diff options
Diffstat (limited to '43921-8.txt')
| -rw-r--r-- | 43921-8.txt | 18379 |
1 files changed, 0 insertions, 18379 deletions
diff --git a/43921-8.txt b/43921-8.txt deleted file mode 100644 index ddc17d4..0000000 --- a/43921-8.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,18379 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of One Irish Summer, by William Eleroy Curtis - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: One Irish Summer - -Author: William Eleroy Curtis - -Release Date: October 9, 2013 [EBook #43921] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ONE IRISH SUMMER *** - - - - -Produced by KD Weeks, Greg Bergquist and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - - - - - -Transcriber's Note - -Certain typographical features, such as italic font, cannot be -reproduced in this version of the text. Any italicized font is -delimited with the underscore character as _italic_. Any "small cap" -text is shifted to all uppercase. The occasional 'oe' ligature is -given as separate characters. Fractions are formatted as, for -example, "2-1/4". - -Illustrations, of course, cannot be provided here, but their -approximate positions in the text are indicated as: - -[Illustration: caption] - -Please consult the more detailed notes at the end of this text for -the resolution of any other issues that were encountered. - - - - - ONE IRISH SUMMER - - - - -[Illustration: AN ANCIENT CELTIC CROSS AT GLENDALOUGH] - - - - - ONE IRISH SUMMER - - BY - - WILLIAM ELEROY CURTIS - - AUTHOR OF - - "_The Yankees of the East_," "_Between the Andes and the Ocean_" - "_Modern India_," "_The Turk and his Lost Provinces_" - "_To-day in Syria and Palestine_," _etc._ - - _ILLUSTRATED_ - - [Illustration] - - NEW YORK - - _DUFFIELD & COMPANY_ - - 1909 - - - - - COPYRIGHT, 1908, - BY WILLIAM E. CURTIS - - COPYRIGHT, 1909, - BY DUFFIELD & COMPANY - - - THE UNIVERSITY PRESS, CAMBRIDGE, U.S.A. - - - - - CONTENTS - - - PAGE - - I. A SUMMER IN IRELAND 1 - - II. THE CATHEDRALS AND DEAN SWIFT 15 - - III. HOW IRELAND IS GOVERNED 34 - - IV. DUBLIN CASTLE 53 - - V. THE REDEMPTION OF IRELAND 60 - - VI. SACRED SPOTS IN DUBLIN 77 - - VII. THE OLD AND NEW UNIVERSITIES 97 - - VIII. ROUND ABOUT DUBLIN 115 - - IX. THE LANDLORDS AND THE LANDLESS 130 - - X. MAYNOOTH COLLEGE AND CARTON HOUSE 143 - - XI. DROGHEDA, AND THE VALLEY OF THE BOYNE 159 - - XII. TARA, THE ANCIENT CAPITAL OF IRELAND 174 - - XIII. SAINT PATRICK AND HIS SUCCESSOR 188 - - XIV. THE SINN FEIN MOVEMENT 202 - - XV. THE NORTH OF IRELAND 209 - - XVI. THE THRIVING CITY OF BELFAST 222 - - XVII. THE QUAINT OLD TOWN OF DERRY 237 - - XVIII. IRISH EMIGRATION AND COMMERCE 247 - - XIX. IRISH CHARACTERISTICS AND CUSTOMS 260 - - XX. WICKLOW AND WEXFORD 268 - - XXI. THE LAND OF RUINED CASTLES 283 - - XXII. THE IRISH HORSE AND HIS OWNER 300 - - XXIII. CORK AND BLARNEY CASTLE 312 - - XXIV. REMINISCENCES OF SIR WALTER RALEIGH 330 - - XXV. GLENGARIFF, THE LOVELIEST SPOT IN IRELAND 343 - - XXVI. THE LAKES OF KILLARNEY 366 - - XXVII. INTEMPERANCE, INSANITY, AND CRIME 391 - - XXVIII. THE EDUCATION OF IRISH FARMERS 404 - - XXIX. LIMERICK, ASKEATON, AND ADARE 417 - - XXX. COUNTY GALWAY AND RECENT LAND TROUBLES 432 - - XXXI. CONNEMARA AND THE NORTHWEST COAST 443 - - XXXII. WORK OF THE CONGESTED DISTRICTS BOARD 459 - - INDEX 475 - - - - - LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS - - - An Ancient Celtic Cross at Glendalough _Frontispiece_ - - FACING PAGE - - Queenstown 4 - - The Rock of Cashel, County Tipperary 8 - - Holycross Abbey, County Tipperary 10 - - St. Patrick's Cathedral, Dublin 16 - - The Tomb of Strongbow, Christ Church Cathedral, Dublin 32 - - The Earl of Aberdeen, Lord Lieutenant of Ireland in 1906-9 34 - - The Countess of Aberdeen 36 - - The Four Courts, Dublin 48 - - The Castle, Dublin; Official Residence of the Lord Lieutenant - and Headquarters of the Government 54 - - The Customs House, Dublin 78 - - The Bank of Ireland, Old Parliament House, Dublin 80 - - St. Stephen's Green, Dublin 90 - - Quadrangle, Trinity College, Dublin 98 - - Main Entrance, Trinity College, Dublin 102 - - Sackville Street, Dublin, showing Nelson's Pillar 116 - - Lighthouse at Howth, Mouth of Dublin Bay 122 - - Portumna Castle, County Galway; the Seat of the Earl of - Clanricarde 138 - - Maynooth College, County Kildare 144 - - Carton House, Maynooth, County Kildare; the Residence of the - Duke of Leinster 152 - - A Celtic Cross at Monasterboice, County Louth 166 - - Ruins of Mellifont Abbey, near Drogheda, County Louth 168 - - Carrickfergus Castle 180 - - St. Patrick's Cathedral at Armagh, the Seat of Cardinal Logue, - the Roman Catholic Primate of Ireland 194 - - Cathedral, Downpatrick, where St. Patrick lived, and in the - Churchyard of which he was buried 196 - - The Village of Downpatrick 200 - - Rosstrevor House, near Belfast, the Residence of Sir John Ross, - of Bladensburg 210 - - Shane's Castle, near Belfast, the Ancient Stronghold of the - O'Neills, Kings of Ulster 216 - - Queen's College, Belfast 226 - - Albert Memorial, Belfast 228 - - The Giant's Causeway, Portrush, near Belfast 244 - - Bishop's Gate, Derry 246 - - Irish Market Women 260 - - An Ancient Bridge in County Wicklow 268 - - The Vale of Avoca, County Wicklow 272 - - The River Front at Waterford 290 - - Lismore Castle, Waterford County; Irish Seat of the Duke of - Devonshire 292 - - An Irish Jaunting Car 308 - - Going to Market 310 - - Queen's College, Cork 314 - - Blarney Castle, County Cork 322 - - Kilkenny Castle; Residence of the Duke of Ormonde 326 - - The Ancient City of Youghal, County Cork; the Home of Sir - Walter Raleigh 330 - - Myrtle Lodge; the Home of Sir Walter Raleigh 338 - - Lake Gougane-Barra, County Cork 348 - - Chapel erected by Mr. John R. Walsh of Chicago on the Island - of Gougane-Barra 350 - - The Pass of Keimaneigh through the Mountains between Cork - and Glengariff 352 - - Glengariff Bridge 356 - - Kenmare House, Killarney 372 - - Upper Lake, Killarney 376 - - Ross Castle, Killarney 380 - - Muckross Abbey, Killarney 384 - - A Window of Muckross Abbey, Killarney 388 - - Treaty Stone, Limerick 422 - - Adare Abbey, in the Private Grounds of the Earl of Dunraven, - near Limerick 428 - - Fish Market, Galway 438 - - Salmon Weir, Galway 442 - - A Scene in Connemara 444 - - Clifden Castle, County Galway 448 - - A Scene in the West of Ireland; Lenane Harbor 450 - - Barnes Gap, County Donegal 460 - - An Irish Cabin in County Donegal 464 - - The Old: A Laborer's Sod Cabin; The New: Example of the - Cottages built in Connemara by the Congested Districts - Board 470 - - Interior and Exterior of One-Story Cottages erected by the - Congested Districts Board 472 - - - - - ONE IRISH SUMMER - - - - - I - - A SUMMER IN IRELAND - - -For those who have never spent a summer in Ireland there remains a -delightful experience, for no country is more attractive, unless it be -Japan, and no people are more genial or charming or courteous in their -reception of a stranger, or more cordial in their hospitality. The -American tourist usually lands at Queenstown, runs up to Cork, rides out -to Blarney Castle in a jaunting car, and across to Killarney with a -crowd of other tourists on the top of a big coach, then rushes up to -Dublin, spends a lot of money at the poplin and lace stores, takes a -train for Belfast, glances at the Giant's Causeway, and then hurries -across St. George's Channel for London and the Continent. Hundreds of -Americans do this each year, and write home rhapsodies about the beauty -of Ireland. But they have not seen Ireland. No one can see Ireland in -less than three months, for some of the counties are as different as -Massachusetts and Alabama. Six weeks is scarcely long enough to visit -the most interesting places. - -The railway accommodations, the coaches, the steamers, and other -facilities for travel are as perfect as those of Switzerland. The hotels -are not so good, and there will be a few discomforts here and there to -those who are accustomed to the luxuries of London and Paris, but they -can be endured without ruffling the temper, simply by thinking of the -manifold enjoyments that no other country can produce. - -And Ireland is particularly interesting just now because of the mighty -forces that are engaged in the redemption of the people from the poverty -and the wretchedness in which a large proportion of them have been -submerged for generations. No government ever did so much for the -material welfare of its subjects as Great Britain is now doing for -Ireland, and the improvement in the condition of affairs during the last -few years has been extraordinary. - -In order to observe and describe this economic evolution, the author -spent the summer of 1908 visiting various parts of the island and has -endeavored to narrate truthfully what he saw and heard. This volume -contains the greater part of a series of letters written for _The -Chicago Record-Herald_ and also published in _The Evening Star_ of -Washington, _The Times_ of St. Louis, and other American papers. By -permission of Mr. Frank B. Noyes, editor and publisher of _The Chicago -Record-Herald_, and to gratify many readers who have asked for them, -they are herewith presented in permanent form. - -About three hundred passengers landed with us at Queenstown. Most of -them were young men and young women of Irish birth, returning after a -few years' experience in the United States. Several had come home to be -married, but most of them were on a visit to their parents and other -relatives. Among those who disembarked were several older men and women -who were born in Ireland, but had been taken to America in infancy or in -childhood and were now looking upon the fair face of Erin for the first -time. - -There is an astonishing difference in the appearance and behavior of the -steerage passengers who are sailing east from those who are sailing -west. A few years, or even a few months, in America causes an -extraordinary change in the dress and the manners of a European peasant. -You can see it in the passengers that land at Genoa and Naples, and -those that land at Hamburg and Trieste. But it is even more noticeable -in the Americanized Irish who land at Queenstown by the thousand every -summer from New York. The Italian, the Hungarian, or the Pole who goes -aboard a steamer to America with his humble belongings and his quaint -looking garments is a very different person from the man who sails from -New York back to the fatherland a few years later. And the Irish boys -and girls who went ashore with us just as the sun was waking up Ireland -were as hearty, well dressed, and prosperous looking as you would wish -to see. And every young woman had a big "Saratoga" in place of the -"cotton trunk with the pin lock" that she carried away with her when she -left the old country for America the first time. I don't know what was -in those big trunks, although one can get a glimpse of their contents if -he stands by while the customs officers are inspecting them, but you can -see the names "Delia O'Connell, New York," "Katherine Burke, Chicago," -and "Mary Murphy, Baltimore," marked in big black letters at either end. -And what is most noticeable, the trunks are all new. They have never -crossed the ocean before, but will be going back again to America in a -few months. Their owners will not be contented with the discomforts they -will find at their old homes. Ireland is more prosperous today than for -generations, but conditions among the poorer classes are very different -from those that exist in the new world. - -The purser told me that he changed nearly $4,000 of American into -English money the day before we landed, for third-class passengers -alone. One man had $400; that was the maximum, but the rest of those who -disembarked at Queenstown had from $50 up to $250 and thereabouts in -cash, with their return tickets. - -Queenstown makes a brave appearance from the deck of a ship in the bay, -even before sunrise. It lies along a steep slope, with green fields and -forests on either side, and the most conspicuous building is a beautiful -gothic cathedral, with an unfinished tower, that was commenced in 1868 -and has cost nearly a million dollars already. The hill is so steep that -a heavy retaining wall has been built as a buttress to make the -cathedral foundations secure, and the worshipers must climb a winding -road or a sharp stairway to reach it. A little farther along the -hillside is an imposing marine hospital and group of barracks, from -which we could hear the bugles sounding "reveille" as we landed. There -are compensations to those who are marooned at Queenstown before -daylight, and one of them is the picturesque surroundings of the -ancient homes of the O'Mahony's, who ruled this part of Ireland for many -generations long ago. - -The harbor is like an amphitheatre, entirely inclosed by hills, three -hundred or four hundred feet high, that are covered with frowning -battlements. Every hilltop is strongly fortified. The bay, which is four -miles long and about two miles wide, contains several islands, upon -which the government has built warehouses, repair shops, shipyards, and -the other appurtenances of a naval station, guarded by Fort Carlisle, -Fort Camden, and other modern fortresses. Upon Haulbowline Island is a -depot for ammunition and other ordnance stores, and the pilot told me -that on Rocky Island near by were two magazines--great chambers chiseled -out of the living rock by Irish convicts who were formerly confined -there--and that each of them contained twenty-five thousand barrels of -powder belonging to the British navy. - -Queenstown has many handsome estates overlooking the sea and the bay -from the hills that inclose the harbor. There is an old ruined castle at -Monkstown that was built in 1636 by Anastasia Gould, wife of John -Archdecken, while her husband was at sea. She determined that she would -surprise him when he returned home. So she hired a lot of men to build a -castle with only the material they found on the estate, and made an -agreement with them that they should buy the food and clothing necessary -for their families from herself alone. It is the first record of a -"company store" that I know of. When the castle was finished and the -accounts were balanced it was found that the cost of the labor had been -entirely paid for by the profits of this thrifty woman's mercantile -transactions, with the sum of four pence as a balance to her credit. Her -husband returned in due time and was so delighted with his new home that -he never went to sea again. His estimable wife died in 1689, and was -buried in the churchyard of Team-pulloen-Bryn, where this story is -inscribed with her epitaph. - -On Wood's Hill, overlooking the bay, is a handsome estate that once -belonged to Curran, the famous lawyer and orator, whose daughter was -the sweetheart of Robert Emmet, the Irish martyr. Her melancholy romance -is related in Washington Irving's story called "The Broken Heart" and in -one of Tom Moore's ballads. - -[Illustration: QUEENSTOWN] - -It is 165 miles from Queenstown to Dublin, and the railroad passes -through several of the counties whose names are most familiar to -Americans, for they have furnished the greater portion of our Irish -immigrants--Cork, Limerick, Tipperary, Queens, and Kildare. Most of the -passengers who landed with us took the same train, and they were so many -that they crowded the little railway station to overflowing and created -a scene of lively confusion. Some of them had been met by brothers, -fathers, sweethearts, and friends, who were waiting two hours before -daylight, and the hearty greetings and enthusiasm they showed were -contagious. The sweethearts were easy to identify. The demonstrations of -affection left no doubt, but all the world loves a lover, and we -rejoiced with them. In the long line that stood before the ticket -seller's window at the railway station they chattered unconsciously like -so many sparrows, their arms around each other, with an occasional -embrace, a sly kiss and a slap to pay for it, tender caresses upon the -shoulder or the head, and other expressions of a happiness that could -not have been concealed. The home-bred young men gazed with wonder and -admiration at the finery worn by their sweethearts from America, who, by -the way, although they came third class, and were undoubtedly -chambermaids or shop girls in our cities, were the best-looking and the -best-dressed women we saw in Ireland. The pride of the parents at the -appearance and the manners of their sons or daughters showed that they -appreciated the accomplishments that American experience acquires. - -One of the younger passengers, a boy of twenty years, perhaps, told me -that he had come from Ohio to persuade his father to send his two -younger brothers back with him. They live in Tipperary, where "there is -no show for a young man now." Another young man had a tiny American flag -pinned to the lapel of his coat, and when I said, "You show your -colors," the lassie who clung to his arm turned at me with a determined -expression on her face and remarked: - -"I'll be takin' that off and pinnin' a piece of green in its place vera -soon." - -"No, you don't, darlin'; none o' that," he replied. "I'm an American -citizen, and I don't care who knows it. If you don't want to be one -yourself, I know another girl who does." - -The country through which the railway to Dublin runs affords a beautiful -example of Irish scenery. As far as Cork the track follows the bank of -the River Lee, which is inclosed on either side by a high ridge crowned -with stately mansions, glorious trees, and handsome gardens. Several of -the places are historic, and the scenery has been frequently described -in verse by the Irish poets. - -Father Prout, a celebrated rhymemaker of Cork, has described one of the -villages as follows: - - "The town of Passage is both large and spacious, - And situated upon the say; - 'Tis nate and dacent and quite adjacent - To Cork on a summer's day. - There you may slip in and take a dippin' - Foreninst the shippin' that at anchor ride, - Or in a wherry you can cross the ferry - To Carrigaloe on the other side." - -We could not see much from the car window, but we saw enough on the -journey to understand why it is called "The Emerald Isle" and why the -Irish people are so enthusiastic over its landscapes. The river is -walled in nearly all the distance to Cork, and there are many factories, -storehouses, and docks on both sides. Quite a fleet of steamers ply -between Queenstown and Cork, and trains on the railroad are running -every hour. Small seagoing vessels can go up as far as Cork, but the -larger ones discharge and receive their cargoes at Queenstown. We -couldn't see much of the towns because the railway tracks are either -elevated so that only the roofs and chimney pots are visible, or else -they are buried between impenetrable walls or pass through tunnels on -either side of the station. But when the train passed out into the open -a succession of most attractive landscapes was spread before us as far -as the horizon on either side, and the fields were alive with bushes of -brilliant orange-colored gorse, or furze, as it is sometimes called. -They lit up the atmosphere as the burning bush of Moses might have done. -Very little of the ground is cultivated. Only here and there is a field -of potatoes and cabbages, but the pastures are filled with fine looking -cattle and sheep, for this is the grazing district of Ireland, from -whence her famous dairy products and the best beef and mutton come. - -Beyond Portarlington we got our first glimpses of the bogs, with which -we are told one-sixth of the surface of Ireland is covered, an area of -not less than 2,800,000 acres. Bogs were formerly supposed to be due to -the depravity of the natives, who are too lazy to drain them and have -allowed good land to run to waste and become covered with water and -rotten vegetation, but this theory has been effectively disposed of by -science. Everybody should know that the bogs of Ireland are not only due -to the natural growth of a spongy moss called sphagnum, but furnish an -inexhaustible fuel supply to the people and have a value much greater -than that of the drier and higher land. The report of a "bogs -commission" describes them as "the true gold mines of Ireland," and -estimates them as "infinitely more valuable than an inexhaustible supply -of the precious metal." The average Irish bog will produce 18,231 tons -of peat per acre, which is equivalent to 1,823 tons of coal, thus making -the total supply of peat equivalent to 5,104,000 tons of coal, capable -of producing 300,000 horse power of energy daily for manufacturing -purposes for a period of about four hundred and fifty years. With coal -selling at $2 a ton in Ireland to-day, this makes the bogs of Ireland -worth $10,000,000,000. The "bog trotter" is an individual to be -cultivated, for when our coal deposits in the United States are -exhausted we may have to send over and buy some of his peat for fuel. It -is proposed to utilize these deposits and save transportation charges by -erecting power-houses at the peat beds and furnish electricity over -wires to the neighboring towns and cities for lighting, power, and other -purposes, "for anybody having work to do from curling a lady's hair to -running tramways and driving machinery." The writer refers to recent -installations of electric works in Mysore, India, for working gold -fields ninety miles distant, and quotes the late Lord Kelvin's opinion -that the city of New York will soon be getting its power from Niagara, -four hundred miles away. We saw them digging peat in the fields and -piling it up like damp bricks to dry in the sun. Freshly dug peat -contains about seventy per cent of moisture, but when cured the ratio is -reduced to fifteen or twenty per cent. - -A peat bog is not always in a hollow, but often on a hillside, and -sometimes at considerable height, which contradicts the theory that bogs -are due to defective drainage. Science long ago determined that Irish -peat was the accumulation of a peculiar kind of moss which grows like a -coral bank in the damp soil, and continues to pile up in layers year -after year, century after century, until it forms a solid mass, several -feet thick, seventy per cent moisture and thirty per cent fibre, which -burns slowly and furnishes a high degree of heat. We see bogs on all -sides of us where the peat is three and four feet thick, and with a long -straight spade that is as sharp as a knife, it is cut into blocks about -eight or ten inches long and about four inches square. A sharp spade -will slice it just as a knife would cut cheese or butter, and after the -blocks have lain on the ground a while they are stacked up on end in -little piles to dry. Then, when they have been exposed to the weather -for three or four weeks, they are stacked in larger piles, from which -they are carted away and sold or used as they are needed. - -[Illustration: THE ROCK OF CASHEL, COUNTY TIPPERARY] - -Four tons of peat are equal in caloric energy to one ton of coal. I -noticed in the papers that a bill is pending before the House of Commons -to grant a charter to a company to erect a station in a bog near -Robertson, Kings County, twenty-five miles from Dublin, for generating -electricity from peat, the power to be transmitted to Dublin and the -suburban towns for lighting, transportation, and manufacturing -purposes. Several other projects of a similar sort have been suggested -for utilizing the peat at the bog instead of carting it into town. - -Beyond the peat beds rises a chain of low mountains with a curious -profile that runs west of the town of Templemore. Like every other freak -of nature in Ireland, they are the scenes of many interesting legends. -The highest peak is called "The Devil's Bit," and the queer shape is -accounted for by the fact that the Prince of Darkness in a fit of hunger -and fatigue once took a bite out of the mountain, and, not finding it to -his taste, spat it out again some miles to the eastward, where it is now -famous as the Rock of Cashel. - -Cashel, at present a miserable, deserted village, was once the rich and -proud capital of Munster. Adjoining the ruins of the cathedral is the -ancient and weather-worn "Cross of Cashel," which was raised upon a rude -pedestal, where the kings of Munster were formerly crowned. The ruins -are more extensive than anywhere else in Ireland, for Cashel at one time -was the ecclesiastical capital of Ireland and its greatest educational -centre. Here the Pope's legates resided and here Henry II., in 1172, -received the homage of the Irish kings. But what gives the place its -greatest sanctity is the fact that St. Patrick spent much time there and -held there the first synod that ever assembled in Ireland, about the -middle of the fifth century. That is supposed to have been the reason -for the erection of so many sacred edifices and monasteries in early -days. St. Declan lived there, too, and commemorated his conversion to -Christianity by the erection of one of the churches. Donald O'Brien, -King of Limerick, erected another, and his son Donough founded an abbey -in 1182. Holy Cross, beautifully situated in a thick grove on the banks -of the River Suir, was built in 1182 for the Cistercian order of monks. -It derived its name because a piece of the true cross, set with precious -stones and presented to a grandson of Brian Boru by Pope Pascal II., was -kept there for centuries, and made the abbey the object of pilgrimages -of the faithful from all parts of Ireland. This precious relic is now -in the Ursuline convent at Cork. - -Cashel was destroyed during the civil wars. The famous Gerald -Fitzgerald, the great Earl of Kildare, had a grudge against Archbishop -Cragh and burned the cathedral and the bishop's palace. He excused the -act before the king on the ground that he "believed the archbishop was -in it." - -A little beyond Templemore, at Ballybrophy Junction, a branch of the -main line of the railway leads to the town of Birr, which is famous as -the seat of the late Earl of Rosse, whose father erected an observatory -there many years ago, with one of the largest and finest telescopes in -the world. It is twenty-seven feet long, with a lens three feet in -diameter. Some of the most important discoveries of modern astronomy -have been made there, and Birr has been the object of pilgrimages for -scientific men for more than half a century. The old Birr castle has -been much enlarged and modernized by the late earl, who died in -September, 1908, and is surrounded by an estate of thirty-six thousand -acres, upon which is one of the best built and well kept towns in -Ireland. He was a scholar and scientist of reputation, president of the -Royal Irish Academy and the Royal Dublin Society, and interested in -important manufactories and enterprises. He was especially active in -developing the steam turbine. - -All of that section of Ireland covered by the journey between Dublin and -Cork is associated with heroic struggles. It has been fought over time -and again by the clans and the factions that have struggled to rule the -state. Every town and every castle has its tragic and romantic history. -Almost every valley is associated with a legend or an important event. -The woods and the hills are still peopled with fairies, and local -traditions among the humble folks are the themes of fascinating tales -and songs. But the natives one sees at the railway stations do not look -at all romantic. A sentimental person is compelled to endure many severe -shocks when he comes in contact with the present generation of Irish -peasants. - -[Illustration: HOLYCROSS ABBEY, COUNTY TIPPERARY] - -The people of Ireland are more prosperous to-day (July, 1908) than -they have been for generations. Their financial condition is better than -it ever has been, and is improving every year. The bank deposits, the -deposits in postal savings banks, the government returns of the taxable -property, have advanced steadily every year for the last ten years, and -in Ireland, during the last ten years, there has been a gradual and -healthful improvement in every branch of trade and industry. The people -are more prosperous than in England or Scotland, except in certain -sections where poverty is chronic because of climatic reasons and the -barrenness of the soil. Nevertheless, they are not so prosperous as they -ought to be under the circumstances, and it would require a book, and a -large book, to repeat the many theories that are offered to explain the -situation. It is a question upon which very few people agree, and they -probably never will agree. There are almost as many theories as there -are people. Therefore a discussion is not only disagreeable but it would -lead immediately into politics. It is safe to say, however, that every -Irishman who is willing to take a farm and cultivate it with -intelligence and industry will prosper if he will let politics and -whisky alone. Idleness, neglect, intemperance, and other vices produce -the same results in Ireland as elsewhere, and under present conditions -industry and thrift will make any honest farmer prosperous. - -The moral and intellectual regeneration of the country is keeping step -with the material regeneration. All religious qualifications and -disqualifications have been removed; the church has been divorced from -the state, and each religious denomination stands upon an equality in -every respect. - -The penal laws have been repealed and the tithe system has been -abolished. - -Local representative government prevails everywhere. - -Nearly every official in Ireland is a native except the lord-lieutenant, -the treasury remembrancer, and several agricultural experts who are -employed as instructors for the farmers and fishermen by the -Agricultural Department, and the Congested Districts Board. - -The primary schools of Ireland are now free; free technical schools have -been established at convenient locations for the training of mechanics, -machinists, electricians, engineers, and members of the other trades. - -Two new universities have been authorized,--one in the north and the -other in the south of Ireland,--for the higher education of young men -and women. - -Temperance reforms are being gradually accomplished by the church and -secular temperance societies, which are working in harmony; the license -law has been amended so as to reduce the number of saloons, and -three-fourths of the saloons are closed on Sunday throughout the island. -The Father Mathew societies are gaining in numbers; the use of liquor at -wakes and on St. Patrick's Day has been prohibited by the Roman Catholic -bishops, and the number of persons arrested for drunkenness and -disorderly conduct is decreasing annually. - -Every tenant that has been evicted in Ireland during the last thirty -years has been restored to his old home, and the arrears of rent charged -against him have been canceled. - -The land courts have adjusted the rentals of 360,135 farms, and have -reduced them more than $7,500,000 a year. - -More than one hundred and twenty-six thousand families have been enabled -to purchase farms with money advanced by the government to be repaid in -sixty-eight years at nominal interest. - -Several thousand families have been removed at government expense from -unproductive farms to more fertile lands purchased for them with -government money to be repaid in sixty-eight years. - -Thousands of cottages, stables, barns, and other farm buildings have -been built and repaired by the government for the farmers, and many -millions of dollars have been advanced them for the purchase of cattle, -implements, and other equipment through agents of the Agricultural -Department. - -More than twenty-three thousand comfortable cottages have been erected -for the laborers of Ireland with money advanced by the government to be -repaid in small instalments at nominal interest. - -The landlord system of Ireland is being rapidly abolished; the great -estates are being divided into small farms and sold to the men who till -them. The agricultural lands of Ireland will soon be occupied by a -population of independent farm owners instead of rent-paying tenants. - -The Agricultural Department is furnishing practical instructors to teach -the farmers how to make the most profitable use of their land and labor, -how to improve their stock, and how to produce better butter, pork, and -poultry. - -The Agricultural Department furnishes seeds and fertilizers to farmers -and instructs them how they should be used to the best advantage. - -The Irish Agricultural Organization Society has instructed thousands of -farmers in the science of agriculture and has established thousands of -co-operative dairies and supply stores to assist the farmers in getting -higher prices for their products and lower prices for their supplies. - -The Congested Districts Board has expended seventy million dollars to -improve the condition of the peasants in the west of Ireland; to provide -them better homes and to place them where they can get better returns -for their labor. - -Thousands of fishermen have been furnished with boats, nets, and other -tackle; they have been supplied with salt for curing their fish; casks -and barrels for packing them; have been provided with wharves for -landing places and warehouses for the storage of their implements and -supplies; and government agents have secured a market for their fish and -have supervised the shipments and sales. - -Thousands of weavers have been furnished with looms in their cottages at -government expense, so that they can increase their incomes by -manufacturing home-made stuffs. - -Schools have been established at many convenient points in the west of -Ireland, where peasant women and girls may learn lace-making. The -government furnishes the instruction free, supplies the materials used, -and provides for the sale of the articles made. - -Work has been furnished with good wages for thousands of unemployed men -in the construction of roads and other public improvements. - -District nurses have been stationed at convenient points along the west -coast, where there are no physicians, to attend the sick and aged and -relieve the distress among the peasant families, and hospitals have been -established for the treatment of the ill and injured at government -expense. - - - - - II - - THE CATHEDRALS AND DEAN SWIFT - - -St. Patrick's Cathedral is, perhaps, the most notable building in -Ireland, and one of the oldest. During the religious wars and the -clashes of the clans in the early history of Ireland it was the scene -and the cause of much contention and violence. Its sacred walls were -originally arranged as fortifications to defend it against the savage -tribes and to protect the dignitaries of the church, who resided behind -embattled gates for centuries. At one time St. Patrick's was used as a -barrack for soldiers, and the verger will show you an enormous baptismal -font, from which he says the dragoons used to water their horses, and -the interior was fitted up for courts of law. Henry VIII. confiscated -the property and revenues because the members of its chapter refused to -accept the new doctrines, and nearly all of them were banished from -Ireland. He abolished a small university that was attached to the -cathedral by the pope in 1320 for the education of priests. For five -hundred years there was a continuous quarrel between St. Patrick's and -Christ Church Cathedral, which stands only two blocks away, because of -rivalries over ecclesiastical privileges, powers, and revenues. Finally -a compromise was reached, under which there has since been peace between -the two great churches and relations similar to those of Westminster -Abbey and St. Paul's in London. Christ Church is the headquarters of the -episcopal see of Dublin, and St. Patrick's is regarded as a national -church. The chief reason why St. Patrick's has such a hold upon the -affections and reverence of the people is because it stands upon the -site of a small wooden church erected by St. Patrick himself in the year -450 and within a few feet of a sacred spring or well at which he -baptized thousands of pagans during his ministry. The exact site of the -well was identified in 1901 by the discovery of an ancient Celtic cross -buried in the earth a few feet from the tower of the cathedral. The -cross is now exhibited in the north aisle. The floor of the church is -only seven feet above the waters of a subterranean brook called the -Poddle, and during the spring floods is often inundated, but in the -minds of the founders the sanctity of the spot compensated for the -insecure foundations. - -St. Patrick's little wooden building, which is supposed to be the first -Christian sanctuary erected in Ireland, was replaced in 1191 by the -present lofty cruciform edifice, three hundred feet long and one hundred -and fifty-seven feet across the transepts. It was designed and erected -by Comyn, the Anglo-Norman archbishop of Dublin, is supposed to have -been completed in 1198, and was raised to the rank of a cathedral in -1219. There were frequent alterations and repairs during the first seven -centuries of its existence, until 1864-68, when it was perfectly -restored by Sir Benjamin Guinness, the great brewer, who also purchased -several blocks of dilapidated slums that surrounded it, tore down the -buildings, and turned the land into a park which not only affords an -opportunity to see the beauties of the cathedral, but gives the poor -people who dwell in that locality a playground and fresh air. Sir -Benjamin purchased several of the adjoining blocks and erected upon them -a series of model tenement-houses, the best in Dublin, and rents them at -nominal rates to his employees and others. On the other side of the -cathedral are several blocks of the most miserable tenements in the -city, and sometime they also will be cleared away. A bronze statue has -been erected in the churchyard as a reminder of his generosity. - -[Illustration: ST. PATRICK'S CATHEDRAL, DUBLIN] - -Benjamin Guinness was the great brewer of Dublin. In 1756 one of his -ancestors started a little brewing establishment down on the bank of the -Liffey River in the center of the city, which has been extended from -time to time until the buildings now cover an area of more than forty -acres. The property and good will were transferred by the Guinness -family to a stock company for $30,000,000 in 1886, and since then the -plant has been enlarged until it now exceeds in extent all other -breweries in the world, represents an investment of $50,000,000, and -turns out an average of two thousand one hundred barrels of beer a day. - -Sir Benjamin's son, Edward Cecil Guinness, was elevated to the peerage -as Lord Iveagh and is the richest man in Ireland to-day. He is highly -respected, has married into the nobility, is a great favorite with the -king, is generous and philanthropic, encourages and patronizes both -science and athletic sports, and is said to be "altogether a very good -fellow." Another son is Lord Ardilaun, who is equally rich and popular, -and owns several of the finest estates in the kingdom. - -Sir Benjamin expended $1,200,000 in restoring St. Patrick's Cathedral, -and Lord Iveagh, his son, added $350,000 more. The driver of the -jaunting car that carried us there told me how many billion of glasses -of beer those gifts represented, and made some funny remarks about all -the profit being in the froth. But if all men were to make such good use -of their money there would be no reason to complain. - -St. Patrick's Cathedral is the official seat of the Knights of St. -Patrick, and their banners, helmets, and swords hang over the choir -stalls, while in one of the chapels is an ancient table and a set of -ancient chairs formerly used at their gatherings. Since 1869 they have -met at Dublin castle. Many tattered and bullet-riddled battle flags -carried by Irish regiments hang in other parts of the cathedral, and if -they could tell the stories of the many brave Irishmen who have fought -and perished under their silken folds, it would be more thrilling than -fiction. Ireland has furnished the best fighting men in the British -Army, both generals and privates, since the invasion of the Normans. The -king's bodyguard of Highlanders is now almost exclusively composed of -Irish lads. In the north transept is a flag that was carried by an Irish -regiment at the skirmish at Lexington at the beginning of our -Revolution and at the attack on Bunker Hill. They brought it away with -them to hang it here with the trophies of Irish valor of a thousand -years. - -St. Patrick's is the Westminster Abbey of Ireland, and many of her most -famous men are either buried within its walls or have tablets erected to -their memory. John Philpott Curran, the great advocate and orator, and -Samuel Lover, the song writer and novelist, whose "Handy Andy" and -"Widow Machree," are perhaps the best examples of Irish humor in -literature, are honored with tablets; and Carolan, the last of the bards -for whom Ireland was once so celebrated. He died in 1788. M.W. Balfe, -author of that pretty little opera, "The Bohemian Girl," and many -beautiful ballads, including "I Dreamt I Dwelt in Marble Halls," has a -tablet inscribed with these words: - -"The most celebrated, genial and beloved of Irish musicians, -commendatore of Carlos III. of Spain, Chevalier of the Legion of Honor. -Born in Dublin, 15 May, 1808, died 20th of Oct., 1870." - -Balfe was born in a small house on Pitt Street, Dublin, which bears a -tablet announcing the fact. - -The man who wrote that stirring poem, "The Burial of Sir John Moore," -which begins, - - "Not a drum was heard, not a funeral note, - As his corse to the rampart we hurried,"-- - -lies in St. Patrick's. His name was Charles Wolfe, and he was once the -dean of the cathedral. - -In the right-hand corner of the east transept is a monument to the -memory of a certain dame of the time of Elizabeth, named Mrs. St. Leger. -She was thirty-seven years old at the time of her death, and, her -epitaph tells us, had "a strange, eventful history," with four husbands -and eight children, all of whom she made comfortable and happy. - -On the other side is a tablet to commemorate the fact that Sir Edward -Fitten, who died in 1579, was married at the age of twelve years and -became the father of fifteen children,--nine sons and six daughters. - -The famous Archbishop Whately, the gentleman who wrote the rhetoric we -studied in college, and who once presided over this diocese, is buried -in a stately tomb, and his effigy, beautifully carved in marble, lies -upon it. - -The most imposing monument of all, and one which is associated with much -history and tragedy, was erected in honor of his own family by Richard -Boyle, the first Earl of Cork, who was a great man in his day. So -pretentious was the monument that Archbishop Laud ordered it removed -from the cathedral. This was done by Thomas Wentworth, afterward Earl of -Strafford, who was sent over by King Charles with an armed force to -govern Ireland. Boyle, who had himself designed and expended a great -deal of money upon "the famous, sumptuous, and glorious tomb," which was -to immortalize him and sixteen members of his family, was so indignant -that he never forgave Strafford, and afterward caused the latter to be -betrayed to a shameful death at the hands of his enemies. - -The most interesting historic relic in the cathedral is an ancient oaken -door with a large hole cut in the center of it. It bears an explanatory -inscription as follows: - -"In the year 1492 an angry conference was held at St. Patrick, his -church, between the rival nobles, James Butler, Earl of Ormonde, and -Gerald Fitzgerald, Earl of Kildare, the said deputies, and their armed -retainers. Ormonde, in fear of his life, fled for refuge to the Chapiter -House, and Kildare, pressing Ormonde to the Chapiter House door, -undertooke on his honor that he should receive no villanie. Whereupon -the recluse, craving his lordship's hand to assure him his life, there -was a clift in the Chapiter House door pearced at trice to the end that -both Earls should shake hands and be reconciled. But Ormonde surmising -that the clift was intended for further treacherie refused to stretch -out his hand--" and the inscription goes on to relate that Kildare, -having no such nervousness, thrust his hand through the hole and -without the slightest hesitation. Ormonde shook it heartily and peace -was made. - -For centuries it was said that whoever might be Viceroy of Ireland it -was the Earl of Kildare who governed the country. A long line of -Kildares succeeded each other, and their living successor, better known -as the Duke of Leinster, is now the premier of the Irish nobility, -although he is still a boy, just twenty-one. Both the Kildares and the -Earls of Desmond were descended from Gerald Fitzgerald, who in the -thirteenth century founded that powerful clan known as the Geraldines. -In the fifteenth, and at the beginning of the sixteenth, century they -exercised absolute control in Ireland, and Garrett, or Gerald -Fitzgerald, the eighth Earl of Kildare, known as "The Great Earl," had -greater authority than any other Irishman has ever displayed in his -native island since the days of Brian Boru. At one time his daughter, -wife of the Earl of Clanricarde, appealed to her father from a quarrel -with her husband. The old gentleman took her part, ordered out his army, -and met his son-in-law in the battle of Knockdoe, where it is said eight -thousand men were slain. - -Near the entrance to St. Patrick's Cathedral is a long, narrow, brass -tablet upon which are inscribed the names of the fifty-seven deans who -have had ecclesiastical jurisdiction there from 1219 to 1902. The most -famous in the list is that of the Rev. Jonathan Swift, D.D., author of -"Gulliver's Travels," "The Tale of a Tub," and other equally well-known -works. He presided here for more than thirty years, and was undoubtedly -the most brilliant as well as the most remarkable clergyman in the -history of the diocese of Dublin. He was the greatest of all satirists, -one of the most brilliant of all wits, and an all-around genius, but was -entirely without moral consciousness, altogether selfish, inordinately -vain, and one of the most eccentric characters in the history of -literature. He was born in Dublin Nov. 30, 1667; educated at Trinity -College, where he distinguished himself only by his eccentricities; was -curate of two churches, and dean of St. Patrick's Cathedral for more -than thirty years, although neither his manners nor his morals -conformed to the standards that are fixed for clergymen in these days. -He was more famous for his wit than his wisdom; for his piquancy than -for piety. He spent most of his life in Dublin, died there, was buried -in St. Patrick's Cathedral by the side of a woman whose life he wrecked, -and left his money to found an insane asylum which is still in -existence. - -The house in which Jonathan Swift was born can still be seen in Hoey's -Court, which once was a popular place of residence for well-to-do -people, and has several mansions of architectural pretensions, but has -degenerated into a slum, one of the many that may be found in the very -center of the business section of the city. He came of a good Yorkshire -family; his mother had aristocratic connections and was one of those -women who seem to have been born to suffer from the failings of men. His -father was a shiftless adventurer, following several professions and -occupations in turn without even ordinary success in any. Jonathan went -to the parish schools in Kilkenny for a time when his father happened to -be living in that locality, and when he was seventeen years old passed -the entrance examinations to Trinity College, Dublin. He was a willful, -independent, eccentric person, of a lonely and sour disposition, and -refused to be bound by the rules of the university. He would not study -mathematics or physics, but delighted in classical literature, and -furnished many witty contributions to college literature which gave -promise of genius. He wrote a play that was performed by the college -students with great success. His degree was reluctantly conferred by the -faculty through the influence of Sir William Temple, a famous statesman -of those days, whose wife was a distant relative of Swift's mother. - -Shortly after graduation he became private secretary to Sir William -Temple and attended him in London during several sessions of parliament. -While there, under some influence that has never been explained in a -satisfactory manner, Swift decided to enter the ministry, and took a -course of theology at Oxford. After his ordination in 1695 Sir William -Temple got him a living in a quiet, secluded village called Laracor, in -central Ireland, near Tara, the ancient capital, in a church that long -ago crumbled to ruins and has been replaced by a modern building. It was -a small parish consisting of not more than ten or twelve aristocratic -families, among them the ancestors of the great Duke of Wellington. The -young curate's congregation was not very regular in its attendance, and -you will remember, perhaps, an amusing story, how the Rev. Mr. Swift, -when he came from the vestry one Sabbath morning, found no one but the -sexton, Roger Morris, in the pews. He read the service, as usual, -however, and with that quaint sense of humor which cropped out in -everything he did, began solemnly: - -"Dearly beloved Roger, the Scripture moveth us in sundry places," etc. - -Coming to the conclusion that he was not fitted for parish work, Swift -obtained the position of private secretary to Earl Berkeley, one of the -lord justices of Ireland, but, after a while, got another church, and -tried preaching again. But he spent more of his time in writing -political satires than in prayer or sermonizing. He edited Sir William -Temple's speeches and wrote his biography, and went to London, where he -became a member of an interesting group of politicians and pamphleteers, -who supported Lord Bolingbroke. He contributed to _The Tattler_, _The -Spectator_, and other publications of the time, and soon became -recognized as one of the most brilliant and savage satirists and -influential political writers of the day. Through political influence, -and not because of his piety, he was appointed dean of St. Patrick's, -the most prominent and famous church in Dublin. He had not been in his -new position long before he created a tremendous sensation and set all -Ireland aflame by writing a political pamphlet signed "M.B. Drapier." - -In 1723 Walpole's government gave to the Duchess of Kendall, the -mistress of George I., a concession to supply an unlimited amount of -copper coinage to Ireland, and she took William Wood, an iron -manufacturer of Birmingham, into partnership. There was no mint in -Dublin and no limitation in the contract, so the firm of Kendall & Wood -flooded the island with new copper pence and half-pence upon which they -made a profit of 40 per cent. The coins became so abundant that they -lost their value. Naturally the contract created not only scandal, but -an intense indignation. Many pamphlets were published and speeches were -made denouncing the transaction. The most telling attack came from what -purported to be an unpretentious Dublin dry goods merchant, who told in -simple language the story of the coinage contract and related anecdotes -of Dublin women going from shop to shop followed by carloads of copper -coins from the factory of the Duchess of Kendall. He mentioned a -workingman who gave a pound of depreciated pennies for a mug of ale, and -declared that they were so worthless that even the beggars would not -accept them. - -The money was not really so much depreciated as Swift represented, but -the merchants of Dublin followed the advice of the simple draper and -refused to accept it any longer in trade. The government authorities -made a great fuss and arrested many of the repudiators, but the grand -juries refused to indict them, and on the contrary threatened to indict -merchants who accepted the shameful money. The printer of the pamphlet -was arrested, but never punished. The authorship became an open secret, -but the authorities dared not arrest the dean, whose popularity was so -great and who exercised such an extraordinary influence over the common -people that they accepted whatever he said as inspired and paid him the -greatest respect possible. His influence is illustrated by a story that -is related about a crowd which blocked the street around St. Patrick's -Cathedral one night to watch for an eclipse of the moon, and obstructed -traffic, but promptly dispersed when he sent one of his servants to tell -them that the eclipse had been postponed by his orders. He wrote -"Gulliver's Travels" about this period of his life in the deanery of St. -Patrick's, which was a part of what is now the barracks of the Dublin -police force. The present deanery, a modern building near by, contains -portraits of Swift and other of the fifty-seven clergymen who have -served as deans of St. Patrick's. - -About the same time he wrote another masterpiece of satire upon the -useless and impractical measures of charity for the poor adopted by the -government. It was entitled: - - A MODEST PROPOSAL - FOR PREVENTING THE CHILDREN OF - POOR PEOPLE IN IRELAND - FROM BEING A BURDEN TO - THEIR PARENTS BY - FATTENING AND EATING THEM. - -He wrote several bitter satires on ecclesiastical matters, which would -have caused his separation from the deanery under ordinary -circumstances, but the archbishop as well as the civil authorities was -afraid of his caustic pen. In discussing the bishops of the Church of -Ireland at one time he declared that they were all impostors. He -asserted that the government always sent English clergymen of character -and piety to Ireland, but they were always murdered on their way by the -highwaymen of Hounslow Heath and other brigands, who put on their robes, -traveled to Dublin, presented their credentials, and were installed in -their places over the several dioceses of Ireland. - -In 1729 the parliament of Ireland was installed in the imposing -structure that stands in the center of the city of Dublin opposite the -main buildings of Trinity College. Although the people had been -demanding home rule and a legislature of their own for years, the new -parliament soon lost its popularity. Its action provoked the hostility -of the fickle people and it was attacked on all sides for everything it -did. Swift took his customary part in the criticisms and christened the -parliament "The Goose Pie" because, as he said, the chamber had a crust -in the form of a dome-shaped roof and it was not remarkable for the -intellect or knowledge of its members. - -One of his lampoons, directed at parliament under the name of "The -Legion Club," begins as follows: - - "As I stroll the city, oft I - See a building large and lofty, - Not a bow-shot from the college, - Half the globe from sense and knowledge. - Tell us what the pile contains? - Many a head that holds no brains. - Such assemblies you might swear - Meet when butchers bait a bear. - Such a noise and such haranguing - When a brother thief is hanging." - -This does not sound very dignified for the dean of a cathedral, but it -was characteristic of Swift. - -He became a physical and mental wreck in 1742 and died an imbecile from -softening of the brain Oct. 9, 1745. His will, written before his mind -gave way, was itself a satire, and appropriately left his slender -fortune to found an insane asylum. The original copy may be seen in the -public records office in a beautiful great building known as the Four -Courts, the seat of the judiciary of Ireland, where the archives of the -government are kept. The insane asylum is still used for that purpose -and is known as St. Patrick's Hospital for Lunatics. It stands near the -enormous brewery of the Guinness company. It was the first of the kind -in Ireland, and was built when the insane were restrained by shackles, -handcuffs, and iron bars, but more humane modern methods of treatment -were introduced long ago and it is considered a model institution. The -corridors are three hundred and forty-five feet long by fourteen feet -wide, with little cells or bedrooms opening upon them. Swift's writing -desk is preserved in the institution. - -His whimsicalities are illustrated in the cathedral more than anywhere -else and among them is the "Schomberg epitaph," found in the north aisle -to the left of the choir, chiseled in large letters upon a slab of -marble. Duke Schomberg, who commanded the Protestant army of King -William of Orange at the Battle of the Boyne, and was killed toward the -end of that engagement, July, 1690, was buried in St. Patrick's at the -time of his death, but his grave remained unmarked. His bones were -discovered, however, in 1736, during some repairs, while Swift was dean -of the cathedral. In order that their ancestor's character and -achievements might be properly recognized and called to the attention of -posterity, Swift applied to the head of the Schomberg family for fifty -pounds to pay the expense of a memorial, which they declined to -contribute. Then Swift, whose indignation was excited, paid for the slab -himself and punished them by recording upon it in Latin that the -cathedral authorities, having entreated to no purpose the heirs of the -great marshal to set up an appropriate memorial, this tablet had been -erected that posterity might know where the great Schomberg lies. - -"The fame of his valor," he adds, "is much more appreciated by strangers -than by his kinsmen." - -Upon the other farther side of the church, between the tombs of the -Right Honorable Lady Elizabeth, Viscountess Donneraile, and Archbishop -Whately, the gentleman who wrote the rhetoric we studied at college, is -buried the body of an humble Irishman, who was Dean Swift's body servant -for a generation. He was eccentric but loyal, and as witty as his -master. One morning the dean, getting ready for a horseback ride, -discovered that his boots had not been cleaned, and called to Sandy: - -"Why didn't you clean these boots?" - -"It hardly pays to do so, sir," responded Sandy, "they get muddy so soon -again." - -"Put on your hat and coat and come with me to ride," said the dean. - -"I haven't had my breakfast," said Sandy. - -"There's no use in eating; you'll be hungry so soon again," retorted the -dean, and Sandy had to follow him in a mad gallop into the suburbs of -Dublin without a mouthful. - -When they were three or four miles away they met an old friend who asked -them where they were going so early. Before the dean could answer, Sandy -replied: - -"We're going to heaven, sir; the dean's praying and meself is fasting; -both of us for our sins." - -The epitaph of Sandy in St. Patrick's Cathedral reads as follows: - - HERE LIES THE BODY OF - ALEXANDER MAGEE, - SERVANT TO DR. SWIFT, DEAN - OF ST. PATRICK'S CATHEDRAL, - DUBLIN. - - His Grateful Master Caused This Monument to Be Erected in Memory - of His Discretion, Fidelity and Diligence in That Humble Station. - -That long-suffering woman known as Stella, whose relations with Dean -Swift have been discussed for a century and a half, and are still more -or less of a mystery, was Mrs. Hester (sometimes spelled Esther) -Johnson, a relative of Sir William Temple, whose private secretary -Jonathan Swift, her inconstant and selfish lover, was for several years. -Swift called her "Stella" because her name, "Hester," is the Persian for -"star," and first met her while he was curate of a little village church -at Laracor, where she lived with a Mrs. Dingley, a companion or -chaperon, who seemed to be always by her side, whether she was in Dublin -or London. From the beginning of their acquaintance she shared the inner -life of Swift and exercised an extraordinary influence over him. When he -left Laracor for London to become the private secretary of Sir William -Temple their remarkable correspondence commenced, and he wrote her a -daily record of his life, his thoughts, his whims, and his fancies. -Those letters have been published under the title of "Swift's Journal to -Stella," and the book has been described as "a giant's playfulness, -written for one person's private pleasure, which has had indestructible -attractiveness for every one since." - -She followed him to London and, when he became dean of St. Patrick's, -returned with him to Dublin and lived near the deanery with Mrs. Dingley -as her chaperon until her death. But Swift was not true to her. This -eminent author and satirist, this merciless critic of the shortcomings -of others, this doctor of divinity, this dean of the most prominent -cathedral in Ireland, had numerous flirtations with other women, and -Stella must have known of them, although there is no evidence that her -loyal heart ever wavered in its devotion. - -In 1694 he fell desperately in love with a Miss Varing, but seems to -have escaped without any damage to himself or his reputation, although -we do not know what happened to her. A few years later he became -involved in an entanglement with a Miss Van Homrigh, which ruined her -life and effectually destroyed his peace of mind. The character of their -acquaintance is shown by a series of poems which passed between them as -her passion developed, and he allowed it to drift on uninterrupted from -day to day, evidently giving her encouragement by tongue as well as pen. -His poetical communications to her were signed "Cadenus," the Latin word -for dean, and hers were signed "Vanessa," a combination of her Christian -and surname. - -It was not a very dignified situation for the dean of St. Patrick's, and -the flirtation caused a decided scandal in Dublin. It appears that -Vanessa expected Swift to marry her and he undoubtedly gave her good -reasons, while Mrs. Johnson was regarded as his mistress to the day of -her death and bore the odium with uncomplaining resignation. Long after -both of them were buried under the tiles of St. Patrick's Cathedral it -was discovered that they had been secretly married in 1716, but why she -consented to keep that fact a secret has never been explained except -upon the theory that she was afraid of what Vanessa Van Homrigh might -do. The latter, however, having lost her patience and becoming -hysterical with jealousy, wrote to Stella, inquiring as to the real -nature of her relations with Swift and demanding that she should -relinquish her claims upon him. Stella replied promptly by sending -Vanessa indisputable evidence that they had been married seven years -before. Vanessa, who lived at Marley Abbey, Celbridge (now Hazelhatch -Station), ten miles from Dublin, on the railway to Cork, sent Stella's -letter to Swift and retired to the house of a friend in the country, -where she died a few months later of a broken heart. Swift never -replied; he never saw her or communicated with her after that day, and -seems to have dismissed the affair with the same indifference that he -always showed concerning the interests of other people. - -Five years later Stella died and was buried in the cathedral at midnight -by Swift's orders, but he did not attend the funeral. She lived in the -neighborhood of the deanery, and from one of its windows he witnessed -the passage of the casket to the tomb. "This is the night of the -funeral," he writes in his diary, "and I moved into another apartment -that I may not see the light in the church, which is just over against -the window of my bed chamber." He then sat down at his desk and -described her devotion and her love for himself and her virtues in -language of incomparable beauty. His tribute, written at that moment, is -one of the most beautiful passages in English literature. He preserved a -lock of her hair upon which he inscribed the words: - -"Only a woman's hair!" - -"Only a woman's hair!" comments Thackeray. "Only love, fidelity, purity, -innocence, beauty; only the tenderest heart in the world, stricken and -wounded, and pushed away out of the reach of joy with the pangs of hope -deferred. Love insulted and pitiless desertion. Only that lock of hair -left, and memory, and remorse for the guilty, lonely, selfish wretch, -shuddering over the grave of his victim." - -Swift's extraordinary vanity is illustrated in the inscription he placed -over Hester Johnson's grave and his selfishness by his neglect to -vindicate her reputation by announcing their marriage. The mistress of a -dean is not usually buried in a cathedral over which he presides, but no -one has ever questioned the right of Stella's dust to be there. Her -epitaph, which was written by his own pen, runs: - -"Underneath is interred the mortal remains of Mrs. Hester Johnson, -better known to the world by the name of Stella, under which she was -celebrated in the writings of Dr. Jonathan Swift, dean of this -cathedral. - -"She was a person of extraordinary endowments and accomplishments in -body, mind, and behavior; justly admired and respected by all who knew -her on account of her many eminent virtues, as well as for her great -natural and acquired perfections. - -"She died Jan. 27, 1727, in the forty-sixth year of her age, and by her -will bequeathed £1,000 toward the support of the hospital founded in -this city by Dr. Steevens." - -Although Swift did his best work after Stella's death, he was never -himself again. He became sour, morose, and misanthropic. His soul burned -itself out with remorse. The last four years of his life were -inexpressibly sad, and the retribution he deserved came from inward -rather than outward causes. He was harassed by periodical attacks of -acute dementia, to which his wonderful brain gradually yielded, and -before his death he became an utter imbecile. He seemed to anticipate -and prepare himself for such a fate, because among his papers was found -his will, in which he bequeathed his entire estate to found an asylum -for just such creatures as he himself became. He prepared his own -epitaph, which reads as follows: - - "Hic Depositum est Corpus. - Jonathan Swift, S.T.P. - Hujus, ecclesiae cathedrae decani ubi saeva - Indignatio ulterius cor lacerare nequit. - Abi viator, et imitare, si poteris, - Strenuum pro virili libertatis vindiceim." - -A liberal translation reads: "Here is deposited the body of Jonathan -Swift, dean of this cathedral, where cruel indignation can no longer -lacerate the heart. Go, stranger, and imitate, if you can, his strenuous -endeavors in defense of liberty." - -The vault in which the two bodies rest has been twice disturbed during -repairs of the cathedral, in 1835, when casts of their skulls were -taken, and in 1882, when a new floor was laid. It is now marked by a -modest tablet of tiles near the south entrance to the cathedral. Upon a -bracket near by is a bust of Swift contributed by Mr. Faulkner, the -nephew and successor of his original publisher. - -Many anecdotes are told of Swift's peculiarities. He must have filled a -large place in the life of Dublin during the thirty years that he was -the dean of the cathedral. He was prominent in political, social, and -ecclesiastical affairs during all that period and always welcome as a -guest at the houses of the aristocracy in this neighborhood. In the -suburb of Glasnevin was an estate called Hildeville, belonging to a -generous but pretentious patron of the arts and sciences, named Dr. -Delany, where the brilliant minds of that day used to gather for a good -time. Swift is closely associated with the place and was one of Dr. -Delany's most frequent and regular visitors. He called it "Hell-Devil," -and chose for its motto "Fastigia Despicet Urbis," in which the verb is -used in a double sense. - -Many of his most stinging satires were written there, including his -ferocious libel on the Irish parliament. A reward was offered for the -discovery of the author, and although a hundred members of the commons -knew that it was from Swift's pen, no attempt was ever made to punish -him and he was never even denounced publicly. And he wasn't above -ridiculing his host, for here is an extract from an ode addressed to Dr. -Delany of "Hell-Devil," when he was the latter's guest: - - "A razor, though to say 't I'm loath, - Might shave you and your meadow both, - A little rivulet seems to steal - Along a thing you call a vale, - Like tears adown a wrinkled cheek, - Like rain along a blade of leek-- - And this you call your sweet meander, - Which might be sucked up by a gander, - Could he but force his rustling bill - To scoop the channel of the rill. - In short, in all your boasted seat, - There's nothing but yourself is--great." - -"Is it singin' yees want?" said the verger of Christ Church Cathedral, -Dublin, when we entered that ancient sanctuary shortly before the hour -for worship on a gloomy, drizzly Sabbath morning. "Then yees have come -to the roight place. The choir of Christ Church is the finest in all -Ireland, and mebbe in the whole wurrld, I dunno. Thay's twinty-four -b'ys and min, and every mother's son iv thim is from the first families -of Dooblin. The lads has been singin' frum their cradles, and they make -the swatest music that ears ever heard; blessed be the Lord! Not as if -they had no mischief in thim, for b'ys will be b'ys, singin' or no -singin'; and thim that has the medals hangin' on their chists is the -best behaved and the least mischaveous." - -We remained after the service to look about, and when the verger asked -what I thought of the sermon I told him. - -"It's not of much consequence!" observed the cynic. And when I told him -that the singing wasn't much better than the preaching, and that the -boys sang out of tune, he replied apologetically: - -"I hope your honor won't think the liss of thim for that; they're all -honest, well-meaning lads, an' what harm is it at all, at all, if they -do sing out of chune betimes?" - -Christ Church is one of the oldest structures in Ireland, was originally -erected in 1038 by the Danish king Sigtryg, "Of the Silken Beard," and -in 1152 was made the seat of the archbishop of Dublin. In 1172 -Strongbow, the Welch Earl of Pembroke, leader of the Norman invasion, -swept away the original building to make room for the present edifice, -which was fifty years in building. The present nave, transepts, and -crypt are those that Strongbow erected, having been thoroughly repaired -and restored by Henry Roe, a wealthy distiller, at a cost of £220,000, -between 1870 and 1878. In 1178 Strongbow died of a malignant ulcer of -the foot, which his enemies attributed to the vengeance of the early -Irish saints whose shrines he had violated, and he is buried within the -church he built. His black marble tomb is on the south side, with a -recumbent effigy in chain armor lying upon the sarcophagus. A smaller -effigy in black marble, representing the upper half of a human form, -lies beside him and is said to mark the tomb of Strongbow's son, whom -his father literally cut in half with his mighty sword for showing -cowardice in battle. Sir Henry Sidney, who discussed the question at -length in 1571, declares that there is no doubt that the remains of -Strongbow were deposited here, but there is another tomb, with a similar -effigy of one-half of his son lying beside it, in an ancient church at -Waterford, where Strongbow dwelt in a castle and made his headquarters. -The claims of the Waterford tomb are considered much stronger than those -of Christ Church in Dublin, because that was where he died and where his -wife and family lived after him. - -[Illustration: THE TOMB OF STRONGBOW, CHRIST CHURCH, DUBLIN] - -The interior of the church has many points of beauty, especially the -splendid stone work of the nave and aisles and the graceful arches -which, although very massive, are chiseled with such delicacy that their -heaviness does not appear. The floor is covered with modern tiles which -are exact copies of the originals, and in the restoration of the -building the architect has shown similar conscientiousness in all his -work. The great age of the stone gives it a rich and mellow tone, and -although here and there one may come across evidences of decay or -damage, it is in better condition than most of the modern churches of -Ireland. - -Across the street and connected by a bridge with the cathedral is the -Synod Hall, the headquarters of the general synod, which has control of -the affairs of the Episcopal Church of Ireland since it was separated -from the Church of England and made independent of the state by an act -of parliament July 26, 1869. This was called "The Disestablishment"--a -long and awkward word--but such words are common in English and Irish -official literature. It is often difficult for an American to understand -the meaning of the terms used in acts of parliament and reports of the -officials of the government. - - - - - III - - HOW IRELAND IS GOVERNED - - -Ireland is nominally governed by a lord lieutenant or viceroy of the -king, who, since December, 1905, and at present, is John Campbell -Gordon, Earl of Aberdeen. He occupied the same position in the '90's, -and has since been governor-general of Canada. Both Lord and Lady -Aberdeen are well known in the United States, where Lady Aberdeen has -taken an active interest in the work of the Women's Christian Temperance -Union and many benevolent enterprises and social reforms. She will be -particularly remembered as the promoter of the Irish village at the -Chicago Exposition in 1893, and for her successful endeavors to -introduce Irish homespun, lace, linen, and other products, and to make -them fashionable among the American people. She is a woman of great -energy, executive ability, and determination, and has been applying -those qualities very effectively in Ireland in local reforms. She has -organized societies of women throughout the island to encourage the -virtues and restrain the vices of the people, to relieve their distress -and advance their welfare, physically, mentally, and morally, by a dozen -different movements of which she is the leader and director. She started -a crusade against the great white plague, brought Dr. Arthur Green from -New York as an organizer, while Nathan Straus of New York has been -co-operating with her in setting up establishments for the sterilization -of the milk sold in Irish cities. She is president of almost everything, -has a dozen secretaries and agents carrying out her orders, and is -altogether the busiest woman in the United Kingdom. - -[Illustration: THE EARL OF ABERDEEN, LORD LIEUTENANT OF IRELAND IN - 1906-8] - -The Lord Lieutenant of Ireland has very little to do except to open -fairs, lay corner stones, preside at public meetings, give dinners, -and look pleasant. He is nominally the head of everything as the -representative of his sovereign, the king, and is supposed to rule -Ireland in his majesty's name, but, like the Governor-General of Canada, -the office is a sinecure. Its incumbent is allowed a salary of $100,000, -a castle in the city, and a country lodge in Ph[oe]nix Park, a liberal -allowance to maintain them and to expend in hospitality, a staff of -secretaries and aids-de-camp, a full outfit of servants, and various -other perquisites which would be appreciated by our President and all -others in authority. And all this without any responsibilities, except -to be tactful, amiable, and diplomatic, and to make friends with the -people. - -The actual ruler of Ireland is the Chief Secretary to the lord -lieutenant, who is a member of the cabinet of the king, and spends most -of his time in London, where he devises and directs the political policy -of the government toward that distracted but improving portion of his -majesty's empire, looks after legislation in parliament, and attends to -whatever is necessary for the good of the island. He is the Right Hon. -Augustine Birrell, who is carrying out the lines of policy inaugurated -by Mr. Bryce at the incoming of the present liberal government. The -chief secretary is expected to spend a portion of each year in Ireland, -so that he can keep in touch with affairs and get his cues from public -opinion. He has a salary of $35,000 and a residence, fully equipped and -appointed, near that of the lord lieutenant in Phoenix Park. - -The man on the ground, the general manager of the government, and the -_de facto_ head of the executive administration, is known as the Under -Secretary, who also has a handsome residence in Phoenix Park and all -worldly comforts provided for him. He presides at the ancient castle in -the center of the city of Dublin, surrounded by a staff of subordinates -and clerks, and supervises the work of the several executive -departments, most of them being scattered in rented quarters in -different parts of the city. The government has long ago outgrown the -castle and has appointed many officials and boards of commissioners and -organized new executive departments without erecting buildings to -accommodate them. Sir Antony Patrick MacDonnell, who resigned the office -of under secretary, and was elevated to the peerage as Lord MacDonnell -upon his retirement, is an Irishman who has spent his entire life in the -service of his king, the greater part of it in India, where he was -governor of four different provinces in succession and showed remarkable -administrative ability. Retiring voluntarily, he came home to Ireland -and was soon appointed to fill a vacancy in the office of under -secretary, where he was very active, very positive in his convictions, -and very determined in his methods. He made numerous recommendations -that have not been adopted, and attempted to carry out a policy that was -not acceptable to the politicians of Ireland, who rejected his plans for -self-government and refused his overtures. - -[Illustration: THE COUNTESS OF ABERDEEN] - -Sir Antony MacDonnell was the author of what is called the "devolution -policy." That's a big word and has little meaning in America, but in -Ireland it is in common use and full of significance; first being -applied to a certain political project in Ireland by Lord Dunraven in -1904. If you will look in the dictionary you will see that "devolution" -means "the act of devolving, transferring, or handing over; transmission -from one person to another; a passing or falling to a successor, as of -office, authority, or real estate." In its application to the Irish -situation devolution means the devolving upon the Irish people of purely -local affairs, to transfer their management from the British government -with a string tied to them, and that is what the Irish political leaders -will not consent to. Their motto is _aut_ home rule, _aut nullus_. With -the co-operation of the Earl of Dunraven and others, Sir Antony -MacDonnell prepared a plan of limited home rule in 1907. It gave the -government of Ireland entirely into the hands of the people with the -exception of the police, the courts, and the lawmaking power, which were -retained under British control. The proposition was discussed by the -largest convention ever held in the country and was unanimously rejected -on the theory that it did not go far enough. The Irish people will -never be satisfied until they are permitted to make their own laws. -There were many grounds of objection from the Roman Catholic -ecclesiastical authorities and others, who declare that Sir Antony's -plan of government, which was based upon his experience in India, could -not be applied successfully to conditions in Ireland. Sir Antony is a -very positive man, and when his solution of the Irish problem, to which -he had given years of thought and study, was rejected, he concluded that -he was not the man to rule that country and sent in his resignation, -which was accepted with great reluctance by the government and with -sincere regret by a majority of the people, who admire his ability and -have confidence in his integrity and intentions. - -His successor is Sir John Dougherty, his chief assistant, who has been -in the office of the under secretary in Dublin Castle all his life, and -has been promoted grade after grade from an ordinary clerkship to his -present position because of his ability and his sterling qualities. -Although he is not a man of marked individuality and initiative, like -Sir Antony MacDonnell, he is considered a safe, conservative, and -judicious administrator. - -The next in importance, who, perhaps, should be ranked first of all, is -a mysterious and autocratic official, known as the Treasury -Remembrancer. He was described to me as "a lord over all, and the best -hated man in Ireland. Nobody knows him or cares to know him. His fellow -officials seldom hear or speak his name. He is a spy and a spotter and -has arbitrary authority to disallow accounts, withhold allowances, and -lock up the money chest whenever he likes. There is no statute -authorizing his appointment, and there is no law or regulation defining -his duties or limiting his authority, which he receives from the -chancellor of the exchequer in London and to whom alone he reports." The -office pays $7,500 a year without any known perquisites, although the -remembrancer is supposed to have mysterious sources of revenue that have -never been found out. He cannot, however, spend the money of the crown. -His authority is limited to preventing expenditures. He is "the -watchdog of the treasury" in Ireland, and combines in one the duties and -powers which are intrusted to the comptroller and auditors of the -treasury in the United States. He interprets appropriation bills, -customs laws, and decides how much money can be expended for this -purpose and that. He audits all accounts, rejects many, disallows -overcharges, and makes everybody who has to do with government finances -a great deal of trouble. Hence his unpopularity and his habitual -reserve. - -In addition to these chief officials there are numerous secretaries and -assistant secretaries, commissioners and boards of various -jurisdictions, and executive departments, with corps of clerks similar -to those in Washington. Each has its functions over some branch of the -administration and all are subject to the supervision of the under -secretary and the chief secretary in London. Their commissions are -signed by the lord lieutenant, who knows nothing about them, has no -authority over them, and acts only in a formal capacity, as the -representative of the king. There is a great deal of complaint as to the -excessive number of "civil servants," as they call them over there, -although such a term would be resented by the employees of the civil -service in the United States. All railway officials are called -"servants" in Great Britain. Every salaried person comes within that -designation. Any one who will look over the printed register of -government employees in Ireland will conclude that home rule has already -been adopted, because the treasury remembrancer is said to be the only -Englishman on the pay roll, except the lord lieutenant, several of his -secretaries, and the military officers at the garrison, and several -Scotch experts in the employ of the Agricultural Department and -Congested Districts Board. But what spoils it all to the people of -Ireland is that these officials receive their appointments from what -they consider an alien authority. The touch of the English giver poisons -the gift. They will never be satisfied until their commissions are -signed by an Irish name. Nobody in the employ of the government is -loyal. Every man hates and loathes England, and doesn't hesitate to say -so in public and in private, on all occasions, although he draws his -rations from the British government. And when you remind him of that he -answers promptly that the money comes from the pockets of the Irish -rate-payers and England grabs £3,000,000 of it for herself. - -Ireland contributes an annual average of £10,500,000 in taxes to the -imperial treasury and £7,500,000 of it is expended in maintaining her -government and constructing her public works. The remaining three -millions is her contribution toward the support of the British empire, -the wages of the king, the expenses of parliament, the support of the -army and navy, and the interest upon the public debt, which is not kept -separately for Ireland, and for various other purposes. - -Ireland has twenty-three peers in the House of Lords and one hundred and -two representatives in the House of Commons, of whom eighty-two are -nationalists or home rulers. The remaining twenty are conservatives, -unionists, and anti-home rulers, who believe in maintaining the present -system of government and the existing relations between Great Britain -and Ireland. The Irish members of parliament have been a thorn in the -flesh of John Bull for many years, ever since Daniel O'Connell was -admitted to the imperial legislature in 1829. They have fought fiercely -for concessions term after term, have built fires in the rear of the -government and have attacked it upon all sides until they have -accomplished a great many reforms and are near to the point of achieving -final success. If the liberal party wins at the next election every -patriotic Irishman expects political emancipation, because its leaders -are pledged to complete home rule on the same basis that Mr. Gladstone -proposed several years ago, when he was prime minister. - -The Irish peerage, like that of Scotland, are not entitled to all the -rights and prerogatives enjoyed by the British peerage, and have only -twenty-eight seats in the House of Lords. The total peerage of Ireland -consists of two dukes, ten marquises, sixty-three earls, thirty-six -viscounts, and sixty-four barons, a total of one hundred and -seventy-five nobles, of whom seventeen also have titles in the English -peerage, nearly all by inheritance. - -The Irish peerage are represented in the House of Lords by twenty-eight -of their members who are elected for life. As soon as one of these -representative peers dies two or more of his colleagues notify the lord -high chancellor of England of the vacancy. The latter thereupon issues a -writ in the name of the king under the great seal proclaiming an -election. Copies of this writ are served upon every Irish peer through -the clerk of the crown at Dublin naming a date for an election. Each of -the one hundred and seventy-five Irish peers has a vote, but they never -assemble. They merely write to the clerk of the crown at Dublin, naming -their choice, and forward a duplicate of the letter to the clerk of the -House of Lords at London. - -Scotland has only sixteen representative peers, who are elected by an -assemblage at Holyrood Palace at Edinburgh when notified of a vacancy. -There is considerable formality in the proceedings, and every peer is -required to present himself to answer the roll call before he is allowed -to vote. There is a good deal of preliminary canvassing in both Scotland -and Ireland, and that was particularly the case of Lord Curzon of -Kedleston, who was elected to the House of Lords as an Irish peer after -his return from India. The candidates for the vacancy usually visit -their fellow peers personally and solicit their support. Social -influences go a great way. Lord Curzon was handicapped in many respects, -but was elected by a large majority because of the high esteem in which -he is held. - -When the ballots are all in the clerk of the crown at Dublin makes up a -tabulated statement which he sends with his report to the clerk of the -House of Lords. The latter checks it off from his own records and -announces the result to the lord high chancellor and to each of the -Irish peers in person. - -The representative peers at present are the Earls of Annesley, Bandon, -Belmore, Darnley, Drogheda, Kilmory, Lucan, Mayo, Rosse, and Westmeath, -Viscounts Bangor and Templeton, and Barons Bellew, Castlemaine, -Clonbrock, Crofton, Curzon, Dunalley, Dunboine, Headley, Inchiquin, -Kilmaine, Langford, Massey, Musckerry, Oranmore, Rathdonnell, and -Ventry. - -The premier of the Irish peerage is Maurice Fitzgerald, who is the Duke -of Leinster and also is Marquis of Kildare, and represents the most -distinguished and celebrated family in Ireland. His dukedom dates back -to 1766. The second in rank is the Duke of Abercorn, James Hamilton, who -is also Marquis of Hamilton. The third is James Edward William Theobold, -twenty-seventh Marquis of Ormonde, and the fourth is Rudolph Robert -Basil Aloysius Augustine Fielding, Earl of Desmond, who is also Earl of -Denbigh. - -The oldest titles in the Irish peerage are the following: - - Baron Kinsale, created 1223. - Lord Dunsany, created 1439. - Lord Timlestown, created 1461. - Viscount Gormanston, created 1478. - Baron Louth, created 1541. - Lord Dumboine, created 1541. - Baron Inchiquin, created 1543. - Viscount Montgarrett, created 1550. - The Earl of Fingal, created 1620. - Viscount Grandison, created 1620. - Earl of Cork, created 1620. - Baron Digby, created 1620. - Earl of Westmeath, created 1621. - Earl of Desmond, created 1622. - Lord Dillon, created 1622. - Viscount Valentia, created 1622. - Earl of Meath, created 1627. - Baron Sherard, created 1627. - Viscount Lumley, created 1628. - Viscount Taffe, created 1628. - -All the remaining peerages of Ireland were created later than the year -1700. - -The people as a rule are respectful towards the nobility, and treat them -with a consideration which is not always deserved. The bitterness of -politics is more intense in Ireland than in any other country, and, as -Sydney Brooks in his recent book on "Ireland in the Twentieth Century" -says, "Class distinctions are not mitigated by political agreement. -Differences of creed are not assuaged by harmony of economic interests. -The cleavages of racial temperament are not, as in other countries, -bridged over by a sense of national unity. On the contrary, all the -bitterness of caste and creed, of political and material antipathies and -contrast, instead of losing half their viciousness in a multiplicity of -cross-currents, are gathered and rigidly compressed in Ireland into two -incongruous channels. Throughout the country you can infer a man's -religion from his social position; his social position from his -religion, and his views on all Irish questions from both; and nine times -out of ten you infer rightly." - -That is strictly true. Nowhere in the world is a man's politics so -influenced by his religion and his social position as in Ireland. -Although you will find home rulers in all classes of the English -population, you will never find them outside one class in Ireland. If -you are told what business he is engaged in or what church he belongs to -in Ireland, it is not necessary for you to ask his politics. - -While the ancient nobility of Ireland is gradually becoming extinct and -their estates are being divided up among the farmers who till them, a -new aristocracy is developing. The sons of what is called the middle -class are invading the sacred haunts of the ancient aristocracy and are -taking the places of the dukes and earls as the latter retire. Every -peer that has been created in Ireland of late years has been a son of a -manufacturer, a tradesman, or a country gentleman of the middle class, -and at the present rate the descendants of earls and marquises will be -compelled to stand back and give the sons of brewers, distillers, and -other manufacturers their places at the front of the stage. - -A century or even half a century ago no Irish trader or contractor, -lawyer or doctor, unless he could produce the proper sort of pedigree, -could enter the social world or the best clubs of Dublin and other -Irish cities or participate in the sports of the gentry and aristocracy. -But to-day their grandsons have the entrée to that gilded gate which -hangs upon broken hinges and will soon be entirely removed. This is the -result of the decadence of one class and the advance of another. A -brewer or a distiller who can obtain a seat in the House of Lords must -necessarily be eligible to the clubs where his colleagues meet. Nearly -all of the twenty-three peers created by the present government in -England have sprung from families of humble origin and are sons of men -who made their money in manufacturing and trade. And there is room for -more of them in the peerage. You hear irreverent people talking about -"breeding up the peerage of Great Britain," just as they talk about -improving their cattle, horses, and swine, and in the clubs of London -this subject is revived every time the son of a decaying family of the -nobility marries the daughter of a wealthy tradesman, or the daughter of -an earl weds the son of a wealthy commoner. - -In Ireland the shopkeeper now educates his son for a profession. The -sons of contractors become architects and civil engineers. The sons of -lawyers and doctors enter the army and navy and diplomatic service. -Among the large families of the middle class you will find one son a -lawyer, another a doctor, and the other two in the army and navy. In -order to keep pace with them and be able to appear properly in the -society which their brothers enter, and in order that they may be -considered suitable wives for the sons of similar families who are on -the upward grade, the daughters of the middle classes of Ireland are -sent to the best schools and colleges and spend their winters in Paris. - -For these reasons very little is said about pedigree in Ireland these -days. The army that is advancing does not look back. The decaying -nobility dare not question nor criticise lest they may be trampled upon. -The only people who talk about their ancestors are the peasants, who -trace their descent from the Irish kings. - -Mrs. O'Leary met Mrs. O'Donahue one day and in the course of -conversation asked if she had ever looked up her pedigree. - -"Phwat's that?" inquired Mrs. O'Donahue. - -"The people you sprang from," was the reply. - -"I'd have you know that the O'Donahues never sprang from anybody," was -the indignant retort. "They sprang at 'em." - -Every influential leader of the liberal party is a home ruler. The Earl -of Aberdeen, the present lieutenant governor, Earl Dudley, his -predecessor, who is now governor-general of Australia, James Bryce, -recently chief secretary for Ireland and now British ambassador at -Washington, and many other influential men in high places, are earnest -in supporting the Irish claims for self-government, and the national -party, which, after the death of Charles S. Parnell, became demoralized -and split into factions under the leadership of John Redmond, John -Dillon, and others, has been a unit since 1900 and is working -harmoniously. The liberal leaders have promised to make home rule the -leading issue at the next parliamentary election, which will probably -occur in two years or so. In the meantime the Irish party in parliament -will continue to pursue the policy that has already been so successful -in securing concessions for the relief of the people and the promotion -of the welfare and prosperity of Ireland. - -The city government of Dublin is very much like that of London. The lord -mayor is second in official rank to the lord lieutenant, and within the -precincts of the city takes precedence of everybody except that official -(who is the personal representative of the king), the royal family, and -foreign ambassadors. He precedes the Archbishop of Canterbury, who is -the primate of England, the two archbishops of Armagh, the primates of -all Ireland, the Archbishop of Dublin, the chief secretary for Ireland, -and even the prime minister of England, while the lady mayoress has the -right to walk before every duchess, marchioness, and woman of title in -the kingdom except the royal family. The salary of the lord mayor is -$15,000 a year, and he has a beautiful old house to live in--one of the -most attractive in Dublin. It is situated on Dawson Street near -Stephen's Green and is surrounded by a picturesque garden. Here in olden -times the lord mayor used to entertain like a prince. It was a matter of -pride that the Mansion House should never be outdone by the castle in -the magnificence of its hospitality. But of late years the civic -entertainments, as they were called, have been abandoned and the lady -mayoress has not attempted to shine in society. - -The Right Honorable Gerald O'Reilly was Lord Mayor of Dublin when I was -there in 1908, and he managed to look after his private business as -grocer and liquor dealer at Towns End in connection with his official -duties. He was elected to office by the nationalists and the labor -element, who control the politics not only of Dublin but of all Ireland, -and have elected his predecessors for many years. And they have been men -of the people without exception. No aristocrat, no landlord, no member -of the nobility could ever hope to become Lord Mayor of Dublin. - -Mr. O'Reilly was born, reared, and educated in County Carlow, where his -father was a groceryman and liquor dealer like himself. When he became -of age he came up to Dublin, went into business on his own account and -prospered. He is not a rich man, but well to do, with a good patronage, -a good reputation, and a large influence in politics. For twenty years -he has served as a member of the common council and the board of -aldermen, where he has proved his usefulness and his right to promotion. -Mr. O'Reilly's predecessor was an actual workingman, G.P. Nanetti, a son -of an Italian artist who came to Ireland fifty years ago to engage in -his profession as a decorator. Mr. Nanetti was born in Dublin, educated -in the national schools, learned his trade as printer in the office of -that ancient and well-known paper, the _Freeman's Journal_, and was -advanced from grade to grade until he became the foreman of the -composing-room. In the meantime he went into politics, became a leader -among the workingmen, was elected to the common council and then to the -board of aldermen, and, after serving two terms as lord mayor, was -elected to parliament as the representative of the business district of -Dublin, which surrounds the Bank of Ireland and Trinity College. Before -him Timothy Harrington was lord mayor for three terms, a longer period -than any of his predecessors since the creation of the title by King -Charles I. on the twenty-ninth day of July, 1641. He, too, was a great -success in the office and was sent to parliament for the district which -includes the docks. - -The Mansion House is well adapted for entertainment. The main room is a -large circular chamber, adorned with statuary, which was built -especially for the reception of George IV. when he visited Ireland. The -Oak Room is entirely sheathed, floor, ceiling, and walls, with a rich -reddish brown oak, delicately carved. Over the fireplace is a rack for -the reception of the mace and sword which are the symbols of office, and -formerly, when the lord mayor went about on official occasions, they -were carried before him, but Mr. O'Reilly and his recent predecessors -have abolished many of those interesting old ceremonies. - -There are some fine pictures in the Mansion House, portraits of Charles -II. by Sir Peter Lely, George IV. by Sir Thomas Lawrence, the Earl of -Northumberland by Sir Joshua Reynolds, and the Earl of Westmorland by -Romney. In the entrance hall are preserved the mace and sword carried by -the lord mayor who fought for James II. at the battle of the Boyne. When -he fled with the rest of James's forces he dropped the heavy insignia, -which fell into the hands of the Williamites and were retained by them -until a duplicate set had been furnished, many years after. - -Many famous men have been entertained at the Mansion House, including -General Grant, who visited Dublin during the holidays of 1878; Capt. -Edward E. Potter, commander of the United States man-of-war -_Constellation_, which brought a cargo of food to the starving people of -Ireland in 1880; the Hon. Patrick A. Collins, while he was Mayor of -Boston, who, by the way, is recorded as a senator from Massachusetts, a -distinction he never attained. The Hon. Richard Croker, formerly of New -York, received the freedom of the city of Dublin several years ago, and -has been a frequent guest at the Mansion House, although he moves about -very modestly and puts on no airs. - -The Lord Mayor of Dublin is elected annually on the 23d of December by -the aldermen and councilmen and must be one of their number. He has a -deputy who exercises authority during his illness or absence. There are -fifteen aldermen and forty-five members of the council, whose authority -and powers are very much the same as in our cities at home. - -The headquarters of the mayor are in the City Hall, which was formerly -the Royal Exchange, where merchants met daily to make bargains and sign -contracts. It was used as a prison during the rebellion of '98, and has -had other experiences. As you enter the building through the vestibule -you pass into a large circular room, with a dome sustained by many -columns, which was formerly the trading place, but is now the anteroom -to the mayor's office and is usually filled with politicians and place -hunters, which are quite as numerous in Ireland as they are anywhere -else. - -The name of the capital of Ireland is a compound of two Gaelic words, -Dubh-Linn, which signify "the black pool," and was bestowed upon it more -than two thousand years ago. There is a complete history of the city -since the year 150 A.D., when a warlike king called "Conn of a Hundred -Battles," who had long been the overlord of all Ireland, was defeated by -his rival, "Mogh of Munster," and compelled to consent to a division of -territory, the line being drawn from High Street, Dublin, across to the -Atlantic Ocean near Galway. Three centuries later St. Patrick stopped on -his way from Wicklow to his home at Armagh. The people complained to him -of the bad quality of the water they were obliged to drink and he -relieved them by causing a miraculous fountain to spring up near the -site of the present cathedral that bears his name. In 1152 Dublin became -the seat of an archbishopric by a decree of the pope and, shortly after -the landing of Henry II., became the seat of the English government. In -1210 King John visited Ireland again and conferred many privileges upon -the city. In 1394 King Richard came over with an army of thirty-four -thousand and lived in great splendor in Dublin. All of the Irish -chieftains submitted to his conciliatory policy. The great O'Neill, King -of Ulster; MacMurrough, King of Leinster; O'Brien of Munster, and -O'Connor of Connaught, the four kings of Ireland, were knighted and -promised allegiance, but no sooner had Richard returned to England than -the country was again in confusion. - -In 1409 the "pale" (or inclosure) of Ireland was established, with the -city of Dublin as its capital, a narrow strip of land thirty miles long -by twenty wide, which alone was under English control and whose -inhabitants alone in all Ireland could be relied upon to respect the -royal commands. Dublin has been besieged, invaded by pirates, has been -swept with plague and pestilence, and has been fought over by rival -princes, but has kept growing, and in Queen Elizabeth's time reached -such commercial importance that it was necessary to erect a custom-house -and a lighthouse to show the channel to those who went down to the sea -in ships. The people were famous for their wealth and fashion. An -official band of musicians played three times a week through the chief -streets, there was a city physician, a fire department, an attempt at -sanitation and waterworks were introduced, each citizen being allowed as -much water daily as would flow through a quill. - -In 1661 the people of Dublin spent $150,000, which was an enormous sum -in those days, to celebrate the restoration, with banquets, fireworks, a -pageant, and various other evidences of rejoicing. And the king, as an -acknowledgment, sent the mayor a gold chain and conferred upon him the -title of "The Right Honorable, the Lord Mayor of Dublin." Under the -administration of Ormonde, Dublin expanded on all sides, and has since -been growing, although from time to time there have been periods of -distress and disorder. - -[Illustration: THE FOUR COURTS, DUBLIN] - -Gradually, however, matters settled down into civilization and order. -Courts were established, and an imposing building called "The Four -Courts" was erected to accommodate the four divisions of the -judiciary,--chancery, king's bench, exchequer, and common pleas. In -early times each term of court was opened by a religious service, when -the choir of Christ Church would sing an anthem and the dean would offer -prayer. One of the boundaries of the Four Courts was a dark, narrow -passage, which a wit, struck with its gloom, nicknamed "Hell," and -carried out his idea by erecting at the entrance a fantastic figure -supposed to represent the evil one. A Dublin newspaper of that date -contains an advertisement reading as follows: - -"Lodgings to let in Hell, suitable for a lawyer." - -You will remember Burns's line: "As sure 's the deil 's in hell, or -Dublin city." - -Dublin now has 300,000 population, and, although it is not so -enterprising as Belfast, is one of the few cities in Ireland that shows -growth. The population is divided as follows: Roman Catholic, 237,645; -Church of Ireland, Episcopal, 41,663; Presbyterian, 4,074; Methodist, -2,342. - -The means of grace are greater than the hope of glory. Promises of -salvation are offered from fully eighty churches, as follows: - - Church of Ireland 20 - Church of Ireland (chapels) 20 - Roman Catholic 9 - Roman Catholic (chapels) 6 - Presbyterian 8 - Wesleyan 8 - Primitive Methodists 2 - Independent 3 - Friends' meeting-houses 2 - Unitarian 1 - Baptist 1 - -The "disestablishment" of the Church of Ireland, by which is meant the -separation of the Protestant Episcopal denomination from the government, -occurred in 1869 under the leadership of Mr. Gladstone as the price of -peace and the termination of the rebellion in Ireland. It was demanded -by the Roman Catholic bishops, who saw the injustice of compelling -people of all denominations, without discrimination, to pay taxes to -support an official church and the propaganda of a faith which they did -not profess. So that branch of the Established Church of England which -was found across St. George's Channel was forcibly divorced and given -alimony amounting to £8,080,000, or about $39,000,000 in American money. -This represented a commutation in advance of the stipends to which the -clergy of that church were entitled under the ecclesiastical laws for a -term of fourteen years, as well as a vast amount of real estate and -other property which belonged to the Established Church and was -transferred to the new organization represented by a commission -appointed for that purpose. At the same time the Presbyterian church of -Ireland received £750,000, the Roman Catholic College of St. Patrick at -Maynooth, £3,372,331, the board of intermediate education for school -purposes, £1,000,000, the pension fund for teachers in Ireland, -£1,127,150 and the Congested Districts Board, £1,500,000. Since that -time these funds have increased in value considerably, and the incomes -from them are devoted to the purposes named. They were paid in lieu of -the annual contributions from the Established Church which had been -enjoyed for many years and were capitalized on the basis of fourteen -years' income; that is, the government in order to satisfy everybody -advanced in lump sums what it would have given in annual installments -for the next fourteen years if the "disestablishment act" had not been -passed. - -The general synod which controls the affairs of the Episcopal Church of -Ireland is composed of the two archbishops, the bishops, the deans, and -canons of cathedrals, and archdeacons of diocese. The property of the -church has advanced in value until it is now estimated at more than -£12,000,000, or $60,000,000, and the income is now more than $2,000,000 -a year, which is very large in proportion to its numbers. - - Total population of Ireland (1901) 4,386,035 - Roman Catholic 3,308,661 - Church of Ireland 581,080 - Presbyterian 443,494 - Methodist 61,255 - -These are the figures furnished by the different church organizations, -but you will notice they exceed the total population by the latest -census and therefore are only approximately correct. - -At the time of the disestablishment in 1889 the adherents of the Church -of Ireland numbered 693,347, which is a decrease of 112,258 since that -time. This corresponds very accurately with the general decrease of the -population of the island. - -There are now 1,628 churches and chapels belonging to the Church of -Ireland, which is an average of one for every 350 people, and from my -short experience I should say that the members of the church were very -negligent in attending worship. - -The Roman Catholic church is the largest, the most prosperous, the most -energetic, and has greater vitality than any other denomination, and is -involved in all the politics and secular affairs as well as the -ecclesiastical administration of the country, which is perfectly -natural, because 74 per cent of the entire population belong to that -denomination, and the number as reported--3,308,661--are divided among -1,084 parishes with 2,350 houses of worship, churches, and chapels. - -The constant stream of emigration which flows from Ireland to the United -States, Canada, Australia, and other more progressive and prosperous -countries comes chiefly from the Roman Catholic church, which lost -238,646 members, or 6.7 per cent of its numbers, between the last two -official censuses of the country. The Church of Ireland lost 3.2 per -cent from a total of 13 per cent, the Presbyterians 0.4, while the -Methodists increased 11.7 per cent, the Jews increased 119 per cent, and -other religious persuasions 9.1 per cent. - -But it is strange to say that the numbers of priests and monks and nuns -are increasing every year, while the number of parishioners is falling -off. In 1851, when the island had twice its present population, there -were 2,291 priests in Ireland; in 1901 there were 3,157, of whom 4 were -archbishops, 27 bishops, 392 monks, and the remainder parish priests, -including chaplains and professors in educational institutions. The -total of priests increased 307 during the last ten years. There are many -monasteries, nunneries, and other monastic and educational houses in -Ireland--93 for men and 242 for women. - -The Presbyterians are third in numerical strength, wealth, and -influence, and are found mostly in the northern part of the country. The -membership represents the manufacturing, mercantile, and commercial -classes, while the Church of Ireland represents the landowners, the -government officials, the aristocracy, nobility, and the gentry. The -Presbyterians have a higher average of wealth than any other -denomination. Their contributions to benevolent purposes in 1907 were -$1,040,000, which is very large for a population of 443,494 and 106,000 -communicants. There were 96,000 children on the roll of the Presbyterian -Sunday schools in 567 churches, which are distributed among 36 -presbyteries and 5 synods. The minutes of the recent general assembly -show 650 clergymen of that faith. - -The Methodists are active and energetic, and ever since John Wesley -appeared in Ireland in August, 1747, they have been strong in the faith. -They are mostly in the cities among the middle classes, and the latest -returns show 250 churches, 248 ministers and evangelists, 358 Sunday -schools, and 26,000 scholars, for a total population of 61,255. - -There are several other denominational organizations. Friends' -meeting-houses are found in several of the cities of Ireland, and the -members of that faith have been here for centuries. Macroom Castle, in -which William Penn was born, is still standing, and the Castle of -Blackrock, the place where he embarked for America, is now a popular -Sunday resort for the working people of that city. - - - - - IV - - DUBLIN CASTLE - - -Dublin Castle does not correspond with the conventional idea of what a -castle should be. It looks more like the dormitory of an ancient -university or a hospital or military barracks, although there are two -ancient towers in which many men have been imprisoned and in which -several patriots have died, and the south side of the pile, which -overlooks a beautiful lawn in the very center of Dublin, has quite the -appearance of a fortress. It has been the scene of much bloody history, -much treachery and cruelty, and many deeds of valor have been done in -the two courtyards. One of the viceroys of the sixteenth century, in a -letter to the King of England describing its partial destruction by -fire, wrote that he had "lost nothing but a few barrels of powder and -the worst castle in the worst situation in Christendom". - -A certain portion of the building is reserved for the official residence -of the lord lieutenant, and there are long suites of quaint old rooms -with antique furniture, usually disguised with its summer wrapping of -pink-flowered chintz, in which kings and queens and dukes and earls have -been entertained for centuries. In olden times it was the habit of the -lord lieutenant to permit his guests to go to the wine cellar with -glasses in their hands and drink from whatever hogshead they pleased, -and it is recorded that some gentlemen who were imbibing longer than -usual sent the cellarer to the Duke of Ormonde, who then occupied the -office, to provide them with chairs. With that true wit that -distinguishes the Irish race, high and low, the duke replied that he did -not encourage his guests to drink any longer than they could stand. This -custom was abandoned by the Earl of Halifax, owing to the carelessness -of certain bewildered gentlemen who left the wine running out of the -spigot and lost him many gallons of precious Madeira. - -The present lord lieutenant, Lord Aberdeen, spends as little time in the -castle as possible, because the viceregal lodge, his country residence, -which is only half an hour's drive distant in Phoenix Park, is so much -more comfortable and homelike, but all state ceremonies must take place -at the castle, and their excellencies and the household usually bring in -their court costumes early in February, for the season commences on the -second Tuesday with a levee, a drawing-room on Wednesday, a reception on -Thursday, and on Friday a banquet. During the ensuing week a state ball -is given, and twice a week thereafter entertainments until the 17th of -March, when the season is finished with St. Patrick's ball. The -presentation of guests may be arranged for at the levees or the -drawing-room, and everybody who has been presented can go to the ball. -The inauguration of a new viceroy takes place in the throne-room, where -also a farewell reception is held when he retires. - -The castle dates back to the days when it was necessary to have some -stronghold, as the king said, "to curb the city as well as to defend -it," and to provide a safe place for the custody of the royal treasure. -It was located in the center of the present city of Dublin, but at the -time was outside the original walls of the town, upon what is called -Cork Hill, because Richard Boyle, the Earl of Cork, had his castle upon -the slight elevation it now occupies. Meiller Fitzhenry, an illegitimate -son of Henry II., designed and began the building. It was finished in -1213, and from that period has been the center of Irish history. Very -little of the original structure remains--only a portion of the walls. -The towers have been cut down and modernized. One of them is now used -for a supper-room for social occasions, and a kitchen is on the lower -floor. The other, which was originally a prison, and is the most -complete surviving fragment of the ancient fortress, is a repository for -historical documents and the records of the government for the last -four or five centuries. There are three circular rooms, one above the -other; the walls are nineteen feet thick in places, and four or five -long, narrow cells are built into them like recesses and lighted only by -a narrow strip at the far end. One of these cells has a secret chamber -hidden in the wall, and accessible only by a revolving door, which is -difficult to distinguish from the rest of the stone. - -[Illustration: THE CASTLE, DUBLIN; OFFICIAL RESIDENCE OF THE LORD -LIEUTENANT AND HEADQUARTERS OF THE GOVERNMENT] - -The tower has not been used as a prison since 1798 and 1803, the -rebellions of Emmet and Lord Edward Fitzgerald, and the documents -relating to their conspiracy are preserved there in the very cells where -the men who were convicted by them lay awaiting trial and execution. The -late Mr. Lecky, the historian, searched them thoroughly, and gave a -surprising account of the character of the private papers that were -seized with the effects of the patriots in those days. Love letters, -poems, reflections on various subjects, rules of conduct, maxims of the -sages, drafts of speeches, and proclamations in soaring language, and -many attempts at literary work are mixed up with the reports of spies, -informers, detectives, and officials,--some of them from comrades whose -treachery was never suspected and which Mr. Lecky was not permitted to -publish even at this late day. Some people think these malicious and -incriminating documents should be destroyed lest they may sometime come -to light and ruin the reputation of men who are highly esteemed by their -fellow countrymen. But no one seems willing to give the instructions. - -In 1583 a "trial by combat" took place in the courtyard of the castle -between Connor MacCormack O'Connor and Teague Kilpatrick O'Connor to -settle the responsibility for the murder of a clansman. The weapons were -sword and shield. The lord justices and the councillors, the -governor-general, the sheriffs, and other officials were present to -witness the trial. As was the custom and usage in trials by combat, each -man was made to take an oath that he believed his quarrel just, and was -ready to maintain it to the death. After a fierce struggle Teague cut -off the head of his cousin and presented it on the point of his sword to -the lord justices. For many generations the Irish parliament used to -assemble at the castle. The first was called in 1328, another in 1585, -another in 1639, and the accounts of the expenses of the lord lieutenant -show that during the two weeks that parliament was in session the -viceregal household consumed ten bullocks, forty sheep, sixteen -hogsheads of beer, and various other refreshments to a similar extent. - -Oliver Cromwell, when in Dublin, resided at the castle, and in 1654 his -youngest son was born there. While Henry Cromwell was viceroy he was -driven from the castle and went to live at the viceregal lodge. In 1689, -after the battle of the Boyne, in which William of Orange defeated James -Stuart, the latter took possession of the castle, but slept there only -one night. - -The court of Dublin has been insignificant but lively, and has reflected -the characteristics of the Irish nobility, who were as fond of a frolic -as they were of a fight, and never allowed their sense of decorum or the -laws of etiquette to interfere with their pleasure. A hundred years ago -ladies, upon being presented for the first time, were solemnly kissed by -the viceroy, which was more or less agreeable to him, according to the -age and attractions of his guests. One of them who was noted for his wit -remarked that he got his kisses as a spendthrift borrows from a usurer, -"part in old wine, part in dubious paintings, and part in bright gold -and silver." With all its wit and brilliancy the court has at times been -noted for a low state of morality, and at one period that portion of the -castle which contains the state apartments was nicknamed "hell's -half-acre" by a satirist. - -A figure of Justice which adorns the pediment of the main gate has been -the object of much wit and satire for two centuries. Dean Swift once -declared that she sat with her face to the viceroy and her back to the -people. There are a few good portraits and other pictures in the -residence portion of the building, including some pretty medallions in -the wall of the throne-room, which are credited to Angelica Kauffman, -but nobody knows when or how she happened to paint them. - -The mantel of one of the rooms is of black Spanish oak taken from the -cabin of the flagship of the Spanish Armada which was wrecked on the -Irish coast after the great sea battle of 1588. - -The finest of all the rooms is St. Patrick's Hall, which was designed by -the great Lord Chesterfield when he was lord lieutenant of Ireland, and -has always been much admired by architects because of its proportions -and its lofty painted ceilings representing events in Irish history. The -banners of the twenty-four knights of St. Patrick are suspended from -either side, and the crimson draperies and upholstering of Irish poplin -give the apartment an attractive color. Duplicates of these banners hang -in the choir of St. Patrick's Cathedral, where the knights used to meet -before 1869, but they have always had their headquarters in the castle, -and the Ulster king of arms, the executive officer of the order, is the -master of ceremonies at the castle, senior officer in the household of -the lord lieutenant, the highest authority on rank and precedent in -Ireland, and his seal is necessary to give legal value to patents of -Irish peerages. He decides all questions of etiquette, nominates the -persons who are presented at the viceregal drawing-room, arranges for -all ceremonies, and in processions of state he rides or walks -immediately in front of the lord lieutenant, carrying the sword of state -as the emblem of the authority of the king. - -The office has been in existence since the Middle Ages. Its incumbent -was formerly the custodian of the arms, the chief of the heralds, and -the keeper of the royal jewels. He has an office in what is known as -Bedford Tower, immediately facing the principal entrance to the -viceroy's residence, with a large suite of rooms for his own use, and -two or three clerks to look after his business. Otherwise the office -carries no compensation except £20 a year and such few fees as are paid -for searching the records of the Irish peerage and furnishing -certificates of pedigree and title similar to those that are sought at -the College of Heralds in London. - -The office was held for many years by Sir Bernard Burke, the most -eminent of modern genealogists, the originator and author of "Burke's -Peerage," which is authority on all questions affecting the nobility. -His successor was Sir Arthur Vicar, son of the late Colonel Vicar, who -commanded the Sixty-first Irish Fusiliers, and is a cousin of half the -nobility of Ireland. Sir Arthur is a bachelor, a member of the principal -clubs of London and Dublin, president of the Kildare Archæological -Society and of the "Ex-Libris Society," whose members follow the fad of -collecting book plates. He is the highest authority on questions -affecting the Irish nobility since the death of Sir Bernard Burke, and -is the editor of "Lodge's Peerage," a volume which relates exclusively -to them. Sir Arthur has been a great favorite with everybody. He is an -amiable, gentle, witty man, with winning manner, a charming -conversationalist, has a keen sense of humor, and has been the confidant -of half the peers of Ireland in their sorrows and their difficulties. - -In October, 1907, when preparations were being made to invest Lord -Castledown as a knight of St. Patrick, it was discovered that the -regalia of that order was missing, and no trace has ever been found of -it, nor have the detectives obtained a single clew to the mystery. The -jewels have an intrinsic value of quarter of a million dollars, but the -historical and sentimental value of the articles stolen cannot be -estimated. They were kept in a safe in the office of Sir Arthur Vicar as -master at arms at the right of the entrance to his private quarters, and -the room was usually occupied in the daytime by two clerks and carefully -locked at night. This valuable property had been kept in that place for -more than two hundred years, and nobody ever dreamed that it might be -stolen. The discovery, which was kept secret for several months at the -request of the police, caused a postponement of the ceremony, and the -chief secretary for Ireland called for the resignation of Sir Arthur as -master at arms on the ground that he failed to take proper precautions -for the safety of the valuables in question. He was not accused or even -suspected of having participated in the robbery, or having any -knowledge of it, but there cannot be the slightest doubt that the theft -was committed by some person familiar with affairs in the castle, and -hence all the employees, everybody, from Lord Aberdeen down, has shared -in the humiliation. Sir Arthur Vicar refused to resign, demanded a court -of inquiry, and selected Timothy Healy, a member of parliament of the -nationalist party from Dublin, as his counsel, and has ever since been -appealing for vindication. - - - - - V. - - THE REDEMPTION OF IRELAND - - -While the circumstances of the agricultural class in Ireland are by no -means ideal, a great deal has been done to improve them. At the present -rate of progress, however, it will take from twenty to twenty-five -years, if not much longer, to accomplish the results intended by the -Wyndham Land Act of 1903, which was expected to bring about the Irish -millennium. That act provides that an owner of a large estate may sell -to his tenants the holdings they occupy, and his untenanted land to any -one who desires to buy it, in such tracts and at such prices as may be -agreed upon, corresponding to the income now derived from that -particular property. No landlord can sell a few acres here and there of -good land under this act, although, of course, he is at liberty to -dispose of any part of his estate at any time at any price that he may -consider proper. But the terms and privileges of the Wyndham Act can -only be enjoyed by a community of tenants in the purchase of the whole -or a considerable portion of an estate. A board of commissioners which -sits in the old-fashioned mansion in which the Duke of Wellington was -born, on Merrion Street, Dublin, is authorized to use its discretion in -the application of the law and in granting its privileges to those for -whose benefit it is intended. Nothing can be done without their -approval. The landlord and the tenants may arrange their own bargains to -their own satisfaction, but they must be submitted to the board before -they are carried out. - -When such agreements are reached and approved by the commission, ---including the area sold, the price, and other terms,--the government -is expected to furnish the purchase money from the public treasury. The -landlord is entitled to receive the cash in full, and the tenant, who -pays nothing, gives a mortgage, as we would call it, upon the property -to the government for sixty-eight years or less, and agrees to pay an -annual installment of 3-1/4; per cent of the purchase price, of which -2-3/4; per cent is interest and 1/2; per cent goes into a sinking fund -to cover the purchase money at the end of sixty-eight years. A purchaser -may pay off the mortgage at any time he pleases, and receive a clear -title to the land; or he may sell it whenever he chooses, subject to the -mortgage, which follows the land and not the person. If he is unable to -pay his annuities, the government can turn him out and dispose of the -land, subject to the same terms and conditions, to another person. It -can make no allowance for crop failures or cattle diseases. It cannot -extend or modify its credits. - -Nearly all of the landlords are willing to sell their estates; many are -glad to get rid of them, because the average tenantry in Ireland are a -very determined class, and are always making trouble. There have been -almost continuous disturbances over land questions of one form or -another in Ireland since the beginning of time. The rents are low -compared with the American standard, but have been difficult to collect, -and when there is a failure of crops they cannot be collected at all. -The landlords complain that all the laws that have been enacted of late -years are entirely in the interest of the tenants; that the landlord has -no show at all. And perhaps that is true, because public sympathy is -invariably with the tenants, and they cast many votes, while the -landlord has only one, even if he tries to vote at all. - -Since 1881 the land courts have adjusted the rents of 360,135 farmer -tenants, involving 10,731,804 acres of land. The total rents paid for -these lands annually before adjustment was £7,206,079. They were reduced -by judicial order to a total of £5,715,158, a difference of about -$7,500,000 a year in American money, in favor of the tenants. - -Therefore it is perfectly natural that landowners--and especially those -who have had a good deal of trouble with their tenants--are anxious to -dispose of their estates for cash, which they can invest to much better -advantage. The Duke of Leinster, for example, who is a minor, has -realized more than £800,000 in cash, which his trustees have invested in -brewery stocks, railway bonds, and other securities which pay regular -dividends and give him no anxiety. - -Mr. Bailey, one of the commissioners, told me that the good estates have -been disposed of without difficulty. The disposition of the poor land -has been more difficult, because the tenants are not as eager to get it, -the owner is not always satisfied with the price, and the commission is -not willing to make advances upon small bits of land among the bogs and -rocks and other tracts of unfertile soil that would not be considered -good security by anybody. The commissioners have treated these -transactions very much as they would have done if they were mortgage -bankers. They have refused to make advances on land that a banker would -not have considered good security. They have not been willing to make -advances on farms that cannot be made to pay. There have been -complications in certain cases that have perplexed them, but, as a rule, -the law has been working out in a most satisfactory and gratifying -manner. The chief object of the commission and the purpose of the law -has been to break up the great estates of Ireland so far as possible in -farms of not more than one hundred acres, and sell them to the -occupants, so as to create a nation of peasant proprietors, and that, he -says, is being accomplished more rapidly than any one had reason to -expect. Of course Mr. Bailey does not pretend that everybody is -satisfied. That would be impossible. The millennium has not yet come, -and the Wyndham Act has not brought it, although it has undoubtedly done -more than any previous legislation to promote peace in this distracted -country, and offers promises of future prosperity and contentment. - -Naturally some of the landowners have not been willing to sell their -property, and their tenants have been trying to force them to do so. -That accounts for the "cattle driving" and similar disturbances that you -read about in the newspaper cablegrams from Ireland. It is to be -regretted that the tendency of the newspapers is to publish sensational -occurrences and unfortunate events. If a man commits a great crime it is -advertised from one end of the world to the other. If he does a good -deed very little is said about it, and a false impression concerning -conditions in Ireland has been created by the widespread publication of -every little outrage or disturbance that occurs over there, while the -enormous usefulness and the satisfactory application of the Wyndham Land -Act has been almost entirely neglected by newspaper writers. - -There have, however, been a good many little disturbances occasioned by -the efforts of the tenants of certain estates, particularly those that -are now devoted to cattle-breeding, to force their landlords to divide -up the pastures and sell them. At present there is more money in the -cattle and sheep business than in any other kind of farming in Ireland, -and, as you drive out into the interior, you can see the loveliest -pastures in the world filled with fat, sleek animals feeding upon the -luscious grass. I do not believe there are richer or more beautiful -pastures in any land, and Irish beef and mutton command a premium -because of their flavor and tenderness. Hence prosperous cattle-breeders -cannot be blamed for refusing to sell their pastures and go out of -business, and there is no law to compel them to do so. But the rough and -reckless elements in the villages, and in many cases among their own -tenantry, often try to persecute them by cattle and sheep "driving," as -it is called, until they are willing to cry quits. The popular method is -to break down the gates or the hedges,--they do not have fences in -Ireland,--turn the cattle and sheep into the road, and run them as far -as possible away from their proper pastures, scattering them over the -country. This is done in the night, and the next morning the owner is -compelled to take such measures to recover as many of the strays as he -can. Various means are adopted to prevent such outrages. Armed guards -are employed who defend their cattle, sometimes at the cost of life and -bloodshed, which, of course, provokes bad feeling and greater trouble. -Hundreds of men have been arrested and punished by long terms of -imprisonment, but "cattle-driving" still goes on in various parts of -the country with some serious results. But it is comparatively -insignificant when compared with the great good that is being -accomplished by the breaking up of the big estates whose owners are -willing to dispose of them. - -Thus far the Wyndham Act has been carried out without much friction; the -chief difficulty having arisen from the eagerness of the landlords to -dispose of their estates, which is so much greater than anticipated, -that the funds provided have not been sufficient, and the landlords who -have sold their property have been compelled to wait for their pay. In -November, 1908, Mr. Augustine Birrell, chief secretary for Ireland in -the British cabinet, introduced into the House of Commons a bill for the -appropriation of more than $760,000,000, to be raised by an issue of -bonds to pay for the estates that have already been sold and for those -that may be sold in the future. That amount of money he asserted would -be necessary to carry out the plans of the government under the Land Act -of 1903. - -This proposition of Mr. Birrell is without doubt the most stupendous -munificence ever offered by any government to its subjects. The money -thus appropriated does not pay for any service performed. It is a direct -appropriation from the public treasury to the people of Ireland for the -simple purpose of relieving their poverty and placing them in -circumstances which will permit them to enjoy life without the hardships -and sufferings and fruitless labor which they and their forefathers have -for generations endured. - -The advances of the British government to the Irish peasants, if this -bill becomes a law, will reach nearly $1,000,000,000, but it is to be -repaid by them in small installments. Mr. Birrell, in his explanation of -the purpose of the bill to the House of Commons, stated that up to the -31st of October £25,000,000 in round numbers (which amounts to about -$125,000,000 in our money) had already been expended by the estates -commissioners in purchasing farms from the large landholders in Ireland -for the benefit of the tenants who occupy them, and that £52,000,000 -(which is the equivalent of about $260,000,000) is due to other -landowners who have sold their estates under the Act of 1903. These -transactions have been completed with the exception of payment of the -price. - -The transactions concluded under the Land Act of 1903 up to Oct. 31, -1908, provide farms for about 126,000 Irish families, at a cost of -$385,000,000 to the British treasury, which is to be refunded by the -owners of the farms in sixty-eight years, with interest at 3-1/4; per -cent. Three-fourths of 1 per cent of this annual interest, to be paid by -the man who owns the farm, goes into a sinking fund to meet the -principal of bonds which have been issued to provide the purchase money. -The remaining 2-1/2; per cent is paid by the farmer in lieu of rent, and -is used to meet the annual interest upon the bonds. Thus the farmer gets -his land in perpetuity by the payment of sixty-eight annual installments -of an amount equal to 3-1/4; per cent of its present value. The average -cost of the 126,000 farms thus far purchased is $1,790. - -The British government advances the money and becomes responsible for -the payment of the interest and principal. The annual interest is only a -trifle. In some cases it is only a shilling a week, and it runs up to as -high as a pound or two a week in special cases, the average being -estimated at $59 a year for the 126,000 farms, or $5 a month for the -purchase of a farm, and whatever improvements may happen to be upon the -land. If these improvements are not adequate, if the house is not -comfortable, and if barns, stables, fences, and other permanent -improvements are needed, the government advances the money to provide -for them upon the same terms,--sixty-eight annual payments of 3-1/4; per -cent of the cost. - -Mr. Birrell in his explanation estimated on Oct. 31, 1908, that the -additional sum of $760,000,000 will be necessary to complete the work, -to provide every family in the rural districts of Ireland with a farm of -their own, and with the intention of doing that he asks an appropriation -of that amount, which will bring the cost of the Irish land policy of -the British government up to nearly $900,000,000. - -This does not include the expenditures of the Congested Districts Board, -which have been $440,000 annually for several years, and in the future -are to be $1,250,000 a year. - -Nor does it include several millions of dollars which have been expended -under previous land acts, to purchase farms for the tenant occupiers. - -Nor does it include the $25,000,000 appropriated several years ago upon -the motion of James Bryce, now British ambassador at Washington, to -build cottages for the agricultural laborers,--the farm hands of -Ireland. - -Mr. Wyndham, the author of the Land Act of 1903, stated in the House of -Commons that 159,000 farmers had applied for the assistance of the -government to purchase their holdings, and that 176,000 more would -probably apply, out of a total of 490,000 farmers in Ireland. His -estimates are not so high as those of Mr. Birrell; he believed that -$600,000,000, or $800,000,000 at the outside, would be sufficient, -instead of $900,000,000, as estimated by Mr. Birrell. He is convinced -that 20 per cent of the 490,000 farmers in Ireland would not apply for -farms, and that the average price of the farms purchased would not -exceed $1,500. - -Of the farms already purchased, the average price in Leinster province -was £528 ($2,640); in Munster, £452 ($2,260); in Ulster, £242 ($1,210); -and in Connaught, £211 ($1,055). - -Connaught is the poorest of the poor provinces, and in 1908, out of a -total of 29,000 farmers who applied, only 2,000 came from Connaught. -Taking the most liberal estimate that he could imagine, Mr. Wyndham -stated that $800,000,000 would be the maximum required. - -The Wyndham Land Act is not the first experiment of the kind. It is not -the first attempt of the government to break up the big estates of -Ireland into small farms and homes for the people who are now working -them under the present system. W.F. Bailey, one of the commissioners who -are carrying out the provisions of that act, gave me an interesting -sketch of the history of the movement from the date of the passage of -what is known as "the Irish Church Act" in 1869, which was the original -endeavor to create a peasant-proprietor system by the aid of state -loans. - -"Under the Irish Church Act," said Mr. Bailey, "commissioners were -appointed to sell to the tenants of lands belonging to the church their -holdings at prices fixed by the commissioners themselves. If the tenant -refused to buy on the terms offered, the commissioners were authorized -to sell to the public for at least one-fourth and as much more as they -could get in cash, and the balance secured by a mortgage to be paid off -in thirty-two years in half-yearly installments. They sold farms to -6,057 tenants, and the government loaned the purchasers a total of -£1,674,841 which was issued by the commissioners of public works. - -"In 1870, the following year, what is known as the Landlord and Tenant -Act was passed by Parliament, under which the commissioners were -authorized to advance two-thirds of the purchase money agreed upon -instead of one-fourth, to be repaid in thirty-five years with 5 per cent -interest, and all agricultural and pastural lands in Ireland were -included in its provisions. Under this act 877 tenants purchased their -holdings for a total of £859,000, of which the government advanced -£514,526. - -"This act was amended in 1881 to provide that three-quarters instead of -two-thirds of the purchase money might be advanced by the government on -the same terms, and 731 tenants took advantage of it. The advances -amounted to £240,801. - -"What was known as the Ashbourne Act was passed in 1885, appropriating -the sum of £5,000,000 to enable the commissioners to purchase estates -for the purpose of reselling them to the tenants and others, and they -were authorized to furnish the entire purchase money, to be repaid in -annual installments extending over a period of forty-nine years, with -interest at 5 per cent. In 1888 an additional sum of £5,000,000 was -advanced for the same purpose, and 25,368 tenants on 1,355 estates -purchased their holdings with £9,992,640 advanced by the government. - -"These funds having been exhausted, Mr. Balfour in 1891 introduced a new -system under which the landlord, instead of cash, was paid in guaranteed -stock exchangeable for consols equal in amount to the purchase money, -and running for thirty years with interest at 2-3/4; per cent. This stock -was guaranteed by the Irish probate duty, the customs, and excise taxes, -and certain local grants. The amount of stock that could be issued for -any county was limited, however, and when that limit was reached the -sales had to stop. The advances under this act were £39,145,348. - -"The Act of 1891 was amended in 1896 in various respects. The annual -installments were fixed at 4 per cent, 2-3/4; per cent being for interest -and 1-1/4; per cent to create a sinking fund for the repayment of the -capital. The number of purchases arranged under this act was 36,994, and -the total amount advanced was £10,809,190. - -"The following table will give the number of tenants who have purchased -their holdings from their landlords with the assistance of the -government under these various acts and under the Wyndham Act of 1903 -from 1869 to the 31st of May, 1908: - - No. Amt. - purchasers. advanced. - Irish Church Act of 1869 6,057 £1,674,841 - Act of 1870 877 514,536 - Act of 1881 731 240,801 - Act of 1885 26,367 9,992,536 - Act of 1891 46,806 13,633,190 - Act of 1903 46,576 17,657,279 - ------- ----------- - Total to date named 127,414 £43,713,183" - -The following table shows the number of tenant purchasers under the -three land purchase acts of 1885-88, 1891-96, and 1903; the amount due -from them annually, the number who were in arrears, and the amount of -money unpaid on July 1, 1908: - - Number Install- Number Amount - purchasers. ments. unpaid. unpaid. - Act of - 1885-88 25,382 £369,130 354 £2,900 - 1891-96 46,837 517,943 374 3,920 - 1903 44,773 561,858 305 3,312 - ------ ---------- ----- ------- - Total 116,992 £1,448,931 1,033 £10,132 - -This is an extraordinary statement. It shows that 116,992 Irish farmers -have had farms purchased for them by the government, which they are -under obligations to pay for by installments amounting annually to -$7,240,000. Only 1,033, or less than 1 per cent, of them are in arrears -in their payments, and the amount unpaid is only about $50,000. The -statement shows that only 120 are in arrears for more than one -installment. This is conclusive evidence that the peasant farmers of -Ireland are carrying out in good faith the generous arrangement that has -been made for them by the British Parliament. - -In addition to the actual tenants, the estates commissioners have -provided farms for 2,647 persons who are not tenants, but are the sons -of farmers or laborers upon the farms. These are called "landless" -persons, and they are the ones who are making the trouble for the -government in several of the counties by driving off the cattle and -otherwise annoying the landlords and lessees of ranches that are being -used for pasturage while they are without farms. To such persons 70,326 -acres, an average of 35 acres each, have been allotted and paid for by -the government. - -"The fortunes of the Irish peasantry will soon be in their own hands," -said Mr. Bailey. "Ireland is soon to be like Denmark, a peasant state; -and the wealth-producing capacity of the country will be in the hands of -small farmers who own their homes and will have the entire benefit of -the results of their labor. - -"It is often complained," continued Mr. Bailey, "that the farmers of -Ireland are not good cultivators, and perhaps that is true in a measure, -except down in Wexford and other parts of the east coast south of Dublin -and in the north of Ireland. But there are very good reasons for it. -The Irish farmers never had any instruction until lately. Before the -famine they merely raised enough to supply their own wants and, having -no interest in the land, did nothing to improve it. Since the famine, -however, and within the last few years there has been a very great -advance in agricultural conditions, and as the older generation dies off -and the younger generation comes on there will be better farming, -because they will know how to apply their labor. One reason for the lack -of good farming and the carelessness and neglect was that there was no -fixed tenure for the tenants, and as they naturally hated their -landlords, they were not willing to do anything to improve the value of -the property. Another reason is that they have been raising cattle so -long that they have forgotten how to cultivate the land. The area of -pasturage in Ireland has been gradually increasing and the acreage -plowed has been gradually decreasing, until now, of the 20,000,000 acres -of land of Irish territory only 2,357,530 are devoted to crops, and no -less than 14,712,849 are devoted to meadows and pastures. The area under -cultivation has been growing smaller every year. In 1875 it was -5,332,813 acres, in 1895 it was 4,931,000, in 1905 it was 2,999,082, -while in 1907 it was 2,357,530 acres. - -"Another reason for poor farming is that the best element, the most -active and enterprising of our people, have gone to America, which has -increased the ratio of those who are physically and intellectually -inferior. Then, again, it has become a matter of fashion to neglect the -soil. Our people prefer to live in the towns rather than on the farms. -The Irish are a social race, and, as has been demonstrated by the -emigrants to America, they prefer a crowded tenement house to plenty of -room on a farm." - -"That the farms of the tenant purchasers have largely improved in all -parts of Ireland, as regards cultivation and general conditions, is -unquestionable," said Mr. Bailey. "The exceptions to this rule are so -few and of such a nature as to emphasize rather than detract from the -good effect of the land reforms, as shown by the general condition of -the farms we have been able to visit. In the great majority of cases we -found that the purchasers have devoted their energies and their savings -to the improvement of the land and of the buildings. In many districts, -especially those in the provinces of Leinster and Munster, the tenants -have hitherto been more anxious to increase the productive power of the -soil than to add to their comforts or the appearances of their homes, or -to make permanent improvements. But we found improvements in fencing, -draining, in the cleaning of fields, in the re-making of farm roads, and -in other respects, as well as by increasing the fertility of the soil by -manuring and top-dressing. We found also that the actual productiveness -of the land in many cases had been increased since its purchase, by -improved management. - -"On some estates conditions have not improved, because of various -reasons. Some lazy people, unfortunately, have no desire to change. They -live a dull, commonplace life, without enterprise, energy, or ambition. -Some of them are affected by their environment, as in the case of small -farmers who are in the midst of a community of large cattle-growers. -Again, the cost of labor is so great that many cannot afford to hire -help to do what they cannot do themselves, and have postponed -improvements until a more favorable opportunity. - -"However, that the dwellings, outhouses, stables, and barns of tenant -purchasers have materially improved throughout Ireland is certain. The -testimony on this point from every part of the four provinces is uniform -and conclusive. A considerable number of new buildings have been erected -either by home labor or capital already in hand, and many farmers are -taking advantage of the loans offered by the board of works. This is -particularly true in the counties of Cork, Kerry, Limerick, Tipperary, -Waterford, and Wexford. On some estates there is a great deal of rivalry -among the new purchasers as to which shall have the best showing in the -way of buildings. In other cases, I regret to say, the houses and barns -continue in a very neglected state. - -"It is also gratifying to be able to say that in the large majority of -cases throughout Ireland the credit of the tenant purchasers has -improved very considerably since they bought their holdings. Such is the -universal testimony of local bank managers, shopkeepers, ministers of -religion, and other representative persons whom we have consulted. And -this improvement in credit is perhaps most marked in localities where -farmers were worse off in former times. The explanation is that the -farmers have now been started on new careers free from obligations, and -are able to devote all of their attention and energies to improving -their condition without being worried by financial and other troubles. - -"The 'Gombeen man,' the money-lender, the Shylock, who has been the -curse of Ireland, has actually disappeared from many districts, and in -others he is rapidly losing his business. The men who have bought their -farms under the Wyndham Act do not ask for credit. They pay in cash very -generally, and wherever they do borrow, they are able to get better -terms, because they have something substantial behind them and are not -likely to be thrown out into the street at any time as formerly. Those -who are borrowing money now want it for improvements, and not to pay off -old mortgages or meet previous obligations. - -"The first, and in many respects the most important, consequence of -owning farms is the contentment that it has given to the people. Their -minds are at ease. Their anxiety as to their future treatment from their -landlord or his agent has vanished, and the misfortunes which often -distressed them have disappeared. In their investigations the -commissioners and the inspectors employed by them have met very few -tenant purchasers who have any fault to find with the conditions under -which they are now living. We have met several men who had lost their -cattle by disease, and others whose crops had failed; but they seemed to -be cheerful, and were confident that with care and industry they would -soon be on their legs again. - -"In the poorer districts on the west coast of Ireland little improvement -has been made, and little more can be expected for a generation; yet -there has been progress, and the Congested Districts Board is doing a -great deal by its liberal policy. The people are very poor, but they do -not complain of their poverty. They freely admit that their standard of -living has improved of recent years, and more especially since they -became owners. 'Purchase has brought peace,' said a parish priest. -'People are more industrious, more temperate, more saving, and more -cheerful.' In many places which had formerly been troublesome, the -constabulary report that quietness and order and a supreme feeling of -contentment and satisfaction with present conditions prevailed. At -Fermanagh the parish priest said that the consumption of liquor had -fallen one-half since the farmers had purchased their own farms, and -that the money which had been spent for drink was now being saved for -improvements on the farms, and for better clothes, for implements, and -for other purposes, which show an increased pride in appearances and a -sense of responsibility. - -"There is no question but that the standard of living in every respect -has been raised since the people of Ireland have been allowed to own the -farms they till," continued Mr. Bailey. "This appears in their personal -appearance as well as in the food provided for their tables. It is due -to the greater self-respect that has been inspired by a sense of -proprietorship. The most important and fundamental benefit that the -Irish people are enjoying from the ownership of their farms is the -elevation of their own opinion of themselves--the self-respect and -ambition that a proprietor always feels. They wear better clothes, they -take better care of their persons, and they require better food. On many -farms in the west of Ireland, where the people lived almost exclusively -on porridge and potatoes, they now use bread, eggs, American bacon, and -tea. American bacon is used in preference to Irish bacon because it -contains more fat and makes a better dish for a large family when boiled -with cabbage. The improvement in clothing occurs simultaneously with the -improvement in food and farming tools, and both follow immediately after -the title to the land is secured. People often explain that formerly -they 'had to scrape together every penny to pay the rent, but now we can -live decently.' - -"But the sanitary arrangements throughout western Ireland still need a -great deal of attention. The manure heap is still in unpleasant -proximity to the dwelling place, and the practice of keeping cattle, -pigs, and chickens under the same roof and often in the same room with -the family has not disappeared as rapidly as one might hope. We -inspected a farm in Mayo where the family and the cow lived in the same -room, but it was kept remarkably clean and tidy. Every part of the -earthen floor outside the corner that was alloted to the cow was -carefully swept, and the 'dresser,' the chief article of furniture in an -Irish cabin, showed taste and neatness, and was well stocked with very -good china in which the owner seemed to take great pride. When we -remarked on the presence of the cow in the cabin he replied, 'Sure, I -could not leave the poor animal out in the cold.' The tenant purchaser -of a farm in Galway said she had to keep the cow in the house because -she could not afford to erect a barn, and if the animal died she would -be ruined. But the practice is being slowly abandoned, and since the -land act was enforced many people who formerly sheltered their cattle, -pigs, and poultry in the same dwelling-place as themselves in their long -and severe winters have been building separate houses for them. We were -told that this was the exception before purchase, and that it is now the -rule. The tendency is undeniably toward neatness, good repairs, and -sanitary improvements, and although it is slow it is certain. - -"The scarcity of farm labor and the high rates of wages that are now -demanded are keeping back improvements that farmers cannot make without -assistance, but the people are beginning to realize the advantages of -co-operation, and are helping each other in such a way that it seldom -becomes necessary to call outside labor. A holding that can only be -worked by the aid of paid labor under present circumstances is not -profitable, and a large farm cannot be worked to an advantage unless -the owner has a son to assist him. Not only have the wages of farm labor -increased, but its efficiency has decreased. Hired workmen now insist -upon better food and better accommodations. - -"There was undoubtedly ample room for improvement in the wages, the -food, and the treatment of farm laborers throughout Ireland. The -laborers cannot be blamed for demanding it; but a higher standard in -each of these respects meant an increase in the cost of cultivating the -soil and a decrease in the profits of the farmer. The labor situation is -due first to the emigration of the young men to America, and second to -the migration from the farms to the cities. - -"The estates commission has received very little complaint of the -regulations which require the punctual payment of installments and -interest money to the government. Here and there a purchaser objects -because he has to sell cattle or make some other sacrifice at an -inconvenient time to raise the money, and asserts that under the -landlord system he would have been allowed time; but such instances are -extremely rare, and very few persons admitted that they prefer a private -individual to the government as a landlord. The purchasers of farms -almost unanimously agree that their annual installments due the -government are very considerably less than the rents they were paying, -and they now have to sell a much smaller portion of their produce than -formerly to meet the rent. - -"It is right and proper that I should speak of the almost invariable -courtesy that has been shown to the commissioners and our inspectors -when we have visited the farmers," said Mr. Bailey in conclusion. "Very -rarely has any suspicion been exhibited, and the fullest information has -been given to us. This courtesy and good feeling was especially -manifested by the smaller and poorer farmers in the west and south of -Ireland. There was no spirit of cringing or cowardice. Both men and -women spoke with dignity and independence, and almost invariably -expressed themselves as gratified that a great department of the -government should wish to learn how they were getting along. They were -pleased that a government official should show sufficient interest in -their welfare to come and talk with them sympathetically. Many of them -inquired as to the workings of the new act in other parts of Ireland, -and asked advice on various small matters, which to them were of -importance." - - - - - VI - - SACRED SPOTS IN DUBLIN - - -There are many imposing public monuments in Dublin, the most conspicuous -of which is a massive pillar, one hundred and thirty-four feet high, -erected in 1808 in honor of Lord Nelson, hero of the battle of -Trafalgar. In Phoenix Park another native of Dublin, equally famous as -a fighter, is honored by a stubby sort of square shaft after the pattern -of the Washington monument in Washington, and a little more than -one-third of the height. On the four sides of the pedestal the Duke of -Wellington's greatest victories are illustrated by battle scenes in -bronze panels. Near this monument is the magazine in which the British -soldiers keep their ammunition. It was the subject of Dean Swift's last -epigram: - - "Behold! a proof of Irish sense; - Here Irish wit is seen. - When nothing's left that's worth defense, - We build a magazine." - -There is a fine equestrian statue of Lord Gough in Phoenix Park, cast -from the cannon taken by his command, and a bronze phoenix erected by -Lord Chesterfield when he was lieutenant-governor. - -Daniel O'Connell's great services to Ireland are commemorated by the -finest bridge over the Liffey River, and an imposing and elaborate -monument facing it upon the principal street of the town. It is a little -confusing because of the many figures that surround it. The statue of -O'Connell is twelve feet high, and is surrounded by fifty small statues, -all allegorical, the chief being that of "Erin" casting off her fetters -and pointing to the liberator as if to say, "He told me to do it." -Father Mathew is represented by a marble figure with a noble pose and -an unusually expressive face. It was made by a woman, a Miss Redmond. -There are also statues of Grattan, Curran, Edmund Burke, Thomas Moore, -Oliver Goldsmith, Sir Robert Stewart the musician, Smith O'Brien, Sir -John Grey, William of Orange, George I., George II., George III.; and -Queen Victoria sits in bronze upon a massive pedestal, surrounded by -famous figures representing the various colonies of the British Empire -upon which it has been frequently stated that the sun never sets. Of -modern men, Sir Benjamin Guinness, the brewer, his son, Lord Ardilaun, -and the late Archbishop Plunkett are honored, and some of the figures, -particularly the latter, are very good. - -At the "top" of O'Connell Street, as they say here, corresponding to the -O'Connell monument, will soon stand a tall shaft surmounted by a statue -of the late Charles Stewart Parnell. The money was raised in America by -John E. Redmond and Daniel Tallon, recently Lord Mayor of Dublin, and -the monument was designed and the figure cast by the late Augustus Saint -Gaudens. It was his latest and one of his most effective works. It was -quite appropriate that Saint Gaudens, who was an Irish boy, should have -been commissioned for this statue, which many consider the most -beautiful of all the many monuments in Dublin. - -Parnell's grave in Prospect Cemetery is not neglected, although I have -seen it stated repeatedly that such was the case. It occupies the most -prominent place in the cemetery, on the western side of the memorial -chapel, on a spot corresponding with that occupied by the towering -monument of Daniel O'Connell on the eastern side. The grave is in the -center of a large circle, surrounded by an iron fence, shaded by -beautiful trees, and large foliage plants which were in full bloom. The -turf is well kept, and here and there are memorial wreaths preserved -under glass globes. In the center of the circle is a high mound, -protected by a hedge of arbor vitæ, and ornamented by several rose -bushes. The grave is in the center of the mound. At the head is an iron -cross six feet high, and at the foot the name "Parnell" is worked out in -large letters of box. - -[Illustration: THE CUSTOMS HOUSE, DUBLIN] - -One of the employees of the cemetery, who showed us around, said that it -was the intention of Parnell's friends to erect a monument to correspond -with that of Daniel O'Connell on the other side of the chapel, but after -a discussion of several years they had decided to place the memorial -downtown at the site I have already mentioned, where it would always be -before the eyes of the public. O'Connell's body is buried in a crypt -underneath the monument. His heart is in a casket in the chapel of the -Irish College at Rome. - -Several other famous Irish patriots are buried in Prospect Cemetery, and -I asked the guide where the body of Robert Emmet was laid. - -"That's a great sacret," he answered mysteriously, "an' I wouldn't tell -it to yer honor avin if I knew; with all respict to yer honor. It woul' -be the same as me life is worth. The soul of Robert Emmet has gone to -God. His bones is in the hands of the friends of Ireland, but will -remain in their prisint sacred hiding place until Ireland is free." - -Michael Davitt is buried in the town of Straid, County Mayo, where he -was born and where his parents were evicted from their home during his -childhood. The grave is marked with an ordinary stone. There has been no -movement thus far for a monument in his honor. His widow lives at -Dalkey, the lovely suburb of Dublin by the sea, which I describe -elsewhere. She is in excellent circumstances financially, has a -comfortable home,--much more comfortable than any she had during her -husband's lifetime,--and is educating her four children, two boys and -two girls, at the best schools. The oldest son, now a young man of -twenty-two, is studying law, and promises to show much of the ability of -his father. - -One bright day I made a pilgrimage to the birthplaces and homes of -famous Irishmen in Dublin. It is to be regretted that the people of that -city feel so little respect for the memory of their heroes as to permit -the scenes that were associated so closely with their careers to become -filthy whisky dives. Several of these sacred places are among the most -disreputable saloons in Dublin. - -Henry Grattan was born in 1746 in a house on Fishamble Street, near the -old church where Handel first produced his famous oratorio "The -Messiah," and was baptized in the Church of St. John near by. He was -educated in Trinity College, Dublin, and the trustees of that -institution have erected a statue in his honor outside the old house of -parliament, now the Bank of Ireland, which was the scene of his most -eminent services. He is represented in the attitude of pleading with -uplifted hands for the liberty of Ireland. The figure is the -personification of eloquence. - -Grattan spent his early life in Dublin, was admitted to the bar in 1773, -and entered parliament at the age of twenty-nine in 1775. He immediately -assumed the leadership of the opposition to the government, and it was -through his ability and able management that the king and the British -Parliament were compelled to give Ireland free trade and the -constitution in 1782. What was called "Grattan's parliament" lasted -nineteen years, and its activity was tremendous and comprehensive, and -the results may now be seen in every direction. It conferred innumerable -benefits upon the city of Dublin and upon the country at large. During -the nineteen years it was in session it made greater public improvement -than occurred in any single century before. It built the two greatest -edifices in Ireland,--the Four Courts and the customs house,--which are -beautiful examples of the classic school of architecture, and each cost -several millions of dollars. The Bank of Ireland was founded as the -financial agent of the government, but Grattan, when he moved its -establishment, little dreamed that it would store its gold and transact -its business in the very chamber where the act was passed. The Royal -Irish Academy was founded to promote "the study of science and polite -learning and antiquities." Three great hospitals were built; the College -of Physicians and Surgeons was incorporated and erected, a dignified and -stately building upon Stephen's Green. The commerce of the country was -developed and large warehouses and mercantile establishments were -erected to accommodate it. Many new manufactories were established. -Highroads were built in every direction, coach lines were inaugurated -to accommodate travel, and sailing packets to carry passengers and mails -across the sea. The canal was built, one hundred miles long, to bring -freight to the city. Penny post was introduced. The Guinness brewery was -developed, with a great profit to the proprietors, and began to send to -England the beer it had been selling for local customers for half a -century. - -[Illustration: THE BANK OF IRELAND, DUBLIN] - -Grattan was the leader of all this prosperity, and introduced many and -advocated all of the laws to encourage it. As an acknowledgment of his -services, Parliament voted him a gift of $250,000, which enabled him to -settle down as a country gentleman at a seat called "Tinnehinch," near -the town of Enniskerry, a few miles south of Dublin, near the -watering-place called Bray. The British government offered him the -viceregal lodge, now occupied by the lord lieutenant, in Phoenix Park; -but Grattan declined it, for fear the gift might be misinterpreted. - -This period of self-government, which might be called "the golden age" -of Ireland, lasted nineteen years, when "Grattan's parliament" fell, as -so many other good things have fallen, because it became "vain of its -own conceit." It is not expedient, it is not wholesome, for the same -party to remain in control of affairs too long. Its members become -corrupt, extravagant, selfish, intolerant, and indifferent to the public -welfare, and Grattan's parliament acquired all of these faults. The -great leader--and he was one of the ablest political leaders that ever -came upon the theater of public affairs--was unable to control his -followers. They became restless, they favored measures that he could not -approve, and advocated a radical policy toward the British government -that he opposed with all his energy and eloquence. - -He was soon displaced from leadership by the extremists, who demanded -absolute separation from England and encouraged the revolutions of 1798 -and 1803. These movements were undoubtedly encouraged by the example of -the French Revolution, when the hot heads came into control. Ireland -burst into rebellion, which was put down with the utmost severity, and -William Pitt, Prime Minister of Great Britain, introduced the act of -union which was adopted by the Irish house through bribery, bulldozing, -and other disreputable measures. - -Grattan was very ill, but, leaning on the shoulders of two friends, and -dressed in his old volunteer uniform, he entered the Irish house of -parliament, now the cash-room of the Bank of Ireland, and made the -greatest speech of his life. But he failed to change the destiny of his -country. He did not change a vote, and the bond which now binds Ireland -to Great Britain, and which the Irish people have been trying to -dissolve ever since, was passed against his vehement protests. If his -advice had been followed by the Irish parliament, if its members had -listened to his pleadings, the disturbances, the distress, the bloodshed -of a century would have been spared. William Pitt bought a majority of -the votes and paid for them with pensions, official positions, titles of -nobility, and other forms of reward. - -The debate provoked a duel between Grattan and Correy, chancellor of the -exchequer. Shots were exchanged and Correy was wounded in the hand. - -Grattan pronounced the funeral oration of the Irish parliament in the -words that are immortal: - -"I do not give up my country," he said. "I see her in a swoon, but she -is not dead. Though in her tomb she lies helpless and motionless there -is upon her lips a spirit of life, and on her cheek a glow of beauty-- - - "'Thou art not conquered; beauty's ensign yet - Is crimson in thy lips and in thy cheeks, - And death's pale flag is not advanced there.'" - -It is true, as the man of the cemetery told us, that the burial place of -Robert Emmet is unknown. Many people believe that his body was given to -the surgeons of Trinity College after his execution, because if it had -been given to his friends they would have erected a monument to mark his -grave. No one of all the many people who admired and loved him has ever -been able to obtain a clew to its disappearance. It is a popular -belief, which the leaders of patriotic movements encourage, that the -burial place is known and will be disclosed, as the man at the cemetery -said, when the flag of freedom floats over "The Ould Sod," but there is -no good reason for such a romantic hope. Several of those who would be -informed if there were any foundation for such an expectation have told -me that it is all romance; that Emmet's grave has never been discovered -and probably never will be, because it doesn't exist. - -I went to the home of Robert Emmet in Marchalsea Lane, near the debtor's -prison, where he used to meet his fellow conspirators while organizing -the insurrection of the United Irishmen in 1803. Emmet was a brilliant, -eager boy, only twenty-four, and had been expelled from the University -of Dublin for sympathy with the revolution of 1798. He went to Paris, -remained there for a while until things had quieted down, and then -returned to Dublin, where he conceived a rash project to seize the -castle and the fort. The authorities were taken entirely by surprise, -but the country contingent which had been promised to support him failed -to arrive, and Emmet, with less than a hundred men, armed with -pikes--simply spearheads mounted on the ends of poles--marched against -the castle and, of course, were immediately overcome. Many of his -followers, who fled to their homes, were killed at their own doors, and -Emmet became a fugitive. - -Robert Emmet was born in Dublin in 1778 and was a playmate and -schoolfellow of Thomas Moore, the poet. His brother, Thomas Addis Emmet, -born in 1764, was involved in the revolution of 1798 and fled to -America, where he became eminent at the bar of New York, serving at one -time as attorney-general of that State. He left several sons and -grandsons. - -When Robert Emmet escaped, after the failure of his foolish attack upon -the castle, he took refuge among friends in the Wicklow Hills, south of -Dublin, to await an opportunity to cross over to France. Against their -protests he went at night to say good-by to his sweetheart, Sarah -Curran, daughter of the famous advocate, was arrested and tried for high -treason. He conducted his own defense with extraordinary ability. His -closing speech stands as one of the greatest examples of eloquence in -the English language. He was condemned to death and hanged outside of -St. Catherine's Church, upon the spot where Lord Kilwarden, an eminent -judge of the highest integrity, was killed by some of Emmet's men while -returning with his nephew and daughter from a visit to the country. - -Emmet, in his farewell speech, asked that his epitaph should not be -written until Ireland was free, and that undoubtedly suggested the -popular belief that his burial place is known and will be disclosed in -due time. - -Sarah Curran died soon after in Sicily of a broken heart, and Tom Moore, -one of Emmet's most beloved friends and also devoted to Miss Curran, -enshrined the pathetic story in a touching ballad: - - "She is far from the land where her young hero sleeps, - And lovers are round her sighing; - But coldly she turns from their gaze and weeps, - For her heart on his grave is lying. - - "She sings the wild songs of her native plains, - Every note which he loved awaking; - Ah! little they think, who delight in her strains, - How the heart of the minstrel is breaking." - -Near by the place where Emmet and his fellow conspirators planned the -revolution of 1803, is No. 151 Thomas Street, the house in which Lord -Edward Fitzgerald, leader of the insurrection of 1798, was captured -after desperate struggle, and it is a curious coincidence that he and -Emmet should both have been arrested by the same man, a certain Major -Sirr, in command of a regiment at the castle. Lord Edward's refuge was -the house of a tailor who sympathized with the insurrection, as almost -every other artisan in Ireland did, and sheltered him for several days -before the arrest. The house is marked with a tablet and an appropriate -inscription. Lord Edward was wounded in the shoulder by Major Sirr and -carried away to prison, where he died before he could be brought into -court. - -The Corn Market of Dublin is just beyond the house, and the name of the -thoroughfare is there changed to Thomas Street, which is customary in -Dublin. Sometimes there is a different name for every block, and it is -very puzzling to a stranger. You walk from Clare Street into Merrion -Street and from Merrion Street into some other; from Dame Street into -the Corn Market, and from the Corn Market into Thomas Street, all -unconscious, but the names are plainly posted on the walls of the corner -houses both in English and Gaelic, so that he who runs may read. - -Thomas Street is very wide, and that is understood when you know it was -formerly an open market-place outside the city walls for the sale of -country produce. The octroi tax levied by the corporation on the farmers -who brought in vegetables, butter, chickens, and eggs was paid in kind, -a measure of corn from each sack, a pound of butter from each firkin, -and one egg from every twelve, which was the origin of a proverb that -eleven eggs make a dozen in Ireland. The taxes were farmed out to the -highest bidder, who exacted every penny possible from the farmers and -used every means of extortion that could be devised to increase his -profit. The most odious of all the Dublin tax contractors in history was -a woman named Kate Strong, and they hated her so that after her death -the farmers erected a gross caricature of her person holding a large -toll dish in her hand. It stood for several years. - -James Street succeeds Thomas Street on the same thoroughfare and runs -down upon the river quay, where the enormous brewery establishment of -the Guinness Company begins. - -Across the river from the big brewery is No. 12 Arran Quay, named for -the son of the Duke of Ormonde, where Edmund Burke was born in 1729 of a -Protestant barrister and a Catholic mother. He was educated at a Quaker -school at Ballitore, County Kildare, and at Trinity College, where in -1747 he organized a debating club, which still exists. - -After finishing his course in 1750 he went to London "to keep terms at -the Temple," that is, to finish his law studies and prepare for his -examinations; but suddenly, owing to some disappointment, he conceived -a strong distaste for his profession, and plunged into a wild career of -dissipation. He was introduced by Goldsmith to that circle of Bohemians -which gathered nightly at the Cheshire Cheese Inn and similar resorts. -He was a close companion of Garrick, Johnson, and others, and became one -of the many devoted attendants of his beautiful countrywoman, Peg -Woffington, the famous actress. - -His dissipation gave his family great distress and caused his father to -cut off his allowance. This compelled him to do something for himself. -He went into politics, and soon made a reputation as a speaker and -writer and political manager. He wrote a great deal that was serious and -even sublime, and, mending his ways, secured the patronage of the -Marquis of Buckingham, the prime minister, who opened the doors of the -House of Commons for him. In a very short time he became the most -effective debater and the most influential leader of his party. Then his -abilities were fully recognized and his fame encircled the world. - -He was the ablest friend of the American colonies in England during the -Revolution, and harassed Lord North more than any other man. He reached -the summit of his influence at the impeachment of Warren Hastings for -misgovernment and treason while viceroy in India; and then Burke's sun -began to set. He retired upon a pension, and passed from history with -the eighteenth century. One of his eulogists has said that -"notwithstanding some eccentricities and some aberrations, he made the -tide of human destiny luminous." - -Near Burke's birthplace is the oldest and the quaintest church in -Dublin, built by the Danes before the English came to Ireland and -consecrated to St. Michan, a Danish saint. Within its walls is the -penitential stool, where "open and notorious naughty livers" were -compelled to stand and confess their sins in public and make pledges of -repentance and reform. The officiating minister, reciting the -fifty-first Psalm, led the offending sinner from the altar to the foot -of the pulpit,--barefooted, bareheaded, and draped in a long white -sheet,--and placed him upon the stool of repentance to hear a sermon -directed at his particular sins. - -The tower of St. Michan's dates from the twelfth century, and is one of -the most beautiful things in Dublin. The view from the top of it -includes all the city, which is divided into two almost equal parts by -the River Liffey and spreads over an uneven surface from the dark green -woods of Phoenix Park to the dark blue waters of the Irish Sea. - -Handel used to play the organ in St. Michan's Church, and it was there -the public first heard the score of "The Messiah." - -The most remarkable feature of St. Michan's, however, is a peculiar -preservative effect from the soil in the crypt upon the bodies that are -buried there. They mummify before decay sets in and turn into a leathery -brown, similar to the mummies of Egypt. The vaults are filled with -remains that have lain there for centuries. Among them is the body of -one of the kings of Leinster, and beside him is the corpse of a baby, -from whose tiny wrists white ribbon has been hanging since its funeral -in 1679. Every corpse in the crypt is mummified in the same way, and it -is the only place in Dublin where this phenomenon occurs. Nor is there -any satisfactory explanation of the phenomenon. The vaults are -absolutely dry. The popular theory is that a subtle gas arising from the -peaty soil suspends nature's law of decay. - -There will always be a controversy among Irishmen as to whether Edmund -Burke or Daniel O'Connell was the greater man. They were so different in -their characteristics that it is difficult to draw a comparison. -O'Connell was not a native of Dublin. He was born at the humble village -of Cahirciveen, in County Kerry, one of the most forlorn, impoverished, -and hopeless sections of the west coast. He was the son of an exile who -fled to escape arrest and entered the service of France, and from him -O'Connell inherited an intense prejudice and hatred of everything -English and Protestant. He was educated in Cork for the priesthood, but -changed his mind and was called to the bar when he was twenty-three -years old. He immediately made a reputation, and by the time he was -thirty was regarded as the ablest advocate in Ireland, without an equal -in oratory. Probably no man ever surpassed him before a jury. - -O'Connell is regarded by many as the ablest of all Irishmen, but, as I -have said, this claim is disputed in favor of Edmund Burke. He was -equally strong as a politician and undertook the cause of Catholic -emancipation in his very youth. In those days all Catholics were -disenfranchised; they could not hold office or even vote; the schools -were closed to them, and a Catholic child could only be taught by a -private tutor or governess. Daniel O'Connell organized the parish -priests for the movement and was the first to bring the clergy into -politics. Through them he organized the people, and regular -contributions were collected in the churches to pay the expenses of the -campaign. - -O'Connell was the first Catholic to enter parliament, and the Duke of -Wellington confessed that this was permitted only to avert a civil war. -In 1828 he was elected to the British House of Commons, but was not -admitted because he refused to take the anti-Catholic oath. He came back -to his constituents and was elected again, and they continued to elect -him, just as the merchants and bankers in the city of London continued -to elect Baron Rothschild, who was refused admission for the same -reason,--because he would not take the oath. He was the first Jew, as -Daniel O'Connell was the first Roman Catholic, to obtain a seat upon the -floor. - -O'Connell was elected lord mayor of Dublin in 1841 and was the first -Catholic to hold that office. At the height of his fame and power he -might have been a lord protector or the king of Ireland, but he -advocated peaceful revolutions, and, like Grattan, lost his influence -because he would not consent to the policy and the methods of the -radical and revolutionary element. In 1847 he went to address a meeting -of his sympathizers at Clontarf, a suburb of Dublin, where Brian Boru -won his great victory over the Danes in the last battle between -Christianity and heathenism upon the soil of Ireland. The meeting had -been forbidden by the authorities, and O'Connell was arrested, -convicted, and sentenced to prison for two months. This broke him down. -When he was released he left Dublin, started for Rome, and died at Genoa -on his way. He is buried in Prospect Cemetery under a lofty tower. His -will may be seen in the public records office in the Four Courts. He -married his cousin, Mary O'Connell, and had four sons, all of whom were -men of character and ability and have served in the British parliament. - -The anniversary of the birth of Thomas Moore is celebrated in Dublin -every summer, and a programme of his "Irish Melodies" is sung by local -musicians--sweet old-fashioned ballads like "The Harp That Once through -Tara's Halls," "Believe Me, if All Those Endearing Young Charms," and -others like them. The proceeds of the concert are devoted to a fund -which is to be raised to erect a monument in memory of this most popular -of Irish poets, whose songs are heard in every cottage in Ireland. His -most pretentious poem, a Persian epic called "Lalla Rookh," brought -$15,000,--the highest price ever paid for a poem. Scott's "Lady of the -Lake" and some of Tennyson's and perhaps Kipling's poems and other -poets', have received larger sums in royalties, but no other man was -paid so much for his verses in advance of their publication. - -Moore was born in a little house on Aungier Street, Dublin, which is -unfortunately now a filthy saloon. He was educated in a little grammar -school in Johnston's Court, off Grafton Street, near the Shelbourne -Hotel, where Richard Brinsley Sheridan was also a pupil. Petty, the -first great Irish scientist, who was also a physician and surveyor, was -educated there. His book of surveys made for Oliver Cromwell is still -used by the authorities. - -Tom Moore was a chum of Robert Emmet at Trinity College. After -graduation he entered journalism and was connected with the _London -Times_ and the _London Chronicle_. He went to Bermuda as British consul -in 1803, and visited the United States before he returned. He was -lionized everywhere because his plaintive Irish ballads, which he set to -the music of the oldest peasant airs, were in the portfolio of every -musician in the civilized world, and his social attractions made him a -welcome guest. When he returned to England he was given a pension of -$1,000 a year until his death. - -Volumes might be written concerning the literary reminiscences of -Dublin. Addison was private secretary to the notorious viceroy Wharton, -and the evidence indicates that his behavior was not so blameless as the -readers of Macaulay's sketch of his life would infer. His official -correspondence shows that he was not exempt from the usual weaknesses of -humanity and not above making an honest penny out of his office. He -seemed to be avaricious, and, although holding a position of the closest -confidence to the lord lieutenant, took an interest in several -commercial ventures that were not entirely beyond criticism. - -Samuel Lover and Charles Lever, those two greatest of all delineators of -Irish character, were both born and educated in Dublin and did most of -their work there. Their graphic sketches of Irish life may have been -accurate in their day, and now and then, I am told, appears one of the -rollicking types of the Irishman they describe; but, while the character -of the race may not be changed, its habits and customs are quite -different from those of the period they describe. There's a grammar -school at which Tom Moore and Richard Brinsley Sheridan both received -their education. Sheridan was born on the same block, and the house is -marked by a tablet. Another tablet near the entrance of a house only a -few steps distant shows where Sir William Hamilton, the great Irish -mathematician, lived. Mrs. Hemans, that gentle hymn writer, whose lines -were much more familiar to the reading public half a century ago than -they are to-day, lived and died in the same neighborhood, and was buried -in St. Anne's Church, near by. Her epitaph, taken from one of her own -serene poems, reads: - - "Calm on the bosom of thy God, - Fair spirit, rest thee now! - Even while with us thy footsteps trod, - His seal was on thy brow." - -[Illustration: ST. STEPHEN'S GREEN. DUBLIN] - -Near by the home of Mrs. Hemans is the Royal Irish Academy, occupying a -fine old mansion, once the residence of Lord Northland. It is the oldest -and most influential of the learned societies of Ireland, and possesses -a large number of ancient manuscripts in the Gaelic tongue, most of -them, despite their great age, beautifully clear and legible. The -academy, according to its charter, was founded "for the encouragement of -science, polite literature, and antiquities." There is a good deal of -interest in the attempt to revive the Gaelic tongue, but the bitter -partisanship of politics renders polite literature quite useless. - -There is a great deal that is green about Dublin, and the remark is not -intended as a joke. There are several fine parks and breathing-places -scattered about the city. Many of the residences have large back yards -filled with trees and flowers that are hidden from the public by the -high walls that guard them from the street, but one can see them from -the tops of the tram cars as he rides about. The suburbs of the city are -very attractive, with plenty of large trees and vine-clad walls and -pretty gardens, and here and there a tennis court. As you look down upon -the city from a tall tower there is almost as much foliage as in -Washington. Phoenix Park is famous, and one of the largest public -playgrounds in the world. - -St. Stephen's Green is a rectangular inclosure, twenty-two acres in -extent and corresponding to four city blocks, in the fashionable -quarter, and is surrounded by the mansions of the nobility and the homes -of the rich. Lord Iveagh, the representative of the Guinness Brewery -family, has a residence on one of the sides, and the archbishop's palace -is on the other side, near the Shelbourne Hotel, which is the best in -the city, and several clubs. St. Stephen's is handsomely laid out, and -has what I have never seen before in a city square,--a bridle-path -nearly a mile long around the interior of the fence, where several -gentlemen take their exercise on horseback in the morning. - -Sir Walter Scott was entertained in what he writes was "a very large and -stately house in Stephen's Green, which I am told is the most extensive -square in Europe," and, writing to his wife, he said, "The streets -contain a number of public buildings of the finest architecture I have -seen anywhere in Britain." - -A few blocks away from St. Stephen's Green is another large park known -as Merrion Square, which is a private inclosure like many of the small -parks in the city of London, and is accessible only to the residents of -the neighborhood, who, I understand, purchased the land and made it into -a park two or three hundred years ago, so that the public has no rights -there. Each of the leaseholders who are entitled to its privileges is -required to pay $5 a year for maintaining it and "half a crown for a key -to the gates," as I was informed by a policeman on that beat. It is a -pretty place, with deep, lustrous turf such as you seldom see outside of -the British Isles, and find in Ireland smoother and richer and greener -than anywhere else. There are a pond and several tennis courts, cricket -and croquet grounds, which are occupied every afternoon by the rich -families in the neighborhood; and it makes you feel a little resentful -to see the children of the poor, who need that breathing space more than -the owners, peeking through between the iron pickets. It is said that -this square plot of ground, which is equal to four ordinary squares in -area, was formerly a pond, and that the Duke of Leinster in early days -used to sail a boat upon it. But it was drained two hundred years ago or -more, and the splendid great trees that are growing there now were then -planted. Leinster House is in the neighborhood. - -The residences around St. Stephen's Green and Merrion Square are built -of ugly brown bricks, but are spacious in their proportions, and were -intended for large families of ample means, and the aristocracy have -always occupied them. The Duke of Rutland has one of the largest, and in -Merrion Street, just around the corner, at No. 24, in a large house now -occupied by the land commission, the great Duke of Wellington was born. -It was the town residence of the Earl of Mornington, his father, and her -ladyship came in from Dangan Castle, twenty-four miles outside the city, -and the country residence of the family, a few days before the event, -which occurred on April 29, 1769. There is nothing either in the castle -or in the town house to interest people to-day, except that they were -the birthplace and the home of one of the greatest of Irishmen, and his -fellow countrymen have raised a shaft, similar to that at Washington, in -Phoenix Park in his honor. - -Across from Merrion Square is the National Gallery of Ireland, which was -built in 1864, and contains a fine collection of paintings, numbering -about five hundred, which have been presented and purchased from time to -time. All of the old masters are well represented, and the Dutch school -is especially strong. Attached to the gallery is the Metropolitan School -of Art, which is liberally supported by the British government, and has -a large number of students. Corresponding to the Art Gallery, on the -opposite side of a quadrangle known as Leinster Lawn, formerly the -garden of the Earl of Kildare, is the Science and Art Museum and the -Museum of Natural History. Both are well arranged and full of -interesting things, particularly Irish antiquities, historical relics, -and examples of Irish industries. The most precious object is an iron -bell shaped like an ordinary cow-bell and riveted on each side, which, -it is said, St. Patrick used to carry about with him and ring to call -the people together to hear mass. It is accompanied by a silver "shrine" -or case for its protection, made in the year 1100 at the expense of -Donald O'Laughlan, king of Ireland from 1091 to 1105. The "Annals of -Ulster," written in the year 552, refer to this precious object as "The -Bell of the Will," and its history is known from that date. It came into -possession of the Archbishop of Armagh in 1044, and was among the relics -in the cathedral there until it was brought to the museum in 1869. No -one here seems to doubt that it is genuine. - -In the adjoining case is another "shrine," as the case or covering for -sacred relics is called, that contains a tooth of St. Patrick, which, -according to the tradition, was loosened and fell from his mouth on the -door-sill of St. Brone's Church at Killaspugbrone in County Sligo, and -can be accounted for all these years. - -A brooch formerly worn by the King of Tara is also shown as an example -of the prehistoric work of the silversmiths of Ireland, with many other -beautiful pieces of silver and gold which were dug up in the bogs. - -Between the museum and the library is a fine old mansion known as -Leinster House, or Kildare House, erected by the great earls of Kildare, -the leaders of the Geraldines, who chose this spot four hundred years -ago for the location of the largest and at that time the most -magnificent city residence in Ireland. It once stood in the center of -large grounds, but they have been sold off from time to time, and nearly -a hundred years ago the residence passed into the possession of the -Royal Dublin Society, which has made it the center of activity during -its long and honored career in encouraging and developing the arts, -science, and industries of Ireland. The membership of the Royal Dublin -Society for two centuries has included all of the famous men of this -nation, and they have rendered a very important service. The Royal -Library, the National Gallery, the Museum of Natural History, and the -Museum of Antiquities owe their existence to this venerable institution, -and its influence has gathered the greater part of the pictures in the -gallery and the articles of interest in the museums. - -Kildare House is a severe pile of black stone, and the guide-book says -that "the White House at Washington is largely a reproduction of its -main features, though the American building has a semicircular -colonnaded porch, which rather conceals the likeness." But a resident of -Washington would find little resemblance between the two buildings, -except that they are about the same size and both have windows and a -roof. - -The corner stone bears a curious inscription in stilted Latin, which -illustrates the lofty pride of the earls of Kildare. It is addressed to -"The Casual Explorer, who may find it among the stately ruins of a -fallen house, and bids him mark the greatness of the noble builders and -the uncertainty of all things terrestrial, when the men who raise such -splendid monuments can rise superior to misfortune." - -There are several other fine old edifices in the neighborhood, but -unfortunately many of the historic houses are passing away from the -families who built and lived in them, and are now being used for public -offices or business purposes. - -About half a mile from Trinity College, on the road to Phoenix Park, -is the ancient prison of Dublin, called Newgate, after a similar -institution in London, and it has had a similar history. It has been the -scene of horrible incidents; it has detained many of the purest and -ablest martyrs for Irish liberty within its walls, and a hundred years -ago it was frequently described in sketches of Irish life, in terms -similar to those that were written of the Fleet Prison and Newgate in -London. It was customary to have executions outside the walls in public, -and the night before they were hung favored criminals were allowed to -entertain their friends in a reckless, disgraceful carousal. Such a -scene is described in a ribald song entitled "The Night before Larry was -Stretched." - - "Then in came the priest with his book, - And spoke to him smooth and so civil. - Larry tipped him a Kilmainham look, - Then pitched his big wig to the devil; - Then raising a little his head, - To get a swate drop of the bottle, - And painfully sighing he said, - O, the hemp will be soon round my throttle." - -Phoenix Park has about eighteen hundred acres of lawn, flower beds, -forest, meadow, and pasture, and nineteen miles of perfect roadway. It -is open to the public at all times and there are no restrictions. A -horseback rider can gallop over the grass anywhere, cricket matches can -be played wherever is most convenient to the players. Racing meetings -are held on the turf several days in each month, the course being laid -out by movable fences. Polo, hockey, football, and all other kinds of -outdoor games are going on all the time, and almost the entire working -population of Dublin may be seen scattered over the park during these -long summer evenings, when one can read outdoors until after nine -o'clock. There is no more beautiful park, and no greater enjoyment is -found in any similar place in the world. - -The viceregal lodge, in which the lord lieutenant of Ireland resides -nine months in the year, is in the center of the park, surrounded by an -inclosure of fifteen acres with a garden, stables, and cottages for the -servants. The chief secretary of Ireland and the under secretary have -official residences in the same neighborhood, provided by the state. -Immediately before the windows of the viceregal lodge Lord Frederick -Cavendish, chief secretary for Ireland, and Thomas H. Burke, the under -secretary, were assassinated in 1882. The assassination was witnessed by -the occupants of the lodge, but before they could reach the place the -assassins had escaped. The spot is now marked in an unobtrusive manner. - -Phoenix Park was formerly owned by the Knights of St. John. When their -lands were confiscated by Henry VIII. at the time of the Reformation, -the monastery was selected as the official residence of the viceroy. -Additional grounds were purchased later by the Duke of Ormonde, when he -was viceroy, and the great Chesterfield, when he held the office, did -the landscape gardening, which illustrates his exquisite taste. The park -is beautiful always, they say, but it could not be more beautiful than -it is in May, when the hawthorn trees are white with blossom, the furze -bushes are blazing with orange, and the rhododendrons, which grow to -enormous size, are great banks of purple against the rich, deep foliage. -Every flower that grows in that climate seems to be in bloom, and -Phoenix Park looks as if it had just left the hands of the Creator. - - - - - VII - - THE OLD AND NEW UNIVERSITIES - - -Imagine a university and a campus of forty-seven acres of lawn and grove -where Trinity Church stands in New York or where the post office stands -in Chicago or St. Louis. In Washington we have something like it in the -mall where the National Museum, the Smithsonian Institution, and the -Agricultural Department are. Trinity College, Dublin, has an equally -expansive setting of green grass and grove and flowering shrubs, cricket -grounds, and tennis courts, surrounded on all sides by business houses, -clubs, and hotels. It is like an island of verdure in the midst of an -ocean of trade and commerce. On one side of the campus the outside world -is kept at bay by a continuous line of dormitories and lecture-rooms -which overlook a busy street from the windows of one wall and a peaceful -lawn from the windows of the other. On the south side the barrier is a -high iron picket fence hidden in a wonderful hedge of hawthorn and -laburnum bushes. On the other side of that hedge are shops, and a -street-car line that leads to the more attractive part of the city. -There are only two entrances to the college green, one at the east end -and the other at the west, and it is nearly a half mile walk from one to -the other across the green and among the buildings. The main entrance -and the main buildings face the Bank of Ireland and look upon Dame -Street, which is the Wall Street of Dublin. There is a little green -crescent to divide the entrance from the street, with bronze figures of -Edmund Burke and Oliver Goldsmith, two of the most distinguished of the -alumni. - -The main building is a fine example of architecture, and the house of -the provost, which adjoins it, is a gem of the Elizabethan type. The -other buildings are unpretentious. They are rather low and long and -plain, in excellent proportions, but without particular individuality, -although the engineering building, which stands out on the campus, is an -exquisite example of modern architecture, and Ruskin pronounced it the -most beautiful modern structure in the United Kingdom. - -As you enter through a low archway under the main building you come into -a quadrangle formed by a dormitory and an examination hall at the right. -Beyond that is a library. Another dormitory stands on the left, and the -chapel and the dining-hall (the last two have Grecian porticos), and -directly before you a bell tower of beautiful and original design -erected about one hundred years ago. Beyond the first quadrangle is -another, which is gloomy and uninviting. The buildings are plain, and -the dark stone of which they are made is not cheerful. The students call -it "Botany Bay," because of the prison-like style of the architecture -and its uninviting appearance. The buildings surrounding it are -dormitories, and in one of them, No. 11, Oliver Goldsmith roomed. He -wrote his autograph with a diamond upon one of the panes of glass, which -has since been removed and preserved in the library, where it lies in a -case beside the original manuscript of Handel's oratorio, "The Messiah," -which was given there for the first time in 1745. A portion of it was -written in England, but it was completed in Dublin and sung by a Dublin -choral society immediately after. - -In "Botany Bay" is a pump of great age and much history. In early days -it was the focus of academic disorder, and any policeman, sheriff, or -bailiff who dared violate the sacred precincts of Trinity was purged of -his guilt by a thorough ducking. The origin of this form of punishment -is attributed to a famous Dr. Wilder, who for many years was provost of -the college. He happened to be crossing the campus one day, when a -bailiff, who had a writ to serve, was being baited by a group of -students, and called out to them something like this: "Young gentlemen, -be careful that you do not put him under the pump," and they took the -hint. - -[Illustration: QUADRANGLE, TRINITY COLLEGE, DUBLIN] - -Another version of the story is that Dr. Wilder cried out, "Young -gentlemen, for the love of God don't be so cruel as to nail his ears to -the pump;" and certain authors have claimed that they interpreted him to -mean the reverse, and did what he had forbidden them. But I am assured -by competent authority that the former and more humane version is the -true one, and all agree that ever since those boisterous days every -officer of the law who has been caught within the college grounds has -been given an involuntary bath from "Old Mary." - -The war between the students and the police has continued ever since the -foundation of the college, and as the buildings are situated in the very -center of the city these conflicts have been unexpected and more -frequent than they might have been otherwise. In former days "Trinity -boys" never went out of the grounds without their peculiar weapons, -which were the massive keys of their rooms, about six inches long and -weighing a half a pound or more, which they would sling in handkerchiefs -or in the skirts of their gowns and use very effectively for offense or -defense, as the case might be. On one occasion several students were -captured and hustled off from their fellows to a butcher-shop, where -they were hung from the meat hooks. The rumor ran like a prairie fire -that the captives had been impaled, but when the rescuing party arrived -it was discovered that they were hanging only by the waistbands of their -breeches. - -The walls of Examination Hall are hung with portraits of eminent men, -and in one corner is a full-length painting of Queen Elizabeth, the -founder. There is a superstition among the students that the picture has -an evil eye, and that whoever sits within her sphere of influence at -examinations is bound to fail. Hence the benches in that neighborhood -are empty. But a certain alcove in the library is quite crowded. Several -full sets of examination papers are preserved from year to year in that -particular alcove, and every day during examination weeks it is filled -with students cramming from them. - -Across the quadrangle is the chapel. It is not specially interesting, -although there is some fine wood-carving in the stalls. The students are -required to wear surplices, and look very awkward in them, although the -white gowns light up the room and make it much more cheerful than if -they wore black. When I attended service Sunday morning two-thirds of -the stalls were vacant, although attendance is supposed to be -compulsory. I counted exactly one hundred and four persons present, -including the preacher, the professors, and ten boys in the choir. These -boys belong to the choir of St. Patrick's Cathedral, and are loaned to -the college authorities in order to increase the interest of the Sunday -services. It is considered the finest choir in Ireland, but that isn't -saying much. - -The organ in the gallery has a curious history. It was made in the -Netherlands for some church in Spain, and was on its way when the ship -was captured in 1702. The Duke of Ormonde, serving in the fleet, claimed -the organ as his part of the prize money, and presented it to the -college. Many of the old pipes have been replaced, but the case remains -the same. Another interesting relic is a great chandelier which formerly -hung in the House of Commons when the Irish parliament occupied the -building now used for the Bank of Ireland. - -Beyond the chapel is a curious-looking recumbent statue made of onyx, -which has been crumbling so rapidly for years that it now bears very -little resemblance to a human form, and the features are entirely -effaced. The students claim that it was intended for Queen Elizabeth, -the founder, but it was really a figure of Luke Chaloner, one of the -first promoters of the institution. - -The grounds occupied by the college once belonged to All Hallows -monastery, which was suppressed by Henry VIII. and the property -confiscated. It stood well outside of the city walls and was unoccupied -when, toward the end of the reign of Queen Elizabeth, a number of Dublin -scholars raised a fund of £2,000 to establish an institution for higher -education. Queen Elizabeth gave the confiscated estates of several rebel -chiefs and James I. increased the endowment, but it was not until the -reign of William and Anne that the college was really prosperous. They -were very generous toward it, and the Irish parliament made liberal -grants. But many a time the fellows have been compelled to melt up the -college plate and resort to other desperate means to find money to pay -for food and fuel. - -During the entire history of the institution its faculty and students -have been loyal to the British government and to the Protestant church. -It has refused to receive Roman Catholics into the faculty, and for -centuries Roman Catholics were prohibited from enjoying its advantages -in education. Therefore it is not strange that it is under the ban of -that church, and there has not been a Catholic student upon the rolls -for many years. An Irish Roman Catholic gentleman remarked one day to a -member of the faculty: "If I had wanted to send my son to Trinity I -would have to fight first my priest, second my bishop, and third my -wife. Therefore I sent him to Oxford." - -There are now five departments in the university,--the regular academic -department, and schools of law, medicine, theology, and engineering. -There are in attendance to-day twelve hundred and forty-one students. - -Although the institution is familiarly known as Trinity College, that is -the title of the academic department, and with its affiliated schools it -constitutes the University of Dublin. The charter bears date of March -24, 1591, under the title of "The College of the Holy and Undivided -Trinity, near Dublin." Previous to 1873 the faculty, the fellows, and -those who held scholarships must be members of the Church of Ireland. -Since then all restrictions or disabilities have been removed, although -the history and traditions of the institution will not permit any -self-respecting Roman Catholic to send his son there. - -Rank is strictly recognized among the students. Noblemen, sons of -noblemen, and baronets are matriculated as such under the titles of -nobilis, filius nobilis, and equas; ordinary students are called -pensioners. Sizars are students of limited means, who must make oath -that their fathers' incomes are less than $500 a year, which exempts -them from all fees and gives them their commons or meals free of -expense. Pensioners pay $60 a year, fellow commoners $150, and noblemen -$300. When a young man enters in either of these classes he selects his -tutor and makes application for a room, which is assigned him as -vacancies occur, and he is recorded. A deposit of from $40 to $150 is -required as security against any injury to the property. The room rent -varies from $20 to $100 a year. All students are compelled to attend -chapel, both in the morning at half-past eight and in the evening at -nine o'clock, and wear surplices, but upon certificates may be allowed -to attend one of the Presbyterian churches. - -At half-past ten every Saturday morning the junior dean appears at the -hall and reads out the names of all students who have violated the rules -or neglected their duties during the week, and those who are present may -offer excuses, which may or may not be accepted by the dean. If they are -not accepted the student is fined a sum of money in lieu of other -punishment, and these fines are added to the commons fund, which goes to -pay for the meals of the students and is controlled by the "clerk of the -buttery books." - -Fellow commoners pay seven shillings and sixpence a week for board, -pensioners five shillings, and members of the nobility ten shillings. A -fine of five shillings a week is imposed upon all students actually -resident in college who do not take their meals at the commons. - -Ten students holding scholarships, called "waiters," are annually -appointed to say grace before and after meat in the commons hall, which -must be repeated in Latin in a form prescribed by the statutes of the -college. All students are required to be in the college grounds before -nine o'clock for roll-call. After roll-call no one is permitted to pass -the gates without a written order from the dean. Those who do so are -severely fined. - -[Illustration: MAIN ENTRANCE, TRINITY COLLEGE, DUBLIN] - -Trinity College is one of the few great institutions of Europe which -give full degrees to women on the same terms as to men. There is no -distinction in rules or conditions or in any other respect. Women are -admitted to all of the several schools--arts, science, engineering, law, -and medicine--on an equal footing. There are now about one hundred in -attendance. At first the university gave degrees to all women who could -pass the regular examinations, and they came here in droves from Oxford, -Cambridge, and other institutions where they had been hearing lectures -but are not given degrees. All they had to do was to enter the -examinations and fulfill the requirements. But two years ago this -practice was stopped, and now no degrees are conferred upon young women -who do not take the full course at Trinity. The fees are the same as for -men--$50. The women students are mostly Irish, although a few English -girls, who are not satisfied with the certificates given them at -Cambridge and Oxford, come over here from Girton and other institutions -and work for the full degrees of B.A., B.S., Ph.D., and even for -diplomas in law and medicine. To accommodate them the university has -recently purchased a fine old mansion in Palmerston Park, where fifty or -sixty girls are now lodged under the care of a matron, subject to rules -similar to those which govern the men students in the dormitories on -University Green. Twenty-two degrees were granted to women in 1908, and -about the same number in 1907, chiefly in the department of arts, which -is the same as our academic courses, and most of the recipients are -intending to be teachers in women's schools and colleges. - -The story of the invasion of Trinity College by women is quite -interesting. The charter, which was granted by Queen Elizabeth, -recognizes no distinction of sex, race, or religion, and when Professor -Sylvester, now in the chair of mathematics in one of our American -colleges, was refused a degree at Cambridge because he was a Jew, he -came here, passed his examinations, and was given one. This opened the -gates, and several young women who had been denied degrees at Oxford and -Cambridge came to test their rights. On June 9, 1903, the senate of the -university passed a resolution "that it is desirable that the degrees of -Trinity College, Dublin, shall be open to women, and that his majesty's -government be requested to obtain a king's letter empowering the -university to grant degrees to women on such terms and conditions as may -seem to the board and council, within their respective provinces, on -full consideration, to be most expedient." - -On January 16, 1904, "Edward VII., by the Grace of God of the United -Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland and of the British Dominions beyond -the Seas, King, Defender of the Faith, sends greetings to all to whom -these presents shall come, with information that by the advice of our -Right Trusty and Right Well Beloved Cousin and Councillor, William -Humble, Earl of Dudley, Knight Grand Cross of the Royal Victorian Order; -Lord Lieutenant General and Governor-General of that part of our said -United Kingdom called Ireland, do by these presents authorize and -empower the said Provosts and Senior Fellows and their successors in -office, and the said Senate of the University of Dublin, and the Caput -of the said Senate and all members thereof and all other persons or -bodies whose concurrence is necessary for the granting of degrees, to -interpret the charter and the statutes of said college in such a manner -that women may obtain degrees in the said University, all previous laws, -ordinances, and interpretations notwithstanding." - -Under this authority on May 5, 1904, the board adopted rules admitting -women to all lectures, examinations, degrees, and prizes except -fellowships and scholarships, their fees being the same as those for -men, and all the rules applying to them equally, except that in the -medical department "women shall practice dissection separately from men -and medical lectures shall be given them either separately or in -conjunction with men, as the professors may think best." - -In June, 1904, the senate also passed "a grace" for giving degrees to -women who had attained a certain prescribed status in the universities -of Oxford and Cambridge, and had passed all the examinations and -fulfilled all the other requirements for the granting of degrees for men -at Trinity. - -The regulations require that women shall pay the same fees except those -for the commons (meals); that "except when entering or leaving college -they shall wear caps and gowns upon the college grounds unless -accompanied by a chaperon." They are not expected "to remove their caps -in the presence of the provost and fellows, and may wear them during -lectures and examinations." They are not permitted to visit the rooms of -men students in college unless accompanied by a chaperon. They are -examined separately; they are not required to attend chapel, and Miss -Lucy Gwynn was appointed lady registrar to act generally as adviser to -the women students and to report upon their conduct. - -Later it was decreed by the provost and senior fellows that scholarships -should be established for women upon the same terms as men to the value -of $150 a year and exemption from ordinary college dues, and several -women have already obtained them. - -The library of Trinity College is one of the most interesting places in -all Ireland and it has two relics which are incomparable in historic and -artistic value. One is the harp of Brian Boru, the greatest king in -Irish history. He ruled all Ireland for forty years, in the tenth and -eleventh centuries, and it is said that he was the only native that ever -was successful in keeping Ireland in peace. This is "The Harp that Once -through Tara's Halls," inspiring that beautiful ballad of Tom Moore. Its -authenticity has been questioned, and some people assert that it once -belonged to Henry VIII. of England, but no loyal Irishman will admit the -possibility of such a thing. - -The other relic, which cannot be questioned, is a copy of the four -gospels, known as "The Book of Kells," because it was made by the monks -of a monastery founded in 546 by St. Columkills, or St. Columba,--the -name is spelled both ways,--and the antiquarians think that it dates -back very nearly to that year. It is often described as "the most -beautiful book in the world," and one may easily believe such a claim to -be true. About three hundred pages, eight by fifteen inches in size, are -covered with the most exquisite pen-work that you can imagine, embossed -with gold leaf and illuminated in brilliant water-colors with perfect -harmony and marvelous skill. I have seen all of the great collections of -missals in the world, but have never found so fine and perfect an -example as this. There are many equally fine, but of smaller size, in -the museums in London and the continental cities. Pierpont Morgan has -several specimens of that sort of work, but the "Book of Kells" is -unsurpassed both for its artistic perfection and the size of its pages, -which are two, three, and four times larger than the best of the other -works of the sort. Each page must have required months to execute; each -is different in design and coloring, but is harmonious with the rest, -and it is difficult to say which is the most wonderful and the most -beautiful. - -The book was in the monastery at Kells in 1601 when that institution was -raided by the Spaniards, and having valuable covers of gold, was stolen -by some ignorant soldier who stripped it and threw the text into a bog -where it was found coverless by a peasant a few days later and taken to -Archbishop Ussher. He recognized it and kept it in his library until his -large and unique collection of books and manuscripts was purchased by -Cromwell and presented to Trinity College. There are other remarkable -books in the collection, including several chronicles of the early -history of Ireland, which are priceless, and one marvels at the artistic -skill and labor that they represent. They are also important as -illustrating the culture and learning of the people of Ireland at a -period when England and the continental countries of Europe were still -submerged in the barbarism of the Middle Ages. - -The library of Dublin University is one of several government -depositories, under the Stationer's Act, and receives a copy of every -book printed in the United Kingdom. By this method its shelves have been -rapidly filled and the catalogues contain more than a million entries. - -There is another, known as the National Library, only a few squares -away. It occupies a beautiful building erected at a cost of $750,000 to -correspond with the National Museum, which occupies the other side of a -quadrangle. It was opened in 1890 and has about three hundred thousand -volumes. There is a reading-room seventy-two feet square, with a glass -dome, where many people come daily to consult works of reference, and -certain persons have the privilege of taking books away. - -A bill that had been pending in the British parliament for several years -was passed in the summer of 1908 authorizing the establishment of two -new universities, one at Belfast, under the auspices of the Presbyterian -church, and the other at Dublin, under the control of the Roman -Catholics, although both theoretically will be non-sectarian, and no -religious tests will be required or allowed at either. - -The enactment of this law is a part of the contract agreed upon between -the liberal government and the leaders of the Irish party in parliament, -which is being carried out in good faith, and will be concluded at the -next general election, when it is hoped that the question of home rule -in Ireland will be submitted to the people of the United Kingdom. - -The Irish Catholics have been demanding a university of their own -supported by the state for many years. There has been no institution for -higher education at which a self-respecting Catholic could seek an -education, because the University of Dublin represents the Church of -Ireland, just as Oxford and Cambridge represent the Church of England, -and until a few years ago placed a ban upon Catholics and would not -permit them to have anything to do or say about the management. It was -perfectly natural, therefore, that when the trustees of Trinity took off -the ban, the synod of Maynooth should put it back, and Catholic students -were forbidden to attend lectures there by what is known as Decree -XXXVII. of the synod of Maynooth, declared in 1875 and confirmed by Pope -Pius IX. - -Religious tests at Oxford and Cambridge were abolished in 1871, at the -same time as at Trinity. In 1874 an attempt was made by the famous -Monseigneur Capel, who is now living in California, to found a Roman -Catholic university in England, but it failed, and since then the young -men of that church have attended Cambridge and Oxford, by permission of -the hierarchy, but the ban has never been removed from Trinity College, -Dublin. And one cannot blame them for not removing it. They cannot -forget the past. The Roman Catholics of Ireland were deprived of -educational privileges for centuries, and under the penal statutes of -Queen Anne were debarred from the learned professions. There are no -religious tests in Trinity College to-day, it is true, and students who -do not belong to the Church of Ireland are not required to attend -chapel. But the atmosphere and the influences and every tendency at -Trinity are naturally toward the Church of Ireland, which has a -theological school as a department of the university. - -Three independent non-sectarian institutions, known as Queen's colleges, -were founded by Queen Victoria about forty years ago, at Belfast, -Galway, and Cork. These are known as "godless colleges" because they -have no chapels, no religious exercises, and no religious instruction. -Queen's College at Belfast, however, is distinctively a Presbyterian -institution. Nearly all the faculty are prominent and active members of -that denomination, and students who are intending to enter the ministry -go from Queen's to Magee College, Londonderry, which is under the care -of the Presbyterian general assembly. Therefore Queen's College, -Belfast, occupies a relation to the Presbyterian denomination quite as -intimate as that of Trinity with the Episcopalians. - -The same conditions apply to both the Roman Catholic theological -seminary at Maynooth and the Presbyterian theological seminary at Magee. -The students at both of these institutions will be excused from residing -in the new universities, and may continue their studies exactly as at -present, going up to Dublin and to Belfast only to receive their -degrees. Several of the Roman Catholic colleges and the two "godless -colleges" now supported by the state at Cork and Galway are to be made a -part of the Roman Catholic university at Dublin, but Section 3 of the -bill provides that "no test whatever of religious belief shall be -imposed upon any person as a condition of his becoming or continuing to -be a professor, lecturer, fellow, scholar, exhibitioner, graduate, or -student of, or of his holding any office or emolument, or exercising any -privilege in, either of the two new universities or any constituent -college. Nor in connection with either of the new universities or any -such constituent college shall any preference be given or advantage -withheld from any person on account of his religious belief." It will be -permitted, however, for religious denominations to erect chapels or -other houses of worship in connection with either of the new -universities with their own funds for the accommodation of students -professing their faith, but no students shall be required to attend -religious exercises or religious instruction, and they shall be entirely -voluntary. It is well understood, however, and the bill is intended -precisely for that purpose, that one of the universities shall be Roman -Catholic and that the other shall be Presbyterian, just as the present -University of Dublin represents the Protestant Episcopal Church of -Ireland. - -Education and religion have always gone hand in hand both in ancient and -modern Ireland. The history of one is the history of the other. -Instruction has always been given either by or under the supervision of -priests and monks, and there have been regular teaching orders, like the -Christian Brothers, which combine religious with secular instruction, -with the catechism as their chief text-book. As early as the middle of -the sixth century the monastery schools of Ireland were famous all over -the world, and even at that date there were three thousand students at -Clonarde College, and an equal number at Bangor, at Monasterboice, and -several other centers of learning. The sons of kings, chiefs, nobles, -and other favored classes lived in the monasteries with their -instructors, but usually each ordinary student had a little hut of sod -built by himself, and often those from the same locality or the same -clan built houses for their common use. - -All of the more important schools had students from foreign lands. An -English bishop, writing in the year 705, says that they came in "fleet -loads" from Great Britain and the Continent. Many of them were princes -of royal houses. Several of the early kings of France and other -countries were educated in Ireland, which was for three or four -centuries the most learned country in the world. Great numbers of -Irishmen were employed as professors and teachers in the schools and -colleges of England and the Continent. Charlemagne, Charles the Bold, -and other monarchs of the Middle Ages called learned men from Ireland as -guests and as tutors in their courts, and the influence of Irish -scholars was greater than that of those from any other country. For four -or five hundred years after the time of St. Patrick the monasteries of -Ireland were the center and source of science, and art and learning of -every kind and the literature of the Gaelic reached its highest glory. -The Danish invasion destroyed these conditions and threw everything into -disorder. The monasteries were sacked, the monks were scattered, the -students fled to their homes, and the development of learning and art -suddenly was arrested. There was another revival during the reign of -Brian Boru, but that was interrupted by the Anglo-Norman invasion, and -Irish learning never again reached its previous fame. - -During the Reformation all the monasteries throughout Ireland except in -a few remote districts were suppressed. More than four hundred were -entirely destroyed and their inmates were turned out upon the world by -the agents of Henry VIII. Cromwell's governors were even more severe and -cruel, and the parliaments of 1692 and 1695 passed penal laws forbidding -the Catholic children of the country to be educated, either in schools -or in private houses. Education practically came to a standstill, -although many Irish Protestants all through the country did a great deal -in a quiet way to provide instruction for the children of Catholic -friends and neighbors. - -The Relief Act of 1782 allowed Roman Catholics to open schools of their -own, and the present national system, inaugurated in 1831, afforded -means of education for children of all denominations under the -supervision of their own priests, although members of different -denominations are required to receive religious instruction separately -and interference with the religious principles of any child is -forbidden. From that time to the present the number of schools has been -gradually extended, their efficiency has been improved, and the -government appropriations for education have been slowly increased from -year to year. - -The schools of Ireland are now governed by an act of parliament passed -in 1892, and Dr. W.M.J. Starkie, national commissioner of education, -explained the system to me as follows: - -"We have eight grades of primary schools," he said, "from kindergartens, -which receive pupils three years of age, up to the eighth grade, which -corresponds very nearly to that of the public schools in America, with -pupils fourteen or fifteen years of age. We have a compulsory education -law, but it is enforced according to the local conditions of different -districts,--a sort of local option which is applied where the people of -the counties of the districts desire it. The schools are practically -free. By the reorganization of 1892 certain schools were permitted to -charge fees, but no more than 1 per cent of them do so, and they are all -Protestant. No Catholic school collects tuition. - -"The schools of Ireland are controlled by a national board of twenty -members, appointed nominally by the lord lieutenant, one-half Protestant -and one-half Catholic, and an executive council in charge of -administration, also appointed by the lord lieutenant, one of whom, that -is myself, is always on duty at the headquarters of the board in Dublin. - -"Funds for the support of the schools are voted by parliament every year -with the usual budget, which are absolutely controlled by the board, who -make an annual report of their disposition. This year we have -£1,600,000, which is equivalent to about eight million dollars in your -money. The larger amount, which is about £1,250,000, goes to the payment -of the salaries of teachers; the next for the construction of new -buildings and repairs; the next item is for the maintenance of central -model schools, which are object lessons. The rate of expenditure per -pupil is about £3, or $15, a year, and has been gradually increasing -from time to time with the allowances that have been given us by the -government. Ten years ago the allowance for primary education was about -£1,250,000 or $6,250,000 in American money, and the _per capita_ was -about $12.50. - -"There are now about 8,600 primary schools in Ireland, with 16,000 -teachers and an average daily attendance of 490,000 out of a school -population enrolled of 730,000. - -"The following table will show the number and the average daily -attendance at the different schools: - - No. Schools. Av. Attend. - - Ordinary schools . . . . . . . . . . . 8,100 401,000 - Model schools . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73 6,955 - Convents and monasteries . . . . . . . 384 80,712 - -"The money is divided among these different schools as follows: - - Amount. Per Capita. - - Ordinary schools . . . . . . . . . . £1,038,854 £2 13s 10d - Model schools . . . . . . . . . . . . 27,755 3 19s 10d - Convents and monasteries . . . . . . 164,048 2 7s 6d - -"The average daily attendance seems very small, and is due to several -reasons: first, the lack of accommodations and the long distances -between schoolhouses in the thinly settled sections along the west coast -of Ireland, where some families are many miles from a schoolhouse, and -where the children have no means of conveyance to reach them. In all the -poorer sections of the country, where the men of the family go off to -England or Scotland to do labor, the children have to stay at home and -look after the place. They take care of the cows and the sheep and the -pigs. Many parents make their children work where the compulsory -education law and the child labor laws are not enforced. In the factory -towns of northern Ireland the laws prohibit children under eleven years -old working, and they are pretty well enforced. - -"The following table will show the number of children of the different -religious denominations enrolled in the national schools: - - Roman Catholic . . . . . . . . . . 541,638, or 74.4 per cent - Church of Ireland . . . . . . . . . 87,904, or 12.1 per cent - Presbyterian . . . . . . . . . . . . 82,434, or 11.3 per cent - Methodists . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9,387, or 1.3 per cent - Others . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6,794, or 0.9 per cent - -"Of the Catholic children a large number, perhaps 112,000, are in the -convents. The Catholic families prefer to send their girls to be taught -by the nuns. And about 10,000 boys are in the monasteries. - -"Every teacher is required to pass an examination prepared by the -commissioner of education as a test of his or her qualifications, and -the teacher is responsible to the educational department for the -enforcement of the rules and the application of the methods of -instruction that have received its indorsement. But, as a rule, teachers -are nominated by the priests of the Roman Catholic church or the clergy -of the Church of Ireland or those of the non-conformist churches, as the -case may be. The consequence is that there have to be separate schools -for each denomination, which naturally adds to the cost of maintenance. -In two-thirds of the schools, however, you will find both Protestant and -Catholic children. Any sect that can furnish twenty pupils can have a -school of its own, to run it as it likes at the expense of the -government and select its own teachers, provided the persons selected -demonstrate their qualifications by submitting to the regular -examinations. - -"Religious instruction, prayer, and other exercises of worship may take -place before and after the ordinary school hours, during which all the -children of whatever denomination may attend, but the regular school -business cannot be interrupted or suspended for any religious -instruction or worship or any arrangement that will interfere with its -usefulness or cause any pupils inconvenience in attendance. - -"No pupil who is registered as a Protestant is permitted to remain in -attendance during the time of religious instruction in case the teacher -is a Roman Catholic, and no pupil who is registered as a Roman Catholic -can remain in attendance during religious instruction by a teacher who -is not a Roman Catholic, and further, no pupil can remain in attendance -during any religious instruction whatever if his parents or guardians -object. A public notification of the hours of religious instruction must -be made in every school and kept posted in large letters for the -information of the public as well as the pupils. No schoolroom can be -connected with any place of worship; no religious emblems or emblems of -a political nature can be exhibited in any schoolroom, and no -inscription which contains the name of any religious denomination. - -"Thus we have, as you will see, all points guarded against religious -proselyting. Monks and nuns are eligible as teachers if they pass the -examinations, and any convent or monastery can be made a national school -by accepting the regulations and observing them. - -"The salaries for men teachers range from £77 to £175, and for women -from £65 to £141, according to length of service, experience, the grade -of the school, and the number of pupils. - -"We are introducing some modern ideas similar to those you have in -America. We have already introduced cooking into a thousand schools and -are introducing Gaelic as fast as the teachers can be found, but they -are very scarce. We furnish special instruction in the teachers' -colleges, or normal schools as you call them, and to excite the interest -of the children special prizes are offered for proficiency in Gaelic. - -"We are improving our school buildings generally, and parliament has -allowed £40,000 a year for three years for building new primary -schoolhouses. - -"Our secondary or intermediate schools are under the supervision of a -different board, also appointed by the lord lieutenant, and they -distribute £85,000 a year in grants to about four hundred different -institutions, preparatory, collegiate, and university." - -"What is the ratio of illiteracy in Ireland?" - -"It has gradually been reduced from 53 per cent of the population in -1841, the first census taken after the establishment of the national -school system, to 18 per cent in 1891 and 14 per cent in 1901. The ratio -of illiterates is being reduced nearly 1 per cent per year, and it is -calculated from five years old and upward. If the minimum age were made -seven years the ratio would be very much less. It is the old people and -the little ones under seven years who cannot read and write, and many -adults claim that they are unable to do so for their own reasons." - - - - - VIII - - ROUND ABOUT DUBLIN - - -The street-car system of Dublin is excellent. It reaches every part of -the city and all the lovely suburbs, and every line starts at a lofty -column, which was erected many years ago in the middle of the principal -street in honor of Horatio Nelson, the greatest of Irish sailors, the -hero of the battle of Trafalgar. The cars are large and neatly kept, the -conductors and motormen are very polite and love to give information to -strangers, although they are paid only thirty and thirty-six shillings a -week, which would certainly make men of their occupation very reticent -in America. The roofs of the cars are arranged with comfortable seats, -from which one can see everything within the range of human vision and -gratify his curiosity about what is behind the high stone walls, green -with lichen and ivy and overhung with lustrous boughs. There isn't much -satisfaction going about in an automobile in the immediate vicinity of -Dublin, because the roadways are mere tunnels between walls eight feet -high and overhung with foliage, which makes a perpetual twilight, a -damp, cool atmosphere, a dustless ride, and a picturesqueness that an -artist would admire. The owners of suburban homes have shut themselves -in so successfully that nobody can see what they are doing or enjoy the -wondrous beauties of their private parks. But the seats on the top of a -tram car permit the public to penetrate their secrets, give an abundance -of fresh air, gratify the love of motion that we all inherited from our -savage ancestors, and enable us to look beyond the barriers into -beautiful gardens and groves. - -The River Liffey, as I have told you in a previous chapter, divides all -Dublin into two parts and empties into a bay about four miles below the -business limits of the town. The bay is famous for its beauty, and is -closely embroidered with history, legend, and romance. One street-car -line follows the river and the north shore as far as the ocean, and then -turns northward to accommodate the population of several pretty -watering-places and fishing-towns. Another line, also starting from -Nelson's Pillar, follows the south bank of the Liffey and the bay and -encircles a most picturesque and romantic landscape. It takes three -hours to make a round trip by either of these routes, and one can spend -an entire afternoon or indeed a whole day with profit on both of them. - -We will take the south side first. The track runs through the best -residence section of the city and several of the prettiest suburbs down -to the port of Kingston, where all deep-draft steamers have to receive -and discharge their passengers and cargoes because the water is too -shallow for them above. The turbine ferries that cross St. George's -Channel from England land their passengers there and send them by rail -into the city. - -Between the frequent villages along the train line are comfortable and -spacious mansions surrounded by beautiful grounds owned and occupied by -the wealthy citizens of Dublin, and occasionally there is a long row of -"semi-detached villas" occupied by "the prosperous middle -classes,"--brick houses of two and three stories built in pairs, with -strips of lawn on either side and quite a little space for a garden at -the back. Every house has a name painted on the gatepost as well as a -number, and that is a matter of great importance, because, when Miss -Genevieve says she lives at Heatherhurst, Princes' Crescent, it sounds a -great deal more aristocratic than No. 1660 Rockville Road. Princes' -Crescent is a long block of two-story brick houses on a curve in the -street; Heatherhurst is one of them, situated about the middle, twenty -feet front and sixty feet deep, with thirty feet of lawn in the -foreground and a garden at the rear. And these houses are much more -comfortable than any the city can furnish, and I do not know of any town -so well provided with suburbs as Dublin. - -[Illustration: SACKVILLE STREET, DUBLIN, SHOWING NELSON'S PILLAR.] - -There are several historical places on the road. Beyond Booterstown -is Blackrock, where an ancient granite cross in the center of the main -street marks the limit of jurisdiction of the lord mayor. Many years ago -it was customary for that official after his installation to ride out -there and fling a dart into the waters of the bay, as a symbol of his -right of admiralty; but these old-fashioned demonstrations of power and -prerogative have been abandoned for stupid parades and long speeches. - -Just before entering Blackrock the tramway passes the entrance of a -lovely estate christened "Frascati," after a favorite resort of Rome. It -formerly belonged to the Duke of Leinster, and was an early seat of the -Kildare family, and one of the strategic rendezvous of the Geraldines, -for two centuries the strongest clan in Ireland. Frascati has a pathetic -interest to every one, and particularly to all Irish patriots, because -for several years it was the home of Lord Edward Fitzgerald and Pamela, -his mysterious French bride. It was there they spent their honeymoon and -there he left that fascinating little person while he was off on -political missions preparing for the Revolution of 1798. Her letters, -full of domestic details and loving prattle, written during this period, -have been preserved, and give us a charming impression of the character -of a woman who suffered much for the cause of Irish liberty, even -poverty and shame. - -Edward Fitzgerald was a brother of the Duke of Leinster and the Earl of -Kildare, an amiable, high-minded, warm-hearted, gallant fellow of -learning and culture and fine manners. He served as a major in the -British forces during the American Revolution, and for a time was an -aid-de-camp on the staff of Lord Howe. He was dismissed from the British -army, however, for active sympathy with the French Revolution, went to -France, and took refuge among the friends he had made there. There he -met and married Anne Syms, better known as "Pamela," a woman of great -personal and mental attractions, whose origin was involved in a mystery -that was never revealed, and concerning whom many romantic stories have -been written and told. It is generally believed that she was an -illegitimate daughter of Philippe Égalité, Duke of Orleans, sometimes -called "Philip the Handsome," by an Irish woman named Syms, and was, -therefore, a half-sister of King Louis Philippe of France. By Edward -Fitzgerald she had three children: Edward Fitzgerald, who was an officer -in the British army; Pamela, who became the wife of Sir Guy Campbell; -and Lucy, who became the wife of Captain Lyon of the Royal Navy. Several -years after Fitzgerald's tragic end she married John Pitcairn, an -American, with whom she came to the United States, and lived in -Philadelphia until her death in 1831. - -While he was in Paris Lord Edward met Wolfe Tone, the leader of the -Revolution of 1798, Arthur O'Connor, Thomas Addis Emmet, an elder -brother of Robert Emmet, and other fellow countrymen, who were -conspiring with the French directoire for an attack upon Ireland. He -joined the movement with great earnestness and enthusiasm, and finally -arranged with the French government to send a fleet of forty-three -vessels with fifteen thousand troops under General Hoche, Wolfe Tone -being attached to the commander's staff, to attack the Irish coast -simultaneously with an uprising of the people. Ireland was taken by -surprise and thrown into a panic, but Providence intervened. A violent -gale arose, the landing was postponed, the French fleet became -separated, and each vessel found its way back to the Continent. - -Lord Edward remained in France until March, 1798, when he returned to -Dublin, was betrayed by a man named Mangan, and a guard of soldiers was -sent to arrest him in 151 Thomas Street, just below the Bank of Ireland. -A tablet with an inscription now marks the house. There was a desperate -struggle, in which the captain of the guards was killed by Lord Edward, -and the latter received a bullet in the shoulder, from which he died in -prison a few days later at the age of thirty-two. As everybody knows, -the rebellion was a failure, and nearly all the other leaders were -captured and executed. Wolfe Tone was betrayed by an old school friend -and sentenced to be shot. He tried to kill himself in prison. The -wound, though fatal, was not immediately so, and he lay ill for several -months before death rescued him. Poor Pamela lived in poverty and -distress for several years before she was able to return to her friends -in France. "Frascati," her home, now belongs to a prosperous Dublin -tradesman. - -A little farther down on the shore of the bay is a monument marking the -spot where the transport _Rochdale_, carrying the entire Ninety-seventh -Regiment of Foot, went ashore a hundred years ago, and the names of an -entire regiment, officers and men, were instantly erased from the -British army list. Since then an artificial harbor has been inclosed by -long breakwaters of masonry, giving a place of refuge for ships in -distress. - -The tram line terminates in a pretty and picturesque village, called -Dalkey, which was a medieval stronghold and the scene of many fierce -fights, first between the earls of the Pale of Dublin and invading -Danes, and after that with the pirates who haunted this coast for a -century. It was a Danish settlement for several centuries, and afterward -the most important outpost of Dublin, defended by seven great castles, -three of which still remain in partial ruins. One of them is now -remodeled for use as a town hall. They are imposing piles of masonry, -and thick mats of ivy conceal the ancient wounds. - -We took an "outside car" at the end of the tram line at Dalkey to drive -around the shore of the bay, which the driver assured us was the most -beautiful in the world and even surpassed the Bay of Naples, which it is -said to resemble, and for that reason many of the names are the same. -The resemblance might possibly be detected by a person with a vigorous -imagination. Killiney Bay, however, is a lovely sheet of water, -surrounded by high bluffs that are clad in June with glowing garments of -gorse and hawthorn. The first is a low bush which has a brilliant yellow -flower, and the hawthorn trees are as white as banks of snow. The land -is divided into meadows and pastures on the slopes by hedges of -hawthorn, and the turf is concealed by millions of buttercups as yellow -as gold. It is a rocky coast. Rugged crags that break out give a stern -expression to the picture, and sometimes rise a hundred feet or more in -frowning precipices of black granite. - -Here and there the towers of a castle or the chimneys of a villa arise -from banks of foliage, and, perched along the bluff above the seashore, -like the chalets of Switzerland, are comfortable cottages and mansions -in which rich people from Dublin dwell. Clinging to the side of the -bluff and protected by a stone wall is a splendid roadway encircling the -entire bay, quite as beautiful, although on a smaller scale, as the -Corniche road from Nice to Monte Carlo. The deep blue of the water, the -vivid green of the foliage, which seems more pronounced in Ireland than -anywhere I have ever been, the great white banks of hawthorn, the yellow -of the buttercups and the gorse give a brilliancy to the landscape that -does not appear anywhere on the Riviera or anywhere else I know. - -The winding road with this wonderful panorama always before you leads -finally through a glen into a park named after the late Queen -Victoria,--a wild stretch of rocky woodland and pasture, which in -ancient days was one of the principal meeting places of the Druids, and -it was well chosen. The land was purchased by subscription to -commemorate the queen's jubilee in 1897, and has been thrown open to the -public ever since. From the number of people who are present every -Sunday afternoon one would think the money was well invested. - -A winding path leads to the summit, which is cleared of trees, and in -the center a shaft of stone rises about sixty feet, which, the -inscription tells us in quaint and laconic manner, was erected by John -Mapas, Esquire, June, 1742, in order to give employment to his less -fortunate neighbors, "last year being hard with the poor." A hundred -yards distant is a round, conical tower marked, "Mont Mapas." Nobody -seems to know who erected it or what it is for. And there is a pyramid -of seven tiers of stone thirty feet square at the base and eighteen feet -high, with a flat stone at the top. - -There is a monument to mark the spot where the Duke of Dorset was killed -by being thrown from his horse in 1815, and what is more interesting, -four Druid judgment seats, formed of rough granite blocks about twelve -feet long, two feet high, and three and a half feet wide at the top. -They are situated in pairs some distance from each other, and tradition -says that the Druid chiefs in prehistoric times sat in judgment upon -them to settle disputes between their people and to receive petitions -from the members of their tribes. Of course, we know that Ireland was -held by the Druids once, and it is very certain that they could not have -found a more appropriate or a lovelier place than this for their -assemblies. - -We took our luncheon at the Washington Inn at Dalkey, where a large and -familiar engraving of George Washington, a picture of Sulgrave Manor, -the English home of the Washingtons, a pedigree of the family, and a -representation of its coat of arms, showing its development into the -Stars and Stripes, hung upon the wall. I asked the landlady the whys and -wherefores of all this, and she told me that her name is Martha -Washington and that she is very proud of it. Her ancestors came from -Sulgrave, where they trace their relationship to the Father of our -Country. - -Another trolley line, with cars marked "Howth" (pronounced Ho-th), -starting from the same place, Nelson's Pillar, on Sackville Street, will -take you entirely around the great island hill at the north entrance of -the harbor of Dublin and for a mile or two on the shore of the Irish -Sea. For the first fifteen or twenty minutes the car runs through the -busy streets of the city, past the Amiens railway station, which, a -friendly priest who occupied the adjoining seat told me, occupies the -site of the house in which Charles Lever wrote "Harry Lorrequer," -"Charles O'Malley," and other famous novels, and the good father sighed -when he said that the reckless gayety and the jolly folks that Lever -painted with his pen existed no longer. He was a most interesting -companion was this friendly priest, and talked incessantly of the scenes -and associations through which our little journey led. - -We passed a monumental gate supported by two classic columns. One of -them was marked in large letters "Deo Duce" and the other "Ferro -Comitante" (With God for my guide and a sword by my side), which, he -told me, was the motto upon the coat of arms of the great Lord -Charlemont, who had taken so active a part in the history of Ireland. It -was a famous family, he said, although the present earls are decadents -and have no place in public affairs. - -This ancient family seat, called "Marino," was built at a tremendous -cost by a _dilettante_ earl who never allowed his expenditures to -trouble him, but left the anxiety entirely to his creditors. The -interior of the villa at the time it was built was the perfection of art -and luxury. The floors, the ceilings, and the wainscoting were of -mosaic. The walls were hung with the finest Irish poplin and decorated -by the most noted artists of the time. The villa has been the scene of -ghastly carousals and assemblies of the finest intellects in Ireland. -The grave and the gay have gathered and dined beneath its roof, but the -estate was sacrificed to the extravagance of the family, and its -splendor, somewhat tarnished and rusty, to be sure, is now enjoyed by -the students of the Christian Brothers, who occupy the beautiful villa -for a school. - -On one side of the car line high walls shut out to the ordinary -passer-by the beauties they are intended to protect, but from the top of -the tram cars any one can share them for "tuppence." On the other side -is the water, the Bay of Dublin, and, running parallel with the shore, -is a long spit of land called the North Bull, which was formerly a -terrible menace to the commerce of the coast. Nearly every winter's gale -sent a ship or two to destruction, and the bodies of hundreds of poor -seamen have been washed up where the children are now playing in the -sand. Here and there the skeletons of dead vessels may yet be seen, but -the North Bull is no longer dangerous. Modern devices protect -navigation, and in the midst of the heather and the glowing yellow gorse -golf links have been laid out and a clubhouse has been erected, -surrounded by lilacs, laburnums, and hawthorns, now in the full glory of -their bloom. It is only twenty minutes' ride by street car from the -center of Dublin, and the business men can come out here to spend the -long summer evenings at their sport. - -[Illustration: BAILEY LIGHT AT HOWTH, MOUTH OF DUBLIN BAY] - -A little farther on is a beautiful mansion built in 1835 upon the site -and with the materials of Clontarf Castle, one of the oldest and most -famous within the English Pale--which was an area sixty miles long and -thirty miles wide around the city of Dublin. The castle originally -belonged to the Knights Templar, and from them passed to the Knights of -St. John. In 1541 it was surrendered to the crown by Sir John Rawson, -prior of Kilmainham, who was created Viscount of Clontarf as -compensation. - -The famous battle of Clontarf, the final struggle between Christianity -and heathenism on the soil of Ireland, was fought here on Good Friday in -the year 1014 between the Danes under Sigtryg, the Viking, and the Irish -under Brian Boru. Eight thousand men were slain on one side and four -thousand on the other, including every prominent chief. The Irish were -victorious, and, although the Danes were not immediately driven from the -island, it was the end of their domination. They came in a thousand -boats all the way from Denmark, from Scotland, the Orkneys, and from the -many islands of the north, and when their leaders were killed they fled -to the water to regain their ships, which lay at anchor or were beached -on the shore of Dublin Bay. The Irish warriors followed and continued to -slay them until the sea was crimson with heathen blood. - -Brian Boru was not a myth, although we commonly associate him with fairy -tales. He was the real thing, and it is often said that he was the only -Irishman that ever did rule successfully over all Ireland. He was the -first of the O'Briens and was King of Munster. His early career was very -much like that of Alfred the Great, who lived but a short time before -him in the middle of the ninth century, and he was not only the greatest -warrior, but the greatest lawgiver and executive, and the greatest -benefactor of his native country in the semi-savage days. His rival was -Malachi the Great, the first of the O'Neills, who became king of Meath -in 980 and reigned at Tara. To keep the peace Brian Boru and Malachi -agreed to divide Ireland between them; but they did not get along well -together, and Brian drove Malachi from his capital far into the north. -Malachi finally submitted, and then all Ireland, for the first time in -its history, was at peace under a single monarch for nearly forty years. - -Brian devoted himself to the development of the industries, the -encouragement of agriculture, and the education of the people. He made -wise laws and enforced them with justice. He founded schools and -colleges. He encouraged art and science, he built roads in every -direction, and he gave the distracted country the blessings of peace and -prosperity. Instead of fighting among themselves, the people gave their -attention to farming, cattle-breeding, trade and manufacturing, -literature and the polite arts, and the historians say that another -twenty years of Brian's reign would have changed the entire history of -the country. Rare Tom Moore has given us a picture of Ireland in those -days, when, according to his verses, a beautiful young lady, "Rich and -rare were the gems she wore," traversed the entire country, from north -to south and from east to west, without being molested. - -When Brian became an old man, Mailmora, king of Leinster, conspired with -the Danes, the Manxmen, the chiefs of the Orkneys, and the Scots to -overthrow him. Sigtryg of the Silken Beard arranged with them to -consolidate their forces to overcome the Irish. Sigurd, Earl of Orkney, -brought an army ten thousand strong. Broder, the great Viking of the -Isle of Man, brought a fleet of two hundred ships and ten thousand men, -covered with mail from head to foot, to meet the Irish, who always -fought in tunics. Broder had once been a Christian, but had fallen from -grace. He was the tallest and the strongest man of his time. His hair -was so long that he had to tuck it under his belt. He wore a coat of -mail "on which no steele could bite," and he had "no reverence for God -or for man, for church or sanctuary." - -The venerable Brian Boru, then seventy-three years of age, was camped in -what is now Phoenix Park, surrounded by twenty thousand warriors -representing the different Irish clans. His sons prevailed upon him not -to engage in the battle, and he gave the command to his son Morrough. -But he led the column to the Hill of Clontarf on the morning of Good -Friday, and when the invaders were in plain sight Brian Boru, holding -aloft a crucifix, rode from rank to rank reminding his men that on that -day their Lord had died for them, and exhorting them to smite the -heathen hip and thigh for their religion and their homes. Then, giving -the signal for the onset, he withdrew to his tent at the top of the -hill, where he could observe the conflict. - -Battles in those days were a series of hand-to-hand encounters. The -commanders selected each other for single combat. The fighting extended -for two miles along the shores of the Bay of Dublin, and human beings -were cut down like stalks of corn. The aged king remained in his tent -engaged in earnest prayer for victory while the air was filled with the -clash of steel, and the Danes and his own soldiers were dying by -thousands around him. Toward nightfall the heathen gave way and began to -retreat. Their commanders were all slain or desperately wounded. Brian's -grandson, Thorlough, smote the Earl of Orkney with his battle-axe and -cleft his head down as far as his neck. Broder, the great Viking, -desperately wounded, was flying from the field when he recognized Brian -of the Long Beard at the door of his tent. He rushed upon the old man -with a double-edged battle-axe. Brian seized his trusty sword and they -struck together. Brian's head was amputated and Broder's legs, one at -the knee and the other from the ankle. At sunset when they returned from -the battle, Brian's servants found their king dead and Broder stretched -by his side. - -The body of Brian and that of his son Morrough were conveyed with great -solemnity to Armagh and laid at rest in the cathedral, but their tombs -have disappeared. The funeral ceremonies lasted for a fortnight, and all -Ireland was filled with lamentation. Every petty chief and prince in the -island tried to grasp the power. As the old song runs-- - - "Each man ruled his own tribe, - But no man ruled Erin." - -And that condition continued for a century and a half, all Ireland being -distracted by the rivalries of the several chiefs, the O'Briens, the -O'Neills, the O'Connors, and the O'Loughlins. - -That part of the battleground lying on the shore of the bay has been -built over, and behind it the land has been divided into small country -places where the rich men of Dublin spend their idle hours. Their homes -are encircled with high fences, and are divided by a maze of roads and -lanes concealed by canopies of green foliage that overhangs the walls. - -A little farther on are the ruins of a church surrounded by a silent -battalion of gravestones. It was the Abbey of Kilbarrack, and one of the -tombstones, badly defaced, marks the burial place of Francis Higgins, a -detested government spy who betrayed Lord Edward Fitzgerald to the -government in the insurrection of 1798. He is known as "The Sham -Squire," because for a time he succeeded in passing himself off as a -country gentleman of wealth and was married to a lady of good family. -When the fraud was detected he was sent to jail, and she died of shame -and mortification. Being boycotted by all honorable men, he became a spy -and informer, and popular hatred pursued him to the graveyard, which had -to be watched because the people resented his burial in consecrated -ground and would have thrown his body into the bay. - -The car line follows the curves of the coast down to the shore of the -Irish Sea, where a monstrous mass of rocks, covered with heather and -rhododendrons and gorse, now as yellow as gold, rises five hundred or -six hundred feet, with here and there a dense mass of foliage. It is -known as the Hill of Howth, and is considered one of the most -picturesque places in Ireland. At its foot is the village of Howth, and -on either side are the ruins of ancient strongholds, located so as to -command the entrance to the harbor. - -The title of the Earl of Howth dates back to 1177, and was bestowed in -battle. It has been held honorably by the Lawrence family, one of the -oldest in Ireland. They won their name and their lands by the sword. -The founder of the house was Amory Tristam, a Norman adventurer, who -followed Strongbow to the conquest of Ireland, and has been immortalized -in Wagner's opera, "Tristam and Isolde." While Tristam, loyal knight and -true, was attending a red-haired Irish princess to her destined husband, -the King of Cornwall, they drank by mistake a love potion which bound -them forever in a frenzied romance. It ended with Tristam dying in his -castle and Isolde coming over the sea to perish like Juliet upon her -husband's lifeless form. - -Amory Tristam assumed the name of St. Lawrence, because of a great -victory that he won over the Danes on the anniversary of that saint; and -Howth Castle has been the seat of the family from the beginning. A long -line of overlords lie under the shadow of a ruined old abbey, and the -present earl, William Ulick Tristam St. Lawrence, must join them soon, -because he is more than eighty years of age. He was a member of -parliament in his younger days, succeeded to the earldom in 1874, and -until he became too feeble was a famous sport. His son and heir, Thomas -Tristam St. Lawrence, is a man of fifty, who married the daughter of -Benjamin Lee Guinness, the great brewer of Dublin, and inherited many -millions from her father. - -Many interesting legends are told of the hill and the Castle of Howth -and of events that have occurred during the eight hundred years since it -became a center of activity. In the reign of Queen Elizabeth, the -Princess of Connaught, Grace O'Malley, landed at Howth on her return -from England and found the gates of the castle closed. The warder -refused her entrance because the family were at dinner. Indignant at -this breach of hospitality she returned to her ships, and meeting on the -way the heir of the house, she picked him up and carried him off to -Mayo, where she held him until she had obtained a pledge from the earls -of Howth that they would never again close the doors of their castle -against hungry travelers. And they have faithfully kept the vow. - -The Howth family holds the almost unique distinction in Ireland of -perpetual loyalty to the English crown. - -Another trolley line runs out to Donnybrook, the scene of the famous -fair, which was abolished, however, nearly one hundred years ago, even -before the time of Sir Walter Scott's visit to Ireland in 1825, for he -says: "We dined at Walter's, and in the evening drove to Donnybrook--the -scene of the noisy fair which is now dissolved and abolished. It was a -charming ride, thick with villas and all the insignia of ease and -opulence; in fact, not to be distinguished from the innumerable hosts of -jaunting cars plowing the fine road in every direction at a speed -apparently most cruel." Sir Walter's description holds good to-day. -Donnybrook is the most respectable and aristocratic of all the suburbs -of Dublin. The tract of land where the cattle fair was formerly held in -the fall of each year is still vacant and is used for a pasture. A -"merry-go-round," or a "whirl-about," as they call it here, was the only -diversion that we could find in the silent and orderly surroundings, but -every year in August on the adjoining land and reached by parallel roads -the Dublin horse show is held, and it is the great event of the season -socially, and otherwise. It brings over from London and other parts of -England large crowds of fashionable people, it draws the sporting -element from every part of the kingdom, and all Ireland is represented. - -Donnybrook, originally Dombenach Broc, in Gaelic, is a small but rapid -stream, which comes down from the hills of Wicklow and empties into the -Bay of Dublin. The cattle-dealers of Ireland for two hundred years used -to meet upon its banks for the sale, exchange, and exhibition of animals -for eight days in the month of August annually, and drew around them -saloon and restaurant keepers, peddlers of every sort, and shopkeepers, -who went out from Dublin with stocks of goods and exposed them as a -temptation to the men who had sold their cattle and had the money in -their pockets. In addition to the tradesmen, itinerant shows gathered to -entertain the ranchmen, strolling players, jugglers, Irish bards with -harps and songs, bagpipes, and other public entertainers made it their -rendezvous. Naturally these attractions called together the lads and -the lasses, who flirted, danced to the music, and had a good time -generally. - - "Donnybrook capers, that bothered the vapors, - And drove dull care away." - -But the entertainments were not entirely innocent, and the fair finally -became such a scene of disorder, thievery, and murder that the -authorities were compelled to abolish the annual festivities. It -attracted all the toughs and roughs and the desperate characters in -Ireland, and the old rhyme says: - - "Such crowding and jumbling, - And leaping and tumbling, - And kissing and grumbling, - And drinking and swearing, - And stabbing and tearing, - And coaxing and snaring, - And scrambling and winning, - And fighting and flinging, - And fiddling and singing." - -More misery and madness, more crime and unhappiness, more devilment and -debauchery, vice, and treachery was crowded into that little space for a -fortnight annually than might have occurred during an entire year in any -country of Europe. In those days fighting was a common pastime. But the -"broth of a boy" with his "shillelah" of black bog thorn wood, is no -longer seen dragging his coat over the ground at Donnybrook and inviting -any gentleman present to step on the tail of that garment. Those days, -as I say, are over, and Dublin is one of the most orderly cities on -earth, except for the drunkenness. - - - - - IX - - THE LANDLORDS AND THE LANDLESS - - -The population of Ireland by the census of 1901 was 4,450,456, a falling -off of 248,204 in ten years since the previous census. In 1848, before -the great famine, the population was 8,295,000, which shows that it has -decreased nearly one-half since that time, during the last sixty years. - -The area of Ireland is 20,157,557 acres, including bog and mountain. Of -this area only 2,357,530 acres are under the plow, 14,712,849 acres are -devoted to hay and pasture, of which it is estimated that 12,000,000 -acres could be cultivated to crops. But it is a question whether such a -thing would be desirable, considering the great demand and the high -price for hay and cattle, beef and mutton. It would give employment to a -large number of people if 12,000,000 acres more were plowed and planted, -no doubt, but the experts assert that the profits on hay and cattle are -larger than on grain and potatoes. - -Next to hay, the largest area, something more than 1,000,000 acres, is -planted to oats and only 590,000 acres to potatoes, which is surprising -when you consider that potatoes are the principal food of the Irish -peasant, and, as some one has remarked, "are his food and drink and -clothing." - -William F. Bailey, one of the gentlemen intrusted with the work of -settling the land question and distributing the population of the island -more evenly than at present, estimates that thirty acres of average land -in Ireland is necessary to support a family, but the tax returns show -that the 20,000,000 acres are divided among 68,716 owners; that is, one -person in sixty-four is a landowner, with an average of 300 acres each, -counting men, women, and children, although that is not a fair basis of -calculation in Ireland, because so many of the young and middle-aged -people emigrate and leave more than a natural proportion of old men and -young children on the island. - -The tax returns show that the land in 1907 was actually divided among -the 68,716 owners as follows: - - Owning 100,000 acres or more 3 - Between 50,000 and 100,000 16 - Between 20,000 and 50,000 90 - Between 10,000 and 20,000 185 - Between 5,000 and 10,000 452 - Between 2,000 and 5,000 1,198 - Between 1,000 and 2,000 1,803 - Between 500 and 1,000 2,716 - Between 100 and 500 7,989 - Between 50 and 100 3,479 - Between 10 and 50 7,746 - Between 1 and 10 acres 6,892 - -The changes in the size of Irish farms has been remarkable. In 1841, 81 -per cent of the holdings were less than ten acres. To-day, as you will -see by the table, out of 68,000 farms, only 6,892 are of ten acres and -less. - -The following is a list of Irish landlords who owned more than 30,000 -acres each, and the average annual rentals collected from their tenants -prior to the passage of the Wyndham Land Act of 1903, which authorizes -the purchase with government funds of their estates, and the division -into small farms for the tenants who occupied them: - - Annual - Acres Revenue - - Law Life Assurance Company 165,804 £6,384 - Marquess of Lansdowne 123,634 32,412 - Marquess of Sligo 122,902 16,018 - Marquess of Downshire 107,828 86,269 - Earl of Kenmore 105,359 26,951 - Lord Ventry 91,505 15,282 - Earl Fitzwilliam 89,468 45,568 - Viscount Dillon 78,898 16,933 - Sir Roger W.H. Palmer 74,857 12,829 - Earl of Bantry 73,360 11,628 - Duke of Leinster 71,581 48,841 - Marquess of Waterford 71,056 33,412 - Lord O'Neil 65,857 45,308 - Marquess of Hertford 63,265 75,699 - Earl of Lucan 59,478 12,194 - Earl of Kingston 54,165 32,565 - Duke of Abercorn 51,919 26,689 - Marquess of Clanricarde 51,006 18,472 - Sir Charles H. Bart Coote 48,739 18,691 - Viscount Powerscourt 47,551 13,563 - Marquess of Ely 47,076 22,126 - Earl of Bandon 46,129 20,438 - Trustees of Kilmorrey Estate 46,054 20,663 - Earl of Annesley 45,263 22,297 - Capt. Henry A. Herbert 42,939 9,695 - Thomas S. Carter 41,406 2,138 - Earl of Leitrim 39,382 9,890 - Lord Laconfield 39,048 16,558 - W.H. and John T. Massey 37,241 9,001 - Viscount Lismore 37,137 14,113 - Lord Stuart DeDecies 36,788 15,473 - Earl of Bessborough 36,372 22,649 - Viscount Clifden 36,166 19,705 - George Clive 35,513 836 - Marquess of Londonderry 34,949 30,617 - Lord of Antrim 34,493 12,600 - H.L. Barry 34,376 26,464 - Marquess of Conyngham 33,693 18,373 - Lord DeFreyne 33,120 12,719 - Earl of Devon 33,100 12,764 - Duke of Devonshire 32,776 19,441 - T.C. Bland 32,540 2,638 - Hon. H.L. King-Harman 32,531 17,090 - Sir George V. Colthurst 31,993 11,042 - Lord Annaly 31,826 13,740 - Marquess of Ormonde 31,794 17,457 - Earl of Erne 31,069 16,758 - Earl of Granard 30,725 15,816 - Lord Digby 30,627 13,409 - Earl of Caledon 30,502 15,725 - Earl of Arran 30,346 7,111 - Lord Farnham 30,191 19,347 - Earl of Enniskellen 30,146 13,883 - -The owners of other large tracts and the persons who own between 10,000 -and 30,000 acres are also nearly all noblemen. It would seem that -titles of nobility and large estates go together over here. That is the -rule in other countries, and is perfectly natural, because a poor man -has no use for a title of nobility and a rich man is usually anxious to -get one. - -A peer has just as much right to own land as anybody, and the complaints -heard in Ireland are not on account of the rank or the station of the -landlords, but because of their neglect of their interests and their -tenants, especially because most of them do not spend the incomes from -their estates in making improvements or for the benefit of their own -people; they do not spend it in Ireland, but reside in London most of -the time and spend the money there, where the people who earn it receive -no benefit from it directly or indirectly. It is unnecessary to discuss -the evils of large estates. They are too numerous to mention, especially -when they are owned by people who live outside of the country. That is -the great obstacle to the development of Mexico, where millions of acres -in large tracts, granted to Spanish grandees before independence, still -remain in the ownership of their descendants, who live in Spain or -Paris, and spend the revenues there. It is true, also, of Russia, -Poland, Austria, and of many other countries, and to a certain extent of -Cuba, where a number of the valuable and productive plantations belong -to families who are living in Spain, Paris, or New York, and never even -visit them. - -A few years ago, by order of Parliament, an investigation was made to -ascertain the habits of the large Irish landowners in connection with -their estates, and the following table shows the result: - - Acres Rents - Landlords owned collected - - Resident on or near the property 5,589 8,880,549 £4,718,497 - Residing elsewhere in Ireland, - occasionally on property 377 852,818 371,123 - Residing elsewhere in Ireland 4,465 4,362,446 2,128,220 - Residing out of Ireland but - occasionally on property 180 1,368,347 601,072 - Never resident in Ireland 1,443 3,145,514 1,538,071 - Owned by charitable institutions or - corporations, 161 584,327 234,678 - Not ascertained 1,350 615,308 331,633 - -No country ever suffered so much from absentee landlordism as Ireland, -and many great estates here have been entirely neglected, or practically -abandoned and allowed to go to ruin by the owners who intrusted them to -dishonest or incompetent managers and took no interest in their own -property. No one can blame the tenants upon such estates for their -enmity and resentment toward the proprietors, or condemn them for their -refusal to pay rent when they received very little or nothing in return. -But the system in Ireland has been very much improved of late years by -various acts of parliament, and many people think that the tenants now -have the advantage in every respect. Fifty years ago the landlord was -the owner and autocrat of the soil and everything that stood upon it. -The tenant had no legal rights beyond what was written down in his -lease, and when that expired the landlord could raise or lower his rent -or drive him off the land at pleasure. - -Nearly every one of the peers who has sold his estates in Ireland under -the land act has taken the cash and has gone to London to live, and if -home rule is ever granted to the Irish people there will be little room -left for those who remain. Most of the Irish peers spend the greater -part of their time in London. Some of them never come to Ireland at all -except for the shooting season or horse show. Several prominent English -peers have estates in Ireland inherited from ancestors who have -intermarried with the Irish nobility. The Duke of Devonshire, for -example, owns one of the largest and finest estates in the kingdom at -Lismore, a few miles north of Cork. The late duke, who died in 1907, -took a great interest in the property and spent a great deal of time -there. - -Forcible evictions are things of the past. Several years ago the demands -for "The Three Fs"--free sale, fair rent, and fixed tenure--were -complied with, and to-day the farms in Ireland are subject to what is -called "a dual ownership," peculiar to this country. No landlord can rob -a tenant any longer. Disputes concerning rent are now settled by a -tribunal which takes all the circumstances into consideration and -decides upon the equities rather than the technicalities of the case. -This has revolutionized the land system of Ireland, and by a succession -of acts of parliament during the past few years the government has gone -a great way toward equalizing ownership and creating a nation of peasant -proprietors, which, according to their ideas over here, is the ideal -condition. - -During the last quarter of a century from six thousand to eight thousand -farmers have been evicted from farms in Ireland because they refused or -were unable or neglected to pay their rent. Some of them have remained -in the neighborhood and have squatted where they could, and waited their -chance to recover their holdings; others have emigrated to America; -others have gone into different parts of Ireland; others have engaged in -business of various sorts. Between five thousand and six thousand have -already applied for restoration under the Act of 1907, most of them -through the agency of the United Irish League. Of these, 1,595 families -had been restored up to July, 1908, most of them to the actual farms -from which they were expelled, not as tenants, however, for they will -never be asked to pay any more rent, but as the owners of the property -and improvements, purchased for them by the government, with money to be -repaid, not by them unless they choose to do so, but by their posterity -in the year 1975, or thereabouts. The only financial obligation imposed -upon them is to pay an interest of 3-1/2; per cent upon the purchase -money, which has been borrowed by the government upon bonds running for -sixty-eight years, at 3 per cent interest. The additional one-half per -cent goes into a sinking fund to pay the bonds at maturity. - -About 75 per cent of the claims that have been filed under the Evicted -Tenants Act have been genuine; the remainder are apparently fraudulent -or in doubt, and some of those that have been already allowed are -questionable. I heard of a case in which a tenant who was evicted in -1889 for refusal to pay his rent was restored to his old home under -rather peculiar circumstances. His misfortunes were voluntary, and due -to political reasons rather than from the lack of means, and when he was -thrown off his farm he went into business as a cattle broker and became -rich. But, in common with his former neighbors, he filed his claims -under the act, was restored to his old home, and the generous agents of -the estates commission bought a couple of cows, a few sheep, and hogs -from his own pastures, paid him for them, and then gave them to him. He -is now occupying the place and cultivating it by hired labor, and will -be asked to refund the money the government has advanced for him in the -year 1975. - -In the application of the provisions of the act no distinction is made -between those who were evicted because of their poverty and those for -political reasons. About one thousand evictions were the result of what -is known as the "Plan of Campaign" adopted in 1887, when the National -League determined to force the issue and organized a general strike -among the farmers against the payment of rent upon certain estates -selected because their landlords were habitual absentees, who spent the -revenues they derived from their estates outside of Ireland and were -oppressive to their tenants and generally offensive. As a rule, the -tenants paid half a year's rent to the agents of the league for a war -fund, so far as they were able. Most of them were able to pay, although -there was a great deal of suffering and privation among about a thousand -families who were thrown out of their homes during one land war which -lasted for two or three years. Practically all of them have already been -restored to their former farms. - -In 1901 another land war was inaugurated, under the direction of Dennis -Johnston and John Fitzgibbons of the United Irish League, in Roscommon -and neighboring counties, and a large number of tenants who had -voluntarily agreed not to pay their rents were thrown off their farms as -voluntary martyrs in a campaign which finally resulted in the enactment -of the act of 1907, which was prepared and introduced into parliament by -George Wyndham, chief secretary for Ireland under the late conservative -government. This act authorizes the estates commission having in charge -the administration of the Land Act of 1903 to acquire by force if -necessary eighty thousand acres of land wherever they consider it -expedient, to be sold under mortgages of sixty-eight years at 3-1/2; per -cent interest to families who have been evicted from their former -homes. The commissioners are required to investigate the claims of those -who have been evicted, through their staff of inspectors, and if found -genuine to serve notice upon the owner to vacate the farms from which -they were evicted within a certain time. The landlord has the right of -appeal, but every one of the owners of lands from which tenants were -evicted has voluntarily consented to their restoration except the -Marquess of Clanricarde, and a Mrs. Lewis who has a large estate in -County Galway and has been one of the most vindictive and oppressive of -all the landlords. She is a woman of very determined character, and will -not even answer letters addressed to her by the officials of the -government. - -The Marquess of Clanricarde is nearly eighty years old, very eccentric, -a miser, dresses very shabbily, lives like a recluse and pays no bills. -He has visited his Irish estates but once since he inherited them in -1874, He was in the diplomatic service as a young man during the -'fifties, and at one time was a member of parliament. His name is Hubert -George de Burg Canning, Marquess of Clanricarde, Viscount Burke and -Baron Dunkellin, and he has several other titles, but has no family--a -childless widower. - -The Clanricarde estates lie directly west from Dublin in Galway County -and were obtained by his ancestor, William FitzAnselm de Burg, the -founder of the Burke family, under a grant from Henry I., and he founded -the town of Galway. To this day the whole province of Connaught is -dotted with the ruined castles of the De Burg family, monuments of four -or five centuries of uninterrupted fighting with the O'Neills, the -O'Donnells, the O'Flahertys, the O'Connors, and other powerful clans in -the early history of Ireland. The battle of Knockdoe, fought in the -fourteenth century between an undisciplined horde of native clansmen -under the Earl of Clanricarde, was provoked by an insult he offered to -his wife. She was the daughter of Gerald Fitzgerald the Great, Earl of -Kildare, and her affectionate father in vengeance attacked his -son-in-law with a disciplined force loaned him by his neighbors, the -lords of the Pale of Dublin. It is said that eight thousand dead bodies -were left upon the field. Those were strenuous days, and the earls of -Clanricarde have been reckoned among the fiercest fighters from the time -they came over from England in the fourteenth century. Sometimes they -have been on one side and sometimes on the other, but like most genuine -Irishmen, they have usually been "agin the government," whatever, policy -it represented. There have been several earnest patriots in the line. An -old Irish ballad begins with the line, "Glory guards Clanricarde's -grave!" but the present earl is not the one referred to. - -The late earl was very popular with his tenants, and so liberal and -lenient was he, according to the gossip, that they got into bad habits, -and when the present earl came into the property in 1874 he pulled them -up very sharply and demanded a prompt and full payment of all their -obligations. Being unaccustomed to such stern measures, they were -resentful, and a quarrel began which has lasted until now, and -Clanricarde, convinced that he has right and justice on his side, has -used the mailed hand. There have been more trouble and disturbance upon -his estates than upon any other in Ireland. Every one of his tenants has -been evicted, and sometimes a succession of them, and their farms have -been let to what are called "planters,"--a term used in Ireland to -describe families imported from a distance and planted upon land which -no person in the neighborhood will rent because the previous tenant has -been evicted from it. Every man on the Clanricarde estates is a -"planter." After the passage of the act of 1907 the estates -commissioners requested him to sell his entire holding under the act of -1903, but he not only rejected the proposition, but has declined even to -discuss the subject, and has maintained that uncompromising attitude -from the beginning, an embittered, relentless, vindictive old man. - -[Illustration: PORTUMNA CASTLE, COUNTY GALWAY; THE SEAT OF THE EARL OF -CLANRICARDE] - -When the commission undertook to apply the compulsory clause of the -Evicted Tenants Act and published the notice in the _Dublin Gazette_, -the earl filed a protest. Mr. Justice Wiley of the Lower Court sustained -the commission, but the Court of Appeals, composed of twelve judges, -unanimously reversed the decision and decided that the estates -commission has no power to forcibly dispossess any _bona fide_ "planter" -from land already under lease. - -This decision technically justified the position that the earl has -taken, and it applies to the estates of Mrs. Lewis also, so that the -commissioners cannot go any farther in their work of restoring the -evicted tenants upon those two properties. As soon as the decision was -rendered a bill was introduced in parliament confiscating the entire -Clanricarde estates. It is not expected to pass, but was intended to -advertise the situation and create public opinion. The government, -however, took the matter promptly in hand, and the Earl of Crewe -introduced a bill authorizing the estates commissioners to take by -force, after the usual legal proceedings, any occupied land they may -think necessary and proper for the restoration of evicted tenants, -provided they can obtain the consent of the occupant. This act was -passed, and notice was immediately given in the _Dublin Gazette_ that -the estates commissioners intend, under the Evicted Tenants Act, to -acquire compulsorily upwards of eighteen hundred acres of land on the -estate of Lord Clanricarde in County Galway. This means that the owner -of the property is to have nothing to say about the matter, but a _bona -fide_ tenant, who in good faith is occupying a farm from which his -predecessor has been evicted, cannot be ejected without his consent. We -are familiar with the methods of "persuasion" that have been used for -years by the United Irish League and other patriotic organizations, and -it is entirely probable that they will prove sufficient in all cases -that will arise under this new provision. Therefore, as soon as the -proposed act is passed, the tenants upon the Clanricarde estates will be -looking for trouble. - -The Earl of Clanricarde cannot expect to live a great while longer. He -is already an infirm old man and his heir, Lord Sligo of Westport, a -nephew, is almost as old as he. Lord Sligo is one of the largest land -holders in Ireland. He owns 114,000 acres in the north, which is mostly -grazing land, and his tenants are miserably poor, living in squalid -hovels scattered over the estate. He does nothing for them, and exacts -the last halfpenny of his rent. His heir, who will soon come into both -the Clanricarde and Sligo estates, is his son, Lord Henry Ulick Browne, -of whom very little is known. He is fifty-eight years of age and lives -at Westport Castle, Westport, Ireland. As he has had the management of -much of his father's property for many years, it is generally believed -that he is responsible for the harsh policy that has been followed -toward the tenants, and that they can expect no better treatment when he -becomes their lawful lord. - -The British Parliament has published a return (No. Cd. 4093) covering -all the proceedings under the Act of April, 1907, to restore evicted -tenants in Ireland; giving particulars in each case in which an evicted -tenant, or a person nominated by the estates commissioners to be a -personal representative of the deceased evicted tenant, has with the -assistance of the commission been reinstated, either by the landlord or -by the estates commissioners, or provided with a new parcel of land -under the Land Purchase Act. - -It is a quarto pamphlet of forty-seven pages, and gives in fine type the -names of all the farmers in Ireland who have been evicted since 1876, -with the dates of the evictions, the area they formerly occupied, the -rent they formerly paid, the arrears of rent due at the time of the -eviction, the value of the property, the name of the landlord, the name -of the estate, the name of the town and the county, the date of -restoration, the price paid by the estates commissioners for each tract, -the valuation of the buildings and other improvements on the property, -and the compensation given to outgoing tenants who surrender their -holdings under the law, to those who were formerly evicted from them. - -This report shows that forty tenants have been restored to the -Blacker-Douglass estates in Armagh, thirty-two have been restored on the -Charlemont estates in the same county; forty-four of those evicted from -1887 to 1889 by Lord Massareene in County Meath have been restored, and -thirty-nine on the estate of the Marquess of Lansdowne in Queen's -County. On the estates of Sir G. Brooke, in Waterford, seventy-eight -families, evicted in 1887 and 1888, have been restored; twenty-six on -the estate of A.L. Tottenham, Leitrim; thirty-four on the Vandaleur -estates in Leitrim; thirty on the estates of C.W. Warden in County -Kerry; thirty-three on the estates of the Earl of Listowel, and similar -numbers elsewhere. - -So far as is known, every family in Ireland that has been evicted from a -farm during the last fifty years for non-payment of rent, or for -political reasons, has been restored wherever they are living, and, if -the head of the family at the time of the eviction is dead, his heirs -have been placed in possession of the place. And all this has been done -by the government at the expense of the taxpayers as a vindication of -the policy of the Irish Land League, the United Irish League, and other -organizations which have conducted the land wars. - -The restoration of the evicted tenants was not voluntary on the part of -the British government. It was forced upon the parliament by the Irish -agitators. In a debate on this act in the House of Lords, the Marquess -of Lansdowne, who had evicted a large number of tenants from his -estates, admitted that he and other landlords accepted the proposition -with great reluctance, and "only because the government had represented -to them very earnestly, indeed, that the measure formed an integral part -of a policy of pacification which they desired to bring about in -Ireland, and if the landlords took the responsibility of rejecting this -particular item, the entire programme was destined to failure. It is on -the strength of these representations," said the Marquess of Lansdowne, -"that we ask the House of Lords to agree to the restoration of all Irish -tenants who have been evicted at any time for political reasons as well -as for failure to pay their rents." - -The members of the National Party in Ireland concede this point -cheerfully. They willingly admit that they insisted upon the restoration -of all evicted tenants as the first and the most important proposition -in the programme of pacification in Ireland, and they agreed with the -Marquess of Lansdowne that it would have been a failure otherwise. It -should also be stated that all arrears of rent for which families have -been evicted from Irish farms have been cancelled, and the restored -tenants have become the actual owners of the land, the houses, and all -improvements. Instead of paying rent to a landlord, they become the -landlords themselves. The purchase money in every case has been advanced -by the government, and is to be repaid by the purchaser in sixty-eight -years with interest at three and one quarter per cent per annum. This -sum represents two and one-half per cent interest upon bonds issued to -raise the funds and three-fourths of one per cent for a sinking fund to -meet the bonds at maturity. - - - - - X - - MAYNOOTH COLLEGE AND CARTON HOUSE - - -Two-thirds and perhaps as many as three-fourths of the Roman Catholic -priests in Ireland were educated at the College of Maynooth, which turns -out one hundred and fifty or more earnest, zealous, able young clergymen -every year, and is the most conspicuous and influential educational -institution in Ireland. Comparatively few of the graduates go to the -United States. Dr. Hogan, professor of modern languages and literature, -explained that nearly all of the Irish priests who emigrated to America -were educated at the missionary college of All Hallows, near Dublin, for -the United States was until recently counted as a mission field by the -holy see and was under the jurisdiction of the prefect of the propaganda -of the holy faith at Rome. There are quite a number of Maynooth -graduates in America, and during the recent visit of Cardinal Logue they -gave a dinner in his honor in New York. - -Dr. Hogan took us through the buildings, which are spacious and surround -two large quadrangles. They are built of stone, four stories in height, -are entirely modern and fitted up with all the conveniences and -accessories that belong to an up-to-date institution of learning. The -chapel is also modern, built within the present generation and entirely -conventional. It is not large enough to accommodate all of the students, -and the underclass men attend mass elsewhere. - -Beyond the second quadrangle is a campus of seventy acres of lawn and -garden and grove, where five hundred young men were engaged in taking -their daily supply of fresh air and exercise when we passed through the -archway. Almost every kind of game was going on, from croquet to -football. There were several cricket contests in progress; others were -playing at hockey and basketball; others were on the track running, and -the lazy ones were lying stretched out on the velvet grass. There are -now five hundred and sixty-two students, nearly all of them theologs, -and one hundred and twenty graduated in 1908. They come chiefly from -Ireland, a few from Irish families in England, a few more from -Australia, but at present there is no representative of the United -States. When I asked a group of young men how they got along without any -Americans, one of them illustrated the quick wit of his race by replying -promptly: "We hope never to have them here, sir; they are altogether too -smart for us. If they keep on, the Americans will run the world." - -It costs very little to get an education at Maynooth. The fees are -small,--$20 for matriculation, $25 for tuition, $150 a year for board, -and other small fees for electric light, rent of furniture, etc., which -brings the total up to about $225 a year. There are two hundred and -seventy scholarships which have been founded by friends of the -institution and societies in the different parishes, and they pay an -average of $150 a year. There is a fine library with forty thousand -volumes, and a gymnasium and everything else that is needed. - -The ancient castle of Maynooth, built by the Earl of Kildare in 1427, -stands at the gateway of the college, and occupies the site of the -original stronghold of the family, built in 1176 by the first Maurice -Fitzgerald, who came over with the Strongbow at the time of the -Conquest. It has been a ruin since 1647, and a beautiful ruin it is--one -of the largest and most picturesque in the kingdom. - -[Illustration: MAYNOOTH COLLEGE COUNTY KILDARE] - -Until 1895, when the centenary of Maynooth College was celebrated, six -thousand priests and prelates of Irish birth had been educated within -the walls of that "mother of love, and of fear and of knowledge, and of -holy hope," as her alumni call her. And now the number exceeds -seventy-five hundred. Most of them have been, and those now living are -still, doing pastoral work in Ireland, and nearly two thousand of the -alumni have gone abroad into the United States, England, Scotland, -Australia, South Africa, and other English-speaking countries. During -the first three-quarters of the eighteenth century and for several -hundred years before Catholic education was prohibited in Ireland, but -it was not possible for the British authorities to prevent young men -from crossing the sea, and during the sixteenth and seventeenth -centuries a number of Irish colleges were founded in the Peninsula, in -France, and in Flanders, and there most of the Irish priests of that -long period received their education. It has been often asserted that -the Catholic faith might have disappeared in Ireland but for the ardent -piety and ambition of these young students, who found the preparation -they needed for parish work from the Irish faculties of divinity schools -on the Continent. In 1795, at the time Maynooth College was founded, -about four hundred young Irishmen were attending such institutions, and -in 1808 a printed report names twelve colleges with four hundred and -seventy-eight Irish students. - -Most of these institutions were in France, and they were closed and -desecrated by the French Revolution, which expelled their inmates, -profaned their altars, and confiscated their possessions. The Irish -bishops, in consequence, found themselves confronted with an alarming -situation. The foreign supply of priests was entirely cut off and the -laws of Parliament prohibited their education at home. In this extremity -they applied to the government, asking permission to found seminaries -for educating young men to discharge the duties of Roman Catholic -clergymen in the kingdom. William Pitt, then prime minister, was -persuaded that it was safer for England to grant this request than to -permit the young priests to imbibe the hatred of England and the -democratic and revolutionary principles that pervaded society on the -Continent. Edmund Burke and Earl Fitzwilliam acted in behalf of the -bishops, and the latter was instructed by the prime minister to -supervise the establishment of a new institution. Dr. Hussey, -confidential agent of the English government in Dublin, was appointed -the first president. He is described as a scholar, statesman, -diplomatist, and orator; he had a checkered and eventful career; he -undertook many things and excelled in them all. He was a fellow of the -Royal Society, a preacher of remarkable power, and the intimate friend -of such statesmen as Edmund Burke. He had the confidence of William Pitt -and was the trusted agent of princes and statesmen. He was a native of -County Meath, was educated at the ancient University of Salamanca of -Spain, and originally entered a Trappist monastery, but left it shortly -after and became chaplain of the Spanish embassy in London. The British -government, recognizing his ability and integrity, sent Dr. Hussey on -two confidential missions to the court of Spain, and rewarded his -success by granting him a liberal pension for life and appointing him as -confidential agent of the government in its negotiations with the -bishops, and afterward to be president of the first Catholic theological -seminary in Ireland. After two years at the head of the institution he -was appointed bishop of Waterford, where he remained until his death in -1803. - -Instruction was commenced in a private house belonging to an agent of -the Duke of Leinster. The foundations of a new building were laid on the -20th of April, 1796, and seven months later it was opened with fifty -students on the roll. The Duke of Leinster, although a Protestant, -anxious to have the college on his estate, made very liberal terms, and -successive generations of the house of Kildare, of which he is the -representative, have been not only friendly but generous to the -institution. - -Everything about the college reminds the student of the famous class of -Geraldines. The ancient castle of the Kildares, built by Maurice -Fitzgerald the Invader, and enlarged by John, the sixth earl, in the -year 1426, stands at the gate, and on either side of the main walk are -fine old yew-trees planted more than seven hundred years ago. According -to local legends that vain and reckless youth, "Silken Thomas," sat -beneath its spreading branches and played his harp three hundred and -seventy-five years ago, on the evening before he started for Dublin to -relinquish his trust as temporary viceroy and assault the castle. His -five uncles were hanged at Tyburn mainly because they were Catholics. -At the fall of the house the sole surviving heir was saved by his tutor, -a Catholic priest, who afterward became Bishop of Kildare. Several -generations later the earls of Kildare and the dukes of Leinster became -Protestants, but they always advocated the emancipation of their -Catholic fellow-countrymen, and have always been fair and honorable in -their dealings with the institution. - -It was a difficult task to get a faculty in those days, as there had not -been a Catholic college in Ireland for centuries. But the French -Revolution had cast upon the shores of Ireland many competent exiles, -who were placed in charge of the various departments, and among the -clergy of Ireland were found a sufficient number of scholars to complete -the staff of instructors. The Revolution of 1798 broke out two years -after the college was opened, and many of the students were stirred by -aspirations which caused their expulsion. It was a test that many felt -to be very severe; but the faculty were determined to keep faith with -the government, and sixteen students were expelled. In 1803, the year of -Emmet's insurrection, there was a good deal of insubordination, which -has been described as a "ground swell from the outside agitation." Six -students were expelled, one of whom, Michael Collins, afterward became -Bishop of Cloyne. - -The original grant of Parliament was $40,000 a year. In 1807 this was -increased to $65,000, which was expended in buildings. It was afterwards -reduced, and until 1840 was about $50,000. At that time there were four -hundred students, who could not be properly accommodated. In 1844 the -trustees drew up and forwarded to the government a strong memorial, -which was read in the House of Commons by Sir Robert Peel, who declared -that such a state of things was discreditable to the nation and that -Parliament should either cut Maynooth College adrift altogether, or -maintain it in a manner worthy of the state. In the face of resolute -opposition of a majority of his own party, he carried through a proposal -to give the sum of $30,000 for new buildings and an annual grant of -$26,360 for the maintenance of the college. Mr. Gladstone supported the -prime minister, Mr. Disraeli, then leader of the opposition, attacking -the bill fiercely. Thomas Babington Macaulay and Dr. Whately, the -rhetorician, both made eloquent and convincing speeches in its support. -In 1869, when the bill to dissolve the relations between the Protestant -church in Ireland and the government was passed, Mr. Gladstone, then -prime minister, was compelled to treat Maynooth College on the same -terms that he gave the Irish Episcopal branch of the Established Church, -and the Presbyterian, giving each a sum of money equal to fourteen -installments of its annual grants. - -The interest upon that sum at three and one-half per cent is not -sufficient for the proper support of so large an institution, but the -college has had many generous friends, and with economy has been able -not only to maintain itself but to strengthen its position, enlarge its -facilities, and give its students better accommodations and greater -advantages year by year. The several bishops of Ireland have raised -funds to endow many scholarships, so that the expenses incidental to -student life have been very much reduced for those who are unable to pay -the full fee. Nevertheless, there is great anxiety among the trustees -and the professors to extend the buildings, add several chairs to the -faculty, and obtain more endowments. - -Maynooth is the rendezvous of the Catholic hierarchy of Ireland, being -conveniently located and accessible to all the bishops. They meet here -frequently to discuss ecclesiastical matters and determine upon church -policies. His Eminence Cardinal Logue is president of the board of -trustees. His Grace the Most Rev. William J. Walsh, D.D., Archbishop of -Dublin, is vice-president. The Archbishop of Cashel, the Archbishop of -Tuam, and twelve bishops make up the board. The president of the college -is the Right Rev. Mgr. Mannix, D.D.; the vice-president is the Very Rev. -Thomas P. Gilmartin, D.D., and the deans of the different schools are -the Rev. Thomas T. Gilmartin, D.D., Rev. James Macginley, D.D., and the -Rev. Patrick Morrisroe. - -Religion is a live thing in Ireland, and the Roman Catholic churches are -always filled to overflowing at every service with as many men as women, -which is unusual in other countries. In Ireland the situation seems to -be different, and the congregations are invariably composed about -equally of the two sexes. The Church of Ireland is comparatively weak in -numbers, and has more houses of worship than it needs, having inherited -many of them from the confiscation edicts of the English kings. -Naturally they are not so well filled, but the Roman Catholics are -compelled to have three or four services every Sunday in order to -accommodate the worshipers, and the priest is invariably the most -influential man in the parish. He enters directly into the life of his -parishioners, the parish boundaries are sharply divided, and his -jurisdiction is so well defined that he knows all the sheep and all the -goats that belong to his flock, over whom he exercises a parental as -well as a spiritual care. They come to him in all their troubles and in -their joys. He advises them about social, political, commercial, -domestic, and personal as well as spiritual affairs, and is the court of -highest resort in all disputes and family matters. No other authority -reaches so far or is rooted so deep in the community, and this peculiar -relation grows closer with years. - -I formed a high opinion of the Irish priesthood from the examples I was -able to meet and to know. They impressed me as an unusually high class -of men intellectually as well as spiritually, and every one must admire -their devotion, their sincerity, and their self-sacrifice. Some of them -naturally become dictatorial, for it is often necessary for them to -assume an air of authority to preserve discipline in their parishes, but -I think that is more or less the rule in other countries and in all -denominations. You cannot talk back to a judge or a school-teacher or a -parson. And that is undoubtedly the ground for the charge so frequently -made that Ireland is "priest ridden." But the average of intelligence, -culture, and efficiency among the Irish priesthood is probably higher -than it is in any other country, and their influence is correspondingly -greater. There is a great deal of criticism in certain quarters about -the activity of the Irish priests in politics and that I found to be -largely a misrepresentation. Many of the priests do take an active part -in political affairs, but it is entirely a matter of individual taste -and inclination, and the proportion is probably no larger than it is -among ministers of all denominations in the United States. Those who are -well posted on this subject assured me that about one-third of the total -number of Catholic priests habitually interest themselves in political -affairs, local as well as national; a still larger number take an active -part in educational matters, and about one-half of them let politics -entirely alone. This is probably a fair estimate and will apply to the -clergy of the Church of Ireland and the nonconformist denominations with -equal accuracy, although they are much less numerous than the Roman -Catholic clergy. - -It is always interesting to attend mass at a Roman Catholic church on -Sunday in Ireland, particularly in the smaller towns and country -parishes, where everybody except those who are too infirm to come out is -present in his best clothes, and, no matter how poor he may be, no one -passes the man who stands with a box at the entrance without dropping in -something, most of them only a penny or a halfpenny, but none without an -offering. The appearance of the people, and particularly the women, is -in striking contrast to that on week-days, and I am told that this -depends very largely upon the priests, many of whom insist that every -man, woman, and child shall have a suit of Sunday clothes and "wash up" -before coming to the house of God. - -The Christian Brothers Educational Order of the Roman Catholic Church of -Ireland was organized in Waterford in 1802 by Edmund Rice, a wealthy -merchant who lamented the number of neglected boys he saw in the streets -and consulted Bishop Hussey, the first president of Maynooth College, as -to what he could do to rescue them. Mr. Rice sold his business and -opened a free school in his residence while a large building was being -erected for his use. The cornerstone was laid June 1, 1802. It was -finished the next year, was called Mount Zion, and is still in -operation, although very much enlarged. It has been the father house -and headquarters of the Irish Christian Brothers from the beginning. -Within a few years similar schools were opened in Dungarvan, Limerick, -Cork, Dublin, and later in every city and town in Ireland. In 1820 the -order was chartered by the Pope, and it has grown until there are now -more than one thousand brothers, all engaged in teaching day schools of -various standards, from primary instruction up to colleges. They have -technical and trade schools, commercial schools, orphanages, and schools -for the deaf and dumb and the blind all over the world, in Australia, -New Zealand, Africa, India, Gibraltar, and one house in New York. It is -independent of the American order of Christian Brothers, which was -founded in France in the seventeenth century by St. John Baptiste de la -Salle, a French abbé who was canonized by the Pope about four years ago. - -In Ireland the Christian Brothers receive no grant from the government, -and all their primary schools are free. Tuition is charged at the -secondary and technical schools and the remainder of the support comes -from legacies, private and public contributions, collections in -churches, and other sources. - -Edmund Rice died in 1844 at the age of eighty-two, and is buried in -Waterford cemetery, with this simple epitaph: - - BROTHER EDWARD IGNATIUS RICE, - Founder of Christian Schools - In Ireland and England. - -Carton House, the seat of the earls of Kildare, is on the opposite side -of Maynooth from the college. It is the present home of Maurice -Fitzgerald, Duke of Leinster, a young man who came of age in March, -1908. He carries more rank and titles than any other person in Ireland, -and has more money than any Irishman except Dublin's titled brewer. He -spends much of his time at Carton House, which looks like a Florentine -palace, but is completely modernized and fitted up with electric light, -telephones, and elevators, and stands upon an eminence in the center of -a park inclosed within eight miles of stone wall ten feet high. It is a -drive of three miles from his front gate to the threshold of his front -door, and there are more than thirty miles of macadamized roadway within -the demesne. There are hills and dales, twelve lakes, and four -waterfalls, one of them thirty-nine feet high. There is a garden of -sixty acres laid out in the French style, with fourteen or fifteen -fountains and many arbors, kiosks, and pergolas. There are meadows, -pastures, vegetable gardens, and fields of oats and other grain, but -three-fourths of the park is primeval forest, that has never heard the -sound of an axe, and most of the trees are as old as history. I am told -that no private park in the world surpasses the grounds of Carton House. -Among other curiosities is a cottage built entirely of shells, to -commemorate a visit of Queen Victoria, who describes her experiences in -"Leaves from Our Life," and tells of jaunting cars, Irish jigs, and -bagpipes. The shell cottage is now used as a museum to contain the -family relics. - -The young duke has several other residences. One of them is Kilkea -Castle, County Kildare, which came into the family in the thirteenth -century, with ninety thousand acres of farm land, which has just been -sold to his tenants under the Wyndham Land Act for more than $6,000,000. -The Duke of Leinster has also disposed of his farming lands in the -neighborhood of Maynooth for more than $800,000. The estates commission, -which has the responsibility of carrying out the provisions of the land -act, has purchased more land from him than from any other landlord, and -he has received from them in payment nearly one-fourth of the entire -amount of money that has been paid under the act by the government. He -has a plain but spacious town house on Dominick Street, Dublin, and Mrs. -John W. Mackay now occupies his London residence, 6 Carlton House -Terrace, under a long lease. His wealth is estimated at $50,000,000. He -is unmarried, and has no attachments so far as known. His accumulation -of titles is even greater than his wealth. He is the sixth duke of -Leinster, which title dates from 1761, and was bestowed by Queen Anne; -he is the twenty-fifth earl of Kildare, which title dates from 1316; and -the thirty-first baron of Offlay, a title that has been in the family -since 1168. He is the premier duke, the premier marquis, the premier -earl, and the premier baron; the head of the Irish nobility. And all -this rank and responsibility is borne by a frail boy of twenty-one. - -[Illustration: CARTON HOUSE, MAYNOOTH, COUNTY KILDARE; THE RESIDENCE OF -THE DUKE OF LEINSTER] - -He spent the winter of 1907-8 in America, incognito, under the name of -Maurice Fitzgerald. He and his tutor visited Quebec, Montreal, and -Ottawa, and all the principal cities in the United States. They -inspected Harvard, Yale, the University of Chicago, and Stanford -University, for the young duke has recently taken a degree at Oxford, -and was naturally curious to see some American institutions. He spent -some time in New York, and was in Washington for a couple of days -without disclosing his rank. He enjoyed himself immensely during the -entire journey and escaped all the matchmakers, the lion hunters, and -the society cormorants. He was not in search of a wife, but was seeking -health and completing his education. I am told that he is an exceedingly -sensible young fellow, modest, intelligent, thoughtful, and studious. He -does not need to marry for wealth nor for position. He can pick his own -wife, and has plenty of time to consider the choice. - -The duke has been very carefully brought up and educated. His mother -died when he was nine years old. She was Lady Hermione Duncombe, -daughter of the Earl of Faversham. His father died at the age of -forty-two, when he was fourteen. The present duke inherits his delicate, -frail constitution, and has symptoms of tuberculosis, which has been the -death of many Geraldines. To preserve himself from its dreaded grasp he -has lived an outdoor life under the care of a physician, and every -preventive that medical science can devise has been used for his -protection. Since the death of his mother he has been under the care of -three aunts,--Lady Cynthia Graham, Lady Ulrica Duncombe, and Lady Helen -Vincent,--his tutor, Rev. the Marquis of Normanby, and his trustee, the -Earl of Faversham. He has had governesses and tutors, spent two years at -Eton and three years at Oxford, although his studies have been -frequently interrupted by sea voyages and camping tours in the mountains -for his health. He has a brother, Desmond, two years his junior, and -another, Edward, who is fourteen years old. - -The Duke of Leinster is prepared to take his proper place in public -life, and has recently been appointed master of the horse to the Earl of -Aberdeen, lord lieutenant of Ireland. His acceptance of this post -indicates that he is a liberal in politics and a home ruler; and, -indeed, the tendency of his education has been in that direction. His -tutors and trustees are all home rulers and liberals. He is in training -for the viceregal throne of Ireland, which so many of his ancestors have -occupied, and that is his ambition. If Ireland should be granted -autonomy under the plan proposed by Mr. Gladstone twenty-five years ago -and demanded as their ultimatum by the Irish national party, the Duke of -Leinster will be the most available candidate for lord lieutenant, and -for many reasons his selection would be agreeable to those most -interested on both sides of St. George's Channel. His advent in politics -is an event of great importance, and therefore will be watched with -anxiety. - -The mansion at Maynooth is an immense building of more than two hundred -rooms, sumptuously furnished. There are fourteen drawing-rooms, and the -banqueting hall will seat three hundred people. The library contains one -of the largest and most valuable collections of books in Ireland, and -the pictures are of great value as well as artistic interest. - -The Leinster coat of arms is a monkey stantant with plain collar and -chained; motto, "Crom-a-boo" ("To Victory"). This is the only coat of -arms, I am told, that has ever borne a monkey in the design, and it was -adopted by John Fitzthomas Fitzgerald in 1316 for romantic reasons. -While an infant he was in the castle of Woodstock, now owned by the Duke -of Marlborough, which caught fire. In the confusion the child was -forgotten, and when the family and servants remembered him and started a -search they found the nursery in ruins. But on one of the towers was a -gigantic ape, a pet of the family, carefully holding the young earl in -its arms. The animal, with extraordinary intelligence, had crawled -through the smoke, rescued the baby and carried it to the top of the -tower. When he grew to manhood the earl discarded the family coat of -arms and adopted a monkey for his crest, which has been retained to this -day, and wherever you find a tomb of a Fitzgerald you will see the -figure of a monkey at the feet of the effigy or under the inscription. - -Fitzthomas Fitzgerald, the child thus miraculously saved, was the hero -of many romances and adventures, and for his eminent services to the -crown King Edward II. created him the first Earl of Kildare, May 14, -1316. He was the ancestor of the famous earls, dukes, and marquesses of -Ormonde and the earls, dukes, and marquesses of Desmond, although those -branches of the family afterward became the rivals and the foes of the -Kildares. The Duke of Leinster, by reason of the marriages of his -ancestors and collateral members of the family, is related to almost -every noble in the kingdom. - -The Fitzgeralds are descended from the Gherardini family of Florence, -one of whom passed over into Normandy in the tenth century and thence to -England, where he became a favorite of Edward the Confessor, and was -appointed castellan of Windsor and warden of the forests of the king. In -1078 he is mentioned in Doomsday Book as the owner of enormous areas of -land in England and Wales. In 1168 Maurice Fitzgerald, whose name was -anglicized and who was the father of the Irish branch of the family, -accompanied Richard de Clare, Earl of Pembroke, better known as -Strongbow, in the invasion of Ireland and was granted large estates. He -died at Wexford in 1177 and was buried in the Abbey of the Grey Friars -outside the walls of that town. One of his sons became Baron of Offlay, -another became Baron of Nass, and Thomas, the third, was the ancestor of -the earls of Desmond. The next earl was a man of great piety. In 1216 he -introduced into Ireland the Order of the Franciscans and built them an -abbey at Youghal. In 1229 he induced the Dominicans to send a band of -missionaries and built them an abbey at Adair. And his son was equally -devoted to the church. - -The castle at Maynooth, which for several centuries was one of the -largest and strongest in Ireland, was built by Gerald, the fifth earl, -in 1427, whose second son was the founder of the house of Ormonde and -was created earl of that name. - -For sixteen generations the earls of Kildare were the most active men in -Ireland, and the history of their adventures would fill a book as big as -a dictionary. There was always "something doing" wherever they went; -they were on all sides of all questions and were sometimes fighting each -other as fiercely as the family foes. They led rebellions against their -sovereign, have suffered imprisonment, and have been executed at Tyburn -and the Tower. They have been the boldest and most powerful defenders of -British authority in Ireland and several times have saved the island to -the British throne. More lords lieutenants have come from the Kildares -than from any other family, and among the long list of earls have been -some splendid characters. - -The eighth earl subdued all the native chieftains and made them submit -to English authority. An early historian describes him as "A mightie man -of stature, full of honoure and courage, who has bin Lord Deputie and -Lord Justice of Ireland three and thirtie yeares. He was in government -milde, to his enemies stearne, he was open and playne; hardley able to -rule himself, but could well rule others; in anger he was sharp and -short, being easily displeased and easily appeased." - -Thomas Gerald, the twelfth earl, having incurred the enmity of Cardinal -Wolsey, was called to England and committed to the Tower for treason. -When he left Ireland he intrusted his official authority and -responsibilities to his son and heir, familiarly known as "Silken -Thomas," because of the gorgeous trappings of his retinue. The boy was -then but twenty-one, bold, brave, patriotic, and generous, and became -the victim of a plot devised by agents of Cardinal Wolsey, who spread a -report that his father had been beheaded in the Tower. The impetuous -young lord left the Castle of Maynooth, rode into Dublin, and, entering -the chamber where the council sat, openly renounced his allegiance to -the King of England, gave his reasons and laid mace and sword, the -symbols of office, upon the table. Archbishop Cromer, the lord -chancellor, besought him to reconsider, explaining that the rumor from -London might be false, and the young earl was about to yield when the -voice of the family bard, who had followed him to Dublin, was heard -through the window singing the death song of the Kildares. "Silken -Thomas" seized his sword, summoned the Geraldines, the family clan, -which was the mightiest and most numerous in Ireland, assaulted the -castle, and soon involved the entire country in a desperate revolution. -When the old earl heard the news in his cell in the Tower he sent a -message to Henry VIII. asking pardon for the rashness of his son and -then died of a broken heart. - -All Ireland was in flames; three-fourths of Kildare County and the -greater part of Meath was burned; thousands of innocent people died of -starvation and thousands in battle before the rebellion was suppressed. -Finally Kildare, who was then but twenty-four, surrendered upon a -promise that he should receive full pardon when he arrived in London and -renewed his allegiance personally to the king. This pledge was -shamefully violated. Henry VIII. refused to receive him, and sent him to -the Tower, where for eighteen months he lay neglected and in great -misery. He wrote an old servant asking money for clothes, saying: "I -have gone shirtless and barefoot and bare-legged divers times, and so I -should have done still but that poor prisoners of their gentleness hath -sometimes given me old hosen and shirts and shoes." - -Five of his uncles, although it was well known that three of them had -remained stanch adherents of the crown, were hanged, drawn, and -quartered at Tyburn, Feb. 8, 1537, and orders went forth from Henry -VIII. that the house of Kildare should be exterminated. - -Gerald, the baby heir, the only survivor of his race, was wrapped in -warm flannels by Thomas Leverus, afterward Bishop of Kildare, carried -across bog and mountain, and committed to the protection of the -O'Brians, who by sending the infant from place to place were able to -save its life. The O'Brians passed the child over to the MacCarthys, and -Lady Eleanor MacCarthy, a widow, disguised as a peasant, conveyed him -to St. Mels, France, upon a fishing boat. Even there he was pursued from -one place of refuge to another, by detectives and adventurers in hopes -of the great reward, until finally he obtained a safe retreat in Rome, -where Cardinal Pole, a distant relative, protected and educated him. -When he grew to manhood he entered the service of Cosmo de Medicis, the -great Duke of Florence, with whom he remained until Henry VIII., the -vindictive enemy of his family, was dead. He could then return in safety -to his native country, and Queen Mary soon after pardoned him and -restored his hereditary titles and estates. Fourteen generations of -Kildares have passed across the stage since then, and the present Duke -of Leinster represents a family that has had more exciting experiences -than any other in the United Kingdom. - - - - - XI - - DROGHEDA, AND THE VALLEY OF THE BOYNE - - -One of the loveliest railway or automobile rides in Ireland is from -Dublin northward to the ancient town of Drogheda (pronounced Drawdah). -The railroad runs parallel with the highway along the shore of St. -George's Channel. Both touch several popular seaside resorts, fishing -settlements, and busy manufacturing towns, which alternate with -beautiful pastures filled with sleek cattle and unshorn sheep, and here -and there ivy-clad towers and little groups of chimney pots rise above -the foliage. The pastures and meadows, when we saw them, blazing with -yellow buttercups, looked like the Field of the Cloth of Gold. They are -divided into small plots by hedges of hawthorn twelve and fifteen feet -high, which in the early summer are as white as banks of snow, and so -fragrant that the perfume floated into the car windows. - -Between the meadows and the pastures along the coast are plots of -cultivated ground, gardens of potatoes, cabbages, and other vegetables -and glorious groves. It isn't a bit like the Ireland one expects to see -after reading newspaper accounts of the terrible conditions that the -politicians complain of. It is not a country of downtrodden peasants and -a wretched tenantry crushed under the heels of oppressive landlords. -Right is not upon the scaffold in that section of Ireland, nor is wrong -upon the throne. On the contrary, every evidence of prosperity and -contentment and happiness abounds. The neatly whitewashed, -straw-thatched cottages are surrounded with gay gardens filled with -old-fashioned flowers, such as you see in Massachusetts and New -Hampshire. Large stables and storehouses are attached to almost every -cottage, which indicates that the farmer has something to put in them. -The traveler cannot see the mansions of the rich, because they are -hidden in glorious parks and protected by high walls. Occasionally in -the distance, however, he can catch glimpses of the towers of ancient -castles, each having a romance or a tragedy, and sometimes several of -both, contained in their history. - -At Malehide forty or fifty golf players alighted from the train, with -kits of clubs over their shoulders, for there are two links near that -village--one for an exclusive club of rich Dubliners, and the other for -any one who is able to pay half a crown for the privilege of chasing a -little gutta-percha ball over the grass. Malehide is a lovely place, -situated on the seashore at the mouth of a little stream called Meadow -Water, with hotels of all grades and prices, fashionable and -unfashionable, and some of them are open for health seekers the year -around. - -The chief attraction to tourists is the ancient castle of the Talbot -family, who have owned and occupied it continuously for seven hundred -years, an unusual record for Ireland or for anywhere else. The original -castle, built about 1180, in the reign of Henry II., is still standing, -although modern restorations and additions have changed it much. The -exterior has suffered more than the interior. The dining-hall, a very -large apartment, is considered one of the finest rooms in Ireland. The -wainscoting and the ceiling are of oak, richly carved, and mellowed by -exposure for more than six centuries. The chimney-piece, an exquisite -example of fourteenth century carving, represents the Conception. From -1653 to 1660 the castle was inhabited by Miles Corbet, the regicide, and -the very day he took possession of the place, according to tradition, -the figure of the Blessed Virgin was mysteriously detached from the rest -of the carving and disappeared until the night after the unholy tenant -fled from the place, when it was miraculously restored. - -There is a fine collection of paintings in the castle, including -portraits by Van Dyck and other famous artists, three panels of -scripture subjects by Albert Dürer, which formerly belonged to Mary, -Queen of Scots, and were purchased by Charles II. for $2,000. The -library is a treasure-house of old tomes and manuscripts, and upon the -wall, in a heavy oaken frame, hangs the original patent by which the -estate was granted to the Talbot family by King Edward IV. - -Within the roofless walls of an ancient abbey near by is the altar-tomb -of Maud Plunkett, whose husband, Sir Richard Talbot, according to the -epitaph, "fell in a fray immediately after the wedding breakfast, thus -making her maid, wife, and widow in a single day." - -The village of Swords, three miles distant, has another ancient castle, -where the bodies of Brian Boru and his son Morrough rested the first -night after the battle of Clontarf while they were being carried to -their final tomb at Armagh. - -All the little towns along the coast of the Irish Channel are associated -with St. Patrick and St. Columba, who spent more or less time there, -founding monasteries and building churches. One of the monasteries, -called "the Golden Prebend" because it was so rich, was held by William -of Wykeham in 1366 and was the seat of a cardinal for a century or two. - -A mile and a half from the main line, beyond Swords, is the village of -Portraine, where Dean Swift's "Stella" lived for several years, and -where a branch of the insane asylum he founded in Dublin has since been -erected. It stands upon lands given by Sigtryg of the Silken Beard, the -Danish king of Dublin, for the endowment of a Christian church. The -house was occupied for many years by the nuns of St. Augustine, where -"the womankind of the most part of the whole Englisher of this land are -brought up in virtue, learning and in the English tongue and behaviour." - -The little town of Rush, famous for its early potatoes and its tulip -bulbs, is called "Holland in Ireland." It has an old church, with -beautiful pointed arches, which dates back to the sixteenth century, and -contains a richly decorated monument to Sir Christopher Barnwell and his -beloved wife, who died in 1607. - -Skerries is a fishing-town, where St. Patrick lived for several years, -and a quaint little chapel, like many others in Ireland, is attributed -to him, although it could not possibly have been built for several -centuries after his time. But in the history of these ancient -sanctuaries a few hundred years do not count. - -While ruins are picturesque and ivy-clad castles that date back beyond -the Middle Ages have a fascination for tourists from a new world like -ours, it was a relief when the chauffeur brought us up to the entrance -of an old-fashioned factory in the compact little town of Balbriggan, -which has given its name to a certain kind of knitted goods that are -worn the world over. It is a quaint mass of high houses, built of stone -and brick on both sides of narrow but neatly kept streets, which seems -unnecessary when miles of green fields and glowing gardens encircle them -and give them every chance to spread out. But you will find the same -tendency to snuggle up as closely as possible in all the manufacturing -communities of Europe. - -The men folks at Balbriggan fish and farm the soil, and the women work -in the mills, but the law, which is strictly enforced there, prohibits -child labor and compels the children to attend school for at least one -hundred and twenty-eight days in the year until they pass their -fourteenth birthday. The superintendents of the mills tell the same -story that I heard in the cotton factories of South Carolina and -Georgia, that they prefer adult operatives; that the children are -careless and inefficient and seldom earn their wages, but they are -compelled to employ them or lose the services of the parents. There are -two factories in Balbriggan for the manufacture of knitted hosiery and -underclothing by machinery invented here more than one hundred and fifty -years ago and since imitated everywhere. Both factories still remain -under the control of the families which founded them, but the shares are -distributed among a larger number of people by inheritance from -generation to generation. - -Scattered along the coast at intervals of two or three miles, and -generally at the summits of hills overlooking the sea, are "martello -towers," fifty, sixty, and sometimes ninety feet high, and from forty to -a hundred feet in diameter. They were erected early in the nineteenth -century as defensive watch-towers, when the country was in dread of an -invasion by Napoleon. The name was taken from similar towers in Corsica -and Sardinia, where they were erected for protection against pirates in -the time of Charles V. These towers are said to have originally had -bells which were struck by hammers to alarm the people in case of -danger; hence they were called "martello" towers, that being the Italian -word for "hammer." - -It makes a Protestant ashamed when he reads the history of Drogheda and -sees the ruins that Cromwell left there. Thousands of men and women and -children were butchered in the name of the Lord by Cromwell's soldiers -when he took that quaint old town by storm in September, 1649. It was a -ferocious massacre, and Cromwell admitted the facts while proclaiming -himself the agent of the Almighty to punish a rebellious people. This is -what he wrote with his own hand: - -"The governor, Sir Arthur Aston, and divers considerable officers being -there, our men, getting up to them, were ordered by me to put them all -to the sword, and, indeed, being in the heat of action, I forbade them -to spare any that were in arms in the town; and I think that night they -put to death about two thousand persons. Divers officers and soldiers -being fled over the bridge into the other part of the town, where about -a hundred of them possessed St. Peter's Church steeple, some the West -Gate, and others a strong round tower next to the gate called St. -Sundays. These being summoned to yield for mercy refused. Whereupon I -ordered the steeple of St. Peter's Church to be fired. The next day the -other two towers were summoned. When they submitted their officers were -knocked on the head and every tenth man of the soldiers was killed. The -rest shipped for the Barbadoes. The soldiers in the other tower were all -spared as to their lives only and shipped likewise for the Barbadoes. - -"I am persuaded that this is a righteous judgment of God upon these -barbarous wretches who have imbued their hands in so much innocent -blood; and that it will tend to prevent the effusion of blood for the -future." - -Two of the towers have remained these two hundred and fifty years just -as grim old Oliver left them, and there is much else of interest to the -antiquarian in the town, although today it is given up to linen -factories, flour mills, tanneries, and soap works, and has a large -provision trade with England. It is the center of a prosperous -agricultural community, and everybody seems to be doing well. - -The greatest attraction is the ruins of Monasterboice, an extensive -monastery, founded by St. Patrick, like every other ecclesiastical -institution in this country, and three magnificent crosses which arise -among them, about six miles from town. We tried to get a carriage -instead of a jaunting car for the drive, because the latter allows you -to see only one side of the roadway, but Mrs. Murphy, who has a livery -stable and a tongue that is hung in the middle, could furnish us nothing -else. It is a delightful drive. On the outward journey we saw what there -is to see on one hand, and coming back we saw everything on the other. - -The ruins of Monasterboice cover a large area, for five hundred monks -and several thousand students were there eight or nine hundred years -ago. It was one of the largest educational institutions in the world, as -well as a religious retreat. It dates back to the fifth century, and was -probably founded by St. Patrick,--certainly by one of his -disciples,--although there is no tangible evidence to prove that fact. A -"round tower" still in good condition, dates from the ninth century. It -is one hundred and ten feet high and fifty-one feet in diameter at the -base. It was intended for observation, for signaling to the country -around, for the storage of valuables and military supplies, and for -defensive purposes. Strangely enough, it sits in a hollow, in the lowest -part of an amphitheater, surrounded by hills, but the Irish monks as -well as the Irish warriors of ancient times always built beside streams -of running water and not upon the heights, like the Goths, the Huns, -the Teutons, and the Romans. - -There are similar "round towers" at Cashel, Glendalough, Kildare, -Antrim, and other places in the interior of Ireland which have long been -subject of an irreconcilable dispute among archæologists. While no one -knows definitely who built them, or what they were for, the most -credited theory is that I have given above. - -Dr. Petrie, who is a high authority, believes that they were built -between the years 890 and 1238, when the Danes were in the habit of -invading Ireland and plundering the ecclesiastical establishments. One -of the most perfect of these towers, at Antrim, is ninety-two feet in -height and forty-nine feet in circumference at the bottom; the summit -terminates in a cone twelve feet high, which, with the tower itself, is -of undressed stone, the walls being two feet nine inches in thickness. -The door is on the north side at a height of seven feet nine inches from -the ground. The tower was apparently divided into four stories by timber -floors, which, of course, vanished long ago. Each of the three lower -stories is lighted by a square window, and the upper story by four -square perforations opening to the cardinal points. It stands in the -grounds of a mansion. The turf between the two shows the dim outline of -buildings, supposed to be those of a monastery founded by Aodh, a -disciple of St. Patrick, the earliest notice of which occurs in the year -495. It was destroyed during the Danish incursions. - -The walls of the chapel at Monasterboice are standing firm and strong, -but without a roof, and the grounds surrounding them and the ruins of -the monastery are still used for the burial of the families of the -parish. It is a free cemetery and belongs to the government and not to -the Catholic Church. Anybody--Protestant, Quaker, or Jew--can lay his -tired bones down under the hospitable trees by application to the -secretary of the board of public works. The oldest grave is that of -Bishop O'Rourke, who was buried there in 982; the latest, marked by a -clumsy wooden cross, was made in 1907. - -What people go there to see are three splendid Celtic crosses, the -finest specimens of the kind in Ireland, and that means the universe. -They are believed to have been erected in the fifth century in honor of -St. Patrick, St. Columba, and St. Bridget. This, however, is -questionable. One of them bears the inscription, "A prayer for -Murriduch, by whom was made this cross." From the Irish Annals it may be -learned that two men of that name have lived in this neighborhood, both -of wealth and distinction, and they died, one in the year 844 and the -other in 924. It is entirely probable that either of them may have -erected the splendid monoliths. The largest is twenty-seven feet high, -and all of them are covered with carvings of religious subjects. The -crosses of Monasterboice have been photographed and reproduced many -times, and models have been shipped to all parts of the world. Perfect -replicas may be found in the museum at Dublin. - -Four miles further on are the ruins of Mellifont Abbey, which was -founded in the twelfth century, and has had an important part in the -political as well as the ecclesiastical history of Ireland. - -There are several drawbacks to motoring in Ireland, the chief of which -is that the country is so short on good hotels and so long on showers. -The next is the inability to see through or over walls of stone and -hedges that rise twice as high as one's head. Nevertheless, wherever -there is much to see and little time to see it in, one has to put up -with some annoyances, and an automobile is no longer a luxury or a mere -convenience, but an actual necessity. - -The Irish climate is like the Irish character. A witty native once said -of his fellow countrymen, "They smile aisy and they cry aisy," and that -describes the habits of the heavens also. Clouds assemble and do -business in quicker time than in any other place I have ever been, but, -although it will "rain cats and dogs" for fifteen or twenty minutes, the -sun will be shining almost instantly afterward, as if nothing had -happened. - -[Illustration: A CELTIC CROSS AT MONASTERBOICE, COUNTY LOUTH] - -Unfortunately the hotel proposition is not so easily disposed of. Most -of the inns of the country districts and in the small cities are -absolutely intolerable. It isn't so much because of a lack of luxuries -and modern conveniences that the traveler finds in England, Scotland, -and on the Continent at similar places, as it is the excess of dirt and -bad smells. In the average country hotel in Ireland everything is in -disorder and out of repair. The bells don't work; the furniture is -crippled and decrepit; the mattresses are lumpy and half the springs are -broken or out of joint; the bedrooms are seldom swept, the table cloths -are seldom washed; sheets and pillow-cases, are seldom changed, and if a -guest should call for a clean towel the landlord would be likely to ask -what is the matter with the one he gave him a few days ago. The only -alternative to stopping at a dirty hotel is to ride on until you come to -a clean one, and that may be as far as the ends of the earth. The more -practical, and indeed the only, way is to accept the situation good -naturedly and get the best you can out of it. Any person who takes an -interest in this subject can find further and accurate information in -that charming book, "Penelope's Irish Experiences," by Kate Douglas -Wiggin. It is asserted by those who know that there are only five good -hotels in Ireland. We found nine, but did not keep count of the other -kind. They are too numerous to mention. - -The road from Drogheda to Tara, the ancient capital of Ireland, follows -the valley of the famous Boyne River, and passes through the famous -battlefield where William of Orange, with thirty thousand men, in 1690, -overcame James II. with twenty-three thousand, and deprived the latter -of his dominion and his crown and gave the Protestants control of -Ireland for the next two hundred and fifty years. A stately monument has -been erected upon the field, and various small markers have been placed -about to show where important incidents took place. - -The Valley of the Boyne is extremely beautiful. The banks are densely -wooded for miles, and the river flows through many fine estates owned -and occupied by rich people from London, Dublin, and other cities. The -climate is agreeable and healthful for nine or ten months in the year. -Only February, March, and April are unpleasant, because of the winds. -The scenery is peaceful and attractive, the foliage of the groves and -forests is rich beyond comparison, and it is difficult to conceive of -more desirable surroundings for a summer home for men of wealth and -leisure. To the antiquarian and the archæologist there is an unlimited -field for exploration that has only been touched thus far. - -Only a few miles from Drogheda, and on the direct road to Tara, is a -collection of tumuli which are unsurpassed in Europe or any other part -of the world. They mark the location of Brugh-Na-Boinne, the royal -cemetery of ancient Ireland, the burying-ground of the kings of Tara for -centuries before the history of the country began. Although they do not -show the same architectural skill or artistic taste or mechanical -mysteries, and do not compare in magnitude with the pyramids and other -tombs of the kings of Egypt, they nevertheless have an entrancing -interest to those who love archæology and prehistoric lore. The tumuli -are scattered over a large area, and, according to the theories of -scientists who have explored them, contained the bodies of successive -royal families of Ireland until the invasion of the Danes, when they -were desecrated, looted, and nearly destroyed, just as the tombs of the -kings of Egypt were stripped of their treasures by the Assyrians and -other invaders. - -[Illustration: RUINS OF MELLIFONT ABBEY, NEAR DROGHEDA, COUNTY LOUTH] - -The most remarkable tumulus, at New Grange, has been described at length -by several eminent antiquarians. It stands on elevated ground, and -covers about three acres, the main part being two hundred and eighty -feet in diameter and about one hundred and twenty feet high. It is now -covered with dense vegetation. It is a vast cairn of loose stones, -estimated at one hundred thousand tons, those at the base being very -large--from six to eight feet long and four or five feet thick. They are -arranged in a circle without masonry; simply laid in order and smaller -stones placed inside and on top of them until an artificial cavern was -created, which was reached by a passage sixty-two feet long, formed of -enormous upright stones from five to eight feet high and roofed with -flagstones of great size. This passage leads to a low dome-roofed -chamber, nearly circular, whose ceiling is supported by eleven upright -pillars. The ceiling is nineteen and a half feet from the ground. There -are three other chambers, measuring eighteen by twenty-one feet in size, -which at one time were doubtless filled with the bodies of the royal -families. The archæologists compare them to the beehive tombs of Mycenæ, -known as "The Treasury of Atreus," and find many resemblances. The -surfaces of some of the stones are rudely carved with cryptographs and -ornamental designs. - -There are several other tumuli in the neighborhood of different dates -and dimensions and of absorbing interest to science; and all of them we -know, from that accurate and comprehensive chronicle, "The Annals of the -Four Masters," were plundered by the Danes in the year 801. Those -vandals left nothing but bones and cinerary urns; they took away or -destroyed everything else. The tumuli are now in the custody of the -board of works, which is taking care of them, and is having careful -scientific excavations and other examinations made by competent -authorities. - -There are several other cemeteries in the neighborhood that are not so -old, and they also are supposed to contain the dust of kings; but few of -the graves have been identified. One of them, marked with two tombstones -set with their tops together like the gable of a house, has been -declared to be of greater antiquity than any other Christian tomb in -Ireland, and is supposed to contain the remains of St. Eric, the first -bishop consecrated by St. Patrick. He died toward the end of the fifth -century. It is said that his custom was to stand immersed in the Boyne -River up to his two armpits from morn till evening, having his psalter -lying before him on the strand where he could read its pages, and -continually engaging in prayer. - -In another grave lie the bones of Cormac, the greatest of the kings of -Tara, who was a Christian, having been converted by St. Patrick. His -death was brought about by the Druid priests, who cast a spell over him -and caused a bone of salmon to stick in his throat. He commanded his -people not to bury him at Brugh-Na-Boinne among his royal ancestors, -because it was a cemetery of idolators, but to place his body humbly in -consecrated ground, with his face to the east. These injunctions were -clear and positive, but the king's servants required a miracle to induce -them to obey. Three separate times they started from the palace at Tara -for the royal burying-ground at Brugh-Na-Boinne, when the river -miraculously rose to such a height that they could not cross. After so -many warnings their stupid brains finally saw the light and they laid -his majesty's ashes in consecrated ground, as he had commanded. - -The little antiquated village of Kells, with pleasant surroundings and -glorious foliage, sleeps unconscious of its fame. It is of the greatest -interest to Christian archæologists, because it was the home of St. -Columba (or Columbkill), second only to St. Patrick in influence and in -the work of evangelizing Ireland. He was born in Donegal in 521, of -royal blood, being the great-great-grandson of King Niall of the Nine -Hostages, founder of the O'Neill family. Having heard the truth of the -gospel, he gave up his princely heritage for the service of his Master -and became a monk. He traveled for sixteen years, preaching from place -to place, founding churches and monasteries all over the country, which -are still venerated by the people, and are among the most interesting -ruins in Ireland. At Kells he built a famous monastery in the year 550, -and the cost was paid by Dermot, son of Fearghus, king of Tara, at that -time. - -St. Columba made his headquarters there for many years and then crossed -the channel to the little Island of Iona, on the west coast of Scotland, -which had been granted him by his relative, the king of that country. He -founded a monastery there, from which he and his disciples traversed all -Scotland and the Hebrides, preaching the gospel, baptizing the people, -building churches and monasteries, until half the Scotch were converted -to Christianity. The rest of Great Britain was converted from paganism -by the missionaries he educated and sent out. After a life of -extraordinary activity and usefulness he died at Iona in the year 597 -at the age of seventy-six years and was mourned by every one on the -shores of the four seas. His funeral lasted three days and three nights, -and he was buried within the walls of the monastery of Iona, whence his -remains were afterward removed to Downpatrick and buried in the same -grave as those of St. Patrick and St. Bridget. - -A portion of the house of St. Columba still remains at Kells, half -concealed by a cloak of wonderful ivy. There is a tower one hundred feet -tall, and in the neighboring churchyard are several crosses of the -Celtic fashion, similar to, but not so large or so fine as those at -Monasterboice. They are, however, sacred in the eyes of all Irishmen and -date back to the tenth century. - -The "Annals of the Four Masters" record many exciting incidents and -important events that have occurred in the history of the town of Kells. -It has been invaded and looted by Irish clansmen, Norwegian hordes, and -Danish Vikings. It has been devastated many times by fire, sword, and -pestilence. Sigtryg of the Silken Beard burned it to the ground in 1019, -and Edward Bruce in 1315, but it has arisen serene and smiling as often -as it has been destroyed, and prosperity has been restored again. It was -in the great monastery founded by St. Columba that the famous -illuminated "Book of the Gospels," preserved in the library of Trinity -College, Dublin, was made by the monks in the eighth century. Mr. -Westwood, a very high authority, pronounces it "the most elaborately -executed monument of early Christian art in existence." Kells was also -noted for its metal work in the Middle Ages. At present it is merely an -agricultural market and the seat of the Marquess of Headfort, who has a -large estate and a beautiful chateau surrounded by a wooded demesne and -a hunting preserve. There are several other delightful residences in the -neighborhood, and if there were a decent hotel within walking or driving -distance, Kells might have many visitors, but those who go there are -compelled to hurry away to find some place to stay overnight. - -Navan, a neat little manufacturing town with a woolen mill and other -industries, has a reasonably good hotel, but you have to come back about -ten miles from Kells. There is another neat little town called Trim, -where it is possible to stay overnight and even to pass a day or two. -The country around Trim is lovely. The landscapes in every direction -would fascinate an artist, and the ruins of "King John's Castle," built -on the banks of the Boyne by Hugh de Lacy, are among the most extensive -and beautiful in the world. The walls, four hundred and eighty-six yards -long, with ten circular towers at nearly equal distances, are still well -preserved and there is a lofty keep, seventy feet high, with beautiful -turrets and flanked on either side with rectangular towers. There is -nothing to surpass it in Ireland for picturesqueness, and its -associations give it additional interest, for King John, Edward II., -Richard, Earl of Ulster, and Humphrey, Duke of Gloucester, and other -famous characters, have lived there. Henry of Lancaster, afterward Henry -IV. of England, was imprisoned there; the parliament of Ireland met -within its walls, year after year, and it was once the mint of the -kingdom. In later days it was occupied by the Duke of Wellington, who -received his early education in the diocesan school within the grounds. - -His name, you know, was Arthur Wellesley. He was a son of Lord -Mornington, of an old Irish family. His mother was a daughter of the -Earl of Dungannon of Tyrone, and she lived to see four of her sons -elevated to the peerage of Great Britain, not because of wealth or -political influence, but because of their ability and usefulness. -Richard, the eldest, was that celebrated statesman, the Marquis of -Wellesley; the second, William, was also eminent in politics and civil -affairs as Lord Mayborough; the third, Henry, Lord Crowley, spent his -life in the diplomatic service and made an enviable name, while Arthur, -hero of Waterloo and of the Spanish campaign, the man who broke the back -of Napoleon the Great, was the fourth and most famous of them all. - -Arthur Wellesley was born May 1, 1769, in Merrion Street, Dublin, in a -house now occupied by the commissioners that are carrying out the land -act, and he died Sept. 18, 1852. It may be said that no other Irish -subject of a British king ever received greater honors or better -deserved them. - -Dungan Castle, the home of the Wellesleys, is near Trim, about twenty -miles from Dublin, and the nearest railway station is Summer Hill. -Laracor, a secluded little village where Dean Swift was once curate and -where Stella lived with Mrs. Dingley, is only a mile or two distant. - - - - - XII - - TARA--THE ANCIENT CAPITAL OF IRELAND - - -In prehistoric times, before the conversion of Ireland to Christianity -by St. Patrick, the clan system prevailed there, as it did in other -countries of Europe. A "clan," or "sept," consisted of a number of -families and was ruled by a patriarch, the greatest warrior, or the -oldest man. A "tribe" was a larger group, consisting of several clans or -septs more or less related to each other and occupying a distinct and -separate territory under the command of a chieftain. Several tribes -composed a nation, as the word is used among the North American Indians, -ruled by a "ri," or king, while the "ard-ri," or over-king, a supreme -monarch with jurisdiction extending to the remotest shores of Ireland, -reigned and resided at Tara until the sixth century, with the province -of Meath as his own exclusive demesne for the use and support of his -family and his court. He received tribute from the local kings or "ri" -and was elected by their votes. Occasionally at his call, or at stated -intervals, the kings and chiefs would assemble at Tara to consider -matters of importance to all, to adopt laws and regulations for -preserving peace and promoting the welfare of their subjects and -protecting their common interests. Several feasts, held there annually, -were attended by the minor kings, chieftains, and nobles who were -followed by large retinues. Their warriors engaged in games, sports, and -tournaments to encourage the physical development of the race and teach -the arts of war. From the throne of the ard-ri decrees were announced, -laws proclaimed, justice dispensed, and prizes awarded. According to the -annals of those early days, one hundred and forty-two kings reigned at -Tara during a period of two thousand five hundred and thirty years, -when the place was abandoned in consequence of a curse pronounced by St. -Ruadhan of Lorrha for the failure to punish Hugh Garry for the murder of -a monk. Until the time of Cormac Mac Art, greatest and most luxurious of -all the ancient kings of Ireland, the rulers who sat at Tara were -pagans, but he was converted to Christianity, and the annalists in -glowing lines describe his piety and his devotions. - -According to the ancient laws, the king of Ireland could not have a -blemish upon his person, and Cormac was obliged to abdicate power and -authority and retire to the top of the Hill of Skreen, across the valley -from the Hill of Tara, because his left eye was put out by an arrow shot -by Ængus, a rebellious chieftain, who is believed to have been under the -influence of Druid priests, to punish Cormac for accepting Christianity. - -Cormac's administration was the golden age at Tara, and although there -was no pretense of architectural display in the wicker palaces that were -thatched with straw, nevertheless he and other kings of that period -possessed great wealth and made gorgeous displays at the ceremonies of -their courts. An early writer describes a banquet given by Cormac Mac -Art to one hundred kings, chieftains, astrologers, bards, and other -distinguished men, who were seated at twelve tables, sixteen attendants -at each table, and two oxen, two sheep, and two hogs were consumed, -besides other and many varieties of food. - - "Beautiful was the appearance of Cormac," says the ancient - manuscript, "flowing slightly, curling golden hair upon him; - - "A red buckler with stars and animals of gold and fastenings of - silver upon him; - - "A crimson cloak in wide descending folds upon him; - - "Fastened at his breast by a golden brooch set with precious stones; - - "A torque of gold of curious design and richly graven around his - neck; - - "A white shirt with a full collar intertwined with red gold thread - upon him; - - "A girdle of gold inlaid with precious stones around him; - - "Two wonderful shoes of gold with runnings of gold upon him; - - "Two spears with golden sockets in his hand." - -In such attire did the king appear at the banquet given in honor of his -chieftains: - - "The feis of Temur each third year, - To preserve the laws and rules - Was then convened firmly - By the illustrious King of Erin." - -The last _ard-ri_, or king of all Ireland, was Roderick O'Conor, who -died in 1198. - -The archæologists, judging by the ruins and the traces of the walls, -find that the great banqueting hall was 759 feet long by 90 feet wide; -the other buildings were circular or oval; and it is apparent that they -were surrounded by walls of stone intended both for privacy and -protection. - -No doubt the royal residences and other buildings at Tara were of wicker -construction. Furthest to the south, on the ridge or hill of Tara, is -the Rath Laoghaire (Leary), built by an old king whom St. Patrick tried -to convert, but without success; and somewhere in the rampart on the -southern side of this are the bones of Laoghaire. He was buried as he -ordered--in the bank of his rath, standing erect, with his shield and -weapons, with his face turned southward toward his foes, the Lagenians -(Leinstermen). Next northward is Rath na Riogh (Rath of the Kings), -probably the oldest structure at Tara, and the royal residence. It is -oval, and 853 feet long from north to south. Within its inclosure are: -Teach Cormaic (Cormac's House), a rath with an outer ring, probably -built by Cormac Mac Art. Its diameter is about one hundred and forty -feet. Next to the northwest, and joined to Teach Cormaic by a common -parapet, is the Forradh ("place of meeting"). Its greatest diameter -being 296 feet and the diameter of the inner circle 88 feet. To the -north of these, but still within the Rath na Riogh, is a mound called -Dumha na n-Giall (Mound of the Hostages), on the flat summit of which -was probably a house wherein dwelt the hostages often required by the -ard-ri of minor kings, of whose fealty he might have doubts. No doubt -the hostages of Niall of the Nine Hostages were kept here. To the west -of this mound are the remains of another, the Dumha na Bo, or Mound of -the Cow. Outside the inclosure of the Rath na Riogh, on the north, is -Rath na Seanaidh, or Rath of the Synods, so called because of the synods -held there by St. Patrick and his successors, though it is of much older -date. - -Upon the summit of the hill is a rude statue of St. Patrick carved in -granite by Mr. Curry, a stone cutter in one of the neighboring towns, -and erected at the expense of local contributors many years ago. It -bears no likeness to any human being, but the motive which erected it -was pure and patriotic, and in a measure it is appropriate because on -Easter morning in the year 433 St. Patrick proclaimed the gospel of -Jesus Christ to the pagan priests and the King of Tara and his court, -standing upon the very spot now occupied by his statue. Father Mathew -once delivered a temperance speech from that holy spot, and in 1843 -Daniel O'Connell addressed a monster meeting, attended by a quarter of a -million people, many of whom came fifty miles or more to hear him -advocate the political emancipation of the Roman Catholic population of -Ireland. The meeting lasted two days and O'Connell spoke twice. It was -one of his last meetings before his arrest and imprisonment at Dublin. -On or near the Mound of the Hostages, according to the best authorities, -stood the "Lia Fail," or "Stone of Destiny," upon which for ages the -monarchs of Ireland were crowned. This stone, according to tradition, -was the pillow of Jacob when he dreamed his dream and when the angels -descended and ascended a golden ladder at his head. It was preserved by -fugitive Israelites at the destruction of Jerusalem and the dispersion -of the tribes, was brought to Ireland with the Ark of the Covenant, and -passed into the possession of the early kings. This stone was carried to -Scotland and preserved at Scone until Edward I. took it to London for -his coronation, and ever since his day it has been the seat of the -coronation chair. All of the kings of England have sat upon it while the -crown of sovereignty was placed upon their heads, from Edward I. to -Edward VII., and any one may see it in the coronation chair at -Westminster Abbey. - -Petrie, one of the highest authorities on Irish history, denies that the -coronation stone of Scone, now in the coronation chair at Westminster -Abbey, is the Lia Fail. He asserts that it never left Tara. And he -believes it is now there--a stone pillar, standing erect on the Forradh, -marking the place of the interment of a number of Irish who were killed -in the rebellion of 1798. It is about eleven feet long, and about half -of its length is in the ground, so that it appears but a rough, unhewn -pillar, five feet three inches high. - -A similar stone was used by the Ulstermen to inaugurate The O'Neill. It -was in a rath at Tullyhogue, near Cookstown, County Tyrone, and was -broken up by an English expedition in the time of Queen Elizabeth. The -Clannaboy O'Neills used an inauguration chair, a fragment of gray -sandstone in the shape of a chair with a high back, without the mark of -chisel upon it--evidently found somewhere just as it was. It was kept at -Castlereagh, on the hills overlooking Belfast on the southeast. It was -found among the ruins of the castle about seventy-five years ago, and is -now in the Museum at Belfast. - -Joyce's "History of Ireland" gives an interesting story of the taking of -the Lia Fail to Scotland: The Irish, or Gaels, or Scots, of Ulster, from -the earliest ages were in the habit of crossing over in their currachs -to the coast of Alban, as Scotland was then called; and some carried on -a regular trade therewith, and many settled there and made it their -home. The Picts often attempted to expel the intruders, but the latter -held their ground, and as time went on occupied more and more of the -western coast and islands. About A.D. 200, a leader named Riada (meaning -the long armed), a grandson of Conn of the Hundred Battles, and first -cousin of Cormac Mac Art, settled among the Picts of Alban with a large -following of Munster fighting men and their families. From him all this -western portion of Scotland was called Dalriada (Riada's portion). There -was also an Irish Dalriada named for him, comprising what is now the -northern portion of County Antrim. The Venerable Bede, in his -"Ecclesiastical History," also gives an account of Riada and his colony. - -About A.D. 503, three brothers, Fergus, Angus, and Loarn, sons of a -chief named Erc, and all Christians (Erc was a direct descendant of -Riada), led a large body of colonists over to Alban. They united with -the previous settlers from Ireland, and took possession of a large -territory, which they formed into a kingdom, of which Fergus, the son of -Erc (hence called Fergus Mac Erc), was made the first king. The Lia Fail -was taken over from Tara in order that Fergus might be inaugurated king -upon it, and was never brought back. So, if this is true, the Stone of -Destiny had been taken from Tara a generation before the curse of St. -Ruadhan caused Tara to be abandoned as a royal residence. - -This Fergus is the reputed ancestor of the Scottish royal family, and -from him, through the Stuarts, descended, in one of his lines of -pedigree, King Edward VII. of England. Gradually the name of Scots, -which was originally that of the people of Ireland, was transferred to -the people of Alban, and the country of the latter finally assumed the -name of Scotland. - -Carrickfergus (the Rock of Fergus) takes its name from this Fergus, the -first Scottish king. He was troubled with some ailment, and went over to -Ireland to use the waters of a well (presumably considered holy). He was -wrecked off the coast, and his body drifted ashore on the strand by the -rock on which the castle is now built; so the rock was named for him. - -Across the valley on the Hill of Skreen, where Cormac took refuge after -his abdication, Father Mathew lived for several years, and the ruins of -an abbey may be found there still. - -So firmly convinced were some antiquarians who have investigated this -place of the truth of the traditions of the coronation stone that they -have dug up the ground in various places and searched for the Jewish Ark -of the Covenant, which they believe was buried here by the Irish priests -to escape capture at the time the palaces of Tara were looted and -destroyed. But they have never been able to find any traces of it. - -In 1798, during the rebellion, a battle was fought on Tara Hill between -a body of about four thousand insurgents, composed chiefly of young -farmers and peasant lads from the neighborhood, against nearly three -thousand well-armed troops, who easily overcame them and put them to -flight. - -The Tara of to-day is a cluster of cottages, a post office, a police -station, a blacksmith shop, a general store, and the inevitable "public -house"--the curse of Ireland. The usual group of loafers were sitting -inside chatting with a slattern behind the bar. It was a filthy place, -and smelled of spilt liquor and bad tobacco, but, as usual, everybody -was very polite to us, and, when we climbed out of the automobile a -lame, round-shouldered, toothless old man came hobbling up to us crying -in a wheezy voice: - -"I'm the guide! I'm the guide! I'm the lawful guide, yer honors, and -I'll show yez around." - -[Illustration: CARRICKFERGUS CASTLE] - -He was so deaf that he couldn't understand us, and he mumbled his words -so that we couldn't understand him, except now and then a word, but he -was so anxious to be of service, so eager to earn a tip, that he would -repeat everything he said again and again, until we were able to -comprehend it. With his crooked stick he pointed the way across the -fields and we followed him. We wouldn't have got much information, -however, had not Mr. Wilkinson, the first citizen of Tara, come to our -rescue. He saw us as we passed his house, which stands a little way down -the road, and, as he explained, "Having nothing better to do, and always -enjoying an opportunity to meet Americans," he fortunately came over and -joined our party and gave us intelligent and interesting explanations. -He is a rugged old gentleman, is Mr. Wilkinson. Although more than -eighty years of age, he "can do as big a day's work, six days in the -week, and enjoy the Lord's day for rest as much as he did when he was -only forty." His great-grandfathers as far back as he knows, like -himself, were born in the cottage in which he lives, and "I've seen -things come and go for many a day," he said. When Mr. Wilkinson had -passed beyond hearing with the ladies, the old guide seized me by the -arm, drew me anxiously to shelter and then in a whisper repeated several -times until I was able to comprehend: - -"'E's the richest man in Tara and in all the country round about. 'E's -worth three thousand pun if he's worth a penny, and he got it from his -father before him. He's a good man, too, and I dunno what we'd do here -without Mr. Wilkinson." - -They led us to the top of the hill, where we could stand beside the spot -once occupied by the coronation stone and admire all Ireland, spread out -like a cyclorama around us. It is one of the most beautiful landscapes -in the universe. There are no mountains, except in the far distance; -there are no rocks or other ungainly objects in view, but as serene and -peaceful and fertile a tract of territory as can be found upon God's -footstool. Ireland is the greenest country that ever was. The turf and -the foliage have a brighter color and a richer luster than those of any -other country. That, however, is not news. The fact was discovered -centuries ago and has been disclosed by every son of old Erin who ever -wrote poetry or prose. But nowhere is there such convincing proof that -the Emerald Isle was appropriately named as is offered from the top of -the Hill of Tara. You cannot transfer the testimony of the fields and -the forests to paper, either with a pen or a brush, and certainly not -with a typewriter. There are no words in the English language sufficient -to convey to another mind what the eyes can see of this glorious -landscape, and it is useless to multiply adjectives. - -"Some sez it's the place of the coronation chair," mumbled the guide, as -we stood on the crest of the hill. "Some sez it's the king's chair; but -I calls it a very commandin' spot. Two years ago," he continued, "some -friends of Lord Dunsany came here. May be they have a son married to his -daughter, I dunno, but she was a very dacent lady. She wouldn't walk any -further than the hall, and she sez, sez she, 'Me man, bide here with -me,' and I sez, sez I, 'Have no fear, me lady, sit here on the soft sod -and I'll go with his lordship, for people are always comin' from -Scotland and Ameriky, and I always shows them about.' There's none else -that can do it so well as meself, and when they came back his lordship -gave me two shillin', and he's a vera dacent man." - -Mr. Wilkinson gave us some interesting history, and repeated many -traditions and legends of the place. He told us how many parties of -archæologists had been here digging for the Ark of the Covenant and had -found nothing but dirt and stone. He took us through the modern -churchyard and opened to us the little sanctuary where Rev. Mr. Handy -preaches every Sunday morning and baptizes into the Church of Ireland -the babies of Tara, that are very numerous in the short, narrow street. -He told us that Mr. Briscoe was the largest landowner in the -neighborhood, and had inherited from several generations the sacred hill -upon which we stood. He had fenced in the remains to keep the cattle out -and kept down the grass so that the outlines of the ruins could be -followed. Mr. Briscoe has recently disposed of nearly all his holdings, -under the new land act, to his tenants, who occupy them, and now nearly -every acre within the range of human vision from the Hill of Tara -belongs to the man who tills it. - -After we had thanked Mr. Wilkinson for his attentions and parted with -him on the roadside, a woman put her head out of one of the cottage -windows and in a stage whisper said: - -"He's the best and richest man in Tara. He's worth every penny of ten -thousand pounds." - -Cambrensis, one of the oldest and earliest writers of Ireland, says: -"There is in Mieth a hill called the Hill of Taragh, whereon is a plaine -twelve score long which was named the King his hall; where the countrie -had their meetings and folkmotes, as a place that was accounted the high -place of the monarch. The historians hammer manie fables in this forge -of Fin Mac Coile and his champions." - -While Tara was the seat of authority for all Ireland, and the center of -military education and display, it was also the place where the bards -used to assemble in early times for competitions in poetry and melody. -Each year the troubadours of Ireland gathered there to recite heroic -epics in praise of their patrons and sing the ballads they had composed -for prizes. These musical and literary tournaments reached their -greatest fame and influence during the days when Cormac Mac Art was -king. He was not only the greatest warrior, but the greatest scholar and -legislator and judge that the Irish knew during the period of which Tara -was their capital. The poems and chronicles of his time describe him as -a model of majesty, magnificence, and manly beauty. He founded three -colleges in the neighborhood of Tara, one for the teaching of law, one -for poetry, literature, history, and music, and the third for military -science. He organized what was known as the "Fena of Erin," a body of -militia remarkable in many respects, which was under the command of Fin -Mac Cool, his son-in-law, who of all the ancient heroes of Ireland is -best remembered in tradition and combined the qualities of Hercules, -Julius Cæsar, and Solomon. - -But no reference in literature to this sacred place is more familiar -than one of the ballads of Tom Moore. Indeed, the great majority of -people never heard of Tara from any other source: - - "The harp that once through Tara's halls - The soul of music shed - Now hangs as mute on Tara's walls - As if that soul were fled. - So sleeps the pride of former days, - So glory's thrill is o'er, - And hearts that once beat high for praise - Now feel that pulse no more! - - "No more to chiefs and ladies bright - The harp of Tara swells; - The chord alone that breaks at night - Its tale of ruin tells. - Thus Freedom now so seldom wakes, - The only throb she gives - Is when some heart indignant breaks - To show that she still lives." - -The history of Tara, the proceedings of the nobles, kings, and learned -men who met there at intervals, with the ard-ri at their head, to devise -laws and promote the welfare of the kingdom, and to transact other -important business, were all written down in a book called the Psalter -of Tara. This book also contained a record of the "fes," or tournaments, -both military and athletic, that were held there, and contained a list -of the prize winners, but, although the Psalter of Tara is frequently -quoted by early writers the original of the book was lost or destroyed -ages ago. - -There are, however, many venerable tomes, epic poems, as well as -history, that illuminate what are usually termed the prehistoric times -in Ireland. The history of this country does not fairly begin until the -time of St. Patrick and the introduction of Christianity and modern -learning. Since then the records are practically complete. The many -monasteries were filled with scriveners who kept a record of events with -considerable detail and probable accuracy. But the more interesting -period lies farther back, when the kings of Tara were in their glory and -the sun shone upon the exploits of half-savage clans that lived by the -chase and not by agriculture, as their descendants do. It is a familiar -joke to say that one's ancestors were kings of Ireland, but there is -more truth than witticism in such remarks. - -There is no reliable authority for the existence of any national -military organization of professional or fighting men in Ireland other -than chiefs, down to the reign of "Conn of the Hundred Battles," who was -monarch at Tara from 123 A.D. to 157 A.D., in which year he was slain. -Still, it is stated that Conn himself came to the throne from the -command of the celebrated national militia, popularly known as the -"Fianna Eireann," of whom the great Finn, Mac Cumhaill, and his father, -Cumhaill, were the most famous commanders, just as many of the Roman -emperors rose to the purple through the backing and from the command of -the Prætorian Guards. This militia of ancient Ireland were accomplished -athletes to a man, and their preparation and competition for enlistment -were most arduous and remarkable. The name Fianna (hence the modern -"Fenians") is explained in an antique glossary preserved in a volume of -the famous "Brehon Laws." There were several severe conditions which -every man who was received into the Fianna was obliged to fulfill. - -The first was that he should not accept any fortune with his wife, but -select her for her beauty, her virtue, and her accomplishments. - -The second was that he should not insult any woman. - -The third was that he should never deny any person asking for food. - -The fourth was that he should not turn his back on less than nine -foemen. - -No man was received into the Fianna until a wide pit had been dug for -him, in which he was to stand up to his knees, with a shield in one hand -and a hazel stake the length of his arm in the other. Nine warriors, -armed with spears, came within a distance of nine ridges of ground of -him and threw their spears at him all at once. Should he be wounded, -despite the shield and hazel staff, he was not received into the order -of the Fianna. - -No man was received into the Fianna until his hair was first braided. He -was then chased by selected runners through a forest, the distance -between them at the start being one tree. If they came up with him he -could not be taken into the Fianna. - -No man was received into the Fianna if his weapons trembled in his -hands. - -No man could be received if a single braid of his hair had been loosened -by a branch as he ran through the forest. - -No man was received into the Fianna whose foot had broken a withered -branch in his course. (This to insure light and careful as well as swift -runners, who left no trail.) - -No man was received unless he could jump over the branch of a tree as -high as his head and stoop under one as low as his knee. - -No man was received unless he could pluck a thorn out of his heel -without coming to a stand. - -And finally, no man could be received until he had first sworn fidelity -and obedience to the king and commander of the Fianna. - -It's a sin that there is no place for visitors to stay at Tara. The -nearest hotel is seven miles away, and the lord of the manor cannot -entertain every American tourist that comes along. I know of no lovelier -landscape or more attractive site for a summer hotel, but I suppose the -patronage would be limited, because Tara is a long way from the railroad -and an automobile costs five guineas a day with an allowance of seven -shillings for the board and lodging of the chauffeur and whatever -gasoline may be used. - -We were sorry to leave the historic place. One is sorry to leave almost -every place in Ireland. It is such a fascinating country. But the next -stop will develop something else quite as novel and interesting as it -did to us at Castle Dunsany, the ancient home of the Plunkett family. - -The "Annals of the Four Masters" relate that there were fierce lords -upon the road from Dublin to Tara, and that if the traveler was not -robbed by the Lord of Dunsany Castle he would be robbed by the Lord of -Killeen, and if he managed to escape Killeen he was sure to be robbed at -Dunsany. These two famous places stand on both sides of the highway not -more than a mile apart, and, although both have been restored and -remodeled for modern occupants they are still very old and associated -with much interesting history. Dunsany Castle was built by Hugh de Lacy -about the middle of the twelfth century. Killeen Castle was the seat of -the Earl of Fingal. Both are surrounded by magnificent demesnes or -wooded parks inclosed with high walls and filled with game, according to -the Irish custom. Near by Castle Dunsany, in the midst of a glorious -grove of trees that have been growing there for centuries, are the -roofless walls of the ancient Church of St. Nicholas, rebuilt upon the -site of an older sanctuary by Nicholas Plunkett in the fifteenth century -and named in honor of his patron saint. His sarcophagus is in the center -surrounded by other tombs of the Plunkett family for several -generations. At Killeen is another church of similar age and in similar -condition, and that also contains the monuments of the founder and his -family for many generations. - -Hugh de Lacy was the original owner and occupier of the Abbey of -Bective, one of the finest of the many ruins in this section, and in its -time a very important establishment. He was a Norman knight of ancient -French family, who came over with Strongbow at the first English -invasion of Ireland and was given the Province of Meath for his -possessions. Although not the greatest fighter, he was the wisest and -best governor of all the barons who served Henry II. in Ireland. He -built strong castles in all parts of Meath, including Castle Dunsany and -Castle Killeen, and greatly increased his power and influence by -marrying a daughter of the old king of this province, Roderick O'Conor. -He was accused of conspiring to make himself King of Ireland, and did -not live to clear himself of the charge. One day while he was -superintending the building of a new castle at Durrow a young Irishman -drew a battle ax that was concealed under his cloak, and with one blow -cut off the great baron's head. The murderer afterward explained that it -was done to revenge the desecration of a venerated oratory that had once -been occupied by St. Columba and had been torn away by De Lacy. - -Hugh de Lacy's son and namesake, after his father's death, attempted to -seize the throne of Connaught and was betrayed and killed in the -Cathedral of Downpatrick on Good Friday in the year 1204, where, -barefooted and unarmed, he was saying his prayers and doing penance for -his sins. When he was attacked he seized the nearest weapon, a large -brass crucifix, and dashed out the brains of thirteen of his assailants -with it before he was overpowered. When the elder Hugh de Lacy was -murdered his head was taken to the Abbey of St. Thomas, in Dublin, -according to the terms of his will, made several years previous. The -monks demanded the remainder of the body, but the abbot of Bective would -not surrender it until he had been commanded to do so by the pope. - - - - - XIII - - SAINT PATRICK AND HIS SUCCESSOR - - -The little cathedral city of Armagh (pronounced with a strong accent -upon the last syllable) is the most sacred town of Ireland. It is the -ecclesiastical headquarters of both the Roman Catholic and the -Protestant churches, the seat of the most ancient and celebrated of -Irish schools of learning; the burial place of Brian Boru, the greatest -of all the Irish kings; the home of St. Patrick for the most important -years of his life, and the cradle of the Christian church in the United -Kingdom. It was from Armagh that the message of the gospel was sent to -the people of Scotland and England, and there was the genesis of the -faith that is now professed by all the nation. - -Armagh is a quiet, well kept town of about eight thousand inhabitants, -built on a hill around the cathedral founded by St. Patrick in the year -432, and the streets are steep and rather crooked. It resembles an -English university town, and looks more like Cambridge or Winchester -than the rest of Ireland. More than twelve hundred years ago it was the -greatest educational center in the civilized world, and it still has -several important schools, including a Roman Catholic theological -seminary, a large convent for young women, a technological school, an -astronomical observatory, a public library of twenty thousand volumes -and a little old-fashioned Grecian temple of a building with a sign to -advertise it as the rooms of the Philosophical Society. The houses are -packed together very closely, as is the custom in all Ireland, although -there is plenty of room for the town to spread out, if it were the -fashion to do so. There are ranges of green hills all around, and their -sunny slopes are closely planted to grain, and other crops. We saw them -at harvest time when the song of the reaper and the mower was heard in -the land. There are several linen factories in the neighborhood which -furnish employment for the wives and daughters of the town, and a small -automobile factory. The population is about equally divided between -Protestant and Roman Catholic faiths. There are three Presbyterian -churches and one Methodist, which assert themselves boldly even in the -presence of an ecclesiastical see that is nearly fourteen hundred years -old. - -'Way back about the year 444 St. Patrick came to Armagh and built a -church and a monastery upon the summit of a beautiful hill overlooking a -most delightful country, where he established his ecclesiastical -headquarters as Primate of Ireland. The land was given him by the King, -whose royal palace stood there for centuries, and that estate has -remained in the possession of the church ever since and is now occupied -partly by the demesne that surrounds the palace of the Protestant -archbishop and partly by the residences and business houses of the town, -and the ground rents furnish a handsome endowment. The ancient episcopal -palace is now occupied by the Rev. Dr. Alexander, Protestant Archbishop -of Armagh and Primate of the Episcopal Church of Ireland. - -Across the valley, upon a similar hill, is another cathedral, also -dedicated to the glory of God and St. Patrick, and behind it, in a much -more modest mansion, is the residence of Cardinal Logue, Roman Catholic -Archbishop of Armagh, Primate of Ireland and a member of the sacred -college of Rome. Thus in the same little town we have two cathedrals of -St. Patrick, two archbishops of Armagh, and two primates of the Holy -Catholic church, both claiming ecclesiastical authority inherited from -St. Patrick, founder of the Christian church in Ireland, and first -archbishop of Armagh, through one hundred and fourteen generations of -archbishops who have lived and prayed and reigned in this picturesque -little place. - -In several cities there are two archbishops or bishops, one Roman -Catholic and one of the Church of Ireland, and the duplication is often -the cause of embarrassment and confusion. If you are seeking or even -mentioning one of them it is necessary to make yourself clear by giving -the name of the church or the name of the man as well as the title. I -once addressed a letter to "His Grace, the Archbishop of Dublin," and it -was returned to me from the post office for more definite address. The -post-office authorities would not take the risk of delivering it to the -wrong man. - -Archbishop Alexander and Cardinal Logue are the best of friends and see -each other frequently, co-operating in works of charity and movements of -public interest with cordiality and mutual esteem. When I was in Armagh -Cardinal Logue had recently returned from a visit to America, where he -went to assist in the celebration of the anniversary of the founding of -the diocese of New York. He was enthusiastic about his reception and -what he saw and did in the United States. He is a man of great dignity, -ability, and usefulness, but with all has a keen sense of humor and a -jolly disposition. - -The town of Armagh is surrounded by scenes of transcendent historic and -ecclesiastical interest. On a lovely hillside is a holy spring where St. -Patrick baptized his first converts. A little farther away is a large -artificial mound, about eleven acres in extent, covered with aged -hawthorn trees, where stood the royal palace of Ulster, and it was -occupied for a century after the arrival of St. Patrick. Within the -grounds of the Protestant archbishop are the remains of a Franciscan -monastery and a well beside which St. Bridget lived for several years. -Eastward of the town, upon the hills, was located the ancient Catholic -University of Armagh founded by St. Patrick in the year 455, where as -many as seven thousand students gathered for instruction in literature, -the arts, and theology, and until the Reformation it was one of the -greatest schools of Europe. - -Emania, now called the "Navan Fort," the residence of the kings of -Ulster, was founded by Queen Macha of the Golden Hair, whose legend is -most interesting. It was founded about 300 B.C. It was a royal residence -for six hundred years or more. It was then destroyed by the three -Collas, and has remained a waste ever since. St. Patrick came nearly a -century after its destruction. The petty king, Daire, who gave a site to -St. Patrick, was probably king of Oriel, or possibly of one of the -tribes which composed the kingdom of Oriel, or Oirgialla. Professor -Bury, in his "Life of St. Patrick" says: - -"King Daire ... dwelt in the neighborhood of the ancient fortress of -Emania, which his own ancestors had destroyed a hundred years agone, -when they had come from the south to wrest the place from the Ulidians -[Ulidia is Ulster] and sack the palace of its lords. The conquerors did -not set up their abode in the stronghold of the old kings of Ulster; -they burned the timber buildings and left the place desolate." - -Patrick's first foundation was not on the hill where the old cathedral -now stands. He asked that site of Daire, but the latter refused, and -gave him a site at the foot of the hill instead. The original church of -St. Patrick is believed to have stood somewhere about the spot whereon -the branch Bank of Ireland now stands in Armagh. Bury says of the -original structures of Patrick: - -"The simple houses which were needed for a small society of monks were -built, and there is a record, which appears to be ancient and credible, -concerning these primitive buildings. A circular space was marked out -one hundred and forty feet in diameter, and inclosed by a rampart of -earth. Within this were erected, doubtless of wood, a 'great house' to -be the dwelling of the monks, a kitchen, and a small oratory." - -Ultimately, King Daire gave Patrick the hill he coveted, then called -Drum-saileach, the "ridge of the willows." The story is quaintly -interesting. Daire brought to Patrick a bronze cooking-pot, as a mark of -respect. Patrick merely said in Latin, "Gratias agamus" ("I thank -thee"). This sounded, in the unlearned ears of the king, like -"gratzacham." Daire was annoyed that the pot should be received with no -greater sign of satisfaction. So, when he reached home, he sent -servants to bring back the cooking-pot, as something which the monk was -not able to appreciate. When they came back with the pot, Daire asked -what Patrick said, and was told "Gratzacham." "What," said Daire, -"'gratzacham' when it was given, and 'gratzacham' when it was taken -away! It is a good word, and for his 'gratzacham' he shall have his -cooking-pot." Then he went himself with the pot to Patrick, and said, -"Keep thy cooking-pot, for thou art a steadfast and unchangeful man." -And he gave Patrick, besides, the hill on which the old cathedral -stands. - -The name Armagh is derived from that of Macha of the Golden Hair. It is -"Ard-Macha," that is, "Macha's Height." The legend is that she was -buried on the hill where the cathedral stands, and that it was named for -her in consequence. But some seven hundred years passed before Patrick -obtained the hill; its name had been changed to "Drum-saileach"; but -Patrick seems to have revived the old name. A spurious derivation is -given by some--"Ardmagh," the high plain; but there is no "high plain" -there, and the "Four Masters" give it Ard-Macha. - -Naturally, the object of supreme interest at Armagh is the ancient -Cathedral of St. Patrick, the cradle of the Christian church in Ireland. -The present building, however, dates back only to the seventeenth -century, although portions of the walls were built as long ago as 830, -when "the great stone church of Armagh" is described in detail in the -"Annals of Armagh," one of the oldest of human records. The church was -partly destroyed by fire in 1268 and rebuilt. In 1367 it was restored -again. During the rebellion in the reign of Queen Elizabeth it was used -as a fortress by Shane O'Neill and burned by him. In 1613 it was -thoroughly rebuilt, and in 1834 was restored to its present condition by -Lord George Beresford, the wealthy archbishop of that date. - -Although it has often been asserted that St. Patrick is buried in -Armagh, no such claim is made here, and the authorities of both the -Irish and the Roman Catholic churches accept the tomb at Downpatrick as -genuine. But the old cathedral is the burial place of several other of -the early saints, and somewhere under the tiling on the north side of -the high altar lies the moldering dust of Brian Boru, the greatest of -all the Irish kings, whose bleeding body was brought there after the -battle of Clontarf in 1014, in obedience to his dying request. There is -no trace of his tomb, which was destroyed centuries ago. All of the -tombs within the church are comparatively modern. The oldest epitaph in -the churchyard dates back to 1620, and most of the graves contain the -dust of archbishops who have presided over this diocese. In the east and -west aisles, in the center of the cathedral, are two beautiful -sarcophagi of white Italian marble, carved by an eminent artist with -effigies of two Beresfords, John George and Marcus Servais Beresford, -father and son, who were successive archbishops of Armagh. The principal -windows contain artistic memorials to their wives, Lady Catherine and -Lady Anne Beresford. - -After the Reformation the few Roman Catholic residents of Armagh who -remained true to the church of Rome worshiped in "the old chapel," as it -is called, a humble structure erected in the seventeenth century to mark -the site of the house where St. Malachi was born in 1094. And when the -primatial see was revived at Armagh by the pope that old church was made -the cathedral of Ireland. In 1835 Archbishop Crolly undertook to raise -funds for a more appropriate building, and obtained two acres of land on -the other side of town, adjoining Sandy Hill Cemetery, which is the -oldest Christian burial place in the United Kingdom. His successors have -since obtained seven acres more, and hope ultimately to secure a larger -area. In 1840 Mr. Duff, a native architect, prepared plans for a -cathedral of massive proportions, and the corner stone was laid on St. -Patrick's day of that year. A building committee of laymen was formed -and priests were sent through the length and breadth of the land, and, -indeed, throughout the world, to collect funds. Generous gifts came from -the United States, from Canada, from Australia, and from every other -country where Irish emigrants have gone, and a great bazaar was held in -1865 at which $35,000 was raised. The exterior was not completed until -1873, when the finishing touches were added to the spires, and on the -24th of August the temple was dedicated, as the inscription over the -entrance reads, "To the One God, Omnipotent Three in Person, under the -invocation of St. Patrick, Apostle of Ireland." Dr. M'Gettigan was -archbishop then, and he lived until 1887, when he was succeeded by -Michael Logue, who had been chosen as his coadjutor by the parish -priests of Armagh. - -Cardinal Logue was born in County Donegal in 1840, graduated from -Maynooth College and was ordained in 1866. For several years he was -professor of theology and belles lettres in the Irish College at Paris. -In 1876 he was made dean of Maynooth and professor of dogmatic and moral -theology. The following year, at the age of thirty-nine, he was -consecrated Bishop of Raphoe and for eight years labored among the -people of his native county with great energy and usefulness until he -came to Armagh. In January, 1893, he was elevated to the college of -cardinals, a dignity never before attained even by the greatest of the -long line of one hundred and fourteen primates since St. Patrick that -have presided over this see. - -Immediately after going to Armagh in 1887 to assist his venerable -predecessor, Cardinal Logue began to raise funds to complete the -interior of the cathedral, which was then undecorated and fitted with -temporary altars and seats. His appeals to Irish patriotism were -responded to with great generosity, and in 1899 he organized the -National Cathedral Bazaar, as it was called, which continued for two -years and resulted in raising $150,000 to complete the cathedral, so -that on July 24, 1904, the building was again solemnly dedicated with a -great pageant and impressive ceremonies at which his Holiness, the Pope, -was represented by his Eminence, Cardinal Bishop Vincente Vanuetelli. - -[Illustration: ST. PATRICK'S CATHEDRAL AT ARMAGH, THE SEAT OF CARDINAL -LOGUE, THE ROMAN CATHOLIC PRIMATE OF IRELAND] - -Cardinal Logue resides in a modest mansion in the rear of the cathedral, -between the synod house and the theological seminary. Many a parish -priest in Ireland and America lives in greater style. His manner of life -illustrates the simplicity of his character and tastes. His lack of -ostentation is one of his most charming traits. - -It seems very remarkable that St. Patrick, St. Bridget, and St. Columba, -the three saints most venerated by Ireland, should be buried in the same -grave in an obscure little churchyard at the village of Downpatrick, -about twenty miles south of Belfast. There is nothing in the way of -documentary evidence to prove that the bodies of St. Bridget and St. -Columba were placed in St. Patrick's tomb, but the fact is stated in the -earliest histories of the church in Ireland, and is frequently referred -to by writers in the tenth century and later. And the claims of -Downpatrick to this great honor are not seriously disputed. - -The "Annals of the Four Masters" refer to the death of St. Bridget in -525 as follows: "On February first, St. Bridget died and was interred at -Dun [Down] in the same tomb with St. Patrick, with great honor and -veneration." - -St. Patrick died in the year 465 at the Monastery of Saul, which he had -founded at Downpatrick. It was his wish to be buried at Armagh, then, as -now, the ecclesiastical headquarters of Ireland, and during the twelve -days given up to mourning and funeral ceremonies a controversy arose -between the monks of Armagh and those of Downpatrick, who claimed the -body and insisted upon its burial in their cloisters. A wise old friar -suggested that the decision be left to heaven, and after saying mass the -coffin was placed upon a wagon and two young oxen were taken from the -field and yoked for the first time. It was agreed that they should be -started along the road to Armagh, and that wherever they stopped the -grave of St. Patrick should be made. The oxen commenced their journey -and the rival bodies of monks retired to their cloisters to pray. - -The "Book of Armagh," written in the year 802, and now in the library of -Trinity College, Dublin, duly relates that, after proceeding for two -miles down the road slowly, the oxen turned from the main thoroughfare -and rested at Dundalethglass, the site of the present Cathedral of Down. -The monks from Armagh submitted to the will of heaven, and there the -sacred dust was laid. Shortly after this, about 495, a church was built -upon the site now occupied by the present edifice. It was rebuilt in the -twelfth century, a considerable portion of the original walls being -retained and several interior arches. And those walls and arches remain -to-day. It is therefore the oldest structure in Ireland and is entitled -to the veneration it receives. It stands in a grove upon the summit of a -hill, a plain, dignified pile of perfect proportions, with a square -tower and four spires--in no way imposing, but beautiful in its -simplicity. - -[Illustration: DOWN CATHEDRAL, DOWNPATRICK, WHERE ST. PATRICK LIVED, AND -IN THE CHURCHYARD OF WHICH HE WAS BURIED] - -The interior of the church is said to be precisely as it was originally -built, there having been no change in the arrangement. And most of the -columns which sustain the arches and several of the arches were a part -of the original building. The "Annals of Ulster" give the names of the -abbots who had charge of the monastery that was built in connection with -the church, as far back as the year 583, although there are several wide -gaps in the records of the eighth, ninth, and thirteenth centuries. The -abbey was plundered and partially destroyed on no less than eight -occasions, between the years 824 and 1111, and the "Annals of Ulster" -give the particulars of each invasion. In 1177 Sir John de Courcy, the -most powerful and able lieutenant of Strongbow, who assumed authority -over the kingdom of Ulster, made Downpatrick his principal residence and -erected there a strong castle, the greater portion of which remained -until about half a century ago. At his time the church and the monastery -were occupied by Augustinian monks, who were driven out by De Courcy and -replaced by Benedictines from the Abbey of Chester, England, and the -church was rededicated in honor of St. Patrick, having previously borne -the name of the Holy Trinity. And De Courcy gave the abbey a liberal -endowment. He also erected a Celtic cross, which is believed to be the -same that was recently recovered in fragments, carefully mended and -placed in the churchyard. Among the endowments of the Downpatrick abbey -were four of the principal ferries across the rivers of Ulster, -forty-seven "town lands," which probably correspond to our townships, -and every tenth animal upon the farms of Ulster. Of the extensive -monastic building erected by De Courcy's generosity not a trace remains -except the foundations, and these are covered with the accumulated -débris of four centuries. The inhabitants of Downpatrick and all the -country around have used the ruin as a quarry for building material. -Nearly all of the old houses in the village are made of materials from -that source. - -The monastery was plundered and burned by Edward Bruce, brother of -Robert Bruce, the Scottish chieftain, who caused himself to be -proclaimed King of Ireland in 1315. It was rebuilt and burned again in -1512. Lord Grey, who was sent over by King Henry VIII. to quiet Ireland, -profaned and destroyed it, as he did everything else in this section, in -his attempts to exterminate the O'Neills. Lord Grey was executed in the -Tower of London in 1541. The fourth charge in the indictment against him -was that "He rased St. Patrick's, his church, in the old ancient citie -of Ulster and burnt the monument of Patricke, Brided and Colme, who are -said to have been there intoombed. That without onie warrant from the -King or Councill he profaned the Church of St. Patrick in Downe, turning -it into a stable after plucked it down and ship the notable ring of Bels -that did hang in the steeple, meaning to have sent them to England, had -not God of His Justice prevented his iniquitie by sinking the vessels -and passengers wherein the said bells should have been conveied." - -The "Annals of Ulster," under date of 1538, record that "the monastery -of Downe was burned and the relics of Patrick, Columcille Briget and the -image of Catherine were carried off." - -The oldest inscription in the church is on a tombstone erected to the -memory of Edward, Lord Cromwell and Baron Oakham, no relative of Oliver -Cromwell, but a great-grandson of Thomas Cromwell, the famous minister -of Henry VIII., who, after the pacification of the country obtained -possession of the Downpatrick estates, which continued in his family -until 1832, when they were purchased by David Kerr, and in 1874 sold to -the late Lord Dunleath, who now owns the largest part of the surrounding -country. - -At the time of the Reformation, the monks of Downpatrick refused to -subscribe to the new ordinances and were driven out of the monastery. -The history of Downpatrick is quite vague from that time until affairs -quieted down, but from 1662 the records are complete. - -Rev. John Wesley visited Downpatrick in 1778, and in his diary he -describes the ruins of the Abbey of Saul as "far the largest building I -have ever seen in the kingdom. Adjoining it is one of the most beautiful -groves which I have ever beheld with my eyes. It covers the sloping side -of the hill and has vistas cut through it every way. There is a most -lovely plain very near to the venerable ruins of the cathedral." Wesley -visited Downpatrick on four different occasions between 1778 and 1785, -and during each visit preached in the grove he describes, using as a -pulpit the pedestal upon which a statue of St. Patrick formerly stood. - -Perhaps the most celebrated resident of Downpatrick was Rev. Jeremy -Taylor, who, while bishop of this diocese, wrote his famous book, "Holy -Living and Holy Dying." - -Nothing but the irregular surface of the ground upon a hill about two -miles from Downpatrick marks the site of the ancient Monastery of Saul, -which from the time it was founded by St. Patrick in 432 was for several -centuries one of the most celebrated and influential educational -institutions in the world. Like the monastery at Armagh, only twenty -miles away, which was also founded by St. Patrick about the same time, -it was attended annually by thousands of students from England, -Scotland, France, Spain, and other countries of the continent to hear -and absorb the learning of the Augustinian and afterward the Benedictine -monks. Unfortunately, however, no records remain of the institutions -farther than an occasional reference in the "Annals of Ulster." - -The sanctity of the place, however, is recognized by Christians of every -race and sect, although the grave of St. Patrick--and of two other -saints--which is a hundred feet from the entrance to the old cathedral -church, is marked only by an enormous granite bowlder, almost as nature -made it, bearing no inscription except the word "Patric" in celtic -letters beneath a celtic cross chiseled on the surface of the stone. It -is a most appropriate monument in its simple dignity, and one that you -might imagine that St. Patrick would have preferred rather than a lofty -and ornate tower. It is rather curious, however, that no movement has -ever been started to erect an imposing memorial here; there is no -evidence that any monument of size ever marked the grave, although the -three most venerated saints in the Irish calendar lie here together. A -distich, said to have been written by Sir John de Courcy in 1185, says: - - "Hi tres Duno tumulo tumulantur in uno; - Brigidam, Patricius atque Colomba Pius"; - -which is liberally translated as follows: - - "Three Saints in Down, one grave do fill; - Saints Patrick, Bridget and Columbkill." - -Downpatrick is visited annually by thousands of pilgrims. The town is -practically supported by them, and the tomb has to be guarded against -vandalism, particularly on Sundays, Good Friday, Easter, and other -religious holidays. Relic hunters have carried away tons of earth from -about the grave, which they dig up with their fingers or trowels or -sticks and consign to bottles, boxes, or baskets. As soon as the -cavities become too large, the custodian hauls a cart of soil from the -nearest field and fills them up. - -It is asserted in the guide book that St. Patrick was never canonized by -the pope, and that he is recognized as a saint only by the Irish people. -This is a singular assertion. The Roman Catholic prayer book used in -Ireland mentions March 17, the feast of St. Patrick, as one of the holy -days upon which there is strict obligation to attend mass and to -refrain from all unnecessary labor. - -According to the best authorities, St. Patrick was born at Nemthur (the -Holy Tower), now known as Dumbarton, Scotland, in the year 387, and his -father, Palpurn, was a magistrate in the service of the Romans. When he -was sixteen, in the year 403, Patrick was taken captive and sold as a -slave. A rich man named Milcho brought him to Ireland and employed him -to herd sheep and swine in County Antrim. At the end of six years of -slavery he escaped, returned to his home and family and then went to a -monastic school at Tours, France. After receiving his education and -being ordained he went to Rome, where he was blessed by Pope Celestine -and commissioned to go to Ireland as a missionary. He landed at the -mouth of a little stream called the Slaney, only about two miles from -Saul, and settled at Downpatrick, where the chief gave him the use of a -sabhall or barn for divine service, and upon that site was erected the -famous monastery which took its name, Saul, from the barn. He remained -there for several years, teaching and training disciples, and then -visited every part of the island, preaching the gospel to the kings and -chiefs as well as to the poor half-civilized habitants of the mountains. -He founded many churches and monasteries in different places and finally -settled down at Armagh as Bishop of Ireland in 457, where he remained -for eight years. In March, 465, when he was seventy-eight years old, -while paying a visit to the monastery of Saul, the scene of his first -ministrations in Ireland, he was seized with a fatal illness and -breathed his last. The news of his death was the signal for universal -mourning in Ireland, and thousands of the clergy and laity came from the -remotest districts to pay their last tributes of love and respect to the -greatest of missionaries. - -[Illustration: THE VILLAGE OF DOWNPATRICK] - -St. Bridget, who ranks next to St. Patrick in the veneration of the -Irish, was the daughter of a nobleman, and was born at Fochard, a -village near Armagh, in the year 453. Her great beauty and her father's -wealth and position caused her to be sought in marriage by several of -the princes of Ireland, but early in life she became a convert to the -new religion, consecrated herself to its service, and retired to a -forest near Kildare, about twenty miles from Dublin. She built herself a -cell in the trunk of a great oak, around which grew a great religious -community. She died Feb. 1, 525, at the age of seventy-two years. For -many years the nuns of Kildare kept a light burning constantly in her -memory. "The bright light that shone in Kildare's holy flame" was -suppressed, however, by the Archbishop of Dublin for fear it would be -interpreted as a pagan practice. - -The body of St. Bridget was originally buried at Kildare, but in the -year 1185 was translated with great solemnity to Downpatrick, attended -by the pope's legate, fifteen bishops, and a great number of clergy. Her -head was carried to the convent of Neustadt, Austria, and in 1587 was -removed to the Church of the Jesuits in Lisbon. - -St. Columba, or St. Columbkill, died while kneeling before the altar of -his church on the Island of Iona, a little after midnight, Jan. 9, 597. -He was originally buried in his monastery, and his body was removed to -Downpatrick the same year as that of St. Bridget. - - - - - XIV - - THE SINN FEIN MOVEMENT - - -The Sinn Fein movement (pronounced "shinn fane") which promised so much -is not making great progress. Some of its principles are admirable, and -from a sentimental standpoint appeal to the patriotism of every -Irishman, but the management is in the hands of impractical amateurs who -have antagonized the Roman Catholic church, and that would be fatal to -any movement in Ireland or any other country where three-fourths of the -population profess that faith and the priesthood are as powerful as in -Ireland. Furthermore, the young men who are directing affairs have gone -into politics and have attempted to buck against the nationalist party, -which controls three-fourths of the Irish vote. For these reasons the -movement has suffered a setback, and it is doubtful whether it will ever -recover the impetus it acquired two or three years ago. If it had been -kept out of politics and out of religion like the Gaelic League, for -example, which is aiming at a portion of the same objects, it might have -done an immense amount of good. The leaders are earnest but -inexperienced; they are long on ideas but short on common sense, and -have more principles than votes, as has been illustrated at recent -elections in Ireland. The leaders of the national party, bearing the -scars of many political contests and familiar with all the tricks of -their trade, regard the Sinn Fein advocates as enthusiastic schoolboys -and play with them as a mastiff plays with a puppy. - -The Sinn Feiners have formally demanded that the nationalist party shall -abandon its present policy and adopt their platform--a proposition which -its leaders consider very amusing, but when you can persuade them to -discuss it seriously they say that they have accomplished too much and -are too near the goal of home rule to abandon the present programme and -adopt one that is new and untried. - -Sinn Fein means "for ourselves," and those two Celtic words describe the -policy and the purpose of the organization. It demands that Ireland -stand alone and work out her salvation by her own efforts, absolutely -boycotting the British government, which they declare is the only enemy -of Ireland and the cause of all the evils and the ills that afflict the -Irish people. It is an imitation of the policy adopted by Ferencz Deák -in the contest with Austria for Hungarian independence from 1849 to -1867. He organized a vast movement of passive resistance. Under his -leadership the Hungarians refused to pay taxes unless levied and -collected by their own officials; they refused to send Hungarian -representatives to the imperial parliament; they built up an educational -and administrative system of their own, and in less than twenty years -achieved practical independence for Hungary, the right to make their own -laws and administer their own government. The chief weapon was a -national boycott, and it was successful. - -In 1903 a young newspaper man named Arthur Griffith conceived the idea -of applying the Hungarian policy to Ireland and boycotting the British -government. He wrote a good deal for the newspapers, went around the -island holding public meetings, organizing local societies, appealing to -the patriotic sentiments of the young men of the country, and started a -weekly newspaper as an organ of the cause. At first it was understood -that the Sinn Feiners would abstain from politics like the Gaelic -League, but the refusal of the politicians to join or assist them -provoked animosities, and in retaliation the Sinn Feiners nominated -candidates for several offices, who were in sympathy with them. This -developed a positive contest, the Sinn Fein movement was placed under -the ban by the Irish parliamentary leaders and soon became an -independent political party. - -A similar collision occurred with the Roman Catholic church chiefly -because the ardent young leaders did not consult the priests and obtain -the indorsement of the hierarchy, which might have approved the -programme with some revision. The misunderstanding was allowed to grow -until now the Sinn Feiners are under the ban of the church as well as -that of the United Irish League and the parliamentary party, and the -opposition of those three powers cannot be overcome or even resisted. -Therefore the movement is doomed to failure. Nevertheless, the Sinn -Feiners have succeeded in electing several of their number to office on -their own platform. They now have twelve out of eighty members of the -Dublin common council and board of aldermen, and in other cities of -Ireland they have representatives in official positions. Not long ago -they nominated a candidate for the House of Commons in the North Leitrim -district, notwithstanding the fact that the first plank in their -programme demands the complete boycott of the British parliament. It was -an Irish bull and naturally excited much ridicule, but the Sinn Feiners -succeeded in polling 1,100 out of a total of 6,000 votes, which was a -great deal more than any one expected. - -Some time ago the national council of the party devised a scheme for -raising money to establish a daily newspaper. They printed and offered -for sale very pretty postage stamps and asked everybody to buy them and -place them on their letters in addition to the portrait of King Edward, -which is required by act of parliament. It was a fatal error, because it -was an absolute failure and disclosed the weakness of the movement and -the insincerity of its members. I am told that less than five per cent -of the stamps printed were ever disposed of. - -Some of the propositions in the programme of the Sinn Fein party, as I -have already said, appeal very strongly to the patriotism of the Irish -people; others are so fantastic as to destroy confidence in the judgment -of its leaders. For example, they issued an urgent appeal to the -newspapers and to the public to use no paper or stationery except of -Irish manufacture, which might have been to the advantage of the country -if there were any paper mills in Ireland. Again, they advocate Irish -ownership of all public utilities. They want Irish capitalists to buy up -the stock of all the railways and street car lines and other public -enterprises and employ none but Irishmen in their administration, which -might be done if there were a good deal more capital in the country; but -as long as the Irish people are too poor to pay for the stock, it would -seem a little premature for them to undertake to carry out the Sinn Fein -recommendations. - -The first plank in the programme of the Sinn Fein platform is a national -Irish legislature endowed with moral authority to enact laws and -recommend policies for the adoption of the Irish people. This -legislature is to be composed of the members of the county councils, the -poor-law boards and harbor boards of all Ireland, to sit twice a year in -Dublin, and to form a _de facto_ Irish parliament. Associated with and -sitting with this body would be the present Irish members of the House -of Commons and their successors representing the constituencies as at -present defined. Before taking this step, however, it is proposed that -the Irish members of the House of Commons should make a dramatic -demonstration in parliament, to emphasize the significance of their -retirement. They are to rise in their seats and formally decline any -longer to confer on the affairs of Ireland with foreigners in a foreign -city. - -Among other functions of the proposed Irish legislature shall be the -assessment of a tax of one penny to the pound--that is, two cents for -every five dollars' worth of property--without regard to present -taxation, and thus acquire a fund "to serve and strengthen the country -in bringing about the triumph of the Sinn Fein policy." This fund would -be used in the payment of bounties to develop Irish industries, to -establish libraries of Irish literature and museums of arts and -antiquities; to establish gymnasiums for the physical training of the -young people and schools for their moral training and discipline and -instruction in Irish history. - -The first laws to be passed by the legislature would exclude all goods -of English manufacture from Ireland, prohibit the use of foreign -articles by the government, forbid the appointment of any but natives of -Ireland to public positions, withhold support from newspapers which -publish emigration advertisements, require the study of the Celtic -language in all the schools for certain hours and prepare text-books so -that no other language would be necessary in instruction, raise the -standard of wages among workingmen, increase their proficiency by -technical instruction, develop the resources and industries of the -country, and extend the area of tilled soil and the planting of forests. - -After having accomplished these objects the Irish legislature, according -to the programme of the Sinn Fein, should establish a national -university, open and free to the poor as well as the rich, with none but -Irish instructors and the Celtic language substituted for the English. - -Next a union of manufacturers and farmers for co-operation, both -pledging themselves to use none but Irish goods and products so far as -possible. In cases where an Irish manufacturer cannot produce an article -as cheaply as it is produced in England or other countries he is to be -paid a bounty or protected by a tariff similar to that which has -advanced the prosperity of the mechanical industries of the United -States. - -The next step is to establish an Irish mercantile marine similar to that -of Scotland and Norway. Ireland has no steamers; Scotland has many and, -according to the Sinn Feiners, there is no reason why there should not -be as large a fleet sailing from that country. - -It is proposed to establish an independent consular service of Irishmen -in the principal capitals and commercial centers of the world where a -market may be found for Irish produce. These consuls are to act -independently of the regular representatives of Great Britain and devote -themselves entirely to Irish interests. - -The proposed parliament shall take immediate steps to plant trees all -over the island, which, it is asserted, will result in raising the mean -temperature at least four degrees and thus render the soil doubly -fruitful. The tree planting is to be done under the direction of the -poor-law boards, which are to employ the inmates of the poor-houses so -far as their physical condition will permit, in planting, watering, and -looking after the young trees. - -The parliament is to establish national courts of law entirely -independent of the present courts which are to be entirely boycotted by -the people. It is declared to be the duty of every Irishman to submit -all disputes to the arbitration of his neighbors who are to serve -without pay. The national courts are to be composed of the justices of -the peace already elected by the people, who shall sit outside the -regular legal hours and terms of court, so as to avoid complications. - -A national stock exchange is to be established which shall deal only in -Irish securities, and a system of banks which shall limit their dealings -to natives of Ireland and encourage the transfer of the $250,000,000 of -Irish money alleged to be now deposited in the English banks and -invested in English securities, to Irish banks and Irish securities, and -to encourage its investments in active industries and public works, to -develop the resources of Ireland and to give employment to Irish labor. - -One of the principal planks in the Sinn Fein platform is to boycott the -British army and navy. It is asserted that Ireland supplies more -fighting men for the British empire than England; that 354 Irishmen out -of every 10,000 of its population are British soldiers, while only 276 -out of every 10,000 in England go into the army. If the Irish would -refuse to enlist it would paralyze the military service of the empire, -and deal a serious blow to British prosperity by drawing a large number -of the employees of the shops and factories into the army and navy. - -Another form of boycott recommended is for all Irishmen to refuse -appointments in the British civil service and the constabulary on the -theory that every Irishman who accepts employment from the British -government takes up arms against Ireland and becomes the active enemy of -his country, "being employed to keep a hostile country up, and to keep -his own country down." - -A plank in the platform in which we are directly interested advocates an -invitation of the natives of Ireland in America to invest their money in -the development of Irish industries and resources. It says: "There are -in the United States to-day thirty Irishmen or men of Irish blood whose -names on a cheque would be good for £50,000,000. Few of these men take -any public part in affairs, but all of them profess in private a desire -to help Ireland. We invite them as men of business to undertake a work -which will be mutually profitable to themselves and to Ireland." - -These propositions are embodied in a manifesto which has been printed -and widely circulated throughout Ireland to explain the purpose of the -Sinn Fein movement, and they have attracted a large number of active -adherents to the cause and many silent sympathizers. But, as you may -imagine, some of them do not appeal very strongly to practical men. If -the Sinn Feiners had undertaken to do less, had kept out of politics and -had avoided the enmity of the church they might have become a powerful -and useful agency in promoting Irish industries and stimulating Irish -patriotism, but the leaders have gone too far to retrace their steps. -They cannot retract the unkind words they have said about the Irish -parliamentary party or their bitter criticism of the interference of the -bishops and the priests. It would be fatal for them to amend their -programme by omitting the impractical portions. Hence it is not probable -that the movement will gain much strength in the future, and, indeed, it -is already on the decline. - - - - - XV - - THE NORTH OF IRELAND - - -The traveler from the south or west enters a zone of prosperity when he -comes within forty miles of Belfast. The northern counties look like an -entirely different world. The beautiful rolling landscape, with an -occasional grove and flowering hedges, is similar to the rest of the -east coast of the island, but the farms are larger and more thoroughly -cultivated; very little of the land is given up to grazing, few cattle -are seen, but fields of grain, flax, potatoes, turnips, and other -vegetables take the place of pastures, and the large farmhouses are -surrounded by well-kept gardens and big barns. There are no more filthy -one-room cabins, with manure piles in front of the doors, and few signs -of poverty or neglect. The people live in two-story houses and sleep in -beds instead of on the mud floors; they have cook stoves and ranges -instead of boiling their food in pots over a peat fire out of doors. -There are no barefooted women; none with blankets over their heads. -Every one seems to be well dressed and to have a pride of appearance as -well as habits of neatness and bears evidences of comfortable -circumstances. Tall chimneys rise from the centers of the towns. We see -large factories in every village and square miles of linen cloth spread -out upon the turf to bleach. - -The north of Ireland is as different from the rest of the country as New -England is from Alabama, and there is a corresponding difference in the -character of the people. They are not so genial and gentle and obliging -in the North; they are not so poetic, but are more practical, and they -are looking out for themselves. The manners of the people of Belfast -are said to be the worst in the world. They are often offensive in their -brusqueness and abruptness, and a stranger is sometimes repelled by -their gruff replies. The Belfasters make no pretensions to politeness, -and speak their minds with a plainness and directness that are sometimes -disagreeable. But they have a reputation for honesty, enterprise, -industry, and morality, which they consider virtues of greater -importance and of a higher value than the art of politeness. - -There is a series of beautiful villages and towns along the coast south -of Belfast, and one of them is called Rosstrevor because a gentleman by -the name of Ross married an heiress by the name of Trevor, a younger -daughter of the Viscount of Dungan. It is situated upon a height, with a -background of wooded hills, plentifully sprinkled with villas. The -village shows evidence of the fostering care of its late owner, Sir -David Ross, and its present owner, Sir John Ross-of-Bladensburg, who is -commissioner of police for Ireland, and is a person of great importance -in his own estimation as well as that of others. He takes an active part -in political and ecclesiastical affairs and is always occupying a front -seat when anything is going on. He signs himself John Ross of -Bladensburg, because his grandfather, Major General Ross, commanded the -British troops at the battle of Bladensburg, and after one of the most -bloody and important conflicts in the history of human warfare he led -them triumphantly into the capital of the United States and destroyed -the palace of the President, the parliament house, and the navy yard! -All this and more appears in the much published biographies of the Ross -family, and because of the glory thus acquired they added the word -"Bladensburg" to their name when they were elevated to a baronetcy. - -[Illustration: ROSSTREVOR HOUSE, NEAR BELFAST, THE RESIDENCE OF SIR JOHN -ROSS OF BLADENSBURG] - -The Ross family have erected an obelisk to the memory of their famous -ancestor upon a promontory above the sea at Rosstrevor, and have -inscribed upon it the following epitaph: - - The Officers of a Grateful Army, - Which, Under the Command of the Lamented - - MAJOR GENERAL ROBERT ROSS, - - Attacked and Defeated the American Forces - at Bladensburg on the 24th of August, 1814, - And on the Same Day - Victoriously Entered Washington, - The Capital of the United States, - Inscribe Upon This Tablet - Their Admiration of His Professional Skill - And Their Esteem for His Amiable - Private Character. - -There are three other inscriptions of similar purport, one on each face -of the pedestal. General Ross, it appears, is buried in Halifax. - -Belfast is the center of a great manufacturing district. Each factory is -surrounded by groups of neat two-story brick cottages, with gardens, -churches, schoolhouses, and shops, which are very different from the -rest of Ireland, and are similar to those in the suburbs of -Philadelphia. Belfast ranks high among the manufacturing cities of the -world. It is proud of the title of "The Chicago of Ireland." The people -are as boastful of their progress, their wealth, and their prosperity as -those of its namesake. But for the strong Scotch accent one might -imagine himself in Kansas City, Seattle, or Los Angeles because of their -civic pride. Every man you meet tells you that a hundred years ago -Belfast had only fifteen thousand population, while to-day it has nearly -four hundred thousand; that its wealth has doubled six times in the last -twenty-five years; that it has the largest shipyards, the largest -tobacco factory, the largest spinning mills, and the largest rope walk -in the world. When they take you up on the side of a high mountain and -show you a view of the city spread out on both sides of the River Lagan, -they defy you to count the chimneys and the church spires, which are as -numerous as the domes of Moscow. Belfast is the most prosperous place -in Ireland and an example of matchless concentration of power, industry, -and ability. - -The people have good ground for their vanity, and while their claims are -somewhat exaggerated, few cities have so much to boast of. One of the -shipyards has produced more than four hundred ocean steamers, another -built the first turbine that ever floated on the ocean, and together -they employ fifteen thousand hands. The machine shops of Belfast are -also famous. They provide spinning and weaving machines for all the -linen mills in the world, and ship them even to the United States. The -engines, boilers, and other machinery that is turned out from the shops -of Belfast are shipped to every corner of the world, and the product of -the linen factories' trade now amounts to more than sixty million -dollars a year. The largest mill covers five acres, with 60,000 -spindles, 1,000 looms, and more than 4,000 hands. A single tobacco firm -pays $4,000,000 in taxes every year and a distillery has an annual -output of $7,500,000. - -Belfast has sixteen factories for the production of ginger ale, -lemonade, soda, and other aërated waters, which are famous the world -over. It manufactures agricultural implements and machinery for every -kind of industry, and much of the machinery is the invention of its own -citizens. - -Belfast is no relation to the rest of Ireland. It is a Scottish town, -and most of the people are of Scotch ancestry--all except the lowest -class of labor, which has drifted in from the neighboring counties. The -city lies at the head of a bay, or lough, as they call it there, nine -miles long. The headlands at the mouth of the bay are only eighteen -miles from the shores of Scotland, which may be seen very plainly on a -clear morning. - -The shortest distance between Ireland and Scotland is only twelve and -three-quarter miles--between Torrhead and the Mull of Kintyre. The -shortest practicable crossing, between Larne, a few miles north of -Belfast, and Stranraer, Scotland, is thirty-nine miles, and is made in -two hours by steamer. The crossing from Belfast is sixty-four miles, and -it is five hours to Glasgow. There are steamers several times a day--in -the morning, afternoon, and at night--and the largest part of the -business as well as the sympathies of the people are with the Scots. -Since the tunnel under the Hudson River has been completed between New -York and Hoboken, the plan for an "under sea railway" between Larne and -Port Patrick has been revived. The engineers have reported that they can -make a tunnel from Ireland to Scotland, less than forty-five miles, one -hundred and fifty feet below the sea level, at a cost of $60,000,000, -and some day, perhaps, it will be possible to cross by train under the -Irish Channel, rather than by boat over it. - -The racial, religious, and political antagonisms between the north and -south of Ireland are well known, and can never be removed. Three-fourths -of the population in this section of the island are Protestants, mostly -Calvinists of the sternest kind, and the portraits of John Knox and -Oliver Cromwell hang on the walls of the houses rather than those of the -popes. The religious feeling, however, is not so intense as formerly. A -generation ago, the 12th of July (the anniversary of the battle of the -Boyne, in which the Protestant army of William of Orange overcame and -dispersed the Roman Catholic forces under James II.) never used to pass -without a riot and many broken heads, but of recent years there have -been very few collisions. Formerly, the Roman Catholics used to lie in -wait at a certain bridge to attack the procession of Orange societies as -it passed over, with shillalahs and stones. The Orangemen, who are -mostly mechanics from the shipyards and machine-shops, always armed -themselves with iron bolts and nuts for the fray, and missiles flew -freely, leaving many unconscious and sometimes dead men on the ground. -And on other holidays, whenever the representatives of either religious -faith came out in force, the other usually attempted to interfere with -them. But those days have passed. The rival religionists glare at and -taunt each other now, but do not strike. - -One cannot blame the Roman Catholics for their bitterness. In the -middle of the sixteenth century, in consequence of the rebellion of the -earls of Tyrone and Tyrconnell, the heads of the great clans of O'Neill -and O'Donnell, against the authority of Queen Elizabeth, the territory -belonging to them and their followers was confiscated by the crown and -sold to Protestants, chiefly from Scotland, just as the southern -counties were distributed among the "undertakers" from England, but with -a difference. The "undertakers" who were granted the estates of the -rebellious earls in southern Ireland were mostly adventurers and -speculators. Many of them never came to Ireland at all. Few of them -settled permanently upon their grants, while nearly all of those who -undertook to carry out the contract of colonization were indifferent to -the class of settlers they brought in. In Ulster Province, however, -which is the northern third of Ireland, after the "flight of the earls," -their confiscated lands were taken up in small parcels by actual -settlers from Scotland, whose descendants have occupied them until this -day--a sturdy, thrifty, industrious, and prosperous race, and the -children of these "Scotch-Irish" Protestants have borne as important a -part in the settlement and development of the United States as the -children of the Pilgrims have done. - -The "planters," who came over from Scotland, brought with them their -morals and their religion, and most of them were Presbyterians. In 1637 -the surveyor-general of the Ulster plantations reported to the king that -there were forty Scots to one English, and fifteen Presbyterians to one -of all the other sects combined. And the Presbyterians have ever since -been the leading religious body in the north of Ireland. They are a -stern, stolid, conservative race, stubborn of opinion, persistent of -purpose, and fully conscious of their own rectitude. When William, -Prince of Orange, invaded Ireland in 1689, after James II. abdicated his -throne and fled from England, he landed at the little town of -Carrickfergus, about six miles below Belfast, where he was received with -great rejoicing. Here he unfurled his flag and displayed his motto, "The -Protestant Religion and the Liberties of England I will maintain," and -the people of Belfast have endeavored to maintain them with vigor ever -since. The term "Orangemen" has ever since been applied to organizations -of Protestants of a political character, and they have received more or -less support from the church. Most of them are semi-benevolent, like the -Hibernian societies among the Catholic population of southern Ireland, -and they are found in every town and village in the province of Ulster. -There are Orange halls in every parish of Belfast and the surrounding -country. They embrace in their membership representatives of all the -Protestant denominations, the Church of Ireland and the Methodists as -well as the Presbyterians--but the latter are most numerous and in some -districts you will find none but Presbyterians. - -The O'Neills were kings of Ulster in ancient times and their coat of -arms was a red hand, whereby hangs a startling tale. According to -tradition, the original O'Neill came over from Scotland with a party of -invaders, among whom it was agreed that he should be king whose hand -first touched the soil of Ireland. The boats were all stranded on the -beach, and the captains and the crews were striving desperately to make -the shore, when "The O'Neill," with the nerve that has always -distinguished his clan, drew his sword, chopped off his own left hand at -the wrist, threw it upon the beach and claimed the throne, which was -accorded him. Hence a red hand or "Lamh dearg" is on the coat of arms of -Ulster, being placed upon a small shield in the center of a large -shield, upon which appears the red cross of St. George, thus signifying -England's domination over Ulster. - -Neill of the Nine Hostages, who reigned from A.D. 379 to 405, was the -most warlike and adventurous of all the pagan kings, and, with two -exceptions, all the overkings of Ireland, from the time that Red O'Neill -tossed his amputated hand upon the shore, to the accession of Brian -Boru, belonged to this illustrious family. And they gave England a great -deal of trouble. In 1551, Conn O'Neill was created Earl of Tyrone, and -Mathew, who claimed to be his son, was given the right of succession. -"Shane, the Proud," the legitimate son and heir, was a mere boy at that -time, but when he grew to manhood he disputed his half-brother's -parentage and apologized for his father's conduct with the remark that, -"Being a gentleman, he never refused a child that any woman named to be -his." - -After the death of Henry VIII. Shane O'Neill inaugurated a rebellion -which cost England more men and more money than any struggle that has -ever occurred in Ireland; an expenditure equal to $10,000,000 of our -present money, besides tens of thousands of lives and millions of -private property destroyed. After peace was restored in 1558, Shane was -elected "The O'Neill," in accordance with the ancient Irish custom, and -in 1561 he accepted the olive branch from Queen Elizabeth and went to -London at her invitation, followed by his gallowglasses in their strange -native attire--loose, wide-sleeved, saffron-colored tunics, reaching to -their knees, with shaggy mantles of sheepskin over their shoulders, -their heads bare, their long hair curling down on their shoulders and -clipped short in front, just above the eyes. - -The last of the earls of Tyrone was Hugh O'Neill, a son of Shane, who -organized another rebellion in 1584, and, being defeated, fled to his -castle in the dense woods of Glenconkeine, and there awaited anxiously -for Philip of Spain or Clement VIII., the reigning pope, to succor him. -One by one O'Neill was deserted by all the Irish chieftains except Rory -O'Donnell, Earl of Tyrconnell, and as they saw no hope of relief they -made peace with England. Several years later, in 1607, being accused of -a plot, they fled from the shores of Ireland with a party of ninety-four -kinsfolk and retainers. They finally found their way to Rome, where Paul -V., the reigning pontiff, gave them shelter and expressed his deep -sympathy with the Irish exiles. The following year Rory O'Donnell, Earl -of Tyrconnell, died of Roman fever, and in 1616 the last of the Irish -kings bearing the name of O'Neill was laid to rest in the Church of San -Pietro on the Janiculum, the same which claims the dust of St. Peter. - -[Illustration: SHANE'S CASTLE, NEAR BELFAST, THE ANCIENT STRONGHOLD OF -THE O'NEILLS, KINGS OF ULSTER] - -The misfortunes which always followed Hugh O'Neill's footsteps continued -to pursue his sons. Henry, the eldest, died in command of an Irish -regiment in the Netherlands; John, his next brother, succeeded him and -died in battle in Catalonia; Bernard was assassinated when but seventeen -years old; Hugh died of Roman fever, and Conn, the youngest, who, for -some unaccountable reason, was left in Ireland in the hurry of his -father's flight, was arrested, taken to London, and imprisoned in the -Tower, where he was lost sight of, and the male line of the O'Neills -became extinct. The living representative of the family, Baron Edward -O'Neill of Shane's Castle, Antrim, is descended in the female line. His -name was Chichester until he was created baron in 1868, when he assumed -that of his ancestors. He lives in the old castle, about fourteen miles -north of Belfast. - -The lord of the county, however, is the young Earl of Shaftesbury, -grandson of the famous philanthropist, who inherits many of his -grandfather's traits and takes an active part in religious, -philanthropic, political, and municipal affairs. He is very -public-spirited, is always willing to do his part in charitable -movements, has served as alderman and lord mayor of Belfast with great -credit, and has held several other important positions. He was educated -at Eton and Sandhurst Military School, was elected alderman in Belfast -in 1905 and lord mayor in 1907. In 1899 he married Lady Constance -Grosvenor, granddaughter of the late Duke of Westminster. He inherited -Belfast Castle, the former seat of the Donegal family, which they have -occupied ever since. It is about three miles from Belfast, and entirely -modern. The state apartments and picture galleries on the main floor are -very fine. A short distance from the castle is a beautiful little -private mortuary chapel erected by the late Marquis of Donegal, as a -burial place for the family. - -On the opposite side of Belfast Lough is the seat of the late Lord -Dufferin and Ava, one of the ablest and most useful men in the British -empire for many years. His figure in bronze under a marble canopy in the -City Hall Park reminds the people of Belfast of his ability, his -patriotism, and his public services. He was Viceroy of India, -Governor-General of Canada, ambassador to France, Italy, and Turkey, and -held other important positions and received unusual honors, but he died -here in 1902 broken hearted because his reputation had been used by a -swindler, named Wright, in promoting an enterprise that seemed to him -proper and promising, but turned out to be the worst kind of a fraud. -His situation was similar to that of General Grant after the Grant-Ward -failure in New York. Lord Dufferin gave up all his property as -restitution to the victims of the scheme and retired to the seclusion of -his ancestral home here. Wright was convicted and sentenced to twenty -years in prison, but committed suicide before he was sent to the -penitentiary. The dowager marchioness still occupies the family mansion -with her younger children and is actively engaged in charitable work. - -The young earl occupies an important position in the foreign office at -London. He was born in 1866, and in 1903 married an American girl, Miss -Florence Davis, daughter of John H. Davis, 24 Washington Square, New -York City. - -Upon the loftiest eminence overlooking Belfast Lough is a tall, round -structure known as Ellen's Tower, which the late marquis erected in -memory of his late mother, Ellen Sheridan, a granddaughter of Richard -Brinsley Sheridan, the dramatist. She was a woman of great ability and -exercised a wide influence. She wrote books and poetry and songs and was -the author of the old-fashioned ballad that was very popular in your -grandmother's time: "I'm Sitting on the Stile, Mary." - -On the north side of the Bay of Belfast, about six miles below the city, -is the ancient town of Carrickfergus, which is of peculiar interest to -Americans, because the father of Andrew Jackson was born there and from -there emigrated in 1765 and found a farm in the wilderness of North -Carolina. - -It was there also that John Paul Jones, with the _Ranger_, fought the -_Drake_, a British sloop of war, April 24, 1778. The _Drake_ was in the -harbor near the Castle of Carrickfergus, when the _Ranger_ came in -sight, and coaxed her out for an engagement, which occurred promptly in -midchannel, and for a while there was very lively action on both sides. -The _Drake_ carried twenty 4-pound guns and 142 seamen. The _Ranger_ -carried eighteen 6-pound guns and 155 seamen, several of whom were -Irishmen from Belfast and one from Carrickfergus. The _Drake_ was the -larger vessel, but was not handled as easily as the _Ranger_. The fight -lasted an hour and fifteen minutes when the _Drake_ struck her colors. -Her captain, Burder, by name, was killed; Lieutenant Dobbs, the next in -command, was mortally wounded, and her deck was covered with the dead -and the dying. The _Ranger_ had only three killed and five wounded. -Captain Jones remained in the bay for several days, making repairs, and -sent all the wounded ashore to Carrickfergus. Lieutenant Dobbs died the -morning after the battle and is buried in the churchyard of the little -village of Lisburn near by, where he lies beside the great and good -Jeremy Taylor, Bishop of Armagh, who died in 1667. - -It was on the day before the battle that Captain Jones made his raid -upon the castle of Lord Selkirk at Kirkcudbright, Scotland, across the -Irish Channel, and carried away with him the family plate, which was -surrendered by Lady Selkirk to avoid a mutiny among the crew. But -Captain Jones, after five years of persistent work, recovered the entire -collection and restored it safely to its original owners, even paying -for its carriage to Scotland. Captain Stockton, the American military -attaché at London, sent to the Navy Department at Washington, copies of -several characteristic letters written by John Paul Jones to Lady -Selkirk and to Lord Selkirk, concerning the matter. - -Belfast has had many distinguished sons in addition to those whom I have -already named, but none more eminent and useful than James Bryce, -British ambassador to Washington, who was born there May 10, 1838, and -shares with Lord Kelvin the honor of being the most famous of all -Belfasters. He went from there a young man to the University of Glasgow -and there developed his extraordinary mental and physical energy. From -Glasgow he went to Oxford, where he took his degree in 1862, and then to -Heidelberg to perfect himself in German, of which he is a thorough -scholar. We next find him studying law in London where he was called to -the Bar in 1867 and immediately was recognized for his legal ability and -learning. Only three years later he was invited to accept the Regius -professorship of law at Oxford, which he held from 1870 to 1893. In the -meantime he was the busiest man in England and engaged in the greatest -variety of activities. He was writing history, exploring Iceland, -climbing Mount Ararat, making records in the Alpine Club, studying -Ireland, running for parliament, serving as parliamentary secretary for -foreign affairs, and afterward as chief secretary for Ireland in the -British cabinet and chancellor of the Duchy of Lancaster. - -And all this time, when he was not doing anything else, he was writing -books, and almost all of his works are regarded as the best books ever -written upon the subjects of which they treat. "The American -Commonwealth" is acknowledged to be the best account of our institutions -ever penned by a foreigner. "The Holy Roman Empire" is a model of -historical literature, while Mr. Bryce's other books, on a variety of -subjects, are of equal rank in scholarship and in literary merit. - -The late Rev. Dr. John Hall, in his day the most eminent Presbyterian -divine in America, was born at Armagh, where Cardinal Logue, the Roman -Catholic Primate of Ireland, presides over the ancient see of St. -Patrick. Dr. Hall was born in 1829, entered Belfast College when he was -only thirteen years old, and although the youngest in his class, ranked -first in scholarship and took the largest number of prizes. He studied -theology at the Presbyterian Seminary here, and when he was only -twenty-two years old became pastor of the First Church at Armagh, his -native town. In 1856 he was called to Dublin as pastor of the Rutland -Presbyterian Church, and was appointed commissioner of education for -Ireland. In 1867 he was sent to the United States as a delegate to the -general assembly, and created such a favorable impression that he -immediately received a call to the pulpit of the Fifth Avenue Church, -Presbyterian, of New York, which he accepted and occupied the rest of -his life. - - - - - XVI - - THE THRIVING CITY OF BELFAST - - -Belfast has a population of 380,000, according to the most reliable -estimates. The latest enumeration, in 1901, showed a population of -349,180, which is just double that returned by the census of 1871. Of -this population 120,269 are Presbyterians, 102,991 are Episcopalians, -84,992 are Roman Catholics, 21,506 Methodists, and the remainder are -divided among a dozen different religious denominations. It is -distinctively a theological town. - -You hear workingmen discussing theology in the street cars instead of -politics, comparing the eloquence of their ministers and their soundness -in the faith. - -There is a remarkably large attendance at church. All the churches are -crowded every Sunday. There is a difference of terms, however, with the -several denominations. Catholics go to "mass" where a priest officiates; -members of the Church of Ireland attend "service" which is performed by -a parson; while the Presbyterians and other nonconformists go to -"meeting" and hear the gospel expounded by a minister. The Presbyterian -services are very long and heavy. They begin at 11 o'clock on Sunday -morning and last till 1:30, and the Sunday school continues two hours. -The congregation is never satisfied with a sermon less than an hour -long, while an hour and a quarter is preferred, and they insist that -their ministers shall expound doctrinal texts to their satisfaction or -they criticise them freely and fiercely. - -The Irish are the most old-fashioned kind of Presbyterians, being -stricter than the Scotch. Few churches allow musical instruments or -hymns that rhyme, and the congregations follow a precentor with a tuning -fork in chanting Rouse's version of the Psalms of David. - -The people remember the Sabbath day to keep it holy only until -afternoon. There are no railway trains or street cars running in the -morning, and you cannot find a cab or a jaunting car on the street. No -boats arrive or depart from the docks on Sunday, and when I took a walk -along the river front one Sunday I found the men who were accustomed to -work there all sitting around eating "willicks," or periwinkles--a sort -of water snails which are picked up on the beach of the bay and are -peddled about by old women and small boys like chestnuts. You can buy -half a pint of them for a penny. The peddler has a paper of long pins in -his basket and gives one to each purchaser to pry the snails out of -their shells. That seems to be the Sunday morning occupation. But Sunday -afternoon everybody comes out for a good time, the streets fill up with -promenaders and the cars are crowded with excursionists. - -The Belfast directory gives a list of sixty orthodox Presbyterian -churches, and they are numbered from the First Presbyterian Church -consecutively to the Fifty-eighth Presbyterian Church, with two extras, -called the Strand Presbyterian Church and Albert Hall Presbyterian -Church. In addition to these are five "nonsubscribing" Presbyterian -churches whose members have refused to subscribe to some article of the -confession of faith, but are otherwise orthodox and are numbered with -the elect; four "Reformed Presbyterian churches," one "Original -Secession Church Presbyterian," one "East Reformed Presbyterian Church," -and one "United Free Presbyterian Church," making altogether seventy-two -Presbyterian churches in a city of three hundred and eighty thousand -inhabitants, an average of one Presbyterian church for every five -thousand inhabitants. - -As I was passing under the archway of Queen's College with a -Presbyterian doctor of divinity from Cincinnati he intercepted an old -gentleman and inquired the name of the church with the handsome spire -across the street. - -"That's the Fifth Presbyterian Church," was the polite reply. - -"And what church is that over yonder, whose spire we see beyond the -college?" - -"That's the Twenty-seventh Presbyterian Church." - -"You seem to have an abundance of Presbyterian churches in Belfast; you -ought to feel certain of salvation." - -"I'm not so sure of that," was the reply. "I'm not convinced that a -Belfast Presbyterian is any more certain of salvation than the rest of -us. We once had here a famous doctor of divinity. He was a great man and -a good man, and you will see his statue in bronze down beyond the -railway station in the middle of the square--Rev. Dr. Cooke. He was -highly respected and revered by the community, but his son was a -scapegrace and gave the old gentleman a great deal of trouble and -anxiety. One Sunday morning the good doctor found Harry at breakfast and -remarked pleasantly: - -"'I hope you are going to meeting this morning, Harry?' - -"'Well, I'm not,' replied Harry with a grouch. - -"'And why not?' asked his father. - -"'I'm never going to meeting any more; I never got any good from -meetings.' - -"'You'll find no meetings in hell, sir!' said the doctor, solemnly. - -"'It'll not be for the lack of the ministers!', was Harry's reply." - -And the genial old gentleman smiled grimly and passed on. - -At least two of the public monuments in Belfast have been erected in -honor of Presbyterian divines,--Rev. Dr. Cooke, of whom the above story -is told, and Rev. Hugh Hanna; and one of the largest and most beautiful -buildings in the city is the Presbyterian House, where there is an -assembly hall that will seat twenty-five hundred people, smaller halls, -and committee rooms, and the offices of the various missionary societies -and other organizations belonging to that denomination. It was erected -by private subscription and dedicated with great ceremony two years ago. -It is the headquarters of Presbyterianism in the north of Ireland and -its noble tower can be seen for a long distance. - -On the second floor of the building are clubrooms, reading-rooms, and -amusement halls, and other attractions for the young men of Presbyterian -families, a sort of denominational Y.M.C.A.; and, strange to say, the -amusement-room is fitted up with two billiard tables, which I am told -are in great demand every evening. The janitor in charge admitted that -some of the stricter members of the sect had made urgent objections -against this form of entertainment, but the committee "was not willing -to let the devil have all the fun." - -The general assembly of the Presbyterian church holds its annual -sessions in the big hall of the new Presbyterian building, and all the -other denominational gatherings are held there. At the last assembly -Rev. Dr. McIlveen, the moderator, reviewed the progress of that -denomination during the last forty years. It was true, he said, that its -numbers, as reported by the official census, had not increased. In -common with other religious denominations, the Presbyterians had lost -largely by emigration. Many of their members, especially the young and -vigorous, had gone forth to seek homes in the colonies of the empire, or -the great republic of the West. In the period to which he was referring -the population of Ireland had decreased more than a million, and while -in comparison with the other large denominations the Presbyterians had -suffered less proportional loss, yet their membership had decreased -fifty-five thousand. Yet they had four thousand more families than they -had forty years ago and six thousand more contributors to the stipend -fund. The givings of the people to various objects had more than -doubled. There had been an annual increase of $100,000 in the stipend -fund; $75,000 in the ordinary Sabbath offerings, and more than $90,000 -annually to missions. During the same time there had been invested more -than $5,250,000 in the erection and repair of churches, manses, and -other Presbyterian buildings; the Church House at Belfast had been -erected at a cost of $400,000, and $5,250,000 had accumulated in the -hands of the boards of trustees of different benevolences as capital. - -In addition to the seventy-two Presbyterian churches in Belfast, the -directory notes thirty-seven under the care of the Church of Ireland, -thirty Methodist, eighteen Roman Catholic, seven Congregationalist, six -Baptist, two Moravians, one Friends' meeting-house, one Jewish synagogue -and two societies called Plymouth Brethren, who announce "breaking of -bread at 11:30 A.M. and gospel at 7 P.M."--making a total of one hundred -and seventy-six houses of worship. - -The working people of Belfast do not live in tenement houses as is the -custom throughout the rest of Europe, but every family has its own -separate cottage, and there are long streets of neat brick, two-story, -five-room houses very similar to those that you find in Philadelphia, -only the rents are very much lower there. For ten dollars a month a -Belfast mechanic can get a neat and comfortable six-room dwelling, 20 -feet front and 36 feet deep, with a garden 100 feet in depth. For five -dollars and seven dollars and fifty cents a month he can get four or -five roomed cottages that are equally comfortable. And the mechanics -there take a great deal more interest in their homes than those in the -rest of Ireland. If you will look through the windows as you pass -through the streets you will see them draped with neat Nottingham lace -curtains and linen shades. There are shelves of books and pictures, neat -carpets and center-tables with a family Bible and photograph album and -religious newspapers and periodicals. There are often books on -theology,--more than anything else,--commentaries on the Bible and other -denominational works, for the well-to-do Belfast mechanic is a -Presbyterian and always prepared to defend the doctrines of that faith. -The manufacturers, the merchants, and the middle classes generally are -Presbyterians. The land owners, the professional men, the nobility, and -the aristocracy are nearly all members of the Church of Ireland, while -the common laborers are Roman Catholics. - -[Illustration: Queen's College, Belfast] - -When the Scotch "planters" came to the north of Ireland they brought -their love of learning and their scholarship with their religion, and -Belfast has always been an educational as well as a denominational -center, more noted than any other city in Ireland for the excellence -of its schools. Queen's College, founded nearly sixty years ago by Queen -Victoria as a state institution, is at the head of the system and will -soon be a university. Queen's is one of the "godless" colleges that we -hear so much about in ecclesiastical circles, because there is no -chapel, no religious exercises or instruction. But the atmosphere of the -institution is thoroughly Presbyterian, and Rev. Dr. Hamilton, the -president, who will also be president of the proposed university, is one -of the most eminent ministers in that denomination. The buildings of -Queen's College, six hundred feet long, are imposing in appearance and -of solid construction, after the Tudor school of architecture, with a -central tower and two wings, inclosing quadrangular courts. There is a -school of law and a school of medicine, with more than four hundred -students, and one of the most important in Ireland. - -Just behind Queen's College is the General Assembly's Theological -Seminary, founded in 1853 to train men for the Presbyterian pulpit. It -occupies a massive building of red sandstone that is simple and severe. -Across the way from Queen's is a Methodist college with two hundred and -fifty students, the building being after the same general plan as -Queen's. These three institutions are entirely in sympathy and are -working together, although they have no legal or official relation. - -The City Hall of Belfast is an imposing building, which cost a million -and a half of dollars, and is very ornate for its purpose. It stands in -the center of a large square, admirably located so that its fine -proportions may be admired from all sides. The interior is very -ornamental, the walls and stairways being of Carrara marble elaborately -carved. On either side are handsome monuments. The building is 300 feet -long and 240 feet deep; the façade is of the same design on each of the -four sides, and there is a dome 175 feet high. There is a great hall for -official ceremonies and public assemblies that will seat a thousand -people, and several other state apartments handsomely decorated. - -In front of the City Hall is a recent statue of Queen Victoria in -marble, and a very good one it is. On another side the late Lord -Dufferin is represented in bronze wearing the robes of a Knight of St. -Patrick, while Sir Edward J. Harland, founder of the great shipyards at -Belfast, is honored in a similar manner. Not far away is the Albert -Memorial, a clock tower, 143 feet high, of Gothic design, which was -erected to the memory of the Prince Consort in 1870. There are several -other statues of local dignitaries in different parts of the city and a -soul-stirring memorial to the members of the Royal Irish Rifles who died -in the Boer war. - -The business architecture of Belfast is unusually fine and in striking -contrast to the rest of Ireland, where there has been very little -building for a century. Belfast, however, is a distinctively modern city -and up-to-date. There are no skyscrapers, and the limit of height seems -to be six stories, but there is considerable architectural display; and -the shopping streets are entirely modern, with large and attractive show -windows. - -You hear a great deal about the weather of Ireland, and I have already -quoted an old and common joke that it never rains on the 31st of -February. People never go out without an umbrella or a mackintosh, -because it is always safer to carry them. It rains in the most -unexpected way. The clouds gather very suddenly and the predictions of -the weather bureau cannot be taken seriously. But the natives don't seem -to mind it. They are so used to getting soaked that it is a matter of no -consequence, and over in the shipyards and elsewhere we saw men working -on through a pouring rain without taking the slightest notice of it. -Women who are compelled to weather the storms frequently line their -skirts with rubber cloth or leather so as to keep their underclothing -dry, and every man carries his mackintosh over his arm when he leaves -home in the morning. - -[Illustration: Albert Memorial, Belfast] - -The official reports show that in the year 1907 rain fell on 232 out of -the 365 days, and in 1906 there were 237 rainy days. In October, 1907, -there were twenty-nine rainy days; in December, twenty-seven; in May, -twenty-two; but in September there were only nine rainy days, which -might be called a drought. In 1906 January had twenty-nine rainy days, -August twenty-four, April twenty-three, and November and December -twenty-two each. The average annual rainfall for the last forty years -has been 33,523 inches. - -The highest temperature in 1907 was 79.8 degrees in the shade, and -lowest, on the 30th of December, was 19 above zero. - -Belfast is a very healthy city, however, the death rate averaging about -twenty per one thousand. It has been very much reduced during the last -fifteen or twenty years by the improvement of the water supply and -sewerage. The birth rate is very high and has sometimes run up to -thirty-seven per one thousand of population. Last year it was thirty-one -per one thousand. - -On Saturday and Sunday nights we saw a good many drunken men upon the -streets. But I am told that there is a great improvement in this respect -in recent years. The Orange associations of Protestants and the -Hibernian and other friendly societies of Roman Catholics are both -taking an active part in temperance work, from economical as well as -moral motives, because they realize how much misfortune, poverty, -sickness, and death--all of which increase their assessments--are due to -drink. - -I have not been able to find out how much money is spent for whisky in -the Protestant counties. There is no way to ascertain or estimate it -accurately, but the sum must be very large. But everybody agrees that it -is diminishing. There is a less number of saloons by twenty-five or -thirty per cent than there was ten years ago, and a corresponding -decrease in the amount of drunkenness. The number of arrests for -drunkenness and disorder have fallen off noticeably during the last few -years. This has given a great deal of encouragement to the temperance -advocates. - -There is a much higher degree of intelligence and mechanical skill among -the working people in Belfast than in any other part of Ireland, and -the ratio of illiteracy is much lower in County Down and County Antrim -than in any other part of the island. The highest degree of skilled -labor is required in the machine shops and shipyards and commands the -best wages that are paid to any artisans in Ireland. The women work in -linen mills and shirt and collar factories. - -A technical school for the specialized training of boys for mechanics -was established here in 1902, evening instruction in the applied -sciences, drawing, sketching, and the other arts, and in mathematics, -mechanical, electrical, and civil engineering, having been given for -several years in classes maintained by voluntary subscriptions from -citizens. Five such institutions were in existence at that time, having -between seven and eight hundred students on their rolls. An act of -parliament passed in 1899 authorized the consolidation of these schools, -and a beautiful building in the very center of the city, admirably -adapted to the purpose, was erected and equipped at the expense of -$750,000. The school now has a stated income of $96,000 from regular -taxation. In 1902 classes were opened with the total of 3,381 students. -At present this number has been increased to 5,064 men, women, and -children between fifteen and sixty-five years of age, representing all -classes and castes, who are studying everything in the way of useful -arts and trades. Thirty teachers are exclusively employed, with one -hundred and thirty experts from different factories and machine shops, -who give evening instruction or have special classes on certain days. -Nothing is free. Everybody who enjoys the benefits of the institution is -required to pay a fee ranging from one dollar a term upward to sixty -dollars, according to the amount of attention required. The largest -classes are in engineering, drawing, electricity, and the commercial -occupations, but nearly every trade is taught in connection with the -ordinary rudiments of English, mathematics, and geography in the evening -classes to those whose early education was neglected. - -The municipality owns the building and supports the school. Sir James -Henderson, editor of the _Daily News-Letter_, who was lord mayor of -Belfast at the time that the school was established, is the chairman of -the committee in charge, and is to be congratulated upon a great -success. The attitude of the labor unions, which at first regarded the -enterprise with distrust, is becoming more friendly, and they permit -their members to avail themselves of the facilities provided by the -school. The education of apprentices to trades without limitations is -still a question of controversy. The attitude of the employers is more -favorable, because nearly all of them recognized increased efficiency -among their journeymen who have attended the school, and many of them -are paying a part or the whole of the fees of all their workmen who will -attend regularly the classes in their respective trades. The investment -is, therefore, a good one for the city of Belfast. The technical school -will certainly result in the improvement of the efficiency of the -mechanics of the city. - -Belfast has quite a number of municipal utilities. The city owns the gas -works, the electric lighting plant, and all the street car lines, as -well as the water supply. The gas works have proven to be a very -profitable undertaking, and gas is furnished for sixty-seven cents a -cubic foot, with a fair profit to the city. A municipal electric plant -lights the streets and furnishes power for the street railway lines and -also pays a profit. The street railway line, however, is not a -profitable investment and is running behind under municipal management -for several reasons. - -The municipality also owns a large hall that will seat 2,097 persons, -and a smaller hall that will seat 330. Each of these halls is rented for -concerts, lectures, assemblies, exhibitions, conventions, balls, and for -other purposes at a rate of twenty dollars per night for the smaller one -and sixty dollars for the larger one, including light, heat, and -attendance, and there is a good income from both. It also has a series -of organ recitals in the large hall every winter, which are attended by -audiences varying from six hundred to two thousand, who pay a nominal -price for admission--from six to twelve cents, according to the -seat--and thus the entertainments support themselves. The city also -owns a number of private bathing houses, situated in different parts of -the town, for which tickets can be bought for two cents and four cents, -according to the accommodations. These are largely patronized by the -working people, and are self-supporting. Altogether the municipal -management of Belfast is admirable and affords examples which other -cities may study with profit. - -The advantages of Belfast for the manufacture of linen goods, the very -damp climate which softens the thread so that it does not snap in the -spindles or the looms and enables the fabric to be woven closer and -softer, and the purity of the water for bleaching, were recognized long -ago; and, after the revocation of the edict of Nantes in 1685, when six -hundred thousand Protestants fled from France, a party of Huguenot -refugees under Louis Crommelin were invited to come over and introduce -that industry. Crommelin belonged to a family that had woven linen for -four hundred years. He was a man of great business ability, common -sense, energy, and perseverance, and they called him "Crommelin the -Great." Belfast certainly owes him a heavy debt, and it has not been -paid. Although the Irish parliament passed a resolution thanking him for -his services in 1707, his grave in the little churchyard at Lisburn, a -suburban village, is marked only by an ordinary slab of stone. There is -no monument to remind the people of the north of Ireland what they owe -to his ability and devotion. - -The business grew rapidly for the first century and a half, and as early -as 1833 Belfast had eighty mills and was producing $25,000,000 worth of -linen fabrics annually. In 1840 there were 250,000 spindles buzzing -about this town, but the trade reached its maximum in the '70s, and has -not increased much since. There are in all of Ireland about 35,000 looms -and 900,000 spindles, all of them in this immediate vicinity, except two -factories at Dublin, one at Cork, and one at Drogheda. - -These are divided among about two hundred factories with about one -hundred and twenty thousand operatives, of whom two-thirds are women. -Their wages range from three to four dollars a week, and for men from -six to seven dollars a week, the week's work under normal circumstances -being fifty-five hours the year around, beginning at six o'clock in the -morning, with an hour off for breakfast from eight to nine; another hour -from one to two for lunch, and then they remain at work until six -o'clock. An act of parliament does not permit operatives in textile -factories to remain in the buildings where they work during the -breakfast and lunch hours for any purpose whatever. If they bring their -meals with them, they must eat them outside of the factory, for the -purpose is to give them a change of air and require them to take a -certain amount of exercise. Many of the companies here feed their hands -in dining-halls connected with, but apart from, the workrooms. - -Even these small wages have been increased from ten to twenty per cent -within the last five years, and it is remarkable how people can live and -support families upon such limited incomes. The wages are paid on -Saturday noon--when a half-holiday is allowed, and the money is given to -the hands in tin boxes. Each operative has his own number. As they pass -the paymaster's window they call out their number, receive their box, -take out the change, and throw the empty tin into a bin that is placed -near the door for that purpose. - -There are not less than 78,000 persons employed in the linen trade and -its allied industries in the city of Belfast, and not less than 130,000 -people are dependent directly or indirectly upon that industry for -support. The situation is quite different there from many cities, -because the fathers and husbands can find work in the shipyards and -foundries, and thus the whole family is able to get employment. The law -does not allow children under fourteen years of age to work in the -factories, but a large number of boys and girls between fourteen and -seventeen are engaged at wages from one dollar to two dollars a week, -and much is done in the way of embroidery, hemstitching, and other forms -of finishing in the households. The patterns are stamped on the cloth -and the pieces are given out to women and girls to finish in their -homes. - -The employers exercise personal interest and have a paternal policy for -the treatment of their employees, which does not occur often in the -United States and other countries. This is largely due to the fact that -generations have worked in the same mills for the same companies. Our -manufacturing industries are not old enough for such an experience. -Labor is not migratory as it is in the United States. It is customary -for sons to follow the trades of their fathers, and when the daughters -are old enough to go into the mill, the mothers leave it. The workmen -there are satisfied with small wages; their standard of living is so -much lower than in the United States that they can get along very well, -as their fathers and ancestors have done for generations, upon their -scanty earnings. Very few of them save any part of their wages. Not five -per cent of the wage-earners of Belfast patronize the savings banks. -They live from hand to mouth, and, knowing this fact, their employers -are compelled to look after them in hard times. If they did not, the -operatives who are out of employment would scatter and when work was -resumed it would be difficult to fill their places. - -The work of the operatives in linen factories is very trying on the -health, because the atmosphere of the rooms is kept as damp as possible -in order to soften the threads and make them more pliable. Few of the -operatives live past middle life unless they have unusually strong -constitutions. - -More than half of the flax used in Belfast comes from Russia. Only about -twelve thousand tons is raised in Ireland, and that entirely in Ulster -Province, where fifty-five thousand acres are devoted to its -cultivation. An average of forty thousand tons a year is imported from -Holland, Belgium, and other countries, as well as Russia. S.S. -Knabenshue of Toledo, the American consul, attempted to induce farmers -in the Northwest of the United States, who grow flax for the seed, to -ship over here the straw they throw away, but he has not succeeded in -arousing any interest, although they might find a permanent and -profitable market. - -Until recently the spinning of the flax into thread was done by separate -companies and the thread was sold to the weavers, but several years ago -a combine was organized and many of the spinning plants went into a -trust, which has enabled them to command better prices and be more -independent. The linen manufacturers, however, are practically dependent -upon the United States. We take more than half the products of Irish -linen. The average for the last forty years has been 51.1 per cent sold -to the United States, 19.3 to the British possessions, and 29.6 per cent -to other foreign countries. - -In 1907 the value of the linen shipped to the United States was -$14,970,051 out of a total export of $26,895,014. In 1906 our purchases -were about $1,000,000 less, but the proportion remains about the same, -and American buyers may be always found at the Belfast hotels, although -most of the big manufacturers have their agencies in New York. - -Belfast has the largest ropewalk in the world, which employs three -thousand hands, and for years was under the management of the late W.H. -Smiles, a son of Samuel Smiles, author of "Self-Help" and other -well-known books. It is a model institution, and among other features -the firm maintains a large cookhouse and dining-room, where the -employees and their families can obtain wholesome meals much cheaper -than they could be supplied at their own homes. Such a benevolence would -serve to decrease the drunkenness of Ireland and Scotland more than any -other measures that could be adopted. Medical authorities agree that the -principal cause of alcoholism is insufficient nourishment and ill-cooked -food, which creates a craving for stimulants, and argue that if the -working people could have better food they would spend less money for -drink. - -Belfast is the greatest producer of ginger ale, bottled soda, lemonade, -and other aërated waters in the world, and ships them to every corner of -the globe. There are sixteen factories engaged in that business. It is -asserted there that soda water was invented in Belfast. Although there -is no positive evidence to that effect, there is no doubt that ginger -ale was first made by a druggist named Grattan in 1822, who started a -factory here that is still running and has had many imitators. The great -advantage found there is in the quality of the water, which is -especially adapted to aëration, just as that at Burton-on-Trent is -adapted to the manufacture of ale. - -Belfast has two celebrated shipyards which launched 137,369 tons of -steamers in 1907 and 150,428 tons in 1906. The firm of Harland & Wolff -launched 74,115 tons, and Workman, Clark & Co., 63,254. Harland & Wolff -ranked fourth in the order of British shipyards and Workman, Clark & Co. -stand ninth in the list. - -The latter firm built the first ocean turbine steamers and Harland & -Wolff the first ocean greyhound, the _Oceanic_, in 1870, which was the -pioneer of fast sailing on the Atlantic and a notable advance in the -science of navigation. She was an epoch-making vessel from the point of -view of naval architects, because of her general design and -construction, being of much greater length in proportion to her beam -than any that had ever been built up to that time, and she represented -the first attempt to insure the maximum of comfort and luxury in ocean -travel by sacrificing freight space to passenger accommodations and -locating the saloons and cabins amidship. Since then all of the -steamship companies have adopted the same plan, and the comfort and -conveniences that are now found upon vessels have no doubt enormously -increased the passenger traffic. - - - - - XVII - - THE QUAINT OLD TOWN OF DERRY - - -Londonderry, usually called Derry, is an ancient burgh, in which much -history has been enacted, and is unique in several respects among all -the cities of the earth. It does not look like an Irish city at all. It -resembles Plymouth, England. If you were dropped down from a balloon you -might easily imagine yourself in that driving seaport, which is -perfectly natural because everything in Derry is English and there is no -sympathy with the rest of Ireland, or relationship either in race, -religion, commerce, or customs. And the town is the property of the city -of London, which accounts for the name. - -It was called Derry in ancient times until King James I., in 1612, for -money advanced him by the guilds of the city of London when he was hard -up, gave them an area of two hundred thousand acres, confiscated from -the O'Dohertys and the O'Neills for disloyalty. The grant includes every -inch of land upon which Londonderry stands, "and the liberties thereof," -which means jurisdiction over everything within a radius of two miles -around. The aldermen of the city of London, that small but wealthy -community which surrounds the Bank of England and the Mansion House in -the world's metropolis, formed what is known as the Honorable Irish -Society, composed of representatives of the different guilds, to hold -the charter, and they hold it still. The aldermen of the city of London -elect the governor of the society, who is now Sir Robert Newton, lord -mayor of London, and the deputy governor, who is now a Mr. Gardiner, a -resident of Londonderry, as is customary. The lord mayor's functions are -nominal. The deputy governor exercises full authority, assisted by a -council of twenty-four members, selected from among the most prominent -residents. The municipal expenses are paid by the ordinary forms of -taxation and the government is conducted like that of any other city in -Ireland, but the Honorable Irish Society collects ground rent from every -house within a radius of two miles. It also owns the fisheries in the -River Foyle. The money is not devoted to the payment of ordinary -municipal expenses, but goes into the treasury of the society in London, -and a portion of it is devoted to public objects here. Magee College, -the Presbyterian institution, receives a generous grant. Foyle College, -a nonconformist institution, and the Roman Catholic college, each gets -something, and liberal subscriptions are made for the benefit of -hospitals and other charities and the churches of the city. The Irish -Society was purely Protestant at the time of its organization, and is -Protestant still, but it is impartial in its contributions to the -different religious sects. There are two cathedrals, two bishops, one -Roman Catholic, and one Church of Ireland, and the latter holds the -ancient cathedral which, with an abbey, was founded by St. Columba in -the year 546 and still is called by his name. In the pedestal of a group -of statuary, known as "the Calvary," at St. Columba's Roman Catholic -Church, is a famous relic known as St. Columba's stone, although his -name is a misnomer. It is a massive block of gneiss, about six feet -square, made with the prints of two feet, left and right, each about ten -inches long. - -This stone has been improperly associated in some way with St. Columba -by the common people, but it has an equally interesting history, having -been the crowning stone of the O'Neill clan for centuries. At his -installation the newly chosen king was placed upon this stone, his bare -feet in the footmarks, a willow wand was put into his hands as an emblem -of the pure and gentle sway he should exercise over his people, an oath -was administered to him by the chief ecclesiastic that he would preserve -inviolable the ancient customs of the clan; that he would administer -justice impartially among them, that he would sustain the right and -punish the wrong, and that he would deliver the authority to his -successor without resistance at the command of the tribe. Having taken -this oath, "The O'Neill" turned his face to the four corners of Ireland -to signify that he was ready to meet all foes from whatever quarter they -might come; kissed his sword and his spear to signify that he was ready -to use them wherever necessary, and then descended from the stone and -was hailed with wild acclamations as the chief of the O'Neills, while -his knights knelt before him pledging their loyalty and devotion. - -At the time of Ireland's conversion to Christianity by St. Patrick that -holy man visited Londonderry, where Owen O'Neill, the King of Ulster, -was converted from paganism to the new faith and baptized. And, at the -same time, St. Patrick consecrated this stone and blessed it for ever. - -The long line of the O'Neill ancestry was terminated in 1607 by the -flight of Hugh, Earl of Tyrone, after his unsuccessful rebellion against -Queen Elizabeth, and the O'Dohertys, who were not so powerful, were -compelled to surrender to the English. They were expelled from their -lands, with all the followers of the Earl of Tyrone. All of the county -was confiscated and sold or granted to Englishmen and Scotchmen, who -came in and took possession and hold it still. Large areas still belong -to the guilds of London, to whom it was granted for money loaned by them -to King James I. The Tailors' Guild owns the city of Coleraine, a clean, -busy town of seven thousand population, famous for its whisky and linen. -It is governed by officials appointed by the Tailors' Guild in London, -which collects ground rents from all the inhabitants and derives a -considerable revenue from the salmon fisheries. The Fishmongers' Guild -owns the town of Kilrea, the Drapers' Guild owns Draperstown, and other -ancient organizations of merchants in the city of London own other towns -and villages in this country which they obtained in a similar manner. - -Londonderry is unique for being the only city in Ireland where the -ancient walls and fortifications are preserved in the most careful -manner and kept in perfect order with the antique guns mounted as they -were at the time of the siege 225 years ago. They do not inclose the -entire city, but only the ancient part of it, and are about a mile in -length, twenty-four feet high and nine feet thick. The top of the walls -between the bastions is laid out as a promenade and is the favorite -resort of the inhabitants, who may be found there in large numbers every -day after the close of business hours. Some of the business houses and -residences open upon the top of the walls, as do several popular -resorts. The walls are pierced by several monumental gates, which remain -precisely as they were in ancient times, and the old guns, which date -back to 1635 and 1642, are kept as relics, precious as the Declaration -of Independence in Washington. The bastions have been turned into little -gardens, and here and there in the angles shrubs and flowers have been -planted. - -One of the guns which bears the name of "Roaring Meg" was presented to -the city of Londonderry by the fishmongers of London and is the most -precious object in the town, because of its effective work in the siege -of 1689, when King James II., with an Irish army, besieged the city for -105 days, but its determined defenders succeeded in preventing his -entrance. They suffered famine and pestilence, and were reduced to -eating hides, tallow, and the flesh of cats and dogs. During the siege -only eight of the defenders were killed by the enemy, but ten thousand -persons perished from hunger, disease, and exposure in three and a half -months. When the siege was lifted by the appearance of a squadron of -ships laden with arms, ammunition, and provisions, King James and his -army retired from one of the most important episodes in the history of -Ireland. You can still see evidences of that terrible struggle. The -cathedral is decorated with relics and trophies, including a bombshell -which came over the wall, containing the terms of capitulation offered -by King James. The laconic reply of the Rev. George Walker, rector of -the Episcopal church, who was in command of the citizens, was "No -surrender." - -A statue of Rev. Mr. Walker, whose courage, fortitude, and apostolic -influence saved the city, was long ago erected upon the bastion which -bore the heaviest fire during the siege. His noble figure stands upon -the top of a shaft ninety feet high in the attitude which he is said to -have assumed in the most terrible emergency, to revive and sustain the -faltering courage of his parishioners. In one hand he grasps a Bible; -the other is pointing down the river toward the approaching squadron of -deliverance in the distant bay. At another point upon the walls is a -Gothic castellated structure erected by public subscription as a -clubhouse for the boys and young men of Londonderry. It is known as -Apprentices' Hall, and was erected as a memorial to the courage and -foresight of a group of thirteen young apprentices who, during the -excitement caused by the approach of the king's army, had the presence -of mind to drop the heavy gate without instruction from their elders, -and thus made it possible to defend the city against the assault. - -Lieutenant-Colonel Robert Lundy, who was in command of the garrison at -the time, was a coward, and insisted upon surrendering the city to the -king's army, but was prevented from doing so by Rev. Mr. Walker, rector -of the Episcopal church, and Adam Murray, an elder in the Presbyterian -church. Lundy persisted in his purpose, carried on secret negotiations -with the enemy, and was preparing to open the gates when his intentions -were discovered. He escaped in disguise by climbing down the branches of -a pear tree which grew against the wall on the east side. - -Twice a year, on the 18th of December and the 12th of August, the dates -of the beginning and the end of the siege, the apprentice boys of the -city lead a procession of all the Protestant organizations to attend -divine service at the Episcopal Cathedral and then pass the rest of the -day as we celebrate the Fourth of July. At nightfall an effigy of -Colonel Lundy is always burned in a prominent place. These celebrations -are deplored by thoughtful people, as keeping alive religious -animosities, but of recent years the collisions which used to occur -between the Orange societies and the Roman Catholics have been avoided. -The population of Londonderry is very largely Protestant. - -The cathedral is an ugly old building, but quite interesting because of -its historic associations and the relics it contains. - -Magee College, the leading Presbyterian institution of Ireland, occupies -a beautiful site about fifteen minutes' walk from the center of the -city. It was built and endowed by the widow of Rev. William Magee of -Lurgan, was opened in 1865, and is under the care of the general -assembly of the Irish Presbyterian Church. There are several -departments, a staff of seven professors, and an average of two hundred -and fifty students, most of whom are studying for the Presbyterian -ministry. Magee is the only college in Ireland which has been founded -and supported entirely by private benefactions. It has never received a -dollar from the state, although there is an annual grant from the Irish -Society, which owns the city of Londonderry. Under a recent act of -parliament it is united with Queen's College, Belfast, on equal terms in -the new university bill. There is no religious test for students or -professors, although the latter, upon accepting appointment, are -required to sign a pledge that they "will not do, write, or say anything -which might tend in any way to subvert the Christian religion or the -belief of any person therein." Magee has always taken a high stand for -scholarship, and although the building is small it is noble in design, -massive in construction, and well equipped for its purpose. - -The principal business of Londonderry is to make shirts, collars, and -cuffs, which are shipped to Australia, South Africa, India, and other -British colonies. There are several large factories which employ about -two thousand men to do the heavy work and twenty thousand women who do -the stitching and laundering by old-fashioned methods. An American buyer -I met in Belfast spoke rather contemptuously of the Londonderry shirt -factories, which, he declared, "are not in it for a minute" with those -of the United States. He insists that a single factory in Troy makes -more shirts and collars than all the factories in Londonderry combined, -and that by their modern machinery and processes the Troy factories can -make and finish half a dozen shirts while they are making one there. - -Londonderry is unique for another reason. The ordinary relations of -husband and wife and their domestic responsibilities are reversed here. -Many women work in the shirt factories whose husbands stay at home, keep -the house, do the cooking and washing and take care of the children, -because there is nothing else for them to do. There is a large excess of -women in the population. They number two to one man, which is not due to -natural causes, but because women are attracted here from the -neighboring towns and counties to obtain work in the factories, and the -young men have to leave Londonderry and go elsewhere to find employment. - -Many of them go to the United States and Canada. Three lines of American -steamers touch here every week--the Anchor Line, the Allan Line, and the -Dominion Line--which offer low rates of transportation and carry many -third-class passengers away. - -The Giant's Causeway, of which much has been written, for it is one of -the wonders of the world, lies on the north coast of Ireland, about two -hours by rail from Belfast, and there are several trains daily to the -nearest town, called Portrush. There is an excellent hotel there, owned -by the railway company, which ranks as one of the best in Ireland, and -several other smaller hotels, inns, and boarding-houses innumerable for -the accommodation of the crowds of people who go there every year as -"trippers" and to spend their holidays. - -The Giant's Causeway, about five miles from Portrush, is reached by an -electric railroad, which, I am told, was the first ever successfully -operated in all the world. It was built in 1883, designed by the late -Sir William Siemens, the celebrated electrician, and operated with power -generated by the water of the Bush River. It was originally on the -third-rail system, but was changed into an ordinary overhead trolley -seven or eight years ago. The first trolley railroad was built in -Richmond, Va., three years later than this. - -The most interesting object at Portrush is an ancient but well -preserved Irishman of the type you see in pictures and formerly on the -stage, who stands at the street corner, where the railway tracks take a -curve, with a big dinner bell and rings it with almost superhuman energy -whenever the cars approach from either direction. This occupation -engages him from some unknown hour in the morning until some unknown -hour in the night, and if he ever eats or sleeps or rests that fact is -not easily ascertained by a stranger. There are no bells on the cars, no -alarm can be given for some reason, but nobody ever complained that he -was not warned of danger at the crossing by the bell ringer, who seems -to have a profound sense of his responsibilities. - -It is a delightful ride along rocky cliffs that have been worn into -fantastic forms by the incessant pounding of the ocean, and, although -many people express their disappointment at the Giant's Causeway, it is -well worth a visit because it is unique in geology. A stream of lava, at -the most twenty-six hundred feet wide and about fifteen miles long, was -arrested by some means upon the extreme north coast of Ireland, and in -cooling took the form of detached columns from six to thirty feet long -and from eight to twenty-four inches in diameter. There are more than -forty thousand of these columns in three parallel terraces, standing -upright and presenting a smooth surface, but they are all separate and -no two of them are of the same size or shape. There is said to be only -one triangle, only one nonagon, and only one of diamond shape in all the -forty thousand. Most of them are pentagons and hexagons and octagons. - -[Illustration: THE GIANT'S CAUSEWAY, PORTRUSH, NEAR BELFAST] - -In one place on the cliff there has been a landslide, which has thrown -the pillars in that locality into horizontal positions, but elsewhere -along the coast they are upright. At what is called the Giant's Loom the -columns are exposed for about thirty feet, but the rest of them form a -curious and extraordinary mosaic flooring, stretching out into the sea -and extending for several miles with remarkable regularity. Each column -is absolutely distinct from the rest of the forty thousand; none of them -are monoliths so far as can be seen, but they are divided into drums -about two feet in thickness, which fit into each other like a ball and -socket. The geologists generally agree that these extraordinary forms -are the result of the contraction and division of the lava in cooling, -and the process may be illustrated by the experiments with ordinary -laundry starch, which takes the form of similar miniature columns when -it cools. - -Mr. S.S. Knabenshue, American Consul at Belfast, has been searching out -the ancestry of the late President McKinley, who lived in the village -Conagher in County Antrim in the north of Ireland. The family were -Scotch Presbyterians and came over at some date unknown, and settled -upon a little farm of forty-two acres. Generation after generation were -born and lived and died there, leaving no record but that of honest, -hardworking, God-fearing tillers of the soil. The family burying lot is -in Derrykeighan Churchyard, where, among others, rest the remains of -Francis McKinlay, who was executed for participation in the Revolution -of 1798, and those of his wife and daughter. Francis J. Bigger, a widely -known Irish archæologist and historian, has traced the descent of the -late President from a great-great-grandfather who emigrated in 1743 and -settled in York County, Penn. His son David McKinley emigrated to Ohio -in 1814, and had a son named James whose son, William McKinley (Senior), -was the father of the late President. - -The cabin in which the family lived for generations is now used as a -cow-shed, the present owner of the property having built himself a more -pretentious residence. It has three windows and a door facing on the -street. The door opens directly into a large room, which was the dining -room and kitchen; the two bedrooms on each side of the fireplace have -been turned into cow stables, the windows being cut down and replaced by -doors so that the animals can enter from the outside. - -In the Irish village at the recent Franco-British Exposition in London -the McKinley cottage was reproduced, and the original doors, door -frames, windows, attic floor, staircase, and the iron crane and the big -pot from the fireplace all came from the real cottage, having been sold -to the owner. Consequently there is nothing left of the original cottage -except the stone walls and the thatched roof. - -[Illustration: BISHOP'S GATE, DERRY] - - - - - XVIII - - IRISH EMIGRATION AND COMMERCE - - -A gentleman from Erie, Penn., who had been traveling about Ireland for -several weeks made a suggestion which seemed to me to be worth adopting, -and I proposed it to several organizations for promoting the welfare of -Ireland without exciting much enthusiasm. There seems to be an -apprehension that somebody will make political capital out of it, and -very little is done without such motives. Politics and whisky are the -curses of Ireland. However, the plan is to apply to Ireland the -principle of "the old home week" that has been so popular and successful -in New Hampshire and other parts of New England, only it is proposed to -make it a month instead of a week and have special days set apart for -reunions in the different counties, at which as many natives of those -counties and children of natives as possible may come over from the -United States to visit their old homes and birthplaces. They can thus -renew their acquaintances with their former neighbors and the playmates -of their childhood, revive their interest in Irish affairs, and -stimulate the patriotism and love of "the ould sod" which are marked -characteristics of the race. - -It would be easy to make arrangements with the different steamship lines -to give low rates, not only those which touch regularly at Queenstown, -but also the Holland, Antwerp, Italian, Scandinavian, and other lines -which go by but do not stop at Irish ports. The tide of emigration is -westward and there are comparatively few steerage and second-class -passengers going east on the Cunard and White Star steamers that touch -at Queenstown. The steamship companies would make a low rate for the -round trip which would give an opportunity for thousands of Irish-born -citizens of the United States to spend a short vacation across the sea -visiting their old homes and the homes of their fathers. The fact that -everybody is doing the same would be a great incentive, and for a few -weeks Ireland would be crowded with her former sons and daughters. - -A very important result of such a visitation would be to leave in -Ireland large sums which would quicken business, increase the demand for -labor, create a market for everything that is made or grows, and flood -Ireland with money. Each visitor would contribute his share, although it -might be a little, but the total of the expenditures of such pilgrims -would be enormous and create a condition of prosperity greater than -Ireland has ever seen. Five million dollars has been expended in New -Hampshire by visitors from other States since the Old Home Week -celebrations and the advertisement of abandoned farms were first -undertaken. If that amount of money should be spent in Ireland it would -be of everlasting benefit to the people. If ten thousand visitors came -from the United States and spent only a hundred dollars each, which is a -very low average, it would leave a million dollars in circulation here. - -It might be natural also, as has occurred in New Hampshire, that many -natives who went to the States in their childhood and have become -wealthy and are now approaching the period of their rest and leisure -would purchase homes in Ireland and spend their declining years in the -scenes of their youth as Mr. Croker is doing, and three or four other -persons I met. There was a man at the hotel from Chicago looking for a -country place. He expects to invest a hundred thousand dollars in an -Irish home somewhere near Dublin. Then, think of the contributions that -would be made in aid of the churches, the benevolent institutions, and -other charities as well as to insure the comfort and happiness of -individuals in whom the visitors might be interested. One might suggest -many other ways in which Ireland might be benefited by such -celebrations, and those who participate in them will certainly have a -deep sense of gratification for their share. Perhaps the most important -result would be to correct the misapprehensions that are almost -universal concerning the material condition of Ireland. Things are much -different in many respects from what Irish-Americans have been led to -believe by newspaper articles and other publications, and it is right -and necessary that misapprehensions should be corrected. - -If the month of July, three or four years ahead, were selected for -reunions of the sons of Ireland, it would give sufficient time to make -the necessary arrangements, and local organizations in the different -countries could fix their own dates most convenient for reunions of -those who would come from those particular localities. Irishmen in -Australia, Canada, South Africa, and other parts of the world would be -glad to join their American cousins in carrying out such a plan. I met -an American priest at Cork who was enthusiastic over the suggestion and -declared that twenty families in his own parish would undoubtedly come -over on such an occasion to visit their old homes. And he expressed the -surprise that I felt about the improved conditions of the Irish people -and the prospects for peace and happiness and prosperity in the island. - -There are now nearly two million natives of Ireland in the United -States, and nearly six million people whose parents were born there or -who were born there themselves. - -The following statement will show the number of natives of Ireland in -the United States as returned by each census since 1850: - - 1850 961,719 - 1860 1,611,304 - 1870 1,855,827 - 1880 1,854,571 - 1890 1,871,509 - -The census of 1900 shows 3,991,417 citizens of the United States both of -whose parents were born in Ireland. - -Since the census of 1900 was taken the average arrivals from Ireland -have been about thirty-eight thousand per year, which has added at least -three hundred thousand to the total of 1900, and, making due allowance -for deaths and departures, increased the number of natives in the -United States to nearly two millions. - -The improved conditions in Ireland during the last few years have caused -a considerable decrease in emigration. At the present time a smaller -number of people are seeking work in other countries than ever before -since the famine of the '40s. This is the most significant evidence of -the prosperity of the country and the success of the government in -promoting contentment and improving the condition of the peasants by the -enactment of the land laws and the work of the Congested Districts -Board, of which I have written at length in previous letters. - -Low tide in emigration was reached during the first six months of 1908, -when the total number departing from Ireland was only 13,511, being a -decrease of 8,713 in comparison with the corresponding period of 1907. -Of these 9,974 went to the United States and 1,598 to Canada; 1,868 went -from Leinster Province, 3,762 from Munster, 4,611 from Ulster, and 3,270 -from Connaught. - -The total number of emigrants from Ireland in 1907 was 39,082, but -unless something extraordinary happens the total for this year will fall -below 25,000. - -During the last fifteen years the population of Ireland has decreased -292,370, and during the last fifty years it has fallen off three and one -half millions. During the last fifteen years the population of Scotland -has increased 689,825 and that of England and Wales has increased -5,461,197. The birth rate in Ireland is larger than it is in either -England or Scotland, and the death rate is about the same, so that the -decrease in population has been entirely due to emigration. - -Since the distribution of the great estates in Ireland among the tenants -in small farms there is a growing complaint concerning the lack of -labor; and the emigration of young men to the United States and the -migration of farm laborers who spend from five to nine months in -Scotland every year where wages are higher than in Ireland are creating -a very serious problem. - -There are in Ireland about 400,000 farms, of which 165,000, embracing -three-fourths of the total area, average more than thirty acres, and -that is all one man can cultivate. All farms more than thirty acres in -extent, and many of smaller area, require hired labor, which has usually -received about 12 shillings per week until the last two or three years, -when farm wages were advanced to 14 shillings and 16 shillings a -week--that is, $3.50 and $4. The recent census shows that 217,652 men -are employed as laborers upon these 165,000 farms and that an average of -76,870 extra hands are employed during the harvest. During the last -three years, although the area under cultivation has been growing -smaller annually, it has been difficult to obtain a sufficient amount of -labor to carry on the harvests, and wages, in many cases, have advanced -to 18 shillings a week. - -Notwithstanding the demand for home labor, 24,312 persons, including 750 -women, left Ireland in May, 1907, and went to England and Scotland, -where they remained to work on the farms until the following November. -Most of them went from the northwestern part of Ireland, from counties -Mayo, Roscommon, Donegal, Galway, and Sligo, which have the least land -under cultivation in the country. - -An investigation made by the estates commissioners showed that 3,245 of -these persons had holdings of five acres, 987 had holdings of between -five and ten acres, 912 between ten and fifteen acres, 458 between -fifteen and twenty acres, 471 between twenty and twenty-five acres, 93 -between twenty-five and thirty acres, 102 between thirty and forty -acres, and 75 had farms of more than forty acres. Most of them left -their little farms to be cultivated by their wives and sons and -daughters during their absence. Among the migrants were 9,308 sons of -farmers, who work on their father's farms when they are in Ireland, but -go to England and Scotland because they are able to make more money than -by staying at home. - -The average wages of these migrants was 26 shillings a week, and they -varied from 20 to 30 shillings, according to intelligence, with food, -lodging, and in many cases their traveling expenses one way. It is -customary for the Scotch and English farmers to pay the railway fare -over and leave the migrant to buy his ticket home in the fall. Most of -the migrants save the larger part of their wages. It is estimated that -the average net savings was £12, or $60 per person, and that the total -amount taken back to Ireland at the end of the season was about -£275,000, or $1,375,000 in American money. These savings are sufficient -to keep their families through the rest of the year with the aid of -their small farms, fishing, weaving, lacemaking, and other home -industries. - -According to the reports of the estates commission, the number of farm -hands employed in 1871, in addition to the owners of the land and their -families, was 446,782, or more than twice as many as are employed at -present. In 1881 the number was 300,091. The number of occasional -laborers or extra harvest hands employed in 1871 was 189,829, as against -76,870 employed in 1907, which indicates in a striking manner the decay -of agriculture in Ireland. - -At the same time wages have increased 30 per cent and the cost of -boarding farm hands has increased 40 per cent. The hands now demand -better accommodations and better food, and everything they require is -much more expensive than it was thirty years ago. The average wages for -steady farm hands in Ireland with board, according to the official -statistics, is $12 a month, while ten years ago labor was plenty at $9 a -month. Wages of household servants are about the same and have advanced -as rapidly. - -The census statistics of Ireland are quite interesting and show that for -the last ten years the population has remained fairly stationary, the -excess of births over deaths making up the loss by emigration. The -latest vital statistics available are for the year 1905, which show a -population of 4,391,565, an excess of births over deaths of 27,671; an -emigration of 30,676, and a net decrease in population of 2,915. The -following table shows the number of births, deaths, and emigrants for -ten years: - - Years Births Deaths Emigrants - - 1895 106,113 84,395 48,703 - 1896 107,641 75,700 39,995 - 1897 106,664 83,839 32,535 - 1898 105,457 82,404 32,241 - 1899 103,900 79,699 41,232 - 1900 101,459 87,606 45,288 - 1901 100,976 79,119 39,613 - 1902 101,863 77,676 40,190 - 1903 101,831 77,358 39,789 - 1904 103,811 79,513 36,902 - 1905 102,832 75,071 30,676 - ------- ------ ------ - Average 103,811 80,731 39,549 - -Through the efforts of Mr. Boland, M.P., the foreign commerce of Ireland -is now given independently in the statistical reports of the United -Kingdom, and the following table shows the imports and exports for -recent years: - - Imports Exports - - 1904 £53,185,523 £49,398,536 - 1905 54,793,183 51,174,318 - 1906 56,365,299 55,598,597 - 1907 60,521,245 61,617,225 - -It will be noticed that there was a considerable increase every year in -both columns, but the increase in exports was considerably greater than -in imports. This increase was particularly noticeable in live stock -shipments to England. In 1905 there were 1,852,423 head of horses, -mules, cattle, sheep, and swine shipped from Ireland to England, and in -1907 the shipments had increased to 2,025,292 head. - -The exports of butter also increased, and Ireland now has the lead among -the nations that contribute to the British poultry market. In 1907 the -value of the poultry exported from Ireland to Great Britain was -£725,441. - -Ireland ought to furnish all the bacon that the British people eat. -Irish bacon is the best in the world, and brings the highest prices, -but, notwithstanding that fact, more bacon was imported into England -from the United States, from Denmark, and from Canada than from Ireland. - -The exports of manufactured goods--linens, woolens, and other -textiles--from Ireland during the fiscal year 1907, exceeded -£20,000,000. The imports of similar articles amounted to £27,000,000. -The Irish import a vast amount of bacon from the United States when they -ought to supply their own market. - -The following table will show the commerce between the United States and -Ireland during the last three years: - - Imports from Exports to - Ireland Ireland - - 1906 $11,456,739 $10,824,350 - 1907 12,023,469 9,593,658 - 1908 8,899,799 10,101,065 - -The falling off of the exports from Ireland in 1908 was due entirely to -the panic of that year in the United States, which caused an almost -total stagnation of trade for several months. - -There is no limit to the demand for Irish agricultural produce at good -prices, but the cultivated area of the island continues to diminish -annually, and the area given up to pasturage and the breeding of cattle -and sheep increases. The Irish farmer has an unlimited market for bacon, -hams, butter, eggs, poultry, potatoes, and other vegetables in London, -Liverpool, Manchester, Birmingham, Leeds, Glasgow, and other great -manufacturing cities which are now very largely fed by Holland and -Denmark. More eggs and poultry, more butter and bacon, are imported into -England from Denmark than from Ireland, notwithstanding the difference -in distance and cost of transportation. The provision dealers of the -great manufacturing cities of England always have agents in Ireland, and -the Department of Agriculture and the Irish Agricultural Organization -Society are both active and efficient in securing and cultivating -markets for Irish products. They are advancing large sums of money to -establish co-operative dairies and to improve the dairy cattle, the -swine, and poultry of Ireland, but many of the farmers are indifferent -to their opportunities and with the happy-go-lucky characteristic of the -Irish race are happy and satisfied so long as they have enough to feed -their own mouths. - -Sir Horace Plunkett, who has been especially active in trying to improve -the condition of the farmers of Ireland, says: "The settlement of the -land question and the new system of governmental aid to agriculture are -proceeding rapidly and doing great good, but along neither of those two -lines of national advancement, nor along both combined, is agricultural -prosperity to be attained. The result depends entirely upon voluntary -individual effort and co-operation. The British market will take all the -produce we can send, and the more we send of uniform quality--and this -can be done by co-operation--the more it will pay for our produce. It -follows that every dairy farmer in Ireland is not only interested in -seeing that every farmer in his district forwards the best butter he can -produce, but he is also concerned to see that farmers in other districts -do the same. The ownership of the land by the occupier, which has been -brought about by legislation, will not of itself give the Irish farmer -the prosperity he hopes for. It is not only the farms, but the habits of -the people upon the land which need improvement. Capable under certain -influences of surprising industry, they lack the qualities which secure -the fruits of industry, because their education and economic -circumstances have not developed the industrial habit. They are surely -clever in their resourcefulness and shrewd in their bargainings, but as -a rule in the management of their farms and commercial dealings they -display a total lack of the most elementary principles of either -technical or business knowledge. In spite of a passionate devotion to -their country, they emigrate to America whenever they can obtain the -money to pay their passage, and seem to have no fixed purpose or -ambition to develop the resources that lie around them." - -The factories of Ireland are confined almost entirely to the northern -province of Ulster, although a few mills and other textile -manufactories are scattered in other parts of the island. The textile -and other manufacturing industries have enjoyed unprecedented and -extraordinary prosperity for eight or ten years. - -Household industries, particularly the manufacture of handwoven tweeds -and various kinds of lace, received a gratifying impetus from the -advertising obtained at the Irish village at the Columbian Exposition at -Chicago in 1893, under the patronage of Lady Aberdeen, who for twenty -years had interested herself in the practical and successful development -of lacemaking and hand weaving of woolen fabrics. Her energetic efforts -have been supplemented by the Royal Irish Industries Association and the -Royal Dublin Society, both of which hold annual exhibitions, offer -prizes for excellence of design and workmanship, and provide agencies -for the sale of homemade and convent-made products in London and other -cities. - -The Congested Districts Board has given much practical aid and -encouragement by loaning money to people who cannot afford to buy looms, -by sending teachers in industries throughout the island into the -households, by establishing fixed schools at central points, and by -furnishing thread and other materials to lacemakers and weavers, for -which it collects payments after the product is sold. All through the -poor districts of Ireland, where for centuries there has been a -desperate struggle for existence, thousands of looms and spinning-wheels -may now be found in the cottages of the poor peasants, where both the -parents and the children have been instructed in spinning and in weaving -by government teachers. And in almost every village on the west coast -there is a lace school attended by from twelve to fifty young women -under the instruction of a patient and tactful teacher working with -thread advanced to them without payment by the Congested Districts -Board. The lace produced is sold for them at the agencies of the board, -and they are thus enabled to contribute several pounds a month to the -incomes of their families. - -It is a familiar joke that our principal imports from Ireland are -priests, politicians, policemen, and baseball pitchers, but they are not -all by any means. I do not know what other country has furnished so many -famous Americans--generals, admirals, statesmen, politicians, -financiers, merchant princes, actors, writers, lawyers, and other -professional men too numerous to mention. If you will look through the -list of the generals during our Civil War, if some one will make up a -catalogue of millionaires and mining kings and empire-builders and -captains of industry they will realize that all the Irishmen who have -come to the United States have not gone into politics or pugilism or -baseball teams. I must say, however, that the Irish have almost the -monopoly of the prize ring and the baseball diamond. - -Cardinal Logue made a speech upon his return from America in 1908, in -which he discussed this subject at length and related what he had -himself seen of Irish millionaires and other successful business men in -the United States. He spoke particularly of New York City, and alluded -with gratification to the fact that the subway of New York City and the -new tunnel under the Hudson River were both built by Irishmen. - -"I was proud to know," he said, "of the vast number of our countrymen -who were honored citizens of the United States. They have asserted -themselves, especially in New York, and occupy the leading positions -there. You find Irishmen prominent in every walk of life, you find them -among the most distinguished of the judges on the bench, you find them -among the most successful barristers, you find them among the most -eminent in medicine and in the other learned professions, and then I -found that the largest contracts in New York [and he might have said in -the entire country] had been allotted to Irishmen, because of their -ability to organize and carry out great works. I visited the tunnel -under the Hudson and was proud to think that that great work had been -carried out by an Irishman who had carved out his own advancement and -had made his own way in life by his native talent and genius. Then, -again, when they were undertaking the stupendous work of building -subways under the city of New York they gave that contract to an -Irishman, who succeeded in completing it to the satisfaction of -everybody, and it was one of the greatest works ever undertaken by man. - -"And they succeed in other branches of life also, equally well," -continued the cardinal. "As I was sailing up the Hudson River one day we -passed a city called Hoboken, and I was told that it was inhabited -exclusively by Germans with the exception of two solitary Irishmen, and -one of them, Lord, is mayor of the city and the other is prefect of -police. That is an indication of how our people are going ahead in -America. And even in the humbler walks of life I found them hard -working, well educated, and giving every sign of having retained their -own faith and that love for Ireland which is the characteristic of our -race in every part of the world. Some of them of the third and fourth -generations were as warm and as strong in their love for Ireland as -those born in this dear old land of ours." - -Cardinal Logue forgets that the ancestors of the men he speaks of in -America were once kings of Ireland, and they have the right to success; -but I often wonder what would have happened if all the great Irishmen we -read about--the Duke of Wellington, Lord Roberts, Lord Kitchener, -General Sheridan, A.T. Stewart, John W. Mackey, John McDonald, Thomas F. -Ryan, and the thousands of other famous Irishmen--had remained here -instead of going out into a wider field of fame and usefulness. The -result would be incomprehensible. - -And there is a good deal of truth in the joke about the kings of -Ireland. At the time of St. Patrick and up to the Norman invasion in the -twelfth century Ireland was divided into many little kingdoms in -addition to the four grand divisions which correspond to the provinces -to-day. The O'Connors were kings of Connaught, the O'Brians of Munster, -the O'Neills of Ulster, the McMurroughs of Leinster, the Kavanaughs of -Wexford, the O'Carrolls of Tipperary, the MacCarthys of Cork, the -O'Sullivans and the O'Donaghues ruled in the southwest, the O'Flahertys -in Galway--and so on through a long list. What is a county now was a -kingdom then, and the descendants of the rulers still bear their names. - - - - - XIX - - IRISH CHARACTERISTICS AND CUSTOMS - - -If any one should write a book on Irish characteristics, I think he -should rank good humor as the most prominent, and that makes up for a -great many defects. We were on the island for nearly three months and -visited more than half the counties, seeing a good deal of both city and -country life, and coming in contact with all classes of people, and it -is safe to say that no one uttered a cross or an unkind word to us, but -everywhere and under all circumstances and from everybody we received a -most cordial welcome and the most courteous treatment. And when we asked -questions which many times must have seemed silly and unnecessary to the -people to whom they were addressed, the replies have always been polite -and considerate. - -Irish retorts are proverbial. For "reppartay" the race is famous, and we -have had numerous illustrations. Wit is spontaneous. It doesn't take an -Irishman long to frame an answer, and it is generally to the point. -"Blarney" is abundant. Every old woman calls you her "darlin'," and -every man calls you "me lud" or "yer honor." The insidious flattery that -is used on all occasions does no harm to the giver or the receiver. It -makes the world brighter and happier, though it may be flippant and -insincere. - -[Illustration: IRISH MARKET WOMEN] - -The man who "always said the meanest things in such a charming way" must -have been an Irishman, although I do not remember to have heard a mean -thing said of anybody over there. The Irish race are not diplomatic in -their actions; history demonstrates that, but no race is so much so in -conversation, and the tact and taffy shown in the treatment of strangers -are admirable. Nor does the Irish peasant wear his heart upon his -sleeve. He may be frank and sincere in his expressions, but it is quite -as probable that he is otherwise. He has the faculty of concealing the -bitterest malice under the gentlest smiles and flattering compliments. - -It is always difficult to get a serious answer from a native in Ireland. -The peasant is always suspicious, and, while he will make himself -agreeable and amuse a stranger with his wit and humor, it is difficult -to get deeper into his confidence and seldom safe to place any reliance -upon what he says. This, I am told, is the result of centuries of -persecution, treachery, and danger, so that the Irish race from -necessity learned to wear the mask, until it is now a habit. - -Notwithstanding their ready replies and their apparent frankness, you -are never satisfied with the information they give you when you question -them upon serious topics. You are convinced that they are not expressing -their real opinions. I make it a rule to discuss the land laws and -political policies with car drivers and other people I meet of the -working class, but have never been able to get an opinion from them. I -have never yet heard an Irish peasant express an unkind opinion of -anybody. After talking with them about politicians, landlords, and -others, I feel like the child in the cemetery who asked where bad people -were buried. - -But what you most admire is the witty and ingenious way in which they -turn a mistake. A young Irishman stepped up to a gentleman the other -day, and with a musical brogue inquired: - -"I'm thinkin', sir, that you are Mr. Blake." - -"You're thinkin' wrong," was the surly reply. - -"I beg yer honor's pardon; I sez to mysilf, when I seen you, sez I, that -must be Mr. John Blake for whom I have a missage; but if it's not, sez I -to mysilf, it's a moighty fine upsthanding young gintleman, whoiver he -may be." - -Sometimes there is a tinge of sarcasm, as when an old hag asked: "Won't -yer lordship buy an old woman's prayers for a penny; that's chape." - -"The hivins be your bed, me darlin'," was the way an old beggar woman -expressed her thanks. - -Sir Walter Scott says: "I gave a fellow a shilling on one occasion when -a sixpence was the proper fee. - -"'Remember you owe me a sixpence, Pat,' I said. - -"'May yer honor live till I pay ye!'" - -When he was leaving the ruins of the Seven Churches at Glendalough, Lord -Plunkett, his escort, whispered to the custodian: - -"That's Sir Walter Scott; he's a great poet." - -"Divil a bit," was the reply, "he's an honorable gintleman, an' he gave -me half a crown"--when the fee was a shilling. - -Very often we hear poetic expressions from the most unexpected sources. -As we were driving down to Ballyhack from Waterford, the jaunting car -driver pointed at a mile stone with his whip and remarked: - -"The most lonesome thing in Ireland; without another of its kind within -a mile of it." - -The common use of the name of the Creator is often shocking to strangers -and seems blasphemous, but it is an unconscious habit. The word is -constantly on the tongue of the poor and not always in a profane sense. -You hear, "God bless you," "God prosper you," "Praise God," and similar -expressions continually. One neighbor seldom greets another good morning -or good night, without an appeal to the Almighty or the Redeemer or the -Holy Virgin. "Howly Mother" is the commonest of ejaculations, but Irish -profanity is always associated with blessings and not with curses. You -never hear the anathemas that are so common in the United States. Nobody -ever damns you; if the name of the Almighty is appealed to it is always -for his blessing and not for condemnation. - -Everybody in Ireland does not speak with a brogue. It has often been -said that the purest English is spoken in Dublin and Aberdeen, but that -is true to a very limited extent among the highly educated and the -cultured classes with whom strangers do not often come in contact. In -some places the brogue is so dense that a stranger requires an -interpreter. It is difficult to understand an ordinary remark. And you -hear the brogue in the pulpit as well as in the slums. There is no form -of speech richer or more musical than the brogue of an eloquent -Irishman, and his natural gifts of oratory enable him to convey the -meaning of his words to the fullest degree by his accent. I never heard -the service of the Episcopal church read in a more eloquent and -impressive manner than by a young curate with a brogue "that you could -cut with a knife," as the saying is. There is nothing to compare with it -except the "sweet, soft, southern accent in the United States." When you -inquire where the Irish got their brogue, the answer will be, "At the -same shop that the Yankee got his twang." - -We know that one of the most conspicuous and charming traits of the -Irish race is to have a pleasant word for everybody, no matter what is -in their hearts, on the theory attributed to St. Augustine that a drop -of honey will attract more flies than a barrel of vinegar. The Irish -call it "deludering" and "soothering," both very expressive words. - -The pleasant way in which questions are answered is very gratifying, -especially to a stranger. You never hear a gruff word in Ireland. An -Englishman is brutally abrupt, but the Irish are always agreeable. The -other day when I asked the guard of a railway train how soon it would -start he replied promptly: - -"Not till yer honor is aboard, sir." - -When I complained to the hotel porter that it was raining all the time -in Ireland he replied apologetically: - -"But it's such a gintle rain, sir." - -Some of the retorts you hear from the common people are highly poetic. -When I bought a bunch of flowers from an old woman in the street the -other day she replied: - -"God bless your kind heart, sir; your mother must have been a saint." - -"Good luck to your ladyship's happy face this morning," was the greeting -of an old hag to my daughter. - -"Oh, let me poor eyes look at ye, me lady, and your voice is as swate as -your face." - -In a little book I picked up one day, I found a dialogue between a -farmer and fox, as follows: - -"Good morrow, Fox." - -"Good morrow, Farmer." - -"And what are ye ating, my dear little fox?" said the farmer -insinuatingly. "Is it a goose you stole from me?" - -"No, my dear farmer, it is the leg of a salmon." - -One day I was speaking to the jarvey who was driving us about in the -jaunting car, of a neighbor I had met, who had spent some years in -America. He had returned to his native place with a "tidy purseful" of -money, and was looking around for some business in which to invest his -little capital. - -"He seems to think very well of himself," I suggested. - -"He acts as if he came over with Cromwell a thousand years ago, and he -looks down on thim of us who was kings of all the counthry, even before -the mountains was made." - -An American tourist said to his driver: "Why do you speak to your horse -in English, when you talk Celtic to your friends on the road?" - -"Sure, an' isn't the English good enough for a beast?" was the reply. - -The term "himself" is used to describe the boss, the head of a family, -the chief man in an association, the commander of a ship, or the colonel -of a regiment. It is applied in the same way as the term "old man" that -we are accustomed to in the United States. When a subaltern in the army -speaks of "himself," you may understand that he means the colonel of the -regiment. When an employee of a railway company alludes to "himself," it -is the general manager. And when a sailor uses that term he means the -captain of the ship. Wives use it to describe their husbands; children -refer to their fathers in that manner and workmen to their -superintendent or the boss of the gang: - -"Did himself give yez the order?" - -"I will not take any directions except from himself." - -"You'll have to wait till himself comes in," said a young boy behind the -counter in a Dublin shop. - -"We're waiting for himself to come home to dinner," was the remark of a -good wife, when I inquired for her husband. - -"Himself has not been very well lately." - -The word "Himself" is frequently written upon envelopes, where it has -the same significance as the word "Personal" or "Private" with us, and -is a warning that no one should open it but the person to whom it is -addressed. - -But these ancient customs are being abandoned, and most of the -superstitions are dying out. The Irish people are the most highly -imaginative and superstitious in the world, and the national schools are -blamed for the change that is taking place among them in this respect. -John Dillon told me in Dublin that he was not quite satisfied in his own -mind whether this was a good thing for the country. Personally, he would -much prefer that the people would adhere to the customs and preserve the -superstitions of their ancestors. But there is more than one opinion on -that subject. The superintendent of the insane asylum at Killarney -asserts that the most prolific causes of insanity here are the -imagination, the superstitions, and the habitual use of strong tea. But -the national schools and the Christian religion have not been able to -banish some of the most baneful spirits like the Banshee, which still -gives notice of approaching death, sorrow, and misfortune, and still -commands the faith and confidence of the great majority of the Irish -people. Even those who ridicule the Banshee and deny its omens hate to -hear the cry. The superstition is inborn. It is like the evil eye in -Italy. People who do not believe in it will nevertheless dodge a person -who is accused of carrying such a curse. - -There is a great deal of regret, which all of us must share, that the -common people of Ireland have abandoned many of the quaint and odd -customs that gave them their individuality, and are taking up modern -English notions instead. The old sports and games which were inherited -from the Gaelic ancestors are becoming obsolete. The peasants never -dance in the fields nowadays, and their festivals are very like those of -the English yeomen. They are taking up cricket, golf, tennis, and other -English games, which you see them playing in the parks and on the -commons, instead of the distinctively Irish amusements that were so -common in the past generation. The Celtic League is working for a -revival with a little success. - -A newcomer is always puzzled by the large number of names on the map -beginning with the word "Bally." In that amusing book called "Penelope's -Experiences in Ireland," one of the girls suggested that in making up -their itinerary they should first visit all the places called "Bally," -and after that all the places whose names end or begin with "kill." That -is the Gaelic word for a grove or a clump of trees. - -The word "Bally" means "town," and corresponds with the word "ville" in -our geographical nomenclature. The map of Ireland is spattered with -names with such a prefix. Here are some of them: - - Ballybain Ballybunion Ballyhiskey - Ballybarney Ballycumber Ballyhu - Ballybeg Ballydehob Ballyhully - Ballybully Ballydoo Ballyknockane - Ballybought Ballyduff Ballylug - Ballyboy Ballygammon Ballymoney - Ballybrack Ballygasoon Ballyhack - Ballynew Ballyroe Ballywater - Ballywilliam Ballydaniel Ballyragget - - -Each of these names has a significance. Ballyragget means a town where -there is a ford, Ballyroe is a red town, Ballysallagn is a dirty town. -Ballybunion was named in honor of a man called Bunion, Ballydoo is a -black town, Ballykeel is a narrow town, Ballykill is the town of the -wood or the town of the woods. - -Kilcooly is the church of the corner, Kilcarne is the church of the -carne or glen, Kilboy is a yellow church, Killduff is a church of black -stone, Killroot is a red church, and so on. Almost every name in Ireland -has some significance. - -I saw only one harp during the three months we were in Ireland, and that -was being played by a man in the street, who had an excellent touch and -good expression. Street singers have almost entirely disappeared. The -love of music and the love of fighting, however, cannot be eradicated -from the race that has possessed them since creation, and the Celtic -League is doing much to revive the ancient popular airs like "Home, -Sweet Home," "Annie Laurie," and "Way Down on the Suwanee River." All of -these are adaptations from melodies that have been sung by mother and -child among the peasants of Ireland for centuries. General Sherman used -to tell of a joke on himself when he was visiting Ireland shortly after -the war. Hearing a band coming down the street playing "Marching through -Georgia" he naturally assumed that it was a serenade in his honor. He -put on his other coat, brushed his hair and whiskers and sat down to -await a summons which did not come. After the music had passed beyond -hearing he asked his aid-de-camp to find out what had happened. Colonel -Audenreid, who was with him, quickly returned to explain that a local -military company had marched down the street to the music of an old -Irish air which had been plagiarized for one of our war songs. - -The last of the bards was Carolan, who died in 1788, and whose memory is -preserved by a tablet in St. Patrick's Cathedral, Dublin. The ancient -bards were more influential than warriors or priests or statesmen, and -stood next in rank to the king. The praise or the censure of a bard was -alike potent. Their satire was as much to be feared as the malediction -of a priest, and their approval was as precious as the gifts of the -gods. - - - - - XX - - WICKLOW AND WEXFORD - - -South of Dublin, along the coast, is a string of summer resorts and -bathing places which are attractive in their way, but ought to be very -much more so. They are very different from what we are accustomed to. -They look more like factory towns than summer resorts. Although land is -cheap and there is plenty of it, the hotels and houses are built in -solid blocks usually facing upon a highway that runs along the shore. -There is no shade, no glorious groves like those which surround the -country houses half a mile away; no lawns, no cozy green nooks; only -masses of brick and mortar divided into tenements twenty-five feet wide, -in the presence of the majesty of the sea. Across the roadway, on the -beach, are rows of little frame houses painted dove color, that are -called "bathing machines." Each is independent of the other and is about -four feet square, with a narrow door and, inside, a seat made of board -resting on cleats nailed to the side, and hooks fastened above it on -which the bather hangs his or her garments. When the bather is properly -clad in the bathing suit, the "machine" is picked up by two stalwart -attendants, who run poles through the sides of the house and carry it -down to the edge of the water, where my lady may step into the surf. - -[Illustration: AN ANCIENT BRIDGE IN COUNTY WICKLOW] - -Back from the seashore all the way down to Waterford on the coast of St. -George's Channel is a succession of beautiful villas and mansions and -farms, each surrounded by lawns and groves and, in some cases, primeval -forests. It is the "Garden of Ireland" and there is no sign of poverty -or oppression or unhappiness visible to the human eye. There is no -lovelier land on earth. "The Fair Hills of Holy Ireland" are -unsurpassed in gentle natural beauty, and about forty miles south of -Dublin, in the Wicklow hills, is a little patch of Switzerland -surrounded by mountains that rise as high as three thousand feet. You -can go there by train from Dublin three or four times a day, taking a -jaunting car at Rathdrum or Rathnew station. In the tourist season -coaches await the arrival of every train and carry "trippers" through on -excursion tickets and at very low rates. - -The more enjoyable way, however, is to hire an automobile at Dublin -(five guineas or $26.25 a day) and run down to Glendalough by one route, -stay over night at the hotel on the lake and return the next day by -another. In the meantime circle around through the country and catch its -beauties as you go. The only drawback, as I have said before, is the -high walls that hide the beautiful estates. These were erected, -generations ago, I suppose, because the proprietors were afraid of -losing their property. But notwithstanding these massive protections -many an Irish estate has slipped out of the hands of its owner. It is a -habit they formed about the time of the conquest and the invasion of the -Normans. - -Some of the most beautiful and valuable property in Ireland has been -lost at the gambling table or at the race course; more has been -sacrificed for political partisanship and more for religious causes. In -the early days kings used to have a funny way of taking a man's property -from him because he didn't go to the same church and confess the same -creed. Half the land in Ireland has changed owners for this reason, and -some of it several times. Henry VIII., as the newspapers might say, was -a prominent real estate dealer along about 1540, and Queen Elizabeth did -a large business about 1584, at the time of the "flight of the earls," -and nearly half the island changed hands by her majesty's grace without -the payment of a dollar. When the earls who had resisted her authority -ran away to France, she calmly wiped their noble names off the books of -the recorder of deeds and transferred their property to English -"undertakers," as they were called, because they "undertook" to drive -off the rebellious Irish occupants and repopulate the land with loyal -English colonists. Many of the great landlords of Ireland of to-day -obtained their property and their titles at this time. - -And then a gentleman named Oliver Cromwell went into the real estate -business over in Ireland about the middle of the seventeenth century. He -drove the inhabitants of a vast area from their farms and the towns in -which they lived and compelled them to take refuge in other parts of the -country, while he issued scrip that could be located upon the farms they -left and paid his soldiers with it because he was short of cash. Many of -his soldiers remained here and married and were the ancestors of the -present population. Others sold their scrip to speculators who located -upon large tracts and eventually disposed of them to men who had the -money. - -These real estate transactions of Henry VIII., Elizabeth, and Cromwell -have been severely criticised, but they must have been right because we -did very much the same thing with our Indians, the original owners of -the "Land of the Free and the Home of the Brave." Whenever an Indian -tribe has rebelled about something, just as the Irish have rebelled from -time to time since the conquest of Henry II., we have driven them from -the homes of their forefathers; have penned them up in reservations, and -have sold their lands to immigrants from Ireland, Sweden, and other -European countries, precisely as the English sovereigns disposed of the -homes and the farms of the Irish. We did it in the name of civilization; -they did it, very often, because they could not worship the same God in -the same way. - -About an hour by automobile from Dublin, beyond Bray and Greystone and -other summer resorts, is a lovely place that you will be pleased to hear -about because there is a pretty story attached to it. It is an old Tudor -mansion of the seventeenth century, covered with luxuriant ivy and half -concealed by ilex, arbutus, hawthorn, and rhododendron bushes that are -all in bloom in May. They call it "Hollybrook" and it is the seat of Sir -Robert Adair Hodson, whose great-grandfather, Sir Robert Adair, a -dashing soldier, was knighted by his king on the field of battle for -the handy way he had of amputating the heads of his majesty's enemies. -He afterward became a lieutenant-general and one of the most famous -soldiers in the United Kingdom. But what interests us more is that he -was the young gentleman for whom the song "Robin Adair" was written by -Lady Katherine Keppel. She loved him very much, they say, and broke her -heart for him. - -Just beyond the railway station of Rathdrum is the Avondale estate, the -seat of the family of the late Charles S. Parnell, the Irish political -leader, which has recently been purchased by the new Irish department of -agriculture, as a school for the training of foresters. Here we enter -that romantic region known as the Vale of Avoca, which has been -described in a pretty ballad by Tom Moore, called "The Meeting of the -Waters"--the rivers Avonbeg and Avonmore. Here was a meeting place of -the Druids in ancient times. Their altars and seats of judgment remain, -and you can see the hurling stone of the great Finn McCool, which is -fourteen feet long, ten feet wide, and seven feet thick, but he was so -strong that he had no trouble in tossing it about like a football. - -Beyond "The Meeting of the Waters," seven or eight miles over a very -attractive road, are the Woods of Shillelagh, which gave their name to -the traditional weapon of offense and defense, formerly carried by every -Irishman, but long ago obsolete. You can buy genuine shillalahs at the -curio stores, those that have been in actual use and "have cracked many -a head," as the dealer will tell you. You will find them also put away -in the cabins with other heirlooms, with the christening clothes of the -gossoons and the confirmation dresses of the colleens, but that -interesting and typical weapon of the Irish peasant has entirely -disappeared. It was a blackthorn stick, about eighteen inches long, from -an inch to an inch and a half thick and a knot at one end of it. The -best material in Ireland was found in the woods that surround the -ancient little village of Shillelagh--hence the name. - -Wicklow is especially fascinating to the artist and the antiquarian. The -scenery is not so wild nor on so large a scale as that of the Alps, but -bits of Switzerland in miniature are scattered about among the Wicklow -hills and, indeed, several other very respectable mountains. Douce is -2,384 feet high, Duffhill 2,364, Gravale, 2,352, and Kippure 2,473 feet, -and they rise immediately from the level of tide water within a few -miles of the sea, so that they seem much higher. There are twenty-one -mountains more than two thousand feet high, three more than two thousand -five hundred, and one more than three thousand (Lugnaynilla) in this -immediate neighborhood and within twenty miles of the coast. Concealed -among them are several charming little lakes and rugged canyons and -glens and dense forests. Nearly all of these are associated with -religious history, with the lives of several saints who went there in -retreat for meditation or lived like hermits in the caves and dells and -prayed for the salvation of the world. - -This was the home of Laurence Sterne, author of "Uncle Toby" and -"Corporal Trim." The record of his baptism is inscribed upon the -registry of a quaint old church, and in 1720, according to the local -traditions, he accidentally fell into a mill race and narrowly escaped -being crushed to death by the water wheel which was working at the time. -This was the land of the O'Tooles. The ruins of Castle Keven, the -stronghold of the clan, are visited daily in the summer by hundreds of -people. - -[Illustration: THE VALE OF AVOCA, COUNTY WICKLOW] - -Glendalough is known as "the ancient City of Refuge," and the weird, -mysterious, somber scenery is associated with one of the strangest -manifestations of human piety that may be seen anywhere. For there, -within the shadow of gaunt and gloomy mountains, St. Kevin, "The Fair -Born," a prince of the House of Leinster, which produced five saints in -a single generation, three brothers and two sisters, built seven tiny -churches in a group. It is known as the Valley of the Seven Churches. -Each of them has its own individuality. Each of them is dedicated to a -different saint, and all have been the homes and the places of worship -and the object of pilgrimage for holy men and devout Christians for -thirteen hundred years. As Sir Walter Scott says, they are probably -the oldest buildings now surviving in any country in which the Christian -religion was taught, and naturally have a corresponding interest and -sanctity to all who love their Lord. - -St. Kevin died in 618 after a remarkable experience. The date of his -birth is unknown. He stands in fame and sanctity among the Irish saints -after St. Patrick, St. Bridget, and St. Columba only. His uncle, the -Bishop of Ardstrad, was his preceptor, and, having renounced his claims -to the throne of Leinster, and to all the pomps and vanities of the -world, he retired to this retreat and here spent the rest of his life. -His biography has been written several times, and as far back as the -ninth century. It has recently been rewritten and published at the -expense of the Marquis of Bute. One of the early writers calls him "A -soldier of Christ in the land of Eire, a high name over sea and wave, -chaste and fair, living in the glen of the broad line, in the valley of -the two lakes." - - "Kevin loves a narrow hovel. - It is a work of religious mortification - To be everlastingly praying - But a great shelter against demons." - -St. Kevin lived in a hollow tree for seven years and afterward in a -narrow cave in a precipice of great height overhanging the lake, to -which there is no access but by a boat. According to tradition he came -here to escape from "Eyes of Most Unholy Blue," worn by a maid named -Kathleen with whom he fell in love in spite of his monastic vows. The -legend says that she traced him out, and when St. Kevin woke from his -sleep one morning he found her sitting beside his bed. He rose and -hurled her into the lake, afterwards whipping himself with nettles as -penance. There are many other legends concerning him, but most of them -are romance. There is no doubt, however, of his piety, and that he -founded the Seven Churches. His feast is celebrated on June 3, the day -on which he died, with great ceremony. - -The Seven Churches are all small and stand in a group around a -cathedral, within sight of each other, except for the foliage. They are -roofless and partially ruined, but of late years the board of public -works has taken possession of them, repaired them, and is keeping them -in order. Several monasteries have been maintained there from time to -time, and a thousand years ago Glendalough was one of the most famous -seats of learning in the world. Scholars and students went there from -all parts of Europe to study. - -The cathedral, which is the center of interest, is probably the smallest -sanctuary of that dignity in existence. The nave is only 48 feet long by -30 feet wide, and the chancel is 25 by 22 feet, but the masonry is -massive. The Church of the Trinity has a chancel only 13 feet 6 inches -long by 9 feet wide and a nave 29 by 17 feet. It contains the tomb of -Mochuarog, son of Brachan, King of Britain, who was a disciple of St. -Kevin and administered the last rites to him when he died. The Church of -St. Savior is 45 by 19 feet; the Church of Our Lady has a nave 32 by 20 -and a chancel 21 by 19; St. Chalaran's has a nave 18 by 15 feet and a -chancel 8 feet 8 inches by 8 feet 4 inches; Reefert Church has a nave 29 -by 18 feet and a chancel 14 by 9 feet. This was the burial place of the -O'Tooles and contains several tombs dating as far back as 1010. What is -called "Kevin's Kitchen" is an oblong oratory, 23 by 15 feet in size. -There is a tower of imposing dimensions, 110 feet high and 52 feet in -circumference, standing in the center of an ancient cemetery and -surrounded by tombstones. There are several fine Celtic crosses of great -age and sanctity before which pilgrims are constantly kneeling, and many -other objects of great interest. - -What was once a beautiful interlaced cross has been half carried away by -vandals in chips as "mementos" from the grave of a "rale oulde Irish -king." One of the tombs has an inscription in Celtic, reading, "The body -of King Mac Thuill, in Jesus Christ, 1010"; another is inscribed, "Pray -for Carbre ma Cahail," but most of the inscriptions are obscure. - -A few miles down to the south of Glendalough, on the other side of the -divide, is the village of Ennisworthy, where the great Grattan lived -between the sessions of the Irish parliament, and where many scenes are -associated with his memory. It was near Ennisworthy or Vinegar Hall that -one of the fiercest battles was fought between the British troops and -the Irish rebels on the 21st of June, 1798. The rebels threw up hurried -earthworks around a ruined windmill and defended them with pikes, -scythes, and other agricultural implements, for those were all the arms -they had. The British assaulted the hill and massacred or captured the -entire force. Five hundred are said to have been killed in the -engagement. - -The little place is called Ferns, is a favorite resort of rich Dublin -people, and has many interesting historical associations. It was the -seat of government of Leinster in early times, and the home of Dermot -MacMurrough, who betrayed Ireland to the Normans. His castle, which -stood upon an eminence overlooking the town, is believed to date back to -the sixth century and was besieged and burned and partially destroyed -several times. Near by is the ruin of an Augustinian monastery, with a -tower seventy-five feet high, which was founded by MacMurrough in 1160, -and in which he is buried. The Protestant Church of Ireland has a -cathedral here and an Episcopal palace built in 1630 by Bishop Ram, then -in charge of the ecclesiastical affairs of this diocese. Being of very -advanced age when he built the house, he placed the following -inscription over the entrance: - - "This house Ram built for his succeeding brothers: - Thus sheep bear wool, not for themselves, but for others." - -We walked from the station at Wexford along a very narrow street to a -deceptive hotel called the White's. It has a dark, narrow, uninviting -entrance, but extends back into the middle of the block like the roots -of a tree, and contains comfortable beds, neat sitting-rooms, and a -dining-room, wherein toothsome, orange-colored salmon just from the -river and most excellent gooseberry tarts are served. - -Wexford is very different from Dublin and every other place in Ireland -that we saw, because of its narrow streets, which are more like those of -a Spanish or oriental town, some of them so narrow that you can almost -shake hands through the windows with your neighbor across the way. And -it is a very clean town. And furthermore, all the children we met looked -as if they were just from a bath. We saw troops of them in the street on -their way to school with "shining morning faces" and neat jackets and -frocks and wearing shoes and stockings, which is a rare sight in -Ireland, therefore a welcome one to see. The contrast in the dress and -general appearance of the people of Wexford and those of Dublin is so -striking as to cause comment. - -In a large plaza in front of the railway station is a monument in honor -of John Edward Redmond, uncle of John and William Redmond, the present -leaders of the Irish party in the British parliament. He represented -this district in the House of Commons for many years and did a great -deal for the town and the neighborhood. He got a breakwater, which makes -the harbor safe, a bridge across the River Slaney, and an appropriation -to construct a macadamized road along its banks. The Redmond family have -lived here for generations and have been prominent in local affairs. -Most of them have been engaged in the leather business and have had -large tanneries. The inscription upon the monument to John Edward -Redmond reads: - - "My heart is with the town of Wexford. Nothing can extinguish that - love but the cold sod of the grave, and when the day comes, I hope - you will pay me the compliment I deserve of saying that I always - loved you." Last words of J.E. Redmond, 1865! - -A deputation of farmers which appeared before Mr. Russell, the secretary -of agriculture, at Dublin, asserted that Wexford is "the most -agricultural county in Ireland." - -There is every appearance of prosperity about Wexford. The people are -well dressed, the cattle are sleek, the horses are the best we have -seen, and we are quite prepared to believe the assertion that this is -the "Garden of Ireland." There is a good deal of commerce at Wexford -also, going out as well as coming in from a fine harbor which is formed -by an estuary from the sea at the entrance to the Irish Channel. There -is a long breakwater to protect the ships against storms; and quays, -three thousand feet long, with double lines of railway track, and modern -machinery for loading and unloading vessels. There are steamship lines -to Liverpool, Bristol, and other markets in that hated and despised -territory called England. Several sailing ships are now tied up at the -dock which bring over coal and take back barley to make the British -beer, for this is the headquarters of the barley trade in Ireland. - -Wexford has been the scene of much political disturbance. The people are -intense in their hatred of England, and every baby in the cradle is a -violent home ruler. Perhaps this unanimous sentiment is in a measure due -to the influence of the Redmond family, which belongs here. - -On the site of an ancient bull ring is a bronze figure of a young man in -a belligerent attitude with a long pike. He is called "The Insurgent" -and the figures "1798" are on the pedestal--nothing more. - -"It's one of the patriots of '98," said the jaunting car driver. "They -are putting up statues like that everywhere in Ireland now, to keep the -events of the past in the memory of the people." - -There is a great deal of significance in that statue, and even more in -the photographs and post cards of it which are hung for sale in the -windows of every stationer and news stand and cigar-shop. Under the -picture is printed in plain letters the words, "Who fears to speak of -'98?" - -What are called "the twin churches" are two fine Roman Catholic houses -of worship, exact duplicates of each other, within two or three blocks, -with beautiful spires two hundred and thirty feet high. They cost -$250,000 each and were paid for by the congregations of this city and -neighborhood. It is astonishing how much money the people of Ireland -spend upon their religion, and the twin churches of Wexford are -illustrations of the display that is found in every part of the -country. It is a common subject of comment and criticism that the -bishops should permit such extravagance, but they reply that no man is -ever poorer because of what he gives for his religion. It may be said, -also, that all of the Roman Catholic churches are crowded on Sunday, -early and late. - -St. Sellskar's Church is built upon the foundation of the Abbey of the -Holy Sepulchre, which was established here a thousand years ago, and -within it was signed the first treaty ever made between the English and -Irish races. This was signed in 1169 by Dermot McMurrough, King of -Leinster, and Richard de Clare, Earl of Pembroke, better known by the -name of Strongbow. And it was in this abbey that Strongbow resided, and -in this church his sister, Bassilia de Clare, was married to Raymond le -Gros in 1174. The Princess Eva, daughter of Dermot McMurrough, King of -Leinster, who married Strongbow on the field of battle, is buried in a -stone coffin at Bannow, in the suburbs of Wexford, down on the coast. It -was formerly a populous and prosperous city, of which no traces can now -be seen except the ruins of the church that contains her tomb. The rest -of the town has been buried under the encroachments of the sea, and sand -now lies ten and twenty feet deep upon the tops of the houses. Until a -few years ago Bannow returned two members of parliament, although for -many generations there was nothing for them to represent except the -ruins of this church and a solitary chimney. However, for the loss of -this franchise the British government paid £15,000 to the late Earl of -Ely, whose seat is in the neighborhood. His ancestor, Rev. Adam Loftus, -was lord high chancellor of Ireland during the reign of Queen Elizabeth. -He was one of the founders of Trinity College and the first provost. The -romantic story of this extinct city is related in a novel entitled, -"Eva, or the Buried City of Bannow," and contains a good deal of -interesting history mixed up with the fiction. - -I suppose that sooner or later the energetic Normans would have found -their way across the St. George's Channel, but their invasion was -invited in 1169 by Dermot McMurrough, King of Leinster, who is thus -responsible for the loss of his country's freedom, and subsequent -centuries of bloodshed and distress. He was a good soldier, but the -Christian influence under which he was educated did not remove all the -savage traits from his system and he was guilty of many wicked, brutal, -treacherous acts of tyranny and violence against his neighbors and his -subjects. He kidnapped the wife of Ternan O'Rourke, King of Leitrim, and -the latter persuaded the other kings in southern Ireland to join with -him to punish the insult. McMurrough was driven from pillar to post and -finally fled to the court of Henry II. in London, where he offered to -betray Ireland to the English monarch. - -The latter declined to give Dermot any personal assistance, but -permitted his vassals to do what they liked, and a number of British and -Welsh barons of broken fortunes, under the leadership of Richard de -Clare, Earl of Pembroke, organized an invasion. In May, 1169, they -landed at Wexford with a force of two thousand well armed Normans, -Englishmen, Welshmen, and renegade Irishmen. Strongbow was given the -leadership of the expedition with a promise of the hand of Dermot's -daughter in marriage and the succession to the throne of Leinster. -Before the invaders landed Dermot returned quietly to his castle at -Ferns, and during the winter of 1168-69 pretended to do penance for his -sins in the Augustinian monastery he had founded there, in order to -throw his Irish enemies off their guard. - -The King of Connaught, Roderick O'Conor, who was the acknowledged -suzerain of all Ireland at that time, collected a large army and marched -against the invaders, and he might easily have crushed them, but he was -a weak and credulous man, without the ability or vigor of Brian Boru, -and Dermot fooled him completely, promising to expel the foreigners -provided he was restored to his kingdom. As soon as Roderick had marched -away, however, and Dermot felt himself strong enough to break his -promises, he led his allies with fire and sword into the city of Dublin -and the English have occupied it ever since. - -Strongbow's wedding with Eva took place Aug. 25, 1170, upon the battle -field near Waterford, among the corpses of the slain. There is a -striking picture of the scene in the National Gallery at Dublin. And the -bridegroom continued his career of massacre and devastation until he -"had made a tremblin' sod of all Ireland." - -Henry II., having heard of the conquest of Strongbow, became nervous for -fear he might become too powerful, and prepared an expedition with which -he landed at the little town of Crook, or at the still smaller town of -Hook, near the mouth of the River Suir. Some said that he landed by Hook -and some said he landed by Crook, and that was the origin of the saying -that is heard to this day, "either by hook or crook." Henry II. had -about ten thousand fighting men and they were so well organized and -armed that resistance was impossible. Almost all the Irish kings and -chieftains came promptly to make submission, and the Irish bishops, -presided over by Lawrence O'Toole, met in synod and acknowledged him as -their sovereign. Their action was based upon a bull issued by Pope -Adrian IV., authorizing Henry II. to take possession of Ireland. Adrian -IV. was an English monk named Brakespear, and he was influenced by an -unfair and exaggerated account of the influence of the Church in England -and by misrepresentations of the state of religion in Ireland. Some -historians have questioned the genuineness of this edict; others have -declared that it was a myth, but there seems to be no reason to doubt -that Adrian IV. did authorize Henry II. to invade Ireland, believing -that a strong centralized government there would be for the advancement -of religion and for the good of the people. - -Troubles with the Holy See resulting from the assassination of Thomas à -Becket called the king back to England before he had completed his plans -of settlement, and he left Ireland in April, 1172, after remaining there -less than six months. He had intended to erect a string of Norman -castles at frequent intervals throughout the island and garrison them -with English troops in order to overawe the native kings and -chieftains, and so that his own earls might watch and check each other. -But he left that work to his subordinates and rewarded them with grants -of enormous area without regard to the rights of the native owners. -Leinster was given to Strongbow with the exception of Dublin and two or -three other towns on the coast; the province of Meath was given to Hugh -de Lacy, and the province of Ulster to John de Courcy, and other tracts -to the ancestors of many of the noble families of Ireland to-day. - -Under Strongbow, after Henry II. left, Ireland fell into a state of -anarchy and confusion. He was tyrannical and unreasonable. The native -princes rebelled and almost overcame him. They drove him to Waterford -and besieged him there, where he was rescued by Raymond le Gros, who -demanded the hand of his sister Bassilia as his reward. They were -married here, as I have told you, in the Abbey of the Holy Sepulchre. - -Strongbow took up his headquarters at Dublin. He built Christ Church -Cathedral and other churches and endowed several large religious -establishments, although he had shown very little veneration for the -relics of St. Patrick and other Irish saints. In 1176 he died of a -malignant ulcer in his foot, which his enemies ascribed to a miracle of -the Irish saints whose shrines he had desecrated. His sister Bassilia, -who was a woman of strong character, concealed the fact of his death -until she could communicate with her husband, Raymond le Gros, who was -besieging an Irish king at Limerick, and prepare him to take advantage -of the situation. As a letter might be captured and read, she sent him a -courier with the message: - -"The Great Jaw Tooth, which used to trouble us so much, has fallen -out--wherefore return with all speed." - -Raymond understood the meaning and returned to Dublin, took charge of -the government and buried Strongbow with great pomp in Christ Church -Cathedral, which he had founded, the famous Lawrence O'Toole, Archbishop -of Ireland, conducting the ceremonies. But King Henry had had enough of -the Strongbow family, and when he heard of the great earl's death -appointed William de Burgo, founder of the Burke family, as viceroy. - -Raymond le Gros, with Bassilia, retired to their castle in Wexford, -where he resided quietly until his death in 1182. - -And that is the way the English obtained possession of Ireland. - - - - - XXI - - THE LAND OF RUINED CASTLES - - -Waterford is a busy, clean, dignified old town with large shipping -interests, which are conducted upon a wide quay that follows the bank of -the River Suir and is faced with substantial walls of stone. The cargoes -of the vessels are loaded and unloaded from the roadside. The commercial -business consists of the export of bacon, which is famous, barley, and -other agricultural produce. A good many live cattle are sent over the -channel to feed the enemies of Ireland. The stores and shops are upon -streets that run at right angles with the river. The professional men -occupy blocks of former residences in the neighborhood of an ancient -courthouse which faces a park, usually filled with babies and blue-eyed -children playing on the grass. Back in the city the ground rises from -the river to a hill that was once crowned with a castle, a cathedral, a -monastery, and several other institutions of warfare, charity, learning, -and religion. A "Home for the Widows of Deceased Clergymen of the Church -of Ireland" occupies the site of the palace of King John. When I dropped -a penny in the lap of an old crone, who squatted at the gate, she looked -up at me with the winning smile of her race and said: - -"May you have a happy life, sor, and a paceful death and a favorable -joodgment." - -There are few beggars in the Irish cities to-day, such as you read about -in the tales of travelers who were here twenty or even ten years ago. -There are two or three in Dublin hanging around the entrance of the -hotel, usually with flowers for sale or something else to offer as -compensation for your money, and when one goes into the slums he is apt -to be approached by drunken men and drunken women. But outside of -Dublin we didn't see a single beggar. - -Besides being famous for the best bacon in the United Kingdom, Waterford -is the ancestral home of Field Marshal Lord Roberts and that intrepid -sailor, Lord Charles Beresford, who was annexed to the United States at -a Gridiron dinner during a visit to Washington several years ago. It has -a population of about thirty thousand, was founded by the Danish King -Sigtryg of the Silken Beard, and for centuries was the seat of the -McIvors, the Danish kings, who arrived in 870 and ruled until Strongbow -and the other Norman adventurers came over from England in 1169. At the -principal corner in the town are the remains of a castle built by -Reginald McIvor in 1003, and it still bears his name. The city has -endured many sieges and attacks. At one time it was almost entirely -destroyed. For centuries it was the most important city in Ireland after -Dublin, and is now the fourth seaport. It was loyal to the king when the -pretender Perkin Warbeck claimed the throne of England, and Cromwell was -unable to reduce it even after a long siege. It was the only city in -Ireland that Old Ironsides did not conquer, and thereby it earned its -motto, "Urbs Intacta." Beside Reginald's Tower very few of the ancient -walls remain, but there are two old churches of great interest. One of -them, the Protestant Cathedral, stands upon the site of a church built -in 1050 and the bishop's palace and deanery adjoin it. The present -structure was erected in 1774 by John Roberts, architect, the -great-grandfather of "Bobs," the hero of Kandahar, now Earl Roberts of -the British peerage. He was the architect of several other important -buildings in the city. - -In 1693 a colony of refugee Huguenots came to Waterford from France. -They were kindly received and the bishop gave them the choir of an -ancient monastic church as a place of worship. It became known as "the -French Church" for that reason. Among the immigrants was a family named -Sautelles, whose daughter married John Roberts, a rising young -architect, in 1744. They had twenty-four children, and both are buried -within the roofless walls of the chancel of the old church. One of the -sons, Rev. John Roberts, rector of St. Nicholas' parish, married the -daughter of his associate, Rev. Abraham Sandys. Sir Abraham Roberts, -their son, married Miss Sleigh, the daughter of a family prominent among -the gentry of the neighborhood, and died in 1874, leaving issue -Frederick Sleigh Roberts, the present earl, who spent his happy boyhood -in an old manor-house in the suburbs of the city. - -All of the Roberts family for several generations have been buried -within the walls of the old French Church, and it is still used for the -tombs of the passing generation of a few old families who possess that -enviable privilege. The latest monument bears the date of 1881, and -"siveral places are bespoke," the custodian told me. The ruin is kept -with the greatest care. The ivy mantle that covers the walls is tenderly -trimmed each spring and fall, the turf is cut frequently, the gravel -walks are raked every day, and when I remarked upon this peculiarity not -often observed in the crumbling castles and churches of long ago, the -custodian exclaimed with pride: - -"It's all thrue, as yer honor has said, ivery wurrd of it, an' it's as -dacent a ruin as you'll find in all Ireland." - -Several illustrious characters in Irish history are buried in the -cathedral. Among them are Strongbow and his son who was carved in twain -by his amiable father on the field of battle because he acted as if he -was afraid of the enemy. It is entirely appropriate that so energetic -and comprehensive a person as the first Earl of Pembroke should have two -tombs, and no one has any right to complain. He is buried in Christ -Church Cathedral in Dublin, as well as in the cathedral at Waterford, -and lies quietly in both places. And only a few days ago I noticed that -Edward VII., King of England, was paying a week's-end visit to his -descendant, the present Earl of Pembroke, at his country seat, Wilton -House, in Wiltshire. - -Everything in Waterford seems to be inclosed by high stone walls--even -the bishop's palace and the poorhouse--and when I asked a man I met on -the street why it was so, he answered: - -"They're old walls, sir, very old, and were put up when they were -needed. They're not taken down, for they may be needed again. The poor -guardians are afraid they'll lose a pauper, and the bishop some of his -prayers." - -The jarvey who drove our jaunting car told us that there are nine -hundred people in the poorhouse and nine hundred more in the insane -asylum, the latter "bein' mostly women who came there from drinkin' too -much tay"--and the excessive use of that herb is destroying the nerves -of the feminine population. - -I have often been told to "Go to Ballyhack," and many a time I have -heard people wish that somebody they were offended at might go there, -but I never had an opportunity to do so until I reached Waterford. -Ballyhack is quite an attractive place, a pretty little fishing village -of about one hundred people on the bank of the River Suir, eight miles -south of the city and nine miles from the sea. It is not considered -profane to condemn a person to Ballyhack any more than to Halifax, -although you may have a warmer place in your mind. It is a delightful -excursion from Waterford in a jaunting car, through fertile farms and -velvety meadows, to the town of Passage, whence a boatman will take you -across the river to Ballyhack, which is a group of stone buildings, -fish-packing houses, and tenements of the fishermen, with a tall, -picturesque old tower rising from their midst by the roadside. The top -is crumbling, the stones are loose, but the walls for sixty feet or more -from the ground are yet perfectly solid and quite as firm as they were -when they were erected by the Knights Templar a thousand years ago to -defend one of the most convenient landing places on the river. - -It is believed that the tower of Ballyhack was intended as an outpost -for the protection of these two monasteries against pirates and other -marauders and that the monks stored their arms and munitions there and a -supply of provisions. There is no dock. The fishboats are hauled up on -the gravel beach and their cargoes are carried across a narrow roadway -in big baskets to the packing-houses, where they are cleaned and salted -or shipped fresh to London and Liverpool. - -Curragmore, the seat of the famous Beresford family, is twelve miles in -the opposite direction from Waterford, over hill and down dale, and -through a most delightful country. It is an ancient place, for the -Beresfords are a very old family, descended from Sir Robert la Poer, who -landed with Prince John at Waterford in 1185 and was given a vast tract -of land that had belonged to an Irish earl who refused to submit to the -sovereignty of the Norman king. That was the fashion in those days when -people were not so particular about the rights of others as at present. -In this highly moral and righteous generation there's a court sitting -regularly to hear any complaints that a tenant may wish to make -concerning the rent exacted for his farm or his cottage. A difference of -opinion over a bed of turnips or a rabbit or "any other kind of bird" is -argued one side and then the other by the lawyers, and many people are -questioned to ascertain who is wrong and who is right. But at the date -when the first Beresford arrived at Waterford from over the channel, his -majesty the king decided the ownership of the territory in Ireland -according to his whims. A frown could cost a man a farm and a smile -could win him one. But life has not been all sunshine and taffy for the -Beresfords. They have had their troubles like the rest of us. In 1310 -the wife of John la Poer was burned as a witch--one of the grandmothers -of that much beloved and hearty old sailor, admiral of the North -Atlantic fleet of Great Britain, who visited us only a few years ago and -made so many friends among the people of America. - -The motto of the Beresford family is not exactly what one would expect, -knowing the character and disposition and habits of the men. It is: "Nil -Nisi Cruce" (No Dependence but the Cross). I suppose it is all right for -Lord Charles Beresford, the "Fighting Bob" Evans of the British navy, to -wear those words upon his crest, but his words and his acts do not -always conform to such a pious phrase. The people round here are very -proud of him and of Earl Roberts also--"Both fighters from their very -cradles," as a gentleman said. - -"And there was Bill Beresford," he continued, "a gallant soldier and the -best horseman in Ireland--good, old 'Ulundi Bill,' as he was fondly -known. There isn't a man between the four seas to-day that can compare -with him, either for a fight or a frolic. Bill Beresford overtopped them -all. He did more to improve and encourage horse racing in Ireland than -any man that ever lived except it was his father, Lord Henry Beresford, -the third Marquis of Waterford. They called him the Nestor of the Irish -turf, and he did deeds of daring and devilment in every corner of the -world. His lordship was killed in the saddle, the place where he would -prefer to die, for he loved horses as much as men, and there was -mourning in all Ireland. His son Bill took closely after him. As colonel -of the Ninth Lancers, Bill saved the British forces at the battle of -Ulundi and was given a big jeweled star and a Victoria Cross for the -job. But Charley is just as good a man as Bill. The Beresfords are all -fighters. No family in Ireland has drawn the sword so often or so -effectively, even if you go back to the invasion of the Normans when -they first came into the country. And what's the matter with the motto, -'No dependence but the cross'?" - -Lord "Bill" Beresford was laid to rest on the first day of the twentieth -century and his obituaries said that he was the most popular man in -Ireland. He was the third husband of that beautiful American woman, -Lillian Warren-Hammersley-Churchill-Beresford, originally of Troy, N.Y., -and afterward of Washington, widow of the late Duke of Marlborough and -still one of the most charming women in London society. There was -another brother, who recently died in Mexico, where he lived for many -years as a ranchman, and left a large family of half-breed children. - -The present Marquis of Waterford, Henri de la Poer Beresford, was born -in 1875 and married Lady Beatrice, daughter of the Marquis of Lansdowne, -in 1897. He is a lieutenant in the Horse Guards at London, is said to be -a fine young fellow, and is developing the hereditary traits of the -family. He has a son--the Earl of Tyrone, born in 1901--and three -daughters who are younger. - -Carrick Castle, which stands on the banks of the Suir not far from -Waterford, is another beautiful place, built in 1309 by the great Earl -of Ormonde. The Carricks were originally Butlers, and trace their -descent as far back as Rollo, Duke of Normandy, grandfather of William -the Conqueror. Edmund Butler was created Earl of Carrick in 1315, and -his descendants have owned this estate ever since his time. The -beautiful but unfortunate Anne Boleyn, wife of Henry VIII. and mother of -Queen Elizabeth, was born in Carrick Castle and lived there until she -was fifteen years old, when she went to England with Sir Thomas Boleyn, -her father, and Lord Rochford, her brother, who was executed upon the -same scaffold with herself. - -The Province of Munster might be called properly "the Land of Ruined -Castles," for they are more numerous here than on the banks of the -Rhine. You are scarcely ever out of sight of a crumbling tower or a -useless gigantic wall wearing a mantle of ivy. Nearly all of these ruins -are attributed to Cromwell and his army, who have no defenders, and the -religious historians and local guides tell us that they were destroyed -by that man of mighty prejudices and purposes in order to plant -Protestantism upon the ruins of the papal power in Ireland. Cromwell was -undoubtedly guilty of atrocious cruelty and devastation at the cost of -thousands of innocent lives and hundreds of millions of property, but he -could not have destroyed all these castles and monasteries if he had -remained in Ireland ten times as long as he did, because many of them -were in ruins when he arrived and many were not built until after his -departure. - -Torna, the Druid, prophesied that a wind from the southeast would fell -the tree that covered Ireland. And that was always a vulnerable shore. -Agricola planned to cross with his legions from the Cornish coast and -add Eire, as this country was then known, to the Roman Empire. The -southeastern corner, the counties of Wexford and Waterford, with their -harbors open and undefended, were the gates through which many foreign -invaders came and brought death and devastation with them. The harbor of -Waterford was called the Haven of the Sun until the Danes came, but was -afterward known as the Valley of Lamentation, because of the mourning -that followed the battles that were fought there. And even the invaders -did not do so much damage as domestic strife. The kings and the clans, -the Desmonds and the Geraldines, the O'Briens and the O'Donoghues, the -MacCarthys, the O'Connors, the O'Sullivans, and other local chiefs who -occupied the southern third of Ireland, were always attacking each -other, besieging the castles of their rivals and often leaving them as -we see them now--green wrecks and grassy mounds. And they spared not the -monasteries that were built near all the homes of the great. This was a -form of munificence as well as piety which prevailed also in Italy and -France in the Middle Ages, where every robber baron kept a small army of -friars and monks to do his praying, just as he kept squadrons of knights -to do his fighting. Hence you will invariably find in southern Ireland -the ruins of an abbey or a monastery beside the ruins of a castle, and -most of them are the result of duels and feuds between the native -chieftains and their clans, although many were left in flames and gore -by the forces of William of Orange, Henry VIII., and Queen Elizabeth, as -well as Cromwell. - -[Illustration: THE RIVER FRONT AT WATERFORD] - -Ireland has never been at peace until now. No soil has been fought over -so often. The mysterious round towers that we see on the hilltops and in -the glens in their lonely majesty are evidence that it was necessary for -the overlords to build places of refuge for their servants, and provide -means for lighting signal fires to warn them against the enemies that -surrounded them. - - "In the Island o' Ruins remembrance o' grief - Hallows the hills as, when summer is slowly - Fadin' in darkness, the fall o' the leaf - Makes the woods holy. - - "Green are the woods though the mountains are gray; - Spring is too young to remember old doin's. - Ah! but I wish I was roamin' to-day - In the Island o' Ruins!" - -The little station of Doneraile is the getting-off place for visitors -who would see one of the most attractive ruins in Ireland, both for its -picturesque beauty and for its historical associations. A solitary -tower, standing by a small river in a lonely and deserted glen, is all -that remains of Kilcolman Castle, one of the greatest strongholds of the -Geraldines, afterward and at the time of its destruction the home of -Ireland's greatest poet, Edmund Spenser. He came here in 1580 as private -secretary to Earl Grey, then lord lieutenant, and after one of the many -rebellions he was given a little more than three thousand acres which -surrounded this castle, confiscated from the Earl of Desmond, as one of -the "undertakers," as certain speculators and adventurers were called -who agreed to colonize the country with English settlers. It was here -and in the neighboring town of Youghal, the home of Sir Walter Raleigh, -in 1589 and 1590, that Spenser wrote the "Faerie Queene," which was -published at the expense of Raleigh and dedicated to Queen Elizabeth. -For this honor the queen proposed to give him quite a liberal pension. -Lord Treasurer Burleigh remonstrated, saying: - -"What? So much for a rhyme?" - -"Well, then, give him what is reason," said her majesty. - -Nothing further was heard of the matter, however, until Spenser sent the -Virgin Queen the following epigram: - - "I was promised on a time - To have reason for my rhyme. - From that time, until this season, - I've had neither rhyme nor reason." - -Elizabeth was so pleased that she instantly ordered Spenser's name to be -put upon the pension rolls at fifty pounds a year. - -Spenser married an obscure relative of the famous Earl of Cork, a Miss -Boyle, and lived in the old castle until 1598, when it was sacked and -burned by the rebels in the Tyrone uprising. His youngest son perished -in the flames and, heart-broken and beggared, he took the rest of his -family to London and died within a few months from starvation and grief. -He was buried in Westminster Abbey at the expense of the Earl of Essex. - -It is said that the sins of the fathers are sometimes visited upon their -children and children's children, and this prophecy applies with -singular aptness to the Spenser family, for the poet's grandson was -driven from his home at Kilcolman by Cromwell's men, just as the -Desmonds had been driven from the same place by Earl Grey. - -It was a cheerful change to find a castle without a scar or a crumbling -stone and all the modern improvements at Riding House, the Irish estate -of the late Earl of Devonshire. He was one of the wealthiest, the -ablest, and the most influential of the British nobility, and a -conservative leader in the House of Lords, and died, universally -lamented, a year or so ago. He was one of the largest landowners in -Ireland, having more than a hundred thousand acres rented to tenants, -and managed to get along with them without much friction, which is the -highest proof that he was a just, honorable, tactful, and conscientious -man. There are good landlords in Ireland; there are many of them, and it -is not true in every instance that the tenants show little or no -appreciation of their generosity, although, unfortunately, there have -been some conspicuous cases of that kind. Several large property owners, -who have endeavored to treat their tenants with kindness, have lowered -their rents and made generous concessions to them, have been accused of -cowardice by the very people they tried to please, and have been treated -very badly. But the Duke of Devonshire was not one of those. He had -honest, brave, fair-minded agents on the ground and looked closely -after the management of his Irish property himself. - -[Illustration: LISMORE CASTLE, WATERFORD COUNTY; IRISH SEAT OF THE DUKE -OF DEVONSHIRE] - -Riding House is near the town of Lismore, and, on the principle that to -him who hath shall be given, it was inherited by the Duke of Devonshire -in 1753 through his wife, Charlotte, daughter of Richard Boyle, fourth -Earl of Cork, who was a munificent patron of literature and the arts and -the friend of Pope, the poet. The Cork family is one of the most famous -in the history of Ireland, although not one of the oldest. The first -earl lived on Cork Hill, where the Castle at Dublin stands. He was a -native of Hereford County, England, and was born in 1566. He studied law -at the Middle Temple, London, and was called to the Bar, but, having no -clients, he embarked for Ireland as an adventurer. After a while he -obtained the favor and protection of Queen Elizabeth, which enabled him -to amass considerable wealth and won him his title. His brother Michael, -who went to Ireland with him, became Bishop of Waterford. Richard, a -nephew, became Archbishop of Tuam, and his son, Michael, became -Archbishop of Armagh. - -The second Earl of Cork was a distinguished figure in camp, court, and -in the literary world. He was lord lieutenant of Ireland under Cromwell. -He was known as "the great Earl of Cork," and lies in the old Church of -St. Mary at Youghal with his figure at full length in marble in the -center of an enormous monument that covers a quarter of an acre of wall. -There is a duplicate quite as large in St. Patrick's Cathedral in -Dublin. - -The present Earl of Cork was the largest landholder in this section -except the Duke of Devonshire, but has sold most of his estate under the -provisions of the Wyndham Land Act of 1903. The Devonshire estate is -still intact, and, as the late duke had no sons, was inherited by Victor -Cavendish, his nephew. The late Earl, Richard Edmund St. Lawrence Boyle, -was an aid-de-camp to Queen Victoria, with whom he had a warm -friendship. He was devoted to her all his life and was her master of -horse and master of buckhounds for many years. He married in 1853 a -sister of the present Earl of Clanricarde, who is fighting the Wyndham -Land Act so bitterly. His eldest son and heir, late the Viscount -Dungarvin, was born in 1861, served in the army for several years, and -commanded the Twenty-second Battalion of Yeomanry against the Boers in -South Africa. The second son of the late earl, Robert John Lascelle, -born in 1864, married Josephine Hale, daughter of J.P. Hale of San -Francisco, and the son of this American girl is the heir presumptive of -the great Cork estate. One sister of the present earl married Francis -Henry Baring of the famous London banking house, and another married -Walter Long, one of the leaders of the unionist party in parliament. He -represents a district of the city of Dublin, although he is an -Englishman and never lived there. - -"Tipperary is the deadest town in all Ireland," said a bookseller of -that place, of whom we were buying some postcards. "I don't believe -there was ever a deader town than Tip-rar-ry [for that is the way they -pronounce it] and everybody is going to America who can get away." And -that seemed to be the prevailing sentiment among the people I talked -with. It is the most pessimistic community I found in the country, -without even a single good word for their own town. "There's no business -outside of cattle and dairying," said another merchant. "Trade is so -dull that the shopkeepers are loafing half the day." But the people seem -to keep up their interest in politics, and that they have some money -left is evident, because at a meeting here, the day before my arrival, -£95 was collected in a few minutes for the expense fund of the -parliamentary Irish party. Outside, in the streets, there was a good -deal of activity. It was market day and the farmers from all the -surrounding country were in town to sell their produce and buy a stock -of supplies for the ensuing week, but there was no vehicle, not even a -jaunting car, at the railway station to take us to the hotel, and -evidently nobody was expected. So we had to do the best we could and -succeeded in persuading a farmer who was there with an "inside car" to -carry us and our luggage, which he managed to do by sitting on the -shafts himself. And afterward when we wanted to see the town we -couldn't find a vehicle in the street, although Tipperary is a town of -six thousand population, and the hotel proprietor sent out to a livery -stable for one. - -Tipperary lies in the midst of a lovely country, more level than that we -had been traveling through for the past three weeks, but there are only -a few patches of timber and a few gentle slopes and no peat bogs so far -as we could see from the railway train. The landscape reminded me of the -Western Reserve of Ohio, with the exception that the Silievenarmick -Hills rise in the background to the height of nine hundred and one -thousand feet. The Aherlow River waters the plain and runs through the -town. There doesn't seem to be much cultivated ground in the -neighborhood, but there are long stretches of meadow in which the -farmers were cutting the hay, and we can perceive the perfume as we pass -through them if we stand at the open window of the car. Alternating with -the meadows are fine pastures, where large herds of sleek and fat cattle -and many yearling colts and foal mares are feeding. There are several -large stock farms in the neighborhood, and, as it was the season for -county fairs when we were there, the Tipperary farmers are raking in -prizes for all kinds of stock. In the town is a creamery which, we were -told, is the largest in Ireland. It employs one hundred and twenty hands -and its butter is shipped almost entirely to London. - -The most interesting feature of Tipperary is the new town lying on the -outskirts of the old, which represents an exciting incident in Irish -history. During the land war of 1887 the leaders of the Irish party -selected several landlords as examples for boycotting for the purpose of -attracting attention to the conditions in the country and creating -public opinion. This was called "The Plan of Campaign." Among the places -selected as storm centers were the Ponsonby estate near Cork, the -Vandaleur estate in County Clare, the Defrayne estate in Roscommon, the -Massaure estate in County Louth, and the Smith Barry estate in -Tipperary. These estates were selected as battle grounds because the -landlords were treating the tenants badly, were very exacting and -oppressive, and furnished excellent examples to illustrate the evils of -the Irish land and tenantry system. Some of the tenants were behind in -their rents and, being unable to pay, were threatened with eviction -unless they settled on or before a certain date. - -Arthur Hugh Smith Barry, the landlord who was selected as an awful -example at Tipperary, is descended from the Earl of Barrymore, whose -title expired when the direct male line became extinct forty or fifty -years ago. He came into possession by inheritance of a large tract of -land near Cork and another tract covering between eight and nine -thousand acres in this vicinity, which paid him an annual revenue of -£7,368. His first wife was a sister of the present Lord Dunraven. His -second and present wife was Elizabeth Wadsworth Post, a sister of former -Congressman James Wadsworth of Geneseo, N.Y., and was the widow of a Mr. -Post at the time of her marriage with Mr. Barry in 1889. They have a -beautiful home at Fota on Fota Island, in Cork Harbor, near Queenstown, -and a town residence in Berkeley Square, London. Mr. Barry has been a -member of parliament and has served the government in different -capacities with great credit to himself and usefulness to his country. -For that reason the old title of his family was revived in 1902 and he -was elevated to the peerage as Lord Barrymore. - -The courage and determination he exhibited during the fight that was -made upon him by the Land League was one of the reasons for giving him -the honor. The boycott was managed on behalf of the Land League by -William O'Brien, then, as now, member of parliament for that district. -Under the latter's direction between five and six hundred tenants of Mr. -Barry stopped paying rent. Some were actually too poor to do so; others -were perfectly able, but they all went in together and made a common -cause and boycotted their landlord, who promptly took steps to evict -them. Mr. O'Brien and other leaders of the Land League appealed to -patriotic Irishmen all over the world and raised between £40,000 and -£50,000--nearly $250,000--in America, Australia, Ireland, and -elsewhere, with which they started to build a new town upon land -belonging to Stafford O'Brien, who, by the way, is no relation of the -member of parliament of the same name. Several blocks of tenement-houses -were built of substantial materials and attractive appearance, and are -models in their way. But when Mr. Barry got the machinery of the law in -motion and wholesale evictions commenced, the managers put up cheap -barracks of wood as rapidly as possible to accommodate those who were -turned out of their homes. - -There was a general and generous response to the appeal to the -patriotism of Ireland, and people in this country who had no money gave -material and labor to help the cause. Carpenters and stone masons, -bricklayers, and other mechanics came to Tipperary from all parts of -Ireland to work on the buildings, without wages, and within a short time -all of the evicted tenants of the Barry estate were comfortably housed, -free of rent, while his revenues ceased entirely and the boycott was -complete. It was a significant illustration of the unity of purpose of -the common people of Ireland; but, unfortunately, the leaders of the -party quarreled before the demonstration was complete. The death of -Charles S. Parnell in 1891, about eighteen months after the boycott was -undertaken on the Barry estate, caused a split in the Irish party which -continued until a few years ago. The effect of this division was to -demoralize their followers at Tipperary, and the tenants of the Barry -estate began gradually to slip back to their old homes and resume paying -their rents. The houses at New Tipperary which were built at that time -now belong very largely to Stafford O'Brien, who furnished the land upon -which they were built. Others are still the property of the Land League, -and the rent, which is collected by a committee, goes into the -parliamentary fund. - -Many people at Tipperary now declare that the "kick-up," as they call -the quarrel between the leaders of the Land League, ruined the town, -because it broke the boycott and compelled the tenants to surrender to -the landlords, who have had them under their heels ever since. Several -people told me that the "kick-up" ruined the butter business, but I -could not get anyone to explain why. At any rate, Tipperary lost a great -deal of its prosperity as well as its commercial importance immediately -after that trouble, especially because it was followed by a large exodus -to the United States. As many of the Barry tenants as could raise the -money emigrated when the support of the Land League was withdrawn from -them. They refused to stay and surrender to the landlords. All the young -people in the county caught the emigration fever and left for the United -States as fast as they could get money enough to buy steamship tickets. -I was told that several of them had come back, bringing a good deal of -money with them, and had bought farms in the neighborhood, but they soon -became discontented. The experience of a few years in the United States -unfits people for the primitive methods and the monotony of life in -Ireland; and the eagerness of everybody to get to the United States is -very significant. The jaunting car drivers, the hotel porters, the -dining-room waiters, the chambermaids at the hotels, and everybody of -the working class that a traveler comes in contact with, always ask -questions about the expense of the journey, the probabilities of -securing employment in the United States, and express their -determination to emigrate as soon as they can. - -Tipperary also claims the authorship of that ancient and beautiful old -air, "The Wearing of the Green." It is one of the oldest of Irish -melodies, but only modern words are sung to it now, and there are -several versions. That which Henry Grattan Curran, who is an excellent -authority, claims to be the original, was written at Tipperary and runs -as follows: - - "I met with Napper Tandy, - And he took me by the hand, - Saying how is old Ireland? - And how does she stand? - She's the most distressful country - That ever yet was seen, - And they're hanging men and women - For the wearing of the green. - - "I care not for the thistle, - I care not for the rose, - When bleak winds round us whistle - Neither down nor crimson shows; - But, like hope to him that's friendless, - When no joy around is seen, - O'er our graves with love that's endless - Blooms our own immortal green." - -The late Dion Boucicault used to sing another version in one of his -plays, which he said was made over from a street ballad that he once -heard in Dublin. He was not able to get all of the words and filled in -what was lacking himself, as follows: - - "Oh, Paddy, dear, an' did ye hear the news that's goin' round? - The Shamrock is by law forbid to grow on Irish ground: - No more St. Pathrick's Day we'll keep, his color can't be seen, - For there's a bloody law agin' the wearing of the green. - I met with Napper Tandy and he tuk me by the hand - And he said, 'How's poor ould Ireland and how does she stand? - She's the most disthressful counthry ever yet was seen, - For they're hangin' men and women there for wearing of the green.' - - "Oh, if the color we must wear is England's cruel red, - Let it remind us of the blood that Ireland has shed. - Then pull the shamrock from your hat and throw it on the sod, - Ah, never fear, 'twill take root there, though under foot 'tis trod. - When the laws can stop the blades of grass from growin' as they grow. - And when the leaves in summer time their color dare not show, - Then I will change the color, too, that I wear in my caubeen; - But till that day, plaze God, I'll stick to wearing of the green." - -The Earl of Lismore is the Lord of Tipperary, and the head of the -O'Callaghan family, who were formerly kings of Munster and are descended -from a famous Milesian prince. The various generations have taken an -active part in the affairs of Ireland since history began. They have -been bishops, statesmen, lawyers, soldiers, sailors, and priests; they -have married the daughters of the most prominent houses in the kingdom -and their sisters have been the wives and mothers of dukes. They live at -Clogheen, in the famous Sharbally Castle, and occupy land which has been -in the family for many centuries. - - - - - XXII - - THE IRISH HORSE AND HIS OWNER - - -We attended the races at Leopardstown, about forty minutes south of -Dublin by rail toward the picturesque Wicklow hills. The gate is at the -railway station and the embankment upon which it stands gives an -opportunity to see the entire panorama, and a beautiful one it is. One -could not easily imagine a more peaceful, yet picturesque landscape, the -race course being in the center of an amphitheater surrounded by wooded -hills of lustrous green. I have said several times and will be apt to -keep on saying--for it is the most interesting and the truest thing in -Ireland--that the fields are greener and the foliage has a deeper tint -than anywhere else I have been. And although it rains half the time and -showers are more plentiful than sunshine, they make the grass and the -leaves and the flowers more beautiful and rich in color and give old -Mother Earth a brighter robe. - -The horses run on the turf, and there is no such thing as a trotting -race. All of the entries are from breeding farms, not from sporting -stables. The winner cares more for the cup than the money, for he enters -his horses to increase the reputation of his stud rather than the size -of his purse. There is a great deal of betting, both by owners and by -the general public, but that is a secondary consideration. The chief end -of a race is glory, and not gain. - -The course at Leopardstown is a perfect oval; the track runs between -hedges instead of rails and is shaven like a lawn, but the grass is -quite long in the infield, and cattle and sheep are grazing in bunches -here and there. At one end is a group of vine-clad buildings, covered -with red tiles, almost entirely hidden by overhanging boughs. A large -stone house which used to be occupied by the farmer who owned this -place is now the home of the caretaker, who sets a table for the -trainers and the jockeys, and they sleep in the stables with their -horses. I don't know exactly where or how they make their beds; perhaps -they lie on the straw in the mangers, but it is the practice over here, -and a groom seldom leaves his horse. There is little trickery on the -Irish race course, because it is patronized by men of the highest social -standing and integrity. They not only frown upon all forms of sharp -practice, but there is no penalty too severe for a man that cheats or a -jockey or a groom that violates the regulations. You read in novels of -English and Irish life about horses being dosed with "knockout drops" -and various other disreputable proceedings to make the situations more -dramatic and startling, but it is asserted that there hasn't been a -scandal of any consequence upon the Irish turf for the last ten years. -As one enthusiastic horseman expressed himself, "It's run as honestly as -the church, and more so than the government." - -The admission to the grounds is a shilling for all comers, but after the -spectators enter they are classified according to the dimensions of -their purses. Anybody can get a seat upon the bleachers for another -shilling, and the larger part of the crowd go that way, because the -grand stand prices are almost prohibitive to the working classes, being -$1.50 for ladies and $2.50 for gentlemen. The grand stand is small and -is not patronized by many people because the cheaper seats attract the -crowd and the members' pavilion and clubhouse on the other side are open -to all subscribers to the Jockey Club. As the privilege of membership -can be had for a couple of guineas, nearly every gentleman of affairs -who ever attends the races subscribes and that gives him admission to -all the meetings and the privileges of the clubhouse. There were many -carriages, motor cars, jaunting cars, and saddle horses in the infield, -because the course is within driving distance from Dublin, and those who -can prefer to come down that way. Under the grand stand is a restaurant, -a tea-room, and a bar, all small and cozy and well kept, and the -attendants are women,--cashiers, barmaids, waitresses, and cigar -venders,--dressed in pretty liveries. The accommodations at the -clubhouse are quite attractive as well as convenient, although they are -closed to strangers like the ordinary clubs of the English and Irish -cities. A member may invite a friend to luncheon or dinner, but he -cannot put him up at a club in England and Ireland as we do in the -United States. They are very selfish about such privileges. - -Behind the grand stand and the clubhouse is a large shaded inclosure -accessible to the occupants of both, where the horses are brought before -the races and the jockeys are weighed. The horses are brought there -after the races also and the people stand in large circles around them -to see them rubbed down. The paddock looks more like a garden party than -a stable yard, for it is filled with ladies and gentlemen chatting -gayly, promenading, and sometimes drinking tea, eating ices, or taking -other refreshments on the benches, under the trees between races, or -standing at the scales discussing the horses and talking to their -owners. You have read descriptions of such scenes in society novels, no -doubt, for many authors introduce the races as a feature. Here and there -you can see a party with their lunch spread on a white cloth that covers -the grass, and I have no doubt a good deal of flirting is going on, -although it is more interesting to watch the horses and the crowd. - -There are many queer-looking people to be seen, in the oddest sort of -clothes, from cap to boots. You cannot tell the rank of a person by -looks, however. I have seen duchesses whose dresses didn't fit them at -all, and countesses whose faces are so plain that they would stop a -clock. I worshiped beside the wife of a "belted earl" at St. Patrick's -Cathedral one Sunday, and her hat looked very much as if some one had -sat upon it just before she started for church. The late Duke of -Westminster, who was the richest man in the British Empire, had also the -reputation of being the most slovenly. Dukes often look as if they were -wearing "hand-me-downs," and the smartest-looking man in an assembly may -be the worst rascal of the humblest rank. And that rule, I was told, -applies to the race track as well as to other gatherings of mankind. - -I saw people who looked as if they had stepped out of the pages of -Dickens or Thackeray, so old-fashioned were their garments, their hats, -and their behavior. There were tall, gaunt farmers with fiery red faces; -solid-looking burghers wearing silk hats and fringes of whiskers under -their chins; jaunty military men, dashing young sports in riding habits, -and hundreds of farmers in tweed and heavy woolen knickerbockers, nearly -every one of them smoking a pipe. The stature of the men was noticeable. -There are giants in Ireland in these days. Many of the women were very -pretty and wore bright-colored gowns and sunshades that enlivened the -scene. And several hideous old dowagers were very keen on betting, and -pushed rudely to the front when the horses were running. You can always -recognize a coachman, a groom, or a jockey in England or Ireland, and -they were so numerous that they didn't interest us. - -The races were conducted very much like ours at home, and in the last -one, as is usually the case, the horses were ridden by their owners. -There was a field of sixteen, which caused confusion and delay at the -starting post and a helter-skelter scramble along the track. Some of the -gentlemen riders didn't come in at all, others were distanced, and the -winners were greeted with tremendous applause by their friends and -acquaintances, although very little enthusiasm was shown over the -ordinary races. In no case did the winner receive a demonstration such -as we consider essential in the United States. - -Mr. Richard Croker had two entries and should have won the second race, -but Lucius Lyne, his Kentucky jockey, as the papers declared the -following morning, went to sleep. He led the field easily all the way -around and was cantering toward the wire without any show of speed when -another horse under whip and spur overtook and overlapped him by a nose. -As Croker's horse was the favorite with long odds, considerable -indignation was expressed. He could have won the race without an effort; -or at least that is what the men who lost their money on him say. - -Everybody bets on the races in Ireland, and the way in which the pink -sporting supplements to the newspapers are grabbed on the streets by -people in shabby garments indicates that the submerged section of the -population feel an eager interest in the results of the races. An -ordinary observer would infer that an equal number of people stake a -similar amount of money in the United Kingdom and in the United States, -but there seems to be no harm done there, or at least not enough to -provoke the ban of the law. On the contrary, betting is "regulated." -Bookmakers are all licensed by the government, and if they do not -conduct their business honestly, or if they transgress the proprieties -in any way, their privileges are taken away from them. - -They were scattered here and there among the spectators on the -Leopardstown course, but there is evidently a rule requiring them to -occupy a fixed place, because each of them stood upon a mat or a little -wooden platform or a wagon cushion and never stirred from the spot. Some -of them were dressed in a very conspicuous manner--indicating their -individuality, I suppose, or carrying out some fad. One wore a bright -orange suit that could have been seen a mile or two; another was in -brilliant blue, a peculiar shade of that color I had never seen before, -and his cap was of the same material. Another was in white duck, with -his name painted in large, fancy red letters across his shoulders and -across his breast. Each bookmaker wore a sash, upon which his name was -plainly printed for identification, as well as the number of his -license. Hence we knew that Mike Kelley, Joe Matterson, Timothy Burke, -Patrick Sarsfield, George Bevers, and others, no doubt famous in their -profession, were present. They were all in the open air in front of the -stand, and each bookmaker had a book, a large one, in which he noted -every bet as it was made and gave the bettor a ticket to identify it -which corresponded with the number in the book. There is considerable -clerical work in every transaction; and each bookmaker had a cashier -beside him, wearing a leather pouch over his abdomen that hung from a -strap around his neck. These pouches seemed to be uniform, and also bore -the name and number of the man to whom they belonged. The cashier takes -the money and makes the change while the bookmaker is booking the bet, -and he cashes the tickets of the winners at the close of each race. - -When the bookmaker wasn't booking bets he was yelling like a lunatic to -attract attention. When his lungs were exhausted his cashier relieved -him, and in stentorian tones shouted his judgment as to the result of -the next race. "Put your money on Cathie," one of them would yell. "Put -your money on Desmond," came from a red-faced bookmaker a little -distance away. "Bet your pile on the field," roared a third. "Even money -on Baker's Boy." "I'm giving five to one on Sweet Sister." "I'm offering -three to one on Silver Bell," and so on. The air was filled with similar -cries, which were unintelligible, or at least without significance to a -stranger, but we assumed that each bookmaker had favorites that he was -booming to the best of his ability. - -Well-dressed, respectable-looking women were booking bets as well as -men, and mingling with the crowd on even terms. There was no distinction -of age or sex or rank or previous condition. And we were told that it -was no sign of immorality and no violation of the laws of propriety for -a lady to participate in the pools. Some of them, perhaps from a dislike -to be jostled by the crowd, sent their escorts to book their bets, but -messengers are evidently not allowed. I should judge that the stakes -were small. I watched the cashing in of the winning tickets after -several of the races, and it was mostly silver and a few pieces of gold -that changed hands. I saw but one paper note passed, and you know that -the lowest denomination of the paper money is £5. There was perfect -order, although there seemed to be a great deal of drinking. There was -always a large crowd before the bar between races, but no disturbance at -all. The excitement seemed to occur just after the jockeys were weighed -and while the horses were trotting slowly to the starting post. When the -tapping of a bell told us they were off everybody was silent, and the -victor received no applause when he passed under the wire. The winners -turned their faces from the race track toward the bookmakers, cashed -their checks, and the rest of the crowd strolled off toward the paddock -to look over the candidates for the next running. - -Richard Croker, late of New York, lives on a beautiful farm of five -hundred acres overlooking the Irish Channel, about nine miles south of -Dublin, about two miles from the coast and four miles north of the -ancient town of Bray, which has been celebrated so many times in song -and story. It is an ideal country seat. He has shown the highest degree -of taste in selecting the site and improving the property. He calls it -Glencairn, and the name is chiseled upon the massive pillars that -support a pair of iron gates. These gates are usually open, for he -retains his democratic habits and is an excellent exemplar of Irish -hospitality. Following a short drive between masses of rhododendrons, -laburnums, and hawthorn trees, with friezes and wainscotings of glowing -flower beds, one soon reaches a handsome and well-proportioned miniature -castle of white granite of pleasing architectural design. And from a -flagpole that rises at the top of the tower Mr. Croker sometimes unfolds -the Stars and Stripes. - -Several people told me that there is no finer place for its size, and -Mr. Croker's home is estimated among the first dozen of country seats in -Ireland. It was a rough tract of land when he bought it from one of the -judges of the Irish courts, and had been neglected for many years. At a -large expense and a great amount of labor he has turned it into a little -paradise. What was formerly a wild waste is now one of the loveliest -landscapes you can imagine. The house is surrounded by a lustrous lawn -and a garden of flowers and foliage plants, and behind it is a series of -large hothouses in which he is raising orchids and early fruits and -vegetables. About one hundred acres are in wheat, oats, potatoes, and -other crops, about ten acres in garden, and the remainder of the five -hundred acres is meadow and pasture. - -The interior of the mansion is handsomely furnished according to the -conventional requirements of a wealthy country gentleman, and the walls -are hung with paintings representing racing incidents and famous race -horses of the present and the past. At one end of the portico at the -main entrance is a large screen of white canvas covered with cryptograms -of Egypt, cartouches of the Pharaohs and other designs which Mr. Croker -brought back with him from his visit to the Nile last winter. And in the -main hall are several other Egyptian souvenirs. - -All of the work upon the place has been done by local artisans, and all -of the employees of the stock farm belong to families in the -neighborhood, for Mr. Croker believes in practical home rule. His chief -trainer is an Irishman, like all his grooms, but Lucius Lyne, a -Kentuckian, has ridden his horses since 1906. John Reiff, a famous -American jockey, rode Orby when he won the Derby, and Mr. Croker will -not trust any but American jockeys in his saddles. Every one else about -the place, however, is Irish. And Mr. Croker has been a veritable fairy -godfather to the poor people in his neighborhood, although his old -friends in New York will agree that he does not look the part. He has -not only given employment at good wages to almost every man in that -locality, but has assisted several families in a substantial manner. His -generosity seems to be boundless. He gave every dollar of his winnings -at the Derby to Archbishop Walsh of Dublin for the charities of the -church, and it would amuse you to hear the enthusiastic terms in which -his neighbors praise him for his good heart and his good works. - -He takes no part in local politics, although his sympathies are very -strongly with the nationalist party, and at the last parliamentary -election in 1906 he contributed generously to the campaign fund, and on -election day loaned his automobile and his carriage to haul infirm and -lazy voters to the polls. The contest was between Walter Long, an -Englishman, who had been defeated for parliament by one English -constituency and was sent over there by the conservative leaders in -London to contest one of the Irish seats, and a labor leader named -Hazelton, who had been nominated by the nationalist party. Mr. Croker -took an unusual interest in the fight because, from his point of view, -it was not only an impertinence but an indignity to set up an -Englishman for the votes of an Irish constituency. And he was even the -more indignant when Long was elected, as he claims, by the votes and -influence of the officials and pensioners of the government and the -soldiers of the garrison. He criticises the management of the -nationalist committee for not looking after the registration of their -voters. The registration laws are very strict over here and many of the -poorer classes are disfranchised for not complying strictly with them. -Mr. Croker says that if the contest had been in New York the Tammany -leaders would have got out every vote and Long would have been defeated. -Next time he will undoubtedly give the nationalist campaign managers -some hints as to how an election should be conducted. Mr. Croker is an -earnest home ruler, although he would prefer to see Ireland a republic, -but he says that he does not intend to get mixed up in Irish politics. -He considers his political career as finished and he intends to spend -the rest of his life in the quiet seclusion of his present home with his -horses and intimate friends. - -He says that the Tammany people in New York do not bother him much with -political matters. Occasionally he receives a cablegram, or a letter -asking his advice or his influence, and occasionally somebody comes over -to confer with him, but he considers himself "entirely out of it and -does not want to be bothered." - -Mr. Croker showed us around the place in his silent, matter-of-fact -manner, but could not suppress the pride he feels in his horses and his -satisfaction with the record he has already made upon the turf in -Ireland and England with his own colts, for he doesn't own or race any -but those that are foaled and bred and trained in his own stables. That -is what he is here for, and that is his greatest gratification, and he -likes it a great deal better than politics. He brought with him to -Ireland a famous Kentucky mare named "Rhoda B.," which we did not see -because she was down in the pasture, and from her he has been breeding a -string of colts that have had remarkable success. Every one of them has -been foaled at Glencairn. He has won the English Derby and two Irish -Derbys, and the English Newmarket, which is the third in order of the -great events on the English turf. Rhodora won the thousand-guinea race -in the Newmarket, and Mr. Croker is confident that another colt called -"Alabama" will win the Derby just as Orby did. - -[Illustration: AN IRISH JAUNTING CAR] - -Back of his mansion and his flower garden and his hothouses is a -quadrangle of box stalls. In the center is a statue of Dobbin, the first -horse Mr. Croker ever owned and for which he had great affection. There -are a dozen stalls, and in the first he showed us Orby, a beautiful -creature, as vain and conscious as a prima donna, that seems to realize -the supreme importance of a Derby winner. Nailed upon the door is a gold -plate properly inscribed and inclosed by one of the shoes worn in that -race. - -Across the quadrangle were a number of two-year-olds named Lusitania, -Fluffy Ruffles, Lady Stepaside, Lotus, Lavalta, and one or two others, -all foaled on the place, and six yearlings which Mr. Croker exhibited to -us with the pride of possession, and one or two others which he said -"were no good." At the stable of Alabama he showed more animation and -did more talking than those who know him would suppose him capable of. -Mr. Croker has the reputation of being one of the most reticent and -unemotional men in the world, as all American politicians know, and I -never saw him warm up over anything before. He has a face like a -bulldog, perfectly expressionless, and no one can ever tell whether he -is pleased or displeased from the lines in his face or the tone of his -voice, which is always low and deliberate. But when he showed us -Alabama, the son of Americus and Rhoda B., he woke up and actually -became animated as he described the fine points of the colt and told us -what he had been doing and what he is expected to do. - -Mr. Croker has an even dozen horses and colts in training, and he showed -us some yearlings of great promise. His two-year-olds and -three-year-olds are all entered for races in Ireland, and those that do -well will be sent over to England. In 1907 his horses won forty races in -both countries, and his stable has altogether about three hundred to -its credit since he came to Ireland. - -The horse show at Dublin in August is the greatest event in Ireland, and -draws from the entire kingdom as well as from the Continent, thousands -of horse breeders and horse owners and fashionable people. It is -probably the most brilliant and important horse show in the world. - -There are three kinds of jaunting cars,--"outside cars," in which the -passengers sit back to back with their feet on shelves over the wheels; -"inside cars," in which they sit face to face with their feet in the -middle, and "single cars," which have one seat accommodating two persons -facing the horse. The latter are the most comfortable of all, but give -the passengers a good shaking up, which we are told is excellent for the -liver. - -It is a curious fact that the jaunting car, although it is distinctively -Irish, and would not be tolerated in any other country, was invented and -introduced by an Italian, Charles Bianconi, a native of Milan, who -arrived in Ireland about the year 1800 and set up at Clonmel as an -artist and picture dealer. Being struck by the absence of vehicles in -the country, for everybody went on horseback in those days, he built a -conveyance of his own design which immediately became popular and was -imitated by every one who had the means to build or buy a box and a pair -of wheels. - -Only in Dublin can you hire a covered carriage--four-wheelers or -"growlers," as they are called in London; but in Waterford, Cork, and -Limerick are "covered cars," which are without doubt the most -uncomfortable vehicles that anybody ever rode in, unless it be a Chinese -cart. They are "inside cars," with a hood of canvas or leather over -them, supported by an iron frame or hickory bows. Imagine a large, -square box with one end knocked out of it, and replaced by a step or two -for the passengers to enter; two seats, one on either side, upon which -the passengers sit _vis-a-vis_, clinging to straps suspended from the -roof. There are no windows, no place for ventilation except the open -back, which is covered with a curtain that may be raised or not, -according to the state of the weather. - -[Illustration: GOING TO MARKET] - -Two things which everybody can commend in Ireland are the horses and the -donkeys--the style, strength, beauty, and speed of the one and the -uncomplaining endurance of the other. An Irish horse never gets tired, -is never lazy, and never vicious--at least, that is what his breeders -and owners say of him, and, of course, the Irish hunters are the best in -the world. But the Irish donkey, who does the humble and insignificant -traffic, who hauls the vegetables to market and does the teaming for the -small farmers, is an object of universal admiration. Not for his beauty, -of course, but for those higher qualities that make up character, for -his strength of purpose, his untiring industry, his patient fidelity. -They are the mainstay of the Irish poor, and, although the object of -ridicule and wit, I think the people appreciate them, because they treat -them so much better than the Italians and Spaniards and the peons of the -Spanish-American republics of America. - -"Go back to your brother!" said a street urchin the other day to a -costermonger who left his donkey by the roadside for a few moments. "Go -back to your brother!" said the chauffeur of our automobile to a woman -who was driving a donkey cart and came across to inspect our machine. -"Go back to your brother!" said a policeman to a young boy who was -driving a donkey cart and had jumped off his ordinary seat upon the -whiffletree to resent the attack of some street urchin. And when I asked -the policeman about the use of that phrase, which one hears continually, -he explained that it was common all over Ireland for a donkey driver to -call his beast "brother," and it deserves that name for its fidelity if -for nothing more. - - - - - XXIII - - CORK AND BLARNEY CASTLE - - -Cork is a neat but an ugly town, which had a hundred thousand population -twenty years ago and now has only eighty thousand. The missing ones, -they tell me, have gone to the United States. It is one of the most -prosperous and one of the cleanest cities in Ireland, and, although in -former years strangers complained of pestiferous beggars, we have not -seen a single one. The common people are much better dressed and the -children are much neater in their appearance than those of the similar -class in Dublin. They don't buy their clothing at a slopshop. They are -more cheerful and happy, and the women show more pride and better taste -in their apparel. - -The River Lee, which rises over on the west coast, in Lake -Gougane-Barra, near Killarney, divides into two streams just as it -reaches the city of Cork, and embraces the business section of the town -between the two channels. They are walled up with masonry, and wide -quays on either side furnish plenty of room for handling the commerce, -which seems to be considerable. Large sums of money have been spent to -deepen the channel and furnish conveniences for handling the trade, and -vessels drawing twenty feet of water can come up to the very center of -the city at low tide, where they discharge Welsh coal and English -merchandise and receive agricultural produce, bacon, woolen goods, -hides, and leather, and various other products of Ireland. The walls of -the quay are hung with unconscious artistic taste every morning with -fishing nets. The fishermen bring their catch up the river to the very -door of the market and spread their nets over the gray stones to dry. -The entire distance from these quays to the Atlantic Ocean at -Queenstown, about twelve miles, is a panorama of beauty. For the river -on both sides is inclosed between high bluffs that are clad with the -richest of foliage and flowering plants, among which you can catch -glimpses of artistic villas. Tom Moore called it "the noble sea avenue -of God." - -All tourists like Cork. It is a cheerful city. The atmosphere is -brighter and the streets are more attractive than in Dublin. The shops -are large and the show windows are well dressed, and on St. Patrick's -Street, which, of course, is the principal thoroughfare, there are -several windows full of most appetizing buns and cakes and other things -to eat. But the tradesmen are remarkably late about getting around in -the morning. When I go out for my walk after breakfast, between eight -and nine o'clock, most of the shops are still closed, the doors are -locked, and the shutters are up. None of the retail merchants expect -customers until after nine, and then they open very slowly. The markets -do not commence business until nine o'clock and wholesale dealers and -their clerks do not get down until ten. A gentleman of whom I inquired -about this indolent custom declared that it was as ancient as the ruins -of Fin-Barre Abbey. He declared, however, that although they lie abed -late in the morning the business men of Cork made things hum when they -once got started. - -Cork is a city of churches and some of them are modern, which is a -novelty. The Roman Catholic Cathedral is an imposing structure and the -interior is magnificent. - -One of the "Godless colleges" is in Cork--Queen's College--which -occupies a beautiful situation upon a bluff on the outskirts of the -city, entirely hidden among venerable trees and flowering plants, with a -swift flowing brook at its feet. It was the site of a monastery -established here by Fin-Barre, the patron saint of Cork, who came here -about the year 700, built a chapel, and started a monastic school that -became famous and attracted many students from the continent of Europe. -The city grew up around that monastery and was first composed of -students who lived in huts and cabins of their own construction while -they carried on their studies. Then business men and farmers began to -come in and Cork became a place of sufficient importance to attract the -attention of the Danish sea-rovers who, after plundering it again and -again, took a fancy to the place and settled down here themselves. St. -Fin-Barre was buried in his own church and his dust was afterward taken -out of the tomb and enshrined in a silver reliquary which was carried -away by one of the O'Briens when he drove the McCarthys, who happened to -be a power in 1089, out of his stronghold and looted the place. - -Over the arched entrance to the Queen's College are the significant -words: - -"Where Fin-Barre Taught, Let Munster Learn." - -It is a modern college founded by Queen Victoria in 1849, together with -two others of the same sort at Belfast and Galway, and the three are -affiliated under the title of "The Royal University of Ireland." That -gives the degrees bestowed upon their graduates a higher character and a -greater value according to the notions of the people here. The buildings -are pretentious and of the Tudor order of architecture. They look very -much like those of the Washington University at St. Louis, and are -arranged in a similar manner, only the damp atmosphere here gives the -stone a maturity of color that no college in the United States is old -enough to acquire. There are no dormitories. The students room and board -where they like. There are only lecture-rooms, examination halls, a -library, and a museum. There is no chapel, no religious services, and no -bishops or other clergymen are upon the board of trustees. That is why -the institution is under the ban of the Catholic church, and is not -patronized by the people of the Church of Ireland. There are departments -of art, science, engineering, law, and medicine, but no theology. There -is a school, at which the applied sciences and the trades are taught, -occupying the old building of the Royal Cork Institute and attended by -many ambitious young men and women. It is a sort of Cooper Institute, -founded by a brewer named Crawford, who made his money here. There is -also an agricultural and dairy school, with an experimental farm of -one hundred and eighty acres on the hills about half a mile from the -city, where instruction is given in butter and cheese making and in -general agricultural science. Cork is the center of the dairy trade of -Ireland and exports a great deal of butter to London. - -[Illustration: QUEEN'S COLLEGE, CORK] - -There are several Catholic seminaries and convents and Protestant -boarding-schools for boys and girls and preparatory institutions of -various grades attended by children from all parts of southern Ireland, -which make Cork an educational center. There is a handsome library -presented by Mr. Carnegie, adjoining the City Hall, with twelve thousand -volumes and about three thousand ticket-holders, who, according to the -report of the librarian, borrowed 85,406 books last year, of which -63,902 were works of fiction. There is another library belonging to a -chartered association that is available only to its members. There is an -opera-house and several theatres, and all the advantages and attractions -that one would expect in a city of this size, with a race course of two -hundred and forty acres on the banks of the river, just outside the city -limits. - -There is an attractive promenade, a mile long, called the Mardyke, -sheltered by splendid old trees which form a natural arch overhead, -which was fashionable for gossip and flirtation as long ago as 1720, but -is now given up chiefly to servant girls and their lovers and nurses and -children. - -The birds sing more sweetly in Cork than any place we have been, or -perhaps we have noticed them more readily than we have done elsewhere. -Irish birds are as cheerful and happy as Irish people. When we were -wandering through the campus of Queen's College, just after a shower, -the trees were alive with larks and thrushes. They had come out of their -hiding places and were bursting with song. - -I met an old woman, bent and gaunt and gray, with bright blue eyes and a -canny expression, and asked her the way to the house I was seeking. She -answered with politeness, and I gave her a penny. - -"God welcome you to Ireland," she said. "An' may yer honor's visit be -prosperous. Yer honor is from America. I kin tell that by yer fine looks -and yer fine manners, and I've a son over there meself. I'm nothin' but -a poor widdy on the edge of the grave, or I'd be follering him there at -all, at all." - -And it is astonishing how many people we meet here, who have sons and -brothers and sisters in the United States. Most of them seem to be in -Chicago, Boston, and Brooklyn. Even a rosy-cheeked little newsboy from -whom I bought a paper on the street recognized my nationality and -remarked, "An' I've a brother in Brooklyn, meself, sor." At least -one-fourth of the population of Cork have emigrated to the United States -since the census was taken in 1891, and more are going by every steamer. - -The Protestant Cathedral is a fine, modern building with a lofty central -tower and four smaller towers of the same design surrounding it. It was -finished only a few years ago and cost half a million dollars, most of -the money being derived from legacies. It stands on the site of an -ancient church built by St. Fin-Barre. The grounds are large and -beautifully shaded, with here and there a tomb of some distinguished -man. The service and the singing are quite impressive, and we heard the -best choir we have found in Ireland. - -But the church where everybody goes, which every tourist must visit, is -St. Anne's, on the other side of the river, on Shandon Street, which was -built in 1722, and is remarkable for an extraordinary-looking tower one -hundred and twenty feet high, faced on two sides with red stone and on -the other sides with white stone. It is exceedingly ugly, but the people -of Cork are very much attached to it, and particularly to the chime of -eight bells which hang in the tower and have been immortalized in a -simple little poem by "Father Prout," who was the Rev. Francis Mahoney, -and is buried in the churchyard in the tomb of his ancestors. - -"Father Prout" was the _nom de plume_ of this witty and sentimental -clergyman, who was most prolific with his productions. He wrote odes to -almost everything in Ireland--plain, simple, homely lines, but full of -sentiment and the true poetic spirit. The common people admire them -above all other literary works except the ballads of Tom Moore, and -indeed Father Prout's verses rank with Moore's melodies in popularity. -He also published a great deal of prose, stories and satires and -anecdotes illustrating the thoughts and the habits of his fellow -countrymen, and occasionally a political satire which involved him in a -controversy with his bishop or some political leader. Father Prout in -his famous lyric described the peculiar appearance of the spire of his -church: - - "Parti-colored like the people, - Red and white, stands Shandon's steeple." - - "With deep affection - And recollection - I often think of - Those Shandon bells, - Whose sounds so wild would - In the days of childhood - Fling round my cradle - Their magic spells. - Their magic spells. - - "On this I ponder - Where'er I wander, - And thus grow fonder, - Sweet Cork, of thee, - With thy bells of Shandon - That sound so grand on - The pleasant waters of - The River Lee." - -Most of the streets of Cork are wide and well paved, although they are -entirely devoid of architectural features and, with the exception of the -cathedral, Queen's College, and the courthouse with a stately Grecian -portico, there are no buildings in the city worthy of special mention. -On the Parade, as one of the principal streets is called, is a -conspicuous pile of carved granite that is intensely admired by -everybody. It is designed like a shrine, and under a granite canopy is a -rude statue of "Erin," leaning upon a harp. Outside, at each corner of -the pedestal, are still ruder figures intended to represent Wolf Tone, -Davis, O'Neill, Crowley, and Dwyer, heroes of the continuous struggle -against British domination. The faces of the pedestal are closely -inscribed with names, with these lines in English and Gaelic: - - "Erected through the efforts of the Cork Young Ireland Society to - perpetuate the memory of the gallant men of 1798, 1803, 1848 and - 1867, who fought and died in defense of Ireland, and to recover her - sovereign independence. To inspire the youth of our country to - follow in their patriotic footsteps and to imitate their heroic - example. - - "And righteous men will make our land - A nation once again." - -The breakfast-room at the Imperial Hotel one morning was filled with a -lively and noisy crowd of gentlemen of all ages wearing red coats, -waistcoats of startling pattern, jockey caps, leather leggings, and -heavy brogans. I was told that they represented the nobility of County -Cork, and had gathered to hunt otter along the River Lee and the creeks -that feed it west of the city. There was one woman in the party, who -wore a short skirt of gray tweed, a red jacket, a jockey cap, and high -boots. In the stableyard was a pack of hounds in leash which had been -brought in from the country. The Marquis of Conyngham was master of the -hunt. Otter hunting in the summer along the swampy, muddy banks of the -creeks of Ireland takes the place of fox hunting in the winter. The -elusive otter is tracked to his hole by the hounds and is then stirred -out by gallant gentlemen with pikes--long poles shod with iron -tips--after they have chased him through the mud. They keep the skins -for robes, stuff the heads for ornaments, and mount the tails for -brushes. These hunts take place at least twice a week during the summer -season and are sometimes attended by forty or fifty noblemen and gentry. - -Cork is a very orderly city. The laws are strictly enforced. I noticed -by the newspaper reports of the police courts that people are fined for -profane swearing and for boisterous behavior. We didn't see a drunken -man or woman in Cork, and in Dublin they were common. This is largely -due to the work of Bishop O'Callahan and the priests of his diocese and -the influence of Father Mathew, the great apostle of temperance, who led -a movement that reached every corner of the world about fifty years ago. -There are monuments to Father Mathew in many of the cities of Ireland. -There is one in Dublin on the principal street, between that of Daniel -O'Connell and that now being erected to Parnell, while in Cork the -statue of Father Mathew on St. Patrick's Street is the center and focus -of all activity. It faces the entrance to the principal bridge over the -River Lee and all the street-car lines terminate there. A memorial -church has been erected to his memory here, and the Church of the Holy -Trinity, of which he was the pastor, has been restored and enlarged. -Father Mathew is buried in St. Joseph's Cemetery, on the outskirts of -the city, which was formerly the Botanic Gardens, and was obtained by -him for a burial place for his congregation in 1830. His precious dust -is inclosed in a fine sarcophagus surmounted by the figure of an angel -in white marble. - -Theobold Mathew was a Capuchin friar, born in Cork, and was attached to -the Church of the Holy Trinity in that city. In 1838 he joined a -temperance society that had been started by some Protestant gentlemen, -chiefly Quakers, for the purpose of offering an example to young -mechanics in his parish. He soon became the leading spirit of the -organization, was made its president, and finally started upon a mission -throughout Ireland to organize similar societies and to promote total -abstinence among the people. From that time he devoted his life to the -work, and being an orator of remarkable power and possessed of -extraordinary energy, zeal, and devotion, he excited the interest of -every class of people and of every community on the island. The -influence of his agitation was felt in England, Scotland, Australia, -America, and in every other part of the world until his name became a -universal synonym for temperance. Father Mathew's Total Abstinence -societies are still found in almost every city and town in which the -English language is spoken. He addressed immense audiences and spoke -twice on Tara Hill, which was the throne of the kings of Ireland before -Julius Cæsar ruled at Rome. He administered total abstinence pledges to -half the people in the country, and intemperance in drink, with its -attendant evils and misery, almost disappeared from Ireland. The famine -that followed his crusade destroyed much of the good effect, because it -demoralized the people and many tried to drown their sorrows in drink. -It has been said that Father Mathew died of a broken heart, because so -many of his converts violated their pledges, but, since the days of -Peter the Hermit, no individual has exercised such a moral influence. - -"Now, Terence, me b'y, tell the loidies and gintlemen all ye know, an' -kape the rist to yoursilf," was the parting injunction of the porter of -the Imperial Hotel to the jarvey of the jaunting car, as he tucked the -rugs around our legs and started us off for Blarney Castle, which is -five miles from town. It is a delightful drive, for the suburbs of Cork -are surrounded by fertile farms and the pastures are illuminated with -buttercups in summer, and inclosed in hedges of hawthorn that are bright -with blossoms. All nature seems to be in a cheerful mood these days, and -the frequent rains, which interfere considerably with motoring, give an -appearance of freshness to all the vegetation and a vitality to the -trees and plants and flowers and everything growing. That is peculiar to -Ireland. It is true that showers come down and cease with surprising -suddenness and frequency, and the rain falls as if it was very heavy and -had dropped a long distance, but if you carry an umbrella, and that is -the universal custom, you are none the worse for it. - -A narrow-gauge baby railway starts from outside the campus of Queen's -College in Cork and runs to Blarney, a town of about eight hundred -inhabitants, mostly farmers, who cultivate the surrounding soil and -breed cattle, while their wives and daughters work in a woolen factory -belonging to the Mahoney brothers, which is said to produce the best -tweed in the kingdom. And you can buy suitings at the shops in Cork. -Nothing is sold at the factory. - -Blarney Castle, as everybody knows, is one of the best preserved and -most beautiful of the many ruins of Ireland, and is probably better -known throughout the world than any other because of the marvelous -qualities of a famous stone which forms a part of its walls. As Father -Prout in one of his verses expresses it: - - "There is a stone there - That whoever kisses, - Oh, he never misses - To grow eloquent. - 'Tis he that may clamber - To my lady's chamber, - Or become a member - Of parliament." - -The castle stands on the banks of a dashing stream called the Comane, -full of trout and well protected, and is surrounded by a wonderful -forest of cedar, birch, and beech trees that are centuries old. Their -trunks are entwined with ivy, and the rocks and ledges upon which the -castle stands are cushioned with the same material. I don't know that I -have ever seen such luxurious ivy or such sumptuous vegetation out of -the tropics, or such fragrant shade. There are natural caves and -grottoes in the cliffs, all of which have served a useful purpose in -ancient times, and are associated with various fascinating legends. -There is a difficult ascent to a natural terrace that is called "The -Witch's Stairs." A thoughtful owner of this glorious forest has placed -benches at easy intervals, where visitors may sit and read the history, -traditions, and legends of the place and imagine that he can see the -fairies that dance by moonlight on the carpet of ivy that conceals the -earth. Every step is haunted by a goblin or a ghost, and every dark and -gloomy corner has been the scene of a tragedy. - -The castle is well kept, and Sir George Colthurst, the owner, makes it -as pleasant as he can for the thousands of tourists who come here every -year from all parts of the world, and of course a large majority of -them are Americans. No tourist thinks of visiting Ireland without seeing -Blarney Castle, and aside from the legends and the satisfaction of -having been here it is well worth the trouble. The tower or "keep," -which was the fortified part of the building, is almost intact except -the floors, but the residential portions have crumbled and fallen away. -The castle was built by Cormack MacCarthy, Prince of Desmond, who ruled -all of Ireland south of Cork, in 1173. The Desmond clan fought the -Geraldines (the followers of the Earl of Kildare, whose territory -adjoined them on the north) until 1537, when a league was formed between -the two clans, with other princes, against the English, who were kept -pretty busy within the Pale, as the territory immediately around Dublin -was called. - -Lady Eleanor MacCarthy saved the life of Gerald Fitzgerald, the son of -Silken Thomas, Earl of Kildare, who rebelled against English authority. -She succeeded in escaping from the country with him and taking him to -Rome, where the babe, the only survivor of the vengeance of Henry VIII., -was concealed and cared for by a cardinal who happened to be a distant -relative. And it was thus, through the devotion of a brave woman, from -its hereditary enemies, that the house of Kildare escaped extinction. - -In the time of Queen Elizabeth, however, upon the suppression of what is -known in history as the Geraldine rebellion, the vast estates of the -Earl of Desmond and those of the MacCarthys and one hundred and forty -other chiefs and landowners in Munster were confiscated by a parliament -that met in Dublin, and were given to English adventurers for two pence -and three pence an acre and sometimes for no price at all, upon -agreements that they would colonize the lands with Englishmen. The head -of the house at that date was imprisoned in the Tower of London with Sir -Walter Raleigh, accused of treason, and it was he who outwitted Queen -Elizabeth with his "deludering" until she coined the word "blarney" to -describe his fluent conversation. - -[Illustration: BLARNEY CASTLE, COUNTY CORK] - -The famous Blarney stone is as well known as the King of England, and -the superstition is that whoever kisses it becomes instantly endowed -with wonderful persuasion of speech. But very few people and only the -most daring athletes have ever tried the experiment. The miraculous -stone is the sill of a window, which projects from the main wall near -the top of the tower. As it is eight or ten inches below the level of -the floor and across an open space of about twenty or twenty-four -inches, it is not only difficult, but dangerous to attempt to reach it. -A slip would send you head first to the ground, one hundred and twenty -feet below. The only way in which it can be done is for the person who -tries to support himself over the edge of the wall by straps from the -top, and, with his face upward, draw himself across until his lips can -reach the stone. Almost everybody that visits Blarney Castle comes home -with a tale of the time he had in kissing the Blarney stone, but no one -has seen him doing so for years, and it can only be done by carrying -tackle to the castle. Mrs. Hanna Ford, a gentle and considerate old -lady, who has been custodian of the place for more than thirty-six -years, told me that she had never known but half a dozen people to kiss -the stone in all that time. - -Sir George Colthurst, the owner, charges a sixpence of every visitor and -collects scarcely enough to pay the expenses of keeping the place in -order. The visitors average about one hundred a day during the summer -months, but nobody ever goes out there during the winter. - -Kilkenny is one of the prettiest and most interesting little cities of -the kingdom, and is simply loaded with historical associations, -political, personal, military, and religious. No town has more -fascination for a student of the history of Ireland, because here was -enacted that extraordinary and outrageous code known as the statute of -Kilkenny of 1367, which was intended to exterminate everything Irish -from the face of the earth. According to this law intermarriage, trade, -and relations of every kind between the English settlers in Ireland and -the natives was forbidden as high treason, and the punishment was death. -It was intended to separate the two races entirely and forevermore. If -any man wore Irish clothing, or used the Celtic language, or rode a -horse without a saddle, as the Irish were accustomed to do, his lands -and houses were forfeited and he was sent to prison. The Irish were -forbidden to follow their ordinary customs and habits, and were -commanded to speak only English, a language they did not know. It was -forbidden them to speak Celtic, it was forbidden them to sing native -songs or to receive or listen to Irish bards or pipers; no native could -become a clergyman, a lawyer, or enter any of the professions, and every -possible connection with the past was obliterated. All Irish books and -manuscripts were ordered to be destroyed, and if the intention of the -parliament which passed that law in Kilkenny in 1367 had been obeyed, -every event, tradition, and legend concerning the Irish race would have -been forgotten. But it soon became a dead letter. It could not be -enforced, and the English and the Irish continued to live in a friendly -way, and intermarry and enjoy themselves as much as ever before. - -Then Kilkenny was the scene of the famous "Irish confederation," which -met here in 1642 with the intention of reconciling all the conflicting -interests in Ireland and doing exactly the reverse of what was proposed -by the statute of 1367. It was desirable to unite the Irish with the -English to sustain King Charles I., and to defend the Roman Catholic -religion against Cromwell and the parliament. Therefore Kilkenny became -the object of resentment and vindictiveness to the parliamentary army -when it invaded Ireland. The destruction committed by that army may be -seen all through this part of the country. Kilkenny is in the midst of a -land of ruins, and this county has been fought over for ages--one of the -most frequent scenes of conflict in all the universe ever since history -began. - -There is an Irish town and an English town, as in Limerick, and the two -are engaged in an eternal controversy, the racial prejudice being -intense. This controversy, which at one time had nearly impoverished -both communities, was illustrated by a writer two centuries ago by the -famous story of the "Kilkenny Cats," which, by the way, is said to be -true. In the sixteenth century, during the time of Queen Elizabeth, some -soldiers of the English garrison at Kilkenny Castle amused themselves -one day by catching two vagrant cats, tying their tails together and -hanging them over a line. An indignant officer coming up in the midst of -their hilarity endeavored to separate the animals, and, being unable to -do so, released them by slashing off the tails of both with his sword; -and as their paws touched the ground, they fled into oblivion. The -waggish soldiers preserved the remnants of the tails and showed them as -evidence of the combative abilities of the cats of Kilkenny, which -fought until nothing was left but their tails. - -Kilkenny claims the most beautiful church in Ireland--the Cathedral of -St. Canice, formerly Roman Catholic, but since the Reformation belonging -to the Church of Ireland. It dates back to 1251, but was thoroughly -restored in 1865, and is now in almost perfect condition. It is -particularly rich in medieval monuments, and no other church in the -country can compare with this for number, variety, artistic beauty, and -historic interest. The Roman Catholic cathedral is also a gem and -entirely modern, having been completed and consecrated in 1857. It is -greatly admired for the symmetry and chasteness of its details. - -Kilkenny is also famous as an educational center, having several noted -schools. One of them, known as The College, has had Dean Swift, Bishop -Berkeley (who went to America in 1728, and established schools and -missionary stations), Congreve, and other famous Irishmen as pupils. - -The Castle of Kilkenny, which was erected by William Le Mareschal, -son-in-law of Strongbow, in 1191, is still in excellent condition, but -has been added to and repaired from time to time during the centuries. -It was thoroughly altered and restored about fifty years ago by the -father of the present Duke of Ormonde, and has since been occupied the -greater part of the year by the family. Fortunately, in the extensions -and restorations, the original character of the structure has been -preserved and its individuality has not been impaired. It forms three -sides of a large quadrangle with three round towers, castellated in the -style of the twelfth century. The dining-hall is one of the finest rooms -in Europe and contains many pieces of gold plate, antique ivory, and -china that have been in the family for centuries. The picture gallery is -a splendid apartment, one hundred and twenty feet long and thirty feet -wide, and contains more than one hundred and eighty pictures, including -family portraits by Van Dyck, Holbein, Lely, Kellner, Reynolds, and -others, and gems of Murillo, Correggio, Salvatore Rosa, Claude Lorrain, -Tintoretto, and other great masters. In the drawing-room is a picture of -the Virgin and Child, by Correggio, which was presented to the second -Duke of Ormonde by the Dutch government in recognition of his services -in the Low Countries during the reign of Queen Anne. The garden and the -park are superb and the family are generous enough to permit the public -to share in their enjoyment of them. - -The Ormonde family stands next to the Geraldines at the head of the -nobility, and the two have always been rivals in power and equals in -renown. Their history has been the history of Ireland and fills many -interesting pages from the time of the Anglo-Norman invasion. The -surname of the family, Butler, originated in the appointment of Theobold -Fitzwalter, who accompanied Henry II. as chief butler to the king and -was granted the prisage of the wines of Ireland--a very valuable -monopoly. He returned to England with his sovereign but afterward -accompanied Prince John into Ireland in 1185, and was granted large -tracts of land for his services. The family grew in numbers and in power -and wealth and the rivalry with the Kildares began in 1300, although -they were intermarried in several generations. James Butler was created -the first Earl of Ormonde by Edward I. in 1321, and married a daughter -of the king. He was granted the regalities, libraries, etc., of County -Tipperary and built his castle there. James, the second Earl of Ormonde, -was also a man of great importance. He was called the noble earl, -because he was a grandson of King Edward I. and was Lord Justice of -Ireland from 1359 to 1376. - -[Illustration: KILKENNY CASTLE; RESIDENCE OF THE DUKE OF ORMONDE] - -The Castle of Kilkenny was built by James, third Earl of Ormonde, in -1391. His daughter married the Earl of Desmond. James, the fifth Earl of -Ormonde, was created Earl of Wiltshire in the peerage of England by -Henry VI., and was lord high treasurer of England for many years, but -was beheaded at Newcastle by the Yorkists. His titles and estates were -confiscated, but were restored to John, sixth Earl of Ormonde, who was -ranked the first gentleman of his age. He was a complete master of all -the languages of Europe, was sent as ambassador to all of the principal -courts, paid a pilgrimage to Jerusalem, and King Edward IV. once said -that if good breeding and liberal qualities were lost to the world, they -might all be found in the Earl of Ormonde. - -Thomas, the tenth in line and called from his complexion "The Black -Earl," was lord treasurer for Queen Elizabeth, with whom he was a great -favorite. James, the twelfth earl, was made Duke of Ormonde in 1610 and -was for many years lord lieutenant of Ireland, administering that high -office with consummate ability during the civil war. He was known as the -Great Duke of Ormonde and is buried in Westminster Abbey. - -His son James was one of the first to join the standard of the Prince of -Orange and, when the latter ascended the throne, was appointed high -constable of England. He attended William to Ireland, fought by his side -at the battle of the Boyne, and entertained his sovereign most -sumptuously at the family castle at Kilkenny. He was made -commander-in-chief of the army sent against France and Spain by Queen -Anne in 1702; he destroyed the French fleet, sank the Spanish galleons -in the harbor of Vigo, and remained as captain-general of the British -forces until the treaty of Utrecht in 1713. Two years later, after -George I. succeeded to the throne, Ormonde was impeached of high -treason, his estates were declared forfeited, all his titles and honors -were extinguished, and a reward of fifty thousand dollars was offered by -the British parliament for his apprehension if he should attempt to -return from France, where he had fled for refuge. His wife was the -daughter of the Earl of Rochester, and, unfortunately, he had no sons, -but one of his daughters married the Duke of Somerset and the other the -Duke of Beaufort, two of the most eminent men in England. Ormonde -resided in seclusion at Avignon until his death, in November, 1745, when -his remains were brought to London and deposited in Henry VII.'s chapel -at Westminster Abbey. His brother, the Earl of Arran, claimed the estate -and the title, but it was decided that no proceedings of the English -parliament could affect Irish dignities, and he never enjoyed them, but -lived in Scotland. - -In 1791 the House of Lords restored the ancient rights and estates to -the eldest son of the eldest daughter. Walter, the eighteenth earl, in -1810 disposed of the prisage of the wines of Ireland granted to the -fourth earl by Edward I., to the crown for £216,000, and the contract -was approved by parliament. It was not until the coronation of George -IV. that the family was entirely reinstated. James, the nineteenth earl, -was then installed a knight of St. Patrick, was advanced to the dignity -of a marquis of the United Kingdom, and was made lord lieutenant of -Ireland. He had a large family and his sons and daughters married well. -His son John, born in 1818, married the daughter of the Marquis of -Annesley, and died Sept. 25, 1854, leaving two sons--James Edward -William Theobold, the present marquis, and James Arthur Wellington Foley -of the Life Guards, who in 1887 married Ellen Stager of Chicago, -daughter of the late General Anson Stager, formerly president of the -Western Union Telegraph Company. As the present duke has no direct heir, -Nellie Stager's son will inherit the titles and estates of one of the -oldest and most famous families of Ireland. - -At Clonmel, which claims to be the cleanest town in Ireland, is another -fine castle over which an American girl presides--the wife of Lord -Doughnamore. She was a Miss Grace of New York, a niece of the late -William R. Grace and a daughter of Michael P. Grace, who owns and lives -in that famous castle known as "Battle Abbey" in Kent County, England, -near the city of Canterbury. Mr. Grace and Lord Doughnamore were -partners for many years in what was known as the Peruvian Corporation--a -company which assumed all of the foreign indebtedness of that republic -and took over all of its railroads as compensation. - - - - - XXIV - - REMINISCENCES OF SIR WALTER RALEIGH - - -In the year of Queen Elizabeth's accession to the throne a terrible -rebellion broke out in Ireland, led by the Earl of Desmond, chief of the -Geraldines, the most powerful of all the clans, which was put down by -Lord Grey of Wilton, who came over from England and laid the Kingdom of -Munster in ashes. The great Earl of Desmond who had been master of -almost half of Ireland and the owner of numerous castles, was defeated -in many battles, his forces were scattered, his stronghold destroyed, -and he was proclaimed an outlaw and hunted from one hiding place to -another. In order to repopulate the country the vast estates belonging -to him and one hundred and forty of his adherents were confiscated, and -proclamation was made throughout all England inviting gentlemen to -"undertake the colonization of this rich territory at the rate of two or -three pence an acre." None but English settlers were allowed, and tracts -of land of four thousand acres and upward were granted to favorites of -the throne, to enterprising English noblemen, and to worthless -adventurers, very few of whom ever saw the property, but some of them -organized colonies and sent them over to Ireland in charge of agents. - -[Illustration: THE ANCIENT CITY OF YOUGHAL, COUNTY CORK; THE HOME OF SIR -WALTER RALEIGH] - -Edmund Spenser, the poet, author of that famous poem, "The Faerie -Queene," was private secretary to Lord Grey, and received twelve -thousand acres in County Cork, including Kilcolman Castle, the ruins of -which, near the town of Buttevant, are visited by tourists still. Sir -Walter Raleigh got forty-one thousand acres, also from the Desmond -estate, in the counties of Cork and Waterford, and made his home in what -is now known as Myrtle Lodge in the ancient town of Youghal. His -house still stands very much as it was when he left it, and is owned and -occupied by Sir Henry Blake, recently retired from the governorship of -the British Colony of Hong-Kong. Lady Blake is a relative of the Duchess -of St. Albans, whose husband is descended from the illegitimate son of -Charles II. and Nell Gwynne. He is one of the most influential peers in -the United Kingdom and kindly looks after his kin. The previous owner of -the property, curiously enough, was Sir John Pope Hennessy, the -predecessor of Sir Henry Blake as governor of Jamaica, of Ceylon, and of -Hong-Kong. - -Sir Walter Raleigh called Youghal his home from the time he first came -to Ireland, twenty-eight years old, as a captain in the command of Lord -Grey, and, according to the records, received a salary of four shillings -a day for himself, two shillings a day for his lieutenant, fourteen -pence a day each for four non-commissioned officers, and eight pence a -day for every common soldier, all of whom were also provided with "good -furniture," that is, suitable armor and trappings, at the expense of the -government. They were mostly Devonshire men, like their captain, full of -reckless courage and energy, like their captain, and the amount of -damage they committed under Sir Walter's leadership was entirely out of -proportion to their numbers and their pay. Sir Walter lived at Myrtle -Lodge where he studied the chronicles of the Spanish and Portuguese -explorers of South America, and started from there upon his ill-fated -expedition to Virginia. He returned to this home whenever he could -escape from the presence of his affectionate but fickle queen, and it -was there that he wrote most of his poems and his letters and commenced -his "History of the World." After he lost his power and influence and -was committed to the Tower as a traitor, his property was confiscated. -Lady Raleigh was deprived of everything he left her, including an estate -called "Tivoli," in the neighborhood of Cork, and was actually in want -of bread when James I., in response to a touching petition, gave her a -pension of £400 per annum and a home for life. She was granted another -special favor which she valued very highly. After Sir Walter's execution -his head was sent to her. She had it embalmed and carried it about with -her wherever she traveled. At her death the ghastly relic was left to -Carew Raleigh, who treasured it as highly as his mother had done, but, -fortunately for subsequent generations, stipulated that it should be -buried in his coffin with him when he died. Raleigh's confiscated -estates fell into the hands of Sir Richard Boyle, the second Earl of -Cork, and were retained by that family after his death. - -Lady Desmond, the widow of the great earl, who until his treason, was -the richest man in Ireland, and was known as "Queen Elizabeth's -wealthiest subject," was also compelled by her poverty to apply for a -pension. Upon the recommendation of Sir Walter Raleigh Queen Elizabeth -allowed twenty-two pounds a year to "this lady of princely castles and -fair gardens," whose gowns of cloth of gold are referred to in one of -Raleigh's letters. The royal warrant granting the pension, above the -bold autograph of Elizabeth, is now among many other interesting relics -in the old house at Youghal. Lady Desmond is buried in the ancient -Church of St. Mary's, which occupies the adjoining ground. She lies in a -recess in the south wall with her effigy carved upon her sarcophagus. -Her liege lord, the great Earl of Desmond, lies in a similar tomb in a -similar recess in the opposite wall, although he lost his head in the -Tower of London. Why the husband should rest on one side of the church -and the wife on the other has never been explained. She must have been a -very remarkable old lady, for, according to the records, she lived more -than one hundred and forty years. She was born in 1502, married Thomas -Fitzgerald, eighth Earl of Desmond, in 1520. His estates were -confiscated in 1585; Raleigh first met her in 1589, and her pension was -granted in 1598. Robert Sydney, second Earl of Leicester, refers to her -about 1640, when he was ambassador at Paris, as follows: "The old -Countess of Desmond was a marryed woman in Edward IV.'s time in England, -and lived till toward the end of Queen Elizabeth, so she must needes be -neare 140 yeares old. She had a new sett of teeth, not long afore her -death, and might have lived much longer had she not mett with a kinde of -violent death; for she would needes climbe a nut tree to gather nuts; -so, falling down, she hurte her thigh, which brought a fever and that -fever brought death. This, my cousin, Walter Fitzwilliam, tolde me." - -The wealth of the Earl of Desmond at the time of his rebellion may be -judged from the fact that eight hundred thousand acres of his property -were confiscated in County Cork, five hundred and seventy thousand acres -in County Limerick, and over a million acres in Tipperary. All of this -area, by virtue of a proclamation, reverted to the crown and was divided -by Queen Elizabeth among her favorites and among the "undertakers" who -agreed to settle the lands exclusively with Englishmen and to drive out -the Irish from them entirely. There were other conditions, also. They -were to encourage the English and discourage the Irish in every way -possible and no natives of Ireland were to be allowed upon their -possessions. - -The Earl of Desmond is said to have owned thirty castles and fled from -one to another, accompanied by his faithful wife, who never left him -except occasionally when she went to intercede for him with his enemies. -His grandson, William Fielding, was made Earl of Denbigh, in the English -peerage, by Charles I., as a reward for his loyalty, and the family have -been known since by the latter title. He was mortally wounded in a sharp -skirmish at the head of the king's forces against Cromwell in a battle -near Birmingham and died soon after. His son attended Charles I. to the -scaffold and received from his sovereign a few moments before his -execution a ring in which his majesty's miniature was set. That ring is -now in possession of the family. - -The present earl is Rudolph Robert Basil Aloysius Augustine Fielding, -who was born in 1859 and married in 1884 to the daughter of Lord -Clifford. He was a lord-in-waiting to Queen Victoria for several years, -until her death, and is now a lord-in-waiting to his majesty, King -Edward. He served as aid-de-camp to the Marquis of Londonderry when the -latter was lord lieutenant of Ireland. - -Canon Hayman, who was curate of St. Mary's Church at Youghal for many -years and made a thorough investigation of the history of the town and -the church and all the remarkable incidents that have occurred here from -the beginning of time, tells us that the Countess of Desmond was one -hundred and thirty years old when she went to see Queen Elizabeth about -her pension, and that she walked all the way from Bristol to London -because she was too poor to hire a conveyance. And the young man who -showed us about St. Mary's Church added another interesting item to the -already interesting story,--that her daughter, who was ninety years of -age, made the trip with her, but became so weak and weary that the -countess had to carry her on her back--which seems to be spreading it on -a little thick. - -In the garden of Myrtle Lodge Sir Walter Raleigh planted, probably in -the year 1586, the first potatoes that were brought to Ireland. Potatoes -are natives of Peru and their merits were discovered there by the -Jesuits, who accompanied Pizarro during the conquest. They sent samples -back to Spain, as they did with quinine or cinchona bark, which was -named in honor of the Countess of Cinchona, wife of the Spanish viceroy -of Peru. They also sent potatoes to the Spanish colonies in the West -Indies, where Sir Walter Raleigh obtained the seed that he planted in -his garden at Youghal, and the fruit of that seed has fed the population -of Ireland for nearly three centuries. The garden is also interesting -because the first cherry tree in Europe was grown there. Sir Walter -Raleigh brought the seed of the affane cherry from the Azores Islands, -whence it is believed to have been transplanted to America. The cherry -orchards throughout the United Kingdom can nearly all be traced to this -source. - -You can run down to Youghal from Cork by rail in an hour, for the -distance is only thirty miles and the train passes through a very pretty -country. Shortly after leaving the station it dashes by Black Rock -Castle, now a lighthouse and a storehouse for extra buoys and cables and -lights for the harbormaster, the place from which William Penn embarked -for America. His father, an admiral in the navy, lived at Macroom, about -thirty miles west of Cork, where the great Quaker was born. On the other -side, a little farther down, as we follow the banks of the River Lee, is -Tivoli, an amusement resort, which was once the home of Sir Walter -Raleigh, and Lady Raleigh lived there while he was off on his final -expedition to America. - -"Wood Hill" was the home of John Philpott Curran, the great orator and -barrister, whose daughter was the sweetheart of Robert Emmet. - -Youghal is a summer resort. There is sea bathing and boating and -delicious salt air which gives one a lazy feeling and takes away his -eagerness for antiquities and history. The only thing in the town to -attract strangers is the home of Sir Walter Raleigh and St. Mary's -Protestant Church, which is said to be the oldest house of worship in -which service is regularly held in all the world. It remains practically -unaltered from the eighth century, and one of the transepts dates from -the sixth century. There are tombs dating back to the eighth and ninth -and tenth centuries, and a slab of marble upon the altar is said to have -been taken from a Druid temple which stood on the same site. - -Four holes about five inches in diameter have been made in the walls -each side of the chancel about two-thirds of the way to the roof opening -into large chambers within the walls. The verger told us that this was -an invention to relieve an echo and had been entirely successful. I have -never seen it anywhere else, and he insisted that it is unique. - -He also pointed out Masonic emblems on tombs of the twelfth century and -several quaint epitaphs. One of them was as follows: - - "A burial for Cristas Harford - Here is made, - Where he and his intend - For to be laid. - His life is known - Both what he was and is. - Who hopes to end the - Same in Heavenly Bliss. - 1618. - Mayor of Youghal and Knight, - Knight of the Garter." - -The tomb of Sir Edward Villiers, brother of the great Duke of -Buckingham, is decorated with his lance and his banner. He died "Lord -President of Munster, Anno Domini 1620," and his epitaph reads: - - "Munster may Curse - The time that Villiers came - To make us Worse. - While leaving such a Name - Of noble Parts - As none can Imitate. - But those whose Harts - Are married to the State. - But if they Press - To imitate his Fame - Munster may Bless - The time that Villiers Came." - -Mrs. Charles Fleetwood, daughter of Oliver Cromwell and widow of General -Ireton, who died from wounds during the siege of Limerick, is buried in -the center of the chancel. Cromwell had his headquarters here for some -time and appointed his son-in-law, Fleetwood, lord deputy in 1649. - -Raleigh was twenty-eight years old when he came to Ireland from -Devonshire in 1579 as captain of a levy of troops, and Youghal is the -only home he ever had so far as we know. He sailed from there upon his -last and fatal voyage on Aug. 6, 1617. - -There is still another association which will appeal with force to the -majority of the masculine readers of these lines. From Myrtle Lodge Sir -Walter Raleigh introduced tobacco into the United Kingdom, having -brought it home from the West Indies where the Spaniards found the -natives smoking it at the time of the discovery of America. Columbus and -his followers carried it back with them to Spain. Fifty years afterward -Sir Walter Raleigh introduced it at the court of Queen Elizabeth and -brought to Youghal the first tobacco ever seen in Ireland, which he -smoked under a group of four wonderful yew trees while he read the -manuscript of Edmund Spenser's "Faerie Queene," which had been submitted -for his criticism by the author. A considerable part of the fourth book -of the poem was written at Myrtle Lodge while Spenser was Sir Walter's -guest, and the remainder at Kilcolman Castle on the River Blackwater. -The poem was never finished, but its publication is due to Sir Walter, -for he took the manuscript to London, placed it with the printer, and -provided the means to pay the expense. He thought so highly of the poem -that, in a double sonnet, composed while Spenser was visiting him at -Youghal, he says: - - "All suddenly I saw the Faerie Queene, - At whose approach the soul of Petrarch wept." - -It is therefore very natural that Spenser should reply in these lines: - - "Thou only, fit this argument to write, - In whose high thoughts pleasure hath built her bower, - And dainty love learnt sweetly to indite." - -Spenser was a man of delicate sensibilities and great refinement of -character, but lacked the masterful spirit, the ambition, the energy, -and the dominating will of Raleigh. The latter, however, had rare -literary taste. He is better known as soldier, adventurer, sailor, and -explorer. Spenser called him the "shepherd of the seas," but some of his -sonnets are immortal. They rank with those of Shakespeare in poetic -fancy, delicacy of expression, and sublimity of thought, and his prose -work, especially his history of the world, which was begun at Myrtle -Lodge and finished while he was a prisoner in the Tower of London, -ranked among the literary triumphs of his day and generation. - -Sir John Pope Hennessy, to whom I have already referred as the former -owner of the home of Raleigh at Youghal, spent several years in an -investigation of state papers and other historical material relating to -the administration of Irish affairs during the reign of Queen Elizabeth, -and does not leave a fragment of Raleigh's reputation as a man of honor. -He has written a book entitled "Raleigh in Ireland," which is begun and -finished in an unfriendly spirit, and holds Raleigh responsible for all -the troubles that occurred in Ireland at his time and since. - -If one-half that Hennessy tells of Raleigh's work in Ireland is true, he -was a man of treachery, untruth, unbridled passion, and monstrous -cruelty, but this is no place to discuss that question. Raleigh was a -prisoner in the Tower of London with James, Earl of Desmond, successor -of the man whose estates he confiscated and occupied. The death of the -earl prompted Raleigh in a letter from the Tower to say: - - "Wee shal be judged as wee judge--and bee dealt withal as wee deal - with others in this life--if wee beleve God Hyme sealf." - -[Illustration: MYRTLE LODGE; THE HOME OF SIR WALTER RALEIGH] - -Myrtle Lodge remains very much as it was when Raleigh lived there. Few -historical houses have been altered so little or have been preserved -with greater care. Sir Walter's study is hung with an original painting -of the first governor of Virginia and a contemporary engraving of -"Elizabeth, Queen of Virginia." The long table at which he wrote, an oak -chest in which he kept his papers, a little Italian cabinet filled with -old deeds and parchments, some bearing his seal; two bookcases of -vellum-bound volumes of the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries; and all -of the furniture dates from his time. We are assured that there is -nothing in the room that was not in the house at the time he occupied -it. The dining-room is one of the choicest examples of fifteenth century -domestic architecture that can be found, having a deep projecting bay -window and porch, an orieled closet, a wide, arched fireplace, and -walls wainscoted with rich, ripe Irish oak. The drawing-room has a -carved oaken mantelpiece which rises to the ceiling. The cornice rests -upon three figures representing Faith, Hope, and Charity. In the -adjoining bedroom is another mantelpiece of oak, and the fireplace is -lined with old Dutch tiles. Behind the wainscoting of this room, while -repairs were being made fifty years ago, an ancient monkish library was -found, which, it was thought, was hidden there to escape the Covenanters -at the time of the Reformation. - -A gentleman on our train to Youghal made the interesting statement that -Sir Walter Raleigh was the first patron of Protestant foreign missions. -He contributed £100 to start the Society for the Propagation of the -Gospel in Foreign Lands. I had never heard of this fact before, but my -informant said that it came out at the three hundredth anniversary of -the organization of that society which was celebrated in London in 1906. - -Until the Congested Districts Board undertook the work, lacemaking was -practically confined to the convents. There are two classes of true -Irish lace--needle-point, which is made by the needle, and the bobbin -lace--the threads of which are twisted around small bobbins of bone, -wood, or ivory. Both of these laces are made entirely by hand, which is -not true of the Limerick and Carrickmacross laces. Needle-point lace was -first introduced into Ireland by the sisters of the Presentation Convent -of Youghal, as a means of helping the famine-stricken inhabitants to -earn money in the terrible years of 1847-50. It was imitated from -Italian models, but has since been much developed and enriched both in -design and execution so that it may be considered original. Irish point -lace has its individuality as strong as Brussels point. - -The Presentation Convent was founded in 1833 by Rev. Mother Mary -Magdalene Gould, a wealthy Irish woman, who had lived many years in -foreign countries. She was distinguished for her benevolence and love -for the poor, and consecrated her life and her property to the -education of the children of the poor. When the famine occurred in 1847 -she admitted to the convent every child that could be accommodated, and -also gave asylum to many widows who were left homeless and destitute. In -order to furnish her _protégés_ some occupation and and enable them to -earn a little for their own support, she decided to teach them the art -of lacemaking, which had been carried on for centuries in the convents -of Italy. She took some of her own lace, examined the process by which -it had been made, unraveled the threads one by one, and put them back -again over and over again until she at last succeeded in mastering the -intricacies of the construction of needle-point. She next selected the -brightest and most deft-fingered children and women in the convent and -taught each separately what she herself had learned. Most of the women -and girls displayed an aptitude for the work, and after the necessities -of the occasion were over and the emergency passed, she had about her -many well-trained lacemakers. Some of them developed considerable -ingenuity and taste, inventing new designs and easier methods of -handling the needle. Other convents throughout Ireland imitated the nuns -of Youghal, and the same lace is now made in every part of the island. - -Limerick lace is of two kinds, known as the "tambour" and "run lace." -"Tambour" is made on net and the pattern is formed by working with a -tambour needle in white or colored thread. "Run lace" is made with an -ordinary needle and a more open stitch. Limerick lace is in disfavor at -present, owing to the large amount of miserable specimens that have been -hawked about the streets of Limerick and forced upon the London markets. - -Carrickmacross lace has been made in the neighborhood of that town, in -County Monaghan, since the year 1820, when it was brought from Florence -by Mrs. Grey-Porter, wife of the rector of the parish church, and -introduced among the peasant women as a means of earning a livelihood. -It is made upon a foundation of net. There are two varieties. In -appliqué the pattern is traced out on fine muslin and sewed down round -the edges to the net. So far it is not strictly a lace, but rather a -sort of embroidery or net. Open spaces, however, are generally provided -for, which leaves the effect and which are filled with lace stitches -like those of flat point. In Carrickmacross guipure, much the same -procedure as in appliqué is adopted, only that instead of the foundation -being allowed to remain it is ultimately cut away, the figures of the -pattern, which, as in appliqué, are wrought on muslin, being joined to -each other by lace stitches known as "brides." A very interesting and -striking development of Carrickmacross lace is found in a combination of -appliqué and guipure, the main design being appliqué, while the panels -of guipure are introduced into it. - -A little to the northward of Cork is the famous Trappist Monastery of -Mount Mellery. It was founded here about thirty years ago upon the site -of an ancient monastery by Cistercian monks who were expelled from -France. They have about seven hundred acres of rich woodland, fertile -pastures, and vegetable gardens, with large and comfortable buildings -which they erected with their own hands. They maintain two schools, one -free for poor children, and another for boarding pupils whose parents -pay moderate fees for the instruction. There is a guesthouse in -connection with the monastery, where all travelers are welcome to -shelter, saint and sinner, Catholic and Protestant, Jew and Gentile, and -no questions asked and no bills presented. Any person can have a bed -with clean, sweet linen and a hard but comfortable mattress, coffee and -rolls for breakfast, cold meat and milk for luncheon, soup and a roast -and a tart or pie for dinner, without charge, although there is a box at -the door where the guest at his departure is expected to drop a coin, -large or small according to his means and disposition. There are limited -accommodations for women, which are sparsely but comfortably furnished, -and, what is more important, as clean as a Danish dairy--an unusual -condition for Ireland. - -There are seventy monks who dress in white and maintain perpetual -silence, living entirely upon a vegetable diet with water and skimmed -milk as their only drink. About twenty lay brothers, dressed in brown, -do the heavy labor and the menial work about the place. The white monks -rise at two o'clock in the morning and spend four hours in the chapel in -silent devotion. Then they take a light meal and go to their work in the -fields, the gardens, or the schoolroom, where the rule of silence is -relaxed only enough to permit of imparting instruction. At six o'clock -they have dinner, consisting of vegetable soup, boiled vegetables, -bread, and skimmed milk, after which they spend two hours at prayer in -the chapel, and retire at nine. This is the only Trappist community in -Ireland, but there are two in the United States. - -There has been very little trouble with the landlords in County Cork. -Perhaps that is due to a considerable degree to the fact that the soil -is rich and the harvests are good, and because the farmers are able to -get a satisfactory return for their labor and their money. Nearly all -the large estates are being broken up, however, and have been purchased -by the tenants under the Act of 1903. Very soon County Cork and all the -southern section of Ireland will be owned by the men who till the soil. -Each farmer will have his own permanent home. - - - - - XXV - - GLENGARIFF, THE LOVELIEST SPOT IN IRELAND - - -It isn't far across the southern counties of Ireland and from Cork to -Glengariff, the loveliest place in the United Kingdom and one of the -loveliest spots on earth, only seventy-five miles. There are two routes. -You can go by rail to the little old-fashioned town of Bantry at the -head of Bantry Bay, which is the rendezvous of the British fleet and the -place of their regular annual maneuvers, and from there by coach around -the shore of the bay or by a little steamer across its matchless blue -waters; or you can take the more interesting and picturesque route by -rail as far as Macroom, and then by coach or carriage over the -mountains, through the most picturesque canyon in Ireland and up and -down the mountain sides. Glengariff is 'way down in the southwesternmost -corner of Ireland, and as a gentleman said the other day in describing -its location: "If you go jist one step further, there'll not be a dry -spot to rist yer foot on till you enter the harbor of New York, bedad, -or maybe Boston." - -The best route in every respect and one of the most interesting journeys -that can be found anywhere is by way of Macroom, and it is such a -favorite with tourists that during the summer season there is an almost -continuous procession that way. The arrangements for taking care of -travelers are perfect, and all you have to do is to buy your tickets and -let the attendant look after the rest. The railroad carries you about -thirty miles, an hour's ride from Cork, and there is a good deal of -interest to be seen from the car windows on the way. The conductor -sticks his head in the window every now and then and warns the -passengers what to look out for. There is a castle on one side or a -ruined abbey on the other or some sign of the devastation committed by -Cromwell and his Covenanters when they were trying to convert the Irish -to Protestantism, two or three centuries ago. - -I became very skeptical about the Cromwellian ruins. Every time we came -across an abandoned limekiln or the roofless walls of some cabin from -which a family has been evicted and burned out, they told us that the -damage was done by Cromwell's soldiers. Kate Douglas Wiggin satirizes -that situation in "Penelope's Irish Experiences" by having her party -occupy rooms in Irish hotels where Cromwell, in the confusion of his -departure, forgot to sweep under the bed. - -You can't convert people from one religion to another by the use of the -sword, by burning houses and sacking monasteries, and murdering innocent -women and children. That has been clearly demonstrated by the Duke of -Alva in the Netherlands, by Philip II. in Spain, and by Cromwell in -Ireland. It partially restores one's cheerfulness to be able to realize -that such means of evangelization have been abandoned. - -There are ruined castles and monasteries all the way from Cork to -Glengariff, and nature has done her best to hide the shame and cruelty -that are associated with them by the glorious mantles of ivy which cover -their crumbling walls. Kilcrea Abbey, founded by Cormac MacCarthy, the -king of this country in 1465, for the Franciscan friars, was the burial -place of the MacCarthy family, the owners of Blarney Castle for two -centuries or more. Several of the tombs are well preserved. A little -farther along, at Crookstown, is another of the MacCarthy strongholds -called Castlemore, and still farther are the ruins of Lissardagh and -Clodagh, where they kept their forces and received the tribute of their -dependents as they did at Blarney Castle, near Cork. Those ancient kings -had strings of castles through their territories, each one of them in -charge of a seneschal, who kept the place with a guard of retainers and -received tribute from the peasant farmers of the surrounding country as -payment for protection and blackmail. Within the thick walls the loot -they brought from battle was stored; their prisoners were held for -ransom, and there they entertained their allies and their friends, -reveling for days and nights together in the spacious halls. The -MacCarthys were energetic citizens and ruled the south shore of Ireland -with a despotism that had no parallel in Ireland at the time. But they -were as generous to their friends as they were vindictive to their foes. - -This country used to abound in fairies, gnomes, koboles, pixies, and all -kinds of queer little people, but they are all gone now. Our jarvey, as -the driver of a jaunting car is called, insists that they have emigrated -to America, but when I asked him where we could find them over there, he -confessed that he didn't know. He had no acquaintance with the place. - -There are all kinds of fairies, or rather there used to be in Ireland, -friendly and unfriendly, good and bad, and they formerly appeared in a -great diversity of form and for a variety of purposes, but they are -seldom seen nowadays, even among the ivy-draped ruins of the castles and -among the moss-covered rocks where they used to make their homes. - -Sidheog is a friendly fairy and Sidhean and Sheeaun are places where -fairies live. Certain hills and forests which were thickly peopled with -fairies in the early days can be identified by such names as Shean, -Sheaun, and similar variations of the terms that are applied to haunted -hills. There are "good people" and "bad people" who invade the privacy -of those who dwell in mountain cottages and bring them blessings or -treat them badly, as the case may be. At one time they were numerous up -in these woods. The best known fairy, however, the busiest of them all, -and an odd mixture of merriment, mischief, and malignity, is "Pooka," -who is known in England, in Germany, and other places under the name of -"Puck." Shakespeare describes him as "a merry wanderer of the night," -who boasts that he can "put a girdle round about the earth in forty -minutes." This capricious goblin is known to every child in the -mountains, and stories are told of him in every cabin. Carrig-Peeka, the -Pooka's home in a great rock, can be seen two miles west of Macroom. It -overhangs the Sullane River near the ruins of one of the MacCarthy -castles. This rock is well known as the place where Daniel O'Rourke -started on his celebrated voyage to the moon on the back of an eagle, -and for generations Pooka made it his headquarters and used to play all -kinds of pranks upon the peasants in that neighborhood. - -There is a hideous kind of hobgoblin called a dullaghan who can take off -and put on his head at will; in fact, people generally see him with that -useful member under his arm or absent altogether, and on such an -occasion it is well to pass on as quietly as possible without disturbing -him. Sometimes giddy and frivolous bands of dullaghans have been seen in -graveyards at midnight amusing themselves by flinging their heads at one -another and kicking them about like footballs. Down in this neighborhood -there is a little lake called Lough Gillagancan, which means "the Lake -of the Headless Man," because they are in the habit of haunting it -during the long winter nights and playing their ridiculous games there. - -Cleena is the queen of the fairies, and once exercised a powerful spell -over the peasants around Glengariff, but she is losing her influence. -The national school board is opposed to her. The teachers have disputed -her power and authority with such persistence that she cannot exercise -them among the present generation as she did among those of the past. It -is only among the schoolless communities, far back in the rocky glens -along the seashore, where the people cannot read or write and do not -have candles to illuminate their lonely cabins during the long winter -nights, that she is remembered at all. In more thickly settled parts of -the country where the national schools stand at three-mile intervals, -the children even scoff at her and ridicule her and say that she may -play all the pranks she likes with them and welcome. Cleena has been a -favorite of the Irish poets for ages, and appears in many old-fashioned -love stories. - - "God grant 't is not Cleena, the queen that pursues me; - While I dream of dark groves and O'Donavan's daughter." - -Cleena often did a kindly act, and when Dooling O'Hartigan, the bosom -friend of Murrough, the eldest son and heir apparent of Brian Boru, was -on his way to the battle of Clontarf, she met him and tried to persuade -him to stay out of the fight. But nothing could induce him to abandon -his friends in such an emergency, particularly as the aged king had -given Murrough the command of the army that day. Having failed to -persuade him, Cleena placed a magic cloak around O'Hartigan and warned -him solemnly that he would certainly be slain if he threw it off. He -fought fiercely all day by the side of his friend and made fearful havoc -among the Danes. The field was strewn with the bodies of the men he -slew, and Murrough, observing the slaughter, but being unable to -recognize the cause of it, cried out: - -"I hear the blows of O'Hartigan, but I cannot see him!" - -In order to console and encourage his friend, O'Hartigan threw off the -cloak that made him invisible. The moment he stood unprotected an arrow -from the bow of a Dane smote him in the temple, and he died for -neglecting Cleena's words of warning. - -It is only occasionally that the fairies interfere with people nowadays. -Then it is to make trouble for innocent men who are out later than they -should be and get bewildered in their brains or suffer other lapses that -they are not responsible for. A friend of mine told an amusing story of -his coachman, who frequently suffered from the mischievousness of a -fairy not long ago, and explained in the morning: - -"If yer honor will belave me, it's the most mystarious thing that ever -happened to a mortal man. I was coming p'aceably home along the roadside -when I saw the strangest sight that mortal eyes ever looked upon, an' -the ground seemed to go away from me and funny little cr'atures were -dancing from one side of the road to the other. Thin all at once I fell -down, and I didn't know another thing until I picked myself up from out -of the ditch in the morning. - -"Dhrinking, was it, ye say; divil a bit did I taste a drop at all, at -all, that day, barring a few glasses I had wid me frinds on the way -home." - -Macroom is a pretty village with a castle, of which Admiral Penn, father -of the founder of Pennsylvania, was once in command, and where William -Penn is said to have been born. The venerable old pile was built -originally in the time of King John, more than seven hundred years ago, -has been burned down no less than four times, and was besieged and -plundered in the wars of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries again -and again. It now belongs to Lord Ardilaun, one of the sons of Benjamin -Guinness, the greatest brewer in the world, who has erected a beautiful -modern residence near by and occasionally occupies it. Lord Ardilaun -owns so many castles that he would find it difficult to live in all of -them the same year. He would be kept moving about like a commercial -traveler. He has a beautiful estate on one side of Glengariff and a -shooting lodge on the other, and his favorite residence is a stately -château near Muckross Abbey on the shores of the Lakes of Killarney. He -has a shooting lodge at Ashford, and another at Ross Hill in Central -Ireland, a fishing lodge at Kylemon Pass in Connemara, and city -residences on Stephens Green, Dublin, and at No. 11 Carleton House -Terrace, London. - -The traveler bound for Glengariff changes from the railway train to an -open coach at the railway station of Macroom. The coach is built for -mountain travel, strong and heavy, and the seats, which extend from side -to side, accommodate four people of ordinary dimensions. The handbags -are stowed away under the seats and in a cavern which opens from the -rear. A couple of steamer trunks can be taken along also. There is a -roof to the stage, which is very much needed to keep off the rain, and -it can be rolled up into a ridge in the middle of the supporting hoops -in the sunshine. - -[Illustration: LAKE GOUGANE-BARRA, COUNTY CORK] - -The driver of a stage in Ireland doesn't flourish and crack his whip -like the gentlemen who pursue that line of business in Montana and -Colorado. He is usually a talkative chap, and tells interesting stories -with a deep, rich brogue and quaint wit that is charming, but he drives -quietly through the villages and pulls up at his destination as -modestly as if he were on a cart instead of a coach full of tourists. In -the Rocky Mountains the stage driver always "shows off" at the end of -his journey, but he never tries to do anything of that sort in Ireland. - -The road follows along the banks of the Sullane River until it reaches a -string of lakes called Inchageela, which are dotted with lovely little -islands, and are said to be full of fish. There is not a tree to be -seen, but the ground is covered with a rich, thick, velvet turf, and -myriads of wild flowers of all colors and all varieties--a crazy quilt -of bloom. No one ever imagined that there could be so many wild flowers -or such beautiful ones. - -The little town of Inchageela is the lunch station, where we were served -with a wholesome meal of roast mutton, potatoes, lettuce, and gooseberry -tart that tasted as good as anything I ever had at the Waldorf, and the -buxom, red-faced landlady gave us a hearty, cordial blessing as we -climbed back into our seats to continue the journey. We passed several -ruined castles, some of them near the roadside and the others -picturesquely situated on the mountain slopes among the rocks. They all -once belonged to the MacCarthys, who were kings in this country until -they lost their power by foolish fighting, and to-day I have been -assured that not one foot of sod in the County of Cork or in the County -of Kerry is owned by a man of that name or clan. - -After a while we turned from the main road at a little village called -Carrinacurrah, which is hardly as big as its name, and slowly climbed a -picturesque hill to the mystic lake of Gougane-Barra, and stopped to -rest the horses and ourselves at a neatly kept inn. As it was a holiday, -all the people in the neighborhood were gathered at Cronin's Inn when -the two coachloads of passengers drove in from Macroom, and several of -them accompanied us across to Gougane Island and told us the history of -that sacred place. There was an old man with bog-oak walking sticks to -sell, and boys with post cards, for there isn't a spot in Ireland that -hasn't been photographed and transferred to a post card in hideous -colors. Mr. Benjamin Shorten, a man of importance in the community, had -hailed the coach when it passed his house, and was therefore not only an -entertainer but a fellow-passenger of the strangers within his gate. And -it was a strange story that he told us of the restoration of the ruins -and the erection, by Mr. John R. Walsh of Chicago, in memory of his -parents, of the little shrine on the site of St. Fin-Barre's oratory -which had been blessed by St. Patrick fourteen hundred years ago. - -Mr. Walsh could not have chosen a more beautiful or a more appropriate -place for a memorial to his parents, and the work has been well done. It -is a sacred as well as a most romantic spot. Gougane-Barra is what they -call a "tarn," a jagged glen in the mountains nearly a mile long and -about a quarter of a mile wide, almost entirely filled with water like a -Norwegian fiord and entirely inclosed with walls of rock rising to a -height of nearly eighteen hundred feet. The principal peaks are called -Conicar (1,886 feet), Bealick (1,762 feet), and Foilasteokeen (1,698 -feet). The cliffs cast a deep shadow over the water and add to the -solemnity and mystery with which the place has been invested from its -association with the patron saint of the city of Cork and one of the -earliest apostles in Ireland. After heavy rains each mountain side -becomes a foaming cataract, and the natives say that the sound of the -water pouring down the rocks may be heard for miles. The lake is very -deep and is the source of the River Lee, which runs sixty-five miles -from here to the Bay of Cork. - -The island is approached by a narrow, artificial causeway, at the head -of which is an arched tomb built into the side of the mountain, in which -Father Mahoney, a recluse, was buried in 1728. He was the last of the -monks to live in the little abbey. He is regarded by the peasants as -next to St. Fin-Barre in holiness, and Fin-Barre is ranked next to St. -Patrick, only a little below him in their veneration. When the old women -passed Father Mahoney's tomb they knelt and kissed it and said their -prayers. - -[Illustration: CHAPEL ERECTED BY MR. JOHN R. WALSH OF CHICAGO ON THE -ISLAND OF GOUGANE-BARRA] - -The ruins of St. Fin-Barre's hermitage, which has been carefully -restored, consist of a quadrangle of stone about thirty-six feet square, -and there are eight cells with arched entrances in which the monks used -to live. Over the entrance to each cell are modern plaster casts of the -stations of the cross, and in the center, upon a pyramid of five steps, -a plain wooden cross has been erected. - -The little chapel erected by Mr. Walsh upon the foundation of St. -Fin-Barre's Oratory is thirty-six feet long by fourteen feet broad with -a simple little altar and an altar rail. The remainder of the space is -filled with wooden seats. There is no organ or other musical instrument, -and the services that are held there every third Sunday in the month by -an itinerant priest are of the simplest order. But the celebration of -the anniversary of the saint on the 24th of September brings the -peasants from all the country around and is attended with great -solemnity. The people carry their rations with them, and camp upon the -shore of the lake and along the roadway that leads down from the tarn. -When we were there in June the entire island was a mass of rhododendrons -in the fullness of their purple glory. If you searched the world over -you could not find a more beautiful abode for a saint in peace and -retirement. It has been the theme of many poems, and a native bard has -painted with graphic lines the scene that is hallowed by so many pious -associations and surrounded with so much natural beauty. - -It is one of the holiest places in Ireland, and the consecrated waters -of a spring called St. Fin-Barre's Well, which has been carefully walled -in, have the power to heal all kinds of diseases except those that have -been caused by dissipation. At the annual festival of St. Fin-Barre the -peasants bring their sick children and even their ailing animals to be -cured. And the neighboring bushes that surround the well and the wooden -crosses that have been erected there in recognition of relief are hung -with votive offerings. A penitent who comes to be cleansed of his sins -may find full instructions engraven upon a large slab of brown stone. It -is said to be more than two hundred years old, but records the good -deeds of Rev. Dennis Mahoney, who died in 1728. It is necessary to say -five "aves" and five "paters" at the first station of the cross within -the ruins, and add five more at each as they are passed, making forty -"aves" and forty "paters" at the last cell. - -Of course, there is a legend connected with the well--there always -is--and in this case St. Patrick, after banishing the reptiles from the -country, overlooked one hideous snake. It crawled into the Well of -Gougane to escape him, and it created serious depredation in the -surrounding country, coming out at night to attack the flocks of sheep -and the herds of goats and cattle, until St. Patrick came here and drove -it out by sprinkling the well with holy water. "The ould enemy" vanished -and has never since ventured to leave his loathsome slime upon the green -banks of the island. In order to prevent his return St. Patrick sent St. -Fin-Barre here to watch the well and exterminate the monster if it came -again. But it has not reappeared, and as a token of gratitude St. -Fin-Barre erected the Cathedral of Cork and founded a great monastery -beside it, leaving several devoted priests here in his hermitage to keep -watch of things. - -The driver gave us an hour to see this lovely and sacred place, and then -we returned to the main road, resumed our journey, and soon entered the -Pass of Keimaneigh, which divides these savage mountains in twain and -permits people to pass from the former kingdom of the MacCarthy clan to -that of the outlawed O'Sullivans. The mountains were split by some -terrible cataclysm ages ago, but Nature has done what she could to heal -the wound. The almost perpendicular walls were clothed with wild ivy, -arbutus, hawthorn, laburnum, rhododendron, and other trees and shrubs, -which were glorious in color and light up the gloom of the gorge with -wonderful beauty. We have many grander canyons in the Rocky Mountains, -and several of the fiords on the Norwegian coast are grander and -inclosed by loftier peaks and more precipitous walls, but none of them -that I have seen are anywhere near as beautiful. - -[Illustration: THE PASS OF KEIMANEIGH THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS BETWEEN CORK -AND GLENGARIFF] - -Nor do I remember a panorama where the fiercer and the gentler moods -of nature are expressed in such striking contrast. The eagles and hawks -that soar in the narrow skyline, directly above our heads, and encircle -the rugged and irregular peaks that rise on either side, look down upon -an exhibition of wild flowers that was never surpassed, and the colors -seem to be more brilliant than elsewhere. - -People always ask, How did they come there?--these blotches of scarlet -and purple and pink and blue and gold against the dark gray surface of -the rock. The wind was the landscape gardener here, and a wonderful -artist he is. The dust that gradually accumulated in the crevices and -scars of this mountain wall was carried, storm by storm, from some dry -spot, upon the wings of the wind. And the same messenger carried the -seeds, perhaps for many miles, and dropped them in the nest that he had -already provided, where the sun and the rain could reach them and they -could germinate and their souls could awaken. The germs of life that lay -hidden in their tiny cells then reached out for air and began to grow -and bloom and illuminate this stern and gloomy canyon with their smiles. -As the journey continues the gorge grows wilder, the walls higher, and -the vegetation less, except in the turf beside the roadway, where the -violet, the forget-me-not, the belated shamrock, and that other modest -little flower called "London Pride," sing a silent song of praise to -Heaven. - -They call Glengariff "the Madeira of Great Britain," because its climate -varies only a few degrees, winter and summer, and is about the same as -that of the Madeira Islands, without a trace of frost or snow except up -among the rugged mountains that protect it from the cold winds and make -it an ideal resort for those who seek health, rest, or solitude. The -name signifies "a rough glen," and that describes it exactly--a deep -cleft in the mountains, a gash which some irresistible glacier made ages -ago in the rugged rocks, about three miles long and a quarter of a mile -wide, which terminates upon an exquisite little sheet of water, a branch -of the Bay of Bantry, on the far southwestern coast of Ireland. The glen -is filled with wonderful trees and wonderful flowers, which seem to -bloom perennially. The surrounding mountains are of the wildest -description, being naked moorlands covered with heather and gorse and -huge gray bowlders and peaks which project into the air. Among them, it -is said, there are no less than 365 little lakes, that number having -suggested to the pious peasants, who attribute everything to apostolic -interposition, that some holy saint prayed effectually for a separate -one to supply water for each day of the year. The rocks reach far away -to the westward and down into the cold blue of an uneasy ocean, which -beats impetuously upon the outer walls, but the water is seldom -disturbed by more than a ripple within the bay. For a combination of -ocean, mountains, lakes, rocks, waterfalls, forests, and flowers I have -never seen the like, and any one can easily understand why Glengariff is -called the most beautiful spot in Ireland. - -The town of Glengariff is composed of fourteen houses, six saloons, a -post office, a vine-covered headquarters for the constabulary, which -looks altogether too picturesque and beautiful for such a practical -purpose, a Catholic church, brand new and built with money from America, -an old church where the Catholics formerly worshiped, now used as a -school for teaching lace making, a pretty little Church of Ireland -chapel, an ivy-clad rectory adjoining, and several comfortable hotels. -There are four hundred inhabitants in the parish, mostly farmers, -scattered within the glen and upon the surrounding rocks. They are -mostly Harringtons, Sullivans, Caseys, and O'Sheas, and are nearly all -related. All the population are Roman Catholics, except twelve families -who belong to the Church of Ireland and are ministered to by the Rev. -Mr. Harvey, who is paid a salary of £200 a year and is given a -picturesque old manse in the midst of one of the loveliest gardens and -groves you can imagine. - -Eccles Hotel has been famous for more than a century. You will find a -flattering account of it in Mrs. Hall's book on Ireland, published in -the '50s. And, by the way, that work contains a charming description of -the country, although so much in detail that it fills three ponderous -volumes that weigh four or five pounds each. There have been many -changes since the book was written, but they concern only the people and -their customs. Its historical references, its legends, and descriptions -of scenery hold good to-day. - -The hotel, not the book, is a rambling, irregular structure with many -gables and many chimneys, and is almost completely covered with a -lustrous robe of English ivy. It sits at the foot of the glen where the -rocks and the ocean meet and the prospect from the front windows is -unsurpassed. The bay is enclosed like a wall with mighty mountains. -Titanic rocks have rolled down into the water in some great cataclysm -and now lie in picturesque shapes, here and there, as a tasteful artist -would have arranged them, clad in vivid green. The outlines of the bay -are irregular. Little arms of water reach up among the rocks that -inclose it, and, when the tide goes out, it discloses deep beds of -wondrous seaweed, curious vegetable and animal forms that Nature in her -fantastic moods has designed in her studio under the waters of the sea. -In the foreground at the right is a landing place for the little steamer -that comes over from Bantry twice a day, and beyond it, rising from a -rocky eminence, are the ruins of an ancient castle with a tower intact -that was once a stronghold of the O'Sullivans, when they were kings in -these parts. Now it belongs to the estate of the late Earl of Bantry. - -On the other side of the bay a long point of land protrudes across the -horizon, and there it was that the French troops intended to land under -Wolfe Tone and General Hoche on Dec. 26, 1796. There were 17 ships of -the line, 13 frigates, 5 corvettes, 2 gunboats, and 6 transports, with -about 14,000 men and 45,000 stands of arms, and it was expected that the -news of their landing would be the signal for an uprising of the Irish -people. Simon White, who lived near the point where the landing was to -be made, was a man of quick movements and energy, and as soon as the -fleet was sighted he saddled his horse and rode direct to -Cork--sixty-five miles--in half a dozen hours to notify the military -commander and other authorities of the invasion. For that the king made -him the Earl of Bantry and gave him a strip of land around the bay -twenty-two miles on one side and twenty-two miles on the other, -stretching back into the mountains an average of six miles. The title -has lasted through three generations, but has expired because the third -Earl of Bantry left no son to wear it when he died a few years ago. - -Providence intervened, however, on the side of the English, and averted -what might have been a disastrous struggle with France, with Ireland as -the battlefield, as well as a civil war for the overthrow of British -authority. A storm came up and dispersed the fleet. When the wind -subsided, a dense fog overspread Bantry Bay and the ocean. When the air -cleared the ships were so scattered that each sailed away on its own -account during the next fortnight, and one by one they returned to the -harbors of France. General Hoche, in the _Fraternitie_, finally reached -Rochelle, after several narrow escapes, with his ship in a sinking -condition. Several of the largest ships went upon the rocks, and about -eighteen hundred sailors and soldiers perished. No Frenchman trod upon -Irish soil with the exception of a lieutenant and seven seamen, who were -sent out in a small boat from one of the ships during the fog to -reconnoiter, and, running aground, were captured by James O'Sullivan. - -Bantry Bay is a magnificent inlet twenty-one miles long, and with an -average breadth of four miles and an average depth of sixty fathoms, -without a shoal or sandbank or any other peril to navigation. It is -completely sheltered from the weather and is considered the finest -harbor in Ireland. It is the rendezvous of the British North Atlantic -fleet and the fleet of the channel, which come here regularly to -practice maneuvers, to correct their compasses and regulate their range -finders and do light repairs. The only town on the bay is a village of -the same name, which has been described as a seaport without trade, a -harbor without shipping, and a fishery without a market. There is a -convent, a monastery, and a factory for the manufacture of Irish tweeds. - -[Illustration: GLENGARIFF BRIDGE] - -Adjoining the village is Bantry House, a stately mansion surrounded -by a beautiful lawn and grove, which was the residence of the late Earl -of Bantry, and was inherited by his nephew, Leigh White. Another nephew, -Simon White, occupies the ancient Glengariff Castle, which is nearer the -head of the bay--a large and gloomy-looking structure almost entirely -hidden by the surrounding trees. Thirty-one thousand acres of land -around the bay was inherited by these two young men, but it is very poor -land. Three-fourths of it is bare rock, and the entire population upon -their holdings is only about four hundred men, women, and children. A -daughter of the late Earl of Bantry married Lord Ardilaun, who was -Arthur Edward Guinness, a son of the great brewer of Dublin and probably -the richest man in Ireland. The hotel is inclosed in a beautiful hedge -of fuchsias, which flourish in this climate, and are commonly used for -hedges. The grounds of the hotel extend over two hundred and fifty -acres, mostly dense forest, with a beautiful garden of twelve acres or -more. All the vegetables, poultry, eggs, and other produce are raised on -the place, and the milk and cream and butter come from a private herd of -cows, which is a great luxury. - -There is splendid fishing, both in the bay and in two small lakes, one -hour's walk from the hotel, also boating, swimming, and any number of -beautiful walks and drives through the woods and along the mountain -roads. The only antiquity in the immediate neighborhood is a picturesque -ruin called Cromwell's bridge. While the grim old Covenanter was passing -up the glen with an escort to visit the O'Sullivans, citizens of -Glengariff who had heard of the devastation he had created elsewhere -tore down a bridge over a mountain gorge, hoping that it would turn him -back. But after much trouble he and his men succeeded in crossing the -canyon into the village, and there he summoned the inhabitants and told -them that if they did not restore the bridge by the time he returned -from his visit he would hang a man for every hour's delay. The bridge -was ready for him, "fur they knew the auld villain would kape his -word." - -The surrounding country is sparsely settled by a hardy, stubborn race, -who fish in the winter and farm in the summer, like the people who live -on the bleak New England coast. The children herd cattle, sheep, and -goats upon the mountain sides; the pigs and the poultry share the -ancient stone hovels occupied by their owners; the women cultivate a -little spot of soil wherever they can find it in the crevices among the -rocks, raising a few potatoes and cabbages, and look after the chickens -and the babies. Scattered over the mountain side and reached by steep -but perfect roads, are the roofless walls of what once were the homes of -neighbors who have emigrated to America. The fate of those who remained -seemed hopeless until recently, but the benevolent purposes of the -government are brightening the lives and improving the condition of many -of them. At Glengariff I got my first chance to observe the work of the -Congested Districts Board through which the government is trying to -relieve the distress of the poor and make life worth living for those -wretched but courageous souls who dwell always in the mists of the -mountains and among the moorlands and the peat bogs on the west coast of -Ireland. They are the poorest, the least nourished, and the most -helpless portion of the population. They are scattered widely. The -arable soil is so scarce that they cannot live in communities and -survive. Here and there among the rocks, where the kindly winds have -dropped grains of earth during the ages, they are cultivating little -patches of potatoes and cabbage. They follow a few cows and goats that -nibble at the blades of grass that grow in the cracks of the rock and -keep a few chickens, which share with them the roof shelter of a leaky, -straw-thatched cabin built of rough stone and with a mud floor. - -The cabins are as comfortless as one can imagine, but they are no worse -than thousands that may be found in our southern States, in the -mountains of Tennessee, Kentucky, North Carolina, and Virginia. -Thousands of "crackers" in Georgia have no better homes and no more -consolations in life, but their cabins are more neatly kept and are not -situated among such filthy and loathsome surroundings as those of the -poor "bog-trotters" of Ireland. - -The interior of the cabins is quite as repulsive as the exterior. The -chickens run in and out with the children, and they "kape the pig in the -parlor" because that is the only room in the house and there is no other -pen. The inevitable baby--you never enter a cabin without finding -one--is always in its mother's arms and another is generally clinging to -her skirts, while two or three more are playing in the filth around the -door. There is only one room, where they all sleep, the elder ones upon -rough benches, covered with pallets of straw, and the younger ones on -the floor--grandparents, parents, children, pigs, and chickens--young -and old, both sexes, lying side by side, with whatever covering their -scanty earnings enable them to provide. There are no sheets or -mattresses; no pillows, only comfortables that have been used for -generations, and tattered blankets that are never washed. There is no -furniture but a table and two or three stools. There are shelves, and a -few nails and hooks driven into the walls. There is no stove, but a peat -fire under the chimney where the mother cooks in pans and kettles when -the weather is stormy and uses a rock outside for a kitchen when it -doesn't rain or blow. There are few dishes, mostly broken china, and the -covers of tin cans. The walls are windowless; there is no light but that -which comes through the door, and during the long winter nights, when, -in this latitude, it becomes dark at four o'clock, the family hibernate -in the darkness because candles are beyond their means and burning peat -gives no light. You can understand why so many of these poor wretches -lose their wits. The insane asylums of Ireland are filled with -unfortunates from this coast, most of them are hereditary and chronic -cases caused by melancholia, nervousness, and starvation. I have been -trying in vain to find out how they spend their time during the long -winter evenings, but have been unable to get any satisfactory -information on that point. - -Notwithstanding these conditions a stranger always receives a polite and -a cordial welcome and usually an invitation to come in and rest and -drink a cup of milk. There is no apology for poverty, or the appearance -of things; there is no obsequiousness and no insolence, but a dignified, -hearty handclasp at the coming and at the going and a cheerful -invitation to call again. The Children of the Mist are invariably well -behaved and polite. Although their clothes are ragged and their bodies -are filthy with dirt, they have the same manners you would expect among -the nobility. They are always obedient, deferential, and unselfish. They -are kind and attentive to their younger brothers and sisters, and show -perfect respect to their parents and elders. We have seen them in the -cabins, in the fields, and in the schools. I have asked everybody where -they get their manners, and who teaches them deportment in this barren -wilderness of filth and bad smells. I asked Miss Walshe, the medical -officer of the district, who goes from cabin to cabin as an angel of -healing; I asked Miss O'Donnell, who has charge of the lace school; I -asked the head constable at the police station; I asked the -school-teachers and others, and they all say that the politeness of the -Irish peasants, like their pride, is inborn and final proof that they -are the descendants of kings. This pride is a strange thing, and it is -most surprising. Every woman you find in a soiled and ragged dress in a -wretched cabin receives you as her equal and talks with dignity and -without restraint, and Mr. Duke, manager of the Eccles Hotel, told me -this morning of a mountain peasant whose raggedness aroused his -sympathy, but who would not accept a suit of clothes. - -Miss O'Donnell, the lace teacher, and Miss Walshe, the nurse, told us -that the pretty young women we saw in the lace school and the boys and -girls we saw in the national school, all come from such cabins as I have -described. Some of the blue-eyed, bare-footed urchins have complexions -that society belles would give their souls for, and long, beautiful -coal-black hair, yet they sleep on a mud floor with pigs and chickens, -and many of them walk three and four miles and back for the privilege of -attending school. With a little training these children make excellent -servants, faithful, obedient, and tactful, and almost without exception -they go to mass and confession regularly, and they have a high standard -of morals and a conscientious devotion to duty. Although it costs as -much to get married as it does to buy a ticket to America, there are no -unmarried people living together here; illegitimate births are extremely -rare and chastity is the commonest of virtues. - -There is no compulsory education law, but the priests drive the children -to school until they are fourteen and will not confirm them until they -have passed a certain grade. A gentle, soft-voiced woman in a rude cabin -in the mountain side told us the other day that her greatest trouble was -that her daughter had been kept from school by sickness and she was -afraid that the priest would not confirm her because she was so far -behind the other girls in her lessons. - -The same rule applies to the lace school which has been established by -the government through the Congested Districts Board in the old building -used by the Catholic church before the new one was erected. The -government pays a teacher and advances the material. The girls get the -price their lacework brings when sold in the shops of London or Dublin -or at the Eccles Hotel here at Glengariff. Miss O'Donnell tells me that -Mrs. Duke, the wife of the manager of the hotel, is their best sales -agent, and a stock of samples is always kept where the guests can see -them. Fifty-one girls are now attending the school, and some of them -walk seven miles and back every day. Father Harrington will not allow -them to attend the lace school until after they are confirmed, and it is -a great inducement to join the church because they are able to earn -forty, fifty, and some of them sixty pounds a year, which secures them -better clothes, better food, and some comforts for their families. Last -year this little school sold nearly three thousand dollars' worth of -lace, and the money was divided among fifty-one girls who made it. - -Every young person who can get money enough goes to America. And if it -were not for the money they send back here many of their parents and -younger brothers and sisters would starve. A gentleman who handles the -postal orders in one of the most forlorn and wretched villages of -Ireland told me that the Christmas gifts of money that came from America -kept many a family in food during the winter. It is the ambition of -every young man and woman to go to the United States, and only the lack -of steamship fare keeps them in Ireland. A sturdy lad of eighteen who -guided us across the moor to the roadway this morning told me -confidentially that he was going to Arizona as soon as his uncle, who -was doing very well out there, was able to send him the price. He asked -many questions about that part of the country. His uncle is working in a -gold mine near Tombstone and is "earning more than a pound a day, -steady, six days in the week, and they pay him double wages if he works -on Sunday." To a lad whose life is so barren and whose horizon is so -narrow and who sees his father and his neighbors trying to wrest a -scanty sustenance partly from the sea and partly from the land, and who -scarcely catch enough fish or raise enough potatoes to feed the mouths -of their own families, a pound a day looks like the income of an earl. - -The Catholic church at Glengariff is a brand new building of stone, and -looks large enough for ten times the population of this parish, which -has only about four hundred souls, men, women, and children. It was -built with American money raised by Father Brown, the late priest, who -went to Brooklyn, Boston, and several other cities of the United States, -hunted up the relatives of the people who live here and those who went -from these parts, and obtained £3,000. He was a good man and took a -great interest in the temporal as well as the spiritual welfare of his -people. Since his death Father Harrington has succeeded him and serves -four churches in a radius of seventeen miles. - -We attended mass on Sunday. The church was crowded. All the aisles were -filled with kneeling worshipers, up to the very feet of the altar and in -the vestibule, or the steps, and around outside were forty or fifty men -and women kneeling reverently upon the sod, although they couldn't hear -the voice of the priest. One of the men told me that he believed every -person in the parish was present and that they always came unless they -were too ill to move, that no storm could stop them. As a rule they came -from mountain cabins five and six miles away, in carts and on foot, and -some of them carried children in their arms the entire distance. -Notwithstanding their poverty they were better dressed than the working -people of Dublin. Their clothes were neat and well brushed and mended. -However ragged the garments they wear on week days may be, they always -have a decent suit to wear to the house of God. The solemnity of the -service was very impressive. To these people the church is the gate of -heaven. Its decorations and ceremonies appeal to their imagination, to -their senses of color and sound, and the mystic rites sink into their -souls. - -Although there are six saloons for a parish of four hundred people the -chief constable tells me there is very little drinking or disorder, and -practically no crime. He hasn't had a case of robbery for a year, and -except upon convivial occasions like weddings and wakes the people are -very orderly. Most of the saloons, he tells me, sell very little liquor, -and some of their licenses run back for years, being renewed annually to -the same family for generations. A liquor license in Ireland cannot be -taken away except for serious reasons, as long as the annual fee is -paid. They can be sold or transferred, but if they lapse they are -cancelled. - -In a neat stone cottage, surrounded by a well kept garden, among the -rocky mountain sides that overlook Bantry Bay, lives Lacia Walshe, -strong in body, strong in mind, and strong of purpose. She goes among -the wretched hovels in this locality attending maternity cases which -occur with amazing frequency, for the poorer the family the more -children is the rule. Miss Walshe does not give her entire attention to -midwifery, however, but treats every case of illness that comes within -her ken, from sore fingers to delirium tremens. That is not a figure of -speech, but an actual fact, for many a time at midnight has she been -called from her cottage to some miserable stone hovel in the mountains -to quiet with opiates a drunken ruffian who is haunted with reptiles and -raving in his dreams. Miss Walshe belongs to the poor, and is kept here -by a society with a name of fifteen words--"Lady Dudley's Scheme for the -Establishment of District Nurses in the Poorest Parts of Ireland." She -wears a badge the shape of a heart supporting a crown and in the center -is a shamrock leaf encircled with the words of Another One who went -about doing good as she does: "By love serve one another." - -The Countess of Dudley organized this work in 1903, beginning with two -nurses in Geesala and Bealadangan, County Galway. And they did so much -good that the number has now been increased to fifteen and they are -located at as many places in the poorest districts of Ireland, where -there are no physicians and where the people are too poor and the -population too scattered to support a doctor if one could be induced to -go there. - -The most distressing cases are those of confinement in cabins of only -one room, into which sometimes six, eight, and ten men, women, and -children are crowded, sleeping upon the floor. We went into a hut of -only one room, not more than twelve by fourteen feet in size, which is -occupied at night by nine persons,--father and mother, and grandmother -and six children, the oldest being eighteen years of age. We visited -another hut where there were eight children living, and were told of one -where there were seventeen, the births of most of them not more than a -year apart. To relieve conditions that may be easily imagined, Lady -Dudley's society with the long name was formed, and is now doing an -immense amount of good. Fifteen courageous and conscientious women are -comfortably placed in localities where their services are most needed, -at a cost of not more than a thousand dollars per year each, which -includes a bicycle, the most convenient means of locomotion they can -find, and an allowance for the hire of horses and jaunting cars when -they can be obtained. Because it is impossible to find lodging and -boarding places, it has been necessary to build cottages for the nurses, -and in some cases the demands upon them are so great that they are -allowed to employ assistance. They are equipped with surgical implements -and medical stores. Each of the nurses has taken a course in surgery -for emergency cases for they are frequently called upon to set bones and -dress wounds and even to perform operations. They are also furnished -with baby clothes, old linen, warm garments, stores of condensed milk -and beef extract, and other delicacies, and although Florence -Nightingale relieved thousands, her work did not compare in peril or -privation or fatigue with the almost daily experience of some of these -noble women. - - - - - XXVI - - THE LAKES OF KILLARNEY - - -The big stages that cross the mountains from Glengariff to Killarney are -chiefly loaded with Americans. It is singular how few other -nationalities are represented in the passenger traffic. The morning we -crossed there were four great vehicles carrying twenty-four persons -each, and every passenger, except one German bridal couple and a funny -acting Englishman, was from the United States. In our coach were -representatives from Cincinnati, Washington, St. Louis, Omaha, Texas, -and Minnesota, and I suppose other sections were equally represented -upon the three other coaches. Everybody who comes to Ireland takes this -ride because it offers the grandest scenery and one of the most -delightful experiences that tourists can enjoy. The coach begins to -climb slowly through the beautiful glen as soon as it leaves the Eccles -Hotel and continues climbing, up and up, for six miles through a dense -forest of glowing green, until it emerges into a wilderness of rock and -moorland, wild, picturesque, and almost entirely uninhabited. There is -very little vegetation, only a few streaks and bunches of grass that -grow along the cracks in the rocky surface, or in wind-carried soil that -has been caught in crevices. It is one of the wildest places you can -imagine, and as we go upward it becomes more so. The stage winds around -the brow of a mountain that seems a solid mass of stone, and as far as -one can see there is nothing else in the universe except a ribbon of -silver that winds at the foot of the slope where we left a river when we -began the journey. One has the sensation of awe that solitude often -produces, but it is disturbed by the chatter of the passengers. It is as -dreary and desolate and lonesome a place as the world contains. - -This is a comparatively new road. It was not built until 1838, but, like -all the roads of Ireland, it is solid and perfect and made to last -forever. The old road, and the principal line of communication between -the counties of Cork and Kerry for centuries, ran along the slope of -Hungry Mountain, so called because it is so devoid of vegetation that a -goat would have to take his luncheon if he went up there. And from there -it crossed to the mountain of the "Priest's Leap," which was named from -a legend that grows out of persecution of the Catholics in Cromwell's -time. The driver told it in this way: - -"Ye see, yer honor, in Cromwell's time there was a bounty of five pun' -fer the head of a wolf and five pun' for the head of a priest; an' a -dale of money was made o' both o' 'em. Well, bedad, one foine day a -priest was ridin' over the hill, whin the Tories caught sight o' him (we -called thim Tories in those days, the blaggards that did be huntin' o' -the priests), and them that purshued him were jist to lay their bloody -hands upon his blessed robe, whin he prayed to St. Fiachna. The blessed -saint heard him, and the donkey he was ridin' gave a lape siven miles -from one mountain to the ither, and yees can see the marks of the -baste's hoofs in the solid rock to this day." - -It takes but little encouragement and a minimum of material to supply -legends in this desolate and weird region, where every sound seems -unnatural and the trembling of a leaf causes the nerves to tingle. The -road resembles Brünig Pass in Switzerland more than any other that I -have seen, with the Lakes of Killarney corresponding to Lake Lucerne, -but it is less civilized and there are very few human habitations. - -The coach keeps climbing until we come to the grand divide, 1,233 feet -above the sea, where the passage from the "Kingdom of Cork" to the -"Kingdom of Kerry," as once they were called, is made through a tunnel -about six hundred feet long and two smaller ones that are cut through -the peak of the Esk Mountain. Until these tunnels were built travelers -were carried over the rocks to the other end of the road on the backs of -men. The country improves a little after the divide is crossed, and -there is a gradual descent into a rather good grazing country which -belongs to the Marquis of Lansdowne, but even here it is a good deal of -a job for a cow to make a living, and there is a proverb that "A Kerry -cow never looks up at a passing stranger for fear it will lose the -bite." - -The Earl of Lansdowne, who has been governor-general of Canada, -governor-general of India, lord of the treasury, secretary of war, -minister of foreign affairs, and has held other important offices in the -British cabinet, is one of the largest landowners in Ireland, although -he spends very little of his time there. He has a long list of Irish -titles inherited from his ancestors. In addition to being Earl Wycombe, -Earl of Kerry, and Earl of Shelburne, he is Viscount Clanmaurice, -Viscount Fitzmorris, Baron of Lixnaw, Baron of Dunkerron, and Viscount -of Calstone, and his eldest son is the Earl of Kerry. He traces his -lineage to Maurice Fitzgerald, who came over with Strongbow, who also -was the ancestor of the earls of Kildare and the Duke of Leinster. The -Lansdowne family have intermarried with the Leinsters, the MacCarthys, -the Desmonds, the Ormondes, and other of the great families of Ireland, -and, near or far, the marquis can claim relationship with nearly all the -Irish nobility. - -Occasionally we saw a stone cabin in the far distance, from which a pale -stream of smoke was arising, but until noonday, when we dropped into the -valley and approached the little village of Kenmare, there was scarcely -a human habitation. At Kenmare is an attractive hotel, at which a -bountiful lunch is served for two shillings, and a little time is given -the passengers to rest. Those who wish to do so can take a railway train -here and run over to Killarney in three-quarters of an hour, but they -will lose the most attractive part of the ride and some of the sublimest -scenery in Ireland. The stage commences to climb again shortly after we -leave Kenmare, and crawls along the mountain sides between the rocks and -the heather all the afternoon. This country was fought over again and -again ages ago. The mountain range was a sort of barrier between the -warlike clans of MacCarthy and O'Sullivan, who met upon its rocky -slopes and slew each other for any pretext, less for reason than for the -love of fighting. - -The war cries of all the clans of southern Ireland, however, have been -heard upon these rocks. "Shannied-Aboo" was the cry of the earls of -Desmond; "Crom-Aboo" was the cry of the Geraldines, and the Duke of -Leinster has it for the motto upon his coat of arms. The word "aboo" is -the Gaelic equivalent to our "hurrah." The cry of the O'Neills was -"Lamh-Dearg-Aboo" (Hurrah for the Red Hand, which was the crest of the -O'Neills). The O'Brien cry was "Lamh-Laider-Aboo" (Hurrah for the Strong -Hand). The Burkes cried "Galraigh-Aboo" (Hurrah for the Red Englishman). -The Fitzpatricks, "Gear-Laider-Aboo" (Hurrah for the Strong and the -Sharp). - -In the tenth year of the reign of Henry VII. an act passed by parliament -prohibited the use of these war cries in the following quaint terms: - -"Item; Prayen the commons in this present parliament assembled; that for -as much as there has been great variances, malices, debates and -comparisons between divers lords and gentlemen of this land, which hath -daily increased by seditious means of divers idle, ill-disposed persons, -utterly taking upon them to be servants to such lords and gentlemen; for -that they would be borne in their said idleness, and their other -unlawful demeaning, and nothing for any favor or entirely good love or -will that they bear under such lords and gentlemen. Therefore be it -enacted and established by the same authority; That no person nor -persons, of whatsoever estate, condition or degree he or they be of, -take part with any lord or gentleman or uphold any such variances or -comparisons in words or deeds as in using these words, Com-Aboo, -Butler-Aboo, or other words like, or otherwise contrary to the King's -laws, his crown, his dignity and his peace; but to call on St. George in -the name of his sovereign lord, King of England for the time being. And -if any person or persons of whatsoever estate, condition or degree he or -they be of, do contrary so offending in the premisses, or any of them be -taken and committed to ward, there to remain without bayle or maiprixe -till he or they have made fine after the discretion of the King's Deputy -of Ireland, and the King's Counsail of the same for the time being." - -The above is a sample of British legislation at the period that act was -passed, and that conglomerate of words means simply that enthusiastic -Irishmen were forbidden to excite their own emotions and the emotions of -others by the cries of their clan and were admonished to use only the -war cry of the King of England, who in battle is supposed to appeal to -St. George. - -The first glimpse of the Lakes of Killarney is obtained as the coach -comes around the point of a mountain, and a great green amphitheater -with a body of glimmering water at the bottom is suddenly spread out -before the passengers. The outlines are fringed with forests and the -lakes are studded with tiny islands of different sizes and shapes, but -all glow with a vivid color that is not found anywhere else. And this -picture is before the vision until the stage plunges into a tunnel of -foliage at the foot of the slope, near the ancient ruins of Muckross -Abbey, and follows along through a tunnel made of high stone walls and -overhanging boughs until the village of Killarney is reached. - -Long, long ago there were two giants, the giant of Glengariff and the -giant of Killarney, and they were very jealous of each other. They kept -up a continual controversy, each boasting of his own strength and valor -and daring the other to cross the mountains. Finally, after everybody -got tired of these threats and challenges, just as people do nowadays -about the talking matches of pugilists, the giant of Killarney decided -to go over to Glengariff and see what sort of a person his foe might be. -Disguising himself as a monk, he crossed the divide, came down into the -village, and was shown the way to his enemy's cabin. The giant of -Glengariff, having heard of the approach of his rival, became very much -frightened and hastily made a cradle big enough to hold his enormous -carcass, and, lying down in it, ordered his wife to tuck him up with a -blanket. And there he lay, pretending to be asleep, when the giant of -Killarney approached the door and politely offered the compliments of -the season to the lady he saw sitting on a three-legged stool with her -knitting in her lap. Her hand was on the edge of a cradle twelve feet -long, and she rocked it gently, crooning an old lullaby. - -"Hush, you spalpeen, lest ye wake the baby!" and she continued to sing -the slumber song in a soft, sweet voice. - -"Let's see your baby," whispered the giant of Killarney, and she lifted -the blanket gently from her husband's face. - -His enemy looked at him in amazement for an instant, and then, begging -the good lady's pardon for the intrusion, started back over the mountain -trail as fast as his big legs could take him. - -"If the baby's as big as that, how big must the ould man be!" - -Valentine Charles Browne, Earl of Kenmare, owns all of the Lakes of -Killarney, all the land that surrounds them, and, according to the grant -of James I., Feb. 16, 1622, "all the islands of, or in the same, and the -fisheries of said lakes, and the soil and bottom thereof." He owns all -the mountains round about, and one of his stewards told me that they -comprised 999,000 acres. He owns the village and everything within it, -even the ground on which the railway station stands. All of the hotels -occupy his soil under lease, and the insane asylum, with its six hundred -patients, and the poorhouse for County Kerry, with four hundred -friendless and destitute creatures within its walls. - -Sir Valentine Browne, Knight of Totteridge, Lincolnshire, England, was -constable, warden, victualler, and treasurer of Berwick in the reign of -Queen Elizabeth, who sent him with Sir Henry Wallop in 1583 to survey -escheated lands in Ireland. He remained on the island, was subsequently -sworn of the privy council, represented the County of Sligo in -parliament in 1588, and in June of the same year purchased from -MacCarthy More, Earl of Glencare, certain lands, manors, etc., in -counties Kerry and Cork, and obtained by patents from Queen Elizabeth -all the remainder of the Glencare estates. He was afterward quite useful -to her majesty, as his posterity have been to her successors. - -Sir Valentine Browne, his grandson, was created Baronet of Kenmare in -1622 and received a grant, from which I have quoted, of all the lakes -and all the lands and mountains round about them to the very bottom -thereof. In 1689 these estates were forfeited by his son because of his -fidelity to the unfortunate James II., but were restored to the family -in 1720, and in 1724 Valentine, the fifth viscount, was made an earl. -The late earl was one of the most devoted councilors and confidential -advisers of the late Queen Victoria. She was very much attached to him, -and he had charge of her household as vice chamberlain and lord -chamberlain from 1872 to 1886, and was one of her lords in waiting until -her death. His mother was Gertrude Thynne, a niece of the Earl of Bath, -and is still living. The father died in 1905 at the age of eighty, after -a useful and honorable career. - -The present earl was educated at Eton and Oxford, served for a time in -the army, went to Australia as an aid-de-camp to the Governor of -Victoria, was state steward to the Earl of Aberdeen during the first -term of the latter as lord lieutenant of Ireland, and married Elizabeth -Baring, daughter of Lord Revelstoke of the famous firm of Baring -Brothers, bankers, London. He has a brother-in-law in New York. The Earl -of Kenmare is the most prominent and influential Roman Catholic in the -Irish peerage. He is devoted to the interests of the church, is devout -in his habits, maintains a private chapel in his London residence and at -his mansion here, and a family chaplain in the old-fashioned way. He -never leaves his house in the morning without prayers at which all the -household and guests are present and the servants are called in from -their tasks. There is a cathedral of pretentious architecture upon his -grounds in the village to which his father contributed a quarter of a -million dollars. It has been built within the last few years by Bishop -Mangan of this diocese, and is already being enlarged, although to a -stranger it seems to be big enough as it is. - -[Illustration: KENMARE HOUSE, KILLARNEY] - -Kenmare House has one hundred and nine rooms. The grand reception salon -is 135 feet in length and 42 feet in width, with a deep recessed -fireplace and a massive oak mantel; the library is 48 by 42 feet, the -state dining-room 52 by 30 feet, the drawing-room 36 by 24 feet, the -smoking-room 25 by 17 feet, the family dining-room 21 by 16 feet, the -earl's study 24 by 16 feet, her ladyship's boudoir 18 by 30 feet, the -state bedroom 33 by 24 feet, and nine other state apartments of similar -dimensions. There are sixteen family bedrooms, each with a bath -attached, on the second floor, and twenty-six double and single bedrooms -on the third floor, with a bachelor's wing of fifteen rooms entirely -separate from the rest of the house and reached by a long corridor. -There is a nursery and schoolroom 36 by 18 feet, a servants' hall 30 by -20 feet, and fifteen bedrooms for servants. Altogether there are eighty -living-rooms, amply furnished, besides the kitchens, bakery, storerooms, -pantries, and servants' quarters. There is a garage, and stabling for -seventeen horses, a dairy, a fish hatchery which stocks the brooks with -trout and the lakes with salmon; seven thousand acres of forest preserve -with deer and other game, and, altogether, more than one hundred -thousand acres of shooting upon the hills and mountains, the bogs and -forests surrounding the Lakes of Killarney. In 1907 the game bag -included 2,500 rabbits, 470 pheasants, 400 woodcock, 200 grouse, 150 -hares, 100 snipe, and 40 teal ducks, 14 stags, 6 hinds, and 4 does. No -account was taken of the trout and the salmon which abound in the lake -and in the several rivers and brooks which feed it. It is undoubtedly -one of the most beautiful and attractive estates in all the United -Kingdom. - -The fishing is very good in the spring. An Englishman at our hotel -brought in several beautiful ten and twelve pound salmon, which he -caught with a fly, although it was warm weather and the poorest time of -year for the fishing. His lordship charges a fee of five dollars for the -privilege of fishing in his lake. That pays for a license of one year, -but is not transferable. A transient guest at a hotel, however, can go -out with licensed fishermen as often as he likes. In the spring, when -the salmon are running, nets are used, and his lordship gets the -proceeds of the catch. The fish are shipped to Dublin and London, and -the returns are $3,000 and $4,000 a year. His lordship allows none but -rowboats upon the lakes. He will not permit a steamer or motor launch or -even a naphtha launch, and every one who has a boat has to take out a -license, for which he collects ten shillings. But the boatmen make it up -during the tourist season. - -The Earl of Kenmare will share his blessings, so far as his park is -concerned, with you or any one else for a sixpence, and they are well -worth it. I do not know any place where a lover of nature or one who is -fond of strolling through the woods can get as much for his money. The -demesne or park contains about nineteen hundred acres of forest and -garden with many miles of walks and drives. The lodgekeepers at every -one of the six gates are always alert to collect the sixpence and give -you a ticket, numbered and stamped and good for that day only. But you -can pass the gates with it as often as you like until they are closed at -night, and a wise man will spend as much time as he can spare within the -demesne every day. When we were there in June the trees were glorious; -hundreds of acres of rhododendrons were in flower and made great banks -of purple blossoms; the hawthorns, arbutus, laburnums, and other -flowering trees and the woodbine were in their greatest glory. And when -they fade we can admire the oaks and beeches that have been growing -there for hundreds of years. Many of the trees were planted after -designs. There are long avenues that are completely roofed by boughs, -and at one place a magnificent cathedral of beeches has been devised of -foliage, three wide aisles made by five rows of venerable beech trees -more than three hundred years old, which were trimmed almost to the top -when young and the branches trained to overlap so that they are almost a -rain-proof roof. The trunks are smooth and almost straight, like the -columns of a basilica, and the ground is covered with half decayed -shells of beech nuts that have fallen during the centuries. - -But the most glorious part of the demesne is the garden, which surpasses -any that I have seen for years. It occupies a terrace surrounding -Kenmare House upon the highest eminence in the demesne and overlooks the -lakes. It is laid out in the Italian style, and the gardener told us -that it was designed by the Dowager Lady Kenmare when she was a bride. -If that is true her ladyship must have been a very clever landscape -gardener. The most striking feature is a tennis court inclosed within a -hedge of cypress ten feet high and six feet thick, with the top trimmed -to represent the wall of a castle, with arches for entrances and bays -and recesses where benches have been placed to accommodate spectators. -This unique wall of cypress is so dense that a tennis ball will rebound -from it. Adjoining the tennis court is a croquet ground, and just behind -them an exquisite little cottage where her ladyship serves tea every -summer afternoon to her guests. - -I was told that no other garden in Ireland compares with this, and the -only ones that approach it are those of the Duke of Devonshire at -Lismore and the Duke of Ormonde at Kilkenny. Although those at -Versailles and Fontainebleau are much more extensive, they are not so -artistic. - -The Lakes of Killarney are three in number and, strangely enough, have -no romantic names. They really are only one lake, the Lower, Upper, and -Middle lakes being connected by narrow channels only a few yards long. -The three are thirty miles in circumference and the extreme end of Upper -Lake is eleven miles from the extreme end of Lower Lake. The Lower Lake -is the largest, being about five and a half miles long and two and a -half miles wide at the widest place; Middle Lake and Upper Lake are each -about two miles long at the greatest length and about three-quarters of -a mile wide at the widest point. They all contain numerous islands of -different sizes. Somebody has counted them, and I think has found -sixty-five, large and small. One of them, Innisfallen Island, was -occupied by a monastery back in St. Patrick's time, and the famous -"Annals of Innisfallen," one of the earliest and most authentic of the -ancient Irish histories, was written there by the monks, who began the -manuscript at least twelve hundred years ago. The original is now in the -Bodleian Library at Oxford, and is one of the most valuable manuscripts -in the world, with fifty-seven leaves, closely covered with beautiful -penmanship. The earlier portion consists of extracts from the Old -Testament and a history of the world down to the arrival of St. Patrick -in 432. From that time it treats exclusively of Irish affairs, -terminating with the year 1319. It is evidently a record of certain -facts which came to the knowledge of the monks of Innisfallen Abbey -during a period of nearly seven hundred years until, in 1320, the abbey -was plundered and the monks massacred by Maolduin O'Donaghue and the -MacCarthys. It has since remained in ruins, a few broken walls covered -with ivy, which are visited regularly by Augustinian brothers who come -here on pilgrimages. - -The lakes are surrounded almost entirely by a range of mountains, except -on the north, where they break into low hills. There are six peaks -rising over two thousand feet, including Carran-Tuel (3,314 feet), the -highest mountain in Ireland; Mangerton (2,756 feet), Purple Mountain -(2,739), Devil's Punch Bowl (2,665), Toomies (2,500), and Torc (2,100). -There are several other mountains which approach these in height, -forming a mighty barrier between County Cork and County Kerry, and -protecting Killarney from the cold southwest winds of the ocean. The -Devil's Punch Bowl is an extinct volcano, and gets its name from an -enormous crater near its summit which is filled with water and fed from -subterranean springs. There is no bottom so far as people have been able -to discover. The crater reaches down into the bowels of the earth -somewhere and furnishes an inexhaustible reservoir of pure, cold water, -which is now piped down to the village of Killarney. - -[Illustration: UPPER LAKE, KILLARNEY.] - -By a curious freak of nature these mountains are all detached and -separated by narrow valleys and gorges, although at a distance they seem -to be in a cluster. The passes are watered with streams that fall -over precipitous rocks and form numerous cascades. We came through one -of them on our way from Glengariff, and nearly all the others have hard, -smooth roads which are utilized for excursions on coaches, and in -jaunting cars. Some of them are impassable except on horseback. They -furnish delightful diversions for tourists and people who are spending -the summer at the hotels, and give a good opportunity to see the scenery -and Irish life. The excursion system is well organized. It is only -necessary to buy a ticket and to "follow the man from Cook's." There are -many short drives also and visits can be made to the islands by -rowboats. There are several romantic old castles and the Earl of Kenmare -has built tea houses at different points which are greatly appreciated. - -There is no more delightful place in the world for rest and mild forms -of enjoyment, but sporty people will find Killarney "beastly dull." It -is not in the least bit exciting; there is no dressing and there is no -dancing, and some of the hotels are without barrooms. The most thrilling -excitement is found in tennis, golf, fishing, walking, driving, and -listening to a phonograph in the evening. There is an active rivalry -between the worshipers of the Scotch and the English lakes and the -admirers of the Lakes of Killarney. They all have a certain resemblance, -and the latter are like Alpine lakes in miniature--not so much mountain, -not so much water, but a similar canopy of blue sky and green settings. -The mountains were grouped by a competent Artist and are embroidered and -fringed with foliage, but are bare as a bone on their slopes and peaks. -They are good for nothing but scenery. The grass is so scarce that it -doesn't pay to pasture cattle over them, and a goat would have nervous -prostration from loneliness. There are said to be plenty of deer, but -that is doubtful. - -But as features of a picture the mountains around Killarney, with their -shifting lights and shadows as the sun rises and declines, are exquisite -pictures. They appear at their best when the sun goes down and the mist -rises and softens their outlines. The lingering twilight leaves deep -shadows of purple and blue, and every evening we sit on a bench in the -hotel garden and watch them fade away like a scene in a theater when -curtains of gauze are dropped one after another. - -The vivid Irish imagination has furnished a volume of legends and -superstitions about the lakes. Some of them have been handed down from -the earliest generations. These attractions drew to them the lovers of -the beautiful ages ago and they were originally known as "The Lakes of -Learning," because at one time there were three monasteries there, -attended by multitudes of students from all over the world. They have -been a favorite theme of all the Irish poets, and the scene of -innumerable romances. The legends, which account for the origin of the -lakes, are not consistent. Some one neglected to close the entrance to -an enchanted fountain in the mountains, which caused a flood and covered -fair and fertile fields and splendid palaces with water. One of the -ancestors of the O'Donaghues, who originally owned all the water and all -the mountains, as the Earl of Kenmare does at present, full of -skepticism and wine, defied the gods, who threatened destruction if a -stone from a certain sacred well should be disturbed. With the bravado -that was characteristic of his descendants, he carried the stone to his -castle. When the people heard of this impiety they fled to a neighboring -mountain, and in the morning when the sun rose they looked down and saw -that the valley in which their homes had been was covered with water. - -The O'Donaghue is the hero of most of the legends. He is identified with -almost every island and with almost every glen. The legends all agree -that the men and women who inhabited the lovely valley did not perish -with him, but The O'Donaghue lives at the bottom of the lake in a -gorgeous palace, surrounded by congenial friends and enjoys feasting and -folly as much as he did before the flood. Every seven years in the -summer he comes to the surface, and makes a journey from one end of the -lakes to the other, riding a splendid white stallion, in an armor of -gold and a helmet that glitters with diamonds. He gallops through the -town and around the mountains just as he did when he was the lord of -the land, and will continue to do so until the silver shoes on the hoofs -of his stallion are worn out. Blessings are showered upon every one who -is fortunate enough to see him. If a girl can catch a glimpse of this -brilliant knight as he makes his midnight journey she is sure to be -married before the end of the year. - -O'Donaghue's horse, his prison, his stable, his library, his cellar, his -pulpit, his table, his broom, and various other things that belonged to -him are pointed out among the rocks upon the islands of the shore. Every -freak of nature has some association with him. - -Scores of peasants may be found who have actually seen him, and half the -population believe in his seven-year visits. Many curious stories of -which O'Donaghue is the hero have been invented in the generations that -have passed by imaginative mothers to entertain their children. When I -asked a thoughtful jaunting car driver if he believed in the periodical -appearance of the ancient lord of the lake, he answered: - -"Wall, I dunno', I dunno'; me mither tould me the tale wid her own -blessed lips; me wife has tould it jist the same to our own children, -and I am shure The O'Donaghue isn't in Killarney the rist of the toime, -and why shouldn't he have the pleasure of comin' for one noight?" - -St. Patrick never came to Killarney, but the legend is that he climbed -up to the top of the tallest mountain, stretched out his hands over the -lakes and said: "I bless all beyint the reeks" (mountains). - -Fin MacCool kept his tubs of gold in the lake near Muckross Abbey and -his dog Bran watched them. "One day a brute of an Englishman, an' a -great diver intirely, came over to git the goold, and when he wint down -into the wather the dog Bran sazed him by the trousers and shook the -life out of him until he died, and his ghost has been wanderin' around -there ivir sence." - -The shore of the lake under the windows of Ross Castle is strewn with -curious-looking flat stones. They are the books of his library which -The O'Donaghue threw out of the window when he was mad one day, and they -turned to rocks. - -When The O'Donaghue was a slip of a boy and was sitting in front of the -castle an old woman came running along shrieking that the O'Sullivans -had come through the pass from County Cork and were stealing the cattle. -"The O'Donaghue, thin only thirteen years old, bedad, seizes an oulde -sword and kills every mother's son of the thaving blaggards, an' sticks -their bodies up agin the wall as a warning to all the ruffians of the -clans beyant the mountains. - -"When The O'Donaghue was a young man and went into his first battle he -slew six hundred of his enemies in a single day. He fought so long and -became so tired that his legs and arms would have fallen off his body if -they hadn't been held together by his armor. - -"One day when Ossian, the poet, came to Killarney he met an old priest -trying to carry a sack of corn on his back. Ossian relieved him of the -burden. The priest called on the Holy Virgin to bless him, whereupon -Ossian said, 'I help you because you are an old man and not for the sake -of virgins or married women or widdies,' for Ossian was a hathen and he -didn't know any better, an' how could he know what the holy father meant -when he sphoke of the Blessed Virgin? But, nevertheless, the curse was -on him, and in a minute he was an ould shrivelled, crippled crater, a -dale oulder than the priest whose sack of corn he was carrying. And all -this for takin' the name of Blessed Virgin in vain, and not knowing any -better. But the priest, with a few words of prayer, relaved the -enchantment and converted Ossian to Christianity on the sphot." - -[Illustration: ROSS CASTLE, KILLARNEY] - -Ross Castle was the stronghold of the O'Donaghues. It was built -somewhere about the twelfth century by the celebrated Hugh O'Donaghue, -who lives in the lake and rides about the country every seven years. It -is an historic fact that he lived there once, although the legends that -are told of him go back for centuries before its foundation. There is a -massive tower or keep, about one hundred feet high and one hundred -feet square, "and ivy clasps the fissured stones with its entwining -arms." The walls of the tower are almost perfect. There is a long -extension, however, entirely in ruins, but it gives an idea of the -enormous dimensions of the castle. It was surrounded by outworks of -great strength, and you can see traces of the round watch towers at the -angles. A stone staircase leads to the top of the tower, where a -beautiful view of the country can be obtained. Few ruins in Ireland are -so extensive and so well kept. - -Everybody has to pay a sixpence to see Ross Castle, and the money goes -into the empty pocket of the Earl of Kenmare. You have to pay to see -everything in this country, however, and sometimes the petty hotel -charges are exasperating. They are insignificant, but everything goes in -the bill; every time you draw a breath or ask a question it costs -twopence. If the hotel managers would make a straight rate per day to -cover all these trifles they would make a great deal more money and save -a great deal of temper. The only free ruins are those of the ancient -Abbey of Agahadoe, which occupy a conspicuous site on the ridge back of -the town where they were built in the eighth century by Finian, the -leper saint. - -Ross Castle has withstood many a siege in its time, but was finally -captured, dismantled, and left in its present condition during the civil -war in 1652. It was attacked by General Ludlow with an army of four -thousand footmen and two hundred horse, and defended by The O'Donaghue -of that time. Finding it impregnable by land, Ludlow left a portion of -his force to hold it in a state of siege, while he retired to -Castlemaine and built a fleet of boats with which he made an attack by -water. There was an ancient proverb that "Ross Castle will never fall -until ships float in the Lake of Killarney," hence, the garrison -remembered that saying when they saw Ludlow's flotilla approaching, and -were so demoralized by the superstition that they abandoned it and laid -down their arms. It was the last of the O'Donaghues. Their power and -glory have never been regained. - -The village of Killarney is unattractive and untidy, but it is a busy -place. One doesn't understand why in a country where there is so much -room to spare, the villages should not be made up of detached cottages -with gardens and lawns, hedges and shade trees, instead of sections of -solid blocks that look as if they had been cut out of the tenement house -districts of crowded cities. Killarney is a solid mass of brick and -mortar, with stuccoed fronts, painted a dingy yellow, without the -slightest thing to relieve the monotony until you suddenly pass the last -house and the green fields begin. - -It is a great tourist center, and there are a dozen hotels and -boarding-houses of different pretensions and prices. There are "licensed -houses" and "unlicensed houses" and some of them are licensed for seven -days in a week, which means that the proprietor has permission to sell -whisky and beer from two to five o'clock on the Sabbath day. Cook's -excursion parties come in like swarms of bees, buzzing around the hotels -and shops where laces and other curiosities are for sale and carry off -loads of queer things as souvenirs. They breakfast at seven o'clock in -the morning and are piled into great four-horse coaches by nine and -start off on excursions with their luncheons in baskets under the seats. -They return at sunset completely tired out, but the next morning are off -for Dublin or Glengariff. It is about as hard work to travel with an -excursion party as anything I know of, for every moment must be -economized and everybody feels under obligations to see everything. - -Killarney is quite an educational center also. There are several popular -schools there and several monasteries. The Franciscans conduct a -theological seminary and the Christian Brothers have a college in -connection with the cathedral. There are two or three convents where -young ladies are educated, and a large institution in which two hundred -and ten girls are being taught by the nuns to make lace, which is one of -the most profitable occupations an Irish woman can engage in. And they -have a School of Housewifery, conducted by the British government under -the supervision of the minister of agriculture at Dublin. Paternalism is -carried farther in Ireland than in Switzerland, Germany, or any other -place I know of, as you will admit when you hear that twenty-three -rosy-cheeked, blue-eyed mavourneens are being educated at the expense of -the taxpayers as domestic servants. They are rescued from the filthy -cabins in the mountains, washed, and clothed in neat liveries, natty -little muslin caps are pinned to their raven tresses, frilled muslin -aprons are fastened to their frocks, and they are taught how to wash -dishes and cook and make beds and do plain sewing, and dust the -bric-a-brac in the drawing-room and say, "Yes, me lady," and "Yes, me -lord," and courtesy when they are spoken to. They learn to mend and -embroider, to do up hair, to fasten dresses and other duties pertaining -to the jurisdiction of a lady's maid, and, after a year or so of this -training, they are found positions in the households of the nobility, -where they will spend their lives as servants and marry a footman or a -gamekeeper, as will their children and grandchildren generations to come -after them, because domestic service is a profession in Great Britain, -and is followed by families who are trained for their work. - -This school is a great thing for the Irish girls in the mountain cabins, -whose lives might otherwise be hopelessly sunk in squalor and filth that -seem to be inseparable from the peasant population. I have never been -able to find anybody to explain why an Irish farmer piles his manure in -front of the only door to his cabin. It is an habitual subject of -witticism, just as it is in Switzerland, where similar customs prevail, -but with thousands of acres of bare ground all around the cabin, it -would seem that some other place might be found. - -It occurred to me, too, as I was going through the School of -Housewifery, that our government might do worse than establish similar -schools in the Southern States for training colored girls in the same -way, but I suppose the Supreme Court would pronounce such a scheme -unconstitutional. - -A house by the roadside now occupied by a farmer named McSweeny is -pointed out as the birthplace of Robert Emmet. - -Lord Kitchener was born about nineteen miles from here, at Crotto -House, Tralee, where his father and mother were stopping for the summer. -His father was a colonel in the army and was on leave from his regiment -at the time of Kitchener's birth. - -The great Daniel O'Connell was also born in the neighborhood, and his -nephew, Sir Maurice O'Connell, lives in a stately mansion that overlooks -the lower lake in the middle of a beautiful grove. - -Muckross Abbey ranks with Melrose Abbey in Scotland and Kenilworth -Castle in England as among the most picturesque and interesting ruins in -the world. The walls and the Gothic windows, the tower and several other -distinctive features are well preserved, and the ivy drapery makes it an -exquisite picture. The abbey stands within the park of two hundred and -ninety acres that surrounds Muckross House and is the property of Lord -Ardilaun, who has many beautiful places in different parts of Ireland, -and cannot possibly enjoy them all; but none is so beautiful as Muckross -House. - -[Illustration: MUCKROSS ABBEY, KILLARNEY] - -He purchased the property of the Herbert family who inherited it from -Florence MacCarthy More, who, in 1750 married Agnes, daughter of Edward -Herbert of this county, and they had one son who was the last MacCarthy -More in the direct line, and that famous family became extinct, for he -died without issue in 1770, and the estate passed into the possession of -his mother's family, being the nearest relatives. The Honorable Arthur -Herbert died in 1866, and a beautiful Celtic cross has been erected to -his memory upon the highest hill in the neighborhood, overlooking the -park that he prized so highly, and where he enjoyed so much pleasure. -His widow and daughters lived there for thirty years until they expired, -when the place was offered at auction and Lord Ardilaun bid it in for -£63,000 for the estate, and paid £10,000 more for furniture, pictures, -live stock, and other property, making it cost him altogether about -£73,000. And now he offers it for sale--the whole thing, a house of -thirty-two rooms, a park of two hundred and ninety acres, the ruins of -Muckross Abbey, and history and legends galore--for £75,000. And -perhaps he would take less from the proper person. In 1907 a syndicate -was organized to purchase the place and turn it into a Monte Carlo. They -proposed to make the handsome old mansion a gambling-house and erect a -large hotel with all possible allurements near by; but when Lord -Ardilaun learned of the scheme, he instructed his solicitors to insert -in the deed a clause stipulating that it should be used for residential -purposes only, and that made it worthless to the syndicate. So Muckross -Abbey and its beautiful surroundings are still in the market. - -The abbey dates back to the dawn of Christianity in Ireland, and its -site was originally occupied in the fourth or fifth century by a -monastery founded by St. Finian of Innisfallen and his monks. The -present building, however, was erected by Donald MacCarthy More, Prince -of Desmond, in 1330, and was finished by his son in 1340 for the -Franciscan friars, who occupied it as a monastery and as a college. -There was some kind of an institution on the same site between the -monastery of St. Finian and the present one, for an ancient manuscript -in the library of Trinity College, Dublin, gives an account of its -destruction by fire in the eleventh century. The founder, Donald -MacCarthy More, built the beautiful chapel as a burial place for himself -and his posterity. It is also the burial place of the O'Donaghues of the -Glens, and in the very center of the choir is a large square tomb in -which was deposited the body of "The Great O'Donaghue," the chieftain of -the lakes, of whom Mr. Maurice R. Moriarity, the custodian, gives many -interesting legends in his history of the ruins. - -The O'Donaghues were connected by marriage with the MacCarthys, kings of -Munster, and had their headquarters at Blarney Castle, near Cork. Twelve -generations, so far as the inscriptions can be deciphered, of that proud -family are lying there, and more than twenty generations of O'Donaghues. -The last MacCarthy buried here was Florence, husband of Agnes Herbert, -who lived in Muckross House until his death in 1770. The last O'Donaghue -buried here was Donal, a direct descendant of The O'Donaghue of the -Glens, who was a member of parliament and died in 1889. His son Jeffrey, -"The O'Donaghue," as the head of the family is always called, is a -barrister living in Dublin, a gentleman of high reputation and much -influence, although he has lost almost everything but his proud name and -a lineage that is interwoven with the history of Ireland since human -actions were recorded. - -The grandfather of "The O'Donaghue" was a captain in the Munster -Fusiliers, which were recruited in County Kerry and was stationed at -Chester, near Liverpool, the home of Gladstone, in 1860, during a -religious agitation. A band of rioters were making ready to burn an -effigy of the pope when Captain O'Donaghue warned the leaders that if -such an insult to the holy father was offered the Kerry men of his -regiment would burn the city of Chester to the ground. When this threat -became known the mob dispersed, and there were no more religious -demonstrations while Captain O'Donaghue and the men of Kerry were in the -Chester barracks. - -"The O'Donaghues were ginerally prayin' when they woren't foightin' or -dhrinkin'," said the ancient oracle who gave me this information. "They -feared none but God, and since Maolduin O'Donaghue burned the monastery -of Innisfallen and murdered the monks in 1158 they have spint much toime -doin' pinnance for his sins." - -It is customary for the heads of these old families to use the word -"The" as a prefix to their names to indicate their rank, and I have seen -letters signed in that way, without the initials of the writer. For -example, "The MacDermott" is a barrister of importance in Dublin. "The -O'Donivan" lives at Cork and retains a part of the ancestral estates. -"The O'Shea" is a clergyman of the Church of England stationed at -Manchester and makes much of his position as the head of the clan. "The -O'Neill" is the Lord of Londonderry, and "The O'Connor" lives at -Sligo--a brother of the late Sir Nicholas O'Connor, who was British -ambassador at Constantinople at the time of his death. "The O'Flaherty" -is a justice of the peace near Galway, and a man of importance. And -members of other old families recognize the head of their clan in a -similar manner, although it carries nothing but glory and gratification -with it. - -"The O'Sullivans, the MacCarthys, and all the old families loike the -O'Donaghues, are gone; played out, as ye moight say," remarked the -oracle. "For tin cinturies the O'Sullivans ruled whole counties in -Ireland, but they have lost their proid as well as their property, and -are now contint to kape pooblic houses [saloons] and sit around -complaining of the hard toimes. The whole country south of here is full -of O'Sullivans. There's more of thim than of any other name. If anny wan -were to sail across County Kerry in a balloon and cast out a bag of -corn, ivery kernel would hit an O'Sullivan, but they are only proivates -in the clan. The ruling line is extinct and no O'Sullivan now owns an -acre of the old estates. Nor do the O'Donaghues; they're as poor as -church mice, having lost all but the name and the spirit of the race. - -"Look at that grave there; it's filled with the bones of Black Jeffery -O'Donaghue. They called him the Black Prince of the Glenflesk. He lived -at Killaha Castle, situated five moiles from here and built on a rock -standin' in the middle of a bog, and nobody could find the way but those -who knew it. His spirit nothing could contain. He hated the English as -no man ever hated thim before or since, and whin he saw an Englishman -his temper would rise like the hair on the back of an angry dog. No -Englishman ever came within soight of Killaha Castle and got home -aloive. But Black Jeffery died in his bed after all, of tuberculosis; ye -kin see the date on the tomb--1756, age 36. - -"Did yez ivir hear about the midnight marriage of the master of Blarney -Castle which took place here in the ruined abbey in the year 1590, which -Quane Elizabeth an' the intire parlymint did their best to prevint? It's -a great story. The heads of the two branches of the MacCarthy family -were thin united in the persons of Florence MacCarthy of Blarney Castle, -the same gintleman that deludered Quane Elizabeth with his soft words -and caused the invintion of the word 'blarney' that is used so much -these days. Waal, he was in love with Aileen MacCarthy, his cousin, -daughter of Donal MacCarthy Mor, Earl of Glencare. The two factions had -been inemies, and it was the policy of the English to kape thim apart, -because a reconciliation would bring them togither an' make thim more -dangerous to British authority. And that was what Quane Elizabeth was -trying to prevint. She feared that if the MacCarthy factions made frinds -they would join Hugh O'Neill and the great Earl of Desmond, thin in -rebellion, and so the marriage was forbidden by her majesty. An' that -made Florence MacCarthy all the more determined to wed Aileen, who had -been his sweetheart in sacrit for several years, and one day he crossed -the lake wid Lady Aileen and her mother in a boat rowed by four lusty -gallowglasses with their battle-axes lyin' where the oars had been. - -"They landed at midnight at the abbey, thin half in ruins, solemn and -mournful, in silence and decay. The moon shone through the roofless -walls and the broken windows of the crumbling shrine of Irrelagh, upon -the blissed head of a vinerable friar, Florence MacCarthy's chaplain, -who was awaiting thim himself--one of thim who, in the dark days of -Henry VIII. was expelled from the abbey at the point of a Protestant -sword. Wid him was O'Sullivan Mor, MacFinian, the Countess of Glencare, -and the beautiful Lady Una O'Leary, and that was all. No bard was there -to sing the bridal song, no harp to give swate sounds, no banner to -wave, no clansmen to raise a joyous cheer, an' no spear or battle-ax -gleamed in the moonlight, but the Blissed Virgin and all the saints were -lookin' down all the while, approvin', through the roofless aisles, when -Florence MacCarthy and Aileen MacCarthy pledged their vows. - -[Illustration: A WINDOW OF MUCKROSS ABBEY, KILLARNEY] - -"This sacred marriage was proclaimed an act of treason by Quane -Elizabeth, and for that Florence MacCarthy went to the Tower, but he got -the bist of it after all." - -The windows of Muckross Abbey are the most perfect of any ruin in -Ireland, and the moldings of several of the doorways are in a fine -state of preservation, so that the carving can be carefully studied. -There is a cloister thirty-three feet square, encircled by a vaulted -corridor seven feet wide and lighted by twenty-two arched windows, which -is as good as if it were built yesterday. And in the center of the -quadrangle is a venerable yew tree, said to be the largest in the world, -having been planted by the monks at the foundation of the abbey in 1340. -It was usual, so I am told, for Franciscan monks to plant yew trees in -the courtyards of their monasteries, and they are found frequently in -ruins. The trunk of this tree is smooth and straight to a height of -twenty feet, and is about twelve feet in circumference at the base. The -branches spread over the inclosing walls like an umbrella and darken the -entire quadrangle, which never had any other roof. - -Several legends are woven around this majestic tree which, in the eyes -and hearts of the people of Killarney, is an object of great veneration. -If any one should injure it, even by breaking off a twig, he would -excite popular indignation. They believe that such sacrilege will be -punished by the death of the guilty person within a year, and it is a -remarkable coincidence that such things have occurred several times. - -The kitchen, the refectory, the chapter-rooms, and several other -apartments are in an excellent state of preservation and are well cared -for, but the cells of the dormitory have almost disappeared. The tower -stands as it was five hundred years ago, but is an empty shell, having -no roof, flooring, or staircase, and visitors are prohibited from -climbing the walls. - -Some of the graves are quite modern. Muckross Abbey is still open for -the burial of members of four families, who have ancient rights. The -latest grave was made in 1902. Several of the epitaphs are quite -interesting, particularly those which bear testimony to the virtues and -the happiness and usefulness of the women of the O'Donaghue and -MacCarthy families. For example, one of them describes a beloved wife, -"who, in her progress through life, fulfilled all its duties with -uniform and exemplary prudence, whose respectful love as a daughter, -whose affectionate kindness as a sister, whose fond and provident care -as a mother, and whose endearing tenderness as a wife, were eminently -conspicuous. Combining the discharge of social obligations with piety, -edifying yet unobtrusive, she lived and died a Christian. To rescue her -memory from oblivion, to preserve a remembrance of her virtues for the -instruction and imitation of the young, this stone is erected by her -disconsolate husband." - -If you want a description of Muckross Abbey that is worth reading you -will find it in the works of Sir Walter Scott, who was there in 1825, -and if you are pleased with that, and would like a little more of the -same sort, read Lord Macaulay's account of his visit in 1849; in which -he says that one of the boatmen on Lake Killarney "gloried in having -rowed Sir Walter Scott and Maria Edgeworth about the lake when they were -here twenty-four years ago, and said it was a compensation to him for -having missed a hanging which took place in the village that very day." - - - - - XXVII - - INTEMPERANCE, INSANITY, AND CRIME - - -There is a great deal of drunkenness in Ireland. There is more in Dublin -than anywhere else, but not so much as in Scotland. In Ireland a saloon -is called "a public house" and a saloon-keeper is called a publican. All -liquor selling is done under licenses granted by the justices of the -peace upon petitions signed by the people of the community in which the -saloon is to be located. There is no limit to the number of licenses; -and there seems to be no particular rule about granting them, except -that the fee of one pound must be paid annually. A license once granted -is perpetual as long as the annual fee is paid and the police do not -show cause why it should be revoked. Licenses are held chiefly by -ordinary merchants, at what we would call country stores, by the -wayside, at "four corners," where the peasants go to trade, and along -highways frequented by teamsters, jaunting cars, bicyclers, and other -people with vehicles. The publican usually puts a watering trough in -front of his place, and thus affords refreshment for man and beast. In -most of the rural districts licenses are held in families and handed -down from generation to generation of storekeepers, who keep bottles on -the shelves and manage to sell enough liquor to pay the fees. If the -business is sold or inherited the license goes with the place, and many -have been running for a hundred years or more. - -Until recently anyone could get a license by obtaining a few signatures -of political influence, but a recent act of parliament prohibits the -issue of new licenses except for hotels, genuine clubs, and new villages -of a certain population. The effect of this legislation will be to -gradually reduce the number of liquor sellers and prevent the extension -of the traffic except as new towns may be started, which is not common -in Ireland, as it is in the United States. - -In the five principal cities of Ireland, Dublin, Belfast, Cork, -Limerick, and Waterford, special licenses are necessary, and the fees -vary from one pound to sixty pounds per year, according to the amount of -business done. There are "six-day licenses" and "seven-day licenses." -The latter permit liquor selling between two and five o'clock on Sunday -afternoons and require an additional fee. The Sunday closing law is said -to be well enforced throughout all Ireland, but in Dublin crowds of men -and women can be seen standing around the "publics" during the open -hours on Sunday afternoons. - -For the year ending March 31, 1907, a total of 23,835 licenses were -issued in Ireland, of which 17,496 were granted to publicans, 2,510 to -wholesale dealers, and 1,022 to wholesale grocers who handle wine, beer, -and spirits to be consumed off the premises; and 2,807 special licenses -were issued for temporary privileges. - -The public houses show a slight decrease. Ten years ago, in 1898, there -were 17,407 licenses granted for them; in 1900 there were 17,596; in -1903 there were 17,749; in 1905 there were 17,571, and in 1907 there -were 17,496, or an average of one to every 250 people. The licenses for -the wholesale and grocery traffic also remain about the same. - -W.R. Wigham, a Quaker, who is secretary of the Irish Association for the -Prevention of Intemperance, told me that there is less private drinking -and less habitual drinking in Ireland than is generally supposed. The -Irish are a convivial people, but comparatively few men or women drink -for the love of the liquor. Most of the drunkenness is seen at the fairs -and cattle sales, the festivals and wakes, although the use of liquor at -the latter has been forbidden by the bishops and is now much less -frequent than formerly. - -In England and Scotland drinking is more regular and general for the -sake of the stimulant, while an Irishman very seldom drinks alone. In -order to lessen intemperance from conviviality an anti-treating -movement was started a few years ago. It was popularly known as "The -League of the Lonely Pint," and for a couple of years was quite -successful, but it did not last. - -The quantity of spirituous liquors consumed in Ireland is much less than -in England or Scotland because the population is less, but the average -is greater than in Scotland. The _per capita_ consumption in England for -1906 of alcoholic liquors was 2,090 gallons, in Scotland, 1,430 gallons, -and in Ireland 1,614 gallons. - -The drink bill _per capita_ is less in Ireland. Taking all liquors into -the calculation the expenditure _per capita_ for liquor in England last -year was £3 19_s._ 9_d._, in Scotland £3 3_s._ 1_d._, and in Ireland £3 -2_s._ 10_d._ - -The number of arrests for drunkenness and for crimes and offenses which -may be attributed to liquor have been decreasing in Ireland for several -years. In 1902 in all Ireland, 80,054 men and 11,163 women, making a -total of 91,217, were arrested for drunkenness. In 1906 the figures were -68,656 men and 8,606 women, making a total of 77,262. This is a decrease -of 11,398 men and 2,557 women and a total decrease of 13,955 in four -years. - -In 1902 one person out of forty-eight was arrested for drunkenness in -Ireland, in 1906 one in fifty-eight, which is a decided improvement; but -think of 8,000 and 11,000 women being arrested for drunkenness! - -The number of arrests for assault during the year 1907 in all Ireland -was less than ever before, being only 16,055, in comparison with 24,027 -in 1896, 22,065 in 1900, and 16,666 in 1904, while the number of persons -arrested for disorderly conduct decreased from 90,233 to 77,262 during -the same years. There is a terrible side to the picture. Of the women -arrested for drunkenness in Ireland last year more than one thousand -were under twenty-one years of age, 118 between sixteen and eighteen -years of age, while 156 were over sixty. - -The Sunday law is pretty well enforced, and during the last year, -outside of the five principal cities, 2,289 persons were arrested for -its violation. That is about the average for the last ten years. - -In Dublin there has been a decided falling off in the arrests for -drunkenness on Sunday; the total in 1898 was 1,280, while in 1907 it was -only 404. The number of arrests for drunkenness on Sunday in Cork -decreased from 265 to 193 during the same period, and those in Belfast -from 537 to 434. - -In the city of Dublin alone 1,772 women were arrested for drunkenness in -1907 and 2,941 men. In 1904, 1,976 women were arrested for drunkenness. - -I don't suppose there is any city in the world where there is so much -drunkenness among women as there is in Dublin, except it be Glasgow and -Edinburgh, although the number of drunken men arrested is not so much -larger than the average in other cities of Europe and the United States. -And what is even more lamentable, the public is so hardened to the -repulsive spectacle that it does not attract as much curiosity as the -appearance of an ordinary drunken man upon the streets of Chicago or New -York. Women stagger from the doors of saloons along the sidewalks with -disheveled hair and disordered garments without attracting any attention -whatsoever. - -The Roman Catholic clergy are doing a great deal to suppress disorder -and promote temperance by prohibiting the use of liquor at wakes. -Cardinal Logue and the several archbishops and bishops are determined to -abolish the disgraceful orgies that have been so common on such -occasions, and have forbidden priests to officiate at funerals or even -to say masses for the souls of the dead where liquor is offered to the -neighbors and mourners who sit up with the corpse. Some of the bishops -require the remains to be brought to the church on the day before the -funeral. As a consequence, the scandalous custom of holding a carousal -the night before the funeral is almost entirely obsolete except in the -slums of the large cities and in remote rural districts. As a rule -throughout Ireland, where friends now gather to "sit up" with the corpse -as a token of respect and sorrow, they are furnished with no stronger -refreshments than tea. The teapot is placed upon the stove or upon the -peat fire and the mourners help themselves as they desire; but if a -bottle of liquor is passed around it is done with the greatest caution -for fear the priest will hear of it. - -Like the colored people of the United States, the peasants of Ireland -are possessed with an ambition to have "a fine funeral." Among the poor -this form of extravagance has been the cause of a great deal of distress -and privation, and formerly poor families often deprived themselves of -food to supply liquor that was consumed at the wake. This hospitable -custom, however, is rapidly passing away. - -The Irish Association for the Prevention of Intemperance is composed of -delegates from nearly all of the many temperance societies in Ireland, -both Roman Catholic, Church of Ireland, Nonconformist, and Independent. -There are many mutual benefit societies among workingmen which -affiliate, and various associations of women and children. For the -purpose of co-operation and economy and to avoid friction and -duplication of labor, this central organization has been formed, and -consists of one representative from every contributing society. The -general council meets three times a year, has a complete organization, -sends lecturers into the field, issues literature, makes investigations, -and has committees to look after legislation that concerns the liquor -traffic. - -The special work of the council is to secure temperance legislation and -the enforcement of laws that are already on the statute books, -especially the Sunday closing act and the law which forbids the sale of -liquor to minors. Another object is to encourage the formation of -temperance clubs throughout the country, to organize opposition to -applications for licenses, to promote meetings, to educate the people as -to the evils of the liquor traffic, and to create public sentiment -against it. It also has committees to encourage the establishment of -restaurants at which liquor is not sold, to encourage healthful -recreation, and to provide local amusements that will keep the men out -of the public houses. - -The president of the council is a Roman Catholic barrister; the -secretary is a Quaker; the vice-presidents include all of the Roman -Catholic and all of the Church of Ireland archbishops and several -bishops of both denominations, the president of the Methodist -conference, the president of the Maynooth College (Roman Catholic), the -provost of Trinity College, the moderator of the Presbyterian general -assembly, several earls and other members of the nobility, the leaders -of the Irish party in parliament, and several other gentlemen of equal -prominence and influence. - -"The Church of Ireland has a very strong organization," said Mr. Wigham, -"but, of course, it is not so strong or so extensive as that of the -Roman Catholics, because they constitute at least three-fourths of the -population of Ireland. The Presbyterians and Methodists are also well -organized and have a temperance society in every parish and connected -with every chapel. Our central organization is supported by them all, -and is entirely nonsectarian, as you will perceive upon examining our -list of officers. - -"Nearly all the temperance work in Ireland is done by religious -organizations, and whatever may be the differences of the denominational -leaders over theology and other matters, they are united and harmonious -in their opposition to the liquor traffic. I should say that the -influence of Maynooth College is greater than that of any other -institution. The temperance sentiment under the influence of President -Mannix is very strong there, and the students have a society called 'The -Pioneers,' the members of which take a pledge that they will abstain -from all intoxicating liquors during their entire life. No man can join -'The Pioneers' until after two years of probation, in order that he may -take the vows with his eyes wide open and with plenty of reflection; but -more than two-thirds of the priests that come out of that institution -are 'Pioneers.' - -"There has been a decided change in the habits of the priesthood of -Ireland during the last generation or two. Formerly it was not -considered improper, and, indeed, it was customary, for a priest to set -out a bottle and a glass for the refreshment of all visitors of -importance, and his parishioners would feel very much mortified if they -could not offer similar hospitality to the priest when he came to see -them. It was common for a priest to have wine and whisky on his table -and to linger with the rest of the guests at a dinner party when the -ladies had left the dining-room. But that is the exception nowadays. -Those customs are obsolete and most of the priests would as soon think -of offering a dose of poison to a parishioner as to hand him a bottle of -liquor. The old-fashioned rollicking parson has entirely disappeared -from both the Roman Catholic church and the Church of Ireland, and the -priesthood is at present composed almost entirely of earnest, devout -men, who abstain entirely from liquor and try to promote habits of -temperance among their parishioners. A majority of the bishops have -forbidden the use of liquor at wakes and will not allow anything -stronger than tea on those occasions. A majority of them will not -confirm a child that will not take a pledge of total abstinence until it -is twenty-one years of age. Some of them put the limit at twenty-five. A -great work is also being done by the Jesuits, the Capuchins, and the -Franciscans, who have been asked by the bishops recently to co-operate -in a great propaganda that is to include the entire island. - -"Dr. Walsh, the archbishop of Dublin, and other archbishops, have -recently undertaken to secure the closing of all saloons on St. -Patrick's day, and it is proposed to boycott the publicans who keep open -doors. Last year Archbishop Walsh published a pastoral in his diocese in -which he said, 'In certain districts, not a few of the licensed houses -for the sale of intoxicating drinks are still kept open on that day. -This continues to be done, although a number of the proprietors of -licensed houses, indeed the majority of them, closed their -establishments in honor of the holy festival of our national apostle. In -so doing they did their part toward securing the observance of the -national holy day that should not be marred by intemperance among the -people. It is lamentable that the efforts thus made in so good a cause -should be frustrated to a large extent by the selfish actions of those -members of the licensed trade who are setting the healthy public opinion -of the city at defiance and seem to make the praiseworthy action of -others an occasion of profit to themselves. A vigorous combined effort -should be made by the clergy to secure a general closing of licensed -houses on St. Patrick's day.' - -"This patriotic action of Dr. Walsh has had a decided effect upon the -celebration of St. Patrick's day," continued Mr. Wigham, "and it is now -more of a religious festival than an occasion for carousing. Several -other bishops have taken the same stand with similar results. - -"The labor party has also taken an advanced position in favor of -temperance legislation," continued Mr. Wigham. "At the annual meeting of -the labor unions last year a resolution was adopted in favor of local -option. The resolutions declare that 'the liquor traffic is a frightful -source of poverty, crime, and lunacy,' and demand a law 'giving the -inhabitants of every locality the right to veto any applications for -either the renewal of existing licenses or the granting of new ones, -seeing that public houses are generally situated in thickly populated -working class districts.' - -"The vote on the adoption of this resolution was 666,000 against -103,000. - -"The local option bill now pending before parliament applies to England -only," continued Mr. Wigham. "It does not affect Ireland, but we expect -to see the passage of a law prohibiting liquor to be taken from the -premises on which it is sold and also forbidding a man to use the wages -of his wife and children or to pawn the property of his family for -drink." - -"What is the drink bill of Ireland?" I asked, and in reply Mr. Wigham -gave me the following table showing the total expenditure and the _per -capita_ expenditure of the people of Ireland for liquor annually for the -last six years: - - Total. Per capita. - 1902 £14,257,751 £3 4s 5d - 1903 14,311,034 3 4s 10d - 1904 13,816,318 3 2s 10d - 1905 13,340,472 3 0s 10d - 1906 13,787,970 3 2s 10d - 1907 13,991,314 3 3s 10d - -The consumption of liquors in Ireland last year was as follows: - - Distilled spirits (gallons) 2,391,595 - Beer (barrels) 4,574,263 - Wine (gallons) 92,465 - Other liquors (gallons) 25,000 - --------- - Total 7,083,323 - Average gallons per capita 1,614 - -"The people of Ireland are drinking less spirits," continued Mr. Wigham, -"and more beer. Ten years ago, for example, they consumed 4,713,178 -gallons of spirits, which has been reduced to 2,391,595. During the same -time the consumption of beer has increased from 2,903,915 barrels to -4,574,263 barrels. - -"Last year, by the official statistics, the Guinness brewery in Dublin -produced 2,136,629 barrels of beer and other malt liquors, and paid -£2,092,000 duty to the government, an average of £3,000 a day. Alsopps -Company produced 1,125,178 barrels, another company 887,175 barrels, -still another 827,997 barrels; so you see that the manufacture of malt -liquors is very large and is increasing. Some people consider this a -great improvement, but it is still very harmful, and it is a startling -fact that the population of Ireland pay more money for whisky and beer -than they pay for rents or for food or for clothing. The total income of -the population of Ireland is given at £70,000,000, and, as you have seen -from the table I have given you, they spent last year £13,991,314 for -intoxicating drinks." - -The Guinness brewery is the largest establishment of the kind in the -world. The buildings cover fifty acres of ground; 3,240 men are employed -in them, and 10,000 people are dependent upon the wages paid. The -brewery was founded in 1759 by an ancestor of the present owner, and did -a purely local business until 1825, when the managers began to seek -trade in England and Scotland. They undertook to secure a foreign market -in 1860. At present the foreign trade is much larger than local -consumption. Last year the total sales amounted to 76,540,000 gallons, -which is an average of nearly two gallons _per capita_ for every -man, woman, and child in the kingdom. An average of 3,600 barrels -of stout are produced daily in one brewery and a new brewery has a -capacity of 2,100 barrels daily. The duty paid in 1907 was more than -$10,000,000--one-fourteenth of the entire revenue collected on liquor in -the United Kingdom. The cold storage capacity of the establishment is -200,000 hogsheads of beer of fifty-two gallons each. One vat will hold -1,700 hogsheads. The main warehouse contains an average of 1,000,000 -bushels of malt and similar amounts of other supplies are required. From -eight to ten thousand empty casks arrive at the wharf of Guinness & Co. -daily, chiefly from London, where all the beer, ale, stout, and porter -is sent by steamer in the wood to be bottled, and the fifteen hundred -new casks, required each week, are supplied by cooper shops on the -premises. The life of a cask averages ten years. - -Although there is a deplorable amount of intemperance in Ireland, and -according to the estimates of those who have made a study of that -subject, at least one-fifth of the earnings of the people are spent for -liquor, there is comparatively little crime. If the offenses growing out -of the land troubles were deducted the criminal statistics would be very -small and Ireland would rank, with Switzerland, Norway, and Denmark, -among the most orderly and peaceful countries on the globe. - -It may be said also that in comparison with the United States the -criminal statistics are very much in favor of Ireland. For example, -during the year 1906 there were only four murders in Ireland to eleven -in the District of Columbia, and only eleven assaults with dangerous -weapons in Ireland to fifty-three in the District of Columbia. During -the year 1907 there were eight murders in Ireland and eighteen in the -District of Columbia and only seventeen assaults with dangerous weapons -in Ireland to fifty-one in the District of Columbia, notwithstanding the -difference in population. The population of Ireland is 4,398,565, and -that of the District of Columbia is 317,380. - -During the year 1905 there were 9,728 persons indicted for crimes in -Ireland; in 1906 the total was 9,465, and in 1907 it was 9,418, or 2.2 -per 1,000 of the population. The same ratio is reported for 1897, and -the average for the ten years was 2.5 per 1,000. - -During the year 1906 there were 372 persons indicted for crime in the -District of Columbia, or 1.17 per 1,000 of population, and in 1907 there -were 381 indictments, or 1.20 per 1,000. - -During the year 1906 there were 4,922 indictments found in Chicago (Cook -County), with a population of 2,166,055, or less than one-half that of -Ireland, the ratio to population being 2.27 per 1,000. For the year 1907 -there were 4,699 indictments found in Chicago, which was 2.16 per 1,000 -of the population. - -In Ireland, however, at least one-fifth, and usually more of the -indictments, are for cattle driving, for attempts to burn crops, -hayricks, and stables, for killing and maiming cattle, and for writing -threatening letters. The authorities are very severe in their efforts to -suppress the land troubles, and sometimes half the population of a -village will be indicted for using popular methods of persuasion to -compel the large landowners to sell their farms. A great many -threatening letters are written, for which there is a heavy penalty, and -when some ranchman who has refused to divide up his pastures into farms -and sell them to the "landless" finds his fences broken down and his -cattle scattered all over the country, every suspected person is -indicted for moral effect. There are very few convictions. The people -who are engaged in the outrage will not testify against each other and -there are no other witnesses. - -In Ireland there are very few cases of robbery or burglary. Petty -larceny is the principal item in the list of offenses. Grand larceny, -embezzlement, forgery, and similar crimes are infrequent. - -The largest buildings in the county towns of Ireland are workhouses, -almshouses, and insane asylums, and they are always well filled. I -visited an insane asylum at Killarney, which is an enormous building, -well arranged and equipped with all modern conveniences, under the -direction of Dr. Edward Griffin, and surrounded by a beautiful garden -and hedges in the midst of an estate of sixty acres. It was opened in -1852. The number of inmates in 1908 was 619, of whom 299 were women and -320 men. During the last six or seven years the number of women has -largely increased. The average age of the inmates is about thirty years. -There are more young men than old men in the institution. Dr. Griffin -told me that many causes lead to insanity. Whisky, however, has little -to do with the condition of the inmates. In 1907 only five men and two -women were there for that cause. Tea has a large number of victims, -destroying the nervous system by excessive use. The largest proportion -come from the country districts, especially from the seacoast, -comparatively few from the towns and cities. The greatest number are of -the farming and laboring classes, who made up three-fourths of the -inmates received last year--common laborers and poor farmers with two -acres of land and two cows. Those from certain districts are generally -related, predisposition to insanity being manifest in many families. The -farming class, coming from the moors and mountains with their barren -soil and great privations, are inclined to insanity because of their -impoverished conditions of life. Their only food is often tea, bread, -and tobacco. The first treatment at the asylum is to give them plenty of -nourishing food and build them up. They are furnished meat every day -except Friday. Religious delusions have disturbed the minds of many who -fear that they are damned forever and cannot enter heaven. They are hard -to cure and the slowest of recovery. The influence of the chaplain in -these cases is most beneficial. Under his ministration they receive -temporary consolation, but after he has left they often relapse into -their former melancholy. - -The principal cause of insanity among those who come from the barren -moors and desolate mountains is not so much their isolated condition or -impoverished life, but their strange delusions. The mountain peasants -are very superstitious and imaginative. They believe in fairies and -bogies and hear strange voices in the air around them. They believe in -leprecawns, which are little men that come out of the ground. They -imagine that the fairies and goblins can come through the key-holes of -their rooms in the asylum; they are ever hearing strange voices and -seeing strange specters as they did upon the moors and mountains. - -Of both men and women now in the institution at Killarney more than two -hundred have come back to Ireland after a sojourn in America. The -superintendent says that the dissipations and excitement of their -experience in the United States have caused their mental breakdown after -the quiet life and habits of the early days in Ireland. But hereditary -predisposition exists in almost every case and in time would have caused -the same affliction even though they had remained at home. Hereditary -influence and generations of poverty and privation are the general -causes of insanity. Very few recoveries are found among those who have -been born of insane parents. Most of those dismissed are soon back -again, broken down as before by poor nourishment, poverty, and want. The -number of readmissions is very large. There are two chaplains, one of -whom is Rev. Mr. Madden of the Protestant Church of Ireland. There are -very few Protestant patients, however, only twenty being in the asylum -at present, the population of the district being largely Roman Catholic. -The Roman Catholic chaplain, Rev. D. O'Connor, is in constant -attendance. - - - - - XXVIII - - THE EDUCATION OF IRISH FARMERS - - -In connection with the breaking up of the big estates into small farms -and the introduction throughout Ireland of the system of peasant -proprietorship, the government has wisely provided for the education of -the farmers so that they may enjoy a larger reward for their labors. -There was some scientific farming on the large estates, but until -recently 95 per cent of the tenants throughout the country have been -simply scratching the land to raise a few potatoes and vegetables to -supply their tables and "laving the pig to pay the rint," as the saying -goes. But now things are different. A department of agriculture has been -organized, in some respects upon the lines of that in the United States, -and after frequent consultation between Sir Horace Plunkett, who was the -leader of the movement, and our own Secretary Wilson at Washington. The -question of agricultural education was taken up seriously, and what is -known as the "recess committee," formed by Sir Horace Plunkett, during -the winter of 1896, suggested a definite plan. The committee consisted -of himself, Lord Mayo, Lord Monteagle, John Redman, T.P. Gill, and -others. - -They presented to the government a project for state aid toward the -development of agriculture and mechanical industries with a minister -responsible to parliament in charge, assisted by two councils--one for -agriculture, the other for technical instruction, composed of gentlemen -in touch with public opinion and familiar with the weaknesses and the -requirements of the farmers and the small manufacturers. The act was -passed by parliament in 1899 and a capital sum of $1,000,000 and an -annual appropriation of $830,000 was made for its support. - -The department was promptly organized with Sir Horace Plunkett, the -leader of the movement, at its head, and various other branches of the -public administration not originally contemplated were placed under his -jurisdiction, including the quarantine of animals, the regulation of -railway freights on agricultural products, county fairs and markets, the -enforcement of the pure food and drugs laws, the fisheries, the -collection and publication of statistics, the suppression of frauds in -weights and in the sale of agricultural requirements and products, the -colleges of science and art, the art galleries, the Royal Museum and -library, and all technical education throughout the island. The -department very naturally took up first the work of aiding the -development and introducing improvements in agriculture, horticulture, -forestry, dairying, the breeding of horses, cattle, sheep, swine, -poultry, and bees; the protection of game and fish, the cultivation of -flax, home and cottage industries, such as spinning, weaving, -lace-making, and similar household arts; the improvement of cooking and -household economy, nursing, and various other occupations and industries -pertaining to the common people and of the utmost importance for their -health, happiness, and prosperity. - -An advisory council of one hundred and four members was formed, composed -mostly of landowners and farmers, with a few merchants and clergymen, -including the bishops of both the Roman Catholic Church and the Church -of Ireland, and a board of technical instruction of a similar character, -with several professional educators, the provost of Trinity College, the -Roman Catholic archbishop of Dublin, and representatives of the clergy -of the Presbyterian and other nonconformist churches. - -After considering the problem of technical education, which had never -been undertaken in Ireland to any extent, it was decided to commence by -introducing ordinary instruction in the common schools, and the sum of -$275,000 has annually been distributed, in proportion to population, -among the various counties to train children in the secondary schools of -the rural towns in trades and in the simple principles of the -cultivation of the soil, the breeding of cattle, and other practical -duties of farming life. In order to qualify teachers to give this -instruction summer schools were established at Dublin, Belfast, Cork, -and other central points, and in the cities evening schools were -provided for those who could make use of them. Faculties of experts were -employed for all these schools, and inspectors were sent about the -island inquiring into the methods and reporting upon the competency of -the teachers. - -The Metropolitan School of Art and the Royal College of Science, which -have been in existence at Dublin for many years, were re-organized on a -practical basis, inspired with new vitality, and brought into full -activity for the instruction of young men and women in various forms of -arts and handicrafts which were practiced by their ancestors for -centuries, but have long since been lost sight of or neglected. The -Science and Art Museum on Kildare Street, which was seldom visited -except by tourists, is now a live place, and every morning is filled -with young men and women eager to learn lace-making, designing, -decorating, and other arts and industries which have been allowed to -languish in Ireland. - -In connection with these schools instruction is given in domestic -economy, in the chemistry of cooking, in nursing, in dressmaking, -millinery, laundry work, and various other branches of domestic economy -which have never before been taught in Ireland. For the benefit of those -who cannot attend these schools twenty-nine itinerant instructors are -sent throughout the country to give instruction to the wives and -daughters of farmers and laborers, how to make the best use of foods and -how to practice other economies in household administration; how to -raise poultry and bees, do cottage gardening, the culture and the -preserving of fruit, and other practical domestic sciences. - -This is something entirely new in Ireland, and the reports of the -itinerant instructors and of the inspectors who have followed them to -observe their work have been most encouraging as regards the interest -taken by the younger women and girls and the improvement that has -already been made in the conditions of the households of the working -classes in the country, for these efforts are confined to the rural -districts. There has been some attempt at reforming the sanitary -conditions of the tenement houses of Dublin and other cities, but they -have scarcely gone beyond the experimental stage, for the task is -greater than the department would dare undertake at present. - -A large staff of itinerant instructors who are thoroughly posted and -trained in agricultural science are employed among the farmers, and -especially among those who have recently become the owners of small -farms under the Land Act of 1903. A sense of the responsibility of -proprietorship is being gradually developed. Heretofore those who have -occupied rented lands have had no incentive to improve them or even keep -them in good condition, because they never knew when they might be -evicted. But to-day one-third of the farmers in Ireland own the soil -they till, and when the government is able to furnish the money to pay -for purchases that have already been arranged one-half of the entire -number will have permanent homes and land of their own. Realizing this, -they are willing and in many cases eager to learn how to make the best -use of their possessions, how to get the largest returns for their -labor, and how to increase the value of their property. The demoralized -condition of the farming population caused by the frequent political -agitations has made instruction in these lines of economy useless until -recently; but now that the land wars are over and the causes for -agitation are being removed, and the farmers of Ireland are coming into -their own, they take a different view of life, and welcome every offer -of instruction that will enable them to improve their situation. - -The itinerant instructors are practical men. They work among the farmers -in the fields in the summer, and during the winter deliver lectures with -practical illustrations in the schoolhouses, the town halls, and other -convenient places. There have never been any agricultural schools in -Ireland, and it would be difficult to persuade the farmers to attend -them, even if they were established. Therefore the officials of the -department have undertaken their work with the children of the farms in -the secondary rural schools with the hope and confidence that the next -generation can be persuaded to follow up this rudimentary learning by -taking advanced courses in agricultural science. Indeed, many of them -have already done so. There are to-day one hundred and twenty-eight -young men, all of them sons of poor farmers, studying agricultural -science in different institutions of Ireland, and many of them are being -assisted financially to gain a technical as well as a practical -education. The department has provided a system of pecuniary aid so that -boys who have shown special aptitude in the secondary schools may pass -on to the agricultural college, and the reorganized college of science, -and even to the university. - -The itinerating instructors are introducing better varieties of -potatoes, grain, and other crops. They advise farmers as to the -selection of crops after making a chemical analysis of their soil; they -encourage the purchase of the best qualities of seed, show how it should -be planted, and conduct field experiments, inspect buildings and suggest -improvements, show how simple remedies can be applied to diseases of -live stock, explain the most approved methods of feeding dairy cattle -and butter-making, fattening chickens for market, egg packing, and other -little matters which are of the greatest value to those whose happiness -and prosperity depend upon the intelligent application of their labor. -In 1907, 8,394 farms were visited in this way by the instructors and -66,144 persons received instruction. More than two thousand lectures -were given, with an average attendance of sixty-seven. - -To improve the live stock of the country the department loans money to -competent farmers to purchase high-class stallions, bulls, rams, and -boars, and takes their notes to be paid in annual installments. Last -year eleven stallions, one hundred and thirty-five bulls, seventy-four -rams, and a proportionate number of other animals were purchased in that -way. And to encourage breeding it offers prizes for the best stock in -the different counties, of a sufficient value to be an inducement for -competition. It gives financial subsidies for the aid of stock, poultry, -horticultural and agricultural exhibitions, plowing matches, implement -trials, labor competitions, and for the best yields of potatoes, grain, -corn, and other staples. It offers prizes in the different counties for -the best gardens, the best kept poultry-yards, and the best butter, -which has excited a widespread interest and resulted in a general -advancement of conditions. - -As a result of prize competition a rivalry has sprung up among the -cottagers all over Ireland to improve the appearance and convenience of -their farms and buildings. The prizes are sufficiently large to make it -an object to keep their residences and stables in repair and neat and -clean, both inside and out. There is a similar improvement in cottage -gardens for the same reason. Last year more than $25,000 was given in -prizes in the different counties for the best kept cottages and house -gardens. - -The department is encouraging tobacco and flax growing, and a very fair -quality of tobacco is now being raised in Ireland. - -Special schools have been established for the instruction of creamery -managers and attendants, and the department has inaugurated a series of -inspections which are voluntary, but the certificate of the inspectors -adds considerably to the value of the butter in the market. Last year -359 creameries invited inspection, as compared with 166 in 1906 and 82 -in 1905. This indicates that the value of the inspectors' certificates -is becoming appreciated. - -Forestry operations are being undertaken also, and eighteen young men -are now under training for professional foresters. They are the first -that have ever been known in Ireland. - -If anyone should attempt to distribute the credit and honor that are due -to those who have accomplished the good and promoted the prosperity that -Ireland is now enjoying, he would find himself in serious trouble at -once. Rivalries are very keen. Nowhere else is partisanship so -pronounced and so intolerant. People of different political theories -and policies are seldom willing to concede honest motives to their -opponents. The leaders of the national party insist that all the -beneficial legislation that has been enacted by the British parliament -has been yielded reluctantly by the government, not from any interest in -the welfare of the Irish people, but solely to avoid a revolution. But I -am sure that no one will deny that Sir Horace Plunkett has been one of -the most active and disinterested and effective agents in bringing about -the great reforms that have been accomplished there within the last few -years. He rushes about like an American hustler, carrying out his plans -for the welfare of the farmers of Ireland with intense earnestness, -independent of public opinion, and as confident of his success as he is -of his integrity. He was described to me by one of his friends as "the -most transparently sincere man in the kingdom, thoroughly unselfish, -disinterested, and patriotic, and with a sanguine disposition that -nothing can discourage." He spends $10,000 a year from his own pocket in -his benevolent work, and while he was at the head of the agricultural -department he turned over his entire salary to the Irish Agricultural -Organization Society, of which he is the founder and the president. - -Sir Horace Plunkett is the son of the late Lord Dunsany of County Meath, -a very old Irish family, descended from the ancient Lords of the Pale, -who have lived in the same house for seven centuries and have had an -active part in the history of Ireland from the beginning of days. A -famous old Irish book called "The Annals of the Four Masters" says: -"There are many fierce barons in the Pale, and the traveler leaving -Dublin must pass between the Baron Killeen and the Baron Dunsany," and -Sir Horace referred to the reputation of his ancestors in a speech that -he made not long ago, as follows: - -"I was reared in one of those old castles of the Pale, almost under the -shadow of the Hill of Tara, where the Plunkett family for seven -centuries have managed to cling to the same house. Of course, in the -good old days, we fought for what we considered our rights, which was -to treat the inhabitants of the country as mere Irish and to avail -ourselves of their long-horned cattle without payment. I have never -started a new creamery without a sense of restitution for their little -irregularities. An old chronicle we have in the family runs thus: 'There -be in Meath two Lords Plunkett, a Lord of Killeen and a Lord of Dunsany, -and so it comes to pass that whoever can escape being robbed at Dunsany -will be robbed at Killeen--and whoever can escape being robbed at -Killeen will be robbed at Dunsany.' This shows that our family took an -interest in the tourist traffic in those days, though our methods of -developing it, judged by the polite standards of to-day, may appear -somewhat crude. You will notice also the germ of the co-operative idea." -(The point of this joke lies in the fact that Sir Horace Plunkett is the -originator and the most active leader in establishing co-operative -societies throughout the island.) - -He was educated at Eton and Oxford, and, when he got his degree, went to -the United States and bought a ranch in Wyoming, which he still owns in -partnership with former Senator Carey of that State. He also has large -interests in Nebraska and lived there for more than ten years. He keeps -up his acquaintance by annual visits. - -Sir Horace Plunkett came back from America to Ireland with his soul -stirred by patriotism and an ambition to do something to improve the -condition of his fellow countrymen. He realized the great disadvantages -under which they were laboring in their antiquated methods of farming, -their rude tools and their ignorance, and in 1894 proceeded to organize -a nonpolitical movement to improve their condition by carrying -instruction to them because they would not go anywhere to receive it. -His enthusiasm and his activities attracted the sympathy and assistance -of several other patriotic people, including Lord Monteagle and R.A. -Anderson, who was then collecting rents and looking after the tenants of -Lord Castledown. In 1894, their work having become too large to be -carried on by individuals, they organized the Irish Agricultural -Organization Society with about four hundred subscribers, mostly people -who were not connected with agriculture. With the exception of Lord -Monteagle, Colonel Everhart, Sir Henry Bellew, Sir Joslyn Bore Booth, -and a few others, the landlord class took little interest in the -movement, but they are beginning to recognize the value of the society -and are giving it more sympathy and support than formerly. - -R.A. Anderson, the permanent secretary of the society from the -beginning, told me the story as follows: - -"An adequate staff was first employed who went about among the farmers -holding meetings, delivering lectures, talking with them privately, -explaining the advantages of education and co-operation, and organizing -local societies in every county and district to co-operate with the -general society in Dublin. This work has been going on ever since until -we have now about ninety thousand members, mostly small landowners and -farmers, although in the southern counties we have several prominent -ones. - -"The next step was to organize co-operative creameries, the farmers -contributing the capital and sharing the returns, as in the United -States. They deliver their milk at the creameries every day and receive -credit tickets for it, which are settled once a month. This has proven -to be a great economy over the old plan, where each farmer made his own -butter at home, because it was badly made as a rule, brought a low -price, and kept down the reputation of the dairy industry in Ireland. We -have now in operation three hundred and fifty co-operative creameries to -which forty thousand farmers contribute. The butter is exported to -England and Scotland by the managers under the supervision of a -committee. The reputation of Irish butter has been restored. It commands -twenty-two cents a pound, about the same as the Danish butter, whereas -farm butter used to bring only fifteen or sixteen cents a pound, and it -is difficult to sell it even at that price in these days in competition -with the co-operative creameries. - -"We have introduced the most modern methods of butter-making and -machinery. Pasteurization is being generally adopted and our cooling -machinery permits the ripening of cream much more accurately and the -production of better butter with a lower per cent of moisture. The -creameries are setting an excellent example in planting ornamental -shrubs around the buildings and forest trees for shelter, while several -have laid out attractive gardens. These external signs of care and taste -make a favorable impression upon the public, and the creameries are -being constantly visited by people from all parts of the country. - -"Our next step was to organize societies among the farmers for the -co-operative purchase of supplies of various kinds, for the purchase of -seeds, manures, feeding stuffs, machinery, implements, carts, harness, -and everything a farmer needs but his live stock. We have one central -agency at Dublin acting for about two hundred local societies in -different parts of Ireland, representing about seventeen thousand -families, who buy everything they want in that way at much lower prices -than are charged by the local dealers. They are always sure of getting -wholesale prices, the best quality of articles, and there is no -possibility of being swindled. Every buyer gets what he orders, which is -very important, particularly if it concerns seeds. A farmer who wants a -machine or a lot of seeds or a new kind of potatoes, or a cart, or -anything else, fills up a blank prepared for that purpose, posts it to -the secretary of the society, and the latter orders the article from the -central agency, to be paid for upon shipment in cash. This co-operative -movement has been a tremendous success and is entering directly into the -lives of the people. - -"The next step," continued Mr. Anderson, "was to organize co-operative -credit societies from which farmers who are members may borrow money at -low rates and keep out of the hands of the 'gombeen men'--the Celtic -word for usurer--who bleed their clients in a merciless manner. The -loans are made for productive purposes only--to buy better machinery, -more cattle, sheep, swine, and horses, seeds and manures, and other -things of tangible value. We do not loan money to pay debts or fines, or -to get wild boys out of trouble, or to pay blackmail, or to provide -dowries for marriageable daughters. All these things are prohibited, and -the managers look to it that not a penny of the society's money is -invested in any speculative enterprise. There are 270 of these -Agricultural Co-operative Credit Societies in Ireland under the -supervision of our organization with about 20,100 members, and they -handle an average of $300,000 in loans averaging not more than $25, -which amount shows that they are serving the purpose for which they were -intended--to help the small farmer to improve his condition. - -"It is quite remarkable," said Mr. Anderson, "that none of these -societies has ever lost a penny. They are managed by committees -appointed by the members, who borrow their capital from joint stock -banks upon the individual and joint indorsement of the board--each -individual being responsible. They get the money for four per cent and -loan it for five or six per cent, thus leaving a margin which pays the -expenses and leaves a surplus which is carried to a reserve that may -also be lent out. These societies also receive deposits from their -members and other people in the district and pay three per cent -interest, the same as the savings banks. They sometimes obtain loans of -£50 to £100 from the Department of Agriculture or the Congested -Districts Board at three per cent, which they loan to their members in -small amounts at from five to six per cent interest. Last year they got -about $60,000 from those two sources. - -"The great advantage of these credit societies, in addition to keeping -their members out of the clutches of the gombeen men, is to teach them -the proper use of credit, the difference between borrowing to make and -borrowing to spend, to promote thrift by giving a fair interest upon -deposits, to encourage sobriety and industry and to teach a sense of -responsibility and the value of reputation, because a man's character is -the sole qualification to membership, and everybody wants to get in. To -be admitted to membership is an indorsement that is very highly -regarded, and when a man is in his neighbors look after him. - -"There are various other co-operative societies," continued Mr. -Anderson. "Last year we organized thirty-two new co-operative credit -societies, twenty-two co-operative purchasing societies, twelve -co-operative creameries, five flax societies to encourage the -cultivation and handling of flax, and six co-operative bacon-curing -factories, where farmers can send their hogs to be slaughtered and cured -in a proper manner, which enables them to get a quick sale and a higher -price for their pork. We also organized a large number of co-operative -poultry societies to promote the raising of hens and chickens, the -shipment and sale of eggs and poultry, so that the farmers can get -better prices, have reliable selling agencies, lower freight rates, and -sure collections. Eggs are sold here by weight instead of by the dozen, -so that people who raise large eggs have the advantage. The eggs are all -tested, graded, and packed according to the continental system, which we -prefer to the cardboard arrangements which you use in the United States. -These co-operative poultry societies are improving the breeds of hens, -are teaching the members how to raise poultry, protect it from diseases, -and make the best use of the feed. This is a very important industry, -and we have brought it up so that now the average revenue from twenty -hens is equal to that from one cow. - -"The farmers' wives are also taught how to raise bees, although for the -last few years there has been no money in them. We have had the worst -years on record for honey. - -"The latest attempt of the Irish Agricultural Organization Society is to -introduce co-operation among the small farmers who have recently come -into the ownership of their lands to assist each other in building more -comfortable homes for themselves and better buildings for their cattle -and the storage of their crops. This is in the line of self-help and -mutual aid among neighbors and furnishes employment for many days during -the winter season which otherwise would be spent in idleness. The most -economical building material we have here now is cement blocks, which -are easily made with a little instruction, and we are sending around -instructors to show the farmers how to utilize their spare time in the -winter in making a sufficient number of blocks of this artificial stone -to build the walls of a house in the spring. The neighbors can then get -together and help each other put them in place under the direction of -the instructor of the society, just as your pioneers in America used to -help each other put up their log cabins. There is a universal desire and -ambition on the part of the two hundred and fifty thousand farmers who -have recently become the owners of their places under the Land Act of -1903 to improve their dwellings, and the Irish Agricultural Organization -Society is doing a great deal to encourage them in this way." - - - - - XXIX - - LIMERICK, ASKEATON, AND ADARE - - -Limerick looks like a medieval city, and it is one of the oldest in -Ireland. There is an old tower that was built seven centuries ago, and -portions of walls forty feet high and thirty-six feet thick which date -back to the time of King John in the twelfth century. The castle is one -of the finest Norman fortresses yet remaining in the kingdom and -overlooks the River Shannon in a most formidable manner. The ancient -gate is carefully retained and there is a bridge across the river -approaching it that might have been built by the Romans. The Shannon is -a good deal of a river, and has been walled in with cut stone and wide -quays that are equipped with modern machinery for loading and unloading -vessels, although there isn't much commerce. Occasionally a steamer -loaded with coal arrives, but there is no regular traffic, and we saw a -big four-masted bark discharging a cargo of wheat that was brought all -the way around Cape Horn from California and will be ground up in the -mills of Limerick, because it is cheaper to bring it that distance than -to raise wheat on the farms in that vicinity. It seems incredible, -because there is so much land given up to pastures that might be plowed -and sowed with grain. We rode about Limerick County in an automobile for -several days and didn't see a wheat field,--not one,--although there are -several flour mills in the immediate neighborhood. In two grocery stores -where I inquired they told me that they handled American flour or flour -from American wheat almost exclusively, and that they were selling a -good deal of bacon from the Chicago packing-houses, which also seems -strange, because Limerick bacon is supposed to be the best in the world, -and three big establishments, employing several hundred men, do nothing -but cure bacon and hams. Each slaughters about ten thousand hogs a -week, which doesn't seem a very large business in comparison with that -of the packing-houses of Chicago, Omaha, and Kansas City, but there it -is something to brag about. Limerick bacon brings the highest price in -the London market and sells at three or four cents a pound more than -that which is imported from Chicago. In order to realize the difference -the people of the city are willing to ship their bacon to England and -eat the Chicago product. - -Limerick is also the center of a large butter trade and has the biggest -condensed milk factory in the kingdom, using the milk of ten thousand -cows daily, which is gathered morning and evening by enormous motors -that go thundering around the roads like Juggernauts. They look like -steam-rollers, and are built the same way with four wheels that have -tires more than a foot wide, and they serve a double purpose by rolling -the roads daily while they are hauling in the milk. Each of these -ponderous vehicles carries a large tank that will hold a hundred gallons -of milk and hauls a trailer that carries two tanks of similar size, thus -making about three hundred gallons to the load, but it makes noise -enough for ten thousand gallons. The big tanks are painted white and the -machines are polished like the knockers on the front doors of the -Limerick houses. There are three of these machines, which start out at -daylight in the morning, and each goes in a different direction, picking -up the milk that is left in cans by the farmers at convenient cross-road -stations. When the tanks are all filled the Juggernaut comes rumbling -into town, making more noise than the railroad train, discharges its -load at the condensed milk factory, and then starts out in another -direction. - -Limerick has a population of about forty thousand, which has been -reduced from fifty thousand during the last ten or twelve years by -emigration to America; and, as we find it the case everywhere, all the -young men who can get money enough to pay their steamship fares are -emigrating. Many young women go also, and "the best blood of the country -is lost to us," one of the priests remarked. The city has not increased -in numbers for centuries. It has merely held its own, and some -historians contend that it had more population five hundred years ago -than it has now. It was founded before the beginning of history. - -In 1168 lived and reigned Donald O'Brien, the last king of Limerick. He -was fifth in descent from Brian Boru, and was among the first to swear -allegiance to the Norman invader, King Henry of England, when the latter -arrived, permitting an English governor to be placed in possession of -the city. But after King Henry returned to England, Donald O'Brien lost -no time in renouncing allegiance and declaring his independence. And -from that time he fought the English with great energy until his death -in 1194, after a reign of twenty-six years of almost continuous -conflict. However, King Donald found time and money during the intervals -of his wars to erect a splendid old church that still stands and is -called St. Mary's, the Protestant Cathedral of the Church of Ireland. He -erected several other churches and monasteries in Limerick County which -bear witness to the religious zeal of Donald O'Brien. The ruins at -Cashel, which are the most extensive in all Ireland, are reminders of -his piety, energy, and generosity in the Christian propaganda. He is -supposed to have been buried in St. Mary's Cathedral, and the most -ancient and noteworthy monument in that venerable temple is a -brown-stone slab covered with a Celtic cross and inscription that is -supposed to be the lid of his coffin. This monument originally stood on -the grounds outside the church and was moved inside in 1860. - -On the other side of the chapel in which this precious relic is -preserved is a monument erected to the memory of the soldiers of the -Eighty-fifth Regiment of the King's Light Infantry who have died in -battle. And above it hang the flags which that regiment has carried -during the last two hundred years, including the Crimean war, the South -African, the war in Spain, the war against Napoleon, and the war for -independence in the United States. Upon one of these flags is inscribed -the name "Bladensburg," the battle, or rather skirmish, that was fought -a few miles from Washington in 1813, and it was this regiment which -entered the city and burned the capitol, then unfinished, the White -House, and the navy yard. Gen. Frederick Maunsell, who commanded the -regiment at that time, is buried near by. - -The old church was restored very carefully between 1879 and 1892 under -the direction of the dean, Very Rev. Thomas Bunbury, D.D. The work has -been admirably done at an expense of about $50,000, which was -contributed by members of the parish and natives of Limerick, who are -interested in preserving its antiquities. The present dean is Very Rev. -Lucius Henry O'Brien, a son of that famous Irish patriot, William Smith -O'Brien, who was sentenced to be hanged, drawn, and quartered for -treason in the revolution of 1848, but fortunately escaped that -barbarous penalty. - -An interesting volume has been written concerning St. Mary's Cathedral -and its history and the curious tombs that are found under its roof. -Some of the epitaphs are unique. Here is one: - - "Johne Stretche, Aldermane, third son too Bartholomewe - This monument made in Febrarye most true, - Wher he and his heyres males resight theyre mortalle bons - Tyll Chryste do come to judge all mans atte ons." - -Another curious inscription upon a gravestone two feet square reads: - - "Fifteen years a mayd, one year a wyfe, - Two years a mother, then I left this life. - Three months after me mine offspring did remain, - Now earth to earth we are returned again." - -And here is still another in memory of Geoffrey Arthur, treasurer of the -cathedral, who died in 1519: - - "Do thou excite the solemn train, - And with the doleful trumps proclaim - Eight times the mournful story - Then to Eana oblation make - Of eight prayers for the sake - Of his soul in pergatory." - -One of the bishops of the eighteenth century, named Adams, is buried in -the church, and his monument consists of two slabs, one above and the -other below a space which was evidently intended to contain a bust. On -either side the emblems of the passion--the reed, the spear, the -scourge, and the crown of thorns--are engraved, and after the name and -biographical information are the lines: - - "Sufficient God did give me, which I spent; - I little borrowed and as little lent; - I left them whom I loved enough in store, - Increased the bishoprick, relivd the poore." - -One of the tombs contains this laconic epitaph: - - "Dan Hayes, - An honest man, - And a lover of his country." - -The bells of St. Mary's Cathedral at Limerick are famous for their sweet -tones, and a very pretty story is told about them. It is said that they -were cast in Italy at the expense of a rich Italian and presented to a -monastery in Italy. In a few years the monks became very poor and sold -their bells to the Bishop of Limerick for money to relieve their -immediate distresses. The Italian nobleman who had given them also met -with misfortune and became a wanderer over the earth. Coming up the -Shannon River from a long ocean voyage one day, the first sound that -greeted him was the chimes from St. Mary's tower. He instantly -recognized the bells, the pride and the joy of his heart, and tried in -vain until his death to recover them. - -Although this story is touching, it is not true. The history of the -chimes is perfectly well known. They were cast in that city about 1660 -by William Perdue, a resident of Limerick, who is buried in the -cathedral with an appropriate epitaph: - - "Here is a bell founder, honest and true - Until the ressurection lies Perdue. - William Perdue - Obiat III X Xbris Ao. Dini MDCLXXIII." - -The royal capital of the O'Briens is often known as "The City of the -Violated Treaty." It was stoutly defended against Cromwell's army in -1651 by Hugh O'Neill, but after a six months' siege it was captured by -General Ireton, the son-in-law of Cromwell, who became governor until -his death of the plague the year following. The house in which Ireton -lived and died stood next to the cathedral. It was torn down some years -ago and the site added to the cathedral grounds. - -Limerick was also besieged in 1691 during the war between James II and -William of Orange. The latter captured the city with an army of -twenty-six thousand men and made a treaty with Gen. Patrick Sarsfield, -who surrendered Oct. 3, 1691. The ninth article of the treaty of -surrender provided that Roman Catholics could enjoy the same privileges -as Protestants and were given immunity for all religious offenses in the -past. This article, however, was repeatedly violated by the Protestant -authorities, although it was no fault of William of Orange. His -representatives made it so hot for the Catholics who had served under -James that they fled from Ireland for France and formed the Irish -brigade that was so famous in continental wars during the next twenty -years. Sarsfield, who was one of the ablest and bravest soldiers Ireland -has ever produced, was killed in battle in 1693, and it is estimated -that during the next half century four hundred and fifty thousand other -Irishmen died fighting for the King of France. - -A monument to Patrick Sarsfield has been erected near the Roman Catholic -Cathedral with the following inscription: - - "To commemorate - the Indomitable Energy - and stainless honor of - General Patrick Sarsfield, - Earl of Lucan, - the heroic defender of Limerick - during the sieges of 1690 and 1691. - - "Sarsfield is the word, - And Sarsfield is the man. - 'T would be a shame to let his name - Like other names decay." - -[Illustration: TREATY STONE, LIMERICK] - -The treaty of Limerick was drawn by Sir John Browne, a colonel in the -service of King James and the first Marquis of Sligo. It was signed upon -a large flat stone which now stands upon a pedestal at the entrance to -the ancient bridge that crosses the Shannon River. - -The women of the poorer classes in Tipperary and Limerick wear heavy -woolen shawls made at Paisley, Scotland, and costing from five to ten -dollars, according to the quality. They wear them over their heads in -place of hats, and although it was very hot while we were there, it made -no difference; they go around with their heads hidden in their shawls, -as the Spanish women wear mantillas; and most of them are barefooted. -Tipperary was the first place in Ireland where we saw barefooted women -in the streets, and it isn't an agreeable sight. We saw more in -Limerick, and it was still less agreeable. The workingmen do not go -barefooted, although many of them have shoes very much the worse for -wear, but it seems to be the custom for the wives and mothers and -daughters of the working classes to go about without shoes or stockings -and with heavy shawls over their heads, which, like charity, cover a -multitude of sins and other things. Their dresses are tattered at the -bottom and often ragged and always greasy, and their hair, so far as it -can be seen under the shawls, is very untidy, which gives them a -disreputable and repulsive appearance, so different from the women we -saw at Drogheda, Wexford, Waterford, Cork, Blarney, and other places we -had been to. - -There is no occasion for the women of Limerick to dress as they do, -because the town is prosperous and it used to boast of the reputation of -having the prettiest girls in Ireland. Some poet who knew them long ago -has written thus: - - "The first time me feet got the feel of the ground - I was sthrollin' along in an old Irish city, - That hasn't its aquail the whole wurrld around, - For the air that is swate and the gurrls that are pretty. - And the lashes so thick round thim beautiful eyes - Shinin' to tell you its fair time o' day wid 'em. - Back in me heart wid a koind of sorprise - I think how the Irish girls has th' way wid 'em." - -Judging from what we saw on the streets, at church, and in the parks on -a Sunday, when all the feminine population of Limerick seemed to be out, -we would think that the beauties had gone to America with the fairies. - -There is "the Irish town" and "the English town" in Limerick, and -between them is a good deal of animosity, which has continued for -several hundred years and probably never will be entirely removed. The -old castle built by King John in 1205, when the British first occupied -Limerick, and considered one of the finest specimens of Norman military -architecture in existence, is now used as an ordnance store for the -military garrison. There is a romantic story associated with the old -town and I cannot resist the temptation of telling it. - -Toward the beginning of the ninth century the Danish King of Limerick, -Turgesius, by name, who occupied a fortification that stood upon the -site of the present castle, fell in love with the daughter of Malachi, -the King of Meath--the same who - - "Wore the collar of gold - Which he won from the proud invader." - -Turgesius demanded her hand in marriage and Malachi, who was not in very -good shape for a fight, dare not deny him. The girl, however, had her -wits about her and suggested to her timid father a plan to outwit the -odious lover. At her suggestion he entreated Turgesius that his daughter -might be received by him privately and at night, and promised to send as -her attendants fifteen of the most celebrated beauties of his kingdom. -The arrangement was acceptable, and, at the appointed time, the princess -and her fifteen ladies-in-waiting arrived at Limerick and were conducted -to the apartments of the king, who was eagerly awaiting them. When -Turgesius took the princess in his arms the fifteen ladies-in-waiting -immediately threw off their disguise and the astonished king of Limerick -saw before him fifteen of the stoutest and bravest of the Irish -chivalry, each with a flashing sword in his hand. Before he could -recover from his astonishment Turgesius was seized and bound, his -guards were surprised, and the gates of the fortress were opened to -Malachi and the men of Meath, who massacred the entire garrison and -thereafter ruled in Limerick. - -The migration to America from County Limerick has been very large and -every person we have met has one or more relatives in the United States. -Every family is represented there and those who have not gone are -anxious to go. Each spring and summer quite a number of young people -return to their old homes, and the airs they put on and the raiment they -wear are very amusing. We saw them at the railway stations, at church, -on the streets, and elsewhere, surrounded by admiring and envious -friends. - -More laborers' cottages have been erected by the government in County -Limerick than in any other part of Ireland, and more are being built all -the time. Any laboring man who wants a home of his own need only to make -application for the assistance of the commissioner of the poor and -express his preference for a site. The commissioners are not required to -accept his choice, but usually do so when there is no particular -objection, and he is entitled to an acre of ground for a garden. After -certain legal preliminaries are fulfilled, they erect for him a -two-story, five-room cottage, costing about $750, with an outhouse for -fuel, storage, and the accommodation of a cow. They inclose the property -in a stout fence and turn it over to the new owner without the -expenditure of a farthing on his part. He, however, undertakes to -reimburse the county for the investment it has made in his behalf at the -rate of 3-1/4; per cent of the cost price, which usually amounts to about -thirty dollars a year. The laboring class of no other country is so well -treated. - -Before I left Washington a highly esteemed friend, and one of the most -charitable and public-spirited citizens of that city, intrusted me with -a mission which was fulfilled as soon as possible after arriving in -Limerick. It was to leave with the parish priest of his native village -of Askeaton a generous sum of money for the benefit of the poor, and you -may imagine the pleasure that attended our visit there for that reason. -Askeaton is an ancient village of seven or eight hundred inhabitants -about twenty miles from Limerick, where the River Deel tumbles over -ledges of rocks into the Shannon and forms a series of cascades, which -make it the second best water-power in Ireland and perpetuates the name -of a Celtic chieftain, concerning whom nothing else is known. - -We went down in an automobile, visiting several other places of interest -by the way, passing Donmore, the seat of the Earl of Limerick, an -ancient ruin in which a holy hermit lived several centuries ago, Dysart -House, the seat of the Earl of Dysart, and a beautiful place called -Holly Park, where resided a queer man by the name of Taylor. He -inherited a fine farm and considerable wealth, but lived a bachelor -until he was sixty years old, when he married his cook. There was -nothing wrong with him except a mania for buying coats, and he used to -haunt the second-hand stores of Limerick, Dublin, London, and wherever -else he happened to go, picking up all the queer patterns and colors -that he could find. He spent most of his time brushing and cataloguing -them, and when he died last spring more than five thousand coats were -found hanging on racks in the upper rooms and the attic of Holly Park. -It took three big wagons to carry them away, for his wife, the former -cook, got rid of them as soon after the funeral as she could arrange -for. - -Askeaton used to be a place of some importance, and at one time returned -two members of parliament, but it has lost population and trade, and -many years ago the franchise was taken away and the sum of $75,000 was -paid as indemnity to Lord Massey, who controlled the suffrages. It isn't -far from the sea and there is a good deal of fishing, although -agriculture is its chief dependence. There is a carbite factory owned by -John B. Hewson, and a big flour mill, which, however, is idle because -the people find it cheaper to buy American flour. The farmers here -cannot compete with California wheat. They told me that it is more -profitable to raise potatoes for market and turnips for cattle. - -Askeaton has one irregular street and old-fashioned houses of brick and -mortar, hugging closely to the walls of an ancient castle which was the -stronghold of the earls of Desmond and the scene of much fighting in -ancient times. It is one of the largest ruins in Ireland, a monstrous -pile covering more than two acres, and the walls of stone, now standing, -are more than ninety feet high and ten to fifteen feet thick. The great -hall measures ninety by thirty feet and is lighted by four great windows -in a fair state of preservation. Over the first arch from the stairway -is a small chamber measuring eight by seven feet, called "Desmond's -prison," in which Gerald, the twelfth Earl of Desmond, imprisoned by -Edmond MacTeig, who contested his succession, "for six years pined in -captivity, shut up in the castle of Askeaton, till his release, which -was obtained by the intercession of his wife, who was related to -Edmond." A battlemented wall surrounds the entire structure, which could -be entered only by a narrow pathway cut through the rock so that any -attempt to force an entrance would be impossible. - -Askeaton Abbey, which was founded under the protection of the castle for -the Franciscan monks in 1420, by the seventh Earl of Desmond, is only a -few steps distant, and, judging from the huge masses of masonry, it must -have been an extensive and solid structure. Some of the walls are twenty -feet thick and the lightest are four feet and a half thick. It is kept -with great care by the board of public works and the cloister is -remarkably perfect, being inclosed by twelve pointed arches of black -marble. It was destroyed at the same time as the castle, and many of the -monks were murdered by the Irish troops under the Earl of Ormonde and -Sir Henry Pelham. In 1641 an attempt was made to restore the abbey to -its former magnificence, but it was abandoned shortly afterward. - -The parish church, which stands upon a hill on the edge of the village, -was built by the Knights Templar, who had an establishment at Askeaton -dating from the thirteenth century, but nothing remains of it now but a -curious tower in the churchyard. - -With Sergeant Quirk, the head constable, we inspected the ruins under -the very best auspices, and I found Father Edmond Tracy, the parish -priest, a most charming companion. He is an ideal type of the Irish -priesthood, a man of culture, learning, and charming personality. He -accepted the trust I was instructed to place in his care and told me -that, although Askeaton was fairly prosperous and the people of the -neighborhood parish were well to do, he frequently had appeals for -charity that the scanty revenues of the church made difficult for him to -respond to. - -Upon our way back to Limerick we stopped at Adare, which is considered -the model village and belongs to the Earl of Dunraven, who has the -enviable reputation of being one of the best landlords in Ireland. The -village of Adare has about six hundred people living in model cottages, -which he and his father built for them, with vegetable and flower -gardens and everything that an Irish peasant could ask for, including -both Roman Catholic and Protestant churches. The former was once "The -White Abbey," founded by the Augustinians in 1230 and restored by the -Earl of Dunraven in 1811 with great care. A portion of the monastery has -been rebuilt for a national school and given to the Roman Catholics. The -neighboring Franciscan Abbey, founded in 1315, was restored for use as -the Protestant church in 1807. The Earl of Dunraven who lived in those -days built a family mausoleum in connection with it, and turned the -refectory of the monks into a schoolhouse for Protestant children. -Although the earls of Dunraven have been members of the Church of -Ireland, they have been generous and frequent benefactors of the Roman -Catholic church, and there seem to have been successive generations of -wise, thoughtful, and considerate men in that family. - -[Illustration: ADARE ABBEY, IN THE PRIVATE GROUNDS OF THE EARL OF -DUNRAVEN, NEAR LIMERICK] - -The house of Dunraven enjoys the proud distinction of being one of the -few of the ancient Celtic aristocracy to survive the vicissitudes of the -centuries. The earl traces his lineage back to the chief of the -Dalcassian clan of prehistoric days. He is of the same stock as the -O'Briens of Limerick, who have a common ancestor in Cormac Cas, son -of Olliol Olum, monarch of all Ireland at the beginning of the third -century. And the present earl has a curious and interesting letter -written by Thady Quin of Adare in the time of James I., giving the -complete pedigree. - -Adare Manor, as the estate of the Dunravens is known, is one of the most -extensive and beautiful in Ireland. There is a stately mansion of the -Tudor school of architecture, begun in 1832, upon the site of a former -residence of the family and built entirely of material found upon the -estate, by artisans of Adare. The material is gray limestone, relieved -by blocks of red, and the striking feature is a tower which rises one -hundred and three feet from the level of the ground. The stone work of -the parapet which surmounts the front façade is inscribed in old English -letters with the text, "Except the Lord build the house, their labor is -in vain that build it." The late earl seemed to be fond of inscriptions, -for over the main entrance is carved in stone this admonition: "Fear -God, honor the Queen, eschew Evil and do Good," while upon a panel set -into the front wall is the coat of arms of the Dunravens and the -inscription: - - "This goodly Home was erected by - Wyndham Henry, Earl of Dunraven, - And Caroline, his Countess - Without borrowing, selling or leaving a debt." - -"This goodly home" is surrounded by one of the finest parks in the -world--about three thousand acres of glorious native forests, meadows, -and pasture lands, all inclosed within a high wall. There are lakes and -ponds and a roaring brook whose waters alternately dash over cascades -and lie spread out in calm pools where trout and salmon can be seen -motionless upon the bottom under the shadows cast by the overhanging -trees. Roadways several miles in length reach every part of the demesne -and permit views of the most picturesque portions of the scenery. They -cross and recross the river over ancient bridges and through undulating -pastures where the famous Dunraven herds are feeding, and follow long -avenues between colonnades of very old trees. - -There are several interesting ruins within the demesne, including those -of the ancient castle of Adare, which was built some time before 1331, -because a record of that date gives a description of its appearance. It -was afterward strengthened and enlarged, and for several centuries was -one of the most formidable strongholds in all Ireland. It was from this -castle in 1520 that the Earl of Kildare, viceroy of Ireland, left for -London to answer charges brought against him by Cardinal Wolsey, by whom -he was imprisoned in the Tower. - -There are ruins of several monasteries which also date back to the -fourteenth century and are kept in perfect order. The most beautiful was -once a monastery of the Franciscan order, and is within a step of the -mansion, in the midst of the golf links. - -The present Earl of Dunraven, Windham Thomas Wyndham-Quin, was born in -1844, educated at Eton and Christ Church College, Oxford, and in 1870 -married Florence, daughter of Lord Charles Lennox Kerr, a member of -parliament from County Wexford. Dunraven is one of the most active and -versatile men in the kingdom, and is almost as well known in the United -States, being soldier, sailor, horseman, sportsman, yachtsman, explorer, -politician, newspaper correspondent, author, antiquarian, economist, and -historian. After receiving his degree at Oxford Dunraven served for -several years in the Life Guards, and in 1871 resigned upon succeeding -to the title and estates. While he was in the army he gained the -reputation of being the best steeple-chase rider in the kingdom. Upon -leaving the army he became a correspondent of the _London Daily -Telegraph_ and represented that paper in an expedition to Abyssinia and -during the Franco-Prussian war. He then went into politics and was under -secretary for the colonies during two of Lord Salisbury's -administrations. He then went into parliament and made a reputation as -chairman of committees on the sweating system and the housing of the -working classes. He devoted much time and attention to horse breeding -and has a stock farm adjoining his estate at Adare with "Desmond," the -most famous stallion in the kingdom, at the head of his stud. He has -been offered $150,000 for the horse. - -In 1874 Dunraven went to the United States with his wife and spent -nearly a year in the Rocky Mountains hunting big game and exploring and -climbing peaks and shooting buffaloes with General Sheridan and Buffalo -Bill. He wrote a book giving an account of his experience. He then took -up the Irish question, went into it very deeply, and has retained his -interest until now. He has written several books on the land question -and the other economic problems of Ireland. He has been a prolific -contributor to the magazines, and was the inventor of what is known as -the "devolution policy" as a substitute for home rule in Ireland, which -Sir Antony MacDonnell worked up into the so-called "Irish councils -bill," which proposed to give home rule in every respect except the -courts, police, and legislation. His lordship went through Ireland -making speeches in favor of the project, but the leaders of the Irish -parliamentary party declined to accept it and it fell to the ground. - -The Earl of Dunraven is best known in the United States, however, as a -yachtsman. For several years he was the leader of that sport in England, -and in 1893, 1894, and 1895 sailed for the _America's_ cup with three -successive yachts named _Valkyrie_. The third contest was a fiasco, as -may be remembered. Lord Dunraven published a pamphlet setting forth his -side of the controversy, which created a great sensation. His lordship -has made a thorough study of the archæology of this section of Ireland, -and has written several interesting volumes on the subject. - - - - - XXX - - COUNTY GALWAY AND RECENT LAND TROUBLES - - -County Clare and County Galway are the districts of the greatest unrest -in Ireland; and the largest number of boycotts, cattle drives, and -evictions have occurred there of late years because certain large -landowners, chief of whom is the Earl of Clanricarde, stubbornly refuse -to sell their estates under the Land Act of 1903 or restore the tenants -they have evicted or divide up their pastures into farms. The Earl of -Clanricarde carried the matter into court, where he was sustained in his -refusal to sell, on the ground that the law is not compulsory, and it is -probable that parliament will adopt an amendment, now pending and -introduced since the decision, requiring every large landowner in -Ireland to divide up his estates among his tenants at prices to be fixed -by the courts. - -The disturbances that are taking place at present are gentle and mild -compared with what have occurred during the land wars of the past, and -they are confined to a limited area and a small number of estates. The -methods of "persuasion" used by the tenants and the "landless" men, as -those who are entirely without farms are called, are, however, very much -the same as those adopted years ago, but they are not so effective as -they used to be. They are severely punished by the courts, and the -taxpayers are assessed for all the damages committed. If these -assessments could be confined to the particular parish within which the -outrages occur it would be very much better, for it is not fair to ask -innocent property owners twenty and thirty miles from the scene to pay -for the mischief of a few reckless and irresponsible persons over whom -they have no control. - -County Limerick is usually quiet. There has been no trouble there and -the best of feelings prevail between the landlords and their tenants, -with a few exceptions. There was only one criminal case (of infanticide) -at the dockets of the courts in July, 1908, when I was there, two -boycotts, and twenty-one complaints of intimidation, which, however, did -not all relate to land matters. There were thirty-four evictions in -County Limerick that year, most of them being due to poor crops and the -lack of remittances from America. - -Lough Rea, the seat of the Clanricarde, has been the residence of that -family since the year 1300. Althenry, the neighboring town, is also very -old, and has belonged to the earls of Clanricarde since 1238. There is a -castle, a Dominican monastery, a Franciscan monastery, and several -churches, all in ruins, destroyed by Red Hugh O'Donnell in 1596. The -Earl of Clanricarde never visits his Irish property. He has never -occupied his ancestral home and has been seen in the vicinity but once -since he came into the inheritance thirty or forty years ago. - -The boycott was invented at the little town of Ballinrobe, a pretty -village of about fifteen hundred inhabitants, on Lough Mask, about -twenty miles north of Galway. Charles S. Parnell made a speech at Ennis, -the capital of County Clare, Sept. 19, 1880, advising the people to -punish those who did not sympathize with them by "isolating them from -their kind as if they were lepers." This advice was first applied to -Captain Boycott, agent for the estate of Lord Erne, near Ballinrobe, and -he was a complete victim of the policy. The police could do nothing. -There was no law under which dealers could be compelled to sell him food -and drink, and all his supplies had to be shipped to him from Dublin. -Nobody would speak to him, nobody would work for him, nobody would -accept his money, and, as Parnell suggested, he was treated as if he -were a leper. The plan was so successful that it was promptly adopted -throughout Ireland, and has since been commonly used elsewhere under the -name of the first victim. - -But boycotting is growing unpopular in Ireland. It is condemned by the -bishops and the clergy generally. They are taking more and more positive -grounds, and many refuse the communion to persons who are guilty of -either boycotting or cattle driving, because they are contrary to -justice and charity and are therefore sinful. I heard one of the bishops -preach an impressive sermon on the subject. He condemned all -combinations of persons to cause suffering or distress in their -neighbors as inhuman, immoral, and unjust. He declared that boycotting -was worse than murder, because it caused a greater degree of suffering. -When a man was shot he usually died without agony, but when he was -boycotted he suffered the worse sort of mental torture, and to cause -such sufferings was one of the worst of sins. Father Gilligan, parish -priest at Carrick-on-Shannon, preached against boycotting the Sunday we -were there. He said, in introducing the subject, that he deeply -regretted that many of his parishioners had joined in a boycott for -which they imagined they had a good excuse, but nothing would justify a -boycott. It was a crime, and those who had engaged in it would not be -admitted to communion until they had sincerely repented. Every effort -had been made by advice, by intimidation, and even by threats of -violence, to keep the people from dealing with some of the most -respectable merchants in the town. There were three degrees of -boycotting--mild, medium, and savage--and all three had been condemned -by the Church. "Have nothing to do with it," said Father Gilligan, "do -not touch it with a pole that would reach New York." - -At present boycotting is applied to landlords and cattle men who are -occupying their land that is wanted for farms. The cattle men have no -permanent tenancy, they erect no buildings, they make no improvements, -and the cattle business is so profitable that they are able to pay twice -as much rent as the ordinary farming tenant. For those reasons, and -because he has only one man to deal with, a landlord is always glad to -rent his lands for grazing, and gradually Ireland is becoming one great -pasture. - -Cattle driving is another weapon used by the same people for the same -purpose, and that is condemned by the bishops and the clergy with equal -emphasis. Archbishop Fennely of Tipperary recently preached a sermon in -which he expressed the hope that before he closed his eyes in death he -would see every acre of land in Ireland owned by the men who tilled it, -but he could not sympathize with and he must earnestly condemn every -form of violence and every unlawful measure that was used to secure that -end. He gave his diocese a solemn warning that cattle driving, -boycotting, and similar unlawful practices would not be tolerated by the -Church. - -This form of argument, it must be admitted, is a great advance over the -fierce methods that have been used in the past, when murder and -bloodshed were quite common, and other damages that cannot be repaired -by money or by the judgment of the court were suffered. It was a -habitual jest to speak of the "closed season for landlords." - -The Irish never overlook the humor in a situation, and at a cattle drive -which took place in 1908 at Tuam, which is a place of considerable -ecclesiastical importance, being the residence of the Most Rev. John -Healey, one of the ablest and most influential Roman Catholic bishops in -Ireland, the following lines were pinned to the tail of one of the cows: - - GOD SAVE IRELAND. - - "Leave the way, for we are coming. - And, on my soul, we got a drumming; - They cleared us out so mighty quick, - And, faith, they used their hazel stick. - Well, now, Paddy, of you we implore, - Don't put us through Cloomagh any more; - For if you do you're bound to die, - And we have the powder fresh and dry; - God bless the Cattle Drivers." - -The taxpayers are compelled to pay damages for all cases of cattle -driving, for loss of business in boycotting, and for other claims -growing out of such outrages. Usually the courts assess one pound per -head for cattle where no harm is done, five pounds per head where an -animal is injured, and about one-third as much for sheep. Most of the -cattle driving and the boycotting is committed by irresponsible young -men who are led by mischief-makers with private grudges, and they never -reason for themselves. It goes without saying that the love of fighting -is one of the most conspicuous traits of the Irish character. The -history of Ireland from the foggiest period of the past is a tale of -continuous warfare. In the early days fighting was the chief end and aim -of men, and women fought beside their fathers and husbands and brothers -until St. Patrick forbade them to do so. And they thought very little of -the consequences. - -The case was well stated in a little poem from an American paper that -was shown me by a friend the other day: - - "'Who says that the Irish are fighters by birth,' - Says little Dan Crone; - 'Faith, there's not a more peacable race on the earth - If ye l'ave them alone.'" - -But sometimes they won't be let alone. In the summer of 1908 there was a -riot in the town of Thurles and a mob did a lot of damage in order to -show its disapproval of legal proceedings that had been taken against a -fellow townsman. Richard Burke, who was "licensed to sell spirits not to -be consumed on the premises," was unable to meet his obligations and -went into bankruptcy. The sheriff took charge of the establishment under -the orders of the court, and the license, good will, and the stock in -hand were offered for sale to the highest bidder. But the bids did not -come up to the valuation of the court and were all rejected. A few days -later a private offer from Mr. Cody, who has been competing with Mr. -Burke to quench the thirst of Thurles for several years, to take the -entire place for £2,000 was accepted. Mr. Burke, who has been in the -habit of consuming too much of his own merchandise for the good of his -business, became very indignant because his old enemy was going to step -into his place, gathered together a few sympathetic friends, raided his -own establishment, smashed the bottles, knocked in the heads of the -barrels, and invited the whole town to help themselves, which they did -with an energy that would have been commendable in another cause. Then, -when almost every citizen of the town, young and old, was drunk, they -started up the street smashing their own windows and doors and doing -what is estimated at $15,000 worth of damages to their own property, -besides $7,000 worth of destruction in Mr. Cody's place. - -Although Cody had signed the papers, he had not paid for Mr. Burke's -former stock, and naturally he now refuses to do so, since it does not -exist, so that Mr. Burke and his creditors suffer the entire loss of his -own raid and hospitality, and the taxpayers of Thurles have been -assessed to pay for the other foolishness. - -There are twenty thousand Galway people in the United States, or "across -the herring pond," as a banker there expressed it, who have been in the -habit of making remittances to their fathers and mothers and brothers -and sisters here in generous amounts, and many families are partly and a -large number are wholly dependent upon them. Most of the Galway -emigrants are in New York, Boston, Philadelphia, Chicago, and other -large cities, earning good wages, but they were out of employment after -the recent panic and have had all that they could do to take care of -themselves. Hence very little money has been received here from America -for nearly a year. The postmaster told me that the American money orders -cashed at the Galway post office have averaged £40,000 a year for the -last eight or ten years, and in 1908 the total will not reach £15,000. -An even larger sum of money has been coming in checks and drafts and the -bankers say that the remittances in that form are not more than ten per -cent of the usual amount. The merchants complain that their customers -are not bringing in any American checks, which have been presented in -payment daily for ten or twelve years. Christmas checks were very scarce -in 1907, and that is the principal reason for the poverty. Wages are -very low in Galway--ten shillings a week, and two shillings a day is the -average for ordinary labor. The Allan Line steamers have been touching -at Galway since 1881, and have carried to Quebec an enormous number of -emigrants for the United States as well as Canada, but the faster boats, -touching at Queenstown, have reduced the business considerably. The -steerage passage is $27.50 and $30; the average emigrants are chiefly -between seventeen and twenty-three years of age, and most of them go to -Boston. - -Galway is a foreign-looking little town, unlike any other we saw in -Ireland, and much of the architecture is Dutch and Spanish, departing -from the plain, ugly brick front without cornice or eaves which is so -common elsewhere. The streets are irregular and run all sorts of ways; -some very narrow and some very wide, and they vary in width at different -places, with occasionally an odd-shaped space at the intersection. -Everything looks old and shabby and out of repair. It is queer as well -as significant to see buildings half in ruins in the principal streets -and others with the glass broken out of the windows. There are some -smart-looking shops, however, and neatly kept residences, but they are -not frequent. Nor is the town well kept. The Common Council evidently -lacks a sense of the æsthetic, because the streets are dirty, the park -is scraggly, and the grass and trees are very much neglected. It is -altogether the untidiest public park I saw in Ireland. Many of the -people we met on the principal streets, particularly the women, are -repulsive in their rags and dirty faces and unkempt hair and bare feet. -We saw a few barefooted women in Tipperary and Limerick, but in Galway -none of the working women wears shoes, although the men seem to be well -shod. The women cover their heads with thick shawls that are often -greasy and torn, and their faces show evidences of sorrow and privation, -and perhaps other causes have left a mark. - -[Illustration: FISH MARKET, GALWAY] - -The foreign appearance of Galway is accounted for by the fact that many -Frenchmen, Spaniards, and Dutchmen were in business there in early -times. The town was named from the Gauls, and for centuries an extensive -trade was carried on with the Continent by foreign merchants and foreign -fleets. Richard de Burgo, founder of the Burke family, was given the -country of Connaught by the king, and, having in 1232 crushed the -O'Connors, who were formerly kings there, he enlarged the Castle of -Galway and made it his residence, calling around him a flourishing -foreign colony. But the "tribes of Galway," as Cromwell called the -natives, would not submit to him, and kept up a guerrilla warfare that -was very annoying. The English took all the measures they could to -protect themselves, and in 1518 a law was passed forbidding the people -of the town "to recieve into their housses at Christemas, Easter nor no -feaste elles, any of the MacWilliams, Kellies, Joyces, Lynches nor to -cepte Elles without permission of the Mayor and Councill; on payn to -forfeit £'5 and that no one called O' nor Mac shalle strutte ne swaggere -thro the streetes of Galway." And the following inscription was formerly -to be seen over the west gate to the city: - - "From the fury of the O'Flaherties - Good Lord deliver us." - -There are some quaint old houses--one of them on the principal street, -known as "the mansion," being elaborately decorated with carved -moldings, drip stones, cornices, balustrades, medallions, crests, coats -of arms, and other ornaments in which the lynx and the monkey, which -were used upon the family arms, appear frequently. The same story is -told to account for the monkey that is used to explain the appearance of -that animal upon the escutcheon of the Earl of Desmond--that the heir to -the house was rescued by a monkey when it was burning. - -The Burkes, the Joyces, and the Lynches were the leading families there. -The records show that eighty-four members of the Lynch family have held -the office of mayor. A tragic story of James Lynch, the second mayor -after the charter of the city was granted by Richard III., is kept in -the minds of the people by a tablet imbedded in the wall of a ruined -house on one of the principal streets. It bears this inscription: - - "This memorial of the stern and unbending justice of the chief - magistrate of this city, James Lynch Fitzstephen, elected mayor, - A.D. 1493, who condemned and executed his own guilty son, Walter, - on this spot, has been restored to its ancient site, with the - approval of the town commissioners, by their chairman, the Very - Rev. Peter Daly, P.P. and Vicar of St. Nicholas." - -The Rev. Mr. Daly has immortalized himself in this simple way, and his -character may be judged by the fact that his name appears even more -prominently on the tablet than that of the unnatural father whose act he -perpetuates. The story goes that Mayor Lynch, being one of the most -successful of the shipping merchants in the city, visited Spain in the -very year that Columbus discovered America, to make the personal -acquaintance of his customers, and, being treated with generous -hospitality, invited the son of one of his friends to return with him to -Ireland. The young man spent several months in Galway, as the guest of -Mayor Lynch, and as the companion of his son, Walter. The latter, a -great favorite in the city, was engaged to a young lady of good family, -who behaved rather imprudently with the young Spaniard. This excited the -jealousy of Walter Lynch, who murdered his playmate, and then, from -remorse, gave himself up to justice. He was tried, convicted, and -condemned to death by his own father, sitting as judge of the court, and -when the sheriff, in obedience to public opinion, refused to carry out -the sentence, Judge Lynch hanged his own son with his own hands. As -there were other judges and courts in Ireland and as changes of venue -were common in those days, as they are now, one cannot sympathize with -this Spartan heartlessness. - -There is a quaint old church, built in 1320, in honor of St. Fechin, who -was born about the year 600, in County Sligo, was the founder of -numerous monasteries and churches along the western coast of Ireland, -and was the first to bring the gospel to County Galway. Queen's College, -supported by the government, has a fine Gothic building, copied after -All Souls of Oxford, with about three hundred students, and there is -another college, under the Christian Brothers, which is very prosperous. - -The most interesting sight in Galway is the thousands of fat salmon -lying motionless on the bottom of the river which carries the water of -Lough Corrib--one of the largest fresh-water lakes in the country--into -Galway Bay. The river is short and swift and flows through the center of -the city. Its banks are walled up with masonry and it is crossed by a -series of ancient iron bridges. From the railings of the bridges one can -see the salmon through the transparent water lying with their noses up -stream so closely that the bottom of the river is hidden; and I am told -that when they are running in the spring the stream is black with them. -They come in from the sea and go up a ladder that has been built for -them over the rapids into Lough Corrib. - -The exclusive right of fishing that river was granted in 1221 by King -John to one of his favorites, and the monopoly has been recognized ever -since. It has been sold many times. The last purchaser was an ancestor -of a Mrs. Hallett, who enjoys the privilege at present, and lives in a -big stone house on the river banks, surrounded by high walls. A series -of traps extends from her garden across the river, covering four-fifths -of its width, one-fifth being always kept open by act of parliament, so -that the fish can go up and down freely, but as they are all strangers -in Galway, and young and reckless, many of them run into the traps -instead of the passageway and become the property of Mrs. Hallett. She -ships them to London and makes three or four thousand pounds a year by -selling them. The fishermen in charge told me that in the spring they -often caught as many as two or three hundred a day in each of the traps. -Any one who desires to try his luck with a fly can do so by getting a -permit from Mrs. Hallett, for which the fee is $2.50 a day or $25 a -year. - -Near the mouth of the river and at the head of the Bay of Galway is an -ancient village called Claddagh, whose inhabitants have been engaged in -the herring and salmon fisheries for ten centuries, and have lived apart -from the world, having their own municipal organization, their own laws -and courts and customs and manner of dress. From the beginning of time -they have been ruled by one of their own number, elected by themselves -for a term of years, who exercises executive, legislative, and judicial -functions, from which there is no appeal. They have no written laws, no -records of their judicial proceedings, but when there is a dispute -between any of the fishermen they take it to their chosen umpire, who -decides it according to the merits of the case. And his decision is -always accepted. I am told that no citizen of Claddagh has ever been -before a Galway court, either as a plaintiff or defendant. They live in -low thatched cottages, grouped in irregular streets on the bank of the -river, with a large and very modern-looking church, which they attend -regularly. They are remarkable for their piety and their morals. They -will not work, nor will they leave their village for any reason, on -Sundays or religious holidays. They never allow strangers to live among -them, their young men and women never marry outside of the colony, they -take care of their own sick and poor, and, although they are only five -minutes' walk from the principal street of Galway, they are as isolated -as if they were on an island in the middle of the ocean. - -Formerly the Claddagh people wore a distinctive dress, resembling that -of the fisher folks of Holland,--a red skirt, a blue waist, elaborate -headdress, and bare feet and legs,--but this costume has been discarded -by the younger women and is only worn by their grandmothers now. But all -the women go barefooted. They never wear shoes or stockings. The men are -engaged exclusively in fishing, although they do all of their own -masonry, carpentering, and boat building. They pack their fish in the -village, but carry a portion of each catch across the river to the fish -market of Galway. - -There is an attractive resort for city people on the Bay of Galway, with -a long promenade, several hotels, and a number of comfortable villas. - -[Illustration: SALMON WEIR, GALWAY] - - - - - XXXI - - CONNEMARA AND THE NORTHWEST COAST - - -Clifden is the extreme western point of Ireland, and for that reason -Marconi selected it for his wireless telegraph station in communicating -with Canada and the United States. It is 1,620 miles in a direct line of -St. John, New Brunswick, and, as a native remarked, "There's not a -spheck of droy land upon which a burrd could rist the sole of its foot -bechune this blessed spot and Americky." If you will examine the map you -will understand the situation better, and a geological chart of the -island will show you that the western coast, from Mizzen Head to Bloody -Foreland, is protected by a chain of mountains, bleak, rugged, and -abrupt, which nature has placed as a buttress to support the rest of -Ireland against the fierce attack of the Atlantic. They have terrible -storms there, and a northwest gale several times a year that is -terrific. The east winds, which we dread, bring good weather in Ireland, -but the west wind brings storms and cold and mists that are almost as -bad as the London fog. - -Connemara is the congested district, but it does not bear that name -because the population is overcrowded, but because there are too many -people for the inhospitable soil to support. The inhabitants are -scattered over a vast area. I could see everything from one point as far -as a radius of twenty-two miles, and there wasn't a human habitation in -sight, nor was there any inducement to build one because the country was -a bleak, barren, rocky wilderness without soil for crops or shelter for -cattle. There is the greatest degree of poverty and suffering in -Ireland, and there the government is doing its greatest benevolent work -in trying to place the people upon farms that are large enough to -support them, and finding them other occupations by which they can earn -a few additional dollars. - -A railway was built from Galway along the edge of the ocean to Clifden a -few years ago, and the track hugs the coast as closely as possible. An -hour after leaving Galway nature begins to disclose her unfriendliness, -the mountains begin to loom up to a height of two thousand and -twenty-two hundred feet, the landscape becomes stern and forbidding, and -there is no vegetation except heather, which, when in full bloom, adds a -purple hue to the wilderness. Heather seems to be as brave, as enduring, -and as self-reliant as the sage brush that decorates the arid plains of -our western States, and nothing seems to discourage its growth. -Alternating with the rocks are peat beds, in which both men and women -spend much time getting out a supply of fuel for the next winter and -stacking it in little piles to dry. - -The most prominent feature of the landscape is a group of mountains -called the Twelve Bens--sometimes written the "Twelve Pins." They are so -called because of their conical, dome-like peaks and the similar -individuality of each. They rise almost from the level of the Atlantic, -and for that reason look higher than they really are. The highest is Ben -Baun, 2,393 feet, and the lowest is Ben Brach, 1,922 feet. Their sides -are scarred with the wounds of terrestrial convulsions and glacial -action, and they are composed very largely of quartzite, which -frequently furnishes a white surface that glistens in the sunlight and -adds to the picturesque effect. From these mountains comes the Connemara -marble, the most valuable stone in the United Kingdom, often as fine in -grain as the malachite and lapis lazuli of the Urals and the onyx of -Mexico. It is used both for construction and for ornamental purposes, -and the quarries are very profitable. - -[Illustration: A SCENE IN CONNEMARA] - -The landscape is dotted with little lakes and ponds which have no -visible outlet, but are all connected somehow underground. Most of them -cover only an acre or two, but Lough Corrib is the largest in Ireland -except Lough Neagh, near Belfast. Lough Mask and Lough Cong are also -several miles in length and two or three miles in width. There are said -to be 365 lakes in Ireland, and one would judge that the larger number -of them are in Connemara. They are fed by springs and rainfall and are -said to abound in fish. The railway companies advertise this as the best -fishing ground in the world, and announce that they have leased several -of the loughs in order to provide free fishing to all excursionists. -That is a great attraction for city people when they take their -vacations, because elsewhere as a rule when a man wants to go fishing he -is compelled to take out a license and pay handsomely for the -privilege--from $2.50 to $5 a day. Therefore the advertisements of free -fishing in Connemara, combined with the scenery, which is highly admired -and considered second only to that of Switzerland, tempt a great many -people there. But most of them are disappointed. There is plenty of -water to fish in, there are plenty of boats to hire, but fish are -scarce, and, no matter where you go, the oldest inhabitant always -insists that he never knew a time when fishing was so bad as it is now. -There are many skeptics and a few cynics about who give you a true -statement of the situation. "Boots" at the hotel asserted that if -anything could be caught in the lakes we might be sure that the fishing -would not be free, and added sarcastically that the only reason it was -free was that nobody ever caught anything. - -The O'Briens were once kings of that country and they were driven out by -the O'Flahertys, who in turn were driven out by the English. You can see -the ruins of Castle Bally Quirk, the principal fortress of the -O'Flahertys, from the car window, and read the terrible story of how the -chief of that clan was imprisoned in its keep in the time of Queen -Elizabeth and starved to death. The O'Flahertys were always "agin the -government," and were so impertinent in their replies and so arrogant in -their demeanor that Queen Elizabeth decided to bring them to submission, -and nearly exterminated the family before she did so. "The O'Flaherty," -the head of the family at present, is a justice of the peace, who lives -at Lemonfield, upon the ancient estates, but retains very little of -them. - -If Clifden wasn't such a dirty town it might be made a popular health -resort. The air is glorious; the natural surroundings are grand and -would tempt many artists as well as admirers of scenery. There are -excellent small hotels, but the town is decidedly unattractive, the -streets are filthy, the walks in the neighborhood of the town are used -so much by the cattle that they are quite unclean, and the people do not -seem to have any idea of neatness or order. The principal business seems -to be the sale of liquor, which can be purchased at thirty-three places -within this little town of eight hundred people, as advertised by the -sign boards. And they all look as if they were doing a good trade. There -is considerable fishing at Cleggan, a neighboring village, which has -been encouraged and assisted by the government, and large shipments of -fish are made to Dublin every day. Early in the morning several ancient -fishwives appear in a triangular space between the rows of houses in the -center of the village with baskets of fish, and from our windows in the -comfortable Railway Hotel we can see the inhabitants come strolling -along in an indolent and indifferent manner to buy their breakfasts. -They have the choice of a variety of fish, and the prices are remarkably -low. A fine, fat mackerel costs a penny, a codfish sixpence, and for a -shilling one can get a haddock big enough to last a large-sized family -for a week. - -Upon the hillside overlooking the town is an imposing church which has -an air of magnificence in comparison with the rest of the town; it is -ten times as large and ten times as glorious for Clifden as St. Peter's -is for Rome. It was built only a few years ago from the contributions of -the peasants, the same people that the government is trying to make -comfortable and aid in earning a living. It will seat nine hundred -people and is filled twice on Sunday with devout worshipers. Father -Lynch, the curate, told me that it was necessary to have two masses and -sometimes three on Sunday to accommodate them all, and some of them come -eleven and even twelve miles, most of them on foot, to attend worship. -Here, as everywhere in Ireland, religion is the first and most important -thing in life, and the church is the gateway to happiness and Heaven. -There is also a Protestant church, much smaller, but not insignificant, -which stands upon an opposite hill, surrounded by a graveyard, in which -there are some venerable tombs. - -Clifden is the seat of several important families, including the -Martins, who formerly lived at Ballynaninch Castle, a plain, large, -stern-looking embattled building, which was the scene of Charles Lever's -novel, "The Martins of Cro' Martin." It was the home of Col. Richard -Martin, M.P., the inventor and organizer of the first society for the -prevention of cruelty to animals in the world, and the author of -"Martin's Acts," punishing those who are guilty of that offense. He -spent large sums of money in the enforcement of this law and in -organizing societies and establishing hospitals for diseased and wounded -animals throughout the kingdom, but was otherwise extravagant and went -through his fortune. - -Colonel Martin was the original of "Godfrey O'Malley," the hero of -Lever's novel, and the sketch is said to be very accurate. He was a -reckless, extravagant, but generous, warm-hearted man and died a -sacrifice to his efforts to relieve the sufferings of his tenants at the -time of the famine. - -His only child, Mary Martin, married an American, Colonel Bell of New -York, and lived in that city until her death. Although she was known as -the Princess of Connemara and inherited an empire in area, she was never -able to maintain the state that her father was so proud of, and 192,000 -acres of her vast domain was sold by the courts to settle his debts, -being purchased by the Law Life Assurance Company. Richard Berridge, a -London brewer, bought another tract of 160,000 acres and the young woman -scarcely missed it, so extensive were her lands. But they were of little -value, being mostly mountain peaks and barren moors. Colonel Martin once -silenced the prince regent, who during the early part of Queen -Victoria's reign was boasting of the famous Long Walk of Windsor, by -scornfully declaring that the avenue which led from his front gate to -his hall door was thirty miles long; and that was very nearly the truth. - -Clifden Castle is the seat of the De Arcy family, who built and owned -the town of Clifden and were formerly very rich, but a very little is -seen of them at present. - -Marconi's wireless telegraph station occupies a bleak, rocky promontory -extending out into the sea about three miles from the village. It is -surrounded by a large tract of barren moor and is inclosed in barbed -wire fence, which no one is allowed to pass without a permit. There are -several corrugated iron buildings, comfortable but temporary, for -generating furnaces, offices, and dormitories for Mr. Marden, the -superintendent, and seven assistants. There is a miniature railway -connecting them with the harbor to bring up coal and other supplies from -the bay, for it requires a lot of fuel to generate the tremendous -voltage necessary to throw a message across the Atlantic Ocean. When the -operators are sending a Marconigram the sound can be heard for half a -mile--a deafening whirr and buzz like that of a sawmill, interspersed -with sharp detonations, long and short, according to the dots and dashes -of the Morse code. An ordinary operator could read the message a long -distance away, but would not be able to understand it because every word -is sent in cipher. This is the reason why people are kept out of the -grounds and why so large an area is necessary for protection. The -station is a profitable thing for the town, because about fifteen -hundred dollars a month is spent for supplies and labor, and employment -is given to a large gang of men. - -After several romantic engagements to American girls, Signor Marconi -finally married a local beauty, Miss O'Brien, daughter of "The O'Brien," -the representative of the family that were kings over this country in -the early days. - -[Illustration: CLIFDEN CASTLE, COUNTY GALWAY] - -As Clifden is the terminus of the railway, we cruised around the -rockbound coast of the Atlantic and across the bleak mountain sides to -Westport, in what they call an "excursion car"--an exaggerated jaunting -car on four wheels, drawn by two horses, with seats for six -passengers on each side and a cavity in the center between them, opening -from the end like a hearse, in which the baggage is carried. It is one -of the most uncomfortable vehicles you can imagine. None of the -passengers can see more than half the scenery, as they sit back to back -and face out toward either side of the road. The ordinary jaunting car -is quite as awkward and uncomfortable, and if you take a drive to see -the scenery you have to go over the road twice because you can see only -half of it at a time. - -The scenery in Connemara reminds one very much of Norway except in the -lack of the cleanliness for which the latter country is famous. The -coast line is cut by deep jags and precipitous cliffs, like the fiords, -and the mountains have the same stern and stony appearance, and the peat -bogs that lie between them are similar to those in the Scandinavian -countries, although the climate is much milder here. The fuchsia plant -is commonly used for hedges, which all summer long is loaded with -blossoms of purple and red. I had never seen a fuchsia hedge until I -came to Ireland. The first was at Glengariff, on the southern coast, but -since then we have found them everywhere along the Atlantic shore, in -the western counties, hundreds of miles of them, inclosing pastures, -meadows, and gardens and growing with wonderful luxuriance. - -There is no fruit in Ireland, or at least very little. I didn't see a -respectable orchard all summer and saw no fruit trees except a few -cherries and plums in gardens. Gooseberries seem to be the only "fruit -of the season" at the hotels, and gooseberry tart is served for luncheon -and for dinner every day. There are a few strawberries, but they are -very expensive and are sold by the pound. They are never served upon the -regular _table d'hôte_ bills of fare, but are always extra. - -We were told the Connemara was very picturesque, and the most -interesting section of Ireland, both in scenery, in local color, and in -costumes, but it is a disappointment in all three respects. The scenery -is grand, as mountains always are, but it is very monotonous; the people -are so poor and so dirty that they repel, and we seldom see them at -work, except in the peat fields as we pass. The Connemara peasant woman -always wears a red skirt, goes barefooted, and covers her tousled head -under a heavy shawl. She works alongside of the men and does her share -of the heavy as well as the light labor. She is expected to do as much -manual labor as her husband or her brother, and judging from what we -observed in the peat bogs, they give her the heavy end of the load. - -We spent the night at Leenane, a little fishing village at the head of a -fiord that comes up nine miles from the Atlantic into the mountains. -There is a plain but good hotel, much patronized by fishermen. In the -morning we continued our journey over the mountains through some very -rugged country. We drove through the famous Pass of Kylemore, one of the -most beautiful pieces of scenery in Ireland, and called "The Gem of -Connemara." It was particularly interesting to us because Kylemore -Castle is the home of an American girl, the Duchess of Manchester, who -was formerly Miss Helena Zimmerman of Cincinnati and is now the wife of -the Duke of Manchester. It is one of the most beautiful residences in -Ireland, and is situated upon the banks of a lovely little lake and at -the base of a mountain called Doughraugh, which rises 1,736 feet behind -it as a background and is covered with the most beautiful foliage. The -castle is in the center of the pass, between two lofty mountains, and -the roadway for miles passes through a forest and between fields that -are inclosed with fuchsia hedges. - -[Illustration: A SCENE IN THE WEST OF IRELAND; LENANE HARBOR] - -Kylemore Castle was built by Mr. Mitchell Henry, a home rule member of -parliament in the '60's, about a hundred years ago, and cost him more -than a million dollars. The chapel, which cost more than a hundred -thousand dollars, was built by his son, who sold the place to the Duke -of Manchester. As the latter was not able to pay for it, his -father-in-law, Mr. Zimmerman, a railroad magnate of Cincinnati, -president of the Cincinnati, Hamilton & Dayton Railroad, took it off his -hands for £69,000 and presented it to his daughter, who spends most of -her time there, because the climate is very agreeable throughout the -entire year and she loves the seclusion. There isn't a neighbor for -several miles, except the people employed on the place. There are -fourteen thousand acres of shooting, several small lakes, and about -forty acres in garden. - -This is the kingdom of Grace O'Malley, the famous Amazon daughter of -Owen O'Malley, King of Connaught. She lived and reigned here in the time -of Queen Elizabeth, and her castle is now used as a police barracks. -While some of the legends of Grace O'Malley are doubtless fiction, many -of them are founded upon fact. She was a real woman and a real queen -with pride and power and all the other qualities that are attached to -royalty. Queen Elizabeth, to whom she once paid a visit, offered to make -her a countess, but Grace declined on the ground that the Queen of -Connaught was the equal of the Queen of England, and could accept no -favors. Her first husband was an O'Flaherty and her second was Sir -Richard Burke. The second was a "trial marriage," and it was agreed that -after the end of one year the union could be dissolved by either husband -or wife saying, "I dismiss you," to the other, and Grace said it first. - -We passed around the base of the mountain Crough Patrick, which rises -with great abruptness to a height of 2,510 feet, almost directly from -the Atlantic Ocean, and has a flat plain about half a mile square upon -its summit. There are the remains of an ancient chapel, and a large -Celtic cross stands boldly in the foreground, where it can be seen from -all the country round. This is one of the most sacred spots in Ireland, -because, according to Monk Jocelyn, who wrote a life of St. Patrick in -the twelfth century, and other historians, that most venerated saint -"brought together here all the demons, toads, serpents, creeping things, -and other venomous creatures in Ireland and imprisoned them in a deep -ravine on the sea front of the mountain known as Lugnademon (the pen of -the demons) as fast as they came in answer to his summons, and kept them -safely there until he was ready to destroy them. Then, standing upon the -summit of the Crough, St. Patrick, with a bell in hand, cursed them and -expelled them from Ireland forever. And every time he rang the bell -thousands of toads, adders, snakes, reptiles, and other noisome things -went down, tumbling neck and heels after each other, and were swallowed -up forever in the sea." A less reverent writer says: - - "'Twas on the top of the high hill - St. Patrick preached his sarmints; - He drove the frogs from all the bogs - And banished all the varmints." - -It is a well-known phenomenon in natural history that there are no -snakes, toads, moles, or venomous reptiles in Ireland, and the fact has -always been accounted for in this way. St. Patrick's miracle, performed -at the summit of the Crough, in County Mayo, in the year 450, is -accepted with as perfect faith as the story of the creation, and on the -anniversary, during the month of July, thousands of pilgrims climb to -the ruined chapel, some of them on their knees, to pray to the patron -saint of Ireland. - -As Westport is the nearest town of importance in Ireland to the United -States, there have been several projects to take advantage of that fact -by running a line of steamers from there. The distance to St. John, New -Brunswick, is 1,656 miles; to Halifax, 2,165 miles; to Boston, 2,385 -miles, and to New York, 2,700 miles, which in each case is much less -than from Queenstown or any of the English ports. At the same time, -however, passengers landing there would be subjected to a long railway -journey and would be required to cross St. George's Channel, which is -not an amiable streak of water. It is subject to the same moods and -tenses as the English Channel, and whoever crosses it must make -sacrifices to Neptune in the form of discomfort if not other tribute. A -company was formed some years ago to build docks here and to build -steamers, but nothing has been heard from it of late, and the invention -of the turbine engine and the construction of the fast steamers like the -_Lusitania_ make the voyage quite as short without the other drawbacks. - -The Marquis of Sligo has his seat at Westport and is one of the largest -landowners in Ireland, but he does not spend much time here. He prefers -his townhouse at 10 Hyde Park Place, London. The greater part of his -land is entirely worthless. He owns many square miles of rock, moorland, -and mountain peaks in Connemara, which furnish admirable scenery but are -good for nothing else. As General Sheridan once said of another place, -under other circumstances, "It would be necessary for a crow to take his -rations with him," if he attempted to make the journey across his -lordship's estates. There is more waste land to the acre in Connemara -than in any other part of the United Kingdom, and the Marquis of Sligo -owns the largest share of it. - -The Marquis of Sligo owns the town of Westport, and it is built around -the entrance to his beautiful park. He is more generous than most of the -earls, because he allows the public free of charge and without -restriction to enjoy it with him. The gates are always open to young and -old, rich and poor,--on foot, on bicycle, or in vehicles, except -automobiles. He has a prejudice against them and they are not allowed to -enter. - -Across the roadway from the main entrance and nailed to the wall of an -old-fashioned house is an ancient signboard, upon which are inscribed -the tolls formerly demanded by the Marquis of Sligo upon the sales of -produce in the market of this town. He owns the place; the land all -belongs to him, and that which is not occupied by his houses pays him -ground rent perpetually. He owns the market place, and instead of -charging rental to the farmers who come there to sell their produce he -used to tax each sale a penny for a dozen eggs, a penny for a chicken, -tuppence for a sack of potatoes, and so on. There is a long list upon -the signboard giving the exact toll for every article and animal that -entered into the traffic of the market place, fish, fowl, fruit, -vegetables, grain, and all other things. He owns the fair grounds also, -and in olden times collected ten per cent of all the premiums and prizes -that were awarded, and a corresponding toll upon the cattle that were -bought and sold at the monthly and annual fairs. And this custom -prevailed all over Ireland, until 1881, when the people decided that -they would not submit to it any longer, and therefore refused to pay the -collector when he came around. Finally, after a popular agitation which -resulted in a good many broken heads and some loss of life, parliament -abolished the privilege, and the tolls collected in the market houses -now go into the common treasury. - -Westport is the residence of Rev. J.M. Hannay, rector of the Church of -Ireland here, who is better known to the world as George A. Birmingham, -author of several political novels which have caused a great stir and -have had an important influence upon land legislation. Mr. Hannay is an -ardent patriot, but has the judicial faculty of looking upon both sides -of a question, and in the vivid pictures he has drawn of the scenes and -events and consequences of the land wars, stripping the screens from the -motives of the leaders, he has convinced thousands of people where -ordinary arguments would have entirely failed. His novel entitled "The -Seething Pot" has frequently been recommended to me by the highest -authorities as the best picture of Irish politics that was ever written. - -There has always been a good deal of literary talent up this way. The -County of Longford, just south of here, was the birthplace and home of -two of the most famous of Irish writers,--Maria Edgeworth and Oliver -Goldsmith. It is quite remarkable that both should have derived their -early love and their knowledge of the Irish character from the same -identical parish. Both received their early education at the same -school, and the little hamlet Pallasmore, where the author of "The Vicar -of Wakefield" first saw the light, is still, as it was in his time, the -property of the Edgeworth family. It is now only a group of humble -cabins. The house in which the poet was born, Nov. 10, 1728, long ago -disappeared and there is not a relic left of himself or his family. -Later Rev. Charles Goldsmith, his father, removed to the rectory of -Kilkenny West, six miles from the city of Athlone. There the poet spent -his boyhood days, and there his brother, Rev. Henry G. Goldsmith, -continued to reside after his father's death. And he was residing there -when Oliver dedicated to him his poem, "The Traveler." - -A hundred years ago Maria Edgeworth was the most popular of English -novelists. She was the daughter of Richard Lovell Edgeworth, an Irish -literary man, and was born Jan. 1, 1767, in Berkshire, England, where -her family was stopping temporarily. She made her reputation in 1801 by -the publication of a novel called "Castle Rackrent," which was followed -by "Belinda," "Leonora," and other novels at the rate of one a year -until she closed her labors in 1834 with a charming story for children -called "Orlandino," and died at Edgeworthstown, the family seat, which -they still occupy, in 1849. Miss Edgeworth never married, although she -is said to have been very attractive, and was an admired and courted -favorite at the court at Windsor as well as among the peasants of -Ireland. Her writings are noted for the simplicity and beauty of her -style, originality of expression, truthfulness to nature, and the -ingenuity of her situations. - -Rathra, near Frenchport, County Roscommon, is the residence of Douglas -Hyde, the organizer and president of the Gaelic League, which is -intended to revive and restore to common use the ancient language and -the ancient customs of Ireland. Dr. Hyde is the son of a Protestant -clergyman, a graduate of Trinity College, Dublin, a professional -literary man, author of several books, and a lecturer and teacher at -different times. Although he originated the Gaelic League movement, it -was inspired by Prof. Hugo Meyer, a celebrated German linguist, who is -familiar with forty languages, and in his studies, conceived a profound -admiration for the Gaelic. He came to Ireland as a lecturer at the -university, and there made the acquaintance of Douglas Hyde, who became -his disciple, and by his advice and with his assistance inaugurated the -movement which has since been so successful. - -Dr. Hyde visited the United States in 1908, dined at the White House, -spent two or three evenings with the President and made a disciple of -him. He is a man of slender stature, delicate health, and intense -nervous emotional nature. He has the faculty of hypnotizing the people -he talks with, and his fascinating personality has been very effective -in his crusade. - -Irish ideals, traits, customs, and superstitions were fast disappearing; -English sports, games, literature, and customs were being adopted. The -legends and folklore of Ireland were being forgotten, and native ballads -and melodies became obsolete with the harp, and, although a hundred -years ago Gaelic was spoken by everybody up to the very gates of Dublin -and Belfast, it has been practically forgotten by the people. The census -of 1901 showed that 638,000 people could speak the language, but most of -those could not read it, and knew only a few phrases and words they had -learned from their grandmothers. It was ignored in the schools and in -the printing houses. No Gaelic books had been published for generations. -Since the time of Daniel O'Connell the Irish peasantry have been anxious -to learn English so as to read his speeches. - -This was the situation when Hugo Meyer and Douglas Hyde undertook to -revive an interest in the native language, literature, and customs, and -in 1893 they organized what was called the Gaelic League, a -nonpolitical, nonsectarian society, which has now more than nine hundred -local branches with two hundred thousand members, sending delegates to -the annual _ard-fheis_ or annual assembly. Since 1898 a weekly -newspaper and a monthly magazine have been published in the Irish -language, and both have become self-supporting; and the daily and weekly -newspapers throughout Ireland, almost without exception, have a Gaelic -department conducted in that language. The names of the streets are now -posted in Gaelic in nearly all the towns and cities, and the English -directions upon the signboards on the country roads are duplicated in -that language. - -Gaelic is taught for an hour a day in all the national schools, although -a fee is charged for it, which the league is now trying to abolish. In -1907 there were 33,741 children in the primary schools and 2,479 in the -secondary schools receiving paid instruction in Gaelic, an increase from -24,918 primary and 2,029 secondary pupils in 1906. It is confidently -expected that the fee will be abolished during the coming year. The -commissioners of education have recommended it. Gaelic is taught in all -of the normal schools and is required in the examinations for teachers. -The league maintains fourteen organizers and lecturers who go about -organizing classes similar to the Chautauqua circles in the United -States, and more than two hundred thousand adults are studying Gaelic in -that way. - -The movement is cordially indorsed by the Roman Catholic Church, by the -Church of Ireland, by the Presbyterian general assembly, and the -Methodist general conference, which is extraordinary. I am told that it -is the only movement except temperance that has ever received the -approval of all the religious sects. That indicates very clearly that -its managers have carefully maintained the nonsectarian attitude which -is one of the chief planks of the platform. And the fact that it has -been kept out of politics is apparent from the indorsement it has -received from the United Irish League and the Irish parliamentary -leaders as well as the anti-home rulers. Dr. Hyde said the other day -that - -"For the first time in history, and through the influence of the league, -priest and parson, landlord and tenant, Catholic and Protestant, -Orangeman and nationalist, are working together. It cannot be said that -the league has all parties behind it, but there is no party in Ireland -of which some of the members are not with us, and I expect sooner or -later we will succeed in bringing all conflicting interests in Ireland -together in the movement to restore the language and the customs and the -spirit of our ancestors to modern Ireland. - -"In Toomebridge, in the north of Ireland, where for five generations the -Protestant Orangemen and the Catholic nationalists have never met at a -fair or a market without smashing each other and fighting with fist and -stones and shillelah, all parties have come together peaceably at the -assemblies of the league. They held a _feis_ there last year, at which I -was present, and as I looked over the heads of the multitude I could not -say which were the more numerous, the Catholics or Protestants, the -nationalists or Orangemen, and the _feis_ adjourned with the best of -feeling in everybody's heart and without a single angry word having been -exchanged. I am told that this was the first instance where such a thing -has happened, but it has been several times repeated in different parts -of Ireland since." - -Dr. Walsh, the Roman Catholic Archbishop of Dublin, commends the league -in the very highest terms, and takes a great interest in the movement. -He told me it has had a beneficial effect upon the character and the -habits of the people; it has encouraged education, temperance, -self-respect, and has revived an interest in literature, music, oratory, -sports, folklore, and history. - - - - - XXXII - - WORK OF THE CONGESTED DISTRICTS BOARD - - -The term "congested districts" is used to describe those wild and rocky -sections on the west coast of Ireland where fertile land is scarce and -insufficient to support the population, who are compelled to eke out a -miserable living by fishing and other employment. The population is not -"congested" as we understand that word, but it is too numerous to be -supported on that kind of soil, and the government is trying to remove a -sufficient number of families to other sections of Ireland, where -fertile farms can be found for them. In the newspapers and public -documents these families are usually referred to as "congests." - -As one might naturally infer, the advent of parties of "congests" into -localities where they do not belong is not welcomed by the local -residents. On the contrary, there is a bitter and determined resistance -from that class known as the "landless," which is composed of the sons -of farmers who are ambitious to have farms and homes of their own and -cannot obtain them either because there are none to be bought or they, -unfortunately, lack the price. Instead of dividing up the big estates in -such localities among the "landless," who consider themselves entitled -to them because they are natives of the community and their families -have lived there for generations and their ancestors once owned them, -the government commissioners are giving preference to "congests." - -To ignore the claims of the "landless" means a fierce fight over every -attempt at migration. The cattle-driving you read of in the newspapers -is the latest method of persuading the landlords to sell, and the -"landless" class--the young farmers who want farms of their own--is -responsible for these outrages. Anyone who remembers the terrible -passions which have been aroused over the land question in Ireland can -imagine what may happen when "congests" from other portions of the -island are forcibly brought into a community and placed upon farms which -the former owners have been compelled to sell to the government in order -that these aliens may have homes and be able to earn a living. - -What is called the Congested Districts Board was created in 1891 to -improve conditions on the west coast, where the standard of living is at -the lowest point and the people are in a chronic state of famine because -of the inferior quality of the soil. This district consists of the -province of Connaught, the counties of Donegal, Kerry, and Clare, and -the districts of Bantry, Castletown, Schull, and Skibbereen in the -County of Cork. The land in those localities is very poor and is -estimated at an average of eighty cents an acre, while farm lands in the -rest of Ireland have an average value of $3.12 an acre. The majority of -the people live on small plots, where they manage to raise a few -potatoes and cabbages and keep a few cows, goats, pigs, and sheep of -worn-out breeds, which they drive wherever they can find pasturage. Most -of them try to earn a little more money by going to other parts of the -kingdom to work as laborers for a portion of the year or by weaving -homespun, fishing, gathering seaweed, and other home industries. - -The act empowers the board to aid migration to other parts of Ireland, -to assist in the improvement of live stock and the breeding of horses, -cattle, sheep, donkeys, and swine, to encourage poultry farms, -bee-keeping, basket-making, lace-making, knitting, and the manufacture -of carpets, rugs, and other things that can be made at home, and to -encourage the fishing industry by constructing piers and harbors and -furnishing boats and gear. - -[Illustration: BARNE'S GAP, COUNTY DONEGAL.] - -Mr. James Bryce, British Ambassador to Washington, is the author of the -act of parliament which authorized a loan of $22,500,000 to build -laborers' cottages in Ireland, and under it, according to the latest -official returns, 22,500 comfortable new homes have been provided in -different parts of the island, and are now occupied by families of farm -laborers and other workingmen in the rural districts. Each cottage has -from an acre to an acre and one-half of land for a garden. Some of them -have barns and other outhouses. They are built of stone and brick of the -most substantial character, with roofs of slate or tiles. Most of them -have four rooms, two rooms upstairs and two downstairs, with large -windows furnishing plenty of light and plenty of ventilation. The cost -varies from $750 to $1,000 for a cottage, and is paid by the government -with funds derived from the loan mentioned. The tenants pay an average -rental of £4 17_s._ 6_d._ a year, which is equivalent to about -twenty-four dollars in American money or two dollars per month, which -covers the interest upon the cost of the cottage, and an installment -which will cancel the indebtedness at the end of sixty-eight years. If -the tenant owner for whom the cottage is built desires to pay for the -property and get a fee simple, he is at liberty to do so at any time, -but I did not hear of any such case. Most of the tenants are willing to -let their indebtedness run along indefinitely. They can sell, lease, or -dispose of the property in any way at any time. The incumbrance goes -with the property and not with the man, and is assumed by the purchaser. - -It is difficult to overestimate the vast amount of good this movement -has accomplished. It is gradually changing the standard of life among -the laboring classes throughout Ireland. It has not only furnished -comfortable and decent homes for more than twenty-three thousand -families, who have been living in miserable, filthy cabins for -generations, but it has done much to improve their health. It will -strengthen the physical constitutions of the coming generations by -placing them in sanitary homes and clean surroundings. - -Mr. John Redmond, in a speech in the House of Commons, said that "the -agricultural laborers of Ireland had been living under conditions which -were absolutely fatal to health and the habits of cleanliness, and -which, in almost any other country in the world, would have proved fatal -to religion and morality as well. But the Irish agricultural laborers -are a remarkable race of men, highly intelligent, keen and brave, -patriotic, and self-sacrificing in their patriotism. They have preserved -through poverty and squalor a deep religious, spiritual feeling, and the -highest possible standard of morality." - -The Congested Districts Board devotes its attention entirely to the -people living in the bleak mountain lands on the west coast of Ireland, -and its agencies are established at different points from the extreme -south to the extreme north of the island. The poverty, the privation, -the suffering, are chiefly found within a few miles from the coast, -where the territory is divided into vast estates of almost worthless -land, and where it is very difficult for any person to earn a living. -The same conditions have existed for ages. The west coast of Ireland has -never been prosperous, the soil has never been fertile, the people have -never had any more comforts than they have to-day, but they have -continued to live there, century after century, clinging to the rocks -and suffering from the weather and the lack of food, which has been -their inheritance, refusing to leave their wretched hovels for a more -favorable climate and better opportunities of making a living. - -It cannot be said that they remain there in ignorance, because thirty -thousand or forty thousand men from the congested districts leave their -cabins, their wives, and their families for several months every year -and go to England and Scotland to supply the demand for labor in those -countries. The migratory labor system has been going on for generations, -and many of the men have gone to the same jobs generation after -generation, spending half their time earning good wages in England and -the other half looking after their little gardens and cattle and goats -in Connaught Province, in Clare, Kerry, Galway, Sligo, and Donegal -counties. It is one of the strangest phenomena in human life that they -should cling as they do to their desolate, comfortless, filthy stone -huts in these bleak mountains; but, be it ever so humble, be it ever so -comfortless, there is no place like home. - -One of the functions of the Congested Districts Board is to remove as -many as possible of these families to localities where they can make a -living with less labor and find more of the comforts and happiness of -life; but the most pitiful and difficult part of its task is to persuade -them to go. Mr. O'Connor, the solicitor of the board, told me of a -wizen-faced old peasant who occupied a leaky stone hut on the mountain -side, without the slightest comfort within or attraction without. He had -a few acres of sterile soil, on which, with the greatest difficulty, he -was able to produce enough cabbages and potatoes to keep his family from -starvation, and a small herd of goats, lean and gaunt, that were trying -to find sustenance in the heather and the mosses on the rocks; and yet, -even in this condition, the old man stubbornly refused to move. No -inducement could persuade him to abandon the worthless, filthy -habitation, because it was his home. With the pride of a prince he -defied the inspectors of the board, charging them with some malicious -intent of depriving him of property that had been the home of his -family, he declared, for nine hundred years. And nothing could induce -him to leave it for a comfortable cottage and a productive farm fifty -miles in the interior. - -They told me, too, of a girl about eighteen years old, who, being -injured by an automobile, was picked up and carried to the nearest -hospital, which happened to be twenty miles or more from the place where -she lived and the scene of the accident. She was being tenderly cared -for in a neat, sunshiny ward, in a comfortable bed, with sheets and -pillow cases of linen, with a nurse to attend her and every delicacy -that could be furnished to eat, and yet she moaned and cried and begged -to be taken home. Finally the Americans who had been in the automobile -at the time of the accident, and had left a deposit of money to pay for -every comfort and surgical attention that the girl could possibly need, -consented to her removal, because the doctor said she was fretting -herself into a fever. So they brought the automobile to the hospital, -placed her carefully in a bed of pillows in the tonneau, and carried -her back into the mountains to her "home," a one-room cabin of the most -repulsive and wretched sort, which, as my friend told me, he wouldn't -have kept his horse in. The walls were of rude stone piled one on -another without mortar and the roof was made of straw. There was no -floor but the earth, no furniture but a hard wooden bench, a table, and -a three-legged stool. There was no window, and the only light that there -was came through the door, which opened into a loathsome barnyard, where -the filth was ankle deep and the stench almost insufferable. And yet -when they laid the poor creature on the earthen floor she gave a long -sigh of relief and satisfaction and thanked them for bringing her -"home." It is true the world over that people prize things that are -worthless if they happen to be all they possess. The less we have the -more valuable it becomes; the more we have the less we value it. This -trait may be found in the mountains of Switzerland, in Lapland, in -Norway, and other countries where people enjoy the least blessings and -comforts and where living is a constant struggle. - -The Congested Districts Board consists of Sir Antony MacDonnell, under -secretary for Ireland, who has recently been elevated to the peerage as -Lord MacDonnell of Swineford; Sir Horace Plunkett, a well known -agriculturalist; Rev. Dennis O'Hara, a Catholic priest of County Clare; -Henry Dorran, the chief inspector and executive officer in actual charge -of the work, and Mr. O'Connor, the solicitor in charge of the office -work. The board is constituted by an act of parliament and has a large -staff of agents and officials in the field. - -[Illustration: AN IRISH CABIN IN COUNTY DONEGAL.] - -The work of the board may be classified as follows: - -1. The purchase and division of estates into small farms and placing -thereon families who are unable to earn a decent living in their present -surroundings. - -2. The enlargement of holdings by the purchase of neighboring property -for those who cannot be moved. - -3. The construction of decent and comfortable cottages for the poor, in -the place of the wretched cabins they now occupy, and the repair of -their present homes as far as possible. - -4. The construction of public works, road building, the draining of -swampy lands, and other undertakings that will furnish work and wages to -the poor. - -5. Aiding fishermen along the coast by furnishing boats and equipment -and by securing them a market. - -6. Instruction of the women in industries that can be carried on in the -home, such as weaving, lace-making, and knitting. - -7. Schools of housewifery for the training of mountain peasant girls for -domestic service. - -8. Loans of money to farmers to purchase cattle, sheep, and other means -of self-support. - -9. General improvement and repair of homes and the relief of individual -distress through parish committees. - -In 1907 the board purchased 121,213 acres for the sum of £161,684, which -it is now cutting up into small farms and moving to them families which -are unable to make a living in the mountain districts. Thus far 544 -families have been moved in this way and placed in comfortable homes at -an average cost of $435 per family, not including the price of the land; -1,372 dwelling-houses have been erected, and 1,266 buildings on these -and other farms already occupied have been erected at the expense of the -board. In addition to furnishing a farm and a cottage the board gives -its _protégés_, wherever it is necessary, cows, goats, pigs, and -chickens. All this is paid for by money advanced from the public -treasury, which is reimbursed by the beneficiary at the rate of 3-1/2; -per cent a year. Of this 2-3/4; per cent is interest upon the investment, -and three-fourths of one per cent annually goes into a sinking fund to -redeem at maturity the bonds issued to furnish the money. The average -annual payment by the families which have thus been removed is £17 -10_s._ or $87.50 in our money. The people who have been benefited can -sell their new homes or dispose of them by inheritance so long as the -interest is paid promptly, but they cannot divide them. - -I have before me a statement showing each transaction, and find that the -following figures represent the number of acres given: - - 176 acres 15 acres 206 acres - 174 acres 438 acres 245 acres - 362 acres 177 acres 34 acres - 371 acres 76 acres 67 acres - 254 acres 271 acres 249 acres - 318 acres 311 acres 76 acres - 240 acres 90 acres 152 acres - 136 acres 66 acres 118 acres - 119 acres 111 acres 106 acres - -These figures illustrate the size of the farms that are being provided, -and the acreage varies according to the fertility of the land. The board -intends to give each of its _protégés_ what is called "an economic -holding"; that is, sufficient land to support his family and produce a -surplus sufficient to enable him to pay his interest and lay by a little -something for a rainy day. - -During 1908 it has moved eighty families from County Galway to County -Roscommon and placed them all upon fertile farms, in comfortable new -cottages of four rooms each, at an average cost of one thousand dollars, -not including the price of the land. In addition to this most of the -families have been granted loans varying from twenty-five to sixty -dollars as working capital, to provide tools, implements, necessary -furniture, and other articles. - -In addition to this general work in more than eight hundred parishes in -counties Kerry, Clare, Galway, Mayo, Donegal, and Sligo, local -committees have been appointed consisting of the parish priest, the -Church of Ireland rector, the parish doctor, and one of the magistrates, -who have immediate supervision over local conditions and make -recommendations for the application of small sums of money for the -improvement of the comforts and health of the people. These local -committees are authorized to repair and improve the homes of farmers, -fishermen, and other workingmen where it can be done economically, and -to erect new homes for them whenever it is necessary, upon certain -conditions, which involve a radical change in the habits of most of the -Irish peasants. In order to secure benefits of this kind the family is -required to remove the dunghill from its usual place in front of the -door, to clean up all around the cabin and keep the place in order, to -keep the pig, the cattle, and the chickens out of the house, and to keep -the interior in a state of sanitary cleanliness. Materials are furnished -to cottagers who are willing to make these improvements for themselves. - -It is astonishing that so many peasants will fight such improvements and -often resist attempts that are made to clean up their places and make -them more comfortable. The dunghill has always been in front of the door -and the offal and garbage from the house have been dumped upon it for -generations. They are accustomed to the sickening stench and, as one of -the inspectors told me, they find it difficult to get along without it. -"They wouldn't be happy unless there was a bad smell," he remarked. But -in most cases the conditions are cheerfully accepted and the -improvements appreciated. Last year 1,193 cottages were improved in this -manner at a cost of £31,812. - -During the greater part of the year more than three thousand men are -employed by the Congested Districts Board in the counties along the -Atlantic coast, roadmaking, draining lands, fencing, building houses, -bridges, and other improvements, and in planting larches and other trees -that grow in this climate. This has not only kept them busy at good -wages, but has made important permanent improvements. The total area of -land drained last year was 12,089 acres at a cost of £11,391. - -The amount of money spent on roads, bridges, piers, docks, and other -public works during the year was £7,102. - -One of the most interesting features of the work is the fisheries. There -is an abundance of fish all along the coast and there is always a demand -for them in the London market, either fresh or cured, but the peasants -until recently have had no boats or nets and were unable to raise the -money to provide them. The villages on the shores of the coves and bays -had no landing places for boats, no facilities for storing or curing -fish, and all of these things the board is now trying to provide. It has -several methods of doing so. Wherever necessary docks have been -constructed with warehouses, packing-houses, and cooper shops, and the -board has agencies for furnishing salt, ice, and other necessaries for -the fishing business at cost prices. Docks have been built at a dozen -places costing from $500 to $15,000, which are free to the public and -bring no return. - -The board will furnish boats, nets, and the rest of an outfit to a -fisherman, to be paid for in five annual installments, and it has gone -into partnership with the fishermen, in three hundred cases furnishing -the outfit at an average cost of £350 and dividing the proceeds into -nine shares. Six of these shares go to the crew and three to the -government to pay the interest on the investment and create a sinking -fund. When that fund has reached the total of the investment, the entire -property is handed over to the crew. Nearly four hundred thousand -dollars is invested in such partnerships by the government. The -Congested Districts Board finds the market and supervises the sale of -the fish. It also furnishes experts to instruct fishermen in the -business and show them how to make their own barrels. - -In other chapters I have told you about the schools for lace-making and -for training the peasant girls for house servants. There are altogether -eighteen schools for servants and forty-three schools for lace-making -and embroidery, besides crochet work, knitting, and weaving. I observe -in the annual report of the board concerning the "domestic training -schools" this sentence: "The pupils can very easily find situations in -this country as domestic servants, and it is a mistake to suppose that -the greater portion of them go to America after the course of training." - -The following table shows the amounts of money expended in this -benevolent work by the Congested Districts Board since its organization -in 1891 up to 1907: - - 1891-92 £3,660 1900-01 168,864 - 1892-93 50,266 1901-02 199,626 - 1893-94 47,259 1902-03 210,054 - 1894-95 74,886 1903-04 197,451 - 1895-96 81,907 1904-05 229,065 - 1896-97 87,196 1905-06 375,065 - 1897-98 99,200 1906-07 341,580 - 1898-99 107,082 ---------- - 1899-1900 417,411 Gr. total £2,690,572 - - -This expenditure is equivalent to $13,478,600 in American money. - -Denis Johnston, assistant secretary of the United Irish League, gave me -several photographs which illustrate in a striking manner what is being -done for the improvement of the poor peasants in the west of Ireland. He -shows with the accuracy of the camera the appearance of the cabins in -which human beings have lived for generations, and in one case from -which they were driven out because they were too poor to pay the rent -even for such a hovel as appears in the picture. On the other hand, he -photographs the neat and comfortable cottage of artificial stone with -slate roof which has been recently erected in its place by the Congested -Districts Board. It is now the home of the same family that formerly -lived in the miserable shack which was occupied by the fathers and -grandfathers for several generations before them. - -These are not exceptional or isolated cases. They are types of -habitations that once existed and in a large measure still exist on the -large estates in the west of Ireland, and the second photograph shows -the improvements that are being made as rapidly as the funds will -permit. I have seen similar cabins, for many of them still exist, and -are still occupied as homes by human beings. In some of them large -families are crowded, six, eight, and often ten people, in a single -room. I was told by a friend of one wretched, loathsome hovel that he -found in County Kerry where nineteen human creatures were living. These -photographs of Mr. Johnston show what has been and is being accomplished -and illustrate the methods and purposes of the Congested Districts -Board. - -"All this has been done by the pressure brought upon the government by -the Irish parliamentary party," said Mr. Johnston; "and its members are -entitled to the credit of what has been accomplished. Every concession -that has been made, every reform that has been ordered, every dollar -that has been voted for those improvements, has been obtained by -threatening revolution, and the government has been compelled to yield. - -"In 1880 it was quite within the power of the landlords of Ireland to -evict tenants from their holdings by merely serving them with a notice -to quit. The Irish parliamentary party, with the organized forces of the -Irish race behind them, in 1881 secured the passage of the Land Act of -that year, which reduced the rents by nearly $10,000,000. Under this -measure the tenant farmers of Ireland were first vested with a right in -their farms. They had the power to enter a land court constituted under -that act for the purpose of having fair and reasonable rents fixed upon -the property they occupied at intervals of fifteen years, and they were -practically secured from the interference of the landlords or their -agents so long as such rents which were called 'judicial rents,' were -paid. - -"In the following year, 1882, the Arrears of Rent Act was secured by the -Irish parliamentary party under the leadership of Parnell, and that -measure wiped off the slate in some cases ten years of unpaid rents and -in others less. The act certainly benefited the people of Ireland to the -extent of at least $15,000,000. Thus the rent question was placed upon a -fair judicial basis and extortion was impossible as long as the tenant -could appeal to a tribunal constituted for that very purpose against -unfair and unjust claims by his landlord. What are known as 'judicial -rents'--that is, rents fixed by such courts and based upon the quality, -the value, and the productive capacity of the land--have since prevailed -very generally throughout Ireland, and they are now being used as the -basis for calculating the selling price of the farms that are being -purchased by the tenants on the big estates under the Land Act of -1903. - -[Illustration: THE OLD: A LABORER'S SOD CABIN] - -[Illustration: THE NEW: EXAMPLE OF THE COTTAGES BUILT IN CONNEMARA BY -THE CONGESTED DISTRICTS BOARD] - -"In 1883 was passed what is known as the Act for the Building of -Cottages for the Laborers of Ireland. The benefits of that measure can -never be calculated. Under its authority nearly twenty-five thousand -comfortable and neat cottages have been built for laborers throughout -the whole country, and the miserable habitations, hovels of stone with -leaky straw roofs, in which thousands of honest, hard-working peasants -have been compelled to live, have been torn down and replaced with such -buildings as you see in the picture, with walls of cement and roofs of -slate. In addition to the improvement in their habitations, an acre of -land is given with each cottage on which it is possible for the laborer -to raise vegetables sufficient for his household. No estimate in money -can possibly be made of the benefits that the people of Ireland have -enjoyed from that act. - -"In 1885 the Irish party secured the passage of the first Land Purchase -Act and followed it up by winning the acts of 1888 and 1891, which went -farther and still farther and benefited the country to the amount of at -least one hundred and forty millions of dollars. - -"Next came the Act for the Establishment of the Congested Districts -Board," continued Mr. Johnston, "expressly to deal with what are known -as the congested areas of Ireland. These districts are not thickly -settled, like Belgium, as one might have comparatively few population, -but altogether more than the land will support. These are mountain -districts along the rocky shores of the Atlantic Ocean where it is -possible to raise a few cattle and goats that can find pasture in the -narrow little valleys and up the mountain sides, but where there is -seldom enough arable soil in a single patch to support an ordinary -family. For these reasons it is difficult for the most industrious men -to make a living there, and the inhabitants are the poorest, the most -ill-nourished, and the most miserable in all the land. - -"The Congested Districts Board was instructed to buy all the lands it -found necessary in such places, moving some of the inhabitants to other -sections of Ireland, where they would be able to make a living, and -distributing the lands among those that remained in allotments -sufficiently large to enable them to live. In deserving cases the board -is authorized to build comfortable houses to replace the wretched -hovels, to restock the farms, to purchase implements where they are -needed, to provide seed, and do whatever is necessary to give the family -a fair start and enable them to enjoy the results of their labors. The -board is also empowered to build new houses upon the locations selected -for the families which are moved, and has done so in many cases. You -will see in these photographs the character of the cabins that were -formerly occupied by the poor people in the congested districts and the -character of those which have been built to replace them, by the board." - -Mr. Johnston showed me an object lesson in the form of a photograph of a -cottage in County Meath for which a rental of fifteen dollars a year has -been paid by the tenant for many years. It has a single room, a mud -floor, a thatched roof of straw, and is entirely without the simplest -conveniences or comforts. He showed me another photograph of a cottage -built under the Laborers' Act of 1906, which is now occupied by the same -family with the same rent of fifteen dollars a year, with an acre of -ground attached to it as a garden. It is a one-story structure of four -rooms, with two fireplaces, three windows on each side, a slate roof, -and walls of concrete. - -He also showed me a picture of the miserable hovel from which Bernard -King was evicted in 1902. It stands on the De Freyne estate, near the -town of Feigh, County Roscommon. King made a stubborn defense of his -home, but the police finally ejected him. The Estates Commissioners have -put him back, and in place of the miserable hut from which he was -evicted, they have built him a neat two-story six-room cottage that is -good enough for anybody to live in. There could not be any better -illustration of the benefits of the evicted Tenants' Act, and this is a -type of some two thousand cases. - -This humane work will be continued as long and as rapidly as the funds -furnished by the British parliament will permit, and it is difficult -to conceive of more direct and comprehensive benevolence. Ireland is -thus being gradually redeemed, and although conditions are by no means -ideal, the improvement during the last decade is a matter of -congratulation to every Irishman and every sympathizer of the Irish -race. - -[Illustration: INTERIOR AND EXTERIOR OF ONE STORY COTTAGES ERECTED BY THE -CONGESTED DISTRICTS BOARD] - - THE END - - - - -INDEX - - - Aberdeen, Earl of, 34, 44, 54, 154. - Lady, 34. - - Absentee landlords, 133. - - Academy, Royal Irish, 91. - - "Adair, Robin," 271. - - Adare Manor, 429. - - Adare, Village of, 428. - - Addison in Ireland, 90. - - Adrian IV, Pope, 280. - - Agricultural, Department, 13, 38, 404. - education, 404. - Organization Society, 13, 410. - statistics, 251. - - Agriculture in Ireland, 209. - - Alexander, Archbishop, 189. - - All Hallows College, 143. - - American bacon, 417. - flour, 417. - - Anderson, R.A., Secretary Irish Agricultural Organization Society, 412. - - Anecdotes, 260, 463. - - "Annals of the Four Masters," 169, 171, 186, 195, 410. - - Annals of Ulster, 196. - - Antrim County, 209. - - Archbishops of Ireland, 148, 189. - - Area of Ireland, 130. - - Ardilaun, Lord, 16, 348, 357, 384. - - Ard-Ri, The Irish, 174. - - Ark of the Covenant, 177. - - Armagh, Book of, 195. - Cathedral, 192. - City of, 188. - - Art education, 406. - gallery, 93. - - Askeaton Abbey, 427. - Village of, 425. - - Assassination of Cavendish and Burke, 96. - - Automobiles in Ireland, 269. - - Avoca, Vale of, 271. - - - Bailey, W.F., Land Com'r, 62, 130. - - Balbriggan factories, 162. - - Balfe, M.W., memorial, 18. - - "Bally,"--use of the word, 266. - - Ballyhack, Village of, 286. - - Banks, Coöperative, 414. - - Bannow, Ancient town of, 278. - - Bantry, Bay of, 353, 355. - - Bards, The Irish, 267. - - Barry, Arthur Hugh Smith, 296. - - Barrymore, Lord, 296. - - Bassilia de Clare, 278, 281. - - Battle of Clontarf, 123. - - Battle of the Boyne, 167, 213. - - Beggars, Irish, 283. - - Belfast, Castle, 217. - City Hall, 227. - City of, 21, 231. - population of, 222. - Presbyterians of, 223. - Religion in, 223. - rope walk, 235. - shipyards, 236. - Technical School, 230. - - Benevolence of British Government, 460. - - Beresford, Archbishop, 193. - family, 287. - Lord Charles, 284. - William, 288. - - Betting in Ireland, 305. - - Birmingham, George A., the author, 454. - - Birr Castle Observatory, 10. - - Birrell, Augustine, 35. - - Birth rate, Irish, 253. - - Bishops of Ireland, 148. - - Blackrock, Cork, 117. - - Bladensburg, Battle of, 210, 419. - - Blake, Sir Henry, 331. - - Blarney, Castle, 320. - origin of term, 322. - Stone, 323. - - Bogs, Irish, 7. - - Boleyn, Anne, 289. - - Boycott, Birthplace of the, 433. - forbidden by priests, 434. - of landlords, 16, 136. - - Boyle, Richard, Earl of Cork, 19, 54, 322. - - Boyne, Battle of the, 167, 213. - Valley of the, 167. - - Brewery, the Guinness, 16. - - Brian Boru, 105, 123, 125, 188. - - Bruce, Edward, 197. - - Bryce, James, 35, 44, 219, 460. - - Buildings erected by government, 71. - - Burke, Edmund, 85. - - Burke, Sir Bernard, 57. - - Butler, James, first Earl of Ormonde, 326. - - - Cabins, Irish, 12, 74, 358, 461, 465. - - Car, Jaunting, 310, 449. - - Carrick Castle, 289. - - Carrickfergus, 214, 218. - - Carrickmacross lace, 344. - - Carton House, 151. - - Cashel, History of, 9. - Ruins of, 9. - - Castle, Dublin, 35, 53. - Kilkenny, 325. - - Castles, Ruined, 289. - - Cathedral, at Cork, 316. - at Armagh, 193. - - Christ Church, at Dublin, 15, 281. - Downpatrick, 196. - Kilkenny, 325. - Limerick, 419. - Londonderry, 242. - St. Patrick's, Dublin, 14. - - Catholic, Roman, hierarchy, 148. - Church in Ireland, 51. - - Cattle, breeding, 63. - driving, 63, 434. - - Causeway, The Giant's, 243. - - Census of Ireland, 130, 252. - - Channel, Irish, 213. - - Characteristics, Irish, 260, 436, 461. - - Charity in Ireland, 360, 460. - - Charles I, 46, 333. - - Cherries, First, in Ireland, 334. - - Chesterfield, Lord, 57. - - Chief Secretary for Ireland, 35. - - Children, Behavior of, 360. - - Choirs, Church, 31, 100. - - Christ Church Cathedral, 32, 281. - - Christian Brothers' schools, 150. - - Churches in Belfast, 222. - - Church Land Acts, 50, 67. - - Church statistics, 49. - - City Hall, Belfast, 237. - - Civil Service of Ireland, 78. - - Clanricarde, Marquess of, 20, 137, 432. - - Clergy, Irish, 149. - - Clifden, Town of, 443. - - Climate of Ireland, 166, 320. - - Clontarf battlefield, 123. - - Coaching in Ireland, 367. - - College, Queen's, at Belfast, 227. - Queen's, at Cork, 313. - Queen's, at Galway, 440. - Trinity, Dublin, 97. - Magee, Londonderry, 242. - Maynooth, 143. - All Hallows, 143. - - Colthurst, Sir George, 321. - - Columba, Saint, 170. - - Commerce of Ireland, 253. - - Comyn, Archbishop of Dublin, 16. - - Condensed milk factories, 418. - - Confederation, Irish, 324. - - Congested Districts Board, 13, 38, 339, 358, 459, 465. - - Connemara, Poverty in, 443. - Scenery of, 443. - - Cooke, Rev. Dr., of Belfast, 224. - - Coöperation among farmers, 412. - credit societies, 414. - - Coöperative stores, 412. - - Corbet, Miles, 160. - - Cork, City of, 212. - Earl of, 19, 292, 332. - Harbor of, 6. - - Cormac, King, 169, 175, 183. - - Coronation Stone, British, 177. - of the O'Neills, 238. - - Cottages erected by the government, 12, 425, 463. - - Courcy, Sir John de, 196. - - Courts, The Irish, 56. - - Creameries, Coöperative, 412. - - Crime in Ireland, 401. - - Croughpatrick, Mount of, 451. - - Croker, Richard, 3, 306. - - Cromwell, Oliver, 56, 163, 270, 284, 289, 336, 344, 357. - - Crops in Ireland, 130. - - Crosses of Monasterboice, 166. - - Cultivated area in Ireland, 70, 130. - - Curragmore Castle, 287. - - Curran, Philpott, 18. - - Curran, Sarah, 83, 84. - - Customs, Irish, 260. - - - Dairies, Irish, 418. - - Dalkey, suburb of Dublin, 119. - - Davis, John H., 218. - - Davitt, Michael, 79. - - Death rate in Ireland, 253. - - Declan, Saint, 9. - - Derry, Town of, 257. - - Desmond, Earl of, 330, 332. - Lady, 332. - rebellion, 330. - - Devolution policy, 36. - - Devonshire, Duke of, 134, 292. - - Dillon, John, 44. - - Disestablishment, The, 33, 49. - - Disraeli, Lord, 148. - - Donkeys, Irish, 311. - - Donnybrook Fair, 128. - - Dougherty, Sir John, 37. - - Doughnamore, Lord, 329. - - Downpatrick Abbey, 197. - - Downpatrick Cathedral, 187, 196. - - Drogheda, City of, 159. - Massacre of, 163. - - Druids, The, 169. - - Drink bill of Ireland, 392. - - Drunkenness in Ireland, 229, 391. - - Dublin, Castle, 53. - City government of, 44. - Lord Mayor of, 44. - Name of, 47. - Population of, 49. - Sacred spots in, 77. - University of, 102. - - Dudley, Countess of, 364. - Earl, 44. - - Dufferin, Lord, 217. - - Dunraven, Earl of, 36, 428. - - Dunsany Castle, 186. - Lord, 410. - - - Earls, Flight of the, 214. - - Eccles Hotel, Glengariff, 354. - - Edgeworth, Maria, 454. - - Education, 12, 109. - Agricultural, 404. - Art, 406. - at Maynooth, 144. - at Belfast, 231. - at Cork, 315. - Expenditures for, 111. - Roman Catholic, 101. - Statistics of, 111. - Technical, 405. - - Edward I, 177. - - Edward VII, 104. - - Electric railway, The first, 243. - - Elizabeth, Queen, 100, 103, 270, 291, 322, 331, 451. - - Ellen's Tower at Belfast, 218. - - Ely, Earl of, 278. - - Emigrants returning, 2. - - Emigration, 2, 134, 243, 247, 250, 253, 298, 360, 418, 437. - - Emmet, Robert, 79, 82, 118. - - England, Hatred of, 38. - - Epitaphs, Curious, 336, 420. - - Estates, Commission, Work of, 60. - Sale of, 60. - - Eva, The Princess, 278, 280, 281. - - Evictions in Ireland, 134, 136, 138, 140, 142, 470, 472. - - Expenses of government, 39, 253. - - Excursions about Dublin, 115. - - - "Faerie Queene, The," 271, 337. - - Fairies, Irish, 345. - - Farms sold by government, 65. - - Farms, Prices of, 65. - - Farm labor, 75. - - Farm lands, 130. - - Farmers, Education of, 407. - - Father Mathew, 77. - - "Father Prout," the poet, 316, 321. - - Faversham, Earl of, 153. - - Fergus, First Scottish king, 179. - - Fenians, The original, 183. - - Ferns, Town of, 275. - - Finances of land sales, 64. - - Fin-Barre, Saint, 314, 350. - - Fighting, Irish love of, 436. - - Fisheries, The, 13, 441, 445, 465, 467. - - Fitzgerald, Family history of, 155. - Gerald, 10, 19, 137. - Lord Edward, 84, 117, 126. - Maurice, 146, 155. - - Fitzgibbon, John, 136. - - Flax culture, 234. - - Flour, American, 417. - - Foley, Captain James Arthur Wellington, 328. - - Four Courts of Dublin, 48. - - Frascati, Estate of, 117. - - French invasion of Ireland, 355. - - Fruit, Scarcity of, 449. - - - Gaelic League, 455. - - Gaelic, Study of, 456. - - Gallery, National, 93. - - Galway, City of, 432, 438. - - Gambling in Ireland, 269, 305. - - George I, 22. - - Gerald, Thomas, 156. - - Geraldines, The, 157. - - Ginger ale, Manufacture of, 212, 235. - - Gladstone, William E., 39, 147. - - Glencare, Earl of, 371. - - Glendalough, Valley of, 272. - - Glengariff, Church of, 362. - Legend of, 370. - Town of, 345, 353. - - Goldsmith, Oliver, 454. - - "Gombeen Man," The, 72. - - Gougane Island, 349. - - Government, of Ireland, 34, 38. - of City of Dublin, 44. - - Grace, Michael P., 328. - - Grattan, Henry, 80. - - Grave of Parnell, 78. - - Grey, Lord, 197, 291, 330. - - Griffith, Arthur, 203. - - Guinness, Benjamin, 16. - Brewery, 399. - - - Hale, J.P., 294. - - Hall, Rev. Dr. John, 220. - - Hammersley, Lillian, 288. - - Hamilton, Sir William, 90. - - Hannay, Rev. J.M., the author, 454. - - Harp of Tara, 183. - - Harps, The Irish, 266. - - Harrington, Timothy, 46. - - Headford, Marquess of, 171. - - Hemans, Mrs., 90. - - Handel's "Messiah," 87. - - Henderson, Sir James, 231. - - Hennessy, Sir John Cope, 331. - - Henry II, of England, 9, 47, 54, 280. - - Henry VII, 369. - - Henry VIII, 15, 100, 157, 270. - - "Himself," The title, 264. - - Historic spots in Dublin, 77. - - Hogan, Professor, 143. - - Hollybrook, 270. - - Home, Love of, Irish, 463. - - Home Rule, 11, 36, 39. - - "Hook or Crook," Origin of phrase, 280. - - Horse Show, Dublin, 310. - - Horses, Irish, 300, 311. - - Hotels in Ireland, 166. - - Housewifery, Schools of, 465. - - Howth, Earl of, 126. - Village of, 121. - - Huguenots in Ireland, 284. - - Hussey, Dr., 145. - - Hyde, Douglas, 455. - - - Imports of Ireland, 253. - - Improvement, in conditions, 73. - in cottages, 465. - - Insane asylums, 25, 379. - - Insanity, Irish, Causes of, 265, 402. - - Intemperance in Ireland, 229, 391. - - Interest paid by land buyers, 61, 65. - - Invasion, French, 355. - of Ireland, The first, 280. - - Ireland, Kings of, 290. - - Ireton, General, 422. - - Irish Academy, 91. - - Irish as farmers, 69. - - Irish in the United States, 257. - - Iveagh, Lord, 17, 91. - - - Jaunting car, 310, 449. - - James I, 239, 331. - - James II, 213, 214, 240. - - Jewel robbery, The, 58. - - Johnston, Dennis, Ass't Secretary, United Irish League, 136, 469. - - Jones, John Paul, 218. - - - Keimaneigh, Pass of, 352. - - Kells, Book of, 105, 171. - Village of, 170. - - Kelvin, Lord, 219. - - Kenmare, Earl of, 371. - House, 373. - Lady, 375. - Park, 374. - Village of, 368. - - Kilbarrack, Abbey of, 126. - - Kilcolman Castle, 291, 330. - - Kilcrea Abbey, 344. - - Kildare, House, 94. - Earl of, 10, 19, 20, 137, 152, 156. - "Silken Thomas," 146, 156. - - Kilkea Castle, 152. - - Kilkenny Castle, 325. - - "Kilkenny Cats," Story of, 325. - City of, 323. - Statues of, 323. - - Killarney, Lakes of, 366, 375. - Village of, 379. - - Killeen Castle, 186. - - Kings, Ancient, of Ireland, 174. - - Knabenshue, S.S., 245. - - Kylemore Castle, 450. - - - Labor, Farm, 75. - Lack of, in Ireland, 250. - - Lace work, 13, 256, 339, 360, 468. - - Lacy, Hugh de, 187, 281. - - Land Act, Wyndham, 60, 152. - acts, Various, 68. - disturbances, 432. - - Land League, 295. - - "Landless," The, 459. - - Landlord and Tenant Act, 67. - - Landlords, Irish, 60, 130, 131. - - Land troubles, 295. - - Land war of 1901, 136. - - Lansdowne, Marquess of, 141, 368. - - Laracor, Town of, 27. - - Lawrence family, The, 127. - - League, United Irish, 135. - - Lee, River, 6, 312, 350. - - Legend of the O'Neills, 215. - - Legends, of Ireland, 160, 191, 367. - of Killarney, 370, 379. - of Limerick, 424. - - Leinster, Duke of, 20, 41, 62, 92, 117, 146, 151. - - Leopardstown races, 300. - - Lever, Charles, 90, 121. - - Lewis', Mrs., land case, 137, 139. - - Lexington, Irish at Battle of, 18. - - "Lia Fail," Coronation Stone, 177. - - Library, National, 106. - Royal, 93. - Trinity College, 97, 105. - - Liffey River, 115. - - Limerick, City of, 417. - lace, 340. - Women of, 422. - - Linen, Manufacture of, 211, 232. - - Liquor, Consumption of, 400. - licenses, 363, 391. - - Lismore, Earl of, 299. - Town of, 293. - - Literary reminiscences, Dublin, 90. - - Logue, Cardinal, 143, 189, 194, 257. - - Londonderry, Apprentices' Hall, 241. - shirt factories, 242. - Siege of, 240. - Statue of Walker, 240. - Town of, 237. - Wall of, 239. - - Lord Gough, 77. - - Lord Lieutenant, The, 34. - - Lover, Samuel, 18, 90. - - Lundy, Col. Robert, 241. - - Lynch, Story of Mayor, 440. - - Lyne, Lucius, Croker's jockey, 307. - - - Macaulay, Thomas Babington, 148. - - MacCarthy, Cormac, 322. - Eleanor, 158, 322. - - MacCarthys, The, 344, 385. - - MacCool, Fin, 379. - - MacDonnell, Sir Antony Patrick, 36. - - Macroom, Village of, 348. - - Magee, Alexander, Swift's servant, 27. - - Magee College, 108, 242. - - Mahoney, Rev. Francis ("Father Prout"), 316. - - Malachi the Great, 123. - - Malehide, 160. - - Manchester, Duke of, 450. - - Mansion House, Dublin, 46. - - Manufacturing in Ireland, 255. - - Marconi's wireless station, 448. - - Mareschal, William Le, 325. - - Marlborough, Duchess of, 288. - - Martello towers, 163. - - Martin, Col. Richard, 447. - - Mary, Queen of Scots, 161. - - Massareene, Lord, 140. - - Mathew, Father, 177, 319. - - Maynooth, Castle of, 144, 155. - College, 108, 143. - - McKinley, ancestry, 245. - cottage, 245. - - McMurrough, Dermot, 275, 278. - - "Meeting of the Waters," 271. - - Methodists, Irish, 52. - - Meyer, Prof. Hugo, 456. - - Migration of labor, 462. - - Missions, Protestant, 339. - - Monasterboice, Ruins of, 164. - Crosses of, 166. - - Monastery, Trappist, 341. - - Monks, Irish, 51. - - Monument, O'Connell, 77. - Nelson's, 77. - Parnell, 78. - Patriotic, at Cork, 318. - - Moore, Tom, 84, 89, 183. - - Motoring in Ireland, 166. - - Mountain people, The, 358. - - Muckross Abbey, 384, 388. - House, 384. - - Municipal utilities in Belfast, 231. - - Museum, Dublin, 94. - - Music in churches, 31, 100. - - Myrtle Lodge at Youghal, 330. - - - Nanetti, G.P., 45. - - National Irish League, 136. - party, 36, 39, 141. - - Navan, Village of, 172. - - Nelson monument, 77. - - Newgate Prison, 95. - - Niall of the Nine Hostages, 170, 177, 215. - - Nobility, Irish, The, 41, 56, 131. - - Nuns, Irish, 51. - - Nurses for the poor, 360. - - - O'Brien, Donald, King of Limerick, 9, 419. - William, 295. - - O'Callaghans, The, 299. - - O'Callahan, Bishop of Cork, 319. - - O'Connell, Daniel, 39, 87, 177. - monument, 77. - Street, 78. - - O'Conor, Roderick, 187, 279. - - O'Connor, Solicitor Congested Districts Board, 463. - - O'Dohertys, The, 239. - - O'Donahues, The, 44, 378, 385. - - O'Donnell, Rory, 216. - - O'Flahertys, The, 445. - - Old Home Week, 247. - - O'Malley, Grace, Queen of Connaught, 127, 451. - - O'Neill, The Coronation Stone, 178, 238. - Hugh, 216, 239. - Owen, 239. - Shane, 216. - - O'Neills, The, 215. - - Orangemen, The, 213. - - Ormonde, Earls of, 19, 325, 327. - - O'Toole, Lawrence, 280. - - O'Tooles, The, 272. - - Otter hunting, 318. - - - Pale of Dublin, The, 48. - - Pamela (Lady Edward Fitzgerald), 117. - - Parks, Dublin, 91. - - Parliament House, Irish, 24. - The Irish, 56, 81. - - Parnell, Charles S., 44, 297. - Home of, 271. - Grave of, 78. - Monument to, 78. - - Passage, Town of, 6. - - Peat, Value of, 7. - - Peel, Sir Robert, 147. - - Peerage, the Irish, 39, 57, 131. - - Pembroke, Earl of, 279. - - "Penelope's Irish Experiences," 167. - - Penn, William, birthplace, 348. - - Phoenix Park, 35, 95. - - "Pig in the Parlor, The," 359. - - "Plan of Campaign, The," 136, 295. - - Planters, English, 138, 269. - Scotch-Irish, 214. - - Plunkett family, The, 186. - Sir Horace, 255, 404, 410. - - Population statistics, 130. - of Belfast, 222. - of Dublin, 49. - - Portraine, Village of, 161. - - Portrush, Town of, 243. - - Post, Mrs. Elizabeth Wadsworth, 296. - - Potatoes of Ireland, 130, 334. - - Poverty, in Limerick, 422. - in Ireland, 358. - - Presbyterian House of Belfast, 224. - Seminary, Belfast, 227. - - Presbyterians, Irish, 52, 214. - - Price of land, 65. - - Priests, Irish, 51, 144, 149, 397. - - Property owners of Ireland, 130. - - Prosperity of Ireland, 10. - - Protestants, Scotch-Irish, 213. - - "Prout, Father," the poet, 6. - - - Queen's Colleges, The, 108. - College, Belfast, 227. - Cork, 313. - Galway, 440. - - Queenstown, Landing at, 2. - Surroundings of, 4. - - - Racing in Ireland, 300. - - Railway, The first electric, 243. - - Railways in Ireland, 1, 343. - - Rain in Ireland, 166, 228, 320. - - Raleigh, Carew, 332. - Lady, 331, 332. - Sir Walter, 322, 330, 336. - - Rebellion, The Kildare, 157. - - Rebellions, Irish, 55. - - Redemption of Ireland, 60. - - Redmond, John, 44. - Statue of, 276. - - Reformation, The, 198. - - Religion in Belfast, 222. - in Ireland, 149. - - Religious antagonisms, 213. - statistics, 49. - tests in education, 107. - - Remembrancer, Treasury, 37. - - Rents, Land, 12, 61, 133. - Reduction of, 12. - - Resorts, Seashore, 268. - - Reunions, Irish, 247. - - Revenues, 39. - - Revolution of '98, 118. - - Ri of Ireland, The, 174. - - Rice, Edmund, 150. - - Riding House, 293. - - Riots, Religious, 213. - - Roberts, Lord, 284. - - "Robin Adair," Song of, 271. - - Roe, Henry, distiller, 32. - - Romance of the Kildares, 157. - - Ropewalk at Belfast, 235. - - Ross Castle, Killarney, 379. - Sir John, 210. - - Rosse, Earl of, 10. - - Rostrevor, Town of, 210. - - Rothschild, Baron, 88. - - Ruins, Cromwellian, 344. - Kilkenny, 324. - - Sacred spots in Dublin, 77. - - St. Bridget, 195, 200. - Grave of, 195. - - St. Columba, 195, 201. - Grave of, 195. - - St. Columba's Stone, 238. - - St. Kevin, 273. - - St. Michan's Church, 86. - - St. Patrick, 47, 164, 169, 188, 195, 199, 239, 451. - Grave of, 195. - Knights of, 17, 57. - Relics of, 92. - Statue of, 177. - Story of, 352. - - St. Patrick's Cathedral, Dublin, 15. - - St. Stephen's Green, Dublin, 91. - - Salaries of officials, 35. - of school teachers, 114. - - Salmon fishing at Galway, 441. - - Saloons in Ireland, 363, 391. - - Sarsfield, General Patrick, 422. - - Saul, Monastery of, 198. - - Scenery, Irish, 269, 353, 377, 443, 449. - - Schomberg, Duke of, 25. - - Scone, Stone of, 178. - - School for servants, 382. - - Schools in Ireland, 12, 109. - - Scotch-Irish characteristics, 213. - - Scotland tunnel, 213. - - Scott, Sir Walter, 91. - - Seashore resorts, 268. - - Secretary, Chief, of Ireland, 35. - Under, for Ireland, 35. - - Selkirk, Lord and Lady, 219. - - Servant girls, Irish, 3. - - Servants, School for, 382. - - Seven Churches, The, 273. - - Shaftesbury, Earl of, 217. - - Shandon Bells, 317. - - Shillelagh, Woods of, 271. - - Shipyards, Belfast, 236. - - Shirt factories in Londonderry, 242. - - Showers in Ireland, 166. - - Sigtryg, The Danish King, 32, 123, 124, 161, 284. - - "Silken Thomas" Kildare, 146, 156, 322. - - Sinn Fein movement, 202. - - Skerries, Village of, 162. - - Skreen, Hill of, 179. - - Sligo, Marquess of, 139, 453. - - Snakes banished by St. Patrick, 452. - - Society in Ireland, 54. - - Soda water, Manufacture of, 212, 235. - - Soldiers, Irish, 17. - - Spenser, Edmund, 291, 330, 336. - - Stage drivers, Irish, 348. - - Stager, Miss Ellen, 328. - - Starkie, Dr., Commissioner of Education, 111. - - Statistics, Agricultural, 251. - Religious, 49, 50, 222. - - Statues in Dublin, 78. - - "Stella," 161, 173. - - Stores, Coöperative, 413. - - Strafford, Earl of, 19. - - Street car lines, in Dublin, 115. - - Strongbow, 32, 278, 280, 281, 285. - - Students at Trinity College, 99. - Irish, 144. - - Superstitions, Irish, 265, 345. - - Swift, Dean, 20, 24, 30, 56, 75, 161, 173. - - Swords, Village of, 161. - - Synod, Episcopal, 33. - - - Talbot Castle, 160. - - Tara Harp, 105. - Village of, 168, 179. - - Taxes, 39. - - Taylor, Rev. Jeremy, 198. - - Tea, Excessive use of, 265. - - Technical school, Belfast, 230. - - Temperance in Ireland, 12, 319. - reforms, 12. - - Temple, Sir William, 21, 27. - - Tenantry, Irish, 66. - - Thackeray's comments on Swift, 29. - - Tipperary, Town of, 294. - - Tobacco, First, in Ireland, 337. - - Tombs, Ancient, 169. - - Tone, Wolfe, 118. - - Tourists, Habits of, 1. - - Towers, Martello, 163. - Round, 165. - - Tracy, Rev. Father Edmond, 428. - - Trade education, 406. - Foreign, 255. - - Tram rides of Dublin, 119. - - Trappist monastery, 341. - - Treasury, Irish, 38. - - Treaty of Limerick, 422. - - Trial by combat, 55. - - Trim, Village of, 172. - - Trinity College, Dublin, 21, 97, 99. - - Tristram and Isolde, original of, 127. - - Tumuli, Ancient, 168. - - Turf, The Irish, 300. - - Turgesius, King of Limerick, 424. - - "Twelve Bens," The, 444. - - Tyrconnell, Earl of, 214. - - Tyrone, Earl of, 214, 239. - - Ulster coat of arms, 215. - Settlement of, 214. - - Undertakers, The, 214, 269, 330. - - United Irish League, 134, 139, 469. - - United States, Exports, 235. - Irish population of, 249, 257. - - Universities of Ireland, 109. - - University, Dublin, 97. - - - Van Homrigh, Miss, Swift's sweetheart, 28. - - Vanity of the people, 211. - - Vale of Avoca, 271. - - Vicar, Sir Arthur, 58. - - Viceregal Lodge, 96. - - Victoria Park, 114. - Queen, 151. - - - Wages, in Belfast, 233. - in Ireland, 252. - - Wakes without liquor, 394. - - Walker, Rev. George, 240. - - Wall of Londonderry, 239. - - Walsh, Dr., Archbishop of Dublin, 397. - - Walsh, John R., builds shrine, 350. - - Walshe, Lacia, Miss, the nurse, 363. - - Warbeck, the Pretender, 284. - - War cries of the clans, 369. - - Waterford, City of, 283. - Marquess of, 289. - - Washington Inn at Dalkey, 121. - - "Wearing of the Green, The," 298. - - Weather in Ireland, 228. - - Wellington, Duke of, 88, 92, 172. - - Wesley, Rev. John, 198. - - Westport, Town of, 452, 453. - - Wexford, Town of, 275, 276. - - Wicklow, County of, 268. - Hills, 272. - - Wigham, W. R., Temperance advocate, 392. - - Wilkinson, Mr., of Tara, 180. - - William of Orange, 25, 213, 214, 422. - - Wit, Irish, 260, 283, 286, 315. - - Wheat growing in Ireland, 417. - - Wolsey, Cardinal, 156. - - Women, Drunken, 394. - in Trinity College, 102. - - Whately, Archbishop, 19, 26, 148. - - Wyndham, George, 136. - - - Youghal, City of, 330, 333. - - -Transcriber's Notes - -On p. 167, the words 'good naturedly' appear without a hyphen, and are -retained as printed. - -On p. 274, the village of Ennisworthy is referred to several times as -the site of the battle of Vinegar Hill. This took place in the environs -of Enniscorthy. The spelling is retained as printed. - - - The following list contains those corrections that were made to the - text as printed. - - p. 125 eats or sleeps or rest[s] Added. - - p. 260 'darlin[,'/',] Corrected. - - p. 262 Seven Churches at Glen[g/d]alough Corrected. - - p. 267 which had be[e]n plagiarized Added. - - p. 281 t[ry/yr]annical Transposed. - - p. 311 cha[u]ffeur Added. - - p. 334 M[ry/yr]tle Lodge Transposed. - - p. 413 ac[c]urately Added. - - p. 427 fifteen feet thick[.] Added. - - - - - -End of Project Gutenberg's One Irish Summer, by William Eleroy Curtis - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ONE IRISH SUMMER *** - -***** This file should be named 43921-8.txt or 43921-8.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/3/9/2/43921/ - -Produced by KD Weeks, Greg Bergquist and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, -set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to -copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to -protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. Project -Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you -charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. If you -do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the -rules is very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose -such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and -research. They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do -practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks. Redistribution is -subject to the trademark license, especially commercial -redistribution. - - - -*** START: FULL LICENSE *** - -THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE -PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK - -To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free -distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work -(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project -Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project -Gutenberg-tm License available with this file or online at - www.gutenberg.org/license. - - -Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works - -1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to -and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property -(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all -the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy -all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession. -If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the -terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or -entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8. - -1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be -used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who -agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few -things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works -even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See -paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement -and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic -works. See paragraph 1.E below. - -1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation" -or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the -collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an -individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are -located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from -copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative -works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg -are removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project -Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by -freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of -this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with -the work. You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by -keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project -Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others. - -1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern -what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in -a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check -the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement -before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or -creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project -Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no representations concerning -the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United -States. - -1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: - -1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate -access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently -whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the -phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project -Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, -copied or distributed: - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - -1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived -from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is -posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied -and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees -or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a work -with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the -work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 -through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the -Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or -1.E.9. - -1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted -with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution -must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional -terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked -to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the -permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work. - -1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm -License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this -work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. - -1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this -electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without -prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with -active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project -Gutenberg-tm License. - -1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, -compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any -word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or -distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than -"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version -posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org), -you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a -copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon -request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other -form. Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm -License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. - -1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, -performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works -unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. - -1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing -access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided -that - -- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from - the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method - you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is - owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he - has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the - Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments - must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you - prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax - returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and - sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the - address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to - the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." - -- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies - you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he - does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm - License. You must require such a user to return or - destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium - and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of - Project Gutenberg-tm works. - -- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any - money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the - electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days - of receipt of the work. - -- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free - distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. - -1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set -forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from -both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael -Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the -Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. - -1.F. - -1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable -effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread -public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm -collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic -works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain -"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or -corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual -property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a -computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by -your equipment. - -1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right -of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project -Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all -liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal -fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT -LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE -PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE -TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE -LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR -INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH -DAMAGE. - -1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a -defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can -receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a -written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you -received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with -your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with -the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a -refund. If you received the work electronically, the person or entity -providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to -receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy -is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further -opportunities to fix the problem. - -1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth -in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO OTHER -WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO -WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. - -1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied -warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages. -If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the -law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be -interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by -the applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of any -provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions. - -1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the -trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone -providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance -with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production, -promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works, -harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees, -that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do -or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm -work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any -Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause. - - -Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm - -Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of -electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers -including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists -because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from -people in all walks of life. - -Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the -assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's -goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will -remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure -and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations. -To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation -and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4 -and the Foundation information page at www.gutenberg.org - - -Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive -Foundation - -The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit -501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the -state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal -Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification -number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg -Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent -permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. - -The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S. -Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered -throughout numerous locations. Its business office is located at 809 -North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887. Email -contact links and up to date contact information can be found at the -Foundation's web site and official page at www.gutenberg.org/contact - -For additional contact information: - Dr. Gregory B. Newby - Chief Executive and Director - gbnewby@pglaf.org - -Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg -Literary Archive Foundation - -Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide -spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of -increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be -freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest -array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations -($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt -status with the IRS. - -The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating -charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United -States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a -considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up -with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations -where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To -SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any -particular state visit www.gutenberg.org/donate - -While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we -have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition -against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who -approach us with offers to donate. - -International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make -any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from -outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. - -Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation -methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other -ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. -To donate, please visit: www.gutenberg.org/donate - - -Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic -works. - -Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm -concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared -with anyone. For forty years, he produced and distributed Project -Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. - -Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed -editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. -unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily -keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. - -Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: - - www.gutenberg.org - -This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, -including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to -subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. |