mamma a small portion.--November 12th. Had a long talk to the old -ayah, who swore to me that she would ... and I believe her, for she -has been a good and constant creature to us, in our dangers and our -difficulties.' - -"'And this? And this? And this? And this?' said the Affghan, -withdrawing from the leathern bag its entire contents, every article -of which was instantly identified. 'There, Sahib, take them all, and -the boy, into your custody. The money, which was left with him, I will -restore to you to-night. It is at present in the bazaar, in the charge -of my camel, whom no one dare approach, except myself and this boy.' - -"Here a very extraordinary and painful, but perhaps natural, scene -occurred. The boy, who had been comparatively passive, now broke out -into a vehement expostulation, and spoke with a rapidity which was -truly amazing, considering that he distinctly enunciated every syllable -to which he gave utterance. 'What!' he exclaimed, 'will you then leave -me in the hands and at the mercy of these unbelievers? What have I done -to deserve this?' - -"'Be quiet,' said the Affghan to the boy, in a gentle tone of voice. - -"'How can I be quiet?' cried the boy, clenching his fists convulsively, -and drawing himself up, whilst his eyes glared, and his nostrils -dilated, with uncontrollable passion, and something like foam stood -upon his crimson lips. There could be no doubt whose child he was, so -wonderful in his wrath was the likeness that he bore to his father, -who was very seldom provoked to anger, but who, when it did happen, -was 'perplexed in the extreme:' in short, a perfect demon until the -paroxysm was over. - -"'Baba (child)!' said the Major, 'listen to me.' - -"'Don't talk to him now, Sahib,' said the Affghan, compassionately. 'In -his anger his senses always leave him, and he cannot hear what you say. -Let him exhaust his fury upon me. He will be powerless presently.' - -"And so it was. After a brief while, the boy sat down on the carpet, -gasped for breath, and was seemingly unable to move or speak. The lady -of the house offered him a glass of water, but he shrunk back, and -declined to receive it from her hand. - -"The Affghan took the Major aside, spoke to him in private, and then -left the room. Here another very painful scene ensued. The boy, -exhausted as he was, attempted to follow his late master; he was -restrained, of course; whereupon he uttered the most heart-rending -cries that ever were heard. The Major had him conveyed to his bungalow, -where a room was set apart for him, and a servant and an orderly had -him in their keeping. It was a month before the boy could be reconciled -to his 'fate,' as he called it; and soon afterwards arrangements were -made for sending him home to his grandfather and grandmother, who are -persons of a lofty position in life and very wealthy. They received -him with extreme affection, and on the death of his grandfather, he -will succeed to a title and an estate worth eleven thousand a-year. The -Affghan, who was very fond of the boy, corresponds with him regularly, -and they exchange presents, as well as letters. - -"Kelly, of the 62nd, who was killed at Ferozeshah, and who formerly -belonged to the 13th Foot, when they were in Affghanistan, told me a -more curious story of a little girl, than the one I have related to you -of this boy." - -"What was it?" I asked. - -"My dear fellow," said the Lieutenant, "I cannot talk any more just -now. You shall have it some other day. We are not going to part company -yet, old boy." With these words he fell asleep, his feet over the -dashboard, and his head resting on my shoulder. - - - - -THE MARCH CONTINUED. - - -The next encampment-ground at which we halted was close to a dâk -bungalow; and, during the day, there were several arrivals and -departures, the travellers merely halting for an hour or so, while -some refreshment was got ready. The Lieutenant, who appeared to know -everybody in Hindostan (I never met a person who did not know him), -contrived, to use his own phrase, to "screw a small chat out of each -of them." On one occasion he returned to the tent richer than he left -it. He carried in one hand a small basket containing preserved oysters, -crystallized apricots, and captains' biscuits, and in the other a stone -bottle of Maraschino. Under his arm was a quantity of gauze, which he -wanted for a veil, he said. These contributions he had levied from a -lady who was going to Muttra, where her husband was an official of some -magnitude. She had just returned from England, the Lieutenant informed -me, and was looking as blooming as possible. To my question, "Do you -know her?" he responded, "Oh yes; she is one of my sixty!" - -"Sixty what?" - -"First cousins." - -"All in India?" - -"Every one of them. My good sir, I have at this moment, in the Bengal -Presidency alone, upwards of two hundred and twenty relations and -connexions, male and female, and every one of them--that is to say, the -men and the boys--in the service of the government." - -"Is it possible?" - -"Yes. What is more, four-fifths of the number are in the civil service. -I should have been in the civil service too, only I was sent away from -Haileybury for rebellion and card-playing. It is not an easy matter for -me to go to any station in these provinces without finding a cousin in -it." - -"Do you know the assistant-magistrate of Agra?" - -"Yes." - -"Is he a cousin of yours?" - -"_He_ isn't. But his wife's father and my father were own brothers; so -it amounts to pretty much the same thing." - -"And do you know the judge of Jampore?" This was a gentleman to whom I -had letters of introduction. - -"Yes. His mother was my aunt." - -"It must be dangerous," I suggested, "to express an opinion of any one -in India in the presence of a man who has so very many relations." - -"Oh, dear no!" said the Lieutenant. "A man with such a frightful lot of -connexions has no right to be, and is not generally, very sensitive. -Bless me! if I had nothing to do but to stand up for my relations, I -should run the risk of being perpetually knocked down. Life is much -too short for that sort of thing. Therefore, when I hear any one abuse -or reflect upon any relation or connexion of mine, I am invariably -silent; or, if appealed to, express my indifference by a shrug of the -shoulders." - -Here we were interrupted by the old Soubahdar, who came to the door of -the tent. He had dined, washed, smoked, slept, and had now got up to -grumble. His huge teak-box, which measured four feet by two, and two -feet deep, and without which he never travelled, had received a slight -injury, and of this he had come to complain. He said, that in the time -of Lord Clive or Lord Lake, if such a thing had happened, the men in -charge of the hackeries (carts) would have been hanged on the spot; -and Phool Singh Brahmin, whose exertions, he alleged, prevented the -utter destruction of the box, would have been promoted to the rank of -havildar. - -"Clive and Lake!" whispered the Lieutenant to me. "He talks like a -leading article in a London newspaper." Then, turning to the old man, -he inquired, "Would Lord Clive or Lord Lake have sanctioned your -carrying about that beastly trunk on a march at all?" - -"Yes, Sahib." - -"It is not true. Lord Clive and Lord Lake gained their victories by -the help of self-denying men, who cheerfully endured any personal -inconvenience; not by a parcel of old grumblers like yourself, who have -no right to refer to the career of those illustrious men." - -"Sahib, I was with Lord Lake's army." - -"Then, that's the very reason that you ought not to be here." - -"But our present Colonel, Sahib, was with Lord Lake." - -"And I wish he was with Lord Lake now!" - -"I shall report this, Sahib." - -"Very well. Do!" - -Whereupon the old officer left the tent, and the Lieutenant assured me -that the Colonel, who was as imbecile as the Soubahdar, would cause the -matter to be investigated, and that he, the Lieutenant, would, to a -certainty, receive a severe reprimand. - -"For what?" I asked. - -"For not having made arrangements for the safe conveyance of the -baggage, and for having treated with a want of courtesy a native -commissioned officer of the regiment. I need scarcely say, that this -reprimand will not in any way interfere with my night's rest." - -"But, the complainant will forget it," said I, "before he gets back to -the regiment." - -"Forget it!" exclaimed the Lieutenant. "Forget it! A native--especially -a native commissioned officer--forget a grievance! Catch that old man -forgetting the slightest unpleasantness that has occurred to him -during this march. He will, it is true, forget his present grievance -to-morrow, when he has a fresh one; but at the end of the journey they -will be forthcoming in a lump." - -This prophecy was destined not to be fulfilled; for, presently, a -Sepoy came to the Lieutenant, and reported that the Soubahdar was very -ill. We hastened to the old man's tent, and found him, strange to say, -in the last extremity. He was going very fast; but, nevertheless, he -continued to gurgle forth a grievance. He demanded, with his last -breath--why the East India Company did not give him his pay, as in Lord -Lake's time, in _sicca_ rupees? - -"You shall, in future, receive it in _sicca_ rupees," said the -Lieutenant, bending over the old man, whose hand he grasped tightly. - -"And will my losses be made good?" he asked, with awful energy. - -"Yes," said the Lieutenant. - -"It is well!" and the old man slipped almost imperceptibly from one -world to another. - -That the old Soubahdar, who was upwards of eighty, had died of natural -causes, there could be no question; but, clamorous as was the entire -company for the interment of the body, the Lieutenant determined on -taking it to Agra, for the purpose of a surgical examination. Meanwhile -the old man's effects were scrupulously collected and put under seal. - -We were now only twenty-six miles from Agra, the capital of the North -West Provinces, and it was agreed to perform the distance in one march. -We therefore started at sundown, and travelled all night. The moon was -shining brightly, the road was in excellent order, and, notwithstanding -that the old Soubahdar was lying lifeless on the top of some of the -treasure-boxes, the Sepoys were in high spirits, and on several -occasions even jocular in respect to the deceased's weakness--that of -perpetually grumbling. - -Shortly after the day had dawned, I beheld on the distant horizon -something like a large white cloud. Had we been at sea, I should -have said it was a sail or an iceberg, to which it bore a striking -resemblance. I pointed it out to the Lieutenant, who smiled. - -"Don't you know what that is?" he said. - -"No," I answered. - -"Can't you guess?" - -"No. What is it?" - -"That is the famous Taj Mahal. That is the building that defies the -most graphic pen in the world to do justice to its grandeur and its -transcendent beauty. Bulwer, in the _Lady of Lyons_, has a passage -which sometimes reminds me of the Taj:-- - - A palace lifting to eternal summer - Its marble halls from out a glassy bower - Of coolest foliage, musical with birds. - -But how far short must any description of such a place fall! How far -distant do you suppose we are from that building?" - -"About two miles." - -"Upwards of nine miles, as the crow flies! Yes; that is the Taj, the -tomb of a woman, the wife of the Emperor Shah Jehan. The pure white -marble of which it is built was brought from Ajmere. For upwards of -twenty-five years, twenty-five thousand men were employed, day by day, -on that edifice. I am afraid to say how many millions it cost. The -Mahrattas carried away the huge silver gates and made them into rupees. -What became of the inner gate, which was formed of a single piece -of agate, no one can say. The general opinion is, that it is buried -somewhere in Bhurtpore. The original idea was, to build a corresponding -tomb on this side of the river for the Emperor himself, and connect the -two by a bridge of white marble. A very pretty idea, was it not? Lord -William Bentinck was for pulling the Taj down and selling the marble, -or using it for building purposes." - -"Impossible!" - -"Not at all. He thought it was very impolitic to allow these gorgeous -edifices to stand--these monuments of folly, extravagance, and -superstition, which served none but the worst of prejudices, leading -the natives to draw prejudicial comparisons between the simple and -economical structures of the British and these stupendous and costly -erections of the Moghul Emperors. And most assuredly our bungalows, -churches, and other buildings do present a most beggarly appearance -alongside these masses of polished marble and red stone. It looks -as though we had no confidence in our hold of the country, and -therefore would not go to any expense worth speaking of. Look at our -court-houses, in the civil lines, as that part of Agra is called--a -parcel of paltry brick and mortar pigeon-holes, not to be compared with -the tenements that the menial servants of the Emperors inhabited. Look -at the Government House, the Metcalfe Testimonial, and other paltry -European edifices. - -"Surely," said I, "you would preserve rather than deface or destroy -these magnificent works of art--these wonders of the world?" - -"Works of art and wonders of the world they doubtless are; but, -under existing circumstances, they are eye-sores, and I would -pull down every one of them, and convert the material into useful -buildings--barracks--splendid barracks for our British and native -troops; hospitals, worthy of being called hospitals; court-houses, -churches, magazines, and so forth." - -"But what barbarians the natives would think us!" - -"What does that signify? Are we the conquerors of the country, or are -we not? As to what they would think of us, they can't think much worse -of us than they do already. Do we not eat swine's flesh? and do not -English ladies dance (the natives call it 'jumping about'), and with -men who are not their husbands? Barbarians! Why, the very dress that we -wear renders us barbarians in their sight." - -The sun had now risen high in the heavens, and his rays fell upon the -Taj, which we were gradually approaching. I was wrapped in admiration, -and wishing in my inmost heart that my talkative companion would -cease, and leave me to gaze in silence on that glorious scene, when -suddenly the procession halted, and the Lieutenant shouted out the word -"Hulloa!" in a voice so loud that I was completely startled. - -"What is the matter?" I asked. - -"Matter!" the Lieutenant echoed me. "Matter! Look a-head! There is a -wheel off one of those rickety carts, and those confounded boxes are -scattered all over the road." Here the little officer bounded like an -Indian-rubber ball from his seat, and in a towering passion with all -the world in general, but no one in particular, rushed to the spot -where the disaster had occurred, and there began to fret, fume, and -snort most violently. - -"Hush, Sahib!" said one of the Sepoys, saluting his officer very -respectfully, "or you may wake the Soubahdar, and _then_ what will -happen?" - -This appeal had the effect of restoring the Lieutenant to calmness -and good-humour. He smiled, and seemed to feel that matters would -certainly have been worse, and the delay more protracted, had the old -man been alive and witnessed the accident. - -One of the boxes was smashed to pieces, and the rupees were lying about -in all directions, the Sepoys picking them up, and searching for others -in the dust and sand. I never witnessed a more ridiculous or grotesque -scene than this--the native soldiers in their red coats and chacos, -but with bare legs and without shoes, kneeling, and sifting the earth -through their fingers, the Lieutenant in his pyjamahs and solar hat, a -cheroot in his mouth, and in his hand the buggy-whip, which he used as -a baton while giving his orders. - -"Does this often happen?" I was tempted to ask. - -"Constantly," was the Lieutenant's reply. "The Government has -a bullock-train for the conveyance of stores; and even private -individuals, by paying for the carriage, may have their goods taken -from station to station; but, in respect to treasure, we cling to the -old system. The military authorities apply to the magistrates, whose -subordinates provide these hackeries, which were in vogue some five -thousand years ago. And just observe those rotten boxes." - -"Why are they not lined with cast iron or zinc?" - -"It would be too expensive. The Government cannot afford it." - -"But why should not the Government use its own bullock-train for the -conveyance of treasure, instead of hiring these antiquated and rotten -conveyances?" - -"Because the bullock-train is under the post-office authorities; and -the military authorities have nothing to do with the post-office -authorities." - -"Is that a reason?" - -"No--nor is it rhyme; but it is a part of our Indian system, and, what -is more, it is Government logic. However, I am not going to stop here -all day. We will push on, and get into Agra before breakfast. The -treasure will come all right enough, and I will be there to meet it at -the office of the magistrate and collector." - -We now took our seats in the old buggy. The hood was raised, the syce -sat behind, and off we went at a canter, which very soon became a -gallop. In the parlance of the Lieutenant, the old horse was indeed -"a ripper." When warm there was no holding him, and he went over -his seven and a half miles of ground in thirty-seven minutes. At -the bridge of boats which crosses the Jumna, we met, by chance, the -assistant magistrate (the friend with whom I was going to stay, and -the husband of the Lieutenant's first cousin). He was dressed in a -pair of large jack-boots, corduroy breeches, a shooting-coat, and a -solar helmet, and was riding an immensely powerful Cape horse. He did -not recognise either of us at first, but pulled up, and turned round -the moment the Lieutenant shouted out his name, with the addition of -"Old boy!"--household words in the mouth of the Lieutenant, for he -not only applied them to things animate, but inanimate; for instance, -his corkscrew, his teapot, his buggy, his watch, his hat, everything -with him was an old boy, in common with the Lieutenant-Governor, or the -general commanding the division. - -After I had been greeted by my friend, who had been at a loss to -account for my delay in reaching Agra--the Lieutenant thus addressed -him: - -"I say, old boy. Look here. I have a lot of treasure for you about -seven or eight miles from this; but there has been a break down. Send -out a lot of fellows to give assistance, will you?" - -"Yes." - -"And look here, old boy. There's a dead Soubahdar." - -"A what?" - -"A dead Soubahdar. He died suddenly, and I don't wish him to be buried -without an examination, because I bullied him mildly only a short time -previous to his going out. You will manage that for me, old boy, won't -you?" - -"Oh, yes." - -"He died of old age, and his last grievance; but still I should like a -medical man's certificate; just to satisfy the colonel who served with -him in Lord Lake's time, you know, and all that sort of thing." - -"I can manage all that for you," replied the official, riding by the -side of the buggy; "but push on, for the sun is becoming rather -oppressive, and I have no hood to my saddle, remember." - -My host and hostess made me as comfortable and as happy as any -traveller could wish to be made. Of the former I saw little or nothing -from eleven in the morning till three or four in the evening, for he -was what is called a conscientious officer, and attended strictly -to his work. During these hours I used to read, or pay a visit to -the mess-rooms of a regiment where a billiard-table was kept. To -the officers of the regiment I was introduced by Lieutenant Sixtie, -previous to his return to his own corps. He stayed eight days in -Agra--upon some plea or other--and sent his company on, in advance of -him. - -Agra--that is to say, the society of Agra--was at the time split into -two sections, the civil and the military. They were not exactly at -open war, but there was a coolness existing between the two branches. -They did not invite each other, and very seldom exchanged calls. For -me, who was desirous of seeing all parties, this was rather awkward, -living as I was in the house of a civilian. So I resolved upon taking -a small bungalow for a short period, and furnishing it in a mild and -inexpensive manner. I was candid enough to confess to my host that, -as I was in no way connected with either branch of the service, I was -anxious to avoid taking any part in their local differences; and he had -the good sense not to press me to remain under his roof. - -A few days after I had located myself in my bungalow, I received -a call from a native gentleman, a Seik chieftain, who was, and -now is, a state prisoner on a handsome stipend. He drove up to my -door in a small phaeton, drawn by a pair of large black mules of -incredible swiftness and agility. This fallen chieftain--a tall and -powerfully-built man--was no other than the renowned Rajah Lall -Singh, who commanded the Seik cavalry at the battle of Ferozeshah, -and who was subsequently Prime Minister at Lahore, during a portion -of the time that the British Government undertook the administration -of the Punjab on behalf of Maharajah Dulleep Singh. Lall Singh was -now studying surgery. More than one medical officer in charge of the -hospitals which he attended, informed me that the Rajah was already -a comparatively skilful operator, and could take off an arm or a leg -with surprising dexterity. Notwithstanding his previous character--that -of a sensualist and faithless intriguer; one, indeed, who had not -been constant even to his own villanies--I could not help liking his -conversation, which was humorously enlivened with imitations of English -officers with whom he had come in contact, and was entertaining to the -last degree. His anecdotes, relating to the late Runjeet Singh, were -peculiarly interesting; coming as they did from the lips of a man who -had been so much in the company of that remarkable monarch, who in many -respects resembled Napoleon the First, especially in the selection of -the instruments of his power. "All his" (Runjeet's) "chief men," said -the Rajah, "were persons of obscure origin: Tej Singh, Sawan Mull, -Deenanauth, and the rest of them." - -"But you were an exception," said I. - -"Indeed not," was his reply. "I began life as a muleteer, and hence my -partiality for mules, perhaps." - -After a while the Rajah invited me to take a drive with him, to a house -about two miles in the country, and situated on the banks of the Jumna. -It was not his own house, which was then under repair, he said, but -had been placed at his disposal by a friend. I thanked the Rajah, and -stepped into his carriage; he followed me, seized the reins, shook the -whip, and away we went at the rate of sixteen miles an hour. - -The garden-house, at which we soon arrived, was a spacious building of -European architecture. It had formerly belonged to a general officer -who had married a native woman of considerable wealth. The furniture -was all of European make, and was arranged very much in the same -manner as that in the Sahib Logue's apartments at Bhitoor. In point -of quality it was also very much the same--a portion costly, and the -rest of a common description. This house, too, was constantly inhabited -by English folks who sought a change of air for a few days. Since his -removal to Agra, Lall Singh lived more like an European than a native, -and had got into the habit of sitting at ease in a chair, instead of -cross-legged like a tailor on the carpet. His dress was of the simplest -and most unpretending character imaginable; and, with the exception of -a signet-ring on his forefinger, he had no ornament on his person. The -table of the apartment to which he conducted me was literally covered -with surgical instruments--saws, knives, scalpels of every size and -shape. Amongst them I perceived a pair of swords in wooden scabbards -covered with rich green velvet, and ornamented with gold and precious -stones. Observing that my eyes rested on these swords, he took one up, -and remarked, "These have performed some curious operations in their -time; but never in a hospital. They have been used chiefly for taking -off heads. This once belonged to Dhyan Singh, and that to Heera Singh, -who were both assassinated. They are of Damascus steel, and are sharper -than any of these knives or scalpels. I have sent a number of swords -to England to have them made into surgical instruments." Here our -conversation was interrupted by a domestic, who announced-- - - "THE LALLAH SAHIB;" - -and presently a native gentleman walked, or rather limped (for he -was lame of the right leg) into the room, and made a very graceful -salaam, first to the Rajah and then to myself. He was rather short in -stature, but very stoutly built, and about forty years of age. His eyes -were full of intelligence and vigour, and his features regular and -well-shapen. His manners were easy, affable, unassuming, and modest, -and his attire as plain and quiet as possible. - -"This gentleman, Sahib," said the Rajah, addressing me, "is a great -friend of mine. This house belongs to him. A strange world is this! -Only a few years ago, I offered a reward of a lac of rupees (ten -thousand pounds) for his head, or two lacs to any one who would bring -him alive to my tent." - -"Indeed!" - -"Yes; and if I had caught him, how changed would have been the whole -face of affairs in this country!" - -"How so?" - -"This gentleman was the contractor for the British army; and, if I had -got hold of him, the army could not have been supplied." - -"But why was he worth more alive than dead?" I asked, with a laugh, in -which the native gentleman heartily joined. - -"Because," returned the Rajah, coolly, "if we had secured him alive -we would have made him feed us with the supplies bought with his own -money; which should also have paid the reward for his capture. This, -by the way, was claimed by several who brought in heads, alleging that -each was the head of the Lallah the contractor; but the attempted -imposition was discovered, and the perpetrators were themselves -decapitated." - -Unlike Hindoos and Mussulmans, who drink in secret, Lall Singh drank -neat brandy openly; and, rising from his chair, he administered unto -himself a couple of glasses--or rather a tumbler half-filled--on -this occasion. He could take more than two bottles of brandy without -being in the least intoxicated. This was owing, of course, to the -circumstance that he consumed considerable quantities of bhang; just -in the same way that an opium-eater is rarely or never affected by -drinking deeply of wine. - -The Rajah's visitor, the Lallah Jooteepersâd, had a grievance, and a -rather substantial one. He had claimed from the Government fifty-seven -lacs of rupees (half a million and seventy-thousand pounds sterling) as -the balance due to him for feeding the armies employed during the two -Seik campaigns; and the Government had threatened to prosecute him, in -one of their own courts, for an attempt to make an overcharge of forty -thousand rupees, or four thousand pounds. - -"And if they understand the principles of good government thoroughly," -said the Rajah, "they will convict you, imprison you for life, and -confiscate all your possessions, real and personal. That is the way -the Lahore Durbar would have settled so large a claim. But the Indian -Government has not the courage to act in that way." - -"But I have not attempted to make an overcharge; and if my agents have -done so, let it be deducted, if it be incorrect," said the Lallah. - -"You are a criminal," said the Rajah. - -"How so?" asked the Lallah. - -"You say the Government owes you fifty-seven lacs?" - -"Yes--and honestly." - -"Well, is not that enough to warrant your being transported for life, -or hanged? But, as I have told you, the Government has not courage to -prosecute you." - -In this opinion, however, Lall Singh was in error; for, that very -night, the Lallah was informed that he was, to all intents and -purposes, a prisoner, and must not leave Agra. The firm belief -of every native, not only in the district but throughout India, -was, that these proceedings had been taken to evade payment of the -contractor's just demands. But the Lallah himself was the first to -deny this assertion, and to declare that the prosecution arose out of -the circumstance of the Commissary-General being a near relative of -the Governor-General of India; that a civilian in power had a quarrel -with the Commissary-General, and had represented, semi-officially, -that great frauds had been committed, and there could be no question -that the heads of the departments were cognisant of such frauds; that -the Governor-General, anxious that the honour of a member of his -ancient family should be cleared up, had determined upon a strict -investigation; and that the civilian in question suggested the public -prosecution of the contractor as the speediest and most satisfactory -means of arriving at the result! And such was the opinion of many -officers of the Government, civil and military! - -The contractor, however, was eventually acquitted, and the Government -paid the bill. But, to this day, the natives of India believe that -the object of the Government was to cheat their creditor; while the -officers, civil and military, are equally sanguine that it was "the -honour of the family" that led to the most extraordinary and protracted -trial that ever was known in India, and which was emphatically -denounced, by the press and public; of every country in Europe, as -absurd, unjust, and shameful. Nevertheless, Jooteepersâd cannot have -harboured any revenge for the wrongs (involving disgrace and dishonour) -which were heaped upon him; for it is he who has fed, for several -months, the five thousand Christians during their incarceration in the -fortress of Agra; and, amongst the number of civilians there shut up, -is the gentleman who conducted the prosecution on the behalf of the -Government, and who, in the execution of his duty, strove very hard -indeed for a verdict of guilty! Without Jooteepersâd we could not have -held Agra! - -When the sun had gone down, and it was cool enough to walk abroad, -Lall Singh led me into the extensive gardens which surrounded his -temporary abode. The Lallah had left us, and I was now alone with the -ex-Commander of the Seik Cavalry and the ex-Prime Minister of Lahore. I -felt much more pleasure in his society than I should have felt had he -been in the plenitude of his power; for he bore his altered condition -with great dignity and cheerfulness, and discoursed upon all sorts of -topics without any restraint or reserve. He even talked about the Ranee -of Lahore--with whom his name had been so frequently coupled--and with -a chivalrous spirit (whether his assertions were true or not is another -matter) assured me that his intrigues with her had been confined -exclusively to politics. I asked him where this helpless woman had fled -to, after her miraculous escape from Benares, in the garb of a man? He -replied that he knew not. He was sure she was not in Nepal--where the -authorities supposed her to be--but somewhere in our own provinces. - -"Was she a beautiful woman?" I asked. - -"No; and never had been," was his reply. "But she had eyes which could -charm like those of a snake, and a voice sweeter than that of a bird." - -"They say she was the Messalina of the East," and I explained to him -what the allusion signified. - -"It is not true," he exclaimed vehemently. "She was a vain and clever -woman; but the very opposite of the character that she has been -described. She was proud of the influence she possessed over men in -making them subservient to her will and her caprices." - -"Had she great power over Runjeet Singh?" - -"None. She was his doll, his plaything, and the only being who could -calm him when he had the horrors. Nothing more." - -"How the horrors?" - -"Runjeet Singh began life as a petty chieftain, with a few hundred -followers. He acquired a vast kingdom, and had the most powerful army -that the East ever saw, or will see. Whilst he went on conquering, -shedding blood, and plundering, he was easy in his mind; but, when -he found that he had got as much as he could manage, he stopped; and -then came his disquiet. His great fear then was that he could not -retain what he had become possessed of--and his chief horror was that -the Koh-i-noor would be carried off--that diamond which Runjeet Singh -stole, and which the Ranee has worn a thousand times as a bracelet. -That diamond which is now in the crown of England." - -"Where did it come from originally?" - -"No one can say that. The history of the Koh-i-noor has yet to be -written. Did you ever see a likeness of Runjeet Singh?" - -"Never." - -"Then I will show you a very faithful one; a miniature taken by a -famous painter who came from Delhi, and spent his life in Lahore. The -Maharajah was a diminutive, shrivelled man, frightfully pitted with -the small-pox, which had destroyed one of his eyes; but with the other -he could gaze for an hour without ever winking. He had a shrill and -squeaking voice; but it terrified those who heard it, especially when -he was angry. He did not talk much; but he was a great listener. Then, -shrivelled and emaciated as he was in his later years, he was possessed -of immense physical strength when roused; and upon horseback, where -skill could be exercised, few men in his kingdom could have disarmed -him." - -"Indeed!" - -"He inspired all those who approached him--whether European or -native--with respect mingled with intense fear." - -Our conversation was here interrupted by a gardener, who presented the -Rajah and myself respectively with a nosegay; and who volunteered the -information, that some workmen, in digging the foundation for a vine -trellis had come upon an old house under the earth, and in it had been -found several gold and silver coins. - -"Where?" asked the Rajah. - -"There," said the gardener, pointing in the direction. - -We hurried to the spot, and found that the workmen had gone; but sure -enough, there were the walls of an apartment, formed of red stone and -white marble. - -"This quarter of Agra," said the Rajah to me, "was formerly inhabited -by persons of the highest rank. Where we are now standing was, no -doubt, once the site of a palace; and these walls are those of -the ty-khana--a vault beneath the dwelling from which the light is -excluded. In these dark places are usually perpetrated what you English -call 'dark deeds.'" - -I expressed a desire to explore this newly discovered apartment of -former days; but the Rajah told me it was then too late, as the workmen -had gone; but he promised me that if I would come to him at daylight on -the following morning, he would have great pleasure in gratifying my -curiosity. - -On the following morning, having spent a very dreamy night, I was -carried in my palanquin to the Jatnee Bagh. Such was the name of -Jooteepersâd's garden-house, in which Lall Singh then resided. The -Rajah was dressing. I was confronted by a Seik with an enormous -beard, whose hair was a yard long and tied up in a peculiar knot -on the top of his head, and who politely inquired if I would take -coffee. Ere long the Rajah made his appearance, and we went together -to the newly discovered ty-khana, which was now guarded, since gold -and silver had been found there. The workmen, some twenty in number, -came and commenced their labour: that of clearing away the earth in -all directions, in order to get to the bottom of the apartment in -the ty-khana. This was accomplished in about two hours, and we then -stood upon a stone-floor in the centre of a room, about sixteen feet -square. In several of the niches were little lamps, such as are burnt -upon the tombs of Moslems, and a hookah and a pair of marble chairs -were found in the subterraneous apartment; of which the sky was now -the roof. Whilst examining the walls, I observed that, upon one side, -there was a ledge about six feet high from the floor (and carried up -therefrom), and about a foot in width. This ledge, which was of brick -and plaster, resembled a huge mantelpiece, and was continued from one -end of the apartment to the other. I asked the Rajah the reason of -such a structure in the apartment. He replied that he did not know, -nor could any of the workmen account for it; one of them, however, -took a pickaxe and dug out a portion, when, to my surprise and horror, -I discovered that in this wall a human being had been bricked up. The -skin was still upon the bones, which were covered with a costly dress -of white muslin, spangled all over with gold; around the neck was a -string of pearls; on the wrists and ankles were gold bangles, and on -the feet were a pair of slippers, embroidered all over with silver wire -or thread; such slippers as only Mahommedan women of rank or wealth can -afford to wear. The body resembled a well-preserved mummy. The features -were very distinct, and were those of a woman whose age could not at -the time of her death have exceeded eighteen or nineteen years. The -head was partially covered with the white dress. Long black hair was -still clinging to the scalp, and was parted across the forehead and -carried behind the ears. It was the most horrible and ghastly figure -that I ever beheld. - -The workmen appeared to take this discovery as a matter of course; -or, rather, to regard it only with reference to the gold and silver -ornaments upon the skeleton, and it was with great difficulty that -I could prevent them stripping it, forthwith. As for the Rajah, he -simply smiled and coolly remarked: "A case of jealousy. Her husband was -jealous of her, and thought her guilty, and punished her thus--bricked -her up alive in this wall, with no room to move about, only standing -room. Perhaps she deserved it,--perhaps she was plotting against -his life; perhaps she was innocent: who can say? Hindoos as well as -Mahommedans punish their wives in that way." - -"You mean that they used to do so in former times, previous to British -rule in India. But such a thing could not occur in our time." - -"It does not occur so often as it did; but it does occur, sometimes, -even in these days. How do you know what happens in the establishment -of a wealthy native? Let us look a little further into the wall. It -strikes me that we shall find some more of them." - -Orders were given accordingly to the workmen to remove with great care -the whole of the ledge, in short, to pull away its entire face. This -was done; and how shall I describe the awful spectacle then presented? -In that wall there were no less than _five_ bodies,--four besides that -already alluded to. One of the number was a young man, who from his -dress and the jewels on his finger-bones must have been a person of -high rank; perhaps the lover of one, or both, of the young women; for -he had been bricked up between two of them. The others were evidently -those of confidential servants; old women, for they had grey hair. -They possibly had been cognisant, or were supposed to be cognisant, of -whatever offence the others had been deemed guilty. - -The sun was now shining brightly on these ghastly remains, covered with -garments embroidered in gold and silver. The air had a speedy effect -on them, and, one by one, they fell; each forming a heap of bones, -hair, shrivelled skin, dust, jewels, and finery. The latter were now -gathered up, placed in a small basket, and sent to Lallah. Their value, -possibly, was upwards of a thousand pounds. How many years had passed -since that horrible sentence had been put into execution? Not less than -one hundred and seventy, or perhaps two hundred. - - - - -INDIAN SOCIETY. - - -Whilst I was at Agra, a distinguished military officer of high rank, -who had just been appointed as a member of the Council, passed through -the station on his way to the seat of government, Calcutta. It was -supposed that this general officer would, on the first vacancy, become -Deputy-Governor of Bengal; and of course the society of Agra was -resolved to do him honour. It would not do for anybody to hang back -on an occasion like this; and, for the nonce, both the civilians and -the military were of one mind, and actually met on an amicable and -pleasant footing, to talk the matter over, and to decide upon what -was to be done. After a friendly debate, which lasted for four hours, -it was resolved that Sir Gunter and Lady Gallopaway should be invited -to a ball and supper, and not to a dinner. It was further determined -that the entertainment should take place, not at Government-house -(that would be too Civil)--not at any mess-room (that would be too -Military)--but at a good-sized hall called the Metcalfe Institution, -this being perfectly neutral ground. My friend, the civilian with -whom I had been staying, had a perfect contempt for these local -squabbles--although he was really compelled to take a part therein; -and, after the meeting was over, he sat down and wrote a metrical -squib, ridiculing the whole affair, and sent it for publication to one -of the newspapers, the _Delhi Gazette_. For this squib--seeing that it -sneered at both the civilians and the military--I unfortunately got the -credit, and the consequence was, that, when I made my appearance at the -ball, several of the heads of the society who had formerly received -me with extreme cordiality, answered me only in monosyllables when I -addressed them. Indeed, I learnt afterwards, from my friend's wife, -that a meeting had actually been called to consider the propriety of -not inviting me, and that I had very narrowly escaped that punishment; -for had it not been for the vote of her husband my name would have been -omitted, as there were ten for and ten against me, when he held up his -hand in my favour. - -But to the ball. There were present some twenty civilians, all dressed -in black with white cravats; and each had brought with him his -wife, or a sister, or daughter. Of military men (all in full dress -uniform) there were about forty-five or fifty; and the ladies who -came with them may have numbered thirty. In all, say that there were -present--including visitors and stragglers like myself--one hundred -and forty. I was rather late, and, on entering the room, beheld one -of the oddest sights that I ever witnessed: all the black coats were -huddled together, and so were all the reds. They had been unanimous -only so far as giving the entertainment was concerned; and it seemed -to be distinctly understood by each party that there was to be no -mixing; and so the civilians formed quadrilles and danced with the -civil ladies, and the soldiers with the military ladies. Had there -been a royal regiment in Agra, there would have been three parties, -owing to the jealousy that existed formerly between the Queen's and -the Company's officers. Besides myself, there were two "interlopers -in the East" present at that ball. The one, a French gentleman; the -other, a German Baron. They, too, were travelling about in search of -the picturesque, and here they had it with a vengeance. The Frenchman -could not comprehend this exclusiveness on the part of the blacks; but -the German assured us that to him it was a very common sight, and to -be witnessed at every ball in every garrison town in his country. "But -there," said he, "the military look down on the civilians, while here, -it seems to me, that the civilians look down on the military. See, see! -See how disdainfully that old Mrs. Revenue Board scrutinizes the dress -of Mrs. Lieutenant-Colonel Damzè!" - -Sure enough such was the case. "But regard!" said the Frenchman; "how -angry is that Mrs. Sudder Adawlut, because that little Mrs. Infantry -(whose husband, I am told, is the younger son of a poor English lord) -is contemplating her _nez en l'air_. Truly this is a magnificent -spectacle! Is it always so, I wonder?" - -I was enabled, from experience, to inform him, that in almost every -large station--and at Agra especially--it universally occurs; but that -in small stations seldom or never. - -Here we were approached by Lieutenant-Colonel Damzè himself. After -exchanging a few words with the foreign gentlemen on either side of me, -he passed on, seemingly proud and happy at having had an opportunity of -slighting me in public, on account of the doggerel for which I had the -credit. - -"Mais, monsieur," said the Frenchman to me, "who, in wonder's name, -are all these Damzè gentlemen? There is one Damzè, colonel of such a -regiment; another Damzè, major in another corps. There is a Deputy -Commissary-General Damzè; there is a Mr. Damzè in the Indian navy; -another Damzè is a military secretary; some half dozen Damzès are, I -have perceived, on the staff of the Commander-in-Chief. Parbleu! C'est -Damzè--toujours Damzè! for here, by Heaven, I meet with still another -Damzè! Who _are_ all these Damzès?" - -I informed him that Damzè was the patronymic of a nobleman in power; -and with this explanation he was thoroughly enlightened, and appeared -to be perfectly satisfied. - -"Let us move up towards the General," said the German Baron, who had -been introduced to the old hero. "Let us go and say a few words to him." - -It was not easy to do this; hemmed in as was the General by those -who desired to make him remember them in the future. However, it was -managed at last; and, somehow or other, we three interlopers contrived -before long to monopolize his attention--we the only people in the -room to whom he could not be of any service--for there was nothing -that he could give, or get for us, if we had wanted his patronage. We, -rather maliciously--so far as the crowd was concerned--stood about -the distinguished old man and guarded him; and I have reason to know -that he was grateful to us for so doing. Towards the hour of twelve, -however, we had to stand back; for Mrs. Lieutenant-Colonel Damzè came -and sat upon the sofa on the left side of the General, and talked to -him in an animated but somewhat anxious manner, which became even -more anxious when Mrs. Revenue Board approached, and taking a seat -on the General's right (eyeing Mrs. Lieutenant-Colonel Damzè with -a somewhat haughty expression), congratulated the General on his -recent good fortune. At this advanced stage of the evening also, Lady -Gallopaway was flanked right and left by old Mr. Revenue Board and -Lieutenant-Colonel Damzè, C.B. The reader is requested to note that -these two letters--C.B.--were Damzè's by right; or, at all events, that -he had been recommended for the order, and that the recommendation had -been instantly attended to; albeit Damzè had never been within range -of an enemy's cannon in the whole course of his life. Lady Gallopaway -yawned. - -At length a gong sounded, and the band struck up that usual signal that -supper is ready, "O, the Roast Beef of Old England, O, the Old English -Roast Beef." - -The anxiety of the ladies who sat on either side of the General was now -at it height. They fanned themselves with fearful vigour; and we, the -three interlopers, fancied that we could hear the palpitation of their -hearts. Meanwhile their husbands, respectively, by their looks, evinced -a corresponding anxiety. Each stood ready to offer his arm to Lady -Gallopaway as soon as the General had made his election--of the lady -he would lead to the supper table. Each party was equally confident -but equally nervous, like the parties to a lawsuit. For weeks past -this question of precedence had been debated in Agra, and very warmly -debated--namely, whether Mrs. Revenue Board, of the Civil Service, or -Mrs. Lieutenant-Colonel Damzè, C.B., was entitled to the _pas_. Now was -the moment for a decision, or at all events an authority in support -of either position or argument. The old General (upon whom both Mr. -Revenue Board and Lieutenant-Colonel Damzè, C.B., had their anxious -eyes) rose, smiled, bowed to the ladies who had flanked him, left them, -and wandered about the ball-room, looking to the right and left, as -if searching for some one. Presently he stopped short before little -Mrs. Infantry, who was talking to a cornet of the 17th Light Cavalry. -The General offered her his arm. She took it very graciously, and was -led away. But before leaving the room she halted, turned round, and -stared very significantly at the two elderly ladies who were still -seated on the sofa, overwhelmed in surprise, horror, and indignation. -Infantry, who was only a lieutenant in his regiment, observing that -the General had recognised the social right of his wife, which she had -derived solely from him, instantly rushed up to Lady Gallopaway, and -offered her an arm (which she took), led her away in triumph, leaving -his own Colonel (Damzè) and old Mr. Revenue Board gasping and gaping at -each other in mutual disgust and consternation. Had a shell burst in -the building, had the powder magazine exploded and shattered all the -windows, the commotion could scarcely have been greater than it was at -that moment. No one could account for this extraordinary conduct, or -caprice, as it was termed, on the part of the old General. Damzè, who -had just been flattering him concerning his wonderful achievements, -now declared that "the old fool had become half-witted since eighteen -hundred and forty-seven," while Revenue Board, who a quarter of an hour -previously had, to the General's face, held forth on the unflinching -independence which had marked his character through life, now -protested--openly protested--that he had been a time-server throughout -his entire career, and had some object in thus truckling before the son -of an influential peer! The ladies on the sofa stared at each other; -now commiseratingly and in silence for at least two minutes, then -simultaneously ejaculated: "What _can_ it mean!" - -"I thought it would have been me," said Mrs. Revenue Board. - -"You?" said Mrs. Damzè. - -"Yes; why not? My husband is a civilian of twenty years' standing." - -"Is not my husband a Lieutenant-Colonel and a C.B.? If he were only a -Major and a C.B. he would take precedence of Mr. Revenue Board." - -"You are quite mistaken." - -"Indeed not. Do you suppose a C.B. goes for nothing?" - -"No; but----" - -Here Lieutenant-Colonel Damzè and Mr. Revenue Board, who had been -discussing the same question, but in a calmer spirit than their -wives, approached, and, making common cause against the upstart enemy -(Infantry and his wife), formed a quartette and went into the supper -room; where, to their intense mortification, they heard little Mrs. -Infantry talking loudly, on purpose to attract the notice of all -present. What was even more mortifying still, the old General was -paying her marked attention. - -The red party, that is to say, the military, were in very high -spirits; the black, the civilians, correspondingly depressed. The -quartette, consisting of Damzè and Revenue Board, and their wives, ate -voraciously, but evidently without appetite. They sipped their wine -with an absent formality, which was very entertaining to lookers-on, -who were in no way interested in the momentous question which was -preying on their very souls. - -"It shall not end here," said Damzè, moodily fixing his eyes on the -chandelier. - -"Not, indeed!" said Mr. Revenue Board. - -"I shall put my case to the Governor-General direct," said Damzè. "His -Lordship is a near connexion of mine." - -"I am perfectly aware of that," said Mr. Revenue Board; "but it is my -intention to submit my case to his Lordship through Mr. Bommerson, -the Lieutenant-Governor of these provinces, officially; and, if his -Lordship's opinion should be adverse, I shall have my appeal to -the Court of Directors, amongst whom, thank Heaven! I have several -relations and warm friends." - -"And you will write, I hope, my dear," said Mrs. Revenue Board, "to Sir -John Bobgrouse, who is the President of the Board of Control, and whose -secretary married your first cousin--recollect!" - -"_We_ can write, too," said Mrs. Lieutenant-Colonel Damzè. - -"You may write to anybody you please," said Mrs. Revenue Board, -defiantly and contemptuously; "but you will remember that the point -between us is this--that even if your husband, in consequence of having -got, no matter how, a C.B.ship, has the right to precede my husband, -a civilian of twenty years' standing--whether you have the right to -precede me? That is the question; and I hope, Revenue dear, you will -not fail to raise it." - -Reader, the question was submitted in all its bearings for the -consideration of the Most Noble the Governor-General of India, who, -declining to take upon himself so fearful a responsibility, referred -the matter to the Home Government. Leadenhall-street had something -to say to it, and so had the Board of Control. While the case was -pending, the newspapers in every part of India literally teemed with -letters on the subject, and their editors were invited to give their -opinions thereon. Only one of the number was weak enough to do this, -and bitterly did he repent of his rashness; for, having decided in -favour of the C.B. and of Mrs. C.B., he lost (so he confessed to me) no -less than six-and-twenty civilians (each of twenty years' standing) in -his subscription-list. For more than eighteen months this precedence -question formed a leading topic, not only in the public prints, but in -private circles. It became, in short, a perfect nuisance. At length the -decision of the Home Government came out to India; but, alas! they had -only half done their work. They had given C.B. the precedence over the -civilian of twenty years' standing, but had been silent about their -wives! So, the matter was "referred back." A clerk in the Private -Secretary's office told me that he was occupied for three hours in -copying only the Governor-General's minute on the Court's despatch, -which was a very lengthy one, and signed by the chairman for himself -and the other directors, whose names were given in full. He further -informed me that the whole of the documents connected with this weighty -affair would, if put into type, form a volume five times as bulky as -Sir William Napier's _Conquest of Scinde_! - -How the matter was settled eventually I do not know; for, when I left -India, the question had not been decided. On the great point, when it -was referred for a second time to the Home Authorities, there was a -difference of opinion between the Court of Directors and the Board of -Control, and a long correspondence ensued on the subject, between each -of these departments of the Indian Government and the Governor-General, -who was required to have the case laid before the Advocates-General -of the Supreme Courts at the various Presidencies. These gentlemen -differed one with the other in their views of the case, each alleging -that the point lay in a nutshell, and was as clear as possible. For all -I know to the contrary, it may be in the nutshell at this moment. Both -Lieutenant-Colonel Damzè and Mr. Revenue Board laid "cases" before the -Calcutta barristers, who pocketed their fees, and laconically expressed -their opinions respectively, that the parties who consulted them were -in the right--"there could be no doubt on the point," they said. Damzè -sent a copy of his case, and the opinion of his barrister thereon, -to Revenue Board, who rather triumphantly returned the compliment. -I regret to say, that this contest engendered in Agra a great deal -of what is called bad blood, and induced many ladies to descend to -very unseemly personalities. For instance, Mrs. Damzè one evening, at -the band-stand, told Mrs. Revenue Board, that when she (Mrs. R. B.) -returned to England, she would have no rank at all, as her husband was -not an esquire even--but a "mister" in his own country. To which Mrs. -Revenue Board replied:-- - -"And you, pray? Is not your husband in the Company's service?" - -"Yes," rejoined Mrs. Damzè; "but you forget the C.B.!" - -Let us now return to the Honourable Lieutenant Infantry. When that -officer came up, and led away Lady Gallopaway to supper, Damzè was -overheard to say, "I'll take the shine out of that young gentleman." -And, if taking the shine meant constantly bullying the subaltern, -Damzè certainly kept his word. And when the next hot weather came, and -the Lieutenant wished to accompany his sick wife to the Hills, Damzè, -when he forwarded the application for six months' leave of absence, -wrote privately to the Assistant Adjutant-General, and recommended -that it should not be granted. The honourable subaltern, however, -was rather too strong for his colonel, in the way of interest. -Presuming on the acquaintance which existed between his father and the -Commander-in-Chief, he wrote a letter to that functionary, and a few -days afterwards found himself in general orders. The wrath of Damzè -may be easily imagined, especially as he had boasted to several of -his officers of having put a spoke in the Lieutenant's wheel. And by -way of throwing salt upon the Colonel's wounds, the Lieutenant called -upon him, and, in the politest manner possible, inquired if there was -anything he could do for him at head-quarters. - - * * * * * - -While at Agra, a Bengalee Baboo called upon me. Judging from his -appearance, I should have guessed his age to be about fifty years; but -he was upwards of seventy. He spoke English with marvellous fluency -and accuracy, and could read and write the language as well and as -elegantly as any educated European. He was, perhaps, the cleverest -Hindoo whom I encountered during my sojourn in the East. His manners -were peculiarly courteous and winning, and there was an air of -penitence about the man, which, apart from his abilities, induced me -to treat him with kindness and consideration. His name was--let us -say--Nobinkissen. - -The history of Nobinkissen was simply this. He was a Brahmin of the -highest caste, and, at the age of eighteen, was a writer in the service -of the government, on a salary of ten rupees per month. He ingratiated -himself with every civilian under whom he served, and gradually rose, -step by step, until he became the Sheristadar, or head clerk, of a -circuit-judge of a court of appeal. In this office he acquired riches, -and was still adding to his store, when his official career was brought -prematurely to a close. - -I must here inform the reader that not one civilian in a hundred, -no matter what his rank or grade, can read and write Hindostanee or -Persian, although the majority of them have some colloquial knowledge -of both those languages. Yet, as a matter of course, they append their -signatures to every document of which, on hearing it read aloud to them -by their native officials, they approve. Their orders they dictate -orally; those orders are transcribed by the Sheristadar, who gives -them to a native writer to copy. This done, they are read aloud for -correction or approval, and then signed in English by the covenanted -civilian. Before leaving office every day, such civilian may have to -sign fifty, sixty, or a hundred documents; for the rule is, not to sign -each of them when read, but to sign them in a mass at the breaking-up -of the court. Here Nobinkissen invented his means of money making. -Whenever the judge gave a decree in any case of importance, he made a -counterpart of such decree, and when the signing time came, obtained, -without any sort of trouble or inquiry, the signature of the Sahib -and the seal of the Court to both documents. He was thus, to all -intents and purposes--or, at all events, for his own--in possession -of something tantamount to the fee-simple of the lands in dispute. He -could arm either the appellant or the respondent with the final decree -of the Court, under the hand and official seal of the judge. The only -question with him now was, which of the litigants would give the most -money, and to each, in private, and in the Sahib's name, he exhibited -the documents. The highest bidder, of course, gained the day, whereupon -Nobinkissen took the coin, handed over one of the decrees, and burnt -the other. - -It fell out that Nobinkissen was attacked with fever, and, in a state -bordering on delirium, he parted with, that is to say, sold, to both -respondent and appellant, a decree, under the hand and seal of the -judge, such decree arming the holder with the power to take possession -of a very large estate in Bengal. Each party, fearful of a disturbance, -which often occurs when possession of an estate is sought for, -applied to the magistrate of a district, under a certain regulation -of government, for assistance, in order to enable him to carry out -the judge's decree, which each, as a matter of course, produced. The -magistrate was naturally much perplexed, and made a reference to the -judge, who could only say he had signed but one decree. There was then -a report made to the government by the magistrate. An investigation -ensued, and the judge was, meanwhile, suspended, for great suspicion -lurked in the minds of many that he was not so innocent as he affected -to be. When Nobinkissen recovered from his sickness, and saw the -dilemma in which his superior, the judge, was placed, he made a clean -breast of it, and confessed that the guilt was his, and his alone. -Nobinkissen was tried, convicted, and sentenced to be imprisoned in -irons for the term of his natural life. For nine years he was in the -gaol at Alipore, near Calcutta. At the expiration of that period he -was called upon to furnish some information of which he was possessed, -in relation to certain public affairs. He was brought from the prison, -confronted with several officials, amongst whom was a member of the -council. His altered appearance, his emaciated form, his attitude of -despair, and the intelligence and readiness with which he responded to -the questions put to him, touched the hearts of those by whom he was -examined, and the member of council, who has been since a director of -the East India Company, spoke to the Governor-General, and eventually -obtained Nobinkissen's pardon and release. The Hindoos and Mussulmans -in India (like the Arabs) do not regard being guilty of a fraud or -theft as a disgrace. The degrading part of the business is, being -convicted, and Nobinkissen, on being set at liberty, could not face his -countrymen in Bengal, and therefore retired to the Upper Provinces, -where he lived in comparative obscurity, and in easy circumstances, for -he had not disgorged his ill-gotten gains. His wife had taken care of -them during his captivity. - -At the time that Nobinkissen called upon me, the government of India -were in considerable difficulty in respect to finance. A new loan -had been opened, but it did not fill, and the government had very -wisely determined upon closing it. Nobinkissen made this a topic of -conversation, and his views--albeit they came from a man who had been -convicted of a fraud--are, at the present time especially, entitled to -the very gravest consideration. - -"Ah, sir!" he remarked, "it is a pitiful thing that the government of a -great empire like this should ever be in pecuniary difficulties and put -to their wits' end for a few millions annually, in order to make the -receipts square with the expenditure." - -"But how can it be helped?" I asked. - -"Easily, sir," he replied. "Why not make it expedient to do away with -the perpetual settlement of Lord Cornwallis, and resettle the whole of -Bengal? That is by far the most fertile province in the East; but it -is taxed lighter than even these poor lands of the Upper Provinces. -Look at the Durbungah Rajah. Nearly the whole of Tirhoot, the garden of -India, belongs to him, and he does not pay into the government treasury -half a lac (five thousand pounds) per annum, while his collections -amount to upwards of twenty lacs. These are the men who get hold of -the money and bury it, and keep it from circulating." - -"But all zemindarees (lands) are not so profitable in Bengal?" - -"No; many are not worth holding--especially the smaller ones, although -the land is just as good, and just as well cultivated." - -"But how is that?" - -"They are so heavily taxed. You must know, sir, that in those days--the -days of Lord Cornwallis--the greatest frauds were committed, in respect -to the perpetual settlement. The natives who were about, and under, the -settlement officers all made immense fortunes, and the zemindars from -whom they took their bribes, have profited ever since to the cost of -the poorer zemindars, who could not or would not bribe, and to the cost -of the British government. It is a great mistake to suppose that the -whole of the landholders in Bengal would cry out against a resettlement -of that province. Only men holding vast tracts of country, at a -comparatively nominal rent, would cry out." - -"And tax the British government with a breach of faith?" - -"Yes. But what need the government care for that cry, especially when -its act is not only expedient, but would be just withal? In Bengal, all -the great zemindars are rich, very rich men. In these provinces, with -very, very few exceptions, they are poor, so that the whole of Upper -India would be glad to see the perpetual settlement done away with, and -the land resettled." - -"Why so?" - -"That is only human--and, certainly, Asiatic--nature. Few of us like -to behold our neighbours better off than ourselves; so that the cry -of faith-breaking would not meet with a response in this part of the -world." - -"Yes; but in Europe the cry would be too powerful to contend against. -The Exeter Hall orators and the spouters at the Court of Proprietors -would--" - -"Ah, sir! India should either be governed in India or in England. It is -the number of wheels in the government that clogs the movement of the -machine." - -"Very true." - -"But who are these men--these zemindars with whom you are required to -keep an implicit faith? Are they your friends? If so, why do they never -come forward to assist you in your difficulties? Did a single zemindar, -when, after the battle of Ferozeshah, the empire was shaking in the -balance, lift a finger to help the government of India? And, to-morrow, -if your rule were at stake, and dependent on their assistance, think -you they would render it? Think you they would furnish money if your -treasury was exhausted? Not one pice! Think you they would furnish -men to protect your stations denuded of troops? No! Although hundreds -of them can each turn out a thousand or two of followers, armed -with iron-bound bludgeons, swords, and shields, when they desire to -intimidate an European indigo-planter, or to fight a battle between -themselves about a boundary question. These are the men who, in your -greatest need, would remain neutral until, if it so happened, you were -brought to your last gasp, when, as one man, they would not fail to -rise and give you the final blow." - -"Do you believe that? I do not." - -"Sir, I know my own countrymen better than you do." - -"If such a state of affairs were to come about, and these zemindars -remained neutral, of course the cry of breaking faith would be absurd -in the extreme. Neutrality, in such a case, would be almost as bad as -hostility." - -[Nobinkissen's prophecy has been fulfilled to the letter. Our rule -has been at stake, in imminent peril, and not one of these men has -offered to assist us with men or money. The Rajahs of Durbungah and -Burdwan alone, to say nothing of the Newab of Moorshedabad, between -them could have furnished an army of, at the very least, five thousand -stalwart fighting-men, whereas they have looked upon our difficulties -in perfect apathy. It is from the coffers of men of this stamp that -large sums should be extracted annually towards keeping up a vast--an -overwhelming--European force in India. Faith with such men as these! -What claim have they to our faintest consideration! What right to -expect that we shall any longer forego the collection of several extra -millions annually--several extra millions which, to every intent and -purpose, is our just due?] - -"There is a line in Shakespeare, sir," Nobinkissen continued, "which -the government of India should adopt as its motto, and act up to -consistently-- - - 'Cæsar never does wrong without just cause.'" - -Our conversation was here interrupted by a noise in the road. I went to -the window, and observing a great crowd, inquired of one of my servants -who was standing in the verandah:-- - -"What is the matter?" - -"A bullock has fallen down, and they are trying to get him up--that is -all, Sahib," was the reply. - -I rushed to the spot, followed by Nobinkissen, and there beheld a -scene which in no other country would have been tolerated by the crowd -assembled. - -One of a pair of bullocks, drawing an over-laden cart, had from -weakness and fatigue, sank beneath the burden. The driver of the -animals (a Hindoo) had broken, by twisting it violently, the tail -of the poor beast, which was nothing but skin and bone, and was -covered with wounds from ill-treatment. Heavy blows and the tail -breaking having failed to make the jaded ox stand upon his legs, the -driver--heedless of my remonstrance--collected some straw and sticks -and lighted a fire all round him. The poor beast now struggled very -hard, but was unable to rise, and presently he resigned himself to be -scorched to death. - -"I always thought that the cow was a sacred animal with Hindoos?" said -I to Nobinkissen. - -"Yes," said he. - -"And here is a Hindoo who works one of his gods till he drops down with -sheer fatigue, and then cruelly puts him to death!" - -"Yes, that often happens," said Nobinkissen, smiling. - -"Then, what an absurdity and inconsistency for the Hindoos at Benares, -and other holy places, to make such a noise if an European only strikes -a sacred animal with a whip! Why, it was only the other day that a mob -collected around the house of the magistrate and set the authorities at -defiance: all because the magistrate had ordered that one of the bulls -which crowd the streets should be shut up, on the ground that he had -gored several people." - -"That is the doing of the Brahmins, who incite the people to such acts; -and every concession on the part of the government leads those Brahmins -to believe that they have great power, and leads the people also to -believe it. If a Mahommedan finds one of those bulls in the way, and -gives him a thrashing with a thick stick, or probes him in the side -with a sword, the Brahmins say nothing, nor do the people of Benares." - -"Why is that?" - -"Because it would not be worth while. The strife would be profitless; -for, you see, sir, the Mahommedans are not the rulers of this country, -but the Sahibs are; and hence the jealousy with which they are watched. -In time, the Government of India will see the necessity of forbidding -Hindoo festivals in the public streets--abolishing them--just as -Suttee was abolished. It is only the dissolute rich and the rabble who -take any delight in these festivals, many of which are indecent and -disgusting. Sensible and respectable Hindoos take no part in them; on -the contrary, they avoid them, and think them a nuisance. Hindooism -will never become extinct, so long as this world lasts; but the British -Government has the power of doing away with those obnoxious observances -in the public thoroughfares, which only disfigure the religion." - -"Well, in that case, you would have to do away with the Mahommedan -festivals?" - -"Most certainly--in the public streets. In private, the Mahommedans -as well as the Hindoos might be permitted to keep their festivals in -whatever way they thought proper. Do you suppose that the Mahommedans, -when in power, suffered the Hindoos to block up the streets continually -with their processions, as they do now? Think you that they entertained -the same consideration for the bulls and the monkeys at Benares as the -British now entertain? And when, in turn, the Mahrattas overran this -part of the country, think you that Agra was ever deafened, as it now -is, with the din of the Buckree Ede and the Mohurrum?" - -"Perhaps not. But then you see, Nobinkissen, we are a tolerant people, -and wish to convince both creeds that we have no desire to interfere -with their religious prejudices in any way whatsoever." - -"Yes; but then you are inconsistent, and the consequence is, that you -not only get the credit of being insincere, but are imposed upon to the -utmost." - -"How, inconsistent!" - -"Why, you declare that you have no desire to interfere with the -religious prejudices of the Hindoo and the Mahommedan; but you, -nevertheless, encourage missionary gentlemen to go from station to -station to preach in the open air concerning the superiority of your -religion over all others. Believe me, sir, this does a great deal of -harm." - -"Ah! but we make converts!" - -"How many do you suppose?" - -"I cannot say." - -"I can. Take India from one end to the other, and you make, annually, -one out of fifty thousand." - -"No more?" - -"No more, sir! That is the result of preaching in the open air, all -over the country, and the distribution of thousands and hundreds of -thousands of tracts printed in the Hindostanee and Bengalee languages. - -"Well, that is something, Nobinkissen." - -"And of what class of people are your converts?" - -"Respectable men of all classes, I suppose." - -"The dregs of both Hindoos and Mussulmans. The most debased and -degraded of Indians--men who only assume Christianity in the hope of -temporal advantage and preferment--and who fling aside their newly -put-on faith, and laugh and scoff at your credulity the moment they -find their hope frustrated. I could give you at least one hundred -instances; but one will suffice. Not long ago a Mussulman, named Ally -Khan, was converted by Mr. Jones, a missionary in Calcutta, and, -shortly after his conversion, obtained an appointment with a salary of -one hundred rupees a month, in the Baptist Missionary Society. Here -he contrived to embezzle sixteen hundred rupees, for which offence he -was indicted in the Supreme Court, found guilty, and sentenced to a -year's imprisonment in the Calcutta gaol. On hearing the sentence he -exclaimed: 'In the name of the devil, is this the reward of renouncing -my religion? Farewell, Christianity! From this hour I am a Moslem -again!' - -"Another very flagrant case occurred in this very station. A civilian -took into his service a recently converted Hindoo, as a sirdar-bearer. -The fellow had charge of a money-bag, and ran off with it. And where -and how do you suppose he was apprehended? At Hurdwar, taking an active -part in the Hoolee Festival! The Roman Catholic priests have long -since left off asking the natives of India to become Christians. Those -who voluntarily present themselves, are, after a strict examination, -and a due warning that they must hope for no temporal advantage, -admitted into the Church." - -"And do they have any applications?" - -"Very very few, indeed; but those whom they admit do, really and truly, -become Christians." - -These last words of Nobinkissen were scarcely pronounced, when a palkee -was brought up to my door, and out of it stepped a Roman Catholic -priest--an Italian gentleman, a Jesuit--whom I had met a few evenings -previously at the house of a mutual friend. Nobinkissen, who appeared -to know the reverend father intimately, related to him the substance of -the conversation we had just held, or rather the latter part thereof, -and the priest corroborated every allegation that Nobinkissen had made. - -"Yea," he added, "we now devote our attention, exclusively, to the -spiritual wants of the white man who requires our aid--convinced, as we -are, of the hopelessness of the task of converting the Hindoo and the -Mussulman to Christianity." And, in addition to the instances of false -converts afforded by Nobinkissen, he did not scruple to detail several -others of an equally atrocious character and complexion. - - - - -THE UPPER PROVINCES. - - -Having seen Agra, its edifices, ruins, society, European and native, -and having visited Secundra, Futteypore, Sickri, and Muttra, I -journeyed upwards to Delhi, where I was received by Mr. Joseph Skinner, -the eldest son of the late Colonel Skinner, renowned as the founder and -commandant of the famous Skinner's Horse. Mr. Joseph Skinner's house -was, at all times, open to all travellers. He was without exception the -most hospitable man that I ever met in any part of the world. At his -board were to be met daily, either at luncheon or at dinner, civilians -and military men of every rank and grade in the service, as well as -native gentlemen of position in India--Hindoos and Mahommedans. Even -the young princes, sons of the King of Delhi and descendants of the -Great Moghul, used frequently to honour Mr. Skinner with their company. -The title by which they were usually greeted was Sahiban-i-Alum, -signifying "Lords of the World." But the most remarkable native that -I ever met at Mr. Skinner's hospitable board was the late Maharajah -Hindoo-Rao, a little, fat, round Mahratta chieftain, with small -twinkling eyes, and a countenance replete with fun and quiet humour. -He was a pensioner of the Gwalior State, and drew therefrom twelve -thousand pounds a year, which was guaranteed to him by the British -Government. Large as was this income, Hindoo-Rao contrived annually -to spend more than double the amount, trusting continually to fate -to relieve him from his pressing pecuniary difficulties; not that he -ever suffered them to prey upon his mind; on the contrary, he made -them a subject of jocularity. In addition to being as hospitable as -his friend Mr. Skinner, Hindoo-Rao was addicted to field sports on a -large scale, and kept up a very large establishment for the purpose of -gratifying this propensity. He was considered--and perhaps justly, by -those qualified to form an opinion--the best shot in all India, and -with his rifle he had destroyed several hundreds (some say thousands) -of tigers. Hindoo-Rao had another very expensive hobby. He desired -to possess himself of the Philosopher's Stone, by which he might -transmute metals--a mode by which he proposed to improve the state -of his finances and eventually pay his debts. On all other points, -Hindoo-Rao was sufficiently sensible and shrewd, but on this point he -was childish, if not insane. Thousands and thousands of pounds were -squandered by him in this absurd pursuit, for he was constantly the -victim of juggling forgers, swindlers, and rogues. His house was on -a hill immediately overhanging Delhi, and it has recently been made -famous throughout Europe as the position of one of our batteries. -Night after night in that house would furnaces blaze, while some -impostor, who pretended to have the secret, was at work with his -chemicals. - -I ought to mention that this Mahratta chief was a near relation of the -royal family of Gwalior, and that he had been banished and pensioned -for having been engaged in some intrigues against the Gwalior State. - -The Maharajah Hindoo-Rao was a great gourmand, and those who partook -of his dinners never forgot them. It was not often that the old chief -could be induced to discuss politics, but on the occasion of the 41st -Regiment of Infantry having mutinied at Delhi--a mutiny which, by the -way, was hushed up--I heard him very energetically exclaim: "Ah! if you -go on humouring your native soldiers in this way, they will never be -satisfied until they govern the country!" - -The late Sir Charles James Napier visited Delhi while I was there. He -came, not as ordinary commanders-in-chief usually come, with a large -suite and an escort covering a square mile of encamping ground, but -attended only by two aides-de-camp and a military secretary. It was -on the morning of his Excellency's arrival that the mutiny in the -41st Regiment, to which I have just alluded, occurred. Sir Charles -reviewed the regiments then quartered at Delhi, including the 41st, -and complimented them _en masse_! The review over, Hindoo-Rao, who was -a great horseman, rode up to the commander-in-chief on his spirited -charger, and expressed the happiness it afforded him to see an officer -who had so distinguished himself in the military annals of his country. -Sir Charles appeared much pleased with the open, frank manner and -independent bearing of the old Mahratta chieftain, and accepted, on -behalf of himself and his staff, an invitation to dine with him that -evening. A large number of gentlemen, European and native, assembled -to meet his Excellency; and when Sir Charles returned thanks for the -honour that had been paid to him in drinking his health, he made -allusion to the pleasure that it afforded him in seeing Christians, -Hindoos, and Mussulmen on such good terms, and living together in such -amity and concord. What a change since that evening, which to me seems -but as yesterday! Several of our party, on that occasion, have become -chiefs of the recent rebellion, and were accessory to the massacre of -English gentlemen and ladies. - -Hindoo-Rao died in eighteen hundred and fifty-four. His funeral was -thus described to me by a friend who witnessed it: "They dressed up the -old gentleman's corpse in his most magnificent costume, covered his -arms with jewelled bracelets of gold, with costly necklaces of pearls -and diamonds hanging down to his waist, placed him in a chair of state, -sat him bolt upright--just as he used to sit when alive--and thus, -attended by his relations, friends, and suite he was carried through -Delhi to the banks of the Jumna, where the body was burnt with the -usual rites, and the ashes thrown into the river." - -Mr. Skinner also is dead. He died in eighteen hundred and fifty-five. -When I think of him I am rejoiced that he did not survive to be -brutally massacred, as his brothers have been; or to see his house -(near the Cashmere Gate) which was always the scene of good-fellowship -and good-feeling, turned into a battery by the rebels; or the church, -built by his father, burned and destroyed by the people who had for -years and years paid, or affected to pay, unqualified respect and -devotion to his family. - -I made the acquaintance of another personage at Delhi, for whom I -had a very great liking and regard. This was Mirza Futteh Allee Shah -Bahadoor, the heir apparent to the throne of Delhi. He was a very -amiable and intelligent prince, and had an extraordinary thirst for -knowledge. Amongst other things that he was curious to learn was the -history of steam power, railroads, and the electric telegraph. For -hours together he would encourage me--nay, importune me, to talk with -him on these matters. _Apropos_ of this prince and his family--while -I was at Delhi the festival of the Eed came to pass, and there was an -omen which was variously interpreted. The King, in other words the -Great Moghul, sacrifices a camel. The King kills (or used to kill) -the camel with his own hand, by driving a spear into the breast of -the animal. On the occasion to which I now refer, the King, being -extremely old and feeble, was assisted by two attendants, and, in -attempting to drive the spear, it broke in two pieces. That was the -omen. The friends of Mirza Futteh Allee Shah Bahadoor interpreted -it as prognosticating the King's death and the speedy succession -of the heir apparent to the throne. Others, however, said that it -prognosticated the downfall of the King and of his throne for ever. -Mirza died about a year ago of an attack of cholera; and it may not be -premature perhaps to say that the throne of the Great Moghul will not -in future be recognised. There was another curious prophecy connected -with the throne of Delhi, and current for many years in the Punjab. It -was implicitly believed that the Sikh soldiery would one day or other, -and before long, sack Delhi; and, in eighteen hundred and forty-five, -when the Sikh army crossed our frontier, Delhi was its destination. -This prophecy has to some extent been fulfilled. The Sikh soldiers -have tasted of the plunder of Delhi. But who could ever have dreamed -that their entry into the city of the Great Moghul would be in company -with British soldiers? It is as though, and quite as incredible as -if, some one had predicted in eighteen hundred and sixteen that, in -eighteen hundred and fifty-five, the Queen of England, a grand-daughter -of George III., would be a guest at the Tuileries of an Emperor of the -French, and a nephew of Napoleon Bonaparte; and that such Queen would -be led upon the arm of such Emperor to visit the tomb of the Prisoner -of St. Helena. - -After leaving Delhi I crossed over to Meerut, which was then, as it -always has been since its formation, the favourite station in the Upper -Provinces of India. In eighteen hundred and forty-six and forty-seven -there were as many as ten thousand troops quartered at Meerut, -including two regiments of British foot, a regiment of dragoons, and -three troops of horse (European) artillery. Until lately, it has always -been deemed prudent to keep a very large European force at Meerut in -order to keep Delhi (only forty miles distant) in check; for it was -stipulated in one of our treaties with the family of the Moghuls, that -no British infantry or cavalry, or other European troops, should ever -be quartered in the Imperial City or its immediate vicinity. When, -however, the Punjab was annexed, the European force at Meerut was -lessened to meet the exigencies of the times; and of late Meerut has -not been, in respect to the number of European troops, the station that -it was formerly. - -There are no ancient buildings to be seen at Meerut. All is of European -structure. The church, the barracks, the court-houses, the treasury, -the theatre, the bungalows of the civilians and military officers, -as well as those of the merchants and "others," are all of brick and -mortar, lath and plaster; and they were for the most part thatched, so -that the Sepoys had very little trouble in setting fire to them. The -reason why houses are commonly thatched instead of tiled and shingled, -is that the thatch keeps the interior of the dwelling so very much -cooler. - -While at Meerut I was a guest of the editor of the journal which used -to issue from that station, and as my stay extended over six weeks, -during which period I frequently assisted the editor in his work, I -gained some knowledge of the practical working of the press in the -Upper Provinces. I am authorized to make any use I please of this -knowledge. - -In the first place I may mention that the order of Government -forbidding civilians or military men corresponding with the press, was, -to every intent and purpose, a perfect farce and a dead letter. On the -staff of the Meerut paper were several gentlemen belonging to each -branch of the service. These gentlemen not only wrote, but some of them -wrote for pay--for so much per column; while the correspondence columns -were filled with letters from covenanted civilians or commissioned -officers, judges, and magistrates, and their subordinates; brigadiers, -colonels, majors, captains, and subalterns contributed anonymously, -whenever the spirit moved them. Ay! and frequently the members of the -staff of the Governor-General and of the Commander-in-Chief would not -only send items of news, but comments thereon; and I have reason to -know that this practice was continued up to the date of the recent -outbreak, and is still continued. By the way, the late Major Thomas -was virtually the editor of the _Mofussilite_ at Agra at the time he -received his death wound in the field of battle. The Delhi newspaper -was also written for by civilians and military men of all grades. - -It was the press that introduced to the notice of the Government many -clever and able men, who had no other interest to help them. I could -mention scores of instances, but two will suffice. Herbert Benjamin -Edwardes, of the Bengal Fusiliers, the "Brahminee Bull" of the _Delhi -Gazette_, and Mr. Campbell, of the Civil Service, who was "given up" -to Lord Dalhousie as the "Delator" of the _Mofussilite_, and promoted -to an office of great responsibility. In the last-mentioned paper -there also appeared, in eighteen hundred and forty-seven, forty-eight, -and forty nine, a series of leading articles on military reform and -other matters, some of which attracted the notice of Sir Charles -Napier. They came from the pen of General (then Major) Mansfield, of -the Fifty-third Foot, and at present chief of the staff of Sir Colin -Campbell. It was not to silence these men, who displayed their ability -in the newspapers, that they were placed in staff employ, or promoted. -On the contrary, I know that they were expected--and in some instances -requested--to use their pens in defence of certain Government measures; -and that, on several occasions, they did vigorous battle with their -former literary chief, the editor of the paper in which they first made -their appearance in print. I remember that on one occasion the editor, -on being beaten in an argument, headed his admission of the fact with -the following lines:-- - - Keen are our pangs; but keener far to feel - We nursed the pinion that impels the steel. - -There are no newsmen in the Upper Provinces of India, nor, indeed, -in any of the Presidencies. Whoever wishes to take a journal must -subscribe for a certain period--year or half-year. The rates for the -_Mofussilite_, or _Delhi Gazette_, were three pounds twelve shillings -per annum, or two pounds per six months. The net profits of both these -papers, in eighteen hundred and forty-nine and fifty, were upwards -of five thousand pounds per annum. With the exception of the _Friend -in India_, when under the control of its original proprietor, these -journals of the North-West were by far the most remunerative of any in -the East. - -There was a native newspaper published at Meerut, called the -_Jam-i-Jumsheed_, which title signifies a bowl or glass, into which if -you look, you will see what transpires in the whole world. The history -of this paper is very curious. - -It was founded without the knowledge, privity, or consent of the -conductor of the European journal, by the head pressman, of his -establishment, who was a Brahmin. The editor of this native print, -which was lithographed in the Oordoo language, was the moonshee of the -English press at Meerut. He was well skilled in English, and his chief -employment was translating the native correspondence. Having constant -access to the desks of the compositors, this press moonshee acquired -a knowledge of every item of news furnished by European as well as -native correspondents, and of this knowledge he failed not to avail -himself. This, however, was but a small evil, comparatively. Unknown -to the conductor of the Meerut paper, a much greater evil arose from -the publication of the native print. Availing himself of such sources -of information, its editor seized the views of his employer--views -intended only for European eyes, and gave his own version of them -to his readers in the Hindoostanee language; and, what was equally -mischievous, he published quantities of matter which the conductor -of the Meerut paper thought proper to suppress after it was set up -in type. These were the morsels in which the native editor took most -delight. A single instance will suffice. The following appeared in the -leading columns of the _Jam-i-Jumsheed_, the facts having been kept out -of the columns of the Meerut paper, at the instance of the friends of -the gentleman who was guilty of the indiscretion:- - - An act of retributive justice has just been committed by the - worthy magistrate of this district. It was supposed that an - escaped convict from the jail was secreted in a village about - four miles distant from this cantonment. In the dead of the - night, the magistrate, at the head of a large body of police, - visited the village, aroused the inhabitants from their - slumbers, and demanded the culprit. The villagers denied any - knowledge of him. The magistrate, with characteristic kindness - and consideration, gave them half-an-hour to make up their - minds. At the expiration of that time, as the culprit was not - produced, he set fire to the village. In those flames, which - illuminated the country for miles round, thirteen lives were - sacrificed; namely, those of three men, four women, and six - children. One of the unfortunate women was in labour at the - time. Some malicious natives in the neighbourhood of Meerut - give out that the Sahib has been notoriously mad for several - years past. Let us hope, however, that the Lieutenant-Governor - will not heed such insinuations, but after complimenting the - magistrate on his vigour and his zeal, appoint him to the first - judgeship that may become vacant. No less than six hundred - persons are, by this fire, rendered homeless beggars. But what - of that? Must justice be obstructed? - - It remains for us to add that the escaped convict of whom - the magistrate was in search, has been in Oude for the past - month, and that no notice of this affair will appear in any of - the papers printed in English and edited by the Sahib Logue. - Those gentlemen are far too modest to make known the manifest - blessings which arise out of British rule in India. - -For upwards of a year and a-half the native paper went on filching -news, and writing in the above strain. At length the conductor of the -Meerut journal was furnished with some information which led to his -discharging his employées, the head pressman and the moonshee, and -breaking up their journal, the _Jam-i-Jumsheed_. And more than this -was done. The danger of permitting native newspapers to be published -without any sort of supervision was elaborately, and from time to time -dwelt upon by the English editor, and at length the Government was -moved to call for a return of the journals printed in the Hindoostanee -language in the Upper Provinces of India, and for an account of the -number of copies that each issued. With this return and account the -Government was well satisfied; first, because the aggregate circulation -was so ridiculously small (comparatively), that it was quite clear that -the native press had no power or influence; and, secondly, that the -tone of the best conducted and most respectable journals of the native -press were loud in their praises of British rule, and firm supporters -of the Government. It was overlooked with reference to the first point, -that in no country, and in India especially, is the actual circulation -of a newspaper any criterion of the number of persons acquainted with -its contents, its chief items of intelligence, and its sentiments on -the most important questions of the day. Let us take for example, the -greatest paper in the world--the _Times_. Compare the number of copies -that are struck off daily with the number of hands into which that -paper passes, the number of eyes that read it, and the number of ears -that listen to hear it read. As to the second point, the praise of the -Government of India, it was laughable to hear it mentioned, albeit the -subject was of so serious a character. That praise was bestowed very -much in the same spirit that Jack Wilkes is said to have conveyed a -serious warning, with a humorous grin, to an election mob--"I hear -that it is your intention, gentlemen, to take that person (there!) -who is interrupting me, place him under that pump, and duck him! Now, -if you should do so, no matter how much it may be for his own good, -you will--I give you this emphatic warning--incur my most serious -displeasure, gentlemen!" They (the native editors) used to wrap up the -most bitter irony in the most complimentary phrases, and frequently -their allusions, if viewed abstractedly, were both humorous and witty. -A case in point. The late Lieutenant-Governor of the North-Western -Provinces, a few years ago, presided at an examination of the students -of a Government public school. Amongst other questions which his honour -put to the boys of the first class was this--"How does the world go -round?" The head boy, a very intelligent Hindoo, gave an admirable -reply--spoke, as the saying is, like a book. The editor of a native -paper, in a notice of the examination, predicted that this boy would -come to a bad end for giving such an answer to the Lieutenant-Governor -of the North-West Provinces. "He ought," said the native editor, "when -so questioned by so potent a ruler, as to the cause of the world's -going round, to have flung science into the gutter, and, having assumed -the most cringing attitude imaginable, he should have placed his hands -together, and then have responded meekly, 'By your honour's grace, -favour, and kindness, does this planet revolve upon its axis.'" This -same editor once wrote a notice of a ball given by the officers of -the Horse Artillery mess at Meerut to the ladies of the Twenty-ninth -Foot, on the occasion of that last-mentioned and distinguished regiment -coming to the station. When translated, literally, to an Englishman -this notice would seem the most flattering account possible; but, if -such Englishman took it in the sense in which Asiatics understood and -comprehended it, he would, without any sort of doubt, have admitted -that it was the most extraordinary and ingenious admixture of satire -and obscenity that ever was printed and published! - -The same editor, during the second Sikh campaign, burlesqued the -despatches of Lord Gough; but so cleverly, that they were taken by -English people, who heard them translated, as genuine productions. This -was the man who never lost an opportunity of bringing British rule in -India into disgrace, ridicule, and contempt amongst his countrymen, and -who, eventually, by producing his writings, and having them translated -literally, succeeded in obtaining an appointment under the Government -worth one hundred and fifty rupees per mensem! The great article -on which his good fortune was based, was one descriptive of Lord -Dalhousie, on the back of an elephant, proceeding to a spot appointed -as the place of an interview between his Lordship and the late -Maharajah Goolab Singh. Neither the London nor the Paris _Charivari_ -ever surpassed this squib, so far as its spirit of ridicule was -concerned, while in point of mischief those European journals of fun -would never have dreamed of going the lengths of the Asiatic writer. -"What became of this native editor?" may be reasonably asked. I hear -that he is now aide-de-camp and military secretary to Bahadoor Khan, -the rebel, who is at the head of a considerable army, and, according to -the latest accounts, in possession of the entire Bareilly district. He -(the native editor) is a Mahommedan, of very ancient and good family; -he has an extremely handsome person and plausible manners, and should -I again wander in India, it will not at all surprise me to find him -in the service of the British Government, and filling some office of -considerable dignity and emolument. - -I have incidentally spoken of the theatre at Meerut. It was a building -about the size of the Adelphi Theatre, and was built by subscription, -some twenty-five years ago. The performers were, of course, amateurs, -officers in the civil and military services, and now and then an -interloper, possessed of histrionic abilities. The ladies were those -young gentlemen who could be best made up to imitate the gentler sex. -The scene-painters, scene-shifters, prompters, and so on, were men -belonging to the various European corps quartered in the station, -men who had been about, or connected with, London theatres, and who -understood their business thoroughly. On an average, there was a -performance once a fortnight. Tragedy was seldom or never attempted; -nothing but standard comedies and approved farces. It pains me to -think of the last performance I witnessed on the Meerut boards; -for, with the exception of myself and another gentleman, every one -who had a character assigned to him is now numbered with the dead. -The play was _The Lady of Lyons_. Claude Melnotte was an officer in -the Governor-General's Body-guard; his height was under five feet, -and his weight exactly eight stone. Pauline was the magistrate of -Bolund-Shahur, who was six feet three, and weighed twenty-one stone and -some pounds. In short, Claude was about the smallest, and Pauline about -the biggest man, in British India. These two died of natural causes -within the last three years. The rest have all been massacred or killed -in action. Some perished at Cawnpore, and other stations, and some have -fallen before Delhi and before Lucknow. And, alas! amongst the audience -of that night, how many have since been prematurely despatched from -this world--men, women, and children! - -There are some matters connected with theatricals in India, in the -Upper Provinces, which would strike any gentleman or lady fresh from -Europe as very odd. Huge punkahs are suspended from the ceiling, and -pulled by natives during the performance. Without the punkahs the -heat in the house would be unbearable. Then, there are no boxes, and -there is no pit. One part of the house, that nearest to the stage, is -set apart for the officers civil and military, and their wives and -families. The rest of the house is generally filled by non-commissioned -officers and private soldiers. As a matter of course, the greatest -order prevails throughout the play, which is usually produced "under -the patronage of the officer commanding the station and his lady." The -actors are never hissed; but the applause, in which the men always -join, is loud, long, frequent, and encouraging. - -In most of the large stations, where European troops are -quartered--such stations as Meerut, Agra, Umballah, Cawnpore, -Lahore--the non-commissioned officers and men of the regiments get -up theatrical performances, which are attended by the society, And -very creditably, too, do they perform. I have seen a sergeant of the -8th Foot (Colonel Greathead's regiment) play, at Agra, the character -of Doctor O'Toole, in _The Irish Tutor_, in a style and with a racy -humour which reminded me more of the late Mr. Power than any actor -on the metropolitan or provincial boards in England ever did. And at -Umballah, I have seen a corporal of the Third Dragoons act the part -of _The Stranger_ in a way that moved an audience, "unused, albeit to -the melting mood," in the literal sense of the phrase, to involuntary -tears. But by far the best actor (I am speaking of non-professionals) -that I ever listened to, considering the range of characters that he -played, was a private in the 9th Lancers. I would have gone night -after night, to see him in tragedy, comedy, or farce; or even to hear -him sing a sentimental or a comic song. He was a younger brother of -an intelligent, influential, rich, and deservedly respected London -tradesman, whose name is known in every quarter of the world where -the English language is spoken. It behoves me to say that these three -men (who, by the way, are all dead) were possessed of great general -ability, and had, respectively, received a good education. - -It is not for a wanderer and an interloper like myself to make any -suggestions to an enlightened (I use the word advisedly) Government; -but I do hope that when order is restored throughout our Eastern -dominions, when the affairs of the country are a matter of local -consideration, the health, comfort, and recreation of the British -soldier in those hot plains will command more attention than has -hitherto been bestowed upon them. I hope to see barracks in which the -men can live in comparative comfort--barracks lofty and spacious, and -fitted with punkahs, and other conveniences such as are required for -the climate, and such as one always finds in the abodes of officers and -gentlemen. I hope to see separate sleeping apartments for the married -couples, and separate sleeping apartments for the mass of children -above seven and eight years of age. I hope never again to see men, -women, young girls, and boys, and infant children, so huddled together -that those who escaped demoralization ought to have been exhibited as -curiosities of the human species. I hope never again to behold white -children, girls of thirteen years of age, the offspring of British -soldiers, married, in order that they might remain in the regiment. - -"Surely," I once remarked to the Colonel of a Royal regiment in India, -who made some remarks on the painful topic last alluded to--"Surely -this might be obviated?" - -"Yes, my good sir," was his reply. "But it would cost this Government -an outlay of a few thousands of rupees. A little while ago I had a -battle with the Government. I insisted on having punkahs hung up in -the barracks, and I spoke in a tone so decided that even the frowsy -military board--composed of several very old and feeble Company's -officers of the last century--was frightened into something like -activity. Well, sir, the punkahs were suspended, and I fancied that I -had gained an immense triumph; but I was very much mistaken. It was a -case of 'There are your punkahs, and now let your men pull them, or -employ the natives to do so!' So that the punkahs, after all, instead -of promoting a current of fresh air, impeded it, and served only as -perches for the flies, and cobweb-booms for the spiders. The idea of -the poor men paying for punkah coolies!" - -"What would it cost to punkah the whole regiment during the hot -season?" I asked. - -"I can tell you exactly," said the colonel: "for I have made a correct -estimate. The cost for the five hot months would be under three hundred -pounds; and by laying out this sum the Government would save some three -thousand or four thousand pounds a-year, at the very least." - -"How so?" - -"Many men cannot bear the heat of these barrack rooms, crowded as they -are, and left without punkahs. The consequence is, that they become -ill, go into hospital and die there, or spend the greater part of their -time there. I should say that if the men had better accommodation, -and the same means as _we officers_ have of keeping their apartments -cool, we should save in every regiment fifty lives annually. Now, -every recruit who comes from home and joins a regiment in the Upper -Provinces, to fill up a death or casualty in the ranks, costs the -Indian Government a hundred and ten pounds sterling. I have pointed all -this out; but it is of no use." - -"I would report it to the Horse Guards," said I. - -"I did so, two years ago." - -"And what did the Horse Guards say in reply to your statements?" - -"Precisely what the learned world said of poor George Primrose's -paradoxes--they said nothing. They treated them with dignified silence, -and perhaps contempt. However, I did not stop there. I went further." - -"You addressed the Throne, or Prince Albert?" - -"No; I did not go so far as that. We had just got the Albert hat out, -and after a careful examination of it, I came to the conclusion that -his Royal Highness would hardly be disposed to give much ear to my -complaint touching the discomfort of the British troops in India. But -I wrote to an elder brother of mine, who represents a borough in -Parliament, and I begged of him to bring under the notice of the House -of Commons the condition of the British soldier in India, and move for -a report of the officers in command of the various regiments doing duty -in this country." - -"And he did so, I hope?" - -"Not he. He wrote to me to say that he had never spoken in the House, -and never intended doing so, as he had not the faintest ambition to -become a public orator; but that he had shown my letter to several -friends of his (members of Parliament), who would only be too glad of -an opportunity of bringing themselves into notice; and that they, one -and all, blew upon it, remarking that the condition of the British -soldier in any part of the world was a frightful bore; but that the -condition of the British soldier in the East was a bore utterly beyond -toleration. 'My dear George,' (he went on to say to me), 'your story -would only be received with an ironical hear, hear! followed by a -series of coughs, as though the subject had given the House a sudden -chill and a very bad cold. Even that garrulous goose, Jamsey, to whom -(in despair, and in order to oblige you) I showed your letter--even -Jamsey, who is always ready to talk for hours about everything or -anybody, shrugged his shoulders, shook his head, sighed, lifted up his -hands, groaned, _It won't do_, and left me. Find out some indigo-planter -who has been, or is supposed to be, guilty of some sort of oppression -towards a sable cultivator of the soil, and we will pretty soon grind -his bones to make our bread, my boy; but, for Heaven's sake, and the -sake of the House of Commons, don't inflict upon us your British -soldiers." - -To leave the colonel, and express my further hopes--I hope to see -in every large station throughout India two Christian churches -erected--one for the Protestants and another for the Roman Catholics. -Both erected at the expense of the Government. I hope to see, also, -in every large station, a library to which every soldier, at stated -hours, shall have access. I hope to see soldiers' gardens--such as -the late Sir Henry Lawrence recommended--in which the men may, when -they feel disposed, work, or amuse themselves in the cold season. I -hope to see a theatre in every large station built and kept in repair, -not by subscription from the poor men, but at the cost of the State. -I hope, in fact to see the British soldier in the East--not petted, -pampered, and made a fuss of, but made as sensibly comfortable as the -climate in which he serves will admit of his being made. I hope, from -the bottom of my heart, never to see brave men put into such a barrack -as that at Loodianah, which fell in upon, and buried in its ruins, -the remnant of her Majesty's 50th Regiment of Foot: one of the most -gallant regiments in the Army List. They went into the field, during -the first Sikh campaign, nine hundred strong. Nine hundred bright -bayonets glittered in the sun as they marched away to give the foe (in -the words of Lord Gough) "a taste of cold stale." They were at Moodkee, -Ferozeshah, Aliwal, and Sobraon. Out of that nine hundred, only three -hundred returned to quarters in March, eighteen hundred and forty-six. -In three months, six hundred had fallen in battle! The campaign over, -they were quartered at Loodianah, and placed in barracks which had -been frequently reported rotten, unsound, and dangerous. But of this -report--though forwarded by the Commander-in-chief--the military board -took no notice. The consequence was, that in a dust-storm on the night -of the twenty-first of May, ten years ago, the barracks came down! -Beneath that mass of dust and smoke, and unburnt bricks, lay all the -men, women, and children, left to represent the glorious 50th Regiment -of Foot! Beneath that mass were the heroes who had escaped the carnage -of the battle-fields in which three to one of the Regiment had died! -Fifty-one men, eighteen women, and twenty-nine children, were killed by -the fall of those barracks; one hundred and twenty-six men, thirty-nine -women, and thirty-four children, were badly wounded--many maimed and -disfigured for life! Well might the Colonel of that regiment cry aloud, -"My God! there is no 50th left! The enemy did its worst; but it is the -Company Bahadoor that has given us the finishing blow!" - -The English reader may possibly doubt the accuracy of these details; -but there is a huge grave at Loodianah containing the bones of those -men, women, and children of the 50th; and scores of officers still live -to bear testimony to the truth of my assertions in respect to this -horrible catastrophe. - -The engineer at Loodianah was written to by the secretary of the -Military Board, and asked why he had not made a report of the state of -the barracks which had fallen in? He replied that he had written three -letters on the subject, and that his predecessor in office had written -seven; and the foolish man was stupid enough to ransack the records -of his office, and "had the honour to transmit for information of the -Board copies of these documents." For this absurd effort of memory, and -ridiculous attempt to clear himself of blame, he was removed from his -appointment, and sent to do duty with the Sappers and Miners--a sort of -very severe punishment in the East for any engineer officer guilty of -an indiscretion. - - - - -CHURCHYARDS, ETC. - - -I cannot leave Meerut without taking the reader to the churchyard of -that station. - -An Indian churchyard presents a very different aspect to a churchyard -in England or elsewhere. The tombs for the most part are very much -larger. When first erected or newly done up they are as white as snow, -formed, as they are generally, of chunam (plaster), which somewhat -resembles Roman cement; but after exposure to only one rainy season -and one hot weather, they become begrimed and almost black. The birds -flying from structure to structure carry with them the seeds of various -plants and herbs, and these if not speedily removed take root and -grow apace. A stranger wandering in the churchyard of Meerut might -fancy that he is amidst ruins of stupendous antiquity, if he were not -aware of the fact that fifty years have scarcely elapsed since the -first Christian corpse was deposited within those walls which now -encircle some five acres of ground, literally covered with tombs, in -every stage of preservation and decay. I was conducted in my ramble -through the Meerut churchyard by an old and very intelligent pensioner, -who had originally been a private in a regiment of Light Dragoons. -This old man lived by the churchyard, that is to say, he derived a -very comfortable income from looking after and keeping in repair the -tombs of those whose friends are now far away; but whose thoughts -nevertheless still turn occasionally to that Christian enclosure in the -land of heathens and idolaters. - -"I get, sir, for this business," said the old man, pointing with his -stick to a very magnificent edifice, "two pounds a year. It is not -much, but it is what I asked, and it pays me very well, sir. And if you -should go back to England, and ever come across any of her family, I -hope, sir, you will tell them that I do my duty by the grave; not that -I think they have any doubt of it, for they must know--or, leastways, -they have been told by them they can believe--that if I never received -a farthing from them I would always keep it in repair, as it is now. -God bless her, and rest her soul! She was as good and as beautiful a -woman as ever trod this earth." - -"Who was she?" - -"The wife of an officer in my old regiment, sir. I was in her husband's -troop. He's been out twice since the regiment went home, only to visit -this grave; for he has long since sold out of the service, and is a -rich gentleman. The last time he came was about five years ago. He -comes what you call _incog._; nobody knows who he is, and he never -calls on anybody. All that he now does in this country is to come -here, stop for three days and nights, putting up at the dâk bungalow, -and spending his time here, crying. It is there that he stands, where -you stand now, fixing his eyes on the tablet, and sometimes laying his -head down on the stone, and calling out her name: 'Ellen! Ellen! My own -dear Ellen!' He did love her, sure_ly_, sir." - -"Judging from the age of the lady, twenty-three, and the date of her -death, he must be rather an old man now." - -"Yes, sir. He must be more than sixty; but his love for her memory -is just as strong as ever. She died of a fever, poor thing. And for -that business," he again pointed with his stick to a tomb admirably -preserved, "I used to get two pounds ten shillings a-year. That is the -tomb of a little girl of five years old, the daughter of a civilian. -The parents are now dead. They must be, for I have not heard of 'em or -received anything from 'em for more than six years past." - -"Then who keeps the tomb in repair?" - -"I do, sir. When I am here, with my trowel and mortar, and whitewash, -why shouldn't I make the outside of the little lady's last home on -earth as bright and as fair as those of her friends and neighbours? -I have a nursery of 'em, as I call it, over in yonder corner--the -children's corner. Some of 'em are paid for, others not; but when I'm -there doing what's needful, I touch 'em up all alike, bless their -dear little souls. And somehow or other every good action meets its -own reward, and often when we least expect it. Now, for instance, sir, -about three years and a half ago, I was over there putting the nursery -in good order, when up comes a grey-headed gentleman, and looks about -the graves. Suddenly he stopped opposite to one and began to read, and -presently he took out his pocket handkerchief and put it to his eyes. - -"'Did you know that little child, sir?' said I, when it was not -improper to speak. 'Know it?' said he, 'yes. It was my own little -boy.' 'Dear me, sir!' I answered him. 'And you are, then, Lieutenant -Statterleigh?' 'I was,' said he; 'but I am now the colonel of a -regiment that has just come to India, and is now stationed at Dinapore. -But tell me, who keeps this grave in order?' 'I do, sir,' says I. -'At whose expense?' says he. 'At nobody's, sir,' says I. 'It is kept -in order by the dictates of my own conscience. Your little boy is in -good company here; and while I am whitening the tombs of the other -little dears, I have it not in my heart to pass by his without giving -it a touch also.' Blest if he didn't take me to the house where he -was staying, and give me five hundred rupees! That sort of thing has -happened to me more than five or six times in my life, not that I ever -hope or think of being paid for such work and labour when I am about -it." - -"That must have been a magnificent affair," said I, pointing to a heap -of red stone and marble. "But how comes it in ruins?" - -"It is just as it was left, sir. The lady died. Her husband, a judge -here, took on terribly; and ordered that tomb for her. Some of the -stone was brought from Agra, some from Delhi; but before it was put -together and properly erected, he married again, and the work was -stopped. I was present at the funeral. There was no getting him away -after the service was over, and at last they had to resort to force and -violence--in fact, to carry him out of the yard. But the shallowest -waters, as the proverb says, sir, always make the most noise, while -those are the deepest that flow on silently. Yonder is a funny tomb, -sir," continued the old man, again pointing with his stick. "There! -close to the tomb of the lady which I first showed you." - -"How do you mean funny?" I asked, observing nothing particular in the -structure. - -"Well, sir, it is funny only on account of the history of the two -gentlemen whose remains it covers," replied the old man, leading me -to the tomb. "One of these young gentlemen, sir, was an officer--a -lieutenant--in the Bengal Horse Artillery; the other was an ensign in a -Royal Regiment of the Line. There was a ball, and by some accident that -beautiful lady of our regiment had engaged herself to both of them for -the same dance. When the time came, both went up and claimed her hand. -Neither of them would give way, and the lady not wishing to offend -either by showing a preference, and finding herself in a dilemma, -declined to dance with either. Not satisfied with this, they retired -to the verandah, where they had some high words, and the next morning -they met, behind the church there, and fought a duel, in which both of -them fell, mortally wounded. They had scarcely time to shake hands with -one another when they died. In those days matters of the kind were very -easily hushed up; and it was given out, though everybody knew to the -contrary, that one had died of fever and the other of cholera, and they -were both buried side by side in one grave; and this tomb was erected -over them at the joint expense of the two regiments to which they -belonged. I get ten rupees a year for keeping this grave in order." - -"Who pays you?" - -"A gentleman in Calcutta, a relation of one of them. I'll tell you -what it is, sir. This foolish affair, which ended so fatally, sowed -the seeds of the fever that carried off that beautiful and good woman -yonder. She was maddened by the thought of being the cause of the -quarrel in which they lost their lives. I knew them both, sir, from -seeing them so often on the parade ground and at the band-stand; very -fine young men they were, sir. Yes; here they sleep in peace." - -"Whose tombs are those?" I asked, pointing to some two or three -hundred which were all exactly alike, and in three straight lines; in -other words, three deep. - -"Those are the tombs of the men of the Cameronians, sir. These graves -are all uniform, as you observe. Fever made sad havoc with that -regiment. They lost some three companies in all. Behind them are the -tombs of the men of the Buffs, and behind them the tombs of the men of -other Royal Regiments of Infantry--all uniform you see, sir; but those -of each regiment rather differently shaped. To the right, flanking the -Infantry tombs, are the tombs of the men of the Cavalry, 8th and 11th -Dragoons, and 16th Lancers. In the rear of the Cavalry are the tombs -of the Horse and Foot Artillerymen--all uniform you see, sir. Egad! if -they could rise just now, what a pretty little army they would form, of -all ranks, some thousands of 'em, and well officered, too, they would -be; and here a man to lead them. This is the tomb of Major-General -Considine, one of the most distinguished men in the British army. He -was the officer that the Duke of Wellington fixed upon to bring the -53rd Foot into good order, when they ran riot in Gibraltar some years -ago. This is the tomb of General Considine, rotting and going rapidly -to decay, though it was only built in the year 1845. A great deal of -money is squandered in the churchyards in India. Tombs are erected, -and at a great expense frequently. After they are once put up it is -very seldom that they are visited or heeded. Tens of thousands of -pounds have been thrown away on the vast pile of bricks and mortar and -stone that you now see within this enclosure, and with the exception -of a few all are crumbling away. A Hindoo--a sweeper--said to me the -other day in this graveyard, 'Why don't you English burn your dead as -we do, instead of leaving their graves here, to tell us how much you -can neglect them and how little you care for them? What is the use -of whitening a few sepulchres amidst this mass of black ruin?' I had -no answer to give the fellow, sir; indeed the same thought had often -occurred to me while at work in this wilderness. Do you not think, -sir, that the government, through its own executive officers, ought -to expend a few hundred pounds every year on these yards, in order to -avert such a scandal and disgrace? I do not speak interestedly. I have -as much already on my hands as I can perform, if not more; but I do -often think that there is really some reason in the remarks of that -sweeper. All these graves that you see here so blackened and left to go -to ruin, are the graves of men who have served their country and died -in its service. Very little money would keep the yard free from this -grass and these rank weeds, and very little more would make all these -tombs fit to be seen; for neither labour nor whitewash is expensive in -this part of the world. One would hardly suppose, on looking about him -just now, that the sons and daughters of some of the best families -in England are buried here, and that in a very short time no one will -be able to distinguish the spot where each is lying; so defaced and -so much alike will all the ruins become. What, sir, I repeat, is the -use of throwing away money in building tombs, if they are not kept in -repair? Instead of laying out fifty or a hundred pounds on a thing like -this, why not lay out only five pounds on a single head-stone, and put -the rest out at interest to keep it up?" - -"Or a small slab with an iron railing round it?" - -"Ah, sir; but then you would require an European to remain here, and a -couple of native watchmen to see that the railings were not carried off -by the villagers. As it is, they never allow an iron railing to remain -longer than a week, or so long as that. They watch for an opportunity, -jump over this low wall, and tear them down, or wrench them off and -away with them." - -"But surely there is some one to watch the yard?" - -"Yes, two sweepers--men of the lowest caste of Hindoos. And when it -is found out that a grave has been plundered of its railings, or that -the little marble tablet, which some have, has been taken away, they -deny all knowledge of the matter, and are simply discharged, and two -others of the same caste are put into their places. It would not be -much to build a comfortable little bungalow for an European--a man -like myself, for instance--and give the yard into his charge, holding -him responsible for any damage done, and requiring him to see that -the grave of every Christian--man, woman, and child--is kept in good -order. But horrible as is the condition of this churchyard--looking -as it does, for the most part, more like a receptacle for the bodies -of felons than those of good and brave soldiers and civilians, and -their wives and children--it is really nothing when compared with the -graveyard of Kernaul. Kernaul, you know, sir, was our great frontier -station some twenty years ago. It was, in fact, as large a station -as Umballah now is. It had its church, its play-house, its barracks -for cavalry, infantry, and artillery, its mess-houses, magnificent -bungalows, and all the rest of it. For some reason or other--but -what that reason was I could, never discover, nor anybody else to my -knowledge--the station was abandoned with all its buildings, which -cost the government and private individuals lacs and lacs of rupees. -You may be pretty sure that the villagers were not long in plundering -every house that was unprotected. Away went the doors and windows, -the venetians, and every bar, bolt, nail, or bit of iron upon which -they could lay their fingers; not content with this, the brutes set -fire to many or nearly all of the thatched bungalows, in the hope of -picking up something amongst the ruins. The church--the largest and -best in the Upper Provinces, with no one to take care of it--was one -of the first places that suffered. Like the other buildings, it was -despoiled of its doors, windows, benches, bolts, nails, &c., and -they carried away every marble tablet therein erected, and removeable -without much difficulty. And the same kind of havoc was made in -the burial-ground--the tombs were smashed, some of the graves, and -especially the vaults, opened; and plainly enough was it to be seen, -that the low caste men had broken open the coffins and examined their -contents, in the hope of finding a ring, or an ear-ring, or some other -ornament on the person of the dead. I went there a year ago on some -business connected with the grave of a lady, whose husband wished her -remains to be removed to Meerut, and placed in the same vault with -those of his sister, who died here about eighteen months since. I was -not successful, however. There was no trace of her tomb. It was of -stone, and had been taken away bodily, to pave the elephant shed or -camel yard, perhaps, of some rich native in the neighbourhood. Looking -around me, as I did, and remembering Kernaul when it was crowded with -Europeans, it seemed to me as though the British had been turned out -of the country by the natives, and that the most sacred spot in the -cantonment had been desecrated out of spite or revenge. And it is just -what they would do if ever they got the upper hand." - -[Whilst I write, it has just occurred to me that this old soldier and -his family perished in the massacre at Meerut on the 10th of May. -He was in some way related to, or connected by marriage with, Mrs. -Courtenay, the keeper of the hotel, who, with her nieces, was so -barbarously murdered on that disastrous occasion.] - -"Why, bless my soul!" exclaimed the old man, stooping down and picking -up something, "if the old gentleman hasn't shed his skin again! This -is the skin of a very large snake, a cobra capella, that I have known -for the last thirteen years. He must be precious old from his size, the -slowness of his movements, and the bad cough he has had for the last -four or five years. Last winter he was very bad indeed, and I thought -he was going to die. He was then living in the ruins of old General -Webster's vault and coughing continually, just like a man with the -asthma. However, I strewed a lot of fine ashes and some bits of wool -in the ruin to keep him warm by night, and some fine white sand at the -entrance, upon which he used to crawl out and bask, when the sun had -made it hot enough; and when the warm weather set in he got all right -again." - -"Rather a strange fancy of yours, to live upon such amicable terms with -the great enemy of the human race?" - -"Well, perhaps it is. But he once bit and killed a thief who came -here to rob a child's grave of the iron railings, which its parents, -contrary to my advice, had placed round it, and ever since then I have -liked the snake, and have never thought of molesting him. I have had -many an opportunity of killing him (if I had wished to do it) when I -have caught him asleep on the tombstones, in the winter's sun. I could -kill him this very day--this very hour--if I liked, for I know where -he is at this very moment. He is in a hole, close to the Ochterlony -monument there, in that corner of the yard. But why should I hurt him? -He has never offered to do me any harm, and when I sing, as I sometimes -do, when I am alone here at work on some tomb or other, he will crawl -up, and listen for two or three hours together. One morning, while he -was listening, he came in for a good meal which lasted him some days." - -"How was this?" - -"I will tell you, sir. A minar was chased by a small hawk, and in -despair came and perched itself on the top of a most lofty tomb at -which I was at work. The hawk, with his eyes fixed intently on his -prey, did not, I fancy, see the snake lying motionless in the grass; -or if he did see him he did not think he was a snake, but something -else--my crowbar, perhaps. After a little while the hawk pounced down, -and was just about to give the minar a blow and a grip, when the snake -suddenly lifted his head, raised his hood, and hissed. The hawk gave -a shriek, fluttered, flapped his wings with all his might, and tried -very hard to fly away. But it would not do. Strong as the eye of the -hawk was, the eye of the snake was stronger. The hawk for a time seemed -suspended in the air; but at last he was obliged to come down, and -sit opposite to the old gentleman (the snake) who commenced, with his -forked tongue, and keeping his eyes upon him all the while, to slime -his victim all over. This occupied him for at least forty minutes, and -by the time the process was over the hawk was perfectly motionless. I -don't think he was dead. But he was very soon, however, for the old -gentleman put him into a coil or two, and crackled up every bone in -the hawk's body. He then gave him another sliming, made a big mouth, -distended his neck till it was as big round as the thickest part of my -arm, and down went the hawk like a shin of beef into a beggarman's bag." - -"And what became of the minar?" - -"He was off like a shot, sir, the moment his enemy was in trouble, and -no blame to him. What a funny thing nature is altogether, sir! I very -often think of that scene when I am at work here." - -"But this place must be infested with snakes?" - -"I have never seen but that one, sir, and I have been here for a long -time. Would you like to see the old gentleman, sir? As the sun is up, -and the morning rather warm, perhaps he will come out, if I pretend to -be at work and give him a ditty. If he does not, we will look in upon -him." - -"Come along," said I. - -I accompanied the old man to a tomb, close to the monument beneath -which the snake was said to have taken up his abode. I did not go very -near to the spot, but stood upon a tomb with a thick stick in my -hand, quite prepared to slay the monster if he approached me; for from -childhood I have always had an instinctive horror of reptiles of every -species, caste, and character. - -The old man began to hammer away with his mallet and chisel, and to -sing a very quaint old song which I had never heard before, and have -never heard since. It was a dialogue or duet between the little finger -and the thumb, and began thus. The thumb said: - - "Dear Rose Mary Green! - When I am king, little finger, you shall be queen." - -The little finger replied: - - "Who told you so, Thummy, Thummy? Who told you so?" - -The thumb responded: - - "It was my own heart, little finger, who told me so!" - -The thumb then drew a very flattering picture of the life they would -lead when united in wedlock, and concluded, as nearly as I can -remember, thus: - - THUMB. - "And when you are dead, little finger, as it may hap, - You shall be buried, little finger, under the tap." - - LITTLE FINGER. - "Why, Thummy, Thummy? Why, Thummy, Thummy? Why, Thummy, - Thummy--_Why_?" - - THUMB. - "That you may drink, little finger, when you are dry?" - -But this ditty did not bring out the snake. I remarked this to the -old man, who replied: "He hasn't made his toilet yet--hasn't rubbed -his scales up, sir; but he'll be here presently. You will see. Keep -your eye on that hole, sir. I am now going to give him a livelier tune, -which is a great favourite of his"; and forthwith he struck up an old -song, beginning - - "'Twas in the merry month of May, - When bees from flower to flower did hum." - -Out came the snake before the song was half over! Before it was -concluded he had crawled slowly and (if I dare use such a word) rather -majestically, to within a few paces of the spot where the old man was -standing. - -"Good morning to you, sir," said the old man to the snake. "I am happy -to see you in your new suit of clothes. I have picked up your old suit, -and I have got it in my pocket, and a very nice pair of slippers my old -wife will make out of it. The last pair that she made of your rejected -apparel were given as a present to Colonel Cureton, who, like myself, -very much resembled the great General Blücher in personal appearance. -Who will get the pair of which I have now the makings, Heaven only -knows. Perhaps old Brigadier White, who has also a Blücher cut about -him. What song would you like next? 'Kathleen Mavourneen?' Yes, I know -that is a pet song of yours; and you shall have it." - -The old man sung the melody with a tenderness and feeling which quite -charmed me, as well as the snake, who coiled himself up and remained -perfectly still. Little reason as I had to doubt the truth of any of -the old man's statements, I certainly should have been sceptical as -to the story of the snake if I had not witnessed the scene I have -attempted to describe. - -"Well, sir," said the old man, coming up to me, after he had made a -salaam to the snake and left him, "it is almost breakfast-time, and I -will, with your permission, bid you good morning." - -I thanked him very much for his information, and suffered him to -depart; and then, alone, I wandered about that well-filled piece of -ground. I have always had a melancholy pleasure in strolling from -tombstone to tombstone, and reading the various epitaphs, and on that -morning, after all that I had heard from the old pensioner, I was just -in the humour for gratifying this morbid desire. - -Some miles to the northward of Meerut is the station of Burnampore. No -troops are quartered here; it is what is called in India a purely civil -station, containing only a magistrate (who is also the collector of -the revenue), an assistant (a covenanted civilian), the establishment -of the office, and a small police force. To these two gentlemen and -their few subordinates were entrusted the care and the collections of a -district as large as Lancashire or Yorkshire, and containing, possibly, -as many inhabitants. The idea of two gentlemen keeping in order a -district of such dimensions was simply absurd; but they did their -best, and that was all that could be expected of them. I remained four -days and nights at Burnampore, and during that time was a guest of the -assistant magistrate, whose acquaintance I had made at Meerut. Anything -more monotonous and dreary than the existence of a gentleman stationed -at such a place it would be very difficult to imagine. My host assured -me that if it were not for an occasional visit paid by some traveller -on his way up or down the country, both himself and his superior -officer would have died of ennui. "If it were not for the shooting, -which is very good in this district," he added, "I would rather be a -permanent passenger on board ship, or the inmate of a debtors' prison -in London, or any other part of England--in either case, one would have -something like company, and one would have, at all events, a somewhat -cooler and more congenial climate." - -In the district of Burnampore there are a great number of wolves, and -during my short stay, even, two were brought in, and the Government -reward (two rupees a-head) claimed upon them. These ferocious creatures -often carry off the young children of poor people and devour them. -It was in this district that "a wolf child," as the natives of India -express it, was found some years ago, and taken to Meerut, where it was -exhibited as a curiosity. "There can be no question," said my friend -and host, when I spoke to him one morning on this subject, "that the -male wolf, in all these cases, seizes and runs off with the infant, and -that when he has carried it alive to the den, the female, especially if -she happens to have cubs at the time, instead of killing and devouring, -suckles and fosters the little human being. So, after all, the story of -Romulus and Remus may not be a mere fable." - -"No," said I. "But what is that Greek epigram from the Anthology of -Bland and Merivale? The she-goat that suckled the whelp of a wolf, -which wolf, when she had no more milk to give it, killed her and eat -her. Something about - - 'Be kind, be gentle, and do what you will, - A stubborn nature will be nature still.'" - -"Yes," replied my host. "I do remember something about it; and by and -bye we will talk the matter over, and refer to the volume, which I have -amongst my books; but at present you must excuse me, for I have a duty -to perform. You may come with me and witness the operation, if you -like; but understand me, I shall not be offended if you decline to do -so." - -"What operation?" - -"That of hanging." - -"What? Hanging! Hanging what? - -"A man--a culprit--a murderer. Is is a part of my duty to see this -operation performed. Come," he added energetically, and slapping me on -the shoulder. "Come, be a sort of Selwyn for once in your life." - -Whilst I was hesitating, the magistrate approached in his buggy. He -had been taking his morning drive, and had dropt in upon his assistant -to have some friendly conversation. He had forgotten all about the -forthcoming execution; and, on hearing that we were just about to start -for the spot, he very kindly offered to take us there--an offer which -was accepted by his assistant with many thanks. So, off we drove, three -in a gig, like so many men going to witness a pugilistic encounter in -England during the beginning of the present century. - -When we had arrived at the place of execution, a field some distance -from the gaol, in which had been erected a temporary gallows, I -was surprised at not finding a mob. There was no one there but the -culprit--who was eating as much rice as he could, and as fast as he -could--a couple of native policemen with drawn swords guarding him; -the gaoler, who was a Mahommedan, and a Bengalee writer (clerk), who -stood with pen, ink, and paper in hand, ready to dot down the official -particulars of the scene, preparatory to their being forwarded to -Government, according to a certain regulation. - -"Is everything ready?" said the assistant magistrate to the gaoler. - -"Yes, Sahib," he replied; "but he has not yet finished his breakfast." - -"In one minute, Sahib," cried the culprit, who overheard the -conversation; and hastily taking into his stomach the few grains of -rice that remained upon the dish, and drinking the remainder of his -half-gallon of milk, he sprang up, and called out the word "Tyear!" -signifying "I am ready." He was then led up to the scaffold, the most -primitive affair that I ever beheld. It was only a piece of woodwork -resembling a large crock or crate in which a dinner-service is packed -for exportation. Upon this crock, which was placed under the beam, he -was requested to stand. Having obeyed this order, the rope was adjusted -around his neck. The assistant magistrate then called out to him in -Hindostanee, "Have you anything to say?" - -"Yes, Sahib," was the reply. And he began a long story, false from -beginning to end, but every word of which the Bengalee writer took -down. He spoke, and with vehemence, for about thirty-five minutes, -when, having stopped, either finally, or to take breath, the assistant -magistrate gave the signal to the gaoler, by waving his hand. The crock -was then pulled from under the culprit by the two policemen, and down -dangled the culprit's body, the feet not more than eighteen inches from -the ground. - -They are not adepts in the art of hanging in India; it took the culprit -at least ten minutes to die. At times I feared, so desperate were his -struggles, that he would break the beam, snap the rope, or bring down -the whole apparatus. In the days of Henry Fielding, the vulgar used to -speak of hanging as "dancing on nothing," and this horrible idea the -Indian culprit on that morning amply realised. The reader must not, -however, sympathize with his sufferings. He had been justly convicted, -and was justly put to death for murdering, in that very field where he -expiated his offence, a little girl of seven years of age, in order to -possess himself of a single bangle she wore--a bangle valued at one -rupee four annas--half-a-crown of English money. I cannot accuse myself -of a cruel or brutal disposition; but, if the monster whom I saw hanged -had had a thousand lives instead of one, I could have witnessed the -taking of every one of them without a single atom of a desire to save -him. - -The cutting down of the culprit, as soon as it was discovered that -life was extinct (for as there was no crowd of pickpockets and vendors -of cakes and ginger-beer to take a moral lesson, the prescribed hour -was unnecessary) was quite as primitive as the foregoing part of the -operation. One of the native policemen with his blunt sword, severed -the rope by sawing it just above the tie, and down came the corpse. -I was tempted to jump out of the buggy in which, sitting between the -magistrate and his assistant, I had witnessed the execution, and -examine, or rather look attentively at, the deceased. A finer head, in -a phrenological point of view, I had never seen, and across the naked -chest was suspended the sacred thread, indicating that the culprit was -a Brahmin. - -"Is it not very odd," said I, on my return to the buggy, "that most -of the diabolical crimes committed in this country are committed by -Brahmins?" - -"Not at all odd," replied my host. "Do you not know that they believe -nothing can hurt their pure souls after death; and hence their -comparative recklessness in this world? There was a Brahmin hanged -here, about a year ago, who, just before he was turned off, made a -speech such as that made by Napoleon on paper to Sir Hudson Lowe--'You -may convict me of what you please; you may make me a prisoner; you may, -if you like, shackle these limbs, and consign me to a dungeon; but you -will find that my soul will be just as free, just as proud, as when it -awed all Europe!'" - -"Ah, but that was the emanation of ----" - -"What the deuce is that?" cried the magistrate, who was driving us -rapidly towards home. "See! That thing in the road." And coming up to -it, he reined in the horse. - -The syce (groom), who was running behind the buggy, picked up the -object, at his master's bidding. It was a cloak--a lady's cloak--made -of most costly materials--satin and silk, and wadded throughout. It -had evidently fallen, unobserved, from some palanquin during the night, -and an examination of the footprints showed that the last traveller -who had moved along the road was journeying upward, and was then most -probably staying at the dâk bungalow, at Deobund, a halting-place -some twelve miles distant. The assistant magistrate, after we had -breakfasted, proposed that he and I should drive to Deobund, and make -inquiries. I was nothing loth, and a swift mare having been harnessed -and put to the buggy, off we started, two sowars (native horsemen or -mounted police) cantering behind us. - -About two miles from the bungalow to which we were proceeding, we -overtook a tribe of large monkeys. I should say there were as many as -four hundred, and each carried a stick of uniform length and shape. -They, moved along in ranks or companies, just, in short, as though -they were imitating a wing of a regiment of infantry. At the head of -this tribe was an old and very powerful monkey, who was no doubt the -chief. It was a very odd sight, and I became greatly interested in -the movements of the creatures. There could be no question that they -had either some business or some pleasure on hand, and the fact of -each carrying a stick led us to conclude that it was the former upon -which they were bent. Their destination was, like ours, evidently -Deobund, where there are some hundreds of monkeys fed by a number of -Brahmins, who live near a Hindoo temple there, and perform religious -ceremonies. They (this monkey regiment) would not get out of the road -on our account, nor disturb themselves in any way, and my friend was -afraid to drive through their ranks, or over any of them, for when -assailed they are most ferocious brutes, and armed as they were, and in -such numbers, they could have annihilated us with the greatest ease. -There was no help for us, therefore, but to let the mare proceed at a -walk in the rear of the tribe, the members of which, now that we were -nearing Deobund, began to chatter frightfully. Just before we came to -the bungalow, they left the road, and took the direction of the temple. -Fain would we have followed them; but to do so in the buggy would have -been impossible, for they crossed over some very rough ground and two -ditches. My friend, therefore, requested the sowars to follow them, and -report all they might observe of their actions. Meanwhile we moved off -to the bungalow, in search of the owner of the cloak. The first person -whom we saw was an ayah, who was sitting in the verandah, playing with -a child of about five years of age. - -"Whose child is that?" asked the assistant-magistrate of the ayah. - -"The mem-Sahib's." - -"What is the mem's name?" - -"I don't know," she replied, with a smile which seemed to say that -she was not warranted in being communicative. While travelling, few -servants who know their business will tell strangers the name of their -master or mistress. - -"What is _your_ name?" he then inquired of the boy, in English. - -"I don't understand you," was the reply, in Hindostanee, accompanied -by a shake of the head. It is wonderful how rapidly the children of -Europeans in India take a cue from a native servant of either sex. Not -always, but in very many cases, it is in deceit and falsehood that -children are first schooled by the servants. The reader must understand -that deceit and falsehood are not regarded as immoralities in the eyes -of Asiatics. A man or woman who, by fraud and perjury wins a cause, or -gains any other point, is not looked down upon as a rogue, but up to as -a very clever fellow. Several other experiments were made in order to -extract from the ayah the name of her mistress, but to no purpose. The -only information we could learn was, that the lady was much fatigued, -and was sleeping. We said nothing about the cloak, by the way. - -The servants of the bungalow, and at Deobund (there were four of them) -now came up to make their most respectful salaam to one of the lords -of the district, the assistant-magistrate, on questioning them in -private as to the name of the lady, we were in no way successful. All -that the ayah would tell them, they said, was, that she had come from -Calcutta, and was going to Simlah. "She is a burra beebee, however, -Sahib," added the Khansamah; "for all along the road, after she left -the steamer at Allahabad, until she arrived at Meerut, she was escorted -by two sowars; and when she reaches the Saharunpore bungalow, she will -find sowars ready. This is the only district in which she has had no -escort." - -This was a mystery that my friend could not unravel: why, if other -magistrates had been indented upon (as magistrates very frequently -were, when ladies were nervous and travelling with only an ayah), he -should be omitted; especially as his district was as dangerous to -pass through as any other (not that there was much or any danger in -those days), was more than he could understand; and he very naturally -became all the more curious (apart from the ownership of the cloak) to -know the name of the lady who had broken the link of her escort when -she came into his district. "Perhaps," said he to me, "either I have -or my chief has given her husband some offence, and, possibly, he is -small-minded enough to decline asking me to do what after all is only a -matter of duty, or of civility and compliment, which amounts to pretty -much the same thing. However, we shall see." - -My friend now mentioned to the Khansamah, a very old but very active -and intelligent man, the sight we had seen on the road--the regiment of -monkeys. - -"Ah!" exclaimed the old man, "it is about the time." - -"What time?" - -"Well, Sahib, about every five years that tribe comes up the country to -pay a visit to this place; and another tribe comes about the same time -from the up-country--the hills. They meet in a jungle behind the old -Hindoo temple, and there embrace each other as though they were human -beings and old friends who had been parted for a length of time. I have -seen in that jungle as many as four or five thousand. The Brahmins say -that one large tribe comes all the way from Ajmere, and another from -the southern side of the country, and from Nepal and Tirhoot. There -were hundreds of monkeys here this morning, but now I do not see one. I -suppose they have gone to welcome their friends." - -The sowars who had been deputed to follow the tribe now rode up, and -reported that in the vicinity of the old temple there was an army of -apes--an army of forty thousand! One of the sowars, in the true spirit -of Oriental exaggeration, expressed himself to the effect that it -would be easier to count the hairs of one's head than the number there -assembled. - -"Let us go and look at them," I suggested, "and by the time we return -the lady may be stirring." - -"But we will not go on foot," said my friend; "we will ride the sowars' -horses. In the first place, I have an instinctive horror of apes, and -should like to have the means of getting away from them speedily, if -they became too familiar or offensive. In the second place, I do not -wish to fatigue myself by taking so long a walk in the heat of the day." - -We mounted the horses, and were soon at the spot indicated by the -sowars. There were not so many as had been represented; but I am -speaking very far within bounds when I state that there could not -have been fewer than eight thousand, and some of them of an enormous -size. I could scarcely have believed that there were so many monkeys -in the world if I had not visited Benares, and heard of the tribes at -Gibraltar. Their sticks, which were thrown together in a heap, formed a -very large stack of wood. - -"What is this?" my friend said to one of the Brahmins; for since his -appointment he had never heard of this gathering of apes. - -"It is a festival of theirs, Sahib," was the reply. "Just as Hindoos -at stated times go to Hurdwar, Hajipore, and other places, so do these -monkeys come to this holy place." - -"And how long do they stay?" - -"Two or three days; then they go away to their homes in different parts -of the country; then attend to their business for four or five years; -then come again and do festival, and so on, sir, to the end of all -time. You see that very tall monkey there, with two smaller ones on -either side of him?" - -"Yes." - -"Well, sir, that is a very old monkey. His age is more than twenty -years, I think. I first saw him fifteen years ago. He was then -full-grown. His native place is Meerut. He lives with the Brahmins at -the Soorj Khan, near Meerut. The smaller ones are his sons, sir. They -have never been here before; and you see he is showing them all about -the place, like a very good father." - -Having seen enough of these "sacred animals," we returned to the -bungalow; we were only just in time, for the lady was about to depart, -albeit the sun was very high in the heavens, and the day, for the time -of year, was extremely hot. We caught sight of her in the verandah. My -friend became deadly pale, and exclaimed: "Is it possible!" - -"What?" I asked him. - -"I will tell you on our way home. I must see her--speak to her--painful -as our meeting must be. Only fancy, if that cloak should be hers!" - -The lady, who must have learnt from the servants at the bungalow -the name of my friend, the official, evidently desired to avoid -an interview with him; for upon our approach she retired from the -palanquin, which she was arranging, and entered hastily the room she -had occupied. We (my friend and myself) went into the other room of the -bungalow, which happened to be vacant. Presently we heard the voice -of the ayah. She was very angry and was accusing the servants of the -bungalow of being thieves. She had now, for the first time since they -were lost, missed several articles, and amongst them the cloak of her -mistress. She was perfectly ready to swear that she had seen them all -since their arrival at the bungalow; that she had removed them from -the palkees with her own hands; and if the servants had not stolen -them who had?--who could have done so? Distinctly did we hear the lady -command the ayah to be silent--to say nothing of the loss, and enter -her palanquin; but the ayah, too much enraged to hear or to heed the -command, repeated her accusation; whereupon the servants in a body -rushed into the apartment in which we were standing listening, and -after protesting their perfect innocence of the theft, referred to the -character for honesty which every one of them had borne for many years. -Strange to say, frequent as are the opportunities which the servants at -these bungalows have of pilfering from travellers, they rarely or never -avail themselves of such opportunities; and, whenever it has happened -that a lady or gentleman has died in one of them, the money and effects -have always been forthcoming, with nothing whatever missing. - -The lady now forced the ayah to depart, and enter her palanquin, in -which the little boy was sitting; she was about to follow, when my -friend rushed into the verandah, and, seizing her by the hand, detained -her. She was as agitated as he was; and quite as pale. He held her -hand in his with a firm but withal a gentle grasp, and looked into her -face, which must have been beautiful when she was a few years younger. -As it was, she had still a charming profile and countenance, and a -skin as white as snow. From the window, or rather looking through the -Venetians, I beheld the scene, which reminded me of that exquisite -picture of Mr. Frank Stone--_The Last Appeal_. There was a look of -agony and despair in the face of the man; while the woman, who appeared -to sympathise with his sufferings, did not for awhile raise her eyes -from the ground. But at length she did so, and, looking mournfully into -my friend's face for a few seconds, burst into tears, and presently -her head, involuntarily as it were, rested on his shoulder. Suddenly -recollecting herself, she again attempted to take her departure; but -my friend, now grown desperate seemingly, placed her arm beneath his, -and walked with her to a clump of shade-giving mango trees, in front -of the bungalow, and there they held a conversation which lasted some -ten minutes. The lady then tore herself away from my friend, and after -bidding him farewell, she threw herself into her palanquin, which was -speedily lifted by the bearers and borne away, followed by the two -sowars, who were commanded to escort the fair traveller to the next -station. My friend, from the verandah of the bungalow, watched the -procession till it was out of sight, and then, seating himself on the -steps, covered his face with his hands, and wept like a child. - -"Come!" I said, after a time, laying a hand on his shoulder. "I am not -very impatient to know your secret, but it is time that we thought of -returning. What about the cloak? You have not restored it to the owner." - -"No, my dear fellow, and I never intend to do so. She has consented to -my retaining it. That cloak has warmed her dear limbs, and the sight of -it shall warm my heart till the last hour of my existence." - -On the way home my friend (who was accidentally drowned in the river -Jumna, about two years ago) spoke as follows: - -"Ten years have now elapsed since that lady and I were -fellow-passengers on board of a ship bound from London to Calcutta. -She was then seventeen years of age, and I twenty. On the voyage we -became very much attached to each other, and eventually loved each -other devotedly. And, what was more, we were betrothed. It was arranged -that as soon as practicable we should be married, I was compelled, -on arrival, to remain at the college at Fort William for a year, to -pass an examination; she was obliged to proceed to a large station -in Bengal, to join her family. Her father was a member of the civil -service; previous to her arrival he had promised Alice (that is her -name) to an old man, a judge, who had been twice married, and who -was then a widower. This old man was very rich, and had--as he still -has--a great influence with the government. A brother of his was one -of the lords of Leadenhall-street, and of this country. For some time -after our unhappy separation we corresponded regularly; but suddenly -the correspondence ceased. Her letters to me, and mine to her, were -intercepted. Meanwhile, the old judge, to whom she had been promised, -paid his addresses to her. She refused him. Many devices were resorted -to in order to wean her affections from me. They all failed. At length -they hit upon one which had the desired effect. They caused a paragraph -to be inserted in one of the Calcutta journals, to the effect that I -had married the daughter of a half-caste merchant. Alice was permitted -to see this paper, but none of those containing my indignant denial of -the truth of the announcement. - -"In disgust at my imagined faithlessness, and in despair and -recklessness, Alice at length accepted the hand of the old judge. They -were married. When made acquainted with this horrible fact, I became -half-mad. I drank very hard, had an attack of _delirium tremens_, and -was sent home for change of air and scene, to recruit my health. On -my return to India, after an absence of eighteen months, I was sent -to Dacca, where there was not the slightest chance of my ever seeing -Alice. Subsequently, I was, at my own request, transferred to these -provinces, but sent to Banda--a sort of penal settlement for refractory -civilians; not that I ever committed any offence beyond that of loving -Alice and being beloved by her. You must understand that, owing to the -influence of his brother, her old husband, shortly after his marriage -with Alice, became the great man he now is; and he had only to express -a wish in this country, touching the appointment or _dis_appointment -of any junior in the service, to have such wish instantly realised. My -only surprise is, that when it became necessary for her to pass through -this district, I was not ordered away to Scinde, on some trumpery -business, alleged to be special. Had there been any idea that we should -meet--as by the merest chance we have met--again in this world, I -should certainly have been removed, and ordered to some other station -miles away. I have never seen her since we parted in Calcutta, now more -than nine years ago, until this very day. But, thank Heaven! she loves -me still!" - -"I was afraid, when I saw you talking to her beneath that clump of -trees, that----" I was about to make some observations. - -"Ah, no!" he interrupted me. "There is no danger. Great and lasting -as my love for her is, I could not bear the thought of taking the -slightest advantage of her feelings; or to see her fall from the sphere -in which she holds a lofty and proud position. She is not happy, -neither am I. But spirits will recognise each other, and be united for -ever and ever. Ours is not a solitary case; sometimes when ladies in -India fall they deserve far more of pity than of blame." - - - - -THE HIMALAYAS. - - -I have already spoken of a German Baron and a French gentleman whom I -met at Agra, and I have said that they, like myself, were travelling in -search of the picturesque, and with a view to become acquainted with -Oriental character from personal observation. - -While staying with my friend at Barnapore, I received a letter from the -former, proposing that we should meet on a certain day at Mussoorie, in -the Himalaya mountains, and travel into the interior together. I agreed -with all my heart; and my friend, the assistant magistrate, was tempted -to apply for six weeks' leave, in order that he might accompany us. - -Let me describe these foreign gentlemen. They were respectively about -my own age--thirty-two--had seen a great deal of the world, and of the -society at every court and capital in Europe. They were both possessed -of considerable abilities, and of the most enviable dispositions; -always good-natured and good-tempered; patient and cheerful under those -innumerable little difficulties that almost invariably beset a wanderer -in the East, or, in fact, a wanderer in any part of the world. They -had, moreover, a keen sense of humour; and, each in his own peculiar -way, could relate a story, or an incident in his life, in such a manner -as to make it wonderfully mirth-provoking. They were men of refined -understanding and of very refined manners: take them all in all, they -were the most charming companions I ever encountered. They were utterly -devoid of vulgar nationalities--of any enthusiastic admiration of their -own fatherlands, and would just as soon ridicule the foibles peculiar -to their own countries, respectively, as the foibles of a man of any -other country. My friend the assistant magistrate was also a desirable -companion. He, too, was a good-tempered, good-humoured being, with a -keen sense of humour, and some wit. He had read a great deal of late -years, in that out-of-the-way station to which he had been appointed, -and he had profited by his reading. - -It was beginning to be very hot in the plains, and my friend and myself -were not a little glad when we found ourselves on the road to a colder -clime. We drove as far as Deobund in the buggy; and, at three P.M. -threw ourselves into our palanquins (palkees), bound for Dehra Dhoon -at the foot of the hills; at which place we arrived at about nine -o'clock on the following morning, and were deposited--both of us fast -asleep--in the verandah of the hotel, kept by a Mr. William Johns, who -had been formerly a professional jockey in the North-West Provinces of -India. - -So much has been written of Dehra Dhoon and Mussoorie, that even a -brief sketch of these places would be unwarranted in this narrative. - -As soon as we arrived at Mussoorie we began to collect coolies -(hill-men), to carry our baggage and stores. We required in all about -one hundred and fifty for the expedition, and by the time that we had -got these people together, and made arrangements with them, and the -guides whom we required, and had laid in our stock of provisions, &c., -the foreign gentlemen joined us, and expressed their readiness to start -at any given moment. We lingered, however, for two days, in order that -they might take some rest, and make the acquaintance of the gentlemen -at the club, who, at the instance of my friend, had made them as well -as myself honorary members of the institution. - -On the third morning, in the front of the club-house, our marching -establishment was collected, and the one hundred and fifty men of -whom it was composed were laden with the baggage and stores. There -were tents, the poles thereto belonging, camp tables, chairs, beds, -bedding, leather boxes of every kind, containing our clothing, &c., -deal chests, containing all sorts of provisions, dozens of cases of -wine--port, sherry, claret--beer, ducks, fowls, geese, guns (rifles -and others), umbrellas, great-coats, &c., &c., &c. Having seen this -train fairly off, we, the four of us, followed shortly after on foot, -and overtook them at the Landour Hill, a mountain about nine thousand -feet above the level of the sea. We were all in high spirits--including -my friend the assistant magistrate--notwithstanding he put on his lady -love's cloak as soon as we were out of sight of the club, and began to -quote in a melancholy but very loud voice, which reverberated through -the valleys on either side of us, those glorious lines of the poet -Thomson:-- - - "There is a power - Unseen, that rules th' illimitable world-- - That guides its motions, from the brightest - Star to least dust of this sin-tainted mould; - While man, who madly deems himself the lord - Of all, is nought but weakness and dependence. - This sacred truth, by sure experience taught, - Thou must have learnt, when wandering all alone: - Each bird, each insect flitting through the sky, - Was more sufficient for itself than _thou_!" - -Our first halting-place was about nine miles from Mussoorie. It was a -flat piece of ground, some distance down the southern face of the peak -over which the road wound. The place was called Sowcowlee, and here and -there were to be seen a few patches of cultivation and a cowshed. Our -course lay in the direction of Almorah, another Hill Sanatarium for the -English in India. The tents pitched, and all made snug and comfortable, -we threw ourselves down upon our beds, not to sleep, but to take some -rest after a long walk. Meanwhile our servants busied themselves in -preparing the dinner, for which the exercise and the change of air had -given us all a keen appetite. - -"Well!" exclaimed my friend (whom in future we will call Mr. -West), raising to his lips a bumper of claret, and quoting from the -Sentimental Journey, "the Bourbon is not such a bad fellow, after all." - -Neither the Frenchman nor the German understood the allusion; but when -it was explained they relished it amazingly. We were rather a temperate -party; and after the second bottle of wine was emptied, we caused the -glasses to be removed from our small table, and a green cloth spread -over it. We then began to play at whist--a game of which we were all -equally fond; and, what was of great consequence, we were all equal as -players. We did not gamble exactly; but the stakes were sufficiently -high to make either side attend very carefully to the game. The whist -over, we each took a tumbler of warm drink, and turned in for the -night, and slept, as the reader may imagine, very soundly. - -On the following morning, at sunrise, we were awakened, and informed -that upon a hill opposite to our encampment there were several large -deer. We arose, and went in pursuit of them. After dodging them for -some time we came within range, and each of us, selecting his animal, -fired. One shot only took effect, and that was from the Baron's rifle. -During our ramble we discovered that there were plenty of pheasants -in the locality, and so we agreed to remain for the day, and, after -breakfast, see what we could do amongst them. Under the circumstances -we should have been compelled to halt, for, as is usual on such -occasions, our servants had forgotten several little matters essential -for our comfort, if not necessary for our journey, namely, the -pickles and the sauces, the corkscrew, the instrument for opening the -hermetically sealed tins containing lobsters, oysters, and preserved -soups. Amongst other things that had been left behind was the Baron's -guitar, and without it he could not, or would not, sing any of his -thousand and one famous German songs. And such a sweet voice as he had! -So, while we were amongst the pheasants, five coolies were on their way -back to Mussoorie, to bring up the missing articles above enumerated. - -By two o'clock, we had bagged eleven noble birds, and returned to our -encampment, sufficiently hungry to enjoy the refreshments which the -Khansamah (butler), who was a great artist in his way, had prepared for -us. Our repast concluded, we had our camp bedsteads brought into the -open air, and threw ourselves down on them. - -Holding his cigar between the thumb and forefinger of his left hand, -the Baron thus went off:-- - -"Who can explain the inscrutable mystery of presentiments? Who can -fathom the secret inclinations of the human heart? Who can lift the -veil of sympathy? Who can unravel the web of magnetic natures? Who -can fully comprehend that link which unites the corporeal with the -spiritual world? Who can explain that terrible symbol which pervades -so many of our dreams? The sweet anxiety that seizes us when listening -to some wonderful tale; the voluptuous shiver which agitates our frame, -the indefinite yearning which fills the heart and the soul. All this -is a guarantee that some invisible chain links our world with another. -Let no one condemn as idle nonsense that which our shallow reason may -refuse to accept. Can the most acute understanding explain, or even -comprehend, its own growth; or even the growth and colouring of a mere -flower? Is not Nature herself a perfect mystery unto the minds of -thinking men?" - -"What is the matter, Baron?" asked the Frenchman. "Have you a nightmare -in this broad daylight?" - -"No, no," returned the Baron, with good-natured impetuosity. "It is not -so. I wish to tell you something--a little story, if you will listen." - -"Pray go on," we (his three companions) cried out, simultaneously. - -"Some ten or twelve years ago," the Baron proceeded, "I was travelling -from Munich to Berlin. Tired by the continual rumbling of my carriage, -I resolved upon taking a day's rest at Augsburg. It was the day -of All Souls. The autumnal sun was shining brightly, and a large -procession went its way towards the cemetery, a mile distant from the -town. Wherefore, I know not; but I was instinctively led to join this -procession. On arriving at the cemetery we found it, comparatively, -crowded. All the graves were decked with flowers and sprigs of -young cypress, and near every stone there sat or knelt, at least, -one mourner. Tears of love and regret wetted the sacred earth. In a -singularly agitated frame of mind, I wandered through the cemetery. The -recollection of departed friends, and of dear ones far away, made me -sad, unhappy, miserable. And I could not help thinking that if I had -been then entombed, no friendly hand would on that day have deposited -a wreath or a flower upon my grave, no beloved eye shed a tear of -sorrow, no faithful heart sent up to Heaven a fervent prayer for the -eternal rest of my soul. Haunted by such gloomy thoughts, I wandered -on, and at last came to a newly-made grave. An hour previously had -been buried in that spot a young girl of seventeen years of age. The -parents and the lover of the girl stood weeping near her grave, and -her young friends adorned the mound with freshly gathered flowers. -In a fit of profound melancholy, I bent down, mechanically picked up -a half-opened rose-bud, and walked on. Approaching the gate of the -cemetery, with the intention of returning to my hotel, my eyes fell -upon a tablet upon which were engraved the following words:--'Respect -the property of the Dead. Flowers are the property of the Dead.' These -simple words made a very great impression on my already excited mind: -and glancing, involuntarily, at the rose-bud which I still held in my -hand, my heart smote me for having carried it away from the girl's -grave. I was on the point of returning to re-deposit the flower, when -an indescribably false shame prevented my doing so, and I left the -cemetery with the rose in my hand. On returning to my hotel, I put it -in a glass of water, and placed it on a small table near the head of my -bed, upon which I threw myself, and soon fell into that state which all -of you must have experienced: a state in which the senses hover between -sleep and wakefulness, as though undecided which to choose. Suddenly -my apartment was filled by a bright but soft light, without my being -able to perceive whence it came. Be it known that I had extinguished -my candle. Ere long, the door of my room was opened; and in glided, -noiselessly, a pale spectral figure, clad in a white robe, and wearing -a garland of flowers. It was the figure of a young girl, and the face -was angelic. With motionless eyes and outstretched hand she approached -my couch, and in plaintive voice asked me: 'Why hast thou robbed the -Dead? Why hast thou taken that flower which a faithful lover threw upon -my last resting-place on earth?' Seemingly my pulses ceased to beat, -and I could scarcely breathe. The phantom then stretched forth the -left hand, and took the rose out of the glass; and with the right hand -she beckoned to me, saying: 'Come! Come, and give back the property of -the Dead. Respect the property of the Dead. Come! Follow me!' In vain -I tried to resist. I arose, and followed the figure out of the room -and into the deserted streets. It was not dark; for the moon was at -her full and shining brightly. Onward stalked the figure, I followed -her towards the cemetery. We arrived at the gate. She touched it. It -opened noiselessly. We entered. She led me to the grave--the grave from -which I had taken the flower. With trembling hand I received from hers -the rose, and placed it on the very spot whence I had removed it. And -then--" - -Here the Baron paused--and relighted his cigar. - -"Well--and then?" we all asked. - -"Then," replied the Baron, "I awoke--that is to say, if I had ever been -asleep. And looking in the tumbler in which I had placed the rose, I -discovered that it was gone." - -"The chambermaid, possibly; or the waiter, who may have entered your -apartment for orders, may have seen, admired, and carried it away while -you were slumbering," suggested the lively Frenchman; "and a very lucky -fellow you were, not to have missed your watch and your purse at the -same time and place." - -"No," said the Baron, shaking his head. - -"Perhaps," said Mr. West, "you had taken more wine than usual?" - -"No," was the reply. "The truth is that the story I have related to you -was written by that great Austrian wit and satirist, Saphir. It was one -of his earlier compositions, which, strange to say, were all of a very -melancholy cast. Saphir, however, to this day asserts that his story of -'The Death Rose' is a fact, and that it happened to himself." - -One by one, we dropped off to sleep, and slept for about an hour -and a-half. On awakening, the Frenchman, West, and myself, almost -simultaneously exclaimed, "Confound your Death Rose, Baron!" for the -truth was that the story had taken possession of our senses, while we -were asleep. - -"I thought it would," said the Baron laughing. "Everybody dreams of the -Death Rose after I have told the story. But, ah! See in the distance! -Here are the coolies returning! I can make out my guitar-box on the -head of one man. Ah! to-night we will sing plenty of songs!" - -And in the evening the Baron sang for several hours (we could have -listened to him all night) some of the most sentimental, and some of -the most humorous songs that I had ever heard. Fortunately I knew -enough of German to appreciate them; and my friend, Mr. West, was -equally fortunate. As for the Frenchman he understood and spoke--albeit -very imperfectly--every language current in Europe. On that night we -retired before twelve, for we had agreed to rise and proceed early on -the morrow. - -In pursuance of such agreement, as soon as the day dawned we struck -our tents, packed up our traps, loaded the coolies, and set out for a -place called Demooltee, distant some fourteen or fifteen miles. The -road, which had been very, very seldom travelled over by Europeans, -was a narrow and bad road, winding round and leading over lofty peaks, -some ten or eleven thousand feet above the level of the sea. Above us -and below us we frequently saw herds of Ghooral and other deer; but as -we could not, or would not rather, have stayed to pick up any that we -might kill, we suffered them to graze on, and preserved our ammunition. -By the way we saw an animal which none of as had ever seen before--an -animal called the Seron. It is a species of chamois, but larger and -stronger. Its colour was reddish, and it had a quantity of stiff, short -hair on the neck, which gave it the appearance of a hogged mane. The -native guides told us that it was a very shy animal, and only to be -found where there was a great quantity of wood. The scenery of this -part, in March, was exceedingly beautiful and varied. At times we had -a good view of Mussoorie and the surrounding country. At other times -we moved through vast forests of pine, and woods of oak, rhododendron, -and other magnificent trees. In the midst of one of these woods our -halting-place was situated, a large grassy flat, bounded on either side -by a deep and steep precipice, while in every direction the surrounding -mountains, which locked us in, were covered thickly with trees. - -"What fools men are," exclaimed the Baron, whilst the servants were -unpacking, "to huddle themselves together in old countries when lands -like these remain uncultivated and unenjoyed! And what fools are those -travellers who go, year after year, gazing on comparatively paltry -mountains and lakes which the eyes of the vulgar of all nations have -beheld, when such fresh and gorgeous scenery as this may be looked at! -Travelling in Switzerland and Italy--bah!" - -"But, my dear Baron," said the Frenchman, "you forget that the -Peninsular and Oriental Company demand four pounds a day for conveying -you from England to India, in consequence, they say, of the dearness of -coals." - -"Ah! well," laughed the Baron, opening with his own hand a bottle of -hock, and emptying the contents into a silver tankard, "if you regard -the matter in an economical point of view, you at once cut short my -argument and my sentiment. Egad! what grapes could be grown on yonder -hill, in that warm valley! What wine could be grown there! I will come -out to this country with a few German peasants. I will have vineyards. -I will make a fortune so colossal that Rothschild, when he is in -difficulties, will have to write to me. Yes, I will. The thing is to be -done, and I will do it." - -"But you forget," said Mr. West, "that you are now some twelve or -thirteen hundred miles from the nearest sea-port, Calcutta, and that -there would be some little difficulty in transmitting the produce to -Europe." - -"Europe! Europe! Why do you talk of Europe? Does not British India -contain enough of Europeans to make a market? This bottle of good wine -which we are going to drink costs twelve shillings in this country. -I could grow it, make it, and sell it for one shilling a bottle! Ah! -you may laugh; but I tell you this is the fact. I am a proprietor -of vineyards, and do not speak at random like a schoolboy, or an -enthusiast. The natives of the country would soon learn that art--for -an art it is--of wine-making; and, as for the soil, it is superb. Yes! -Grow wine, which would do your soldiers good. Generous wine, instead -of that blood-drying, brain-consuming, soul-destroying arrack--your -horrible grogs, and your bile-making beers." - -"But we have no roads, Baron." - -"True! But is there a scarcity of labour in India? Are pickaxes, -shovels, spades, saws, and gunpowder to blast rocks, so expensive that -a government cannot procure them? Roads! My good sir, only a few years -ago there was no road over the Splügen! The time was when you had no -road from Calcutta to Benares. You have no roads! Well, make them. The -wine and the tea that you grow will more than pay for them, as well as -remunerate the growers." - -"The tea?" asked Mr. West. - -"Yes, the tea, I said!" returned the Baron. "You have discovered that -you can grow tea in the lower range of these mountains, and you do grow -it in small quantities; now why not, having made the experiment, grow -it in _large_ quantities? I would say to Mr. Chinaman, 'I thank you -very much, but I do not want any more of your tea. You are insolent, -overbearing, and insulting in your dealings with me, and now you may -drink your own tea, and I will drink _my_ own tea; and, if you like, -you may stir yours with your own pigtail. We will bring China into our -own dominions, for God has given to this climate and to this soil the -same properties as your soil and climate possess.' I do not say it, -as you know, with any sort of intention to offend, but the result of -my experience leads me to believe that the government of this country -is, in all matters (save annexation), as slow as the government of -the Dutch was in by-gone days. There is a listlessness and a languor -about its movements; a want of everything in the shape of society and -enterprise, and seemingly such an earnest desire to discourage the -efforts of those who would in reality develop the resources of India, -that I am astonished any man unconnected with the services should -persevere in the attempt to make a living in the Eastern British -dominions." - -"I quite agree with you," said Mr. West, "especially as regards that -portion of your remarks which relates to the obstacles thrown in the -way of enterprising Englishmen. I have been a member of the Civil -Service for nearly ten years, and have always been impressed with the -idea that the policy of the government in respect to settlers in -India, was and is a very erroneous policy." - -The conversation here was brought abruptly to a close by the approach -of one of the guides, who, in a very confidential manner, imparted to -us that there was a kakur (a barking deer) grazing on a crag not far -from the encampment. So we seized our guns, went in pursuit, and were -fortunate enough to kill the animal. His bark resembles exactly that of -a Skye-terrier when very much excited. On our return to the encampment -we encountered a huge bear, and succeeded in killing and carrying him -to the door of our tent, where the natives skinned him and deprived him -of his fat, which they boiled down and used in the lamps instead of -oil. And very brightly did it burn; but the aroma was not a peculiarly -pleasant one. I am afraid to say how much grease was taken from this -enormous bear; but I know that I am speaking within bounds when I -assert it was in excess of two gallons and a half. - -We dined at dusk, and then, as usual, betook ourselves to whist, but -so cold did it become shortly after dark, that we were forced to put -on our great coats, notwithstanding there was an enormous wood fire -in front and at the back of our tent. These fires had been lighted -to serve another purpose beyond that of giving warmth--namely, to -scare away the leopards which abounded in that locality. It was a -very picturesque scene; the white tents standing out in relief from -the dark wood, lighted up by the fires, and here and there groups of -coolies wrapped up in blankets, and sitting as closely as possible to -the blaze. - -At daylight on the following morning our march was recommenced. We -had a distance of ten miles to travel before we could reach the next -halting-place, named Kanah Tall. During this march we did not go out -of our way for game, but only took such as chanced to cross our path. -All we killed was ghooral, (which we did not stop to look at even) and -two braces of partridges of very peculiar plumage. They were remarkably -handsome birds, with a red mark round the eye and down each side of -the neck, olive-coloured feathers on their backs, and their wings and -breasts covered with white and red spots. We could not fail to admire -the beauty of the flowers which flourished in this locality. The ground -on either side of the narrow and wild road was literally covered -with violets, dog-roses, and a lily of the valley, and other little -decorations of the earth, of which I know not the name. Throughout -the whole march the scene was truly fairy-like. Kanah Tall was only -five thousand feet above the level of the sea, and therefore very much -warmer than our last halting-place. Of this we were by no means sorry, -not only for our own sakes, but for the sakes of our personal servants, -who had never before travelled out of the plains. Here, at Kanah -Tall, we found the English holly growing. Botanists may tell me what -they please about this holly of the Himalayas bearing a distinctive -character; but I say it was the English holly--the same sort of holly -that I saw last Christmas in almost every house in London and in the -country. - -Here, at Kanah Tall, we shot no less than seven elks. These deer are -very plentiful hereabouts, and do a great deal of damage to the crops -of the poor villagers at harvest time. Ghooral and kakur also abound -here. We were so tired on the evening that we stopped at Kanah Tall -that we could not sit up to play at whist! We actually fell asleep over -our second rubber, and by general consent threw our cards upon the -table and sought our beds. - -The next day, at three P.M., we arrived at a place called Jullinghee, -ten miles distant from Kanah Tall. Jullinghee is a large village -situated on the right bank of the Bhagaruttee, a stream that flows -direct from Gungootrie, and is in consequence one of the most sacred -streams that compose the mighty and holy Ganges. We were encamped -beneath a clump of apricot and walnut trees, but it was frightfully -hot; for we were now not more than a couple of thousand feet above -the level of the sea. The woods, however, were exceedingly beautiful -and diversified. Not only were there apricot, walnut, rhododendrons, -oaks, hollies, and other trees of the higher altitudes, but also the -tamarind, the fig-peepul, the pomegranate, and others of the plains. -At this village we procured some honey, which is taken from its makers -in a very singular manner. The bees build in cavities in the walls of -the houses, which are closed within by a moveable board, and are only -entered by the bees, by a small aperture from without. When the owners -of the houses want honey they darken the interior of the house, and -removing the board, which forms the back part of the hive, extract as -much as they require. The bees during this process fly out into the -light to discover their enemies, who then close the back part of the -hive, and remain safely within doors until the wrath of the bees has -subsided. - -In the evening we took a walk in the village of Jullinghee, which -appeared to be rich and populous, but very dirty. Our arrival had -caused a great stir, and there was a large concourse of people near our -tents to look at us. A short distance from the village were the ruins -of several houses which once formed a separate hamlet, but which had -been deserted for fear of a ghost which was said to haunt it. The same -effect of superstition is by no means uncommon in the plains of India. -There is a very curious instance in the Meerut district. A village -had long been deserted under the idea that it was haunted by a fakir. -The settlement officer, however, with much difficulty prevailed upon -a neighbouring Zemindar to farm the land at something like a nominal -revenue. Shortly afterwards the Zemindar presented himself to the -settlement officer, and represented that he had been very ill, and -that the visitation was ascribed by his friends and by himself to his -impiety in interfering with haunted lands. The settlement officer, -however, talked to him and insisted on his keeping his engagements, -and once more did he venture to brave the ghost. So complete was his -success that the village shortly became one of the most flourishing -in the district, and the very relatives who had been foremost in -reproaching the zemindar for his impiety, brought a suit against him in -one of the local courts, to recover a share of his large profits! - -On the day following we marched to a place called Teree, a large -straggling village, situated on a plain of some extent, at the junction -of the Billung and Bhagaruttee rivers. A regular hot wind was blowing -here, and our tents were unbearable; so we threw ourselves beneath -the shade of a huge tree which grew on the banks of the Billung, and -which served also as a shelter for a party from Srinugger, who were -celebrating the marriage festival of a Bunneah (corn-merchant) of some -twenty-two years of age, with a young lady of eight. The little damsel -was on the ground, and did ample justice to the marriage dinner, which -consisted of rice, butter, sweetmeats, and a goat roasted whole--a goat -which had been decapitated by one blow, and cooked without any sort -of preparation beyond the removal of the entrails; it was not even -skinned. Portions of this feast were distributed on plantain leaves to -each guest by the Brahmins, who officiated as cooks and waiters. - -Teree is the residence of a Rajah, named Soodersain Saha, whose family, -before the Goorkha invasion, ruled over the provinces of Gurhwal and -Sirmoor, and indeed over the whole hill country as far as Simlah, -and from the snowy range to the plains. Expelled by the Goorkhas, he -sought refuge with the British: and after defeating the Goorkhas, -was replaced by us in the greater part of his territories; a part of -them we retained as the price of our assistance, namely, a portion of -Gurhwal, the whole of Dehra Dhoon, and a part of the Terai. And we hold -Landour and Mussoorie from him at a nominal annual rent. The Rajah is -extremely civil to Europeans, and the moment he heard of our arrival he -sent a deputation to wait upon us. The deputation brought with them a -variety of presents, consisting of milk, sweetmeats, dried flour, dried -fruits, and a couple of goats. The deputation gave us to understand -that it would afford the Rajah very great pleasure to make our personal -acquaintance; and we were just on the point of starting for his -Highness's abode, when his arrival was unexpectedly announced to us. At -Srinugger, in a portion of the country we took from him, is situated -the family palace, a handsome and substantial building. This is rather -a sore point with the old Rajah, and as he considers the more modern -abode which he now inhabits beneath his dignity, he prefers going to -see any one with whom he is desirous of having an interview. - -Having caused chairs to be placed in the front of our tents, we -advanced to meet the Rajah, who, dismounting from a large Cabul horse, -joined us, shook hands with us very cordially, and remained with us for -upwards of an hour. He was a very small and rather an old man; active -and intelligent. He talked to us about the Goorkha war, of which he -had been a spectator in the British camp; and he was very eloquent on -Punjab politics, and greatly praised Lena Singh, whom he described as -"very far in advance of any of his countrymen in point of humanity, -civilization, and prudence." The little man told us, amongst other -things, that he was thinking of having an iron suspension-bridge over -the Bhagaruttee, but that he could not find an engineer; and that his -applications to the Government, although he was ready to defray every -expense, had not met with any reply. The present bridge is a sling or -swing, and constructed in the following manner. Two lines of coir rope, -each consisting of a number of smaller ropes, are suspended from the -rocks on either side of the stream, and apart from each other about -four feet. From these ropes depend, at intervals of about two feet, -smaller lines or ropes about three or four feet deep. These support -slight wooden ladders, the ends of which are lashed firmly to one -another. The whole affair has a very frail appearance, and at first -it requires no small amount of nerve to step from ring to ring of the -ladder, over that roaring torrent beneath. Of course this bridge is -only passable by men. Cattle and mules swim across the river much -higher up, where the torrent is not so rapid. - -We asked the Rajah where he had got his idea of an iron suspension -bridge, and he replied: "From a picture-book which was given to me by a -gentleman who was out on a shooting excursion some years ago in these -hills." - -We stayed two days at Teree, and, despite the heat, enjoyed ourselves -amazingly. Our next encampment ground was at a place called Pon, a -march of eleven miles. Our route at first lay along the south bank of -the Billung river, and then up a deep glen at the foot of a mountain, -whose summit was some five thousand feet above the level of the ocean. -The monotony of this day's journey was broken by meeting with another -marriage party, some of whom carried parasols of evidently Chinese -manufacture, and made out of painted paper. We shot also several green -pigeons--a very different bird from the green pigeons of the plains, -and much better eating. By-the-by we also met a pilgrim and his wife on -their way to Gungootree, the source of the Ganges: both of them were -painted and bedaubed after the most grotesque fashion. The Frenchman -took a sketch of this couple, and I have heard that it now adorns an -album in the possession of the Empress of the French. - -Our next march was to a place called Tekowlee, where we halted beneath -the shade of some large trees, and near the banks of a clear stream -of water. On one side of the stream there grew a quantity of wild -mint, some of which we gathered and cooled, preparatory to using it -for "cup." There is a moderate-sized village near Tekowlee, and a -Gosains' house or monastery, which is inhabited by a large number of -this sect: we visited, and entered into conversation with them. The -building was composed of a large square court-yard, surrounded by a -range of two-storied barracks, or rather cells, the lower story of -which is protected by a verandah. The place was full of men, women, and -children: the Gosains being the only monastic order who are permitted -by their tenets to marry. - -We had been out sixteen days before we reached Loba, near to which -place the Commissioner of Kumaon resides during the rains and the -autumn. His bungalow is built upon the spur of a hill of considerable -length, and there is a good quantity of flat ground in the vicinity. -Not far from the bungalow is an old fort, a Goorkha stronghold, which -commanded the pass leading to Almorah. It is chiefly celebrated, -however, as the place where Moorcroft and Hearsey were discovered on -their return from the Munsarowar lake, whither they had gone disguised -as Bairagis; and so well had they sustained their characters, that -they would have returned undetected, had not a rumour of their attempt -reached the ears of the authorities and excited their vigilance. -They were harshly treated for some days, but eventually released on -a promise that they would return direct, and without delay, to the -British territories. - -The Commissioner was not at the bungalow when we arrived. Mr. West, -however, knew him sufficiently well to warrant our taking possession of -it for the day. After a residence for some time in tents, a house is a -very agreeable change. - -On leaving Loba we came upon the Pilgrim road, constructed by a -former Commissioner of Kumaon to facilitate the progress of the -pilgrims to the sacred places within the British Himalayas. It was -a very humane project, for many of the unfortunate pilgrims used -formerly--overcome by the difficulties of the route--to lie down and -perish by the way-side. Of these pilgrims we met swarms--hundreds, if -not thousands--and with some we occasionally stopped to converse. - -Our encamping ground, at which we arrived at four in the afternoon, was -a short distance from a village called Guniah. Our tents were pitched -beneath a clump of trees, and close to a clear stream called the Ram -Gunga, in which we caught a quantity of fish with a casting-net. There -are some mines between Loba and Kumaon, but we did not go out of our -way to visit them. Here an accident happened to the Baron. He sprained -his ankle and could not walk; so the next morning we put him into a -Dandi, and he was carried along the road by four of the coolies. A -Dandi is a pole, upon which is hung by its two ends, which are gathered -together, a piece of cloth or canvas, open in the centre. This forms -a hollow seat, not a particularly comfortable one, until you get -accustomed to it, when the motion is rather pleasurable than otherwise. -During this day's march we shot a quantity of black partridge, a hill -fox, a deer, and a wild dog of enormous size. - -On the third day after leaving Loba we sighted our (then) -destination--the town of Almorah. On nearing the place we came upon -a hill to the right, which bears the name of Brown's Hill; so called -after an officer of the 31st Native Infantry, who, in the Goorkha war, -volunteered to take it with his company, though it had a stockade on -the top which was obstinately defended. And he did take it, after a -very severe loss. A monument is erected on this hill to the memory of -those who fell in the engagement. A little further on is a large tree -now used as a gallows. This tree was the scene of a well-remembered -occurrence, just after the above-mentioned battle. A Goorkha, shot -through the leg, had fallen here. The fighting over, a British officer -was standing over him, and giving directions to a party of Sepoys to -have him taken to the hospital; when, raising himself with his left -hand, with his right he cut the officer down with his kookeree--a -deadly weapon with which the little Goorkhas now chop up the rebels. - -Apropos of a kookeree in the hands of a Goorkha, I must relate a -little matter which I now know to be a fact, but which I could scarcely -credit when it was first told to me. A party of Goorkhas--say fifteen -or twenty--will proceed to a jungle in which they know there is a huge -tiger. They will surround the jungle, form a circle, and closing in -gradually, hem in the ferocious beast. Every man will then drop down -on the right knee, as soldiers do forming a square, and, kookeree in -hand, wait for the spring of the tiger, who becomes somewhat bewildered -and anxious to make his escape. After moving about for a brief while in -this den, of which the bars are human beings (about five feet high), -and glaring first at one and then at another, he lashes himself into -a fury and makes his spring: then the nearest Goorkha delivers a blow -with his kookeree which divides the tiger's skull. Wonderful as this -feat is, I once saw at Jutog, near Simlah, a sight that struck me as -even more wonderful. A Goorkha battalion was (and now is) quartered -at Jutog. There was a festival at which the Goorkhas sacrifice an ox. -The adjutant of the battalion asked me if I should like to witness the -ceremony; as it was something new to me, I replied in the affirmative, -and we walked to the parade ground, where the whole regiment, in -undress, was assembled, and surrounding the victim and the executioner. -The ox was forced to kneel, and by the side of him knelt the little -Goorkha, armed with the kookeree, which is nothing more than a huge -curved knife, but very heavy, and as sharp as a razor. At a given -signal he struck the ox immediately behind the hump over the shoulder, -peculiar to all Indian cattle; and the body was divided into two parts. -He had, with a single blow, gone though the ox just as completely and -as cleanly as a butcher with his hatchet would remove a chop from -a loin of mutton. They are a very odd race of people, those little -Goorkhas; wonderfully honest even among themselves; light-hearted -almost to childishness; capable of enduring any amount of toil; -obedient and respectful, without cringing to, fawning on, or flattering -their superior, the white man. The great blot upon their characters is -their frightful jealousy of their wives. Woe betide the woman who gives -her Goorkha husband the faintest reason to suspect her of infidelity! -He at once takes the law and the kookeree into his own hands, and slays -both the wife and her (real or supposed) gallant. I am glad to say this -is not a frequent occurrence, though it does happen now and then. As a -body, the Goorkha women are as virtuous as their husbands are honest -and brave. - -The Commissioner of Kumaon received us at Almorah, his head-quarters, -with great cordiality and kindness, and offered us rooms in his house. -This offer we declined, inasmuch as our party consisted of four, and -his house was not a large one. Besides, he had other visitors who were -putting up at his bungalow. We accepted, however, his invitation to -dine, and on our way rode through the town, which is considered the -best in the British hill possessions. Bishop Heber writes that Almorah -reminds him of Chester. It consists of one street about a mile and a -half long, and about sixty feet wide, paved with large slabs of slate, -and closed at either end by a gate. One half of the town is much higher -than the other, and the street is divided in the middle by a low flight -of steps on which the ponies pass up and down with extraordinary -self-possession. The houses are small, but neat and whitewashed. -They all consist of two or more stories. The lower ones are shaded -by wooden verandahs more or less carved. At one end of the town is -the old Goorkha fort; at the other end Fort Moira, a small English -fortification, near to which were the Sepoy lines. A neat little church -has just been erected at Almorah. The people of the place are all -fair-complexioned, and some of the children as white as those born of -European parents. - - - - -RETURNING. - - -At Almorah I parted company with my foreign friends. They intended -crossing the mountains--the snowy range--to pay a visit to Kanawur. -This was a journey for which I had not much inclination; besides I was -doubtful whether I could breathe at an elevation of eighteen thousand -feet above the level of the sea. As it was, several of the coolies died -of cold and the rarity of the atmosphere. In fact, both of my friends -themselves had, as they informed me afterwards, a very narrow escape. -On several occasions they were compelled to huddle themselves amongst -the coolies in their tent, and the sheep which they were taking with -them for food were kept alive for the sake of the warmth they could -impart in the canvas abode. The grandeur of the scenery, they said, -would defy any attempt at describing it. What they most wondered at -was the impudence of that insect, man, in daring to climb up into such -regions. - -My friend, the assistant magistrate, had still a fortnight of unexpired -leave, and proposed to me that we should pay a visit to a friend of -his at an out-of-the-way station, called Bijnore. I had not the least -objection, and thither we went. We were most hospitably received, -partly out of regard for ourselves in particular, but chiefly because -our host had not seen a white face for five weeks. - -The cutcherry, or court-house, was undergoing repair, and the -magistrate, therefore, was obliged to administer the duties of his -office in his own abode, or rather in the verandah; for a large number -of half-clad natives in a hot country do not impart to a confined -space an agreeable perfume by any means. To me this scene--the native -court--was particularly interesting. There sat the covenanted official -in an arm-chair, with his solah hat on and a cheroot in his mouth, -listening very attentively to the sheristadar, or head clerk, who -was reading or singing aloud the entire proceedings in the case then -pending. - -The prisoner, surrounded by half-a-dozen native policemen, all with -drawn swords, was standing ten paces off. Ever and anon he interrupted -the court by protesting his innocence, and assuring the Sahib that -the whole of the depositions were false from beginning to end. This -interruption was usually--I may say invariably--rebuked by the -words, "Choop raho, suer!" ("Hold your tongue, you pig!") And, not -unfrequently the nearest policeman accompanied this mandate by giving -the culprit a smart blow on the back or a "dig in the ribs." I have -seen prisoners well thrashed in our Indian courts of justice by order -of the presiding magistrate for talking out of their turn; but that was -not the case in the present instance. No more violence was resorted -to than was absolutely necessary for the maintenance of order and the -progress of the trial. The offence of which the prisoner stood charged -was that of forging a bond for five hundred rupees, and suing thereon -for principal and interest. The defence was, that the signature to -the bond was not a forgery, and that the money had been advanced to -the prosecutor; to prove which, no fewer than seven witnesses were -called. Each of them swore, point blank, that, upon a certain day and -at a certain place, they saw the prisoner pay over the money, and saw -the prosecutor execute the deed. To rebut this, the prosecutor called -eleven witnesses who swore, point blank, that, upon the day and at the -hour mentioned as the day and hour on which the deed was executed, they -met the prosecutor at a village forty miles distant from Bijnore. In -short, if their testimony was to be relied upon, the eleven witnesses -had proved an alibi. - -This was one of those cases which happen continually in courts -of justice in India; where the magistrate or judge must not be, -and is not, guided by the oaths of the witnesses, but entirely by -circumstances. It is one of those cases, too, in which it would be -dangerous to consult the native officers of the court; for having -received bribes from both parties, their advice would be dictated -entirely by pecuniary considerations. With them the question would -be simply out of which party--the accused or the prosecutor--could -most money be got in the event of "guilty" or "not guilty." With -regard to the characters of the witnesses, they are pretty equal, and -generally very bad on both sides. Indeed, in nearly all these cases, -the witnesses are professionals; that is to say, men who are accustomed -to sell their oaths, and who thoroughly understand their business. They -know exactly what to say when they come into court, just as an actor, -who is letter perfect in his part, knows what to say when he comes on -the boards. In fact, a case is got up exactly as a play is. Each man -has his particular part and studies it separately; before the day of -trial comes they meet and rehearse, and go through "the business" till -they verily believe (such is my opinion) that they are not perjured, -but are speaking the truth. As for shaking the testimony of men so -trained to speak to a certain string of facts, I would defy the most -eminent nisi prius advocate in Europe. Besides, even if you should -reject one part of a statement, it does not follow, in a native court, -that you should reject the whole. The price paid to these professional -witnesses depends, in a great measure, on the nature and magnitude of -the cause. It is about twelve per cent. out of the sum in dispute. -I believe it is distributed amongst the witnesses, and the like sum -amongst the native officers of the court. This, of course, does not -include little extra presents given secretly to those who are supposed -to have the greatest amount of influence with the Sahib, and who -pretend that they will speak to him favourably. The personal servants, -also, of the European magistrate or judge expect some gratuity, and -hang about a client like the servants of badly regulated hotels where -attendance is not charged in the bill. It is this that makes litigation -so expensive in India that even the successful party is often ruined -before the suit is half concluded. - -"Tiffin is ready, Sahib," said the khansamah, coming into the verandah, -and placing his hands together in a supplicating attitude. "It is on -the table, Sahib." - -"Then we will adjourn," said the magistrate, bowing to me, and rising. -This was at once the signal for breaking up the day's proceedings. - -The tiffin over, we began to play at whist, and continued to do so -until the sun had lost his power, when the buggies were ordered, and we -took a drive in couples along a very bad road. It fell to my lot to be -the companion of the magistrate, a very able and excellent man: one of -the most efficient officers in the East India Company's civil service. -He was, moreover, an admirable linguist, and spoke Hindostanee as well -as any native. - -"You understood the proceedings to-day?" he asked me. - -"I followed them; yes." - -"And you heard the evidence?" - -"Yes." - -"What would you say? Is he guilty or not?" - -"I cannot say, although I have thought a good deal on the point. Even -while we were playing whist, to-day's proceedings were uppermost in my -mind. Nothing can be clearer than that either one side or the other is -perjured." - -"Both sides are perjured. If the bond be genuine, the men who really -witnessed the execution and who subscribed their names as witnesses -will not come forward, or else they are such fools that the native -lawyer for the defence will not trust to them lest they should be -confused and commit themselves." - -"But what do you think? Is the bond a genuine document or not?" - -"That is the very question. And when there is no evidence to weigh, how -are you to act?" - -"I suppose that in those cases you give the prisoner the benefit of the -doubt?" I remarked. - -"Not always. If I did that, I should acquit almost every culprit that -is brought before me, and so would every judge throughout the length -and breadth of the land. By the way, about a year ago, I sent a case to -the sessions judge--a case of murder. I fancied there could be no doubt -as to the guilt of the accused; which was the opinion of the sessions -judge and of the Sudder Court of Appeal. The man was hanged about six -weeks ago; and now I have discovered, beyond all question, that he was -hanged for the offence of which his prosecutor was guilty! It may be -all very well for people in England to rail at the administration of -justice in this country; but they would be less severe upon some of us -if they could only come out here and see the material with which we -have to deal. The administration of justice may be, I confess, very -much reformed and improved, but where the great bulk of the people -are corrupt, it can scarcely be in anything like a perfect state." -This statement, remember, was made, by a magistrate who speaks as -well as writes the native language as well as the natives themselves. -But conceive the confusion and injustice in those courts, where the -magistrates solely depend on corrupt moonshees for what they know of -the evidence. - -There is but very little twilight in India; and by the time that we had -returned from the drive it was dark. Shortly afterwards, dinner was -announced. Dinner over, we resumed our whist, and played until midnight. - -The following day was a native holiday--a Hindoo holiday. What with -Hindoo holidays and Mahommedan holidays, nearly a third of every year -is wasted: for, upon these days public business is suspended and the -various offices closed. It is devoutly to be hoped that, when our rule -in India is completely re-established, these absurd concessions--these -mere pretexts for idleness--will no longer be suffered to prevail. -It is only the pampered native servants of the Government, civil and -military, who are clamorous for the observance of these "great days," -as they call them. Go into the fields or ride through a bazaar on -one of these holidays and you will see the people at their work, and -the shopkeepers pursuing their respective avocations. You pass the -court-house, the treasury, the magistrate's office, and observe that -they are all shut up. You ask the reason, and are informed that it is -a native holiday. You go to an establishment founded and conducted by -private enterprise--a printing-office, for instance--and you observe -Hindoos of every caste, and Mussulmans also, at their daily labour. -Why? Because the head of such an establishment stipulates that those -who wish for employ must work all the year round, and they prefer -employ on such terms to no employ at all. So it is in some mercantile -firms in Calcutta, and at the other Presidencies; albeit such firms -experience very great inconvenience from the circumstance of the -Government banks being closed on these holidays; if a merchant wishes -to get a cheque cashed, or a bill discounted, he must wait sometimes -for days together. Even the doors of the Queen's courts are often -closed, and the judges and the counsel left unemployed, notwithstanding -that the litigants are British subjects; and this because the native -writers in these courts and the officers attached to them, are paid by -the Company's Government, which recognises absence from duty on these -holidays. - -It would be hard to deprive either of the great sects of certain -holidays in every year. The Doorgah-Poojah, for instance, or the -Mohurrum; but it is sheer folly, and profitless withal, to sanction -these constantly repeated interruptions to public business. The idlers -of the covenanted civil service in India are, naturally, in favour of -closing the doors of the various offices as often as possible; but the -hard-working portion, those men who take some interest in the discharge -of the duties for which they draw their pay, regard the native holidays -as an intolerable nuisance which ought, long since, to have been -abolished. - -Whilst we were enjoying ourselves after dinner, on the evening of the -Hindoo holiday, the khansamah came in, and announced that two Sahibs -had arrived. - -"Two Sahibs?" said our host. "Who are they?" - -"They are strangers to me, Sahib," said the khansamah, "and they do not -speak Hindostanee; but their bearers say that they are Lord Sahibs." - -"Who on earth can they be?" said the magistrate of Bijnore (loudly) to -himself; and, rising, he left the table to make inquiry in person, and -offer the travellers every hospitality. - -"O, I beg your pardon," said a voice from one of the palanquins. "But -would you be good enough to tell me where I am?" - -"You are at Bijnore," said the magistrate, blandly. - -"Bij-what?" - -"Bijnore." - -"Then, how far am I from Meerut?" - -"A very considerable distance--forty miles at least." - -"How the deuce is that?" - -"Well, sir--in the words of the Eton Latin Grammar--I may reply:-- - - Felix qui potuit rerum cognoscere causas. - -But where have you come from?" - -"From Seharry something or other; but confound these nores, and pores, -and bores! There's no recollecting the name of any place, for an hour -together. The magistrate--I forget his name just now; but it was -Radley, Bradley, Bagley, Ragley, or Cragley, or some such name--told me -he would push me on to Meerut, and here am I, it seems, forty miles out -of my road! Well, look here. I am Lord Jamleigh." - -"Indeed! Well, you are welcome to some refreshment and repose in my -home, in common with your friend; and whenever you desire to be 'pushed -on,' I will exert my authority to the utmost to further your views." - -"O, thank you. My friend is my valet. Here, Mexton, jump out and take -my things into a room." - -While Mexton is obeying this order, and while his lordship is following -his host, let us inform the reader who his lordship was, and what was -the object of his mission to India. - -His lordship was a young nobleman, who was about to enter Parliament, -and, being desirous of acquiring information concerning India in -order to be very strong when the question for renewing the charter -came on in eighteen hundred and fifty-two or fifty-three, he resolved -on travelling in the country for a few months: the entire period of -his absence from home, including the journey overland, not to exceed -half a year. After a passage of thirty-four days--having already seen -the Island of Ceylon, and approved of it--his lordship landed at -Madras, was carried up to Government house, where he took a hasty -tiffin, and was then carried back to the beach, whence he reembarked -on board the steamer, and was, three days afterwards, landed at the -Ghaut in Calcutta, where he found a carriage ready to convey him -to the vice-regal dwelling. After two days' stay, he was "pushed -on," at his own request, to the Upper Provinces: his destination -being Lahore. The newspapers got hold of his name, and came out with -something of this kind:--"Amongst the passengers by the _Bentinck_ -is Lord Jamleigh, eldest son of the Right Honourable the Earl of -Dapperleigh. His lordship leaves Calcutta this evening, and will -pass through the following stations." Then came a list. At many of -the stations he was met--officiously met, by gentlemen in authority, -who dragged--literally dragged--him, in their anxiety to have a lord -for a guest, to their houses, and kept him there as long as they -could: taking care to have the north-west journals informed of where -and with whom his lordship had put up. He was not allowed to stay -at a dâk bungalow for an hour or two, and then proceed, taking--in -the strictest sense of the phrase--his bird's-eye view of India, its -people, its institutions, and so forth. Some of them threw obstacles -in the way of his getting bearers, so that he might remain with them -for four-and-twenty hours, and thus thoroughly impregnate and air their -houses with an aristocratical atmosphere. Others lugged him to their -courts and collectorates, albeit he had seen one of each at Burdwan and -Bengal, and consequently had seen the working of the Indian judicial -and revenue departments, and knew all about them! This sycophantic -importunity of a few government officials soured his lordship's temper, -which imparted to his manners a rudeness which was perhaps foreign to -his nature. His lordship was led to believe that _all_ Indian officials -were a parcel of sycophants--progress-impeding sycophants--and hence -he grew to treat them all alike: and he did not scruple, at last, to -extract his information from them much in the same way that a petulant -judge who has lost all patience with a rambling witness, takes him -out of the hands of counsel, and brings him sharply to the point. For -instance, "I know all about that, but tell me this,"--note-book in -hand--would Lord Jamleigh in such wise frequently interrogate his civil -hosts, who insisted on doing themselves the honour of entertaining -his lordship. The fact was that, in his own opinion, he knew all -about India and its affairs long before he touched the soil, for he -had read a good deal in blue books and newspapers. His object, as we -have before hinted, was simply to see the country and travel in it, or -through it, and thus arm himself with a tremendous and telling weapon -in a contested debate, should he take part therein. And therefore -when his lordship asked questions it was not so much with a view to -obtain information as to test the accuracy of that already acquired -by reading, over the fireside in the library, of his father's mansion -in Bagdad Square. Thus, the entries in his lordship's note-book were, -after all, merely a matter of form. - -Having divested himself of the dust with which he was covered, and -having restored himself to his personal comforts, his lordship joined -our little party, and partook of some dinner which the khansamah had -prepared for him. His repast concluded, his lordship moistened his -throat with a glass of cool claret, and proceeded, in his own manner, -to interrogate his host, who was not only an accomplished scholar, but -a ready and refined wit. It was thus that the dialogue was commenced -and continued:-- - -"What is the number of inhabitants in this district?" asked the noble -guest. - -"Upon my word I don't know; I have never counted them," said the host. - -"But have you no idea? Can't you give a guess?" - -"Oh, yes; some hundreds of thousands." - -"Ah! And crime--much crime!" his lordship persevered. - -"Very much. But we are going to reduce it, during the ensuing -half-year, exactly thirty-three and a-half per cent.," answered the -magistrate, looking uncommonly statistical. - -"How?" - -"Well, that is what my assistant and myself have decided upon." - -"I do not understand you. How can you possibly say at this moment -whether, during the next six months, the amount of crime shall be -greater or less?" His lordship was puzzled. - -"How? Why just in the same way that the directors of a joint-stock bank -determine in their parlour what shall be the amount of dividend payable -to shareholders. My assistant wanted to make a reduction of fifty per -centum on the last returns; but I think thirty-three and a-half will be -a very fair figure." - -"You intend, perhaps, to be more severe?" said the young legislator. - -"Nothing of the kind. On the contrary, we intend to be less energetic -by thirty-three and a-half per cent.--to take matters more easily, in -short." - -"I wish I knew what you meant." - -"I will explain it to you." - -"As briefly as possible, please." His lordship did not want to be -bored, evidently. - -"By all means." - -"I only want facts, you see." - -"And I am about to give you facts--dry facts." - -"Well?" - -"The facts are these. There is a district in these provinces nearly -twice the size of this, and it contains nearly double the number of -inhabitants." - -"Yes." - -"During the past half-year, the number of convictions in that district -has been very much less than the number of convictions in this -district. And the Sudder Court of Appeal has come to the conclusion, on -looking at the figures in the official return, that the proportion of -crime to population, in this district, is greater than it is in that -district." - -"Very naturally." - -"Indeed? But suppose that the magistrate of that district only attends -his court once or twice a-week, and then only for an hour or two on -those days; and suppose that his assistant is a young man who makes -sport his occupation and his business, and business his recreation and -his sport. And suppose that I and my assistant work hard, and do our -best to hunt up all the murderers, thieves, and other culprits, whom -we hear of, and bring them to justice and to punishment. What then? -Are the figures in the official returns, touching the convictions, to -be taken as any criterion of the crime perpetrated in our respective -districts?" His worship delivered these questions triumphantly. - -"In that case, certainly not." - -"Well, the Sudder have looked at the convictions, and the consequence -has been, that in the last printed report issued by that august body -(composed of three old and imbecile gentlemen) to the Government, the -magistrate of that district and his assistant have been praised for -their zeal, and recommended for promotion, while the magistrate and -assistant of this district have been publicly censured; or, to use the -cant phrase of the report, 'handed up for the consideration of the Most -Noble the Governor-General of India.'" - -"Is it possible?" asked the Lord, throwing up his hands. - -"You ask for dry facts, and I have given you dry facts." - -"May I make a note of this?" (pulling out an elegant souvenir). "Not -that I should think of mentioning your name." - -"You may make a note of it; and, so far as mentioning my name is -concerned, you may do as you please. I have already written to the -Sudder what I have stated to you," was the answer. - -"What! about the thirty-three and a-half per cent?" - -"Yes; and, what is more, I have insisted on a copy of the letter being -forwarded to the Governor-General." - -"And what will be the result, do you suppose?" - -"I neither know nor care. I have just served my time in this penal -country; and, being entitled to both my pardon and my pension, I intend -to apply shortly for both." - -The reader will be glad to hear that a long correspondence ensued on -this subject between the Sudder, the Government, and the mutinous -magistrate. The upshot was, that the imbecile old men who had too -long warmed that tribunal were pushed off their stools by the -Governor-General (Lord Dalhousie), who, very meritoriously, bullied -them into resigning the service; threatening, as some say, to hold a -commission on their capacity for office. In their stead were appointed -three gentlemen, whose abilities and vigour had hitherto been kept in -the back settlements of India. The crowning point of all was, that the -mutinous magistrate was one of the illustrious three! - -Lord Jamleigh informed us that he had seen Lahore, and that he was -about to go across the country to Bombay, and that he should then have -seen all three Presidencies, as well as all the Upper Provinces, and -the Punjab. He regretted, half apologetically, that he had not been -able to take a look at the Himalayas, Simlah and Mussoorie; but the -fact was, "he was so much pressed for time." - -"Poor devils!" exclaimed our host, smiling. "But, as they won't know -anything about it, they won't feel it much--indeed, not at all." - -"To whom are you alluding?" asked my lord. - -"The Himalayas," sighed our host, passing the claret to his lordship, -who, by this time, had discovered that he had not got into a nest of -sycophants, who worshipped a title, no matter how frivolous or how -insolent the man might be who wore it; but that he had accidentally -fallen into the company of persons of independent character; and -albeit, they were desirous of giving him a welcome and making him -comfortable--being a stranger who had lost his way--nevertheless, were -determined to make him pay in some shape for the want of courtesy he -had exhibited when the bearers set his palkee down at the door of the -bungalow. This discovery made his lordship a little uncomfortable, and -rather cautious in his observations. He felt, in short, as one who -knows that he has committed an error, and that some penalty will be -exacted; but what penalty, and how exacted, he cannot imagine. Had he -been able to get away, he would probably have taken a hasty farewell of -us. But that was impossible. His jaded bearers were cooking their food, -and, until twelve o'clock, there was no hope of getting them together. - -The khansamah came in with a fresh bottle of wine. Our host, -withdrawing his cigar from his lips, inquired of him if the wants of -the gentleman's servant had been attended to. - -"Yes, Sahib," was the reply. - -"And have you given him any champagne?" - -"No, Sahib." - -"Then do." - -"Oh, pray do nothing of the kind!" exclaimed his Lordship. "He is not -accustomed to it." - -"Then he will enjoy it all the more," said our host. "I hope he is -taking notes, and will write a book on India. I should much like -to see his impressions in print; and he may possibly dignify me by -devoting a few lines to the character of my hospitality. It is to be -hoped, however, that, should his travel inspire him with a thirst for -literary distinction, he will confine himself to a personal compilation -of his experience, and not go into judicial or revenue matters; for, -should he do so, you may find yourself clashing with him, and that -would be awkward. His publisher's critic might be inclined to break -a spear with your publisher's critic, in their respective reviews of -your respective works, and it would be quite impossible to conjecture -where the controversy might end. Indisposed as I am, generally, to -obtrude my advice upon any one, and much less on a perfect stranger, I -nevertheless feel that I am only doing you a kindness when I say that, -if I were you, I would regard Hindostan as a sort of Juan Fernandez, -myself the Crusoe thereof, and this valet as my man Friday; and then, -with a due observance of that line of demarcation which should always -be drawn between civilised man and the savage, I would not permit him -to keep even a stick whereon to notch the day or time of any particular -event that occurred during my residence in the country, lest he should -some day or other--in consequence of my having discharged him, or he -having discharged me--rise up and instigate some man or other to call -in question the accuracy of my facts. The wine is with you; will you -fill, and pass it on?" - -Lord Jamleigh became very red in the face, and rather confused both in -manner and speech. As for myself and the two assistant-magistrates, -there was something so benignant in the expression of our host's -handsome and dignified countenance--something so quaintly sarcastic in -the tone and manner of his discourse, that, had we known that death was -the penalty of not maintaining the gravity of our features, our lives -would certainly have been forfeited. - -A silence for several minutes ensued; and then Lord Jamleigh spoke to -our host as follows:-- - -"Most of the young noblemen who come to this country, come only to -travel about and amuse themselves. I come on business--I may say, -Parliamentary business. My time is short, and I must make the most of -it. I dare say, when you saw my name in the papers, as having arrived -in India, you little thought that I was not a man of pleasure and -excursion?" - -"Upon my word, the subject never once became a matter of speculation -with me," said our host. - -After some further conversation, in which our host spared his visitor -as little as was consistent with good breeding, Lord Jamleigh, who had -been "sitting upon thorns," rose and said:-- - -"I am afraid I have already trespassed on your goodness too long. I -will not attempt to apolo--apolo--or to express how much--how much; nor -to assure you that--assure you--that when--" - -"Oh, pray don't mention it!" said our host, smiling. "You desire your -palkee?" - -"If you please," said Lord Jamleigh. - -The palkee was ordered, and we were standing in expectation that -it would be instantly announced as "ready," when the sirdar-bearer -(head personal attendant) came into the room, in a state of excessive -trepidation, and informed us that the Sahib's Sahib (Lord Jamleigh's -valet) was drunk, asleep, and refused to be disturbed on any pretence -whatever. - -This announcement, which caused general merriment, induced Lord -Jamleigh to ejaculate:-- - -"That's the champagne, I suspected as much!" - -"Where is he?" inquired our host of the sirdar-bearer. "In his palkee?" - -"No, Sahib," was the reply. "He is lying on that Sahib's bed," pointing -to me. - -Here, again, everybody laughed, except myself. I was rather angry, -being somewhat particular on this point. So I suggested that he might -be put into his vehicle at once. The native servants, of course, were -afraid to touch him, lest he should awake and "hit out;" so we, the -five of us, Europeans, the magistrate, the two assistant magistrates, -Lord Jamleigh, and myself, had to lift, remove, and pack in his palkee, -the overcome, and perfectly unconscious valet. He must have been -sipping brandy-and water before he came to the bungalow, for he had -only half finished his bottle of champagne. Lord Jamleigh now got into -his palanquin, and composed himself for the night, or, rather, the -remainder of it, and in order that there might be no mistake as to his -Lordship's destination, the magistrate sent a horseman to accompany -the cortège, with directions that "the Sahibs" were to be taken to -Durowlah, on the road to Meerut, and to the house of the magistrate, -by whom Lord Jamleigh had been invited, or rather, "petitioned," to -stay with him, should he pass through that station, and (to use his -Lordship's own terms), as he had promised to do so, he supposed that he -must keep his word. When a palanquin is escorted by a sowar, the sowar -when the destination is approached, rides on and gives notice that a -lady, or gentleman, as the case may be, is coming; and, as the natives -of India can never pronounce European names properly, the precaution is -usually taken of writing down the name of the traveller on a card, or -a slip of paper, and giving it to the sowar. In this case, "Viscount -Jamleigh" was written down for the guidance and information of the -Durowlah functionary. - -It was about seven A.M. when this card was put into the hands of the -gentleman who had invited Lord Jamleigh; whom, by the way, he had -never seen. The bungalow was immediately all life and in commotion; -the servants ordered to prepare tea and coffee; the best bed-room -vacated by the present occupants; hot water in readiness; and ere long -a palkee--a single palkee--loomed in the distance; the other palkee -was a long way, some three miles, behind. One of the bearers who was -carrying it, had fallen and injured himself, and thus was a delay -of an hour and a half occasioned. And during that hour and half a -pretty mistake was committed. The first palkee was that containing the -valet, and the one behind was that of his lordship. The valet had not -recovered the effects of his potations; and, on being awakened, seemed, -and really was, bewildered and stupified--so much so, that he could not -inform the magistrate that he was "only a servant," and not entitled -to the attentions that were showered upon him. With trembling hand, he -took the cup of tea from the silver salver, and gazing wildly round, -murmured, rather than said-- - -"Brandy! Little Brandy!" which was at once brought and administered. -He then had his warm "wash," sat down on the best bed, and suffered -himself to be punkahed by two domestics in snow-white garments. This -revived him somewhat; but still he felt far too ill to talk. He simply -shook his head, and there was a good deal of meaning in that shake, if -the magistrate could only have understood it. - -"Take some brandy and soda-water, my lord," said his host. - -The valet nodded assent. - -The magistrate mixed the dose, and administered it with his own hands. - -The valet sighed, and again shook his head. - -"You will be better presently, my lord," said the magistrate. - -"Drunk as a lord!" hiccuped the valet. - -"O, no, my lord! It was the jolting along the road." - -"In that coffin?" said the valet, who now began to regain the use of -his tongue. - -"Yes, my lord." - -"Am I a lord? He, he, he! Where am I?" - -"At Durowlah, my lord." - -"And who are _you_?" - -"Your host, my lord." - -"Then this is not the station-house?" - -"Not exactly, my lord." - -"Give us a little drop more of that last brew." - -"Yes, my lord." - -"Ah! Thank you! I feel better now--much better. It was that champagne. -Good it was, though. What place was that we were at?" - -"Bijnore, my lord." - -"I'm not a lord." - -"Would that I were in your place, my lord!" - -"Well, it isn't a bad place," grinned the valet. "Plenty to eat and -drink, little to do, and good wages. But hang this Hindyer! It was a -mistake altogether!" - -The magistrate took this for fun, laughed immensely, and then said:-- - -"We had Lord Frederick Pontasguieure staying with us for a week, last -winter. A very amusing character he was." - -"O, had you? Was he amusing? O! We don't keep his company. Don't know -him. I'd give a five-pound note to be in Piccadilly at this moment. -This is a nice mess. But the traps are all right, I see. There's the -dressing-case, and the writing-desk, and the little medicine-chest." - -"Recline upon the bed, my lord, and have a gentle sleep. The punkah, -you will find, will very speedily lull you to repose." - -"Well, I will," said the valet; and soon fell fast asleep. The -venetians were then closed, and the house kept as quiet as possible. - -When Lord Jamleigh himself arrived, and established his identity, the -scene that ensued may be easily imagined. - -The magistrate, with a marvellous want of tact, acknowledged the -mistake that he had made: told, in fact, the whole uncomplimentary -truth. Lord Jamleigh, and perhaps with reason, was dreadfully annoyed -at the idea that the servant should have been mistaken for himself; -but he let out, however, that that was the third time the thing had -happened, and that in future he should insist upon the fellow wearing -livery, instead of plain clothes, and a black wide-awake hat. - -The valet was speedily lifted out of the best bed, and transferred to -another apartment, where he slept himself sober, and arose at about -half-past one to explain to his lordship that he was not much in fault. - -I would advise all noblemen and gentlemen who, like Lord Jamleigh, -would take a bird's-eye look at India, not to travel with an European -servant, who, in that country, is as helpless as an infant, and quite -as troublesome, besides being in the way of everybody in every house. -It is, moreover, cruel to the servant. He can talk to no one, and -becomes perfectly miserable. - - - - -MISCELLANEOUS. - - -The house of a civilian (a magistrate and collector) in the heart of a -district, such as Bijnore, is really worthy of contemplation. With the -exception of a bungalow, which is usually occupied by the assistant, -and which may, therefore, be said to belong to the magistrate's house, -there is no other Christian abode within five-and-thirty or forty -miles. The house is usually well, but not extravagantly, furnished; the -walls are adorned with prints and pictures, and the shelves well stored -with books. In a word, if the punkahs and the venetian blinds, the -therm-antidotes, and sundry other Indian peculiarities were removed, -you might fancy yourself in some large country-house in England. - -There was at Bijnore a native moonshee who was a very good scholar; -and, as I was anxious to read Hindostanee and Persian with him (the -more especially as I much enjoyed the society of mine host and his -assistant), I was induced to accept an invitation to remain for a -month. During this period I studied for several hours a-day, besides -attending the Court House regularly, to listen to the proceedings, and -acquire some knowledge of a most extraordinary jargon, composed of a -little Hindostanee, a little Persian, and a good deal of Arabic. This -jargon is known in India as the language of the courts. A good Persian -and Hindostanee scholar cannot understand it, unless he is accustomed -to it. Many magistrates and judges have insisted upon having pure -Hindostanee spoken; but to no purpose. Up to a recent period, Persian -mixed with Arabic was the language in which legal proceedings were -conducted,--Persian and Arabic being as foreign languages to the people -of India as English, German, or French. And, when the order went forth -that Hindostanee was to be used, the native officers of the courts, -and the native lawyers who practised therein, complied with it by -putting a Hindostanee verb at the end of each sentence, and using the -Hindostanee pronouns, retaining in all their integrity (or rascality) -the Persian and Arabic adverbs, prepositions, nouns, adjectives, and -conjunctions. An indigo planter in Tahoot, who spoke Hindostanee -perfectly, having lived amongst the natives for upwards of twenty -years, assured me that he did not comprehend a single sentence of a -decree in court Hindostanee, that he heard read out to him--a decree in -a case to which he was a party. What is even more absurd, each court -has its own peculiar jargon, so that the magistrate or judge, who from -long experience has acquired a thorough knowledge of the jargon of his -own court, has very great difficulty in comprehending the jargon of -another court. This might be altered by fining any officer of court, or -native lawyer, who, in matters connected with a suit, used words and -phrases unintelligible to the mass of the people; but the order would -have to emanate from Government. No magistrate or judge would venture -on even an attempt to bring about so desirable a reform. - -Whilst at Bijnore, I was seized with an attack of tic-douloureux, and -suffered all its extreme agonies. One of my host's servants informed me -that there was a very clever native doctor in the village, who could -immediately assuage any pain--tooth-ache, for instance--and he begged -permission to bring him to see me. I consented. - -The native doctor was a tall, thin Mussulman, with a lofty forehead, -small black eyes, long aquiline nose, and finely chiselled mouth and -chin. His hair, eye-brows, and long beard were of a yellowish white, -or cream colour. Standing before me in his skull-cap, he was about the -most singular looking person I ever beheld. His age did not exceed -forty-four or forty-five years. He put several questions to me, but -I was in too great pain to give him any replies. He begged of me to -sit down. I obeyed him, mechanically. Seating himself in a chair -immediately opposite to me, he looked very intently into my eyes. After -a little while, his gaze became disagreeable, and I endeavoured to turn -my head aside, but I was unable to do so. I now felt that I was being -mesmerized. Observing, I suppose, an expression of anxiety, if not of -fear, on my features, he bade me not to be alarmed. I longed to order -him to cease; but, as the pain was becoming less and less acute, and -as I retained my consciousness intact, I suffered him to proceed. To -tell the truth, I doubt whether I could have uttered a sound. At all -events, I did not make the attempt. Presently, that is to say, after -two or three minutes, the pain had entirely left me, and I felt what is -commonly called, all in a glow. The native doctor now removed his eyes -from off mine, and inquired if I were better. My reply, which I had no -difficulty in giving at once, was in the affirmative; in short, that I -was completely cured. Observing that he placed his hands over his head, -and pressed his skull, I asked him if he were suffering. - -"Yes, slightly," was his reply; "but I am so accustomed to it, it gives -me but little inconvenience." - -I then begged of him to explain to me how it was that he had the power -to afford me such miraculous relief. That, he said, he was unable to -do. He did not know. I then talked to him of mesmerism and of the -wonderful performances of Dr. Esdaile, in the Calcutta hospital. He -had lately heard of mesmerism, he said; but, years before he heard of -it, he was in the habit of curing people by assuaging their pain. The -gift had been given to him soon after he attained manhood. That, with -one exception, and that was in the case of a Keranee--a half-caste--no -patient had ever fallen asleep, or had become beehosh (unconscious), -under his gaze. "The case of the half-caste," he went on to say, -"alarmed me. He fell asleep, and slept for twelve hours, snoring like -a man in a state of intoxication." I was not the first European he had -operated upon, he said; that in Bareilly, where he formerly lived, he -had afforded relief to many officers and to several ladies. Some had -tooth-ache, some tic-douloureux, some other pains. "But," he exclaimed, -energetically, "the most extraordinary case I ever had, was that of a -Sahib who had gone mad--'drink delirious.' His wife would not suffer -him to be strapped down, and he was so violent that it took four or -five other Sahibs to hold him. I was sent for, and, at first, had great -difficulty with him and much trembling. At last, however, I locked his -eyes up, as soon as I got him to look at me, and kept him for several -hours as quiet as a mouse, during which time he had no brandy, no -wine, no beer; and, though he did not sleep, he had a good long rest. -I stayed with him for two days, and whatever I told him to do he did -immediately. He had great sorrow on his mind, poor man. Three of his -children had died of fever within one short week, and he had lost much -money by the failure of an agency-house in Calcutta. There was a cattle -serjeant, too, an European, whom I also cured of that drinking madness -by locking up his eyes." - -"What do you mean by locking up his eyes?" - -"Well, what I did with you; I locked up your eyes. When I got his eyes -fixed on mine, he could not take them away--could not move." - -"But can you lock up any one's eyes in the way that you locked up mine?" - -"No; not everybody's. There was an artillery captain once who defied -me to lock up his eyes. I tried very hard; but, instead of locking up -his, he locked up mine, and I could not move till he permitted me. And -there was a lady, the wife of a judge, who had pains in the head, which -I could not cure, because she locked up my eyes. With her I trembled -much, by straining every nerve, but it was of no use." - -"Do you know any other native who has the same power that you possess?" - -"Only three; but, I dare say, there may be hundreds in these provinces -who have it, and who use it. And now, Sahib," said the native doctor, -taking from his kummerbund (the cloth that encircles the waist) a -bundle of papers, "I desire to show you some of my certificates, at -the same time to beg of you to pardon my apparent want of respect in -appearing in your presence in this skull-cap instead of a turban; but -the fact is, that when I heard you were in such great pain, I did not -think it humane to delay until I had adorned myself." - -I proceeded to examine very carefully every one of his many -certificates; not that I was in any way interested in them, but -because I knew it would afford him great pleasure. In all, they -were quite as numerous as those which English charlatans publish in -testimony of their skill in extracting corns. They were more elaborate -however; for it is by the length of a certificate that a native judges -of its value--just in the same way that Partridge, when Tom Jones took -him to see _Hamlet_, admired the character of the King, because he -spoke louder than any of the company, "anybody could see that he was a -king." As for myself, I sat down and covered a whole sheet of foolscap -in acknowledgment of my gratitude to Mustapha Khan Bahadoor, for having -delivered me from unendurable torments. To my certificate I pinned a -cheque on the North-West Bank for one hundred rupees (ten pounds), -and, presenting both documents to the doctor, permitted him to take -his leave. Some months afterwards, on discovering that this cheque had -not been presented for payment, I wrote to the assistant-magistrate, -and asked him, as a favour, to send for the native doctor, and obtain -some information on the subject. In reply, I was informed that the -doctor preferred keeping the cheque appended to my certificate as an -imperishable memorial of the extraordinary value in which his services -had been held by an European gentleman, and that he would not part with -it for ten times the amount in gold or silver. Such a strange people -are the natives of India! Their cupidity is enormous certainly, but -their vanity (I am speaking of the better class) is even greater. -One hundred rupees was equal to half a year's earnings of the native -doctor, and yet he preferred holding the useless autograph of an -insignificant Sahib like myself for the amount rather than realize it. -The native doctor evidently reasoned thus:--"I might spend the one -hundred rupees, might not be believed if I made the assertion that I -had received it; but here is the voucher." Some may imagine that he -kept it as a sort of decoy-duck; but this I am perfectly satisfied was -not the case. - -I was now about to leave Bijnore, and, as time was of no object to me, -I made up my mind to travel no more by palkee, or horse dâk, but in the -most independent and comfortable manner. I therefore provided myself -with two small tents, and two camels to carry them, two bullocks to -carry the tent furniture, my baggage, and stores; a pony for my own -riding, and a similar animal for a boy khitmutghur, who was also my -personal servant or bearer. - -I engaged also a cook and a sweeper, or general helper; so that, when -the sawans (camel drivers), the bullock-man, and the syces (grooms), -were included, my establishment numbered, in all, eight servants, -whose pay in the aggregate amounted to fifty rupees (five pounds) per -mensem. This, of course, included their "keep," for they provided -themselves with food. The expense of keeping the camels, the bullocks, -and the ponies, was, in all, thirty-five rupees (three pounds fifteen -shillings) per mensem; while my own expenses, including everything -(except beer and cheroots), were not in excess of fifty rupees per -month; so that I was thus enabled to travel about India at a cost -of not more than two hundred pounds per annum, or two hundred and -twenty-five pounds at the very outside. The reader must remember that -in almost every one of the villages in India, fowls, eggs, rice, flour, -native vegetables, curry stuff, and milk are procurable, and at very -small prices, if your servants do not cheat you, and mine did not; for -I made an agreement with my boy khitmutghur to that effect; indeed, I -entered into a regular contract with him previous to starting, touching -the purchase of every article that would be required during my journey. -This boy was, in short, my commissariat department. His name was -Shumsheer (a word signifying in the Persian language, "a sword"), but -he generally went by the name of Sham. He had been for several months -in the service of the assistant magistrate of Bijnore; who, as a very -great favour, permitted the boy to accompany me on my travels; he was -so clever, so sharp, so intelligent, and so active a servant. He was -not more than sixteen, and very short, for his age; but stoutly built, -and as strong as a young lion. He was, moreover, very good-looking, and -had, for a native of Hindoostan, a very fair complexion. He had been -for several years the servant, or page, of an officer on the staff of -a governor-general, and he spoke English with considerable fluency, -but with an idiom so quaint, that it was amusing in the last degree to -listen to him. He had been "spoilt," in one sense of the word, while at -Government House, not only by his own master, but by the whole staff, -who had encouraged him to give his opinions on all subjects with a -freedom which was at first very disagreeable to me. But, ere long, I -too encouraged him to do so; his opinions were so replete with such -strong common sense, and were expressed in such an original fashion. -If an inquiry touching a certain administration had been called for -by Parliament, what an invaluable witness would that boy have been -before a Committee of either house--provided he had not been previously -"tampered with!" - -When all my preparations had been completed, I took leave of my -friends, and left Bijnore at three o'clock one morning. My destination -was Umballah. I did not take the main road; but a shorter cut across -the country, conducted by a guide who knew the district well, and who -was enjoined to procure for me another guide as soon as his information -failed him. - -By seven o'clock we had travelled over twelve miles of ground, and -as the sun was beginning to be very warm, I commanded a halt. Our -tents were then pitched beneath a tope (cluster) of mango-trees whose -branches formed a dense shade. Having bathed, breakfasted, smoked, -and read several pages of a Persian book, I fell asleep, and was not -awakened until noon, when Sham came into my tent and reported that -there was an abundance of black partridge in the neighbourhood: he -then proposed that I should dine early--at one P.M.--and at half past -four take my gun; and, permitting him to take another, sally forth in -search of the game. To this proposal I at once assented, and removing -my camp stool to the opening of my little hill tent, I looked out into -the fields, where I saw some men ploughing. For the first time during -my travels I was struck with the appearance of the instrument which the -natives use for tilling the soil; an instrument which, in fact, closely -resembles that used by the Romans, according to the directions laid -down in the Georgics: - - "Curvi formam adcipit ulmus aratri," &c., &c., - -and at first I felt some surprise that an implement so apparently -ill-fitted for the purpose for which it is designed, should answer -all the requirements of the cultivator. The substitution of the -English plough for this native hùr has been several times projected by -gentlemen who were zealous in the cause of agriculture; but without -any success, or reasonable hope thereof; for when we consider the -cheapness, and the great amount of labour always available, the general -lightness of the soil, the inaptitude of the natives of India for great -or continued physical exertion, the inferiority of the cattle, all of -which are the marked characteristics of India, it would not only be -undesirable, but impossible to introduce the English plough generally -as an implement of husbandry--an implement requiring physical strength, -manual dexterity, and a superior breed of cattle for draught. Rude and -simple as the native hùr is, or as it may seem to the casual observer, -cursorily viewing the operation of ploughing, it has still many good -qualities which render it peculiarly suited to the genius of the Indian -cultivator; and it is not in any immediate endeavour to improve it -or alter it that any real benefit can be conferred on the cause of -Indian agriculture. All the efforts, therefore, that have been made in -that direction have been time and trouble expended to no purpose. It -has been said that all improvement to be real must be spontaneous, or -take rise within itself; and it would seem to be more reasonable to -improve such means and appliances as the natives use and understand, -without running counter to the ideas and shocking the prejudices which -they entertain, by endeavouring to compel their adoption of European -modes of culture, which, however well suited to the land of their -origin, have not the quality most necessary to their practicability, -that of being comprehensible to the people of India. The true end of -agriculture: - - "with artful toil - To 'meliorate and tame the stubborn soil, - To give dissimilar yet fruitful lands - The grain, or herb, or plant, that each demands," - -is best to be attained by aiding and assisting the development of those -resources of the soil which have already been made visible by the -people themselves. - -Here it is that the duty of the Government begins. The precariousness -of the land tenure is one of the greatest impediments to the outlay -of capital by the tenant in the improvement of the land; and as -there is but little prospect of the removal of this objection, the -Government should fulfil what would, were the case different, be the -obvious plans of the landholder in developing the resources of the -soil. Irrigation and manure are the two great points most deserving -of attention. On both points the resources of the country are -incalculable; the advantages evident and immediate; both require system -and an outlay of capital, which the zemindar (native landholder) is -often unable, and oftener unwilling, to adopt and incur--from want of -confidence in the administration of the law and the law itself. With -the ryot, or cultivator, the case is very different. The law, or the -administration thereof, affects him in a very slight degree compared -with the zemindar. The land tenure matters very little to him; his -rights have been secured; he profits by the outlay of capital on the -land. Risk he has none. His advantage is immediate. But he does not -possess the means of improvement in any way. He may build a well, dig -a tank, or plant a grove to the memory of a departed ancestor, and by -so doing enhance the value of the land to the zemindar; but he almost -always ruins himself by the act, leaving his debts to be paid by his -descendants, and the well, tank, or grove mortgaged to the banker -for the extra expenses incurred in its establishment! It behoves an -enlightened Government to do for the people and the country what they -are unable to do for themselves. An inquiry properly set on foot, and -undertaken by competent persons on the part of the Government, to -investigate all particulars regarding the state of agriculture, would -bring to light many facts, which, if made fitting use of, would not -only greatly redound to the honour but adduce greatly to the advantage -and profit of the State. The information thus acquired, and not founded -on the reports of native (Government) collectors, police officers, -and peaons (messengers), but ascertained by the personal inspection -of European officials, and from the opinions of the zemindars and -cultivators themselves, would enable the Government to know and devise -remedies to obviate the evils arising out of the gradual decline of -the agricultural classes in our earliest occupied territories. It -would show the Government many places where the expenditure of four -or five thousand rupees (four or five hundred pounds) in the repairs -or erection of a dam, for the obstruction of some rain-filled nullah -(a wide and deep ditch), would yield a return yearly of equal amount, -besides affording employment, and the means of livelihood to hundreds -of persons. It would show where the opening of a road, or the -building of a bridge, involving but a small expenditure, would give a -new life to a part of the country hitherto forgotten, and render the -inhabitants flourishing and happy, by throwing open to them a market -for their produce--a market at present out of their reach. It would -prove incontestably that the means of irrigation--the true water-power -of India, has been even more neglected than the water-power of that -(in comparison with the United States) sluggish colony, Canada. The -initial step once taken--the march of improvement once fairly set on -foot--private enterprise, duly encouraged, will follow in the wake of -the Government; and capital once invested, land in India will become -intrinsically valuable, and thus obtain the attention it merits. -Agricultural improvement would induce lasting and increasing prosperity -of the cultivating classes (the bulk of the population) and of the -country itself. - - * * * * * - -"What! Sham! Dinner ready?" I exclaimed, on observing the boy -approaching the tent with a tray and a table-cloth. - -"Oh, yes, sir; quite ready. And very good dinner." - -"What have you got?" - -"Stewed duck, sir--curry, sir; pancake, sir. And by the time you eat -that, one little quail ready, sir, with toast. I give dinner fit for a -governor-general, sir; and the silver shining like the moon, sir." - -(It was in this way that he ran on whilst laying the table.) - -"But why are you preparing covers for two, when I am dining alone?" - -"Yes, sir. But only poor mans has table laid for one. That place -opposite is for company sake. And suppose some gentleman come--not -likely here, but suppose? Then all is ready. No running about--no -calling out, 'Bring plate, knife and fork, and spoon, and glass,' -and all that. And if two plates laid, master, if he like--when I am -standing behind his chair keeping the flies off while he eats--may -fancy that some friend or some lady sitting opposite, and in his own -mind he may hold some guftoogoo (conversation). That's why I lay the -table for two, sir." - -I had been warned by the gentleman who permitted Sham to accompany me, -that he was such an invaluable servant, it was only politic to let -him have his own way in trifling matters; and therefore instead of -objecting to his proceeding, I applauded his foresight. - -Whilst discussing the stewed duck, which was excellent--as was indeed -every dish prepared by Sham, when he had "his own way--" and while -he was standing behind me, keeping the flies off with a chowrie (a -quantity of long horsehair fastened to a handle), I talked to him -without turning my head: - -"You say you wish to take a gun. Have you ever been out shooting?" - -"Oh, yes, sir. When my master went up from Calcutta to Mussoorie and -Simlah with the Governor-General, I went with him. And I often went -out shooting in the Dhoon, with my master, who was a great sportsman, -sir. And I was out with my master--on the same elephant--when the -Governor-General shot the tiger." - -"What! Did the Governor-General shoot a tiger?" - -"Oh, no, sir. But my master and the other gentlemens make him think he -did, sir." - -"Explain yourself." - -"Well, sir, the Governor-General said he had heard a great deal of -tiger shooting, and should like to see some for once. So my master, who -was a very funny gentleman, went to an officer in the Dhoon--another -very funny gentleman--and between them it was agreed that his lordship -should shoot one tiger. And so they sent out some native shikarees -(huntsmen), told them to wound but not kill one big tiger in the -jungle, and leave him there. And the native shikarees did shoot one -big tiger in the jungle, and they came and made a report where he was -lying. Then next morning when all the elephants and gentlemens was -ready, and the Governor-General had his gun in his hand, they all went -to the jungle; and when they got to the place and heard the tiger growl -very angrily, my master called out; 'There, my lord--there he is; -take your shot!' and my lord fired his gun, and my master cried out -very loud: 'My lord, you've hit him!' And my lord, who was very much -confused--not being a sportsman--said, 'Have I?' And all the gentlemens -cried out: 'Yes, my lord!' And then some of the gentlemens closed -round the tiger and killed him, by firing many bullets at him. And my -lord had the tiger's skin taken off, and it was sent to England to be -make a carpet for my lord's sitting-room. And for many days all the -gentlemens laughed, and asked of one another, 'Who shot the tiger?' And -the Governor-General was so happy and so proud, and wore his head as -high as a seesu-tree. But he had enough of tiger-shooting in that one -tiger; for he was not a sportsman, and did not like the jolting of the -elephant in the jungle." - -My repast ended, and the table-cloth removed, I lighted a cigar, and -took my camp-stool once more to the opening of the tent, when, to my -surprise, and somewhat to my dismay, I found myself besieged by a -host of ryots, cultivators of the soil, each bearing a present in the -shape of a basket of fruit or vegetables, or a brass dish covered with -almonds, raisins, and native sweetmeats. These poor creatures, who -doubtless fancied that I was a Sahib in authority (possibly, Sham had -told them that I was a commissioner--a very great man--on a tour of -inspection), prostrated themselves at my feet, and in the most abject -manner imaginable craved my favour and protection. I promised each and -every one of them, with much sincerity, that if ever it lay in my -power to do them a service, they might depend upon my exerting myself -to the utmost; and then I made a variety of inquiries touching their -respective ages, families, circumstances, and prospects, in order to -prove that I had already taken an interest in them. I then asked them -some questions touching the game in the locality, and was glad to hear -the report made by Sham confirmed to the letter. I was assured that -the light jungle in the rear of my tents literally swarmed with black -partridges. - -It was now nearly time to go out, and in the course of two hours I -brought down no less than seven brace, while Sham distinguished himself -by killing five birds. By the time I returned to my tent I was weary, -and retired to rest, having previously given orders that I was to be -called at two A.M., insomuch as at that hour I intended to resume the -march. It is one thing, however, to retire to rest, but it is another -thing to sleep. What with the croaking of the frogs in a neighbouring -tank, and the buzzing and biting of the musquitoes in my tent, I could -not close an eye. I lay awake the whole night, thinking--thinking of a -thousand things, but of home chiefly; and right glad was I when Sham -approached my bed, holding in one hand a cup of very hot and strong -coffee, and in the other my cigar-case, while the noise outside, -incident on the striking of the tents and the breaking up of the little -camp, was as the sweetest music to my ears. - - - - -FORWARD. - - -I was twelve days marching from Bijnore to Umballah, and, by keeping -away from the high-road, I did not see during my journey a single -European face. I moved entirely amongst the people, or rather the -peasantry, of the Upper Provinces of India--a very poor and very -ignorant peasantry, but, comparatively speaking, civil and honest. Sham -made a much greater impression upon them than I did; mounted on his -pony, and dressed in very gay attire--a purple velvet tunic, pyjamahs -of red silk trimmed with gold lace, a turban of very gorgeous aspect, -and shoes embroidered all over with silver. He had more the appearance -of a young rajah or prince than a gentleman's servant. And Sham talked -to his countrymen--if the wretched Hindoos could be so called--in a -lofty strain which vastly amused me, though I did not approve of it. I -said nothing, however. As for the camp arrangements, he had completely -taken them out of my hands, and he was so much better manager than -myself that I was well content that it should be so; all that was left -to me was to name the hour for departing from an encampment-ground, and -the next spot whereon I wished my tents pitched. - -It was past six o'clock on the morning of the 20th of April, when I -came within a few miles of Umballah. The mornings and the nights were -still cool; but, in the day the heat was beginning to be very severe. -However, after taking my coffee and making my toilet, I caused my pony -to be re-saddled, and, followed by Sham mounted on his pony, rode into -the cantonments, inquiring my way, as I went along, of the various -servants who were moving about. I eventually found myself at the door -of a bungalow, which was tenanted by a very old friend and distant -connexion of mine. He was an officer in one of her Majesty's regiments -of foot, then stationed at Umballah. - -"You will sleep here, of course, during your stay," he said; "but you -are the guest of the mess, remember. We have settled all that, and we -will go up in the buggy presently to deposit your pasteboard in the -mess reading room. I will point out to you where you will always find -your knife and fork, and I will introduce to you all the servants--the -mess-sergeant especially." - -I must now digress for a brief while, in order to give the uninitiated -reader some idea of Indian etiquette as it exists amongst Europeans, -members of society. In other countries, or at all events in England, -when a gentleman goes to take up his abode, for a long or a short -period, in a strange locality, it is usual for the residents, if they -desire to show him any civility, or make his acquaintance, to call -upon him in the first instance. In India the reverse is the case. -The stranger must make his round of calls, if he wishes to know the -residents; and, what is more, he must leave his cards on the mess, -"for the colonel and officers of her Majesty's ---- Regiment." You may -leave a card on every officer in the regiment, from the senior colonel -down to the junior ensign; and each of them may, and possibly will, -invite you to his private board; but, if you omit to leave a card on -the mess, it would be a gross breach of decorum in any member of the -mess to invite you to dine at the mess-table, because you have "not -left a card on the mess." And not only to the royal regiments does the -rule pertain, but to every regiment in India, and to every brigade of -artillery. - -Having left my cards at the mess of the regiment to which my friend -belonged, I was driven to the mess-house of the ---- Dragoons, where -another expenditure of cards was incurred; then to the mess-houses of -the two native infantry regiments, and the mess-house of the native -cavalry regiment. I was then whisked off to the house of General Sir -Doodle Dudley, G.C.B., who commanded the division. The General was very -old, close upon eighty; but he was "made up" to represent a gentleman -of about forty. His chestnut wig fitted him to perfection, and his -whiskers were dyed so adroitly, that they were an exact imitation of -their original colour. The white teeth were all false; likewise the -pink colour in the cheeks and the ivory hue of the forehead. As for the -General's dress, it fitted him like a glove, and his patent leather -boots and his gold spurs were the neatest and prettiest I had ever -seen. In early life Sir Doodle had been a rival and an acquaintance -of Beau Brummell. When a Colonel in the Peninsular war, he had been -what is called a very good regimental officer; but, from 1818 until -his appointment to India, in 1847, as a General of Division, he had -been unattached, and had never done a single day's duty. He was so -hopelessly deaf, that he never even attempted to ask what was said to -him; but a stranger, as I was, would scarcely have credited it; for the -General talked, laughed, and rattled on as though he were perfectly -unconscious of his infirmity. I ventured a casual remark touching the -late dust-storm which had swept over the district, to which the General -very vivaciously replied:-- - -"Yes, my good sir. I knew her in the zenith of her beauty and -influence, when she was a lady patroness of Almack's, and the chief -favourite of his Royal Highness the Prince Regent. Oh, yes! she is -dead, I see by the last overland paper; but I did not think she was so -old as they say she was--eighty-four. Only fancy, eighty-four!" Then -darting off at a tangent, he remarked, "I see they give it out that I -am to have the command-in-chief at Bombay. The fact is, I don't want -Bombay, and so I have told my friends at the Horse Guards at least a -dozen times. I want the governorship and the command-in-chief at the -Cape; but, if they thrust Bombay upon me, I suppose I must take it. One -can't always pick and choose, and I fancy it is only right to oblige -now and then." - -"We shall be very sorry to lose you, General," said my friend, -mechanically; "very sorry indeed." - -"So I have told his Excellency," exclaimed the General, who presumed -that my friend was now talking on an entirely different subject. "So -I have told him. But he will not listen to me. He says that if the -court-martial still adheres to its finding of murder, he will upset -the whole of the proceedings, and order the man to return to his duty; -and the court _will_ adhere to its original finding; for the court -says, and I say, that a private who deliberately loads his firelock, -and deliberately fires at and wounds a serjeant, cannot properly be -convicted of manslaughter only. Well, it cannot be helped, I suppose. -The fact is, the commander-in-chief is now too old for his work; and he -is, as he always was, very obstinate and self-willed." And the General -continued, "For the command of an army or a division in India, we -want men who are not above listening to the advice of the experienced -officers by whom they are surrounded!" - -When we were leaving the General, he mistook me for my friend and my -friend for me, and respectively addressed us accordingly (his eyesight -was very imperfect, and he was too vain to wear glasses). He thanked me -for having brought my friend to call upon him, and assured my friend -that it would afford him the greatest pleasure in the world if the -acquaintance, that day made, should ripen into friendship. - -"He is an imbecile," I remarked, when we were driving away from the -General's door. - -"Yes; and he has been for the last six or seven years," was the reply. - -"But he must be labouring under some delusion with respect to being -appointed to the command-in-chief of an Indian presidency?" - -"Nothing of the kind. He is certain of it. He will go to Bombay before -six weeks are over, you will see." - -The General _did_ go to Bombay, where he played such fantastic tricks -before high heaven, that the angels could not have "wept" for laughing -at them. Amongst other things, he insisted on the officers of the -regiments buttoning their coats and jackets up to the throat, during -the hottest time of the year. He would have nothing unmilitary, he -said, "hot climate or no hot climate." He was quite childish before he -relinquished his command, and was brought home just in time to die in -his fatherland, and at the country-seat of his aristocratic ancestors. -Although utterly unfitted, in his after life, to command troops, he was -a very polished old gentleman, externally; and, having enjoyed a very -intimate acquaintance with Blücher, and other celebrated commanders, he -could repeat many anecdotes of them worthy of remembrance. "Blücher," -he used to say, "generally turned into bed all standing, jack-boots -included; and, if his valet forgot to take off his spurs, and they -became entangled with the sheets, woe betide the valet. The torrent of -abuse that he poured forth was something terrific." I also heard the -General say that Blücher, having seen everything in London, remarked -with great earnestness, "Give me Ludgate Hill!" and on being asked to -explain why, replied, with reference to the number of jewellers' and -silversmiths' shops which in that day decorated the locality, - -"Mein Gott! what pillage!" - -After leaving the General's house, we called upon some six or eight -other magnates of Umballah for the time being; and on returning to -the mess-house at the hour of tiffin, I was rather fatigued. The -scene, however, revived me considerably. There were seated round the -large table, in the centre of the lonely room, some seventy or eighty -officers of all ranks, from the various regiments in the station. There -was to be a meeting held that day at the mess-room, to discuss some -local matter, and the majority of those present had been invited to -"tiff" previously. No one was in uniform--at least, not in military -uniform; all wore light shooting-coats and wide-awake hats, covered -with turbans. The local question, touching the best means of watering -the mall, where the residents used to take their evening ride or drive, -having been discussed, the party broke up. Some went to the different -billiard-rooms to play matches (for money, of course); others retired -to private bungalows to play cards, or read, while reclining on a couch -or a bed, or a mat upon the floor. Every one smoked and sipped some -sort of liquid. It was to a room in my friend's bungalow that eleven of -the party, inclusive of myself, repaired, to while away the time until -sundown, by playing whist. - -Never did the character of an officer's life in India strike me so -forcibly as on that afternoon. There was an air of lassitude and -satiety about every one present. The day was hot and muggy, and the -atmosphere very oppressive. It was a fatiguing bore to deal the cards, -take up the tricks, mark the game, or raise to one's lips the claret -cup which Sham had been called upon to brew. Sham was well known to -most of the officers of the regiment to which my friend belonged. He -had made their acquaintance (to use his own words) when he was on the -Governor-General's staff. - -The three men who had not cut in at whist were lounging about, -and making ineffectual attempts to keep up a conversation. The -shooting-coats and the waistcoats were now discarded, and the -suspenders, and the shoes, or boots; in short, each person only wore -strictly necessary clothing, while the native (coolie) in the verandah -was ever and anon loudly called upon to pull the punkah as strongly -as possible. That room that afternoon presented a perfect picture of -cantonment life in India during the summer season, between the hours of -two and half-past five, P.M. The body is too much exhausted to admit -of any serious mental exertion beyond that which sheer amusement can -afford; and it is by no means uncommon to find your partner or yourself -dropping off to sleep when called upon to lead a card, or follow suit. -The three men who were sitting (or lying) out, soon yielded to the -influence of the punkah, closed their eyes, and got up a snore, each -holding between his fingers the cheroot he had been smoking. - -Ah, yes! It is very bad to have to endure the frightful heat--to feel -one's blood on the broil, even under a punkah, and with doors and -windows closed, to exclude the hot air of the open day. But what must -it be for the men, the privates and their wives and children? They -have no punkahs, though it has been shown that they might have them -at a trifling cost. They have no cold water, much less iced water to -sip--though they might have it, if the authorities had the good sense -(to put humanity entirely out of the question) to be economical of -that invaluable commodity in India, British flesh and blood. They, -the men of the ranks, and their wives and children, have no spacious -apartments (with well-fitted doors and windows), to move about in, -though there is no reason why they should not have them, for the land -costs nothing, and labour and material is literally dirt-cheap in the -Upper Provinces of India. - -"But the Royal Infantry Barracks at Umballah is a fine, large -building!" it may be suggested. I reply, "Not for a regiment one -thousand strong"--a regiment mustering one thousand bayonets, to say -nothing of the numerous women, and the more numerous children. In a -cold climate, it would be ample for their accommodation; but not here, -where in a room occupied by an officer, the thermometer frequently -stands at ninety-three degrees, and sometimes at one hundred and five -degrees. In the matter of ice, the reader must be informed how it is -manufactured. During the "cold weather," (as the winter is always -called,) small earthenware vessels of shallow build, resembling saucers -in shape, are filled with water, and placed in an open field, upon a -low bed of straw. At dawn of day there is a coating of ice upon each -vessel, of about the thickness of a shilling. This is collected by -men, women, and children (natives), who receive for each morning's, -or hour's work, a sum of money, in cowries, equal to about half of -a farthing. When collected, it is carried to an ice-pit, and there -stored. The expenses are borne by a subscription, and the amount for -each ticket depends entirely on the number of subscribers. In some -large stations, an ice-ticket for the hot season costs only three -pounds. In smaller stations it will cost six pounds. The amount of ice -received by each ticket-holder is about four pounds, and is brought -away each morning at daylight, in a canvas bag, enveloped in a thick -blanket, by the ticket-holder's own servant. It is then deposited in -a basket made expressly for the purpose. In this basket is placed the -wine, beer, water, butter, and fruit. The bag of solid ice is in the -centre of all these, and imparts to each an equal coldness. These -four pounds of ice, if properly managed, and the air kept out of -the basket, will cool an inconceivable quantity of fluids, and will -last for twenty-four hours--that is to say, there will be some ice -remaining when the fresh bag is brought in. If a bewildered khansamah, -or khitmutghur, in his haste to bring a bottle, leaves the basket -uncovered, the inevitable consequence is, that the ice melts, and there -is an end of it for the day. I have scarcely known a family in which -corporal punishment was not inflicted on the servant guilty of such -a piece of neglect. But, great as was the privation, it was always -cheerfully endured by the society, when the doctors of the various -departments indented on them for their shares of ice respectively. -And this occasionally happened, when the hospitals were crowded with -cases of fever. Scores and scores of lives were often saved by the -application of ice to the head, and the administration of cold drinks. - -Ice is not manufactured below Benares. Calcutta and its immediate -neighbourhood revels in the luxury of American ice, which may be -purchased for three half-pence per seer (two pounds). The American -ships, trading to India, take it as ballast, which by the time it -arrives in the river Hooghley becomes a solid mass. - -The sun has gone down, and it is now time to bathe and dress for -our evening drive. The band is playing. We descend from the buggy, -languidly; and languidly we walk first to one carriage and then to -another, to talk with the ladies who are sitting in them. They, the -ladies, wear a very languid air, as though life, in such a climate, -were a great burden--and it is, no doubt, a great burden from the -middle of April to the first week in October. There is a languid air -even about the liveliest tunes that the band plays. Then we languidly -drive to the mess-house for dinner. The dinner is more a matter of -form than anything else. But the wines, which are well iced, are -partaken of freely enough--especially the champagne. There is, of -course, no intoxication; but as the evening advances the company -becomes more jovial, and by the time the dessert is placed on the -table, that dreadful feeling of languor has, in a great measure, taken -its departure. It is now that the evening commences, and many very -pleasant evenings have been spent in that Umballah mess-room, despite -the heat. The colonel of the regiment to which my friend belonged was -a man of very good sense; and during the hot season he sanctioned his -officers wearing, except when on parade, a white twill jacket, of a -military cut, with the regimental button; and he had not the slightest -objection to a loose necktie instead of a tightly-fitting black stock. -This matter ought to have been sanctioned by the highest military -authority, the commander-in-chief; or rather, it ought to have been -stated in a general order that such rational attire was approved of, -instead of being left to the caprice of a colonel, or brigadier, or -general of division. The regiment of royal cavalry, too, were equally -fortunate in their colonel. He was also of opinion that the comfort -of the officers under his command was worthy of some consideration, -and he could not see the necessity of requiring a gentleman to sit -down to dinner in a thick red cloth jacket (padded), and buttoned up -to the very chin. But before I left Umballah, the old General altered -this, and insisted on "this loose and unsoldierlike attire being -instantly abandoned." He had overlooked it for several months, or, at -all events, had expressed no objection; but suddenly the major-general -commanding was aroused to observe with great regret that the dress in -some regiments was fast becoming subversive, &c., &c. The reason of -the major-general's sudden acuteness of observation was this:--he was -about to give a ball at his own house, and for some inexplicable cause -had not invited any of the officers of her Majesty's ---- Regiment of -Foot. But on the morning of the night on which the ball was to take -place, he requested his aide-de-camp to write the following note:-- - - "The Major-General commanding the Division desires that - the band of H.M.'s ---- Foot may be in attendance at the - Major-General's house at half-past nine precisely." - -And the band went at half-past nine, for the General had a perfect -right to order the men to attend at his house whenever he pleased; but -the band went without their musical instruments, for they (as I believe -is the case in all regiments) were the private property of the officers -for the time being, and, like the regimental plate, the loan thereof -for any particular occasion must be regarded as a matter of favour, and -not as a matter of right. So the General had no music out of the band: -and the officers in the station had no comfort in their dress, until -the General left the station for his command at Bombay. - -It may possibly be imagined that the General had, in his earlier days, -done the State great service as a military commander, and for that his -appointment was the reward. Nothing of the kind. When he left the army, -and became unattached, he was only a regimental colonel, and had only -been once mentioned by the Duke of Wellington in his despatches, as -having gallantly led his regiment into action; for this single mention -he was made a brevet major-general and a C.B., while other colonels -who had performed precisely the same service, remained unpromoted -and undecorated. Sometimes, during his Indian career--not that he -was intoxicated by wine, for the General in his dotage was rather -abstemious--he would be utterly oblivious to the fact that he _was_ in -India, and would hold a conversation with some young ensign, (who had -been one of his dinner party, and who, in haste to get away early to -billiards, came up to say good night) after the following fashion:-- - -"Look here, my pretty boy, as you will be passing Fribourg and -Pontet's, just look in and tell them--O, how like you are to your dear -mother! I can remember her when she was thought, and truly, to be one -of the prettiest women in all Europe! Charming eyes--lovely complexion! -Well, look in at Fribourg and Pontet's." - -"Yes, General." - -"And tell them to send me a canister of the Duke of Kent's mixture. O! -how very like you are to your dear mother, my pretty boy! The last they -sent me had scent in it. Tell them I hate scent in snuff." - -"Yes, General." - -"O! how VERY like you are to your dear mother!" - -(The General had never seen the boy's mother in the course of his long -and useless life.) - -"Yes, General." - -"Well, do not forget the snuff." - -"O, no, General! Good night." - -"God bless thee, my pretty boy! O! how like you are to your dear -mother!" - -I do not mean to say that General Sir Doodle Dudley was an average -specimen of the General officers sent out by the Horse Guards to -command divisions in India. That would be untrue: for some, though -very old and inefficient, could see, hear, and understand. But within -the past ten years, some others that I know of have been sent out, to -Bengal alone, who were not one whit more efficient than General Sir -Doodle Dudley. - -The nights being more enjoyable, comparatively, than the days, no -wonder that they are rarely given up for sleep by the majority of -military men or younger civilians in India. Of course, married men -with families must, and do, for the most part, lead regular lives, or, -at all events, conform to some fixed domestic rules. But it is not -so with the unmarried, who take their rest (sleep) much in the same -way that inveterate drunkards take their drink--"little and often." -You will see a young officer playing at billiards at half-past two or -three in the morning, and at five you will see him on the parade-ground -with his company. He has had his sleep and his bath, and, to use his -own words, he "feels as fresh as a three-year-old." Between seven and -twelve he will also have an hour or so of "the balmy," and then, after -tiffin, he will perhaps get a few winks while reading the newspaper or -a book, or while sitting on the bench in the billiard-room, "watching -the game." Have these young men, it may be asked, nothing to do? Have -they no occupation? Yes. They have to keep themselves alive and in -good spirits, and that is no easy task either, in the hot weather of -the Upper Provinces. Some of them (a few) in the East India Company's -Service will take to studying the languages, in the hope that -proficiency therein will lead to staff employ. Those, however, who do -not happen to have good interest to back their claims soon find out -that the order of the Governor-General in Council touching a knowledge -of the Native languages is a mere sham; and that ignorance clothed with -interest is--so far as advancement in life is concerned--far preferable -to a well-stored head and a steady character. - - - - -MILITARY MATTERS. - - -"A court martial! Is it possible?" exclaimed my friend, on looking -into the general order book, which was put before him on the -breakfast-table. "Well, I did not think it would come to that." - -"I did," said the Major of the regiment, who was sitting opposite to -him. "For it strikes me that the chief is never so happy as when he is -squabbling with the members of the courts, and publicly reprimanding -them for their inconsistency, or whatever else may occur to him. This -is the seventh court martial held in this station within the past two -months, and with the exception of one case, the whole of them were -unnecessary." - -I was tempted to ask who was to be tried. - -"Two boys," replied the Major, "who thought proper to quarrel at the -mess-table, and to make use of a certain little word, not altogether -becoming gentlemen, if applied to one another. The Senior Captain, who -was the senior officer present, very properly put them under arrest, -and sent them to their quarters. Our Colonel, who is, I am very happy -to say, extremely particular on this as well as on every other point -that tends to preserve the tone and character of the regiment, wished -these lads to receive from a higher authority than himself a severe -reprimand. That authority was the General of the Division; and if the -General of the Division had been Sir Joseph Thackwell, an officer of -sound judgment, or any commander of Sir Joseph's stamp, all would -have been well. But the Colonel, who has since found out the mistake -that he made in not weighing the individual character of Sir Doodle, -forwarded the case on to him through the Brigadier in the regular way, -the young gentlemen meanwhile remaining under arrest. The Colonel also -saw Sir Doodle privately, and pointed out to him, so far as he could -make himself understood, that a severe reprimand was all that was -required. Sir Doodle, however, did not view the matter in this light, -and forwarded the proceedings to the Commander-in-Chief, at Simlah. -After a fortnight's delay, during which time those two boys have been -confined to their respective bungalows, the order has come down for a -general court martial, to assemble and try them. This will involve a -further imprisonment of some three or four weeks; for the chief is sure -to find fault with the court's finding, and send back the proceedings -for revision and reconsideration previous to confirming and approving -of them." - -"And what do you suppose will be the upshot?" I asked. - -"That the lads will be released, or ordered to return to their duty," -said the Major. "Have you ever witnessed a military court martial?" - -"No." - -"Then I would advise you to witness this." - -On the following day, a frightfully hot day, the thermometer being at -ninety-two, I accompanied my friend in his buggy to the mess-room of -the regiment, where I beheld some five-and-twenty officers in full -dress. All these officers were in some way or other connected with -the trial; besides these there were present some five-and-thirty -officers in red or blue jackets, but without their swords; these -were spectators. It was altogether a very imposing scene; especially -when the thirteen members took their seats around the table, the -President in the centre, and the Deputy-Judge-Advocate of the Division -opposite to him; the prisoners standing behind the chair of the -Deputy-Judge-Advocate-General. The lads were now perfectly reconciled -to each other, and as good friends as ever. Indeed, on the morning that -followed their use of the one very objectionable little word, mutual -apologies and expressions of regret passed between them; and, in so far -as the settling of the quarrel between themselves was concerned, it -was most judiciously and satisfactorily arranged by their respective -friends. - -The court having been duly sworn, and the charges read aloud by the -Deputy-Judge-Advocate-General, the prisoners were called upon to plead. -Both of them wished to plead guilty, and said so in a low tone to the -Deputy-Judge-Advocate-General, who in an equally low tone of voice, -said-- - -"No, don't do that; say 'Not guilty.'" - -"But look here, my dear fellow," said one of the prisoners to that -functionary, who was the prosecutor on the occasion; "what's the use of -denying it? We did make two fools of ourselves." - -"Yes; what's the use of wasting time?" said the other prisoner. - -"If we plead guilty, there's an end of it, and the court can sentence -us at once, and send the papers up to Simlah by to-night's post. I am -sick of that cursed bungalow of mine, and want to have a change of air." - -"Well, do as you like," said the Deputy-Judge-Advocate. "But my advice -is that you plead _Not_ guilty, and then in your defence you can -put forth whatever you please in extenuation, and mitigation of the -punishment." - -"But here we are brought up for calling each other liars in a moment -of passion, and if we say we did not call each other liars, we _are_ -liars." - -"And what is more, we are liars in cold blood," urged one of the -prisoners. - -"Will you admit that you were drunk?" said the -Deputy-Judge-Advocate-General. - -"No," they both called out. "We were not strictly sober, perhaps. But -where is it about being drunk? We didn't see that in the charge." - -"Yes, here it is, in the second instance of the second charge, -'having while in a state of intoxication at the mess-table of her -Majesty's ---- Regiment of Foot, on the night,'" &c., &c. - -"Oh! that's an infamous falsehood, you know. Who said that? Not Captain -Stansfield, who put us under arrest? If he swears that he shall answer -for it. Intoxicated! not a bit of it! Screwed, nothing more!" cried the -young officer in a sort of stage whisper. "On my honour, as an officer -and a gentleman, nothing more." - -"These charges have come down from head-quarters, having been prepared -in the office of the Judge-Advocate-General." - -"Who is he? What's his name?" asked the prisoners. - -"Colonel Birch," was the reply. - -"Then he shall give up his authority." - -"Well, plead Not guilty, and you will have it." - -"Very well, then, off she goes: 'Not guilty!' Fifty not guilties, if -you like, on that point." - -While this little, but interesting, debate was pending between the -prosecutor and the prisoners, the various members of the court were -holding with each other a miscellaneous conversation, or otherwise -amusing themselves. - -Colonel Jackstone, of the Native Infantry (who was the president of -the court martial, in virtue of the seniority of his rank), was talking -to Colonel Colverly of the Dragoons, about some extraordinary ailment -of his wife which required the constant administration of brandy and -soda-water, in order to keep her alive. It was a low sinking fever, -he said, from which she had suffered for the last six or seven years -at intervals of three months; and it was always worse in the hot -weather than at any other season of the year. Captain Bulstrade, of -the Artillery, was talking to Major Wallchaffe, of the Light (Bengal) -Cavalry, concerning a fly-trap which he had that morning invented; a -ginger-beer or soda-water bottle half filled with soapsuds and the -opening besmeared with honey or moistened sugar. Captain Dundriffe was -recommending Captain Nolens to buy some beer which a native merchant -had recently imported into the station. Lieutenant Blade, of the -Dragoons, was playing at odd and even with his fingers, on honour, -with Lieutenant Theston, of the same regiment; and, with a pretence -of being ready to take notes of the proceedings of the court martial, -each, pen in right hand, was keeping an account of the score. Blade -used to boast of being the inventor of this simple game, but there were -officers in India who declared that it owed its existence to a late -Commander-in-Chief of the Forces, and who invented it at school when he -had been shut up in a dark room (with another boy as fond of gambling -as himself), as a punishment for card playing and other games of -chance requiring light to see what was going on. Nothing could possibly -be simpler than the game, and played as it was, on honour, nothing -could be fairer. Blade lost thirty pounds on the first day of the court -martial, but won the greater part of it back on the day following. -Of course it would not do to play at this game with strangers or -promiscuous acquaintances. Lieutenant Belterton of the regiment was -making use of the pens, ink, and paper, by sketching the President and -several others who had somewhat prominent noses; and young Lofter was -trying to rival him in this amusement. My own friend was very busy -writing; and, from the serious expression on his countenance, you might -have fancied he was composing a sermon, or writing a letter of advice -to a refractory son; he folded up the paper, and passed it round till -at last it reached me. I opened it, and read as follows:--"We shall be -here till four. Take the buggy and drive up to the bungalow, and tell -the khitmutghur to bring down the ice-basket, also Mr. Belterton's -ice-basket, with a plentiful supply of soda-water from our mess; for -they are rather short here, and can't stand a heavy run upon them. -Tell him also to bring several bottles of our Madeira, for theirs I -do not like, and won't drink. It has not age, and has not travelled -sufficiently. Cigars also. I am literally bathed in perspiration, and -so I fancy are most of us at this end of the table, for the punkah is -too far distant to admit of our receiving any benefit therefrom. This -is an awful business." - -In compliance with the request contained in the above note, I left the -Court, drove off as rapidly as possible, and communicated my friend's -wishes to his servant, who immediately hastened to fulfil them. By the -time I returned to the Court the first witness was under examination. -Such a waste of time! Such a trial to the temper of all present! -Instead of allowing the Senior Captain to state the facts--and he would -have done so in less than three minutes--and then take them down on -paper, each question was written on a slip of paper, and submitted -to the President, by the Deputy-Judge-Advocate, who showed it to the -officers sitting on either side of him, who nodded assent. The question -was then read aloud to the witness:-- - -"Were you present on the night of the 10th of April, at the mess-table -of her Majesty's ---- Regiment of Foot?" - -The Captain replied, "I was." - -The question and answer were then copied into "the book," and the slip -of paper on which the question was originally written was torn up. -This occupied (for the Deputy-Judge-Advocate was not a rapid writer, -and was apparently in no particular hurry, being a man of very equable -temperament) eight minutes. The second question was put in precisely -the same way, the same ceremonies having been gone through. The second -question was:-- - -"Were the prisoners present on that occasion?" - -"They were," replied the Captain. - -Again the copying process went on, slowly and methodically, and Blade, -who was still playing odd and even, called out in a loud voice, -to make it appear that he was giving up his mind entirely to the -investigation:-- - -"What was the answer? I did not hear it distinctly; be so good as to -request the witness to speak up." - -"He said, 'They were,'" returned the Deputy-Judge-Advocate-General. - -"Oh! 'They were,'" repeated Blade; writing down a mark, signifying that -he had just lost four rupees. - -Twenty minutes had now elapsed, and the above was all that had been -elicited from the first witness, who was seemingly as impatient as -most of the members of the Court. The Deputy-Judge-Advocate-General, -however, had patience enough for all present, and so had Blade, and -his adversary at odd and even. My friend having scowled at Blade for -putting his question, and thus prolonging the inquiry, that aggravating -officer now periodically spoke to the Deputy-Judge-Advocate-General, -who invariably put down his pen to answer him; just as if he could not -possibly speak with that instrument in his hand. It was a quarter-past -two when the examination in chief was concluded. It began at twelve -precisely; so that two hours and fifteen minutes had been consumed in -taking down the following, and no more:-- - -"I was present on the night in question, and placed the prisoners -under an arrest, for giving each other the lie in an offensive and -ungentlemanlike manner. They were excited seemingly by the wine they -had taken; but I cannot say that they were drunk." - -The Court then adjourned for half-an-hour to the mess-room, to take -some refreshment--every one dripping, drenched. Then came the opening -the fronts of the thick red cloth coats, and the imbibing of brandy -and soda-water, iced beer, and other fluids, and sundry violent -exclamations, that it was worse than the battle of Sobraon--more trying -to the constitution. Every one then sat down to tiffin; and, having -hastily devoured a few morsels, smoked cheroots. - -"I say, Blade," said the Senior Captain, "what did you mean by wishing -me to speak up? Surely you heard my answer?" - -"Mean, my dear fellow? I meant nothing--or if I did, it was only to -take a mild rise out of you. However, don't interrupt me just now, for -I am thinking over a lot of questions I intend to put to you, when we -get back into Court." - -"Questions? About what?" - -"About drink! That's all I will tell you now. You don't suppose that I -was born the son of a judge of the Queen's Bench for nothing, do you? -If so, you are vastly mistaken. Is that your Madeira, or ours?" - -"Ours." - -"Then just spill some into this glass. Ours is not good, certainly, -but it would not do to say so before the Colonel. Ah!" sighed the -lieutenant, after taking a draught: "that is excellent! Yes. Drink -is the topic on which I intend to walk into you, practically. And be -very careful how you answer, or you will have the Commander-in-Chief -down upon you with five-and-twenty notes of admiration at the -end of every sentence of his general order; thirty-five notes of -interrogation in the same; and every other word in italics, or -capitals, in order to impress the matter of his decision firmly on our -minds. 'Was the Court raving mad? Witness ought to be tried!!! folly! -imbecility! childishness! The veriest schoolboy ought to know better! -Deputy-Judge-Advocate ignorant of his duty!!! The President insane!!!! -Confirmed, but not approved!!!" - -"What are you making such a noise about, Blade?" inquired the Colonel -of his regiment, good-naturedly. - -"Nothing, Colonel," said Blade. "No noise. But here is a man who has -the audacity, in our own mess-house, to asperse the character of our -Madeira." And, taking up the Senior Captain's own bottle, and holding -it before the Senior Captain's face, he exclaimed,--looking at the -Colonel, "He positively refuses to taste it, even." - -"Nonsense," said the cavalry Colonel, approaching them with a serious -air, and with an empty glass in his hand. "Nonsense! Do you really mean -to say that our Madeira is not good--excellent?" - -"No, Colonel," said the Senior Captain of the Royal Infantry regiment. - -"Taste it, and say what you think of it, Colonel," said Blade, filling -the Colonel's glass, which was held up to receive the liquid, with a -willingness which imparted some mirth to the beholders. "Taste it. -There." - -"I have tasted it," said the Colonel, "and pronounce it to be the best -I ever drank in my life, and, in my judgment, infinitely superior to -that of any other mess." - -"So I say," said Blade, filling his glass; "but the misfortune is, he -won't believe me." - -"Order a fresh bottle of our wine for him, Blade," said the Colonel, -"and let him taste the top of it." - -"No, thank you, Colonel," said the Senior Captain; "I would rather not. -Remember, I have to conclude my examination." - -"Ah, so you have," said the Colonel, moving away. "But take my word for -it, that better Madeira than ours was never grown or bottled." - -When the Court resumed its sitting, I observed that some of the members -of the Court became drowsy, and dropped off to sleep, opening one eye -occasionally, for a second or two; others became fidgety, impetuous, -and argumentative. The President inquired if the members of the Court -would like to ask the witness any questions. Several responded in the -affirmative, and began to write their questions on slips of paper. -Blade, however, was the first to throw his slip across the table to -the Deputy-Judge-Advocate-General, who, having read it, handed it -across to the President, who showed it to the officers on either side -of him, who nodded assent. The question was then handed back to the -Deputy-Judge-Advocate-General, who proceeded to read it aloud. - -"You have stated that the prisoners were under the influence of wine, -but that they were not drunk. What do you mean?" - -"I mean," said the Senior Captain, "that they--" - -"Not so quick, please," said the Deputy-Judge-Advocate-General. "You -mean that?--Yes--I am quite ready." - -"I mean," said the witness, "that though they had both been partaking -freely of wine, they were not--" - -"Freely of wine--don't be in a hurry," said the -Deputy-Judge-Advocate-General, repeating each word that he took down. - -"Mind, he says 'Freely,'" said Blade. "'Freely of wine.' The word -'freely' is important--very important. Have you got down the word -freely?" - -"Yes," said the Deputy-Judge-Advocate-General, having put down his pen -to ascertain the fact, and make it known to his interrogator. - -"Very well," said Blade. "Then put the rest of the answer down, at your -earliest convenience. I am in no particular hurry." - -"Well?" said the Deputy-Judge-Advocate-General to the witness--"they -were not--not what?" - -"Not drunk," said the witness. - -"There is nothing about drunkenness in the charges," said the -President; "where are the charges?" - -"Here, sir," said the Deputy-Judge-Advocate-General. "But, please let -me write down your remark before we go any further." - -"What remark?" inquired the President. - -"That there is nothing about drunkenness in the charges. According -to the last general order by his Excellency the Commander-in-Chief, -on the last court martial held in this station, everything that -transpires should be recorded." And the Deputy-Judge-Advocate-General -then resumed his writing in the slowest and most provoking manner -imaginable. Several of the audience walked out of the Court, and -went into the room where the refreshments were. I followed them. We -remained absent for more than ten minutes; but, when we came back, the -Deputy-Judge-Advocate-General had not yet written up to the desired -point, previous to going on with Blade's question. This at length -accomplished, he looked at the President and said, "Yes, sir?" - -"There is nothing about drunkenness, and the prisoners are not charged -with it," said the President. "The words, 'while in a state of -intoxication,' are to all intents and purposes surplusage." - -"There I differ with you, sir," said the Deputy-Judge-Advocate-General. - -"So do I," said Blade. - -"Clear the Court!" cried the President; whereupon the audience, the -prisoners, the witnesses--in fact, all save the members of the Court -and the Deputy-Judge-Advocate-General, withdrew, whilst a discussion, -which lasted for three-quarters of an hour was carried on, every member -giving his opinion, and most of them speaking at the same time. - -When we returned to the Court, after three-quarters of an -hour's absence, the Senior Captain resumed his seat near the -Deputy-Judge-Advocate-General. We were not informed of what had taken -place. A pause of several minutes ensued, when Blade threw across -the table another little slip on which was written a long sentence. -The Deputy-Judge-Advocate-General handed it to the President, who, -on reading it, looked a good deal astonished, and shook his head, -whereupon Blade, who was evidently bent on mischief, called out, "We -are all of that opinion at this end of the table." - -The President then handed Blade's written question to the officer who -sat next to him on his right, and that officer passed it on to the -next, the next to the next, and so on till it had been seen by every -member of the Court. Some signified by a nod, some by a shake of the -head, others by a shrug of the shoulders, what they thought about it; -and as there seemed to be a difference of opinion, the Court was again -cleared in order that the vote for or against might be taken. So once -more we were driven into the mess-room to refresh ourselves and laugh -over the absurdity of the whole proceeding. After waiting there for -about five-and-thirty minutes, the Adjutant announced, in a loud voice, -"The Court is open!" and we returned to hear the President say that, as -it was now nearly four o'clock, the Court must be adjourned--another -absurdity in connexion with courts martial. After four o'clock, the -Court must not sit, even if twenty minutes in excess of that hour would -end the proceedings, and render another meeting unnecessary. - -The Deputy-Judge-Advocate-General then locked up his papers in a box, -placed it under his arm, bowed to the Court, walked off, called for his -buggy, and drove home. The members of the Court, the prisoners, and the -audience then dispersed, and retired to their respective bungalows; all -very tired, and very glad of some repose. My friend, on taking off his -coat, asked me to feel the weight of it, out of curiosity. Saturated -as it was, it must, including the epaulettes, have weighed some -five-and-twenty pounds. - -The next day at eleven the Court again met. The first thing that was -done was to read the proceedings of the previous day. This duty was -performed by the Deputy-Judge-Advocate-General, and, slowly as he read, -it was over in twelve minutes, for I timed him. That is to say, it had -taken four hours and a half to get through the real business of twelve -minutes, or, giving a very liberal margin, the business of half-an-hour. - -And now another very curious feature of an Indian court martial -presented itself. The President asked the Deputy-Judge-Advocate-General -if he had furnished the prisoners with a copy of the past day's -proceedings. The Deputy-Judge-Advocate-General said:-- - -"No; the prisoners had not asked for a copy." - -The President said:-- - -"That does not signify. Did you tender them a copy?" - -"No, sir." - -"Then you ought to have done so." - -The prisoners here said that they did not want a copy. - -The President's answer to this innocent remark was, that whatever they -had to say they must reserve till they were called upon for their -defence. - -Desirous of not provoking the animosity of the President, they bowed, -and very respectfully thanked him for the suggestion. Whereupon -the President, who was a terrible talker, and passionately fond of -allusions to his own career in the army, mentioned a case within his -own personal knowledge. It was a case that happened in Canada, and he -had reason, he said, to remember it, because he was at the time on -the staff of that distinguished officer, Sir James Kemp, and heard -Sir James remark upon it. The Honourable Ernest Augustus Fitzblossom, -a younger son of the Earl of Millflower, was tried for cheating at -cards, was found guilty, and sentenced to be cashiered. This sentence -was confirmed and approved by the General Commanding-in-Chief, and -the Honourable Lieutenant went home. An appeal was made to the Horse -Guards, and it came out that no copy of each day's proceedings had -been tendered to the prisoner, and upon that ground the whole of the -proceedings were declared by his Royal Highness the Duke of York to be -null and void. He (the President) did not mean to offer any opinion on -that case, but he merely quoted it, and being on Sir James's staff at -the time, he had reason to remember, in order to show that such was the -rule. - -A Captain in the Bengal Cavalry said he knew of a case which occurred -in this country (India) where the very reverse was held. The -prisoner--a Lieutenant Burkett, of the Bengal Native Infantry--was -tried for being drunk whilst on outpost duty. The trial lasted for -seventeen days, for no less than thirty-eight witnesses--principally -natives--were examined. The Lieutenant, at the close of the case for -the prosecution, demanded a copy of the proceedings, in order to -assist him in drawing up his defence. His demand was not complied -with. He was convicted and dismissed the service. He appealed to the -Commander-in-Chief, who ruled that a prisoner had no right whatever to -a copy of the proceedings until after his conviction, and therefore he -confirmed and approved the sentence, or rather, as he had done that -already, he rejected the appeal. - -"Did he appeal to the Horse Guards?" asked the President. - -"No; he belonged to the Company's service." - -"Well, did he appeal to the Directors? They might have restored him. -They have just restored a man, Bagin, who was cashiered two years ago -for gross fraud and falsehood in several instances." - -"Yes, I know. Bagin was in my regiment. But Bagin has an uncle in the -direction, besides a stepfather who would have had to support him and -his family if his commission had not been restored to him. Burkett had -no friends, and very lucky for him." - -"How do you mean?" - -"He entered the service of a native prince, and, being a steady fellow -and a clever fellow, he made a fortune in the course of nine years, and -is now living at home on his fifteen hundred a year." - -"I know of another case," said another member of the court, and he -proceeded to detail the particulars. When he had finished, another -member told of another case; and so this desultory narration -of individual experiences went on for one hour and a half--the -Deputy-Judge-Advocate, with his tongue protruding, writing away as -methodically as possible. What he was writing I do not know; but I -fancy he was taking down the "heads" of the various cases that were -quoted, in order that his Excellency the Commander-in-Chief might have -the satisfaction of examining them. I was told afterwards that we, the -audience, and the prisoners, ought not to have been allowed to remain -in court during this narration of cases, and the anecdotes which the -narrators wove into them; but I need scarcely say I was very glad that -our presence had been overlooked; for if I had not seen and heard what -took place, I should not certainly have believed, and therefore should -not have dreamt of describing, it. It was during this conversation -that Blade won back from his adversary, at odd and even, the greater -portion of the money he had lost on the previous day; nor that either -Blade or his adversary failed to take a part in the conversation, -for both of them would now and then ejaculate "What an extraordinary -case!" "Did you ever!" "No, never!" "It seems impossible!" "Cashiered -him?" "Shameful!" "Who could have been the chairman of the Court of -Directors?" "A Dissenter, I'll be bound!" - -"Well, sir," said the Deputy-Judge-Advocate-General to the President, -when he had finished his writing, "what shall we do? Shall we adjourn -the Court until a copy of yesterday's proceedings is made, and given -to the prisoners?" - -"No doubt," said the President; "that is the only way in which the -error can be repaired. But a copy must be delivered to each of them." - -"But had we better not take the opinion of the Court on the subject?" -suggested the Deputy-Judge-Advocate-General. - -"By all means," conceded the President; "but in that case, the Court -must be cleared, while the votes are taken." - -"Clear the Court!" cried the Adjutant; and out we all marched again, -into the mess-room, where more cheroots were smoked, and more weak -brandy-and-water imbibed. - -The third day came, and the Court re-assembled. The -Deputy-Judge-Advocate-General read over the entire proceedings, -beginning from the very beginning, the swearing of the members, up to -the adjournment of the Court, and the reasons for such adjournment. -Here another discussion or conversation ensued, as to whether it -was necessary to read more than the last day's proceedings. The -Deputy-Judge-Advocate-General said he was quite right. The President -thought otherwise. All the other members of the Court spoke on the -subject, many of them at the same time. Blade and his adversary also -gave their opinions, the former for, and the latter opposed to the -view taken by the President. As this was a point that must be cleared -up, insomuch as the decision that might be come to would regulate the -future proceedings in this respect, the Court was again "cleared," and -we again marched into the room where the refreshments were to be had. -In half-an-hour's time we were re-admitted. But it was not until the -following day (for members are not allowed, in short, they are bound -by oath not to divulge what may be decided when the doors are closed), -that we learnt the Deputy-Judge-Advocate-General had carried his point, -and that a sort of parody of that old nursery story, about "the fire -began to burn the stick, the stick began to beat the dog, the dog began -to bite the pig," was the proper way to open the proceedings of each -day during a protracted trial by general court-martial! - -So curiously is human nature constituted, that I, in common with the -rest of the audience, began, after the fifth day, to like the business, -and to watch its various twistings and turnings with great interest. -The mess-house, at which the Court was held, became a favourite lounge -for almost everybody in the station; and it was curious to hear the -bets that were made with reference to the probable "finding," and the -sentence. The trial lasted over thirteen days, inclusive of two Sundays -which intervened; and the proceedings were then forwarded to Simlah, -where they remained for a fortnight awaiting the decision of the -Commander-in-Chief, who, in fulfilment of Blade's prophecy, certainly -did put forth "a snorter of a General Order," and as full as it could -be of italics, capitals, and notes of exclamation and interrogation. -His Excellency "walked into" the President, and recommended him to -study some catechism of the Law of Courts Martial, such a book as -children might understand. His Excellency further remarked that the -Senior Captain (the principal witness), or any man wearing a sword, -ought to be ashamed of admitting that he was unable to define the -various stages of intoxication; and that he was astounded to find -that the Court in general should have paid so little attention to -the admirable reasoning, on this point, of a junior member whose -intelligence appeared to have enlisted no sympathy. (This had reference -to Blade.) His Excellency went on to say, that he had never himself -been drunk in the whole course of his long life, and to that fact he -attributed his position; that if the Court had done its duty it would -have cashiered the prisoners; that a "severe reprimand which the Court -awarded was a mockery which stunk in the nostrils," and that the -prisoners were to be released from arrest and return to their duty -without receiving it. But the Chief did not end here. He went on to -say, that he would maintain the discipline of the British army in the -East, in all ranks, or else he would know the reason why. And being, I -fancy, in some difficulty as to what to use, in the case (whether marks -of admiration or interrogation), he emphasized the last word of this -culminating and very relevant sentence thus:-- - -"WHY?!!!" - -It was a matter of grave doubt whether the determination, thus -expressed, to uphold discipline in the army, was in any way assisted -by such general orders as those fired off from the pen of the ardent -Commander-in-Chief; the more especially as such general orders were -copied into the newspapers, and were read by (or listened to while -others were reading aloud,) every non-commissioned officer and private -in Upper India, Native and European. Three weeks after the promulgation -of the general order just alluded to, a trooper in the dragoons -having been talked to seriously by the captain of the troop, for some -irregular conduct, thus unburthened himself:-- - -"You! What do I care for what YOU say? You are one of those infernal -fools whom the Commander-in-Chief pitched into the other day for BEING -a fool." And as the peroration of this speech consisted of the dashing -off of the speaker's cap, and hurling it into the captain's face, the -man was tried, convicted, and sentenced to be transported for life. - -If it be inquired by the reader whether the above description of a -Court Martial in India is a fair specimen of what usually transpires at -these tribunals, I reply, emphatically, "Yes;" and I make the assertion -after having watched the proceedings of no fewer than eighteen Courts -Martial during my sojourn in the East Indies. - - * * * * * - -Four officers who had obtained six months' leave of absence, and -who had rented between them a furnished house at Simlah, were about -to proceed there. I was tempted to accompany them. We left Umballah -at sunset in palkees, and at seven o'clock on the following morning -arrived at the foot of the hills, at a place called Kalka, where there -is an hotel. Having breakfasted, we commenced the ascent on ponyback, -and in the course of an hour and a half arrived at Kussowlie, where -a regiment of her Majesty's Foot was quartered. Here we rested for a -brief while, and then pursued our journey. Strange to say, although the -climate is superb, and the scenery grand beyond description, the men -(so I was told) preferred the plains, regarding them--to use their own -words--"less like a prison than the hills." From Kussowlie we pushed on -to Sirée, which is about half way between Simlah and Kalka. Here there -is a bungalow, at which we dined on the everlasting "grilled fowl," -hard-boiled eggs, and unleavened bread. Some friends at Simlah, who had -been written to previously, had sent five horses to meet us; so that, -when we resumed our journey, we were mounted on fresh cattle. All along -the road the scenery is extremely picturesque and beautiful; but, in -point of grandeur, it does not, in my opinion, equal that of the Alps. - -It was nearly dark when we arrived at our destination and entered the -house, where we found everything ready for our reception; the servants -had been sent on a day or two in advance of us. - -It is a long and fatiguing ride, forty miles in the sun, albeit there -is generally a light breeze to modify the heat; and we were all -disposed to retire to rest. But we were unable to do so. The gentlemen -who had sent the horses to meet us, as soon as they were informed -of our arrival, came to see us, and, what was more, to take us to a -subscription ball, which was to take place that night at the Assembly -Rooms. It was useless to plead weariness. We were compelled to go. - -The society of Simlah, though composed of the same elements, -differs very much from the society of Mussoorie. The presence of -the Commander-in-Chief, or the Governor-General, and sometimes both -(as was the case when I was at Simlah), imposes a restraint on the -visitors to this sanitarium. The younger men are less disposed to -run riot, and incur the risk of having their leave cancelled, and -themselves sent down to the plains. A ball, therefore, at Simlah -differs from a ball at Mussoorie. It is so much more sedate. More than -one half of those who prefer Simlah to Mussoorie, do so in the hope of -prepossessing one or other of the Great Authorities, by being brought -into contact with them, and thus obtain staff employ or promotion; -and very amusing is it to look on at a public entertainment and -witness the feelings of jealousy and of envy that swell the breasts -of the various candidates for notice and favour. Nor are the little -artifices that are resorted to unworthy of observation and a smile. -At this ball there was a lady, the wife of a civilian (a sad fool), -who had a great facility in taking likenesses, and she had drawn the -Governor-General in every possible attitude, both on foot and on -horseback. These clever and admirably-executed sketches were laid -upon a table in the ball-room, and excited very general admiration; -and it was very soon "buzzed about" who was the artist. The wife of -another civilian, however, maliciously neutralized the effect these -sketches would probably have had, by falsely saying, loud enough for -his Lordship to hear, "Ah! she said she would do the trick with her -pencil!" The consequence was, that when the lady's husband begged his -Lordship would accept this collection of portraits, as well as a few -sketches of the house inhabited by the Great Man, his Lordship,--as -delicately and as gracefully as the circumstances would admit -of,--"declined them with many thanks;" just as though they had been -so many unsuitable contributions to some popular periodical. The wife -of a military officer, however, was rather more fortunate. She, too, -had a great talent for drawing, and had taken an excellent likeness -in water colours of the Commander-in-Chief's favourite charger--the -charger that had carried the old Chief through his battles; and as the -lady begged that the Chief would accept the picture, he did so, and -the next _Gazette_ made known that Captain Cloughcough was a Major -of Brigade. By the way, this was an excellent appointment, for the -office required no sort of ability, and Cloughcough had none; he was, -moreover, a most disagreeable person in his regiment, and constantly -quarrelling with his brother officers, who were delighted to get -rid of him. To chronicle _all_ the seductive little arts which were -resorted to on that night, to effect a desired end, would half fill a -volume. But I cannot omit the following: it struck me as so _extremely_ -ingenious. There was a lady, the wife of a young civilian, who had two -very pretty little children--a boy and a girl. Of these children, the -Governor-General took great notice, and, whenever he saw their mother, -made inquiries touching "the little pets," as he was won't to speak of -them. On the night of that ball, his Lordship did so. The lady replied -that they were quite well; but that the doctor had said their return -to the plains would be fatal to them, and that they must be sent to -England. - -"Then you had better take the doctor's advice," said the -Governor-General. - -"But, alas! my Lord," said the lady, "we have not the means. My -husband's pay is only 700 rupees a month, and we are, unfortunately, -very much in debt." - -"That's a bad job," said my Lord. - -"Yes," sighed the lady; "it is a very painful reflection--the idea of -losing one's little dears. But what is to be done? I dread the coming -of the 15th of October, when my husband's leave will expire, more than -I dread my own death." - -"Could you not remain up here with them through the winter?" - -"And be absent from my husband, my Lord? Besides, two establishments on -700 rupees a month!" - -"That is true." - -"If we could _send_ them to England under the care of some friend, -we would do so, before the hot weather sets in. But we cannot afford -it. Or if my husband had an appointment in some healthy station, out -of the plains, then they might be spared to us. The thought of the -beautiful roses on their cheeks just now leaving them, and their dear -little faces becoming pale and sallow, and their little limbs shrinking -till they are almost skeletons--it makes my very heart bleed!" (And -the pretty and ingenious little lady took her kerchief, raised it to -her eyes, and suppressed something like one of Mrs. Alfred Mellon's -stage sobs, which went, straight as an arrow, to the Governor-General's -sensitive heart.) "If," she continued, "my husband were a favourite -with the Secretary; but he is not--for he is too independent to -crave--then the case would be very different." - -"The Secretary!" exclaimed the Governor-General, "what has he to do -with it?" - -(The lady had aroused his Lordship's sympathy, and now she had touched -his pride, and inflamed his vanity.) - -"I thought he had all to do with it, my Lord." - -"You shall see that he has _not_," said the Governor-General. "Be -comforted, my dear madam, and come to the refreshment room." His -Lordship gave her his arm, and led her away from the couch on which -they had been conversing. - -This "children's dodge," as it was called, was eminently successful. -The lady's husband was appointed superintendent of one of the most -delightful hill stations in India, on a salary of 1200 rupees -(120_l_.) per mensem. - -The ball over, at half-past two in the morning we returned to our -house, where I was disgusted to hear that a leopard had carried off out -of the verandah a favourite dog of mine. It is no easy matter to keep -a dog in Simlah, except in the house. The leopards are always on the -look-out for them, and will often carry them off in your very sight, -while you are riding or walking along the road. - -The great business at Simlah, as at Mussoorie, is devising the means -of amusement, or rather of varying the amusements so as to render them -less irksome than they would otherwise become. Cards and billiards -are the principal pastimes; and, now and then, pic-nic and excursion -parties are got up; and, once or twice a month, private theatricals -are resorted to. Invitations to dinner-parties and evening-parties -are plentiful enough; but to men who go to Simlah without wives and -families, and who don't intend to marry in the East, these reunions are -a bore rather, after a brief while, and such men prefer dining under -their own roofs. There was an hotel at Simlah, kept by a Frenchman, who -provided a _table d'hôte_ every day at seven o'clock. This used to be -very well attended; for, generally speaking, better fare was to be got -there than anywhere else. By the way, the host had once been an officer -in the French army, and was rather a touchy man. On one occasion an -officer complained of the character of some dish on the table, and -was challenged to "fight with either sword or pistol." This challenge -was declined; but the officer said he would have no objection to an -encounter, provided the weapons were cold legs of mutton. - -There is an enormous mountain at Simlah, and around its base there is -a good macadamized road, some fifteen feet wide. This is the favourite -ride of the visitors, and every fine afternoon some sixty gentlemen, -and nearly as many ladies, may be seen upon it taking the fresh air. - -Simlah is a much more expensive place to spend the summer at than -Mussoorie, in consequence of its great distance from the plains, whence -almost every article of food and all descriptions of "stores" are -carried on men's shoulders. The mutton of the hill sheep is not equal -to Welsh mutton; but when properly kept and dressed, it is very good -eating. The hill cattle also afford tolerable beef; but the joints are -very small. House-rent at Simlah is also much dearer. The furnished -abode, for which we paid 100_l_. for the season, we could have got at -Mussoorie for 60_l_. The same may be said of articles of clothing and -of merchandize. The majority of the European shopkeepers (there were -only five or six) appeared to be doing a good business; but I question -whether they made money. They have to give, in most cases, very long -credit, pay high rates of interest to the banks for money, and high -rents for the extensive premises they are obliged to occupy, to say -nothing of having to live as all English people must live in India. -The hotel did not pay the proprietor, notwithstanding his house was -generally full of people, and his charges were seemingly exorbitant. - -There was no club at Simlah when I was there; but, since then, one -was established. Its existence, however, was very brief. The fact is, -people in India very soon grow tired of a thing; and, what is even -worse, you will find that when a large number of persons, who have -really nothing to do but amuse themselves, very frequently meet, they -wrangle, quarrel, split into small coteries, and become on very bad -terms with each other. How the old Himalaya Club at Mussoorie has -existed so long, is miraculous. A club in India is not like a club in -England, where scores of the members are unknown to each other, even -by name, and possibly do not meet more than once in a month. - -Some of the views at Simlah are magnificent; and from several points -may be seen, in the far distance, the river Sutlej, stealing its way -through the mountains. The water has the appearance, when the sun is -shining upon it, of a narrow stream of quicksilver. Some of the hills -are literally covered with rhododendron trees, fifty or sixty feet -high, and when they are all in full bloom the effect may be easily -imagined. - -To Jutsy, some five or six miles from Simlah, and where one of the -Goorkha battalions was always stationed, I have already alluded. There -are but two or three bungalows there, and they are occupied by the -officers of the battalion. - -The season that I spent at Simlah was a very pleasant one, and -notwithstanding it was enlivened by several exciting incidents--to wit, -a duel, a police affair, a court martial, and an elopement,--I was very -glad when it was over, and we could return to the plains. - - - - -TANTIA TOPEE. - - -When I visited the Nena Sahib, I saw this miscreant, who has since -so distinguished himself as a soldier and a general, and has recently -been captured and hanged. He was not called Tantia Topee at Bhithoor, -but "Bennie," simply. He was not a servant exactly--at all events -not a menial servant; but one of those numerous "hangers-on" of Nena -Sahib who repaid by flattery the favours they received in the shape -of board, lodging, and presents. The name of "Tantia Topee," so a -native gentleman in India informs me, was an assumed one; and I will, -therefore, speak of the hero as "Bennie," whom I remember sufficiently -well to describe him. I had not the least idea when I gave him a -general letter of recommendation, that he would fill so many pages of -Indian history, and give brigades and divisions of British troops such -trouble and vexation before they succeeded in catching him. - -Bennie was not more than thirty, and at the time of his execution his -age could not have exceeded forty years. I question even if he were so -old as that, though he may have looked older. He was a man of about -the middle height--say five feet eight--rather slightly made, but very -erect. He was far from good-looking. The forehead was low, the nose -rather broad at the nostrils, and his teeth irregular and discoloured. -His eyes were expressive and full of cunning, like those of most -Asiatics; but he did not strike me as a man of eminent ability. There -were a few men amongst Nena Sahib's flatterers who were really clever -men, but they were not Mahrattas; and my impression is that Bennie -was not a Mahratta, but a member of some obscure family in the Upper -Provinces of India, under British rule. Like the rest of the tribe -of flatterers who surrounded Nena Sahib, Bennie was obsequious and -cringing to every European who visited Bhithoor. This demeanour, of -course, was not the offspring of respect, but prompted rather by the -impression that it might tend to some advantage. - -There are many persons in India, natives especially, who are of -opinion that Nena Sahib did not dictate the atrocities that were -committed at Cawnpore; but that they were committed by order of the -various adventurers, such as Bennie, who became powerful the moment -that Nena Sahib consented to rebel and raise his standard. Asiatics -are frequently placed in the awkward position of being responsible -for the acts of their retainers--acts that they not only do not -sanction, but forbid. This was the case with Moolraj, the Governor of -Mooltan. From the first, and to the day of his death, he declared (and -his declaration was supported by the very strongest circumstantial -evidence) that so far from giving an order to his turbulent soldiery -to kill or attack Messrs. Vans Agnew and Anderson, he did all in his -power to shield them from harm. Indeed the verdict of the camp which -condemned him, rather inconsistently, brought in a verdict of "Guilty; -but a victim of circumstances." - -That Nena Sahib well deserves the fate that is in store for him, -whenever he is captured, there can be no species of doubt; but, in the -absence of some proof, I should be sorry--especially after the letters -I have read on the subject--to attribute to the man that fiendish -treachery and horrible massacre which took place at Cawnpore in July, -1857. Nena Sahib had seen so much of English gentlemen and ladies, and -was personally (if not intimately) acquainted with so many of the -sufferers that it is only fair to suppose, when he ordered boats to -be got ready, he was sincere in his desire that the Christians should -find their way to Calcutta, and that what ensued was in violation of -his orders, and the act of those who wished to place for ever between -Nena Sahib and the British Government an impassable barrier, so far as -peace and reconciliation were concerned. No one knew better than Nena -Sahib that, in the event of the British becoming again the conquerors -of India, the very fact of his having spared the lives of those who -surrendered, would have led to the sparing of his own life, and hence -the promise he made to Sir Hugh Wheeler. One friend (a gentleman of -great experience) writing from India on this subject, says:-- - -"In my opinion it was the Mahommedan soldiery who insisted on that -awful measure. Having so many helpless Christians in their absolute -power, they could not resist the temptation of sacrificing them, for -their _faith's sake_." - -It is to be regretted that previous to hanging "Tantia Topee," some -statement was not extracted from him touching what took place at -Cawnpore. Of course, it could not have been relied upon _per se_, but, -as evidence, confirmatory or contradictory, of other statements made -by other miscreants, who may yet fall into our power, it would not -have been _entirely_ valueless. I do not mean to say that the culprit -should have been allured to confess by any promise, or insinuation, -that his life would be spared if he spoke the truth. That is, I would -not have breathed the word of promise to his ear, and then have broken -it to the hope; nor would I have subjected him to any _corporeal_ -torture. Nevertheless, I would have had "out of him" something like -"the truth"--if not "the whole truth, and nothing but the truth," -and so would Sir John Lawrence, or Mr. Wingfield, now at Lucknow, or -Mr. Dampier, or Major Elwall, and a score of ex-Thuggee officers now -living. It is a sad mistake to hang this sort of people in a hurry; or, -for the matter of that, to hang them at all. They have not that dread -of death that Europeans have, but almost invariably meet their fate -without exhibiting the faintest fear. There are punishments which, to -their minds, are far more terrible. They are not as "cowards who die -a thousand deaths in dreading one which must come at last." They are -rather cowards who die a thousand deaths in dreading one _life_ which -they long to end. I was never more impressed with the truth of this -than when, with the permission of Lord Dalhousie, I had an interview -with Moolraj in his cell at Lahore; he was then under the charge of Dr. -(now Sir John) Logie, who is "in attendance" on the Maharajah Dulleep -Singh. The constant cry of the wretched captive was, "Ah, let them take -my life by one blow; but not draw it out of me by slow degrees!" As far -as I can recollect, it was not then decided whether his life should be -spared or not. - -I would treat culprits like Tantia Topee, Nena Sahib, Bahadoor Khan, -the Nawab of Bandah, &c., much in the same way as the convicts of -Norfolk Island were treated in former days--make death the first favour -for which they should crave, and the last which should be granted unto -them; but with this difference, that if they murdered each other, the -hope of ending their days for the deed should be a vain one. To hang -such men is to frustrate the end and real object of all punishment, -which is to deter others from the commission of the same offence. When -such men are exterminated they are speedily forgotten, and their end -is not regarded as an example for the prevention of evil; but so long -as they are living, and suffering what to them is far worse than death, -the case is otherwise. Be it known, however, that I am not an advocate -for the abolition of capital punishment in _this_ country for the crime -of murder. The gallows, judiciously used, is, in my humble judgment, a -very wholesome terror. - - THE END. - - - - - LONDON: - SAVILL AND EDWARDS, PRINTERS, - CHANDOS STREET. - - - - -Transcriber's Notes - -Obvious errors of punctuation and diacritics repaired. - -The following alternate spellings have not been changed: -"sanitarium" / "sanatarium", "Hindostan(ee)" / "Hindoostan(ee)". - -Variants of "Goorkha" were changed to that spelling (pp. 21, 311, 409). - -Hyphen removed: Deyrah Dhoon (p. 26), mantelpiece (p. 106). - -Hyphen added: band-stand (p. 256), head-quarters (p. 313), mem-Sahib -(p. 116), mid-day (p. 127). - -The following phrases are spelled both with and without hyphens and -have not been changed: "a-year", "a-month", "a-day". - -P. 11: "hand" changed to "hard" (becomes a hard gallop). - -P. 28: added "a" (became eventually a marker at a billiard-room). - -P. 72: "way" changed to "was" (he was playing one morning). - -P. 82: "Duleep Singh" changed to "Dulleep Singh". - -P. 83: "contures" changed to "conjectures" (There were many -conjectures). - -P. 107: "the" added (dinner was on the table). - -P. 123: added "a" (two thousand a year). - -P. 140: "far" changed to "for" (for the trial of offenders). - -P. 165: duplicated "not" removed (who not only deposited with him the -child). - -P. 179: "Mogul Emperors" changed to "Moghul Emperors". - -P. 230: "followship" changed to "fellowship" (the scene of -good-fellowship and good-feeling). - -P. 234: "af" changed to "of" (military men of all grades). - -P. 288: "hunded" changed to "hundred" (one hundred and fifty men). - -P. 300: "develope" changed to "develop" (develop the resources of -India). - -P. 335: "sirbar" changed to "sirdar" (our host of the sirdar-bearer). - -P. 336: "he" changed to "be" (he might be put into his vehicle). - -P. 362: "chesnut" changed to "chestnut" (His chestnut wig). - -P. 362: "died" changed to "dyed" (his whiskers were dyed so adroitly). - -P. 412: "and" added (English gentlemen and ladies, and was personally). - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Wanderings in India, by John Lang - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WANDERINGS IN INDIA *** - -***** This file should be named 43997-8.txt or 43997-8.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/3/9/9/43997/ - -Produced by Moti Ben-Ari and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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