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diff --git a/43775.txt b/43775.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 4d9cc94..0000000 --- a/43775.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,21554 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Expeditions of Zebulon Montgomery Pike, -Volume II (of 3), by Elliott Coues - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: The Expeditions of Zebulon Montgomery Pike, Volume II (of 3) - To Headwaters of the Mississippi River Through Louisiana - Territory, and in New Spain, During the Years 1805-6-7. - -Author: Elliott Coues - -Release Date: September 21, 2013 [EBook #43775] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ASCII - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EXPEDITIONS OF ZEBULON PIKE, VOL II *** - - - - -Produced by Melissa McDaniel, Charlie Howard, Rachael -Schultz and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at -http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images -generously made available by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - - -Transcriber's Note: - - Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the original document have - been preserved. Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. - - Italic text is denoted by _underscores_. Superscripts are prefixed - with a ^caret. Symbols in the text are noted by [Symbol: ]. Blanks in - the text are represented by ----. - - Footnote numbering, which in the original restarted at "1" with every - chapter, has been prepended with the Roman chapter number (e. g. VI-7 - for the 7th note of chapter 6). Footnotes to Part III are indicated - with a prime (e. g. I'-7). - - Footnote III-37 was missing its anchor. Its location in the text was - approximated. - - This book is the second of three volumes. Page numbering continues - from Volume 1, available at http://www.gutenberg.org/etext/43774. - Volume 3, at http://www.gutenberg.org/etext/43776, contains an - Index and Maps. - - - - - Pike's Expeditions - VOLUME II. - - - - - THE EXPEDITIONS - OF - ZEBULON MONTGOMERY PIKE, - - To Headwaters of the Mississippi River, - Through Louisiana Territory, and in New Spain, - During the Years 1805-6-7. - - A NEW EDITION, - NOW FIRST REPRINTED IN FULL FROM THE ORIGINAL OF 1810, - WITH COPIOUS CRITICAL COMMENTARY, - MEMOIR OF PIKE, NEW MAP AND OTHER ILLUSTRATIONS, - AND COMPLETE INDEX, - - BY - ELLIOTT COUES, - Late Captain and Assistant Surgeon, United States Army, - Late Secretary and Naturalist, United States Geological Survey, - Member of the National Academy of Sciences, - Editor of Lewis and Clark, - etc., etc., etc. - - IN THREE VOLUMES. - VOL. II. - Arkansaw Journey--Mexican Tour. - - NEW YORK: - FRANCIS P. HARPER. - 1895. - - - - - COPYRIGHT, 1895, - BY - FRANCIS P. HARPER, - New York. - - All rights reserved. - - - - -CONTENTS OF VOL. II. - - - PART II. - - THE ARKANSAW JOURNEY. - - - CHAPTER I. PAGES - - ITINERARY: UP THE MISSOURI AND OSAGE RIVERS, AND - THROUGH KANSAS TO THE PAWNEE VILLAGE ON - THE REPUBLICAN RIVER, JULY 15TH-SEPTEMBER - 30TH, 1806, 357-416 - - CHAPTER II. - - ITINERARY, CONTINUED: FROM THE PAWNEE VILLAGE - THROUGH KANSAS AND COLORADO TO PIKE'S PEAK, - OCTOBER 1ST-NOVEMBER 30TH, 1806, 417-459 - - CHAPTER III. - - ITINERARY, CONCLUDED: IN THE MOUNTAINS OF COLORADO - ON HEADWATERS OF THE ARKANSAW AND - RIO GRANDE, DECEMBER 1ST, 1806-FEBRUARY 26TH, - 1807, 460-510 - - CHAPTER IV. - - PIKE'S DISSERTATION ON LOUISIANA, 511-538 - - CHAPTER V. - - WILKINSON'S REPORT ON THE ARKANSAW, 539-561 - - CHAPTER VI. - - CORRESPONDENCE, 562-594 - - - PART III. - - THE MEXICAN TOUR. - - - CHAPTER I. PAGES - - ITINERARY: THROUGH NEW MEXICO ON THE RIO - GRANDE TO EL PASO, FEBRUARY 27TH-MARCH - 21ST, 1807, 595-647 - - CHAPTER II. - - ITINERARY, CONTINUED: THROUGH OLD MEXICO, IN - CHIHUAHUA, DURANGO, AND COAHUILA, TO THE - PRESIDIO GRANDE, MARCH 22D-MAY 31ST, 1807, 648-689 - - CHAPTER III. - - ITINERARY, CONCLUDED: THROUGH TEXAS TO NATCHITOCHES - ON THE RED RIVER OF LOUISIANA, JUNE - 1ST-JULY 1ST, 1807, 690-717 - - CHAPTER IV. - - OBSERVATIONS ON NEW SPAIN, 718-806 - - CHAPTER V. - - CORRESPONDENCE, 807-839 - - CHAPTER VI. - - CONGRESSIONAL REPORT AND ACCOMPANYING DOCUMENTS, 840-856 - - - - -PIKE'S EXPEDITIONS. - - - - -Part II. - -_THE ARKANSAW JOURNEY._ - - - - -CHAPTER I. - -ITINERARY: UP THE MISSOURI AND OSAGE RIVERS, AND THROUGH KANSAS TO THE -PAWNEE VILLAGE ON THE REPUBLICAN RIVER, JULY 15TH-SEPT. 30TH, 1806. - - -Tuesday, July 15th, 1806. We sailed from the landing at Belle -Fontaine[I-1] about 3 o'clock p. m., in two boats. Our party consisted -of two lieutenants, one surgeon, one sergeant, two corporals, 16 -privates and one interpreter.[I-2] We had also under our charge chiefs -of the Osage and Pawnees, who, with a number of women and children, -had been to Washington. These Indians had been redeemed from captivity -among the Potowatomies, and were now to be returned to their friends -at the Osage towns. The whole number of Indians amounted to 51. - -We ascended the river about six miles, and encamped on the south side -behind an island. This day my boat swung around twice; once when we -had a tow-rope on shore, which it snapped off in an instant. The -Indians did not encamp with us at night. Distance six miles.[I-3] - -_July 16th._ We rejoined our red brethren at breakfast, after which we -again separated, and with very severe labor arrived late in the -evening opposite the village of St. Charles,[I-4] where the Indians -joined us. Distance 15 miles. - -_July 17th._ We crossed the river to learn if any communications had -arrived from St. Louis, and if there was any news of other Indian -enemies of the Osages. Called at Mr. James Morrison's, and was -introduced to Mr. [George] Henry, of New Jersey, about 28 years of -age; he spoke a little Spanish and French tolerably well; he wished to -go with me as a volunteer. From this place I wrote letters back to -Belle Fontaine, whilst the Indians were crossing the river. A man by -the name of Ramsay reported to the Indians that 500 Sacs, Ioways, and -Reynards were at the mouth of Big Manitou [_i. e._, the band under -Pashepaho (Stabber) and Quashquame (Lance)]. This gave them -considerable uneasiness, and it took me some time to do away the -impression it made upon them, for I by no means believed it. We were -about sailing when my interpreter [Vasquez] was arrested by the -sheriff at the suit of Manuel De Liza [or Lisa[I-5]], for a debt -between $300 and $400, and was obliged to return to St. Louis. This -made it necessary for me to write another letter to the general.[I-6] -We encamped about three-fourths of a mile above the village. - -_July 18th._ Lieutenant Wilkinson and Dr. Robinson went with [one -soldier and] the Indians across the country to the village of La -Charette.[I-7] Mr. George Henry engaged, under oath, to accompany me -on my tour. Wrote to the general, and inclosed him one of Henry's -engagements.[I-8] After we had made our little arrangements we -marched by land and joined the boats, which had sailed early [in -charge of Sergeant Ballenger], at twelve o'clock. Two of the men being -sick, I steered one boat and Mr. Henry the other, by which means we -were enabled to keep employed our full complement of oars, although we -put the sick men on shore. Encamped on the north side. About eleven at -night a tremendous thunderstorm arose, and it continued to blow and -rain, with thunder and lightning, until day. Distance 15 miles.[I-9] - -_July 19th._ In consequence of the rain we did not put off until past -nine o'clock; my sick men marched. I had some reason to suspect that -one of them [Kennerman[I-10]] intended never joining us again. At -dinner time the sick man of my own boat came on board; I then went on -board the other, and we continued to run races all day. Although this -boat had hitherto kept behind, yet I arrived at the encamping ground -with her nearly half an hour before the other. The current not -generally so strong as below. Distance 14 miles.[I-11] - -_Sunday, July 20th._ Embarked about sunrise. Wishing to ascertain the -temperature of the water, I discovered my large thermometer to be -missing, which probably had fallen into the river. Passed one -settlement on the north side, and, after turning the point to the -south, saw two more houses on the south side. We encamped [on the -south] in a long reach which bore north and west. The absentees had -not yet joined us. Distance 15 miles.[I-12] - -_July 21st._ It commenced raining near day, and continued until four -o'clock in the afternoon; the rain was immensely heavy, with thunder -and lightning remarkably severe. This obliged me to lie by; for, if we -proceeded with our boats, it necessarily exposed our baggage much more -than when at rest, as the tarpaulin could then cover all. We set sail -at a quarter past four o'clock, and arrived at the village of La -Charette at a little after the dusk of the evening. Here we found -Lieutenant Wilkinson and Dr. Robinson with the Indians; also, Baroney -[Vasquez[I-13]], our interpreter, with letters from the general and -our friends. The weather still continued cloudy, with rain. We were -received in the house of Mr. Chartron, and every accommodation in his -power was offered us. Distance six miles.[I-14] - -_July 22d._ We arranged our boats, dried our lading, and wrote -letters for Belle Fontaine. - -_July 23d._ I dispatched an express to the general, with -advertisements relative to Kennerman, the soldier who had -deserted.[I-15] We embarked after breakfast, and made good progress. -Lieutenant Wilkinson steered one boat and I the other, in order to -detach all the men on shore, with the Indians, that we could spare. We -crossed to the south side, a little below Shepherd river. Dr. Robinson -killed a deer, which was the first killed by the party. Distance 13 -miles.[I-16] - -_July 24th._ We embarked at half past six o'clock. Very foggy. The -Indians accompanied by only three of my people. Lieutenant Wilkinson -being a little indisposed, I was obliged to let Baroney steer his -boat. We made an excellent day's journey, and encamped [on the south] -five miles from [below] the Gasconade river. Killed three deer, one -bear, and three turkeys. But three or four of the Indians arrived; the -others encamped a small distance below. Distance 18 miles.[I-17] - -_July 25th._ We embarked at half past six o'clock, and arrived at the -entrance of the Gasconade river at half past eight o'clock, at which -place I determined to remain the day, as my Indians and foot people -were yet in the rear, and they had complained to me of being without -shoes, leggings, etc. Distance five miles.[I-18] - -One of our Pawnees did not arrive until late; the other had -communicated his suspicions to me that the Oto, who was in company, -had killed him: he acknowledged that he proposed to him to take out -their baggage and return to St. Louis. The real occasion of his -absence, however, was his having followed a large fresh trace up the -Gasconade a considerable distance; but finding it led from the -Missouri, he examined it and discovered horses to have been on it; he -then left it, joined ours, and came in. This being generally the route -taken by the Potowatamies, when they go to war against the Osage, it -occasioned some alarm. Every morning we were awakened by the mourning -of the savages, who commenced crying about daylight, and continued -for the space of an hour. I made inquiry of my interpreter with -respect to this, who informed me that this was a custom not only with -those who had recently lost their relatives, but also with others who -recalled to mind the loss of some friend, dead long since, and joined -the other mourners purely from sympathy. They appeared extremely -affected; tears ran down their cheeks, and they sobbed bitterly; but -in a moment they dry their cheeks and cease their cries. Their songs -of grief generally run thus: "My dear father exists no longer; have -pity on me, O Great Spirit! you see I cry forever; dry my tears and -give me comfort." The warriors' songs are thus: "Our enemies have -slain my father (or mother); he is lost to me and his family; I pray -to you, O Master of Life! to preserve me until I avenge his death, and -then do with me as thou pleaseth." - -_July 26th._ We commenced at five o'clock to ferry the Indians over -the Gasconade, and left the entrance of this river at half past six -o'clock in the afternoon. Met five Frenchmen, who informed us that -they had just left the Osage river, and that it was so low they could -not ascend it with their canoe. We wrote letters and sent them back by -them.[I-19] Dr. Robinson, Baroney, Sparks, and all the Indians -encamped about one league above us. Killed one bear, two deer, one -otter, three turkeys, and one raccoon. Distance 15 miles.[I-20] - -_Sunday, July 27th._ We embarked at half past five o'clock, and -arrived at the Indians' camp at seven o'clock. They had been alarmed -the day before, and in the evening sent men back in the trace, and -some of the chiefs sat up all night. Breakfasted with them. About half -past three o'clock encamped in sight of the Osage river. There being -every appearance of rain, we halted thus early in order to give the -Indians time to prepare temporary camps, and to secure our baggage. I -went out to hunt, and firing at a deer, near two of the Indians who -were in the woods, they knew the difference of the report of my rifle -from their guns, were alarmed, and immediately retired to camp. -Distance 13 miles.[I-21] - -_July 28th._ Embarked at half past five o'clock, and at half past ten -arrived at the Osage[I-22] river, where we stopped, discharged our -guns, bathed, etc. We then proceeded on about six miles, where we -waited for and crossed the Indians to the west shore; we then -proceeded on to the first island, and encamped on the west side, Sans -Oreille and only four or five young men coming up, the rest encamping -some distance behind. Killed one deer and one turkey. Distance 19 -miles. - -_July 29th._ All the [rest of the] Indians arrived very early. Big -Soldier, whom I had appointed the officer to regulate the march, was -much displeased that Sans Oreille and the others had left him, and -said for that reason he would not suffer any woman to go in the boat -and by that means separate the party; but in truth it was from -jealousy of the men whose women went in the boats. He began by -flogging one of the young men and was about to strike Sans Oreille's -wife, but was stopped by him and told that he knew he had done wrong, -but that the women were innocent. We then crossed them and embarked at -half past eight o'clock. About twelve o'clock we found the Indians -rafting the river, when the first chief of the Little Osage, called -Tuttasuggy, or Wind, told me that the man whom Big Soldier struck had -not yet arrived with his wife, "but that he would throw them away." As -I knew he was extremely mortified at the dissensions which appeared to -reign amongst them, I told him by no means [to do so]; that one of my -boats should wait for the woman and her child, but that the man might -go to the devil, as a punishment for his insubordination. - -I then left Baroney with one boat, and proceeded with the other. We -were called ashore by three young Indians, who had killed some deer; -and, on putting them on board, gave them about one or two gills of -whisky, which intoxicated all of them. It commenced raining about one -o'clock, and continued incessantly for three hours, which obliged us -to stop and encamp. One of our men, Miller, lost himself, and did not -arrive until after dark. Killed five deer, one turkey, and one -raccoon. Distance 14 miles.[I-23] - -_July 30th._ After the fog dispersed I left Lieutenant Wilkinson with -the party to dry the baggage, and went with Dr. Robinson and Bradley. -About two o'clock we returned, set sail, and having passed the first -rapid about three miles, encamped on the eastern shore. Killed three -deer. Distance five miles.[I-24] - -_July 31st._ We embarked early, and passed several rapids pretty well. -Dined with the Indians. Two of them left us in the morning for the -village, and they all had an idea of doing the same, but finally -concluded otherwise. One of the Osages, who had left the party for the -village, returned and reported that he had seen and heard strange -Indians in the woods. This we considered as merely a pretext to come -back. I this day lost my dog, and the misfortune was the greater, as -we had no other dog which would bring anything out of the water. This -was the dog Fisher had presented to me at Prairie des Chiens. Killed -three deer and one turkey. Distance 18 miles.[I-25] - -_Aug. 1st._ It having rained all night, the river appeared to have -risen about six inches. We spread out our baggage to dry, but it -continuing to rain at intervals all day, the things were wetter at -sundown than in the morning. We rolled them up and left them on the -beach. We sent out two hunters in the morning, one of whom killed -three deer; all the Indians killed three more. - -_Aug. 2d._ The weather cleared up. The lading being spread out to dry, -Dr. Robinson, myself, Bradley, Sparks, and Brown went out to hunt. We -killed four deer, the Indians two. Having reloaded the boats, we -embarked at five o'clock, and came about two miles. The river rose, in -the last 24 hours, four inches. - -_Sunday, Aug. 3d._ Embarked early, and wishing to save the fresh [take -advantage of the rise in the river], I pushed hard all day. Sparks was -lost, and did not arrive until night. We encamped about 25 paces from -the river, on a sand-bar. Near day I heard the sentry observe that the -boats had better be brought in; I got up and found the water within a -rod of our tent, and before we could get all our things out it had -reached the tent. Killed nine deer, one wildcat, one goose, and one -turkey. Distance 18 miles.[I-26] - -_Aug. 4th._ We embarked early and continued on for some time, not -being able to find a suitable place to dry our things, but at length -stopped on the east shore. Here we had to ferry the Indians over a -small channel which we did not before observe; all of them, however, -not arriving, we put off and continued our route. Finding our progress -much impeded by our mast, I unshipped it and stripped it of its iron, -and, after Lieutenant Wilkinson had carved our names on it, set it -adrift, followed by the yards. This mast had been cut and made at [our -wintering post on] Pine creek, Upper Mississippi. After proceeding -some miles, we found the Indians on the west shore, they having rafted -the river. We stopped for them to cook, after which we proceeded. The -navigation had become very difficult from the rapidity of the current, -occasioned by the rise of the water, which rose one foot in an hour. -Killed two deer. Rainy. Distance 10 miles.[I-27] - -_Aug. 5th._ We lay by this day, in order to give the Indians an -opportunity to dry their baggage. Dr. Robinson and myself, accompanied -by Mr. Henry, went out to hunt; we lost the latter about two miles -from camp. After hunting some time on the west shore, we concluded to -raft the river, which we effected with difficulty and danger, and -hunted for some time, but without success. We then returned to the -party and found that Mr. Henry, who had been lost, had arrived one -hour before us; he had met one of the soldiers, who brought him in. - -To-day in our tour I passed over a remarkably large rattlesnake, as he -lay curled up, and trod so near him as to touch him with my foot, he -drawing himself up to make room for my heel. Dr. Robinson, who -followed me, was on the point of treading on him, but by a spring -avoided it. I then turned round and touched him with my ramrod, but he -showed no disposition to bite, and appeared quite peaceable. The -gratitude which I felt toward him for not having bitten me induced me -to save his life. Killed four deer. River rises 13 inches. Rain -continues. - -_Aug. 6th._ We embarked at half past eight o'clock, it having cleared -off and had the appearance of a fine day. Passed [Little] Gravel river -[of Pike, now Big Gravois creek] on the west.[I-28] About three miles -above this river the Indians left us and informed me that, by keeping -a little to the south and west, they would make in 15 miles what would -be at least 35 miles for us. Dr. Robinson, Mr. Henry, and Sergeant -Ballenger accompanied them. Killed two deer. Distance 13 miles. - -_Aug. 7th._ Not being detained by the Indians, we are for once enabled -to embark at a quarter past five o'clock. The river having fallen -since yesterday morning about four feet, we wish to improve every -moment of time previous to its entire fall. We proceeded extremely -well, passed the Saline [read Great Gravel[I-29]] river [of Pike, now -Grand Auglaise creek] on the east, and encamped opposite La Belle -Roche on the west shore. This day we passed many beautiful cliffs on -both sides of the river; saw a bear and wolf swimming the river. I -employed myself part of the day in translating into French a talk of -General Wilkinson's to Cheveux Blanche.[I-30] Distance 21 miles. - -_Aug. 8th._ We embarked at 20 minutes past five o'clock. Found the -river had fallen about two feet during the night. At the confluence of -the Youngar[I-31] with the Osage river we breakfasted. Encamped at -night on a bar. Distance 21 miles. - -_Aug. 9th._ We embarked at five o'clock, and at half past six met the -Indians and our gentlemen. They had met with nothing extraordinary. -They had killed in their excursion seven deer and three bear. We -proceeded to an old wintering ground, where there were eight houses, -occupied last winter by [Blank], who had not been able to proceed any -higher for want of water. Passed the Old Man's Rapids, below which, on -the west shore, are some beautiful cliffs. Dined with the Indians, -after which we passed Upper Gravel river on the west, and Pottoe [qu. -Poteau?] river on the east. Sparks went out to hunt, and did not -arrive at our encampment, nor did the Indians. Distance 25 -miles.[I-32] - -_Sunday, Aug. 10th._ Embarked a quarter past five o'clock, when the -sun shone out very clearly; but in 15 minutes it began to rain, and -continued to rain very hard until one o'clock. Passed the Indians, who -were encamped on the west shore, about half a mile, and halted for -them. They all forded the river but Sans Oreille, who brought his wife -up to the boats, and informed me that Sparks had encamped with them, -but left them early to return in search of us. We proceeded after -breakfast. Sparks arrived just at the moment we were embarking. The -Indians traversing the country on the east had sent Sparks with Sans -Oreille. About two o'clock split a plank in the bottom of the batteau. -Unloaded and turned her up, repaired the breach, and continued on the -route. By four o'clock found the Indians behind a large island; we -made no stop, and they followed us. We encamped together on a bar, -where we proposed halting to dry our corn, etc., on Monday. Killed -four deer. Distance 181/2 miles.[I-33] - -_Aug. 11th._ We continued here to dry our corn and baggage. This -morning we had a match at shooting. The prize offered to the -successful person was a jacket and a twist of tobacco, which I myself -was so fortunate as to win; I made the articles, however, a present to -the young fellow who waited on me. After this, taking Huddleston with -me, I went out to hunt; after traveling about 12 miles we arrived at -the river, almost exhausted with thirst. I here indulged myself by -drinking plentifully of the water, and was rendered so extremely -unwell by it that I was scarcely capable of pursuing my route to the -camp. On arriving opposite it, I swam the river, from which I -experienced considerable relief. The party informed me they had found -the heat very oppressive, and the mercury, at sundown, was at 25 deg. -Reaumer [Reaumur]. This day, for the first time, I saw trout west of -the Allegheny mountains. Reloaded our boats and finished two new oars, -which were requisite. - -_Aug. 12th._ Previously to our embarkation, which took place at half -past five o'clock, I was obliged to convince my red brethren that, if -I protected them, I would not suffer them to plunder my men with -impunity; for the chief had got one of my lads' tin cups attached to -his baggage, and, notwithstanding it was marked with the initials of -the soldier's name, he refused to give it up. On which I requested the -interpreter to tell him, "that I had no idea that he had purloined the -cup, but supposed some other person had attached it to his baggage; -but that, knowing it to be my soldier's, I requested him to deliver it -up, or I should be obliged to take other measures to obtain it." This -had the desired effect; for I certainly should have put my threats -into execution, from this principle, formed from my experience during -my intercourse with Indians, that if you have justice on your side, -and do not enforce it, they universally despise you. When we stopped -for dinner, one of my men took his gun and went out; not having -returned when we were ready to re-embark, I left him. Passed the -Indians twice when they were crossing the river. Passed some very -beautiful cliffs on the W. [N. or right] shore; also Vermillion -[Little Tabeau] and Grand rivers, the latter of which is a large -stream, and encamped at the [first bend above it, on the E. or -left-hand bank of the Osage[I-34]]. Distance 24 miles. - -Immediately after our encampment a thunder-storm came on, which blew -overboard my flag-staff and a number of articles of my clothing, which -were on top of the cabin, and sunk them immediately. Being much -fatigued and the bank difficult of ascent, lay down in the cabin -without supper and slept all night. It continued to rain. The man -[Sparks] I left on shore arrived on the opposite bank in the night, -having killed two deer, but was obliged to leave the largest behind. -Finding he was not to be sent for, he concealed his gun and deer, and -swam the river. - -_Aug. 13th._ It continued to rain. In the morning sent a boat over for -Sparks' gun and deer. Embarked at half past nine o'clock. Stopped to -dine at two o'clock. During the time we halted, the river rose over -the flat bar on which we were; this, if we had no other proof, would -convince us we were near the head of the river, as the rain must have -reached it. We made almost a perfect circle, so that I do not believe -we were to-night three miles from where we encamped last night. This -day, for the first time, we have prairie hills. Distance 13 -miles.[I-35] - -_Aug. 14th._ Embarked at half past five o'clock. Passed the Park, -which is 10 miles around, and not more than three-quarters of a mile -across, bearing from S. 5 deg. E. to due N. At its head we breakfasted, -and just as we were about to put off we saw and brought-to a canoe -manned with three engagees of Mr. [Chouteau], who informed us that -the Little Osage had marched a war-party against the Kans, and the -Grand Osage a party against our citizens on the Arkansaw river. Wrote -by them to the general[I-36] and all friends. Gave the poor fellows -some whisky and eight quarts of corn, they having had only two turkeys -for four days. We left them and proceeded, passing on our east some of -the largest cedars I ever saw. Came on very well in the afternoon, and -encamped[I-37] on an island above Turkey island. Distance 28 miles. - -_Aug. 15th._ We embarked at five o'clock, and at eight o'clock met the -Indians and the gentlemen[I-38] who accompanied them. Found all well. -They had been joined by their friends and relatives from the village, -with horses to transport their baggage. Lieutenant Wilkinson informed -me that their meeting was very tender and affectionate--"wives -throwing themselves into the arms of their husbands, parents embracing -their children, and children their parents, brothers and sisters -meeting, one from captivity, the other from the towns; they at the -same time returning thanks to the Good God for having brought them -once more together"--in short, the _tout ensemble_ was such as to make -polished society blush, when compared with those savages, in whom the -passions of the mind, whether joy, grief, fear, anger, or revenge, -have their full scope. Why can we not correct the baneful passions, -without weakening the good? Sans Oreille made them a speech, in which -he remarked: "Osage, you now see your wives, your brothers, your -daughters, your sons, redeemed from captivity. Who did this? Was it -the Spaniards? No. The French? No. Had either of those people been -governors of the country, your relatives might have rotted in -captivity, and you never would have seen them; but the Americans -stretched forth their hands, and they are returned to you! What can -you do in return for all this goodness? Nothing; all your lives would -not suffice to repay their goodness." This man had children in -captivity, not one of whom we were able to obtain for him. - -The chief then requested that Lieutenant Wilkinson and Dr. Robinson -might be permitted to accompany them by land, to which I consented. -Wrote a letter to Cheveux Blanche, by Lieutenant Wilkinson. When we -parted, after delivering the Indians their baggage, Sans Oreille put -an Indian on board to hunt, or obey any other commands I might have -for him. We stopped at eleven o'clock to dry our baggage. Found our -biscuit and crackers almost all ruined. Put off at half past four -o'clock, and encamped at three-quarters past five o'clock. Distance -151/2 miles.[I-39] - -_Aug. 16th._ We embarked at five o'clock and came on extremely well -in the barge to an evacuated French hunting-camp 12 miles to -breakfast, the batteaux coming up late. We exchanged hands. About -twelve o'clock passed the Grand Fork [confluence of Sac river with the -Osage, above Osceola], which is equal in size to the one on which we -pursued our route. Waited to dine at the rocks called the Swallow's -Nest, on the W. shore, above the forks. The batteaux having gained -nearly half an hour, the crews are convinced that it is not the boat, -but men who make the difference; each take their own boat, after which -we proceeded very well, the water being good and men in spirits. Saw -an elk on the shore; also met an old man alone hunting, from whom we -obtained no information of consequence. Encamped on the W. shore of -Mine [or Mire] river. Distance 37 miles.[I-40] - -We to-day passed the place where the chief called Belle Oiseau, and -others, were killed. The Belle Oiseau was killed by the Sacs in the -year 1804, in a boat of Manuel de Liza, when on his way down to St. -Louis, in order to join the first deputation of his nation who were -forwarded to the seat of government by Governor Lewis. A particular -relation of the event, no doubt, has been given by that gentleman. -This chief had a son who accompanied me to the Pawnee nation, and -whose honorable deportment, attachment to our government, amiableness -of disposition, and the respect and esteem in which he was held by his -compeers, entitle him to the attention of our agents to his nation. - -_Sunday, Aug. 17th._ We embarked at five o'clock and came 12 miles to -breakfast. At four o'clock arrived at 10 French houses on the E. -shore, where was then residing a Sac, who was married to an Osage -femme and spoke French only. We afterward passed the position where -Mr. [Pierre] Chouteau formerly had his fort [Fort Carondelet[I-41]], -not a vestige of which was remaining, the spot being only marked by -the superior growth of vegetation. Here the river-bank is one solid -bed of stone-coal, just below which is a very shoal and rapid ripple -[Kaw rapids, where was Collen or Colly ford]; whence to the village of -the Grand Osage is nine miles across a large prairie. We came about -two miles above [Chouteau's], and encamped on the W. [right-hand] -shore. This day the river has been generally bounded by prairies on -both sides. Distance 411/2 miles. - -_Aug. 18th._ We put off at half past five o'clock. Stopped at nine -o'clock to breakfast. Passed the second fork[I-42] of the river at -twelve o'clock, the right-hand fork bearing N., about 30 yards wide; -the left, the one which we pursued, N. 60 deg. W., and not more than 50 or -60 feet in width, very full of old trees, etc., but with plenty of -water. Observed the road where the chiefs and Lieutenant Wilkinson -crossed. We proceeded until one o'clock, when we were halted by a -large drift quite across the river. Dispatched Baroney to the village -of the Grand Osage, to procure horses to take our baggage nearer to -the towns, and unloaded our boats. In about two hours Lieutenant -Wilkinson, with Tuttasuggy, arrived at our camp, the former of whom -presented me an express from the general[I-43] and letters from my -friends. The chiefs remained at our camp all night. I was attacked by -a violent headache. It commenced raining, and continued with great -force until day. Distance 191/4 miles. - -_Aug. 19th._ We commenced very early to arrange our baggage, but had -not finished at one o'clock, when the chief of the Grand Osage, and 40 -or 50 men of his village, arrived with horses. We loaded and took our -departure for the place where Manuel de Liza had his establishment, -[near Fort Carondelet], at which we arrived about four o'clock, and -commenced pitching our encampment near the edge of the prairie, when I -was informed that three men had arrived from St. Louis sent by Manuel -de Liza. I dispatched Lieutenant Wilkinson to the village with -Baroney, who brought to camp the man [Jean Baptiste Duchouquette] who -had charge of the others from St. Louis; he having no passport, I -detained him until further consideration. Our reception by the Osage -was flattering, and particularly by White Hair and our fellow-travelers. -This evening there arrived in the village of the Grand Osage an -express from the Arkansaw, who brought the news that a boat, ascending -that river, had been fired on, had two white men killed and two -wounded, and that the brother-in-law of Cheveux Blanche, who happened -to be on board, was also killed. This put the whole village in -mourning. - -_Aug. 20th._ About twelve o'clock I dispatched Baroney for the chiefs -of the Grand [Osage] village, in order to give the general's parole to -Cheveux Blanche; also, a young man to the village of the Little Osage. -Cheveux Blanche and his people arrived about three o'clock, and after -waiting some time for Wind and his people, I just informed the chiefs -that I had merely assembled them to deliver the parole of the general -and present the marks of distinction intended for Cheveux Blanche and -his son--hanging a grand medal round the neck of the latter. The -packets committed to my charge for the relations of the deceased -Osages were then delivered to them, the widow making the distribution. -It must be remarked that I had merely requested Cheveux Blanche to -come with his son, and receive the general's message; but instead of -coming with a few chiefs, he was accompanied by 186 men, to all of -whom we were obliged to give something to drink. When the council was -over we mounted our horses, rode to the village, and halted at the -quarters of the chief, where we were regaled with boiled pumpkins; -then we went to two different houses, and were invited to many others, -but declined, promising that I would pay them a visit previous to my -departure, and spend the whole day. We then returned to camp. After -inquiring of White Hair if the men of Manuel de Liza had any -ostensible object in view, he informed me that they had only said to -him that they expected Manuel would be up to trade in the autumn. I -concluded to take the deposition of Babtiste Larme as to the manner in -which he was employed by Manuel de Liza, forward the same to Dr. -Brown[I-44] and the attorney-general of Louisiana, and permit the men -to return to St. Louis, as it was impossible for me to detach a party -with them as prisoners. - -_Aug. 21st._ In the morning White Hair paid us a visit, and brought us -a present of corn, meat, and grease; we invited him, his son, and -son-in-law to breakfast with us, and gave his companions something to -eat. I then wrote a number of letters to send by express, and inclosed -the deposition of Larme. In the afternoon we rode to the village of -the Little Osage, and were received by our fellow-travelers with true -hospitality. Returned in the evening, when a tremendous storm of rain, -thunder, and lightning commenced, and continued with extraordinary -violence until half past nine o'clock. It was with great difficulty we -were enabled to keep our tents from blowing down. The place prepared -for an observatory was carried away. - -_Aug. 22d._ Preparing in the morning for the council, and committing -to paper the heads of the subject on which I intended to speak. The -chiefs of the Little Osage arrived about one o'clock, also the -interpreter of the Grand Osage, who pretended to say that the Grand -Osage had expected us at their village with the Little Osage. Cheveux -Blanche arrived with his chiefs. The ceremony of the council being -arranged, I delivered them the general's parole, forwarded by express. -My reason for not delivering it until this time was in order to have -the two villages together, as it was equally interesting to both. -After this I explained at large the will, wishes, and advice of their -Great Father, and the mode which I conceived most applicable to carry -them into effect. Cheveux Blanche replied in a few words, and promised -to give me a full reply to-morrow. Wind replied to the same amount; -after which Cheveux Blanche addressed himself to Wind as follows: "I -am shocked at your conduct, Tuttasuggy--you who have lately come from -the States, and should have been wise; but you led the redeemed -captives, with an officer of the United States, to your village, -instead of bringing them through my town in the first instance." To -this Wind made no reply, but left his seat shortly after, under -pretense of giving some orders to his young men. I conceived this -reprimand intended barely to show us the superiority of the one and -inferiority of the other; it originated, in my opinion, from an -altercation of Lieutenant Wilkinson and Cheveux Blanche, in which -allusions were made by the former to the friendly conduct of the -Little Chief, alias Wind, when compared to that of the latter. I must -here observe that when the chiefs and prisoners left me, accompanied -by Lieutenant Wilkinson, I did not know the geographical situation of -the two villages,[I-45] but conceived that, in going to the Little -Village, they would pass by the Grand Village, and of course that -Lieutenant Wilkinson and the chief would arrange the affair properly. - -_Aug. 23d._ I expected to have received from the chiefs their answers -to my demands; but received an express from both villages, informing -me that they wished to put them off until to-morrow. I then adjusted -my instruments. Took equal altitudes and a meridional altitude of the -sun; but, owing to flying clouds, missed the immersions of Jupiter's -satellites. - -_Sunday, Aug. 24th._ Was nearly half the day in adjusting the line of -collimation in the telescopic sights of my theodolite. It began to -cloud before evening, and although the sky was not entirely covered, I -was so unfortunate as to miss the time of an immersion, and, although -clear in the intermediate period, an emersion also. I was informed by -Baroney that the Little Village had made up 11 horses for us. In the -evening, however, the interpreter, accompanied by the son-in-law and -son of Cheveux Blanche, came to camp, and informed me that there were -no horses to be got in the village of the Big Osage. - -The son-in-law spoke as follows: "I am come to give you the news of -our village, which is unfortunate for us, our chief having assembled -his young men and warriors and proposed to them to furnish horses, -etc. They have generally refused him; but I, who am the principal man -after Cheveux Blanche, will accompany you." The son: "Our young men -and warriors will not take pity on my father, nor on me, nor on you, -and have refused to comply with your request; but I will accompany you -with two horses to carry provision for your voyage." The interpreter: -"The Cheveux Blanche was ashamed to bring you this answer, but will -again assemble his village and to-morrow come and give you the -answer." I replied: "That I had made the demand without explanation, -merely to let the Osage act agreeably to their inclination, in order -that we might see what disposition they would exhibit toward us; but -why do I ask of their chiefs to follow me to the Pawnees? Is it for -our good, or their own? Is it not to make peace with the Kans? To put -their wives and children out of danger? As to their horses which they -may furnish us with, I will pay them for their hire; but it is -uncertain whether I can pay them here, or give them an order on the -Superintendent of Indian Affairs at St. Louis; but this I do not now -wish them to be made acquainted with." - -_Aug. 25th._ In the morning we were visited by Cheveux Blanche and -three or four of his chiefs, who were pleased to accord to my demands. -He found much difficulty in informing me that in all his village he -could only raise four horses, but that we should be accompanied by his -son and son-in-law. I then expressed to him the difference of our -expectations from the reality. He remained until after twelve o'clock, -when I went to the Little Osage village, and was received with great -friendship by the chief. Remained all night at the house of -Tuttasuggy. Took the census.[I-46] - -_Aug. 26th._ Rose early and found my friends in council, which was -merely relative to our horses. The chief then declared their -determination to me, and that he himself gave me one horse, and lent -me eight more to carry our baggage to the Pawnees. Sold the old -batteau for $100 in merchandise, which I conceived infinitely -preferable to leaving her to the uncertain safeguard of the Indians. -About this time we received the news that the party of Potowatomies -were discovered to be near the towns. I gave them the best advice I -was capable of giving, and then returned to our camp. - -_Aug. 27th._ Spent in arranging our baggage for the horses. Received -four horses from the Little Village and two from the Big Village. In -the evening Lieutenant Wilkinson rode to the Grand Village. I observed -two immersions of Jupiter's satellites. - -_Aug. 28th._ Writing to the secretary at war and the general, and -making arrangements for our departure. Visited by Wind and Sans -Oreille. - -_Aug. 29th._ Forenoon writing letters. In the afternoon Dr. Robinson -and myself went to the Grand Village, at which we saw the great -medicine dance. Remained at the village all night. - -_Aug. 30th._ Returned to the camp after settling all my affairs at the -town. Sealed up our dispatches and sent off the general's -express.[I-47] In the afternoon we were visited by the principal men -of the Little Village and the chief, to whom I presented a flag, and -made the donations which I conceived requisite to the different -Indians, on account of horses, etc. - -_Sunday, Aug. 31st._ Arranging our packs and loading our horses, in -order to fit our loads, as we expected to march on the morrow. Up late -writing letters. - -_Sept. 1st._ Struck our tents early in the morning, and commenced -loading our horses. We now discovered that an Indian had stolen a -large black horse which Cheveux Blanche had presented to Lieutenant -Wilkinson. I mounted a horse to pursue him; but the interpreter sent -to town, and the chief's wife sent another in its place. We left the -place about twelve o'clock with 15 loaded horses,[I-48] our party -consisting of two lieutenants, one doctor, two sergeants, one -corporal, 15 privates, two interpreters, three Pawnees, and four -chiefs of the Grand Osage, amounting in all to 30 warriors and one -woman. We crossed the Grand Osage fork and a prairie N. 80 deg. W. five -miles to the fork of the Little Osage.[I-49] Joined by Sans Oreille -and seven Little Osage, all of whom I equipped for the march. Distance -eight miles. - -_Sept. 2d._ Marched at six o'clock. Halted at ten o'clock and two -o'clock on the side of the creek [Little Osage river], our route -having been all the time on its borders. Whilst there I was informed -by a young Indian that Mr. C. Chouteau had arrived at the towns. I -conceived it proper for me to return, which I did, accompanied by -Baroney, first to the Little Village; whence we were accompanied by -Wind to the Big Village, where we remained all night at the lodge of -Cheveux Blanche. Mr. Chouteau gave us all the news, after which I -scrawled a letter to the general and my friends. - -_Sept. 3d._ Rose early, and went to the Little Village to breakfast. -After giving my letters to Mr. Henry, and arranging my affairs, we -proceeded, and overtook our party at two o'clock. They had left their -first camp about four miles. Our horses being much fatigued, we -concluded to remain all night. Sent out our red and white hunters, all -of whom only killed two turkeys. Distance four miles.[I-50] - -_Sept. 4th._ When about to march in the morning one of our horses was -missing; we left Sans Oreille, with the two Pawnees, to search for -him, and proceeded till about nine o'clock; stopped until twelve -o'clock, and then marched. In about half an hour I was overtaken and -informed that Sans Oreille had not been able to find our horse; on -which we encamped, and sent two horses back for the load. One of the -Indians, being jealous of his wife, sent her back to the village. -After making the necessary notes, Dr. Robinson and myself took our -horses and followed the course of a little stream until we arrived at -the Grand[I-51] river, which was distant about six miles. We here -found a most delightful basin of water, of 25 paces' diameter and -about 100 in circumference, in which we bathed; found it deep and -delightfully pleasant. Nature scarcely ever formed a more beautiful -place for a farm. We returned to camp about dusk, when I was informed -that some of the Indians had been dreaming and wished to return. -Killed one deer, one turkey, one raccoon. Distance [made by the main -party] 13 miles. - -_Sept. 5th._ In the morning our Little Osage all came to a -determination to return, and, much to my surprise, Sans Oreille among -the rest. I had given an order on the chiefs for the lost horse to be -delivered to Sans Oreille's wife, previously to my knowing that he was -going back; but took from him his gun, and the guns from all the -others also. - -In about five miles we struck a beautiful hill, which bears south on -the prairie; its elevation I suppose to be 100 feet. From its summit -the view is sublime to the east and southeast. We waited on this hill -to breakfast, and had to send two miles for water. Killed a deer on -the rise, which was soon roasting before the fire. Here another Indian -wished to return and take his horse with him; which, as we had so few, -I could not allow, for he had already received a gun for the use of -his horse. I told him he might return, but his horse would go to the -Pawnees. - -We marched, leaving the Osage trace, which we had hitherto followed, -and crossed the hills to a creek that was almost dry. Descended it to -the main [Little Osage] river, where we dined [vicinity of Harding]. -The discontented Indian came up, and put on an air of satisfaction and -content. - -We again marched about six miles further, and encamped at the head of -a small creek, about half a mile from the water. Distance 19 miles -[approaching Xenia, Bourbon Co., Kas.[I-52]]. - -_Sept. 6th._ We marched at half past six o'clock, and arrived at a -large fork of the Little Osage river, where we breakfasted [vicinity -of Xenia]. In the holes of the creek we discovered many fish, which, -from the stripes on their bellies and their spots, I supposed to be -trout and bass; they were 12 inches long. This brought to mind the -necessity of a net, which would have frequently afforded subsistence -to the whole party. We halted at one o'clock and remained until four -o'clock. Being told that we could not arrive at any water, we here -filled our vessels. At five o'clock arrived at the dividing ridge, -between the waters of the Osage and the Arkansaw, alias White -river,[I-53] the dry branches of which interlock within 20 yards of -each other. The prospect from the dividing ridge to the east and -southeast is sublime. The prairie rising and falling in regular -swells, as far as the sight can extend, produces a very beautiful -appearance. We left our course, and struck down to the southwest on a -small [tributary of Elm] creek, or rather a puddle of water. Killed -one deer. Distance 20 miles. - -_Sunday, Sept. 7th._ We left this at half past six o'clock, before -which we had a difficulty with the son of the chief, which was -accommodated. At nine o'clock we came on a large fork [of Elm creek] -and stopped for breakfast. Proceeded on and encamped on a fine stream -[Deer creek?], where we swam our horses and bathed ourselves. Killed -four deer. Distance 15 miles.[I-54] - -_Sept. 8th._ Marched early, and arrived at a grand fork of the White -river.[I-55] The Indians were all discontented; we had taken the wrong -ford; but, as they were dispersed through the woods, we could not be -governed by their movements. Previously to our leaving the camp, the -son of Cheveux Blanche proposed returning, and offered no other reason -than that he felt too lazy to perform the route. The reason I offered -to prevent his going was ineffectual, and he departed with his hunter, -who deprived us of one horse. His return left us without any chief or -man of consideration, except the son of Belle Oiseau, who was but a -lad. The former appeared to be a discontented young fellow, filled -with self-pride; he certainly should have considered it as an honor to -be sent on so respectable an embassy as he was. Another Indian, who -owned one of our horses, wished to return with him, which was -positively refused him; but fearing he might steal him, I contented -him with a present. We marched, and made the second branch [North Big -creek], crossing one prairie 12 miles, in which we suffered much with -drought. Distance 22 miles.[I-56] - -_Sept. 9th._ Marched at seven o'clock, and struck a large [Eagle] -creek at 11 miles' distance. On holding a council, it was determined -to ascend this creek to the highest point of water, and strike across -to a large river of the Arkansaw [watershed]. We ascended 41/2 miles, -and encamped. Killed one cabrie [antelope, _Antilocapra americana_], -two deer, and two turkeys. Distance 12 miles.[I-57] - -_Sept. 10th._ Marched early. Struck and passed the divide between the -Grand [Neosho] river and the Verdegris [or Vermilion] river. Stopped -to breakfast on a small stream of the latter; after which we marched -and encamped on the fourth small stream [tributary of Vermilion -river]. Killed one elk, one deer. Distance 21 miles.[I-58] - -_Sept. 11th._ Passed four branches and over high hilly prairies. -Encamped at night on a large branch of Grand river. Killed one cabrie, -one deer. Distance 17 miles.[I-59] - -_Sept. 12th._ Commenced our march at seven o'clock. Passed very ruff -[rough] flint hills. My feet blistered and very sore. I stood on a -hill, and in one view below me saw buffalo, elk, deer, cabrie, and -panthers. Encamped on the main [Cottonwood] branch of Grand [Neosho] -river, which had very steep banks and was deep. Dr. Robinson, Bradley, -and Baroney arrived after dusk, having killed three buffalo, which, -with one I killed, and two by the Indians, made six; the Indians -alleging it was the Kans' hunting ground, therefore they would destroy -all the game they possibly could. Distance 18 miles.[I-60] - -_Sept. 13th._ Late in marching, it having every appearance of rain. -Halted to dine on a branch of Grand river. Marched again at half past -two o'clock, and halted at five, intending to dispatch Dr. Robinson -and one of our Pawnees to the village to-morrow. Killed six buffalo, -one elk, and three deer. Distance nine miles.[I-61] - -_Sunday, Sept. 14th._ The doctor and Frank, a young Pawnee, marched -for the village at daylight; we at half past six o'clock. Halted at -one o'clock. On the march we were continually passing through large -herds of buffalo, elk, and cabrie; and I have no doubt that one hunter -could support 200 men. I prevented the men shooting at the game, not -merely because of the scarcity of ammunition, but, as I conceived, the -laws of morality forbid it also. Encamped at sunset on the main branch -[Cottonwood] of White river, hitherto called Grand river. Killed one -buffalo and one cabrie. Distance 21 miles.[I-62] - -_Sept. 15th._ Marched at seven o'clock; passed a very large Kans -encampment, evacuated, which had been occupied last summer. Proceeded -on to the dividing ridge between the waters of White river and the -Kans [more exactly, from basin of the Cottonwood to that of the Smoky -Hill]. This ridge was covered with a layer of stone, which was -strongly impregnated with iron ore, and on the W. side of said ridge -we found spa springs. Halted at one o'clock, very much against the -inclination of the Osage, who, from the running of the buffalo, -conceived a party of Kans to be near. Killed two buffalo. Distance 18 -miles.[I-63] - -_Sept. 16th._ Marched late, and in about 41/2 miles' distance came to a -very handsome branch of water [Hobbs branch of Gypsum creek], at which -we stopped and remained until after two o'clock, when we marched and -crossed two branches [main Gypsum and Stag creeks]. Encamped on a -third. At the second [Gypsum] creek, a horse was discovered on the -prairie, when Baroney went in pursuit of him on a horse of Lieutenant -Wilkinson, but arrived at our camp without success. Distance 13 -miles.[I-64] - -_Sept. 17th._ Marched early and struck the main S. E. [Smoky Hill] -branch of the Kans river at nine o'clock; it appeared to be 25 or 30 -yards wide, and is navigable in the flood seasons. We passed it six -miles to a small branch to breakfast. Game getting scarce, our -provision began to run low. Marched about two o'clock, and encamped at -sundown on a large branch [Mulberry creek]. Killed one buffalo. -Distance 21 miles.[I-65] - -_Sept. 18th._ Marched at our usual hour, and at twelve o'clock halted -at a large branch [Saline river] of the Kans [Smoky Hill], which was -strongly impregnated with salt. This day we expected the people of the -[Pawnee] village to meet us. We marched again at four o'clock. Our -route being over a continued series of hills and hollows, we were -until eight at night before we arrived at a small dry branch [of -Covert creek]. It was nearly ten o'clock before we found any water. -Commenced raining a little before day. Distance 25 miles.[I-66] - -_Sept. 19th._ It having commenced raining early, we secured our -baggage and pitched our tents. The rain continued without any -intermission the whole day, during which we employed ourselves in -reading the Bible and Pope's Essays, and in pricking on our arms with -India ink some characters, which will frequently bring to mind our -forlorn and dreary situation, as well as the happiest days of our -life. In the rear of our encampment was a hill, on which there was a -large rock, where the Indians kept a continual sentinel, as I imagine -to apprise them of the approach of any party, friends or foes, as well -as to see if they could discover any game on the prairies. - -_Sept. 20th._ It appearing as if we possibly might have a clear day, I -ordered our baggage spread abroad to dry; but it shortly after clouded -up and commenced raining. The Osage sentinel discovered a buffalo on -the prairies; upon which we dispatched a hunter on horseback in -pursuit of him, also some hunters on foot; before night they killed -three buffalo, some of the best of which we brought in and jerked or -dried by the fire. It continued showery until afternoon, when we put -our baggage again in a position to dry, and remained encamped. The -detention of the doctor and our Pawnee ambassador began to be a -serious matter of consideration. - -_Sunday, Sept. 21st._ We marched at eight o'clock, although there was -every appearance of rain, and at eleven o'clock passed a large [Little -Saline river of Pike, now Covert] creek, remarkably salt. Stopped at -one o'clock on a fresh branch of the salt creek. Our interpreter -having killed an elk, we sent out for some meat, which detained us so -late that I concluded it best to encamp where we were, in preference -to running the risk of finding no water. Distance 10 miles. - -Lieutenant Wilkinson was attacked with a severe headache and slight -fever. One of my men had been attacked with a touch of the pleurisy on -the 18th, and was still ill. We were informed by an Osage woman that -two of the Indians were conspiring to desert us in the night and -steal some of our horses, one of whom was her husband. We engaged her -as our spy. Thus were we obliged to keep ourselves on our guard -against our own companions and fellow-travelers--men of a nation -highly favored by the United States, but whom I believe to be a -faithless set of poltrons, incapable of a great and generous action. -Among them, indeed, there may be some exceptions. - -In the evening, finding that the two Indians above mentioned had made -all preparations to depart, I sent for one of them, who owned a horse -and had received a gun and other property for his hire, and told him -"I knew his plans, and that if he was disposed to desert, I should -take care to retain his horse; that as for himself, he might leave me -if he pleased, as I only wanted men with us." He replied "that he was -a man, that he always performed his promises, that he had never said -he would return; but that he would follow me to the Pawnee village, -which he intended to do." He then brought his baggage and put it under -charge of the sentinel, and slept by my fire; but notwithstanding I -had him well watched. - -_Sept. 22d._ We did not march until eight o'clock, owing to the -indisposition of Lieutenant Wilkinson. At eleven waited to dine. Light -mists of rain, with flying clouds. We marched again at three o'clock, -and continued our route 12 miles to the first branch of the Republican -Fork. [?] Met a Pawnee hunter, who informed us that the chief had left -the village the day after the doctor arrived, with 50 or 60 horses and -many people, and had taken his course to the north of our route; -consequently we had missed each other. He likewise informed us that -the Tetaus [misprint for Tetans, and that a mistake for Ietans, _i. e._, -Comanches] had recently killed six Pawnees, the Kans had stolen some -horses, and a party of 300 Spaniards had lately been as far as the -Sabine; but for what purpose was unknown. Distance 11 miles.[I-67] - -_Sept. 23d._ Marched early and passed a large fork of the Kans [_i. e._, -Smoky Hill] river, which I [correctly] suppose to be the one generally -called Solomon's. One of our horses fell into the water and wet his -load. Halted at ten o'clock on a branch of this fork. We marched -at half past one o'clock, and encamped at sundown on a stream [Buffalo -creek] where we had a great difficulty to find water. We were overtaken -by a Pawnee, who encamped with us. He offered his horse for our use. -Distance 21 miles.[I-68] - -_Sept. 24th._ We could not find our horses until late, when we -marched. Before noon met Frank, who had accompanied Dr. Robinson to -the village, and three other Pawnees, who informed us that the chief -and his party had only arrived at the village yesterday, and had -dispatched them out in search of us. Before three o'clock we were -joined by several Pawnees; one of them wore a scarlet coat, with a -small medal of General Washington, and a Spanish medal also. We -encamped at sunset on a middle-sized branch [White Rock creek], and -were joined by several Pawnees in the evening, who brought us some -buffalo meat. Here we saw some mules, horses, bridles, and blankets, -which they obtained of the Spaniards. Few only had breech cloths, most -being wrapped in buffalo robes, otherwise quite naked. Distance 18 -miles.[I-69] - -_Sept. 25th._ We marched at a good hour, and in about eight miles -struck a very large road on which the Spanish troops had returned, and -on which we could yet discover the grass beaten down in the direction -which they went. - -When we arrived within about three miles of the village, we were -requested to remain, as the ceremony of receiving the Osage into the -towns was to be performed here. There was a small circular spot, clear -of grass, before which the Osage sat down. We were a small distance in -advance of the Indians. The Pawnees then advanced within a mile of us, -halted, divided into two troops, and came on each flank at full -charge, making all the gestures and performing the maneuvers of a real -war charge. They then encircled us around, and the chief advanced in -the center and gave us his hand; his name was Caracterish. He was -accompanied by his two sons and a chief by the name of Iskatappe. The -Osage were still seated; but Belle Oiseau then rose, came forward with -a pipe, and presented it to the chief, who took a whiff or two from -it. We then proceeded; the chief, Lieutenant Wilkinson, and myself in -front; my sergeant, on a white horse, next with the colors; then our -horses and baggage, escorted by our men, with the Pawnees on each -side, running races, etc. When we arrived on the hill over the town we -were again halted, and the Osage seated in a row; when each Pawnee who -intended so to do presented them with a horse and gave a pipe to smoke -to the Osage to whom he had made the present. In this manner were -eight horses given. Lieutenant Wilkinson then proceeded with the party -to the [Republican] river above the town, and encamped. I went up to -our camp in the evening, having a young Pawnee with me loaded with -corn for my men. Distance 12 miles.[I-70] As the chief had invited us -to his lodge to eat, we thought it proper for one to go. At the lodge -he gave me many particulars which were interesting to us, relative to -the late visit of the Spaniards. - -I will attempt to give some memoranda of this expedition, which was -the most important ever carried on from the province of New Mexico, -and in fact the only one directed N. E. (except that mentioned by the -Abbe Raynal[I-71] in his History of the Indies) to the Pawnees--of -which see a more particular account hereafter. In the year 1806 our -affairs with Spain began to wear a very serious aspect, and the troops -of the two governments almost came to actual hostilities on the -frontiers of Texas and the Orleans territory. At this time, when -matters bore every appearance of coming to a crisis, I was fitting out -for my expedition from St. Louis, where some of the Spanish emissaries -in that country transmitted the information to Majar. Merior [_sic_] -and the Spanish council at that place, who immediately forwarded the -information to the then commandant of Nacogdoches, Captain Sebastian -Rodreriques [_sic_] who forwarded it to Colonel [Don Antonio] Cordero, -by whom it was transmitted to [General Don Nimesio Salcedo, at -Chihuahua,] the seat of government. This information was personally -communicated to me, as an instance of the rapid means they possessed -of transmitting information relative to the occurrences transacting on -our frontiers. The expedition was then determined on, and had three -objects in view: - -1st. To descend the Red river, in order, if he met our expedition, to -intercept and turn us back; or, should Major Sparks[I-72] and Mr. -[Thomas] Freeman have missed the party from Nacogdoches, under the -command of Captain Viana, to oblige them to return and not penetrate -further into the country, or make them prisoners of war. - -2d. To explore and examine all the internal parts of the country from -the frontiers of the province of New Mexico to the Missouri between -the La Platte [sentence unfinished]. - -3d. To visit the Tetaus, Pawnees republic, Grand Pawnees, Pawnee -Mahaws, and Kans.[I-73] To the head chief of each of those nations the -commanding officer bore flags, a commission, grand medal, and four -mules; and with all of them he had to renew the chains of ancient -amity which was said to have existed between their father, his most -Catholic majesty, and his children the red people. - -The commanding officers also bore positive orders to oblige all -parties or persons, in the above-specified countries, either to -retire from them into the acknowledged territories of the United -States, or to make prisoners of them and conduct them into the -province of N. Mexico. Lieutenant Don Facundo Malgares, the officer -selected from the five internal provinces to command this expedition, -was a European (his uncle was one of the royal judges in the kingdom -of New Spain), and had distinguished himself in several long -expeditions against the Apaches and other Indian nations with whom the -Spaniards were at war; added to these circumstances, he was a man of -immense fortune, and generous in its disposal, almost to profusion; -possessed a liberal education, high sense of honor, and a disposition -formed for military enterprise. This officer marched from the province -of Biscay with 100 dragoons of the regular service, and at Santa Fe, -the place where the expedition was fitted out, he was joined by 500 of -the mounted militia of that province, armed after the manner described -by my notes on that subject, and completely equipped with ammunition, -etc., for six months; each man leading with them (by order) two horses -and one mule, the whole number of their beasts was 2,075. They -descended the Red river 233 leagues; met the grand bands of the -Tetaus, and held councils with them; then struck off N. E., and -crossed the country to the Arkansaw, where Lieutenant Malgares left -240 of his men with the lame and tired horses, while he proceeded on -with the rest to the Pawnee republic. Here he was met by the chiefs -and warriors of the Grand Pawnees; held councils with the two nations -and presented them the flags, medals, etc., which were destined for -them. He did not proceed to the execution of his mission with the -Pawnee Mahaws and Kans, as he represented to me, from the poverty of -their horses and the discontent of his own men; but, as I conceive, -from the suspicion and discontent which began to arise between the -Spaniards and the Indians; the former wished to revenge the death of -Villineuve and party, while the latter possessed all the suspicions of -conscious villainy deserving punishment. Malgares took with him all -the traders he found there from our country, some of whom, having -been sent to Natchitoches, were in abject poverty at that place on my -arrival, and applied to me for means to return to St. Louis. -Lieutenant Malgares returned to Santa Fe the ---- of October, when his -militia was disbanded; but he remained in the vicinity of that place -until we were brought in, when he, with dragoons, became our escort to -the seat of government [in Chihuahua]. - -_Sept. 26th._ Finding our encampment not eligible as to situation, we -moved down on to the prairie hill, about three-fourths of a mile -nearer the village. We sent our interpreter to town to trade for -provisions. About three o'clock in the afternoon 12 Kans arrived at -the village, and informed Baroney that they had come to meet us, -hearing that we were to be at the Pawnees' village. We pitched our -camp upon a beautiful eminence, whence we had a view of the town and -all that was transacting. In the evening Baroney, with the chief, came -to camp to give us the news, and returned together. - -_Sept. 27th._ Baroney arrived from the village about one o'clock, with -Characterish, whose commission from the Governor of New Mexico was -dated Santa Fe, June 15th, 1806, and three other chiefs, to all of -whom we gave a dinner. I then made an appropriate present to each, -after which Lieutenant Wilkinson and myself accompanied them to town, -where we remained a few hours, and returned. Appointed to-morrow for -the interview with the Kans and Osage. - -_Sunday, Sept. 28th._ Held a council of the Kans and Osage, and made -them smoke of the pipe of peace. Two of the Kans agreed to accompany -us. We received a visit from the chief of the village. Made an -observation on an emersion of one of Jupiter's satellites. - -_Sept. 29th._ Held our grand council with the Pawnees, at which were -present not less than 400 warriors, the circumstances of which were -extremely interesting. The notes I took on my grand council held with -the Pawnee nation were seized by the Spanish government, together -with all my speeches to the different nations. But it may be -interesting to observe here, in case they should never be returned, -that the Spaniards had left several of their flags in this village, -one of which was unfurled at the chief's door the day of the grand -council; and that among various demands and charges I gave them was, -that the said flag should be delivered to me, and one of the United -States' flags be received and hoisted in its place. This probably was -carrying the pride of nations a little too far, as there had so lately -been a large force of Spanish cavalry at the village, which had made a -great impression on the minds of the young men, as to their power, -consequence, etc., which my appearance with 20 infantry was by no -means calculated to remove. - -After the chiefs had replied to various parts of my discourse, but -were silent as to the flag, I again reiterated the demand for the -flag, adding "that it was impossible for the nation to have two -fathers; that they must either be the children of the Spaniards, or -acknowledge their American father." After a silence of some time an -old man rose, went to the door, took down the Spanish flag, brought it -and laid it at my feet; he then received the American flag, and -elevated it on the staff which had lately borne the standard of his -Catholic Majesty. This gave great satisfaction to the Osage and Kans, -both of whom decidedly avow themselves to be under American -protection. Perceiving that every face in the council was clouded with -sorrow, as if some great national calamity were about to befall them, -I took up the contested colors, and told them "that as they had shown -themselves dutiful children in acknowledging their great American -father, I did not wish to embarrass them with the Spaniards, for it -was the wish of the Americans that their red brethren should remain -peaceably around their own fires, and not embroil themselves in any -disputes between the white people; and that for fear the Spaniards -might return there in force again, I returned them their flag, but -with an injunction that it should never be hoisted again during our -stay." At this there was a general shout of applause, and the charge -was particularly attended to. - -_Sept. 30th._ Remained all day at the camp, but sent Baroney to town, -who informed me on his return that the chief appeared to wish to throw -great obstacles in our way. A great disturbance had taken place in the -village, owing to one of the young Pawnees, Frank, who lately came -from the United States, having taken the wife of an Osage and run away -with her. The chief, in whose lodge the Osage put up, was extremely -enraged, considering it a breach of hospitality to a person under his -roof, and threatened to kill Frank if he caught him. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[I-1] Belle Fontaine or Bellefontaine is the name of the large -cemetery in the environs of St. Louis, where William Clark lies -buried; and probably few persons now living know its proper -geographical connotation. The cemetery is four miles from the Court -House, and ten miles further is the place whose name was given to the -burying-ground on the road thither, after its original designation as -the Rural Cemetery. Belle Fontaine was a place on the south bank of -the river, 14 m. north of St. Louis, in what is now St. Ferdinand -township of St. Louis Co. (Sect. 10, T. 47 N., R. 7 E. of this -county). Before there was any such "place," or locality, Belle -Fontaine was the French name of the creek which falls in there, which -had been called Ferdinand by the Spanish, and which became known to -the English as Cold Water creek, there being a fine large spring under -the bluffs, close to the Missouri. This, however, was washed away by -the encroachment of the river. We find the latter name in Lewis and -Clark, who made the first camp of their expedition on Green isl., -opposite the mouth of the creek, May 14th, 1804. There was nothing -then at the place that was soon to become forever notable as the spot -where was built the first military post ever established in the newly -acquired territory of Louisiana. Much early history attaches to the -locality, some of which may be here epitomized, mainly on the basis of -Billon's Annals. In 1768, when St. Louis was but begun, Captain Rios -arrived with 25 soldiers under orders from Count Ulloa to establish -Spanish authority in the region where things were at a standstill, if -not in distraction. Rios was persona non grata in the infant St. -Louis; he withdrew, and selected Belle Fontaine as a suitable location -for a post. Late in 1768 he there built a fort which he called Fort -Prince Charles in honor of the son of his king and heir apparent to -the Spanish throne. In 1769 Rios left with his men; in 1770 Piernas -came. The Spanish presidio was soon turned into a commercial factory -or trading-post. On Sept. 10th, 1797, Governor Zenon Trudeau granted -to Hezekiah Lord a concession of 1,000 arpents of land on Belle -Fontaine or Cold Water cr.; and on the site of the former Spanish fort -Lord built a house and mill. He died in 1799; his estate was sold in -partition in 1803, when 600 arpents were bought by William Massey. In -1805, General James Wilkinson selected the place for a military -establishment, and United States troops were first cantoned in -temporary quarters during the winter of 1805-6. This was the original -Cantonment Belle Fontaine. On April 20th, 1806, General Wilkinson -purchased from Massey, on behalf of the United States, five acres of -ground with the improvements, called Belle Fontaine, with the use for -five years of the ground on which had been located the cantonment, and -upon these five acres established a permanent post. In July, 1806, he -purchased the rest of the tract of 500 arpents, which was conveyed to -the United States in Mar., 1809. Belle Fontaine was really the parent -of Jefferson Barracks; for, after the establishment of Forts Atkinson, -Snelling, and others on the Missouri and Mississippi frontiers, it -lost its importance from a military point of view, and was abandoned -for the site of the present Jefferson Barracks. This in 1825; on July -4th of which year Colonel Talbot Chambers, with four companies of the -1st United States Infantry, evacuated Belle Fontaine and proceeded to -the new site which had been selected, though the place remained for -some ten years in charge of a military storekeeper, Major John -Whistler. General Lewis Cass, Secretary of War under Van Buren, -ordered it to be sold at public auction in 1836. It was bought by -Jamison Samuel, Dunham Spalding, H. N. Davis, and E. L. Langham, who -laid out a paper town that never came to anything. Agriculture finally -reclaimed Belle Fontaine after the military occupancy; it was bought -for a farm by the late Dr. David C. Tandy of St. Louis, whose son, -Robert E. Tandy, now or lately did live there. The old road can still -be traced in part over ground where it ran more than a century ago. - -[I-2] The roster of the party, with some of the most notable -particulars, is as follows: - -COMMISSIONED OFFICERS (2). - -1. Captain Zebulon M. Pike. Escorted to Mexico from his post on the -Rio Conejos, with six privates, by Spanish dragoons, Feb. 26th, 1807. -His men, excepting one left with Jackson, were Brown, Carter, Gorden, -Menaugh, Mountjoy, Roy, and Stoute. - -2. Lieutenant James B. Wilkinson. Detached to descend the Arkansaw -with five men, from camp near Great Bend, Aug. 28th, 1806. - -NON-COMMISSIONED OFFICERS (3). - -1. Sergeant Joseph Ballenger. Went with Wilkinson. - -2. Sergeant William E. Meek. Sent from Rio Conejos to relief of -abandoned men, Feb. 19th, 1807. - -3. Corporal Jeremiah R. Jackson. Left in charge of post on Rio -Conejos, with Carter, Feb. 26th, 1807, to await return of Meek and -Miller with Vasquez, Smith, Sparks, and Dougherty. - -PRIVATES (16). - -1. John Boley. Went with Wilkinson, Aug. 28th, 1806. - -2. Samuel Bradley. Went with Wilkinson, Aug. 28th, 1806. - -3. John Brown. Left with Jackson on Rio Conejos, Feb. 26th, 1807. - -4. Jacob Carter. Went with Pike, Feb. 26th, 1807. - -5. Thomas Dougherty. Abandoned in Sangre de Cristo mountains with -frozen feet, Jan. 22d, 1807. - -6. William Gorden. Went with Pike, Feb. 26th, 1807. - -7. Solomon Huddleston. Went with Wilkinson, Aug. 28th, 1806. - -8. Henry Kennerman. Deserted July 19th, 1806. - -9. Hugh Menaugh. Abandoned in Sangre de Cristo mountains, Jan. 27th, -1807; recovered on Rio Conejos, Feb. 18th, 1807; went with Pike, Feb. -26th, 1807. - -10. Theodore Miller. Went with Meek to relief of abandoned men, Feb. -19th, 1807. - -11. John Mountjoy. Went with Pike, Feb. 26th, 1807. - -12. Alexander Roy. Went with Pike, Feb. 26th, 1807. - -13. Patrick Smith. Left with Vasquez on the Arkansaw at site of -present Canyon City, Jan. 14th, 1807. - -14. John Sparks. Abandoned in Sangre de Cristo mountains with frozen -feet, Jan. 22d, 1807. - -15. Freegift Stoute. Went with Pike, Feb. 26th, 1807. - -16. John Wilson. Went with Wilkinson, Aug. 28th, 1806. - -CIVILIANS (2). - -1. Dr. John H. Robinson, volunteer surgeon. Left Pike on the Rio -Conejos to proceed to Santa Fe alone, Feb. 7th, 1807. - -2. Interpreter A. F. Baronet Vasquez. Left with Smith on the Arkansaw, -at site of present Canyon City, Jan. 14th, 1807. - -Of these persons-- - -(1) Lieutenant Wilkinson, Sergeant Ballenger, and Privates Boley, -Bradley, Huddleston, and Wilson descended the Arkansaw and reached New -Orleans in February, 1807. - -(2) Private Kennerman deserted. - -(3) Dr. Robinson left Captain Pike at the post on Conejos r., and went -to Mexico on his own account. - -(4) Captain Pike, Sergeant Meek, Corporal Jackson, Privates Brown, -Carter, Dougherty, Gorden, Menaugh, Miller, Mountjoy, Roy, Smith, -Sparks, Stoute, and Interpreter Vasquez were escorted in separated -parties to Mexico by Spanish dragoons. Of whom-- - -(5) Captain Pike, Privates Brown, Gorden, Menaugh, Roy, and Stoute -were escorted back to the United States, and reached Nachitoches on or -about July 1st, 1807; while-- - -(6) Sergeant Meek, Corporal Jackson, Privates Carter, Dougherty, -Miller, Mountjoy, Smith, and Sparks, and Interpreter Vasquez, were -still detained in Mexico at the time of Pike's return, and are not -accounted for in his narrative. - -(7) The 51 Indians, which raised to 74 the total of persons who left -Belle Fontaine, were all dropped at their respective destinations, and -no others were permanently attached to the party which reached the -Rocky mts. - -[I-3] Past present Jamestown ldg. to Carbunker's pt., off which the -large Pelican isl. now separates Car of Commerce bend from Pelican -bend. - -[I-4] See L. and C., ed. 1893, p. 6, and Pike's Dissertation, etc., -beyond. The village was then the seat of justice of the District of -St. Charles, Louisiana Territory, as it is now of St. Charles Co., Mo. -The Wabash, St. L. and Pac. R. R. bridged the Mo. r. here; opposite is -Bon Fils station; also Brotherton. St. Charles was not so called till -1784; the place had been known as Les Petites Cotes, where the hunter -Blanchette settled about 1770: note 41, p. 214. In to-day's journey -Pike passed the place known as Piper's (or Fifer's) ldg.: see the mark -"Ferry" on his map. The principal point was the coal hill on the -south, then known as La Charbonniere, now Charbonnier pt. A present or -recent place of ferriage is Music's or Hall's; some of the landings -are Heagler's, Kemp's, and Orick's or Orrick's; some of the present -islands above the Pelicans are Charbonnier or Mullanphy, Holmes, and -Vingt-une. There was a marsh or lake on the N. side, 5 or 6 m. below -St. Charles, which the French called Marais Croche, Crooked marsh; -some maps now make it Marie Croche l. - -[I-5] M. de Lisa was one of the most noted Missourian Indian traders -in those days. This is certainly not the last, and probably not the -first, time he played exactly that trick. Pike has a good deal to say -of him further on: see also L. and C., pp. lxxix, 62, 242, 256, 443, -1153, 1154, 1232, where my notes refer to further information in -Brackenridge's Travels and Irving's Astoria. Lisa was at one time -associated with Captain Clark in the fur-trade. - -[I-6] One of the two letters Pike wrote to Wilkinson formed No. 3 of -the App. to Pt. 2 of the orig. ed. See beyond, where it is given. - -[I-7] See L. and C., ed. 1893, pp. 2, 8, 1182, 1211; also, p. 1257, -where Charette's cr. and village are given, showing this to be a -personal name. We come to the place presently. - -[I-8] This letter formed No. 4 of the App. to Pt. 2 of the orig. ed. -It is given beyond. - -[I-9] This mileage would set Pike about Cottleville ldg., on the N., -though I hardly think he got quite so far. He passed Fee Fee and -Crevecoeur creeks on the S., latter discharging from Crevecoeur -l.; Little Duckett and Big Duckett creeks, near together, on the N.; -Catfish isl., behind which is Howard bend, into which Bon Homme or -Good Man's r. falls, about opposite the middle of Green's bottom, N., -31/2 m. long, separated by Green's chute from Bon Homme isl., next above -which comes Bacon's or Post's isl., and then Cottleville ldg. If Pike -reached this place, he was 44 m. from the mouth of the Missouri, -according to recent charts. - -[I-10] Late Sergeant Henry Kennerman, reduced to the ranks for cause -at Pike's stockade on the Upper Mississippi r., Mar. 9th, 1806: see p. -181 and note 10, p. 245. He was posted as a deserter in various -places, but we are not told he was retaken. He drops out of the story -at this point. With Kennerman deserted, Vasquez arrested, and Geo. -Henry engaged, the whites of the party are now 23 - 2 + 1 = 22; Vasquez -rejoins on the 21st, when the roster is again 23. - -[I-11] Position uncertain, especially as the text of the 18th-20th -cannot be squared with the camp-marks on Pike's map. Going by the -text, which agrees with the actual geography better than the map does, -we may set Pike in the vicinity of St. Albans. To reach this point -from his last camp he passes places on the N. now known as Cottleville -ldg., Hamburg, and Dozier's ldg. At the last named Femme Osage r. -falls into the lower end of Dozier's bend. The Missouri is here 11/2-2 -m. broad, and mostly filled with Howell's isl., 21/2 m. long, some small -islands, and various sand-bars. Thence on the N. or rather N. W. is a -bottom 8 m. long and a mile or more deep; while on the S. E. is a -nearly unbroken line of bluffs which the river washes from Port Royal -(in Franklin Co., just over the border of St. Louis Co.) to St. -Albans. At one place in these rocks is the cave formerly, and perhaps -still, known as the Tavern: see L. and C., ed. 1893, p. 8, and Pike's -map, place lettered "Cave." The small stream which makes in on the S. -W. at St. Albans is still called Tavern cr.; and directly opposite is -Murdoch's ldg. The Mo. R. Comm. charts of 1879 mark a place -Missouriton on the N. W., 2 m. below Murdoch's ldg. Nicollet's map, -pub. 1843, marks Missouriton on the N., slightly _below_ mouth of -Femme Osage r., about position of present Hamburg. - -[I-12] The "point to the south" which Pike passes I take to be that -opp. Cottlebaum's ldg., at the mouth of Ridenour or Fiddle cr., at the -head of the difficult place called Devil's Race-ground by Lewis and -Clark: see ed. of 1893, p. 8. This is a couple of miles above St. -Albans, at the 55th river-mile point of recent surveys. The bluffs -continue a mile or so, and then, at the mouth of Labadie's cr. or -slough, begins the extensive Labadie's bottom on the S., for the -Missouri crosses over to the bluffs on the N., and continues on that -side to the town of Augusta, St. Charles Co. Thence the channel runs -obliquely by the Augusta and Hinkley bends, between Labadie's and -Hancock's bottoms, to the S. side again. Here, at Mung's or South -Point isl., is the lower end of the "long reach," N. W., in which Pike -says he camped. We set him on the S., at the mouth of Dubois or Wood -cr., where there is now a place called South Point. This is directly -opposite the line between St. Charles and Warren cos. on the N.; it is -about 2 m. below Washington, Franklin Co., and at the 67th mile-point -from the mouth of the Missouri. Pike maps the stream in the right -place, but by the wrong name of "Ash R." - -[I-13] The proper name of the interpreter, whom Pike usually calls -"Baroney," was A. F. Baronet Vasquez. He was b. St. Louis, 1783; his -wife was Emily Faustine Parent. He was the son of Benito Vasquez (b. -1750) and Julia Papin (married Nov. 27th, 1774), and was the fifth -child of 12 they had. He appears in army registers as Barony Vasquez, -appointed to be an ensign in the 2nd Infantry Dec. 12th, 1808; -transferred to 1st Infantry Oct. 31st, 1810; commissioned as second -lieutenant Mar. 4th, 1811; promoted to a first lieutenancy July 30th, -1813; and resigned Oct. 1st, 1814. See also a letter about him in my -Memoir of Pike, _antea_. - -[I-14] See note 7, p. 361. La Charette is still the name of the -stream, and of the extensive bottom on the N. side through which the -river seeks the Missouri. But the settlement once so called is not to -be found by this name on modern maps. Instead of this we have -Marthasville (3 m. N. of which stands still the house in which Daniel -Boone died), a village about a mile from the Missouri, and nearly -midway between the points where La Charette cr. and Tuque cr. -respectively enter the bottom. Marthasville appears on maps of 50 -years ago, as for example, on Nicollet's, 1843. Gass calls the place -St. Johns where he camped May 25th, 1804; it then had seven houses: -see L. and C., ed. 1893, p. 8. St. Johns is now the name of the -largest one of a cluster of islands and sand-bars in an expanded part -of the Missouri, between the mouth of La Charette cr. on the N. and of -St. Johns or Bourbeuse cr. on the S., 2 m. and more above the town of -Washington, Franklin Co. Pike maps "S^t. Johns R." correctly between -his "Ash R." (error for Wood or Dubois cr.) and his "Bay R." (error -for Boeuf r.). Washington is the most notable place Pike passes -to-day; it is now quite a town, large enough to have started a place -opposite itself, called North Washington, on Lac's pt. in Warren Co. -Here is where, at the 69th river-mile point, a creek falls in on the -N.; it is commonly called Tuque cr., though Sheet III. of the Mo. R. -Comm. charts has "Duke" as the name. It looks like a French word, but -whether it be a personal name, or derived from _Toque_ or _Turque_, -does not appear. It is one of two creeks which L. and C. speak of -passing on the N., May 25th; the other one of these has never been -identified. But there is an old lake bed, or something of the sort, a -couple of miles back of North Washington, in Hancock's bottom, under -the bluffs, and I imagine this once discharged about opp. Dubois or -Wood cr.--say at Rieskamp's place, on the boundary between St. Charles -and Warren cos. Tuque cr. itself seems to have had more than one -outlet, in the course of the several miles it meanders the low land -and separates Hancock's bottom from La Charette. - -[I-15] Originally Docs. Nos. 5 and 6, p. 33 and p. 36 of the App. to -Pt. 2. They are given beyond. - -[I-16] To camp at New Haven, Franklin Co., a considerable town which -has grown up of late years at the place formerly known as Miller's -ldg., on the S., a little below Pinckney pt. Passing through Charette -bend, beyond Patton's pt. and ldg., Pike comes to the mouth of the -Riviere au Boeuf of the French, now Boeuf or Buffalo r., which -falls in on the S. behind Boeuf, Buffalo, or Shelton's isl., about a -mile below Dundee station of the Mo. Pac. R. R. This is the stream by -error lettered "Bay R." on Pike's map. On rounding Emily and Miller -bends, Pike comes to his camp, say at the 85th river-mile point of -late surveys. Here he is 11/2 m. below a place which was charted by -Nicollet in 1843 as Griswold, and which may be found on maps of but -few years ago, but has since disappeared. On the N., opp. Griswold, -was a place called Pinckney or Pinckneyville, seat of Warren Co. about -1825, and there is still a hamlet of the same name in the vicinity. -The Shepherd r. which the above text mentions falls in about a mile -above Griswold and the same below the present R. R. station Etlah. -This is Shepherd's cr. of L. and C., ed. 1893, p. 9, but is oftener -now called Berger r. or cr. I am told by R. J. Holcombe that the word -is not the common F. noun _berger_, a shepherd, but a personal name, -probably of the old German pioneer Caspar Burger, a founder of the -colony there; if so, it should not have been translated into English. -The word is mangled into "Boeger" on the beautiful chart of the Mo. R. -Comm. It is a pity that so many cases as bad as this one mar the -lettering of such fine draughtsman's work as Mr. D. W. Wellman's. -Berger's or Burger's cr. comes into the bottom 2 m. above its mouth, -and is there joined by Little Berger's or Burger's cr., which runs -about 41/2 m. in the bottom before its confluence; the two thus make -what is known as Berger's (_i. e._, Burger's) bottom nearly an island, -6 or 7 m. long. - -[I-17] On rounding Pinckney pt. through the bend of that name, Pike -passes the mouth of Berger's cr., opp. Yeager's ldg., crosses to the -N. side of the Missouri, and sails along with Berger's bottom on his -left for several miles; he goes by Whitehouse's isl., near which L. -and C. were camped May 26th, 1804, and on finishing with Berger's -bottom, reaches a place on the N. called Bridgeport. This is pretty -old for a Missouri River town; we find it located more than 50 years -ago, and it still exists in name, but has never amounted to much. Opp. -Bridgeport is Bates' isl., 2 m. long, the largest one of several at -the head of Berger's bottom. In the vicinity of Bridgeport several -small creeks fall in on the N. Three of these are called Lost cr., -Massas (qu. Massey's?) cr., and Malhern (qu. Malheur?) cr. Excepting -Lost cr., these fall into Chenal a Loutre or Otter slough; and this -snicarty cuts off a very large piece of bottom known as Ile a Loutre -or Otter isl. L. and C. speak of this as nearly 10 m. long, and say -that it was one of the most fertile in the whole river. The details of -the river bottom along here seem to have altered a good deal since -1804, and even since Long's time; the upper end of the slough is now a -little above Hermann, near McGirk's isl. and ldg., cutting the island -down to a total length of not over 7 m. The slough itself is very -narrow, and hardly more than a sluggish creek, like a good many others -that meander bottoms before they discharge. L. and C. speak of three -creeks which fall in behind Otter isl., and one of these as having the -same name. This is Riviere a la Loutre of early F. settlers, now -Loutre, Louter, or Luter r., and Otter r., very curiously lettered on -the Mo. R. Comm. map, as "L'Outre"--a form which only needs an accent -to be decidedly _outre_. Pike maps the stream as "Otter Riv." He -proceeds by Otter or Loutre Island bend to a mile or so above Hermann, -and camps on the S. In finishing the bend just named he passes on the -S. the county line between Franklin and Gasconade, which cuts through -Bates' isl., and then on the N. the line between Warren and Montgomery -cos., which cuts the upper part of Otter isl. at the lower point of -Hermann isl., opp. the town of this name. This is now quite a place, -and more than 50 years old. It is situated across the mouth of Riviere -aux Frenes of the F., commonly called Frene cr. and Ash cr., but -uncommonly appearing as "Frame" cr. on the Mo. R. Comm. map. Pike does -not map Ash cr., though it is given under this name by L. and C.: for -the stream he marks "Ash R." by mistake, see note 12, p. 363. - -Loutre isl. is quite historic. A number of Americans and some French -families settled there in 1805; first child born was Jacob Grosjean -(name corrupted to Groshong); one b. 1806 became the local celebrity -known as "old man Patton," living in 1884. Fort Clemson was built by -Capt. Clemson about 1808, and maintained till after the war of -1812-15. From 1808 to 1816 there was quite a colony, whence were drawn -the settlers for Boone's Lick, Howard Co. On the N. mainland the -colonists, when the war broke out, were killed in part, and the rest -driven to the island to be "forted up" till the peace. Fort Clemson -was a Rangers' hdqrs. in the war, and from this post Capt. James -Callaway, grandson of Daniel Boone, set out in March, 1815, on the -expedition up Loutre r., during which he and others were killed. -Daniel Boone's Spanish grant from Gov. Delassus was about 15 m. up the -Loutre, and included a salt spring--the original and only genuine -"Boone's Lick"; Boone's adopted son Van Bibber kept a tavern there, -where Washington Irving stopped some time in the '30's; it is now -reputed a medicinal spring in the little village Mineola, near -Danville, seat of Montgomery Co. - -[I-18] Passing McGirk's ldg. and isl. N., Cole's or Coles' cr., S., -Rineland and Kallmeyer's ldgs., S., to the mouth of the Gasconade, -which falls in on the S., opp. Cuyler's pt., 107-1/3 m. up the -Missouri: see L. and C., ed. 1893, p. 9. This is much the largest -tributary of the Missouri thus far reached; Pike elsewhere allows it -200 yards' width at the mouth, and navigability at times of 100 m. He -also notes that the Sac boundary started opp. its mouth: see note 14, -p. 11. Gasconade City is a place on the tongue of land that makes into -the Missouri on the upper side of the Gasconade; being a mere village -or hamlet, is as appropriately named as the river itself, which got -its name from the way some persons bragged about their exploits when -they returned to St. Louis. Beck's Gaz. speaks of pine which was cut -and rafted down, but there has been none for 60 years within 150 -miles. - -[I-19] One of these letters, given beyond, formed No. 7, p. 36, of the -App. to Pt. 2. of the orig. ed. - -[I-20] Pike's map marks no camp for the 26th. The distance between -Gasconade and Osage rivers is exactly 30 m. by the channel. Pike says -he goes 15 m. to-day; I doubt that he went so far if he did not leave -the Gasconade till 6.30 p. m. But to take the record on its face would -be to set him a mile above Fisher's ldg., on the S., in the vicinity -of the hamlet called Chamois, in Osage Co. On decamping and ferrying -over the Gasconade, Pike first passed the mouth of Bailey's cr. (Deer -cr. of L. and C.), on the S., whence the channel took him obliquely to -Bluffton on the N., 5 m. above the Gasconade. The bluffs border the -river for about 4 m. along here, and at one place in them is the cave -which used to be known as Montbrun's Tavern: see L. and C., _l. c._ At -1 or 11/2 m. above Bluffton the line between Montgomery and Callaway -cos. comes to the Missouri just about opp. the line between Gasconade -and Osage cos. on the S.; this last strikes the river-bottom just -where Bailey's cr. also does. At 5 m. above Bluffton is Portland, -Callaway Co., before reaching which Pike passes Little Tavern and Big -Tavern creeks, which are a mile apart, on the N., and both opp. -Portland isl., 2 m. long; while a mile above Portland is the mouth of -Logan cr. On the S. along here is a creek whose mysteries I have never -been able to fathom. This is Rush cr. of L. and C., _l. c._, given by -them as 4 m. above Montbrun's Tavern, on the S. It is called Greassy -cr. by the Mo. R. Comm., and Greasy cr. by the U. S. G. S.; the latter -name is probably correct. It comes into the bottom in the vicinity of -Chamois, about the 121st river-mile point, meanders down for several -miles, and finally discharges behind Portland isl., somewhere between -the 117th and 115th m. of the Mo. R. Comm. - -[I-21] To an interesting locality--that of the old French village, -Cote sans Dessein, so called from the celebrated long narrow ledge of -rocks of the same name immediately above, isolated on the N. bank of -the river opposite Dodd's isl. In approaching the Osage, Pike maps two -streams from the N., respectively lettered "Gr. R. au vase" and "L. R. -au vase." The first of these is Grande Riviere au Vase or Grande -Riviere Vaseuse of the F., which appears on the best modern maps as Au -Vasse and Auxvasse r.--better talk English than such Missouri French -as this, and say Big Muddy r., as L. and C. did! This considerable -stream falls in a mile above Harrison's ldg., about 1231/2 m. by the -channel from the mouth of the Missouri. The other is Little Muddy r. -of L. and C., who translated Petite Riviere au Vase (or Petite Riviere -Vaseuse) better than those do who now style it Au Vasse cr. or -Auxvasse cr. This creek joins in the bottom-land another now called -Middle r. or cr., and the two fall in together a mile above the -village of St. Aubert, Callaway Co. Moreover: between the Big and the -Little Muddy there is a third creek, distinct from both the others, -falling in 11/2 m. _below_ St. Aubert. This is simply called Muddy cr. -on the Mo. R. Comm. map; on that of the U. S. G. S. it is lettered -Ewing's cr. A branch of this is lettered by the U. S. G. S. East Wing -cr.--a name which I suspect originated in mistaking "Ewing" for "E. -Wing." On the S. side of the Missouri Pike passes two small streams, -both historically notable. The first of these is the one which L. and -C. called Grindstone cr., when they camped at its mouth May 30th, -1804; but it is now known as Deer cr. It falls in behind St. Aubert's -isl., a mile below St. Aubert station on the Mo. Pac. R. R., or the -village now called Medora, 126-2/3 m. up the Mo. r. One Carr has or -had his home at the mouth of this creek. The other creek is 43/4 m. -above Grindstone or Deer cr., and 11/4 m. above Shipley's ldg.; it is -the one L. and C. called Bear cr., May 31st, 1804; Pike charted it -"Bear R.," and it is now called Bear or Loose cr. I suppose "Loose" -cr. to be a loose translation of F. R. a l'Ours or a l'Ourse, -according to whether it was a he-bear or a she-bear which the -Frenchman who first named the creek killed there. In any event this -stream has given name to the village of Loose Creek and to Bear Creek -isl., opposite its mouth. Four miles higher on the S., opposite the -foot of Dodd's isl., is the village of Dauphine at the place where one -Benet, Benite, Benoit, Bennet, Bonnet, Bonnot, or Bennight built his -mill, 15-20 years ago. Dauphine is almost exactly opposite the site of -the old French village above named, which started about 1808 and had a -dozen or more families in 1811. There is a sort of settlement in this -vicinity immediately at the lower end of the Cote sans Dessein, at one -time known as Bennet's ldg.; people named Gray, Crews, and Maddox live -or lived there. Behind the Cote are some small lakes or ponds -discharging by R. aux Riveaux or Riveaux cr. (as it is called) around -the upper end of the Cote, near Dearing's ldg. Hence it is only 11/2 m. -diagonally across the Missouri to Glenn's ldg. at the mouth of the -Osage r. See L. and C., ed. 1893, p. 11. - -[I-22] Arising in the Ozark mts. of Kansas, the Osage r. leaves that -State and enters Missouri in Vernon Co., which it delimits in part -from Bates Co.; traverses St. Clair and continues past the corner -where this, Henry, and Benton cos. adjoin; traverses Benton, enters -Morgan, forms a part of the boundary between this and Camden, makes a -loop through the latter and again separates it for a short space from -Morgan, then for a little distance separates Camden from Miller, -traverses the latter, enters Cole, and finally runs to the Mo. r. -between this last and Osage cos. We shall learn much more of this -stream as we follow it up in Pike's wake. There is a village called -Osage City at its mouth on the west bank; Pike's camp is also on this -side, in Cole Co., past two small tributaries known as Caddy and -Sandford's creeks, and not far above Maries r., which comes from -Pulaski through Maries (named for two French girls) and Osage cos. to -fall in on the E. or right (left hand) bank. A Spanish fort -(trading-house) was built about 1795 near the mouth of the Osage. - -[I-23] No further indication of camp of 29th, which is also omitted by -the draughtsman or engraver from Pike's map; nor is there any notable -modern locality along here. But it must be short of where the Osage, -after coursing in Cole Co., begins to separate the latter from Osage -Co. Nearest present settlements, Babbtown, Osage Co., and St. Thomas, -Cole Co. - -[I-24] In Cole Co., and a mile or two above Proft's cr.; about 2 m. N. -E. of St. Thomas, and 4 m. S. E. of Osage Bluff. - -[I-25] Camp a little above Big Tavern cr., from the E., in Miller Co., -on whichever side of the river it was pitched. There is no mark on -Pike's map for this camp, nor those of Aug. 2d and 3d. The nearest -named places to the camp of July 31st and Aug. 1st, and that of Aug. -2d (only 2 m. further), are St. Elizabeth, on Big Tavern cr., and -Mary's Home, west of the Osage--both in Miller Co., but both some -miles away from the river. On breaking camp this morning, Pike passed -on his right the bluffs from which the hamlet of Osage Bluff takes its -name; this is about a mile north of the river. He later passed Babruly -cr., from the W., whose name is obviously a corruption of Bois Brule; -then Sugar cr., from the E., and next Little Tavern cr., falling in -from the W. a mile or two below Big Tavern cr. There was more than one -cave or "tavern" in the bluff near the creek: see figure of one, where -the early Osage boatmen used to put up, in the Mo. Geol. Reports. - -[I-26] Passing Cub cr., right; Humphrey's and Panther creeks, left; -then the present Saline cr., on the right. This is laid down and -lettered "Saline R." on Pike's map; but observe that it is _not_ the -Saline r. of Aug. 7th: see that date. Above Saline cr. Pike passes Dog -cr., left, and then present site of Tuscumbia, seat of Miller Co., on -the right; and camps at or near present site of Brockman, on the -right, a mile above Bear cr., in the same county. - -[I-27] Taking Pike past a place called Bagnell, on the right, just -below present Little Gravois cr., in Miller Co., and setting him -somewhere about the point on the river where Miller, Morgan, and -Camden cos. come together--the latter on the S., the two former on the -N. side, as the river is here running E. His camp of Aug. 4th and 5th -is marked on his map, on the left, just below the mouth of his Little -Gravel r., which he passes on the 6th: see next note. - -[I-28] On the right hand as Pike ascends, left bank of the Osage, and -rather on the N. than W., as the general course of the river is to the -E. The "Gravel" rivers of Pike require attention in identifying them -with ours. The Osage is here making an ox-bow bend, which reverses -points of the compass so far as a traveler's right and left are -concerned. The stream now in question, Gravel r. of the above text, -lettered "L. Gravel R." on the map, is that now known as Big Gravois, -Gravis, or Gravel cr., running in Morgan Co., with a place called -Gladstone near its mouth, one known as Gravois Mills higher up, and -some of whose branches are called Indian, Soap, and Mill creeks. Cape -Galena is 21/2 m. above the mouth of this river. Present Little Gravois -cr. is that one with Bagnell just below its mouth; it is laid down by -an unlettered trace on Pike's map. The correct form of the word is -Gravois, being F. _gravois_, rubbish, rubble, whence "Gravel." - -[I-29] _Not_ the Saline r. of Pike's map, which was passed on the 3d. -"Saline river" of the present text is a slip of the pen or memory; -Pike meant to say Great Gravel r., as correctly laid down by this name -on his map on the left or south, being lettered "G. Gravel R." This is -not the Great Gravel or Big Gravois cr. of present maps, but the -considerable stream now known as Grand Auglaise cr.--a name also -perverted from the F. word _glaise_, clay, into Glaize or Wet Glaize -cr. It heads in Laclede and Pulaski cos., in close relation with -sources of the Gasconade, and runs about N. N. W. through Camden Co. -to fall into the Osage from the S., on the right bank of the river, on -Pike's left, at or near a place called Blackman's Mills. The Osage is -here turning from its E. course to N., whence it soon bends W., then -loops N. and again E., where it receives present Big or Pike's Little -Gravel r., and completes another ox-bow bend. Camp of the 7th, -opposite the notable bluff called "La Belle Roche," is marked on -Pike's map, not far above a place now called Damsel, on the other side -of the Osage; whence the Yungar is reached for breakfast on the 8th. - -[I-30] _Sic_, usually in Pike, and I make no change. But "Cheveux -Blanche" is a phrase joining a masculine plural noun to a feminine -singular adjective. The English ed. alters to Cheveu Blanc; but as -doubtless the savage had more than one hair of that color, probably -Cheveux Blancs would be better in form and fact for the F. name of the -person also known as White Hair. - -[I-31] Before the Youngar is reached Pike passes on his left Linn cr.; -county seat called Linn Creek, a mile above its mouth. The name of the -river has fluctuated widely. Pike has Yungar, Youngar, and also -Nehemgar; the latest G. L. O. and U. S. G. S. maps letter Niangua. The -word, whatever may be its preferable form, is the Osage name of the -bear, though by some it is said to refer to the numerous springs at -the sources of the stream. It is by far the largest tributary of the -Osage thus far reached; Pike credits it with a canoe navigation of 100 -m. The main stream heads in Webster Co., in relation with sources of -the Osage fork of the Gasconade, and runs through Dallas Co., also -touching the W. border of Laclede, into Camden; its tributaries are -numerous and widespread. One called Little Niangua falls in on the W., -6 or 8 m. above the mouth of the main river. To-day's voyage takes the -Expedition past Purvis, and finishes about 4 m. above Bolinger or -Bollinger cr., from the S., on which are the Osage Iron Works. - -[I-32] Pike's map marks none of the places passed to-day by the names -given in his text. We have therefore a triple adjustment to make--of -map with text, and of these with modern geography. This I can do, -bearing in mind that Pike does not necessarily mention places in the -order in which they are passed en route, and that all his mileages are -guessed at by the hours spent in making them. His map marks camp of -Aug. 8th a good ways above the Niangua, and I set it 4 m. above -Bolinger cr., as already said. For the 9th the map has: (1) Big Rock -cr., right; (2) Rapids; (3) Slave r., right; (4) camp, right. The -facts in the case are: Pearson's branch, left; Wells' branch, right; -Proctor cr., right, on which is Proctor; Raney, Rainey, or Rainy cr., -left, with Crittenden at its mouth--none of the foregoing noted by -Pike in any way; then (1) Little Buffalo cr., right, on or near which -is a place called Search; (2) rapids along a long curved bluff, right, -with three little creeks on the left; (3) Big Buffalo cr., right, with -a place called Riverview at its mouth; (4) camp, right. This makes -about 25 m., barely over the border of Morgan into Benton Co., Big -Buffalo cr. falling in just short of the same boundary; whence it is -evident that (1) Big Rock cr. of the map is (1) Little Buffalo cr., on -which is Search; (3) Slave r. of the map is (3) Big Buffalo cr., on -which is Riverview; and this last is the Upper Gravel cr. of the text. -This ends the day, for by no stretch can we get Pike past Pottoe r. of -the text: see next note for this. - -[I-33] Text gives no geography to-day, but the map shows three large -streams between the camp-marks of 9th and 10th. These are: (1) a -river, left, lettered "P. R."--that is, "Pottoe" r.; (2) Francis r., -right; (3) Cardinal r., left. The facts in the case are: Knobby cr., -left, small, at lower point of Williams isl., large; (1) a large -creek, left, falling in at head of Williams isl., called Beaver cr. on -the G. L. O. map, Deer cr. on the U. S. G. S. map, and on which is a -place named Hastain; 2 m. above its mouth is another place called -Duroc, on the S. bank of the Osage; (2) a very large creek, right, -variously called Vermilion, Coal Camp or Cole Camp cr.; (3) a very -large creek, left, called Turkey cr. These three are of the relative -sizes and in the relative positions of the three that Pike charts; so -that unquestionably "P. R." or "Pottoe" r. of Pike's map is (1) the -Beaver or Deer cr.; (2) Francis r. is the Vermilion or Cole or Coal -Camp cr.; and (3) Cardinal r. is the Turkey cr. It is true Pike says -his Pottoe cr. was passed on the 9th; but his map shows otherwise; and -if it had been, that is a question of the location of camp for the -9th, not affecting the identification of the streams here made. The -queer name "Pottoe" I suppose to be intended for Poteau, and not a -misprint for Potatoe: see the name Pomme de Terre or Potatoe for a -river further on. Where Pike got his name Francis r. I have no idea. -His Cardinal r. I imagine was so called by some confusion with -Vermilion r.; for cardinal and vermilion are two names of a red -color--in the one case worn by certain church dignitaries on their -heads, in the other by cochineal insects on their bodies. Camp of the -10th (and 11th) is 3 or 4 m. above Turkey cr. - -[I-34] The lacuna of the orig. text can be supplied from the map, -which marks camp of the 12th as above said. On decamping this morning -Pike passed what he charts as Cave cr. This is the middle one of three -insignificant runs which make in on the right. "Vermillion" r. of -to-day is a mistake. This is the stream Pike charts as Deep cr., on -the right, immediately below Grand r., and is that now called Little -Tebo, Teabo, Tabo, Tebeau, etc. These are commonly supposed to be -forms of a personal name; but I am informed by R. I. Holcombe they are -perversions of Terre Beau, old name of the prairie in Lafayette Co. -where the "Tebo" r. that flows into the Missouri rises. The Osage -tributary called Tebo, etc., falls in a mile below Grand r.; its E. -fork is meandered for some miles by the Sedalia, Warsaw and Southern -branch of the Mo. Pac. R. R., which then leaves the creek and strikes -the Osage 21/2 m. below Warsaw. This is the county seat of Benton, on -the N. bank of the Osage, 2 m. below Little Tabeau cr. and three below -Grand r., opposite the very large island also called Warsaw. Grand r. -of the text and present maps is the largest branch of the Osage passed -since the Niangua was left. It falls in on the N., a mile below -Wright's isl. Some of its affluents head not far from Independence (on -the Mo. r.), and others in Kansas. Its largest branch is Big cr.; -others are Deep Water and Big Tabeau. Camp is in the bight of the bend -that receives Grand r., between Wright's and Holloway isls. - -Pike has mapped the river unmistakably along here, rendering -identifications easy; but the text is not so correct, and requires the -interpretation I have given. The mileages of the 10th-12th seem -excessive. Here, as in various other places, he seems to have supplied -the loss of orig. notes from memory. - -[I-35] In making the circuit Pike passed two rivers which he charts by -name as "Hallico R." and "Potatoe R.," both from the S., or on his -left as he ascends. Potatoe is clearly the same name as Pomme de -Terre, by which latter title is now mapped the large stream which -heads in Webster Co., cuts the N. E. corner of Green, perhaps also the -S. W. corner of Dallas, then traverses Polk and Hickory, and in Benton -falls into the bight of the bend of the Osage herein mentioned. The -natives call this river "Pumly Tar." Two miles above its mouth it -receives the Little Pomme de Terre, from the W., in the vicinity of -Fairfield. A much smaller stream, next above on the same hand, which -is received in the same bend of the Osage, is Hogle's cr. The relative -situations of these would make Pike's Hallico correspond to Pomme de -Terre, and his Potato to Hogle's. But I have no doubt he _meant_ by -Potato the river now called Pomme de Terre, and we need not insist -upon the reversal of names, especially as there may be some small -stream below to answer to Hallico, and it would be nothing for Pike to -pass over so small a creek as Hogle's, both in the text and on the -map. - -[I-36] This letter formed Doc. No. 8 of the App. to Pt. 2. The name, -omission of which causes the hiatus in the text, is Chouteau. The -letter was sent by one Baptiste La Tulipe, who is no doubt the man of -whom we read in Fremont, Rep. 1845, p. 18: "I had found an old -companion on the northern prairie, a hardened and hardly-served -veteran of the mountains, who had been as much hacked and scarred as -an old moustache of Napoleon's 'old guard.' He flourished in the -soubriquet of La Tulipe, and his real name I never knew." - -[I-37] Near the N. E. corner of St. Clair Co. and the S. E. corner of -Henry Co. The Park is a narrow, somewhat rectangular loop of the -Osage, including some bold bluffs in its bight. The distance was much -under "28" m., unless the river were then even crookeder than it is -now. We have to foreshorten the mileages along here, in order to bring -Pike into anything like the proper position above the mouth of Sac r. -on the 16th. He passes five or six small creeks to-day, the last and -largest being charted by Pike as Buckeye cr. This is Wright's, from -the S., in St. Clair Co. A mile above this is a large island, which -seems to be Pike's Turkey isl.; and a mile above this is another, -probably that on which he camped. - -[I-38] That is to say, Lieut. Wilkinson, Dr. Robinson, the -interpreter, and one soldier, who left the boats to march across -country with some of the Indians, thus avoiding the periplus of -several bends in the river. - -[I-39] Pike is still considerably below the present site of Osceola, -at the neck of the last remarkable bend the river makes some 6 or 7 m. -(direct distance) from that town. At present this loop is 4 or 5 m. -around and about a quarter of a mile across at the narrowest part. It -receives several creeks from the N. E., E., and S., the highest and -largest now called Bear cr. In this day's course, which does not -include the circuit of the bend, Pike charts a certain "East River," -which he runs in directly from the W. This corresponds in position -with the stream now called Muddy cr., but if meant for that it is -drawn much too large--half as large as Grand r. itself. - -[I-40] Several points require attention in this long course, whatever -its actual length may have been. 1. Passing Osceola in the forenoon, -Pike reaches his "Grand Fork," _i. e._, the confluence of Sac r. with -the Osage, at noon. This is clear, and the distance seems about right -from the place where I set his camp of the 15th. But the streams he -charts on this course, below the forks, are not more easily disposed -of than was the "East" r. 2. Thus, on the same side as "East" r., -about halfway from this to the forks, he lays down two small streams -from the W., the lower of which he names Light cr. There are in fact -several such; and it may be reasonable to assume that by Light cr. -Pike means the largest of them. This is the one now called Gallinipper -cr., which falls in a mile below Osceola, and which is now meandered -for a few miles by both the Kansas City, Clinton, and Springfield R. -R., and the Kas. Cy. and Southern R. R. 3. After rounding the bend -above described, and passing the Bear cr. there said, Pike passes two -creeks on his left, from the S., one of which he charts by the name of -Lime r. This probably answers to the stream now called Wablo, or -Weablo, or Weaubleau cr. The other one of the two is Brushy cr. But -the identification of Lime r. with Weaubleau cr., and of Light with -Gallinipper, throws both out of relative position, and introduces a -difficulty which can only be done away with by supposing an error of -the map. 4. Osceola is the seat of St. Clair Co., on the left hand -going up river, 3 or 4 m. below the mouth of Sac r. This village is -notable as a point up to which steamboats used to come, especially -during our Civil War; it was burned in Sept., 1861, by "Jim" Lane -(James Henry Lane, b. Lawrenceburg, Ind., June 22d, 1814, committed -suicide at Leavenworth, Kas., July, 1866); pop. lately 331. 5. Two of -the little crosses which usually mark Pike's camps are superfluous for -the 14th-16th. One I cannot account for; the other evidently marks the -spot where Bel Oiseau was killed, as there is the legend "Beloiseau -Kill'd." Pike usually calls him Belle Oiseau; but the French noun is -of the same gender as the Indian himself. He was also known as -Beautiful Bird. 6. The Sac is about as large as the Osage at their -confluence; it runs on an average due N. course from Lawrence, through -Dade and Cedar, into St. Clair Co. We are told by the old pioneer -"Jack" Beard that the river was so called because a party of Sacs -(probably of the Missouri River band) camped on it about 1820; in the -fall of 1861 Sterling Price's rebel army were on this river for -several weeks. 7. Camp is set on the left bank or right hand of the -Osage, above Salt cr., right, and just below the mouth of the stream -from the N. called Mine r. in the text, but lettered "Mire Cr." on the -map. This is the Little Monegan, Monegau, or Monegaw cr.; the place -called Monegaw Springs is in the vicinity. (The name may be preferably -_Monega_, Osage word for "wolf.") - -[I-41] Legended "Chouteau's" on the map, where the cross x -also does duty for to-night's camp, two miles higher up. The spot can -be identified by the coal bank and shoal mentioned, though the "411/2" -m. assigned for the day's journey take us beyond the confluence of the -Little Osage, and we see by tomorrow's itinerary that we are still -half a day's sail short of that point. Pierre Chouteau's place was -known in Spanish records as Fort Carondelet, and was built about 1790 -at what is now called Halley's Bluff named for Col. Anselm Halley. It -was an actual fortification with mounted swivels, which Lieut. -Wilkinson speaks of in his Report (given beyond); but it was only -maintained for a few years. The post is twice noticed in the Hist. of -Vernon Co., 1887, by R. I. Holcombe, who informs me that he went over -the ground, including Blue Mound, Timbered Hill, and other places in -the vicinity, and that some old caches in the sandstone may still be -seen. 1. In the course of to-day's voyage the map shows a large -stream, unnamed, falling in from the N., on the right-hand or left -bank. This is evidently intended for Big Monegan or Monegaw cr.; place -called Dollie at its mouth. 2. Higher up, on the other side, another -nameless cr. is charted, from the S. This is Beshaw, better called -Clear, cr.; quite large, coming from Barton, through Vernon, past the -N. W. corner of Cedar, into St. Clair Co. 3. Above this, Pike has two -traces, both from the N., unnamed. One of these doubtless represents -Panther or Painter cr., in Bates Co. Here the Mo., Kan. and Tex. R. -R., a branch of the Mo. Pac. R. R., crosses the Osage between -Rockville on the N. and Schell City on the S. of that river. These -places are 4 m. apart. A mile or two below this crossing the Osage now -forms a circle circumscribing a large round island, nearly a mile in -diameter, which may have been a bend in Pike's time. Several smaller -streams than those just named fall into the Osage on either side, in -the course of a few miles, as Miller, McKenzie, Shaw, Willow, and -Lady's. The "10 French houses" Pike speaks of were opp. the mouth of -Lady's cr. (named for one Wm. Lady). Camp was on the N. W. side of the -Osage, near Lady's cr., and thus in the vicinity of Papinsville (old -Harmony Mission). - -[I-42] A most important point in this itinerary, for here is the -junction of the Little Osage with the main stream, which latter Pike -now leaves to proceed up the former to the villages, and so on into -Kansas, etc. He elsewhere says: "The three branches of the [Osage] -river, viz.: the large east fork [_i. e._, Sac r., lying E. of where -he now is], the middle one up which we ascended [_i. e._, Little -Osage], and the northern one [_i. e._, main Osage]." The present -confluence is at the point where Bates and Vernon cos. begin or cease -to be separated by the meanders of the Osage; for the Little Osage -runs in Vernon Co., and the main Osage, above the confluence, runs in -Bates. There is a conspicuous mound in the prairie, a short distance -S. of this "second fork," giving name to Blue Mound township. Both -forks head beyond (W. of) the Missouri State line, in Kansas, in which -State the main Osage r. bears the name of Marais des Cygnes. The -"large drift" in the Little Osage which stopped the boats is marked -and so legended on the map, a short distance above the forks. It seems -to have been above the mouth of Muddy cr., which falls in from the N. -within 2 m. of the forks, and was probably about the place where there -is now some marshy ground on the W. side, opposite Horseshoe l. The -latter is a mile long around the curve, and discharges by a short -stream into the Little Osage, from the S., between the forks and the -mouth of Muddy cr. Doubtless it was once the bed of the river. Close -by this lake, an eastward bend of the Little Osage receives a creek -from the S.; and beyond this was the Grand Osage village, close to -which Pike established what he calls Camp Independence, on the E. side -of the river, near the confluence of Marmiton or Marmaton r. This -stream falls in from the S., and is rather larger than the Little -Osage; in fact, it forms with the latter the main forks. The Marmiton -receives Drywood cr. a few miles above its confluence with the little -Osage. The name of this river is apparently the F. word _marmiton_, -scullion, from _marmite_, pot or kettle; the settlers pronounce it -"Mommytaw." For other features of the locality we may note that the -river bottoms are here below the 75-foot contour line, which -represents the general level of the surrounding prairie; and that -there is an isolated mound or butte of 850 feet or more on the E. side -of the Marmiton and close to this river, at the first bend it makes -eastward. The Marmiton is otherwise notable in the present connection, -as Pike's further route goes between it and the Little Osage. - -[I-43] A letter received from General Wilkinson by this express formed -Doc. No. 9 of the App. to Part 2. - -[I-44] Joseph Browne, who in 1806 was first Justice of the Court of -Common Pleas in and for the District of St. Louis, appointed by -Governor and General Wilkinson Tuesday, Mar. 18th, 1806; in 1807 he -was Territorial secretary, and sometimes acting governor. He was -succeeded by Frederick Bates, appointed secretary by Jefferson, May -7th, 1807: see L. and C., p. 1236. The "Babtiste Larme" of the above -paragraph is elsewhere called by Pike "Mr. Baptist Duchouquette alias -Larme." Billon's Annals of St. Louis for 1764-1804, pub. 1886, p. 437, -has "Jno. B. Duchouquette, usually called Batiste Lami." Among the -signers of a paper relating to the erection of a Roman Catholic church -in St. Louis, Oct. 30th, 1819, is found "Batiste [Symbol: X] -Duchouquete" (his mark). The alias occurs in various forms, as Lamie, -Lamy, Lamme, etc. J. B. D. was son of Francois Lafleur Duchouquette -and Celeste Barrois; b. about 1760, d. May, 1834; married Marie -Brazeau, St. Louis, 1798. - -[I-45] The village of the Little Osage Indians was about 6 m. higher -up and on the other (west) side of the river of the same name. -Marmiton r. falls in between where the two villages were. These were -so well-known to the traders and others in Pike's time that he does -not take the trouble to say exactly where they were; nor are we -favored with the precise location of Camp Independence, "near the edge -of the prairie." But there is of course no question of the exact site -of a village which stood for more than a century: see for example -Holcombe's Hist. Vernon Co. Hundreds of Osages were buried on the -mound, to which their descendents used to come from Kansas to cry over -them, as late at least as 1874. Among the remains rested those of old -White Hair himself, until his bones were dug up and carried off by -Judge C. H. Allen of Missouri. In the vicinity of the upper village is -now a place called Arthur, where the Lexington and Southern Div. of -the Mo. Pac. R. R. comes south from Rich Hill, Bates Co., and -continues across both Little Osage and Marmiton rivers; a mile W. of -its crossing of the former, on the S. of that river, is the present -hamlet called Little Osage. All Pike's positions of Aug. 18th-Sept. -1st are in the present Osage township. - -[I-46] This census of the Grand Osage village was contained in a -letter which in the orig. ed. formed Doc. No. 12 of the App. to Pt. 2, -being a folded table opp. p. 52, with a tabular "recapitulation" on p. -53. The matter is given beyond. - -[I-47] Three letters from Pike to Wilkinson which went by this express -formed Docs. Nos. 10, 11, 12 of App. to Pt. 2. One of them is dated -from "Camp Independence," by which we learn the name Pike gave his -station: see beyond. - -[I-48] So far as the white men are concerned, the party is identical -with that which left Belle Fontaine (see the roster, pp. 358-360), -excepting Kennerman, deserted, which reduced the privates from 16 to -15, and further excepting the additional interpreter, one Noel alias -Maugraine. (Mr. George Henry, who is left here, was engaged after the -start, and therefore does not affect this count.) - -[I-49] By "Grand Osage fork" Pike means the stream on which was the -Grand Osage village, _i. e._, Little Osage r. By "fork of the Little -Osage" his actual implication is Marmiton r., near which was the -Little Osage village--though the phrase happens to be verbally -applicable, as the Marmiton is the fork of the Little Osage r. Pike's -course "N. 80 deg. W." at the start would seem to conflict with the -dot-line on his map; but this is simply due to faulty projection of -the streams: see next note. Observe also that the course of Sept. 1st -is simply a swing-around to the mouth of the Marmiton, whence Pike -revisits the Grand Osage village. There is no camp-mark for this day; -the first [Symbol: +] set is camp of the expedition of Sept. 2d, -before Pike had rejoined his party. - -[I-50] Which the party had made on the 3d before Pike joined them. -Their camp of the 2d is the first one marked on the map, and this of -the 3d is the second one so marked. This we know from the position -marked for the 6th, just over the divide, and three camps ahead of -this of the 3d. Pike is now first fairly en route. The faulty -projection of his map makes him seem to go E. of S. till the 6th, and -then turn W. abruptly. The course of the Little Osage is practically -from W. to E., and Pike ascends it the whole way, having it at a -considerable distance to his right. His trail is over the prairie -between the Little Osage and Marmiton rivers. This is to be -particularly noted, as some have vaguely supposed Pike "followed up -the Osage river," _i. e._, the main Osage (Pike's "North fork"), and -then wondered how he came where we presently find him. In fact, he -goes almost due W. from Missouri over into Kansas. Camp of the 3d was -in the vicinity of the present town of Little Osage. Gregg's map, on -which Pike's trail is traced for the most part with all the accuracy -that the small scale allows, starts him into Kansas too far S.--a good -way S. of Fort Scott, which is correctly located on the Marmiton. - -[I-51] Misleading, at first sight; but "Grand river" here means that -stream on which was the Grand Osage village. Pike and Robinson simply -took an excursion of 6 m. to the Little Osage and back to camp, -supposed to be 13 m. from that of the 3d. It was considerably past -Rinehart, and probably in the vicinity of Hoover, a place 2 m. E. of -the inter-State line; or perhaps just over this boundary, which here -runs on a meridian of longitude (about 94 deg. 37'). This vicinity is -notable as the scene of the raid of old John Brown in Dec., 1859, when -this extraordinary compound of saint and sinner, whose prophetic -visions of the coming struggle had startling distinctness, killed a -man and stole some negroes and horses. Pike has entered or will -immediately enter the N. E. portion of Bourbon Co., Kas., in the -vicinity of places called Hammond, Fulton, and Barnesville. The two -former of these are on the Kansas City, Fort Scott, and Gulf R. R. I -suppose Pike to be about 10 m. N. N. E. of Fort Scott, the county seat -of Bourbon. This is a well-known city, on Marmiton r., at the point -where Mill cr. falls in. Its military name is a legacy from former -days, the fort having been built in 1842; pop. now about 12,000. - -From the present station we have to trail Pike clear across Kansas to -a point on the Republican Fork of the Kansas r., just over the middle -of the northern boundary of the State. This is not easy. It would be -impossible to do so with precision, had we only the slender thread of -text to guide us. His Indians took him a roundabout way by the Smoky -Hill r. The whole country is flat, with a complicated river-system; -Pike cuts through it, incessantly _crossing_ creeks and rivers, not -one of which does he follow for any considerable distance after he -leaves the Osage basin. The names of the many small towns and -stations, as well as of the small streams, will be recognized by few -non-residents. Fortunately we have the trace dotted on his map, and -though this is far out of drawing for absolute geography, its relative -positions are recognizable for the most part. I am satisfied that the -course I lay down for Pike is true to his route in all its main -features. The whole of this Kansan route would be in the Missourian -watershed, were it not for the northward extension of the Arkansan -basin in the drainage of the Neosho and Vermilion rivers. This Pike -enters as soon as he leaves the Osage basin, crosses, and quits before -reaching the Smoky Hill: see the two places legended "Dividing Ridge," -etc., on his map. If we suppose, what I see no reason to question, -that his camp-marks are all right, his marches of Sept. 5th to 17th -may be summarized as follows: Sept. 5th, further up Little Osage r.; -6th, over divide to Arkansan waters of the Neosho r.; 7th, approaching -the Neosho; 8th, across this river; 9th, further along S. of it; 10th, -across subdivide of Vermilion river basin; 11th, heading this river, -and across subdivide into Neosho basin again; 12th, across Cottonwood -fork of the Neosho; 14th, further along this fork; 15th, across divide -from these Arkansan to Missourian waters again; 16th, nearing Smoky -Hill r.; 17th, across this river. (Total distance from the Osage -villages about 210 m., by Pike's mileages of Sept. 1st-17th about 250 -m.) The counties crossed are Bourbon, Allen, Woodson, Coffey, Lyon, -Chase, Marion, Dickinson, and Saline. Further details in following -notes. - -[I-52] The whole of this way is W. up along the S. side of the Little -Osage, for the most part at a considerable distance from the river, -which here has a northward convexity. But for some miles after leaving -Camp Independence, Pike must have kept pretty close to the south side -of the Little Osage, to avoid the unnumbered mounds into which the -country further to his left is broken. The hill to which Pike came in -the forenoon represents a rise from the general 750-foot level -hitherto traveled to about 1,100 feet. From its southern slopes, Mill -and Wolverine creeks gather to flow into the Marmiton at and near Fort -Scott; while from the other side some small runs seek the Little -Osage. Camp is in Bourbon Co., somewhere in the vicinity of Xenia, -Zenia, or Hay, a small place near a branch of the Little Osage. - -[I-53] Pike does not mean that the Arkansaw r. itself is otherwise -called White r., but the waters of the Arkansaw River basin he has -reached are those of a river called the White, which is perfectly -true. He elsewhere calls this Grand r. He also discusses whether this -White r. be a tributary of the Arkansaw or of the Mississippi, and -comes to the latter erroneous conclusion. This White or Grand r. of -Pike is the Neosho; a large stream which waters much of southeastern -Kansas, leaves the State in Cherokee Co., enters Indian Territory, and -falls into the Arkansaw on the boundary between the Cherokees' and the -Creeks' country. Its general course is S. E., then S. Pike lays it -down pretty well on his map, by the name of Grand r., and I find it so -charted on various modern maps. Pike runs it into the Arkansaw all -right, and makes its Cottonwood fork the main stream, out of all -proportion to the little creek he traces for the other fork; but there -is not much difference in the two streams, which unite in Lyon Co. -some 8 m. below Emporia. From the vicinity of Xenia, in Bourbon Co., -Pike has to-day continued about W., by or near the station Bayard of -the Mo., Kas., and Tex. R. R., in Allen Co. Having thus headed all -Osage (Missourian) waters, he strikes and crosses the divide, and -camps on the head of a small tributary of Elm cr., a branch of the -Neosho (Arkansan waters). I suppose his camp to be at a point about -equidistant from Bayard and two other places called respectively La -Harpe and Wise--perhaps rather Bayard, La Harpe, and Morantown. - -[I-54] The two streams concerned in Pike's approach to the Neosho are -Elm and Deer creeks. Elm is the large forked one which falls in close -below Iola, county seat of Allen. Deer cr. is the next above, falling -in about 4 m. above Elm cr. Pike's map indicates that, after passing -some insignificant heads of Elm cr., he got into its forks, then -crossed its north branch near Iola, and camped on Deer cr., very near -the junction of this with the Neosho. I do not know whether horses can -swim in Deer cr.; if not, the only alternative stream would be the -Neosho itself. But the map sets Pike on the east branch of Deer cr., -and there I leave him. - -[I-55] The Neosho, Neozho, or Neocho r. "A grand fork of the White -river" is ambiguous; but becomes intelligible if we remember that he -has just spoken of the "Arkansaw, alias White river." Pike's ideas of -what he calls "White" and "Grand" r. were not clear. There is no -stream in his present vicinity large enough to be dignified as the -"grand fork" of the Neosho itself; we must understand him to mean the -Neosho, as being itself a grand fork of whatever he meant by "White" -r. The Neosho was long and often called Grand r.; "Neosho or Grand R." -is lettered on Gregg's map. Pike never says where he crossed the -Neosho, nor in fact does he inform us that he ever crossed it--unless -it was when he swam his horses. But that was on the 7th. However these -uncertainties be regarded, two facts are certain: Pike was across the -Neosho on the 8th, and he crossed it between Iola and the town of -Neosho Falls, Woodson Co. I think the crossing was a little above the -mouth of Deer cr. - -[I-56] West for a few miles, then about northwest, up along the -Neosho, but at several miles' distance from that river, on the dry -prairie, and passing from Woodson into Coffey Co. As to the "second -branch" on which is camp: Pike charts three streams passed to-day, -running to his right into the Neosho, and marks his camp on the third -one of these. I take these to be Turkey, South Big, and North Big -creeks; and suppose that Pike camped on the last of these. It is true -that these all three unite in one before falling into the Neosho; but -Pike passed them too high up to observe their connections. Turkey cr. -is practically a separate one, as it falls into Big cr. only about -one-quarter of a mile above the mouth of it; and the connection of -North and South creeks, much higher up, may be implied in his speaking -of the "second branch" on which was camp (Turkey cr. then answering to -a first branch). The single mouth of the three streams here in mention -falls into the Neosho about 2 m. west of Leroy. If it seems rather a -stretch to get Pike some distance up North Big cr. to-day, it may be -remembered that the place he crossed the Neosho was not determined -with precision; and that we have to find him to-morrow, at 11 miles' -distance, on a large creek up which he can go over the divide to the -heads of Verdigris r. There seems to be no alternative. - -[I-57] The total of 12 m. does not agree with the text, which calls -for 11 + 41/2 = 151/2. Eagle cr. seems to have been struck about on the -boundary between Coffey and Lyon cos., where Four Mile cr. falls into -it. It is a considerable stream, which heads in the divide about Olpe -(a place on the A. T. and S. Fe R. R.), is increased by Harper, -Hoosier, and other tributaries, and runs E. into the Neosho a mile and -a half above Strawn (a place on the Mo. Pac. R. R.). To reach Eagle -cr. from North Big cr. Pike passed opposite Burlington, seat of Coffey -Co., several miles to his right, and headed the small Otter cr., on or -near which is a place called Patmos. - -[I-58] It may not be possible to decide which of the several branches -of Eagle cr. Pike went up to the divide. To send him up the main -branch, past Olpe, agrees best with his 21 m. to-day; but in that case -he must have breakfasted late. There is a sharp elbow in his dotted -trail, which would seem to indicate that he made a turn from his -former course over the divide. Aside from any questions of detail, -which perhaps could not be decided even by a resident of the region -traversed, we have Pike safe on the headwaters of Vermilion or -Verdigris r. (it has these alternative names on recent maps). It heads -in the divide which Pike has crossed, by numerous small tributaries, -several of which Pike charts. Among them are Haldemand and Tate, -heading opposite branches of Eagle cr., and further on Moon, Rock, -Fawn, and Camp creeks. The Verdigris is of a size smaller than the -Neosho, W. of which it runs in an approximately parallel course; it -leaves Kansas through Montgomery Co., enters Indian Territory, and in -the country of the Creek Indians falls into the Arkansaw 8 m. above -the mouth of the Neosho. Pike lays it down well, especially the -fan-shaped leash of branches in which it heads, but runs it into the -Arkansaw in common with the Neosho. The Verdigris has of course its -proper basin or drainage within the more general watershed of the -Neosho and other Arkansan as distinguished from Missourian waters. The -rim of this basin is the divide Pike crosses over to-day. He camps on -one of the small headwaters, probably Fawn or Camp cr., in the close -vicinity of the places called Elco and Verdigris. - -[I-59] Pike has headed Verdigris r., and recrossed the brim of its -basin into the Neosho basin again. In cutting off this small segment -of the Verdigris basin he passed from Lyon into Chase Co., "over high -hilly prairies," _i. e._, the divide, and continued westward till he -struck "a large branch of Grand r." We discover later that Pike takes -Cottonwood r. to be the main Grand, _i. e._, Neosho r., which I do not -see that it is not, though the other one retains the name of Neosho -above their confluence. The stream he strikes is the S. fork of -Cottonwood r. This heads in the same hilly country, by tributaries -known as Little Cedar, Thurman, and Mercer creeks, in relation or -opposition to the uttermost sources of Verdigris r., and flows N. to -fall into the main Cottonwood 4 m. below Cottonwood Falls, county seat -of Chase. Pike probably came on this stream somewhere in the vicinity -of Baker or Crocker cr., between places called Matfield Green and -Bazar. - -Cottonwood "creek" was originally so named at the point where it was -struck on the old Santa Fe caravan road, and because it showed the -first trees of that kind to be found in traveling westward on that -route. The crossing was at or near present town of Durham, Marion Co. -It was some time before the true connection of the Cottonwood with the -Neosho was made out. At Council Grove the traders knew they were on a -head of the Neosho or Grand r., though they called it Council Grove -cr. They kept on W. to "Diamond springs" (on a head of Six Mile or -present Diamond cr.), and thence to "Lost spring" on their "Willow" -cr. (a head of present Clear cr., which falls into the Cottonwood at -Marion); the next stream they struck being this Cottonwood cr., at or -near Durham: see a note beyond, where I undertake, perhaps rashly, to -recover the old caravan road in terms of modern geography. - -[I-60] If Pike bore as much N. of W. as his dotted trail seems to -indicate, the mileage would fetch him on Cottonwood r. about the -situation of Cedar Grove and Cedar Point, which are within a mile or -two of each other and of the boundary between Chase and Marion cos., -and about 6 m. down river from Florence, Marion Co. He is evidently in -the loop which the Cottonwood makes S. E. from Marion to Florence, and -then gradually N. E. to the vicinity of Cottonwood Falls. If the old -Kansas Indian trail the map lays down could be recovered or -identified, it would serve to locate him still more precisely. He -crosses the Cottonwood and camps on its left bank. If we attentively -regard the camp-marks of the 12th and 13th, we find them close -together, N. of the Cottonwood, S. of a creek flowing E., and W. of a -pair of creeks flowing S. These requirements are fulfilled, if we take -the one running E. to be Middle creek, which falls in by Elmdale, 10 -m. below Cedar Grove; and the other two, those that fall in together -at Marion, 12 m. (direct) above Cedar Grove. It is true there are -several creeks nearer, on the same side, as Silver, Bruno, and Martin, -but these are all smaller than such as Pike usually charts, and, -moreover, he could not go his 9 m. to-morrow in any direction without -getting beyond them. - -[I-61] Camp in the close vicinity of Marion, seat of the county of -that name. The Indian trail seems to have run past or through Marion. -We can confidently locate Pike within 3 m. of the town on the night of -the 13th; and Marion thus furnishes an excellent fixed point whence to -trace him on to Smoky Hill r. The two streams which unite at Marion, -and run through the place as one, are called Brook Luta and Clear cr. - -[I-62] Continuing past Marion, up the Cottonwood, which he has to his -left, Pike camps near Durham, Marion Co. This town is on the river, -and through it runs the Chic., Kas. and Neb. R. R. The route seems to -have sheered off from the river a little to the right, more in line -with Brook Luta than with the Cottonwood itself: see next note. - -[I-63] Passing north between Cottonwood r. on his left and Brook Luta -on his right, Pike makes the divide in the vicinity of Tampa, Marion -Co. This is a village on the head of Brook Luta; the railroad last -named goes through it, and Pike crosses the line of this railroad -between Durham and Tampa. He is flanking the higher hills (1,500 feet -or more) in which the main Cottonwood heads, by leaving them to the -left or W. This is a somewhat roundabout way from the vicinity of -Durham to that of Bridgeport on the Smoky Hill, where Pike strikes -this river early on the 17th; but it is evident that he did not go -straight between these points, for they are only about 25 m. (direct) -apart, and we have to account for 18 + 13 + 6 = 37 m. on the 15th, -16th, and morning of the 17th. These mileages adjust themselves to a -nicety by the way I make out. I suppose he crossed the divide between -Tampa and Kuhnbrook, Marion Co., thus passing from Arkansan to -Missourian waters, as he says. Kuhnbrook is a little place on one of -the heads of the large Turkey cr., which runs N. into the Smoky Hill -r. opp. Abilene. Rhoades is the next place on this branch of Turkey -cr., and in passing to its vicinity Pike crosses from Marion into -Dickinson Co. He continues on, bearing to the vicinity of Elmo and -Banner. These are places near another head of Turkey cr., and both on -the Mo. Pac. R. R.; they are within a mile of each other. Pike keeps -on a piece, westerly, and sets camp in the vicinity of Carlton, -Dickinson Co. Carlton is between the two forks of Holland cr., next W. -of Turkey cr., with which Holland runs parallel to fall into the Smoky -Hill r. opp. Abilene. Carleton is 7 m. due E. of Gypsum City, which -latter is on a creek of that name Pike next strikes. - -[I-64] Pike camps on a branch of Gypsum creek. This is a large stream -which heads in close relation with the uttermost sources of Cottonwood -r., in the vicinity of Canton, McPherson Co., and flows due N. into -the Smoky Hill, between the mouths of Solomon and Saline rivers. It is -larger than either Turkey or Holland cr., and much branched. It runs -about halfway between Holland cr. and the Smoky Hill, parallel with -both; for the latter, having made a bold sweep from the W., curves N. -past Lindsburg and Bridgeport to Salina, and thence E. to receive -first the Saline, next Gypsum, and then Solomon r. On Gypsum cr. are -Chico and Gypsum City, 10 and 12 m. above its mouth; and Pike strikes -it a few miles further up or S. of these towns. Pike charts its -headwaters elaborately, and sets his camps of the 15th and 16th among -the five branches he lays down. Probably one of these should be taken -for Holland cr.; the other four are less easily identified. From his -position in the vicinity of Carlton Pike passes W. from Dickinson into -Saline Co., comes first to Hobbs cr., next upon Gypsum itself and Stag -cr., in quick succession; crossing these three he continues W. to -another branch of Gypsum cr., namely, that one now meandered by the -Mo. Pac. R. R. between Gypsum City and Bridgeport. He camps on the -latter, 6 m. E. of the Smoky Hill. - -[I-65] "We passed it six miles to a small branch to breakfast" is a -dubious phrase which I understand to mean that Pike went 6 m. to a -small branch to breakfast, and then crossed the Smoky Hill r. at -once--at nine o'clock. This crossing was in the immediate vicinity of -Bridgeport, and perhaps at the very place the Council Grove, Smoky -Valley and Western branch of the Mo. Pac. R. R. crosses to run into -Bridgeport. Two insignificant runs fall into the river from the east -within 3 m. below Bridgeport; the first of them is named Pawnee cr. -Crossing the river, Pike proceeds up it, but a little W. of N., and -bearing somewhat away from it; he passes Dry cr., which lower down -runs through the county seat Salina, and camps on Mulberry cr., 2 or 3 -m. due W. of that city, and about the same distance below the point -where Spring cr. falls into Mulberry. This stream skirts north of the -city, receives Dry cr., and falls into Saline r. a mile or two -further. Salina is a large place, one of the best known in the State, -where four great railroad lines meet--the U. P., Mo. P., A., T. and S. -F., and C., R. I. and P. Six or 8 m. due W. of the place where Pike -crossed the river are the Smoky hills, or Smoky Hill Buttes, -celebrated in story if not in song. The great river named from these -conspicuous landmarks is the main southern fork of Kansas r., as the -Republican is the northern. Its uttermost sources are in Colorado. -Receiving uncounted tributaries in its long course, it runs E. in -Kansas through Wallace, Logan, Gove, Trego, Ellis, Russell, and -Ellsworth, loops S. into McPherson and out again N. into Saline Co., -makes an elbow at Salina and continues E. through Dickinson into Geary -Co., where it joins its mate between Junction City and Fort Riley, -thus composing the Kansas. Two of its largest branches are the Saline -and Solomon. - -This finishes the first section of Pike's Kansas route from the Little -Osage to Salina. The rest of the way to the Pawnee Republic is -northward, crossing in succession Saline r., Salt cr., Solomon r., -Buffalo cr., and White Rock cr., striking the Republican r. in Webster -Co., Neb., near the S. border of that State. The distance is less than -the 97 m. Pike makes of it. His map is extremely faulty; he seems to -have gone about N. W., though his actual route was very little W. of -N. It also runs Saline and Solomon rivers far apart into the -Republican, instead of the Smoky Hill, magnifies Salt cr. out of all -proportion, and minimizes both Buffalo and White Rock cr. - -As a bit of authentic history which may interest those in Salina who -have reason to be proud of the growth of their city during one -generation, I will transcribe a passage from my own field notebook, -made when I was staging from Leavenworth to Santa Fe, in 1864: -"Sunday, May 29th. Left Junction City and came to a place called -Salina--three houses and a pig stye." - -Fort Riley, as above mentioned, was begun by Major Edmund Augustus -Ogden, who had selected the site and was occupied with the work when -he died there Aug. 3d, 1855, in the epidemic of cholera then raging. -He was born at Catskill, N. Y., Feb. 20th, 1810; removed to Unadilla, -N. Y., and from there entered West Point July 1st, 1827; he became -second lieutenant of the 1st Inf., July 1st, 1831; first lieutenant, -Dec. 17th, 1836; was transferred to the 8th Inf., July 7th, 1838; -promoted to be captain, Dec. 1st, 1839; and was breveted major for -meritorious conduct. His first duty was at Prairie du Chien; his -marriage with Captain Gustavus Loomis' daughter Eliza, at Fort -Snelling, is said to have been the first ceremony of the kind between -white persons in Minnesota; he served faithfully and with distinction -in the Black Hawk, Florida, and Mexican wars, and for many years -discharged arduous and responsible duties in the quartermaster -department. For several years immediately preceding his death he was -stationed at Fort Leavenworth. - -[I-66] Saline r., distinctively called Great or Grand Saline, has been -already noted. Pike crosses this, and proceeds to "a small dry branch" -of the next river, to camp for three days. This river is the one he -calls Little Saline, and is now known as Covert or Salt cr., a branch -of Solomon r. which falls into the Solomon 4 m. below Minneapolis, -Ottawa Co. Pike's map connects it correctly, but magnifies its size; -for the stream which he passed on returning from the Pawnee village, -and which he lays down as a head of his Little Saline, is a branch of -the Great Saline. Pike probably crossed Saline r. in the vicinity of -Culver, where the railroad now does, then soon passing from Saline -into Ottawa. The small branch of Salt cr. on which he camped was one -of several such in the vicinity of Ada. - -[I-67] An error is here evident, and I suspect some confusion of the -diary of the 21st and 22d. 1. "Distance 11 miles," for the whole 22d, -is necessarily wrong, if m. were made in the afternoon, and this, too, -after marching from eight to eleven in the forenoon. 2. Aside from the -fact that there is no branch of the Republican fork in this vicinity, -the map shows that Pike did not reach Solomon r. till the 23d, and the -text of that day confirms this. Camps of the 21st and 22d were both in -the space traversed between Salt cr. and Solomon r., less than 20 m. -at the furthest. 3. The difficulty disappears if for "12 miles," etc., -of the above questionable clause, we read "2 miles to the first branch -of Solomon river on our route." This would set Pike on one of the -small creeks that fall into the right bank of Solomon r. in the -vicinity of Glasco, Simpson, and Asherville. A former name of Solomon -r. was Nepeholla, used, _e. g._, by Gunnison, P. R. R. Rep. II. 1855, -p. 17. Capt. J. W. Gunnison came to the mouth of Solomon's fork July -6th, 1853, from Westport, Mo., by the Wakarusa River route, striking -the Kansas r. at Fort Riley, crossing there, and continuing through -Abilene; he was en route to the great bend of the Arkansaw by the -usual Smoky Hill route. - -[I-68] Taking Pike northward across Buffalo cr. I suppose this was -crossed somewhere in the vicinity of Jamestown, Republic Co. In this -position the Republican r. itself is only 5 or 6 m. to his right, and -the rest of the journey is simply following up this river obliquely on -about a N. W. course, at a somewhat increasing distance from it, until -he nears it to approach the village. - -[I-69] To White Rock cr., west of White Rock, a town on the creek and -on the boundary between Republic and Jewell cos. This stream runs east -through these, and falls into the Republican r. opposite Republic -City. In getting here, Pike seems by his map to have crossed several -small streams _running to his left_, and into a stream he runs into -Solomon r. I suppose these to be some branches of Marsh cr., a -sluggish tributary of Buffalo cr. from the N. W. - -[I-70] Finishing the journey to the Pawnee Republic village, whence -the great river on which it was situated took its name. Its ultimate -sources are in Colorado, like those of the Smoky Hill r. Its main -course then cuts off the extreme N. W. corner of Kansas, by running -through Cheyenne Co.; whereupon the stream enters Nebraska, and skirts -the southern border of this until it dips into Kansas across the N. -border of Jewell Co., whence it continues E. into Republic Co., turns -S. in this to Cloud Co., E. through this to Clay Co., and S. E. -through this to Geary Co., where it is joined by the Smoky Hill, as -already noted. The whole journey thus made from the Osages to the -Pawnees foots up, by Pike's distances, about 350 m. In a letter to the -Secretary of War he calls it "375"; but this is simply offhand. He -also claims that his Osages led him roundabout 100 m. through their -fear of the "Kans." Pike's land mileages seem to me more correct than -those excessive ones he assigns to his navigation. I suppose this -journey to have been between 300 and 325 m. - -I must emphasize here the fact that I have failed in every attempt to -locate the precise site of the Pawnee village. One would suppose it -well known; I find that it is not, and have yet to discover the -ethnographer or geographer who can point it out. Correspondence -addressed to persons now living in the vicinity was as fruitless as my -exploration of the sources of official knowledge in Washington, where -several friends interested themselves in my behalf to no purpose. I -know of no closer indication than that afforded by Gregg's map of -1844. This letters "Old Pawnee Village" on the S. bank of the -Republican, halfway between long. 98 deg. and 99 deg. W., and thus, as I -judge, about opposite the present town of Red Cloud, Webster Co., Neb. -Gregg runs the Republican entirely S. of lat. 40 deg. N., _i. e._, in -Kansas; but the place where Pike struck it was certainly in that -portion of its course which runs in Nebraska, just over the Kansas -line. Gregg in fact gives his river a recognizable northward convexity -along here, and if it does not overreach 40 deg., that is a fault of -absolute, not relative, position. We are here much less concerned with -latitude than with longitude. The river is running approximately from -W. to E., in Webster Co., and the main point is how far W. the village -was, as that would affect details of the route from the last point at -which I have been able to locate Pike. It will be necessary to -discover the exact situation of the Pawnee village before the cloud -over the end of this journey can be dispelled, and the beginning of -the journey from the village to Great Bend on the Arkansaw can be set -in a clear light. For the present I can only tentatively assume -longitude 98 deg. 30' W. (See Scandia, in the Index.) - -[I-71] Guillaume Thomas Francois Raynal, commonly called Abbe Raynal, -b. Aveyron, France, Apr. 12th, 1713, d. Paris, Mar. 6th, 1796--a -philosophical free-thinker and historian, who wrote too much sense and -truth to suit his official superiors, and was consequently unfrocked. -It is a curious fact in the history of the most Tammany-like machine -for the propagation of painful superstitions ever known in the Western -world--excepting perhaps Brigham Young's similarly organized -scheme--that whenever one of its members begins to think for himself -they make him take off his gown and wear trousers openly. The irony in -the case seems to escape the professional nurserymen in that -hot-house. The abbe wrote various works; his most celebrated one, to -which Pike refers, is: Histoire Philosophique et Politique des -Etablissements et du Commerce des Europeens dans les Deux Indes, 1770, -repub. 1780-85--a book whose strength and other merits may be inferred -from the fact that it had the honor of being burned by Parliamentary -order; though its author was simply exiled, the times being already a -little out of joint for roasting heretics along with their heresies. - -[I-72] Richard Sparks of Pennsylvania had been a captain in the levies -of 1791, when he was appointed a captain of infantry, March 7th, 1792; -he was arranged to the 3d Sub-legion, Sept. 4th, 1792, to the 3d -Infantry, Nov. 1st, 1796, and transferred to the 2d Infantry Apr. 1st, -1802; he became major July 29th, 1806, lieutenant-colonel Dec. 9th, -1807, and colonel July 6th, 1812; he was honorably discharged June -15th, 1815, and died July 1st, 1815. - -[I-73] 1. As already indicated, "Tetaus" and "Tetans" are Pike's names -for Comanches, also variously known as Ietans, Jetans, Hietans, -Aiatans, etc., and also by the Sioux name Padoucas, adopted by the -French; they called themselves Num, meaning simply "people." Some of -their other names are Kaumains, Choumans and Comandes; we now write -Comanches or Camanches indifferently, thus adopting a form of the -Spanish name, whose meaning is unknown. These Indians are of the -Shoshonean family; they number about 150, on the Kiowa, Comanche, and -Wichita Reservation in Oklahoma; there were some 2,500 when they were -placed in a reservation in 1868; they had been noted, time out of -mind, as wide-ranging, lawless, and warlike freebooters. 2. Pike above -mentions three of the four principal tribes of the Pawnee -confederation, _i. e._, of the middle group of Caddoan stock, who are: -(1) Pawnee proper, Grand Pawnee, or Tcawi; (2) Pawnee Republicans or -Republican Pawnees (giving name to the great branch of the Kansas r.); -(3) Pawnee Loups, Pawnee Mahas, Pawnee Wolves, or Skidis; (4) Tapage -or Pitahauerat: see further, L. and C., ed. 1893, pp. 55-57. (3) -Pike's Kans are entirely different Indians, of Siouan stock, Dhegiha -group: for these see _l. c._, pp. 33, 34. - - - - -CHAPTER II. - -ITINERARY, CONTINUED: FROM THE PAWNEE VILLAGE THROUGH KANSAS AND -COLORADO TO PIKE'S PEAK, OCT. 1ST-NOV. 30TH, 1806. - - -Wednesday, Oct. 1st. Paid a visit to town and had a very long -conversation with the chief, who urged everything in his power to -induce us to turn back. Finally, he very candidly told us that the -Spaniards wished to have gone further into our country, but he induced -them to give up the idea; that they had listened to him and he wished -us to do the same; that he had promised the Spaniards to act as he now -did, and that we must proceed no further, or he must stop us by force -of arms. My reply was, "that I had been sent out by our great father -to explore the western country, to visit all his red children, to make -peace between them, and turn them from shedding blood; that he might -see how I had caused the Osage and Kans to meet to smoke the pipe of -peace together, and take each other by the hand like brothers; that as -yet my road had been smooth, with a blue sky over our heads. I had not -seen any blood in our path; but he must know that the young warriors -of his great American father were not women, to be turned back by -words; that I should therefore proceed, and if he thought proper to -stop me, he could attempt it; but we were men, well armed, and would -sell our lives at a dear rate to his nation; that we knew our great -father would send his young warriors there to gather our bones and -revenge our deaths on his people, when our spirits would rejoice in -hearing our exploits sung in the war-songs of our chiefs." I then left -his lodge and returned to camp, in considerable perturbation of mind. - -_Oct. 2d._ We received advice from our Kans that the chief had given -publicity to his idea of stopping us by force of arms, which gave -serious reflections to me, and was productive of many singular -expressions from my brave lads, which called for my esteem at the same -time that they excited my laughter. Attempted to trade for horses, but -could not succeed. In the night we were alarmed by some savages coming -near our camp at full speed; but they retreated equally rapidly, on -being hailed with fierceness by our sentinels. This created some -degree of indignation in my little band, as we had noticed that all -the day had passed without any traders presenting themselves, which -appeared as if all intercourse was interdicted. I wrote to the -secretary at war, the general, etc. - -_Oct. 3d._ The intercourse again commenced. Traded for some horses, -and wrote for my express. - -_Oct. 4th._ Two French traders arrived at the village in order to -procure horses to transport their goods from the Missouri to the -village. They gave us information that Captains Lewis and Clark,[II-1] -with all their people, had descended the river to St. Louis; this -diffused general joy through our party. Our trade for horses advanced -none this day. - -_Sunday, Oct. 5th._ Buying horses. Preparing to march, and finishing -my letters. - -_Oct. 6th._ Marched my express.[II-2] Purchasing horses and preparing -to march on the morrow. - -_Oct. 7th._ In the morning we found two of our newly purchased horses -missing. Sent in search of them; the Indians brought in one pretty -early. Struck our tents and commenced loading our horses. Finding -there was no probability of our obtaining the other lost one, we -marched at 2 p. m.; and as the chief had threatened to stop us by -force of arms, we made every arrangement to make him pay as dearly for -the attempt as possible. The party was kept compact, and marched by a -road round the village, in order that, if attacked, the savages would -not have their houses to fly to for cover. I had given orders not to -fire until within five or six paces, and then to charge with the -bayonet and saber, when I believe it would have cost them at least 100 -men to have exterminated us, which would have been necessary. The -village appeared all to be in motion. I galloped up to the lodge of -the chief, attended by my interpreter and one soldier, but soon saw -there was no serious attempt to be made, although many young men were -walking about with their bows, arrows, guns, and lances. After -speaking to the chief with apparent indifference, I told him that I -calculated on his justice in obtaining the horse, and that I should -leave a man until the next day at twelve o'clock to bring him out. We -then joined the party and pursued our route. - -When I was once on the summit of the hill which overlooks the village, -I felt my mind relieved from a heavy burden; yet all the evil I wished -the Pawnees was that I might be the instrument, in the hands of our -government, to open their ears and eyes with a strong hand, to -convince them of our power. - -Our party now consisted of two officers, one doctor, 18 soldiers, one -interpreter, three Osage men, and one woman, making 25 warriors. We -marched out and encamped on a small branch [of Rock creek], distant -seven miles, on the same route we came in.[II-3] Rain in the night. - -_Oct. 8th._ I conceived it best to send Baroney back to the village -with a present, to be offered for our horse, the chief having -suggested the propriety of this measure; he met his son and the horse -with Sparks. Marched at ten o'clock, and at four o'clock came to the -place where the Spanish troops encamped the first night they left the -Pawnee village. Their encampment was circular, having only small fires -round the circle to cook by. We counted 59 fires; now if we allow six -men to each fire, they must have been 354 in number.[II-4] We encamped -on a large branch of the second [Solomon's] fork of the Kans river. -Distance 18 miles.[II-5] - -_Oct. 9th._ Marched at eight o'clock, being detained until that time -by our horses being at a great distance. At eleven o'clock we found -the forks of the Spanish and Pawnee roads, and when we halted at -twelve o'clock, we were overtaken by the second chief, Iskatappe, and -the American chief with one-third of the village. They presented us -with a piece of bear-meat. - -When we were about to march, we discovered that the dirk of the doctor -had been stolen from behind the saddle. After marching the men, the -doctor and myself, with the interpreter, went to the chief and -demanded that he should cause a search to be made; it was done, but -when the dirk was found, the possessor asserted that he had found it -on the road. I told him that he did not speak the truth, and informed -the chief that we never suffered a thing of ever so little value to be -taken without liberty. At this time the prairie was covered with his -men, who began to encircle us around, and Lieutenant Wilkinson with -the troops had gained half a mile on the road. The Indian demanded a -knife before he would give it up; but as we refused to give any, the -chief took one from his belt and gave him, took the dirk and presented -it to the doctor, who immediately returned it to the chief as a -present, desired Baroney to inform him he now saw it was not the value -of the article but the act we despised, and then galloped off. - -In about a mile we discovered a herd of elk, which we pursued; they -took back in sight of the Pawnees, who immediately mounted 50 or 60 -young men and joined in the pursuit. Then, for the first time in my -life, I saw animals slaughtered by the true savages with their -original weapons, bows and arrows; they buried the arrow up to the -plume in the animal. We took a piece of meat and pursued our party; we -overtook them and encamped within the Grand or Solomon Fork, which we -had crossed lower down on the 23d of September, on our route to the -Pawnees. This was the Spanish encamping ground. Distance 18 -miles.[II-6] - -In the evening two Pawnees came to our camp, who had not eaten for -three days, two of which they had carried a sick companion whom they -had left this day; we gave them for supper some meat and corn, and -they immediately departed in order to carry their sick companion this -seasonable supply. When they were coming into camp, the sentinel -challenged, it being dark; they immediately, on seeing him bring his -piece to the charge, supposing he was about to fire on them, advanced -to give him their hands; he, however, not well discerning their -motions, was on the point of firing; but being a cool, collected -little fellow, called out that there were two Indians advancing on -him, and asked if he should fire. This brought out the guard, when the -poor affrighted savages were brought into camp, very much alarmed, for -they had not heard of a white man's being in their country, and -thought they were entering one of the camps of their own people. - -_Oct. 10th._ Marched at seven o'clock and halted at twelve o'clock to -dine. Were overtaken by the Pawnee chief whose party we left the day -before, who informed us the hunting-party had taken another road, and -that he had come to bid us good-by. We left a large ridge on our left, -and at sundown crossed it.... [?[II-7]] From this place we had an -extensive view of the southwest; we observed a creek at a distance, to -which I meant to proceed. The doctor, interpreter, and myself arrived -at eight o'clock at night; found water and wood, but had nothing to -eat. Kindled a fire in order to guide the party; but they, not being -able to find the route and not knowing the distance, encamped on the -prairie without wood or water. - -_Oct. 11th._ Ordered Baroney to return to find the party and conduct -them to our camp. The doctor and myself went out to hunt, and on our -return found all our people had arrived, except the rear-guard, which -was in sight. Whilst we halted five Pawnees came to our camp and -brought some bones of a horse which the Spanish troops had been -obliged to eat at their encampment on this creek. We took up our line -of march at twelve o'clock, and at sundown the party halted on the -Saline. I was in pursuit of buffalo, and did not make the camp until -near ten o'clock at night. Killed one buffalo. Distance 12 -miles.[II-8] - -_Sunday, Oct. 12th._ Here Belle Oiseau and one Osage left us, and -there remained only one man and woman of that nation. Their reason for -leaving us was that our course bore too much west, and they desired to -bear more for the hunting-ground of the Osage. In the morning we sent -out to obtain the buffalo meat, and laid by until after breakfast. -Proceeded at eleven o'clock; and crossing the [Grand Saline] river two -or three times, we passed two camps where the Spanish troops had -halted. Here they appeared to have remained some days, their roads -being so much blended with the traces of the buffalo that we lost them -entirely. This was a mortifying stroke, as we had reason to calculate -that they had good guides, and were on the best route for wood and -water. We took a southwest direction, and before night were fortunate -enough to strike their roads on the left; and at dusk, much to our -surprise, struck the east [Smoky Hill] fork of the Kans, or La Touche -de la Cote Bucanieus. Killed one buffalo. Distance 18 miles.[II-9] - -_Oct. 13th._ The day being rainy, we did not march until two o'clock; -when, it having an appearance of clearing off, we raised our camp [and -crossed the Smoky Hill river]; after which we marched seven miles and -encamped on the head of a branch of the river we had left. Had to go -two miles for water. Killed one cabrie. - -_Oct. 14th._ It having drizzled rain all night, and the atmosphere -being entirely obscured, we did not march until a quarter past nine -o'clock, and commenced crossing the dividing ridge between the Kans -and Arkansaw rivers.[II-10] Arrived on a branch of the latter at one -o'clock; continued down it in search of water until after dusk, when -we found a pond on the prairie, which induced us to halt. Sparks did -not come up, being scarcely able to walk with rheumatic pains. Wounded -several buffalo, but could not get one of them. Distance 24 miles. - -_Oct. 15th._ In the morning rode out in search of the south trace, and -crossed the low prairie [Cheyenne Bottoms], which was nearly all -covered with ponds, but could not discover it. Finding Sparks did not -arrive, sent two men in search of him, who arrived with him about -eleven o'clock. At twelve o'clock we commenced our line of march, and -at five o'clock Dr. Robinson and myself left the party at a large -[Walnut[II-11]] creek, having pointed out a distant wood to -Lieutenant Wilkinson for our encampment, in order to search some -distance up it for the Spanish trace. Killed two buffalo and left part -of our clothing with them to scare away the wolves. Went in pursuit of -the party. On our arrival at the [Little Walnut] creek appointed for -the encampment, did not find them. Proceeded down it for some miles, -and not finding them, encamped, struck fire, and then supped on one of -our buffalo tongues. - -_Oct. 16th._ Early on horseback; proceeded up the [Little Walnut] -creek some distance in search of our party, but at twelve o'clock -crossed to our two buffaloes; found a great many wolves at them, -notwithstanding the precautions taken to keep them off. Cooked some -marrow-bones and again mounted our horses, and proceeded down the -creek to their junction. Finding nothing of the party, I began to be -seriously alarmed for their safety. Killed two more buffalo, made our -encampment, and feasted sumptuously on the marrow-bones. Rain in the -night. - -_Oct. 17th._ Rose early, determining to search the [Little Walnut] -creek to its source. Very hard rain, accompanied by a cold northwester -all day. Encamped near night without being able to discover any signs -of the party. Our sensations now became excruciating, not only for -their personal safety, but for fear of the failure of the national -objects intended to be accomplished by the expedition. Our own -situation was not the most agreeable, not having more than four rounds -of ammunition each, and being 400 miles in the nearest direction from -the first civilized inhabitants. We, however, concluded to search for -the party on the morrow, and if we did not succeed in finding them, to -strike the Arkansaw, where we were in hopes to discover some traces, -if not cut off by the savages. - -_Oct. 18th._ Commenced our route at a good time, and about ten o'clock -discovered two men on horseback in search of us--one my waiter. They -informed us the party was encamped on the Arkansaw, about three miles -south of where we then were; this surprised us very much, as we had no -conception of that river being so near. On our arrival we were met by -Lieutenant Wilkinson, who, with all the party, was greatly concerned -for our safety. The Arkansaw, on the party's arrival, had not water in -it six inches deep, and the stream was not more than 20 feet wide; -but the rain of the two days covered all the bottom of the river, -which in this place is 450 yards from bank to bank. These are not more -than four feet in height, bordered by a few cottonwood trees; on the -north side is a low swampy prairie; on the south, a sandy sterile -desert at a small distance. In the afternoon the doctor and myself -took our horses and crossed the Arkansaw, in order to search for some -trees which might answer the purpose to make canoes; found but one, -and returned at dusk. It commenced raining at twelve o'clock. - -_Sunday, Oct. 19th._ Finding the river rising rapidly, I thought it -best to secure our passage over [from the N. to the S. bank]; we -consequently made it good by ten o'clock. Rain all day. Preparing our -tools and arms for labor and the chase on the morrow. - -_Oct. 20th._ Commenced our labor at two trees for canoes, but one -proved too much doated.[II-12] Killed two buffalo and one cabrie. -Discharged our guns at a mark, the best shot a prize of one tent and a -pair of shoes. Our only dog was standing at the root of the tree, in -the grass; one of the balls struck him on the head and killed him. -Ceased raining about twelve o'clock. - -_Oct. 21st._ Dr. Robinson and myself mounted our horses, in order to -go down the river to the entrance of the three last creeks we had -crossed on our route; but meeting with buffalo, we killed four; also, -one cabrie. Returned to the camp and sent for the meat. - -_Oct. 22d._ Having sat up very late last evening, expecting the -sergeant and party, who did not arrive, we were very anxious for them; -but about ten o'clock Bradley arrived and informed us that they could -not find the buffalo which we had killed on the prairie. They all -arrived before noon. In the afternoon we scaffolded some meat, and -nearly completed the frame of a skin canoe, which we concluded to -build. Overhauled my instruments and made some rectifications -preparatory to taking an observation, etc. - -_Oct. 23d._ Dr. Robinson and myself, accompanied by one man, ascended -the river with an intention of searching for the Spanish trace; at the -same time we dispatched Baroney and our two hunters to kill some -buffalo, to obtain the skins for canoes. We ascended the river about -20 miles to a large branch [Pawnee fork[II-13]] on the right. Just at -dusk gave chase to a buffalo and were obliged to shoot 19 balls into -him before we killed him. Encamped on the fork [at Larned, Pawnee -Co.]. - -_Oct. 24th._ We ascended the right branch [Pawnee fork] about five -miles [old Fort Larned], but could not see any sign of the Spanish -trace; this is not surprising, as the river bears southwest, and they -no doubt kept more to the west from the head of one branch to another. -We returned and on our way killed some prairie-squirrels [_Cynomys -ludovicianus_], or wishtonwishes, and nine large rattlesnakes -[_Crotalus confluentus_], which frequent their villages. On our -arrival, found the hunters had come in a boat, one hour before, with -two buffalo and one elk skin. - -The wishtonwish of the Indians, prairie-dogs of some travelers, or -squirrels, as I should be inclined to denominate them, reside on the -prairies of Louisiana in towns or villages, having an evident police -established in their communities. The sites of their towns are -generally on the brow of a hill, near some creek or pond, in order to -be convenient to water, and that the high ground which they inhabit -may not be subject to inundation. Their residence, being under ground, -is burrowed out, and the earth, which answers the double purpose of -keeping out the water and affording an elevated place in wet seasons -to repose on, and to give them a further and more distinct view of the -country. Their holes descend in a spiral form; therefore I could never -ascertain their depth; but I once had 140 kettles of water poured into -one of them in order to drive out the occupant, without effect. In the -circuit of the villages they clear off all the grass, and leave the -earth bare of vegetation; but whether it is from an instinct they -possess inducing them to keep the ground thus cleared, or whether they -make use of the herbage as food, I cannot pretend to determine. The -latter opinion I think entitled to a preference, as their teeth -designate them to be of the graminivorous species, and I know of no -other substance which is produced in the vicinity of their positions -on which they could subsist; and they never extend their excursions -more than half a mile from the burrows. They are of a dark brown -color, except their bellies, which are white. Their tails are not so -long as those of our gray squirrels, but are shaped precisely like -theirs; their teeth, head, nails, and body are the perfect squirrel, -except that they are generally fatter than that animal. Their villages -sometimes extend over two and three miles square, in which there must -be innumerable hosts of them, as there is generally a burrow every ten -steps in which there are two or more, and you see new ones partly -excavated on all the borders of the town. We killed great numbers of -them with our rifles and found them excellent meat, after they were -exposed a night or two to the frost, by which means the rankness -acquired by their subterraneous dwelling is corrected. As you approach -their towns, you are saluted on all sides by the cry of "wishtonwish," -from which they derive their name with the Indians, uttered in a -shrill and piercing manner. You then observe them all retreating to -the entrance of their burrows, where they post themselves, and regard -every, even the slightest, movement that you make. It requires a very -nice shot with a rifle to kill them, as they must be killed dead, for -as long as life exists they continue to work into their cells. It is -extremely dangerous to pass through their towns, as they abound with -rattlesnakes, both of the yellow and black species; and strange as it -may appear, I have seen the wishtonwish, the rattlesnake, the horn -frog [_Phrynosoma douglasi_], with which the prairie abounds (termed -by the Spaniards the cammellion [camaleon, _i. e._, chameleon], from -their taking no visible sustenance), and a land-tortoise, all take -refuge in the same hole. I do not pretend to assert that it was their -common place of resort; but I have witnessed the above facts more than -in one instance.[II-14] - -_Oct. 25th._ Took an observation; passed the day in writing, and -preparing for the departure of Lieutenant Wilkinson. - -_Sunday, Oct. 26th._ Delivered out a ration of corn by way of -distinction of the Sabbath. Preparing for our departure. - -_Oct. 27th._ Delivered to Lieutenant Wilkinson letters for the -general[II-15] and our friends, with other papers, consisting of his -instructions, traverse tables of our voyage, and a draught of our -route to that place complete, in order that if we were lost, and he -arrived in safety, we might not have made the tour without some -benefit to our country. He took with him, in corn and meat, 21 days' -provisions, and all the necessary tools to build canoes or cabins. -Launched his canoes. We concluded we would separate in the morning, he -to descend [the river], and we to ascend to the mountains. - -_Oct. 28th._ As soon as possible all was in motion, my party crossing -the river to the north side, and Lieutenant Wilkinson launching his -canoes of skins and wood. We breakfasted together, and then filed off; -but I suffered my party to march, while I remained to see Lieutenant -Wilkinson sail. This he did at ten o'clock, having one skin canoe, -made of four buffalo skins and two elk skins, which held three men -besides himself and one Osage. In his wooden canoe were one soldier, -one Osage, and their baggage; one other soldier marched on -shore.[II-16] We parted with "God bless you" from both parties; they -appeared to sail very well. In the pursuit of our party, Dr. Robinson, -Baroney, one soldier, and myself, killed a brelau [blaireau, badger, -_Taxidea americana_] and a buffalo; of the latter we took only his -marrow-bones and liver. Arrived where our men had encamped, about -dusk. Distance 14 miles.[II-17] - -_Oct. 29th._ Marched after breakfast and in the first hour's march -passed two fires, where 21 Indians had recently encamped, in which -party, by their paintings on the rocks, there were seven guns. Killed -a buffalo, halted, made fire, and feasted on the choice pieces of -meat. About noon discovered two horses feeding with a herd of buffalo; -we attempted to surround them, but they soon cleared our fleetest -coursers. One appeared to be an elegant horse. These were the first -wild horses we had seen. Two or three hours before night struck the -Spanish road; and, as it was snowing, halted and encamped the party at -the first woods on the bank of the river. The doctor and myself then -forded it, the ice running very thick, in order to discover the course -the Spaniards took; but owing to the many buffalo roads, could not -ascertain it. It evidently appeared that they had halted here some -time, as the ground was covered with horse-dung for miles around. -Returned to camp. The snow fell about two inches deep, and then it -cleared up. Distance 12 miles.[II-18] - -_Oct. 30th._ In the morning sent out to kill a buffalo, to have his -marrow-bones for breakfast, which was accomplished. After breakfast -the party marched up on the north side; the doctor and myself crossed -with considerable difficulty, on account of the ice, to the Spanish -camp, where we took a large circuit in order to discover the Spanish -trace, and came in at a point of woods south of the river, where we -found our party encamped. We discovered also that the Spanish troops -had marked the river up [_i. e._, left an up-river trail], and that a -party of savages had been there not more than three days before. -Killed two buffalo. Distance 4 miles. [Opposite Garfield, Pawnee Co., -where Big Coon creek falls in.[II-19]] - -_Oct. 31st._ Fine day; marched at three quarters past nine o'clock, on -the Spanish road. Encamped, sun an hour high, after having made 16 -miles [opposite Kinsley, Edwards Co.[II-20]]. - -We observed this day a species of crystallization on the road, when -the sun was high, in low places where there had been water settled; on -tasting it found it to be salt; this gave in my mind some authenticity -to the report of the prairie being covered for leagues. Discovered the -trace of about 20 savages who had followed our road; and of horses -going down the river. Killed one buffalo, one elk, one deer. - -_Nov. 1st._ Marched early; just after commencing our line, heard a gun -on our left. The doctor, Baroney, and myself being in advance, and -lying on the ground waiting for the party, a band of cabrie came up -among our horses, to satisfy their curiosity; we could not resist the -temptation of killing two, although we had plenty of meat. At the -report of the gun they appeared astonished, and stood still until we -hallowed [hallooed] at them to drive them away. Encamped in the -evening on an island.[II-21] - -Upon using my glass to observe the adjacent country, I observed on the -prairie a herd of horses. Dr. Robinson and Baroney accompanied me to -go and view them; when within a quarter of a mile they discovered us, -and came immediately up near us, making the earth tremble under them; -this brought to my recollection a charge of cavalry. They stopped and -gave us an opportunity to view them; among them there were some very -beautiful bays, blacks, and grays, and indeed of all colors. We fired -at a black horse, with an idea of creasing[II-22] him, but did not -succeed; they flourished round and returned again to see us, when we -returned to camp. - -_Sunday, Nov. 2d._ In the morning, for the purpose of trying the -experiment, we equipped six of our fleetest coursers with riders and -ropes, to noose the wild horses, if in our power to come among the -band. They stood until we came within forty yards of them, neighing -and whinneying, when the chase began, which we continued about two -miles, without success. Two of our horses ran up with them; but we -could not take them. Returned to camp. I have since laughed at our -folly; for taking wild horses in that manner is scarcely ever -attempted, even with the fleetest horses and most expert ropers. See -my account of wild horses and the manner of taking them, in my -dissertation on the province of Texas. Marched late. Killed one -buffalo. River turned to north by west. Hills changed to the north -side. Distance 131/2 miles.[II-23] - -_Nov. 3d._ Marched at ten o'clock. Passed numerous herds of buffalo, -elk, some horses, etc., all traveling south. The river bottoms full of -salt ponds; grass similar to our salt meadows. Killed one buffalo. -Distance 251/2 miles.[II-24] - -_Nov. 4th._ This day brought to our recollection the fate of our -countrymen at Recovery,[II-25] when defeated by the Indians, in the -year 1791. In the afternoon discovered the north side of the river to -be covered with animals; which, when we came to them, proved to be -buffalo cows and calves. I do not think it an exaggeration to say -there were 3,000 in one view. It is worthy of remark that in all the -extent of country yet crossed, we never saw one cow, and that now the -face of the earth appeared to be covered with them. Killed one -buffalo. Distance 241/2 miles.[II-26] - -_Nov. 5th._ Marched at our usual hour; at the end of two miles shot a -buffalo and two deer, and halted, which detained us so long that we -foolishly concluded to halt this day and kill some cows and calves, -which lay on the opposite side of the river. I took post on a hill, -and sent some horsemen over, when a scene took place which gave a -lively representation of an engagement. The herd of buffalo being -divided into separate bands covered the prairie with dust, and first -charged on the one side, then to the other, as the pursuit of the -horsemen impelled them; the report and smoke from the guns added to -the pleasure of the scene, which in part compensated for our -detention. - -_Nov. 6th._ Marched early, but was detained two or three hours by the -cows which we killed. The cow buffalo was equal to any meat I ever -saw, and we feasted sumptuously on the choice morsels. I will not -attempt to describe the droves of animals we now saw on our route; -suffice it to say that the face of the prairie was covered with them, -on each side of the river; their numbers exceeded imagination. -Distance 16 miles.[II-27] - -_Nov. 7th._ Marched early. The herbage being very poor, concluded to -lay by on the morrow, in order to recruit our horses. Killed three cow -buffalo, one calf, two wolves, one brelaw. Distance 18 miles.[II-28] - -_Nov. 8th._ Our horses being very much jaded and our situation very -eligible, we halted all day; jerked meat, mended mockinsons, etc. - -_Sunday, Nov. 9th._ Marched early. At twelve o'clock struck the -Spanish road, which had been on the outside of us, and which appeared -to be considerably augmented. On our arrival at the camp, found it to -consist of 96 fires, from which a reasonable conclusion might be drawn -that there were from 600 to 700 men. We this day found the face of the -country considerably changed, being hilly, with springs; passed -numerous herds of buffalo and some horses. Distance 27 miles.[II-29] - -_Nov. 10th._ The hills increased; the banks of the river covered with -groves of young cottonwood; the river itself much narrower and -crooked. Our horses growing weak; two gave out; bring them along -empty; cut down trees at night for them to browse on. Killed one -buffalo. Distance 20 miles.[II-30] - -_Nov. 11th._ Marched at the usual hour. Passed two old camps, and one -of last summer, which had belonged to the savages, and we supposed -Tetaus. Passed a Spanish camp where it appeared they remained some -days, as we conjectured, to lay up meat, previously to entering the -Tetau country, as the buffalo evidently began to grow much less -numerous. Finding the impossibility of performing the voyage in the -time proposed, I determined to spare no pains to accomplish every -object, even should it oblige me to spend another winter in the -desert. Killed one buffalo, one brelaw. Distance 24 miles.[II-31] - -_Nov. 12th._ Was obliged to leave the two horses, which entirely gave -out. Missed the Spanish road. Killed one buffalo. Distance 20 -miles.[II-32] - -_Nov. 13th._ We marched at the usual hour. The river-banks began to be -entirely covered with woods on both sides, but no other species than -cotton-wood. Discovered very fresh signs of Indians, and one of our -hunters informed me he saw a man on horseback, ascending a ravine on -our left. Discovered signs of war-parties ascending the river. Wounded -several buffalo. Killed one turkey, the first we have seen since we -left the Pawnees. [Supposed distance 12 miles.[II-33]] - -_Nov. 14th._ In the morning, Dr. Robinson, one man and myself, went -up the ravine in which the man was supposed to have been seen, but -could make no important discovery. Marched at two o'clock; passed a -point of red rocks and one large creek.[II-34] Distance 10 miles. - -_Nov. 15th._ Marched early. Passed two deep creeks[II-35] and many -high points of rocks; also, large herds of buffalo. - -At two o'clock in the afternoon I thought I could distinguish a -mountain to our right, which appeared like a small blue cloud; viewed -it with the spy glass, and was still more confirmed in my conjecture, -yet only communicated it to Dr. Robinson, who was in front with me; -but in half an hour they appeared in full view before us. When our -small party arrived on the hill they with one accord gave three cheers -to the Mexican mountains.[II-36] Their appearance can easily be -imagined by those who have crossed the Alleghenies; but their sides -were whiter, as if covered with snow, or a white stone. Those were a -spur of the grand western chain of mountains which divide the waters -of the Pacific from those of the Atlantic ocean; and it [the spur] -divides the waters which empty into the Bay of the Holy Spirit from -those of the Mississippi, as the Alleghenies do those which discharge -themselves into the latter river and the Atlantic. They appear to -present a natural boundary between the province of Louisiana and New -Mexico, and would be a defined and natural boundary. - -Before evening we discovered a fork [Purgatory river] on the south -side bearing S. 25 deg. W.; and as the Spanish troops appeared to have -borne up it, we encamped on its banks, about one mile from its -confluence, that we might make further discoveries on the morrow, -Killed three buffalo. Distance 24 miles.[II-37] - -_Sunday, Nov. 16th._ After ascertaining that the Spanish troops had -ascended the right branch or main river, we marched at two o'clock. -The Arkansaw appeared at this place to be much more navigable than -below, where we first struck it; and for any impediment I have yet -discovered in the river, I would not hesitate to embark in February at -its mouth and ascend to the Mexican mountains, with crafts properly -constructed. Distance 111/2 miles.[II-38] - -_Nov. 17th._ Marched at our usual hour; pushed on with an idea of -arriving at the mountains, but found at night no visible difference in -their appearance from what we did yesterday. One of our horses gave -out and was left in a ravine, not being able to ascend the hill; but I -sent back for him and had him brought to the camp. Distance 231/2 -miles.[II-39] - -_Nov. 18th._ As we discovered fresh signs of the savages, we concluded -it best to stop and kill some meat, for fear we should get into a -country where we could not kill game. Sent out the hunters; walked -myself to an eminence whence I took the courses to the different -mountains, and a small sketch of their appearance. In the evening, -found the hunters had killed without mercy, having slain 17 buffalo -and wounded at least 20 more. - -_Nov. 19th._ Having several buffalo brought in, gave out sufficient to -last this month. I found it expedient to remain and dry the meat, as -our horses were getting very weak, and the one died which was brought -up on the 17th. Had a general feast of marrow-bones, 136 of them -furnishing the repast. - -_Nov. 20th._ Marched at our usual hour; but as our horses' loads were -considerably augmented by the death of one horse and the addition of -900 lbs. of meat, we moved slowly and made only 18 miles.[II-40] -Killed two buffalo and took some choice pieces. - -_Nov. 21st._ Marched at our usual hour; passed two Spanish camps, -within three miles of each other. We again discovered the tracks of -two men, who had ascended the river yesterday. This caused us to move -with caution; but at the same time increased our anxiety to discover -them. The river was certainly as navigable here, and I think much more -so, than some hundred miles below; which I suppose arises from its -flowing through a long course of sandy soil, which must absorb much of -the water, and render it shoaler below than above, near the mountains. -Distance 21 miles.[II-41] - -_Nov. 22d._ Marched at our usual hour, and with rather more caution -than usual. After having marched about five miles on the prairie, we -descended into the bottom--the front only[II-42]; when Baroney cried -out "_Voila un Savage!_" We observed a number running from the woods -toward us; we advanced to them, and on turning my head to the left I -observed several running on the hill, as it were to surround us; one -with a stand of colors. This caused a momentary halt; but perceiving -those in front reaching out their hands, and without arms, we again -advanced; they met us with open arms, crowding round to touch and -embrace us. They appeared so anxious that I dismounted from my horse; -in a moment a fellow had mounted him and was off. I then observed that -the doctor and Baroney were in the same predicament. The Indians were -embracing the soldiers. After some time tranquillity was so far -restored, they having returned our horses all safe, as to enable us to -learn they were a war-party from the Grand Pawnees, who had been in -search of the Tetaus; but not finding them, were now on their return. -An unsuccessful war-party, on their return home, are always ready to -embrace an opportunity of gratifying their disappointed vengeance on -the first persons whom they meet. - -Made for the woods and unloaded our horses, when the two partisans -endeavored to arrange the party; it was with great difficulty that -they got them tranquil, and not until there had been a bow or two bent -on the occasion. When in some order, we found them to be 60 warriors, -half with fire-arms, and half with bows, arrows, and lances. Our party -was 16 total. In a short time they were arranged in a ring, and I took -my seat between the two partisans; our colors were placed opposite -each other; the utensils for smoking were paraded on a small seat -before us; thus far all was well. I then ordered half a carrot of -tobacco, one dozen knives, 60 fire steels, and 60 flints to be -presented them. They demanded ammunition, corn, blankets, kettles, -etc., all of which they were refused, notwithstanding the pressing -instances of my interpreter to accord to some points. The pipes yet -lay unmoved, as if they were undetermined whether to treat us as -friends or enemies; but after some time we were presented with a -kettle of water, drank, smoked, and ate together. During this time Dr. -Robinson was standing up to observe their actions, in order that we -might be ready to commence hostilities as soon as they. They now took -their presents and commenced distributing them, but some malcontents -threw them away, by way of contempt. - -We began to load our horses, when they encircled us and commenced -stealing everything they could. Finding it was difficult to preserve -my pistols, I mounted my horse, when I found myself frequently -surrounded; during which some were endeavoring to steal the pistols. -The doctor was equally engaged in another quarter, and all the -soldiers in their positions, in taking things from them. One having -stolen my tomahawk, I informed the chief; but he paid no respect, -except to reply that "they were pitiful." Finding this, I determined -to protect ourselves, as far as was in my power, and the affair began -to take a serious aspect. I ordered my men to take their arms and -separate themselves from the savages; at the same time declaring to -them that I would kill the first man who touched our baggage. On which -they commenced filing off immediately; we marched about the same time, -and found they had made out to steal one sword, tomahawk, broad-ax, -five canteens, and sundry other small articles. After leaving them, -when I reflected on the subject, I felt myself sincerely mortified, -that the smallness of my number obliged me thus to submit to the -insults of lawless banditti, it being the first time a savage ever -took anything from me with the least appearance of force. - -After encamping at night the doctor and myself went about one mile -back, and waylaid the road, determined in case we discovered any of -the rascals pursuing us to steal our horses, to kill two at least; but -after waiting behind some logs until some time in the night, and -discovering no person, we returned to camp. Killed two buffalo and one -deer. Distance 17 miles.[II-43] - -_Sunday, Nov. 23d._ Marched at ten o'clock; at one o'clock came to the -third fork [St. Charles river], on the south side, and encamped at -night in the point of the grand forks [confluence of Fountain river]. -As the river appeared to be dividing itself into many small branches, -and of course must be near its extreme source, I concluded to put the -party in a defensible situation, and ascend the north fork [Fountain -river] to the high point [Pike's Peak] of the blue mountain [Front -range], which we conceived would be one day's march, in order to be -enabled, from its pinical [pinnacle], to lay down the various branches -and positions of the country. Killed five buffalo. Distance 19 -miles.[II-44] - -_Nov. 24th._ Early in the morning we cut down 14 logs, and put up a -breast work,[II-45] five feet high on three sides and the other -thrown on the river. After giving the necessary orders for their -government during my absence, in case of our not returning, we marched -at one o'clock, with an idea of arriving at the foot of the mountain; -but found ourselves obliged to take up our night's lodging under a -single cedar which we found in the prairie, without water and -extremely cold. Our party besides myself consisted of Dr. Robinson, -and Privates Miller and Brown. Distance 12 miles.[II-46] - -_Nov. 25th._ Marched early, with an expectation of ascending the -mountain, but was only able to encamp at its base, after passing over -many small hills covered with cedars and pitch-pines. Our encampment -was on a [Turkey] creek, where we found no water for several miles -from the mountain; but near its base, found springs sufficient. Took a -meridional observation, and the altitude of the mountain. Killed two -buffalo. Distance 22 miles.[II-47] - -_Nov. 26th._ Expecting to return to our camp the same evening, we left -all our blankets and provisions at the foot of the [Cheyenne] -mountain. Killed a deer of a new species [_Cariacus macrotis_], and -hung his skin on a tree with some meat. We commenced ascending; found -it very difficult, being obliged to climb up rocks, sometimes almost -perpendicular; and after marching all day we encamped in a cave, -without blankets, victuals, or water.[II-48] We had a fine clear sky, -while it was snowing at the bottom. On the side of the mountain we -found only yellow and pitch-pine. Some distance up we found buffalo; -higher still the new species of deer, and pheasants [dusky grouse, -_Dendragapus obscurus_]. - -_Nov. 27th._ Arose hungry, dry, and extremely sore, from the -inequality of the rocks on which we had lain all night, but were amply -compensated for toil by the sublimity of the prospect below. The -unbounded prairie was overhung with clouds, which appeared like the -ocean in a storm, wave piled on wave and foaming, while the sky was -perfectly clear where we were. Commenced our march up the mountain, -and in about one hour arrived at the summit of this chain. Here we -found the snow middle-deep; no sign of beast or bird inhabiting this -region. The thermometer, which stood at 9 deg. above zero at the foot of -the mountain, here fell to 4 deg. below zero. The summit of the Grand -Peak, which was entirely bare of vegetation and covered with snow, now -appeared at the distance of 15 or 16 miles from us. It was as high -again as what we had ascended, and it would have taken a whole day's -march to arrive at its base, when I believe no human being could have -ascended to its pinical. This, with the condition of my soldiers, who -had only light overalls on, no stockings, and were in every way ill -provided to endure the inclemency of the region; the bad prospect of -killing anything to subsist on, with the further detention of two or -three days which it must occasion, determined us to return. The clouds -from below had now ascended the mountain and entirely enveloped the -summit, on which rest eternal snows. We descended by a long, deep -ravine, with much less difficulty than contemplated. Found all our -baggage safe, but the provisions all destroyed. It began to snow, and -we sought shelter under the side of a projecting rock, where we all -four made a meal on one partridge and a piece of deer's ribs the -ravens had left us, being the first we had eaten in that 48 hours. - -_Nov. 28th._ Marched at nine o'clock. Kept straight on down the -[Turkey] creek to avoid the hills.[II-49] At half past one o'clock -shot two buffalo, when we made the first full meal we had made in -three days. Encamped in a valley under a shelving rock. The land here -very rich, and covered with old Tetau [Comanche] camps. - -_Nov. 29th._ Marched after a short repast, and arrived at our camp -before night; found all well. - -_Sunday, Nov. 30th._ Marched at eleven o'clock; it snowed very fast, -but my impatience to be moving would not permit my lying still at that -camp. The doctor, Baroney, and myself went to view a Tetau encampment, -which appeared to be about two years old; and from their having cut -down so large a quantity of trees to support their horses, we -concluded there must have been at least 1,000 souls. Passed several -more in the course of the day; also one Spanish camp. This day came to -the first cedar and pine. Killed two deer. Distance 15 miles.[II-50] - -FOOTNOTES: - -[II-1] On the other hand, Lewis and Clark first heard of Pike's -expedition on Sept. 10th, 1806, when they were nearing the Big Nemaha -on their way down the Missouri, and met a boat with a trader bound for -the Pawnee Loups: see L. and C., p. 1206. - -[II-2] Letters to Generals Dearborn and Wilkinson, sent by this -express, formed Docs. Nos. 13 and 14 in the App. to Pt. 2. of the -orig. ed. They are given beyond. - -[II-3] Camp is on one of the tributaries of Rock cr., close to that of -Sept. 24th, if not on the same spot. - -The route now taken by the expedition is very little W. of S., to -strike the Arkansaw r. at the most convenient point. Thus it diverges -westerly from the route by which the Pawnee Republic was approached, -which was W. of N. The two make a [Symbol: Inverted V] whose legs rest -on the Smoky Hill fork at the two points where this was crossed in -going and returning, with the apex at the village. The main streams -crossed between the Republican and Smoky Hill forks are Solomon and -Great Saline rivers. Pike is also on the trail of the Spaniards who -have just raided United States territory to the Pawnees; he marks -their camps, as far as he can find them out, with a [Symbol: O], to -distinguish them from his own, marked [Symbol: X]. - -The party which leaves the Pawnees, so far as the white men are -concerned, only differs from that which left Belle Fontaine by the -absence of the deserter, Kennerman: see note 2, p. 358. The express -which Pike dispatched therefore consisted of some of his Indians. - -[II-4] This close calculation was doubtless based in part on -information Pike already possessed. We have been told that Malgares -started on his raid with 100 dragoons and 500 militia, of which 600 -men 240 had been detached, leaving 360. The "large branch" on which -was camp was probably one of the heads of Livingston cr. - -[II-5] "Distance 18 miles" would never bring Pike to any branch of the -Solomon. His error here is a puzzling one until it is detected by -reference to the map. That sets his camp-mark high up on the same -creek, several branches of which he had on his left when he went up E. -of it, Sept. 24th. It is _Buffalo cr._, which Pike erroneously runs -into Solomon r., and so seems never to have passed before. See back, -note 68. I suppose he struck Buffalo cr. below Mankato, somewhere in -the vicinity of Jewell and very likely between these places. He seems -to be holding about S. S. W., and to-morrow strikes Solomon r. But, as -already explained, note 70, p. 410, precision in this matter is -impossible, without knowing exactly where the Pawnee village stood, so -as to have a fixed initial point of the journey. I understand that -there was a certain "Pawnee trail" once well known from this village -to Great Bend on the Arkansaw. If this be now determinable, it will -represent Pike's route with a closer approximation to accuracy than I -have been able to follow it out. - -[II-6] To the Solomon r., in the vicinity of Beloit, Mitchell Co. The -stream which Pike lays down across his trail of to-day is perhaps Plum -cr., which falls in below Beloit. - -[II-7] Hiatus in the text, probably from missing or illegible MS.; no -course or distance for to-day. But the map shows a march, and sets -camp among the heads of a small stream. This is perhaps Salt cr., high -up, somewhere in the vicinity of Saltville, Paris, or Victor. - -[II-8] Perhaps to vicinity of Lincoln, seat of the county so called. -The map has an extra camp-mark, on the head of what Pike calls "Little -Saline river." - -[II-9] In saying that he crossed the (Grand Saline) river "two or -three times," Pike does not mean that he meandered that stream on his -march, but that he or some of his party were hunting about for the -Spanish trail which he was so eager to follow, and which here became -blind. His map marks [Symbol: O] [Symbol: O], the two Spanish camps he -found. His was on the north bank of Smoky Hill r., whose other name in -the text, "La Touche de la Cote Bucanieus," possibly stands for La -Fourche de la Cote du Kansas, _i. e._, that fork of the Kansas which -runs along the dividing ridge or coteau--which is perfectly true of -the Smoky Hill fork. Pike struck the Smoky Hill in Russell or -Ellsworth Co. Camp of the 13th is about on the border of Russell and -Barton cos., in the vicinity of Forest Hill and Dubuque. - -[II-10] The approximation of Missourian and Arkansan waters is here -very close. The Arkansaw makes its great bend northward into Barton -Co., whose county seat is named Great Bend accordingly. The courses of -the Smoky Hill and Arkansaw are for many miles approximately parallel, -and only some 30 m. apart in air-line distance; the numerous -tributaries of each arise all along the ridge which forms the divide -between these waters. Pike has crossed the divide, and is now on one -of the headwaters of Cow cr., a large affluent of the Arkansaw, which -traverses Barton and Rice cos. in a southeasterly course, and falls in -at Hutchinson, Reno Co. His camp appears to have been somewhere in the -vicinity of Claflin, Barton Co., on the Kas. and Col. R. R. The stream -is laid down on his map. It is by far the largest tributary of the -Arkansaw between the Little Arkansaw and Walnut creeks. It was the -last stream to be crossed on the old Santa Fe caravan road before the -Arkansaw was reached. This road also crossed the several tributaries -of Cow cr. in the vicinity of Lyons, Rice Co. One of these, between -Lyons and Chase, was called Little Cow cr. We find another, E. of -Lyons, marked on modern maps as "Jarvis" cr., and given as Charez or -Owl cr. in Beckwith's Report of 1853, P. R. R. Rep. II. 1855, p. 22. -Two of these names refer to Don Antonio Jose Chavez, who left Santa Fe -in February, 1843, en route for Independence, Mo., but was brutally -murdered and robbed in this vicinity, on or about April 12th, by a -party of 15 men who represented themselves to be Texan troops under -the command of one John McDaniel. Particulars of this outrage are -given by Gregg, Comm. Pra. II. 1844, pp. 166-169. - -[II-11] Walnut (Big or Wet Walnut) cr. is that large northern affluent -of the Arkansaw which runs E. from Lane through Ness and Rush into -Barton Co., and falls into the river 4 m. below Great Bend, county -seat of Barton. A branch of this, called Little or Dry Walnut cr., -runs E. from Rush into Barton, and falls into Walnut cr. about 4 m. -from the mouth of the latter. Great Bend is on the N. bank of the -Arkansaw, and thus between that river and Little Walnut cr. The way in -which, and the precise point at which, the Expedition struck the -Arkansaw could hardly be discovered from the text of the 15th-18th; we -are not even told till the 18th that we are on the Arkansaw, as the -15th mostly, and the 16th and 17th entirely, are taken up with the -wanderings of the lieutenant and doctor, who got lost. The key to the -situation is not found till the 23d, when it is luckily recited that a -trip was made from the camp on the Arkansaw "about 20 miles to a large -branch [or fork] on the right." This is the well-known Pawnee fork of -the Arkansaw, where was old Fort Larned, a noted place, and where is -now Larned, seat of Pawnee Co. So the Expedition struck the Arkansaw -20 m. below Larned, in the very suburbs of the present city of Great -Bend. This locality about the mouth of Walnut cr. became early noted, -not only as the place of northernmost deflection of the Arkansaw, but -also as the first objective point on that river, where the old Santa -Fe caravan road struck that river. It also became the site of Fort -Zara, or Zarah--to be found on some maps as Fort Sarah--which was -built in 1853 on the high ground between Walnut and Cow creeks, about -5 m. N. of the road. On July 12th of that year, Capt. Gunnison reached -the great bend by the Smoky Hill route from Fort Riley, having been -preceded in arriving there three days by his companion, who came over -the regular Santa Fe route; Lieut.-Col. E. V. Sumner, 1st Dragoons, -and other officers, arrived from Mexico the same night; and on the -spot was camped Captain and Bvt.-Major Edward Johnson, 6th Infantry, -about to build the fort, as that 100 m. further up the Arkansaw (Fort -Atkinson) was to be abandoned. Col. John Garland of the 8th Infantry -passed by in July of that year. Pike's approach was: Being in camp of -the 14th on some head of Cow cr., the Expedition started on the 15th -at noon, and marched five hours, about 15 m., on a W. S. W. course, -thus crossing the Cheyenne Bottoms above said, and coming to Walnut -cr. just above the mouth of the Little Walnut above described. Pike -pointed out a wood and told Wilkinson to go there to camp, while he -and the doctor would go up Walnut cr. a piece to hunt for the Spanish -trail. Either mistaking the wood intended, or finding himself so near -the Arkansaw, Wilkinson went on to that river and camped the party on -its north bank, a mile or two above where Great Bend now stands. Pike -and the doctor went shooting buffalo, and it got pretty late; they -returned to where Pike had told Wilkinson to camp, and found nobody -there; so they bivouacked on the spot. In the morning they went up -Little Walnut cr. to search, but did not go far from those two buffalo -they had killed; in fact they got rattled at finding no camp, turned -about and went _down_ Little Walnut cr. to its mouth (which is what -text of the 16th means by "their junction"--confluence of the two -creeks). On the morning of the 17th, being thoroughly alarmed, and -imagining that the party must be higher up the Little Walnut, they -started up again, but probably went a very little way in the rain; for -they were overtaken early on the 18th by two men whom Wilkinson had -sent in search of them, and then they were only "about three" miles -from the camp on the Arkansaw. It is not likely they were at any -moment 10 m. from the spot where they had left the party. - -Pike's map shows nothing but the trail of the party, no camp being -marked after that of the 12th, on the other side of the Smoky Hill r. -The trail makes a sharp elbow at the point where, having come down Cow -cr. on the 14th, they turned from that stream on the 15th. Besides Cow -cr., three others appear in succession to the W. The first is Walnut -cr.; the second is Little Walnut, a branch of the first, run -separately into the Arkansaw; while the third is Ash cr., which falls -in above camp. Cow cr. is brought in too near the next one. On the -south side of the Arkansaw is marked the station of the 19th-27th, -with the legend: "Here we struck the Arkansaw from whence L^t. -Wilkinson descended the river in skin canoes and Capt. Pike went up by -land with his party." This ends map I. of the Arkansaw, etc., and map -II. of the same connects at this point, the first stream laid down -being Pawnee fork, and the first camp that of the 29th. Camp of the -28th falls between the two maps, and is not shown. The Spanish trail, -which Pike lost on Smoky Hill r., was all the while a little to the W. -or right of the party, and is recovered on the S. side of the -Arkansaw, on the 30th. - -Pike elsewhere says of his journey from the Pawnees to the Arkansaw -that it was on a general course S. 10 deg. W. 150 m., but might have been -made in 120. His deviation from the most direct route was in bearing a -little too far W. to cross the Saline and Smoky Hill, and then some -needless meandering across the divide to the Arkansaw. But he struck -the latter exactly at the right point; for Great Bend is where the old -Smoky Hill and Cimarron route from Leavenworth to Santa Fe reached the -Arkansaw. There was of course nothing on the spot in Pike's time--nor -was there even in 1864, when I first passed the place, excepting a -miserable shack the stage company had built. The nearest settlement at -that time was Fort Larned. My journal of May 31st, 1864, refreshes my -memory: "At 2 p. m. we brought up at Fort Larned--mean place, built of -adobe and logs, with a drunken officer in command; everybody half -drunk already; and all were whole drunk by bed-time." - -[II-12] Doted or unsound: see L. and C., ed. 1893, p. 951. - -[II-13] Pawnee fork is larger than Walnut cr. It runs through several -counties on a general E. course, and falls in at Larned, seat of -Pawnee Co. When I was in the country, 30 years ago, the three -principal branches were called Heth's, Buckner's, and Shaff's. A -branch now rejoices in the name of Guzzler's Gulch. Saw-mill cr. is a -long but slight tributary which falls in close to the mouth of the -main stream. Pike crosses the mouth of Pawnee fork on the 29th; the -Spaniards had crossed it higher up. He lays it down as a short, forked -stream. Larned is now a city of some importance, and a rival of Great -Bend; it is the natural development of which old Fort Larned was the -germ; it is built mainly on the N. or left bank of Pawnee fork, but -has lately crossed that stream, and also extended in the adjoining -Arkansaw bottom. The locality became noted with the establishment of -the Santa Fe trade in the '20's, and later on was a point of strategic -importance in our relations with hostile or unruly Indians. The main -road passed here en route for Santa Fe, in continuation both of the -earliest caravan road and of the later Smoky Hill stage route; it -offered a good camping place, which traders, troops, and other -travelers generally occupied. Another reason for stopping was that the -river was not easy to cross when full. Thus, when Emory and Abert were -here, July 13th, 1846, one of Kearny's expressmen, A. E. Hughes, was -drowned in it (J. T. Hughes, Doniphan's Exp., 1887, p. 21). But it -varied much; July 13th, 1853, Gunnison and Beckwith found it 20 feet -wide, with a fair current, and a depth of only a foot or two. - -[II-14] This is an early but not the first account of the animals, and -has been much cited, particularly as authority for the name -wishtonwish (which J. Fenimore Cooper misapplied to the whippoorwill -in one of his novels). The date of Pike's observation is subsequent to -that of Lewis and Clark, but its publication was prior by four years; -both these notices are antedated by Gass, 1807: see L. and C., ed. -1893, p. 111. - -[II-15] A letter which Lieutenant Williamson bore to his father from -Pike formed Doc. No. 15 of the App. to Pt. 2. of the orig. ed., and is -given beyond in its proper place. - -[II-16] The five soldiers who descended the Arkansaw with Lieutenant -Wilkinson were: Sergeant Ballenger; Privates Boley, Bradley, -Huddleston, Wilson. Lieutenant Wilkinson's separate report of his -journey hence to the Arkansaw Post formed one of the Documents of the -App. to Pt. 2 of the orig. ed., and will be found beyond, where it is -annotated in due course. - -Those who proceeded to the horrors of the mountains in midwinter and -subsequent capture by the Spaniards were: Captain Pike; Dr. Robinson; -Interpreter Vasquez; Sergeant Meek; Corporal Jackson; Privates Brown, -Carter, Dougherty, Gorden, Menaugh, Miller, Mountjoy, Roy, Smith, -Sparks, Stoute--16 all told: compare date of Oct. 7th, p. 419 and note -2, p. 360. - -Pike now starts up the Arkansaw, to which he holds till he reaches the -site of Pueblo, Col. - -[II-17] Taking the party past Pawnee rock and the mouth of Ash cr., to -a point about midway between the latter and the mouth of Pawnee fork. -They traveled on the left or N. side of the river, approximately along -the track of the A., T. and S. F. R. R., passing Dundee station and -the small town of Pawnee Rock; Hubbard cr., on the other side of the -river, is also passed, and camp is set a little beyond it, over the -border of Barton Co., in Pawnee Co. The town of Pawnee Rock takes its -name from the remarkable natural object of the same designation, also -sometimes called Painted rock, which was a great landmark in old -times. This is the most prominent point of a sandstone ridge of -notably reddish color and in part scoriaceous; it is about 20 feet -high, and stands off to the right of the road as you go up--about 2 m. -from the Arkansaw r., before you come to the crossing of Ash cr. It -was a convenient place for the Indians to exercise their pictographic -art, and when the road came to be traveled by the whites the rock was -soon covered with inscriptions of names, dates, and the like. It is -about 9 m. by the road from the town of Pawnee Rock to the crossing of -Pawnee fork. - -[II-18] Passing Pawnee fork and Larned, Pawnee Co., to camp on the -left or N. W. bank of the Arkansaw, about 5 m. beyond. Here is the -place where the old Santa Fe road forked, in the days of the caravans -and stages. The main road followed up the Arkansaw; but the right-hand -road sheered off from the river to take up what was known as the "dry -route"--a sort of cut-off which looked promising and became a regular -stage-road, but was no great advantage when you had to go slowly and -camp out, as the lesser distance was offset by lack of wood at all -times, and of water at most seasons. Having been over this road, I can -certify to the remarks of Gunnison and Beckwith, P. R. R. Rep. II., -1855, p. 24: "Five miles from camp [on Pawnee Fork] the road forks ... -and one branch follows near by the windings of the Arkansas, to secure -grass and water, while the other appears to push off for a 'short cut' -and 'dry route' to Fort Atkinson, near which they again unite on the -Arkansas river; but this appearance is deceptive; for after going a -few miles it turns abruptly southward, and follows but a few miles -from, and parallel with, the other road, keeping it generally in -sight, as it does also the trees and sand-hills upon the banks of the -Arkansas river, and is, except in the rainy season, without good grass -and badly watered." The air-line distance of the "dry route," from the -point where Pike is now to Dodge City, is about 54 m.; the actual -travel is nearer 60. The ground passed over is that sometimes watered -by the Coon creeks, and the road coincides to some extent with that -now traversed by the A., T. and S. F. R. R. Of late the face of the -country has been modified by the Eureka Irrigating Canal, which starts -from the Arkansaw at Ingalls, hugs the river more or less closely to -the bluffs below Dodge City, and then starts off across country in the -direction of Spearville and Kinsley. - -[II-19] Pike camps to-night about opposite Garfield, a railroad -station and small village on the left or N. W. bank of the river. He -started up on that side (having the river to his left), but crossed -over on the 30th, and will continue the whole way to Pueblo up the -right bank, having the river on his right. The general course of the -river being from W. to E., its right bank is on the S., and thus N. of -Pike. - -[II-20] Kinsley, county seat of Edwards, is something of a town in -these parts, situated a mile or two W. of the river on that one of the -Coon creeks which runs oftener than the other one does, and which, -when it has any water to discharge, falls into the Arkansaw at -Garfield, after skirting the river for many miles. The nomenclature of -Big and Little Coon creeks is reversed on some maps. I find that I was -camped on one of them, 24 m. from Fort Larned, June 1st, 1864, under -which date my old journal calls it "a puddlesome slough on the -prairie." Thirty years ago it was good buffalo country, and -consequently bad Indian country. A note I penciled June 3d, 1864, runs -thus: "Our route since leaving Larned has been mostly along the north -bank of the Arkansaw. Queer river that--a great ditch, chock full of -grassy islets, stretching through the treeless prairie like a spotted -snake, some seasons so dry you can't wet your foot in it for miles, -and have to dig for a drink, sometimes a raging flood 200 yards wide. -Traveling without military escort is risky. The Cheyennes are on the -rampage; Comanches and Kiowas too." On the 6th, nearing Fort Lyon, we -passed an Indian camp; "it was a band of Arapahoes, at war with the -Cheyennes." - -[II-21] No mileage for to-day. By Pike's map, camp is at an elbow of -the river, which denotes that curve the Arkansaw makes in passing from -Ford into Kiowa Co. There is no place to name in this vicinity, and -the best maps, on a scale of 2 m. to the inch, do not give any island -hereabouts. We will allow Pike 16 m., and set camp in Ford Co., just -over the border of Kiowa. - -[II-22] To "crease" a horse is to hit him with a bullet somewhere -along the nape of the neck, close enough to the cervical vertebrae to -stun him by the shock to the spinal cord, or to the ligamentum nuchae, -yet not to inflict permanent injury. When this is nicely done the -horse falls as if killed, and is roped before he recovers. But it -takes a very good shot, like "driving the nail," "snuffing the -candle," "barking the squirrel," and other feats of skill which our -backwoodsmen used to practice. - -[II-23] Since he left Great Bend, Pike has had hilly country -continuously on his left, with only a very narrow river-bottom on that -side, in comparison with the breadth of the low-lying land on the W. -or N. In fact, it is this series of countless thousands of hills and -hillocks which causes the deflection of the river northward, thus -making the "great bend." The place where the change occurs, and where -Pike camps, is at Ford, a town in the county of that name, on the S. -bank of the Arkansaw, or rather on the E. and S. bank of Mulberry cr., -a stream from the S. W., which winds around the town on the W. and N., -and falls into the Arkansaw a mile or so lower down. A branch of the -Chic., Kas., and Neb. R. R. runs through Ford from Bucklin to Dodge -City, Ensign, and Montezuma. - -[II-24] Taking Pike past the site of old Fort Dodge and of present -Dodge City, nearly to the boundary between Ford and Gray cos.--say -halfway from Dodge to Cimarron, and thus about opp. Howell station of -the A., T., and S. F. R. R. Dodge started on the N. bank, but has -overgrown the river, and is now built up on both sides, with two -bridges across. Dodge is 17 m. by rail above Ford, and almost exactly -on the 100th meridian--probably some of the houses are built on each -side of this line of longitude. At or near Dodge were the long-noted -"Caches," of which most of the early travelers speak, but which seem -to have been latterly lost sight of. I cannot locate the exact spot, -but it ought to be easily recoverable by those who have the data I -happen to lack. The place used to be spoken of as near the meridian -just said--though that does not help us at all, as the maps of those -days were mostly 30' out of the way in longitudes. Thus, even Gunnison -and Beckwith's route-map of 1853 runs the line E. of the mouth of -Mulberry cr. where Ford now stands, and thus about 99 deg. 40'. Gregg's is -much closer than this, though it is on a much smaller scale; his 100th -line runs midway betwixt the mouth of Mulberry cr. and the "Caches." -Wislizenus' route-map, accompanying his report to Congress (Senate -Misc. Doc. No. 26, 30th Congr., 1st Sess., pub. 1848) is closer still; -for the "Caches" are marked scarcely W. of 100 deg.. Wislizenus gives us -another clew, as he marks "Fort Mann" at the "Caches." The "Caches" -were also about the place where the dry cut-off, described in note 18 -above, reached the Arkansaw--in short, everything points to the -immediate vicinity of Fort Dodge as the place where these caches were -located. "The history of the origin of these 'Caches' may be of -sufficient interest to merit a brief recital," as Gregg says, Comm. -Pra. I. 1844, p. 67, where, and on p. 19, we have the account. In 1812 -was fitted out the first expedition which attempted to reach Santa Fe -by following the account of Pike's journey now before us. This -consisted of about a dozen men, among them two named Beard and -Chambers, who had succeeded in reaching Santa Fe with the others, and -had returned to the United States in 1822 (Chambers had done so by way -of the Canadian r.). These two interested some St. Louis capitalists -to join an enterprise in the Santa Fe trade, and then undertook to -return to Santa Fe in the fall of 1822 with a small party and an -assortment of merchandise. "Reaching the Arkansas late in the season, -they were overtaken by a heavy snowstorm, and driven to take shelter -on a large island. A rigorous winter ensued, which forced them to -remain pent up in that place for three long months. During this time -the greater part of their animals perished; so that, when the spring -began to open, they were unable to continue their journey with their -goods. In this emergency they made a _cache_ some distance above, on -the north side of the river, where they stowed away most of their -merchandize. From thence they proceeded to Taos, where they procured -mules, and returned to get their hidden property. Few travelers pass -this way without visiting these mossy pits, many of which remain -partly unfilled to the present day." - -[II-25] Alluding to the terrible defeat of General Arthur St. Clair's -army by Indians on a branch of the Wabash r., in present Darke Co., -Ohio, Nov. 4th, 1791. This was the most disastrous battle ever lost by -the whites to the Indians, surpassing Braddock's defeat on the -Monongahela in 1755. On Dec. 25th, 1793, General Anthony Wayne, who -had become commander-in-chief in 1792, and taken command of the Army -of the West, sent a detachment of soldiers to take possession of the -field where General St. Clair had been defeated, built a fort there, -and named the place Recovery, because it was then first recovered from -the Indians, who had retained possession after the disaster above -named. June 29th, 1794, General Wayne sent troops with supplies to -Fort Recovery from Greenville, where he was then stationed. The -detachment reached the fort and deposited its supplies in safety, but -was immediately attacked, and the fort itself was invested by Indians, -assisted by whites from Canada. The battle raged June 30th and July -1st, when the assailants were repulsed, not without great loss on our -side. Among those who fell was the gallant McMahon, who had commanded -the expedition to Fort Recovery. For further information see: Howe's -Hist. Coll. Ohio, under head of Darke Co.; Burnet's Notes of the N. W. -Terr., chap. vii; Albach's Annals of the West, p. 642. Present Fort -Recovery is a village in Mercer Co. O., on a branch of the Wabash r., -close to the Indiana State line. - -[II-26] Camp past Cimarron and Ingalls, but not far W. of the -latter--5 m., perhaps. These are two towns on the N. bank, -respectively 18 and 26 m. above Dodge City. Ingalls is the seat of -Gray Co. The Amer. Sp. word _cimarron_ means something wild, runaway, -or unreclaimed, like _maroon_, and is applicable to an animal, a -person, a place, etc. It designated the wild sheep of the Rocky -Mountains (_Ovis montana_), gave name to one of the largest branches -of the Arkansaw, and was early associated with a certain route from -the Arkansaw to Santa Fe. The name of J. J. Ingalls was long prominent -in Kansas politics and in national statesmanship, and at one time -associated with the too-true statement that "purity in politics is an -iridescent dream." Notwithstanding the injunction against -truth-telling which the consequences of the scholarly senator's remark -imply, I wish to speak as accurately as possible regarding the points -at which the Cimarron route left the Arkansaw. There were two of these -places, both of which Pike passes to-day, where the river was forded, -and the road thus crossed from the N. to the S. bank. These became -known as the Lower and Upper Crossings of the Arkansaw; they were 8 m. -apart; the lower one was 18 m. and the upper one 26 m. above Fort -Atkinson; they thus correspond to the positions of Cimarron and -Ingalls, respectively. The river is now bridged at each town. The -Lower Crossing was the earlier one, most used by the traders from 1834 -till the closing of the Mexican ports in 1843; after the war the Upper -Crossing seems to have been generally chosen. Thus, we find Gunnison -and Beckwith saying in 1853, P. R. R. Rep. II. 1855, p. 26: "Seventeen -miles from the fort [Atkinson] there is a ford, sometimes used by the -trains and parties going to and from New Mexico by the Cimmaron -[_sic_] route; but the principal ford for that route is 8 m. above -this." Writing of 1846, Dr. Wislizenus speaks of moving "about 20 -miles" up the Arkansaw from the Caches, and arriving "at the usual -fording place," _i. e._, the lower one. "This track," says Gregg, -Comm. Pra. I. 1844, p. 311, "which has since remained permanent, was -made in the year 1834. Owing to continuous rains during the passage of -the caravan of that year a plain trail was then cut in the softened -turf, on the most direct route across this arid desert, leaving the -Arkansas about 20 miles above the 'Caches.' This has ever since been -the regular route of the caravans; and thus a recurrence of those -distressing sufferings from thirst, so frequently experienced by early -travellers in that unhospitable region, has been prevented." The first -camp S. of the Arkansaw was usually made in the vicinity of the Sand -Hills, at a place called the Battleground after 1843, in which year -the defeat of the Mexicans by the Texans under Colonel Snively -occurred on that spot; it was some 12-15 m. from the river. The roads -from the two fords came together at no great distance from the -Arkansaw (perhaps in the vicinity of Ulysses, seat of Grant Co.); -having thus headed the Crooked Creek branch of Cimarron, the road -crossed Sandy cr. not far above its confluence with the Cimarron, and -so reached that river. - -[II-27] Past Pierceville, a village and station on the A., T., and S. -F. R. R., just over the line between Gray and Finney cos.; camp 3 or 4 -m. short of Garden City, seat of the latter county. - -[II-28] Past Garden City and Sherlock; camp on or near the boundary -between Finney and Kearney cos., in the vicinity of Deerfield, a place -on the railroad. Most of the older maps mark hereabout the large -island in the Arkansaw called Chouteau's, somewhat W. of the 101st -meridian, and apparently near Deerfield. - -[II-29] Vicinity of Harland, seat of Kearney Co. In saying that the -Spanish road had been "on the outside" of the party, Pike gives us to -understand that it had run along to his left, a little further from -the river, though since the 30th of Oct. he had been also traveling on -the S. side of the Arkansaw, having that river on his right. -Nevertheless, the map marks the two trails as identical, the Spanish -camps alternating with the American all along. There has been little -to note along this stretch of the river, where no stream of any -consequence falls in on either side. Pike here remarks a change, in -the beginning of hilly country; extensive sand-hills are skirting the -river on the S., in Kearney Co., and thence into Hamilton. - -[II-30] Vicinity of Syracuse, seat of Hamilton Co. - -[II-31] Last day's journey in Kansas, passing from Hamilton Co., over -the inter-State line, into Prowers Co., Colorado. Pike's mileages -along the whole course from Great Bend are remarkably close. I -designedly ran them off day by day, without any checking by known -positions, to see when he would strike the inter-State line, about 5 -m. beyond which is the first identifiable named stream; expecting then -to hark back, much as usual, and make the requisite adjustments of -camps by proportionate lengths of each. But I find no occasion for -this; his own mileages fix his camp of the 11th as nearly as possible -on the line, and we have three identifiable streams in the course of -his march on the 12th. To-day's camp is between Coolidge, Hamilton -Co., Kas., and Hollys, Prowers Co., Col., 2 m. W. of the former, 4 m. -E. of the latter, in lat. 38 deg. 02' N., long. 102 deg. 02' W. - -[II-32] In Colorado Pike first comes opp. Hollys, a village on the N. -bank and station of the A., T., and S. F. R. R. Below this are some -small runs on the N., among them one called Cheyenne cr.; and Wild -Horse cr. falls in on that side a mile above Hollys. He then crosses -Two Butte cr., a much larger stream, from the S., arising in Las -Animas Co. about the elevations from which it takes name, running -through the N. W. corner of Baca and traversing Prowers to fall in a -mile above the mouth of Wild Horse cr., opposite the large island -there. Continuing, Pike crosses Granada cr., from the S., which falls -in where the railroad crosses the Arkansaw and runs into the station -named Adana. If he held straight on the best road, keeping to the left -of the extensive bottoms along here, he went through the present sites -of Granada, a village 4 m. W. of Adana, on Wolf cr., and of Manville, -a station 2 m. further along. Camp was set about halfway between -Manville and Carlton, a place 4 m. beyond. Several runs or washes make -in along here on each side, but seldom carry as much water as the -ditches which have been brought from the Arkansaw through and by -Granada. Pike charts Two Butte cr., and one that answers either to -Granada or Wolf cr.: notice the pair he lays down, S., with the legend -"Cotton Wood becomes frequent" lettered across Two Butte cr. - -The Wild Horse cr. above mentioned appears on Gregg's map by the name -of "Lit. Sand Cr." - -[II-33] No mileage to-day; and the omission is not easily supplied. On -the 15th Pike camps at the mouth of Purgatory r., and it took him 34 -m. by his reckoning to get there from his camp of the 13th. Therefore, -camp of the 13th was about 12 m. from that of the 12th, and thus -within a mile or two of Lamar. I shall so suppose it to have been. -This sets Pike past the "point of red rocks and one large [Big Sandy] -creek," which he speaks of as having passed on the 14th, but it agrees -with the map, which sets a camp-mark for the 13th past Big Sandy cr. -There is evidently a confusion of the record of the 13th and 14th, -perhaps in the flurry of the Indian sign; all things considered, I -shall set camp of the 13th, hypothetically, 2 m. short of Lamar: and -that of the 14th at the station Prowers, 10 m. further; whence it is -about 24 m. for the 15th to Purgatory r. The points passed on the 13th -and 14th are most conveniently discussed together: see next note. The -site of Fort Aubrey (named for or by F. X. Aubrey?), on the N. bank, -was probably passed on the 13th. - -[II-34] From his camp of the 12th Pike passes the village and station -Carlton, opposite which the small Cottonwood cr. falls in from the N., -and proceeds to his own "large creek" and "point of rocks." This -stream is Big Sandy cr., from the N.; Pike lays it down very well. It -is quite a river or river-bed, which when it runs drains from the high -country known as the Arkansaw Divide, _sc._ between Arkansan and -Missourian waters, in El Paso, Elbert, and Lincoln cos. The stream -further traverses Cheyenne and Kiowa cos., and seeks the Arkansaw in -Prowers Co., 2 or 3 m. below the point of rocks Pike notices. This is -a place where a bold headland abuts against the river on the south, -rising rapidly from 3,575 to more than 3,800--that is, some 300 feet -above the general level of the river bottom. A run known as Clay cr. -comes around the bluff on the W. The next above is Willow cr., S., on -which Lamar stands between irrigating ditches derived from the -Arkansaw, and the next above is Dry cr., S., halfway between Lamar and -Prowers station. Here is camp of the 14th, just over the border of -Prowers, in Bent Co. Pike's map legends "Broken with small Ravines & -Creeks" on the country passed over. - -[II-35] This statement conflicts with Pike's map, which lays down only -one stream between the two camp-marks that stand for the 14th and -15th. But the text is right, and _both_ these camp-marks are -misplaced. One belongs just below Mud cr., and the other at Purgatory -r., where there is no sign of one, though this is the most exactly -locatable station since we left Great Bend. Pike's "two deep creeks" -are Mud and Caddoa; his "many points of rocks" appear on any good -topographical map. There is a series of such between Prowers and Mud -cr., on the S., opposite which Graveyard cr. falls in, N. Two very -notable points of rocks, a mile apart, are separated by Caddoa cr.; -and Limestone cr. falls in from the N., 2 or 3 m. below these. These -bluffs extend to the village of Caddoa, 2 m. up, in a bottom left by -their recession from the river, before they again close in on the -river in two bold headlands, 1 or 2 m. above Caddoa. The country on -the N., across the river, is also bluffy for several miles along here. -The elevations close to the river are 3,800 to 3,900 feet, and higher -further back on both sides. Above the Caddoan bluffs a creek which -Pike charts falls on the S. This is lettered Blue cr. on late G. L. O. -maps, and Rule cr. on those of Hayden and Powell. Caddoa cr. heads -about the N. W. corner of Baca Co., and takes a northerly course to -the Arkansaw; Blue or Rule cr. is the larger one of the two; some of -its affluents are near those of Caddoa and upper reaches of Two Butte -cr., about Shell Rock canyon in Baca Co., but its real source is -further south in Las Animas Co., where Johnny cr. and others head. Its -course is northerly, but with an eastward trend, about parallel with -Purgatory r. About an hour before Pike reached this large river he -passed opposite the place where Fort Lyon was later built, on the -bluff around which the Arkansaw there sweeps closely. In 1864 Lyon was -the first inhabited place on the Arkansaw west of Larned, though there -had been trading-posts or certain other temporary dwellings at various -points, especially at the upper end of the Big Timbers, say 12 m. E. -of Fort Lyon. These were a large body of cottonwoods extending thence -several miles down the river on its N. side, and formed a noted resort -of various Indian tribes. Hence the woods became well known to -travelers along the Arkansaw, whose itineraries almost always speak of -the "Big Timbers" as they approach the Purgatory on their way to -Bent's fort. Pike's text of the 13th is no doubt the earliest -indication of these woods. - -Gregg's map lays down three large creeks from the S. between his Big -Sand cr. and Purgatory r. The first of these is called Mulberry; the -other two are nameless. The three appear to correspond to the Mud, -Caddoa, and Blue creeks just described. - -[II-36] The main chain of the Rocky mts., with Pike's Peak towering to -the right: see L. and C., ed. 1893, p. 328. Pike has before him the -Front range of the Rockies, northward, or to the right; and southward, -or to the left, the Sangre de Cristo range. The sources of Arkansan -waters are between these; while on the other side of the last named -range are those of the Rio Grande. The "cheers to the Mexican -mountains" were given at an alt. of 3,900 feet. - -[II-37] Purgatory r., also called in English Picket-wire, in French -Riviere Purgatoire, and in Spanish Rio Purgatorio and Rio de Las -Animas, is charted by Pike as the "1st Fork," with the legend "Here -the Mountains are first seen." This very large branch or fork of the -Arkansaw heads in that southward continuation of the Sangre de Cristo -range which is known as the Culebra range, about Trinchera, Culebra, -and other peaks, where it connects with sources of the Rio Culebra, a -tributary of the upper Rio Grande. Its own tributaries are very -numerous and extensive. The main river runs N. E. from Las Animas Co., -through the S. E. corner of Otero Co., and joins the Arkansaw in Bent -Co., between the site of Fort Lyon and that of Las Animas, present -county seat of Bent. Pike camped where the railroad now crosses; and -his journey since the 12th has been practically along the present -railroad line. - -[II-38] It is certain that Pike was on Purgatory r. on the 15th, and -certain that he did not reach his "Grand Forks" (present site of -Pueblo, at junction of Fountain r.) till evening of the 23d. The -distance between these points, along the river, is between 90 and 100 -m. Pike's ostensible mileages are: for the 16th, 111/2; 17th, 231/2; 18th -and 19th, none; 20th, 18; 21st, 21; 22d, 17; and 23d, 19; total, 110 -m. We have, therefore, to reduce these mileages by about one day's -journey. Observe, also, that only _four_ camps are marked for the -16th-22d; there should be _five_, and with that for the 23d, _six_. -Thus the text and map do not agree, and some error is evident, though -what it is we have no means of deciding with confidence. I am inclined -to think that the difficulty lies at the start from the "1st Fork" -(Purgatory r.), when so much of the day was occupied in searching for -the Spanish trail, and the "111/2" m. assigned may have been little if -any actual advance. If we proceed upon this supposition, there will be -no trouble in adjusting mileages to bring in the missing camp by the -20th; after which all possible error is removed by the identifiable -points. I shall, therefore, set camp of the 16th scarcely above the -mouths of Adobe and Horse (formerly Dry) creeks, which fall in close -together on the north, 7 and 8 m. above Purgatory r. Neither of these -is noticed by Pike, though each is larger than some of the streams he -charts. But they were across the river, and Pike had a bad case of -Spanish trail on the brain, aggravated by anxiety about Indian sign. - -[II-39] The mileage hardly requires any adjustment, from the position -I have assigned for the 16th, to set camp of the 17th in the close -vicinity of Rocky Ford, a village and station on the railroad, where -Pike remains on the 18th and 19th. Rocky Ford is 5 m. above Timpas cr. -(which he charts as the first stream from the left above his "1st -Fork"). Timpas or Timpa is a large creek which heads in Las Animas Co. -and runs N. N. E. into the Arkansaw at the upper point of that very -large island above La Junta. - -The most notable point passed to-day is the historic site of Bent's -old fort, on the N. bank of the Arkansaw, 7 or 8 m. E. of the Timpas. -It was a position of great consequence in the days of staging from -Fort Leavenworth and other points on the Missouri to Taos, Santa Fe, -and other New Mexican places. Most of the early itineraries, both -commercial and military, speak of Bent's fort, and the advantages of -this location for a post were more than once urged upon the attention -of the War Department. It was on an emigrant road, in the heart of an -Indian country overrun with various tribes; was a sort of focus for -several widely divergent termini; was in the vicinity of good building -material, and had plenty of fuel, grass, and water. Mr. Bent himself -destroyed it in 1849, when he abandoned it for sufficient reasons; but -some of the chimneys and adobe walls long stood to mark the spot. Thus -it was Bent's "old" fort when I passed by, about 30 years ago. -Gregg's, Wislizenus', and in fact most maps of the period mark the -fort, some of them giving also a certain Fort William alongside it. -The structure is described as "quite complete" by Lieut. J. W. Abert, -who was here in August, 1846, at which time he met such noted -plainsmen as Capt. Walker of California renown, Marcellus St. Vrain, -and "Bill" Garey. Col. Price's regiment was here about the same time. -The several columns of Gen. S. W. Kearny's Army of the West, which -invaded and subjugated New Mexico and California, coming from Fort -Leavenworth by the Arkansaw route, concentrated in camp a few miles -below the fort, Aug. 1st, 1846. Kit Carson knew the place well, and -Fremont found him not far away from here in July, 1843. A view of -Bent's fort as it appeared in 1846 is given by John T. Hughes, in his -admirable Doniphan's Expedition, 8vo, Cincinnati, 1847, p. 35. The old -route into Santa Fe left the Arkansaw close by Bent's fort, went S. W. -between Purgatory r. and Timpas cr., struck the latter at a place then -as now called Iron Springs, and so on through the Raton mts., not very -different from the way the A., T., and S. F. R. R. now takes. A -glimpse at the kind of a road this used to be is had from the -following extract from my diary: "_Tuesday, June 7th, 1864._ Bent's -old fort. Cold ride in the rain from 3 a. m. to 5 p. m., when we -brought up at the fort. Here was our crossing of the Arkansaw. Recent -hard rains made the river unfordable; so we had to ferry ourselves -over the surging tide in a frail skiff--ticklish business. However, we -got safe across, with all our worldly goods--the latter nothing to -speak of, and stood shivering while the ramshackled hack that met us -on the other side was loaded and hitched up. This storm and the -ferriage began a series of mishaps that reached to Fort Stanton in New -Mexico, and made the driver swear that 'the grace of God had petered -out on the other side of the Arkansaw.' Kept on to Iron Springs; road -miry, pace snaily." - -The name of Bent's Fort is preserved as that of a place nearly -opposite (a little above) the present station Robinson, which latter -is exactly on the boundary between Bent and Otero cos. Above this is -La Junta, on the S., seat of the county. Several creeks fall in on the -S. along here, the largest one of them named Crooked cr. - -[II-40] Taking the Expedition just beyond the mouth of the Apishapa, -Apishipa, or Apishpa r., to the present station Rockdale. This stream -is charted by Pike; _a camp-mark is set just above it_, assuring us -that the difficulty we had is already adjusted. It is a large river, -or rather a long-bedded water-course (like many others which start -well, but run out in the thirsty soil), heading about the Spanish -Peaks, and reaching the Arkansaw at the foot of Apishapa bluffs (4,675 -feet), between Rockdale and Catlin. Three miles off, across the -Arkansaw, is the station Olney of the Mo. Pac. R. R., which here comes -to the river. In old days a point opposite the mouth of the Apishapa -was a good camp on the Cherokee trail to the gold-diggings on Cherry -cr., with the Huerfano mountains and Spanish Peaks in sight. - -[II-41] To a point on the river, in Pueblo Co., between Nepesta and -the Huerfano, short of which river Pike's camp-mark is set. Pike -charts the Huerfano as his "2nd Fork." We also notice that he marks -_two_ Spanish camps, [Symbol: O] [Symbol: O], for the day's march, as -called for by the text, though they are by no means set down "within -three miles of each other." Nepesta is only a hamlet and station, but -serves to mark a well-known crossing of the Arkansaw. The A., T., and -S. F. R. R. now crosses here, meeting the Mo. Pac. R. R., and the two -tracks run together into Pueblo. The Huerfano is a great river, which -heads in the Sangre de Cristo range, among the mountains of the Sierra -Blanca range, and by various other affluents, as Muddy cr. and others, -heading in the very passes of the Sangre range which we shall have to -discuss when Pike's forlorn and frostbitten party reaches them. Some -other tributaries drain from the W. side of the Wet mts. The union of -these in Huerfano Park starts the river out of the mountains by -Huerfano pass; in the plains it receives Cucharas r., a tributary of -nearly equal size, from further S., and their united stream seeks the -Arkansaw on a N. E. course. A place called Jackson is on the river -near its mouth; opposite, across the Arkansaw, is Booneville. - -The place above mentioned by the name Nepesta reminds me to say that -Rio Napeste was a Spanish name of the Arkansaw r. itself, at least in -its upper or Colorado reaches. One of Pike's own maps letters "Rio de -Napesi," a phrase reappearing as "Rio de Nanesi" on Lewis and Clark's -map of 1814; and yet other forms of the name occur. The phrase is -obviously Spanish, but the word itself I do not recognize as -such--very likely it is derived from the Ute Indian language. -Humboldt's map letters "Rio de Napestle." - -[II-42] The "front only," a phrase italicized in the original, means -that only the vanguard of the army met the insolent Pawnees. This -probably consisted of Pike, Robinson, and Vasquez; the rest of the -invading forces, being 13 rank and file, main column and rearguard -combined, having not yet come up to engage the enemy. - -[II-43] The Huerfano (Orphan) r., marked "2nd Fork" on Pike's map, is -passed to-day without remark--no doubt Pike was thinking more of -Pawnees than of geography. In consequence of the fracas, little -progress was made; probably less than 17 m., as we see by the mileage -assigned to the 23d. Camp can be set little if any beyond the site of -old Fort Reynolds, which stood on the S. bank of the river, about -opposite the mouth of Black Squirrel or Chico cr. This falls in from -the N., on a course parallel with that of Fountain r.; it arises by -several heads in the Arkansaw divide, N. E. of Colorado Springs, -opposite heads of Kiowa and Bijou creeks (branches of the South -Platte); at its mouth is Chico sta. (Nyburg), on the N. side of the -Arkansaw, 12 m. E. of Pueblo. Nearly opposite the mouth of the -Huerfano is Booneville; this locality used to be a regular -camping-ground on the old Cherokee trail, and here was a ford across -the Arkansaw, opposite Charles Audebee's (or Autobee's) house. - -[II-44] Pike's Third Fork, charted "3d Fork," is the San Carlos or St. -Charles r. His Grand Forks is the confluence of Fountain r. with the -Arkansaw, at present city of Pueblo--perhaps the best known place -where we have found him since the Expedition started. The Charles -arises in the Wet mts., where also heads its main branch, called -Greenhorn r., as in fact the Charles itself often used to be. Their -streams unite in the prairie 8 m. S. of Pueblo, and fall into the -Arkansaw 7 m. E. of that city, or about halfway to Fort Reynolds. It -was in this vicinity that the old Cherokee trail forked, the -right-hand road taking up toward the gold diggings, while the other -kept on to Pueblo. The Greenhorn mt., about which the San Carlos -heads, has an ascertained altitude of 12,230 feet. Fountain r. is -still called Fontaine r. by those who prefer French to English, and -used to be more elaborately styled La Riviere de la Fontaine qui -Bouille, River of the Boiling Spring--not that the water is hot, but -that it bubbles as it wells out of the rocks, as if it were boiling. -"This spring," says Marcy, Pra. Trav. 1859, p. 300, "or, rather, -springs, as there are two, both of which boil up out of solid rock, -are among the greatest natural curiosities that I have ever seen. The -water is strongly impregnated with salts, but is delightful to the -taste, and somewhat similar to the Congress water." But before General -Marcy's time the springs had become noted. On the 17th of July, 1843, -they were visited by Fremont, who describes them at length in his -Rep., orig. ed. 1845, p. 117; Mr. Charles Preuss, of his party, -thought the water resembled that of the Seltzer Springs in the Grand -Duchy of Nassau. About nine-tenths of the solid matters in solution is -chalk. When I was at Manitou Springs, a few years ago, it was a common -sight to see people in the electric cars with bottles of the water, -which had already become an extensively advertised commercial article. -Fountain r. has also its Spanish name of Rio Almagre or Almagra, -meaning red ocher or other reddish earth. It is formed of two main -courses which head about Pike's Peak and other elevations of the same -outlying (Front) range of the Rockies, called respectively Fountain -and Monument cr.; these unite at Colorado Springs. Monument cr., -coming southward in the foothills, is composed of various others, -called Beaver, Dead Man's, West Monument, Crystal, etc. Fountain cr., -which comes eastward from Pike's Peak itself and that vicinity, seeks -the plains by the villages of Manitou Springs and Colorado City, and -the city of Colorado Springs (seat of El Paso Co.)--for such are the -respective designations of these places, now well known to tourists -and especially valetudinarians. At Manitou Springs it receives Ruxton -cr., through Ingleman canyon, now traversed by the cogwheel Manitou and -Pike's Peak R. R.; item, it receives Glen "Erie" (Eyrie) cr., which -runs through the little mountain park called Garden of the Gods--a -spot not favorable to agriculture and one whose alleged proprietors -maintain their wonted alibi. Visitors who now inspect the natural -curiosities hereabouts, including a cave of very respectable -dimensions and disagreeable atmosphere, go up a carriage road which -follows for some distance what was an old Indian trail between South -Park and the plains. Fountain r., thus composed, runs S. along the E. -base of the R. mts., receiving small affluents all along on either -hand, as Bear, N. Cheyenne, S. Cheyenne, Sand, Jimmy's Camp, and -Little Fountain creeks, and falls into the Arkansaw at Pueblo, as -already said. It is Pike's "North Fork" of the Arkansaw, and this is -the stream nearly parallel with which he proceeds via Turkey cr. -toward the "high point of the blue mountain," _i. e._, Pike's Peak. -His breastwork was built on the S. side of the Arkansaw, slightly -above the confluence of Fountain r., and thus within present city -limits of Pueblo--though the built-up portions of South Pueblo are -mostly a mile or so from the confluence. A suburb of South Pueblo is -called Bessemer, where stand the great smelters and other evidences of -that commercial energy which has caused Pueblo to be sometimes styled -"the Pittsburg of the West," though the pure air is not to be compared -with the smutty gas one breathes at the old site of Fort Duquesne. A -mile from Bessemer is Lake Minnequa, a resort of the Pueblonians for -boating, beer, and music. Pueblo has retained for more than half a -century a name that was originally not a proper but a common noun. -Thus we read in Fremont, Rep. 1845, p. 116: "Continuing down the -[Fountain] river, we encamped at noon on the 14th [of July, 1843] at -its mouth, on the Arkansas river. A short distance above our -encampment, on the left bank of the Arkansas, is a _pueblo_, (as the -Mexicans call their civilized Indian villages,) where a number of -mountaineers, who had married Spanish women in the vicinity of Taos, -had collected together, and occupied themselves in farming, carrying -on at the same time a desultory Indian trade. They were principally -Americans, and treated us with all the rude hospitality their -situation admitted." Fremont calls the river "Fontaine-qui-bouit" (not -_Bouille_). I understand that Pueblo was known at one time, during the -'40's, as Hardscrabble--a name now given to another place, for which -see a note beyond. I am told by Mr. Maguire that "Jimmy's Camp"--now -the name of a creek above said--was a traditionally well-known place -where one "Jimmy" had a small trading outfit, mainly for the Utes; he -was killed by the Plains Indians. Present Jimmy Camp is a hamlet about -Corral Bluffs, 9 m. due E. of Colorado Springs. - -[II-45] This was a slight structure, occupied only for a few days, and -soon disappeared. But it is notable as the first wooden building of an -American in present Colorado, and very probably our flag first flew in -that State over these logs. There was no trace of it to be found in -1819, according to Long. It was built on the S. side of the Arkansaw, -a little above the then confluence of Fountain r., within the present -city of Pueblo (South Pueblo). The precise spot has never been -recovered, and probably never will be. Changes in the river may have -soon washed it away, or left it at some unrecognizable point on the -prairie. The Arkansaw here has suffered great changes in details of -its course, and is liable to inundation: witness the disastrous flood -this year (1894), which almost drowned the city itself. In this -connection I may cite part of an interesting letter with which I am -favored by Mr. C. H. Small of the Board of Trade of Pueblo, whose -knowledge of real estate in that city is probably unsurpassed. It -refers to the discovery by excavation of an old fort which cannot by -any possibility be Pike's, yet in the course of human nature is liable -to become so considered by some, and in due time to enter history as -such. Mr. Small says: "A fort was once built on the south side of the -Arkansas just north of the Farris Hotel--between this hotel and the -Santa Fe R. R. tracks at Union Avenue. The channel of the river -changed in the seventies to a more southerly and straighter course. -The occupants of the fort were all massacred by Indians on one -occasion. In laying a pipe on Union Avenue two years ago [1892], one -or more skeletons were exhumed, doubtless the remains of those -massacred. This was at the depth of ten feet below the present level -of the street, and directly in front of the Farris Hotel; the logs of -the old fort were come upon at the same time. The grade of the street -had been raised five feet, about 1885." Mr. Small's letter is dated -Feb. 23d, 1894. In further correspondence on this subject I am given -to understand that this fort was an adobe structure built by the -American Fur Co., on what is now Union Avenue. On Christmas Day, 1854, -a drunken spree ended in a free fight, in which all the whites were -killed by the Indians but one, who fled to a smaller post on the -Arkansaw at the mouth of the St. Charles, 7 or 8 m. off, whence a -burying-party came next day. For a long time there was also an adobe -tower or lookout on top of the hill, about present intersection of -Second and Summit streets; but it has entirely disappeared. - -[II-46] Pike starts up the W. bank of Fountain r., but soon bears N. -W., directly through the present city, in the direction of Turkey cr. -This is a stream which runs (when it runs anywhere) parallel with -Fountain r., 10 to 15 m. further W.; it heads about Cheyenne Peak, the -foremost though not the highest of the Front range in the vicinity of -Pike's Peak. The air-line distance of Pike's Peak from Pueblo is about -50 m.; the distance over any ground by which the summit could be -reached would be as far again. In making this side-trip our hero -proceeds with the determination expressed in the modern slang phrase, -"Pike's Peak or bust!" We must remember that he knew nothing of -mountains, so to speak, from personal experience, and had never in his -life been higher than some pass in the Alleghanies, perhaps about the -elevation of the ground on which he built his breastwork (say 4,700 -feet). In the prairie close by Colorado Springs there stands a little -knob, up which a man could run in a few minutes, and which has been -dubbed in derision, "Mt. Washington," because it is exactly as high as -that celebrated peak in the White mts. of New Hampshire--6,288 feet. -Though Pike never surmounted his eternal monument, he overcame all -those dangers, difficulties, and hardships which did "bust" many a -later, less hardy, and less resolute adventurer who "bucked against -the Rockies." Tourists and invalids have now the option of ascending -to the summit of his peak from Colorado Springs by stage, or from -Manitou Springs by the cogwheel railroad, which has been in operation -since July, 1891. By the latter mode of conveyance I have ascended the -Rigi in Switzerland, as well as Mt. Washington in my native State; but -neither of these afforded the sensation I experienced upon the summit -of Pike's Peak, looking far down upon the greatest elevation he -attained on the present excursion. His 12 m. N. W. to-day sets him on -the prairie between Fountain r. and Turkey cr., nearer the latter. The -present road from Pueblo to Turkey cr. strikes the usually dry bed of -the latter at about 17 miles' distance, follows up the E. bank to the -foot of the mountain, crosses there, keeps on past East Turkey cr. -through Dead Man's canyon, crosses the heads of Little Fountain cr., -and continues to skirt the E. base of the range, past Cheyenne Peak to -Colorado Springs. Up to the canyon, at least, this is exactly the route -Pike took to reach Mt. Cheyenne. - -[II-47] In the hilly country along the E. side of Turkey cr., and then -on that creek, heading straight for Cheyenne Peak; camp on the creek -when he came to water, probably about where West Turkey cr. falls in; -altitude perhaps 6,000 feet. The situation is now in the ravine of the -creek, with elevations of 6,500 feet on the right, and others 7,000 to -8,000 feet on the left and ahead. The creek receives small tributaries -from the left all along, each gulch having its little stream, or bed -of one. One of the largest of these is West Turkey cr., running S. E. -from altitudes of about 9,500 feet. Further along comes down the -parallel stream of East Turkey cr., heading S. from Mt. Rosa from -altitudes of about 10,500 feet, and falling in by Dead Man's canyon. -The summit of the Cheyenne mt. is due N. of Pike's present position, -at an air-line distance of 10 or 12 m.; Mt. Rosa bears N. by W., -somewhat further off. The situation is such that, if Pike should keep -straight ahead, through Dead Man's canyon, he would run across Little -Fountain cr., and proceed to climb Cheyenne mt. from the S.; but if he -should bear to the left, up some one of the Turkey Creek affluents I -have mentioned or alluded to, he would much sooner reach what he would -be likely to call "the summit of the chain" (see text of the -27th)--that is, an altitude of about 9,000 feet, with Mt. Rosa bearing -N. and the summit of Cheyenne mt. N. N. E., each at an air-line -distance of 6 or 8 m. I think this was most probably his route; but do -not see that we have the data to establish the fact. - -[II-48] Pike's expectation of climbing his peak and getting back to -his camp on Turkey cr. in one day may serve to console some who have -thought they would like to take a stroll before breakfast to the same -peak from the Antlers Hotel in Colorado Springs. Though Pike's actual -footsteps in these mountains be not recoverable with exactitude, there -is no uncertainty as to _about_ where he was on the 26th and 27th, -when he climbed S. of Mts. Cheyenne and Rosa to an altitude of about -9,000 feet, and then returned. Mt. Cheyenne is the foremost of the -group of peaks in this part of the Front range; it stands out in such -bold relief that uninformed visitors to Colorado Springs often mistake -it for Pike's Peak. But its altitude is only 9,407 or 9,948 feet, as -estimated by different authorities, and thus considerably less than -that of various other peaks in the vicinity. Some of these are: -Cameron Cone, 10,685 or 11,560 feet; Mt. Rosa, 11,427 or 11,572 feet; -Mt. Pisgah, given as 10,487 feet; Pilate Peak, given as 12,420 feet. -The two last named are further W. and S.; Cheyenne, Cameron, and Rosa -form angles of a triangle, E. of Pike's Peak, that "grim sentinel of -the Rockies," as it is styled by some, or the "Grand Peak," as Pike -calls it, which towers over all the rest to the generally accepted -altitude of 14,147 feet. These figures can easily be recalled to mind -if one remembers that twice seven is 14. This peak is due W. of -Colorado Springs, at an air-line distance of 12 m. Visitors are driven -to the summit by way of the Cascade carriage road, running up Cascade -canyon from a point in the Ute Pass 11 m. from Colorado Springs. This -stage route is a trifle over 17 m. from Cascade, or a total of about -28 m. from the Antlers Hotel, Colorado Springs. During the season when -the crop of pink-toed tender-foots is harvested, wagons make the round -trip in one day, 9 a. m.-6 p. m., spending an hour at the Halfway House -and another at the Peak. This is said to be the highest stage-line in -the United States. There is also a road up Bear Creek canyon to the -Seven Lakes, but not to the Peak, and no line of stages is regularly -run on it. The Cheyenne Mountain road also goes to these lakes, and -has been run through to the mining camp on Cripple cr., which lately -made such a noise in Colorado. This is S. W. of the peak, about 18 -air-line miles from Colorado Springs. The Pike's Peak Cog Railway -takes a much shorter, steeper, and straighter course than the stage -road, by way of Ingleman canyon and Ruxton cr. The cog line starts from -Manitou, 61/4 m. from Colorado Springs, and is 83/4 m. long. The round -trip is made in about five hours, two hours each way, with one hour -between, on the summit. This is ample time; for tourists find Pike's -Peak a convenient place to leave as soon as they have paid twenty-five -cents for a cup of the worst coffee in the world, and tried in vain to -stand up against a wind of 50 or 60 m. an hour. Those who may be more -interested in Pike's Peak at a distance are referred to a dainty -booklet entitled Legends of the Pike's Peak Region, 8vo, Denver, 1892; -it is full of quaint local lore, especially of the traditions of the -only mountain Pike climbed part way up. Among all the myths that cling -to the Peak, obscuring the facts in the case like the clouds that -mantle the mountain, the very basic one--that one on which the -mountain rests, so to speak--is the universal tradition that the brave -young officer discovered and ascended the Peak which upholds his name. -One wishes that such laurels as he earned and well deserved had been -plucked from an eminence unknown and unattained before. But Pike's -Peak had been long and well known to the Spaniards; it was the Ultima -Thule of their possessions; and for that matter, was not Pike at the -very time in pursuit of the Spanish troops under Malgares, who had -gone along just before him? It is true that Pike, Robinson, Brown, and -Miller--the four whose names are thus linked should be upheld -together--are the first white men known to have come within "the -distance of 15 or 16 miles" of the peak, as it seemed to them, when -the "Grand Peak" appeared "as high again as what we ascended and would -have taken a whole day's march to arrive at its base." This is the -testimony of the hero of the occasion; his evidence is alike incisive -and decisive. So far as we are informed by authentic history, Pike's -Peak was first surmounted by Dr. Edwin James, Mr. Wilson, and two -other men, July 13th and 14th, 1820, during Major S. H. Long's -expedition to the Rocky mts., when it was named James' Peak. When, -where, and by whom the mountain was first called Pike's Peak is -unknown, to me at least; but its earliest appearance in print should -be discoverable. The date is probably somewhere in the '40's, or still -earlier. The name was certainly in verbal use in the '30's. Mr. Oliver -P. Wiggins, now of Denver, who was on the plains in 1838, heard only -"Pike's Peak," as a phrase already in common speech. Gregg's map of -1844 legends "Pikes Peak (or James')." Beckwith's Report of 1853, pub. -1855, p. 30, has only "James'." The alternative names ran parallel for -some years. G. K. Warren states, Pac. R. R. Rep. XI., 1855, p. 24: -"Captain Fremont, in his report and map of explorations in 1843 and -1844, calls it Pike's Peak, probably because it was so called by the -white people in the country at the time": see also George Frederick -Ruxton's Adventures, etc., London, Murray, 1861, but written much -earlier. Governor Alva Adams, in the address already cited, p. 13, -discusses the point as "one of the historical mysteries," and adds: -"The name of Pike's Peak begins to appear in the literature of the -prairies and mountains about the middle of the century, but it was not -irrevocably christened until the Pike's Peak gold excitement, when the -name was fixed to remain as long as men love to listen to stories of -valor." Whether it originated spontaneously or was formally -introduced, it will probably never die; the alliteration of the words -would be enough to keep the phrase in the mouths of the people, let -alone its justice and propriety. As for any Spanish claim which may -hereafter be established respecting prior discovery or ascent of the -peak, the following extract from the Legends already cited is -pertinent: "From Pike's Peak to Popocatepetl the land is a palimpsest, -dotted with ruins of remotest antiquity, the relics of a people whose -records are replete with poetry and strange romance. Their manuscripts -enrich the archives of Mexico and Madrid, and yet we learn but little -of them. They moulder in the missions of the suspicious Spanish -priests, or among the mystic treasures of the Pueblos, and are -decaying unread." - -[II-49] The trail of this excursus, as dotted on Pike's map, would be -enough to show how far he was from reaching the summit of the "Highest -Peak" there delineated, in the absence of any other data. Such an -affair as this would never have been understated or underdrawn -intentionally. Yet the dot-line leaves him further from the peak than -I am inclined to think he actually was; but it is obviously incorrect -in detail, and thus no offset to the explicit text. The wide looping -of the trail merely indicates a "round trip" from Pueblo and return. -The only considerable difference in Pike's going and coming was, that -in the latter case he "kept straight down the creek to avoid the -hills," over which he had before trudged. The map exaggerates the size -of Turkey cr., as well as of Fountain r. It is possible that someone -thoroughly familiar with the topography of the mountains at the heads -of Turkey and Little Fountain creeks may yet work out Pike's trail in -exact detail. - -[II-50] Up S. bank of the Arkansaw, past places called Goodnight, Rock -Canyon, Vegas, and Meadows; also past Rock and Peck's or Willow Springs -creeks, both S., to a point near but short of the mouth of Turkey cr., -N. - - - - -CHAPTER III. - -ITINERARY, CONCLUDED: IN THE MOUNTAINS OF COLORADO ON HEADWATERS OF -THE ARKANSAW AND RIO GRANDE, DECEMBER 1ST, 1806-FEBRUARY 26TH, 1807. - - -_Monday, Dec. 1st._ The storm still continuing with violence, we -remained encamped; the snow by night was one foot deep. Our horses -were obliged to scrape it away to obtain their miserable pittance, and -to increase their misfortunes the poor animals were attacked by the -magpies, which, attracted by the scent of their sore backs, alighted -on them, and in defiance of their wincing and kicking, picked many -places quite raw. The difficulty of procuring food rendered those -birds so bold as to alight on our men's arms and eat meat out of their -hands. One of our hunters went out, but killed nothing. - -_Dec. 2d._ It cleared off in the night, and in the morning the -thermometer stood at 17 deg. below zero (Reaumer [Reaumur]), being three -times as cold as any morning we had yet experienced. We killed an old -buffalo on the opposite [north] side of the river, which here was so -deep as to swim horses. Marched and found it necessary to cross to the -north side, about two miles up, as the ridge joined the river.[III-1] -The ford was a good one, but the ice ran very bad, and two of the men -got their feet frozen before we could get accommodated with fire, etc. -Secured some of our old buffalo and continued our march. The country -being very rugged and hilly, one of our horses took a freak in his -head and turned back, which occasioned three of our rear-guard to lie -out all night; I was very apprehensive they might perish on the -prairie. Distance 13 miles. - -_Dec. 3d._ The weather moderating to 3 deg. below zero, our absentees -joined, one with his feet frozen, but were not able to bring up the -horse. I sent two men back on horseback. The hardships of last voyage -[_i. e._, that up the Mississippi, winter of 1805-6] had now begun; -and had the climate only been as severe as the climate then was, some -of the men must have perished, for they had no winter clothing. I wore -myself cotton overalls, for I had not calculated on being out in that -inclement season of the year. - -Dr. Robinson and myself, with assistants, went out and took the -altitude of the north mountain [Pike's Peak], on the base of a mile. -The perpendicular height of this mountain, from the level of the -prairie, was 10,581 feet, and admitting that the prairie was 8,000 -feet from the level of the sea, it would make the elevation of this -peak 18,581 feet; equal to some and surpassing the calculated height -of others for the peak of Teneriffe, and falling short of that of -Chimborazo only 1,701 feet. Indeed, it was so remarkable as to be -known to all the savage nations for hundreds of miles around, to be -spoken of with admiration by the Spaniards of New Mexico, and to be -the bounds of their travels N. W. In our wandering in the mountains it -was never out of sight, except when in a valley, from the 14th of -November to the 27th of January.[III-2] - -After this, together with Sparks, we endeavored to kill a cow, but -without effect. Killed two bulls, that the men might use pieces of -their hides for mockinsons. Left Sparks out. On our return to camp -found the men had got back with the strayed horse, but too late to -march. - -_Dec. 4th._ Marched about five o'clock; took up Sparks, who had -succeeded in killing a cow. Killed two buffaloes and six turkeys. -Distance 20 miles.[III-3] - -_Dec. 5th._ Marched at our usual hour. Passed one very bad place of -falling rocks; had to carry our loads. Encamped on the main branch of -the river [as distinguished from Grape creek], near the entrance of -the South [Wet] mountain. In the evening walked up to the mountain. -Heard 14 guns at camp during my absence, which alarmed me -considerably; returned as quickly as possible, and found that the -cause of my alarm was their shooting turkeys. Killed two buffaloes and -nine turkeys. Distance 18 miles.[III-4] - -_Dec. 6th._ Sent out three different parties to hunt the Spanish -trace, but without success. The doctor and myself followed the river -into the mountain, where it was bounded on each side by the rocks of -the mountain, 200 feet high, leaving a small valley of 50 or 60 feet -[in the "Royal Gorge"]. Killed two buffaloes, two deer, one turkey. - -_Sunday, Dec. 7th._ We again dispatched parties in search of the -trace. One party discovered it, on the other side of the river, and -followed it into the valley of the river at the entrance of the -mountain, where they met two parties who were returning from exploring -the two branches[III-5] of the river, in the mountains; of which they -reported that they had ascended until the river was merely a brook, -bounded on both sides with perpendicular rocks, impracticable for -horses ever to pass them; they had then recrossed the river to the -north side, and discovered, as they supposed, that the Spanish troops -had ascended a dry valley to the right. On their return they found -some rock-salt, samples of which were brought me. We determined to -march the morrow to the entrance of the valley, there to examine the -salt and the road. Killed one wildcat. - -_Dec. 8th._ On examining the trace found yesterday, conceived it to -have been only a reconnoitering party, dispatched from the main body; -and on analyzing the rock-salt, found it to be strongly impregnated -with sulphur. There were some very strong sulphurated springs at its -foot. Returned to camp; took with me Dr. Robinson and Miller, and -descended the river, in order to discover certainly if the whole -[Spanish] party had come by this route. Descended about seven miles on -the south side [of the Arkansaw]. Saw great quantities of turkeys and -deer. Killed one deer. - -_Dec. 9th._ Before we marched, killed a fine buck at our camp as he -was passing. Found the Spanish camp about four miles below; and, from -every observation we could make, conceived they had all ascended the -river. Returned to camp, where we arrived about two o'clock. Found all -well; would have moved immediately, but four men were out -reconnoitering. Killed three deer. - -_Dec. 10th._ Marched and found the road over the mountain to be -excellent. Encamped in a dry ravine.[III-6] Obliged to melt snow for -ourselves and horses; and as there was nothing else for the latter to -eat, gave them one pint of corn each. Killed one buffalo. - -_Dec. 11th._ Marched at ten o'clock, and in one mile struck a branch -[Oil creek] of the Arkansaw on which the supposed Spaniards had -encamped, where there was both water and grass. Kept up this branch, -but was frequently embarrassed as to the trace; at three o'clock, -having no sign of it, halted and encamped, and went out to search it; -found it about one mile to the right. Distance 15 miles. - -_Dec. 12th._ Marched at nine o'clock. Continued up the same branch -[Oil creek] as yesterday. The ridges on our right and left appeared to -grow lower, but mountains appeared on our flanks, through the -intervals, covered with snow. Owing to the weakness of our horses, we -made only 12 miles.[III-7] - -_Dec. 13th._ Marched at the usual hour; passed large springs, and the -supposed Spanish camp; crossed at twelve o'clock a dividing -ridge,[III-8] and immediately fell on a small branch running N. 20 deg. -W. There being no appearance of wood, we left it and the Spanish trace -to our right, and made for the hills to encamp. After the halt I took -my gun and went out to see what discovery I could make. After marching -about two miles north, fell on a river 40 yards wide, frozen over; -which, after some investigation, I found ran northeast. This was the -occasion of much surprise, as we had been taught to expect to meet -with the branches of Red river, which should run southeast. Query: -Must it not be the headwaters of the river Platte? [Answer: You are on -the South Platte, at the head of Eleven Mile canyon.] If so, the -Missouri must run much more west than is generally represented; for -the Platte is a small river, by no means presenting an expectation of -so extensive a course. One horse gave out and was left. Distance 18 -miles. - -_Sunday, Dec. 14th._ Marched; struck the river, ascended it four -miles, and encamped on the north side.[III-9] The prairie, being -about two miles wide, was covered for at least six miles along the -banks of the river with horse-dung and the marks of Indian camps, -which had been made since cold weather, as was evident by the fires -which were in the center of the lodges. The sign made by their horses -was astonishing, and would have taken a thousand horses some months. -As it was impossible to say which course the Spaniards had pursued, -amongst this multiplicity of signs, we halted early, and discovered -that they or the savages had ascended the river. We determined to -pursue them, as the geography of the country had turned out to be so -different from our expectations. We were somewhat at a loss which -course to pursue, unless we attempted to cross the snow-capped -mountains to the southeast of us, which was almost impossible. Burst -one of our rifles, which was a great loss, as it made three guns which -had burst; five had been broken on the march, and one of my men was -now armed with my sword and pistols. Killed two buffaloes. - -_Dec. 15th._ After repairing our guns we marched, but were obliged to -leave another horse. Ascended the river, both sides of which were -covered with old Indian camps, at which we found corn-cobs. This -induced us to believe that those savages, although erratic, must -remain long enough in one position to cultivate this grain, or obtain -it of the Spaniards. From their sign they must have been extremely -numerous, and possessed vast numbers of horses. My poor fellows -suffered extremely with cold, being almost naked. Distance 10 -miles.[III-10] - -_Dec. 16th._ Marched up the river about two miles and killed a -buffalo; when, finding no road up the stream, we halted and dispatched -parties in different courses, the doctor and myself ascending high -enough to enable me to lay down the course of the river into the -mountains. From a high ridge we reconnoitered the adjacent country, -and concluded, putting the Spanish trace out of the question, to bear -our course southwest, for the head of Red river.[III-11] One of our -party found a large camp, which had been occupied by at least 3,000 -Indians, with a large cross in the middle. Query: Are those people -Catholics? [Answer: No--party of Comanches and Kiowas, among whom was -James Pursley.] - -_Dec. 17th._ Marched; and on striking a left-hand fork of the river we -had left, found it to be the main branch [of the South Platte]; -ascended it to some distance, but finding it to bear too much to the -north, we encamped about two miles from it, for the purpose of -benefiting by its water. Distance 15 miles.[III-12] - -_Dec. 18th._ Marched, and crossed the mountain [one of the Trout -Creek Pass hills] which lay southwest of us; in a distance of seven -miles arrived at a small spring. Some of our lads observed that they -supposed it to be Red river, to which I then gave very little credit. -On entering a gap in the next mountain [of the Park range], came past -an excellent spring, which formed a fine [Trout] creek. This we -followed through narrows in the mountains for about six miles. Found -many evacuated camps of Indians, the latest yet seen. After pointing -out the ground for the encampment, the doctor and myself went on to -make discoveries, as was our usual custom, and in about four miles' -march we struck what we supposed to be Red river [but was the -Arkansaw], which here was about 25 yards wide, ran with great -rapidity, and was full of rocks. We returned to the party with the -news, which gave general pleasure. Determined to remain a day or two -in order to examine the source. Snowing. Distance 18 miles.[III-13] - -_Dec. 19th._ Marched down the creek near the opening of the prairie, -and encamped;[III-14] sent out parties hunting, etc., but had no -success. Still snowing and stormy; making preparations to take an -observation. - -_Dec. 20th._ Having found a fine place for pasture on the river, sent -our horses down to it with a guard; also, three parties out hunting, -all of whom returned without success. Took an observation. As there -was no prospect of killing any game, it was necessary that the party -should leave that place. I therefore determined that the doctor and -Baroney should descend the river in the morning; that myself and two -men would ascend; and that the rest of the party should descend after -the doctor, until they obtained provisions and could wait for me. - -_Sunday, Dec. 21st._ The doctor and Baroney marched; the party -remained for me to take a meridional observation; after which we -separated. Myself and the two men who accompanied me, Mountjoy and -Miller, ascended 12 miles[III-15] and encamped on the north side. The -river continued close to the north mountain [Park range], running -through a narrow rocky channel in some places not more than 20 feet -wide and at least 10 feet deep. Its banks were bordered by yellow -pine, cedar, etc. - -_Dec. 22d._ Marched up [the Arkansaw] 13 miles,[III-16] to a large -point of the mountain, whence we had a view at least 35 miles, to -where the river entered the mountains; it being at that place not more -than 10 or 15 feet wide, and properly speaking, only a brook. From -this place, after taking the course and estimating the distance, we -returned to our camp of last evening. Killed one turkey and a hare. - -_Dec. 23d._ Marched early, and at two o'clock discovered the trace of -our party on the opposite side of the river; forded it, although -extremely cold, and marched until some time in the night, when we -arrived at the second night's encampment[III-17] of our party. Our -clothing was frozen stiff, and we ourselves were considerably -benumbed. - -_Dec. 24th._ The party's provisions extended only to the 23d, and -their orders were not to halt until they killed some game, and then -wait for us; consequently they might have been considerably advanced. -About eleven o'clock met Dr. Robinson on a prairie, who informed me -that he and Baroney had been absent from the party two days without -killing anything, also without eating; but that overnight they had -killed four buffaloes, and that he was in search of the men. I -suffered the two lads [Miller, Mountjoy] with me to go to the camp -where the meat was, as we had also been nearly two days without -eating. The doctor and myself pursued the trace and found them -encamped on the river-bottom. Sent out horses for the meat. Shortly -afterward Sparks arrived and informed us he had killed four cows. -Thus, from being in a starving condition, we had eight beeves in our -camp.[III-18] - -We now again found ourselves all assembled together on Christmas Eve, -and appeared generally to be content, although all the refreshment we -had to celebrate that day with was buffalo meat, without salt, or any -other thing whatever. My little excursion up the river had been in -order to establish the geography of the sources of the supposed Red -river. As I well knew that the indefatigable researches of Dr. Hunter, -[William] Dunbar, and [Thomas] Freeman had left nothing unnoticed in -the extent of their voyage up said river, I determined that its upper -branches should be equally well explored. In this voyage I had already -ascertained the sources of the [Little] Osage and White [Neosho] -rivers, been round the head of the Kans river [_i. e._, above the -confluence of its Smoky Hill and Republican forks], and on the -headwaters of the [South] Platte. - -_Dec. 25th._ It being stormy weather and having meat to dry, I -concluded to lie by this day. Here I must take the liberty of -observing that, in this situation, the hardships and privations we -underwent were on this day brought more fully to our mind, having been -accustomed to some degree of relaxation, and extra enjoyments. But -here, 800 miles from the frontiers of our country, in the most -inclement season of the year--not one person clothed for the -winter--many without blankets, having been obliged to cut them up for -socks, etc., and now lying down at night on the snow or wet ground, -one side burning whilst the other was pierced with the cold wind--such -was in part the situation of the party, whilst some were endeavoring -to make a miserable substitute of raw buffalo hide for shoes, etc. I -will not speak of diet, as I conceive that to be beneath the serious -consideration of a man on a voyage of such a nature. We spent the day -as agreeably as could be expected from men in our situation. - -Caught a bird of a new species [_Conurus carolinensis_] having made a -trap for him. This bird was of a green color, almost the size of a -quail, had a small tuft on its head like a pheasant, and was of the -carnivorous species; it differed from any bird we ever saw in the -United States. We kept him with us in a small wicker cage, feeding him -on meat, until I left the interpreter on the Arkansaw, with whom I -left it. We at one time took a companion of the same species and put -them in the same cage, when the first resident never ceased attacking -the stranger until he killed him. - -_Dec. 26th._ Marched at two o'clock and made 71/2 miles to the entrance -of the mountains.[III-19] On this piece of prairie the river spreads -considerably, and forms several small islands; a large stream [South -Arkansaw] enters from the south. As my boy and some others were sick, -I omitted pitching our tent in order that they might have it; in -consequence of which we were completely covered with snow on top, as -well as that part on which we lay. - -_Dec. 27th._ Marched over an extremely rough road; our horses received -frequent falls, and cut themselves considerably on the rocks. From -there being no roads of buffalo, or signs of horses, I am convinced -that neither those animals, nor the aborigines of the country, ever -take this route, to go from the source of the river out of the -mountains; but that they must cross one of the chains to the right or -left, and find a smoother tract to the lower country. Were obliged to -unload our horses and carry the baggage at several places. Distance -121/2 miles.[III-20] - -_Sunday, Dec. 28th._ Marched over an open space [Pleasant Valley]; -and, from the appearance before us, concluded we were going out of the -mountains; but at night encamped at the entrance of the most -perpendicular precipices on both sides, through which the river ran -and our course lay. Distance 16 miles.[III-21] - -_Dec. 29th._ Marched; but owing to the extreme ruggedness of the road, -made but five miles.[III-22] Saw one of a new species of animal on the -mountains; ascended to kill him, but did not succeed. Finding the -impossibility of getting along with the horses, made one sled, which -with the men of three horses, carries their load [_i. e._, on which -the men dragged the loads of three horses]. - -_Dec. 30th._ Marched; but at half past one o'clock were obliged to -halt and send back for the sled loads, as the men had broken it and -could not proceed, owing to the waters running over the ice. Crossed -our horses twice on the ice. Distance eight miles.[III-23] - -_Dec. 31st._ Marched; had frequently to cross the river on the ice; -horses falling down, we were obliged to pull them over on the ice. -The river turned so much to the north as almost induced us to believe -it was the Arkansaw. Distance 103/4 miles.[III-24] - -_Jan. 1st, 1807._ The doctor and one man marched early, in order to -precede the party until they should kill a supply of provision. We had -great difficulty in getting our horses along, some of the poor animals -having nearly killed themselves in falling on the ice. Found on the -way one of the mountain rams [bighorn, _Ovis montana_], which the -doctor and Brown had killed and left in the road. Skinned it with -horns, etc. At night ascended a mountain, and discovered a prairie -ahead about eight miles, the news of which gave great joy to the -party. - -_Jan. 2d._ Labored all day, but made only one mile; many of our horses -were much wounded in falling on the rocks. Provision growing short, -left Stoute and Miller with two loads, to come on with a sled on the -ice, which was on the water in some of the coves. Finding it almost -impossible to proceed any further with the horses by the bed of the -river, ascended the mountain and immediately after were again obliged -to descend an almost perpendicular side of the mountain; in effecting -which, one horse fell down the precipice, and bruised himself so -miserably that I conceived it mercy to cause the poor animal to be -shot. Many others were nearly killed with falls received. Left two -more men with loads, and tools to make sleds. The two men we had left -in the morning had passed us. - -_Jan. 3d._ Left two more men to make sleds and come on. We pursued the -river, and with great difficulty made six miles by frequently cutting -roads on the ice, and covering it with earth, in order to go round -precipices, etc. The men left in the morning encamped with us at -night; but those of the day before we saw nothing of. This day two of -the horses became senseless from the bruises received on the rocks, -and were obliged to be left.[III-25] - -_Sunday, Jan. 4th._ We made the prairie about three o'clock, when I -detached Baroney and two soldiers with the horses, in order to find -some practicable way for them to get out of the mountains light. I -then divided the others into two parties of two men each, to make -sleds and bring on the baggage. I determined to continue down the -river alone, until I could kill some sustenance, and find the two men -who left us on the 2d inst., or the doctor and his companion; for we -had no provision, and everyone had then to depend on his own exertion -for safety and subsistence. Thus we were divided into eight different -parties, viz.: 1st. The doctor and his companion; 2d. The two men with -the first sled; 3d. The interpreter and the two men with the horses; -4th. Myself; 5th, 6th, 7th, 8th, two men each, with sleds at different -distances; all of whom, except the last, had orders, if they killed -any game, to secure some part in a conspicuous place, for their -companions in the rear. I marched about five miles on the river, which -was one continued fall through a narrow channel, with immense cliffs -on both sides.[III-26] Near night I came to a place where the rocks -were perpendicular on both sides, and there was no ice, except a -narrow border on the water. I began to look about, in order to -discover which way the doctor and his companion had managed, and to -find what had become of the two lads with the first sled, when I -discovered one of the latter climbing up the side of the rocks. I -called to him; he and his companion immediately joined me. They said -they had not known whether we were before or in the rear; that they -had eaten nothing for the last two days, and that this night they had -intended to have boiled a deer-skin to subsist on. We at length -discovered a narrow ravine, where was the trace of the doctor and his -companion; as the water had run down it and frozen hard, it was one -continuous sheet of ice. We ascended it with the utmost difficulty and -danger, loaded with the baggage. On the summit of the first ridge we -found an encampment of the doctor, and where they had killed a deer; -but they had now no meat. He afterward informed me that they had left -the greatest part of it hanging on a tree, but supposed the birds had -destroyed it. I left the boys to bring up the remainder of the -baggage, and went out in order to kill some subsistence; wounded a -deer, but the darkness of the night approaching, could not find him. I -returned hungry, weary, and dry, and had only snow to supply the calls -of nature. Distance 8 miles. - -_Jan. 5th._ I went out in the morning to hunt, while the two lads were -bringing up some of their loads still left at the foot of the -mountain. Wounded several deer, but was surprised to find I killed -none. On examining my gun discovered her bent, owing, as I suppose, to -some fall on the ice or rocks; shortly afterward received a fall on -the side of a hill, which broke her off by the breach. This put me -into _desepoir_, as I calculated on it as my grandest resource for the -great part of my party; returned to my companions sorely fatigued and -hungry. I then took a double-barreled gun and left them, with -assurances that the first animal I killed, I would return with part -for their relief. About ten o'clock rose [that is, I surmounted] the -highest summit of the [Noonan] mountain, when the unbounded spaces of -the prairie again presented themselves to my view; and from some -distant peaks I immediately recognized it to be the outlet of the -Arkansaw, which we had left nearly one month since. This was a great -mortification; but at the same time I consoled myself with the -knowledge I had acquired of the sources of La Platte and Arkansaw -rivers, with the river to the northwest, supposed to be the Pierre -Jaun [Roche Jaune, Yellowstone[III-27]], which scarcely any person but -a madman would ever purposely attempt to trace further than the -entrance of those mountains which had hitherto secured their sources -from the scrutinizing eye of civilized man. - -I arrived at the foot of the mountain and bank of the river, in the -afternoon, and at the same time discovered, on the other shore, -Baroney with the horses; they had found quite an eligible pass -[through Webster Park], and had killed one buffalo and some deer. We -proceeded to our old camp [Canyon City], which we had left the 10th of -December, and reoccupied it. Saw the traces of the doctor and his -companion, but could not discover their retreat. This was my -birth-day, and most fervently did I hope never to pass another so -miserably. Fired a gun off as a signal for the doctor. Distance seven -miles. - -_Jan. 6th._ Dispatched the two soldiers back with some provision to -meet the first lads and assist them on, and sent the interpreter -hunting. About eight o'clock the doctor came in, having seen some of -the men. He had been confined to the camp for one or two days, by a -vertigo which proceeded from some berries he had eaten on the -mountains. His companion brought down six deer, which they had at -their camp; thus we again began to be out of danger of starving. In -the afternoon some of the men arrived, and part were immediately -returned with provisions, etc. Killed three deer. - -_Jan. 7th._ Sent more men back to assist in the rear, and to carry the -poor fellows provisions; at the same time kept Baroney and one man -hunting. Killed three deer. - -_Jan. 8th._ Some of the different parties arrived. Put one man to -stocking my rifle; others were sent back to assist up the rear. Killed -two deer. - -_Jan. 9th._ The whole party were once more joined together, when we -felt comparatively happy, notwithstanding the great mortification I -experienced at having been so egregiously deceived as to the Red -river. I now felt at considerable loss how to proceed, as any idea of -services at that time from my horses was entirely preposterous. After -various plans formed and rejected, and the most mature deliberation, -I determined to build a small place for defense and deposit;[III-28] -leave part of the baggage, horses, my interpreter, and one man -[Smith]; and with the balance, our packs of Indian presents, -ammunition, tools, etc., on our backs, cross the mountains on foot, -find the Red river, and then send back a party to conduct the horses -and baggage by the most eligible route we could discover; by which -time the horses would be so recovered as to be able to endure the -fatigues of the march. In consequence of this determination, some were -put to constructing the blockhouse, some to hunting, some to taking -care of horses, etc. I myself made preparations to pursue a course of -observations which would enable me to ascertain the latitude and -longitude of this situation, which I conceived to be an important one. -Killed three deer. - -_Jan. 10th._ Killed five deer. Took equal altitudes and angular -distances of two stars, etc., but do not now recollect which. Killed -three deer. - -_Sunday, Jan. 11th._ Ascertained the latitude and took the angular -distances of some stars. Killed four deer. - -_Jan. 12th._ Prepared the baggage for a march by separating it, etc. -Observations continued. - -_Jan. 13th._ Weighed out each man's pack. This day I obtained the -angle between sun and moon, which I conceived the most correct way I -possessed of ascertaining the longitude, as an immersion and emersion -of Jupiter's satellites could not be obtained. Killed four deer. - -_Jan. 14th._ We marched our party, consisting of 18 [read 12][III-29] -soldiers, the doctor, and myself, each of us carrying 45 pounds and as -much provision as he thought proper, which, with arms, etc., made on -an average 70 pounds. Left Baroney and one man, Patrick Smith [in the -blockhouse at Canyon City]. - -We crossed the first ridge, leaving the main branch of the river to -the north of us, and struck on the south fork [Grape creek], on which -we encamped, intending to pursue it through the mountains, as its -course was more southerly. Distance 13 miles.[III-30] - -_Jan. 15th._ Followed up this branch and passed the main ridge of what -I term the Blue [now Wet] mountains. Halted early. The doctor, myself, -and one hunter went out with our guns; each killed a deer, and brought -them into camp. Distance 19 miles.[III-31] - -_Jan. 16th._ Marched up the [Grape] creek all day. Encamped early, as -it was snowing. I went out to hunt, but killed nothing. Deer on the -hill; the [Wet] mountains lessening. Distance 18 miles.[III-32] - -_Jan. 17th._ Marched about four miles, when the great White -mountain[III-33] presented itself before us, in sight of which we had -been for more than one month, and through which we supposed lay the -long-sought Red river. We now left the [Grape] creek on the north of -us, and bore away more east, to a low place in the [Wet] mountains. -About sunset we came to the edge of a prairie which bounded the foot -of the [Wet] mountains. As there was no wood or water where we were, -and the woods from the skirts of the [Sangre de Cristo] mountains -appeared to be at no great distance, I thought proper to march for it; -in the middle of said prairie crossed the creek [recrossed Grape creek -from N. E. to S. W.], which now bore east. Here we all got our feet -wet. The night commenced extremely cold, when we halted at the woods -at eight o'clock, for encampment. After getting fires made, we -discovered that the feet of nine of our men were frozen; and, to add -to this misfortune, both of those whom we called hunters were among -the number. This night we had no provision. Reaumer's [Reaumur's] -thermometer stood at 181/2 deg. below zero. Distance 28 miles.[III-34] - -_Sunday, Jan. 18th._ We started two of the men least injured; the -doctor and myself, who fortunately were untouched by the frost, also -went out to hunt something to preserve existence. Near evening we -wounded a buffalo with three balls, but had the mortification to see -him run off notwithstanding. We concluded it was useless to go home to -add to the general gloom, and went amongst some rocks, where we -encamped and sat up all night; from the intense cold it was impossible -to sleep. Hungry and without cover. - -_Jan. 19th._ We again took the field, and after crawling about one -mile in the snow, got to shoot eight times among a gang of buffalo; we -could plainly perceive two or three to be badly wounded, but by -accident they took the wind of us, and to our great mortification all -were able to run off. By this time I had become extremely weak and -faint, it being the fourth day since we had received sustenance, all -of which we were marching hard, and the last night had scarcely closed -our eyes to sleep. We were inclining our course to a point of woods, -determined to remain absent and die by ourselves rather than return to -our camp and behold the misery of our poor lads, when we discovered a -gang of buffalo coming along at some distance. With great exertions I -made out to run and place myself behind some cedars. By the greatest -of good luck, the first shot stopped one, which we killed in three -more shots; and by the dusk had cut each of us a heavy load, with -which we determined immediately to proceed to the camp, in order to -relieve the anxiety of our men and carry the poor fellows some food. - -We arrived there about twelve o'clock, and when I threw my load down, -it was with difficulty I prevented myself from falling; I was attacked -with a giddiness of the head, which lasted for some minutes. On the -countenances of the men was not a frown, nor a desponding eye; all -seemed happy to hail their officer and companions, yet not a mouthful -had they eaten for four days. On demanding what were their thoughts, -the sergeant replied that on the morrow the most robust had determined -to set out in search of us and not return unless they found us, or -killed something to preserve the lives of their starving companions. - -_Jan. 20th._ The doctor and all the men able to march; returned to the -buffalo to bring in the balance of the meat. On examining the feet of -those who were frozen we found it impossible for two of them [Sparks -and Dougherty] to proceed, and two others only without loads, by the -help of a stick. One of the former was my waiter, a promising young -lad of twenty, whose feet were so badly frozen as to present every -probability of losing them. The doctor and party returned toward -evening, loaded with the buffalo meat. - -_Jan. 21st._ This day we separated the four loads which we intended to -leave, and took them some distance from camp, where we secured them. I -went up to the foot of the mountain to see what prospect there was of -being able to cross it, but had not more than fairly arrived at its -base when I found the snow four or five feet deep; this obliged me to -determine to proceed and _cotoyer_ the mountain [keep alongside the -base of the Sangre de Cristo range] to the south, where it appeared -lower, until we found a place where we could cross. - -_Jan. 22d._ I furnished the two poor lads who were to remain with -ammunition, made use of every argument in my power to encourage them -to have fortitude to resist their fate, and gave them assurance of my -sending relief as soon as possible. We parted, but not without tears. - -We pursued our march, taking merely sufficient provisions for one -meal, in order to leave as much as possible for the two poor fellows -who remained. They were John Sparks and Thomas Dougherty. We went on -eight miles and encamped on a little creek,[III-35] which came down -from the mountains. At three o'clock went out to hunt, but killed -nothing. Little snow. - -_Jan. 23d._ After showing the sergeant a point to steer for, the -doctor and myself proceeded on ahead in hopes to kill something, as we -were again without victuals. About one o'clock it commenced snowing -very hard; we retreated to a small copse of pine, where we constructed -a camp to shelter us; and, as it was time the party should arrive, we -sallied forth to search for them. We separated, and had not marched -more than one or two miles, when I found it impossible to keep any -course without the compass continually in my hand, and then was not -able to see more than 10 yards. I began to perceive the difficulty -even of finding the way back to our camp; and I can scarcely conceive -a more dreadful idea than remaining on the wild, where inevitable -death must have ensued. It was with great pleasure I again reached the -camp, where I found the doctor had arrived before me. We lay down and -strove to dissipate the ideas of hunger and misery by thoughts of our -far distant homes and relatives. Distance eight miles.[III-36] - -_Jan. 24th._ We sallied out in the morning, and shortly after -perceived our little band marching through the snow about two and a -half feet deep, silent and with downcast countenances. We joined them -and learned that, finding the snow to fall so thickly that it was -impossible to proceed, they had encamped about one o'clock the -preceding day. As I found all the buffalo had quit the plains, I -determined to attempt the traverse of the mountain, in which we -persevered until the snow became so deep that it was impossible to -proceed; when I again turned my face to the plain, and for the first -time in the voyage found myself discouraged. - -This was also the first time I heard a man express himself in a -seditious manner; he [John Brown] exclaimed that "it was more than -human nature could bear, to march three days without sustenance, -through snows three feet deep, and carry burdens only fit for horses," -etc. As I knew very well the fidelity and attachment of the majority -of the men, and even of this poor fellow (only he could not endure -fasting), and that it was in my power to chastise him when I thought -proper, I passed it unnoticed for the moment, determined to notice it -at a more auspicious time. - -We dragged our weary and emaciated limbs along until about ten -o'clock. The doctor and myself, who were in advance, discovered some -buffalo on the plain, when we left our loads on the snow, and gave -orders to proceed to the nearest woods to encamp. We went in pursuit -of the buffalo, which were on the move. The doctor, who was then less -reduced than myself, ran and got behind a hill and shot one down, -which stopped the remainder. We crawled up to the dead one and shot -from him as many as 12 or 14 times among the gang, when they removed -out of sight. We then proceeded to butcher the one we had shot; and -after procuring each of us a load of the meat, we marched for the -camp, the smoke of which was in view. We arrived at the camp, to the -great joy of our brave lads, who immediately feasted sumptuously. - -After our repast I sent for the lad who had presumed to speak -discontentedly in the course of the day, and addressed him to the -following effect: "Brown, you this day presumed to make use of -language which was seditious, and mutinous. I then passed it over, -pitying your situation, and attributing it to your distress rather -than your inclination to sow discontent among the party. Had I -reserved provisions for ourselves, while you were starving; had we -been marching along light and at our ease, while you were weighed down -with your burden; then you would have had some pretext for your -observations. But when we were equally hungry, weary, emaciated, and -charged with burdens which I believe my natural strength is less able -to bear than any man's in the party; when we were always foremost in -breaking the road, in reconnoitering, and in the fatigues of the -chase, it was the height of ingratitude in you to let an expression -escape which was indicative of discontent. Your ready compliance and -firm perseverance I had reason to expect, as the leader of men and my -companions in miseries and dangers. But your duty as a soldier called -on your obedience to your officer, and a prohibition of such language, -which for this time I will pardon; but assure you, should it ever be -repeated, by instant death will I avenge your ingratitude and punish -your disobedience. I take this opportunity likewise to assure you, -soldiers generally, of my thanks for the obedience, perseverance, and -ready contempt of every danger which you have generally evinced. I -assure you nothing shall be wanting, on my part, to procure you the -rewards of our government and the gratitude of your countrymen." They -all appeared very much affected, and retired with assurances of -perseverance in duty, etc. Distance nine miles.[III-37] - -_Sunday, Jan. 25th._ I determined never again to march with so little -provision on hand; as, had the storm continued one day longer, the -animals would have continued in the mountains; we should have become -so weak as not to be able to hunt, and of course have perished. The -doctor went out with the boys, and they secured three of the buffalo; -we commenced bringing in the meat, at which we continued all day. - -_Jan. 26th._ Got in all the meat and dried it on a scaffold, intending -to take as much as possible along and leave one of my frozen lads with -the balance, as a deposit for the parties who might return for their -baggage, etc., on their way back to Baroney's camp. - -_Jan. 27th._ We marched, determined to cross the [Sangre de Cristo] -mountains, leaving Menaugh[III-38] encamped with our deposit. After a -bad day's march through snows, in some places three feet deep, we -struck on a brook which led west. This I followed down, and shortly -came to a small stream [Sand creek], running west, which we hailed -with fervency as the waters of Red river. Saw some sign of elk. -Distance 14 miles.[III-39] - -_Jan. 28th._ Followed down the ravine and discovered after some time -that there had been a road cut out; on many trees were various -hieroglyphics painted. After marching some miles, we discovered -through the lengthy vista, at a distance, another [the San Juan] -chain of mountains; and nearer by, at the foot of the White mountains -which we were then descending, sandy hills [the Dunes]. We marched on -the outlet of the mountains, left the sandy desert to our right, and -kept down between it and the mountain. When we encamped, I ascended -one of the largest hills of sand, and with my glass could discover a -large river [the Rio Grande], flowing nearly N. by W. and S. by E., -through the plain [San Luis valley]. This river came out of the third -chain of mountains, about N. 75 deg. W.; the prairie between the two -mountains bore nearly N. and S. I returned to camp with the news of my -discovery. The sand-hills extended up and down the foot of the White -mountains about 15 miles, and appeared to be about five miles in -width. Their appearance was exactly that of the sea in a storm, except -as to color, not the least sign of vegetation existing thereon. -Distance 15 miles.[III-40] - -_Jan. 29th._ Finding the distance too great to attempt crossing -immediately to the river, in a direct line, we marched obliquely to a -copse of woods, which made down a considerable distance from the -mountains. Saw sign of horses. Distance 17 miles.[III-41] - -_Jan. 30th._ We marched hard, and arrived in the evening on the banks -of the Rio del Norte, then supposed to be Red river. Distance 24 -miles.[III-42] - -_Jan. 31st._ As there was no timber here we determined on descending -until we found timber, in order to make transports to descend the -river with, where we might establish a position that four or five -might defend against the insolence, cupidity, and barbarity of the -savages, while the others returned to assist the poor fellows who had -been left behind at different points. We descended 18 [13] miles, when -we met a large west branch [Rio Conejos], emptying into the main -stream, about five miles up which branch we took our station. Killed -one deer. Distance 18 miles.[III-43] - -_Sunday, Feb. 1st._ Laid out the place for our works, and went out -hunting. - -_Feb. 2d._ The doctor and myself went out to hunt, and with great -difficulty, by night, at the distance of seven or eight miles from -camp, killed one deer, which we carried in. - -_Feb. 3d._ Spent in reading, etc. - -_Feb. 4th._ Went out hunting, but could not kill anything. One of my -men killed a deer. - -_Feb. 5th._ The doctor and myself went out to hunt. After chasing -some deer for several hours, without success, we ascended a high hill -which lay south of our camp, whence we had a view of all the prairies -and rivers to the north of us. It was at the same time one of the most -sublime and beautiful inland prospects ever presented to the eyes of -man. The prairie, lying nearly north and south, was probably 60 miles -by 45. The main river, bursting out of the western mountain, and -meeting from the northeast a large branch [San Luis creek] which -divides the chain of mountains, proceeds down the prairie, making -many large and beautiful islands, one of which I judge contains -100,000 acres of land, all meadow ground, covered with innumerable -herds of deer. About six miles from the mountains [San Luis hills] -which cross the prairie at the south end, a branch [Alamosa or La Jara -creek] of 12 steps wide pays its tribute to the main stream from the -west course. Due W. 12 deg.. N. 75 deg.. W. 6 deg. [_sic_]. Four miles below is a -stream [Trinchera creek] of the same size, which enters on the east -and up which was a large road; its general course is N. 65 deg. E. From -the entrance of this was about three miles, down to the junction of -the west fork [Rio Conejos], which waters the foot of the hill on the -north, while the main river wound along its meanders on the east. In -short, this view combined the sublime and the beautiful. The great and -lofty mountains, covered with eternal snows, seemed to surround the -luxuriant vale, crowned with perennial flowers, like a terrestrial -paradise shut out from the view of man. - -_Feb. 6th._ The doctor, having some pecuniary demands in the province -of New Mexico, conceived this to be the most eligible point for him to -go in, and return previous to all my party having joined me from the -Arkansaw, and that I was prepared to descend to Nachitoches. He -therefore this day made his preparations for marching to-morrow. I -went out hunting, and killed at three miles' distance a deer which, -with great difficulty, I brought in whole. We continued to go on with -the works of our stockade or breastwork, which was situated on the -north bank of the west branch, about five miles from its junction with -the main river, and was on a strong plan. - -The stockade was situated in a small prairie on the west fork [Conejos -river] of the Rio [Grande] del Norte. The south flank joined the edge -of the river, which at that place was not fordable; the east and west -curtains were flanked by bastions in the northeast and northwest -angles, which likewise flanked the curtain of the north side of the -work. The stockade from the center of the angle of the bastions was -36 feet square. Heavy cottonwood logs, about two feet in diameter, -were laid up all round about six feet, after which lighter ones, until -we made it 12 feet in height; these logs were joined together by a lap -of about two feet at each end. We then dug a small ditch on the inside -all round, making it perpendicular on the internal side and sloping -next the work. In this ditch we planted small stakes, about six inches -in diameter, sharpened at the upper end to a nice point, and slanted -them over the top of the work, giving them about 21/2 feet projection. -We then secured them above and below in that position, which formed a -small pointed frise, which must have been removed before the works -could have been scaled. Lastly, we had dug a ditch round the whole, -four feet wide, and let the water in all round. The earth taken out, -being thrown against the work, formed an excellent rampart against -small-arms, three or four feet high. Our mode of getting in was to -crawl over the ditch on a plank, and into a small hole sunk below the -level of the work near the river for that purpose. Our port-holes were -pierced about eight feet from the ground, and a platform was prepared -to shoot from. Thus fortified, I should not have had the least -hesitation of putting the 100 Spanish horse at defiance until the -first or second night, and then to have made our escape under cover of -the darkness; or made a sally and dispersed them, when resting under a -full confidence of our being panic-struck by their numbers and force. - -_Feb. 7th._ The doctor marched alone for Santa Fe; and as it was -uncertain whether this gentleman would ever join me again, I at that -time committed to paper the following testimonial of respect for his -good qualities, which I do not, at this time, feel any disposition to -efface. He has had the benefit of a liberal education, without having -spent his time, as too many of our gentlemen do in colleges, in -skimming on the surfaces of sciences, without ever endeavoring to make -themselves masters of the solid foundations. Robinson studied and -reasoned; with these qualifications he possessed a liberality of mind -too great ever to reject an hypothesis because it was not agreeable to -the dogmas of the schools; or adopt it because it had all the eclat of -novelty. His soul could conceive great actions, and his hand was ready -to achieve them; in short, it may truly be said that nothing was above -his genius, nor anything so minute that he conceived it entirely -unworthy of consideration. As a gentleman and companion in dangers, -difficulties, and hardships, I in particular, and the expedition -generally, owe much to his exertions. - -The demands which Dr. Robinson had on persons in New Mexico, although -legitimate, were in some degree spurious _in his hands_.[III-44] The -circumstances were as follows: In the year 1804, William Morrison, -Esq., an enterprising merchant of Kaskaskias, sent a man by the name -of Babtiste La Lande, a Creole of the country, up the Missouri and La -Platte, directing him if possible to push into Santa Fe. He sent in -Indians, and the Spaniards came out with horses and carried him and -his goods into the province. Finding that he sold the goods high, had -land offered him, and the women kind, he concluded to expatriate -himself and convert the property of Morrison to his own benefit. When -I was about to sail, Morrison, conceiving that it was possible that I -might meet some Spanish factors on the Red river, intrusted me with -the claim, in order, if they were acquainted with La Lande, I might -negotiate the thing with some of them. When on the frontiers, the idea -suggested itself to us of making this claim a pretext for Robinson to -visit Santa Fe. We therefore gave it the proper appearance, and he -marched for that place. Our views were to gain a knowledge of the -country, the prospect of trade, force, etc.; while, at the same time, -our treaties with Spain guaranteed to him, as a citizen of the United -States, the right of seeking the recovery of all just debts or demands -before the legal and authorized tribunals of the country, as a -franchised inhabitant of the same, as specified in the 22d article of -said treaty. - -In the evening I dispatched Corporal Jackson with four men, to recross -the mountains, in order to bring in the baggage left with the frozen -lads, and to see if they were yet able to come on. This detachment -left me with four men only, two of whom had their feet frozen; they -were employed in finishing the stockade, and myself to support them by -the chase. - -_Sunday, Feb. 8th._ Refreshing my memory as to the French grammar, and -overseeing the works. - -_Feb. 9th._ Hunting, etc. - -_Feb. 10th._ Read and labored at our works. - -_Feb. 11th._ Hunting. Killed three deer. - -_Feb. 12th._ Studying. - -_Feb. 13th._ Hunting. Killed two deer. - -_Feb. 14th._ Crossed the [Conejos] river and examined the numerous -springs which issued from the foot of the hill, opposite our camp. -These were so strongly impregnated with mineral qualities, as not only -to keep clear of ice previous to their joining the main branch, but to -keep open the west fork until its junction with the main river and for -a few miles afterward, while all the other branches in the -neighborhood were bound in the adamantine chains of winter. - -_Sunday, Feb. 15th._ Reading, etc. Works going on. - -_Feb. 16th._ I took one man and went out hunting; about six miles from -the post, shot and wounded a deer. - -Immediately afterward I discovered two horsemen rising the summit of a -hill, about half a mile to our right. As my orders were to avoid -giving alarm or offense to the Spanish government of New Mexico, I -endeavored to avoid them at first; but when we attempted to retreat, -they pursued us at full charge, flourishing their lances; and when we -advanced, they would retire as fast as their horses could carry them. -Seeing this, we got in a small ravine, in hopes to decoy them near -enough to oblige them to come to a parley; which happened agreeably to -our desires, as they came on, hunting us with great caution. We -suffered them to get within 40 yards--where we had allured them; but -they were about running off again, when I ordered the soldier to lay -down his arms and walk toward them, at the same time standing ready -with my rifle to kill either who should lift an arm in an hostile -manner. I then hollowed to them that we were "Americans," and -"friends," which were almost the only two words I knew in the Spanish -language; when, with great signs of fear, they came up, and proved to -be a Spanish dragoon and a civilized Indian, armed after their manner, -of which we see a description in the Essai Militaire.[III-45] We were -jealous of our arms on both sides, and acted with great precaution. - -They informed me that this was the fourth day since they had left -Santa Fe; that Robinson had arrived there, and been received with -great kindness by the governor. As I knew them to be spies, I thought -proper to inform them merely that I was about to descend the river to -Nachitoches. We sat on the ground a long time, till, finding they were -determined not to leave us, we rose and bade them adieu. But they -demanded where our camp was; and, finding they were not about to leave -us, I thought it most proper to take them with me, thinking we were on -Red river, and of course in the territory claimed by the United -States.[III-46] - -We took the road to my fort, and as they were on horseback, they -traveled rather faster than myself; they were halted by the sentinel, -and immediately retreated much surprised. When I came up, I took them -in, and then explained to them, as well as possible, my intention of -descending the river to Nachitoches; but at the same time told them -that if Governor Allencaster would send out an officer with an -interpreter who spoke French or English, I would do myself the -pleasure to give his Excellency every reasonable satisfaction as to my -intentions in coming on his frontiers. They informed me that on the -second day they would be in Santa Fe, but were careful never to -suggest an idea of my being on the Rio del Norte. As they concluded, I -did not think as I spoke. They were very anxious to ascertain our -numbers, etc.; seeing only five men here, they could not believe we -came without horses. To this I did not think proper to give them any -satisfaction, giving them to understand we were in many parties, etc. - -_Feb. 17th._ In the morning, our two Spanish visitors departed, after -I had made them some trifling presents, with which they seemed highly -delighted. After their departure, we commenced working at our little -stockade, as I thought it probable the governor might dispute my right -to descend the Red river, and send out Indians, or some light party, -to attack us; I therefore determined to be as much prepared to receive -them as possible. - -This evening the corporal and three of the [four] men arrived, who had -been sent back to the camp of the frozen lads. They informed me that -two men would arrive the next day, one of whom was Menaugh, who had -been left alone on the 27th of January [and the other of whom was the -fourth one of the soldiers who had gone as a relief-party under -Corporal Jackson]; but that the other two, Dougherty and Sparks, were -unable to come in. They said that they [Dougherty and Sparks] had -hailed them [the relief-party] with tears of joy, and were in despair -when they again left them, with the chance of never seeing them more. -They sent on to me some of the bones taken out of their feet, and -conjured me, by all that was sacred, not to leave them to perish far -from the civilized world. Ah! little did they know my heart, if they -could suspect me of conduct so ungenerous. No! before they should be -left, I would for months have carried the end of a litter, in order to -secure them the happiness of once more seeing their native homes, and -being received in the bosom of a grateful country. Thus those poor -lads are to be invalids for life, made infirm at the commencement of -manhood and in the prime of their course, doomed to pass the -remainder of their days in misery and want. For what is the pension? -Not sufficient to buy a man his victuals. What man would even lose the -smallest of his joints for such a trifling pittance? - -_Feb. 18th._ The other two boys [Menaugh and the fourth member of the -relief-party] arrived. In the evening I ordered the sergeant [Meek] -and one man [Miller] to prepare to march to-morrow for the [stockade -on the] Arkansaw, where we had left our interpreter [Vasquez, with -Patrick Smith], horses, etc., to conduct them on, and on his return to -bring the two lads [Dougherty and Sparks] who were still in the -mountains. - -_Feb. 19th._ Sergeant William E. Meek marched with one man, whose name -was Theodore Miller, and I took three other men to accompany him some -distance, in order to point out to him a pass[III-47] in the mountain -which I conceived more eligible for horses than the one by which we -came. I must here remark the effect of habit, discipline, and example, -in two soldiers soliciting a command of more than 180 miles, over two -great ridges of mountains covered with snow, inhabited by bands of -unknown savages, in the interest of a nation with which we were not on -the best understanding. To perform this journey, each had about ten -pounds of venison. Only let me ask, What would our soldiers generally -think, on being ordered on such a tour, thus equipped? Yet those men -volunteered it with others, and were chosen; for which they thought -themselves highly honored. We accompanied them about six miles, and -pointed out the pass alluded to, in a particular manner. But the -corporal afterward reported that the new one which I obliged him to -take was impassable, he having been three days in snows nearly middle -deep. - -We then separated and, having killed a deer, sent one of the men back -to the fort with it. With the other two, I kept on my exploring trip -down the river on the east side, at some leagues from its banks, -intending to return up it. At nine o'clock at night we encamped on a -small creek[III-48] which emptied into the river from a nearly due -east course. - -_Feb. 20th._ We marched down the river for a few hours; but, seeing no -fresh sign of persons, or any other object to attract our attention, -took up our route for the fort. Discovered the sign of horses and men -on the shore. We arrived after night and found all well. - -_Feb. 21st._ As I was suspicious that possibly some party of Indians -might be harboring round, I gave particular orders to my men, if they -discovered any people, to endeavor to retreat undiscovered; but if -not, never to run, and not to suffer themselves to be disarmed or -taken prisoners, but conduct whatever party discovered them, if they -could not escape, to the fort. - -_Sunday, Feb. 22d._ As I began to think it was time we received a -visit from the Spaniards or their emissaries, I established a lookout -guard on the top of a hill all day, and at night a sentinel in a -bastion on the land side. Studying, reading, and working at our ditch -to bring the river round the works. - -_Feb. 23d._ Reading, writing, etc.; the men at their usual work. - -_Feb. 24th._ Took one man with me and went out on the Spanish road -hunting; killed one deer and wounded several others. As we were a -great distance from the fort, we encamped near the road all night. Saw -several signs of horses. - -_Feb. 25th._ Killed two more deer, when we marched for our post. Took -all three of the deer with us, and arrived about nine o'clock at -night, as much fatigued as ever I was in my life. Our arrival -dissipated the anxiety of the men, who began to be apprehensive we -were taken or killed by some of the savages. - -_Feb. 26th._ In the morning was apprized of the approach of strangers -by the report of a gun from my lookout guard. Immediately afterward -two Frenchmen arrived. My sentinel halted them, and ordered them to be -admitted, after some questions. They informed me that his Excellency, -Governor [Joachin R.] Allencaster, had heard it was the intention of -the Utah Indians to attack me; had detached an officer with 50 -dragoons to come out and protect me; and that they would be here in -two days. To this I made no reply: but shortly after the party came in -sight, to the number, as I afterward learned, of 50 dragoons and 50 -mounted militia of the province, armed in the same manner with lances, -escopates,[III-49] and pistols. My sentinel halted them at the -distance of about 50 yards. I had the works manned. I thought it most -proper to send out the two Frenchmen to inform the commanding officer -that it was my request he should leave his party in the small copse of -woods where he was halted, and that I would meet him myself in the -prairie in which our work was situated. This I did, with my sword on -me only. I was then introduced to Don Ignatio Saltelo and Don -Bartholemew Fernandez, two lieutenants, the former the commandant of -the party. I gave them an invitation to enter the works, but requested -the troops might remain where they were. This was complied with. When -they came round and discovered that to enter they were obliged to -crawl on their bellies over a small draw-bridge, they appeared -astonished, but entered without further hesitation. - -We first breakfasted on deer, meal, goose, and some biscuit which the -civilized Indian who came out as a spy had brought me. After breakfast -the commanding officer addressed me as follows: - -"Sir, the governor of New Mexico, being informed you had missed your -route, ordered me to offer you, in his name, mules, horses, money, or -whatever you might stand in need of to conduct you to the head of Red -river; as from Santa Fe to where it is sometimes navigable is eight -days' journey, and we have guides and the routes of the traders to -conduct us." - -"What," said I, interrupting him, "is not this the Red river?" - -"No, Sir! The Rio del Norte." - -I immediately ordered my flag to be taken down and rolled up, feeling -how sensibly I had committed myself in entering their territory, and -conscious that they must have positive orders to take me in. - -He now added that he "had provided 100 mules and horses to take in my -party and baggage, and how anxious his Excellency was to see me at -Santa Fe." I stated to him the absence of my sergeant [Meek, with -Miller], the situation of the balance of the party [Vasquez and Smith -in the stockade on the Arkansaw; Dougherty and Sparks in the mountains -with frozen feet], and that my orders would not justify my entering -into the Spanish territory. He urged still further, until I began to -feel myself a little heated in the argument; and told him, in a -peremptory style, that I would not go until the arrival of my sergeant -with the balance of the party. He replied, "that there was not the -least restraint to be used; that it was only necessary his Excellency -should receive an explanation of my business on his frontier; that I -could go now, or on the arrival of my party; that, if none went in at -present, he should be obliged to send in for provisions; but that, if -I would now march, he would leave an Indian interpreter and an escort -of dragoons to conduct the sergeant [Meek, and the five other -absentees--Miller of the relief-party, Vasquez, Smith, Sparks, -Dougherty] into Santa Fe." His mildness induced me to tell him that I -would march, but must leave two men [Jackson and Carter] to meet the -sergeant and party, to instruct him as to coming in, as he never would -come without a fight, if not ordered. - -I was induced to consent to this measure by the conviction that the -officer had positive orders to bring me in; and as I had no orders to -commit hostilities, and indeed had committed myself, although -innocently, by violating their territory, I conceived it would appear -better to show a will to come to an explanation than to be in any way -constrained; yet my situation was so eligible, and I could so easily -have put them at defiance, that it was with great reluctance I -suffered all our labor to be lost without once trying the efficacy of -it. My compliance seemed to spread general joy through their party, as -soon as it was communicated; but it appeared to be different with my -men, who wished to have "a little dust," as they expressed themselves, -and were likewise fearful of treachery. - -My determination being once taken, I gave permission for the Spanish -lieutenant's men to come to the outside of the works, and some of mine -to go out and see them. The hospitality and goodness of the Creoles -and Metifs began to manifest itself by their producing their provision -and giving it to my men, covering them with their blankets, etc. - -After writing orders to my sergeant [Meek], and leaving them with my -corporal [Jackson] and one private [not named (Carter)], who were to -remain, we[III-50] sallied forth, mounted our horses, and went up the -river about 12 miles, to a place where the Spanish officers had made a -camp deposit, whence we sent down mules for our baggage, etc. - -WASHINGTON CITY, January, 1808. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[III-1] Crossing the river from S. to N. above the mouth of Turkey -cr., somewhere about the place now called Swallows, below the mouth of -Rush cr., and where the bluffs come down to the Arkansaw. The D. and -R. G. R. R. now makes a crossing a little higher up. Passing up the N. -bank, opp. Red cr., S., the party continued to Carlisle Springs and -camped in that vicinity, just over the border of Fremont Co. Red cr. -is lettered "Bed" on the G. L. O. map of 1892. - -[III-2] The excessive estimate of the height of Pike's Peak, 18,581 -instead of 14,147, was in part due to a misapprehension of the -elevation of the prairie whence the observation was taken. This was -assumed to be 8,000, but is really little, if any, over 5,000. The -altitude of Pico de Teyde, the volcanic Peak of Teneriffe, in the -Canary isls., is given on good authority as 12,200; and that of Mt. -Chimborazo, one of the highest peaks in the Ecuadorean Andes, is -placed at 20,498 feet by Whymper, who ascended it in 1880. - -[III-3] Passing Beaver cr., N., with places called Beaver Depot and -Beaver at and near its mouth; passing opp. Hardscrabble cr., S., with -a place called Adobe at its mouth, where one of the two railroads now -makes a crossing; continuing up N. bank, past Ute or Brush Hollow cr., -N., and Eight Mile cr., N., to camp below Six Mile cr., N., about -opposite the mouth of Coal cr., S., where is now the town of Florence. - -[III-4] Passing opposite mouth of Oak cr., S., Six Mile cr., N., and -Chandler cr., S., then coming to the "bad place of falling rocks," -which is where a bluff point comes down to the river--all these places -within 2 or 3 m. of camp; and continuing past Oil cr., N., to camp -within the present limits of Canyon City, Fremont Co. This is already a -considerable village, and is growing. It nestles directly at the foot -of the mountains, under the shadow of Noonan's and Fremont's Peaks, -and derives its name from the remarkable formation which the text -presently describes. This is the Grand Canyon of the Arkansaw, a part -of which is well known to tourists as the "Royal Gorge," because it -has been exploited so much on the folders of the D. and R. G. R. R. -But it is worthy of exploitation, and does not disappoint the -expectations raised by the advertisements of the "scenic line of the -world." Canyon City is almost in the very jaws of this vast chasm, -through which the Arkansaw has forced its way to issuance on the -plains. It was practically impassable, even afoot, until a way was -hewn and blasted for the railroad which now traverses its whole -length. Both trails which lead west from Canyon City get around the -terrible place; one on the north starts up Sand cr., past Noonan's and -Fremont's Peaks, and swings around to Parkdale at the head of the -canyon; and the other, on the south, crosses Grape cr., traverses -Webster Park, and comes down Copper cr. to Parkdale. Next after -Pueblo, the basis of the Pike's Peak trip, as we have seen, Canyon City -is the most notable place on Pike's Arkansaw route. The party stops -here awhile to scout about, before starting for South Park; and to -this place they return afterward, build a blockhouse, leave two men, -and start on their perilous adventures by way of Grape cr. to the -Sangre de Cristo range and so to the Rio Grande. - -[III-5] One of these is, of course, the main Arkansaw, in the Royal -Gorge; the other, on the left, or S., is Grape cr., which runs through -the Wet mts. to its confluence with the Arkansaw a mile or so above -Canyon City, under Noonan's Peak. Grape cr. used to be called Pike's -fork of the Arkansaw, as by Gregg, 1844; but this name lapsed. -Bringing it in for a moment, we find the "forks" of the Arkansaw to -be: 1st fork of Pike, Purgatory r.; 2d fork of Pike, Huerfano r.; 3d -fork of Pike, St. Charles r.; Grand forks of Pike, confluence of -Fountain r. with the Arkansaw; Pike's fork of some books, Grape cr. -From his present position at Canyon City, Pike explores the Royal Gorge -and Grape cr. to some little extent, and abandons them both; he scouts -about for the Spanish trail, and having found it, as he supposes, -starts N., up Oil cr., very likely by the present road from the town -to that stream. - -[III-6] A mountain trail with no course or distance given is not -encouraging to follow. In earlier studies of Pike, I had supposed he -reached South Park by way of Currant cr., as he might have done. But -no doubt remains in my mind that he took the Oil Creek route. If we -regard his map attentively, we see that he went up along a large creek -which he fetches into the Arkansaw _below_ the blockhouse he built on -his return to Canyon City, and which is certainly Oil cr. Camp of Dec. -10th is therefore in a "dry ravine" within "one mile" of Oil -cr.--perhaps at the first ravine above where Wilson cr. falls in from -the left, or on Wilson cr. itself. Oil cr. is a very well known -stream, on the banks of which oil works have been established, and at -whose mouth is a place called Reno, about 4 m. below Canyon City. It -heads by two main branches and many small tributaries in the mountains -S. of Ute Pass, W. of Pike's Peak, and about Saddle and Thirty-nine -Mile mt., and runs S. about 50 m. into the Arkansaw. Pike goes up Oil -cr. and takes the western one of its two main branches, crosses a -divide, and strikes the South Platte r. in South Park. - -[III-7] Pike has gone N. from Canyon City some 30 or 35 m., having Oil -cr. on his right, and having crossed certain of its tributaries from -the west known as Wilson, South Oil, and High creeks. He is now camped -on West Oil cr. (the western one of the two main branches), at or near -a place called Truro. This is a sufficiently well known locality, in a -nest of mountains whence Oil cr. gathers several affluents from -various directions. On another branch of the creek is the place called -Alnwick, near where Riggs used to have his ranch, or in the same -place. West Oil cr. is also called Ten Mile cr.; another small stream -is Martin's or Slate cr. Some of the surrounding points are: Mt. -Pisgah, 10,322 or 10,487 feet high; Rhyolite Peak, 10,860; Dome Rock -or the Needle, 9,463 feet--these on Pike's right as he faces N., and -S. W. to W. of his peak; while on his left are in succession: Iron -Knoll or Trachyte Knob (lettered "Trackite" on G. L. O. map, 1892); -Saddle mt.; Thirty-nine Mile mt., 11,000 feet; Chalcedony Buttes, -10,400 and 10,200 feet. Now the usual way out of this place is N. by -Alnwick or Rigg's ranch, between Dome Rock and Saddle mt., over a -divide about 9,200 feet high, known as Two Creek or Twin Creek Pass, -which fetches out on S. Platte waters at Florissant, on the W. border -of El Paso Co.; but Pike takes a route to the left, up West Oil or Ten -Mile cr. - -[III-8] Between Arkansan and Missourian waters, in a broad sense; -between the Oil Creek branch of the Arkansaw and the South Platte r., -in a stricter sense; more exactly still, between West Oil or Ten Mile -cr. and one of several small spring runs that make into the S. Platte. -Pike makes the pass between Ten Mile mt. (right) and Thirty-nine Mile -mt. (left), at an elevation of something over 9,000 feet. The -difference between this Oil Creek way into South Park and the way by -Currant cr. is that, had he come up the latter, he would have made -Currant Creek Pass, 9,550 feet, between Thirty-Nine Mile mt. (right) -and Chalcedony Buttes (left); it is simply a matter of "cotoying" -(flanking) Thirty-nine Mile mt. E. or W. By the way he came, he -strikes the South Platte r., in South Park, Park Co., at the very -nearest approach it makes to the point he left on the Arkansaw--that -is to say, at the elbow it makes where, after flowing S. E. through -South Park, it turns sharp N. E. and enters what is called the Upper -or Eleven Mile canyon. These particulars are assured: for Pike finds -that the river "ran northeast." Camp of Dec. 13th is set in the hills -2 m. south of the river, near the head of the canyon just said. - -Pike's route from Canyon City and back to that place has been a subject -of much doubt and discussion, in which some very wild notions have -been indulged by those who had any opinion whatever as to where he -went on this round trip. It has even been mooted whether he was ever -on the South Platte, or even in South Park at all. A cautious and -tentative statement is ventured in the 1889 Denver reprint of the -London ed. of the Travels, where my friend Mr. Maguire says in his new -Preface: "The exact line of march of the party from the time it -reached the foot of the Grand Canyon ["Royal Gorge"] of the Arkansas is -not easy to trace. It is likely that it reached the Platte in the -South Park, and quite possible that it penetrated to the headwaters of -the Gunnison." I do not profess to be able to trail a mosquito over a -granite bowlder, but I think we shall be able to discover precisely -where Pike went on this trip, where he entered South Park, his course -through it, the place where he left it, and how, after ascending the -Arkansaw for two days, he descended this river to Canyon City. Every -one of Pike's camps can be fixed within 2 or 3 m., and some of them -with absolute precision. He was never on the Gunnison, or any other -Pacific waters. One who wishes to satisfy himself on all these points -needs only to study Pike's text with Sheet vii. of Hayden's Atlas of -Colorado. - -[III-9] At or near the place now called Howbert, on the N. bank of the -S. Platte. This great river has its uttermost source in that section -of the Continental Divide which bounds South Park on the N. W., above -the sources of the Arkansaw, and in the southward continuation of the -same mountains. The latter, bounding South Park on the W., and known -as the Park range, are not the Continental Divide, because the -Arkansaw r. here intervenes, and the Divide separates the Arkansan -water-shed from that of Gunnison r. Having gathered its numerous -tributaries from these mountains, the South Platte sweeps -southeastward across South Park, and then turns abruptly northeastward -to leave the Park by the Eleven Mile Canyon already mentioned, finds -its way through the Front range south of Denver, and runs in the -prairie till it joins the North Platte in Lincoln Co., Nebraska. The -Col. Mid. R. R. now runs from Colorado Springs, past Florissant, -through Eleven Mile canyon, and skirts the South Platte across South -Park, on its way to the already notable mining camp Leadville, which -no doubt has a future as well as a past; the Denv., S. P., and Pac. R. -R. traverses South Park from N. to S.; and each of these roads leaves -the park on the S. through Trout Creek Pass, where Pike did also when -he struck over for the Arkansaw. These points will appear more clearly -as we proceed to trail the Expedition through South Park. - -[III-10] Further up the N. bank of the S. Platte, to vicinity of the -C. M. R. R. station, Sulphur Springs. - -[III-11] Which could never be struck on any such course as this. To go -hence S. W. would take the Expedition over the Park range to the -Arkansaw, thence over the Continental Divide to the headwaters of the -Gunnison, and so on. - -[III-12] Hartsell's or Hartzell's ranch was located in the crotch of -the forks Pike passed, and the town or railroad station by this name -is now 2 m. above, on the N. bank of the S. fork, or Little Platte r. -The two forks are of approximately equal size; but the N. or -right-hand fork is the main one. The other, left-hand one, which Pike -goes up a very short distance, and finds it does not suit him, is -formed by the confluence of various creeks, among which may be named -High, Herring's (Agate cr. of Hayden), Buffalo, and Long Gulch. Camp -is set about 2 m. west of Hartsell's, near where High cr. falls into -this branch of the S. Platte. - -[III-13] Pike has actually got on the old San Juan road, which he -follows more or less nearly out of South Park, as does also a branch -of the Col. Midl. R. R. He enters those outliers of the Park range -called the Trout Creek Pass hills, gets over the range itself by this -pass, supposed to be 9,800 feet high, and goes down Trout cr. Some -named places near or on his route are Salt Works, Mill Top, Higgins', -and McGee's. Camp on Trout cr., in the vicinity of the last named -place. - -[III-14] Merely shifting camp a little distance down Trout cr. from -the gorge to the open country, about the mouth of the creek, through -which the Arkansaw here flows. It is a very well known place. The D. -and R. G., the Col. Midl., and the D., S. P., and P. R. R. come -together here; in the immediate vicinity are places called Charcoal -(about where, I suppose, camp was set), Midway, and Schwanders; a -little below is Nathrop, where the D., S. P. and P. R. R. starts over -the Continental Divide for Gunnison; and a little above is Buena -Vista, seat of Chaffee Co., which Pike entered when he made the Trout -Creek Pass. The Arkansaw is here flowing about S. S. E. The -Continental Divide is directly W., 15 to 20 m.; the mountains that -make it are the Sawatch range, some of whose peaks along here are: Mt. -Princeton, 14,190 feet, nearest Pike's camp; Mt. Antero, 14,245; Mt. -Shavano, 14,230; Mt. Keyes, 13,700. Arnold's cr. falls in a little -below Trout cr., on the same side; while from the Sawatch mts. come -Chalk and Cottonwood creeks, respectively below and above camp. Pike -is going to descend the Arkansaw from this station to Canyon City; but -he first starts his people in that direction, while with two men he -makes a little reconnaissance up river, in the narrow valley between -the Sawatch and Park ranges. - -[III-15] Pike stepped off the ties of the Col. Midl. R. R., if he went -up the N. side of the river, and those of the Denver and Rio Grande, -if he passed on the other side. His camp was between the station -Fisher of the former railroad, and Riverside of the latter, below the -mouth of Pine cr., which comes down from Mt. Harvard. To reach this -point, he passed Buena Vista and the stations Dornick and Americus; -also, the place where one Leonard had his ranch, and there used to be -a toll-gate--for an old mail route passed by here. Two streams he -passed were Cottonwood cr., on the left, coming down from between Mts. -Princeton and Yale, latter 14,187 feet; and next Seven Mile or -Sweetwater cr., on the right, down a branch of which came the old -California road. He is under the shadow of Mt. Harvard, of the Sawatch -range, 14,375 feet high, and Marmot Peak in the Park range. - -[III-16] The highest point on the Arkansaw ever reached by the -Expedition, and that only by three of its members. This is the nearest -Pike ever came to Pacific waters; and it is close enough to have -easily started the erroneous tradition. This has been given currency -in General A. W. Greely's sketch, and very lately also supported by -Governor Alva Adams, in his address, July 12th, 1894, p. 13, where we -read: "He wandered west over routes we cannot identify until he must -have found the Tomichi, a tributary of the Gunnison, and the only time -Pike touched Pacific waters." But let us see about this. Assuming the -substantial accuracy of Pike's mileages for the 21st and 22d, or at -any rate, that they were not _understated_, and taking the Trout Creek -camp to have been 6 m. below Buena Vista, his uttermost point may be -fixed within a mile or two of Twin Lakes station on the D. and R. G. -R. R. This place takes name from the two beautiful lakes which lie -from 2 to 5 m. westward. This determination would be more particularly -acceptable, as the point indicated falls almost exactly on the -boundary between Chaffee and Lake cos. I think, very probably, that -the "large point of the mountain," on turning which Pike viewed the -further course of the Arkansaw, was that sharp spur which projects to -the river on the left, 3 m. above Granite station and Cache cr., and -at the foot of which falls in the discharge stream from the lakes. -Pike could have seen up river a good way from any elevation in this -vicinity, though by no means "at least 35 miles." I doubt that the -course of any river in these parts is continuously visible for this -distance; besides, there is no 35 m. of the Arkansaw above Twin Lakes. -The Arkansaw is composed from three branches which unite west of -Leadville--the middle, Tennessee fork, heading in the Continental -Divide, in and near Tennessee Pass, in relation with heads of Eagle -r., a tributary of the Grand; the east fork, heading about Fremont -Pass with Ten Mile cr., a tributary of Blue r. and so of the Grand; -which two, having joined, are joined by the west or Lake fork. There -is little to choose between the middle and east forks, as to which is -the ultimate "source" of the Arkansaw. Both are now meandered by the -D. and R. G. R. R., the east one also by the Denver, Leadville and -Gunnison division of the U. P.; while the Col. Midl. goes along the -west fork. Below the junction of this fork the Arkansaw receives -various small tributaries, chiefly from the Park range on the east, as -those from the gulches known as Iowa, Thompson, Empire, Union, Weston, -and Granite; the corresponding streams on the other side, from the -Sawatch range, mostly fall into the west fork, as Half Moon cr. and -others; but one which gathers from Mt. Elbert falls into the main -river 2 m. above the discharge of Twin Lakes. The lesser of these two -is fed by Lake and other small streams, and discharges into the -greater one, which in turn discharges into the Arkansaw. The lakes are -about 11/2 and 21/2 m. in their respective diameters. Between the two is a -place called Interlaken, reminding one of the fact that Colorado is -often styled the Switzerland of America. - -[III-17] We must guess as well as we can where this was. Pike, Miller, -and Mountjoy started early from their camp below Pine cr., about -Riverside station, and made a forced march well into the night. We may -credit them with 25 m., and suppose them to be below Nathrop (which is -on Chalk cr.), and somewhere in the vicinity of Brown's cr., which -falls in from the left. - -[III-18] It is specially desirable to fix this Christmas camp, if not -for the sentiment of the thing, then because it is our initial point -for the whole journey hence down the Arkansaw to Canyon City. From -anything that has preceded we do not know where it was, within 10 m. -But on the 26th Pike notes a "large stream" from the south, at 71/2 m. -This is the South Arkansaw, which falls in very near the well-known -town of Salida. Salida is 7 m. by rail below a station called Brown -Canyon, which latter is a little above Squaw cr. Between Salida and -Brown Canyon the country is open and park-like among the -mountains--just the sort of a place where buffalo would herd in the -winter. The seasonable supply of eight beeves was got in consequence, -and I have no doubt that Christmas was spent in the immediate vicinity -of Brown Canyon. The mountain fastnesses about the headwaters of the -Arkansaw long continued to be wintering-grounds for the buffalo. Thus -we find one of the most experienced officers of our army making the -following remark: "Although generally regarded as migratory in their -habits, yet the buffalo often winter in the snows of a high northern -latitude. Early in the spring of 1858 I found them in the Rocky -mountains, _at the head of the Arkansas and South Platte rivers_, and -there was every indication that this was a permanent abiding place for -them," says Marcy, Pra. Trav. 1859, p. 234, half a century after -Pike's fortunate find. The herd now preserved in Yellowstone Park has -no trouble with the deepest snows and coldest weather of that region. - -[III-19] Down the Arkansaw, past Squaw cr., right, and some runs in -the park he traversed, also past the stations Bellevue and Salida, to -the mouth of the South Arkansaw r., where the so-called Arkansaw hills -on the north close in against the Sangre de Cristo range on the south, -thus straitening the valley. The S. Arkansaw heads about Mts. Shavano -and Keyes; its principal branch is Poncho or Puncho cr. There was a -good road up both these streams, which are now meandered by railroads. -Had Pike known it, he could have struck up the S. Arkansaw to Poncho -cr., and up this by Poncho Pass into Homan's Park. This is _west_ of -the great Sangre de Cristo range, and is in fact the upper part of the -San Luis valley or basin of the Upper Rio Grande, which Pike only -reaches by a roundabout way, after subjecting himself and his men to -almost incredible sufferings. But it is easy to be wise after the -event. - -[III-20] To a point on the Arkansaw about the mouth of Badger cr., -from the N.; vicinity of station Wellsville or Badger. - -[III-21] Camp in vicinity of that elbow which the river makes, nearly -from S. E. to E. N. E., and near where there is a way up a creek from -the S. over the S. de C. range by Hayden's Pass. The position is short -of Bernard and even of Oak Grove cr. - -[III-22] Only to the vicinity of Bernard cr. (past Cotopaxi). Pike's -mileages appear excessive for the actual advance made, in comparison -with modern schedules; but he has to step over much ground for -comparatively little progress. All his distances to Jan. 5th require -adjustment, or we should fetch him out a long way below Canyon City. - -[III-23] Camp about the mouth of Texas cr., a considerable stream from -the S., which falls in three or four miles below the mouth of Corral -or Carroll cr., another large one from the N.; Texas Creek station and -a place called Ford in the vicinity. - -[III-24] Camp in the vicinity of the station Spikebuck. The river here -bears noticeably to the N. E. A little further along there is a sharp -turn to the S. E., at Parkdale. This place is at the head of the Grand -Canyon proper, or Royal Gorge, by rail 10 m. above Canyon City, 22 below -Cotopaxi, and 46 below Salida; total, 56 m. from what is practically -the same as Pike's camp of Dec. 26th to that of Jan. 5th, when he -reaches Canyon City. These figures may be here compared with his -mileages, which are: 121/2 + 16 + 5 + 8 + 103/4 + 1 + 6 + 8 + 7 = 741/4. -Details aside, the routes are identical; and a discrepancy of 17 or 18 -m. is not more than would be expected under the circumstances. - -[III-25] For the past three days the party has been struggling with -cumulative difficulties that threaten to become insurmountable, and -are already strung along miles apart in the mountains. Yet Pike is -only at the head of the Royal Gorge--that Grand Canyon of the Arkansaw -which he had before noted from its lower end and regarded as -impassable for horses. Parkdale is the place where Currant cr. falls -in on the N. or left. This is the large creek which heads in the -mountains about South Park, and which we have heard of before, when -the Oil Creek route to that park was in question: see back, note 6, p. -464. Now we see more clearly than before that Pike never went up -Currant cr. This has two principal branches, both from the W., one -called Cottonwood and the other Tallahassee (Hayden), Tallahassa -(Wheeler), or Talahsee (G. L. O., 1892, brought into the Arkansaw as a -separate tributary). - -[III-26] It should be noted here that not one of the eight straggling -parties managed to get through the canyon itself. Some came over the -mountains on the N., and the rest over those on the S. Pike alone -essayed the gorge, but only got halfway through. Next morning he -escaped by scrambling up a small side canyon which occurs on the N. -side, and came down on the N. of Noonan's Peak. This is the mountain -that overhangs Canyon City, standing guard at the throat of the gorge. -Dr. Robinson and his man came that way too. Vasquez and his men -brought the horses the other way, across Webster Park, and had an -easier time of it. It was three days before all the party got in. - -[III-27] Pike's map shows "Yellow Stone River Branch of the Missouri," -with his trail looped up to it. This of course is an egregious error, -as the Yellowstone is much further off, beyond anything that Pike -sighted when he was highest on the Arkansaw, Dec. 22d. Next N. of him -there, and on the W. of the Continental Divide, was Grand r., which -unites with the Green to form the Colorado of the West. This arises in -Middle Park. North of this again, in North Park, are the headwaters of -the North Platte; and the southernmost heads of the Yellowstone are -still beyond these. The mountains which Pike legends "White Snow" are -the Sawatch range, continued southward by the Sangre de Cristo range. -All this part of Pike's map is too defective to be of any use in -tracing the trip just ended, and I have not had occasion to adduce it -in support of the text since we started up Oil cr. The dotted trail -loops up the Arkansaw far beyond the point Pike reached, and a number -of the camps he made are omitted. The best delineation of Pike's route -in South Park and about the headwaters of the Arkansaw is that traced -on Josiah Gregg's map of the Indian Territory, etc., in his Commerce -of the Prairie, 1844. This loops Pike around the Park, thence almost -to the source of the Arkansaw, and back down this river--which is -quite right. This case must be more accentuated, because tradition -_will_ have it that Pike got over on Pacific waters--not a drop of -which he ever saw. - -[III-28] Marked "[Symbol: Square] Block house" on Pike's map. Lewis -and Clark's map of 1814 letters "[Symbol: Square] Block House U. S. -Factory in 1806" on the same spot on the "Rio de Nanesi," _i. e._, the -Arkansaw. The building stood on the N. bank of the Arkansaw, doubtless -within present limits of Canyon City. All trace of the structure seems -to be gone, and I doubt that the precise spot will ever be recovered. -My correspondence with several persons in Canyon City and vicinity has -availed nothing. But the location at Canyon City is unquestionable. - -The terrible trip Pike now ventures to make should not have been -attempted in the dead of winter, with his miserable outfit. Pike was -brave to excess, as we know; that and the mysterious _crux_ of the -orders he had from Wilkinson about the Spanish business must excuse -this particular piece of foolhardihood. A more experienced -mountaineer, with any concern for his own life, to say nothing of the -lives of his men, would not have bucked up against those mountains -under such circumstances. If he had had to hunt for the unknown -sources of a river which came eastward from there, he would have -backed out of the mountains, gone down the Arkansaw a piece, struck -south at his convenience till he found his river, and then considered -the chances of being able to follow it up to its source. That Red r. -of which Pike is supposed to have gone in search was never found, for -the simple reason that there is no such river in that part of the -world--as probably Pike himself knew. He had a chip on each shoulder -for some Spaniard to please knock off; his coat-tails were dragging -all over the R. mts. for some Spaniard to please step on; and he would -rather have broken some Spanish heads than have discovered the head of -any river. - -[III-29] This "18" is a misprint for 12. There were but 16 persons all -told, of whom 2 are left when Pike, Robinson, and 12 soldiers proceed -to tempt fate. The 12 were: Sergeant Meek, Corporal Jackson, Privates -Brown, Carter, Dougherty, Gorden, Menaugh, Miller, Mountjoy, Roy, -Sparks, Stoute. - -[III-30] The "South fork" of the Arkansaw, afterward sometimes called -Pike's fork, as for example on Gregg's map, 1844, and which he now -proceeds to ascend, is Grape cr. This considerable stream arises on -the eastern slopes of the Sangre de Cristo range, waters the Wet -Mountain valley, receives various tributaries from the western slope -of the Wet mts., and traverses a gorge in the latter to fall into the -Arkansaw from the S. W., about a mile above Canyon City. The general -course is about N. from its uttermost head in the S. de C. range, in -the vicinity of Music Pass. Here its watershed is separated, on the E. -side of the range, by a divide, on the other side of which are certain -sources of the Huerfano r.; while on the west of the S. de C. range -the connection is with "Meadow" (qu. Medano?) cr., a tributary of San -Luis cr., in the valley of the latter name, and consequently in the -basin of the Rio Grande--that "Red river" which Pike seeks in vain. -To-day he strikes Grape cr. at or near present site of Williamsburg, a -station on the railroad which once meandered Grape cr. to Silver -Cliff, but was washed out and abandoned. This is a good way below the -entrance of Pine cr., a branch which falls into Grape cr. from the W. -This may seem short for the "13" m. of the text; but if anyone should -think so, he has only to start from Canyon City to change his mind by -the time he finds himself on Grape cr. by the present best trail. -Besides, we shall soon see that we have to shorten up all of Pike's -mileages in this rough country. - -[III-31] Past Pine cr., to some point on Grape cr. short of the -boundary between Fremont and Custer cos., probably in the vicinity of -Soda Springs or the station Grape. Pike is flanking a mountain as well -as meandering a crooked creek; and, aside from any question of -typographical error, we have to adjust his whole set of ostensible -mileages by the topography of the country. If we should apply the -figures he gives to the flat face of the map, we should run him clear -over into New Mexico before he reaches his camp on the Conejos in -Colorado. - -[III-32] Over the line from Fremont into Custer Co., past Grape and -Blackburn, to camp about the mouth of Silver cr. This heads about Mt. -Tyndall and Mt. Herring, and by another branch N. of these; it runs N. -W. and then N. to fall into Grape cr., between Blackburn and Gove. -Camp is 6 or 8 m. (air-line) due N. of Round mt. and town of Silver -Cliff; but much further by the meanders of the creek or either of the -roads through the mountains. - -[III-33] "White" and "Snow" are Pike's names for what he regarded as a -continuous chain from as far N. as he knew anything about it, to the -Sierra Blanca of New Mexico. That is to say, the names cover the whole -Sawatch range, along the Continental Divide, and the Sangre de Cristo -range; which latter separates the Arkansaw from the Rio Grande basin, -and ends on the S. with the bold elevations of the Sierra Blanca, or -White mts. of modern geography. In saying that the "great White -mountain presented itself," Pike means that he has reached a point in -the Wet Mountain valley where he has the Sangre de Cristo range -immediately before him, on the W. In this direction are the heads of -the Texas cr., already mentioned (p. 475), and of Swift or Dutch cr., -draining eastern slopes of the mountains, two of the nearest points of -which are Electric Peak and Monte Rito Alto, the latter 12,863 or -12,989 feet high, according to whether Lieut. Wheeler or Dr. Hayden -made the most accurate determination. - -[III-34] This is the most difficult itinerary of the whole trip, and -much depends upon its correct recovery. It is out of the question to -take "28 miles" at its face value; the difficulty must be adjusted. -Pike's trail shows with substantial accuracy his three camps of the -14th, 15th, and 16th, along Grape cr.; then a long loop S. E. and back -S. W. to a point on Grape cr. again, above two creeks coming down from -the Sangre range. I think these creeks can be identified; this would -fix to-day's camp with sufficient precision. I base my conclusions on -Pike's whole set of mileages for this trip, as applied to the -topography of the route. Thus we have, going up Grape cr., 13 + 19 + -18 = 50 m.; with 4 more miles on the 17th, making 54 to the point -where this creek is left. Further on come (28 - 4 =) 24 + 0 + 0 + 0 + -0 + 8 + 8 + 9 + 0 + 0 + 14 = 63 m., which puts Pike over the Sand Hill -Pass on the 27th. Finally, we have 15 + 17 + 24 + 18 = 74 m., in the -San Luis valley to the stockade on the Rio Conejos; total, 191 m. The -three sections of this route--the Grape Creek course, the Wet Mountain -Valley course, the San Luis Valley course--are practically, therefore, -in the ratio of 5 : 6 : 7; and such figures must be made to fit the -known geography of the route. I make the journey of the 17th as -follows: Pike proceeds up Grape cr. a short distance, leaves it, -flanks Round mt., and passes by or near the present site of Silver -Cliff, seat of Custer Co.; continues S. E. across the valley or -prairie to the base of the Wet mts., in the vicinity, not immediate, -of Mt. Robinson, Mt. Brinley, and Rosita, where the mines of the -latter name were or are; where, not liking the place, as there was no -fuel, he turns about S. W. and repasses the valley at a right angle to -his other course through it, recrosses Grape cr. a little below the -confluence of Rosita cr., and camps under the Sangre de Cristo range, -somewhere about Spring cr. or Horse cr. This day was disastrous, as a -culmination of misery already endured by the handful of half-naked and -more than half-starved adventurers, for whom still more acute -suffering was in store. The wonder is not at any error in distances, -but that any intelligible itinerary of such a journey has reached us -from the splendidly brave young fellow, who so rashly led his -companions into a death-trap. But for the buffalo which were wintering -in the Wet Mountain valley, not a man would have escaped with his -life. Whatever the exact spot, this is the place where poor Sparks and -Dougherty were abandoned with frozen feet. What they endured may be -imagined from the mute messages Pike afterward received from them--a -present of some of the bones which came away from their gangrenous -feet after sphacelus had set in. - -[III-35] By Pike's map, this should be the next to the last creek -before Grape cr. is headed--the first one above Horse cr. If so, the -party are in the vicinity of the place now called Blumenau. - -[III-36] About to the ultimate forks of Grape cr. The S. end of the -Wet Mountain valley is a sort of pocket where the Wet mts. connect -with the Sangre range by intermediate elevations (as Promontory -Bluffs, etc.). Creeks come into the valley from the E., S., and W., -converging to compose Grape cr., the ultimate tributary of which is -now known as Cottonwood cr. The border of this pocket, on the S., is -the boundary between Custer and Huerfano cos.--an irregular line -continuing on the W. along the main ridge of the Sangre range, and on -the E. along that ridge of the Wet mts. which divides sources of -Hardscrabble cr. and St. Charles and Greenhorn rivers from those of -the Huerfano. - -[III-37] Taking the party over the low divide mentioned in the last -note, from Custer into Huerfano Co., and from the Grape Creek -watershed to that of the Huerfano. The exact spot is perhaps not -determinable, but it was not far from Bradford, a place on Muddy cr., -one of the first two forks of the Huerfano. The map shows that Pike -has headed Grape cr. and got into another basin, from which he starts -a river running out on the prairie to the Arkansaw. This is by mistake -made out to be his "3d Fork," _i. e._, the St. Charles and Greenhorn; -it is really his "2d Fork," _i. e._, the Huerfano. - -[III-38] If we call the roll to-day we find: Vasquez and Smith left at -Canyon City on the 14th; Sparks and Dougherty left at camp of the 22d; -Menaugh left at camp of the 26th; present on the 27th, Pike, Robinson, -Meek, Jackson, Brown, Carter, Gorden, Miller, Mountjoy, Roy, Stoute = -11. - -[III-39] The Expedition crosses the Sangre de Cristo range to the -basin of the Rio Grande, and is about to enter the San Luis valley. -The matter of the pass by which they came has been much mooted and -left in doubt. Thus we find Maguire saying in the preface to the -Denver ed. of Pike, p. xi: "Whether this pass was the Mosca or the -Medano (known also as 'Sandhill') or whether it was one still farther -to the north as thought by some, cannot be definitely established." -Governor Adams in his Address, p. 17, says "Medano or Music Pass." I -think it is certain that the Expedition made the Sand Hill Pass, and I -hope to be able to settle the question. The three passes to which -Maguire refers, and the only ones to be considered for a moment, are -the following, in order from N. to S. - -1. A pass from Antelope cr., one of the heads of Grape cr., in Custer -Co., over to a tributary of San Luis r. in Saguache Co., not -traversing any portion of Huerfano Co., or barely touching the extreme -N. W. corner of this county--in fact, Custer, Huerfano, and Saguache -cos. meet in this pass, and Muddy as well as Antelope cr. heads there. -This is the "one still farther to the north" to which Maguire alludes. -It is the one marked "Music Pass" on the G. L. O. and U. S. G. S. maps -of 1892 (but not the Music Pass of Hayden's map). This seems to me so -far N. as to be out of the question, if any reliance is to be placed -on either Pike's mileages or his map. Even after the utmost reduction -of his distances that can be made with any regard to the topography of -the region, we fetch him out of the Grape Creek basin, into that of -the Huerfano, and thus well along in Huerfano Co. His map bears this -out completely. Observe that on the 24th he has _crossed_ the head of -Grape cr., left it a good way behind him, and marked his camp near the -head of the other stream--the Huerfano. Notice also that from this -camp of the 24th-26th the trail makes a sharp elbow _west_, and goes -through the Sangre range in a gap next _below_ that one in which he -makes Grape cr. head. Again, if he had made this northernmost pass he -would have come out N. of the Sand Dunes, and had these on his left as -he went S. in the San Luis valley; whereas, we find them on his right -as he comes down from the mountains to the S. of them. Finally, the -mileages of the San Luis Valley route do not fit so well from this -pass as from the next one. These facts seem to me to prove that Pike -made no pass N. of the sand-hills. - -2. The Sand Hill Pass, also rightly Medano and wrongly Modenos Pass, -called Music Pass by Hayden, and Williams' Pass by Gunnison and -Beckwith, is that which connects Navajo or Greaser cr. (br. of Muddy -cr.) with a certain tributary (Medano or Sand cr.) of the San Luis r. -This is on the boundary between Huerfano and Saguache cos., about 5 m. -(air-line) S. of Music Pass. The Huerfano gathers its waters in the -valley called Huerfano Park. The three principal tributaries, from the -N. to N. W., are Turkey, Wilson's, and Muddy creeks. The place -Bradford, already named as that to the vicinity of which we traced the -Expedition, without reference to any question of a pass, is on Muddy -cr., and a road goes direct from this place through this pass. That -branch of Muddy cr. by some called Navajo cr. drains from this pass, -and Greaser cr. also heads in its immediate vicinity. Across the -divide, which sinks to an altitude of about 9,800 feet at the pass, -Medano or Sand cr. drains S. W. and then S. between the Sand Dunes and -the mountains, in the San Luis basin (Saguache Co.). That Pike took -this route I have no question. There seems also to have been no doubt -in the minds of Captain Gunnison and Lieutenant Beckwith, who quote -Pike on their approach to this pass, Aug. 25th, 1853, and add: "The -course of Williams' Pass as we entered it [from the sand-hills] is N. -58 deg. E., but it soon bends to the left to N. 27 deg. E. We passed up it -only about three-fourths of a mile. Its width is about 250 yards, -rising gradually as far as we could see. Its walls of rock rise on -either side to a height of some hundreds of feet, and are nearly -vertical. Our guides represent it as continuing for 14 miles, both in -character and direction as here described; beyond that it is more -abrupt, terminating at its summit less favorably for a road than -Roubideau's Pass. It is followed by a large Indian trail." (P. R. R. -Rep. II., 1855, p. 43.) - -3. Mosca or Musca Pass, also called Fly Pass by some, translating the -Spanish, and by others Robideau's Pass, 6 or 8 m. in an air-line S. of -the Sand Hill Pass, is a lower and better one. It connects the Bear -Creek branch of May cr. (the latter a tributary to the Huerfano) with -the branch of Mosca cr. on the other side of the divide. There is a -place called Sharpsdale on Bear or May cr., whence a road goes W. up -to the pass, and others N. to Bradford, E. through Poison canyon to -Gardner on the Huerfano at the mouth of Muddy cr., and also E. down -May cr. and along the Huerfano to Point of Rocks and Malachite, and so -on to Gardner. On the subject of Mosca Pass Maguire's remarks seem to -me judicious, and I transcribe them to express my concurrence in his -decision: "In the early days of the settlement of the country the -Mosca was well travelled by the Southern Utes on their journeys to the -Plains, and their 'hieroglyphics,' of which Pike speaks, were to be -seen cut in the bark of the aspen trees; but from the fact that on -reaching San Luis valley on January 28th, 1807, the party marched some -considerable distance on a course lying between the sand dunes and the -mountains, the evidence would seem to warrant the belief that the pass -used was north of the Mosca." - -There are other passes of this range, as the one called Sangre de -Cristo, and the Veta Pass (which latter is now utilized by the D. and -R. G. R. R.). But these are altogether too far S., and have never been -brought in question. There seems to be no named or used pass from the -head of the Huerfano itself. The ultimate heads of this river drain N. -from Cerro Blanco and Baldy Peak, with collateral sources thence along -the line between Huerfano and Costello cos. to Grayback and Iron mts., -etc., besides those from the W. on the line between Huerfano and -Saguache cos. in the direction of Mosca Pass. - -In view of the above considerations, we will proceed with Pike through -Medano or Sand Hill Pass into San Luis valley (or Park). This is a -plain between the Sangre de Cristo range on the E. and N. E., and on -the W. and N. W. the San Juan and Sawatch ranges. It has a total -length of about 110 m. from Poncho Pass on the N. to Taos valley on -the S., with a maximum breadth of about 45 m., and an area of upward -of 3,000 square miles. The general elevation is between 7,500 and -8,000 feet. The Rio Grande enters this valley at about the middle of -its W. side, running E. and then sweeping in a long curve S. - -[III-40] The billows of sand which Pike has on his right as he comes -down Sand cr. from Sand Hill (Music, Medano) Pass are very remarkable -formations, which alone would fix his position in the lack of any -other data. West of these Dunes are several streams of the San Luis -system, flowing southward to form sinks called the San Luis lakes, -though Pike's map runs them into the Rio Grande. His camp is on or -near Sand cr., at about the point where this and Mosca cr. join, or -perhaps a little further along. Mosca cr. is the one that comes down -from Mosca Pass, and if Pike had made this pass he would have fetched -out in the valley at about the same spot--at or near Montville. - -[III-41] About S., along the W. base of the Sierra Blanca, which is -simply the continuation of the Sangre de Cristo range. Some of the -summits Pike has on his left are: Grayback Peak, 12,387 feet; Bald, -Baldy, or Old Baldy mt., 14,125 feet; and Cerro Blanco itself, 14,431 -feet, giving name to the group. Pike goes from the vicinity of -Montville past Zapato cr., probably on the present road through the -town of the latter name on the creek, and camps in the valley at the -place where timber reaches furthest from the mountains. A present road -curves S. E. from this point, around to the S. of the range, where was -built Fort Garland, probably 12 or 15 m. S. E. of to-night's camp. -This was a sort of focal point to which roads converged from various -points, and especially was it on the most direct route from any place -in the lower part of the San Luis valley through Sangre de Cristo Pass -to the Huerfano, and so on. Garland was on Ute cr., a branch of -Trinchera cr., which latter falls into the Rio Grande about 3 m. above -the Rio Conejos. - -[III-42] Pike reaches the Rio Grande on a S. W. course, about the -present position of the town of Alamosa, whence railroads now radiate -in or converge from four directions. These branches of the Denver and -Rio Grande system come from the E. through the Veta Pass, from the N. -directly down the San Luis valley, from the N. W. down the Rio Grande, -and from the S. up the same river. A few miles S. of Alamosa, Alamosa -and La Jara creeks fall in close together, from the W. These are both -indicated by a single unlettered trace on Pike's map. Next below -Trinchera cr. falls in on the E. This is the one called Rio de la -Culebra on Pike's map, which correctly brings it in above the one from -the W. (Rio Conejos) on which he established himself. The Rio Culebra -is the next one, from the E., below Trinchera and Conejos, and above -Rio Costilla. Pike lays down the Costilla by its proper name, omits -the Culebra, and calls the Trinchera by the name of the latter. In -English, Rio Conejos would be Rabbit r.; Culebra, Snake r.; Costilla, -Rib r.; and Trinchera, Cut-bank r. Alamosa should imply that the river -so called were shaded with elms, though cottonwood (_Populus -angustifolia_) is the actual growth. La Jara is properly the rock-rose -(_Cistus creticus_), but as a name of this creek it refers to -willow-brush. - -[III-43] Of which about 13 (misprinted "18") was down the Rio Grande, -the rest up the Rio Conejos; Trinchera cr. (the one from the E., which -Pike's map letters "Rio de la Culebra") was passed a short distance -above the Conejos. The latter is a large stream from the W. which -arises in the San Juan range, in the vicinity of Conejos Peak (13,183 -feet), leaves the mountains by the foot of Prospect Peak (6,837 feet), -is joined in the San Luis hills by San Antonio cr. (its principal -branch), and then seeks the Rio Grande by winding about the northern -ends of the hills just named. The data already given, with those -details which the text presently offers, serve to fix the present -station with precision--about 5 m. up the Conejos, on its N. bank, at -a point where it was not fordable, and directly S. of which was a high -hill. A sufficiently large map, such as Sheet X of the Hayden survey, -shows exactly these topographical details, and also marks two ranches -in the immediate vicinity: see also Pike's own map. Under these -circumstances it seems to me wasted ingenuity to find Pike's -blockhouse in some other place; yet its locality has been disputed. -Maguire puts the case well: "The exact locality of the site (a notable -spot in Western history) is in dispute, owing to the discovery many -years ago of the remains of an ancient log structure further W. on the -Conejos, which some suppose to have been Pike's fortress; but -everything in the narrative, as well as in the Spanish records, -indicates the prairie opposite the mineral springs and high hill on -the S. bank of the Conejos as the spot where the flag of the United -States is first recorded as floating above the soil of Colorado." -Gregg's map locates the place approximately, with the legend "[Symbol: -Square] Pike's Stockade Whence taken to Santa Fe. Feb. 1807". - -Concerning the exact location of Pike's post on the Conejos, I am -favored with the following letter (cited in substance) from Mr. -Maguire, an old resident of the San Luis valley: - - "DENVER, COLO., _April 18th, 1894_. - - "MY DEAR SIR: - - "... As to the disputed stockade on the Conejos: I am - entirely familiar with that country, and had fixed it as - having been situated in the prairie on the N. bank of the - stream due across from what is known as the Ojo Caliente. - Before writing the preface to the Denver reprint of Pike, I - had made up my mind to that, although it was contended in - the neighborhood that the stockade had been situated some - 14 or 15 m. from the mouth of the stream. This supposition - was due to the fact that Lafayette Head, the oldest - American settler on the Conejos, who came there early in - the fifties, was lieutenant-governor of this state, and a - man of high standing and much authority, had asserted that - the fort had been built much further up the stream than the - site I had accepted. In 1890 I saw Mr. Head upon the - subject, and he told me that when he first came to the - country there still existed on the Conejos the remains of a - structure of cottonwood logs laid horizontally, which he - had seen, and which was so old that the logs would scarcely - bear the weight of one's foot. Upon this evidence, with or - without suggestion from some source, he concluded it was - Pike's fort, and so gave out; whence the prevalent - impression. That Mr. Head saw this structure there is no - question. I have no idea what it was, or when or by whom - built; but it would be useless to pursue this matter, - because Mr. Head is positive that the location was on the - _south_ side, and therefore the structure cannot have been - Pike's. The Ojo Caliente above mentioned is on the property - of Mr. A. W. McIntire, as is also the prairie opposite, on - the north bank of the river. Mr. McIntire is a Pike - enthusiast, very much interested in the case. When in - Denver recently he startled me by stating that we had been - in error as to the exact location, as he had become - convinced it was about half a mile below the Ojo Caliente. - This half-mile bears a remarkable relation to the statement - in your letter to me: 'I have it probably within half a - mile.' Mr. McIntire says that the depression caused by - digging the moat is still visible. The place is on the - north bank of the Conejos, opposite some warm or mineral - springs flowing out of the hill on the south side; and Mr. - McIntire informs me that the spot is a little north of the - center of Sect. 7, T. 35, R. 11. - - "Very truly yours, - "W. M. MAGUIRE." - -Later correspondence on this subject with Mr. Maguire includes a -letter and sketches from Gov. McIntire, who is satisfied that he has -the exact site. He marks it on a township map which he transmits, as -on the middle of the W. line of the N. W. 1/4 of the N. E. 1/4 of Sect. 7, -T. 35, R. 11, just across the Conejos, under a hill from out of which -flows a mineral or thermal spring which never freezes, at a point so -chosen that the current in the river would not cut the ditch around -the work. Gov. McIntire's sketch represents the ditch as 21/2--3 feet -deep, 68 steps long (including an unbroken place of 13 steps), and of -semi-circular figure; the two ends of this figure against the river, -in a small deep bend, so that the river and the ditch inclose an oval -space 37 steps in the longest diameter. This seems large for such a -temporary work as Pike started, but he tells us that it was never -finished, and Gov. McIntire is persuaded that the ditch is not a -natural formation. I am therefore led to believe that he has found the -right spot. - -[III-44] That our friend Robinson was, in plain English, a spy, is -incontestible. If he had any other object in joining the Expedition, -it is certain that he had no other in leaving it than to find out what -he could about New Spain for the benefit of his own country. Had it -been in actual war times he could have been hanged or shot by the -Spaniards without violation of the customs of nations. As it was, Pike -felt so apprehensive for Robinson's personal safety that when the two -met in New Mexico Pike at first affected not to know Robinson, for -fear of putting him in jeopardy, and he denied point-blank to the -Spanish authorities that Robinson was one of the party. They had -parted on the Conejos with a perfect understanding on such points; -indeed, General Whiting calls it "in pursuance of a previous scheme" -that Robinson set out alone for Santa Fe; meanwhile, Pike sat down on -the Conejos to wait for the Spaniards to come and catch him. The -ostensible object of Robinson's visit to Mexico was fictitious; Pike -says himself that the commercial claim Robinson pretended to have was -worthless "in his hands." Whiting observes that "it was transferred to -Dr. Robinson, who was to make it a pretext for a visit to the place, -and a cover for observing its trade and resources, for the benefit of -his countrymen. He regarded the excursion as a romantic adventure, and -in that mood detached himself from the protection of his friend and -commanding officer." (Life of Pike, p. 272.) - -The _ultima ratio_ of Pike's presence on the Rio Grande in Spanish -territory will probably always remain in question, unless some -documentary evidence, not yet forthcoming, should turn up to show -whether he came there by accident or design. Perhaps the safest ground -to take would be to suppose it the particular accident of a general -design. His open and official instructions required him to -"approximate" to the Spanish possessions; he was to spy out all the -land and see how it lay, politically as well as geographically; hunt -up the Comanches; and make a counter-demonstration to Malgares' -spirited raid, involving a reconnoissance in force as a military -operation. This may all be true of the general design of his -expedition, but it may as easily be true that he lost his way in -searching for the Red river, and only found his way to the Rio Grande -by accident. This seems to be the view of his biographer, General -Whiting, who was a very competent critic of Pike's military career, -and who wrote in comparatively short historical perspective, though he -does not seem to have possessed, or at any rate to have utilized, any -private sources of information. Whiting fully acquits Pike of -intentional errancy, and gives no hint that he is keeping anything -back that would support any other view of the case than that which he -presents, without apparent reserve or arriere-pensee. Some of his -expressions may be here cited. Speaking of Pike's seeing a Mexican -newspaper with an account of Burr's conspiracy, he remarks, p. 277: -"This afforded a clew to the suspicions with which his movements on -the Mexican frontier had most naturally been regarded. It was not -surprising that he should have been looked upon as forming one of the -ramifications of the revolutionary scheme which that distinguished -individual had projected.... It was true, that he had been found, with -a belligerent aspect, in the Mexican country; but his apology was -ready, and, no doubt, acceptable; while he knew that the Mexican -authorities had lately violated, in a similar way, the soil of the -United States, for which no apology could be rendered.... His -misapprehensions of the geography of the country, which led him to -establish himself in such a suspicious manner, on a foreign river, -were excusable, bewildered as he was among mountains and streams that -were likely to confuse all calculations. Still, it was natural for the -Mexican authorities to regard his conduct, at first, as the result of -a design, rather than a mistake, particularly when taken in connection -with Colonel Burr's contemporaneous movements; and their treatment of -him must be considered under the circumstances, as having been marked -by much consideration." General Wilkinson also alludes to the -assertion that had been made, that the expedition which resulted in -the orders he had given Pike "was a premeditated cooperation with -Burr." The Mexicans, it seems, were not alone in their suspicions and -expressions to that effect. - -However the bottom facts of Pike's coming on the Rio Grande may turn -out to be, it is certain that after he had been captured and taken to -Mexico under the diplomatic disguise of a polite invitation to visit -the governor, who had heard of his having lost his way, hastened to -send to his rescue, etc., Pike turned spy and informer with great -agility and signal success. He kept his temper well in hand, except on -one or two occasions; and in several instances showed that art which -diplomacy has been defined to be. He bore himself with courage, -dignity, and much fertility of resources; while that duplicity and -prevarication which he confesses his conscience condoned, if it did -not justify, were never indulged from personal considerations, but -from his intense patriotism. His love of his country was the crucible -in which he assayed his own motives; that was fervid enough to relax -the rigidity of morals he professed and practiced on all ordinary -occasions, and induce a certain ethical elasticity, so to speak, if -not actually to melt all scruples. Patriotism must sometimes shake -hands with Jesuitism in this wicked world; and the majesty of the -flag, like the glory of God, must be maintained by human means. -Abstract questions of the adaptation of means to ends are best left -with casuistry. Pike's methods, while he was the distinguished guest -of a half-hostile foreign power, may be questioned by some, but his -motives by none; and as for his ends, we know that nothing succeeds -like success. The results are well summed by his biographer, p. 282, -in words which I will cite: - -"At the time Captain Pike explored those regions of our wide-spread -interior, almost nothing authentic was known of them. More -satisfactory information of the headwaters of the Mississippi than was -in the possession of the public was highly desirable, and his -narratives relating to them were read with interest. But his accounts -of the Mexican territories were looked for with much more interest, -and when they came out were received with avidity. The jealous policy -of Spain had surrounded her provinces with guards and restraints, that -rendered them almost inaccessible. Their condition and prospects were -veiled from all foreign observation; and at the time Captain Pike -obtained, through an unintentional aberration from his prescribed -route, access to them, unusual attention was turned upon the Mexican -country by the events of Burr's conspiracy. This extraordinary -transaction had awakened an intense curiosity respecting a region -which was known to abound with gold, and which precious metal was -supposed to have been its ultimate object. The trial of Colonel Burr -was beginning, or in progress, when Captain Pike returned, and was -known to have visited the El Dorado, on which this individual was said -to have fixed an eye of cupidity and ambition. Scarcely anything had -been heard of Mexico since the conquest of Cortes, excepting vague -reports of the unbounded wealth that flowed from its mines into the -public and private coffers of Spain. It is not strange, then, that -Captain Pike's tour through some of its provinces should have been -regarded as a rare and most opportune work. His statements were of -course founded on hasty and imperfect observations, it being obvious -from his journal, that, from the time he left Santa Fe, until he -reached the United States, he was under a surveillance, and could only -take notes by stealth. He could neither survey attentively what passed -beneath his eye, nor inquire about that which he did not see, without -exciting suspicion and provoking a rebuke. Still, with an acute eye, -and a retentive memory, he appears to have gathered up many new and -interesting facts, that were well received at the time." - -[III-45] It is uncertain to what work we are here referred. There may -be some old military treatise, well known in Pike's time, to which he -thus alludes; but I think it most likely that he means his own -Observations on New Spain, which formed a part of the App. to Pt. 3 of -the orig. ed. of this work, and which included a considerable account -of the military establishment of that country. If so, the "Essai -Militaire" in question will be found beyond. - -[III-46] My editorial function becomes extremely distasteful, with -Pike's reiterated insistence upon affecting to believe himself upon -the Red r., and expecting us to believe him. See note 44, and imagine -Dr. Robinson starting off alone to walk from the Red r. into Santa Fe! -I have blinked the business thus far, but I cannot keep my eyes shut -to the end of this chapter, as there is worse to come in the miserable -straits to which Captain Pike reduces himself through his awkwardness -and inexperience in telling lies. He bluffs the thing through, to be -sure; but at the present juncture he catches himself in the meshes of -his own falsification. For, supposing he had really been on the Red -r., as he declared he believed; he had _crossed that river_, and gone -5 m. up a stream on the other side of it; so he was absolutely in -Spanish territory, and this he must have known perfectly well. On the -22d he says, p. 507, that he "began to think it was time we received a -visit from the Spaniards or their emissaries," which shows that he was -expecting to be caught. When they come, he makes a show of resistance -by blustering a little, then hauls down his flag and goes with them -peaceably enough--probably not only a willing captive, but one who had -all along intended and desired to be taken into the enemy's country -for purposes of his own. And back of this sorry scene there looms the -sinister shadow of General James Wilkinson, the traitor and -conspirator with Aaron Burr--let the curtain fall. - -[III-47] Doubtless the more eligible Mosca Pass instead of the Sand -Hill Pass: see note 39, p. 492. A clause in Pike's next sentence is so -singularly constructed as to leave the sense obscure; he simply means -to call attention to the fact that Meek and Miller had asked him to -order them on that trip. - -[III-48] Rio Culebra of present maps--next below Trinchera cr. - -[III-49] Escopets or escopettes: the carbine or short rifle used by -Spanish-Americans. - -[III-50] The roll-call now is: - -1. Interpreter Vasquez and Private Smith on the Arkansaw. (2.) - -2. Privates Dougherty and Sparks in the mountains, with frozen feet. -(2.) - -3. Sergeant Meek and Private Miller gone to the relief of the -foregoing. (2.) - -4. Corporal Jackson and one man (Private Carter) left on the Rio -Conejos to await the coming of the foregoing six. (2.) - -5. Dr. Robinson gone ahead to Santa Fe. (1.) - -6. Pike therefore sallies forth under escort of the Spanish dragoons -with the following: Privates Brown, Gorden, Menaugh, Mountjoy, Roy, -Stoute. (7.) - -Total 16, present or accounted for. - - - - -CHAPTER IV. - -PIKE'S DISSERTATION ON LOUISIANA.[IV-1] - - -From the entrance of the Missouri, on the south bank the land is low -until you arrive at Belle Fontaine, four miles from its entrance. In -this distance are several strata of soil, one rising above the other. -As the river is cutting off the north point, and making land on the -south, this is well timbered with oak, walnut, ash, etc. - -From Belle Fontaine to St. Charles the north side of the Missouri is -low, bounded on its banks by timbered land extending from half a mile -to one mile from the river. Six miles below St. Charles, on the south -side, in front of a village called Florissant, is a coal hill, or, as -it is termed by the French, La Charbonniere. This is one solid stone -hill, which probably affords sufficient fuel for all the population of -Louisiana. St. Charles is situated on the west side of the Missouri, -where the hill first joins the river, and is laid out parallel to the -stream. - -The main street is on the first bank, the second on the top of the -hill. On this street is situated a round wooden tower, formerly -occupied by the Spaniards as a fort or guard-house, now converted into -a prison. From this tower you have an extensive view of the river -below. St. Charles consists of about 80 houses, principally occupied -by Indian traders or their engagees. It is the seat of justice for the -district of St. Charles. - -From St. Charles to the village of La Charrette, the west side is -generally low, but with hills running parallel at a great distance -back from the river; the south side is more hilly, with springs. -Scattering settlements are on both sides. - -La Charrette is the last settlement we saw on the Missouri, although -there is one above, at a saline on the west side. From La Charrette to -the Gasconade river, you find on the north low land heavily timbered; -on the south, hills, rivulets, and a small number of small creeks, -with very high cane. The Gasconade is 200 yards wide at its entrance; -it is navigable at certain seasons 100 miles. At the time we were at -it, it was backed by the Mississippi,[IV-2] but was clear and -transparent above their confluence. On the side opposite their -confluence commences the line between the Sac Indians and the United -States. [See p. 339, and note 14, p. 11.] - -From the Gasconade to the entrance of the Osage river, the south side -of the river is hilly but well timbered. On the north are low bottoms -and heavy timber. In this space of the Missouri, from its [the -Gasconade's] entrance to the Osage river, we find it well timbered, -rich in soil, and very proper for the cultivation of all the -productions of our Middle and Western States. It is timbered generally -with cottonwood, ash, oak, pecan, hickory, and some elm; but the -cottonwood predominates on all the made bottoms. From the entrance of -the Osage river to the Gravel river, a distance of 118 miles, the -banks of the Osage are covered with timber and possess a very rich -soil. Small hills, with rocks, alternately border the eastern and -western shores; the bottoms being very excellent soil, and the country -abounding in game. From thence to the Yungar, the river continues the -same in appearance; the shoals and islands being designated on the -chart. The Yungar, or Ne-hem-gar, as termed by the Indians, derives -its name from the vast number of springs at its source; it is supposed -to be nearly as extensive as the Osage river, navigable for canoes 100 -miles, and is celebrated for the abundance of bear which are found on -its branches. On it hunt the Chasseurs du Bois of Louisiana, Osage, -and Creeks or Muskogees, a wandering party of whom have established -themselves in Louisiana; and between whom and the French hunters -frequent skirmishes have passed on the head of the Yungar. - -A few miles above this river the Osage river becomes narrower, and -evidently shows the loss experienced by the deficiency of [gain not as -yet acquired from] the waters of the Yungar. On the east shore is a -pond of water, about 20 paces from the bank of the river, and half a -mile in circumference; it was elevated at least 20 feet above the -surface of the river. This appeared the more singular, as the soil -appeared to be sandy, whence it would be concluded that the waters of -the pond would speedily discharge through the soil into the river; but -there appeared to be no reason for any such deduction. - -Thence to a few miles below the Park (see chart [and diary of Aug. -14th]), the banks of the river continue as usual. We now, for the -first time, were entertained with the sight of prairie land; but it -still was interspersed with clumps of woodland, which diversified the -prospect. - -In this district the cliffs, which generally bordered one of the sides -of the river, were covered with the largest and most beautiful cedars -I ever saw. Thence to the Grand Forks [confluence of Little with main -Osage], the banks of the river continue the same; but thence up to the -Osage town, there is a larger proportion of prairie. At the place -where Mr. Chouteau formerly had his trading-establishment, the east -bank of the river is an entire bed of stone-coal; whence by land by -the villages is but nine miles, but by water at least 50. The country -round the Osage villages is one of the most beautiful the eye ever -beheld. The three branches of the river, viz.: the large east fork -[Sac river], the middle one [Little Osage], up which we ascended, and -the northern one [main Osage], all winding round and past the -villages, giving the advantages of wood and water, and at the same -time the extensive prairies crowned with rich and luxuriant grass and -flowers, gently diversified by the rising swells and sloping lawns, -present to the warm imagination the future seats of husbandry, the -numerous herds of domestic animals, which are no doubt destined to -crown with joy those happy plains. The best comment I can make on the -navigation of the Osage river is a reference to my chart and journal -on that subject. From the last village on the Missouri to the prairies -on the Osage river we found plenty of deer, bear, and some turkeys. -Thence to the towns there are some elk and deer, but near the villages -they become scarce. - -From the Osage towns to the source of the [Little] Osage river there -is no difference in the appearance of the country, except that on the -south and east the view on the prairies becomes unbounded, and is only -limited by the imbecility of our sight. The waters of the White -[Neosho] river and the [Little] Osage are divided merely by a small -ridge in the prairie, and the dry branches appear to interlock at -their head. From thence to the main branch of the said [Neosho] river -the country appeared high, with gravelly ridges of prairie land. On -the main White river is large timber and fine ground for cultivation. -Hence a doubt arises as to the disemboguing of this stream. Lieutenant -Wilkinson, from some authority, has drawn the conclusion that it -discharges itself into the Arkansaw a short distance below the -Vermilion river; but from the voyages of Captain Maney [Many] on White -river, the information of hunters, Indians, etc., I am rather induced -to believe it to be the White river of the Mississippi, as at their -mouths there is not so great a difference between their magnitude; and -all persons agree in ascertaining [asserting] that the White river -heads between the Osage, Arkansaw, and Kansas rivers, which would -still leave the Arkansaw near 800 miles more lengthy than the White -river. From the proofs, I am perfectly confident in asserting that -this was the White river of the Mississippi which we crossed.[IV-3] At -the place where we traversed it, the stream was amply navigable for -canoes, even at this dry season (August) of the year. - -Up this river to the dividing ridges between it and the Verdigrise -river, the bottom is of some magnitude and importance; but the latter -river is bounded here in a narrow bed of prairie hills, affording not -more than sufficient timber for firewood for a limited number of -inhabitants for a few years. From the Verdigrise our course again lay -over gravelly hills and a prairie country, but well watered by the -branches of the Verdigrise and White (alias Grand) rivers. From this -point to the source of White river there is very little timber, the -grass short, prairies high and dry. From the head of White river over -the dividing ridge between that and the eastern [Smoky Hill] branch of -the Kans river, the ridge is high, dry, and has many appearances of -iron ore, and on the west side are some spaw springs [spas]. Here the -country is very deficient of water. From the east branch of the Kans -river (by our route) to the Pawnee Republic on the Republican fork -(see chart), the prairies are low, with high grass; the country -abounds with salines, and the earth appears to be impregnated with -nitrous and common salts. The immediate border of the Republican fork -near the village is high ridges, but this is an exception to the -general face of the country. All the country between the forks of the -Kans river, a distance of 160 miles, may be called prairie, -notwithstanding the borders of woodland which ornament the banks of -those streams, but are no more than a line traced on a sheet of paper, -when compared to the immense tract of meadow country. - -For some distance from the Osage villages you only find deer, then -elk, then cabrie, and finally buffalo. But it is worthy of remark that -although the male buffaloes were in great abundance, yet in all our -route from the Osage to the Pawnees we never saw one female. I -acknowledge myself at a loss to determine whether this is to be -attributed to the decided preference the savages give to the meat of -the females, so that consequently they are almost exterminated in the -hunting-grounds of the nations, or to some physical causes; for I -afterward discovered the females with young in such immense herds as -gave me no reason to believe they yielded to the males in numbers. - -From the Pawnee town on the Kansas river to the Arkansaw, the country -may almost be termed mountainous; but want of timber gives the hills -less claim to the appellation of mountains. They are watered and -created, as it were, by the various branches of the Kans river. One of -those branches, a stream of considerable magnitude (say 20 yards), -which I have designated on the chart by the name of Saline, was so -salt, where we crossed it on our route to the Arkansaw, that it salted -sufficiently the soup of the meat which my men boiled in it. We were -here very eligibly situated; had a fresh spring, issuing from a bank -near us; plenty of the necessaries of life all around, viz.: buffalo; -a beautiful little sugar-loaf hill, for a lookout post; fine grass for -our horses; and a saline in front of us. - -As you approach the Arkansaw on this route within 15 or 20 miles, the -country appears to be low and swampy; or the land is covered with -ponds extending out from the river some distance. The river at the -place where I struck it is nearly 500 yards wide, from bank to bank, -those banks not more than four feet high, thinly covered with -cottonwood. The north side is a swampy low prairie [Cheyenne Bottoms], -and the south a sandy sterile desert. Thence, about halfway to the -mountains, the country continued with low prairie hills, and scarcely -any streams putting into the river; and on the bottom are many bare -spots on which, when the sun is in the meridian, is congealed a -species of salt sufficiently thick to be accumulated, but so strongly -impregnated with nitric qualities as to render it unfit for use until -purified. The grass in this district, on the river bottoms, has a -great appearance of the grass on our salt marshes. From the first -south fork ([Purgatory river] see chart) the borders of the river have -more wood, and the hills are higher, until you arrive at its entrance -into the mountains. The whole of the timber is cottonwood, from the -entrance of the Arkansaw into the mountains to its source, a distance -of about 170 miles by the meanders; it is alternately bounded by -perpendicular precipices and small, narrow prairies, on which the -buffalo and elk have found the means to arrive, and are almost secure -from danger from their destroyer--man. In many places the river -precipitates itself over rocks, so as at one moment to be visible only -in the foaming and boiling of its waters--at the next moment it -disappears in the chasms of the overhanging precipices. - -The Arkansaw[IV-4] river, taking its meanders agreeably to Lieutenant -Wilkinson's survey of the lower part, is 1,981 miles from its entrance -into the Mississippi to the mountains, and from thence to its source -192 miles, making its total length 2,173 miles: all of which may be -navigated with proper boats, constructed for the purpose, except the -192 miles in the mountains. It has emptying into it several small -rivers navigable for 100 miles and upward. Boats bound up the whole -length of the navigation should embark at its entrance on the 1st of -February, when they would have the fresh [high water] quite to the -mountains, and meet with no detention. But if they should start -later, they would find the river 1,500 miles up nearly dry. It has one -singularity which struck me very forcibly at first view, but which, on -reflection, I am induced to believe is the same case with all the -rivers which run through a low, dry, sandy soil in warm climates, as -I observed it to be the case with the Rio del Norte, viz.: for the -extent of 400 or 500 miles before you arrive near the mountains, the -bed of the river is extensive and a perfect sand-bar, which at certain -seasons is dry, or at least the water is standing in ponds not -affording sufficient to procure a running course; but when you come -nearer the mountains you find the river contracted, a gravelly bottom, -and a deep, navigable stream. From these circumstances it is evident -that the sandy soil imbibes all the [not evaporated] waters which the -sources project from the mountains, and renders the river in dry -seasons less navigable 500 than 200 miles from its source. - -The borders of the Arkansaw river may be termed the terrestrial -paradise of our territories for the wandering savages. Of all -countries ever visited by the footsteps of civilized man, there never -was one probably that produced game in greater abundance. We know that -the manners and morals of the erratic nations are such (the reasons I -leave to be given by the ontologists) as never to give them a numerous -population; and I believe that there are buffalo, elk, and deer -sufficient on the banks of the Arkansaw alone, if used without waste, -to feed all the savages in the United States territory one century. By -the route of the Arkansaw and the Rio Colorado of California, I am -confident in asserting, if my information from Spanish gentlemen of -information is correct, there can be established the best -communication, on this side of the Isthmus of Darien, between the -Atlantic and Pacific oceans; as, admitting the utmost, the land -carriage would not be more than 200 miles, and the route may be made -quite as eligible as our public highways over the Alleghany mountains. -The Rio Colorado is to the great Gulph of California what the -Mississippi is to the Gulph of Mexico, and is navigable for ships of -considerable burden, to opposite the upper parts of the province of -Senora. - -From the Arkansaw to the Rio del Norte, by the route I passed, the -country was covered with mountains and small prairies, as per chart; -but the game became much more scarce, owing to the vicinity of the -Spanish Indians and the Spaniards themselves. - -In this western traverse of Louisiana, the following general -observations may be made, viz.: that from the Missouri to the head of -the [Little] Osage river, a distance in a straight line of probably -300 miles, the country will admit of a numerous, extensive, and -compact population; thence, on the rivers Kanses, La Platte, Arkansaw, -and their various branches, it appears to me to be only possible to -introduce a limited population on their banks. The inhabitants would -find it most to their advantage to pay attention to the multiplication -of cattle, horses, sheep, and goats, all of which they can raise in -abundance, the earth producing spontaneously sufficient for their -support, both winter and summer, by which means their herds might -become immensely numerous; but the wood now in the country would not -be sufficient for a moderate share of population more than 15 years, -and it would be out of the question to think of using any of it in -manufactures; consequently, the houses would be built entirely of -mud-brick [adobe], like those in New Spain, or of the brick -manufactured with fire. But possibly time may make the discovery of -coal-mines, which would render the country habitable. - -The source of La Platte is situated in the same chain of mountains -with the Arkansaw (see chart), and comes from that grand reservoir of -snows and fountains which gives birth on its northeastern side to the -Red river of the Missouri (the yellow stone river of Lewis [and -Clark], its great southwestern branch), and La Platte; on its -southwestern side it produces the Rio Colorado of California; on its -east the Arkansaw; and on its south the Rio del Norte of North Mexico. -I have no hesitation in asserting that I can take a position in the -mountains, whence I can visit the source of any of those rivers in one -day.[IV-5] - -Numerous have been the hypotheses formed by various naturalists to -account for the vast tract of untimbered country which lies between -the waters of the Missouri, Mississippi, and the Western Ocean, from -the mouth of the latter river to 48 deg. north latitude. Although not -flattering myself to be able to elucidate that which numbers of highly -scientific characters have acknowledged to be beyond their depth of -research, still I would not think I had done my country justice did I -not give birth to what few lights my examination of those internal -deserts has enabled me to acquire. In that vast country of which I -speak, we find the soil generally dry and sandy, with gravel, and -discover that the moment we approach a stream the land becomes more -humid, with small timber. I therefore conclude that this country never -was timbered; as, from the earliest age the aridity of the soil, -having so few water-courses running through it, and they being -principally dry in summer, has never afforded moisture sufficient to -support the growth of timber. In all timbered land the annual -discharge of the leaves, with the continual decay of old trees and -branches, creates a manure and moisture, which is preserved from the -heat of the sun not being permitted to direct his rays perpendicularly, -but only to shed them obliquely through the foliage. But here a barren -soil, parched and dried up for eight months in the year, presents -neither moisture nor nutrition sufficient to nourish the timber. These -vast plains of the western hemisphere may become in time as celebrated -as the sandy deserts of Africa; for I saw in my route, in various -places, tracts of many leagues where the wind had thrown up the sand -in all the fanciful form of the ocean's rolling wave, and on which not -a speck of vegetable matter existed. - -But from these immense prairies may arise one great advantage to the -United States, viz.: The restriction of our population to some certain -limits, and thereby a continuation of the Union. Our citizens being so -prone to rambling and extending themselves on the frontiers will, -through necessity, be constrained to limit their extent on the west to -the borders of the Missouri and Mississippi, while they leave the -prairies incapable of cultivation to the wandering and uncivilized -aborigines of the country. - -The Osage appear to have emigrated from the north and west; from their -speaking the same language with the Kans, Otos, Missouries, and -Mahaws, together with their great similarity of manners, morals, and -customs, there is left no room to doubt that they were originally the -same nation, but separated by that great law of nature, -self-preservation, the love of freedom, and the ambition of various -characters, so inherent in the breast of man. As nations purely -erratic must depend solely on the chase for subsistence, unless -pastoral, which is not the case with our savages, it requires large -tracts of country to afford subsistence for a very limited number of -souls; consequently, self-preservation obliges them to expand -themselves over a large and extensive district. The power of certain -chiefs becoming unlimited, and their rule severe, added to the -passionate love of liberty and the ambition of young, bold, and daring -characters who step forward to head the malcontents, and like the -tribes of Israel, to lead them through the wilderness to a new -land--the land of promise which flowed with milk and honey, alias -abounded with deer and buffalo--these characters soon succeed in -leading forth a new colony, and in process of time establishing a new -nation. The Mahaws, Missouries, and Otos remained on the banks of the -Missouri river, such a distance up as to be in the reach of that -powerful enemy, the Sioux, who, with the aid of the smallpox, which -the former nations unfortunately contracted by their connection with -the whites, have reduced the Mahaws, formerly a brave and powerful -nation, to a mere cipher, and obliged the Otos and Missouries to join -their forces, so that these now form but one nation. The Kanses and -Osage came further to the east, and thereby avoided the Sioux, but -fell into the hands of the Iowas, Sacs, Kickapous, Potowatomies, -Delawares, Shawanese, Cherokees, Chickasaws, Chactaws, Arkansaws, -Caddoes, and Tetaus; and what astonished me extremely is that they -have not been entirely destroyed by those nations. But it must only be -attributed to their ignorance of the enemies' force, their want of -concert, wars between themselves, and the great renown the invaders -always acquire, by the boldness of their enterprise, in the minds of -the invaded. - -Their government is oligarchical, but still partakes of the nature of -a republic; for, although the power nominally is vested in a small -number of chiefs, yet they never undertake any matter of importance -without first assembling the warriors and proposing the subject in -council, there to be discussed and decided on by a majority. Their -chiefs are hereditary, in most instances, yet there are many men who -have risen to more influence than those of illustrious ancestry, by -their activity and boldness in war. Although there is no regular code -of laws, yet there is a tacit acknowledgment of the right which some -have to command on certain occasions, whilst others are bound to obey, -and even to submit to corporeal punishment; as is instanced in the -affair related in my diary of July 29th, when Has-ha-ke-da-tungar or -Big Soldier, whom I had made a partisan to regulate the movements of -the Indians, flogged a young Indian with arms in his hands. On the -whole, their government may be termed an oligarchical republic, where -the chiefs propose and the people decide on all public acts. - -The manners of the Osage are different from those of any nation I ever -saw except those before mentioned of the same origin, having their -people divided into classes. All the bulk of the nation being warriors -and hunters--with them these terms being almost synonymous--the -remainder is divided into two classes, cooks and doctors; the latter -of whom likewise exercise the functions of priests or magicians, and -have great influence in the councils of the nation by their pretended -divinations, interpretations of dreams, and magical performances. An -illustration of this will be better given by the following anecdote of -what took place during my stay at the nation, in August, 1806: Having -had all the doctors or magicians assembled in the lodge of -Ca-ha-ga-tonga, alias Cheveux Blancs, and about 500 spectators, they -had two rows of fires prepared, around which the sacred band was -stationed. They commenced the tragicomedy by putting a large -butcher-knife down their throats, the blood appearing to run during -the operation very naturally; the scene was continued by putting -sticks through the nose, swallowing bones and taking them out of the -nostrils, etc. At length one fellow demanded of me what I would give -if he would run a stick through his tongue, and let another person cut -off the piece. I replied, "a shirt." He then apparently performed his -promise, with great pain, forcing a stick through his tongue, and then -giving a knife to a bystander, who appeared to cut off the piece, -which he held to the light for the satisfaction of the audience, and -then joined it to his tongue, and by a magical charm healed the wound -immediately. On demanding of me what I thought of the performance, I -replied I would give him 20 shirts if he would let me cut off the -piece from his tongue; this disconcerted him a great deal, and I was -sorry I had made the observation. - -The cooks are either for the general use, or attached particularly to -the family of some great man; and what is the more singular, men who -have been great warriors and brave men, having lost all their families -by disease, in the war, and themselves becoming old and infirm, -frequently take up the profession of cook, in which they do not carry -arms, and are supported by the public or their particular patron. - -They likewise exercise the functions of town criers, calling the -chiefs to council and to feasts; or if any particular person is -wanted, you employ a crier, who goes through the village crying his -name and informing him he is wanted at such a lodge. When received -into the Osage village you immediately present yourself at the lodge -of the chief, who receives you as his guest, where you generally eat -first, after the old patriarchal style. You are then invited to a -feast by all the great men of the village, and it would be a great -insult if you did not comply, at least as far as to taste of their -victuals. In one instance, I was obliged to taste of 15 different -entertainments the same afternoon. You will hear the cooks crying, -"come and eat"--such an one "gives a feast, come and eat of his -bounty." Their dishes were generally sweet corn boiled in buffalo -grease, or boiled meat and pumpkins; but San Oriel [Sans Oreille], -alias Tetobasi, treated me to a dish of tea in a wooden dish, with new -horn spoons, boiled meat, and crullers; he had been in the United -States. Their towns hold more people in the same space of ground than -any places I ever saw. Their lodges are posted with scarcely any -regularity, each one building in the manner, directions, and -dimensions which suit him best, by which means they frequently leave -only room for a single man to squeeze between them; added to this, -they have pens for their horses, all within the village, into which -they always drive them at night, in case they think there is any -reason to believe there is an enemy lurking in the vicinity. - -The Osage lodges are generally constructed with upright posts, put -firmly in the ground, of about 20 feet in height, with a crotch at the -top; they are about 12 feet distant from each other; in the crotch of -those posts are put the ridge-poles, over which are bent small poles, -the ends of which are brought down and fastened to a row of stakes -about five feet in height; these stakes are fastened together with -three horizontal bars, and form the flank walls of the lodge. The -gable ends are generally broad slabs, rounded off to the ridge-pole. -The whole of the building and sides are covered with matting made of -rushes, two or three feet in length and four feet in width, which are -joined together, and entirely exclude the rain. The doors are on the -sides of the building, and generally are one on each side. The fires -are made in holes in the center of the lodge, the smoke ascending -through apertures left in the roof for the purpose. At one end of the -dwelling is a raised platform, about three feet from the ground, which -is covered with bear-skins, generally holds all the little choice -furniture of the master, and on which repose his honorable guests. In -fact, with neatness and a pleasing companion, these dwellings would -compose a very comfortable and pleasant summer habitation, but are -left in the winter for the woods. They vary in length from 36 to 100 -feet. - -The Osage nation is divided into three villages, and in a few years -you may say nations, viz.: the Grand Osage, the Little Osage, and -those of the Arkansaw. - -The Little Osage separated from the Big Osage about 100 years since, -when their chiefs, on obtaining permission to lead forth a colony from -the great council of the nation, moved on to the Missouri; but after -some years, finding themselves too hard pressed by their enemies, they -again obtained permission to return, put themselves under the -protection of the Grand village, and settled down about six miles off. -(See chart.) - -The Arkansaw schism was effected by Mr. Pierre Choteau, 10 or 12 years -ago, as a revenge on Mr. Manuel De Sezei [Liza or Lisa], who had -obtained from the Spanish government the exclusive trade of the Osage -nation, by the way of the Osage river, after it had been in the hands -of Mr. Choteau for nearly 20 years. The latter, having the trade of -the Arkansaw, thereby nearly rendered abortive the exclusive privilege -of his rival. He has been vainly promising to the government that he -would bring them back to join the Grand village. But his reception at -the Arkansaw village, in the autumn of 1806, must have nearly cured -him of that idea. And in fact, every reason induces a belief that the -other villages are much more likely to join the Arkansaw band, which -is daily becoming more powerful, than the latter is to return to its -ancient residence. For the Grand and Little Osage are both obliged to -proceed to the Arkansaw every winter, to kill the summer's provision; -also, all the nations with whom they are now at war are situated to -the westward of that river, whence they get all their horses. These -inducements are such that the young, the bold, and the enterprising -are daily emigrating from the Osage village to the Arkansaw village. -In fact, it would become the interest of our government to encourage -that emigration, if we intend to encourage the extension of the -settlement of Upper Louisiana; but if the contrary (our true policy), -every method should be taken to prevent their elongation from the -Missouri. - -They are considered by the nations to the south and west of them as a -brave and warlike nation; but are by no means a match for the northern -nations, who make use of the rifle, and can combat them two for one; -whilst they again may fight those armed with bows, arrows, and lances, -at the same disproportion. - -The humane policy which the United States have held forth to the -Indian nations, of accommodating their differences and acting as -mediators between them, has succeeded to a miracle with the Osage of -the Grand village and the Little Osage. In short, they have become a -nation of Quakers, as respects the nations to the north and east of -them, at the same time that they continue to make war on the naked and -defenseless savages of the west. An instance of their forbearance was -exhibited in an attack made on a hunting-party of the Little Osage, -in the autumn of 1808, on the grand river of the Osage, by a party of -the Potowatomies, who crossed the Missouri river by the Saline, and -found the women and children alone and defenseless. The men, 50 or 60, -having found plenty of deer the day before, had encamped out all -night. The enemy struck the camp about ten o'clock in the morning, -killed all the women and boys who made resistance, also some infants, -the whole number amounting to 34; and led into captivity near 60, 46 -of whom were afterward recovered by the United States and sent under -my protection to the village. When the men returned to camp, they -found their families all destroyed or taken prisoners. My narrator had -his wife and four children killed on the spot; yet, in obedience to -the injunctions of their great father, they forebore to revenge the -blow. - -As an instance of the great influence the French formerly had over -this nation, the following anecdote may be interesting: Chtoka, alias -Wet Stone, a Little Osage, said he "was at Braddock's defeat, with all -the warriors who could be spared from both villages; that they were -engaged by Mr. M'Cartie, who commanded at Fort Chartres,[IV-6] and who -supplied them with powder and ball; that the place of rendezvous was -near a lake and large fall (supposed to be Niagara); the Kans did not -arrive until after the battle; but the Otos were present. They were -absent from their villages seven months, and were obliged to eat their -horses on their return." - -The Osage raise large quantities of corn, beans, and pumpkins, which -they manage with the greatest economy, in order to make them last from -year to year. All the agricultural labor is done by women. - -If the government think it expedient to establish factories for the -Grand and Little villages, equidistant from both, which would answer -for the Grand and Little villages, the other establishment should be -on the Arkansaw, near the entrance of the Verdigrise river, for the -Arkansaw Osage, as stated by Lieutenant Wilkinson. - -The Pawnees are a numerous nation of Indians, who reside on the rivers -Platte and Kans. They are divided into three distinct nations, two of -them being now at war; but their manners, language, customs, and -improvements are in the same degree of advancement. On La Platte -reside the Grand Pawnees, and on one of its branches the Pawnee Loups, -with whom the Pawnee Republicans are at war. [See note 73, p. 412.] - -Their language is guttural, and approaches nearer to the language of -the Sioux than the Osage; and their figure, tall, slim, with high -cheek-bones, clearly indicates their Asiatic origin. But their -emigration south, and the ease with which they live on the buffalo -plains, have probably been the cause of a degeneracy of manners, for -they are neither so brave nor so honest as their more northern -neighbors. Their government is the same as the Osages', an hereditary -aristocracy, the father handing his dignity of chieftain down to his -son; but their power is extremely limited, notwithstanding the long -life they have to establish their authority and influence. They merely -recommend and give council in the great assemblage of the nation. - -They are not so cleanly, neither do they carry their internal policy -so far as, the Osage; but out of the bounds of the village it appeared -to me that they exceeded them; as I have frequently seen two young -soldiers come out to my camp and instantly disperse a hundred persons, -by the strokes of long whips, who were assembled there to trade with -my men. In point of cultivation [agriculture], they are about equal to -the Osage, raising a sufficiency of corn and pumpkins to afford a -little thickening to their soup during the year. The pumpkin they cut -into thin slices and dry in the sun, which reduces it to a small size, -and not more than a tenth of its original weight. - -With respect to raising horses, the Pawnees are far superior to the -Osage, having vast quantities of excellent horses which they are daily -increasing, by their attention to their breeding mares, which they -never make use of; and in addition they frequently purchase from the -Spaniards. - -Their houses are a perfect circle, except where the door enters, -whence there is a projection of about 15 feet; the whole being -constructed after the following manner: First, there is an excavation -of a circular form made in the ground, about 4 feet deep and 60 in -diameter, where there is a row of posts about 5 feet high, with -crotches at the top, set firmly in all round, and horizontal poles -from one to the other. There is then a row of posts, forming a circle -about 10 feet wide in the diameter of the others, and 10 feet in -height; the crotches of these are so directed that horizontal poles -are also laid from one to the other; long poles are then laid slanting -upward from the lower poles over the higher ones, and meeting nearly -at the top, leaving only a small aperture for the smoke of the fire to -pass out, which is made on the ground in the middle of the lodge. -There is then a number of small poles put up around the circle, so as -to form the wall, and wicker-work is run through the whole. The roof -is then thatched with grass, and earth is thrown up against the wall -until a bank is made to the eaves of the thatch; that is also filled -with earth one or two feet thick, and rendered so tight as entirely to -exclude any storm, and make the houses extremely warm. The entrance is -about six feet wide, with walls on each side, and roofed like our -houses in shape, but of the same materials as the main building. -Inside there are numerous little apartments constructed of wicker-work -against the wall, with small doors; they have a great appearance of -neatness, and in them the members of the family sleep and have their -little deposits. Their towns are by no means so much crowded as the -Osage, giving much more space; but they have the same mode of -introducing their horses into the village at night, which makes it -extremely crowded. They keep guards with the horses during the day. - -They are extremely addicted to gaming, and have for that purpose a -smooth piece of ground cleared out on each side of the village for -about 150 yards in length, on which they play the three following -games: One is played by two players at a time, and in the following -manner: They have a large hoop about four feet in diameter, in the -center of which is a small leather ring; this is attached to leather -thongs which are extended to the hoop, and by that means kept in its -central position; they also have a pole about six feet in length, -which the player holds in one hand; he then rolls the hoop from him, -and immediately slides the pole after it; and the nearer the head of -the pole lies to the small ring within the hoop, when they both fall, -the greater is the cast. But I could not ascertain their mode of -counting sufficiently to decide when the game was won. Another game is -played with a small stick, with several hooks, and a hoop about four -inches in diameter, which is rolled along the ground, and the forked -stick darted after it, the value of the cast being estimated by the -hook on which the ring is caught. This game is gained at 100. The -third game alluded to is that of la platte, described by various -travelers [as the platter or dish game]; this is played by the women, -children, and old men, who, like grasshoppers, crawl out to the circus -to bask in the sun, probably covered only with an old buffalo robe. - -The Pawnees, like the Osage, quit their villages in the winter, making -concealments under ground of their corn, in which [caches] it keeps -perfectly sound until spring. The only nations with whom the Pawnees -are now at war are the Tetaus, Utahs, and Kyaways. The two latter of -these reside in the mountains of North Mexico, and shall be treated -when I speak of the Spanish Indians. The former generally inhabit the -borders of the Upper Red river, Arkansaw, and Rio del Norte. The war -has been carried on by those nations for years, without any decisive -action being fought, although they frequently march with 200 or 300 -men. - -The Pawnees have much the advantage of their enemies in point of arms, -at least one-half having firearms, whilst their opponents have only -bows, arrows, lances, shields, and slings. The Pawnees always march to -war on foot; their enemies are all cavalry. This nation may be -considered as the one equidistant between the Spanish population and -that of our settlements in Louisiana, but are at present decidedly -under Spanish influence, and, should a war commence to-morrow, would -all be in their interest. This circumstance does not arise from their -local situation, because they are all situated on navigable waters of -the Missouri; nor from their interest, because from the Spaniards they -obtain nothing except horses and a few coarse blankets of W. Mexico; -whilst from us they receive all their supplies of arms, ammunition, -and clothing--but all those articles in very small quantities, not -more than half having blankets, and many being without breech-cloths -to cover their nakedness. But the grand principle by which the -Spaniards keep them in their influence is fear, frequently chastising -their small parties on the frontiers. Their sending out the detachment -of 600 horsemen, in 1806, has made such an impression that the -Spaniards may safely calculate on the Pawnees in case of war. This -detachment took with them some of the Pawnees to Chihuahua, at the -same time that I entered the Spanish provinces. But, by our -withholding their supplies of arms, ammunition, and clothing for one -or two years, bringing on their backs the Osage and Kans, the Pawnees -would be in great distress, and feel the necessity of a good -understanding with the United States. - -If there should ever be factories established for their accommodation, -these should be at the entrances of La Platte and Kans rivers, as -those waters are of so uncertain navigation (only in freshets) that it -would be folly to attempt any permanent establishments high up them; -and to make those establishments useful to the Pawnees, we must -presuppose our influence sufficient to guarantee them peace and a safe -passage through the nations of the Kans, Otos, and Missouries--the -former on the Kans river, the two latter on the river Platte. My -journal will give various other striking traits of the national -character of the Pawnees, and my dissertation on the subject of the -Spanish claims will further elucidate the political and relative -situation of that nation. - -The Kans are a small nation, situated on a river of that name (see the -chart), and are in language, manners, customs, and agricultural -pursuits, precisely similar to the Osage; with whom I believe them, as -before observed, to have had one common origin. It may be said, -however, that their language differs in some degree, but not more than -the dialect of our Eastern States differs from that of the Southern. -But in war they are yet more brave than their Osage brethren; being, -although not more than one-third of their number, their most dreaded -enemies, and frequently making the Pawnees tremble. - -The Tetaus, or Camanches as the Spaniards term them, [called] Padoucas -by the Pawnees, are a powerful nation who are entirely erratic, -without the least species of cultivation, and subsist solely by the -chase. But their wanderings are confined to the frontiers of New -Mexico on the W., to the nations on the Lower Red river on the S., to -the Pawnees and Osage on the E., and to the Utahs, Kyaways, and -various unknown nations on the N. This nation, although entirely in -our territories, is claimed exclusively by the Spaniards, and may be -said to be decidedly in their interest, notwithstanding the few who -lately paid a visit to Natchitoches. - -They are the only nation bordering on the Spanish settlements whom -that nation treats as an independent people. They are by the Spaniards -reputed brave--indeed, they have given some very strong evidences of -this; for when I first entered the province of New Mexico, I was shown -various deserted villages and towns beaten down, which had been -destroyed by the Tetaus in an invasion of that province, when they -were at war with the Spaniards about ten years since. - -From the village of Agua Caliente (see chart) they carried off at one -time 2,000 head of horses; but they now have an excellent -understanding with the Spaniards, which Don Facundo Malagare's -[Malgares'] late expedition has served very much to increase. He -personally related his rencounter with the Tetaus in the following -manner: Having been personally apprised of each other's approximation, -and appointed a time for the Indians to receive him on an extensive -prairie, he sallied forth from his camp with 500 men, all on white -horses, excepting himself and his two principal officers, who rode jet -black ones, and was received on the plain by 1,500 of the savages, -dressed in their gay robes, and displaying their various feats of -chivalry. I leave this subject to the judicious, whether the -circumstance would not be handed down to the latest posterity as an -instance of the good will and respect which the Spaniards paid their -nation, as no doubt Malgares had policy sufficient to induce them to -believe that the expedition was principally fitted out with a view to -pay them a visit. As I was not in their country, and did not meet with -any of the wandering parties, I shall not attempt to describe their -manners and customs; but in my statistical tables I shall include -them, agreeably to the best information obtained of their nation. - -I shall here conclude my account of the nations with whom I became -acquainted in our boundaries; as I conceive the Spanish Indians -require a different discussion and attention from a different point of -view, as their missionaries have succeeded with them beyond what we -can form an idea of. My diary will present numerous additional -circumstances, to form an idea of those savages, their manners, -customs, principles, and biases, political and local. - -WASHINGTON CITY, January, 1808. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[IV-1] Chapter IV consists of an article which came first in the App. -to Pt. 2 of the orig. ed., pp. 1-18. This had no number among the -various pieces of which that Appendix was made up; but as it came -first, and the next piece was No. 2, the lack of numeration was a mere -inadvertence, and it is to be taken _pro forma_ as No. 1. It was -lengthily entitled: "A Dissertation On the Soil, Rivers, Productions, -Animal and Vegetable, with General Notes on the Internal Parts of -Louisiana, compiled from observations made by Capt. Z. M. Pike, in a -late tour from the mouth of the Missouri, to the Head Waters of the -Arkansaw and Rio del Norte, in the years 1806 and 1807; including -Observations on the Aborigines of the Country." Such notes as I should -otherwise have to offer on the substance of this Dissertation are for -the most part already made in the foregoing three chapters of the -Itinerary. The present chapter may therefore be passed without remark, -excepting in so far as concerns some new points that come up for -notice. - -[IV-2] Read Missouri--"Mississippi" being the slip of a pen which had -so often written the latter word. The clause means that muddy -backwater from the Missouri ran some way into the Gasconade. - -[IV-3] The river which the Expedition crossed was of course the -Neosho, which Wilkinson was correct in stating to fall into the -Arkansaw a short distance below the Vermilion or Verdigris--"a quarter -of a mile," his Report says. Pike's wrong conclusion is not here -animadverted upon, as it has been set right before; but I wish to note -that the "White river of the Mississippi" has given rise to much -confusion, from the very simple circumstance that it is a branch both -of the Mississippi and of the Arkansaw. It runs into the very crotch -between these two, and has a sort of a delta of its own, as well as a -double debouchment. Various maps consulted on this point, as I have -never been on the spot, differ in that some run White r. into the -Arkansaw, some into the Mississippi, and some into both these rivers. -The latter seems to be the present arrangement; but this may have -repeatedly altered in former times. - -[IV-4] The route from the Missouri, at or near the mouth of the -Kansas--that is, from old Westport (now Kansas City), Mo., and -Independence, Mo.--to the great bend of the Arkansaw, near the mouth -of Walnut cr., was established as an overland highway during the -'20's, when it began to be regularly taken by the traders' caravans en -route to Santa Fe. The trade attained such proportions that some years -merchandise of the value of $250,000 and $450,000 was hauled over this -road: see Gregg's statistics for 1822-43, Comm. Pra., II. 1844, p. -160. Pack-animals or wagons were used, 1822-25, but after that wagons -only; and these soon wore a road as plain as a turnpike. It will be -interesting to go over this road, and identify the camping-grounds of -those hardy pioneers by the modern names of the places on and near -their route; especially as no railroad now follows this primitive -trace exactly. It held a pretty straight westward course, bearing all -the while southward; the distance from the usual starting place -(Independence, Mo.) was called 300 m. roundly, but is somewhat less -than this. The most noted point on the route was Council Grove, so -called since 1825, when the U. S. Commissioners Reeves, Sibley, and -Mathers, who there treated with the Osages, gave the place its present -name. In the most general terms, the road followed the divide between -Kansan waters on the N., or right hand going W., and on the other, -first those of the Osage (a branch of the Missouri), then those of the -Neosho (a branch of the Arkansaw), and finally those of the Arkansaw -itself. But the route was nearly everywhere in the latter water-shed; -after the first few miles, every stream crossed ran to the left. In -some places, the divide between the two sets of streams had little -breadth; one place was called The Narrows, the approximation was so -close. The wagon-train that started from Independence usually left -"the States" the first day out, and entered "the Indian -territory"--that is, it went from the present State of Missouri into -the present State of Kansas; and all the rest of the way to Great Bend -was through the latter. Let us look up some maps and itineraries of -half a century ago--say Gregg's, pub. 1844; Wislizenus', of 1846; and -Beckwith's, 1853--to see what sign-posts they set up. These point to -such places as the following, in regular order from E. to W.: -Independence and Westport, Mo.--Big Blue camp--Round Grove, Lone Elm, -The Glen--Bull cr., Black Jack cr. and pt., Willow springs, and The -Narrows--two Rock creeks in succession--One Hundred and Ten Mile -cr.--Bridge cr.--Dwissler's or Switzler's cr.--five creeks to which -the names First Dragoon, Second Dragoon, Soldier, Prairie Chicken, -Elm, and One Hundred and Forty-two Mile attach in some itineraries and -are to be collated with Fish and Pool, or Fish and Pleasant Valley, of -others--Bluff cr.--Big Rock cr.--Big John spring and cr.--_Council -Grove_, on its own cr.--another Elm cr.--Diamond spring and cr.--Lost -spring and Lost or Willow cr.--Cottonwood cr.--two or three Turkey -creeks in succession--Little Arkansaw r.--several Little Cow creeks, -among them one called Chavez or Charez and Owl--Big Cow cr.--approach -to the Arkansaw r. at Camp Osage--up the Arkansaw to Walnut cr. and -thus to Great Bend. From such _indicia_ as these it may not be -difficult to reopen the road in terms of modern geography. 1. -Independence maintains its independence as the seat of Jackson Co., -Mo., 2 or 3 m. S. of the Missouri r., and about the same E. of Big -Blue cr.; but Westport is practically absorbed in the suburbs of -Kansas City, Mo. Starting from Independence, the first halt on the -prairie, after crossing Big Blue r., was likely to be "Big Blue camp." -This was about the heads of Brush cr., a small tributary of the Big -Blue from the W., and in the vicinity of present Glenn. Being nearly -on the present inter-State boundary, it was the "jumping-off place" -from "the States," where the traveler entered "the Indian territory." -The military road between Forts Towson (on Red r.) and Leavenworth -passed by. A little to the N. W. was the Shawnee agency and mission, -on a branch of Turkey cr., the first tributary of the Kansas from the -S.; Shawnee is there now, and other places on Turkey cr. are called -Merriam, South Park, and Rosedale; the Kansas City, Fort Scott, and -Gulf R. R. meanders Turkey cr. into Kansas City. The position is about -lat. 38 deg. 59' N. and long. 94 deg. 35' W. 2. About 5 m. further S. W. the -road passed by Lenexa, Johnson Co., and a camp could be made on a head -of Indian cr., which is a small stream joined by Tomahawk cr. before -it reaches the Big Blue. The road continued S. W., approximately by -the present S. Kan. R. R., and thus past Olathe, now seat of Johnson -Co., where six tracks diverge in various directions. This is in the -center of the county, near the head of Indian cr., on the head of Mill -cr., a tributary of the Kansas, and near the head of a branch of Cedar -cr., another Kansan affluent. 3. "Round Grove," "Lone Elm," or "The -Glen" was a camping-place on one of the heads of Cedar cr., between -Olathe and the village of Gardner; it was reckoned 15 m. from Big Blue -camp, and 22 m. from Westport. Thus far the Santa Fe route coincided -with the even more celebrated "Oregon trail." But at a point beyond -Gardner, in the direction of Edgerton, and 6 or 8 m. from Round Grove, -the road forked--that is, the Oregon trail struck off to the right in -the N. W. direction of the Kansas, while the Santa Fe trail kept on -the left-hand fork westward. 4. Bull cr. is still so called, or -specified as Big Bull cr. to distinguish it from Little Bull cr. -which, with other tributaries, such as Rock, Ten Mile, and Wea, it -receives before it falls into Marais des Cygnes (main Osage) r. This -is the creek on which is Paola, seat of Miami Co., near the junction -of Wea cr., and it was the first of the Osage waters which the road -crossed. The crossing was high up on its main course, between Gardner -and Edgerton, whence the road continued W. from Johnson into Douglas -Co. 5. From the crossing of Bull cr. it is 9 m. to Black Jack cr. and -pt., so called from the kind of oak (_Quercus nigra_) which grows -there. Black Jack is still the name of a place between the heads of -Captain cr. (tributary of the Kansas) and Rock cr. (a branch of Bull -cr.); it is 3 m. due E. of Baldwin City. 6. "Willow springs" was a -noted camping place W. of Baldwin City, on one of the heads of Ottawa -cr., which flows southward into the Marais des Cygnes r., a little -below Ottawa, county seat of Franklin. The distance of Willow springs -from the crossing of Black Jack cr. is 101/2 m. Willow springs seems to -be the same place that was called Wakarusa pt., or was at any rate -very near it. Here the approximation of Kansan and Osage waters is -very close, and this is the place which consequently became known as -"The Narrows." The interlocking is between several heads of the Ottawa -cr. just said and some tributaries of Cole cr., a branch of the -Wakarusa. Camp could also be made at a place called Hickory pt., short -of Willow springs by 3 or 4 m. 7. Two "Rock" creeks were passed at -distances given as 9 and 12 m. from Willow springs by some writers, -and quite differently by others; some also mention but one "Rock" cr. -Eight Mile cr. was headed if not crossed by the road; and beyond this -the road crossed one or both heads of Appanoose cr. These creeks are -tributaries of the Marais des Cygnes, falling in a mile apart at -Ottawa and just beyond. Part of the uncertainty about these "Rock" -creeks arose from the fact that they often ran dry, were woodless, and -thus ineligible for camping-grounds; hence they would often be passed -without remark. The names seem to me to apply rather to the two forks -of the Appanoose than to the main fork of the latter and to Eight Mile -cr. 8. One Hundred and Ten Mile cr., which still floats its long name, -was so called because it was taken to be 110 m. from Fort Osage, our -earliest establishment of the kind on the Missouri. This was built in -Sept., 1808, at Fort Point (present Sibley: see L. and C., ed. 1893, -p. 30), and was sometimes called Fort Clark. The creek in mention was -crossed at a point taken to be 24 m. from Willow springs, and thus in -the vicinity of present Scranton, Osage Co. It is a branch of the -Dragoon cr. we have next to consider. 9. Continuing nearly due W., the -road crossed several heads of present Dragoon cr., in the vicinity of -Burlingame, Osage Co. This is a comparatively large creek, which runs -southeastward to fall into the Marais des Cygnes near Quenemo. That -one of the several heads of Dragoon cr. on which Burlingame is -situated is now called Switzler's cr.; the next beyond is the main -source of Dragoon cr., into which a branch called Soldier's cr. falls, -about 2 m. W. of Burlingame. But none of the older itineraries I have -consulted speak of either "Dragoon" or "Soldier's" cr.; instead of -which, they give a certain Bridge cr., as crossed 8 m. W. of One -Hundred and Ten Mile cr. This is precisely the distance given by -Beckwith for his "Dwissler's" cr. No doubt "Switzler" and "Dwissler" -are the same person's names; but whether this has always been applied -to the same creek may well be doubted. The "First Dragoon" cr. is now -Dragoon cr.; the "Second Dragoon" cr. is now Soldier's cr.; these were -passed near their confluence. 10. In the next few miles the road -crossed in rapid succession several heads of the Marais des Cygnes -itself, thus finishing with the Osage water-shed. Three of these are -now known as Onion, Chicken or Prairie Chicken, and Elm; the latter is -the main head, and seems to be the one which appears as "Fish" cr. in -the early narratives--the name by which it is mapped both by Gregg and -by Wislizenus. A fourth head of the Marais des Cygnes which the road -crossed is that now known as One Hundred and Forty-two Mile cr., which -joins the main stream much lower down than the other three. This is -mapped by Gregg as Pool cr. and by Wislizenus as Pleasant Valley cr. -All four of these streams are crossed in Lyon Co., the boundary -between this and Osage Co. having been passed at long. 95 deg. 50' 57'' W. -nearly. 11. The road continued across Big Rock cr., having first -passed its branch, Bluff cr. This is a tributary of the Neosho. It is -probable that the Bluff cr. of early writers refers to the main Big -Rock rather than to the branch now called Bluff, as it is the last one -they give before coming to--12. Big John cr., another tributary of the -Neosho, which was crossed immediately before Council Grove was -reached; on which account, as well as for its beautiful spring and -eligible camping-ground, it early became noted under the name it still -bears. 13. Council Grove, now the seat of Morris Co. This was always -the most marked place on the route--a sort of halfway station between -the Missouri settlements and the great bend of the Arkansaw. Its area -was indefinitely extensive along the wooded bottom-land of the Neosho, -or, as it was called here, Council Grove cr.; but as the situation -became peopled, settlement was made chiefly on the W. or right bank of -the stream, at the mouth of Elm cr., a tributary from the W. This is -not far from the center of a tract about 45 m. square known as the -Kansas Trust Lands, of which the Kansas Diminished Reserve is a -southwestern portion. Council Grove is only some 8 m. from the -boundary between Lyon and Morris Co., which runs on a meridian close -by the course of Big Rock cr. 14. The road continued W. up the left or -N. bank of Elm cr. for about 8 m., crossed it at or near present -station Milton of the Topeka, Salina, and Western R. R., and went on -S. W. to Diamond spring, about 8 m. further. This was a camping place -high up on the waters of Diamond or, as it is also called, Six Mile -cr., a branch of the Cottonwood. 15. Hence W. about 16 m. to Lost -spring, on Lost or Clear cr.--that branch of the Cottonwood which -falls in at Marion. This place is a little over the border of Marion -Co., and a town or station Lost Spring perpetuates the name, at the -point where the Chicago, Kansas, and Nebraska R. R. crosses a branch -of the A., T., and S. F. R. R. 16. From Lost spring the route turned -S. W. 17 m. to the Cottonwood, approximately by the present railroad -line, and struck that river at or near Durham, Marion Co. 17. -Continuing S. W. and then bearing more nearly W., the road passed by -or near Canton and thence to McPherson, both in the county of the -latter name. Both are situated among the heads of Turkey cr., a branch -of the Little Arkansaw; two or three of these were crossed. When two -were noted, it used to be by the names of Little and Big Turkey -creeks; map names are now Running Turkey, Turkey, and West Turkey; -McPherson is on the last of these, some 25 m. from the crossing of the -Cottonwood. The Turkey creeks vary very much in character with season -and the weather. 18. The road continued about 20 m. to the crossing of -the Little Arkansaw, in the vicinity of the place now called Little -River. 19. In 10 m. the road reached one of the tributaries of Cow -cr., and it was 10 more before all of these were passed; there are -five or six of them, and some hardly ever run water. One of them is -now called "Jarvis" cr.: see note 10, p. 424. Another is known as Long -Branch; between this and Little Cow cr. is Lyons, seat of Rice Co., -and beyond this Big Cow cr. is crossed. 20. The road now makes for the -Arkansaw on a due W. course, and comes on to that river at a place -which was known as Camp Osage, in the vicinity of present Ellinwood, -Barton Co. This town is only 3 m. from the mouth of Walnut cr., and -the city of Great Bend is a mile or two beyond that. - -[IV-5] This wild notion was a pet of Pike's, which he indulged to the -extent of embodying it in the title of his book, and making his map -fit it. No man can go, afoot or on horseback, in anything like one -day, from any possible position, to the sources of all those rivers. -It can be taken as an indication of the really close approximation of -certain pairs of rivers, which drain from opposite sides of the same -range, or made elastic enough to suit the situation about Mt. Lincoln, -where some heads of the Grand, the Arkansaw, and the South Platte -approximate; but the other rivers are entirely out of the question. -Owing to Pike's ignorance of the existence of the _North_ Platte, all -that he says in various places of his hypothetical Yellowstone comes -nearer the facts in the case of the Platte. "La Platte" he only knew -from the sources of the _South_ Platte. - -[IV-6] This "Mr. M'Cartie" was Le Chevalier Macarty, Makarty, etc., -who in 1751 succeeded Le Sieur de St. Clair as major-commandant of the -Illinois. He was by birth an Irishman, became a major of engineers, -and served about nine years in the position indicated. The far-famed -Fort Chartres is called by Wallace "the only great architectural work -of the French in the entire basin of the Mississippi, over which, in -succession, had proudly floated the flags of two powerful nations." -Old Fort Chartres, or De Chartres, supposed to have been so named for -the Duc de Chartres, son of the then Regent of France, was built in -1719 and 1720, under the direction of Pierre Duque de Boisbriant, the -king's lieutenant for France, at the expense of the Company of the -West; it at once became military headquarters and the center of -authority, and was long prominent in the French history of Illinois. -It was rebuilt in 1753-56 during Major Macarty's incumbency, upon the -plans of the French engineer Saucier, at an estimated cost of -5,000,000 livres; and this "new Chartres" is described as a "huge -structure of masonry, an object of wonder and curiosity to all who -ever beheld it"--some of these being antiquarians of the present day. -The historic fortress suffered encroachments of the Mississippi for -several years; it was finally dilapidated during a freshet in 1772, -then evacuated by the British garrison, which removed to Fort Gage, -and never reoccupied. We have many memorials of the progress of its -decay, as well as of the period of its greatness: see Wallace's -Illinois and Louisiana under French rule, 1893, pp. 270, 271, 313-318, -which include various important references, notably to Pittman, whose -description of the fort as it was in 1766 is transcribed, and to -Beck's Gazetteer, giving a plan of the fort from observations made in -1820. The name stands for a steamboat landing near Prairie du Rocher, -Randolph Co., Ill. - - - - -CHAPTER V. - -WILKINSON'S REPORT ON THE ARKANSAW.[V-1] - - - New Orleans, April 6th, 1807. - -Sir: Agreeably to your order dated in June, 1806, I took my departure -from Belle Fontaine, under the command of Lieutenant Pike, early in -July [15th]. The Missouri being well up, we found the navigation as -favorable as could have been expected. On the 28th of the same month -we reached the mouth of the Osage river, which we found a pellucid, -tranquil stream, with the exception of a few trifling ripples, and a -fall of about six feet in two-thirds of a mile, called the Old Man's -Rapid. The river abounds with various kinds of good fish, especially -the soft-shelled turtle [_Trionyx_ or _Aspidonectes ferox_], which we -took in great numbers. The banks of the river are generally formed by -craggy cliffs, and not unfrequently you perceive stupendous rocks -projecting over the water, out of which issue excellent springs. The -most remarkable natural curiosity which I observed is a pond of water, -about 300 toises[V-2] in circumference, six miles above the Yanga -[Yungar, Nehemgar, or Niangua river], on a rising piece of ground, -considerably above the level of the river, which keeps one continued -height, is perfectly pure and transparent, and has no outlet by which -to discharge. - -On the 12th of August the Osages appeared dissatisfied with the -tedious movement of our barges, and expressed a wish to cross the -prairie to their villages, in case an escort were allowed them. I -immediately volunteered my services, and we parted with the boats at -the mouth of Grand river [the branch of the Osage], the spot where our -ransomed prisoners were taken the preceding winter by the -Potowatomies. We reached the village of the Little Osages after a -fatiguing and laborious march of six days across an arid prairie. - -When within a mile of the town, the chief Tuttasuggy, or Wind, desired -that a regular procession might be observed; he accordingly placed me -between himself and his first warrior, and the ransomed captives -followed by files. Half a mile from the village we were met by 180 -horsemen, painted and decorated in a very fanciful manner; they were -considered as a guard of honor, and on our approach opened to the -right and left, leaving a sufficient space for us to pass through. A -few yards in advance, on the right, I perceived 60 or more horsemen -painted with blue chalk; when the chief observed them, he commanded a -halt, and sent forward his younger brother Nezuma, or Rain that Walks, -with a flag and silk handkerchief as a prize for the swiftest -horseman. At a given signal they started off at full speed, the two -foremost taking the flag and handkerchief, and the rest contenting -themselves with having shown their agility and skill. As I entered the -village I was saluted by a discharge from four swivels which the -Indians had taken from an old fort [Fort Carondelet: see note 41, p. -384] erected by the Spaniards on the river, and passed through a crowd -of nearly a thousand persons, part of whom I learned were of the Grand -village. I was immediately, but with ceremony, ushered into the lodge -of Soldier of the Oak, who, after having paid me some very handsome -compliments, courteously invited me to eat of green corn, -buffalo-meat, and water-melons about the size of a 24-pound shot, -which, though small, were highly flavored. - -After Lieutenant Pike's arrival with the boats, we formed our camp on -the bank of the river, equidistant from the villages of the Grand and -Little Osages, and he selected a situation for making his -observations, which he did not complete until the 28th of the month. -The 29th and 30th were devoted to packing as conveniently and -carefully as possible the mathematical instruments and a small -quantity of provisions. On the 1st of September we commenced our march -for the Pawnee Republic, and entered on that vast and extensive -prairie which lies between the Missouri and the Rio del Norte. - -We coursed the [Little] Osage river to its source, and almost -immediately crossed some of the small branches of Grand [Neosho] -river, which enters the Arkansaw about 700 miles from the Mississippi. -After passing Grand river, which we found to be 60 or 80 yards wide, -we marched a whole day [week[V-3]] before we reached the waters of the -Kansas, and were agreeably surprised to find ourselves on the bank of -a bold running stream [Smoky Hill fork]. Between this and the village -of the Pawnees we crossed two strongly impregnated salines. We then -passed over a sandy country almost destitute of herbage; and after a -painful march under an oppressive sun, over an irregular and broken -surface, we arrived at the town of the Republican Pawnees on the 25th -of September. - -We the day before were met by a number of warriors whom curiosity had -led thus far to see us, among whom was the third consequential -character of the Republican party; for you must know that the village -is composed of the followers of a dissatisfied warrior who first made -this establishment, and the adherents of a regular chief of the Grand -Pawnees who migrated thither some few years since with his family, and -usurped the power of the Republican warrior. To such a pitch does this -party spirit prevail that you easily perceive the hostility which -exists between the adherents of the two chiefs. - -Early on the morning of the 25th we were joined by a few more savages -of distinction, headed by the brother of Characterish, or White Wolf, -chief of the nation, who was to act as master of the ceremonies to our -formal entry. Preparatory to our march, we had our men equipped as -neatly as circumstances would admit. About mid-day we reached the -summit of a lofty chain of ridges, where we were requested to halt and -await the arrival of the chief, who was half a mile from us, with 300 -horsemen, who were generally naked, except buffalo robes and breech -cloths, and painted with white, yellow, blue, and black paint. At the -word of the chief the warriors divided, and, pushing on at full speed, -flanked us on the right and left, yelling in a most diabolical manner. -The chief advanced in front, accompanied by Iskatappe, or Rich Man, -the second great personage of the village and his two sons, who were -clothed in scarlet cloth. They approached slowly, and when within 100 -yards the three latter halted; Characterish advanced in great state, -and when within a few paces of us stretched out his hand and cried, -"_Bon jour_." Thus ended the first ceremony. We moved on about a mile -further, and having gained the summit of a considerable hill, we -discovered the village directly at its base. We here were again -halted, and the few Osages who accompanied us were ordered in front -and seated in rank entire. The chief squatted on his hams in front of -them and filled a calumet, which several different Indians took from -him and handed the Osages to smoke. This was called the horse-smoke, -as each person who took the pipe from the chief intended to present -the Osages a horse. Mr. Pike and Dr. Robinson afterward accompanied -the chief to his lodge, and I moved on with the detachment and formed -our camp on the opposite bank of the Republican fork of the Kansas -river, on a commanding hill which had been selected as the most -favorable situation for making observations, though very inconvenient -on account of wood and water, which we had to transport nearly a -quarter of a mile. - -At a council held some few days after our arrival, Lieutenant Pike -explained to them the difference of their present situation and that -of a few years past; that now they must look up to the president of -the United States as their great father; that he [Pike] had been sent -by him [Jefferson] to assure them of his good wishes, etc.; that he -perceived a Spanish flag flying at the council-lodge door, and was -anxious to exchange one of their great father's for it; and that it -was our intention to proceed further to the westward, to examine this, -our newly acquired country. To this a singular and extraordinary -response was given--in fact, an objection started in direct opposition -to our proceeding further west; however, they gave up the Spanish -flag, and we had the pleasure to see the American standard hoisted in -its stead. - -At the same council Characterish observed that a large body of -Spaniards had lately been at his village, and that they promised to -return and build a town adjoining his. The Spanish chief, he said, -mentioned that he was not empowered to council with him; that he came -merely to break the road for his master, who would visit him in the -spring with a large army; that he further told him the Americans were -a little people, but were enterprising, and one of those days would -stretch themselves even to his town; that they took the lands of -Indians, and would drive off their game; "and how very truly," said -Characterish, "has the Spanish chieftain spoken!" We demanded to -purchase a few horses, which was prohibited, and the friendly -communication which had existed between the town and our camp was -stopped. The conduct of our neighbors assumed a mysterious change; our -guards were several times alarmed, and finally appearances became so -menacing as to make it necessary for us to be on our guard day and -night. - -It was obvious that the body of Spaniards, who preceded us but a few -weeks in their mission to this village, were the regular cavalry and -infantry of the province of Santa Fee, as they had formed their camps -in regular order; also we were informed they kept regular guards, and -that the beats of their drum were uniform morning and evening. The -Spanish leader, further, delivered to Characterish a grand medal, two -mules, and a commission bearing the signature of the governor, civil -and military, of Santa Fee. He also had similar marks of distinction -for the Grand Pawnees, the Pawnee Mahaws, Mahaws Proper, Otos, and -Kanses. - -On the 6th of October we made some few purchases of miserable horses -at the most exorbitant prices, and on the 7th, unmoved by the threats -of the chief relative to our proceeding further to the west, we -marched in a close and compact body until we passed their village, and -took the large beaten Spanish trace for the Arkansaw river. We passed -the following day [8th] an encampment of the Spaniards, where we -counted 69 fires. On the 9th, as usual, made an easy march; and about -noon, when we halted to refresh ourselves, were overtaken by 300 -Pawnees, on their way to the salines of the Kanses to hunt buffalo. -Their every act showed a strong disposition to quarrel, and in fact -they seemed to court hostility; but, finding us without fear and -prepared, to a man, they offered no outrage. Having grazed our horses -an hour, we parted from this turbulent band, slung our packs, -proceeded to Solomon's Fork of the Kanses, and pitched our tents on an -old encampment of the Spaniards whose trace we were following, as we -found the next morning [10th] many tent-pins made of wood different -from any in that country. At mid-day Lieutenant Pike, Dr. Robinson, -and the interpreter Baroney pushed on to search for water, and I -remained with the troops. I pushed on as briskly as our poor -half-famished horses would permit, but at nightfall could discover -nothing of Mr. Pike, and had not a tree in view. This induced me to -quicken my pace; and, as darkness had rendered my compass useless, I -coursed by the polar star; but the horizon becoming overcast, I halted -on a naked stony prairie, without water or grass for our horses. On -the following morning [11th] I directed my course more to the -southward, and about ten o'clock came to the [which?] creek and -encampment of Lieut. Pike. Late in the evening of the same day [11th], -after passing over a mountainous tract of country, we reached the -Grand Saline, which we found so strongly impregnated as to render -unpalatable corn boiled in it. On the 12th, after a distressing day's -march, we reached the Second or Small Saline, and on the following day -[13th] encamped on the most western [Smoky Hill] branch of the Kanses -river.[V-4] - -We were detained, on the morning of the 13th [14th], by a small rain; -but as time was pressing, we marched about noon, crossed the dividing -ridge of the Kanses and Arkansaw rivers, and halted on a small branch -of the latter. For several days past we had been so bewildered by -buffalo paths that we lost the Spanish trace; and this being an object -of moment, we resolved to make search for it. Accordingly, on the -following day [15th] at noon, Mr. Pike and Dr. Robinson struck off -from the party on a due west course, and I marched the detachment for -a copse of wood which we could barely discern in the southwest, and -reached it about midnight. At day-break I was awakened by my old and -faithful Osage, who informed me that we were on the banks of the -Arkansaw river. I immediately arose, and discovered my tent to have -been pitched on the margin of a water-course nearly 400 yards wide, -with banks not three feet high, and a stream of water running through -it about 20 feet in width and not more than six or eight inches deep. - -I remained here four days in great anxiety and suspense, as neither -Mr. Pike nor Dr. Robinson made their appearance, nor could be found, -although I had all my hunters out in search of them. But I was -agreeably surprised on the fifth[V-5] day, early in the morning, by -their arrival. It appeared that our apprehensions were mutual, as they -expected I had been cut off, and I believed they had been murdered. - -On the 17th it commenced raining and continued for several days, -during which time the river rose so much as to fill its bed from bank -to bank. Lieutenant Pike having determined that I should descend the -Arkansaw, we cut down a small green Cottonwood, and with much labor -split out a canoe, which being insufficient, we formed a second of -buffalo and elk skins. - -After the rain had ceased the weather became extremely cold, and on -the 27th, in the evening, a severe snow-storm commenced and continued -nearly all night. In the morning [of the 28th[V-6]] the river was -almost choked with drifting ice; but the sun bursting out at noon, the -ice disappeared, and I took leave of Mr. Pike, who marched up the -river at the moment I embarked on board my newly constructed canoe. -Unfortunately, we had not proceeded more than 100 yards when my boats -grounded, and the men were obliged to drag them through sand and ice -five miles, to a copse of woods on the southwestern bank. I here -hauled up my canoe, formed a kind of cabin of it, and wrapped myself -up in my buffalo-robe, disheartened and dissatisfied with the -commencement of my voyage. The night was severely cold, and in the -morning [29th] the river was so full of ice as to prevent all -possibility of proceeding. The day continued stormy, with snow from -the northwest. - -On the 30th the river was frozen up, and toward evening the water had -run off and left the bed of the river covered with ice. This -circumstance determined me to leave my canoes and course the river by -land. Accordingly, on the 31st of October, after having thrown away -all my clothing and provision, except half a dozen tin cups of hard -corn for each man, I slung my rifle on my shoulder, and with my -buffalo-robe at my back and circumferentor in my hand, I recommenced -my march with a light and cheerful heart. My only apprehension was -that I might meet with detached bands of the Pawnees, who, I am -confident, would have brought me and my five men [Ballenger, Boley, -Bradley, Huddleston, Wilson] to action; and what the consequence of -this would have been is very obvious. - -On the 1st, 2d, and 3d of November I marched over high and barren -hills of sand; at the close of each day passed strongly impregnated -salines, and perceived the shores of the river to be completely -frosted with nitre. The face of the country, as I descended, looked -more desolate than above, the eye being scarcely able to discern a -tree; and if one was discovered, it proved to be a solitary -cottonwood, stinted in growth by the sterility of the soil. The -evening of the 3d instant I encamped on the bank of the river, without -a tree or even a shrub in view. On the 4th we experienced a heavy -rain; but hunger and cold pressed me forward. After marching 10 miles -I reached a small tree, where I remained in a continued rain for two -days [5th, 6th], at the expiration of which time, having exhausted my -fuel, I had again [7th] to push off in a severe storm, and formed my -camp at the mouth of a bold running stream [probably Cow creek[V-7]], -whose northern bank was skirted by a chain of lofty ridges. - -On the 8th, in the morning, it having cleared up, I began my march -early, and it appeared as if we had just gotten into the region of -game; for the herds of buffalo, elk, goat [antelope], and deer -surpassed credibility. I do solemnly assert that, if I saw one, I saw -more than 9,000 buffaloes during the day's march. - -On the 10th, in the evening, after a severe day's march, I encamped on -the bank of a large creek [probably Little Arkansaw[V-8]], and -discovered for the first time on the river a species of wood differing -from the cotton tree. I assure you the sight was more agreeable than -a person would imagine; it was like meeting with an old acquaintance -from whom I had been separated a length of time. I even began to think -myself approximating civilized settlements, although I was just -entering on the hunting-ground of the Osages. - -The buffaloes and goats disappeared on the 12th, or rather we had -passed their range and entered that of the deer only. Our marches were -through rich narrow bottoms from 150 to 200 yards wide. - -On the 15th, discovering timber sufficiently large to form canoes, I -felled a couple of trees, and commenced splitting out. I would have -proceeded further by land, but as my men were almost worn out with -fatigue, and as the game grew scarce, I conceived it most advisable to -rest for a short time, and kill my winter's store of meat. This I -effected by the 24th, and on the same day completed the canoes. On the -25th I again attempted the navigation of the river, but was as -unfortunate as at first; for my boat grounded, after floating a few -hundred yards, and the men were consequently compelled to ply with -their shoulders instead of their paddles. - -The following day I passed the Negracka [read Ninnescah[V-9]], at -whose mouth commence the craggy cliffs which line a great part of the -shores of the Arkansaw. - -On the 28th the provision canoe overset, and I lost nearly all my -stock of meat; this accident was rendered the more distressing by an -almost total loss of my ammunition, which unfortunately was in the -same canoe. - -On the 30th, I fell in with a band of Grand Osages, who were in -pursuit of buffalo cows; the chief of the party insisted on my -remaining with him a day, and sent out his young men to hunt for me. -In the afternoon two Indians of the Osage nation joined us, with a -horse and mule, and brought me a message from Tuttasuggy, or Wind, who -it appeared was lying very ill, about 20 miles across the prairie, and -wished to see me. As he was a particular favorite of mine, I left my -canoes in charge of the men, and passed with a guide to the chief's -temporary village. I found him extremely unwell, with what I conceived -to be a dropsy, for his abdomen was very much swollen. He seemed -gratified at the sight of me, and observed that he was poor and -pitiful, for the reason that he was a friend to the Americans. He said -that Chouteau, upon arrival at their villages last fall, had treated -him like a child; had taken on to Washington his younger brother -Nezuma, or Rain that Walks, and intended making him [Nezuma] chief of -the nation; that Chouteau told him he [Tuttasuggy] was a "bad man," -and an "American" [_i. e._, a friend of the Americans]; that the -Spaniards were going to war with America, and in a short time would -claim all this country again; and that he [Chouteau] prevented the -traders from allowing credit, whereby his [Tuttasuggy's] family were -much distressed--as I clearly perceived, for they were even destitute -of a whole blanket. - -This Nezuma, whom Chouteau took on to Washington last fall with his -wife, I am better acquainted with than perhaps Mr. Chouteau himself. -In the first place, I marched with him from St. Louis to his town, and -he started with us to visit the Pawnees; but the mean and pitiful -wretch got alarmed and sneaked off without even advising us of his -departure. He has no more command in the village than a child, is no -warrior, and has not even the power to control the will of a single -man of his nation. Whether this youth is entitled to a grand medal, -you may judge from the foregoing statement. Indeed, Sir, our grand -medals have become so common that they do not carry with them the -respect which they should. I recollect that one of the deputation who -was at the seat of government, the year before last, came out with a -large medal and an intermediate-sized one. On our arrival at the -villages, I calculated on his acting a conspicuous part; but, to my -utter astonishment, he was not permitted to sit among the chiefs, or -even the warriors, at the council. - -You well know, Sir, how particular the Spaniards, and the British -especially, have been in their distribution of medals; and if I -mistake not, an Iowa chief, who had been to the seat of government and -there received a small medal, returned it in preference to giving up a -large British medal which he valued more, because it was a certain -distinguishing mark of a chief. - -You gave to Mr. Pike an intermediate-sized medal for one of the Pawnee -chiefs; this he presented to Iskatappe, who, having remarked the -medals pendent from the necks of the two Pawnee young men who had been -to Washington, demanded of what utility it would be to him. The only -Spanish medals in the Pawnee nation are those worn by Characterish, or -White Wolf, and his son. - -The following sarcastic remark was made by the son of Bel Oiseau, a -chief of the first standing among the Grand Osages while living, who -unfortunately was killed by the Sacs on his way to Washington with the -first deputation. The son of White Hairs, with Shenga Wassa, or -Beautiful Bird [Bel Oiseau], was to accompany us to the Pawnee -village; but the former proved recreant, and at the crossing of Grand -[Neosho] river said he would return home. "Shame on you!" said the -latter; "what a pity it is so great and honorable a medal should be -disgraced by so mean a heart!" - -You will pardon this digression, but I would wish to convince you, -from what I have seen of Indians, how very requisite it is to use the -utmost caution in the distribution of our presents and marks of -distinction. - -Before I set out to visit Tuttasuggy, the ice had commenced drifting -in large sheets, and on my return I found it running from shore to -shore. However, I pushed off and drifted with it. - -The night of the 2d of December was intensely cold, but hunger obliged -me to proceed, and we fortunately reached the mouth of the Neskalonska -[Salt fork of the Arkansaw[V-10]] river without accident or injury, -excepting that one of my men got frosted. This day we passed two -salines which enter on the southwestern side. - -The severity of the weather increased, and the river froze over on the -morning of the 3d. This circumstance placed me in a situation truly -distressing, as my men were almost naked; the tatters which covered -them were comfortless, and my ammunition was nearly exhausted. The men -solicited me to hut, but I was resolved by perseverance and exertion -to overcome, if in my power, the obstacles opposed to my progress. - -The Neskalonska is about 120 yards wide, shoal and narrow at its -mouth, but deepens and spreads after you turn the first point. On -this stream the Grand and Little Osages form their temporary fall -hunting-camps, and take their peltries. When the severity of winter -sets in, the Grand Osages retire to Grosse Isle, on the Verdigrise or -Wasetihoge;[V-11] and the Little Osages to one of its small branches -called Possitonga, where they remain during the hard weather, and -thence return to their towns on the Neska or [Little] Osage river. - -On the 6th the ice began to drift, and I immediately pushed off with -it; but as my evil stars would have it, my boats again grounded. Being -in the middle of the river, my only alternative was to get out and -drag them along for several miles, when we halted to warm our benumbed -feet and hands. The next day several large cakes of ice had blocked up -the river, and we had to cut our way through them with axes; the boats -as usual grounded, and the men, bare-legged and bare-footed, were -obliged to leap into the water. This happened so frequently that two -more of them got badly frosted. - -On the 8th one of my canoes was driven on a bank of ice during a -snow-storm, and did not overtake me until the evening of the 9th, in -so shattered a condition that she could hardly be kept above water, -and the poor fellows who were in her were almost frozen. - -On the 10th, about noon, I passed the Grand Saline or Newsewketonga -[Cimarron river[V-12]], which is of a reddish color, though its water -is very clear. About two days' march up this river, you find the -prairie grass on the S. W. side incrusted with salt, and on the N. E. -bank, fresh-water springs, and lakes abounding with fish. This salt -the Arkansaw Osages obtain by scraping it off the prairie with a -turkey's wing into a wooden trencher. The river does not derive its -name from its saline properties, but from the quantities that may -always be found on its banks, and is at all seasons of the year -potable. - -On the 20th, in the afternoon, we passed another Saline [river[V-13]] -with water equally as red as that of the Newsewketonga, and more -strongly impregnated with salt. - -After encountering every hardship to which a voyage is subject in -small canoes at so inclement a season of the year, I arrived on the -23d inst., in a storm of hail and snow, at the wintering-camp of -Cashesegra or Big Track, [or Big Foot] chief of the Osages who reside -on Verdigrise river. - -On the following day I gave him your talk and received his reply, -which it is unnecessary to recount fully, as it was merely a -description of his poverty and miserable situation. He however said -that he had been informed the United States intended to erect -factories on the Osage river, and that he was anxious to have one near -to his own village; and for that purpose he was willing to give the -United States the tract of country lying between the Verdigrise and -Grand [Neosho] rivers. A factory, with a garrison of troops stationed -there, would answer the double purpose of keeping in order those -Indians, who are the most desperate and profligate part of the whole -nation, more fully impressing them with an idea of our consequence, -and gaining more firmly their friendship. It also would tend to -preserve harmony among the Chactaws, Creeks, Cherokees, and Osages of -the three different villages, who are in a constant state of warfare; -further, it would prevent the Osages making excursions into the -country of the poor and peaceably disposed Caddoes, and might have -some effect in confining the Spaniards to their own territorial -limits. - -On the 27th I passed the mouths of the Verdigrise and Grand -[Neosho[V-14]] rivers, the former being about 100 and the latter 130 -yards wide; those streams enter within a quarter of a mile of each -other. Below the mouth of Grand river commence the rapids, which -continue for several hundred miles down the Arkansaw. - -About 58 or 60 miles up the Verdigrise is situate the Osage -village.[V-15] This band, some four or five years since, were led by -the chief Cashesegra [Big Foot] to the waters of the Arkansaw, at the -request of Pierre Chouteau, for the purpose of securing their trade, -the exclusive trade of the Osage river having at that time been -purchased from the Spanish governor by Manuel Lisa of St. Louis. But -though Cashesegra be the nominal leader, Clermont, or the Builder of -Towns, is the greatest warrior and most influential man, now more -firmly attached to the interests of the Americans than any other chief -of the nation. He is the lawful sovereign of the Grand Osages; but -his hereditary right was usurped by Pahuska or White Hair [Cheveux -Blancs], while Clermont was yet an infant. White Hair, in fact, is a -chief of Chouteau's creating, as well as Cashesegra; and neither has -the power or disposition to restrain their young men from the -perpetration of an improper act, fearing lest they should render -themselves unpopular. - -On the 29th I passed a fall [Webber's] of near seven feet -perpendicular. At evening I was visited by a scout from an Osage war -party, and received from them a man by the name of M'Farlane, who had -been trapping up the Pottoe [Poteau]. We passed about noon this day -the mouths of the river des Illinois,[V-16] which enters on the N. E. -side, and of the Canadian[V-17] river, which puts in from the S. W. -The latter river is the main branch of the Arkansaw, and is equally -large. - -On the 31st I passed the mouth of the Pottoe,[V-18] a deep though -narrow stream which puts in on the S. W., and also the river au -Millieu [Milieu[V-19]], that enters from the N. E. - -On the evening of the 6th of January I reached the plantation of a Mr. -Labomme, and was more inhospitably treated than by the savages -themselves. - -On the 8th I passed the two upper Arkansaw or Quapaw[V-20] villages, -and on the 9th, after passing the lower Quapaw town, and a settlement -of Chactaws, arrived at the post of Arkansaw.[V-21] - -The surface of the country between the Osage towns and the Pawnee -village is generally broken and naked; the soil sterile, and abounding -with flint and lime stones. As you approach the waters of the Kanses, -it becomes hilly and sandy. The same may be said of the country -between the Pawnee village and the Arkansaw; but after passing the -ridge which separates the waters of the Kanses and Arkansaw, the -surface becomes more regular and less stony. - -Below the Verdigrise the shores of the Arkansaw are generally lined -with cane [_Arundinaria macrosperma_], and consequently rich bottoms. -I was informed by the Indians that the country to the northwest of the -Osage village abounds with valuable lead mines, but I could make no -discovery of any body of mineral. - -The survey from the Arkansaw post to the Mississippi I fear is not -correct, as I was so ill when I descended that part of the river as to -be confined to my blanket. - -The chart which accompanies this report, of the course of the -Arkansaw, I hope will prove satisfactory, not only to yourself, but -the president. - -I have the honor to subscribe myself, - Your faithful and obliged, - Humble and obedient servant, - [Signed] JAMES B. WILKINSON, - 1st Lieut. 2d U. S. Regt. of Infantry. - - His Excellency - GENERAL JAMES WILKINSON, - Commander-in-Chief of the U. S. Army. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[V-1] The following Report was written by Lieutenant Wilkinson at a -time when it was expected I had been cut off by the savages. It -consequently alluded to transactions relative to the Expedition -previous to our separation, which I have since corrected. But the -adventures of his party, after our separation, are given in his own -words.--Z. M. P. - -The above explanatory note by Pike stood alone on p. 19 of the App. to -Pt. 2 of the orig. ed. Wilkinson's Report, of which Chapter V. now -consists, formed Doc. No. 2 of that Appendix, running pp. 20-32. It -rehearses the movements of Pike's party to Oct. 28th, 1806, when the -two officers separated at Great Bend, and Wilkinson started down the -Arkansaw. It thus serves to some extent to check Pike's narrative, but -is chiefly notable in this respect for some discrepancies which I have -been unable to adjust. Lieutenant Wilkinson's health was not good -during his descent of the Arkansaw, and he endured much hardship; to -which causes is doubtless due in part the lack of anything very -notable in his Report. James Biddle Wilkinson was the son of General -James Wilkinson of Maryland. He entered the army as a second -lieutenant of the 4th Infantry, Feb. 16th, 1801; was transferred to -the 2d Infantry, Apr. 1st, 1802; became first lieutenant Sept. 30th, -1803, and captain Oct. 8th, 1808, and died Sept. 7th, 1813. - -[V-2] The toise is an old French measure of length equal to six French -feet or 1.949 meter, and therefore to about 6.4 English feet. - -[V-3] The party reached and crossed the Neosho Sept. 9th, and struck -the Smoky Hill fork of the Kansas r. on the morning of the 16th: see -those dates in Pike's itinerary, and notes there. - -[V-4] There are material discrepancies between Wilkinson's and Pike's -accounts of the 11th, 12th, 13th, and 14th, not easy to reconcile, -even supposing the two officers were separated a part of the time. -Pike comes first to what he calls "Little Saline" r., and then to -Great Saline on the 11th; Smoky Hill r., 12th; 7 m. beyond it to head -of a branch of it, 13th; over the divide, 14th, to Cow cr.; and is -lost on Walnut cr., 15th. His map puts a camp-mark on Little Saline, -date uncertain; one on Great Saline, 11th; one on Smoky Hill r., 12th; -and none for 13th, 14th, or 15th. Wilkinson comes first to Grand -Saline, 11th; "Second or Small Saline," 12th; Smoky Hill, 13th; over -divide and on to a branch of the Arkansaw, also on the 13th; reaches -Arkansaw 14th, about midnight. We have here a day miscounted; reverse -sequence of the two Saline rivers; and several camp-marks misplaced or -missing. All this adds to the trouble we found in trying to follow -Pike's itinerary, and I do not see how the difficulty can be adjusted. -What seems certain is: 1. Great Saline r. reached or crossed on the -11th; Smoky Hill r. reached or crossed on the 12th; divide crossed and -camp on Cow cr., 13th, 14th; Wilkinson on the Arkansaw at midnight of -the 15th, when Pike and Robinson were lost on Walnut cr. - -[V-5] Again a discrepancy from Pike. According to his diary he left -the party at 5 p. m., 15th, with Dr. Robinson; was lost, 16th and -17th; found and brought to Wilkinson's camp on the Arkansaw, 18th; so -Wilkinson could have remained but two days in suspense, which was -relieved on the third day. As Pike himself informs us that he -"corrected" Wilkinson's Report for the time they were together, yet -evidently failed to make it fit his own, we may be excused if we do -not succeed in the attempt. On some points I suspect Wilkinson came -nearest the facts. He did not lose his notes and supplement from -memory, as Pike was forced to do; he was not hunting for the Spanish -trail, nor for buffalo; and he did not get bewildered on Walnut cr. - -[V-6] Both accounts fortunately agree on this notable date--the day on -which Pike started up the Arkansaw and Wilkinson down the same river. -The distance made by the latter on the 28th sets him about the mouth -of Antelope cr., a small run that makes in on the right or south a -mile above the mouth of Walnut cr. Here he remained on the 29th and -30th. There is obviously no possibility of following him closely -through his benumbed voyage; we can only check his course at the most -notable points. - -[V-7 and *] Wilkinson's, "bold running stream" and his "large creek" -are probably identifiable by the above data; but in my ignorance of -these details I can only presume, without knowing, that he means Cow -cr. and the Little Arkansaw, these being the two principal tributaries -of the Arkansaw in Kansas below Great Bend. Cow cr. is the same stream -whose headwaters Pike and Wilkinson came upon before they reached -Great Bend: see note 10, p. 424; but it falls in much lower, at -Hutchinson, Reno Co., Kas. The Little Arkansaw is that river at whose -mouth is Wichita, seat of Sedgwick Co., Kas. Both these streams course -very obliquely to the Arkansaw, from the N. W., and fall in on the -left bank. - -[V-9] "Negracka" is here an error; Wilkinson means the Ninnescah, -Nenescah, or Nenesquaw r., which falls in from the W. on the right -hand; town of Whitman, Sumner Co., Kas., at its mouth. This is the -only instance I have ever known of the misapplication of the name -Negracka, which belongs absolutely to, and was long the current name -of, the Salt fork of the Arkansaw: see next note. Thus, we read in -Morse's Gazetteer, 1821, p. 499: "Negracka River ... falls into the -Arkansaw from the N. W. It is 100 yards wide." The Nenescah is a -smaller stream than this. It is lettered "Ne-ne-sesh, or Good Riv." on -a map of the Indian Terr., etc., Engineer Bureau, War Dept., Oct., -1866. Between his Negracka or the Nenescah r., and his Neskalonska or -the Salt fork of the Arkansaw, Wilkinson passes the following streams: -1. Slate cr., from the N. W., traversing Sumner Co. obliquely; 2. -Walnut cr. (formerly Whitewater r.), from the N., with an average -course nearly due S., through Butler and Cowley cos., Kas., to fall in -at Arkansaw City; 3. Grouse cr., from the N. E., in Cowley Co., its -mouth nearly on the boundary between Kansas and Oklahoma; 4. Chilockey -or Chilocco cr., over the Oklahoma line, school reservation there; 5. -Deer cr., from the W., very small; 6. Beaver cr., from the N. E., -whose mouth is at the Kaw or Kansas Agency; 7. South Coon cr., from -the N., but falling in on the right, very small; 8. Turkey cr., from -the N., but mouth on the right, between Cross and Ponca stations of -the Arkansaw branch of the A., T., and S. F. R. R. - -[V-10] "Neskalonska" is a name I have failed to find elsewhere, but -fortunately there is no question of the river to which Wilkinson -applies it. This is Salt fork, the third largest branch of the -Arkansaw from the W.--the Cimarron being second, and the Canadian -first in size. Wilkinson's "Neskalonska" and his "Grand Saline or -Newsewtonga" are respectively Salt fork and Cimarron r. of present -nomenclature. Notwithstanding their great size and importance, and the -fact that they fall into the Arkansaw about a degree of latitude and -of longitude apart, they have been completely confused by geographers, -on whose maps almost every name of each has been misapplied to the -other. Salt fork is the upper and smaller one of the two, which falls -in through the Ponca Reservation, at or near Ponca P. O. and Ponca -Agency, in Oklahoma. Cimarron r. is the lower and larger one of the -two, which falls in through the Indian Territory at a point on the -boundary of Oklahoma. Salt fork has been called: Salt fork; Salt r.; -Salt cr.; Saline fork; Saline r.; Saline cr.; Red fork; Red r.; Little -Arkansaw r. (duplicating a name: see note 8, p. 548); Nescutango r.; -Negracka r. (its usual name for many years); Semerone, Cimarone, -Cimmaron, Cimarron r.--the last four variants of the same word, and -like Nescutango, properly belonging only to the next, viz.: Cimarron -r. This has been called: Red fork; Saline r.; Grand Saline r.; -Jefferson r.; Nesuketong, Nesuketonga, Nesuhetonga, Nescutanga, -Newsewketonga r.; Cimmaron, Cimarron r. On analyzing the comparative -applicability of these names, I find that "Salt" or "Saline" belongs -most properly to the upper and smaller stream, for which we now use -it, and when applied to the lower is usually qualified as Grand -Saline; that "Red" is misapplied to both indifferently; that "Little -Arkansas" is only applied to the upper, and "Jefferson" only to the -lower stream; that "Negracka" is absolutely the name of the upper one -alone; that "Nesuketonga" and its variants are almost entirely -confined to the lower one; and finally that "Cimarron" in its -variations is equally common to both, though in present usage it is -absolutely restricted to the lower one. - -These data rest upon the examination of a large lot of old maps with -special reference to the points involved, with the assistance of Mr. -Robert F. Thompson of the Indian Bureau at Washington. These maps show -a curious reversal in the _size_ of the two rivers, the earlier and -poorer ones making the upper stream the larger of the two, and -conversely. Furthermore, the tendency has always been to call the -_larger_ one "Cimarron" and "Red," no matter which its position. Aside -from this, the most sharply contrasted pairs of names are "Salt" and -"Negracka" for the upper stream, and "Red" and "Nesuketonga" for the -lower one. Thus, to be more specific: 1. John Melish's map of the U. -S., engr. by J. Vallance and H. S. Tanner, pub. Philada., 1820, has -Negracka, upper, larger; Jefferson, lower, smaller. 2. H. S. Tanner's -map of N. Amer., in the New American Atlas, pub. Philada., 1823, map -dated 1822, has Negracka or Red r., upper, larger; and Nesuhetonga or -Gr. Saline, lower, smaller. 3. The American Atlas, pub. Philada., H. -C. Carey and I. Lea, 1823, has a map of the U. S., with Negracka or -Red Fork, upper, larger, and Grand Saline, lower, smaller; also, a map -of the Arkansaw, etc., drawn by Major S. H. Long, with Negracka or Red -Fork, upper, larger; and Nesuketonga or Grand Saline, lower, smaller; -also, a map of Mexico, etc., based on Humboldt, etc., by J. Finlayson, -with these very same names. 4. A. Finlay's map of North America, pub. -Philada., 1826, has upper larger stream Negracka or Semerone R.; lower -one, very small, Grand Saline. 5. A map of Mexico in Anthony Finlay's -Atlas, pub. Philada., 1830, has Negracka, upper and larger; the lower -smaller one unnamed. 6. A map of North America in Tanner's Atlas, pub. -Philada., Carey and Hart, 1843, has Negracka, upper and larger; Gr. -Saline, lower and smaller; the map of Mexico and Guatemala, in this -atlas, represents the two as Red Br. and Saline. 7. On Josiah Gregg's -map of the Indian Territory, etc., in Morse's N. A. Atlas, pub. N. Y., -Harper and Brothers, 1844, also accompanying Gregg's Commerce of the -Prairies, the two rivers are represented of about the same size, the -upper one being lettered Cimarron R. and Salt Fork; the lower, Red -Fork of the Arkansas R. This is a notably good map for its date, and -in the matter now under examination may be taken as the turning-point -to a better understanding of the facts in the case. 8. On a map of -Texas, etc., pub. Philada., S. Augustus Mitchell, 1846, the upper and -still larger river appears as Cimarone or Salt Fork; the lower, as Red -Fork. 9. On a map of Mexico issued by H. S. Tanner, 3d ed., 1846, the -upper, larger stream is given as Semerone, Negracka, or Red River; the -lower, as Saline. 10. On a map of the U. S. in Harper's Statistical -Gazetteer of the World, by J. Calvin Smith, pub. N. Y., Harper and -Brothers, 1855, the upper stream is called Cimarron or Salt Fork; the -lower, Red Fork of Arkansas. 11. Emory's beautiful map of the Western -U. S., pub. 1857-58, has Salt Fork for the upper and much smaller -stream, and Red Fork of the Arkansas for the other. 12. A map of -Kansas, etc., in Mitchell's Atlas of 1861, represents the upper stream -as Cimarron River, the lower as Red Fork of the Arkansas. 13. The map -of N. A. in Johnston's Family Atlas, pub. N. Y., Johnston and Ward, -1864, shows the two in a peculiar manner, and calls the upper one -Semerone, the lower one Nesuketong. 14. The Office of Indian Affairs -has on file a very fine map of the Indian Territory, drawn by Ado -Hunnius from the reconnoissance of Lieutenant J. C. Woodruff in 1852, -and from a War Dept. map of 1866, on which the upper and now _smaller_ -river appears as Salt Creek or Nescutanga, or Salt Fork of the -Arkansas, and the much larger lower one as Cimarron River or Red Fork -of the Arkansas. 15. The War Dept. map of the Indian Territory, -Engineer Bureau, Oct., 1866, letters for the smaller upper stream -Nescutango R. and Little Arkansas R.; for the other, Cimarron River -and Red Fork of Arkansas River. 16. A manuscript map by John C. McCoy, -on file in the Office of Indian Affairs, has Red Fork for the upper, -and Ne se ke tonga for the lower one. 17. On a cabinet map of the U. -S., pub. Chicago, Rufus Blanchard, 1868, the upper one is called -Little Arkansas River, the lower one being styled Red Fork of Arkansas -River. 18. A map of the U. S. in Mitchell's Atlas of 1874 shows the -upper and larger stream as Cimmaron or Salt Fork, and the smaller -lower one as Red Fork; the map of Texas in the same atlas shows only -the latter, given as Red Fork of Arkansas. 19. The General Land Office -map of the Indian Territory, 1879, letters for the upper river Salt -Fork of Arkansas R., and for the other Red Fork of the Arkansas or -Cimarron River; the same Office's map of Oklahoma, 1894, has Salt Fork -of Arkansas River for the one, and Cimarron River for the other. - -The consensus of the above, aside from the eccentricities and errors -involved, is reducible to Salt fork or Negracka r. for the upper one, -and Red fork, Nesuketonga, or Cimarron r. for the other one, of these -two important streams. One of the curiosities in the matter is the -constancy of the form of the word Negracka, as well as its restriction -to a single river. - -[V-11] The Verdigris, Vermilion, or Wasetihoge r. has been already -noticed, when Pike's party reached its headwaters in Kansas: see note -58, p. 400. The present nomenclature of its principal branches is: 1. -Hominy cr., in the Osage and Cherokee countries of the Indian -Territory, with a main fork, Bird cr., site of the Osage Agency; 2. -Caney r., or the Little Verdigris, falling in by the Blue Mounds in -the Cherokee country, and formed of two main forks known as Big and -Little Caney creeks, both of which head in Kansas; 3. Elk r., heading -in the Kansan county of that name, and falling in above Independence, -in Montgomery Co., Kas.; 4. Fall r., one of the terminal forks of the -Verdigris, and on which is Fredonia, Wilson Co. - -[V-12] See note 10 for synonymy. The Cimarron is a very large river, -which drains from the eastern slopes of the great mountains in New -Mexico and runs thence through southwestern portions of Kansas, loops -into Oklahoma Territory from Meade Co., Kas., loops back into Kansas -in Clarke Co., and thence through the S. W. corner of Comanche Co. -into Oklahoma again, traverses this Territory, and joins the Arkansaw -between the Osage and Creek countries, at a certain point on the line -between Oklahoma and the Indian Territory. - -In passing from Salt fork to the Cimarron, we have first, Red or Red -Rock cr., a sizable stream from the W. or right; places called Redrock -and Otoe on it; second, Buck cr., left, from the N., once known as -Suicide cr.; third, Gray Horse cr., small, left, from the N. E.; -fourth, Black Bear cr., large, from the W., on the right. The Pawnee -Agency is on this stream, which some maps wrongly run into the -Cimarron instead of the Arkansaw. - -[V-13] This is not easily determined, as there are several small -streams of similar character between the Cimarron and the Verdigris, -among them those called Polecat, Snake, Cane, and Caney (or Pocan) -creeks. - -[V-14] For these two rivers, see back, notes 53, 55, pp. 397, 398, and -following to p. 402; also, note 11, p. 555. - -[V-15] This was the so-called "Arkansaw band" of Osages, the -circumstances of whose secession from the Osage village on the Little -Osage r. are mentioned by Pike elsewhere, as well as by Wilkinson in -the present instance. The faction seems to have been fomented by -Chouteau through jealousy of Lisa's exclusive right to trade on the -Osage r. The affair must have been notorious at the time, as various -authors speak of the settlement of this Osage band on the Verdigris -or, as it was also called, Vermilion r. Among them are Lewis and -Clark: see ed. 1893, p. 12. - -[V-16] This Illinois r., still so called, heads in Washington and -Benton cos., Ark., crosses the W. border of the State N. of 36 deg., and -runs through the Cherokee country in the Indian Territory, to fall -into the Arkansaw a short distance above the mouth of the Canadian. -Between the Illinois and Canadian rivers, on the E. side of the -Arkansaw, opposite the mouth of Elk cr., is a place called Webber's -Falls, with reference to the falls of which Wilkinson speaks. - -[V-17] The main fork of the Arkansaw, and scarcely a lesser stream. -This is one of the six or seven large rivers which have shared the -name "Red" or its equivalent, though less frequently than some of the -others. This is because the Mexicans called it Rio Colorado at its -headwaters, which they knew very well; and because, down to 1820, -these were supposed to be those of the true "Red river of -Natchitoches," a branch of the Mississippi. The discovery that this -Rio Colorado or Red r. was the source of the Canadian was made by -Major Long, who followed it down, thinking he was on the Red r. of -Natchitoches, and was not undeceived till he found its confluence with -the Arkansaw. This is noted in 1844 by Gregg, and in 1855 by Warren; -it was the third attempt made by the United States Government to -discover the sources of the true Red r., Captain Sparks having been -first, in 1806, and Pike second. "Canadian," as applied to the main -fork of the Arkansaw, has no more to do with the Dominion of Canada in -history or politics than it has in geography, and many have wondered -how this river came to be called the Canadian. The word is from the -Spanish Rio Canada, or Rio Canadiano, through such a form as Rio -Canadian, whence directly "Canadian" r., meaning "Canyon" r., and -referring to the way in which the stream is boxed up or shut in by -precipitous walls near its headwaters. These drain from E. slopes of -the Raton and other great mountains in New Mexico E. of Taos and Santa -Fe, by such streams as the Vermijo (Bermejo), Little Cimarron, Pounel -or Poni, Rayado, and Ocate, which join above the canada, and the Moro, -which falls in further down. Leaving New Mexico the great river -courses eastward through Texas, enters Oklahoma at long. 100 deg. W. (near -lat. 36 deg. N., vicinity of Antelope hills), traverses this territory to -about long. 98 deg. W., separates it from the Indian Territory to beyond -long. 97 deg. W., and runs in the latter to join the Arkansaw near long. -95 deg. W., in the vicinity of Webber's falls, at a point on the boundary -between the Cherokee and Chocktaw countries, about 40 m. E. of the -Arkansaw State line. Its principal branch is the North fork, which as -far as it goes is a parallel stream, skirting the Canadian for -hundreds of miles at no great distance northward of the main stream. - -[V-18] Poteau or Potteau r. marks a notable point in this barren -itinerary, as it falls in on the boundary between the Indian Territory -and Arkansas, immediately above the important and well-known Fort -Smith. This is situated on the right bank of the Arkansaw, in -Sebastian Co., which the river divides from Crawford Co. Poteau is F. -for post, and the name may refer to some early landmark of that sort: -see note 33, p. 378. Small tributaries of the Arkansaw between the -Canadian and Poteau rivers are Vine cr., left; Sans Bois and Cache -creeks, right; Sallison and Skin creeks, left--in the order here -named. - -[V-19] Wilkinson's "river au Millieu" is apparently that now called -Lee or Lee's cr., which makes in between Fort Smith and Van Buren, -seat of Crawford Co. It courses mostly in Arkansaw, but loops into and -out of the Indian Territory. Four of its branches are called Cove, -Brushy, Webber, and Garrison. The F. phrase Riviere au Milieu, -equivalent to "Middle" or "Half-way" r., does not seem to have been -much used anywhere in the U. S., though it is a still current -voyageurs' designation of several different streams in British -America. - -[V-20] For the Quapaw or Kwapa Indians, see L. and C., ed. 1893, pp. -12 and 98, notes. Together with the Kansas, Osages, Omahas, and -Poncas, they constitute a division of the Siouan stock called -Dhegiha--a word equivalent to "autochthon." Dr. Sibley gives the names -of the three Kwapa villages as Tawanima, Oufotu, and Ocapa: London ed. -1807, p. 53. Quapaw, Kwapa, Ocapa, Oguoppa, Quappa, Kappa, Ukaqpa, -etc., are all forms of their name of themselves, meaning "those who -went down river." Our knowledge of the village is traced back to -Joliet and Marquette, July, 1673; the name Akansa, adopted in some -form by the French, is what the Kwapas were called by the Illinois -Indians, and the origin of our Arkansas or Arkansaw. The form Acanza -is found on Vaugondy's map, 1783. About 230 Kwapas still live in -Oklahoma and the Indian Territory. - -[V-21] Arkansas Post perpetuates the name of the oldest establishment -of whites in the lower Mississippi valley. The present village is on -the N. bank of the Arkansaw r., in the county and State of Arkansas, -73 m. S. E. of Little Rock, the capital. Though never a locality of -much importance, its place in history is secure and permanent. Early -in the year 1685, Henri de Tonti, the famous trusty lieutenant of La -Salle, was reinstated in command of Fort St. Louis of the Illinois, -with titles of captain and governor, by order of the French king Louis -XIV. Tonti learned that La Salle was in trouble somewhere in New Spain -(Texas), and organized an expedition for his relief. On Feb. 16th, -1686, he left Fort St. Louis, with 30 Frenchmen and 5 Indians, -descended the Illinois and Miss. rivers to the Gulf, and scoured the -coast for miles, but saw no sign of his great chief. He wrote a letter -for La Salle, which he committed to the care of a chief of the -Quinipissas for delivery, should opportunity offer, and retraced his -way up the Miss. r. to the mouth of the Arkansaw, which latter river -he ascended to the village of the Arkensa Indians. There, on lands -which La Salle had already granted him, he stationed six of his men, -who volunteered to remain in hopes of hearing from the distant -commander. This was the origin of the Poste aux Arkansas. La Salle was -murdered by the traitor Duhaut, one of several ruffians among his own -men who conspired to his foul assassination, some say on one of the -tributaries of the Brazos, at a spot which has been supposed to be -perhaps 40-50 m. N. of present town of Washington, Tex.; the date is -Mar. 19th or 20th, 1687. Seven of the survivors of La Salle's -ill-starred colony at Fort St. Louis of Texas, reached Arkansas Post -after a journey computed at the time to have been 250 leagues, in the -summer of 1687, and found Couture and De Launay, two of the six whom -Tonti had stationed there the year before. (See Wallace, Hist. Ill. -and La., etc., 1893.) This Tonti (or Tonty), b. about 1650, died at -Mobile, 1704, was the son of Lorenzo Tonti, who devised the Tontine -scheme or policy of life insurance. Arkansas Post was the scene of -Laclede's death, June 20th, 1778. The place was taken by the Unionists -from the Confederates, Jan. 11th, 1863. - - - - -CHAPTER VI. - -CORRESPONDENCE. - - -_Art. 1. Letter, Wilkinson's Instructions to Pike._[VI-1] - - ST. LOUIS, June 24th, 1806. - -SIR: You are to proceed without delay to the cantonment on the -Missouri [at Belle Fontaine], where you are to embark the late Osage -captives and the deputation recently returned from Washington, with -their presents and baggage, and are to transport the whole up the -Missouri and Osage rivers to the town of the Grand Osage. - -The safe delivery of this charge at the point of destination -constitutes the primary object of your expedition; therefore you are -to move with such caution as may prevent surprise from any hostile -band, and are to repel with your utmost force any outrage which may be -attempted. - -Having safely deposited your passengers and their property, you are to -turn your attention to the accomplishment of a permanent peace between -the Kanses and Osage nations; for which purpose you must effect a -meeting between the head chiefs of those nations, and are to employ -such arguments, deduced from their own obvious interests, as well as -the inclinations, desires, and commands of the president of the -United States, as may facilitate your purpose and accomplish the end. - -A third object of considerable magnitude will then claim your -consideration. It is to effect an interview and establish a good -understanding with the Yanctons, Tetaus, or Camanches. - -For this purpose you must interest White Hair, of the Grand Osage, -with whom and a suitable deputation you will visit the Panis republic, -where you may find interpreters, and inform yourself of the most -feasible plan by which to bring the Camanches to a conference. Should -you succeed in this attempt--and no pains must be spared to effect -it--you will endeavor to make peace between that distant powerful -nation and the nations which inhabit the country between us and them, -particularly the Osage; finally, you will endeavor to induce eight or -ten of their distinguished chiefs to make a visit to the seat of -government next September, and you may attach to this deputation four -or five Panis and the same number of Kanses chiefs. - -As your interview with the Camanches will probably lead you to the -head branches of the Arkansaw and Red rivers, you may find yourself -approximated to the settlements of New Mexico. There it will be -necessary you should move with great circumspection, to keep clear of -any hunting or reconnoitering parties from that province, and to -prevent alarm or offense; because the affairs of Spain and the United -States appear to be on the point of amicable adjustment, and moreover -it is the desire of the president to cultivate the friendship and -harmonious intercourse of all the nations of the earth, particularly -our near neighbors the Spaniards.[VI-2] - -In the course of your tour, you are to remark particularly upon the -geographical structure, the natural history, and population of the -country through which you may pass, taking particular care to collect -and preserve specimens of everything curious in the mineral or -botanical worlds, which can be preserved and are portable. Let your -courses be regulated by your compass, and your distances by your -watch, to be noted in a field-book; and I would advise you, when -circumstances permit, to protract and lay down in a separate book the -march of the day at every evening's halt. - -The instruments which I have furnished you will enable you to -ascertain the variation of the magnetic needle and the latitude with -exactitude; and at every remarkable point I wish you to employ your -telescope in observing the eclipses of Jupiter's satellites, having -previously regulated and adjusted your watch by your quadrant, taking -care to note with great nicety the periods of immersions and emersions -of the eclipsed satellites. These observations may enable us, after -your return, by application to the appropriate tables, which I cannot -now furnish you, to ascertain the longitude. - -It is an object of much interest with the executive to ascertain the -direction, extent, and navigation of the Arkansaw and Red rivers; as -far, therefore, as may be compatible with these instructions and -practicable to the means you may command, I wish you to carry your -views to those subjects; and should circumstances conspire to favor -the enterprise, that you may detach a party with a few Osage to -descend the Arkansaw under the orders of Lieutenant Wilkinson, or -Sergeant Ballinger, properly instructed and equipped to take the -courses and distances, to remark on the soil, timber, etc., and to -note the tributary streams. This party will, after reaching our post -on the Arkansaw, descend to Fort Adams and there await further orders; -and you yourself may descend the Red river, accompanied by a party of -the most respectable Camanches, to the post of Nachitoches, and there -receive further orders. - -To disburse your necessary expenses and to aid your negotiations, you -are herewith furnished six hundred dollars' worth of goods, for the -appropriation of which you are to render a strict account, vouched by -documents to be attested by one of your party. - -Wishing you a safe and successful expedition, - I am, Sir, - With much respect and esteem, - Your obedient servant, - [Signed] JAMES WILKINSON. - - LIEUTENANT Z. M. PIKE. - - -_Art. 2. Letter, Wilkinson's Additional Instructions to Pike._ - - CANTONMENT [BELLE FONTAINE], MISSOURI, - July 12th, 1806. - -SIR: - -The health of the Osages being now generally restored, and all hopes -of the speedy recovery of their prisoners from the hands of the -Potowatomies being at an end, they have become desirous to commence -their journey for their villages; you are therefore to proceed -to-morrow. - -In addition to the instructions given you on the 24th ultimo, I must -request you to have the talks under cover delivered to White Hair and -Grand Peste, the chief of the Osage band which is settled on the -waters of the Arkansaw, together with the belts which accompany them. -You will also receive herewith a small belt for the Panis and a large -one for the Tetaus or Camanches. - -Should you find it necessary, you are to give orders to Maugraine, the -resident interpreter at the Grand Osage, to attend you. - -I beg you to take measures for the security and safe return of your -boats from the Grand Osage to this place. - -Dr. Robinson will accompany you as a volunteer. He will be furnished -medicines, and for the accommodations which you give him he is bound -to attend your sick. - -Should you discover any unlicensed traders in your route, or any -person from this territory, or from the United States, without a -proper license or passport, you are to arrest such person or persons -and dispose of their property as the law directs. - -My confidence in your caution and discretion has prevented my urging -you to be vigilant in guarding against the strategy and treachery of -the Indians; holding yourself above alarm or surprise, the composition -of your party, though it be small, will secure to you the respect of a -host of untutored savages. - -You are to communicate, from the Grand Osage and from every other -practicable point, directly to the secretary of war, transmitting your -letters to this place under cover, to the commanding officer, or by -any more convenient route. - -I wish you health and a successful and honorable enterprise, and am, - - Yours with friendship, - [Signed] JAMES WILKINSON. - - LIEUTENANT Z. M. PIKE. - - -_Art. 3.[VI-3] Letter, Pike to Wilkinson. (Orig. No. 3, pp. 32, 33.)- - - ST. CHARLES, July 17th, 1806. - -DEAR SIR: - -We arrived here last evening all well, except some of the soldiers -from fatigue, as in the present state of the water we are obliged to -row altogether. - -We were disappointed in obtaining any information from St. Louis, or -baggage for our Panis. I do not know how it will be digested by them. -We likewise were disappointed in receiving a line from you, as we had -here expected, and in the hopes of which I shall yet detain until -twelve o'clock and then take my departure. Our Osage conduct -themselves pretty well, and are very obedient to orders; at first they -had an idea a little too free relative to other people's property, but -at present stand corrected. - -I understood from you that they were equipped by Mr. Tillier with -everything necessary for their voyage to their towns; consequently, -although they have been applying to me for a variety of articles, none -of which have they been gratified with, but powder and ball, which is -necessary for their own defense. - -The general will pardon this scrawl; and should he send an express -after us, please to let Mrs. Pike know of the opportunity. - - I am, dear Sir, - With high respect, - Your obedient servant, - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE, Lt. - - GENERAL WILKINSON. - - -_Art. 4. Letter, Pike to Wilkinson. (Orig. No. 4, p. 33.)- - - ST. CHARLES, July 19th [_i. e._, 18th], 1806. - In the morning. - -DEAR GENERAL: - -Inclosed you have one of the articles subscribed by Mr. [George] -Henry, mentioned in my note of yesterday.[VI-4] I hope the general may -approve of the contents. - -Lieutenant Wilkinson and Dr. Robinson marched with one soldier this -morning, and the boats have proceeded under the conduct of [Sergeant] -Ballenger; I shall overtake them in an hour or two. - -Numerous reports have been made to the Indians [we have with us], -calculated to impress them with an idea that there is a small army of -their enemies waiting to receive us at the entrance of the Grand -Osage. But I have partly succeeded in scouting the idea from their -minds. - -No news of Chouteau, nor Panis' trunks. - - I am, dear General, - Your obedient servant, - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE, Lt. - - GENERAL WILKINSON. - - -_Art. 5. Letter, Pike to Wilkinson. (Orig. No. 5, pp. 33-35.)- - - VILLAGE DE CHARETTE, July 22d, 1806. - -DEAR GENERAL: - -I have the honor to acknowledge the receipt of your two obliging -favors of the 18th and 19th inst. The particular contents of each -shall be punctually attended to. - -I assure you, Sir, that I am extremely pleased with the idea that -Messrs. [Blank] and [Blank] will meet with their merited reward, and I -on my part am determined to show them that it is not their sinister -movements that can derange the objects of our voyage; the greatest -embarrassment they have yet occasioned me has been by the detention of -the Panis' baggage, who have been much mortified on the occasion. But -I question much if, under similar impressions and circumstances, many -white men would have borne their loss with more philosophy than our -young savages. - -I conceive that I cannot dispose of one of my guns better than to give -it to Frank, whose fusee was left at Chouteau's; also, each of them a -soldier's coat; this is all the remuneration I will pretend to make -them, and I hope it may bring them to a good humor. - -You will probably be surprised at the slow progress we have made, but -are already informed of the cause of our detention at St. Charles. -Since then we have been detained two days on account of the rain; and -although we were able to prevent the water from entering immediately -on the top of the boat where covered, yet the quantity which she made -at both ends occasioned so much dampness under the loading as to -injure both my own corn and that of the Indians, with other small -articles which they had at various times taken from under the loading -and not returned to their proper places; but they appear satisfied -that we have paid all possible attention to prevent injury to their -baggage--as much as, and indeed more than, to our own. - -In consequence of the above, and with a design to write you, I halted -here to-day, which I hope we shall usefully employ in drying our -baggage, cleaning our arms, and putting ourselves in a posture of -defense. Lieutenant Wilkinson has experienced no inconvenience from -his march by land with the Indians; and the event has proved the -necessity of some officer accompanying them, as he informs me. He -found it necessary to purchase some beeves for their consumption on -the route, for which he drew on the superintendent of Indian affairs, -and will write to you more particularly on the subject. They were -absent from the boat four days; and had he not been with them, they -would have supplied themselves by marauding, to the great offense of -our good citizens. - -I am informed that a party of 40 Sacs were at Boon's Lick, above the -Osage river, a few days since; but I by no means conceive they were on -the route to intercept us, as the people pretend at this place. - -Three days since one of my men [Kennerman] complained of -indisposition, and went on shore to march; he has never joined the -party, and from various reasons I conceive has deserted. I have -therefore inclosed an advertisement which, if the general will please -to cause to be posted at St. Louis, Kaskaskias, and Lusk's Ferry on -the Ohio, I conceive he will be caught. I have written to Captain -Daniel Bissell[VI-5] on the occasion; but hope the general will -enforce my request to that gentleman, as to his [Kennerman's] being -brought to trial. I was much mortified at the event, not only on -account of the loss of the man, but that my peculiar situation -prevented me from pursuing him and making him an example. - -With respect to the Tetaus, the general may rest assured, I shall use -every precaution previous to trusting them; but as to the mode of -conduct to be pursued towards the Spaniards, I feel more at a loss, -as my instructions lead me into the country of the Tetaus, part of -which is no doubt claimed by Spain, although the boundaries between -Louisiana and New Mexico, have never yet been defined, in consequence -of which, should I encounter a party from the villages near Santa Fe, -I have thought it would be good policy to give them to understand, -that we were about to join our troops near Natchitoches, but had been -uncertain about the head waters of the rivers over which we passed; -but, that now, if the commandant approved of it, we would pay him a -visit of politeness, either by deputation, or the whole party, but if -he refused, signify our intention of pursuing our direct route to the -post below; but if not I flatter myself secure us an unmolested -retreat to Natchitoches. But if the Spanish jealousy, and the -instigation of domestic traitors should induce them to make us -prisoners of war, (in time of peace) I trust to the magnanimity of our -country for our liberation and a due reward to their opposers, for the -insult and indignity offered their national honor. However, unless -they give us ample assurances of just and honorable treatment, -according to the custom of nations in like cases, I would resist, even -if the inequality was as great as at the affair of Bender [town in -Russia], or the streights of Thermopylae.[VI-6] - -Will you pardon the foregoing as the enthusiasm of a youthful mind, -yet not altogether unimpressed by the dictates of prudence? - -I hope the general will be persuaded that with his son I shall act as -I would to a brother, endeavoring in all cases to promote his honor -and prosperity. - -In consequence of indisposition, etc., Lieut. Wilkinson will steer one -boat and I the other. - - I am, dear General, - Your sincere friend, - And obedient humble servant, - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE. - - GENERAL J. WILKINSON. - - -_Art. 6. Letter, Pike to Wilkinson. (Orig. No. 6, p. 36.)- - - VILLAGE DE CHARETTE, Evening of July 22d, 1806. - -DEAR SIR: - -Finding no prospect of meeting with a private conveyance of our -letters in time sufficient to find you previous to our setting sail, -which would be entirely too late to secure my deserter and give you -the other information they contain, I have hired the bearer to ride -express to Belle Fontaine, for which I have promised him $8; which, -taking into view his ferriages, etc., cannot be deemed high, and I -hope the general will please to order the military agent to discharge -the same. - -The weather has at length become settled, and we set sail to-morrow -with our boats newly and much better arranged. - - I am, General, with sincere esteem, - And high respect, - Your obedient servant, - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE. - - GENERAL WILKINSON. - - -_Art. 7. Letter, Pike to Wilkinson. (Orig. No. 7, p. 36.)- - - FIVE LEAGUES BELOW THE RIVER OSAGE, July 26th, 1806. - -DEAR GENERAL: - -I halt a moment, in order to say we have arrived thus far all safe, -although our savages complain much of fatigue, etc. - -The bearer had been sent by Mr. Sangonet [Charles Sanguinet, Sr.] to -examine the Osage river, and reports that they could not get their -canoes up the river more than 60 miles. If so, we have a bad prospect -before us; but go we will, if God permits. - -We have been detained several days by the Indians. - - I am, dear General, - Your obedient servant, - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE. - - GEN. JAMES WILKINSON. - - -_Art. 8. Letter, Wilkinson to Pike. (Orig. No. 9, pp. 38-40.)- - - CANTONMENT MISSOURI [at Belle Fontaine], - Aug. 6th, 1806. - -SIR: - -In consequence of the receipt of the inclosed letters, I have thought -proper to send you an express, to enable you to announce to the Osage -the designs of their enemies, that they may take seasonable measures -to circumvent them. You will not fail, in addition to the within -talk, to enhance our paternal regard for this nation by every proper -expression; but are to keep clear of any conflict in which they may be -involved, though you are to avoid the appearance of abandoning them. -If it should be the Potowatomies' intention to carry their threat into -execution, it is probable they will not attempt to make the blow -before the falling of the leaves; and in the mean time the Osages -should establish a chain of light scouts along the coast of the -Missouri, to ascertain with certainty the approach of their enemy. - -It is reduced to a certainty that [Manuel de Lisa] and a society of -which he is the ostensible leader have determined on a project to open -some commercial intercourse with Santa Fe; and as this may lead to a -connection injurious to the United States, and will, I understand, be -attempted without the sanction of law or the permission of the -executive, you must do what you can consistently to defeat the plan. -No good can be derived to the United States from such a project, -because the prosecution of it will depend entirely on the Spaniards, -and they will not permit it, unless to serve their political as well -as their personal interests. I am informed that the ensuing autumn and -winter will be employed in reconnoitering and opening a connection -with the Tetaus, Panis, etc.; that this fall or the next winter, a -grand magazine is to be established at the Osage towns, where these -operations will commence; that [Lisa] is to be the active agent, -having formed a connection with the Tetaus. This will carry forward -their merchandise within three or four days' travel of the Spanish -settlements, where they will deposit it under a guard of 300 Tetaus. -[Lisa] will then go forward with four or five attendants, taking with -him some jewelry and fine goods. With those he will visit the -governor, to whom he will make presents, and implore his pity by a -fine tale of sufferings which have been endured by the change of -government; that they are left here, with goods to be sure, but not a -dollar's worth of bullion, and therefore they have adventured to see -him, for the purpose of praying his leave for the introduction of -their property into the province. If he assents, then the whole of the -goods will be carried forward; if he refuses, then [Lisa] will invite -some of his countrymen to accompany him to his deposit, and having -there exposed to them his merchandise, he will endeavor to open a -forced or clandestine trade; for he observes, the Spaniards will not -dare to attack his camp. Here you have the plan, and you must take all -prudent and lawful means to blow it up. - -In regard to your approximation to the Spanish settlements, should -your route lead you near them, or should you fall in with any of their -parties, your conduct must be marked by such circumspection and -discretion as may prevent alarm or conflict, as you will be held -responsible for consequences. On this subject I refer you to my -orders. We have nothing new respecting the pending negotiations in -Europe; but from Colonel [T. H.] Cushing I understand the Spaniards -below are behaving now with great courtesy. - -By the return of the bearer you may open your correspondence with the -secretary of war [General Dearborn]; but I would caution you against -anticipating a step before you, for fear of deception and -disappointment. To me you may, and must, write fully and freely, not -only giving a minute detail of everything past worthy of note, but -also of your prospects and the conduct of the Indians. If you discover -that any tricks have been played from St. Louis, you will give them to -me with names, and must not fail to give particulars to the secretary -of war, with names, to warn him against improper confidence and -deception. Inclose your dispatch for me to Colonel [T.] Hunt, and it -will follow me by a party which I leave for the purpose. It is -interesting to you to reach Nachitoches in season to be at the seat of -government pending the session of Congress; yet you must not sacrifice -any essential object to this point. Should fortune favor you on your -present excursion, your importance to our country will, I think, make -your future life comfortable. - -To show you how to correct your watch by the quadrant, after it has -been carefully adjusted, preparatory to your observing the eclipses of -the satellites of Jupiter, I send you a very simple plan, which you -will readily understand: a basin of water, in some place protected -from the motion of the air, will give you a fairer artificial horizon -than mercury. I think a tent, with a suitable aperture in the side of -it, would do very well. I have generally unroofed a cabin. - -Miranda has botched his business. He has lost his two schooners -captured, and himself in the Leander returned to Jamaica. The French -have a squadron of four frigates at Porto Rico, and five sail of the -line with Jerome Bonaparte at Martinique. I consider them lost. - -Your children have been indisposed; but Mrs. Pike writes you. She -appears well. My regards to your associates, and may God protect you. - - [Signed] J. WILKINSON. - - LIEUTENANT PIKE. - - -_Art. 9. Letter, Pike to Wilkinson. (Orig. No. 8, p. 37.)- - - PARK ON THE OSAGE RIVER, Aug. 14th, 1806. - -DEAR SIR: - -I send this letter by Baptiste la Tulip [note 36, p. 381], who -informs me he bears letters to Chouteau, informing him that a party of -Little Osages have marched to war against the Kanses, and a party of -Grand Osages left the village expressly to make war on the white -people on the Arkansaw. This latter step White Hair did everything in -his power to prevent, but could not. If true, what are we to think of -our _bons amis_, the Osage? - -But to [Manuel de Lisa] must we ascribe the stroke against the Kanses. -He I am informed sent a message to the Osage nation to raze the Kanses -village entirely. On this subject I intended to have been more -particular, and substantiate it by proofs; but present circumstances -seem to give credit to it. On my arrival at the village, more -particular inquiry shall be made on the subject. - -Yesterday morning Lieutenant Wilkinson, the doctor, interpreter, and -one soldier, marched with the Indians, as they were very apprehensive -of an attack. The people in the canoe heard them crying and saw them -on their march. - -Nothing extraordinary has yet taken place on our route, except our -being favored with a vast quantity of rain, which I hope will enable -us to ascend to the village. - -What face will the Indians receive us with? And to whom are we to -ascribe their hostile disposition, unless to the traitors of St. -Louis? - -Lieutenant Wilkinson is in very good health, and will lament his -having missed this opportunity of assuring his parents of his love and -affection. - - I am, dear General, - Your obedient servant, - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE. - - GEN. JAMES WILKINSON. - - -_Art. 10. Letter, Pike to Wilkinson. (Orig. No. 10, pp. 40-42.)- - - CAMP INDEPENDENCE, NEAR THE OSAGE TOWNS, - Aug. 28th, 1806. - -DEAR GENERAL: - -You will no doubt be much surprised to perceive by the date of this -letter that we are still here; but we have been unavoidably detained -by a variety of circumstances. - -I had the happiness to receive your express the day of my arrival, the -bearer having arrived the night before, and have attended particularly -to its contents. - -On the 19th inst. I delivered your parole to Cheveux Blanche, and on -the 21st held a grand council of both towns, and made the necessary -communications and demands for horses, on the subjects of making -peace with the Kans, accompanying me to the Panis, [and Wilkinson] -down the Arkansaw, and [to ascertain] if there were any brave enough -to accompany me the whole voyage. - -They requested one day to hold council in the villages, previous to -giving an answer. It was three before I received any; their -determination was as follows: From the Grand Osage village, or [that -of] Cheveux Blanche, we are accompanied by his son, and Jean La Fon -[Le Fou], the second chief of the village, with some young men not -known, and he furnishes us four horses. - -The Little Osage sends the brother of the chief, whom I really find to -be the third chief of the village, and some young men unknown, and -furnishes six horses. This is their present promise, but four of the -ten are yet deficient. With these I am merely capable of transporting -our merchandise and ammunition. I shall purchase two more, for which I -find we shall be obliged to pay extravagant prices. - -I sincerely believe that the two chiefs, White Hair and Wind, have -exerted all their influence; but it must be little, when they could -only procure 10 horses out of 700 or 800. - -I have taken an exact survey of the river to this place, noting -particular streams, etc., a protracted copy of which Lieutenant -Wilkinson forwards by this opportunity. Since our arrival here I have -ascertained the variation of the compass to be 6 deg. 30' E.; the -latitude, by means of several observations, 37 deg. 26' 17'' N.; and by an -observation on three different nights I obtained two immersions of -Jupiter's satellites, which will enable us to ascertain every -geographical object in view. - -On the same night I arrived near the village, Mr. Baptist -Duchouquette, alias Larme, with two men, in a small canoe, arrived and -went immediately to the lodge of White Hair, whose conduct, with that -of our resident interpreter, appears in my estimation to have changed -since I sent Lieutenant Wilkinson to demand to see Baptist's passport, -if he had one, and if not, to bring him to camp; which was done. I -detained him two days, until I had made an inquiry of White Hair, who -said he had merely mentioned to him that Labardie was coming with a -quantity of goods. Finding I could substantiate nothing more criminal -against him than his having entered the Indian boundaries without a -passport, and not being able to send him back a prisoner, I detained -him a sufficient time to alarm him, then took his deposition (a copy -of which is inclosed to the attorney-general), and wrote Dr. Brown on -the occasion, requesting him to enter a prosecution against these men -[see note 44, p. 388, Aug. 20th, 1806]. - -Barroney informs me that he has not the least doubt that [Lisa] was at -the bottom of this embassy, although in the name of [Labardie]; as -after the arrival of Baptist, the Indians frequently spoke of [Lisa] -and declared that if he had come he could have obtained horses in -plenty. - -Our interpreter, Maugraine, also, I do believe to be a perfect -creature of [Lisa]; he has almost positively refused to accompany me, -although I read your order on the subject, alleging he was only -engaged to interpret at this place, notwithstanding he went last year -to the Arkansaw for Mr. Chouteau without difficulty. I have not yet -determined on the line of conduct to be pursued with him; but believe, -on his giving a positive refusal, I shall use military law. What the -result will be is uncertain; but to be thus braved by a scoundrel will -be lessening the dignity of our government. He is married into a -powerful family, and appears, next to White Hair, to have the most -influence in the Grand [Osage] village. The general will please to -observe that much of the foregoing rests on conjecture, and therefore -will give it its due weight. But to him I not only write as my -general, but as a paternal friend, who would not make use of my open -communications, when not capable of being substantiated by proofs. - -We have heard nothing of the Potowatomies; but should they come in a -few days, they will meet with a warm reception, as all are ready to -receive them. - -Since my arrival here many Spanish medals have been shown me, and some -commissions. All I have done on the subject is merely to advise their -delivery below, when they would be acknowledged by our government. -Many have applied for permission to go to Saint Louis; none of which I -have granted except to the son of Sans Orielle, who goes down to make -inquiry for his sister. - -I have advanced our express some things on account, and forward his -receipts; also, some trifles to Barroney, whom I have found to be one -of the finest young men I ever knew in his situation. He appears to -have entirely renounced all his Saint Louis connections, and is as -firm an American as if born one; he of course is entirely discarded by -the people of Saint Louis; but I hope he will not suffer for his -fidelity. - -On the chart forwarded by Lieutenant Wilkinson is noted the census -which I caused to be taken of the village of the Little Osage; that of -the big one I shall likewise obtain--they are from actual enumeration. -Lieutenant Wilkinson, if nothing extraordinary prevents, will descend -the Arkansaw, accompanied by Ballenger and two men, as the former is -now perfectly acquainted with the mode of taking courses and -protracting his route, and the latter appears as if he had not the -proper capacity for it, although a good dispositioned and brave man. - - I am, dear Sir, - Your obedient servant, - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE, Lt. - - GEN. WILKINSON. - - -_Art. 11. Letter, Pike to Wilkinson. (Orig. No. 11, p. 43.)- - - [OSAGE TOWNS], Aug. 29th, 1806. - -DEAR SIR: - -I will continue my communications by relating that Wind has come in -and informed me that the other two horses which he promised have been -withdrawn by their owners. He appeared really distressed, and I -conceive I do him justice in believing that he is extremely mortified -at the deceptions which have been passed on him. - -It is with extreme pain that I keep myself cool amongst the -difficulties which those people appear to have a disposition to throw -in my way; but I have declared to them that I should go on, even if I -collected our tents and other baggage which we will be obliged to -leave together, and burnt them on the spot. - -I have sold the batteau which I brought up, and which was extremely -rotten, for $100 in merchandise, the price at this place; which I -conceive was preferable to leaving her to destruction, as I am afraid -I do the barge (for which I demanded $150), although I leave her under -the charge of Wind, and shall report her to Colonel [Thomas] Hunt. - -I shall dispatch the express to-morrow, as he complains much of the -detention, etc., and as I hope nothing worthy of note will occur at -this place previous to our departure. I hope the general will believe -me to be and, should this be my last report, to have been, his -sincerely attached friend and obedient servant, - - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE, Lt. - - GEN. WILKINSON. - - -_Art. 12. Letter, Pike to Wilkinson. (Orig. No. 12, pp. 43, 44.)- - - OSAGE TOWNS, Aug. 30th, 1806. - -DEAR SIR: - -I have brought Mr. Noal, alias Maugraine, to reason, and he either -goes himself or hires, at his expense, a young man who is here who -speaks the Panis language, and in many other respects is preferable to -himself; but he will be the bearer of the express to Saint Louis. - -Cheveux Blanche requested me to inform you that there is an Osage -murderer in his village, who killed a Frenchman on the Arkansaw; but -owing to the great dissensions and schism of the Arkansaw faction, he -is fearful to deliver him up without some of his friends having -agreed to it, and his authority being strengthened by a formal demand -from you; when he assures me he shall be brought down a prisoner. -Indeed Cheveux Blanche appears to be very delicately situated, as the -village on the Arkansaw serves as a place of refuge for all the young, -daring, and discontented; added to which, they are much more regularly -supplied with ammunition, and, should not our government take some -steps to prevent it, they will ruin the Grand village, as they are at -liberty to make war without restraint, especially on the nations who -are to the west, and have plenty of horses. The chief says he was -promised, at Washington, that these people should be brought back to -join him; but, on the contrary, many of his village are emigrating -there. - -Owing to the difficulty of obtaining horses, Mr. Henry returns from -this place. In descending the Mississippi I will request him to pay -his respects to you. - -I last evening took the census of the Grand village, and found it to -be: men, 502; boys, 341; women and girls, 852; total, 1695; lodges, -214. - -The express waits, which I hope the general will accept as an excuse -for this scrawl, having written him fully on the 28th and 29th inst. - - I am, dear General, - Your ever sincere friend - and obedient servant, - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE, Lt. - - GEN. J. WILKINSON. - - -_Art. 13. Letter, Pike to Dearborn. (Orig. No. 13, pp. 45, 46.)- - - PAWNEE REPUBLIC, Oct. 1st, 1806. - -SIR: - -We arrived here on the 25th ult., after a tedious march of 375 miles, -the distance, as I conceive, being very much augmented by the Osages -who accompanied us leading us too far to the south, owing to their -great fear of the Kans. We suffered considerably with thirst, but our -guns furnished us amply with buffalo meat. - -We delivered in safety to the chief the two young Pawnees who had -lately visited Washington, and caused to be explained to the nation -the parole which they bore from the president of the United States. - -On our arrival, we found the Spanish and American flags both expanded -in the village, and were much surprised to learn that it was not more -than three or four weeks since a party of Spanish troops, whose -numbers were estimated by the Indians of this town at 300, had -returned to Santa Fe. We further learned that a large body of troops -had left N. Mexico, and on their march had met with the villagers of -the Pawnee Mahaws, who were on one of their semi-annual excursions; -that they encamped together, and entered into a treaty; but after this -the Pawnees raised their camp in the night, and stole a large portion -of the Spaniards' horses. This circumstance induced them to halt on -the Arkansaw with the main body of the troops, and to send forward the -party who appeared at this village. They proposed to this chief to -join a party of his warriors to their troops, march to and entirely -destroy the village of the Pawnee Mahaws; this proposition he had -prudence enough to reject, although at war with that nation. The -Spanish officer informed him that his superior, who remained on the -Arkansaw, had marched from Santa Fe with an intention of entering into -a treaty with the following nations of Indians, viz.: The Kanses, -Pawnee Republic, Grand Pawnees, Pawnee Loups, Otos, and Mahaws; and -had with him a grand medal, commissions, and four mules for each; but -by the stroke of the Pawnee Mahaws the plan was disconcerted, except -only as to this nation. The commissions are dated Santa Fe, 15th of -June, 1806, signed governor-general, etc., etc., of New Mexico, and -run in the usual style of Spanish commissions to savages, as far as I -was capable of judging of their contents. - -The chief further informed me that the officer who commanded said -party was too young to hold councils, etc.; that he had only come to -open the road; that in the spring his superior would be here, and -teach the Indians what was good for them; and that they would build a -town near them. In short, it appears to me to have been an expedition -expressly for the purpose of striking a dread into those different -nations of the Spanish power, and to bring about a general combination -in its favor. Under these impressions, I have taken the earliest -opportunity of reporting the infringement of our territory, in order -that our government may not remain in the dark as to the views of her -neighbor. - -I effected a meeting at this place between a few Kans and Osages, who -smoked the pipe of peace and buried the hatchet, agreeably to the -wishes of their great father; in consequence of which a Kans has -marched for the Osage nation, and some of the latter propose to -accompany the former to their village; whether this good understanding -will be permanent, I will not take on me to determine; but at least a -temporary good effect has succeeded. - -From the Osage towns, I have taken the courses and distances by the -route we came, marking each river or rivulet we crossed, pointing out -the dividing ridges, etc. The waters which we crossed were the heads -of the [Little] Osage, White [Neosho], and Verdigrise rivers, [the two -last] branches of the Arkansaw, and the waters of the [Smoky Hill fork -of the] Kans river. The latitude of this place, I presume, will be in -about 39 deg. 30' N., and I hope to obtain every other astronomical -observation which will be requisite to fix its geographical situation -beyond dispute. I expect to march from here in a few days; but the -future prospects of the voyage are entirely uncertain, as the savages -strive to throw every impediment in our way, agreeably to the orders -received from the Spaniards. Being seated on the ground, and writing -on the back of a book, I hope will plead my excuse for this scrawl. - - I am, Sir, - With high respect, - Your obedient servant, - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE, Lt. - - THE HON. HENRY DEARBORN, - Secretary War Department. - - -_Art. 14. Letter, Pike to Wilkinson. (Orig. No. 14, pp. 47-50.)- - - PAWNEE REPUBLIC, Oct. 2d, 1806. - -DEAR GENERAL: - -Inclosed you have a copy of my letter from this place to the secretary -of war, in order that, should you think any communication on the -contents necessary, you may have a perfect command of the information -given the war department, and will be the more capable of illustrating -the subject. - -You will perceive by said communication, that we were led considerably -out of our course by our guides, in my opinion not less than 100 -miles; this was entirely owing to the pusillanimity of the Osage, who -were more afraid of the Kans than I could possibly have imagined. - -You will likewise perceive the council which took place between those -nations under our auspices, and its effects, but which I candidly -confess I have very little hopes will be productive of a permanent -peace, as none of the principal men of either nation were present; but -as both are anxious for a cessation of hostilities, perhaps it may -have the desired effect. - -Two of the Kans chiefs have said they will pursue the voyage with me -agreeably to my orders. I do not yet know whether they will descend -the Arkansaw with Lieut. Wilkinson, or continue on to Red river with -me; but they have their own selection. - -The general will no doubt be struck with some surprise to perceive -that so large a party of Spanish troops have been so lately in our -territory. No doubt at first you would conclude that it must have been -militia; but when informed that their infantry were armed with muskets -and bayonets and had drums, that the men wore long mustaches and -whiskers which almost covered the whole of their faces; that their -cavalry were armed with swords and pistols, and that regular guards -and patrols were kept by horse and foot, you may probably change your -opinion. - -The route by which they came and returned was by no means the direct -one from Santa Fe, and why they should have struck so low down as the -Grand Saline, unless they had an idea of striking at the village of -the Grand Pest, or conceived the Saline to be in their territory, I -cannot imagine. - -On our arrival here, we were received with great pomp and ceremony by -about 300 men on horseback, and with great apparent friendship by the -chief. The Osage (one chief and four warriors) were presented with -eight horses; the Kans who arrived two days after were also presented -with horses. The day after, we assembled the four principal chiefs to -dine, after which I presented the principal with a double-barreled -gun, gorget,[VI-7] and other articles (this man wore the grand Spanish -medal); gave to the second the small medal you furnished me, with -other articles; and to each of the others a gorget in their turn. -Those presents I conceived would have a good effect, both as to -attaching them to our government and in our immediate intercourse. - -At the council which was held a day or two afterward I presented them -with merchandise which at this place should be valued at $250; and -after explaining their relative situation as to the Spanish and -American governments, I asked on my part, if they would assist us with -a few horses, a Tetau prisoner who spoke Pawnee to serve as an -interpreter, an exchange of colors, and finally, for some of their -chiefs to accompany us, to be sent on to Washington. The exchange of -colors was the only request granted at the time; and for particular -reasons, which Lieut. Wilkinson related, I thought proper to return -them to the chief. After spending two or three anxious days, we were -given to understand that our requests could not be complied with in -the other points, and were again strongly urged by the head chief to -return the way we came, and not prosecute our voyage any further. This -brought on an explanation as to our views toward the Spanish -government, in which the chief declared that it had been the intention -of the Spanish troops to proceed further toward the Mississippi, but -that he objected to it, and they listened to him and returned; he -therefore hoped we would be equally reasonable. Finding me still -determined on proceeding, he told me in plain terms (if the -interpreter erred not) that it was the will of the Spaniards we should -not proceed; which I not answering, he painted innumerable -difficulties which he said lay in the way; but finding all his -arguments had no effect, he said "it was a pity," and was silent. - -This day I have sent out several of my party to purchase horses, but -know not yet how we shall succeed, as the Kans have intimated an idea -that the chief will prohibit his people from trading with us. - -The Pawnees and the Tetaus are at war; the latter killed six of the -former in August last; consequently effecting any communication with -the Tetaus by means of this nation is impossible. - -If God permits, we shall march from here in a few days, and on the -Arkansaw I shall remain until I build two small canoes for Lieut. -W[ilkinson], whose party will consist of Ballenger and two or three -men, with three Osage. Those canoes will be easily managed, and in -case of accident to one, the other will still be sufficient to -transport their baggage. - -I am informed that in a few days he will meet French hunters, and -probably arrive at the village of the Grand Pest in a fortnight; as -all the Osage nation are apprised of his descent, I conceive he will -meet with no insurmountable difficulties.[*] The Tetaus are at open -war with the Spaniards, so that could we once obtain an introduction, -I conceive we should meet with a favorable reception. Yet how it is to -be brought about I am much at a loss to determine; but knowing that, -at this crisis of affairs, an intimate connection with that nation -might be extremely serviceable to my country, I shall proceed to find -them, in hopes to find some means, through the French, Osage, and -Pawnee languages, of making ourselves understood. - - [*] This was erroneous, but it was my impression at the time. - (Orig. note.)] - -Any number of men who may reasonably be calculated on would find no -difficulty in marching by the route we came, with baggage wagons, -field artillery, and all the usual appendages of a small army; and if -all the route to Santa Fe should be of the same description, in case -of war I would pledge my life and what is infinitely dearer, my honor, -for the successful march of a reasonable body of troops into the -province of New Mexico. - -I find the savages of this country less brave, but possessing much -more duplicity and by far a greater propensity to lying and stealing, -than those I had to pass through on my last [Mississippi] voyage. - -I am extremely doubtful if any chief of those nations can be induced -to prosecute the voyage with us, as their dread of the Tetaus and the -objections of the Pawnees seem to outweigh every argument and -inducement to the contrary. - - * * * * * - -OCT. 3D. - -The Pawnee chief has induced the Kans to return to their villages, by -giving them a gun and promising horses, with many frightful pictures -drawn [of what would happen] if they proceeded. - -The Osages lent me five horses, which their people who accompanied us -were to have led back; but receiving fresh ones from the Pawnees, they -would not be troubled with them. In fact, it was a fortunate -circumstance, as four of the horses I obtained of the Osage have such -bad backs they cannot proceed, and we will be obliged to leave them; -and not purchasing here with facility, I would have been obliged to -sacrifice some of our baggage. I therefore sent them a certificate for -each horse, on the Indian agent below, which I hope the general will -order him to discharge. - -I know the general's goodness will excuse this scrawl, as he is well -acquainted with the situation it must be written in, and at the same -time, believe me to be his sincere friend and - - Most obedient humble servant, - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE, Lt. - - GENERAL J. WILKINSON. - - -_Art. 15.[VI-8] Letter, Pike to Wilkinson. (Orig. No. 15, pp. 50-53.)- - - ON THE ARKANSAW, latitude 37 deg. 44' 9'' N., Oct. 24th, 1806. - -DEAR GENERAL: - -Our party arrived here on the 15th inst., myself and Dr. Robinson on -the 19th [18th by Itinerary, p. 427]. We, having been out to seek the -trace of the Spanish troops, missed the party, and were not able to -join them until the 4th [3d] day. - -The river being very regular, Lieut. Wilkinson had calculated to -proceed on the day following on the most direct route for the Red -[_sic_] river; but shortly after my joining, considerable rain fell -and raised the river, and we have been ever since preparing wooden and -skin canoes for that gentleman and party to descend in. The river is -between 300 and 400 yards in width, with generally flat low banks, not -more than two or three feet high, and the bed a sand-bank from one -side to the other. The want of water will present the greatest -obstacle to the progress of the party who descend the Arkansaw, as -they have no cause to fear a scarcity of provision, having some -bushels of corn on hand, and can at their option take as much dried -meat as they think proper, hundreds of pounds of which are lying on -scaffolds at our camp; and they are likewise accompanied by the choice -of our hunters. - -Under these circumstances, and those stated in my letter from the -Pawnees, I can assert with confidence there are no obstacles I should -hesitate to encounter, although those inseparable from a voyage of -several hundred leagues through a wilderness inhabited only by savages -may appear of the greatest magnitude to minds unaccustomed to such -enterprises. Lieut. Wilkinson and party appear in good spirits, and -show a disposition which must vanquish every difficulty. - -We were eight days traveling from the Pawnee village to the Arkansaw, -our general course S. 10 deg. W. Several days we lay by nearly half, owing -to various circumstances; my course made it 150 miles, but I could now -march it in 120. Lieut. Wilkinson has copied and carries with him a -very elegant protracted sketch of the route, noting the streams, -hills, etc., that we crossed; their courses, bearings, etc.; and -should I live to arrive, I will pledge myself to show their -connections and general direction with considerable accuracy, as I -have myself spared no pains in reconnoitering or obtaining information -from the savages in our route. - -From this point we shall ascend the river until we strike the -mountains, or find the Tetaus; thence bear more to the S. until we -find the head of the Red river, where we shall be detained some time; -after which nothing shall cause a halt until my arrival at -Natchitoches. - -I speak in all those cases in the positive mood, as, so far as lies in -the compass of human exertions, we command the power; but I pretend -not to surmount impossibilities, and I well know the general will -pardon my anticipating a little to him. - -The general will probably be surprised to find that the expenses[VI-9] -of the expedition will more than double the contemplated sum of our -first calculations; but I conceived the Spaniards were making such -great exertions to debauch the minds of our savages, economy might be -very improperly applied, and I likewise have found the purchase of -horses to be attended with much greater expense than was expected at -St. Louis. For those reasons, when I advert to the expenses of my two -voyages, which I humbly conceive might be compared with the one -performed by Captains Lewis and Clark, and the appropriations made for -theirs, I feel a consciousness that it is impossible for the most -rigid to censure my accounts. - -I cannot yet say if I shall sacrifice my horses at Red river, but -every exertion shall be made to save them for the public; some, if in -good condition, would be fine ones, and average between $50 and $60. -Should the fortune of war at length have honored me with a -company,[VI-10] I hope the general will recollect his promise to me, -and have my command attached to it; and on my arrival I shall take the -liberty of soliciting his influence, that they may obtain the same or -similar rewards, as those who accompanied Capt. Lewis; as I will make -bold to say that they have in the two voyages incurred as great -dangers, and gone through as many hardships. - -Dr. Robinson presents his respectful compliments, and is sanguine of -the success of our expedition. - - I am, dear General, - Your ever attached friend - and obedient servant, - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE. - - GENERAL J. WILKINSON. - -_Statistical Abstract of the Indians who inhabit that part of -Louisiana visited by Captain Z. M. Pike in His Tour of Discovery in -the years 1806 and 1807._ - - Column Headings-- - D: Warriors. - E: Women. - F: Children. - G: Villages. - - ------------------------------------+---------------------------- - | - Names. | - --------------+---------------------+----------------------+----- - | | | | | | - English. | Indian. | French. | [D] | [E] | [F] | [G] - --------------+-----------+---------+------+------+--------+----- - | | | | | | - I. Osage | Wasbasha | Osage | 502 | 852 | 341 M. | 1 - 1. Grand | | Grand | | | | - village[a] | | Osage | | | | - | | | | | | - [2. Little | Wasbasha | Petit | 250 | 241 | 174 F. | 1 - village[a]] | | Osage | | | 159 M. | - | | | | | --- | - | | | | | 333 | - | | | | | | - [3. Arkansaw | Wasbasha | | 500 | 700 | 300 M. | 1 - village[b]] | | +------+------+--------+----- - | | Osages | | | | - | | Total | 1252 | 1793 | 974 | 3 - | | +------+------+--------+----- - | | Kan | | | | - II. Kans[c] | Kansa | [Total] | 465 | 500 | 600 | 1 - | | +------+------+--------+----- - | | | | | | - III. Pawnee | Pawnane | Panis | 508 | 550 | 560 | - 1. Republican | | | | | | 1 - village[a] | | | | | | - | | | | | | - 2. Grand | Pawnane | Panis | 1000 | 1120 | 1000 | 1 - Village[c] | | | | | | - | | | | | | - 3. Loup | Pawnane | Panis | 485 | 500 | 500 | 1 - village[c] | | +------+------+--------+----- - | | Pawnees | | | | - | | total | 1993 | 2170 | 2060 | 3 - | | | | | | - IV. Tetan[c] | Camanches | [Total] | 2700 | 3000 | 2500 | - | | [Grand +------+------+--------+----- - | | total] | 6410 | 7463 | 6134 | 7 - --------------+-----------+---------+------+------+--------+----- - - [a] Census taken by myself; men counted, women and children - estimated. - - [b] Estimates furnished by Grand Osage chiefs. - - [c] On information. (Z. M. P.) - - - Column Headings-- - H: Probable Souls. - I: Lodges of Roving Bands. - J: Fire Arms. - K: Primitive Language. - - --------------+-------+------+------++---------- - | | | || - English. | [H] | [I] | [J] || [K] - --------------+-------+------+------++---------- - | | | || - I. Osage | 1695 | 214 | 500 || Osage - 1. Grand | | | || - village | | | || - | | | || - [2. Little | 824 | 102 | 250 || Osage - village] | | | || - | | | || - [3. Arkansaw | 1500 | 200 | 450 || Osage - village] +-------+------+------++---------- - | | | || - Osages total | 4019 | 516 | 1209 || - +-------+------+------++---------- - | | | || - II. Kans | 1565 | 204 | 450 || Osage - +-------+------+------++---------- - | | | || - III. Pawnee | | | || - 1. Republican | 1618 | 44 | 200 || Pawnee - village | | | || - | | | || - 2. Grand | 3120 | 90 | 300 || Pawnee - Village | | | || - | | | || - 3. Loup | 1485 | 40 | 200 || Pawnee - village +-------+------+------++---------- - | | | || - Pawnee total | 6223 | 174 | 700 || - | | | || - IV. Tetan | 8200 | 1020 | 270 || Camanche - +-------+------+------++ - Grand total | 20007 | 1914 | 2620 || - --------------+-------+------+------++---------- - - Column Headings-- - L: Traders or Bands with whom they traffic. - M: Value of Merchandise for Annual Consumption - N: Annual Peltry, Packs. - O: Species of Peltry. - - --------------+-----------+--------+-----------+----------- - | | | | - English. | [L] | [M] | [N] | [O] - --------------+-----------+--------+-----------+----------- - | | | | - I. Osage | St. Louis | $10000 | 1000 | Deer, - 1. Grand | | | | bear, - village | | | | otter, - | | | | beaver, - | | | | a few - | | | | buffalo - | | | | - [2. Little | St. Louis | 8000 | 300 | do. - village] | | | | - | | | | - [3. Arkansaw | Arkansaw | | | - village] | r. | | | - | | | | - II. Kans | St. Louis | 8000 | 250 deer | Deer, - | | | 15 beaver | beaver, - | | | 100 otter | otter, - | | | | bear, - | | | | buffalo - | | | | - III. Pawnee | St. Louis | 8000 | | Deer, - 1. Republican | and Kans | | | buffalo, - village | | | | a few - | | | | beaver - | | | | and - | | | | otter - | | | | - 2. Grand | St. Louis | 15000 | | do. - Village | possibly | | | - | once in 3 | | | - | years | | | - | Spaniards | | | - | | | | - 3. Loup | do. | 8000 | | do. - village | | | | - | | | | - IV. Tetan | Spaniards | 30000 | | Buffalo - | of N. | | | robes and - | Mexico | | | horses - --------------+-----------+--------+-----------+----------- - - -------------+-------------------+----------------+------------------ - | | | - | | | With whom at - English. | Best Positions | With whom | peace, or in - | for Trading Posts.| at war. | alliance. - | | | - -------------+-------------------+----------------+------------------ - | | | - I. Osage | Middle branch | Tetaus, | Little Osage, - 1. Grand | of Osage r. bet. | Potowatomies, | All the Pawnees, - village | Grand and Little | Arkansaws, | Sacs, Reynards, - | Villages | Cherokees, | Delawares, - | | Chickasaws, | Shawanese, - | | Creeks, | Kickapous, - | | Padoucas, | Otos, Missouries, - | | Caddoes | Mahaws, etc.; - | | | Kans uncertain - | | | - | | | - | | | - | | | - | | | - | | | - | | | - | | | - | | | - [2. Little | Middle branch | do. | do. - village] | of Osage r bet. | | - | Grand and Little | | - | villages, and | | - | above Gr. Osage | | - | on the Arkansaw, | | - | and on the | | - | side of the | | - | Missouri | | - | | | - | | | - [3. Arkansaw | | do. | do. - village] | | | - | | | - II. Kans | Entrance of | None, if at | All their - | Kans r., or at | peace with | neighbors - | the village | Osage | - | | | - III. Pawnee | do. | Tetaus and | Kans, Osages, - 1. Republican| | Indians of N. | and all Indians - village | | Mexico; Panis | of the East - | | Loups | - | | | - | | | - | | | - 2. Grand | Entrance of La | Tetaus and | do. - Village | Platte | Indians of N. | - | | Mexico | - | | | - 3. Loup | do. | Tetaus and | do. - village | | Indians of N. | - | | Mexico, and | - | | Pawnee Republic| - | | | - IV. Tetan | High up Red r. | Pawnees, Utahs,| With all Spanish - | and near the | Osage, Kans | Indians - | mts. on the | | - | Arkansaw | | - -------------+-------------------+----------------+------------------ - - ------------+----------------------------------------+------------------ - | | - | Names of the Chiefs or Principal Men. | - English. +-------------+------------+-------------+ Remarks. - | | | | - | Indian. | French. | English. | - ------------+-------------+------------+-------------+------------------ - | | | | - I. Osage |Cahagatonga |Cheveux |White Hair |Grand and little - 1. Grand | |Blanche | |medals, colors, - village | | | |etc.; first chief - |Watchawaha |Jean La Fon | |Second Chief, - | | | |son-in-law - | | | |to White Hair - |Tawangaha |Fils de |He who drives|Literally from the - | |Canard |villages |Indian - |Ichesohungar | |Wise Family |Son of Cheveux - | | | |Blanche - |Hapause | |Pointed Horn |First Soldier - |Chaporanga |Bonnet | | - |Gihagatche |du Boeuf |The Chief | - | | | himself | - |Shenga Wassa |Belle Oiseau|Beautiful |Accompanied me to - | | | Bird |the Pawnees - |Wasaba Tunga |Sans Nerve |Without Nerve| - |Ogahawasa | |Son-in-Law | - |Tourmansara | |Heart of the | - | | |Town | - | | | | - [2. Little |Tuttasuggy |Le Vent |The Wind |First chief of - village] | | | | Little Osage - |Watchkesingar|Soldat de |Soldier's Dog|Second chief of - | | Chien | | Little Osage - |Nezuma | |Rain which |Brother of first - | | |Walks | chief - |Tetobasi |Sans Oreille|Without Ears |First Soldier - |Tarehem | |Yellow Skin |49 Little Osages - | | |Deer | killed since - | | | | under our - | | | | government - |Maugraine | |Big Rogue | - | | | | - [3. Arkansaw| | | | - village] | | | | - | | | | - II. Kans | | | | - | | | | - | | | | - | | | | - III. Pawnee |Characterish |Loup Blanche|White Wolf | - 1. Repub- |Iskatape |Homme Riche |Rich Man | - lican | ---- | ---- |Republican | - village | | |Chief | - | | |Two Sons of | - | | |Characterish | - | | | | - 2. Grand | | | | - Village | | | | - | | | | - | | | | - 3. Loup | | | | - village | | | | - | | | | - | | | | - | | | | - IV. Tetan | | | | ---------------+-------------+------------+-------------+---------------- - -FOOTNOTES: - -[VI-1] General Wilkinson's instructions to Lieutenant Pike were -conveyed in the form of two letters, of June 24th and July 12th, -respectively, made in the orig. ed. pp. 107-110 of main text of Pt. 2, -though they were set in smaller type as a sort of preface or -introduction. But as no such preliminary is observed in the other two -parts of the book, and as these orders are in the form of letters from -the general to his lieutenant, I think they are preferably brought in -here. By this single transposition the whole of the correspondence -relating to the Arkansaw expedition is brought together in -chronological order to form the present Chapter VI. - -[VI-2] On the subject of our then strained relations with New Spain I -have examined much unpublished manuscript in the Archives of the -Government at Washington, but most of it has become a matter of -well-known history, needless to bring up here. It is well understood -that Pike had secret instructions from the traitor, General Wilkinson, -over and beyond those which were ostensible; and no doubt the main -purpose of his Expedition was to open the way to Santa Fe, with -reference to such military operations as then seemed probable. It is -certain that General Wilkinson contemplated the possibility if not the -probability of invading New Mexico. Take as evidence the following -extract of a letter he wrote to the Secretary of War, dated St. Louis, -Nov. 26th, 1805: - -" ... Our situation at New Orleans is a defenceless one, & Colonel -Freeman's removal of two Companies from Fort Adams to that city leaves -us without the means of offence above Batton Rouge, which I do [not] -like, but Freeman felt himself too feeble to stand alone without those -Companies--I most ardently implore we may not be forced to War, -because I seek repose & we are not indeed prepared for it, that is -against European troops--yet if we must draw the sword, the whole of -the troops destined to operate West of the Mississippi should be -mounted, whether Gun-men or sword-men, because every Man of the Enemy -will be found on Horse Back, and the composition should be such as I -have described in a former Letter--If any thing should be done from -this Quarter direct, and I might be indulged to recommend my officers, -to plan & Lead the expedition. If I do not reduce New Mexico, at -least, in one Campaign, I will forfeit my Head." - -[VI-3] Art. 3 bears the same number that this piece had in the orig. -ed., and the same is the case with all the following articles of the -present chapter, with one exception, where transposition of Orig. Nos. -8 and 9 to make Arts. 9 and 8 is required to preserve the -chronological order. All these letters are from Pike to Wilkinson, -excepting my Art. 8, Orig. No. 9, which is from Wilkinson to Pike, and -one to General Dearborn. Pike's letters are in the nature of reports -of progress to his commanding general and the Secretary of War. They -ceased, of course, upon his separation from Lieutenant Wilkinson, and -nothing further was heard of or from him till his return from Mexico, -in July, 1807. - -[VI-4] There is no allusion to this matter in the letter as originally -printed, where a long row of asterisks indicates the elision of what -it was not thought prudent to publish at that time. - -[VI-5] There were two Bissells, both of Connecticut, and of the same -or similar rank in the army, often confused in records of the time, -unless their first names are given, as in this instance; 1. Daniel -Bissell became an ensign in the 1st Infantry, Apr. 11th, 1792; was -arranged to the 1st sub-Legion Sept. 4th, 1792; promoted to a -lieutenancy Jan. 3d, 1794; assigned to the 1st Infantry Nov. 1st, -1796; made a captain Jan. 1st, 1799; lieutenant-colonel, 1st Infantry, -Aug. 18th, 1808; colonel, 5th Infantry, Aug. 15th, 1812; -brigadier-general, Mar. 9th, 1814; honorably discharged June 1st, -1821, and died Dec. 14th, 1833. 2. Russell Bissell became a lieutenant -of the 2d Infantry Mar. 4th, 1791; was arranged to the 2d sub-Legion -Sept. 4th, 1792; made captain Feb. 19th, 1793; assigned to the 2d -Infantry Nov. 1st, 1796; transferred to the 1st Infantry Apr. 1st, -1802; promoted to be major of the 2d Infantry Dec. 9th, 1807, and died -Dec. 18th, 1807. Two other Connecticut Bissells who became army -officers a little later were Lieutenant Hezekiah W., who entered in -1801 and died in 1802; and Captain Lewis, who entered as an ensign in -1808 and resigned in 1817. One Daniel Bissell of Vermont served as a -first lieutenant for about a year, 1799-1800, and in still later years -there have been several other army officers of the same surname. - -[VI-6] The above is such an important paragraph that I reproduce it -verbatim from the original, though it is so badly constructed as to be -very obscure. The obscurity, however, is simply bad grammar, not -intentional veiling of anything; and as the sentences cannot be -conveniently reconstructed in the text, I would read as follows: - -"With respect to the Ietans, the general may rest assured that I shall -be very cautious about trusting them. I feel more at a loss how to -conduct myself with the Spaniards, for my instructions send me to the -Comanche country, part of which is no doubt claimed by Spain, though -the boundaries between Louisiana and New Spain have never been -settled. Consequently, should I meet a Spanish party from the villages -near Santa Fe, I think it would be good policy to give them to -understand (1) that my party was going to join our troops near -Natchitoches, but had mistaken the Rio Grande for Red river; (2) that -if it would be agreeable to the Spanish commandant, some or all of us -would pay him a polite visit; and (3) that if he did not wish us to do -this, we would go direct to Natchitoches. In any event, I flatter -myself that I shall get out of the scrape somehow. But if Spanish -jealousy of Americans, and the Aaron Burr conspiracy, cause us to be -made prisoners of war (in time of peace), I trust that you will see -that we are released, and they are punished for the insult. Moreover, -if I do not feel assured they will treat us well in Mexico, I will -fight them, no matter how many there are, before I will let them take -us there." - -This sort of talk is not that mixture of youthful enthusiasm with -prudence for which Pike begs Wilkinson's pardon in the next paragraph; -but the determination of a resolute young fellow to obey orders to the -best of his ability, and accomplish if possible the purpose of the -secret instructions given him by General Wilkinson. It is also what -boys call a "dead give away"; for here, at the outset of his -Expedition, Pike is talking about going to New Mexico, intending to -deceive the Spaniards he expected to meet there, and weighing the -chances of their good or bad treatment of himself and party. I forbear -to characterize the ethics of the situation; the discerning reader -will be able to look through this hole in a grindstone, and form his -own conclusions: see also note 46 p. 504. - -[VI-7] A sort of ornamental neck-band, such as used to be worn by some -officers with insignia of rank, and somewhat like those still affected -by Free Masons and other ecclesiastical or civic orders on occasions -of ceremony. - -[VI-8] To this Art. 15 belongs the following table headed Statistical -Abstract of the Indians, etc., which in the orig. ed. was directed to -be bound facing p. 53. This page was followed by blank p. 54, the leaf -of the book thus represented being simply an overrunning of the matter -of the original folder. All that Recapitulation which was on p. 53 is -embodied in the table which now forms pp. 590, 591. - -[VI-9] An itemized account of the Congressional appropriation for, and -estimated expenses of, Lewis and Clark's Expedition, is given on p. -xxi of the 1893 ed. of L. and C. So far as I have been able to inform -myself, we lack the data which would enable us to make the comparison -which Pike modestly conceives might be favorable to his own -expeditions. To whatever sum may have been expended on the part of the -United States for the Mississippian voyage and the Arkansaw journey, -as performed under the orders of General Wilkinson, is to be added the -cost of the enforced Mexican tour, in so far as this was paid by the -United States on the strength of claims for reimbursement presented by -the Spanish authorities. On this latter score I have found some -curious unpublished documents in the archives of the War Department at -Washington. Certain of these items will be found beyond in proper -connection with the official correspondence on the subject. - -[VI-10] Pike's expected promotion to a captaincy occurred Aug. 12th, -1806. - - - - -PIKE'S EXPEDITIONS. - - - - -Part III. - -_THE MEXICAN TOUR._ - - - - -CHAPTER I. - -ITINERARY: THROUGH NEW MEXICO ON THE RIO GRANDE TO EL PASO, FEB. -27TH-MAR. 21ST, 1807. - - -Friday, Feb. 27th, 1807. In the morning I discovered that the Spanish -lieutenant [Don Ignatio Saltelo] was writing letters addressed to the -governor and others; on which I demanded if he was not going on with -me to Santa Fe. He appeared confused and said, No; that his orders -were so positive as to the safe conduct and protection of my men, that -he dare not go and leave any behind; that his companion [Don Bartolome -Fernandez] would accompany me to Santa Fe with 50 men, while he with -the others would wait for the sergeant [Meek] and his party. I replied -that he had deceived me, and had not acted with candor; but that it -was now too late for me to remedy the evil. - -We marched about eleven o'clock, ascending the Rio del Norte [read Rio -Conejos] five miles more, S. 60 deg. W., when we went round through a -chain of hills and bore off to the south. We proceeded nine miles -further, when we crossed the main branch of that stream, which was now -bearing nearly west toward [or east from] the main chain of the third -chain of mountains [San Juan range]. We encamped on the opposite side. -Intensely cold; obliged to stop frequently and make fires. Snow deep. -Distance 15 [5 + 9 = 14] miles.[I'-1] - -_Feb. 28th._ We marched late. One of the Frenchmen informed me that -the expedition which had been at the Pawnees had descended the Red -river 233 leagues, and from thence crossed to the Pawnees expressly in -search of my party. This was afterward confirmed by the gentleman who -commanded the troops. He then expressed great regret at my -misfortunes, as he termed them, in being taken, and offered his -services in secreting papers, etc. I took him at his word, and for my -amusement thought I would try him; so I gave him a leaf or two of my -journal, copied, which mentioned the time of my sailing from Belle -Fontaine, and our force. This I charged him to guard very carefully -and give to me after the investigation of my papers at Santa Fe. This -day we saw a herd of wild horses. The Spaniards pursued them and -caught two colts, one of which the Indians killed and ate; the other -was let go. We pursued our journey over some hills, where the snow was -very deep, and encamped at last on the top of a pretty high hill, -among some pines. We left the river, which in general ran about six, -eight, and 10 miles to the left or east of us. Saw great sign of elk. -Distance 36 miles.[I'-2] - -_Sunday, Mar. 1st._ We marched early. Although we rode very hard we -only got to the village of L'eau Chaud, or Warm Spring [Ojo Caliente], -some time in the afternoon. The distance was about 45 miles. The -difference of climate was astonishing; after we left the hills and -deep snows, we found ourselves on plains where there was no snow, and -where vegetation was sprouting. - -The village of Warm Springs, or Aqua [Agua] Caliente in their -language, is situated on the eastern branch [bank] of a creek of that -name,[I'-3] and at a distance presents to the eye a square inclosure -of mud walls, the houses forming the walls. They are flat on top, or -with extremely little ascent on one side, where there are spouts to -carry off the water of the melting snow and rain when it falls; which, -we were informed, had been but once in two years previous to our -entering the country. Inside of the inclosure were the different -streets of houses of the same fashion, all of one story; the doors -were narrow, the windows small, and in one or two houses there were -talc lights [window-panes of that material]. This village had a mill -near it, situated on the little creek, which made very good flour. The -population consisted of civilized Indians, but much mixed blood. - -Here we had a dance which is called the fandango; but there -was one which was copied from the Mexicans, is now danced in the first -societies of New Spain, and has even been introduced at the court of -Madrid. - -This village may contain 500 souls. The greatest natural curiosity is -the warm springs, which are two in number, about 10 yards apart, each -affording sufficient water for a mill-seat. They appeared to be -impregnated with copper, and were more than 33 deg. above blood heat. From -this village the Tetaus drove off 2,000 horses at one time, when at -war with the Spaniards. - -_Mar. 2d._ We marched late, and passed several little mud-walled -villages and settlements, all of which had round mud towers of the -ancient shape and construction, to defend the inhabitants from the -intrusions of the savages. I was this day shown the ruins of several -old villages which had been taken and destroyed by the Tetaus. We were -frequently stopped by the women, who invited us into their houses to -eat; and in every place where we halted a moment there was a contest -who should be our hosts. My poor lads who had been frozen were -conducted home by old men, who would cause their daughters to dress -their feet, provide their victuals and drink, and at night give them -the best bed in the house. In short, all their conduct brought to my -recollection the hospitality of the ancient patriarchs, and caused me -to sigh with regret at the corruption of that noble principle by the -polish of modern ages. - -We descended the creek of Aqua Caliente about 12 miles, where it -joined the river of Conejos [Rio Chama[I'-4]] from the west. This -river was about 30 yards wide, and was settled for 12 miles above its -junction with the Aqua Caliente, as the latter was in its whole course -from the village of that name. From where they form a junction it was -about 15 miles to the Rio del Norte, on the eastern branch [read bank] -of which was situated the village of St. John's [San Juan], which was -the residence of the president priest of the province, who had resided -in it 40 years. - -The house-tops of the village of St. John's were crowded, as well as -the streets, when we entered, and at the door of the public quarters -we were met by the president priest. When my companion, who commanded -the escort, received him in a street and embraced him, all the poor -creatures who stood round strove to kiss the ring or hand of the holy -father; for myself, I saluted him in the usual style. My men were -conducted into the quarters, and I went to the house of the priest, -where we were treated with politeness. He offered us coffee, -chocolate, or whatever we thought proper, and desired me to consider -myself at home in his house. - -As I was going, some time after, to the quarters of my men, I was -addressed at the door by a man in broken English: "My friend, I am -very sorry to see you here; we are all prisoners in this country and -can never return; I have been a prisoner for nearly three years, and -cannot get out." I replied: "that as for his being a prisoner, it must -be for some crime; that with respect to myself I felt no apprehension; -and requested him to speak French, as I could hardly understand his -English." He began to demand of me so many different questions on the -mode of my getting into the country, my intention, etc., that by the -time I arrived in the room of my men, I was perfectly satisfied of his -having been ordered by some person to endeavor to obtain some -confession or acknowledgment of sinister designs in my having appeared -on the frontiers, and some confidential communications which might -implicate me. As he had been rather insolent in his inquiries, I -ordered my men to shut and fasten the door. I then told him that I -believed him to be an emissary sent on purpose by the governor, or -some person, to endeavor to betray me; that all men of that -description were scoundrels, and never should escape punishment, -whilst I possessed the power to chastise them--immediately ordering my -men to seize him, and cautioning him, at the same time, that, if he -cried out, or made the least resistance, I would be obliged to make -use of the saber which I had in my hand. On this he was so much -alarmed, that he begged me for God's sake not to injure him; he also -said that he had been ordered by the government to meet me, and -endeavor to trace out what and who I was, and what were my designs, by -endeavoring to produce a confidence in him, by his exclaiming against -the Spaniards and complaining of the tyranny which they had exercised -toward him. After this confession, I ordered my men to release him, -and told him that I looked upon him as too contemptible for further -notice; but that he might tell the governor, the next time he employed -emissaries, to choose those of more abilities and sense; and that I -questioned if his Excellency would find the sifting of us an easy -task. - -This man's name was Baptiste Lalande;[I'-5] he had come from the -Illinois to the Pawnees, to trade with goods furnished him by William -Morrison, a gentleman of the Illinois, and thence to New Mexico with -the goods which he had procured, and established himself; he was the -same man on whom Robinson had a claim. He returned into the priest's -house with me, and, instead of making any complaint, he in reply to -their inquiries of who I was, etc., informed them that when he left -Louisiana I was governor of the Illinois. This I presume he took for -granted from my having commanded for some time the post of Kaskaskias, -the first military post the United States had established in that -country since the peace; however, the report served to add to the -respect with which my companion and host treated me. - -I had at this place the first good meal, wine, etc., which, with the -heat of the house, and perhaps rather an immoderate use of the -refreshments allowed me, produced an attack of something like cholera -morbus, which alarmed me considerably, and made me determine to be -more abstemious in future. - -This father was a great naturalist, or rather florist; he had large -collections of flowers, plants, etc., and several works on his -favorite studies, the margins and bottoms of which were filled with -his notes in the Castilian language. As I neither had a natural turn -for botany sufficient to induce me to puzzle my head much with the -Latin, nor understood Castilian, I enjoyed but little of the lectures -which he continued to give me for nearly two hours on those subjects; -but, by the exercise of a small degree of patience, I entirely -acquired the esteem of this worthy father, he calling me his son, and -lamenting extremely that my faith had not made me one of the holy -Catholic church. - -The father, being informed that I had some astronomical instruments -with me, expressed a desire to see them. All that I had here was my -sextant and a large glass which magnified considerably, calculated -for the day or night; the remainder of my instruments being with my -sergeant and party. On his examining the sextant, and my showing him -the effect of it in the reflection of the sun, he, as well as hundreds -who surrounded us, appeared more surprised at the effect of the -instrument than any nation of savages I was ever among. Here an idea -struck me as extraordinary--how a man who appeared to be a perfect -master of the ancient languages, a botanist, mineralogist, and -chemist, should be so ignorant of the powers of reflection and the -first principles of mathematics. But my friend explained that enigma, -by informing me of the care the Spanish government took to prevent any -branch of science from being made a pursuit, which would have a -tendency to extend the views of the subjects of the provinces to the -geography of their country, or any other subject which would bring to -view a comparison of their local advantages and situations with other -countries.[I'-6] - -St. John's was inclosed with a mud wall, and probably contained 1,000 -souls; its population consisted principally of civilized Indians, as -indeed does that of all the villages of New Mexico, the whites not -forming one-twentieth part of the inhabitants. - -_Mar. 3d._[I'-7] We marched after breakfast, B. Lalande accompanying -us, and in about six miles came to a village [Santa Cruz], where I -suppose there were more than 2,000 souls. Here we halted at the house -of a priest, who, understanding that I would not kiss his hand, would -not present it to me. The conduct and behavior of a young priest who -came in was such as in our country would have been amply sufficient -forever to have banished him from the clerical association--strutting -about with a dirk in his boot, a cane in his hand, whispering to one -girl, chucking another under the chin, going out with a third, etc. - -From this village [Santa Cruz] to another small village [Pojoaque], of -500 inhabitants, is seven miles. At each of those villages is a small -stream, sufficient for the purpose of watering their fields. At the -father's house we took coffee. From this village [Pojoaque] it was 17 -miles to another [Tesuque], of 400 civilized Indians. Here we changed -horses and prepared for entering the capital [Santa Fe[I'-8]], which -we came in sight of in the evening. It is situated along the banks of -a small [Santa Fe] creek, which comes down from the mountains, and -runs west to the Rio del Norte. The length of the capital on the creek -may be estimated at one mile; it is but three streets in width. - -Its appearance from a distance struck my mind with the same effect as -a fleet of the flat-bottomed boats which are seen in the spring and -fall seasons, descending the Ohio river. There are two churches, the -magnificence of whose steeples form a striking contrast to the -miserable appearance of the houses.[I'-9] On the north side of the -town is the square of soldiers' houses, equal to 120 or 140 on each -flank. The public square is in the center of the town; on the north -side of it is situated the palace, as they term it, or government -house, with the quarters for guards, etc. The other side of the -square is occupied by the clergy and public officers. In general the -houses have a shed before the front, some of which have a flooring of -brick; the consequence is that the streets are very narrow, say in -general 25 feet. The supposed population is 4,500 souls. On our -entering the town the crowd was great, and followed us to the -government house. When we dismounted we were ushered in through -various rooms, the floors of which were covered with skins of buffalo, -bear, or some other animal. We waited in a chamber for some time, -until his Excellency appeared, when we rose, and the following -conversation took place in French: - -_Governor._ Do you speak French? - -_Pike._ Yes, sir. - -_Governor._ You come to reconnoiter our country, do you? - -_Pike._ I marched to reconnoiter our own. - -_Governor._ In what character are you? - -_Pike._ In my proper character, an officer of the United States army. - -_Governor._ And this Robinson--is he attached to your party? - -_Pike._ No. - -_Governor._ Do you know him? - -_Pike._ Yes; he is from St. Louis. (I understood the doctor had been -sent 45 leagues from Santa Fe, under a strong guard. The haughty and -unfriendly reception of the governor induced me to believe war must -have been declared, and that if it were known Dr. Robinson had -accompanied me, he would be treated with great severity. I was correct -in saying he was not attached to my party, for he was only a -volunteer, who could not properly be said to be one of my command.) - -_Governor._ How many men have you? - -_Pike._ Fifteen. - -_Governor._ And this Robinson makes sixteen? - -_Pike._ I have already told your Excellency that he does not belong to -my party, and shall answer no more interrogatories on that subject. - -_Governor._ When did you leave St. Louis? - -_Pike._ July 15th. - -_Governor._ I think you marched in June. - -_Pike._ No, sir! - -_Governor._ Well! Return with Mr. Bartholomew to his house; come here -again at seven o'clock, and bring your papers. - -On which we returned to the house of my friend Bartholomew, who seemed -much hurt at the interview. - -At the door of the government house, I met the old Frenchman to whom I -had given the scrap of paper on the 27th of February. He had left us -in the morning, and, as I suppose, hurried in to make his report, and -I presume had presented this paper to his Excellency. I demanded, with -a look of contempt, if he had made his report? To which he made reply -in a humble tone, and began to excuse himself; but I did not wait to -hear his excuses. At the hour appointed we returned, when the governor -demanded my papers. I told him that I understood my trunk had been -taken possession of by his guard. He expressed surprise, immediately -ordered it in, and also sent for one Solomon Colly, formerly a -sergeant in our army, and one of the unfortunate company of [Captain -Philip] Nolan. We were seated, when he ordered Colly to demand my -name, to which I replied. He then demanded in what province I was -born. I answered in English, and then addressed his Excellency in -French, and told him that I did not think it necessary to enter into -such a catechising; that if he would be at the pains of reading my -commission from the United States, and my orders from my general, it -would be all that I presumed would be necessary to convince his -Excellency that I came with no hostile intentions toward the Spanish -government; that, on the contrary, I had express instructions to guard -against giving them offense or alarm; and that his Excellency would be -convinced that myself and party were rather to be considered objects -on which the so much celebrated generosity of the Spanish nation might -be exercised, than proper subjects to occasion the opposite -sentiments. - -He then requested to see my commission and orders, which I read to him -in French; on which he got up and gave me his hand, for the first -time, and said he was happy to be acquainted with me as a man of honor -and a gentleman; that I could retire this evening and take my trunk -with me; and that on the morrow he would make further arrangements. - -_Mar. 4th._ I was desired by the governor to bring up my trunk, in -order that he might make some observations on my route, etc. When he -ordered me to take my trunk over night, I had conceived that the -examination of papers was over. As many of my documents were intrusted -to the care of my men, and I found that the inhabitants were treating -the men with liquor, I was fearful they would become intoxicated, and -through inadvertency betray or discover the papers. I had therefore -obtained several of them and put them in the trunk, when an officer -arrived for myself and it, and I had no opportunity of taking them out -again before I was taken up to the palace. I discovered instantly that -I had been deceived, but it was too late to remedy the evil. - -After examining the contents of my trunk, he informed me that I must, -with my troops, go to Chihuahua, province of Biscay, to appear before -the commandant-general. He added: "You have the key of your trunk in -your own possession; the trunk will be put under charge of the officer -who commands your escort." The following conversation then took place: - -_Pike._ If we go to Chihuahua we must be considered as prisoners of -war? - -_Governor._ By no means. - -_Pike._ You have already disarmed my men without my knowledge; are -their arms to be returned or not? - -_Governor._ They can receive them any moment. - -_Pike._ But, sir, I cannot consent to be led three or four hundred -leagues out of my route, without its being by force of arms. - -_Governor._ I know you do not go voluntarily; but I will give you a -certificate from under my hand of my having obliged you to march. - -_Pike._ I will address you a letter on the subject.[I'-10] - -_Governor._ You will dine with me to-day, and march afterward to a -village about six miles distant, escorted by Captain Anthony -D'Almansa, with a detachment of dragoons, who will accompany you to -where the remainder of your escort is now waiting for you, under the -command of the officer [Don Facundo Malgares] who commanded the -expedition to the Pawnees. - -_Pike._ I would not wish to be impertinent in my observations to your -Excellency; but pray, sir! do you not think it was a greater -infringement of our territory to send 600 miles in the Pawnees', than -for me with our small party to come on the frontiers of yours with an -intent to descend Red river? - -_Governor._ I do not understand you. - -_Pike._ No, sir! any further explanation is unnecessary. - -I then returned to the house of my friend Bartholomew and wrote my -letter to his Excellency, which I had not finished before we were -hurried to dinner. - -In the morning I received from the governor, by the hands of his -private secretary, $21, notifying to me that it was the amount of the -king's allowance for my party to Chihuahua, and that it would be -charged to me on account of my subsistence. From this I clearly -understood that it was calculated that the expenses of the party to -Chihuahua would be defrayed by the United States. I also received by -the same hands, from his Excellency, a shirt and neck-cloth, with his -compliments, wishing me to accept of them, "as they had been made in -Spain by his sister and never worn by any person." For this I -returned him my sincere acknowledgments; and it may not be deemed -irrelevant if I explain at this period the miserable appearance we -made, and the situation we were in, with the causes of it. - -When we left our interpreter and one man [Vasquez and Smith] on the -Arkansaw, we were obliged to carry all our baggage on our backs; -consequently, that which was the most useful was preferred to the few -ornamental parts of dress we possessed. The ammunition claimed our -first care; tools were secondary; leather, leggings, boots, and -mockinsons were the next in consideration. Consequently, I left all my -uniform, clothing, trunks, etc., as did the men, except what they had -on their backs; conceiving that which would secure the feet and legs -from the cold to be preferable to any less indispensable portion of -our dress. Thus, when we presented ourselves at Santa Fe, I was -dressed in a pair of blue trousers, mockinsons, blanket coat, and a -cap made of scarlet cloth lined with fox-skin; my poor fellows were in -leggings, breech cloths and leather coats, and there was not a hat in -the whole party. This appearance was extremely mortifying to us all, -especially as soldiers; although some of the officers used frequently -to observe to me, that "worth made the man," etc., with a variety of -adages to the same amount. Yet the first impression made on the -ignorant is hard to eradicate; and a greater proof cannot be given of -the ignorance of the common people, than their asking if we lived in -houses, or in camps like the Indians, and if we wore hats in our -country. Those observations are sufficient to show the impression our -uncouth appearance made amongst them. - -The dinner at the governor's was rather splendid, having a variety of -dishes and wines of the southern provinces; and when his Excellency -was a little warmed with the influence of cheering liquor, he became -very sociable. He informed me that there existed a serious difficulty -between the commandant-general of the internal provinces and the -Marquis Caso Calvo, who had given permission to Mr. [William] Dunbar -to explore the Ouchata [Washita], contrary to the general principles -of their government; in consequence of which the former had made -representations against the latter to the court of Madrid. After -dinner his Excellency ordered his coach; Captain D'Almansa, -Bartholomew, and myself entered with him, and he drove out three -miles. He was drawn by six mules and attended by a guard of cavalry. -When we parted his adieu was, "remember Allencaster, in peace or war." - -I left a note for my sergeant, with instructions to keep up good -discipline and not be alarmed or discouraged. As I was about leaving -the public square, poor Colly, the American prisoner, came up with -tears in his eyes, and hoped I would not forget him when I arrived in -the United States. - -After we left the governor we rode on about three miles to a defile, -where we halted for the troops. I soon found that the old soldier who -accompanied us and commanded our escort was fond of a drop of the -cheering liquor, as his boy carried a bottle in his cochmelies [read -cojinillos], a small leather case attached to the saddle for the -purpose of carrying small articles.[I'-11] We were accompanied by my -friend Bartholomew. We ascended a hill and galloped on until about ten -o'clock; it was snowing hard all the time. Then we came to a -precipice, which we descended with great difficulty, from the -obscurity of the night, to the small village,[I'-12] where we put up -in the quarters of the priest, he being absent. - -After supper, Captain D'Almansa related to me that he had served his -Catholic majesty 40 years to arrive at the rank he then held, which -was that of a first lieutenant in the line and a captain by brevet, -whilst he had seen various young Europeans promoted over his head. -After the old man had taken his _quantum sufficit_ and gone to sleep, -my friend and myself sat up for some hours, he explaining to me their -situation, the great desire they felt for a change of affairs and an -open trade with the United States. I pointed out to him with chalk on -the floor the geographical connection and route from North Mexico and -Louisiana, and finally gave him a certificate addressed to the -citizens of the United States, stating his friendly disposition and -his being a man of influence. This paper he seemed to estimate as a -very valuable acquisition, as he was decidedly of opinion we would -invade that country the ensuing spring; and not all my assurances to -the contrary could eradicate that idea. - -_Mar. 5th._ As it snowed very hard in the morning, we did not march -until eleven o'clock. In the meantime, Bartholomew and myself paid a -visit to an old invalid Spaniard, who received us in the most -hospitable manner, giving us chocolate, etc. He made many inquiries as -to our government and religion, and of [Bartholomew], who did not fail -to give them the brightest coloring; he being enthusiastic in their -favor from his many conversations with me, and drawing comparisons -with his own country. What appeared to the old veteran most -extraordinary was that we ever changed our president. I was obliged -to draw his powers on a nearer affinity with those of a monarch than -they really are, in order that they might comprehend his station and -that there was a perfect freedom of conscience permitted in our -country. He, however, expressed his warm approbation of the measure. -In the priest's house at which we put up were two orphan girls, who -were adopted by him in their infancy and at this time constituted his -whole family. - -I bid adieu to my friend Bartholomew, and could not avoid shedding -tears; he embraced me and all my men. - -We arrived at the village of St. Domingo[I'-13] at two o'clock. It is, -as I supposed, nine miles [to this place, which is situated] on the -east side of the Rio del Norte, and is a large village, the population -being about 1,000 natives, generally governed by its own chief. The -chiefs of the villages were distinguished by a cane with a silver head -and black tassel. On our arrival at the public house Captain D'Almansa -was waited on by the governor, cap in hand, to receive his orders as -to furnishing our quarters and ourselves with wood, water, provisions, -etc. The house itself contained nothing but bare walls and small -grated windows, which brought to my recollection the representations -of the Spanish inhabitants given by Dr. [John] Moore [the Scottish -writer, 1730-1802], in his travels through Spain, Italy, etc. This -village, as well as those of St. Philip's and St. Bartholomew, [San -Felipe and San Bartolome] is of the nation of Keres [or Queres] many -of whom do not yet speak good Spanish. - -After we had refreshed ourselves a little, the captain sent for the -keys of the church; and when we entered it, I was much astonished to -find, inclosed in mud-brick walls, many rich paintings, and the saint -(Domingo) as large as life, elegantly ornamented with gold and silver. -The captain made a slight inclination of the head, and intimated to me -that this was the patron of the village. We then ascended into the -gallery, where the choir are generally placed. In an outside hall was -placed another image of the saint, less richly ornamented, where the -populace repaired daily and knelt to return thanks for benefactions -received, or to ask new favors. Many young girls, indeed, chose the -time of our visit to be on their knees before the holy patron. From -the flat roof of the church we had a delightful view of the village; -the Rio del Norte [and Jemez mountains] on the west; the mountains of -St. Dies [San Diaz, _i. e._, Sandia] to the south; the valley round -the town, on which were numerous herds of goats, sheep, and -asses--upon the whole, this was one of the handsomest views in New -Mexico. - -_Mar. 6th._ Marched down the Rio del Norte on the east side. Snow one -foot deep. Passed large flocks of goats. At [opposite] the village of -St. Philip's [San Felipe[I'-14]] we crossed [the Rio Grande to the -town over] a bridge of eight arches, constructed as follows: the -pillars made of neat woodwork, something similar to a crate, and in -the form of a keel-boat, the sharp end or bow to the current; this -crate or butment was filled with stone, in which the river lodged -sand, clay, etc., until it had become of a tolerably firm consistency. -On the top of the pillars were laid pine logs, lengthways, squared on -two sides; being joined pretty close, these made a tolerable bridge -for horses, but would not have been very safe for carriages, as there -were no hand-rails. - -On our arrival at the house of the father, we were received in a very -polite and friendly manner; and before my departure we seemed to have -been friends for years past. During our dinner, at which we had a -variety of wines, we were entertained with music, composed of bass -drums, French horns, violins, and cymbals. We likewise entered into a -long and candid conversation as to the Creoles, wherein he spared -neither the government nor its administrators. As to government and -religion, Father Rubi displayed a liberality of opinion and a fund of -knowledge which astonished me. He showed me a statistical table on -which he had, in a regular manner, taken the whole province of New -Mexico by villages, beginning at Tous [Taos], on the northwest, and -ending with Valencia on the south, giving their latitude, longitude, -and population, whether natives or Spaniards, civilized or barbarous, -Christians or pagans, numbers, names of the nations, when converted, -how governed, military force, clergy, salary, etc.--in short, a -complete geographical, statistical, and historical sketch of the -province. Of this I wished to obtain a copy, but perceived that the -captain was somewhat surprised at its having been shown to me. When we -parted, we promised to write to each other, which I performed from -Chihuahua. - -Here was an old Indian who was extremely inquisitive to know if we -were Spaniards; to which an old gentleman called Don Francisco, who -appeared to be an inmate of Father Rubi's, replied in the affirmative. -"But," said the Indian, "they do not speak Castillian." "True," -replied the other; "but you are an Indian of the nation of Keres, are -you not?" "Yes." "Well, the Utahs are Indians also?" "Yes." "But still -you do not understand them, they speaking a different language." -"True," replied the Indian. "Well," said the old gentleman, "those -strangers are likewise Spaniards, but do not speak the same language -with us." This reasoning seemed to satisfy the poor savage; and I -could not but smile at the ingenuity displayed to make him believe -there was no other nation of whites but the Spaniards. - -Whilst at dinner, Father Rubi was informed that one of his -parishioners was at the point of death, and wished his attendance to -receive his confession. - -We took our departure, but were shortly after overtaken by our friend, -who, after giving me another hearty shake of the hand, left us. -Crossed the river and passed two small hamlets and houses on the road -to the village of St. Dies,[I'-15] opposite the mountain of the same -name, where we were received in a house of Father Rubi, this making -part of his domains. - -_Mar. 7th._ Marched at nine o'clock through a country better -cultivated and inhabited than any I had yet seen. Arrived at -Albuquerque,[I'-16] a village on the east side of the Rio del Norte. -We were received by Father Ambrosio Guerra in a very flattering -manner, and led into his hall. From thence, after taking some -refreshments, we went into an inner apartment, where he ordered his -adopted children of the female sex to appear. They came in by -turns--Indians of various nations, Spanish, French, and finally two -young girls, whom from their complexion I conceived to be English. On -perceiving I noticed them, he ordered the rest to retire, many of whom -were beautiful, and directed those to sit down on the sofa beside me. -Thus situated, he told me that they had been taken to the east by the -Tetaus and passed from one nation to another, until he purchased them, -at that time infants; they could recollect neither their names nor -language, but, concluding they were my countrywomen, he ordered them -to embrace me as a mark of their friendship, to which they appeared -nothing loath. We then sat down to dinner, which consisted of various -dishes, excellent wines, and, to crown all, we were waited on by half -a dozen of those beautiful girls who, like Hebe at the feast of the -gods, converted our wine to nectar, and with their ambrosial breath -shed incense on our cups. After the cloth was removed some time, the -priest beckoned me to follow him, and led me into his sanctum -sanctorum, where he had the rich and majestic images of various -saints, and in the midst the crucified Jesus, crowned with thorns, -with rich rays of golden glory surrounding his head--in short, the -room being hung with black silk curtains, served but to augment the -gloom and majesty of the scene. When he conceived my imagination -sufficiently wrought up, he put on a black gown and miter, kneeled -before the cross, took hold of my hand, and endeavored gently to pull -me down beside him. On my refusal, he prayed fervently for a few -minutes and then rose, laid his hands on my shoulders, and, as I -conceived, blessed me. He then said to me, "You will not be a -Christian. Oh! what a pity! oh! what a pity!" He then threw off his -robes, took me by the hand and led me out of the company smiling; but -the scene I had gone through had made too serious an impression on my -mind to be eradicated until we took our departure, which was in an -hour after, having received great marks of friendship from the -father. - -Both above and below Albuquerque, the citizens were beginning to open -canals, to let in the water of the river to fertilize the plains and -fields which border its banks on both sides; where we saw men, women, -and children, of all ages and sexes, at the joyful labor which was to -crown with rich abundance their future harvest and insure them plenty -for the ensuing year. Those scenes brought to my recollection the -bright descriptions given by Savary of the opening of the canals of -Egypt. The cultivation of the fields was commencing and everything -appeared to give life and gayety to the surrounding scenery. - -We crossed the Rio del Norte [at Atrisco[I'-17]], a little below the -village of Albuquerque, where it was 400 yards wide, but not more than -three feet deep and excellent fording. At Father Ambrosio's was the -only chart we saw in the province that gave the near connection of -the sources of the Rio del Norte and the Rio Colorado of California, -with their ramifications. - -On our arriving at the next village, a dependency of Father -Ambrosio's, we were invited into the house of the commandant. When I -entered, I saw a man sitting by the fire reading a book; with blooming -cheeks, fine complexion, and a genius-speaking eye, he arose from his -seat. It was Robinson! Not that Robinson who left my camp on the -headwaters of the Rio del Norte, pale, emaciated, with uncombed locks -and beard of eight months' growth, but with fire, unsubdued -enterprise, and fortitude. The change was indeed surprising. I started -back and exclaimed, "Robinson!" "Yes." "But I do not know you," I -replied. "But I know you," he exclaimed; "I would not be unknown to -you here, in this land of tyranny and oppression, to avoid all the -pains they dare to inflict. Yet, my friend, I grieve to see you here -and thus, for I presume you are a prisoner." I replied "No! I wear my -sword, you see; all my men have their arms, and the moment they dare -to ill-treat us we will surprise their guards in the night, carry off -some horses, make our way to Appaches, and then set them at defiance." - -At this moment Captain D'Almansa entered, and I introduced Robinson to -him as my _companion de voyage_ and friend, he having before seen him -at Santa Fe. He did not appear much surprised, and received him with a -significant smile, as much as to say, "I knew this." We then marched -out to the place where the soldiers were encamped, not one of whom -would recognize him, agreeably to orders, until I gave them the sign. -Then it was a joyful meeting, as the whole party was enthusiastically -fond of him. He gave me the following relation of his adventures after -he left me: - -"I marched the first day up the branch [Rio Conejos] on which we were -situated, as you know we had concluded it would be most proper to -follow it to its source and then cross the mountains [San Juan range] -west, where we had conceived we should find the Spanish settlements, -and at night encamped on its banks. The second day I left it a -little, bore more south, and was getting up the side of the mountain, -when I discovered two Indians, for whom I made. They were armed with -bows and arrows, and were extremely shy of my approach; but after some -time, confidence being somewhat restored, I signified a wish to go to -Santa Fe, when they pointed due south, down the river I left you on. -As I could not believe them, I reiterated the inquiry and received the -same reply. I then concluded that we had been deceived, and that you -were on the Rio del Norte, instead of the Red river. I was embarrassed -whether I should not immediately return to apprise you of it; but -concluded it to be too late, as I was discovered by the Indians, whom -if I had not met, or some others, I should have continued on, crossed -the mountains to the waters of the Colorado, and descended these, -until from their course I should have discovered my mistake. I -therefore offered them some presents to conduct me in; they agreed, -conducted me to the camp where their women were, and in about five -minutes we were on our march. That night we encamped in the woods; I -slept very little, owing to my distrust of my companions. The next -day, at three o'clock, we arrived at the village of Aqua Caliente, -where I was immediately taken into the house of the commandant, and -expresses were dispatched to Santa Fe. That night I was put to sleep -on a mattress on the floor. The next day we departed early, leaving my -arms and baggage at the commandant's, he promising to have them -forwarded to me at the city. On our arrival at Santa Fe, the governor -received me with great austerity at first, entered into an examination -of my business, and took possession of all my papers. After all this -was explained, he ordered me to a room where the officers were -confined when under an arrest, and a non-commissioned officer to -attend me when I walked out into the city, which I had free permission -to do. I was supplied with provisions from the governor's table, who -had promised he would write to Baptiste Lalande to come down and -answer to the claim I had against him; whose circumstance I had -apprised myself of. The second day the governor sent for me, and -informed me that he had made inquiry as to the abilities of Lalande to -discharge the debt, and found that he possessed no property; but that -at some future period he would secure the money for me. To this I made -a spirited remonstrance, as an infringement of our treaties and a -protection of a refugee citizen of the United States against his -creditors. But it had no other effect than to obtain me an invitation -to dinner, and rather more respectful treatment than I had hitherto -received from his Excellency; who, being slightly afflicted with -dropsy, requested my advice as to his case. For this I prescribed a -regimen and mode of treatment which happened to differ from the one -adopted by a monk and practicing physician of the place, and thus -brought on me his enmity and ill offices. The ensuing day I was -ordered by the governor to hold myself in readiness to proceed to the -internal parts of the country, to which I agreed; determining not to -leave the country in a clandestine manner, unless they attempted to -treat me with indignity or hardship; and conceiving it in my power to -join you on your retreat, or find Red river and descend it, should you -not be brought in; but, in that case, to share your destiny. Added to -this I felt a desire to see more of the country, for which purpose I -was willing to run the risk of future consequences. We marched the -ensuing day, I having been equipped by my friend with some small -articles of which I stood in need, such as I would receive out of the -numerous offers of his country. The fourth day I arrived at the -village of St. Fernandez, where I was received and taken charge of by -Lieutenant Don Faciendo Malgares, who commanded the expedition to the -Pawnees, and whom you will find a gentleman, a soldier, and one of the -most gallant men you ever knew. With him I could no longer keep up the -disguise, and when he informed me, two days since, that you were on -the way in, I confessed to him that I belonged to your party. We have -ever since been anticipating the pleasure we three will enjoy in our -journey to Chihuahua; for he is to command the escort, his dragoons -being now encamped in the field, awaiting your arrival. Since I have -been with him I have practiced physic in the country in order to have -an opportunity of examining the manners, customs, etc., of the people, -to endeavor to ascertain their political and religious feelings, and -to gain every other species of information which would be necessary to -our country or ourselves. I am now here, on a visit to this man's -wife, attended by a corporal of dragoons as a guard, who answers very -well as a waiter, guide, etc., in my excursions through the country; -but I will immediately return with you to Malgares." - -Thus ended Robinson's relation, and I in return related what had -occurred to the party and myself. We agreed upon our future line of -conduct, and then joined my old captain in the house. He had been -persuaded to tarry all night, provided it was agreeable to me, as our -host wished Robinson to remain until the next day. With this -proposition I complied, in order that Robinson and myself might have a -further discussion before we joined Malgares, who I suspected would -watch us closely. The troops proceeded to the village of Tousac that -evening. - -_Sunday, Mar. 8th._ Marched after taking breakfast and halted at a -little village, three miles distant, called Tousac,[I'-18] situated on -the west side of the Rio del Norte. The men informed me that, on their -arrival over night, they had all been furnished with an excellent -supper; and after supper, wine and a violin, with a collection of the -young people to a dance. When we left this village the priest sent a -cart down to carry us over, as the river was nearly four feet deep. -When we approached the village of St. Fernandez[I'-19] we were met by -Lieutenant Malgares, accompanied by two or three other officers; he -received with the most manly frankness and the politeness of a man of -the world. Yet my feelings were such as almost overpowered me, and -obliged me to ride by myself for a short period in order to recover -myself. Those sensations arose from my knowledge that he had been -absent from Chihuahua ten months, and it had cost the king of Spain -more than $10,000 to effect that [capture of myself and party] which a -mere accident and the deception of the governor had accomplished. - -Malgares, finding I did not feel myself at ease, took every means in -his power to banish my reserve, which made it impossible on my part -not to endeavor to appear cheerful. We conversed as well as we could, -and in two hours were as well acquainted as some people would be in -the same number of months. Malgares possessed none of the haughty -Castillian pride, but much of the urbanity of a Frenchman; and I will -add my feeble testimony to his loyalty, by declaring that he was one -of the few officers or citizens whom I found who were loyal to their -king, who felt indignant at the degraded state of the Spanish -monarchy, and who deprecated a revolution or separation of Spanish -America from the mother country, unless France should usurp the -government of Spain. These are the men who possess the heads to plan, -the hearts to feel, and the hands to carry this great and important -work into execution. In the afternoon our friend wrote the following -notification to the alcaldes of several small villages around us: - - "Send this evening six or eight of your handsomest young - girls to the village of St. Fernandez, where I propose - giving a fandango, for the entertainment of the American - officers arrived this day. - - "[Signed] DON FACIENDO." - -This order was punctually obeyed, and portrays more clearly than a -chapter of observations the degraded state of the common people. In -the evening, when the company arrived, the ball began after their -usual manner, and there was really a handsome display of beauty. - -It will be proper to mention here, that when my small paper trunk was -brought in, Lt. Malgares struck his foot against it, and said: "The -governor informs me this is a prisoner of war, or that I have charge -of it; but, sir, only assure me that you will hold the papers therein -contained sacred, and I will have nothing to do with it." I bowed -assent; and I will only add that the condition was scrupulously -adhered to, as I was bound by every tie of military and national -honor, and, let me add, gratitude, not to abuse his high confidence in -the honor of a soldier. He further added that "Robinson being now -acknowledged as one of your party, I shall withdraw his guard and -consider him as under your parole of honor." Those various marks of -politeness and friendship caused me to endeavor to evince to my -brother soldier that we were capable of appreciating his honorable -conduct toward us. - -_Mar. 9th._ The troops marched about ten o'clock. Lt. Malgares and -myself accompanied Captain D'Almansa about three miles back on his -route to Santa Fe, to the house of a citizen, where we dined; after -which we separated. I wrote by the captain to the governor in French, -and to Father Rubi in English. D'Almansa presented me with his cap and -whip, and gave me a letter of recommendation to an officer at -Chihuahua. We returned to our quarters and, being joined by our -waiters, commenced our route. - -Passed a village called St. Thomas [San Tomas, or Tome[I'-20]], one -mile distant from camp. The camp was formed in an ellipsis, the two -long sides presenting a breastwork formed of the saddles and heads of -the mules, each end of the ellipsis having a small opening to pass and -repass at; in the center was the commandant's tent. Thus, in case of -an attack on the camp, there were ready-formed works to fight from. -Malgares' mode of living was superior to anything we have an idea of -in our army; having eight mules loaded with his common camp equipage, -wines, confectionery, etc. But this only served to evince the -corruption of Spanish discipline; for, if a subaltern indulged himself -with such a quantity of baggage, what would be the cavalcade attending -an army? Dr. Robinson had been called over the river to a small -village to see a sick woman, and did not return that night. Distance -12 miles. - -_Mar. 10th._ Marched at eight o'clock, and arrived at the village -Sibilleta; passed on the way the village of Sabinez on the west side, -and Naxales, on the same [W.] side, Sibilleta[I'-21] is situated on -the east side, and is a regular square, appearing like a large mud -wall on the outside, the doors, windows, etc., facing the square; it -is the neatest and most regular village I have yet seen, and is -governed by a sergeant, at whose quarters I put up. - -_Mar. 11th._ Marched at eleven o'clock; came 12 miles[I'-22] and -encamped, the troops having preceded us. Lieutenant Malgares, not -being well, took medicine. The village we stayed at last night being -the last, we entered the wilderness and the road became rough, small -hills running into the river, making valleys; but the bottoms appear -richer than those more to the north. - -_Mar. 12th._ Marched at seven o'clock; passed, on the west side of the -river, the mountains of Magdalen, and the Black mountains on the -east.[I'-23] Passed the encampment of a caravan going out with about -15,000 sheep from the other provinces, from which they bring back -merchandise. This expedition consisted of about 300 men, chiefly -citizens, escorted by an officer and 35 or 40 troops; they are -collected at Sibilleta and separate there on their return. They go out -in February and return in March; a similar expedition goes out in the -autumn, but during the other parts of the year no citizen travels the -road, the couriers excepted. At the pass [El Paso] of the Rio del -Norte they meet and exchange packets, when both return to their own -provinces. Met a caravan of 50 men and probably 200 horses, loaded -with goods for New Mexico. Halted at twelve o'clock and marched at -three. Lt. Malgares showed me the place where he had been in two -affairs with the Appaches; one he commanded himself, and the other was -commanded by Captain D'Almansa; in the former there were one Spaniard -killed, eight wounded, and 10 Appaches made prisoners; in the latter -52 Appaches were wounded and 17 killed, they being surprised in the -night. Malgares killed two himself, and had two horses killed under -him. - -_Mar. 13th._ Marched at seven o'clock; saw many deer. Halted at eleven -o'clock and marched at four o'clock.[I'-24] - -This day one of our horses threw a young woman and ran off, as is the -habit of all Spanish horses, if by chance they throw their rider; many -of the dragoons and Malgares pursued him. Being mounted on an elegant -horse of Malgares', I joined in the chase, and notwithstanding their -superior horsemanship overtook the horse, caught his bridle, and -stopped him, when both of the horses were nearly at full speed. This -act procured me the applause of the Spanish dragoons, and it is -astonishing how much it operated on their good will. - -_Mar. 14th._ Marched at ten o'clock, and halted at a mountain ["of the -Friar Christopher," p. 639, _i. e._, Fra Cristobal]; distance 10 -miles.[I'-25] This is the point from which the road leaves the river -for two days' journey bearing due south, the river here taking a turn -southwest; by the river it is five days to where the roads meet. We -marched at four o'clock, and eight miles below crossed the river to -the west side; two mules fell in the water. Unfortunately, they -carried the stores of Lieutenant Malgares, by which means we lost all -our bread, an elegant assortment of biscuits, etc. Distance 18 miles. - -_Sunday, Mar. 15th._ Marched at half past ten o'clock. Made 28 miles, -the route rough and stony; course S. 20 deg. W.[I'-26] - -_Mar. 16th._ Marched at seven o'clock, and halted at twelve. Passed on -the east side the Horse mountain, and the Mountain of the Dead.[I'-27] -Came on a trail of the appearance of 200 horses, supposed to be the -trail of an expedition from the province of Biscay, against the -Indians. - -_Mar. 17th._ Marched at ten o'clock, and at four in the afternoon -crossed the river to the east side; saw several fresh Indian tracks; -also, the trail of a large party of horses, supposed to be Spanish -troops in pursuit of the Indians. Marched down the river 26 -miles;[I'-28] fresh sign of Indians, also of a party of horses. -Country mountainous on both sides of the river. - -_Mar. 18th._ Marched down the river 26 miles;[I'-29] fresh sign of -Indians, also of a party of horses. Country mountainous on both sides -of the river. - -_Mar. 19th._ Struck out east about three miles and fell in with the main -road [continuing from the Jornada del Muerto], on a large flat prairie, -which we left at the mountain of the Friar Christopher.[I'-30] - -_Mar. 20th._ Halted at ten o'clock, at a salt lake. Marched until two -o'clock; halted for the day.[I'-31] Vegetation began to be -discoverable on the 17th, and this day the weeds and grass were quite -high. - -_Mar. 21st._ Marched in the morning and arrived at the passo [El -Paso[I'-32]] del Norte at eleven o'clock, the road leading through a -hilly and mountainous country. We put up at the house of Don -Francisco Garcia, who was a merchant and a planter; he possessed in -the vicinity of the town 20,000 sheep and 1,000 cows. We were -received in a most hospitable manner by Don Pedro Roderique Rey, the -lieutenant-governor, and Father Joseph Prado, the vicar of the place. -This was by far the most flourishing place we had been in. For a more -particular account of its situation, population, etc., see Appendix to -Part III. [now Chap. IV.]. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[I'-1] The Mexican Tour trips at the start with misstatements which -must have puzzled many a reader, as they did the present editor. -Reference to p. 510 will show that yesterday, Feb. 26th, Pike "went up -the river about 12 miles." He does not say _what_ river; but as he -was on the Conejos, we naturally take that to be the one he ascended -that day--and we are right. But to-day he speaks of "ascending the Rio -del Norte five miles _more_," implying that yesterday's march was up -this river, as to-day's is said to be. Then we are confronted by the -statement that to-day's course is "S. 60 deg. W."--a direction in which it -is impossible to ascend the Rio del Norte to any distance. The -difficulty vanishes at once, if for "Rio del Norte" we read _Rio -Conejos_. This emendation is confirmed by Pike's map, which -contradicts the above text, showing no detour up the Rio Grande; the -dotted trail goes from the stockade directly up Rio Conejos, to a -point on its N. or left bank marked "1st. Camp"--_i. e._, the "place -of deposit" to which the Spaniards took him on the 26th. This place, -where the Spaniards had established themselves when they sent for -Pike, was on the direct road by which they had come from Santa Fe, and -not far from the present town of Conejos, though probably somewhat -further down the river of that name. The road which now crosses the -river at the town holds the course of a trail which ran N. to the -Saguache mts. and through Cochetope Pass to the Gunnison and Grand -rivers, and so on. This was formerly much used by the Utes en route to -Santa Fe, and was no doubt in existence in 1807. Conejos, seat of the -county so named, is a very well-known place on the river, in the -plain between the San Luis hills on the E. and the foothills of the -San Juan range on the W.; it is directly under Prospect Peak (9,900 -feet; air-line 8 m.). Roads concenter here from various directions; -that hence to Fort Garland, 351/4 m. N. E., crosses the place where Pike -had his stockade; that S. W. to old Fort Lowell is 491/2 m. Some small -places in the vicinity of Conejos are called Guadalupe, Servilleta, -San Rafael, San Jose, and Brazos. The route pursued hence is the old -main road S. down the Rio Grande, but at a considerable distance W. of -that river for the present (along long. 106 deg. W. nearly). - -[I'-2] Soon after leaving Conejos the party crossed Rio San Antonio, -or San Antonio cr. (the main branch of Rio Conejos), below the -confluence of Los Pinos cr., past places of both these names, and at -lat. 37 deg. N. went from the present State of Colorado into the present -Territory of New Mexico. This river heads E. of the Tierra Amarilla, -in the mountain range of which Brazos Peak, over 11,000 feet, is a -conspicuous elevation. The most notable feature of the day is Cerro -San Antonio, nearly 11,000 feet high, standing out from the range. -They skirted its E. base, among the hills of which Pike speaks, -between it and the Buffalo buttes, as the D. and R. G. R. R. now does, -and where is the station Volcano. S. W. of the peak are the Ortiz -hills. Camp was set at or near the present station Tres Piedras (Three -Rocks). - -[I'-3] Or Rio Caliente, as the name of the stream is now usually -rendered. This is formed by various tributaries from the N. and N. W. -(Rita Servilleta, Vallecita, etc.), and joins the Rio Chama from the -W., about 5 m. above their common entrance into the Rio Grande opp. -San Juan. There are various other hot or warm springs than the one at -which Pike stopped, and this one is 10 m. or so W. of the railroad -station called Ojo Caliente. At various points near the Rio Grande, -at a considerable distance to Pike's left, are numerous isolated -elevations, some of which are Cerros Olla, Chifle, Montoso, -Cristobal, Taoses, and Orejas. Since Pike entered New Mexico, on -crossing lat. 37 deg. on the 28th, his route has been practically along -the W. border of Taos Co., so named from the well-known Tanoan pueblo -or town of Taos, frequently mentioned by him as Tons, Tous, Toas, -etc., as his printer happened to fancy, while his engraver made it -"Yaos" on the map of New Spain. This is on a branch of Taos cr.; when -Pike passes its latitude to-day, he is about 20 m. W. of it. Some -places passed along Caliente cr., to his right, are Petaca, -Servilleta, and Cueva Springs. The name Taos has several different -implications: for a river, Rio de Taos; for the country through which -this river flows; for a town at the junction of its principal forks, -otherwise San Fernandez; for a place 3 m. S. E. of this, Rancho de -Taos; and for another place about the same distance N. E., Pueblo de -Taos. San Fernandez de Taos was a Mexican adobe town, which had some -600-800 pop. in 1846, and was the capital of the Department of Taos. -The old Indian pueblo of Taos, to which the insurgents had retreated -Jan. 7th, 1847, after the skirmishes of Canada and Embuda, became -noted during the war as the scene of a bloody siege and capture: see -Ex. Doc. No. 41, 30th Cong., 1st Sess., pub. 1848, p. 457. - -In approaching the subject of the New Mexican Pueblo Indians it is -necessary at the outset to free the mind from the traditional error -that because these live in towns known as "pueblos," therefore they -are one kind of Indians. I shall recur to the subject in a later -connection. Here I wish to cite an early instance of the recognition -of an all-important ethnological fact on the part of Lieutenant James -H. Simpson, U. S. T. E., whose interesting Journal of a Military -Reconnaissance from Santa Fe, New Mexico, to the Navajo country, etc., -in 1849, was published in 1850 as one of the collection of papers -forming Ex. Doc. No. 64, 31st Congr., 1st Sess., 8vo, Washington, pp. -56-168, many pll. and maps. He speaks on p. 57 of "the singular and, -as I believe, the hitherto unknown fact ... that among the 10,000 -(estimated) Pueblo Indians who inhabit New Mexico, as many as _six_ -distinct dialects obtain, no one showing anything more than the -faintest, if any, indications of a cognate origin with the other." He -sharply but justly brings to book the English author Ruxton, for the -grossly erroneous statement (Mex. and the R. Mts., p. 194) that "the -Indians of northern Mexico, including the Pueblos, belong to the same -family--the Apache.... All these speak dialects of the same language, -more or less approximating to the Apache, and of all of which the -idiomatic structure is the the same." A statement more at variance -from the facts in the case could hardly be penned. Those Pueblo -Indians whom Pike now or presently meets represent two distinct -linguistic families, the Keresan and the Tanoan; and we shall have -several others to note in due course. The influence of the church upon -the pueblo system has of course not escaped well-informed -ethnographers, but I suspect they have not always given it full credit -for the hand it had in first founding, then maintaining in misery, and -finally fetching to grief, some of these sorry settlements of -inoffensive Indians, who had escaped the Apaches on one side and the -Navajos on the other, to be herded about some mud joss-house and -fleeced as fast as they acquired any substance worth stealing. The -business began early, and the way of it is something of a historical -curiosity. A man named Alessandro Farnese--the one who was pope -1534-49, and who undertook to regulate the morals of various persons, -besides Henry VIII., with indifferent success--once made a discovery -so astonishing that he must have been inspired. Papa Paulo III. -promptly published his find in a bull which was only saved from being -Irish by the fact that it was Latin: for this ethnological -pronunciamento a todos los fieles cristianos, que las presentes letras -vieren declared in due and solemn form que los indios son hombres y -capaces de sacramentos--_i. e._, told all the faithful to whom this -exquisite tomfoolery came that Indians were human and could be -humbugged. That was June 9th, 1537, and that settled it--the hint was -enough to set upon the savages the horde of corrupt, profligate, and -extortionate ecclesiastics who have cursed the country from that day -to this. The first business of these people was always to build a -church in which to brandish the crucifix at those who had escaped the -tomahawk, and pray for the souls of those whose superstitions were -thus played upon while their property was preyed upon--for churches -cannot be built and priests supported unless somebody sweats for it. I -hardly think that Indians thus huddled around a church, in abject -terror alike of their natural and their supernatural enemies, outside -and inside the pueblo, were any better off for self-defense than they -would have been had they been left to their natural resources--though -many have so fancied; for the numerical strength of such an -aggregation would have been just as effective without that edifice, -and tame Indians are no match for wild ones. The process of converting -an Indian to Christianity simply mixes his metaphors and muddles his -mind, by substituting for the superstitions he thinks he understands -other mysteries which the priests themselves declare to be -incomprehensible. The advantage of this to the Indian is not easily -discerned, and some of its disadvantages are obvious. For example, the -priests are responsible for a considerable amount of fornication and -foeticide--I do not mean so much by their personal habits as by their -keeping so many of their parishioners too poor to pay for marriages -and baptisms. By the year 1680, the papal plan and the church method -had worked so well that the converted Indians undertook to prove -themselves men, capable of the very real sacrament of manhood; for -they revolted against the intolerable yoke, killed a great many of -their oppressors, and drove these ill-omened birds of prey from their -repast for a while. - -[I'-4] Pike joins Rio Caliente with the Chama (Conejos in the text, by -error) too near Ojo Caliente and too far from San Juan, but the sum of -his figures is about right. Rio Caliente does not seem to be as well -populated now as it was in his day; Los Gallegos is a present place on -this stream. The confluence of the two is at the point of a butte, -with the Black mesa immediately to the left or E.; some of the present -places thence to the Rio Grande are Cuchilla, Chili, and San Jose, all -on the W. side of Rio Chama, off his route, and not noted by him; the -site of Chama itself was on the other side, near the mouth. The St. -John's of the text, charted "S^n Juan 1000," is the Tanoan pueblo San -Juan, pop. now 400. He crosses to this place on the E. side of the Rio -Grande, where there was a ford or ferry; the railroad crosses there -now, at Espanola. - -[I'-5] I have not succeeded in identifying Baptiste Lalande. One -Alexis Lalande (his [Symbol: X] mark) appears among signers of a -document executed at St. Louis, Oct. 30th, 1819; and on Sept. 16th, -1809, the same was one of a jury that convicted John Long of murdering -one George Gordon the previous June 26th; and Alexis subsequently -swore he neither spoke nor knew English. The William Morrison of the -same paragraph is easily discovered. He was the oldest one of several -brothers who came from Doylestown, Bucks Co., Pa.; had been associated -with his uncle, Guy Bryan, in business in Philada.; came to Kaskaskia -about 1785, and became prominent as a merchant there, in Cahokia, and -in St. Louis; married (1) a lady of Illinois; (2) in 1813, a daughter -of General Daniel Bissell, U. S. A.; died 1837, at Kaskaskia; was -grandfather of Hon. William R. Morrison. (Billon's Annals, 1804-1821, -pub. 1888, p. 219.) - -[I'-6] In the orig. ed. this paragraph appears as Doc. No. 7, p. 69, -of the App. to Pt. 3, to which Pike refers the reader by a footnote. -But as it is out of place there, and also so short, I simply run it -into the present and proper context. - -[I'-7] The defective itinerary of Mar. 3d requires attention. We see -that Pike crossed the river to San Juan, whence he goes down the E. -side to Santa Fe. But first for the places he marks on the W. side -within the distance to Santa Fe, and which are: 1. Abicu, pop. 500; 2. -Cia, pop. 450; and 3. Gomez, pop. 500. 1. Abicu is marked as if it -stood near the mouth of Rio Chama, in the vicinity of present San -Antonio and San Jose; but its exact location is not difficult to -discover. For this is the town now called Abiquiu, 20 m. by the road -up the Rio Chama from the Rio Grande, on the S. side of the Chama, at -the mouth of Frijoles (Beans) cr. It is on the long and well-known -trail which led up the valley of the Chama and so on over the -mountains en route to Los Angeles, Cal. 2. Cia or Sia is a Keresan -pueblo, with a present pop. of about 100. 3. Gomez is the Tanoan -pueblo Jemez, misplaced too near the Rio Grande: see note beyond for -this and for Cia. The Jemez trail from San Ildefonso passes the ruins -of an old pueblo (called by the Spanish equivalent Pueblo Viejo), on -the edge of the mesa, say 11/2 m. W. of the Rio Grande and 5 m. S. W. of -San Ildefonso. There is also within this distance the Tanoan pueblo of -Santa Clara, with a present pop. of over 200, on the W. side of the -Rio Grande, a mile below the mouth of Santa Clara cr. From San Juan to -Santa Fe there are or were two roads; a lower, which hugs the Rio -Grande for some distance before it turns away from the river, and an -upper, more direct course, probably that which Pike took. In either -case, he crossed the two small streams or arroyos now known as Canada -and Nambe. Along his route he passed three villages, which are marked -on the map and mentioned without name in the text. 1. The first of -these, Santa Cruz, 5 or 6 m. from San Juan, is marked on the map -"Village 1200"; in 1846 it had only 300 or 400. It is situated on the -Canada near its mouth; higher up on the same are the Chimayo -settlements and Potrero. 2. The next, 71/4 m. further, mapped as -"Village 600," is Pojoaque or Pojuaque, a Tanoan pueblo situated about -6 m. up Nambe cr. At the mouth of this stream stood and stands another -Tanoan pueblo, San Ildefonso; while Nambe, yet another village of the -same family, was located on the same creek about 3 m. above Pojoaque. -These have all declined during the century, the Indian pop. of -Pojoaque being lately given as 20, that of San Ildefonso 148, that of -Nambe 79. 3. The next village, "17 m." further, marked on the map -"Village 600," is Tesuque (Tesugue, Zesuqua, etc.), likewise a Tanoan -pueblo, now of less than 100 Indians. There appear to have been two -establishments of this name, 3 or 4 m. apart, both on a branch of -Nambe cr.; the furthest on, falling in best with Pike's 17 m. from -Pojoaque, is only some 6 m. from Santa Fe. Between Pojoaque and -Tesuque Pike passed by Cuyamanque or Cuyamunge: and he entered Santa -Fe from the N., by the site of old Fort Marcy. - -It should be particularly observed in this place that Pike has _two_ -maps of this part of the Rio Grande, which are discrepant in several -material respects. One is his Louisiana map, which he runs down to -take in the Rio Grande to Santa Fe. On this his trail is dotted as if -it were the lower one, hugging the Rio Grande from Santa Cruz past -Santa Clara (and Polvaredo) to San Ildefonso, before it turned off to -Santa Fe, and with the above three villages all on his left as he -passed; the above village of Abicu is lettered Abricu, and a certain -village of "Pino" is set at the mouth of Rio Santa Fe. I have here -gone by his New Spain map, which may be presumed to be his best -delineation of Rio Grande country, and which certainly fits in best -with the text which we here follow. - -To finish reckoning the towns Pike maps north of Santa Fe, we must -note the following: 1. "Enbudo 500" on both maps. 2. "Tranpa 450" on -one map, and "Tramha 450" on the other. 3. "Pecucio 500" on one map, -and "Pecucis 500" on the other. These places all lie off to the N. E., -in the direction of Taos. 1. Embudo or Embuda is a town on a creek of -the same name, which makes into the Rio Grande from the E., about 25 -m. by the road from San Juan. The location is a couple of miles above -the mouth of the creek, which falls into the Rio Grande at a place -called Rinconada on account of its cornered or shut-in site among the -surrounding mesas. It is near the scene of an engagement in Jan., -1847, when Captain John H. K. Burgwin of the 1st U. S. Dragoons -defeated the insurgents; he died Feb. 7th of wounds received Feb. 4th -in the assault on Taos. 2. Trampas is a town on the creek of that -name, a main tributary of the Embudo, 8 or 10 m. above the town of -Embudo. You pass Trampas about halfway on the main upper road from -Santa Fe to Taos, about 7 m. N. of Truchas. 3. Picuris is an old -Tanoan pueblo, on another branch of this same Embudo cr., with a -present pop. of 100. - -All the foregoing places are under the shadow of the lofty mountains -to the E., whence the several streams named also make down into the -Rio Grande valley. Some of their peaks are: Lake, 12,400 feet; Baldy, -12,600 feet; the Cone, 12,700 feet; Truches, 13,100 feet; and the more -isolated "U. S." mountain, 10,700 feet. On the other side of this -range are the headwaters of Rio Canada--that great fork of the -Arkansaw better known as the "Canadian" r., without the _tilde_: see -note 17, p. 558. - -[I'-8] Santa Fe is not "on the Rio Grande," as often loosely said, but -at least 20 m. (direct) E. of that river, and considerably further -than this up from the mouth of the small stream on which it is -situated, in a rather out-of-the-way place. This creek, Rio de Santa -Fe, or Rio Chacito, comes down from the lofty Santa Fe mts. under -which the town nestles, and runs with a general S. W. course into the -Rio Grande between the town of Pena Blanca and the old pueblo of -Cochiti--places 3 m. apart. Cochiti is a Keresan pueblo on the W. bank -of the Rio Grande; present pop. perhaps 250. Pena Blanca, often called -Pina Blanca, on the E. bank, is a place where the Rio Grande can be -forded, to take the old road from Santa Fe to Fort Wingate. - -Santa Fe was first entered and occupied by the Army of the West under -General Stephen Watts Kearny, Aug. 18th, 1846--his cowardly Excellency -Don Manuel Armijo having blustered and promptly evacuated the place on -the approach of our forces. The site of Fort Marcy was selected by -Lieutenants W. H. Emory and J. F. Gilmer, in a commanding position 600 -yards from the plaza of the town, and the work began on the 23d. On -Sept. 22d General Kearny issued his manifesto for the government of -New Mexico, under the authority of the President of the United States; -appointing as governor Charles Bent (soon afterward cruelly massacred -at Taos), and as secretary Donaciano Vigil; other territorial officers -appointed were Richard Dallum, Francis P. Blair, Charles Blummer, -Eugene Lertensdorfer, Joab Houghton, Antonio Jose Otero, and Carl -Bavbien--the last three as judges of the supreme court. A copy of the -original document, in Spanish, is given in Lieutenant J. W. Abert's -report Ex. Doc. No. 41, 30th Cong., 1st Sess., pub. 1848, p. 453. The -population of Santa Fe at that time was somewhere about 3,000; it is -now only a little over 6,000. It was probably the site of a pueblo -before 1500; but the present town has no authentic history back of -1608, when it was founded by Juan de Onate as a capital or seat of -government. The town may boast an unbroken record as such from that -day to this, in spite of changing hands several times. - -[I'-9] Lieutenant J. W. Abert supposes that these were those long -known as the parroquia or parish church, and the capilla de los -soldados or military chapel: Ex. Doc. No. 41, 30th Cong., 1st Sess., -pub. 1848, p. 454, where an account of them and services held in them, -as these were in 1846, may be read. A plate shows the parish church, -with "Fort Marez" (Marcy) in the distance. - -[I'-10] The governor's certificate and Pike's remonstrance, here in -mention, were given in the App. to Pt. 3, of which they formed Docs. -Nos. 9 and 8, and will be found in due course, beyond. - -[I'-11] Pike has the thing all right, but under a curious name I never -saw elsewhere, and might not have recognized, had I not happened to -hear _cojinillo_ myself in New Mexico. This word is probably -provincial or dialectal, as it is not found in ordinary Sp. -dictionaries; in form it is a diminutive of _cojin_, name of a certain -saddle-pad or cushion, precisely equivalent to E. "pillion." It turns -up now and then in books about Mexico, as for example: "The _corazas_ -[covers] of travelling saddles are also provided with several pockets -called _coginillos_--a most excellent contrivance for carrying a lunch -or a bottle, or anything to which convenient access may be desired," -Gregg, Comm. Pra., I. 1844, p. 214. - -[I'-12] Marked "Vitior 200" on Pike's map. I do not recognize this -name, but it is easy to pick out Pike's road to San Domingo, which he -reaches to-morrow, and locate his Vitior at or within a mile of a -place on the Rio Santa Fe now called La Bajada, which is 73/4 m. from -San Domingo. In starting from Santa Fe for the Rio Grande at this -point, you do not follow down the creek (Rio de Santa Fe or Rio -Chacito), but bear away from it on higher ground between it and Arroyo -Hondo, pass a little place called Agua Fria, and then have a choice of -two roads. One of these bears off more to the left, and strikes the -creek at the hamlet of Cieneguilla, whence you follow the creek in the -canyon to La Bajada; but the straighter road keeps on S. W., crosses -the creek higher up, cuts across the mesa south of Tetilla Peak, and -suddenly pitches down into the creek at the mouth of the canyon, where -La Bajada is situated. This is what I suppose Pike means by saying he -ascended a hill and then descended a precipice. If he went that way, -he rode 15 m. from Santa Fe to "Vitior" or La Bajada. (See Vitior in -Index.) - -[I'-13] Present Santo Domingo, or San Domingo, is at the mouth of -Galisteo cr., with the pueblo immediately below it, on the E. bank of -the Rio Grande, 4 or 5 m. below Pena Blanca. Pike charts it by name, -and lays down this creek. The plate opp. p. 462 of Lieutenant Abert's -report shows the pueblo as it was in 1846. Part of the road from Santa -Fe to San Domingo was bad, on account of the rocks in the canyon of the -little stream, and the sandy dunes near the pueblo. On getting out of -the canyon onto the plain, Pike had on his left the Sandia range, while -ahead, but somewhat to the right, rose the Jemez mts. The Galisteo was -probably quite dry. There were no trees to be seen till the cottonwood -fringe of the Rio Grande came into view. The pueblo did not vary much -for a century. It had about 800 pop. when I passed through in 1864; a -very recent census yielded 690. As Pike says, these Indians are "of -the nation of Keres," _i. e._, of the Keresan family. Had he taken the -ford across the Rio Grande, which was used here at times when the -water was not more than three or four feet deep, though 300 yards -wide, and gone westward about 26 m. to the Rio Jemez, he would have -come upon the Tanoan town of Jemez, a dead-alive little place, which -has held its population of 400 or 500 for many generations, and long -sustained its old adobe church. Twelve miles above Jemez, at a place -on the river called Ojos Calientes from its hot springs, were and may -still be seen the ruins of another church, a view of which, as they -appeared in 1849, is given on pl. 15 of Simpson's report already -cited. Jemez is the place Pike means by the "Gomez 300" which he -charts; only it is located too near the Rio Grande on his map. (See -Santo Domingo in Index.) - -[I'-14] Marked "S^n. Philip de queres 1000" on the map, on the W. side -of the Rio Grande. This is the pueblo of San Felipe, situated 7 m. S. -of San Domingo, opp. the mouth of Tuerto cr., which falls in from the -E., a little below the gulch or ravine called Arroyo del Espinazo. The -town of Covero, or Cubero, is 5 m. above, on the same (W.) side of the -Rio Grande. The large stream which Pike lays down on that side, just -below his St. Philip's, is the Rio Jemez, which falls in between -Algodones and Bernalillo. The word "queres" of the map is the same as -Keres of the above text; _i. e._, San Felipe is a town of the Keresan -nation. The place is on the W. side of the Rio Grande, which here -straitens to 100 yards or so, about 6 m. above Algodones. Pike's town -was no doubt the _present_ San Felipe--the one at the foot of the -mesa, and not that commonly called old San Felipe, about a mile off, -upon the edge of the mesa; for this was in ruins half a century if not -a century ago, and the pueblos are all slow to change, either for -better or worse. It has taken nearly 100 years to reduce San Felipe -from the population which Pike estimated at 1000 to the 550 of a very -recent census. It has been more Mexicanized than some of the other -Indian towns. Lieutenant Abert, speaking of the bridge which Pike -mentions, says that when he was there, Oct. 10th, 1846, it had been -entirely swept away, and the people had to ford the Rio Grande. The -plate opp. p. 461 of his report shows some of them in the act. Another -view of San Felipe is given in the same volume, opp. p. 39, in the -report of Lieutenant W. H. Emory, who says that "the hardships, -trials, and perseverance of the gallant Pike" came forcibly to his -mind when he first caught sight of the Rio Grande, Sept. 2d, 1846, at -San Domingo, whose population he judged to be about 600. - -[I'-15] Marked "S Dies 500" on the map, on the E. side of the Rio -Grande, to which Pike recrossed from San Felipe. The Spanish form -would be San Diaz, but the pueblo is best known as Sandia or Zandia, a -name also applied to the great mountain which rises on the E. As a -Spanish word, _sandia_ means "watermelon," and appeared in print as -the name of this village in 1626. The aboriginal name of the pueblo is -Nafiap, and its mission name was Nuestra Senora de los Dolores de -Sandia. This is a Tanoan town, with a present population of about 150. -The situation is 12 m. above Albuquerque. Pike speaks of two small -hamlets he passed to reach St. Dies. In 1864, when I passed over the -road, there was a mean place called Algodones, of 30 or 40 houses and -some 200 or 300 people, and 6 m. below this was a rather better one -named Bernalillo. This is doubtless what Pike charts as "S Bernilla -500." Bernalillo is present name of a station of the A., T., and S. F. -R. R. Simpson relates that when he passed Sandia in 1849 he noticed in -the space of a mile northward from the pueblo some 60 or 70 piles of -stones which were said to mark the places where as many Navajos had -fallen in battle with the Pueblonians some years before. - -[I'-16] Old Albuquerque, to be distinguished from the present -contiguous or adjacent city of the same name, one of the best-known -places on the Rio Grande between Santa Fe and El Paso. In coming to -this town Pike passed sites of several places now named, though none -of any note--as Corrales (on the opposite or W. side of the river, -whence there is a road 18-2/3 m. to pueblo of Cebolleta); Alameda -(where the river could be crossed to strike the Corrales-Cebolleta -road); Ranchos d'Albuquerque; Los Griegos; and finally Candelaria. The -word Albuquerque, or more properly Alboquerque, is the same as the -name of the very celebrated Portuguese son of Mars and soldier of -fortune, Affonso d'Alboquerque, who flourished in the latter part of -the fifteenth century and early in the sixteenth (b. 1453, d. Dec. -16th, 1515). It is commonly pronounced on the spot Albykirky, and -sometimes Albykirk. The old town was in existence about 1700, and now -has some 1,750 pop.; the new one is a thing of yesterday, so to speak, -but already a notable railroad center, capital of Bernalillo Co., with -nearly 4,000 pop., and scheduled as 58 m. from Santa Fe. Near -Albuquerque there was a ford to a place called Atrisco, whence the -road led westward to Fort Wingate; while eastward from Albuquerque a -road went to the Tijeras canyon, which marks off the Sandia range -proper from the elevation S. of this canyon called Monte Largo. Tijeras -cr., when it runs, falls into the Rio Grande about 8 m. below -Albuquerque. Sandival, a place that appears on various maps, was -Sandival's hacienda, a couple of miles S. of Albuquerque, on an upper -and dryer road than the one usually taken southward. - -[I'-17] No crossing of the Rio Grande is indicated on Pike's map -anywhere along here, his trail being dotted continuously on the E. -side of the river. But it is quite certain that he crossed a little -below old Albuquerque to Atrisco. There was here a ford, regularly -used when the water was not too high. The railroad now crosses some -miles lower down, between Isleta station and Isleta. Atrisco was a -very well-known name, in consequence of the ford, before the days of -the railroads, but is hardly to be found on ordinary maps of to-day. -When I first crossed the Rio Grande, June 23d, 1864, our outfit was -ferried over some 20 m. below Albuquerque, between places called Los -Pinos on the E. and Las Lunas on the W. "Los Pinos" is short for -Bosque or Alamo de los Pinos, as they called the large fine grove of -cottonwoods there, but I do not think there were any pines. A couple -of miles below was the hacienda of Mariano Chavez, brother of the -unfortunate A. J. Chavez who was murdered near the Little Arkansaw: -see note 10, p. 424; M. Chavez was dead himself before 1847. The place -where Pike so joyfully met the blooming Robinson is left open to -question in the present text. If by the "next village" he means the -next one he came to after leaving Albuquerque, this was certainly at -or near the site of Atrisco. This is really the implication; otherwise -we should have to go a good ways down the W. bank of the Rio Grande, -to site of present Pajarito, or perhaps Isleta, at which latter place -is now the junction of the Atl. and Pac. with the A., T., and S. F. R. -R. The doubt is cleared away by the text of the 8th, where it appears -that Pike visited Tousac (see next note) 3 m. from the village where -Robinson was, and on the same (W.) side of the river, where the troops -had been sent over night; and was then carted back over to the E. side -of the river. He simply visited across the Rio Grande, as he had done -at San Felipe, and then returned to continue his regular journey down -the E. side. But neither of these two cases is put very clearly at -first blush in the narrative. - -[I'-18] "Tousac 500" is marked nearly opposite Albuquerque, at or near -present site of Atrisco. What this can be, unless it is Atrisco -itself, or some old place close by. I do not know. The name reminds us -of Tesuque (see note 7, p. 605), but the place here meant is obviously -not that one. (See Tousac in Index.) - -[I'-19] "S. Fernandez 500" is marked on the map as the first village -below Albuquerque on the E. side. I do not recognize the name, nor can -I find it on any one of several maps examined. No distance being given -for the 8th, I am left entirely at a loss. But in no event can Pike -have passed Peralta, a well-known place, and he is probably not far -short of it. We may therefore note some places between Albuquerque and -Peralta. Pajarito Arriba and Pajarito Bajo (Upper and Lower Pajarito) -are two towns 3 m. apart, 3 and 6 m. below Atrisco, on the W. side of -the river; and Tijeras or Tijera cr. or arroyo comes to the river from -the E. about a mile below Pajarito Bajo. Three m. beyond this last -town is Padillas, a Mexican town near the foot of the mesa, and three -beyond this is Isleta--both on the W. side. None of these places was -of importance; but Isleta is now a station on the A., T., and S. F. R. -R., which makes a crossing of the Rio Grande to it from Isleta station -on the E. side; and in the immediate vicinity of Isleta is the -junction of the A. and P. R. R. Below Isleta station, on the E., are -the Ranchitos d'Isleta; next is Los Pinos, already mentioned, then -Chavez, and a mile from this stands Peralta. The latter was known at -one time as Ontero's hacienda. - -[I'-20] "S. Thomas 500" on Pike's map, a mile beyond which was camp of -the 9th. As 12 m. advance was made to-day, St. Thomas and St. -Fernandez were places 11 m. apart. Los Pinos, Peralta, and Valencia -are all places within 3 m. of one another, and more or less nearly -opposite Las Lunas, on the west, long a notable point of crossing of -the Rio Grande, and present seat of Valencia Co. It is situated in the -San Clemente tract, and near it are Las Lunas hills. Five miles below -Valencia, on the E. side of the Rio Grande, is Tome hill, a -conspicuous butte on the edge of the mesa, in lat. 34 deg. 45'. Tome and -the Tome ranches are 2 or 3 m. further south. These stretched along -the river for more than a mile, presenting at times well cultivated -and well irrigated grainfields. - -[I'-21] "Sibilleta 1000," which Pike marks on his trail on the E. bank -of the Rio Grande, is otherwise Cibolleta, La Joya de Cibolleta, or -old La Joya, within the area of the Cevilleta or Joya Grant, and in -Socorro Co. (next county S. of Valencia). Present La Joya is across -the river, on the W. side; the railroad goes through it. Beyond old La -Joya is Joya canyon, on the E. All these places are a few miles S. of -the confluence of the Rio Puerco with the Rio Grande, on the W. The -Puerco is a sizable stream, or dry bed of one, on a general S. course, -crossed at 23 m. distance in going W. from Las Lunas along the old -road to Zuni, Fort Wingate, etc. Where I crossed, it was a sluggish -thread of dirty yellow water which one could bestride; but it is some -75 m. long, and important in furnishing bounds to several of the land -grants in Valencia and Bernalillo cos. There is no trace of the Puerco -on Pike's map, though he lays down both Rio Chama and Rio Jemez. -Before coming to the confluence of the Puerco he passed a number of -places now named, which may be taken up thus: On the E. side are -Constancia, Casa Colorada, Vellita, and Las Nutrias, with several -others of less note. Casa Colorada ("Red House") gives name to the -grant next south of Tome Grant; it is on the Rio Grande, 4 m. above -the mouth of that considerable stream, high up on which are the ruins -of Abo. On the W. side, where the railroad now runs, a principal place -is Belen, in the vicinity of which were others which were called -Ranchos de Belen, and Pueblitos de Belen; nearly opposite the last, -but directly on the W. bank of the river, is Jarales. Next above the -Belen pueblito, on the railroad, is Trejos, and next below it is San -Jose. Below the last named is a point of woods, called in Spanish -Punto del Bosque, and here is a place named Bosque. Rancho Sabinal, -Sabinal station, and a certain Pueblito succeed one another, bringing -us about opposite the above said Las Nutrias. - -Along this whole stretch of the Rio Grande, from Peralta nearly to La -Joya, a range of mountains extends in the E. offing, say 15-20 m. -air-line to their summits. This is the Manzano range, running N. and -S.; some of its peaks, up to 10,000 feet, are called Mosca, Capilla, -Osha, and Manzano. The range continues S. under the name of Cerro -Montoso. Roads start from many places on the Rio Grande to go through -the canyons or passes in these mountains. - -We have also to attend to Sabinez and Xaxales of the above text, and -with these may note several other pueblos Pike charts in this region. - -1. Sabinez, or Sabinal, or Savinal, was a place near the W. bank of -the Rio Grande, in the vicinity of present Sabinal station on the -railroad, about 10 m. above new La Joya, and somewhat less above the -mouth of Rio Puerco. - -2. "Xaxales 300" is marked a few miles S. of Sabinez, at or near the -place on the railroad now called Pueblito, 6 or 8 m. above new La -Joya. "Xaxales" is the same word as Jarales (otherwise Gerrales), but -does not seem to have denoted the place now called by the latter name. - -3. Next W. of Sabinez and Xaxales, but well off the Rio Grande, Pike -marks "Seguna 250." This is the large, old, and still flourishing -Keresan pueblo of Laguna, with a present pop. of over 1,100. It is so -called from the little lake or laguna hard by, on a branch of the Rito -San Jose (a branch of the Rio Puerco). This pueblo is on the main road -from the Rio Grande to Zuni and so on. An old Navajo trail takes or -took off N. from Laguna, up another branch of the same rito, in the -course of which latter is a cluster of small pueblos, as Povete, -Pojuate, or Paguate; Moquino; Cebolleta; and Cebolletita; there were -also various ruined pueblos here and there in the region watered by -the Rito San Jose and its several trickling affluents. Covero is a -pueblo not far W. N. W. of Laguna. - -4. Pike marks "Cequimas 500" some distance S. W. of Laguna. This is -the old and well-known Keresan pueblo of Acoma, on another affluent of -the San Jose system, with a present pop. of about the same as it had -in his time. Plates of Acoma and various other towns illustrate Lieut. -J. W. Abert's report, Ex. Doc. 41, 30th Congr., 1st Sess., pub. 1848. -(See Cequimas in Index.) - -5. "Zumi 300" is charted near both of the foregoing, and E. of the -continental divide. This is an error of location, for the pueblo meant -is that of Zuni or Suinyi, one of the largest and on the whole the -best known of all the Indian towns in New Mexico. It is situated on -the Rio Zuni, tributary to the Colorado river system, and, therefore, -on the Pacific slope. The place is famous as the very heart of the -region where the "Seven Cities of Cibola" stood at the dawn of the -historic period in Spanish invasion of this country; one of the seven -having furnished at least a part of the present site of Zuni. The -Zunian people, to the number of some 1,600, alone represent a distinct -nation of pueblonians, called the Zunian family: see a note beyond. - -6. West of his line of continental-divide mountains Pike locates two -pueblos, or rather Indian villages, by the names of "Cumpa" and -"Chacat." These are not far apart, and both approximate to the four -Moki villages he charts: see a note beyond for the Mokis. The -identification of Cumpa may be in question; but Chacat evidently -stands for what Pike learned of the old establishments in the Canyon de -Chaco, or de Chasco. This is in N. W. New Mexico, and in such extent -of the canyon as has running water is the Rio Chaco, tributary of Rio -San Juan, a branch of the Colorado Grande which enters above the mouth -of the Colorado Chiquito, in Utah. This canyon once harbored a large -population in several different establishments, all long since gone to -ruins; and the Chaco people have been the subjects of much disputed -history. An excellent account of the ruins is contained in Simpson's -Report, pp. 73-86; views of some of them are given on several plates. -On his map the names of 10 of the 12 he locates stand as Pintado, -Wejegi, Una Vida, Hungo Pavi, Chetho Kette, Bonito, Del Arroyo, Nos. 8 -and 9 blank, Penasca Blanca. - -[I'-22] Past Joya canyon to the vicinity of La Joyita, near the S. -border of the Joya Grant. This is a small town near which some black -basaltic bluffs reach down close to the river. It is not to be -confounded with the village of similar name, La Joya, a few miles -further on. - -[I'-23] The Black mts. of Pike's text, Sierra Obscura of his map, are -in the series of ranges along the E. side of the Rio Grande, at -varying but always considerable distances. These are in general but -not exact continuation of the San Diaz or Sandia mts., and take, in -different parts of their extent, other names, as Cerro Manzano, Cerro -Montoso, etc.; the name Sierra Oscura or Black range being now -restricted to a short chain between the Chupadera mesa on the N. and -the San Andreas chain on the S. Though there is of course no such -linear continuity of these ranges as Pike's Sierra Obscura seems to -represent, yet I think Pike hit off the mountains wonderfully well, -considering the stealthy circumstances under which he observed them. -All through "the captivity" in New Spain he had to make his notes -furtively, and then conceal them--in other words, he stole and hid -away his information. His Sierra Obscura is all the better delineated -by his marking certain southern portions of the chain with the names -"Sierra de el Sacramento" and "Sierra de Guadelupe"--these being -ranges which he was never near, if in fact he ever laid eyes on them. -They are those called to-day the Sacramento and Guadalupe ranges, -trending S. E. toward the Rio Pecos, down to lat. 32 deg. or thereabouts; -they are special southward extensions of the huge nest of mountains -which bound for a great distance the water-shed of the Pecos, and are -broken into many lesser ranges and peaks, as the White range (Sierra -Blanca), the Nogal, Capitan, Carrizo, Jicarilla, etc. In perhaps no -point is Pike's (qu: Humboldt's?) map clearer than where he runs his -"Montagnes de Salines" N. between his Sierra Obscura on the E. and the -Rio Grande on the W.; for this is the San Andreas range, which extends -continuously southward from the Sierra Oscura of present geography, -and whose southern portions now bear the names of the Organ and -Franklin mts., ending only near El Paso. The Organ mts. were better -and have been long known by the Spanish name of Sierra de los Organos, -exactly as lettered by Pike. This curious name originated in the -fancied resemblance of the columnar trap formations to the pipes of an -organ. Wislizenus and Hughes both call them the "Organic" mts. Their -fastnesses were favorite and habitual lurking-places of the Mescalero -Apaches--those murderous freebooters and desperadoes who used to -descend upon the peaceful pueblos and the Spanish settlements. "The -Assyrian came down like the wolf on the fold," and so did the Apache, -not only from the Organ mts. and other parts of the San Andreas or -Salinas range, but also from all the mountains above mentioned as -lying further east. Observe that Pike thrice locates Apaches among -these mountains, lettering "Apaches Faraone," "Apaches Mescaleros," -and "Apaches Mescalorez." He also locates what he calls "Indiens -Ietans"; these are the Comanches, usually given in his text as -"Tetaus," who played the part of Vandals to the Goths of the -Apaches--twin scourges during the whole historic period and down to -our own day, under the leadership of chiefs whose characters recall -the popular impressions of Attila the Hun. The only serious criticism -to be passed on this part of Pike's map is the way he runs a great -river in the country of his Ietans and Mescaleros, between his Sierra -Obscura and his Montagnes de Salines, _i. e._, in the deserts E. of -his San Andreas range and W. of the other mountains. But this is -simply his misapprehension of such information as he had of the course -of the Pecos; for his "Rio Puerto" is a mistake for Rio Puerco, and -this was a long current though mistaken name of the Pecos, to be found -on various maps and in different itineraries of comparatively recent -dates. It is hardly necessary to add that the Pecos lies eastward of -all the mountains now under consideration; there is no such river -where Pike lays down his "Rio Puerto." That region is a horrid desert, -where such waters as may start from the mountains on either hand soon -run out by evaporation and absorption, or lose themselves in those -salty sinks and alkaline wastes whence originated, in fact, the former -name of "Saline" or "Salinas" mts. for the San Andreas range. - -As to the "Mountains of Magdalen" of Pike's text: We observe that he -maps two isolated elevations on his right, W. of the Rio Grande, -respectively lettered "Sierra Magillez" and "Sierra Christopher." -These clearly correspond to two of the most conspicuous elevations, -Mt. Magdalen and Old Baldy, of the range which continues to be known -as that of the Magdalen mts. or Sierra Magdalena. These are a short -but high range directly W. of the county town Socorro, whence a branch -of the railroad now runs into them to the place called Magdalena. This -range rises 20 m. and more from the river; in this interval a series -of lesser elevations stretches northward, taking at successive points -the names of Socorro, Limitar, Polvadero, and Ladron--the two last of -these being separated by the arroyo of the Rio Salado, coming to the -Rio Grande from the W. in the vicinity of the Joya canyon from the E. - -The position of Pike's camp of the 12th is not easily determined, as -he gives no mileage and names no place. But it was not far below -Socorro, and perhaps in the close vicinity of Bosquecito. His _Sierra_ -Christopher (W. of the river) is to be carefully distinguished from -what he further on calls the "mountain of the Friar Christopher," -_i. e._, Fra Cristobal, on the E. of the river: see note 25, pp. 635, -636, and note 30, p. 639. - -When Pike passed a couple of miles below Parida, on the E. side of the -Rio Grande, he had to climb a steep hill close to the river. From the -top of this there is a fine view to be had of various places. Nearly -opposite is Socorro, on the W. bank; Limitar is visible, 6 or 8 m. -higher up on that side; while about 4 m. below is the site of the -ruins of Las Huertas (the Orchards). Socorro was long one of the -largest and most important places on the Rio Grande. It had a -population of 2,000 about the middle of this century. - -[I'-24] No mileage for to-day, nor even number of hours on the march; -no named point. In fact Pike's itinerary from Santa Fe thus far hardly -gives a natural feature--not even the mouth of the Rio Puerco; we have -to check it as best we can by a few names of towns now nearly a -century old, and not always indicating a present location, together -with what we may suppose to have been ordinary days' journeys. Camp of -the 13th may be set somewhere within the limits of the present Bosque -del Apache Grant, a good ways below Bosquecitos and San Pedro on the -E., or San Jose and San Antonio on the W. A view of the Bosque faces -p. 499 of Abert's report. The grant named is a small triangular area -whose N. base is the S. border of the Socorro Grant, whose W. side -adjoins the E. border of the Armendaris Grant, and whose apex is at or -near Mt. Pascal (Cerro San Pascual). Old Fort Conrad was built on the -W. side of the river, nearly opposite but a little above Valverde. -Valverde was inhabited during the first quarter of this century, but -the inhabitants were killed or driven off by the Apaches and Navajos, -and it showed nothing but its ruins in 1846, as delineated on the -plate of Abert's report, facing p. 506. Writing of 1839, Gregg says, -Comm. Pra. II. 1844, p. 71: "We passed the southernmost settlements of -New Mexico, and 20 or 30 miles further down the river we came to the -ruins of Valverde. This village was founded about 20 years ago, in one -of the most fertile valleys of the Rio del Norte. It increased rapidly -in population, until it was invaded by the Navajoes, when the -inhabitants were obliged to abandon the place after considerable loss, -and it has never since been repeopled." This locality, in a narrow, -sandy valley, some 15 m. by the road above Fra Cristobal mt., used to -be a point of departure in various directions from the Rio Grande, and -the name occurs continually in the history of scouts on -reconnoissances in this region before our Civil War; it was the -general rendezvous of Doniphan's forces, preparatory to his invasion -of Mexico and capture of Chihuahua; and it was the scene of a battle, -for gallant and meritorious services in which action a particular -friend of mine, Allen Latham Anderson, was brevetted major, Feb. 21st, -1862. - -[I'-25] To-day's itinerary brings up a number of interesting and -important points, not evident at first sight. Below Valverde and San -Pascual mt. Pike comes to a section of the river which has made much -history. Along here, above and below Valverde, within a very few miles -of one another, are the sites of Fort Conrad and old Fort Craig, both -on the W. bank of the river; the position of the present places known -as Arny, San Marcia, and Plaza Grande on the W., with La Mesa and -Contadero on the E.; the present crossing of the railroad to the Mesa -Prieta, from points higher up on the W.; and below this the Rio Grande -crossing known as Paraje ferry, near the place of that name on the E. -But we are mainly concerned to discover Pike's "point from which the -road leaves the river"; and why at this point his escort should have -abandoned the main road due S., two days' journey, to take him across -the river and then S. W., by a rough and roundabout way for several -days till, bearing S. E., the route should strike the S. end of the -direct road which had been left at its N. end. If we should imagine -some dark Spanish mystery here, we should be mistaken; for Malgares -simply took Pike that way to avoid the terrible Jornada del -Muerto--that Macabresque march which too often proved to be literally -a "journey of the dead." It is now, as it was then, the great highway -directly N. and S.; but what is now bowled over at ease in a few hours -by rail, was then the toilsome, perilous, and sometimes fatal journey -through an awful desert. When I was in New Mexico, 30 years ago, -officers and others who had made this jornada were never weary of -descanting upon the terrors of that "ninety miles without, a drop of -water," as it was commonly said to be. The trip is not quite so far as -this, between the points where the river is usually left and regained; -but it is not much less, and lives often hung upon the uncertainty -whether any water could be found at a midway point known as Laguna del -Muerto, or Lake of the Dead. The route of the Jornada is like the -string of a bow whose arc is the Rio Grande, stretched straight up and -down the desert between the river on the W. and the San Andreas range -on the E., or rather between this range and those mountains on the W. -of itself which close in on the E. bank of the river, cause its -deflection, and render travel along its left (E.) bank difficult or -impossible. Hence the crossing of the river at a point above them, to -go along the right or W. bank, as Malgares did, was the alternative to -the Jornada del Muerto. The mountains in mention are a barren range -which begins to hug the river in the vicinity of Paraje, below -Contadero, and is known as the Fra Cristobal range; this, or rather -the northern end of it, is the "mountain of the Friar Christopher," of -which Pike speaks. The chain continues southward (with only partial -interruption, in the vicinity of Fort McRae), as the Sierra de los -Caballos, or Horse range. Pike lays down ranges at three separate -points, lettered "Las Pennuclas" (for Los Penaculos, the Pinnacles), -"Horse M^n." and "Death M^n."; the first of these being an elevation -of the Cristobal range, probably that now called Cristobal Peak, and -the second and third being parts of the Caballos range. Whatever the -exact point at which the main road left the river when Pike passed, it -was near if not at the same point whence the Jornada has begun for -half a century at least, and which took the name Fra Cristobal from -the mountain. Thus, we read in Gregg, Comm. Pra. II. 1844, pp. 71-72: -"Our next camping place deserving of mention was _Fray Cristobal_, -which, like many others on the route, is neither town nor village, but -a simple isolated point on the river-bank--a mere _parage_, or -camping-ground ... thus being the threshold of the famous _Jornada del -Muerto_." The words of Dr. Wislizenus on this subject are to precisely -the same effect, Mem., 1848, p. 38: "This camping place is known as -_Fray Cristobal_; but as there is neither house nor settlement here, -and one may fix his camp close on or some distance from the river, the -limits of Fray Cristobal are not so distinctly defined as those of a -city, and generally the last camping place on or near the Rio del -Norte before entering the _Jornada del Muerto_ is understood by it." -Doniphan's troops were more than three days in making the jornada: -Hughes, Don. Exp., 1847, p. 95. Here the road left the river valley by -a contadero, and passed on to the desert. The first lap of the jornada -was 26 m. to the Laguna del Muerto, usually dry, sometimes holding -water after a rain. (Pike lays this down rather too far N., as the -"Lago del munto" by mistake of the engraver.) Thus when Gregg passed -in 1839, "there was not even a vestige of water," _l. c._, p. 73. "The -marshes," he continues, "said by some historians to be in the -vicinity, are nowhere to be found; nothing but the firmest and dryest -table land is to be seen in every direction. To procure water for our -thirsty animals, it is often necessary to make a halt here, and drive -them to the Ojo del Muerto (Dead Man's Spring), five or six miles to -the westward, in the very heart of the mountain ridge that lay between -us and the river. This region is one of the favorite resorts of the -Apaches, where many a poor arriero has met with an untimely end. The -route which leads to the spring winds for two or three miles down a -narrow canyon or gorge, overhung on either side by abrupt precipices, -while the various clefts and crags, which project their gloomy brows -over the abyss below, seem to move the murderous savage to deeds of -horror and blood." The second lap of the jornada was 28 m. to a place -called Perillo (qu: same as Barilla?), to be found on present maps as -Point of Rocks, where water may be found in holes. The third stage was -23 m., finishing the jornada in the vicinity of Fort Selden. This -total of 77 m.--easily becoming the "90" of tradition--could be made -in two days, as Pike says; the usual method being to cover the -distance in three marches of a night, next day, and the following -night. The road itself is not bad; only the possibility or probability -of 77 m. without water made it a terror. As may be seen even from the -map on the railroad folder, the jornada was nearly coincident with the -present line from Contadero due S.; but the track leaves the river a -little higher up, and strikes it again also higher up, at Rincon. The -first portion of the track runs through mal pais, as they call ground -strewn with rough and gritty fragments of lava, which makes traveling -bad; there is a station called Lava from this circumstance, and also a -certain Lava Butte, near the station Pope. The rails continue by -Crocker and Round mt. to the station Eagle, whence a road goes off W. -to the Fort McRae reservation; stations further along are Cutler, -Upham, and Granada, the last being near the Point of Rocks, formerly -called Perillo, near where the stage station used to be; whence the -run is into Rincon, at a point on the river opposite Angostura, where -Pike comes along on the 17th. A camping-ground on the river, at this -end of the jornada, was known as Robledo (Oaks). - -[I'-26] The whole of this way is bad, being cut across by a series of -arroyos or gulches making down from the San Mateo and Mimbres ranges. -These mountains are a part of the general chain which Pike maps in -linear continuity as one which forms the "Dividing Ridge between the -Waters of Rio del Norte and those of the Gulf of California"--that is, -the Continental Divide. At one point in these ranges Pike legends very -conspicuously "Grand Copper Mines, worked." It is also shown on the -map of Lieut.-Col. Philip St. George Cooke, of his route from the Rio -Grande to the Gila, etc., in 1846-47, Ex. Doc. No. 41, 30th Cong., 1st -Sess., pub. 1848; and a "view of the copper mine" forms the subject of -the plate opp. p. 59 of the same volume, in Lieut. W. H. Emory's -report: see also _ibid._, A. R. Johnston's report, pp. 577, 578 fig. -The headwaters of the Rio Gila are across the divide of the Mimbres -range. As the party goes down the valley of the Rio Grande, say from -the Nogal arroyo or the site of the village now called San Jose, -opposite Fra Cristobal, 6,600 feet, they have the range of the latter -name on the left, or E., immediately across the river, while the San -Mateo peak, 10,200 feet, towers on the N. W. - -[I'-27] Before coming to his Horse mt., Pike passed several points of -note. He crossed Rio Alamoso or Canada Alamosa near camp (unless he -was already beyond it), and next Rio Cuchillo Negro. Between these -two, but off on the E. side of the river, was built Fort McRae, in the -southern foothills of the Fra Cristobal range (vicinity of Elephant -Butte and Ojo del Muerto). There is or was a crossing of the Rio -Grande from the fort, called Fest's ferry. Horse mt. of Pike is now -called Caballo Cone; it rises at the N. extremity of the range of the -Horse mts., usually known by the Spanish name of Sierra de los -Caballos. The Mt. of the Dead is another elevation of this range, but -which one is less easily determined. It was at or near the S. end of -this range; see the positions of "Horse M^n." and "Dead M^n." on the -map. Pike also marks a mountain close to his trail, on the W., by the -name of "Rabledillo." This I take to be Cerro Cuchillo Negro, opposite -Caballo Cone, between Rio Cuchillo Negro and Rio Palomo (Pigeon cr.). -The latter is crossed at its mouth (Los Palomos); Rio Animas is -crossed (Brent's); and several arroyos or dry washes are passed, till -the party is well down on the W. side of the Horse range, within some -25 m. of where the Rio Grande will be crossed to-morrow. Camp is -apparently between the mouths of Rio Perchas and Cienega Apache, which -fall in near together on the W. Hillsborough, seat of Sierra Co. -(which Pike entered when he left Socorro Co. on the 15th), is situated -about 20 m. up Rio Perchas. Near this camp, and nearly opposite his -Dead mt., Pike marks an elevation by the name of "La Ranchero," which -appears to be that which approaches the Rio Grande most closely -between Cienega Apache and White Water cr. In any event, this is one -of the foothills of the Mimbres range, as are several others Pike maps -in this vicinity. See next note. - -[I'-28] Not 26 m. after crossing the river, but from last camp, from -which it is about 26 m. to make the crossing. In this trip Pike turns -the W. and S. flank of the Sierra de los Caballos or Horse mts., -having these first E. and then N. of his route (on his left all the -way). In so doing he passes from Sierra into Dona Ana Co., and goes by -a number of notable points, some of which he maps. On the W. side of -the river, in Dona Ana Co., at or near present Santa Barbara, was the -site of old Fort Thorn and the old Indian Agency; Beck's ferry was -also hereabouts. Pike sets four mountains on his right, at different -distances to the W. and S. These are lettered (1) "Esterolargo," (2) -"S. Jacomb," (3) "La Salmera," (4) "Piadro." These are some of the -most elevated points in the rugged and irregularly broken country to -the south of the Horse and Mimbres ranges; and their relative -positions as mapped by Pike agree so well with those of certain -well-known elevations that identifications may be attempted: (1) -Esterolargo seems to correspond to the Cerro Magdalen, between Fort -Selden on the E. and old Fort Cummings on the W. (2) is in the -position of the Good Sight mts., about half-way between the Magdalens -and Fort Cummings. A branch of the A., T., and S. F. R. R., from -Rincon on the Rio Grande to Deming, runs past the Magdalens (station -Sellers) and thence through the Good Sight mts. by Burr's Pass -(station Nutt), between Good Sight Peak and Sunday Cone. Fort Cummings -was built in that southern extension of the Mimbres range known as -Cooke's range: leave railroad for the fort at Cummings station, or -keep on past Coleman to Deming, etc. (3) is Cerro Robledo, on W. bank -of the Rio Grande, immediately S. of Fort Selden. (4) may be intended -for the Florida mts., on the boundary between Dona Ana and Grant cos., -directly S. of Fort Cummings 20 and 30 m., not so far S. E. of Deming. -Pike crosses the Rio Grande from W. to E., at or near where the -railroad now crosses in passing between stations Hatch (Colorado) and -Rincon; camp at this place or in its immediate vicinity, about -opposite town of Angostura. - -The practically identical language of Mar. 17th and 18th shows that -Pike has duplicated an entry, and consequently that one day's march -has been lost. This loss is irretrievable, so far as I can discover. -Furthermore, we have no mileages for the 19th and 20th. Under these -circumstances the best we can do is to march him into El Paso in three -laps, set three camps _ex hypothesi_, and note in due order the places -on the road over which we know he passed. - -[I'-29] To camp at some point between Fort Selden and Dona Ana, -probably not far beyond the site of the former post. The Military -Reservation upon which this long noted fort was established includes a -tract a few miles square on both sides of the river, between the Cerro -Robledo on the S. and San Diego mt. on the N. and N. W.; eastward are -some elevations known as the Dona Ana hills; the Cerro Magdalen is due -W., but at a much greater distance. A few miles below Rincon and -Angostura the river enters the Selden canyon, where it is straitened -between Mt. San Diego on the E. and highlands on the W.; the railroad -traverses this canyon, with the stations Tonuco near its head and -Randall below; the position of the fort is between the latter and -Leasburg, on the E. bank of the river. Pike's map shows a marked bend -or loop of the dotted trail of the 18th, and I suppose this indicates -where he went around Mt. San Diego. There used to be a place called -San Diego here, about opposite the point where the old Cooke trail -left the river. Dona Ana was founded on the E. bank of the river, say -60 m. by road from El Paso. This town was started in or about 1839, by -settlers from El Paso, and 10 years later had a population of 300, -mostly Mexicans, who required the protection of the military from the -Apaches. The railroad passes by but not through the present town, -which has given name to the county, though the county seat is at Las -Cruces. Both of these places are included in the Dona Ana Bend Colony -tract. - -The Cooke trail above mentioned is that made by Lieut.-Col. Philip St. -George Cooke, commanding the Mormon battalion of the Army of the West -on the march from Santa Fe, N. M., to San Diego, Cal., under the -guidance of Antoine Leroux, in the autumn of 1846. It will be found -very clearly traced, from the point of departure from the Rio Grande -to the Pima villages on the Gila, on the sketch-map accompanying that -officer's report to General Kearny, Ex. Doc. No. 41, 30th Congr., 1st -Sess., pub 1848, pp. 549-563. It is a roundabout way which loops far -S. and strikes the San Pedro several days' march above the confluence -of that stream with the Gila, follows the San Pedro down a piece -northward, then strikes westward to Tucson, and so on N. W. to the -Gila at the Pima villages. The distance is represented to have been -544 m. - -[I'-30] Fra Cristobal, that is, but to be distinguished from Pike's -_Sierra_ Christopher: see note 23, p. 633, and note 25, p. 635. -The road which Pike thus struck was in direct continuation of the -Jornada del Muerto, on the way to El Paso, and led by Las Cruces, -present seat of Dona Ana Co. This has been for many years one of the -best-known places on the Rio Grande between Santa Fe and El Paso; it -is located a little off the river, on the E. side. In the vicinity of -Las Cruces, on the E. bank of the river, is Messilla, another -well-known town. The party proceeded past Tortugas and Bosquecito, to -a point somewhere beyond the site of old Fort Fillmore, and probably -within the present limits of the Brazito tract. This camp might be -fixed more exactly by one who could say how far short it was of a -certain salt lake likely to be reached at 10 a. m. next day. The route -along here, as indeed from Fort Selden, is practically coincident with -that of the railroad. Brazito became the famous name of a -battle-ground, after Christmas Day of 1846, when Colonel Doniphan's -regiment defeated and routed a superior force of Mexicans who attacked -him. A spirited account of this engagement is given by John T. Hughes, -Don. Exp. 1847, pp. 96-99, including a plan of the battle-ground. The -engagement lasted half an hour, about 3 p. m. The spot is given as "25 -m." from El Paso, opposite a large island in the Rio Grande, and also -opposite a pass between the lower end of the Organ mts. and others -called the "White" mts. The Mexicans numbered about 1,300 men, of whom -71 were killed, 5 taken prisoners, and not less than 150 wounded, -including their general, Ponce de Leon; the American casualty was 8 -wounded--none killed. - -On Pike's left as he passes stand the Organ or Organon mts., as now so -called in strictness, being that southward continuation of the San -Andreas range which is marked off by a gap from the rest of the chain. -This gap is the San Augustin Pass; place there called Organ, 15 m. E. -by N. from Dona Ana. Pike charts these mountains: see note 23, p. 631. -They run about S., and as the river is here bearing S. S. E., the two -approach within 10 to 5 m. in the vicinity of the place where Fort -Fillmore stood. Pike's "Sierra de la Cola," as laid down close to the -river, but due E. of El Paso, appears to correspond with what is now -known as the Franklin range, around which the river finally turns E. -to escape from all confinement. Along the Rio Grande itself his map -marks nothing whatever from the vicinity of Fort Selden to El Paso. -But we are now approaching some of the most important points of the -whole route. - -[I'-31] In the vicinity of Montoyo, Tex., in the extreme W. corner of -the State. Passing successively Mesquite, Herron, and Lyndon, on the -railroad, with San Miguel (Baca Grant), La Mesa, and Chamberino in -succession on the other side of the river, Pike comes to the station -Anthony and the parallel of 32 deg. N.; on crossing which he goes from -Dona Ana Co., N. M., into El Paso Co., Tex., as he proceeds down the -left or E. bank of the river; had he been on the other side he would -have remained in New Mexico until he entered present Chihuahua at lat. -31 deg. 47' N. For the course of the Rio Grande itself makes the irregular -boundary of Texas for 15 or 20 m., from the point where the parallel -of 32 deg. N. strikes the river from the E., to that where the parallel of -31 deg. 47' N. leaves the river on the W. This break or fault (as a miner -would say of a lead that acted so) of the straight border between -Texas and New Mexico, where the boundary slips 13' S. down the Rio -Grande, is one of the politico-geographical curiosities of the -situation, which would only be fully understood upon mastering the -complicated history of the U. S. and Mexican Boundary Survey in all -the bitterness of its personal episodes. Some of these points are -considered in the following note. From lat. 31 deg. 47' N. on the Rio -Grande, in the immediate vicinity of El Paso, Tex., and of El Paso del -Norte (Ciudad Juarez), in Chihuahua, the river forms the boundary -between the United States and the Republic of Mexico--that is, between -Texas and the Mexican States of Chihuahua, Coahuila, Nuevo Leon, and -Tamaulipas--on a circuitous but in general S. E. course to the Gulf of -Mexico. - -[I'-32] The celebrated place to which our friend has thus been -conducted by his friends, the enemy, must not be confounded with our -little town of El Paso, Tex. This grew up yesterday, so to speak; that -dates from about 1680, as a Spanish settlement begun after the great -Pueblo revolt, when Governor Otermin's people were driven out of Santa -Fe. Before Pike was welcomed by the civil and ecclesiastical -dignitaries of El Paso del Norte, he crossed the great river, and thus -passed from the State of Texas into that of Chihuahua, as these are -now bounded. He would have said that he simply went across the river -which flows in the province of North or New Mexico of the kingdom of -New Spain, and had not yet reached the province of New Biscay. But -aside from any of the political affairs which spoil the complexion of -the maps, El Paso is one of the most remarkable positions in North -America, unique in some respects. With regard to the tide of -emigration which set westward by southern lines of travel to the -California of the forty-niners, it is comparable with that place by -which, from time immemorial, the nations have passed from Asia into -Europe, along what has been fitly styled the "highway of the world." -But El Paso is not only a half-way house from the Gulf of Mexico to -that of California; it is the continental cross-roads. For the ebb and -flow of human tides set with conflicting currents, north and south, -long before the first page of American history was traced, and will -continue forever in motion by El Paso. There is the turning-point of -that great river which was Rio del Norte above this pass, and Rio -Grande or Rio Bravo below. "El Paso" is certainly, as it always has -been, the place of fording or crossing the river--Gregg says it was -called by Americans "The Pass," and speaks of "Pass wine" and "Pass -whiskey," as they named the liquors made there--but that is not the -implication of the name. "El Paso" is the mountain-pass--el paso del -Rio del Norte--the place where the river passes from the mountains to -the plains. We have traced it from Pike's stockade on the Conejos, in -the San Luis valley, almost due S., in an immense trough of several -hundred miles' length, during the whole of which distance it has been -seen to be closely confined to its mountain bed, hemmed in on the W. -by the continental divide or its several outliers, on the E. by -successive ranges of not less dignity and importance. In all this -course it receives no more than mere creeks from the eastern side; -while from the W. its tributaries are comparatively few and small -rivers. But at El Paso the river turns out of bed, so to say, with -hardly a figure of speech, to go all abroad in the open country, -drawing to itself large tributaries on its way to the sea. Yet it has -another strait-jacketing to suffer in forcing its way through the last -mountains that rise to obstruct its course. The struggle begins near -the entrance of the Rio Conchas and in the vicinity of Presidio del -Norte, one of the oldest establishments in northern Mexico; it -continues for many miles through a series of canyons in the Bofecillos, -San Carlos, and other mountains. During this passage the river makes a -sharp elbow from S. E. northward, and then with a bold sweep recovers -its former course; it receives its tribute from the Pecos, its largest -branch; then, freed from its last fetters and augmented in force, the -Rio Grande winds its way to the Gulf, having well won the title -"Bravo." Such action is the more to be applauded if we remember that -above the canyon-formations the river sometimes sinks exhausted into -the ground, and its bed may become for many miles a wagon-road. The -great flexures of the river lie within about a degree of latitude (29 deg. -to 30 deg. N.), and the series of canyons is between the 102d and 105th -meridians. Major Emory speaks of that great bend of the river as "one -of the most remarkable features on the face of the globe--that of a -river traversing at an oblique angle a chain of lofty mountains, and -making through these, on a gigantic scale, what is called in Spanish -America a canyon--that is, a river hemmed in by vertical walls," U. S. -and Mex. B. Surv. I. 1857, p. 42. With due deference, and no desire to -derogate from the dignity, either of the Rio Grande or of its -canyonation, I do not see that we have not several parallel cases in -this country, some of which are on a scale of not inferior magnitude. -The essential features of the case are those of a great river which -has once left its bed in mountains about its origin, traversed open -country, and then forced its way through canyon-formation in another -range or spur. The Arkansaw, heading in the continental divide, breaks -out upon the plain at Canyon City, through a chasm in another range. -The South Platte traverses South Park, and the North Platte, North -Park, to seek the plains through other mountains than those in which -they respectively head. The Yellowstone has its upper canyon and then -comes out at Livingston through a lower one. The Missouri itself -leaves its sources far remote from the range through which it finally -makes its exit from Lewis and Clark's Gates of the Rocky Mountains. -And just think of the Columbia! - -Pike has nothing to say of any place on the Rio Grande opposite the -Mexican town of El Paso, at or near where El Paso stands in Texas. But -the valley has been settled and cultivated from remote antiquity, and -the clustering of the population at various points gave rise to towns -or pueblos, all of which, of course, had names, though several of -these have lapsed forever. Maps now nearly half a century old mark on -the Texan side several places by the names of Frontera, La Frontera, -or Las Fronteras; Isleta, a Tanoan pueblo (in what is now -Texas--distinguish from the other Tanoan pueblo, Isleta, in New -Mexico); Socorro; San Elceario, or Elizario; also, Franklin and Fort -Bliss--all these before there was any El Paso in Texas. Present maps -show, below Montoyo, Santa Teresa, Frontera, El Paso, Isleta, San -Elizario, and so on down the river along the railroad. As to the germ -of the American town of El Paso, we find that Captain S. G. French, in -1849, came up the Rio Grande "to the intersection of the Santa Fe road -at the rancho opposite El Paso"; and again: "El Paso is wholly -situated in Mexico--there being, excepting the three villages on the -island [San Elizario, Socorro, Isleta], but three houses on the -American side." French's mileages by odometer in coming up the river -on the Texan side, are: San Elizario to Socorro, 5.45 m.; Socorro to -Isleta, 3.10; Isleta to Upper Ford, 7.05; Upper Ford to Coon's -Hacienda, 7.09; total, 22.69, or 22-2/3 m. from San Elizario to where -the Santa Fe road came to the river to cross to El Paso, Mex. (Reports -of Reconn., etc., 8vo, Washington, 1850, p. 53--not a book very easy -to find.) A table of distances in the reverse direction and bringing -in two more of the above names, is furnished by Major Emory, U. S. and -M. B. S., I. 1857, p. 135: Franklin (opposite El Paso) to Fort Bliss, -2 m.; Fort Bliss to Isleta, 12.14; Isleta to Socorro, 3.10; Socorro to -San Elceario, 5.45; total, 22.69, or 22-2/3 m., as before. If these -were independent measurements, the odometers must have been good, as -well as the road; but I cite them both to show that Coon's Hacienda, -Franklin, and El Paso, Tex., were the same place, opposite El Paso, -Mex., and that Fort Bliss was built 2 m. lower down. Writing of the -early fifties, Emory also states, _op. cit._, p. 91: "From San -Elceario up to El Paso, a distance by the sinuosities of the river of -30 miles, but by air-line of only 20 miles, is almost one continuous -settlement of Mexicans and Pueblo Indians, with here and there an -American farmer and trader." His estimates of the population all -along, from El Paso, Mex., to San Elceario, are: El Paso (including -the very ancient Tanoan pueblo of Sinecu, supposed to have been built -before the Spaniards came), 4,000; Franklin (present El Paso, Tex.), -200; Socorro, 300; San Elceario, 1,200; with 1,300 at places still -further down, making a total of 7,000. Isleta does not figure in this -census. This population was mostly mixed, with little pure Spanish, or -Indian either. The commercial importance of El Paso as a port of entry -may be inferred from Emory's statement that, before the ports on the -lower Rio Bravo were opened, for some years as much as $2,000,000 -worth of goods passed into Mexico this way; figures supposed to have -been reduced more than one-half at the time of which he wrote. He -describes the town of El Paso, Mex., as "one extended vineyard in the -hands of many proprietors." The little town of Frontera, above -mentioned, acquired some consequence in 1852 from the erection there -in 1851 of one of the astronomical stations at which Major Emory, U. -S. Commissioner, and Don Jose Salazar y Larregui, Comisionado -Mexicano, determined the initial point of the boundary W. of the Rio -Grande along the par. of 31 deg. 47' N. The position of Frontera, as -decided and agreed upon by the Joint Commission, was lat. 31 deg. 48' -44.31'' N., long. 106 deg. 33' 04.5'' W. That of El Paso, Mex., or more -exactly, of the cathedral in that place, was lat. 31 deg. 44' 15.7'' N., -long. 166 deg. 29' 05.4'' W. Frontera was thus about 4 minutes N. and W. -of El Paso, and the boundary started W. between these two places at a -point 3.41 m. about N. W. of El Paso, and 2.70 m. about S. E. of -Frontera; the total distance between these two places being 6.11 m. As -the Rio Grande itself was the natural boundary agreed upon from the -Gulf of Mexico to the point where the river should intersect the -parallel of 31 deg. 47', the various questions that were to be determined -concerned only the boundary thence W. across country to the Gulf of -California and so on to the Pacific. Two different boundaries were in -diplomatic agreement for some years before either of them was -ascertained on the ground. These were those provided for by the treaty -of Guadalupe Hidalgo, Feb. 2d, 1848, ratified Aug., 1848, and by the -Gadsden treaty of Dec. 30th, 1853, ratified June 30th, 1854. Under the -former of these, two abortive attempts were made to establish two -different lines W. of the Rio Grande; and it was fortunate for us that -neither of them succeeded. The old treaty was made in the dark, on our -part at least, being based upon the ignorance of geography which -Disturnell's map displayed in 1847. The old treaty line started on -paper from the Rio Grande at a point some miles above Frontera, went -W. on a certain parallel of latitude, hypothetical on the ground, for -about 180 m., through the Chiricahua mts., and then turned due N. -along a never-determined meridian till it struck Rio Gila, which was -thence the boundary W. to the Rio Colorado. The line agreed upon by U. -S. Commissioner John B. Weller and General Conde, the Comisionado -Mexicano, started W. from the Rio Grande at a point in the vicinity of -Dona Ana, ran along a parallel for the same distance as the other, and -then turned N. on a meridian to the Gila, striking the latter at a -point further down that river--further N. W., that is, owing to the -difference of longitude of the initial point on the Rio Grande. Both -of these were paper-lines, assumed when the two governments were -feeling for S. and W. borders of New Mexico as laid down on -Disturnell's map; for Article V. of the G. H. '48 treaty provided that -from the intersection of the Rio Grande with the S. border of New -Mexico (wherever that might be) the line should run W. along the whole -S. border of New Mexico, and then turn N. along the W. border of the -same to the Gila. This was decidedly a case of _obscurum per -obscurius_, so far as laying down an actual line was concerned, for -nobody knew where the S. and W. borders of New Mexico were, within -several minutes of latitude and longitude. The Weller-Conde line above -noted started from the Rio Grande at lat. 32 deg. 22', near Dona Ana, and -went due W. upon an assumed S. boundary of N. M. In 1851 such an -initial point had been agreed upon; a monument erected; and actual -survey begun by Col. J. D. Graham. The other assumed S. boundary of N. -M., along which a line was projected W. of the Rio Grande from an -initial point in the vicinity of Frontera, was very near 31 deg. 47'. Both -luckily failed to go into effect. Such a comedy of errors, beginning -on a false basis, was conducted through a tissue of blunders to an -inevitable and fortunate fiasco. The work of the old boundary survey -was prosecuted under a series of commissioners--John B. Weller; John -C. Fremont, who accepted the appointment, but never got on the ground, -and did nothing but resign; John R. Bartlett; and Robert B. Campbell. -It wound up in 1853 as an ignominious and acrimonious failure, for -which net result Congress had appropriated $787,112. This was -expensive, but profitable in the end; for the event proved that a -different boundary would come cheap at that or almost any other price. -Almost down to 1848, the topography of the country between the Rio -Grande and the Colorado of the West was practically unknown to -Americans. But adventurers, traders, and emigrants had begun to set -their faces toward the west along our borders; and the question of the -most practicable southern route became one of great and growing -importance. The War Department put exploring parties in the field; and -through the labors of such officers as Emory, Abert, Parke, Marcy, -Sitgreaves, Simpson, Whipple, Michler, J. E. Johnston, S. G. French, -W. F. Smith, F. T. Bryan, and others, new light was thrown upon a vast -region, to much of which El Paso was the key. Among other things, -Emory developed the fact that there could be no thoroughfare through -U. S. territory in the vicinity of 32 deg. N., the country being -practically impassable by any means of transportation then available -along the parallel of 32 deg., N. of the projected boundary. The G. H. -treaty '48, to use Emory's words, "fixed a line north of that parallel -which cut off entirely the communication by wagons between the rivers -[Rios Grande and Gila]; and leaving out of view the considerations -involved in securing railway routes to the Pacific, it was a line -which sooner or later must have been abandoned. No traveller could -pass, nor could a dispatch be sent, from a military post on the Rio -Bravo to one on the Gila, without passing through Mexican territory." -Our Mexican neighbors evidently knew their country, as well as what -they were about, much better than we did, until we learned to our cost -what the matter was. The already notorious errors of the Disturnell -map made any adjustment of the difficulty on that basis impossible, -and some different understanding between the two countries became an -obvious necessity. This was effected by the Gadsden treaty of 1853, -which provided for the reconstruction of the international line on -paper, and its determination on the ground. By the provisions of this -agreement, the line was to run up the Rio Grande, as already defined -by the G. H. treaty '48, to the point where the middle of the river -should intersect the parallel of 31 deg. 47' N.; thence due W. 100 m.; -thence due S. to the parallel of 31 deg. 20' N.; thence due W. to the -meridian of 111 deg. W.; thence in a straight line to a point on the -Colorado r. 20 English miles below the confluence of the Gila; thence -up the Colorado r. to the intersection of the already existing U. S. -and Mexican line across California to the Pacific. The concessions -represented by these terms were all-important to us; they not only -secured the required practicable highway from the Rio Grande to the -Gila, but added 26,185 sq. m. to U. S. territory, as was discovered -when the line was run. This tract lies between the parallels of 31 deg. -20' and 33 deg. 30' N., and between the meridians of 106 deg. 30' and 114 deg. W.; -it may be called, in a phrase, so much of the U. S. as lies S. of the -Gila, in New Mexico and mainly in Arizona. William Hensley Emory was -commissioned by President Pierce, Aug. 4th, '54, to carry out the -provisions of the treaty on the part of the U. S., and Don Jose -Salazar y Larregui was appointed to the same official functions on the -part of Mexico. Major Emory was required to meet the Mexican -commissioner at El Paso by Oct. 1st, 1854, and the commission took the -field without delay. Congress appropriated $168,130, Aug. 14th, '54, -and $71,450, Mar. 3d, '55; total, $239,580, for running and marking -the line. When the work had been done, Jan. 1st, 1856, Major Emory -reported an unexpended balance of $98,454.59. He had also to turn in, -as unexpended balance of certain appropriations for the old commission -(altogether $58,100), the sum of $37,345.53; total to his credit, -$135,800.12, remaining of the sum of $239,580 + $58,100 = $297,680, of -which he had the disbursement and was responsible. It thus appears -that his whole work cost the government only $161,879.87; it was -finished within the time estimated by the government for its -completion, and largely within the amounts appropriated for the -purpose. The boundary run by Emory and Salazar, respectively, agreed -upon by them jointly, and accepted by both governments, is at present -in effect. It starts from the Rio Grande between El Paso and Frontera, -at 31 deg. 47', and runs W. on that parallel 100 m., to a certain spot -commonly referred to by the name of Carrizalillo, as that of the -nearest named locality; thence it drops meridionally to the parallel -of 31 deg. 20', at a nameless place in the mountains; thence it runs due -W. to the intersection of the 111th meridian at a well-known place, -Los Nogales; whence it runs obliquely to the Colorado r., at a point -which is (roundly) 20 m. S. of Fort Yuma by the channel of the -river--Yuma being on the W. bank, and practically opposite the mouth -of the Gila. Aside from any question of the 25,185 sq. m. and the -desirable right of way thus secured, under the provisions of the -Gadsden treaty, the abrogation of the 11th article of the G. H. treaty -was all-important to the U. S. "This article," to use Major Emory's -words, "made it incumbent on the United States to keep the Indians -living within our own territory from committing depredations on the -Mexicans, and by implication imposed on the United States the -obligation of indemnity for all losses resulting from failure to carry -out the provisions of the treaty. No amount of force could have kept -the Indians from crossing the line to commit depredations, and I think -that one hundred millions would not pay the damages they have -inflicted. Whole sections of country have been depopulated and the -stock driven off and killed; and in entire States the ranches have -been deserted and the people driven into the towns. It is true, all -this has not been done since the war [with Mexico], and would form no -just claim against the United States; but those conversant with the -history of Mexican claims will at once admit that the United States -would have been fortunate if she could have escaped with paying real -claims for depredations, whether committed before or after the war. I -should not be true to history if I did not state what is within my own -personal knowledge--that companies were formed, and others forming, -composed of persons of wealth, influence, and adroitness, who -projected extensive schemes for the purchase of these claims, with the -view of extorting them from the Congress of the United States." Not -the least admirable feature of the present treaty, and one which was -of equal moment to all respectable citizens of both countries, was the -fullness of the powers it vested in the two commissioners. For Art. I. -has: "That line shall be alone established upon which the -commissioners may fix, their consent in this particular being -considered decisive and an integral part of this treaty, without -necessity of ulterior ratification or approval, and without room for -interpretation of any kind by either of the parties contracting." This -kept the dirty hands of professional politicians out of the affair, -and left it to be settled by two honorable and able men, free to act -at their best judgment and discretion, besides being competent to the -requisite scientific work in astronomy and geodesy. The joint -commission, in session on the spot, agreed upon the initial point of -31 deg. 47' N. on the W. bank of the Rio Grande, Jan. 10th, 1855; they -marked it and agreed to erect the monument there. The corner-stone was -laid Jan. 31st, in the presence of each other and of various civil and -military dignitaries. The commissioners reconvened at Fort Bliss, Aug. -14th-16th, 1855, to consider the operations which had meanwhile been -carried on by themselves and their respective assistants; whereupon -they agreed to declare and did declare the line surveyed, marked, and -established as far W. as the 111th meridian, and from the 111th -meridian to the Colorado r.; they further agreed, etc., that the whole -of the line should be declared fully established, etc., and the -field-work concluded, whenever each should notify the other that -certain topographical work then in progress had been completed by -Lieutenant Michler and Senor Jimenez; whereupon, having no further -business, the commission adjourned to meet in Washington, D. C., Apr. -1st, 1856. The required notifications were exchanged Oct. 15th and -Dec. 18th, 1855. The work had been done, and subsequent proceedings -were only in the nature of formalities between the two governments. My -authority for the facts embodied in this note is of course the U. S. -and M. B. S. Report unless otherwise stated. I have been led into this -sketch of affairs of 40 years ago, partly by their intrinsic interest, -but mainly because they show the state of things at a period of time -equidistant between Pike's and the present day. - - - - -CHAPTER II. - -ITINERARY, CONTINUED: THROUGH OLD MEXICO, IN CHIHUAHUA, DURANGO, AND -COAHUILA, TO THE PRESIDIO GRANDE, MARCH 22D-MAY 31ST, 1807. - - -_Sunday, Mar. 22d._ Remained at the Passo. - -_Mar. 23d._ Mass performed; left the Passo at three o'clock, to Fort -Elisiaira [Elizario], accompanied by the lieutenant-governor, the -vicar, and Allencaster, a brother of the governor. Malgares, myself -and the doctor took up our quarters at the house of Capt. [Blank], who -was then at Chihuahua; but his lady and sister entertained us in a -very elegant and hospitable manner. They began playing cards and -continued until late the third day. Malgares, who won considerably, -would send frequently $15 or $20 from the table to the lady of the -house, her sister, and others, and beg their acceptance, in order that -the goddess of fortune might still continue propitious; in this manner -he distributed $500. - -Around this fort were a great number of Appaches, who were on a treaty -with the Spaniards. These people appeared to be perfectly independent -in their manners, and were the only savages I saw in the Spanish -dominions whose spirit was not humbled--whose necks were not bowed to -the yoke of their invaders. With those people Malgares was extremely -popular. I believe he sought popularity with them and all the common -people, for there was no man so poor or so humble, under whose roof he -would not enter; when he walked out, I have seen him put a handful of -dollars in his pocket, and give them all to the old men, women, and -children before he returned to his quarters; but to equals he was -haughty and overbearing. This conduct he pursued through the whole -provinces of New Mexico and Biscay, when at a distance from the seat -of government; but I could plainly perceive that he was cautious of -his conduct as he approached the capital [city of Chihuahua]. I here -left a letter for my sergeant. - -_Mar. 24th._ Very bad weather. - -_Mar. 25th._ The troops marched, but Lt. Malgares and my men remained. - -_Mar. 26th._ Divine service was performed in the morning, in the -garrison, at which all the troops attended under arms. At one part of -their mass, they present arms; at another, sink on one knee and rest -the muzzle of the gun on the ground, in signification of their -submission to their divine master. At one o'clock, we bid adieu to our -friendly hostess, who was one of the finest women I had seen in New -Spain. At dusk arrived at a small pond made by a spring which arose in -the center, called the Ogo mall a Ukap, and seemed formed by -providence to enable the human race to pass that route, as it was the -only water within 60 miles on the route. Here we overtook Sergeant -Belardie with the party of dragoons from Senora and Biscay, who had -left us at Fort Elisiaira, where we had received a new escort. -Distance 20 miles.[II'-1] - -_Mar. 27th._ Arrived at Carracal [Carrizal], at twelve o'clock,[II'-2] -Distance 28 miles; the road well watered and the situation pleasant. -The father-in-law of our friend commanded six or seven years here. -When we arrived at fort, the commandant, Don Pedro Rues Saramende, -received Robinson and myself with a cold bow, and informed Malgares -that we could repair to the public quarters. To this Malgares -indignantly replied that he should accompany us, and turned to go, -when the commandant took him by the arm, made many apologies to him -and us, and we at length reluctantly entered his quarters. Here for -the first time I saw the gazettes of Mexico, which gave rumors of -Colonel [Aaron] Burr's conspiracies, the movements of our troops, -etc.; but which were stated in so vague and undefined a manner as only -to create our anxiety without throwing any light on the subject. - -_Mar. 28th._ Marched at half past three o'clock, and arrived at the -Warm Springs [Ojos Calientes] at sundown; crossed one little fosse on -the route.[II'-3] - -_Sunday, Mar. 29th._ Marched at ten o'clock, and continued our route, -with but a short halt, until sundown, when we encamped without water. -Distance 30 miles.[II'-4] - -_Mar. 30th._ Marched before seven o'clock; the front arrived at water -at eleven o'clock; the mules, at twelve. The spring[II'-5] on the side -of the mountain, to the east of the road, is a beautiful situation. I -here saw the first ash timber I observed in the country. This water is -52 miles from the Warm Springs. Yesterday and to-day saw cabrie -[antelope, _Antilocapra americana_]. Marched 15 miles further and -encamped without wood or water; passed two other small springs to the -east of the road. - -_Mar. 31st._ Marched early and arrived at an excellent spring at ten -o'clock. The roads from Senora, Tanos [qu: Yanos?], Buenaventura, -etc., join about 400 yards before you arrive at this spring.[II'-6] - -Arrived at the village of [hiatus][II'-7] at night, a large and -elegant house, for the country; here were various labors carried on by -criminals in irons. We here met with a Catalonian, who was but a short -time from Spain, whose dialect was such that he could scarcely be -understood by Malgares, and whose manners were much more like those of -a citizen of our Western frontiers than of a subject of a despotic -prince. - -_Apr. 1st._[II'-8] In the morning Malgares dispatched a courier with -a letter to the Commandant-general Salcedo, to inform him of our -approach, and also one to his father-in-law. - -_Apr. 2d._ When we arrived at Chihuahua, we pursued our course through -the town to the house of the general. I was much astonished to see -with what anxiety Malgares anticipated the meeting with his military -chief. Having been on the most arduous and enterprising expedition -ever undertaken by any of his Majesty's officers from these provinces, -and having executed it with equal spirit and judgment, yet was he -fearful of his [Salcedo's] meeting him with an eye of displeasure. He -appeared to be much more agitated than ourselves, although we may be -supposed to have also had our sensations, as on the will of this man -depended our future destiny, at least until our country could -interfere in our behalf. On our arrival at the general's, we were -halted in the hall of the guard until word was sent to the general of -our arrival, when Malgares was first introduced. He remained some -time, during which a Frenchman came up and endeavored to enter into -conversation with us, but was soon frowned into silence, as we -conceived he was only some authorized spy. Malgares at last came out -and asked me to walk in. I found the general sitting at his desk; he -was a middle-sized man, apparently about 55 years of age, with a stern -countenance; but he received me graciously and beckoned to a seat. - -He then observed, "You have given us and yourself a great deal of -trouble." - -_Captain Pike._ On my part entirely unsought, and on that of the -Spanish government voluntary. - -_General Salcedo._ Where are your papers? - -_Captain Pike._ Under charge of Lieutenant Malgares. - -Malgares was then ordered to have my small trunk brought in, which -being done, a Lieutenant Walker came in, who is a native of New -Orleans, his father an Englishman, his mother a French woman, and who -spoke both those languages equally well, also the Spanish. He was a -lieutenant of dragoons in the Spanish service, and master of the -military school at Chihuahua. This same young gentleman was employed -by Mr. Andrew Ellicott,[II'-9] as a deputy surveyor on the Florida -line between the United States and Spain, in the years 1797 and '98. -General Salcedo then desired him to assist me in taking out my papers, -and requested me to explain the nature of each; such as he conceived -were relevant to the expedition he caused to be laid on one side, and -those which were not of a public nature on the other; the whole -either passing through the hands of the general or of Walker, except a -few letters from my lady. On my taking these up, and saying they were -letters from a lady, the general gave a proof that, if the ancient -Spanish bravery had degenerated in the nation generally, their -gallantry still existed, by bowing; and I put them in my pocket. He -then informed me that he would examine the papers, but that in the -meanwhile he wished me to make out and present to him a short sketch -of my voyage,[II'-10] which might probably be satisfactory. This I -would have positively refused, had I had an idea that it was his -determination to keep the papers, which I could not at that time -conceive, from the urbanity and satisfaction which he appeared to -exhibit on the event of our interview. He then told me that I would -take up my quarters with Walker, in order, as he said, to be better -accommodated by having a person with me who spoke the English -language; but the object, as I suspected, was for him to be a spy on -our actions and on those who visited us. - -Robinson all this time had been standing in the guardroom, boiling -with indignation at being so long detained there, subject to the -observations of the soldiery and gaping curiosity of the vulgar. He -was now introduced, by some mistake of one of the aides-de-camp. He -appeared and made a slight bow to the general, who demanded of -Malgares who he [Robinson] was. He replied, "A doctor who accompanied -the expedition." "Let him retire," said the governor; and he went out. - -The general then invited me to return and dine with him, and we went -to the quarters of Walker, where we received several different -invitations to take quarters at houses where we might be better -accommodated; but, understanding that the general had designated our -quarters, we were silent. - -We returned to dine at the palace, where we met Malgares, who, besides -ourselves, was the only guest. He had at the table the treasurer, -Truxillio [qu.: Trujillo?], and a priest called Father Rocus. - -_Apr. 3d._ Employed in giving a sketch of our voyage for the general -and commandant of those provinces. Introduced to Don Bernardo -Villamil; Don Alberto Mayner, lieutenant-colonel, and father-in-law to -Malgares; and Don Manuel Zuloaga, a member of the secretary's office, -to whom I am under obligations of gratitude, and shall remember with -esteem. Visited his house in the evening. - -_Apr. 4th._ Visited the hospital, where were two officers, who were -fine-looking men, and I was informed had been the gayest young men of -the province. They were moldering away by disease, and there was not a -physician in his Majesty's hospitals who was able to cure them; but -after repeated attempts, all had given them up to perish. This shows -the deplorable state of medical science in the provinces. I endeavored -to get Robinson to undertake the cure of these poor fellows, but the -jealousy and envy of the Spanish doctors made it impracticable. - -_Sunday, Apr. 5th._ Visited by Lieutenant Malgares, with a very polite -message from his Excellency, delivered in the most impressive terms, -with offers of assistance, money, etc., for which I returned my -respectful thanks to the general. Accompanied Malgares to the public -walk, where we found the secretary, Captain Villamil, Zuloaga, and -other officers of distinction. We here likewise met the wife of my -friend Malgares, to whom he introduced us. She was, like all the other -ladies of New Spain, a little _en bon point_, but possessed the -national beauty of eye in a superior degree. There was a large -collection of ladies, amongst whom were two of the most celebrated in -the capital--Senora Maria Con. Caberairi, and Senora Margeurite -Vallois, the only two ladies who had spirit sufficient, and their -husbands generosity enough, to allow them to think themselves rational -beings, to be treated on an equality, to receive the visits of their -friends, and give way to the hospitality of their dispositions without -restraint. They were consequently the envy of other ladies, and the -subject of scandal to prudes; their houses were the rendezvous of all -the fashionable male society; and every man who was conspicuous for -science, arts, or arms, was sure to meet a welcome. We, as unfortunate -strangers, were consequently not forgotten. I returned with Malgares -to the house of his father-in-law, Lieutenant-Colonel Mayner, who was -originally from Cadiz, a man of good information. - -_Apr. 6th._ Dined with the general. Writing, etc. In the evening -visited Malgares and the secretary. After dinner wine was set on the -table, and we were entertained with songs in the French, Italian, -Spanish, and English languages. Accustomed as I was to sitting some -time after dinner I forgot their _siesta_, or repose after dinner, -until Walker suggested the thing to me, when we retired. - -_Apr. 7th._ Dined at Don Antonio Caberairi's, [qu.: Cabrera's?] in -company with Villamil, Zuloaga, Walker, etc. Sent in the sketch of my -voyage to the general. Spent the evening at Colonel Mayner's with -Malgares. - -_Apr. 8th._ Visited the treasurer, who showed me the double-barreled -gun given by Governor [Wm. C. C.] Claiborne, and another formerly the -property of [Captain Philip] Nolan [see note 9, p. 657, and legend on -Pike's map]. - -_Apr. 9th._ In the evening I was informed that David Ferro[II'-11] was -in town and wished to speak to me. This man had formerly been my -father's ensign, and was taken with Nolan's party at the time the -latter was killed. He possessed a brave soul, and had withstood every -oppression, since being made prisoner, with astonishing fortitude. -Although his leaving the place of his confinement, the village of St. -Jeronimie [San Jeronimo], without the knowledge of the general, was in -some measure clandestine, yet a countryman, an acquaintance, and -formerly a brother soldier, in a strange land, in distress, had -ventured much to see me--could I deny him the interview from any -motives of delicacy? No; forbid it, humanity! forbid it, every -sentiment of my soul! - -Our meeting was affecting, tears standing in his eyes. He informed me -of the particulars of their being taken, and many other circumstances -since they had been in the country. I promised to do all I could for -him consistently with my character and honor, and their having entered -the country without the authority of the United States. As he was -obliged to leave town before day, he called on me at my quarters, when -I bid him adieu, and gave him what my purse afforded, not what my -heart dictated. - -_Apr. 10th._ In the evening at Colonel Maynor's. Captain Rodiriques -[Rodriguez] arrived from the province of Texas, where he had been -under arrest one year, for going to Natchitoches with the Marquis -Cassa Calvo [Marques de Casa Calva]. - -_Apr. 11th._ Rode out in the coach with Malgares; was hospitably -entertained at the house of one of the Vallois, where we drank London -porter. Visited Secretary Villamil. - -_Sunday, Apr. 12th._ Dined with the doctor, at Don Antonio -Caberarie's, with our usual guests. In the evening at the public -walks. - -_Apr. 13th._ Nothing extraordinary. - -_Apr. 14th._ Spent the forenoon in writing; the afternoon at Don -Antonio Caberarie's. - -_Apr.15th._ Spent the evening at Colonel Maynor's [qu.: Mayron's?] -with our friend Malgares. Wrote a letter to Governor Salcedo on the -subject of my papers.[II'-12] - -_Apr. 16th._ Spent the evening at the secretary's, Don Villamil's. - -_Apr. 17th._ Sent my letter to his Excellency. Spent the evening with -my friend Malgares. - -_Apr. 18th._ Spent the evening at Caberarie's, etc. Wrote to Governor -Allencaster. - -_Sunday, Apr. 19th._ In the evening at a fandango. - -_Apr. 20th._ We this day learned that an American officer had gone on -to the city of Mexico. This was an enigma to us inexplicable, as we -conceived that the jealousy of the Spanish government would have -prevented any foreign officer from penetrating the country; and why -the United States could send an authorized agent to the viceroyalty, -when the Spanish government had at the seat of our government a charge -d'affaires, served but to darken the conjectures. The person alluded -to was Mr. Burling, a citizen of Mississippi Territory, whose mission -is now well known to the government. We likewise received an account -of a commercial treaty having been entered into between Great Britain -and the United States, which by the Dons was only considered as the -preliminary step to an alliance offensive and defensive between the -two nations. - -_Apr. 21st._ Presented the commanding general with a letter for -General Wilkinson, which he promised to have forwarded to the governor -of Texas. - -_Apr. 22d._ Spent the day in reading and studying Spanish; the evening -at Captain Villamil's. - -_Apr. 23d._ Dined at Don Pedro Vallois'; spent the evening with -Colonel Maynor; bade him adieu, as he was to march the next day. In -the evening received a letter from the commandant-general, informing -me my papers were to be detained, giving a certificate of their -numbers, contents, etc.[II'-13] - -_Apr. 24th._ Spent the evening at Zuloaga's with his relations. About -sundown an officer of the government called upon me, and told me that -the government had been informed that, in conversations in all -societies, Robinson and myself had held forth political maxims and -principles which, if just, I must be conscious if generally -disseminated would in a very few years be the occasion of a revolt of -those kingdoms; that those impressions had taken such effect that it -was no uncommon thing, in the circles in which he associated, to hear -the comparative principles of a republican and a monarchical -government discussed, and even the allegiance due, in case of certain -events, to the court called in question; that various characters of -consideration had indulged themselves in those conversations, all of -whom were noted and would be taken care of; but that, as respected -myself and companion, it was the desire of his Excellency that while -in the dominions of Spain we would not hold forth any conversations -whatsoever, either on the subject of religion or politics. - -I replied that it was true I had held various and free conversations -on the subjects complained of, but only with men high in office, who -might be supposed to be firmly attached to the king, and partial to -the government of their country; that I had never gone among the poor -and illiterate, preaching up republicanism or a free government; that -as to the catholic religion, I had only combated some of what I -conceived to be its illiberal dogmas; that I had spoken of it in all -instances as a respectable branch of the Christian religion which, as -well as all others, was tolerated in the United States; and that, had -I come to that kingdom in a diplomatic character, delicacy toward the -government would have sealed my lips; or had I been a prisoner of war, -personal safety might have had the same effect; but, being there in -the capacity which I was, not voluntarily, but by coercion of the -Spanish government, which at the same time had officially notified me -that they did not consider me under any restraint whatever; therefore, -when called on, I should always give my opinions freely, either as to -politics or religion; but at the same time with urbanity, and a proper -respect to the legitimate authorities of the country where I was. - -He replied, "Well, you may then rest assured your conduct will be -represented in no very favorable point of view to your government." - -I replied, "To my government I am certainly responsible, and to no -other." - -He then left me. I immediately waited on some of my friends and -notified them of the threat, at which they appeared much alarmed. We -went immediately to consult [Malgares], who, to great attachment to -his friends, joined the most incorruptible loyalty and the confidence -of the government. Our consultation ended in a determination only to -be silent and watch events. - -We suspected [Walker] to be the informant, but whether just in our -suspicion or not, I will not pretend to determine; for Robinson and -myself frequently used to hold conversations in his presence, -purposely to have them communicated; but he at last discovered our -intentions, and told us that if we calculated on making him a carrier -of news, we were mistaken; that he despised it. - -_Apr. 25th._ At eleven o'clock I called on his Excellency, but was -informed that he was engaged. About three o'clock I received a message -from him by Lieutenant Walker, informing me that he was surprised I -had not returned, and to call without ceremony in the evening; which I -did, and presented him with a letter.[II'-14] He then also candidly -informed me my party would not join me in the territory of the king of -Spain, but that they should be attended to punctually, and forwarded -on immediately after me; and requested that I should give orders to my -sergeant to deliver up all his ammunition, and dispose in some manner -of the horses of which he had charge. I stated in reply that, with -respect to the ammunition, I would give orders to my sergeant to -deliver, if demanded, all they possessed, more than was necessary to -fill their horns; but that as to the horses, I considered their loss -was a charge which must be adjusted between the two governments, and -therefore should not give any directions respecting them, except as to -bringing them on as far and as long as they were able to travel. He -then gave me an invitation to dine with him on the morrow. - -_Sunday, Apr. 26th._ Dined at the general's. In the evening went to -Malgares', Zuloaga's, and others'. Wrote to my sergeant and Fero; to -the latter of whom I sent $10, and to the other $161.84, to purchase -clothes for the party. We had been for some time suspicious that the -doctor was to be detained; but this evening he likewise obtained -permission to pursue his journey with me, which diffused general joy -through all the party. - -_Apr. 27th._ Spent the day in making arrangements for our departure, -writing to the sergeant, etc. - -I will here mention some few anecdotes relative to [Walker], with whom -we boarded during our stay in Chihuahua. When we came to the city we -went to his quarters, by order of the general, and considered -ourselves as guests, having not the least idea that we should be -charged with board, knowing with what pleasure any American officer -would receive and entertain a foreign brother soldier situated as we -were, and that we should conceive it a great insult to be offered pay -under similar circumstances. But one day, after we had been there -about a week, he presented to me an account for Robinson's and my -board, receipted, and begged, if the general inquired of me, that I -would say I had paid it. This naturally led me to demand how the thing -originated. He with considerable embarrassment observed that he had -taken the liberty to remark to the general that he thought he should -be allowed an extra allowance, in order to be enabled to treat us with -some little distinction. The general flew into a violent passion, and -demanded if I had not paid him for our board? To which the other -replied, No, he did not expect pay of us. He ordered him immediately -to demand pay, to receive it, sign a receipt, and lodge it in his -hands; and added that he would consult me if [to ascertain whether] -the thing was done. This he never did; yet I took care, every Sunday -after that, to deposit in the hands of Walker a sum which was -considered the proportion for Robinson and myself. Malgares and -several others of the Spanish officers having heard of the thing, -waited on us much mortified, saying with what pleasure they would have -entertained us had not the designation of the general pointed out his -will on the subject. - -[Walker] had living with him an old negro, the only one I saw on that -side of St. Antonio, who was the property of some person who resided -near Natchez, and who had been taken with Nolan. Having been -acquainted with him in the Mississippi country, he solicited and -obtained permission for old Caesar to live with him. I found him very -communicative and extremely useful. The day I arrived, when we were -left alone, he came in, looked around at the walls of the room, and -exclaimed, "What! all gone?" I demanded an explanation, and he -informed me that the maps of the different provinces, as taken by -[Walker] and other surveyors, had been hung up against the walls; but -that the day we arrived they had all been taken down and deposited in -a closet which he designated. - -W[alker] gave various reasons for having left the United States and -joined the Spanish service; one of which was, his father having been -ill-treated, as he conceived, by G. at Natchez. At Chihuahua he had -charge of the military school, which consisted of about 15 young men -of the first families of the provinces; also of the public water-works -of the city, on a plan devised by the royal engineer of Mexico; of the -building of a new church; of the casting of small artillery, -fabrication of arms, etc. Thus, though he had tendered his -resignation, they knew his value too well to part with him, and would -not accept of it, but still kept him in a subordinate station, in -order that he might be the more dependent and the more useful. -Although he candidly confessed his disgust at their service, manners, -morals, and political establishments, yet he never made a -communication to us which he was bound in honor to conceal; but on the -contrary fulfilled the station of informer, which in that country is -considered no disgrace, with great punctuality and fidelity. In this -city the proverb was literally true, that "the walls have ears"; for -scarcely anything could pass that his Excellency did not know in a few -hours. - -In the evening I was notified to be ready to march the next day at -three o'clock. - -_Apr. 28th._ In the morning Malgares waited on us, and informed us he -was to accompany us some distance on the route. After bidding adieu to -all our friends, we marched at a quarter past three o'clock, and -encamped at nine o'clock at a stony spring; passed near Chihuahua a -small ridge of mountains, and then encamped in a hollow.[II'-15] - -As we were riding along, Malgares rode up to me and informed me that -the general had given orders that I should not be permitted to make -any astronomical observations. To this I replied that he well knew I -never had attempted making any since I had been conducted into the -Spanish dominions. - -_Apr. 29th._ Arrived at a settlement [Horcasitas or Bachimba?] at -eight o'clock; plenty of milk, etc. - -When about to make my journal, Malgares changed color, and informed me -it was his orders I should not take notes; but added, "you have a -good memory, and when you get to Cogquilla [Coahuila] you can bring it -all up." At first I felt considerably indignant, and was on the point -of refusing to comply; but thinking for a moment of the many -politenesses I had received from his hands induced me merely to bow -assent with a smile. We proceeded on our route, but had not gone far -before I made a pretext to halt, established my boy as a vedet -[vidette], sat down peaceably under a bush, and made my notes. This -course I pursued ever after, not without some very considerable degree -of trouble to separate myself from the party. - -Arrived at the fort of St. Paul at eleven o'clock, situated on a small -river of the same name, the course of which is N. E. by S. W. At the -time we were there the river was not wider than a mill stream; but -sometimes it is 300 yards wide, and impassable. Distance 30 -miles.[II'-16] - -_Apr. 30th._ Marched at six o'clock, and at eleven arrived at -[Saucillo, on] the river Conchos--24 miles; beautiful green trees on -its banks. I was taken very sick at half past ten o'clock. Arrived at -night at a small station [Las Garzas] on the river Conchos, garrisoned -by a sergeant and 10 men from Fort Conchos, 15 leagues up said river. -Distance 43 miles.[II'-17] - -_May 1st._ Marched up the Conchos to its confluence with the river -Florada [Rio Florido], 15 leagues from where we left the former -[Conchos] river, and took up the latter [Rio Florido], which bears -from the Conchos S. 80 deg. and 50 deg. E. On its banks are some very -flourishing settlements, and they are well timbered. A poor miserable -village [Santa Rosalia] is at the confluence. Came 10 miles up the -Florada to dinner, and at night stopped at a private house. This -property or plantation was valued formerly at $300,000, extending on -the Florada, from the small place where we slept on the 30th of April, -30 leagues up said river. Distance 45 miles.[II'-18] - -Finding that a new species of discipline had taken place, and that the -suspicions of my friend Malgares were much more acute than ever, I -conceived it necessary to take some steps to secure the notes I had -taken, which had been clandestinely acquired. In the night I arose, -and after making my men charge all their pieces well, I took my small -books and rolled them up in small rolls, tore a fine shirt to pieces, -and wrapped it round the papers, and put them down in the barrels of -the guns, until we just left room for the tompoins [tampons], which -were then carefully put in; the remainder we secured about our bodies -under our shirts. This occupied about two hours, but was effected -without discovery and without suspicions. - -_May 2d._ Marched early, and in 41/4 hours arrived at -Guaxequillo,[II'-19] situated on the river Florada, where we were to -exchange our friend Malgares for Captain Barelo, who was a Mexican by -birth, born near the capital and entered as a cadet at Guaxequillo -near 20 years past, and who, by his extraordinary merits, being a -Creolian, had been promoted to a captaincy, which was even by himself -considered his ultimate promotion. He was a gentleman in his manners, -generous and frank, and I believe a good soldier. - -_Sunday, May 3d._ At Guaxequillo the captain gave up his command to -Malgares. At night the officers gave a ball, at which appeared at -least sixty women, ten or a dozen of whom were very handsome. - -_May 4th._ Don Hymen Guloo arrived from Chihuahua, accompanied by a -citizen and a friar, who had been arrested by order of the -commandant-general, and was on his way to Mexico for trial. - -_May 5th._ The party marched with all the spare horses and baggage. - -_May 6th._ Marched at five o'clock; ascended the river four miles, -when we left it to our right and took off S. 60 deg. E., eight miles. Our -friend Malgares accompanied us a few miles, to whom we bade an eternal -adieu, if war does not bring us together in the field of battle -opposed as the most deadly enemies, when our hearts acknowledge the -greatest friendship. Halted at ten o'clock, and marched again at four. -No water on the road; detached a Spanish soldier in search of some, -who did not join us until twelve o'clock at night. Encamped in the -open prairie; no wood; no water, except what the soldier brought us in -gourds. The mules came up at eleven o'clock at night. Distance 30 -miles.[II'-20] - -_May 7th._ Marched very early; wind fresh from the south. The -punctuality of Captain Barelo as to hours was remarkable. Arrived at -half past nine o'clock at a spring [Ojo S. Bernarde of Pike's map?], -the first water from Guaxequillo. The mules did not unload, but -continued on nine miles to another spring [Ojo S Blas of Pike's map] -at the foot of a mountain, with good pasturage round it; mountains on -each side all day.[II'-21] - -_May 8th._ Marched, at five miles due west, through a gap in the -mountains; then turned S. 20 deg. E., and more south to a [Cerro Gordo or -Andabazo] river about 20 feet wide, with high steep banks; now dry -except in holes, but sometimes full and impassable. Halted at seven -o'clock and sent on the loaded mules. Marched at five o'clock; came -ten miles and encamped without water. Distance 18 miles.[II'-22] - -_May 9th._ Marched between four and five o'clock and arrived at Pelia -[Pelayo] at eight.[II'-23] This is only a station for a few soldiers, -but is surrounded by [copper] mines. At this place are two large warm -springs, strongly impregnated with sulphur, and this is the water -obliged to be used by the party who are stationed there. Here we -remained all day. Captain Barelo had two beeves killed for his and my -men, and charged nothing to either. Here he received orders from the -general to lead us through the wilderness to Montelovez [Monclova], in -order that we should not approximate to the frontiers of Mexico, which -we should have done by the usual route of Pattos [Patos], Paras -[Parras], etc. - -_Sunday, May 10th._ Marched past one copper mine [Oruilla], now -diligently worked. At this place the proprietor had 100,000 sheep, -cattle, horses, etc. Arrived at the Cadena,[II'-24] a house built and -occupied by a priest. It is situated on a small stream at the pass of -the [Sierra de las Mimbres] mountains, called by the Spaniards [Puerta -de Cadena, or] Door of the Prison, from its being surrounded with -mountains. The proprietor was at Sumbraretto [Sombrerito], distance -six days' march. This hacienda was obliged to furnish accommodations -to all travelers. - -Marched at five o'clock, passed the chain of mountains due east [in -the direction of Mapimi] 12 miles, and encamped without water. -Distance 31 miles. - -_May 11th._ Marched and arrived at Maupemie [Mapimi[II'-25]] at eight -o'clock, a village situated at the foot of mountains of minerals, -where they worked eight or nine mines. The mass of the people were -naked and starved wretches. The proprietor of the mines gave us an -elegant repast. Here the orders of Salcedo were explained to me by the -captain. I replied that they excited my laughter, as there were -disaffected persons sufficient to serve as guides should an army ever -come into the country. - -Came on three miles further, where were fig-trees and a fruit called -by the French La Grain [_sic_], situated on a little stream which -flowed through the gardens, and formed a terrestrial paradise. Here we -remained all day sleeping in the shade of the fig-trees, and at night -continued our residence in the garden. We obliged the inhabitants with -a ball, who expressed great anxiety for a relief from their present -distressed state, and a change of government. - -_May 12th._ Was awakened in the morning by the singing of the birds -and the perfume of the trees around. I attempted to send two of my -soldiers to town [Mapimi], but they were overtaken by a dragoon and -ordered back; on their return I again ordered them to go, and told -them if a soldier attempted to stop them to take him off his horse and -flog him. This I did, as I conceived it was the duty of the captain to -explain his orders relative to me, which he had not done; and I -conceived that this would bring on an explanation. They were pursued -by a dragoon through the town, who rode after them, making use of ill -language. They attempted to catch him, but could not. As I had -mentioned my intention of sending my men to town after some stores to -Captain Barelo, and he had not made any objections, I conceived it was -acting with duplicity to send men to watch the movements of my -messengers. I therefore determined they should punish the dragoons -unless the captain had candor sufficient to explain his reasons for -not wishing my men to go to town, in which wish I should undoubtedly -have acquiesced; but as he never mentioned the circumstance, I was -guardedly silent, and the affair never interrupted our harmony. - -We marched at five o'clock; came on 15 miles and encamped without -water. One mile on this side of the little village[II'-26] the road -branches out into three. The right-hand one by Pattos, Paras, Saltelo -[Patos, Parras, Saltillo], etc., is the main road to [the city of] -Mexico and San Antonio [in Texas]. The [middle] road which we took -leaves all the villages a little to the right, passing only some -plantations. The left-hand one goes immediately through the mountains -to Montelovez, but is dangerous for small parties on account of the -savages; this road is called the route by the Bolson of Maupeme, and -was first traveled by Monsieur de Croix, afterward viceroy of Peru. In -passing from Chihuahua to Texas, by this [left-hand] route, you make -in seven days what it takes you 15 or 20 by the ordinary one; but it -is very scarce of water, and your guards must either be so strong as -to defy the Appaches, or calculate to escape them by swiftness; for -they fill those mountains, whence they continually carry on a -predatory war against the Spanish settlements and caravans. - -We this day passed on to the territories of the Marquis de San Miquel -[Miguel], who owns from the mountains of the Rio del Norte to some -distance in the kingdom of Old Mexico. - -_May 13th._ Came on to the river Brasses [Rio Nasas,[II'-27] on which -was the] Ranche de St. Antonio, part of the marquis' estate. My boy -and self halted at the river Brasses to water our horses, having -ridden on ahead, and took the bridles from their mouths in order that -they might drink freely, which they could not do with the Spanish -bridles. The horse I rode had been accustomed to being held by his -master in a peculiar manner when bridled, and would not let me put it -on again for a long time; in the meantime my boy's horse ran away, and -it was out of our power to catch him again. But when we arrived at -the Ranche,[II'-28] we soon had out a number of boys, who brought in -the horse and all his different equipments, which were scattered on -the route. This certainly was a strong proof of their honesty, and did -not go unrewarded. In the evening we gave them a ball on the green, -according to custom. We here learned that one peck of corn, with three -pounds of meat per week, was the allowance given a grown person. - -_May 14th._ Did not march until half past four o'clock [p. m.]. About -nine o'clock [a. m.] an officer arrived from St. Rosa[II'-29] with 24 -men, with two Appaches in irons. They were noble-looking fellows, of -large stature, and appeared by no means cast down by their -misfortunes, although they knew their fate was transportation beyond -the sea, never more to see their friends and relations. - -Knowing as I did the intention of the Spaniards toward those people, I -would have liberated them if in my power. I went near them, gave them -to understand we were friends, and conveyed to them some articles -which would be of service if chance offered. - -This day the thermometer stood at 30 deg. Raumauer [Reaumur], 991/2 deg. -Fahrenheit. The dust and drought of the road obliged us to march in -the night, when we came 15 miles and encamped without water. Indeed, -this road which the general obliged us to take is almost impassable at -this season for want of water, whilst the other is plentifully -supplied. - -_May 15th._ Marched early and came on five miles, when we arrived at a -pit dug in a hollow, which afforded a small quantity of water for -ourselves and beasts.[II'-30] Here we were obliged to remain all day -in order to travel in the night, as our beasts could enjoy the benefit -of water. Left at half past five o'clock and came on 15 miles by -eleven o'clock, when we encamped without water or food for our beasts. -Passed a miserable burnt-up soil. Distance 20 miles. - -_May 16th._ Marched two miles and arrived at a wretched habitation [El -Pozo?], where we drew water from a well for all the beasts. Marched in -the evening and made 15 miles further [_sic_]. The right-hand road we -left on this side of Maupeme [Mapimi], and joined it about four miles -further. Distance 15 [_sic_] miles.[II'-31] - -_Sunday, May 17th._ Marched; about seven o'clock came in sight of -Paras [Parras], which we left on the right and halted at the Hacienda -of St. Lorenzo, a short league to the north of said village.[II'-32] -At the Hacienda of St. Lorenzo was a young priest, who was extremely -anxious for a change of government, and came to our beds and conversed -for hours on the subject. - -_May 18th._ Marched early and came through a mountainous tract of -country, well watered, with houses situated here and there amongst the -rocks. Joined the main road at a Hacienda of [Cienega Grande], -belonging to the Marquis de San Miquel [Miguel]; good gardens and -fruit; also a fine stream.[II'-33] The mules did not arrive until late -at night, when it had commenced raining. - -_May 19th._ Did not march until three o'clock, the captain not being -very well. He here determined to take the main road, notwithstanding -the orders of General Salcedo. Came on 10 miles [vicinity of Rancho -Nuevo and Castanuela[II'-34]]. Met a deserter from Captain [Francis] -Johnston's company [then probably of the 2d Infantry]. He returned, -came to camp, and begged me to take him back to his company; but I -would not give any encouragement to the scoundrel--only a little -change, as he was without a farthing. - -_May 20th._ Came to the Hacienda of Pattos [Patos] by nine o'clock. -This is a handsome place, where the Marquis De San Miquel [Miguel] -frequently spends his summers, the distance enabling him to come from -[the City of] Mexico in his coach in 10 days. Here we met the Mexican -post-rider going to Chewawa [Chihuahua]. Don Hymie [Hymen], who had -left us at Paras [Parras], joined in a coach and six, in which we came -out to a little settlement called the Florida, one league from Pattos, -due north. Distance 18 miles.[II'-35] - -The Hacienda of Pattos was a square inclosure of about 300 feet, the -building being one story high, but some of the apartments were -elegantly furnished. In the center of the square was a jet d'eau, -which cast forth water from eight spouts, extended from a colossean -female form. From this fountain all the neighboring inhabitants got -their supply of water. The marquis had likewise a very handsome -church, which, with its ornaments, cost him at least $20,000; to -officiate in which, he maintained a little stiff superstitious priest. -In the rear of the palace, for so it might be called, was a fish-pond, -in which were immense numbers of fine fish. The population of Florida -is about 2,000 souls. This was our nearest point to the city of -Mexico. - -_May 21st._ Marched down the [San Antonio] water-course over a rough -and stony road about 10 miles, when we left it on the right [crossed -it from E. to W.], and came on eight miles further to a horse-range of -the marquis', where he had four of his soldiers as a guarda caballo -[herders]. Halted at half past nine o'clock.[II'-36] At this place we -had a spring of bad water. - -_May 22d._ Marched [north] at three o'clock; came on 16 miles to a -small shed, and in the afternoon to la Rancho, eight miles to the left -of the main road, near the foot of the mountain, where was a pond of -water, but no houses. Some Spanish soldiers were here. We left Pattos -mountain on our left and right, but here there was a cross mountain -[El Monte de los Tres Rios] over which we were to pass in the -morning.[II'-37] - -The marquis maintains 1,500 troops to protect his vassals and property -from the savages. They are all cavalry, as well dressed and armed as -the king's, but are treated by the king's troops as if vastly -inferior. - -_May 23d._ Marched early and came to a spring in the mountain.[II'-38] - -_Sunday, May 24th._ Marched at an early hour and passed through [El -Paso de los Tres Rios in] the mountains, where there was scarcely any -road, called the Mountain of the Three Rivers. At the 13th mile joined -the main road, which we had left to our right on the 22d instant, and -in one hour after came to the main Mexican road from the eastern -provinces; thence northwest to the Rancho, nine miles from Montelovez, -whence the captain sent in an express to give notice of our -approach.[II'-39] - -_May 25th._ In the afternoon Lieutenant Adams, commandant of the -company of Montelovez, arrived in a coach and six to escort us to -town, where we arrived about five o'clock. In the evening visited -Captain de Ferara [qu.: Don Juan Joaquin de Ferrero?], commandant of -the troops of Cogquilla, and inspector of the five provinces. - -Lieutenant Adams, who commanded this place, was the son of an Irish -engineer in the service of Spain. He had married a rich girl of the -Passo del Norte, and they lived here in elegance and style, for the -country. We put up at his quarters and were very hospitably -entertained. - -_May 26th._ Made preparations for marching the next day. I arose -early, before any of our people were up, and walked nearly round the -town; and from the hill took a small survey, with my pencil and a -pocket compass which I always carried with me. Returned and found them -at breakfast, they having sent three or four of my men to search for -me. The Spanish troops at this place were remarkably polite, always -fronting and saluting when I passed. This I attributed to their -commandant, Lieutenant Adams. - -_May 27th._ Marched at seven o'clock, after taking an affectionate -leave of Don Hymen, and at half past twelve arrived at the Hacienda of -Don Melcher [Michon on the map], situated on the same stream of -Montelovez.[II'-40] - -Don Melcher was a man of very large fortune, polite, generous, and -friendly. He had in his service a man who had deserted from Captain -Lockwood's[II'-41] company, first regiment of infantry, by the name -of Pratt. From this man he had acquired a considerable quantity of -crude indigested information relative to the United States, and when -he met with us his thirst after knowledge of our laws and institutions -appeared to be insatiable. He caused a fine large sheep to be killed -and presented to my men. - -_May 28th._ Marched early and arrived at Encina Hacienda[II'-42] at -ten o'clock. This place was owned by Don Barego [Borages on the map]. - -When we arrived at the Hacienda of Encina, I found a youth of 18 -sitting in the house quite genteelly dressed, whom I immediately -recognized from his physiognomy to be an American, and entered into -conversation with him. He expressed great satisfaction at meeting a -countryman, and we had a great deal of conversation. He sat at a table -with us and partook of a cold collation of fruits and confectionery; -but I was much surprised to learn, shortly after we quit the table, -that he was a deserter from our army; on which I questioned him, and -he replied that his name was Griffith; he had enlisted in -Philadelphia, arrived at New Orleans, and deserted as soon as -possible; the Spaniards had treated him much better than his own -countrymen, and he should never return. I was extremely astonished at -his insolence, and mortified that I should have been betrayed into any -polite conduct toward the scoundrel. I told him that it was -astonishing he should have had the impertinence to address himself to -me, knowing that I was an American officer. He muttered something -about being in a country where he was protected, etc.; on which I told -him that if he again opened his mouth to me, I would instantly -chastise him, notwithstanding his supposed protection. He was silent; -I called up one of my soldiers and told him in his hearing, that if he -attempted to mix with them to turn him out of company; which they -executed by leading him to the door of their room a short time after, -when he entered it. When dinner was nearly ready, I sent a message to -the proprietor, that we assumed no right to say whom he should -introduce to his table, but that we should think it a great indignity -offered to a Spanish officer to attempt to set him down at the same -board with a deserter from their army; and that if the man who was at -the table in the morning were to make his appearance again, we should -decline to eat at it. He replied that it was an accident which had -produced the event of the morning; that he was sorry our feelings had -been injured, and that he would take care he [Griffith] did not appear -again whilst we were there. - -Our good friend Don Melcher here overtook us, and passed the evening -with us. - -This day we passed the last mountains, and again entered the great -Mississippi valley, it being six months and 13 days since we first -came in sight of them. Distance 20 miles. - -_May 29th._ Marched at seven o'clock and came to the Millada river and -a Rancho. [Distance 20 miles.[II'-43]] - -_May 30th._ Marched at five o'clock and arrived at the Sabine river at -eight; forded it. Marched in the evening at four o'clock, at ten -encamped at the second ridge without water. Distance 27 miles.[II'-44] - - -_Sunday, May 31st._ Marched early and at nine o'clock arrived at a -Rancho on fine running water; course east and west. Marched eight -miles further to a point of woods, and encamped. No water. Distance 23 -miles.[II'-45] - -FOOTNOTES: - -[II'-1] The difficulty of trailing Pike in Mexico is twofold. His -notes, hasty and stealthy under the circumstances, are necessarily -meager, and rather excite than satisfy our curiosity to know more. -Worse than this, all the maps of Mexico are poor. I have probably -before me the best maps that exist; they do not compare with those we -have used for most parts of Pike's route. The most helpful one I have -found is that in Senate Misc. Doc. No. 26, 30th Cong., 1st Sess., -accompanying a Memoir of a Tour to Northern Mexico, connected with -Col. Doniphan's Expedition, in 1846 and 1847, by A. Wislizenus, M. D., -Washington, Tippin and Streeper, 1848, 8vo, pp. 141. The author was a -German scientist, interested in geography, geology, and botany. He -went over much of the identical route which Pike traveled,--as far as -Parras, near Saltillo,--and has left a luminous itinerary, for the -publication of which we are indebted to the good sense of Thomas H. -Benton. This I shall draw heavily upon, and wish to make my grateful -compliments to its author in the beginning of this route. - -The _Fort_ "Elisiaira" which Pike has just left must not be confounded -with the place on the river called Elizario, Eleazario, Elceario, -etc., and described in my last note. He is starting S., on the main -road, and the place where the gambling dovetailed so well with -religion was the Presidio San Elizario, on the boundary between the -then Provinces of North Mexico and New Biscay. Two roads led from El -Paso to Carrizal, the principal place en route to Chihuahua. One of -these went down the Rio Grande for several miles before it turned S. -from that river, taking this roundabout way to avoid Los Medanos (the -Sand Hills, of which more presently). The other, which Pike took, went -directly S., approximately by the way the railroad goes now. To the -right is a range of mountains; the valley of the Rio Grande recedes to -the left; the way is over a sandy, shrubby plain, in some places so -strewn with a kind of white limestone as to have given the name Tierra -Blanca. Camp is at the place which Pike calls by the extraordinary -term of "Ogo mall a Ukap" and charts as "Ojo Malalka." Both these -terms are otherwise rendered Ojo de Malayuque and Samalayuca; and all -these, with others I could cite, are forms of the name of the same -spring or pool which was a usual first camp out from El Paso. It was -in most seasons a necessary halt, on account of water in this long -arid stretch, as well as a desirable one to make before encountering -the Sand Hills. Pike charts two other bodies of water, off the road to -the right or W., by the names of "Lago de la Condelaria" and "Lac de -Susma"; there are several such, in fact, known as Palomas, Guzman, -Durazno, Santa Maria, etc. Guzman is the same word as Pike's "Susma," -and a personal name very well known indeed in Mexican history; but -whether the same lake is another question. Candelaria is the present -name of a station on the railroad below Los Medanos. - -[II'-2] Pike gives us nothing from Samalayuca to Carrizal, and we must -fill the lacuna from other sources of information. The way grows -gradually hillier and sandier, till it becomes all hills and sands. -These are Los Medanos, dreaded for the difficulty of hauling loaded -wagons through them, though not so bad on horseback or with -pack-mules. Gregg describes the entourage, Comm. Pra., II. 1844, p. -79, as "a stupendous ledge of sand-hills, across which the road passes -for about six miles. As teams are never able to haul the loaded wagons -over this region of loose sand, we engaged an _atajo_ of mules at El -Paso, upon which to convey our goods across. These Medanos consist of -huge hillocks and ridges of pure sand, in many places without a -vestige of vegetation. Through the lowest gaps between the hills the -road winds its way." This description calls to mind the Medano or -Sand Hill Pass: see note 39, p. 491. Wislizenus is even more vivid, -Mem. p. 44: "Having arrived at the foot of the sand hills, we -commenced travelling very slow. There was nothing around us but the -deepest and purest sand, and the animals could only get along in the -slowest walk, and by resting at short intervals. At last my animals -were exhausted; they would move no more, and we had not yet reached -half of our way. In this dilemma I put my own riding-horse to the -wagon. Mr. Jacquez lent me some additional mules, and forward we moved -again. In the meanwhile dark night had come on, illuminated only by -lightning, that showed us for a while the most appalling -night-scene--our wagons moving along as slow and solemn as a funeral -procession; ghastly riders on horseback, wrapped in blankets or -cloaks; some tired travellers stretched out on the sand, others -walking ahead, and tracing the road with the fire of their cigarritos; -and the deepest silence, interrupted only by the yelling exclamations -of the drivers, and the rolling of distant thunder. The scene was -impressive enough to be remembered by me: but I made a vow the same -night, that whenever I should undertake this trip again, I would -rather go three days around, than travel once more over the sand hills -with a wagon. About midnight, at last we reached the southern end of -the sand hills, and encamped without water." - -This bad place was about 6 m. Beyond it, some 15 (?) m., is a fine -spring of water a few yards to the left, called Ojo Lucero or Venus' -spring. A place on the railroad in this vicinity is named Rancheria. -Further on is seen, at some distance to the right of the road, a -square mound 20 feet high, with a warm spring on its level top. Beyond -this, on the left, is Laguna de Patos, or Duck l., a considerable body -of water, which is the sink of the Rio Carmen. The other road from El -Paso to Carrizal joins the main road in this vicinity. San Jose is a -place on the railroad, opposite this lake. Off to the right, in the -mountain chain above mentioned, rises a conspicuous picacho. Carrizal -is a small town, like most places in Mexico (pop. 300 or 400 in 1839), -but for some time supported a presidio or garrison as a protection -from Indians, and was also walled in; but neither of these defenses -seems to have troubled the Apaches much. Turning to Pike's map, we -find he marks "Presidio de Carracal" on a branch of a large "Rio de -Carracal," which he runs N. E. into the Rio Grande. But this is the -Carmen r. just said, which runs into Duck l. not far from where Pike -makes it head, and probably never reaches the Rio Grande. Yet it is -liable to freshets and may greatly overflow its usual limits. Gregg -struck one when he passed this way in 1839 and describes it, _l. c._: -"Just as we passed Lake Patos, we were struck with astonishment at -finding the road ahead of us literally overflowed by an immense body -of water, with a brisk current, as if some great river had suddenly -been conjured into existence by the aid of supernatural arts. A -considerable time elapsed before we could unravel the mystery. At last -we discovered that a freshet had lately occurred in the streams that -fed Lake Patos and caused it to overflow its banks, which accounted -for this unwelcome visitation. We had to flounder through the mud and -water for several hours before we succeeded in getting across." The -spring which Pike marks "Ojo de Lotario" (Lothario) is that above -named as Lucifer or Venus; and the hill delineated close by it is -probably intended for the mound above said. He marks the road which -leads from Carrizal to Sonora "Camino a Senora." - -[II'-3] Pike's "little fosse" is no doubt the acequia below Carrizal. -Ojo Caliente is present name of a station on the railroad between -Carmen station and Las Minas; and the warm springs where Pike camps -are those at or near Alamo de Pena, 10-12 m. below Carrizal, a mile -short of the crossing of Rio Carmen. Gregg and Wislizenus both -describe the springs in similar terms, as forming a large basin of -clear, pure, lukewarm water in porphyritic rocks, with a sandy bottom, -fed from various sources, and overrunning in a rivulet into the -Carmen. "It forms," says Gregg, Com. Pra., II. p. 80, "a basin some 30 -feet long by about half that width, and just deep and warm enough for -a most delightful bath at all seasons of the year. Were this spring -... anywhere within the United States it would doubtless soon be -converted into a place of fashionable resort." Wislizenus determined a -temperature of 82 deg. F., the air being 841/2 deg. F. Hughes in Doniphan's -Exp., p. 108, also describes the spring and states that it was -formerly the seat of a princely hacienda, "belonging to Porus, a -Spanish nabob," who at one time had on his estate 36,000 head of -stock. - -[II'-4] A long, hard march over a plain waterless except in rainy -weather, and a dry camp; for though Pike is past the place he marks -"Les Coquillas," he stops short of the Ojo de Callejon. - -[II'-5] This spring is found on various maps by the names of -"Gallejo," "Gallego," etc., also applied to a station on the railroad. -Hughes gives the word as "Guyagas." I suppose the proper name to be -Ojo de Callejon, which might be translated Pass spring--for the -mountains on each side of the road here close in somewhat, leaving a -pass or _puerta_ between them. Otherwise, the word is _callejo_ or -_calleyo_, meaning pitfall. This spring is off to the left, and -sometimes discharges water enough to make a rivulet, which crosses the -road. One of the other two springs which Pike speaks of passing is no -doubt that known as Callejito. - -[II'-6] The text does not agree with the map, for on the latter a -"Camino a Senora" (road to Sonora) is brought into an unnamed "Ojo" -which Pike has already passed. There may have been more than one such -road. In any event, the spring which Pike passes on the 31st is that -marked on his map "Aqas nueva," _i. e._, Aguas Nuevas or Agua Nueva. A -station on the railroad has the latter name. - -[II'-7] The hiatus in the text is to be filled by El Penol or Hacienda -del Petrero; Pike marks "Delpetrero" on his map, the last place he -notes before reaching Chihuahua. Neither of those names appears on the -late maps before me, but both were formerly employed for the -well-known locality. Wislizenus maps El Penol, where he camped Aug. -22d, 1846, and speaks of the place as a large hacienda, 28 m. from his -last camp (probably the same as Pike's of the 30th) and about 40 m. -from Chihuahua. "The creek of the same name passing by the hacienda is -the principal affluent of the lake of Encinillas; by the rains it was -swelled to a torrent, and its roaring waves, rushing over all -obstacles, sounded in the stillness of night like a cataract." Pike -has not a word of this lake, though it is usually a conspicuous -feature of the great plain he has just traversed, to the W. of the -road. He maps it, quite small, by the name of "Lago de S^n. Martin." -Laguna de las Encinillas, in English Lake of Live Oaks, is a body of -water whose extent varies greatly according to season and the weather, -being sometimes 15 or 20 m. long, though usually less than this; -Wislizenus estimated its length when he saw it to be 15 m., with a -width of 3 m. on an average. Gregg says, _tom. cit._, p. 81: "This -lake is ten or twelve miles long by two or three in width, and seems -to have no outlet during the greatest freshets, though fed by several -small constant-flowing streams from the surrounding mountains. The -water of this lake during the dry season is so strongly impregnated -with nauseous and bitter salts as to render it wholly unpalatable to -man and beast. The most predominant of these noxious substances is a -species of alkali, known there by the title of _tequesquite_. It is -often seen oozing out from the surface of marshy grounds, about the -table plains of all Northern Mexico, forming a grayish crust, and is -extensively used in the manufacture of soap, and sometimes by the -bakers even for raising bread." - -[II'-8] As Pike has not a word of the route from El Penol to -Chihuahua, we may supply the omission from other sources. The approach -to the capital presented then, as it does now, a number of both -artificial and natural features. There were several settlements, as, -for instance, Encinillas at the S. end of the lake, and Sauz beyond -this. Both of these are places to be found marked by the same names -now; the railroad runs through them. Further on, the road crossed the -Arroyo Seco, usually a dry gulch, as its name says, but sometimes a -creek not easily crossed, owing to depth of water. It flows eastward -to fall into the Sacramento a few miles below. About 3 m. beyond this -arroyo is the valley of the Sacramento, memorable since the battle -which was won by the Americans under Colonel Doniphan on Sunday the -28th of February, 1847. Says Wislizenus, Mem. p. 47: "The mountains -above the Sacramento approach each other from the east and west, and -narrow the intermediate plain to the width of about six miles; and on -the Sacramento itself, where new spurs of mountains project, to about -3 miles. The road from the Arroyo Seco to the Sacramento leads at -first over a high plain; but as soon as the Sacramento comes in sight, -it descends abruptly to its valley and to the left bank of the creek. -Near where the road begins to descend, a ravine, with an opposite long -hill, runs to the left or east of it, and a level plain spreads out to -the right or west of it. On the hill towards the east was a continuous -line of batteries and intrenchments, and the principal force of the -Mexican army was there collected. On the opposite plain from the west, -the American troops, who had above the Arroyo Seco already turned to -the right to gain a more favorable position, advanced in open field -against their entrenched and far more numerous enemies. How the -American artillery with the first opening of their fire struck terror -into the Mexican ranks; how the brave Missourians then, on horseback -and on foot, acted by one impulse, rushed through the ravine up to the -cannon's mouth, and, overthrowing and killing everything before them, -took one battery after the other, till the whole line of entrenchments -was in their possession and the enemy put to complete flight; how they -crossed from here to the Sacramento and stormed on its right bank the -last fortified position, on a steep hill, till not a Mexican was left -to oppose them, and all their cannon, ammunition, and trains were -abandoned to the victors--these are facts well known in the history of -that campaign, and will immortalize the brave volunteers of Missouri." -A full account of the battle is given by the historian of Doniphan's -Expedition, p. 110 _seq._, with a plan of the ground. The U. S. forces -were 924 all told, with 6 pieces of artillery; their loss was 1 killed -and 11 wounded, 3 mortally. The Americans had 140 additional men, -teamsters and others, raising the total to 1,164. Of the 924, 117 were -of the artillery, 93 were of an escort, and the remainder of the 1st -Regt. Missouri mounted volunteers. The Mexicans had 4,224 men, and 16 -pieces of artillery; their loss was 320 killed, 560 wounded, 72 -prisoners. Hughes' article cited includes Colonel Doniphan's official -report. - -The Sacramento is the stream upon two small tributaries of which -Chihuahua is situated, at their junction, about 20 m. from the scene -described. The river is usually fordable. The road leads over a level -plain, which widens somewhat southward, down the valley of the river, -with steep, rough mountains on either hand. The capital first comes in -sight about 10 m. off, in a sort of pocket where the mountains come -together from each side, as if to close up the valley below; but there -is an outlet to the E. through which the Sacramento r. runs to join -the Rio Conchos. - -[II'-9] B. Bucks Co., Pa., Jan. 24th, 1754, of Quaker parentage (his -father was one of those who had land on the Patapsco, and founded -Ellicott's Mills, now Ellicott City, near Baltimore, Md., 1774); -became a distinguished astronomer, surveyor, and civil engineer, and -died professor of mathematics at West Point, N. Y., Aug. 29th, 1820. -He did an immense amount of surveying and boundary-running, mostly of -important and official public character, in New York, Pennsylvania, -Maryland, Virginia, and elsewhere; in 1790, was directed by Washington -to lay out the city of that name; in 1792 became surveyor-general of -the U. S.; and in 1796 was appointed by Washington U. S. Commissioner -under the treaty of San Lorenzo el Real, to run the southern boundary -between the U. S. and New Spain. This is the work to which Pike -alludes, though he is a little out in his dates, as witness the -following title: The Journal of Andrew Ellicott, late Commissioner on -behalf of the United States during part of the year 1796, the years -1797, 1798, 1799, and part of the year 1800: for determining the -boundary between the United States and the possessions of his Catholic -Majesty in America, containing, ... etc., Philada., Budd and Bartram, -1803, 1 vol. 4to, pp. i-viii, 1-299, with 6 maps, and Appendix, pp. -1-151, 1 leaf errata, and 8 more maps. Ellicott wrote this book, -excepting the Appendix, at Lancaster, Pa., June to Nov., 1802; and -while he was there in 1803 he coached Captain Meriwether Lewis in the -use of astronomical instruments: see L. and C., ed. 1893, p. xxii and -p. xxiv. Going down the Ohio to the scene of his official functions, -Dec. 17th, 1796, Ellicott says, p. 21: "I passed the mouth of the -Tennesee, and in two hours afterwards arrived at Fort Massac, and was -politely received by the commandant Captain Pike," etc. This was -Zebulon Pike, father of Zebulon M.: see the Memoir, _antea_. The fort -stood on the N. (right) bank, about lat. 37 deg. 14'; early F. history -obscure and not all of it authentic; site supposed to have been first -occupied _ca._ 1711: see Beck's Gaz., 1823, p. 114, and John Reynolds' -Own Times, 2d. ed. p. 16, with description of the place as it was in -1855. In descending the Ohio in 1758 the F. officer Aubry halted on -the N. bank, at the old site, called 36 m. above the mouth of the -river, to build a new post, which was garrisoned with 100 men and -called Fort _Marsiac_ after the first commandant. Thus the name is not -Massac, as usually said, and still less is it derived from the -apocryphal _massacre_ which various historians have exploited. This -fort was the last establishment of the F. on the Ohio, being kept up -till they evacuated the country under the Treaty of Paris, 1763; it -was a U. S. post till after the war of 1812-14, and during our -occupancy became known as the old Cherokee fort. Pike alludes in the -present work to a certain _Nolan_, who is easy to identify, but not to -find out much about. Ellicott met him at the mouth of the Ohio, in -Jan., 1797: "Mr. Philip Nolan, so well known for his athletic -exertions, and dexterity in taking wild horses, stopped at our camp on -his way from New Madrid to fort Massac," says this author, p. 29, with -a footnote stating that Nolan "was killed by the Spaniards in the -spring of 1801," after taking a very active part in various -disturbances in that quarter. Ellicott passed down the Miss. r., past -the Chickasaw bluffs (L. and C., ed. 1893, p. xl. and p. lii), and at -Natchez encountered a bigger bluff in the shape of an individual who -described himself in his pronunciamentos as his Excellency Francis -Lewis Hector, Baron de Carondelet, Knight of the Order of Malta, Major -General of his Armies, Commandant General of Louisiana and West -Florida, Inspector of the Troops, Militia, etc., etc., etc. (though -what his triplicate etceteras were is not given to ordinary mortals to -know). This climacteric functionary was supported by a lesser luminary -who filled the role of Don Manuel Gayoso de Lemas, Brigadier of the -Royal Armies, Governor of Natchez and its dependencies, with three-ply -etceteras as before (though he was dead before Aug., 1799). These two -formidable obstructions to navigation, as an engineer might say, were -not overcome by our surveyor-general for nearly a year, during which -period they kept him busy with Spanish diplomacy. As I read the -correspondence it seems to have largely consisted in saying they hoped -God would bless and keep him forever, when they really hoped the devil -would fly away with him before breakfast; and he had to silence both -the caterwauling choristers before he could proceed with his -scientific work. This he was free to do on the Spanish evacuation of -the forts at Natchez and Nogales (Walnut Hills) in Jan., 1798. - -[II'-10] This paper was given in full in the App. to Pt. 3, of which -it originally formed Doc. No. 13, pp. 73-77, and will be found beyond. - -[II'-11] David Fero, Jr., of New York, was an ensign of the 3d -sub-Legion from May 12th, 1794, to Nov. 1st, 1796, when he was -assigned to the 3d Infantry, in which he became a lieutenant Oct. 3d, -1798, and from which he resigned July 22d, 1799. - -[II'-12] This appeal and remonstrance was given in the App. to Pt. 3, -where it originally formed Doc. No. 14, pp. 78, 79, dated Apr. 14th; -it will be found beyond. - -[II'-13] These papers, originally forming Docs. Nos. 15 and 16, were -given in the App. to Pt. 3, pp. 79-82, and will be found beyond. - -[II'-14] This letter appeared in the App. to Part 3, where it -originally formed Doc. No. 17, pp. 82, 83, dated Apr. 4th, and will be -found beyond. - -[II'-15] Mapula or vicinity--perhaps on the spot noted in Wislizenus' -itinerary of Doniphan's vanguard, Apr. 25th, 1847, Mem. p. 62: "They -made on that day but 14 miles, and encamped at Coursier's hacienda, -near Mapula. This place is to the right of the usual road, and about -five miles out of the way, but has to be resorted to for want of -water, if one does not intend to go in one trip as far as Bachimba, -the nearest watering place on the road, and 32 miles from Chihuahua." -Mapula is marked on modern maps as on the railroad, S. E. from -Chihuahua, while a Fresno appears to the right, due S. from that city. -Pike is to follow the present railroad for many miles, but more or -less inexactly. His "small ridge of mountains" is passed about 4 m. S. -of Chihuahua; this is a range of hills which encompass the city on -that side, and command a fine view. On crossing them, the main road -runs S. E. in a valley 10 m. wide, bounded E. and W. by mountain -ridges, with Coursier's hacienda and Mapula off to the right. About 20 -m. from Chihuahua these ridges hem the valley so closely as to form a -canyon 5 or 6 m. long and 1 m. or less wide; Wislizenus notes a spring -and ranche in this canyon; [qu.: now called Horcasitas?] Bachimba is in -the plain, about 5 m. off the canyon, on a fine running stream; in 1847 -it was a hacienda with a dozen houses. - -[II'-16] Pike marks the fort "P[residio] de S^n. Paubla," and the -river "Rio S^n Paubla," without prejudice to the gender of the holy -person concerned. Modern Ortiz is about the site of the Presidio San -Pablo, on the railroad, on the N. or left bank of the river; the -latter is present Rio San Pedro, a large branch of the Conchos which -falls in above Julimes. About 10 m. S. of Bachimba the road forked; -the right-hand fork went S. S. E., to Santa Cruz de Rosales, which was -said to contain 5,000 inhabitants in itself and vicinity in 1847; it -is on the Rio San Pedro, 8 m. higher up than San Pablo, to which the -left-hand road leads S. E. The latter is the one Pike took; it is -shorter than the other; both come together before Saucillo is reached. -In 1847 San Pablo was reported to be "a flourishing place, with about -4,000 inhabitants": Wislizenus, Mem. p. 63. Rio San Pedro is a fine -stream, over 100 m. long, heading in the mountains on the W. The plain -or valley which it traverses, and in which both the roads above -mentioned lie, has a varying width of 25-35 m. - -[II'-17] Pike struck Rio Conchos where the railroad does now--at -Saucillo, or El Saucillo, a town on the left or W. bank of the river; -the "24 miles" from San Pablo to this place is about right. This march -was through the same valley as yesterday's, with a good but not such a -level road, as the mountains approach each other near Saucillo, -leaving S. of it a gap through which the road continues into the next -valley. The night's small station is less easily identified, but was -no doubt at Las Garzas or in that immediate vicinity, where the -Conchos is crossed. A Mexican league is supposed to be 5,000 varas (of -about 33 inches each = about 4,583 yards, or nearly 2-2/3 m.), but in -itineraries is usually found to be less than this. Las Garzas (Sp. -_garzas_, "herons") is an obscure place not to be found on many modern -maps; it is beyond Concho and La Cruz (both of which are points on the -railroad). Wislizenus notes it on his journey, Mem. p. 64: "We passed -through la Cruz, a small town, and further below [further S., but -higher up Rio Conchos], through las Garzas, a smaller place yet, where -we crossed the Conchos." It is the place marked "Pres[idio]" on Pike's -map, which is probably in error in marking the trail as continuing up -the left bank of the Conchos. - -Rio Conchos is the principal river of Chihuahua, over 400 m. long, and -with its many tributaries watering much of the State. The name is said -to be derived from its shells (Sp. _conchas_), and I have seen Shell -r. in print. It makes a long loop southward before turning N., and -then runs about N. E. into the Rio Grande at Presidio del Norte--a -place also called Presidio de las Juntas (lettered "Santas" on Pike's -map) from the confluence of the two rivers. Rios Florido and San Pedro -are its principal tributaries. Pike lays down the Conchos pretty well: -notice particularly its northward course on the W. of the mountains, -along what is called on his map "Puerta de la Virgin." - -[II'-18] Pike's route of May 1st probably crossed the Conchos at or -near Las Garzas, and continued approximately up the right or E. bank -of that river to the confluence of Rio Florido, opp. Santa Rosalia, -the "poor miserable village" of the text, which stood on a hill in the -point between the two rivers; its present name is the same; the -railroad passes it now. Writing of Apr. 30th, 1847, Wislizenus has, -Mem. p. 65: "Santa Rosalia is a town of about 5,000 inhabitants; it -lies on a hill about 100 feet higher than the river, and towards the -S. spreading out on a small plateau. Here, on the southern end of the -town, the Mexicans had erected a fort against General Wool, when his -division was expected to march towards Chihuahua." The town is not -marked on Pike's map, which, moreover, gives his trail as crossing the -Conchos there and the Florido higher up, though the usual road comes -up the right bank of the Conchos and crosses the Florido at or near -the mouth of the latter, to continue E. S. E. up its left side. Rio -Florido is the largest branch of the Conchos, having itself various -tributaries, as R. de Barral, falling in near Bustamente, and R. -Allende, with Jimenez near its mouth; the railroad crosses both of -these at the places said. Neither of these streams appears on Pike's -map. The place where he dined seems to be about that marked Santa Rita -on his map. This I do not recognize; but it cannot have been far from -Bustamente. The evident confusion of distances in the text makes it -probably impossible to identify the "private house" at which he slept. -La Ramada was a small place on the Rio Florido, about 24 m. from Santa -Rosalia. He seems to have come beyond this point, perhaps to the -vicinity of present Jimenez (on the railroad). His legend "Camion de -Monaseo" presumably stands for Camino de Monasterio (Monastery road). - -[II'-19] Or Guajuquilla: a well-known place on the right or S. bank of -the river, marked on Pike's map as a presidio or fortified town. A -citation from Wislizenus, Mem. p. 65, will throw some further light on -the situation: "Made a strong march to-day [May 3d, 1847] of 33 miles -[from La Ramada], to _Guajuquilla_. The road was constantly winding -itself through endless chaparral; the Rio Florido on the left, and -mountains and hills east and west, in the distance, from 10 to 20 -miles. About half way we passed a rancho with some water; farther on -the road forks; the right hand road leads directly to the town; the -other by a large hacienda [qu.: where Pike slept last night?]. Before -Guajuquilla we crossed the Florido, and passing through town encamped -south of it. Guajuquilla looks more like a town than any other place -we have seen so far, on the road from Chihuahua; its population is -from 6 to 7,000." Three miles S. of this town was the Hacienda de -Dolores, "a large estate with well irrigated and cultivated fields"; a -place on the railroad is now marked "Dolores." Thence the road -continued for a jornada of about 50 m. without water. Pike will -proceed upon this on the 6th, the party having been sent ahead on the -5th. - -[II'-20] An unidentifiable place on the jornada, short of the first -water from Guajuquilla. - -[II'-21] Pike's map marks the first spring on the road as "Ojo S. -Bernarde" and the next as "Ojo S Blas"--names which appear to be -transposed from the order in which they come in other itineraries of -this route. Thus Wislizenus, Mem. p. 66: "About eight miles from our -to-night camp, we passed a spring, with a water-pool, in a ravine to -the left of our road; but the water was so muddy and brackish, that -the animals refused to drink, or rather to eat it. This spot is known -as _San Antonio camp_. Three miles further, a few deserted houses, and -a spring on the right hand of the road (_San Blas_), are found; but -the water is equally bad, and of sulphureted taste. The first good -water, and in sufficient quantity, is met about five miles beyond San -Blas, in _San Bernardo_, a deserted rancho, with willows and cotton -trees, built against a steep mountain wall, from whence a fine creek -takes its origin. A small plain half a mile below the rancho contains -also some springs and water-pools, and good grass. We pitched our camp -in this plain. We have travelled to-day, according to my estimate, -about 40 miles [_i. e._, from a dry camp about 20 m. from the Hacienda -de Dolores, near Guajuquilla]." It is clear that Wislizenus is on -Pike's trail, and that they have reached what is practically the same -camp--near the San Bernardo spring of the former's narrative, or the -San Blas spring of the latter's map; and that the spring which Pike -speaks of as the "first water from Guaxequillo" and maps as San -Bernarde spring, was either the San Antonio camp or the San Blas -spring of Wislizenus. The situation is considerably off the present -railroad, and the above names are not to be found on ordinary modern -maps. But my identifications are confirmed by the fact that both -travelers, on decamping next day, cross a mountain gap or pass and -soon come upon a river: see next note. - -[II'-22] The mountain Pike passes, and the river he crosses, are -easily identified; the latter is the stream known as El Andabazo (or -Cerro Gordo), with a town of the latter name higher up on it. This is -the first of several streams we shall cross, running to the left as we -go, and sinking in the Bolson de Mapimi--for they are all beyond the -Conchos basin, the divide of which was passed in the course of the -long dry jornada above noted. The lake that the Cerro Gordo cr. sinks -in is sometimes called Laguna de Xacco: so Hughes, Don. Exp., 1847, p. -129. The trail Pike followed is thus described by Wislizenus, p. 66: -"We started late, and made but 10 miles, to the _Cerro Gordo_, or _el -Andabazo_ creek. Having crossed the mountain, at whose foot San -Bernardo lies, we went for a mile through a canyon, with mountains of -limestone on both sides, and from there into another valley, watered -by the el Andabazo. This considerable creek seems to run from -southwest to northeast." The obscure town of Cerro Gordo above named -must not be confounded with the place in Vera Cruz which was the scene -of the famous battle of Cerro Gordo. - -Pike has now passed the present interstate boundary between Chihuahua -and Durango. The line runs on a parallel of latitude from Lago de -Tlahualila 60 Mex. leagues W. to a source of Rio del Fuerte near -Huenote. Pike maps Lake Tlahualila conspicuously: see the large sheet -of water laid down in the Bolson Mapimi across which is legended "Here -the Indians sallied forth to attack New Biscay and Cohuahuila," and -which has a large forked stream running into it from the S. The main -fork of this is the present Rio de Nasas, which actually discharges -into Laguna del Muerto; so Pike's body of water represents both Lake -Tlahualila and the Lake of the Dead, as well as some smaller sheets, -as Laguna del Cayman, etc., all lying in the same general depression. -Pike mentions "Lac du Cayman" elsewhere and correctly says that Rio -Nassas (which he also calls Brassos) falls into it. L. de Parras, -however, he lays down separately, with its own river discharging into -it. The boundaries of Chihuahua, Durango, and Coahuila all meet in -Lake Tlahualila, whence that between Durango and Coahuila runs S. for -a few miles and then S. E., while that between Chihuahua and Coahuila -extends N. along the border of the Bolson to the Rio Grande. - -[II'-23] Pelayo is the best-known place we have come to since leaving -Guajuquilla, and easily found on modern maps by this name; it appears -on Pike's map as "P[residio]. Pelia," and has been more fully called -Hacienda de San Jose de Pelayo. The name is thus a personal one, -though some have derived it from Sp. _pelar_, to boil, scald, with -reference to the hot sulphur springs. (One Pelayo, Latinized Pelagius, -founded the monarchy of Asturias in Spain early in the eighth century -A. D. The form Palayo is also found.) The place is on the main road, -about 25 m. from the crossing of Andabazo cr. "Pelayo," says -Wislizenus, p. 67, "is a small village, or hacienda, with several good -springs around it; some of common, others of higher temperature. The -creek formed by them is, according to the Mexican statements, -afterwards lost in the sand.... In Pelayo, a small but steep hill was -fortified on the top, by walls of stone. This fortification was -probably intended against General Wool's army. Two days before us -[_i. e._, May 5th, 1847] Lieutenant Colonel Mitchell had arrived here -with the vanguard [of Doniphan's troops], and seeing the inhabitants of -the place organized as a military company, he made 30 of them prisoners, -and took their arms from them; but upon their representation that they -would by this act become a prey to the surrounding Indians, he -restored them their arms, under the condition that they be used only -for defence against Indians." That series of creeks flowing to the -left, two of which have thus far been mentioned, are all crossed by -the railroad, much E. of Pike's route; four places at or near which -such crossings occur are named Escalon, Zavalza, Conejos, and -Peronal--the two former in Chihuahua, the two latter in Durango, and -the last of these being nearest the railroad crossing of the creek -which flows through La Cadena, as about to be noted. - -[II'-24] La Cadena is present name of a place on or near the fourth -one of the small streams above noted, considerably off (?) the modern -main road--say 20 m. S. W. of Peronal, and 25 m. due W. of Mapimi. It -is reached by a rough mountain road 18 m. from Pelayo, past the copper -mine of Oruilla; the hacienda there, of which Pike speaks as being so -rich in stock, had been deserted when Wislizenus passed in 1847. The -creek comes from the Sierra de las Mimbres, on the W. Another steep -range rises about 3 m. E. of La Cadena; the gap between the two is the -Pass of Cadena, Puerta de Cadena, or "Door of the Prison," through -which Pike goes to-day due E. in the direction of Mapimi. - -[II'-25] Lettered "Maupeme" on the map, and so rendered in the text -beyond; same word as that in Pike's legend "Bolson de Mapini"; now -usually spelled Mapimi. Hughes writes Malpimi. The meaning of the word -is unknown, as it probably would not be were it of Spanish derivation; -its most frequent use is in the phrase Bolson de Mapimi, applied to -very extensive tracts of low-lying ground encompassed with mountains, -chiefly in the states of Chihuahua and Coahuila, but also overreaching -into Durango. _Bolson_ is a Spanish word which means various things, -among them "purse," "pouch," or "pocket," and seems to be applied here -in the same way that we use the word "hole" for several different -valleys in our Rocky mts. Mapimi, as the designation of a particular -place, is still the name of the town Pike comes to, now on the -railroad, about 15 m. by rail from Peronal, and about 20 m. by the -road he came from La Cadena Pass. It is thus the place where the -highway and the railroad come together. The situation is the eastern -part of an extensive valley some 20 m. wide and 35 m. long from N. to -S., surrounded on all sides by mountains yielding silver mines. "Two -springs, called Espiritu Santo and Agua de Leon, form here [at Mapimi] -a creek, which runs through the town in an eastern direction," -Wislizenus, _l. c._ This seems to be the stream that "formed a -terrestrial paradise" for Pike--as well it might, with the Holy Ghost -re-enforcing Ponce de Leon. Wislizenus found Mapimi "rather deserted," -May 9th, 1847; but the artillery "fired a salute, in honor of the -anniversary of the battle of Palo Alto" (fought May 8th, 1846). Pike's -camp of the 11th of May, 3 m. E. of Mapimi, was snug under the eastern -mountain chain, whence it was about 2 m. through a canyon into another -valley forming a part of the series of the Bolson de Mapimi. - -[II'-26] "The little village" is not named. Pike's map makes the -triple forking of the road he is about to mention in the immediate -vicinity of Mapimi; but this appears to be an error, as he was already -3 m. beyond that town when he started on the 12th. His map is -otherwise so far out of drawing that it does help us much more than -the slender thread of text to discover exactly what way Captain Barelo -took him around the Bolson to Parras. The precise stages of the -journey to Parras would probably be recoverable by one thoroughly -familiar with the ground; but it is impossible for me to trace the -route upon any map I have been able to find. The only road laid down -on the best map before me runs down the Rio Nasas past San Lorenzo to -Mayron, at the Laguna del Muerto, into which that river sinks, and -thence to Pozo (Pozzo) and Parras. From the railroad junction at -Torreon the track runs at a distance from, but approximately parallel -with, the river and the road just indicated, through places marked -Matamoras, Colonia, and Hornos, to Mayron and thence to Pozo. -Wislizenus speaks of a place apparently about where Pike comes to on -the 12th, where the road forks, and describes a "northern" and a -"southern" route. The northern one, he says, leads by Alamito, San -Lorenzo, and San Juan (all on the Rio Nasas) to El Pozo; it is thus -identical with or very nearly the same as the one just said to descend -the Rio Nasas. The southern one, he says, would have taken him by San -Sebastian, on the Nasas, to Gatuno, Matamoras (or la Bega de Maraujo), -Santa Mayara, by the Laguna de Parras to Alamo de Parras, St. Domingo, -and Pena, to El Pozo, and thence to Parras. I think that Pike's route -coincides most closely with this one; it is for the most part S. of -the railroad, passing close to the Laguna de Parras (the sink of the -Rio Guanabel); and when we find him at Parras, on the 17th, he is -almost due E. of the place where he crossed the Rio Nasas, at an -air-line distance therefrom of nearly or about 40 Mexican leagues--say -100 m. - -The "Monsieur de Croix" above named is Teodoro de Croix, b. at Lille, -Flanders, about 1730, d. at Madrid, Spain, Apr. 8th, 1791; he was -viceroy of Peru from Apr., 1784, to Mar., 1790; he had previously -served as commandant of the interior provinces and of Sonora, under -his elder brother, Carlos Francisco de Croix, Marques de Croix, and -viceroy of New Spain, 1766-1771. See the legend of his route on Pike's -map. - -[II'-27] "Brasses" and "Brassos" are Pike's rendering of Brazos, name -of a great river in Texas, but the stream here meant by "Brasses" is -Rio Nasas (or Nazas), which flows into Laguna del Muerto, in Coahuila. -This he elsewhere calls Nassas and Nassus; saying that it runs into -Lake Cayman, and forms part of the boundary between Cogquilla -(Coahuila) and New Biscay (his name for Chihuahua, though he means -Durango). He also charts it conspicuously, but much out of drawing: -see his map, first river E. of Mapimi, with "Rancho S^n Antonio" there -lettered. Some of my maps, running back 40 years, apply the name Nazas -to that other stream (Rio Guanabal) which sinks in Laguna de Parras, -and which Pike also charts, greatly out of position; but he is correct -in his identification of the Nasas. This is a notable stream in -Durango and Coahuila, which has been called "the vein and center of -the Bolson" by Wislizenus, who says further, p. 69: "San Sebastian is -a hacienda on the left bank of the Nasas river, and about 35 miles -from Mapimi. The Nasas is here quite a deep and respectable stream, -while further down it becomes flat, and disappears sometimes entirely -in the sand. It comes about 150 leagues from the western part of the -State of Durango, from the so-called Sianori mountains.... The Nasas -is the Nile of the Bolson de Mapimi; the wide and level country along -the river is yearly inundated by its rising, and owes to that -circumstance its great fertility." - -On crossing Rio Nasas, or at a point on his road in that vicinity, -Pike passes from the present State of Durango into that of Coahuila; -but we have no mileage for the 13th. He never leaves Coahuila till he -enters the Texas of his day, close to present San Antonio de Bexar, -Tex. He never touches Nuevo Leon at any point. - -[II'-28] El Rancho de San Antonio, already indicated as on the Rio -Nasas, but exact location in question. I cannot find the name on any -modern map. It does not seem to be the same place as the San Sebastian -mentioned by Wislizenus. But the general locality is near the present -interstate boundary of Coahuila and Durango, not far from the place -where the two railroads cross each other, known as El Torreon (The -Tower). - -[II'-29] Santa Rosa, one of the principal Coahuilan towns, about -half-way between Monclova and Presidio del Rio Grande, on waters of -the Upper Rio Sabinas, and on the road which General Wool took during -the invasion of Mexico. - -[II'-30] See Pike's map, place legended "Well of Putrid Water." - -[II'-31] The text is contradictory concerning mileage, and ambiguous -in the matter of the road which came in. The place whence water was -drawn is that legended "Well of Mineral Water" on Pike's map. I am not -sure that this is El Pozo of various maps and itineraries before me, -called "Pozzo" on the most modern ones; but am inclined to think it -is. Pozo is a well-known place where the railroad now crosses a -highway, and whence there is a regular road S. W. to Alamos de Parras, -and another S. E. to Parras itself. Under date of May 13th, 1847, -Wislizenus has, Mem. p. 71: "We travelled to-day 25 miles from San -Juan to _el Pozo_. The road was more gravelly than sandy, at first -quite level, afterwards slightly ascending. A few miles to our right a -steep mountain chain was running parallel with our road; to the left -rose more distant mountains.... About half way we passed by a deserted -rancho, 'Refugio,' with a well. Near El Pozo the valley becomes -narrower." Dr. W. describes a fight with Lipan Indians which had -occurred at Pozo two days before, and continues, p. 72: "_El Pozo_ -(the well) is a hacienda, belonging to Don Manuel de Ibarra, and -consists of but one large building, in which many families live. The -place is distinguished for its ingenious water-works. It consists of a -deep and very spacious well, from which the water is drawn by mule -power in the following way: Over a large wheel in the upper part of -the well a strong and broad band of leather is stretched, moving -around with the wheel; to the band, in regular distances, many buckets -of leather are attached, which, by the equal circular motion of the -wheel and the band, are descending on one side of the well, and fill -themselves with water, while they are drawn up on the other side, and, -emptying their water into a basin, return again to the well. To -receive the drawn water, two large basins of stone, about 40 feet wide -and 100 feet long, have been made, and on the outside of the basins -runs a long line of troughs, all of stone, for the watering of the -animals.... The same Indians which our men fought here, the Lipans, -used to frequent this well very freely, and carried their impudence -even so far that they notified the Mexicans at what time they wanted -to have the basins full, and the Mexicans did not dare to disobey. -Although the idea of this water-wheel is by no means a new one, it is -certainly very simply and well executed, and the more gratifying to -the traveller, as this is the only watering place between San Juan and -Parras, a distance of about 50 miles." - -[II'-32] No mileage for the 17th; but Paras is a notable place, easily -discovered on ordinary maps. Sp. _parras_ means grapevines, especially -such as are trained on a trellis, and various vineyards have given -geographical names in Mexico, as Laguna de Parras, Alamo de Parras, -etc. The latter is a phrase coming near what is meant by our -traditional "vine and fig-tree"; it now designates a place further W., -not to be mistaken for Parras itself. "Paras" and the San Lorenzo -hacienda above said are both marked on Pike's map; the latter must not -be confused with present town of San Lorenzo on Rio Nasas, much -further W. The map is entirely out of drawing in these parts, but not -irrecognizably, and we can make the requisite adjustments. In -particular, Laguna de Parras is put down over 100 m. from its true -position, and the course of its feeder (Rio Guanabal) is still further -out of the way. His route passed near this laguna, between it and -Laguna del Muerto. We must not forget that he was traveling under -compulsion, propulsion, and perpetual irritation--circumstances -unfavorable to the accuracy of such notes as he could take by stealth -and afterward supplement from memory, and under which he could not be -expected to improve Humboldt's map! - -Some extracts from Dr. Wislizenus, Mem. pp. 72, 73, will give a better -idea of Parras than Pike's glimpse affords: "_May 14_ [1847]. We left -[Pozo] this morning for _Parras_, in the State of Coahuila.... Our -road ran parallel with a near mountain chain on the right, and was -mostly ascending. In the latter part of our march we saw from a hill -Parras, at the foot of the same chain, which here makes a bend towards -southeast. The first sight of the town reminded me of el Paso, on -account of the great many gardens and vineyards that surround it. -Entering the town, I was struck with the luxuriant growth of -pomegranates, figs, and fruits of all sorts, and with the enormous -height and circumference of the common opuntias and agaves, which I -had already seen in the State of Chihuahua, but much smaller. The -opuntias had trunks of one foot in diameter, and the agave americana -grew to the height of from 10 to 15 feet, making excellent hedges. The -town itself was much handsomer than I had expected. It has some fine -streets, with old substantial buildings, a large 'plaza,' and a -general appearance of wealth and comfort. We encamped in the Alameda, -a beautiful public walk, shaded with cotton trees and provided with -seats of repose. Early in the morning a concert of thousands of birds, -many mockingbirds among them, that live here quite undisturbed, awoke -us from our slumber. These Alamedas, fashionable in all the Mexican -cities, do honor to the general taste of the Mexicans for flowers, -gardens, and natural embellishments. To prevent any injury to the -trees our horses were kept outside the Alameda. Parras was probably -built towards the end of the seventeenth century, and received its -name from its vine, parra meaning vine-branch. The cultivation of the -vine is at present a principal object of industry in Parras. The -vineyards are mostly on the hilly slopes of the limestone mountains -west of town. They produce a white and a red wine, both of very -pleasant taste, resembling somewhat the wine of el Paso, but more -heating and stronger.... We rested in Parras two days, and left it on -the morning of _May 17_, on our road to Saltillo. From Parras we -marched about five miles in an eastern direction, through a a plain, -to _San Lorenzo_, or, as it is commonly called, _Hacienda de Abajo_, a -large, splendid hacienda, belonging to the above mentioned Don Manuel -de Ibarra. The road from el Pozo leads directly to this place; by -going to Parras, several leagues are lost." This "lower hacienda" is -the one which Pike names above, and where he camps to-night. - -[II'-33] No distance or direction given, and no place named--but we -can discover Pike by extraneous means. Dr. Wislizenus says, p. 73: -"From here [San Lorenzo] the road was winding over a hilly and rocky -country, till we arrived in _Cienega Grande_, a hacienda of Don Rey de -Guerrero, (25 miles from Parras.)" This is no doubt the place Pike -reaches, on his way to Patos. The unnamed hacienda of the text is so -marked on his map, on the above "fine stream." This creek requires -attention. Pike lays it down as one of the headwaters of Rio Tigre, -also called Rio San Francisco del Tigre, which he mistakes it to be, -and so runs it off into the Gulf of Mexico, about where Tiger r. does -in fact empty. But Pike was never on any tributary of Tiger r.--never -in that watershed at all--never in Nuevo Leon. His "fine stream" is a -headwater of that river which falls into the Rio Grande by Ringgold -Barracks, and whose two main forks are known as Rio San Juan and Rio -Salinas. Saltillo, once known as Leona Victoria, and present capital -of Coahuila, is on a branch of the Salinas (Rio Meteros); and -Monterey, present capital of Nuevo Leon, is on a branch of the San -Juan. - -[II'-34] Before coming to Patos and Florida, we will see what -Wislizenus says, Mem. p. 73: "_May 18._ Through a wide valley, with -mountains to the north and south, we went to-day (18 miles) to _Rancho -Nuevo_, and encamped about one mile southeast of it, in a valley.... -Some miles from our camp, in a corner, amidst mountains, lies -_Castanuela_, an old but small town, from which a shorter but very -rough road leads over the mountains to Parras. A fine creek runs by -it, descending from the southwest mountains and turning towards the -northeast." This seems to be about the place to which Pike was brought -on the 19th. - -[II'-35] "Pattos" is marked "Hacienda Poloss" on Pike's map, where it -is set down about a day's journey due W. of "Saltello"; "Florida" is -also marked, nearly as far off to the N. E. But these are mere -crudities of engraving; any good modern map will show Patos, about 35 -m. W. by S. from Saltillo, and about 16 m. S. by W. from San Antonio -de Jaral; which latter is 12 m. S. E. of a place on the railroad now -called Pastora. As to Patos and its vicinity we will hear from Dr. -Wislizenus, Mem. p. 74: "_May 19._ Marched 25 miles [from Rancho -Nuevo] to _Vequeria_, a small place on a creek of the same name. The -very tortuous road led over a hilly and broken country. From one of -the hills we perceived, towards the E. N. E., the distant mountains of -Saltillo. About five miles from Vequeria we passed a creek with very -clear water, the San Antonio, which unites below, near _Patos_, with -the Vequeria creek.... Northeast from Vequeria is an opening in the -surrounding mountains, through which the mountain chain of Saltillo -appears again. The route through this pass is the shortest and most -direct from Saltillo, but with wagons one has to take a southeastern -course to avoid the mountains. About one mile from Vequeria, in the -pass leading to Saltillo, lies _Patos_, a small town." The name of the -place Dr. W. calls "Vequeria" is preferably spelled Vaqueria; the word -means simply stock-farm or cattle-ranch; vaqueros are the cowboys of -such places, whom I used to hear called "buckeros" when I was in New -Mexico, perhaps by unconscious confusing of "vaqueros" with the -bucking bronchos they rode. - -Here we regret to take leave of our accomplished fellow-traveler, who -has set up finger-posts on Pike's route all the way from El Paso to -Patos. Dr. Wislizenus keeps on eastward to meet General Wool's forces -at Buena Vista and Saltillo. Pike has turned northward, down the San -Antonio cr., and camps at Florida, less than 3 m. N. of Patos, in the -direction of San Antonio de Jaral. - -[II'-36] Route of the 21st northward, past if not through San Antonio -de Jaral, down the right side of San Antonio cr., and across this from -E. to W.; thence continuing northward to some point probably on the -present railroad and in the vicinity of the station now known as -Sauceda (Willows). Pike's map shows the crossing, at a point below -certain forks he delineates, probably not far from half-way between -Sauceda and Pastora. - -[II'-37] Route N., thus bearing off from the river, main road, and -line of present railroad, all of which run along together about N. N. -E.; camp at or near no named place, but about 8 m. due W. of a place -on the railroad (Trevino or Venadito) where a branch turns off to go -to Monterey. "La Rancho" of the text, better written El Rancho, or -simply ranch, is beyond the place marked on the map as an Indian -village by the name of "Rambo"--unless this is the ranch itself, a -little misplaced. - -[II'-38] Route about N., 15-20 m. to the foot of the pass in the cross -mountain, at the place marked "Rivera" on Pike's map. - -[II'-39] On making Three Rivers Pass in the morning, Pike goes over -the "cross mountain" which forms the divide between the waters of the -San Juan and Salinas basin, and comes upon the water-shed of Rio -Sabinas (which river he will cross to reach the Rio Grande). The main -road which he strikes at the 13th mile is also the railroad line, and -he strikes them both at or near Bajan, 5 m. above Joya, where the main -road now comes in from points eastward. We have no mileage for the -24th, but it was a good day's journey to get only 9 m. short of -Montelovez (Monclova). - -As several of Pike's daily mileages are missing, we cannot say exactly -how many miles he made it out to be from the Mapimi locality to -Montelovez. If we average up the missing ones with the rest of the 14 -days, it makes 15 m. a day, or a total of 210 m. Those who are better -informed than myself concerning the kind of country passed over can -judge how near right these figures may be. It seems to me rather scant -measure for the most direct route by which the Bolson could have been -flanked by anything like the curve the railroad now takes. Pike -certainly never made such a fishhook-shaped trail as that delineated -on his map, if he only went 210 m. - -[II'-40] Route N., down E. bank of the river on which Monclova is -situated, along the main road and present railroad. No mileage; but 51/2 -hours on a road should make 16-18 m., and set Pike near Hermanos, at -the place Don Melcher or Michon had his real estate. - -[II'-41] Benjamin Lockwood of Ohio had been an ensign in the levies of -1791 when he was appointed a lieutenant of Infantry, Mar. 7th, 1792, -and arranged to the 4th sub-Legion, Sept. 4th of that year; he was -attached to the 4th Infantry, Nov. 1st, 1796, made a captain July -10th, 1797, transferred to the 2d Infantry Apr. 1st, 1802, and to the -1st Infantry Sept. 2d of that year; and died July 29th, 1807. - -[II'-42] The present town of Encinas (The Oaks) is on the road, 20 m. -from Hermanos, and presumably at or near the site of the old Barego -estate. Pike is fairly in the valley of Rio Sabinas. - -[II'-43] Millada r. of Pike is the main fork of Sabinas r., and the -one whose upper waters he left at Hermanos. Leaving it there, the road -through Encinas to Alamo cuts off a bend of the river which the -railroad now meanders by way of Baroteran, Aura, Obeya, and so on. The -ranch was at present site of Alamo, a well-known crossing where -several roads still concenter, 10 or 12 m. above the forks. It used to -be called Alameda Arriba or, as we should say, "Upper Cottonwoods"; -whence I imagine that Pike got his name "Millada." This river flowed -to his right as he faced N.; the letter "w" of the word "which" is -engraved on the map at precisely the point he crossed this stream: see -next note. - -[II'-44] The main stream of Sabinas r. is crossed at the place now -called Potrillo, and also Juarez, 10 m. from Alamo. This sets Pike at -a point 17 m. further on a bee line for the Presidio Grande. His -mapping of the "Millada" and Sabinas rivers is faulty to the last -degree: see the map on this point. 1. The Millada (on which the letter -"w" is engraved) should turn above that point and connect with the -stream on which "Montelovez" is situated. 2. The main Sabinas -(identifiable on the map by "[Symbol: Triangle] Kan" engraved -alongside Pike's trail) should have been carried clear up N. W., 100 -m. or more. 3. The great river which Pike fetches into the Rio Grande -at Presidio Grande, and which he runs down to this point from -"Montelovez," does not exist. It is an imaginary river, compounded of -about equal parts of upper portions of the two forks of the Sabinas, -cut off from their proper connections lower down, and run into the Rio -Grande about 100 m. too high up. The rest of the river (E. of Pike's -trail) is connected with the Rio Grande about right--that is to say, -below Laredo. Observe that Pike says nothing about crossing the mouth -of any such river as his map shows just where his trail comes to the -Rio Grande. It is a sheer blunder, which has baffled many a person who -naturally supposed that Pike fetched up at the mouth of Sabinas r., -some 40 m. below Laredo, but never could see how he got there, or how -he got thence to San Antonio, or what in the name of geography the two -rivers he crossed were anyhow. In fine, this affair of the Sabinas r. -befogged the whole trail for several hundred miles, both in Mexico and -in Texas. For my own part, I first tried to bring Pike to the Rio -Grande at the mouth of Sabinas r., and very soon lost him in Nuevo -Leon--to say nothing of the impossibility of trailing him thence to -San Antonio. Then I tried the roads to Laredo, observing that this -would do pretty well for the Texan side; but again I lost him in Nuevo -Leon. Though the map itself indicated that Pike never was in Nuevo -Leon (where General Salcedo, in fact, had no business to send troops, -as it was out of his jurisdiction), yet political boundaries nearly a -century old go for little on their face, and I was almost tempted to -give the puzzle up. But I thought that I would try the experiment of -disregarding the map altogether, and trailing Pike solely by his -itinerary in the text. It was a week's work to satisfy myself that he -was never over the present boundary of Coahuila after he left Durango, -and probably never 25 m. on either side of the railroad from Mapimi to -Sabinas r. There he was within two days of the Rio Grande, heading -straight for the Presidio Salto; and a glance at his map showed me -what the trouble was with that unlucky river. - -[II'-45] Directly on the main road to Presidio Salto--the Presidio -Grande, or del Rio Grande, of Pike. The running water, on which was -situated a ranch, was one of the several _small_ affluents of the Rio -Grande which run E. along here on the Mexican side. - - - - -CHAPTER III. - -ITINERARY, CONCLUDED: THROUGH TEXAS TO NATCHITOCHES ON THE RED RIVER -OF LOUISIANA, JUNE 1ST-JULY 1ST, 1807. - - -_Monday, June 1st._ Arrived at the Presidio Rio Grande[III'-1] at -eight o'clock. This place was the position to which our friend Barelo -had been ordered, and which had been very highly spoken of to him; but -he found himself miserably mistaken, for it was with the greatest -difficulty we obtained anything to eat, which mortified him extremely. - -When at Chihuahua, General Salcedo had asked me if I had not lost a -man by desertion, to which I replied in the negative. He then informed -me that an American had arrived at the Presidio Rio Grande in the last -year; that he had at first confined him, but that he was now released -and practicing physic; and that he wished me to examine him on my -arrival. I therefore had him sent for; the moment he entered the room -I discovered he never had received a liberal education, or been -accustomed to polished society. I told him the reason I had requested -to see him, and that I had it in my power to serve him if I found him -a character worthy of interference. - -He then related the following story: That his name was Martin -Henderson; that he was born in Rock Bridge County, State of Virginia; -that he had been brought up a farmer; but that, coming early to the -State of Kentucky and to Tennessee, he had acquired a taste for -frontier life, and that, in the spring of 1806, himself and four -companions had left the Saline in the District of Saint Genevieve, -Upper Louisiana, in order to penetrate through the woods to the -province of Texas; that his companions had left him on the White -[Arkansaw] river, and that he had continued on; that in swimming some -western branch his horse sunk under him, and it was with difficulty he -made the shore with his gun. Here he waited two or three days until -his horse rose, and he then got his saddle-bags; but all his notes on -the country, courses, etc., were destroyed. He then proceeded on foot -for a few days, when he was met by 30 or 40 Osage warriors, who, on -his telling them he was going to the Spaniards, were about to kill -him; but on his saying he would go to the Americans, they held a -consultation over him, and finally seized on his clothes and divided -them between them; then his pistols, compass, dirk, and watch, which -they took to pieces and hung in their noses and ears; then they -stripped him naked, and round his body found a belt with gold pieces -sewed in it; this they also took, and finally seized on his gun and -ammunition, and were marching off to leave him in that situation; but -he followed them, thinking it better to be killed than left in that -state to die by hunger and cold. The savages after some time halted, -and one pulled off an old pair of leggings and gave him, another -mockinsons, a third a buffalo robe, and the one who had carried his -heavy rifle had by this time become tired of his prize, they never -using rifles; they counted him out 25 charges of powder and ball, then -sent two Indians with him, who put him on a war-trace, which they said -led to American establishments; and as soon as the Indians left him he -directed his course as he supposed for Saint Antonio. He then killed -deer and made himself some clothes. He proceeded on and expended all -his ammunition three days before he struck the Grand Road, nearly at -the Rio Grande. He further added that he had discovered two mines, one -of silver and the other of gold, the situation of which he -particularly described; but that the general had taken the samples -from him. That he would not attempt to pass himself on us for a -physician, and hoped, as he only used simples and was careful to do no -harm, we would not betray him. He further added that since his being -in the country he had made, from information, maps of all the adjacent -country; but that they had been taken from him. - -I had early concluded that he was an agent of Burr's, and was -revolving in my mind whether I should denounce him as such to the -commandant, but feeling reluctant from an apprehension that he might -be innocent, when one of my men came in and informed me that it was -Trainer, who had killed Major Bashier [?] in the wilderness between -Natchez and Tennessee, when he was his hireling. He shot him, when -taking a nap at noon, through the head with his own pistols. The -governor of the State and the major's friends offered a very -considerable reward for his apprehension, which obliged him to quit -the State; and with an Amazonian woman, who handled arms and hunted -like a savage, he retreated to the source of the White river; but, -being routed from that retreat by Captain Maney [James B. Many], of -the United States army and a party of Cherokees, he and his female -companion bore west; she, proving to be pregnant, was left by him in -the desert, and I was informed arrived at the settlements on Red -river, but by what means is to me unknown. The articles and money -taken from him by the Osages were the property of the deceased major. -I then reported these circumstances to Captain Barelo, who had him -immediately confined, until the will of Governor Cordero should be -known, who informed me, when at Saint Antonio, that he would have him -sent to some place of perpetual confinement in the interior. Thus -vengeance has overtaken the ingrate and murderer when he least -expected it. - -In the evening we went to see some performers on the slack-rope, who -were no wise extraordinary in their performances, except in language -which would bring a blush on the cheek of the most abandoned of the -female sex in the United States. - -_June 2d._ In the day time were endeavoring to regulate our watches by -my compass, and in an instant that my back was turned some person -stole it. I could by no means recover it, and I had strong suspicions -that the theft was approved, as the instrument had occasioned great -dissatisfaction. - -This day the captain went out to dine with some monks, who would have -thought it profanation to have had us as their guests, notwithstanding -the priest of the place had escorted us round the town and to all the -missions; we found him a very communicative, liberal, and intelligent -man. We saw no resource for a dinner but in the inventive genius of a -little Frenchman who had accompanied us from Chihuahua, where he had -been officiating one year as cook to the general, of whom he gave us -many interesting anecdotes, and in fact was of infinite service to us; -we supported him and he served as cook, interpreter, etc. It was -astonishing with what zeal he strove to acquire news and information -for us; and as he had been four times through the provinces, he had -acquired considerable knowledge of the country, people, etc. He went -off and in a very short time returned with table-cloth, plates, a -dinner of three or four courses, a bottle of wine, and a pretty girl -to attend on the table. We inquired by what magic he had brought this -about, and found that he had been to one of the officers and notified -him that it was the wish of the commandant that he should supply the -two Americans with a decent dinner, which was done; but we took care -to compensate them for their trouble. This we explained to Barelo in -the evening, and he laughed heartily. - -We parted from the captain with regrets and assurances of remembrance. -Departed at five o'clock, escorted by Ensign [Blank] and [blank] men; -came on to the Rio Grande, which we passed, and encamped at a Rancho -on the other side. Distance seven miles.[III'-2] - -_June 3d._ The mosquitoes, which had commenced the first night on this -side of Montelovez, now became very troublesome. This day saw the -first horse-flies; saw some wild horses; came on in the open plain, -and in a dry time, when there was no water. Distance 30 miles. - -_June 4th._ Came 16 miles to a pond and dined; great sign of wild -horses; in the afternoon to the river Noissour [Nueces], swimming -where [_i. e._, too deep to ford when] we arrived, although it was not -more than ten steps wide. Distance 36 miles.[III'-3] - -_June 5th._ After losing two horses in passing the river, the water -having fallen so that we forded, we crossed and continued our route. -Passed two herds of wild horses, which left the road for us. Halted at -a pond on the left of the road, 15 miles, where we saw the first oak -since we left New Mexico, and this was scrub oak. Passed many deer -yesterday and to-day. Came on to a small creek at night, where we met -a party of the company of Saint Fernandez returning from the line. -Distance 31 miles.[III'-4] - -_June 6th._ Marched early and met several parties of troops returning -from Texas, where they had been sent to re-enforce, when our troops -were near the line. Immense numbers of cross-roads made by the wild -horses. Killed a wild hog [peccary, _Dicotyles torquatus_], which on -examination I found to be very different from the tame breed, smaller, -brown, with long hair and short legs; they are to be found in all -parts between Red river and the Spanish settlements. - -Passed an encampment made by the Lee Panes [Lipans[III'-5]]; met one -of said nation with his wife. In the afternoon struck the woodland, -which was the first we had been in from the time we left the Osage -nation. Distance 39 miles. - -_Sunday, June 7th._ Came on 15 miles to the [Medina] river -Mariano--the line between Texas and Cogquilla--a pretty little stream, -[on which was a] Rancho. Thence in the afternoon to Saint -Antonio.[III'-6] We halted at the mission of Saint Joseph [San Jose]; -received in a friendly manner by the priest of the mission and others. - -We were met out of Saint Antonio about three miles by Governors -Cordero and Herrara, in a coach. We repaired to their quarters, where -we were received like their children. Cordero informed me that he had -discretionary orders as to the mode of my going out of the country; -that he therefore wished me to choose my time, mode, etc.; that any -sum of money I might want was at my service; that in the meantime -Robinson and myself would make his quarters our home; and that he had -caused to be vacated and prepared a house immediately opposite for the -reception of my men. In the evening his levee was attended by a crowd -of officers and priests, among whom were Father M'Guire and Dr. -Zerbin. After supper we went to the public square, where might be seen -the two governors joined in a dance with people who in the daytime -would approach them with reverence and awe. - -We were here introduced to the sister of Lieutenant Malgares' wife, -who was one of the finest women we saw. She was married to a Captain -Ugarte, to whom we had letters of introduction. - -_June 8th._ Remained at San Antonio. - -_June 9th._ A large party dined at Governor Cordero's, who gave as his -toast, "The President of the United States--Vive la." I returned the -compliment by toasting "His Catholic Majesty." These toasts were -followed by "General Wilkinson." One of the company then gave "Those -gentlemen; their safe and happy arrival in their own country; their -honorable reception, and the continuation of the good understanding -which exists between the two countries." - -_June 10th._ A large party at the governor's to dinner. He gave as a -toast, "My companion, Herrara." - -_June 11th._ Preparing to march to-morrow. We this evening had a -conversation with the two governors, wherein they exhibited an -astonishing knowledge of the political character of our Executive, and -the local interests of the different parts of the Union. - -_June 12th._ One of the captains from the kingdom of [Nuevo] Leon -having died, we were invited to attend the burial, and accompanied the -two governors in their coach, where we had an opportunity of viewing -the solemnity of the interment, agreeably to the ritual of the Spanish -church, attended by the military honors which were conferred on the -deceased by his late brethren in arms. - -[As I ascertained to-day,] Governor Cordero gave the information of my -intended expedition to the commandant-general as early as July [1806], -the same month that I took my departure. His information was received -via Natchez. - -_June 13th._ This morning there were marched 200 dragoons for the -sea-coast, to look out for the English, and this evening Colonel -Cordero was to have marched to join them. We marched at seven o'clock, -Governor Cordero taking us in his coach about two leagues, accompanied -by Father M'Guire, Dr. Zerbin, etc. We took a friendly adieu of -Governor Herrara and our other friends at Saint Antonio. - -It may not be improper to mention here something of Father M'Guire and -Dr. Zerbin, who certainly treated us with all imaginable attention -while at Saint Antonio. The former was an Irish priest, who formerly -resided on the coast above [New] Orleans [in present Louisiana], and -was noted for his hospitable and social qualities. On the cession of -Louisiana, he followed the standard of "the king, his master, who -never suffers an old servant to be neglected." He received at Cuba an -establishment as chaplain to the mint of Mexico, whence the -instability of human affairs carried him to Saint Antonio. He was a -man of chaste classical taste, observation, and research. - -Dr. Zerbin formerly resided at Natchez [in present Mississippi], but -in consequence of pecuniary embarrassments emigrated to the Spanish -territories. Being a young man of a handsome person and an insinuating -address, he had obtained the good-will of Governor Cordero, who had -conferred on him an appointment in the king's hospital, and many other -advantages by which he might have made a fortune; but he had recently -committed some very great indiscretions, by which he had nearly lost -the favor of Colonel Cordero, though whilst we were there he was -treated with attention. - -I will here attempt to portray a faint resemblance of the characters -of the two governors whom we found at Saint Antonio; but to whose -superexcellent qualities it would require the pen of a master to do -justice. - -Don Antonio Cordero is about 5 feet 10 inches in height, 50 years of -age, with fair complexion and blue eyes; he wore his hair turned back, -and in every part of his deportment was legibly written "the soldier." -He yet possessed an excellent constitution, and a body which appeared -to be neither impaired by the fatigues of the various campaigns he had -made, nor disfigured by the numerous wounds received from the enemies -of his king. He was one of the select officers who had been chosen by -the court of Madrid to be sent to America about 35 years since, to -discipline and organize the Spanish provincials, and had been employed -in all the various kingdoms and provinces of New Spain. Through the -parts which we explored he was universally beloved and respected; and -when I pronounce him by far the most popular man in the internal -provinces, I risk nothing by the assertion. He spoke the Latin and -French languages well, was generous, gallant, brave, and sincerely -attached to his king and country. Those numerous qualifications -advanced him to the rank of colonel of cavalry, and governor of the -provinces of Cogquilla and Texas. His usual residence was Montelovez, -which he had embellished a great deal, but since our taking possession -of Louisiana he had removed to San Antonio, in order to be nearer the -frontier, to be able to apply the remedy to any evil which might arise -from the collision of our lines. - -Don Simon de Herrara is about 5 feet 11 inches high, has a sparkling -black eye, dark complexion and hair. He was born in the Canary -islands, served in the infantry in France, Spain, and Flanders, and -speaks the French language well, with a little of the English. He is -engaging in his conversation with his equals; polite and obliging to -his inferiors, and in all his actions one of the most gallant and -accomplished men I ever knew. He possesses a great knowledge of -mankind from his experience in various countries and societies, and -knows how to employ the genius of each of his subordinates to -advantage. He had been in the United States during the presidency of -General Washington, and had been introduced to that hero, of whom he -spoke in terms of exalted veneration. He is now lieutenant-colonel of -infantry, and governor of the kingdom of New Leon. His seat of -government is Mont Elrey; and probably, if ever a chief is adored by -his people, it is Herrara. When his time expired last, he immediately -repaired to Mexico, attended by 300 of the most respectable people of -his government, who carried with them the sighs, tears, and prayers of -thousands that he might be continued in that government. The viceroy -thought proper to accord to their wishes _pro tempore_, and the king -has since confirmed his nomination. When I saw him he had been about -one year absent, during which time the citizens of rank in Mont Elrey -had not suffered a marriage or baptism to take place in any of their -families, until their common father could be there, to consent and -give joy to the occasion by his presence. What greater proof could be -given of their esteem and love? - -In drawing a parallel between these two friends, I should say that -Cordero was the man of greatest reading, and that Herrara possessed -the greatest knowledge of the world. Cordero has lived all his life a -bachelor. Herrara married an English lady in early youth, at Cadiz; -one who by her suavity of manners makes herself as much beloved and -esteemed by the ladies as her noble husband is by the men. By her he -has several children, one now an officer in the service of his royal -master. - -The two friends agree perfectly in one point--their hatred to tyranny -of every kind; and in a secret determination never to see that -flourishing part of the New World subject to any other European lord -except him whom they think their honor and loyalty bound to defend -with their lives and fortunes. But should Bonaparte seize on European -Spain, I risk nothing in asserting that those two gentlemen would be -the first to throw off the yoke, draw their swords, and assert the -independence of their country. - -Before I close this subject, it may not be improper to state that we -owe it to Governor Herrara's prudence that we are not now engaged in a -war with Spain. This will be explained by the following anecdote, -which he related in the presence of his friend Cordero, and which was -confirmed by him. When the difficulties commenced on the -Sabine,[III'-7] the commandant-general and the viceroy consulted each -other, and mutually determined to maintain inviolate what they deemed -the dominions of their master. The viceroy therefore ordered Herrara -to join Cordero with 1,300 men, and both the viceroy and General -Salcedo ordered Cordero to cause our troops to be attacked, should -they pass the Rio Oude [_sic_]. These orders were positively -reiterated to Herrara, the actual commanding officer of the Spanish -army on the frontiers, and gave rise to the many messages which he -sent to General Wilkinson when he was advancing with our troops. -Finding they were not attended to, he called a council of war on the -question to attack or not, when it was given as their opinion that -they should immediately commence a predatory warfare, but avoid a -general engagement; yet, notwithstanding the orders of the viceroy, -the commandant-general, Governor Cordero's, and the opinion of his -officers, he had the firmness or temerity to enter into the agreement -with General Wilkinson which at present exists relative to our -boundaries on that frontier. On his return he was received with -coolness by Cordero, and they both made their communications to their -superiors. "Until an answer was received," said Herrara, "I -experienced the most unhappy period of my life, conscious I had served -my country faithfully, at the same time that I had violated every -principle of military duty." At length the answer arrived, and what -was it, but the thanks of the viceroy and the commandant-general for -having pointedly disobeyed their orders, with assurances that they -would represent his services in exalted terms to the king. What could -have produced this change of sentiment is to me unknown, but the -letter was published to the army, and confidence again restored -between the two chiefs and the troops. - -Our company consisted of Lieutenant Jn. Echararria, who commanded the -escort; Captain Eugene Marchon of New Orleans, and Father Jose Angel -Cabaso, who was bound to the camp at or near the [river] Trinity; with -a suitable proportion of soldiers. We came on 16 miles to a place -called the Beson, where we halted until the mules came up. Marched -again at four o'clock, and arrived at the river of Guadalupe at eight -o'clock. Distance 30 miles.[III'-8] - -_Sunday, June 14th._ When we left Saint Antonio, everything appeared -to be in a flourishing and improving state, owing to the examples and -encouragement given to industry, politeness, and civilization by the -excellent Governor Cordero and his colleague Herrara; also to the -large body of troops maintained at that place in consequence of the -difference existing between the United States and Spain. - -Came on to the Saint Mark [river, Rio San Marco] in the morning; in -the afternoon came on 15 miles further, but was late, owing to our -having taken the wrong road. Distance 30 miles.[III'-9] - -_June 15th._ Marched 20 miles in the morning to a small pond, which is -dry in a dry season, where we halted. Here commenced the oak timber, -it having been musqueet [mesquit, _Prosopis juliflora_] in general -from Saint Antonio. Prairie like the Indiana territory. In the -afternoon came on six miles further to a creek, where we encamped -early. Distance 26 miles.[III'-10] - -_June 16th._ Marched early, and at eight o'clock arrived at Red river -[Rio Colorado of Texas[III'-11]]. Here was a small Spanish station -and several lodges of Tancards--tall, handsome men, but the most naked -savages I ever saw, without exception. They complained much of their -situation. In the afternoon passed over hilly, stony land; -occasionally we saw pine timber. Killed one deer. Encamped on a small -run. Distance 26 miles. - -_June 17th._ Came on by nine o'clock to a large encampment of -Tancards,[III'-12] more than 40 lodges. Their poverty was as -remarkable as their independence. Immense herds of horses, etc. I gave -a Camanche and Tancard each a silk handkerchief, and a recommendation -to the commandant at Natchitoches. In the afternoon came on three -hours and encamped on a hill, at a creek on the right-hand side of the -road. Met a large herd of mules escorted by four soldiers; the -lieutenant took from them some money which they had in charge. -Distance 30 miles. - -_June 18th._ Rode on until half past ten o'clock, when we arrived at -the river Brassos.[III'-13] Here is a stockade guard of one corporal, -six men, and a ferry-boat. Swam our horses over; one was drowned and -several others were near it, owing to their striking each other with -their feet. We then came on about two miles on this side of a bayou -called the Little Brassos, which is only a branch of the other, and -which makes an impassable swamp at certain seasons between them. -Distance 31 miles. - -_June 19th._ Came on through prairies and woods alternately 20 miles -to a small creek, Corpus Christi, with well-wooded, rich land. In the -afternoon came on ten miles, and passed a creek which at high water is -nearly impassable four miles. Overflows swamps, ponds, etc. Encamped -about one mile on this side, on high land to the right of the road. -Met the mail, Indians, and others. Distance 30 miles.[III'-14] - -_June 20th._ Came on 16 miles in the morning; passed several herds of -mustangs or wild horses; good land, ponds and small dry creeks, -prairie and woods, alternately. It rained considerably. We halted to -dry our baggage long before night. Distance 20 miles. - -_Sunday, June 21st._ Came on to the river Trinity [Rio -Trinidad[III'-15]] by eight o'clock. Here were stationed two captains, -two lieutenants, and three ensigns, with nearly 100 men, all sick, one -scarcely able to assist another. Met a number of runaway negroes, some -French, and Irishmen. Received information of Lieutenant Wilkinson's -safe arrival. Crossed with all our horses and baggage, with much -difficulty. Distance 20 miles. - -_June 22d._ Marched the mules and horses in the forenoon, but did not -depart ourselves until three o'clock. Father Jose Angel Cabaso -separated from us at this place for the post of [300 Spanish troops -cantoned further down Trinity river], where he was destined. Passed -thick woods, and a few small prairies with high rich grass. Sent a -dispatch to Nacogdoches. Distance 22 miles.[III'-16] - -_June 23d._ Came on 20 miles in the forenoon to a small creek of -standing water; good land and well timbered. Met a sergeant from -Nacogdoches. In the afternoon made 20 miles and crossed the river -Natches [or Neches,[III'-17]] running N. W. and S. E., 20 yards wide, -belly-deep to horses at this time, but sometimes impassable. Two miles -on this side encamped on a hill in a little prairie. The mules and -loads arrived at twelve o'clock. The sandy soil and pine timber began -again this afternoon, but there was good land near the river. Distance -40 miles. - -_June 24th._ The horses came up this morning; lost six over night. We -marched early and in 15 miles came to the river Angeline [Rio -Angelina], about the width of the Natchez, running N. and S.; good -land on its borders. Two miles further was a settlement of Barr and -Davenport's, where were three of our lost horses; one mile further -found two more of our horses, where we halted for dinner. Marched at -four o'clock, and at half past eight arrived at Nacogdoches, where we -were politely received by the adjutant and inspector [Don Francisco -Viana], Captain Herrara, Mr. Davenport, etc. This part of the country -is well watered, but sandy; hilly soil; pine, scrub oak, etc. Distance -37 miles. - -_June 25th._ Spent in reading a gazette from the United States, etc. A -large party at the adjutant and inspector's to dinner: 1st toast, -"The President of the United States"; 2d, "The King of Spain"; 3d, -"Governors Herrara and Cordero." - -_June 26th._ Made preparations to march the next day. Saw an old -acquaintance; also, Lorrimier's son-in-law, from the district of Cape -Jerardeau [Girardeau]. Dined with the commandant, and spent the -evening at Davenport's. - -_June 27th._ Marched after dinner and came only 12 miles. Was escorted -by Lieutenant Guodiana and a military party. Mr. Davenport's -brother-in-law, who was taking in some money, also accompanied us. - -Don Francis Viana, adjutant and inspector of the Internal provinces, -who commanded at Nacogdoches, is an old and veteran officer, and was -one of those who came to America at the same time with Colonel -Cordero. Possessing a mind of frankness, he unfortunately spoke his -opinions too freely in some instances, which, finding their way to -court, prevented his promotion. But he is highly respected by his -superiors, and looked up to as a model of military conduct by his -inferiors. He unfortunately does not possess flexibility sufficient to -be useful [to us] in the present state of the Spanish kingdoms. He is -the officer who caused Major Sparks and Mr. Freeman to return from -their expedition on the Red river [see p. 412]. - -_Sunday, June 28th._ Marched early and at nine o'clock crossed the -little river called [Toyac[III'-18]], whence we pushed on in order to -arrive at the house of a Frenchman, [about nine] miles distant from -the Sabine. We stopped at a house on the road, where the lieutenant -informed me an American by the name of Johnson lived; but was -surprised to find he had crossed the line with his family, and a -French family in his place. When we began conversing with them they -were much alarmed, thinking we had come to examine them, and expressed -great attachment to the Spanish government. They were somewhat -astonished to find I was an American officer; and on my companions -stepping out, expressed themselves in strong terms of hatred to the -Spanish nation. I excused them for their weakness, and gave them a -caution. Fine land, well watered and timbered; hickory, oak, -sugar-tree, etc. Distance 40 miles. - -_June 29th._ Our baggage and horses came up about ten o'clock, when we -dispatched them on. Marched ourselves at two o'clock, and arrived at -the river Sabine by five. Here we saw the cantonment of the Spanish -troops, when they were commanded by Colonel Herrara, in the late -affair between the two governments. Crossed the Sabine river and came -about one league on this side to a little prairie, where we encamped. -Distance 15 miles.[III'-19] - -Parted with Lieutenant Guodiana and our Spanish escort. Here I think -proper to bear testimony to the politeness, civility, and attention of -all the officers who at different periods and in different provinces -commanded my escort, but in a particular manner to Malgares and -Barelo, who appeared studious to please and accommodate, all that lay -in their power; also, the obliging, mild dispositions evinced in all -instances by their rank and file. - -On this side of the Sabine I went up to a house, where I found 10 or -15 Americans hovering near the line, in order to embrace an -opportunity of carrying on some illicit commerce with the Spaniards, -who on their side were equally eager. Here we found Tharp and Sea, who -had been old sergeants in General Wayne's army. - -_June 30th._ Marched early and came 15 miles to a house at a small -creek, where lived a Dutch family named Faulk, and where we left a -small roan horse which had given out. Marched 12 miles further to a -large bayou, where had been an encampment of our troops, which I -recognized by its form, and took pleasure in imagining the position of -the general's marquee and the tents of my different friends and -acquaintances. Distance 28 [27] miles.[III'-20] - -_July 1st._ Finding that a horse of Dr. Robinson's, which had come -all the way from Chihuahua, could not proceed, was obliged to leave -him here. Yesterday and to-day passed many Choctaws, whose clothing, -furniture, etc., evidently marked the superiority of situation of -those who bordered on our frontiers, to that of the naked, -half-starved wretches whom we found hanging round the Spanish -settlements. Passed a string of huts, supposed to have been built by -our troops, and at a small run a fortified camp but half a mile from -the hill where anciently stood the village Adyes [Adayes on the -map[III'-21]]. We proceeded to a spring where we halted for our loads. -Finding the horses much fatigued, and not able to proceed, we left -them and baggage and proceeded. We arrived at Natchitoches[III'-22] -about 4 p. m. - -Language cannot express the gayety of my heart when I once more beheld -the standard of my country waved aloft. "All hail!" cried I, "the ever -sacred name of country, in which is embraced that of kindred, friends, -and every other tie which is dear to the soul of man!" Was -affectionately received by Colonel Freeman, Captains Strong and -Woolstoncraft, Lieutenant Smith, and all the [other] officers of the -post.[III'-23] - -_Meteorological Observations made by Captain Pike during a -Tour through the Internal Provinces of New Spain, in the -year 1807._[III'-24] - - -------+----------------------------+-----------------+--------------- - | [Reaumur's] Thermometer. | | Wind. - Date. +---------+---------+--------+ Sky. +-------+------- - |sun-rise.| 3 p. m. |sun-set.| |Course.| Force. - -------+---------+---------+--------+-----------------+-------+------- - Mar. 3 | 4 | .... | .... | cloudy and snow | W | fresh - 4 | 1 | .... | 2 | snow | E | do. - 5 | 4 | .... | .... | clear | N W | gentle - 6 | .... | .... | 2 | cloudy and snow | N | do. - 7 | 1 | .... | .... | hail | N | .... - 8 | .... | .... | 3 | cloudy | W | .... - 9 | 3 | .... | 4 | clear | W | .... - 10 | 0 | .... | 6 | hail and snow | S W | .... - 11 | 1 | .... | 6 | .... | W | fresh - 12 | 3 | .... | 3 | .... | W | gentle - 13 | 1 | .... | .... | .... | N | fresh - 14 | 3 | .... | 6 | cloudy | S W | .... - 15 | 0 | .... | 6 | .... | W | .... - 16 | 7 | .... | 2 | clear | S W | gentle - 17 | 41/2 | .... | 7 | .... | E | .... - 18 | 6 | .... | 6 | .... | E | fresh - 19 | 2 | .... | 7 | .... | .... | .... - 20 | .... | .... | .... | .... | E | .... - 21 | 9 | .... | .... | clear and cold | .... | .... - 22 | .... | .... | .... | snow and hail | S E | .... - 23 | .... | .... | .... | .... | .... | .... - 24 | 2 | .... | 6 | clear | E | gentle - 25 | .... | .... | .... | do. | .... | .... - 26 | 1 | .... | 6 | do. | E | gentle - 27 | 1 | .... | .... | do. | S | fresh - 28 | 2 | .... | 8 | do. | S | gentle - 29 | 2 | .... | 9 | .... | N | fresh - 30 | 1 | 14 | 4 | .... | N | .... - 31 | 5 | .... | 11 | .... | W | gentle - | | | | | | - Apr. 4 | 13 | 16 | 15 | .... | .... | .... - 5 | 14 | 17 | 15 | .... | S | .... - 6 | 15 | 16 | 14 | .... | .... | .... - 7 | 13 | 15 | 16 | cloudy | .... | .... - 8 | 14 | 16 | 17 | .... | .... | .... - 9 | 13 | 17 | 15 | .... | .... | .... - 10 | 14 | 16 | 14 | .... | .... | .... - 11 | 15 | 18 | 15 | .... | .... | .... - 12 | 13 | 19 | 17 | .... | .... | .... - 13 | 14 | 17 | 18 | light snow | .... | .... - 14 | 15 | 19 | 15 | .... | .... | .... - 15 | 14 | 20 | 18 | .... | .... | .... - 16 | 13 | 18 | 16 | .... | .... | .... - 17 | 16 | 20 | 15 | .... | .... | .... - 18 | 17 | 19 | 16 | .... | .... | .... - 19 | 18 | 18 | 15 | .... | .... | .... - 20 | 15 | 18 | 16 | .... | .... | .... - 21 | 14 | 13 | 15 | .... | .... | .... - 22 | 16 | 18 | 16 | .... | .... | .... - 23 | 15 | 19 | 19 | .... | .... | .... - 24 | 13 | 19 | 16 | .... | .... | .... - 25 | 15 | 19 | 16 | clear | .... | .... - 26 | 14 | 18 | 17 | .... | .... | .... - 27 | 15 | 19 | 17 | .... | .... | .... - 28 | 14 | 17 | 16 | .... | .... | .... - 29 | 15 | 24 | 20 | .... | .... | .... - 30 | 15 | .... | 20 | .... | .... | .... - -------+---------+---------+--------+-----------------+-------+------- - -_Meteorological Observations made by Captain Pike (Continued)._ - - -------+----------------------------+-----------------+--------------- - | [Reaumur's] Thermometer. | | Wind. - Date. +---------+---------+--------+ Sky. +-------+------- - |sun-rise.| 3 p. m. |sun-set.| |Course.|Force. - -------+---------+---------+--------+-----------------+-------+------- - May 1 | 11 | .... | .... | .... | .... | .... - 2 | 12 | 24 | 17 | .... | .... | .... - 3 | 15 | 23 | 16 | some rain | .... | .... - 4 | 14 | 24 | 17 | clear | .... | .... - 5 | 17 | 23 | 16 | .... | W | .... - 6 | 17 | 281/2 | 16 | .... | S | .... - 7 | 14 | 29 | 15 | .... | S W | .... - 8 | 12 | 27 | 15 | .... | W | .... - 9 | 9 | 26 | 20 | .... | .... | .... - 10 | 11 | 24 | 17 | .... | W | .... - 11 | .... | 25 | .... | .... | .... | .... - 12 | 15 | 27 | .... | .... | .... | .... - 13 | 27 | 20 | .... | .... | E | .... - 14 | 10 | 30 | 20 | .... | S W | .... - 15 | 11 | 321/2 | .... | clear | S E | .... - 16 | .... | 25 | .... | cloudy | S | .... - 17 | .... | 23 | 20 | some rain | .... | .... - 18 | 29 | 24 | 211/2 | rain | .... | .... - 19 | 201/2 | .... | 15 | cloudy | E | gentle - 20 | 13 | 24 | .... | some rain | .... | .... - 21 | .... | 22 | 19 | cloudy | .... | .... - 22 | .... | 24 | .... | rainy morning | .... | .... - 23 | 15 | 23 | 15 | clear | W | .... - 24 | 14 | 22 | 21 | .... | .... | .... - 25 | 16 | 24 | 23 | .... | .... | .... - 26 | 15 | 23 | 22 | cloudy and rain | W | .... - 27 | 14 | 21 | 18 | rain | .... | .... - 28 | 15 | 23 | 15 | cloudy | S | .... - 29 | 19 | .... | .... | do. | .... | .... - 30 | .... | 30 | 20 | do. | .... | .... - 31 | 22 | 27 | 25 | do. | S | .... - | | | | | | - June 1 | 17 | 2 | .... | .... | .... | .... - 2 | .... | 25 | .... | cloudy | S E | .... - 3 | .... | 26 | .... | .... | .... | .... - 4 | .... | 30 | .... | .... | .... | .... - -------+---------+---------+--------+-----------------+-------+------- - -FOOTNOTES: - -[III'-1] Pike is now seen to have been all the while on the old -Spanish trail from Coahuila into Texas--for it was the "old" trail of -his day, a century ago. The place is 40 m. below Eagle Pass or old -Fort Duncan, and 90 m. above Laredo or old Fort McIntosh. It is thus -the middle one of three places on the river within easy striking -distance of San Antonio, Tex. From each of the three roads still -converge to the latter point; but this most historic place on the -lower Rio Grande has in the course of time fallen between two stools, -so to speak. For now one railroad runs from San Antonio nearly S. to -Laredo, by the way of Pearsall, Derby, Cotulla, Encinal, Webb, and -Sanchez, and another comes W. to Laredo from Corpus Christi on the -Gulf; while a third railroad connects San Antonio with Eagle Pass by -way of Castroville, Salinal, and Brackettville (Fort Clark). The last -named one is that which Pike kept so close to on his way out of -Mexico; the one from Laredo runs in Nuevo Leon to Monterey and so on. -Eagle Pass is roundly 500 m. up the Rio Grande, by any practicable -road, but less than half as far from the Gulf in a direct line. Forty -years ago it had a population of 300, and Fort Duncan, which adjoined -the town, was our uppermost military post on the river. On the other -side the Mexicans had their similar establishment at a place called -Piedras Negras or Black Rocks. A fine view of this place is given on -one of the engravings of the U. S. and Mex. B. Survey, supposed to be -bound opp. p. 72. The Ciudad Porfirio Diaz is there or thereabouts -now, and another settlement called Fuentes is in the neighborhood; but -Fort Duncan has disappeared, except from history. Fuentes is on a -small river which falls in just above; higher up on the same is San -Fernando de Rosas, or Zaragoza, a point whence various roads radiate. -Laredo or Loredo is a very old place, whose history dates back to the -early Spanish occupation of the country. Emory writes that in his -time, say 1850, it was a decayed place of 600 inhabitants, having been -ravaged by savage hordes, and being then supported mainly by old Fort -McIntosh, which was built a mile above the town. He thinks that the -countless herds of horses which had been stampeded and stolen by the -Indians were the progenitors of the mustangs which roamed the plains -of Texas thence N. and E. Laredo is now a focal point of roads from -every direction, including two railroads; and a place called Nuevo -Laredo is established across the river. At 61 or 62 m. by the road -below Laredo, and thus opposite the mouth of Rio Sabinas (which takes -the undesirable name of Rio Salado below its forks), a fortified -trading-post was built, and called Bellville. This name appears on -maps of 40 years ago, but has lapsed, like that of Redmond's Ranch by -which it was once known, and there is nothing on the American side to -show for what would supposably be a marked place--the confluence of so -large a river with the Rio Grande. But there is a town of Carrizo a -few miles below, on the Texan side. The Mexican town of Guerro or -Guerrero is located on the N. bank of Rio Salado, 4 m. up; and 3 m. -further are the handsome falls, a colored plate of which should be -found opp. p. 65 of the Report last named. Forty miles below this -confluence, Rio Alamo, also known as Rio Alcontre, falls in on the -Mexican side, and 4 m. up this river is the town of Mier, on its S. -bank. Mier, or a town of that name in this vicinity, must be an old -place; Pike marks a Mier on the Texan side. The Mier of the Mexican -War became a celebrated place, during the Texan invasion of 1840, when -a desperate fight occurred on its plaza. It was then a town of 2,000 -or 3,000 inhabitants, and had many stone buildings among the -straw-thatched huts. It made much history, and was a point of -strategic importance, being the starting-place of the shortest and -most direct road to Monterey. Military operations on the Rio Grande -during the American occupation of Mier are said by Emory to have -altered the channel of the river, with the result of throwing the -island of Los Adjuntos over to the Mexican side, and thus changing -what had been the United States and Mexican boundary. About 5 m. -further down the Rio Grande stands Roma, a town on the American side, -notable as the head of ordinary steamboat navigation. Below this, at -the distance of 16 or 17 m., are the adjoining localities of Rio -Grande City and Ringgold Barracks. These notable places are opposite -the mouth of the San Juan r., on some of whose headwaters Pike was -found in the country W. of Saltillo, and which is the first -considerable stream that falls in on the Mexican side above the Gulf. -The town of Camargo is built on its E. bank, about 4 m. up. The -original establishment of Fort Ringgold is old (for our young history -on the Rio Grande); it was a mean place in 1850, when Rio Grande City -had a population of about 300, but came into prominence during the -years of the Boundary Survey, when it was a base of various -operations, and a point of observation: distance from the sea, 241 m. -by the river; alt. 521 feet; lat. 26 deg. 22' 27.79'' N.; long. 98 deg. 46' -32.85'' W. (Emory, _l. c._). All the points here in mention, between -and including Ringgold Barracks and Laredo, are in Texas or in -Tamaulipas; for Nuevo Leon is cut off from the Rio Grande by the -Tamaulipan "Panhandle" which runs up to Coahuila. To return now from -our trip up and down the river to the famous place where we left Pike: -The name of Presidio Rio Grande which Pike uses is not yet entirely -obsolete, but the place is now better known as Presidio Salto--that -is, "Fort Falls," or the Mexican military post which was established -near the falls of the Rio Grande. Las Isletas, or The Islets, is the -name of the place in the river where the usually impassable falls or -rapids occur, and just above these is the crossing. The scene is well -shown on the plate opp. p. 68 of the Report cited. The latitude of Las -Isletas was determined by Michler in 1853 to be 28 deg. 16' 11.5'' N. - -[III'-2] N. E., heading straight for San Antonio de Bexar, on the old -trail, to the vicinity of Carrizo springs, Maverick Co. - -[III'-3] The Nueces (R. des Noix of F. maps, as Vaugondy, 1783; Neuces -on Winterbotham's, 1795) is the first one of the large series of -rivers which drain Texas to the S. E. and S., and fall into one -another or separately into the Gulf. Among these are the San Antonio, -the Guadalupe, the Colorado (Red river of Texas), the Brazos, the -Trinity, the Nechez, and the Sabine--all of which Pike had to cross, -in the order in which they are here named, to reach Natchitoches on -the Red r. in the present State of Louisiana. During this journey to -the last named he continued in what was then the Spanish province of -Coahuila until he was almost to San Antonio, and thereafter traversed -the then province of Texas, though he passed into what is now the U. -S. State of Texas on crossing the Rio Grande. - -[III'-4] Those three streams which Pike lays down across his trail, -before the San Antonio is reached, are the Nueces; the Leona, a branch -of the Frio; and the Frio, main branch of the Nueces. These are -successively crossed in the order here given. To-day's pond is marked -on the map, between the Nueces and the Leona; a second pond is also -marked, between the Leona and the Frio. Pike letters the Frio "Cold -Creek," and runs the Nueces into the Rio Grande at or near Mier (see -note 1); but it empties separately into the Gulf of Mexico near -Corpus Christi. Fort Ewell was built on the Nueces, on the road -between San Antonio and Laredo (Fort McIntosh); near the headwaters of -the Leona was situated Fort Inge, on the road from San Antonio to -Eagle Pass (Fort Duncan). - -My maps differ irreconcilably concerning a certain Rio Quihi, -tributary to the Nueces system. The best one, of 1857-58, makes it a -large branch of the Leona, reaching across the direct route from -Presidio Salto to San Antonio, and therefore across Pike's trail. -_This_ Quihi r. is the present San Miguel r., which joins the Frio in -McMullen Co. On an earlier map, 1849, there is no such river, but an -insignificant Quihi cr., branch of a Rio Hondo, branch of a Rio Seco, -branch of the Rio Frio. Some of these maps lay down a branch of the -Frio called Artaceoasa cr. in one instance, and Atascosa cr. in -another; this name is the same as that of a place Pike marks -"Astecostota," and of present Atascosa Co., in which the creek runs to -fall into the Frio in Live Oak Co. - -[III'-5] "Lee Panes" looks at first sight as if intended for Les -Panis, the Pawnees. But this is Pike's way of rendering Lipans. These -were a tribe cognate with Apaches, and therefore of Athapascan stock. -They were often called Lipan Apaches, and sometimes Sipans. Pike -elsewhere speaks of "the language of the Appaches and Le Panis," -showing what he means. - -[III'-6] The trip from the Rio Grande to the San Antonio r. made about -151 m. by Pike's estimates, serving to show the course of the old -Spanish trail as the most direct route then practicable. Pike's -Mariano is now called Medina r.; on this is Castroville, seat of -Medina Co., and the river mostly separates this county from Bexar Co. -Pike sets San Antonio on the N. bank of an affluent of a fork large -enough to look as if it were Rio Cibolo; but this last comes in much -further down the San Antonio, and no doubt he intended simply to -delineate the small forked San Pedro, on one of whose branches the -city was situated. The San Antonio itself is represented as joining -the Guadalupe high up; but these two great rivers only come together -as they approach the coast, to fall into Espiritu Santo bay opposite -Matagorda isl., between Indianola and Arkansas City. On some old maps, -as that in Winterbotham's History, 1795, San Antonio is set on a -stream called Rio Hondo, which is run separately into the Gulf of -Mexico between the Nueces and the Guadalupe. The early importance of -the Mariano or Medina r. as a political boundary ceased of course with -the retirement of Coahuila beyond the Rio Grande, and thus the -extension of Texan territory, through what had been Coahuilan -territory, to New Mexico. The city was formerly more fully called San -Antonio de Bexar, Bejar, Behar, Bexer, etc., to distinguish it from -uncounted other places dedicated to the patron saint of highways by -highwaymen and other persons, and is still the seat of Bexar Co.; pop. -lately 37,673 (scarcely less than that of Dallas). The mission of "St. -Joseph," commonly called San Jose, is figured on p. 69 of Major -Emory's reports, probably looking much as it did when Pike was -received there by the priest; and the steel engraving which forms the -frontispiece of the same volume shows the plaza of the city. San -Antonio is a very old place, having been occupied for military and -ecclesiastical purposes before 1720, was long the most important one -in Texas, was styled Thermopylae of Texas after the massacre of Texans -by Mexicans at Fort Alamo, Mar. 6th, 1836, and is now the second in -size, though the capital of the present State is Austin, on the Rio -Colorado of Texas. - -[III'-7] Sabine r. still forms a portion of the boundary between Texas -and Louisiana--that is, from the Gulf to 32 deg. N., the remainder being -along a meridian to 33 deg.. In consequence of its delimiting office, it -was formerly called Rio Mexicano and Mexican r. Thus "Mexicano R." -appears on the map accompanying Winterbotham's History, N. Y., J. -Reid, 1795. - -[III'-8] Striking the Guadalupe at about the nearest point, in the -vicinity of present town of New Braunfels; to reach it, Rio Cibolo was -crossed, and there was the place called El Beson. There is no such -disparity of size between the Guadalupe and San Antonio rivers as -Pike's map indicates. The former has two main forks, the western one -retaining the name Guadalupe, for which Pike letters "Buenacus." The -other is called Rio San Marco, or San Marcos; it falls in at or near -Gonzales, about 40 m. (direct) below New Braunfels. - -[III'-9] Camp in vicinity of the present town of Lockhart (?). - -[III'-10] Camp short of Bastrop, a comparatively old place on the Rio -Colorado, located at the point where the Spanish trail crossed the -river, about 35 m. below Austin, and present seat of the county of the -same name. Bastrop is a mere village, pop. about 1,650, but the name -was famous in the early annals of Texas, when the Baron Bastrop had -his immense estate on the Washita. Dunbar and Hunter, in their -well-known Observations, etc., which formed one of the tracts -accompanying Jefferson's Message to Congress of Feb. 19th, 1806, -inform us that the Baron's great grant of land from the Spanish -government began near the Bayou Bartholomew, about 12 leagues above -the post on the Washita, and consisted of a square 12 leagues on each -side, or over a million French acres (London ed. 1807, p. 83). Bastrop -seems to have been a prototype of the modern "cattle barons," or -"cattle kings," as they are styled, who generally manage to cover more -ground than Queen Dido did when she stretched a bull's-hide around her -famous city. - -[III'-11] This Red r. or Rio Colorado requires attention to -discriminate it from several others of the same name; they are all -great streams, not to be confounded, in spite of their homonymity: 1. -Red r. of the North, flowing into British America between North Dakota -and Minnesota: see Part I., _passim._ 2. Red r., the uppermost and -smallest one of three branches of the Arkansaw which have been so -called. This was oftenest called Negracka r., but is now usually known -as the Salt fork of the Arkansaw: see note 10, p. 552. 3. Red r., the -middle one of three branches of the Arkansaw which have been so -called, now known as the Cimarron r.: see note 10, p. 553. 4. Red r., -the lowest and largest of the three branches of the Arkansaw which -have been so called; it is the main fork of the Arkansaw, often known -as the Red r. of Arkansas, oftenest now as the Canadian r.: see note -17, p. 558. 5. The Red r. of Louisiana, the Red r. of Natchitoches, -the Red r. of the Mississippi--_the_ Red r. of Pike's Expedition, -which he never found. This is the first (lowest) great branch of the -Mississippi from the W., and the one now most commonly known as the -Red r., without any qualifying phrase, probably never called Colorado -r. One of its Indian names is Kecheahquehono, to be found on some -maps. 6. The Red r. of Texas, the one Pike crosses this 16th of June -near Bastrop, and which flows into the Gulf of Mexico at Matagorda, -between the Guadalupe and the Brazos rivers. This is also the Rio Roxo -or Rojo, and the Rio Colorado, of the Spanish, sometimes qualified as -Rio Colorado del Este, or Colorado r. of the East (though it is the -southernmost of the lot), to distinguish it from: 7. Red r. of the -West; Rio Colorado del Occidente; Colorado r. of the West, flowing -into the Gulf of California. This has seldom been called Red r., and -is always now known as the Colorado, without qualifying terms, as we -very early adopted the Spanish name. We hear of cowboys who "paint the -town red" in carrying their jags, but that is nothing to the way these -rivers have rubricated maps. Easy alliteration of the words "red" and -"river" has doubtless tended to spread the phrase, in the lack of -nomenclatural resources, and in ignorance of the connections of -several of these rivers. - -[III'-12] The "Tancards" of whom Pike speaks on the 16th and 17th, -also called Tankahuas, Tonkawans, Tankaways, etc., were a remarkable -people--a sort of Ishmaelites who roamed about, and seemed to belong -nowhere in particular. Powell styles them a "colluvies gentium" or -fusion of tribes; and what little we know of their local habitation is -derived mainly from Dr. Sibley's notes, supplemented by the above -passages in Pike's narrative. Dr. Sibley's historical letter to -General Dearborn, dated Natchitoches, Apr. 5th, 1805, and first -published with other tracts in Jefferson's Message to Congress of Feb. -19th, 1806, is one of the bases of the literature on this subject. -"The Tankaways (or Tanks, as the French call them)," says Sibley, p. -45 of the London ed., 1807, "have no land, nor claim the exclusive -right to any, nor have any particular place of abode, but are always -moving, alternately occupying the country watered by the Trinity, -Braces [Brazos], and Colerado, towards St. a Fe. Resemble, in their -dress, the Cances [Kanzas] and Hietans [Comanches], but [are] all in -one horde or tribe. Their number of men is estimated at about 200; are -good hunters; kill buffaloe and deer with the bow; have the best breed -of horses; are alternately friends and enemies of the Spaniards. An -old trader lately informed me that he has received 5000 deer skins -from them in one year, exclusive of tallow, rugs and tongues. They -plant nothing, but live upon fruits and flesh: are strong, athletic -people, and excellent horsemen." The history of the tribe dates back -of Sibley and Pike nearly a century, if the first mention of these -Bedouins of the Texan sands in 1719 be taken as its starting-point. In -1876 Gatschet had collected a vocabulary of about 300 words, upon -which linguistic material he classed the people as a separate stock -called Tonkawa, from the Caddoan or Wakoan word _tonkaweya_, implying -that these Indians kept by themselves, aloof from other tribes. The -Tonkawan family is recognized by Powell as one of the 58 distinct -linguistic stocks he adopts in his classification; his map locates the -tribe agreeably with the above indications, and his text adds: "About -1847 they were engaged as scouts in the United States Army, and from -1860-62 (?) were in the Indian Territory; after the secession war till -1884 they lived in temporary camps near Fort Griffin, Shackleford -County, Texas, and in October, 1884, they removed to the Indian -Territory (now on Oakland Reserve). In 1884 there were 78 individuals -living; associated with them were 19 Lipan Apache" (Seventh Ann. Rep. -Bur. Ethn., 1885-86, published 1891, p. 126). Two other Tonkawan -tribes, the Mayes and Yakwal, are extinct or merged in the former; and -several minor bands have been known by name. - -[III'-13] The full style of this river was el Rio de los Brazos de -Dios, River of the Arms of God, which seemed neither blasphemous nor -sacrilegious to the admirable fanatics who so solemnly theographized -geography in their excursions for the salvation of souls, ad majorem -Dei gloriam. It is difficult for us to realize what a queer lot they -were, with their "Monastery Road" to the "Opening of the Virgin," -their Corpus Christi in one place and Sangre de Cristo elsewhere, Holy -Ghost bay, Todos Santos collectively when they ran out of individual -saints, and Rio Trinidad for the whole Trinity after the members of -the divine family had been separately complimented. It is fortunate -that we cannot commit the intellectual anachronism of putting -ourselves in the place of these very sincere servants of a very -moderate polytheism, though the result be that the Brazos is also -called Brasses and Braces r., bringing up a ludicrous association of -ideas with the buttons and suspenders which uphold our trousers, ad -majorem pudorem virorum. Other names of this stream are Riviere Ste. -Therese (or Rio Santa Teresa), and R. Maligne; thus the phrase "St. -Thereseor or Maline R." appears on the map in Winterbotham's History, -1795. The river is the largest one of the series Pike is crossing; it -drains a great area in Texas from the Llanos Estacados or Staked -Plains to the Gulf, which it reaches between Galveston and Matagorda. -The point at which the old Spanish trail struck it is indicated by -Pike's mention of the Little Brazos, a sort of bayou or side-sluice -which runs close to the E. side of the main stream for a great -distance. The crossing was near the mouth of this bayou. - -[III'-14] The streams passed to-day are tributaries of the Brazos, the -larger one mentioned being that afterward known as Navasota r., which -falls in a good way below, at or near a place which was once named -Washington. The high land on the other side, on which was camp, -represents some of the elevation which forms the water-shed between -Brazos and Trinity rivers, and which is passed over next day. The -clause of the text reading "impassable four miles. Overflows swamps, -ponds, etc.," I suppose may be read "impassable for (some) miles -(along its course, where it) overflows (in) swamps, ponds, etc." - -[III'-15] The original Rio Trinidad has become better known under its -equivalent English name of the Trinity, and there is a place lower -down on it which is or was called Trinidad or Trinity (now -Swartwout?). It empties into Galveston bay, and so into the Gulf. The -Spanish trail from the crossing led on to a place called Crockett, in -Houston Co., at or near which camp of the 21st was pitched. A little -above the crossing, on the E. bank of the river, we are informed by -Dr. Sibley, was the residence of the Keyes or Keychias, a Caddoan -tribe which in 1805 mustered 60 men. These are now called Kichais, and -now or lately consisted of about 60 persons. - -[III'-16] For Nacogdoches see next note. The above lacuna in the text -may be presumptively supplied from Pike's map, where the post is -marked to that effect. - -[III'-17] Natches and Neches are obviously the same Indian word, the -root of which appears in Natchitoches and various other names. The two -have run through the usual range of variation in spelling in the -course of writing and printing; but of late years the form Natchez has -become fixed as the name of the well-known city on the Mississippi -below Vicksburg, while the designation of the river has perhaps -acquired stability in the form of Neches. The latter is the principal -stream between the Trinity and the Sabine; it runs south approximately -parallel with both, and falls into the Gulf through Sabine l., as the -Sabine does; in fact, it is collateral with the Sabine, and has been -considered a branch of the latter. The Spanish trail crossed it high -up. Its own main branch is that eastern one known as Rio Angelina or -Angeline r., which Pike crosses on the 24th; and E. of a small branch -of the latter was the site of Nacogdoches. It is now an obscure -village, pop. about 1,200, seat of the county of its own name, which -occupies a space between Angelina and Atoyac rivers; but the place is -an old one, which, like all the others which the Spanish trail went -through, has a long ethnic, civil, and military history. Neches or -Natches r. is to be particularly noted as the ancient seat of a tribe -of Indians who, though a mere handful a century ago, left their name -as a legacy for all time. Sibley (_l. c._, p. 43) speaks of "a small -river, a branch of the Sabine, called the Naches," on which lived the -"Inies, or Tachies (called indifferently by both names)," and adds: -"From the latter name the name of the province of Tachus or Taxus is -derived," _i. e._, Texas. Among the permutations of the word and its -derivatives not the least singular is the English adjective and noun -_Texican_--a word obviously formed upon the model of _Mexican_ from -_Mexico_. I suppose this is modern, and what may be termed cowboy -dialect; I used to hear it constantly when I was in those parts. - -[III'-18] Three lacunae in this sentence, two of which I fill, omitting -the other, which was a long dash in place of the Frenchman's name. We -seem bound by Pike's map to supply "Toyac" as the missing name of the -river he means, though there is certainly no such large river as he -lays down between the Neches and the Sabine. The map is evidently at -fault here, for he runs the Neches into Trinity r., and thus into -Galveston bay, and his "Rio Toyac" comes nearer exhibiting the proper -relations of the Neches with the Sabine. Exactly what his great "Rio -Toyac" may pass for is thus questionable, but the "little river" of -the text, which he crosses after leaving Nacogdoches, must be the -present Atoyac r. (the branch of the Angelina which separates -Nacogdoches Co. from San Augustin Co., for the most part). The route -continues to-day past San Augustin, which was on the Spanish trail, -and on or near another small branch of the Angelina, which runs -between San Augustin Co. and Sabine Co. The place where he stopped on -the 28th, only three hours' march from the Sabine, and where he found -both Frenchmen and Americans, was evidently the exact locality of -which Sibley speaks concerning certain Caddoan Indians known as -Aliche, Eyeish, or Eyish. They were then on the verge of extinction, -having been in 1801 reduced by the smallpox till only 25 of them were -left in 1805. Writing in the latter year he says (_l. c._, p. 43) that -"they were, some years ago, a considerable nation, and lived on a -bayou which bears their name, which the road from Nachitoch to -Nacogdoches crosses, about 12 miles west of Sabine r., on which a few -French and American families are settled." These data fix Pike's camp -with precision. - -[III'-19] The former office of the Sabine or Mexican r. in delimiting -Spanish from American possessions continues to-day in so far as it -represents the boundary between Texas and Louisiana. On crossing it, -our fervid young patriot passed from the military protection of his -Catholic Majesty to that of his Brother Jonathan and Uncle Sam--the -former of these two, by the way, being as actual a person as King -Charles IV. of Spain, and no other than Jonathan Trumbull of -Connecticut. The Spanish trail entered what is now the State of -Louisiana at a point between Hamilton and Sabinetown, both of which -were places on the Texan side of the river. The crossing was but -little above Sabinetown, and between two small watercourses known as -Bayou San Patricio and Bayou San Miguel, both running in Sabine Co., -La. His camp of the 30th seems to have been between Bayou Miguel and -the next below, now called Lennan; and these two I suppose to be the -ones he lays down as running into the Sabine together, as they do, -pretty nearly. - -[III'-20] General Wilkinson's "marquee," the location of which Pike -took pleasure in imagining, was the large tent used by field and -general officers; the name is not often heard now, though the word is -hardly obsolete. Old Fort Jesup was built directly on the continuation -of the Spanish trail in Louisiana, rather less than half-way from the -Sabine to Red r. A short distance S. of this was a place whose name -appears on various maps as Many, Manny, Maney, and by accident -Mary--the latter on Emory's, 1857-58, which I think is one of the most -accurate and altogether useful maps ever drawn to a scale of 1 : -6,000,000. A glance at this shows Pike's trail from the Rio Grande to -the Red r. in all its main features; and though many desirable details -are necessarily lacking, not one is misleading. - -[III'-21] This short clause brings up a number of interesting points. -The hill is among the slight elevations which together form the -water-shed between the Sabine and Red r. This rise of ground -corresponds in a general way with the boundary between Sabine and -Nachitoches cos. in Louisiana, parting the numberless and mostly -unnamed small waters which make on either hand for their respective -outlets in the two rivers. Pike is already on the Red River side, -among the runs which discharge into the body of water known as the -Spanish l., and which finds its way into Red r. by various channels. -This is the place where "anciently stood," as he informs us, the -village of the mysterious tribe of Indians he calls Adyes and Adayes. -These have a long history; but the literature of the subject is mainly -a presentation of our ignorance. Powell says that the first mention of -them occurs in the Naufragios of Cabeca de Vaca, who calls them -Atayos, about 1540, and that they are also noted by various early -French explorers of the Mississippi, as d'Iberville and Joutel. The -fortified camp of which Pike speaks was built in 1715 and known as the -Mission of Adayes. From documents preserved in San Antonio de Bexar, -examined by Mr. A. S. Gatschet in 1886, it appears that 14 Adai -families emigrated to a place S. of that town in 1792; these were -afterward lost sight of. According to Baudry de Lozieres, as cited by -Powell, 100 Adaizans were left at home in 1802. Turning to Sibley (_l. -c._ p. 42), we find that in 1805 there were 20 men and more women -living "about 40 miles from Natchitoches, below the Yattassees [a -tribe that lived on Bayou Pierre or Stony creek], on a lake called Lac -Macdon, which communicated with the division of Red river that passes -by Bayau Pierre. They live at or near where their ancestors have lived -from time immemorial. They being the nearest nation to the old Spanish -fort, or Mission of Adaize, that place was named after them, being -about 20 miles from them, to the south." Dr. Sibley collected a -vocabulary of about 250 words, the sole basis we have for the modern -scientific classification of the tribe, upon the only sure principle -of natural generation as indicated by mother-tongues. "Their language -differs from all others," says Dr. Sibley, "and is so difficult to -speak or understand, that no [other] nation can speak ten words of it: -but they all speak Caddo, and most of them French." He adds that they -were always attached to the latter, with whom they sided against the -Natchez; and that after the Natchez massacre of 1798, while the -Spanish occupied Fort Adaize, the priests took much pains in vain to -make them believe what was told them about Catholic dogma. This is -practically the sum of what is known of these evidently intelligent -and manly people; the rest of the literature is mainly the conclusions -reached upon the subject by various authors. The consensus of opinion -very properly classifies the Adaize, Adaizi, Adaise, Adaes, Adees, -Adayes, Adyes, Adahi, or Adai, as a distinct linguistic stock, lately -called the Adaizan family, whose affinities, more or less remote, are -with the Caddoan. - -[III'-22] Natchitoches, or some other form of this word, was -originally the name of a certain tribe of Indians of the Southern -Caddoan family, and of the island on which they dwelt in Red r., at -the site of the town which later arose there and is still so called. -We hear of these people and their place very early in French colonial -history. In Sept., 1688, Henri de Tonti was visited at his Fort St. -Louis on the Illinois, by Couture, one of his men whom he had left at -Arkansas Post in 1686, who apprized him of La Salle's tragic death. He -set off (he says, in Oct., 1689--probably a wrong date from memory) in -Dec., 1688, descended the Illinois and Miss. rivers to Red r., and -went up this, reaching the Natchitoches Feb. 17th and the Caddodaquis -Mar. 28th, 1689: so Parkman's La Salle, etc., p. 439. He was told that -some of the assassins or those in the plot to murder their leader were -at a village of the Naouadiches, some 85 leagues S. W., whither he -went, but found no trace of Hiens and his confederates. After much -suffering, including an illness at his Arkansas Post, he regained Fort -St. Louis Sept., 1689: Wallace, Hist. Ill. and La., 1893, p. 188 -_seq._ According to this authority the present town dates from Jan., -1717, when Antoine de la Mothe Cadillac, governor of Louisiana under -Crozat, sent a sergeant and some soldiers to establish a post on the -island, which was commanded _ca._ 1721-28 by Louis Juchereau de St. -Denis (b. Quebec, Sept. 18th, 1676, d. _post_ 1731). This notable -character, uncle of D'Iberville's wife, Chevalier, etc., is the "Mons. -St. Dennie" of Sibley's notice of the Natchitoches, p. 49, where it is -said he was still in command after the Natchez massacre of 1728; "the -Indians called him the Big Foot, were fond of him, for he was a brave -man." According to Gayarre, Hist. La., II. p. 355, the foreign -population of Natchitoches was 811 by a census made under Gov. -O'Reilly, _ca._ 1769, or when the French had been in Louisiana 70 -years. Sibley, writing at Natchitoches Apr. 5th, 1805, says that an -elderly French gentleman then living had shortly before informed him -that the informant remembered when the Natchitoches were 600 men -strong: this should represent _ca._ 3,000 total souls. - -[III'-23] Constant Freeman of Massachusetts had been a captain in the -Revolutionary army when he was made major of the 1st Regiment of -Artillerists and Engineers, Feb. 28th, 1795; promoted to be -lieutenant-colonel of Artillerists, Apr. 1st, 1802; transferred to -corps of Artillery, May 12th, 1814; and honorably discharged June -15th, 1815; he had been brevetted colonel July 10th, 1812, and he died -Feb. 27th, 1824. - -Elijah Strong of Connecticut was an ensign of the 1st sub-Legion Feb. -23d, 1793; lieutenant, July 1st, 1794; transferred to 1st Infantry, -Nov. 1st, 1796; captain, Oct. 23d, 1799; major, 7th Infantry, Dec. -15th, 1808; and died June 9th, 1811. - -Charles Wollstonecraft of England was appointed from Pennsylvania to -be a lieutenant of the 2d Artillerists and Engineers, June 4th, 1798; -he became a lieutenant of Artillerists, Apr. 1st, 1802; captain, Mar. -15th, 1805; was transferred to the corps of Artillery, May 12th, 1814; -on the 15th of March, 1815, he was brevetted major for 10 years' -faithful service in one grade, and Sept. 28th, 1817, he died. - -Thomas A. Smith of Virginia was appointed from Georgia a second -lieutenant of Artillerists, Dec. 15th, 1803; became first lieutenant, -Dec. 31st, 1805, and captain of Rifles, May 3d, 1808; he was a -brigadier general in 1814, resigned Nov. 10th, 1818, and died in a few -weeks. - -[III'-24] In the orig. ed. this weather diary occupied an unpaged leaf -following p. 278 of the main text of Pt. 3, being thus pp. 279, 280. I -leave it in the same relative position, and pass it without further -remark. - - - - -CHAPTER IV. - -OBSERVATIONS ON NEW SPAIN.[IV'-1] - - -The kingdom of New Spain[IV'-2] lies between 16 deg. and 44 deg. N. lat., and -96 deg. and 118 deg. W. long. It is divided into two separate and independent -governments, and these again into various subdivisions. - -I. The viceroyalty includes: - -1. The administration of Guadalaxara,[IV'-3] which lies between 18 deg. -30' and 24 deg. 30' N. lat., and 104 deg. and 109 deg. W. long., and is bounded -south and west by the South Sea, north by the provinces of Biscay -[Nueva Viscaya] and Sinaloa; N. E. by the administration of Zacatecas; -E. by the administration of Guanaxuato, and S. E. by that of -Valladolid. It is 350 miles in length from northwest to southeast, and -250 in width east and west. Its population may be estimated at -100,000. It is one of the most luxuriant and rich administrations in -the viceroyalty; and is watered from east to west by the great river -de Santego [Rio Grande de Santiago], which receives most of its waters -from Lac [Lago] de Chapala. Guadalaxara, the capital, was built by one -of the Gusman family in 1551, and in 1570 the bishopric was removed -from Compostela to that place. It is the seat of the audience of -Guadalaxara, which includes Guadalaxara and the administration of -Zacatecas. The population of this city may be estimated at 75,000; it -stands in N. lat. 20 deg. 50', W. long. 105 deg.. - -2. The administration of Valladolid[IV'-4] lies between 22 deg. 10' and -18 deg. 12' N. lat., and 102 deg. and 105 deg. W. long., and is bounded south by -the South sea [Pacific ocean] and part of Mexico, east and northeast -by the latter, and north by that of Guanaxuato. Its greatest length -from northeast to southwest is 230 miles, and its greatest width, east -and west, 190 miles. Its population may be estimated at 360,000. Its -capital of the same name is situated in about 20 deg. N. lat., 103 deg. 25'' -W. long. Population unknown. - -3. The administration of Mexico[IV'-5] lies between 21 deg. 30' and 16 deg. -30' N. lat., and 99 deg. and 105 deg. W. long., and is bounded south by the -South Sea, east by the governments of La Puebla and La Vera Cruz, -north by that of St. Louis, and west by Valladolid and Guanaxuato. Its -greatest length, north and south, may be 360 miles, and its greatest -width, which is on the Western Ocean, is 200 miles. Its population may -be estimated at 1,500,000 souls. The capital of this administration, -and of the whole kingdom, is Mexico; a particular description of which -is deemed unnecessary. From every information I could obtain from -persons who had resided in it for years, it does not contain more than -200,000 inhabitants. Its being the residence of the viceroy, whose -court is more splendid than that at Madrid; its central position as to -the ports of Acapulco and Vera Cruz; together with the rich and -luxuriant vale which surrounds it, will, whenever the Spanish -Americans burst the present bonds of slavery in which they are bound, -give to Mexico all those advantages which great wealth, a large -population, and a commanding situation concentrate, and assuredly make -it one of the greatest cities in the world. In point of population, it -is now in the second rank, and in beauty, riches, magnificence, and -splendor, in the first. - -4. The administration of Oxaca [Oaxaca or Oajaca[IV'-6]] lies between -18 deg. and 16 deg. N. lat., and 98 deg. and 112 deg. W. long., and is bounded south -by the South Sea, west by the government of La Puebla, north by Mexico -and Vera Cruz, and east by the province of Gualamalia [Guatemala]. -Its greatest length, east and west, is 230 miles, and its width, north -and south, 175 miles. Its population may be estimated at 520,000 -souls. Its capital is Oxaca, in 17 deg. 30' N. lat., 99 deg. 25' W. long. - -5. The administration of Vera Cruz[IV'-7] lies between 17 deg. and 22 deg. N. -lat., and 98 deg. and 101 deg. W. long., and is bounded north and east by the -gulf of Mexico, south by Oxaca, west by Puebla and Mexico. Its -greatest length, N. W. and S. E., is 430 miles, and its width, E. and -W., not more than 60 miles. Its population may be estimated at -220,000. Its capital is Vera Cruz, which is the sole port of entry for -all the kingdom on the Atlantic ocean, as that of Acapulco is on the -Western. Its population may be estimated at 30,000 souls, and is in -19 deg. 10' N. lat. and 98 deg. 30' W. long. This city was taken and sacked by -the English on the 17th of May, 1683, since which the works for its -defense [present Castle of San Juan de Ulua] have been made so very -strong as almost to bid defiance to an attack from the sea. - -6. The administration de la Puebla[IV'-8] lies between 20 deg. and 16 deg. N. -lat., and 100 deg. and 102 deg. W. long., and is bounded south by the South -sea, east by Oxaca and Vera Cruz, north and west by Mexico; it is near -300 miles in its greatest length from north to south, and 120 in its -greatest width from east to west. Its population may be estimated at -800,000 souls. Its capital is the city of La Puebla, estimated at -80,000 souls, which is in 19 deg. 12' N. lat., and 100 deg. 50' W. long. - -7. The administration of Guanaxuato [or Guanajuato[IV'-9]] lies -between 21 deg. 30' and 23 deg. 30' N. lat., and 103 deg. and 105 deg. W. long., and -is bounded south by Valladolid, east by Mexico, south by St. Louis -[and] Zacataca, and west by Guadalaxara. Its greatest extent, from -north to south, is 75 miles, and from east to west, 85. Its population -may be estimated at 500,000 souls. Its capital city is Guanaxuato, in -lat. 21 deg. N., long. 103 deg. W. - -8. The administration of Zacataca [Zacatecas[IV'-10]] lies between 21 deg. -20' and 24 deg. 52' N. lat., and 103 deg. and 105 deg. 30' W. long., and is -bounded north by the internal province of Biscay, east by St. Louis, -west by Guadalaxara, and south by Guanaxuato. Its greatest length is -210 miles, north and south, and its greatest width is 145 miles, from -east to west. Its population may be estimated at 250,250 souls. The -capital, Zacataca, stands in 23 deg. N. lat. and 104 deg. W. long. - -9. The administration of St. Louis [San Luis Potosi[IV'-11]] lies -between 21 deg. 20' and 28 deg. 50' N. lat., and 99 deg. and 102 deg. W. long., -includes Texas and St. Ander [Nuevo Santander] in this dimension, and -is bounded north by New Leon, east by the province of St. Ander, south -by Guanaxuato and Mexico, and west by Zacataca. Its greatest length -from north to south is 200, and its width from east to west is 170 -miles. Its population may be estimated at 311,500 souls. Its capital -is St. Louis de Potosi, the population of which is 60,000; it stands -in 22 deg. N. lat., 103 deg. W. long., and was founded in 1568 [1576]. - -II. The province of Nuevo San Ander [Santander[IV'-12]] is bounded -north by the province of Texas, west by Nuevo Leon and Cogquillo -[Coahuila], south by St. Louis, and east by the Atlantic Ocean; from -north to south it is about 500 miles in length, but from east to west -not more than 150. Its population may be estimated at 38,000 souls. -The capital, New San Ander [Nuevo Santander], is on the river of that -name [also known as the Rio Jimenez, and Rio de las Palmas], about 40 -miles from the sea, in 23 deg. 45' N. lat. and 101 deg. W. long. - -III. The kingdom of New Leon [Nuevo Leon[IV'-13]] is bounded east by -New San Ander, north by Cogquilla, west by Biscay, and south by St. -Louis and Zacataca; its greatest length north and south is 250 miles; -width, east and west, 100 miles. Its population may be estimated at -30,000 souls. Its capital, Mont El Rey [Monterey], is situated on the -headwaters of Tiger river, which discharges into the gulf of Mexico. -The city of Mont El Rey contains about 11,000 souls, and is the seat -of the bishop, Don Dio Premiro, who visited the port of Natchitoches -when it was commanded by Captain Turner, of the 2d U. S. regiment of -infantry. His episcopal jurisdiction extends over Nuevo San Ander, New -Leon, Cogquilla, and Texas, and his salary is equal to $100,000 per -annum. Mont El Rey is situated in 26 deg. N. lat. and 102 deg. W. long. There -are many rich mines near the city of Mont El Rey, whence, I am -informed, there are taken to be coined 100 mule-loads of bullion in -silver and gold monthly, which may be presumed to be not more than the -three-fifths of what is taken from the mines, as there are many -persons who prefer never getting their metal coined, as then it is -not so easily ascertained what they are worth, which is an -all-important secret in a despotic government. - - * * * * * - -The foregoing nine administrations or intendencias, the province of -Nuevo San Ander, and the kingdom of [Nuevo] Leon, are included in the -two audiences of Guadalaxara and Mexico, and form, as I believe, the -whole political government of the viceroy of Mexico; but I am not -positive whether his jurisdiction does not include the audience of -Guatimalia [Guatemala], which lies to the south, and includes the -province of that name, that of Chiapa [Chiapas], Yucatan, Veraqua -[Veragua], Costa Rica, and Honduras. An audience is the high court of -appeals in which the viceroy presides and has two votes; it is -intended as a check on his power and authority. - -The administrations are governed by intendants, who are officers of -high rank, and always Europeans. - -The longitude given is from the meridian of Paris. - -In the general view of New Spain,[IV'-14] I shall take some notice of -the manners, customs, political force, etc., of the viceroyalty; but, -as I do not pretend to be correctly informed as to that quarter of the -kingdom, and there have been so many persons who have given statements -on those heads, I shall confine my observations principally to the -internal provinces through which I passed, and on which I made my -observations. - - -INTERNAL PROVINCES. - -1. NEW MEXICO. [_Geography._ The province of New Mexico] lies between -lat. 30 deg. 30' and 44 deg. N., and long. 104 deg. and 108 deg. W., and is the most -northern province of the kingdom of New Spain. It extends northwest into -an undefined boundary, is bounded north and east by Louisiana, south -by Biscay and Cogquilla, and west by Senora and California.[IV'-15] -Its length is unknown; its breadth may be 600 miles; but the inhabited -part is not more than 400 miles in length and 50 in breadth, lying -along the river del Norte, from lat. 37 deg. to 31 deg. 30' N.; but in this -space there is a desert of more than 250 miles. - -_Air and Climate._ No persons accustomed to reside in the temperate -climate of lat. 36 deg. and 37 deg. N. in the United States can form any idea -of the piercing cold which is experienced on that parallel in New -Mexico; but the air is serene and unaccompanied by damps or fogs, as -it rains but once a year, and some years not at all. It is a -mountainous country. The grand dividing ridges which separate the -waters of the rio del Norte from those of California border it on the -line of its western limits, and are covered, in some places, with -eternal snows, which give a keenness to the air that could not be -calculated upon or expected in a temperate zone. - -_Timber and Plains._ The cotton tree [_Populus_] is the only tree of -this province, except some scrubby pines and cedars at the foot of the -mountains [and many other species there and elsewhere]. The former -borders the banks of the rio del Norte and its tributary streams. All -the rest of the country presents to the eye a barren wild of poor -land, scarcely to be improved by culture, and appears to be only -capable of producing sufficient subsistence for those animals which -live on succulent plants and herbage. - -_Mines, Minerals, and Fossils._ There are no mines known in the -province, except one of copper situated in a mountain on the west side -of the rio del Norte, in lat. 34 deg. N. [see note 26, p. 637]. It is -worked, and produces 20,000 mule-loads of copper annually. It also -furnishes that article for the manufactories of nearly all the -internal provinces. It contains gold, but not quite sufficient to pay -for its extraction; consequently it has not been pursued. - -There is, near Santa Fe, in some of the mountains, a stratum of talc, -which is so large and flexible as to render it capable of being -subdivided into thin flakes, of which the greater proportion of the -houses in Santa Fe, and in all the villages to the north, have their -window-lights made. - -_Rivers._ The river del Norte takes its source in the mountains which -give birth to the headwaters of California, the Plata [South Platte], -Pierre Jaune ["Yellowstone," _i. e._, North Platte] of the Missouri, -and Arkansaw of the Mississippi, in lat. 40 deg. N. and long. 110 deg. -W.[IV'-16] Its distance from its source to the gulf of Mexico may be, -by its meanders, estimated at 2,000 miles, passing through the -provinces of New Mexico, part of Biscay, Cogquilla, and New San Ander, -where it falls into the gulf at lat. 26 deg. N. It cannot, in any part of -its course, be termed a navigable stream, owing to the sand-bars. In -the flat country and mountains in the upper part, with which its -course is interrupted, small boats might ascend as high as the -Presidio de Rio Grande in Cogquilla, and it might be navigable for -canoes in various parts of its course. In the mountains above Santa Fe -it afforded amply sufficient water for canoe navigation, and even -more than appeared to be flowing in its bed in the plains. This must -be attributed to numerous canals and the dry sandy soil through which -the river courses, where much of the water which flows from the -mountains must be absorbed and lost. In the province of New Mexico it -is called the Rio del Norte; below it is termed the Rio Grande; but in -no instance did I hear it called the Rio Bravo, as many of our ancient -maps designate it. - -There are also, in the limits of this province, to the west, the -rivers San Rafael, San Xavier, de los Dolores, also de los Anamas or -Nabajoa, all of which join and form the great Rio Colorado of -California.[IV'-17] The two first take their sources in the same -mountains as the Rio del Norte, but on the west side. - -The river Colorado, by its meanders, may be about 1,000 miles in -length, from its sources to its discharge into the head of the gulf of -California, in the 33d degree of N. lat. [about 32 deg.]. It has been -represented to me, by men of information and research, to be -navigable for square-rigged vessels at least 300 miles from the gulf. -By this river and the Arkansaw there could be the best communication -established between the Pacific and the Atlantic oceans. There are -represented to be various numerous and warlike nations of Indians on -its banks. Through the whole of its course its banks are entirely -destitute of timber, and indeed I was informed that for 300 miles -there was not a tree ten inches in diameter. - -The river S. Buenaventura empties into the Pacific ocean to the north -of California in 39 deg. 30' N. latitude, and takes its source in the -Sierre Madre to the north of the Colorado and del Norte.[IV'-18] - -The Rio Gila[IV'-19] heads opposite the copper-mines, and discharges -into the gulf of California, just below the Colorado, in the 33d -degree of N. latitude. - -The Rio Puerto [Pecos[IV'-20]] is a branch of the Rio del Norte; it -comes from the north and joins that river about 100 miles below the -Presidio del Norte. - -None of the foregoing streams present any evidence of civilization on -their shores excepting the Rio del Norte. - -_Lakes._ I heard of no lakes in the province, except that of -Tampanagos, the existence of which I consider very doubtful. It is -said to commence, according to Father Escalante, in the 40th deg. N. -lat., and to have been explored to the 42d deg. in a N. W. direction, -where it enlarged its dimensions, and the discoverer thought proper to -return.[IV'-21] - -_Animals._ North Mexico produces deer, elk, buffalo, cabrie, the -gresley [grizzly and] black bear, and wild horses. - -_Population._ Its population is not far short of 30,000 souls, -one-twentieth of which may be Spaniards from Europe, or Chapetones -[Gachupines[IV'-22]], four-twentieths Creoles, five-twentieths Metifs, -and the other half civilized Indians. - -The capital is Santa Fe, situated on a small stream which empties into -the east side of the Rio del Norte, at the foot of the mountains which -divide the waters of that river from the Arkansaw and the Red river of -the Mississippi, in 36 deg. N. lat. and 100 deg. W. long. It is an oblong -square, extending about one mile from east to west on the banks of the -creek. In the centre is the public square, one side of which forms -the flank of the soldiers' square, which is closed and in some degree -defended by the round towers in the angles which flank the four -curtains; another side of the square is formed by the palace of the -governor, his guard-houses, etc.; the third side is occupied by the -priests and their suite, and the fourth by the Chapetones who reside -in the city. The houses are generally only one story high, with flat -roofs, and have a very mean appearance on the outside; but some of -them are richly furnished, especially with plate. - -The second cities in the province are Albuquerque and Passo [El Paso] -del Norte. The latter is the most southern city of the province, as -Tons [Taos] is the most northern. Between the village of Sibilleta and -the Passo there is a wilderness of near 200 miles [including the -Jornada del Muerto]. - -_Trade and Commerce._ New Mexico carries on a trade direct with Mexico -through Biscay [Nueva Viscaya], also with Senora [Sonora] and Sinaloa; -it sends out about 30,000 sheep annually, tobacco, dressed deer and -cabrie skins, some furs, buffalo robes, salt, and wrought copper -vessels of a superior quality. It receives in return, from Biscay and -Mexico, dry goods, confectionery, arms, iron, steel, ammunition, and -some choice European wines and liquors; from Senora and Sinaloa, -gold, silver, and cheese. The following articles sell in this -province, as stated, which will show the cheapness of provisions and -the extreme dearness of imported goods: Flour sells, per hundred, at -$2; salt, per mule-load, $5; sheep, each, $1; beeves, each, $5; wine -del Passo, per barrel, $15; horses, each, $11; mules, each, $30; -superfine cloths, per yard, $25; fine cloths, per yard, $20; linen, -per yard, $4, and all other dry goods in proportion. - -The journey with loaded mules from Santa Fe to Mexico, and returning -to Santa Fe, takes five months. They manufacture rough leather, -cigars, a vast variety and quantity of potters' ware, cotton, some -coarse woolen cloths, and blankets of a superior quality. All those -manufactures are carried on by the civilized Indians, as the Spaniards -think it more honorable to be agriculturists than mechanics. The -Indians likewise far exceed their conquerors in their genius for, and -execution of, all mechanical operations. - -About two miles above the town of Passo del Norte is a bridge over the -river, where the road passes to the west side, at which place is a -large canal [acequia]. This takes out an ample supply of water for the -purpose of cultivation, which is here carried on in as great -perfection as at any place that I visited in the provinces. There is a -wall bordering the canal the whole way on both sides, to protect it -from the animals; and when it arrives at the village, it is -distributed in such a manner that each person has his fields watered -in rotation. At this place were as finely cultivated fields of wheat -and other small grain as I ever saw; and numerous vineyards, from -which were produced the finest wine ever drank in the country, which -was celebrated through all the provinces, and was the only wine used -on the table of the commanding general. - -_Agriculture._ They cultivate corn, wheat, rye, barley, rice, tobacco, -vines, and all the common culinary plants cultivated in the same -latitude in the United States. New Mexico has the exclusive right of -cultivating tobacco. They are, however, a century behind us in the -art of cultivation; for, notwithstanding their numerous herds of -cattle and horses, I have seen them frequently breaking up whole -fields with a hoe. Their oxen draw by the horns, after the French -mode. Their carts are extremely awkward and clumsily made. During the -whole of the time we were in New Spain I never saw a horse in a -vehicle of any description, mules being made use of in carriages, as -well as for the purposes of labor. - -_Antiquities._ On the river St. Francis,[IV'-23] a large branch of -the river Gila, which heads near the copper mines in New Mexico and -discharges into the Red river of California, are the remains of old -walls and houses which are ascertained to have been the work of the -Mexicans on their route emigrating from the northwest to the plains of -Mexico, where they finally established themselves. Those walls are of -a black cement, the durability of which increases with its age, so -that it has hitherto bid defiance to the war of time. Its composition -is now entirely lost. There is also found at this place many broken -pieces of earthenware, which still possess the glazing as perfectly as -when first put on. - -_Aborigines._[IV'-24] The Kyaways [Kiowas] wander on the sources of -La Platte and are supposed to be 1,000 men strong. They possess -immense herds of horses, and are at war with both Pawnees and Tetaus -[Ietans, Comanches], as well as the Sioux. They are armed with bows, -arrows, and lances, and hunt the buffalo. This nation, with the Tetaus -and Utahs, all speak the same language. The Utahs wander at the -sources of the Rio del Norte, are supposed to be 2,000 warriors -strong, are armed in the same manner, and pursue the same game, as -the Kyaways. They are, however, a little more civilized, from having -more connection with the Spaniards, with whom they are frequently at -war, but were then at peace, and waging war with the Tetaus.[IV'-25] - -A battle was fought between them and the Tetaus in September, 1806, -near the village of Tons [Taos]: there were about 400 combatants on -each side, but they were separated by a Spanish alcalde riding out to -the field of battle. There were 8 or 10 killed on each side. The Utahs -gave all the horses taken to the Spaniards. This shows in a strong -degree the influence the Spaniards have over those Indians. - -The Nanahaws [Navajos[IV'-26]] are situated to the N. W. of Santa Fe. -They frequently war with the Spaniards, and are supposed to be 2,000 -warriors strong. They are armed in the same manner as the two -preceding nations. This nation, as well as all the others to the west -of them bordering on California, speak the language of the Appaches -and Le Panis [Lipans[IV'-27]], who are in a line with them to the -Atlantic. - -The Appaches[IV'-28] are a nation of Indians who extend from the -Black mountains in New Mexico to the frontiers of Cogquilla, keeping -the frontiers of three provinces in a continual state of alarm, and -making it necessary to employ nearly 2,000 dragoons to escort the -caravans, protect the villages, and revenge the various attacks they -are continually making on the subjects of his Catholic Majesty. This -nation formerly extended from the entrance of the Rio Grande to the -Gulf of California, and have waged a continual warfare, excepting -short truces, with the Spaniards, from the time these pushed their -enterprises back from Mexico into the internal provinces. It is -extremely difficult to say what are their numbers at the present day, -but they must be very much reduced, from their long and constant -warfare, the wandering and savage life they lead in the mountains, -which is so injurious to an increase of population, and in which they -are frequently extremely pinched by famine. - -At the commencement of their warfare the Spaniards used to take them -prisoners and make slaves of them; but finding that their -unconquerable attachment to liberty made them surmount every -difficulty and danger in returning to their mountains, they adopted -the mode of sending them to Cuba. This the Appaches no sooner learned -than they refused to give or receive quarter, and in no instance have -any been taken since that period, except those surprised when asleep, -or knocked down and overpowered. - -Their arms are the bow and arrow, and the lance. Their bow forms two -demi-circles, with a shoulder in the middle; the back of it is -entirely covered with sinews, which are laid on in so nice a manner, -by the use of some glutinous substance, as to be almost imperceptible; -this gives great elasticity to the weapon. Their arrow is more than -the "cloth yard" of the English, being three feet and a half long, the -upper part consisting of some light rush or cane, into which is -inserted a shaft of about one foot, made of some hard, seasoned light -wood; the point is of iron, bone, or stone, and, when the arrow enters -the body, in attempting to extract it the shaft comes out of its -socket and the point remains in the wound. With this weapon they shoot -with such force as to go through the body of a man at a distance of -100 yards, and an officer told me that in an engagement with them, one -of their arrows struck his shield and dismounted him in an instant. -Their other weapon of offense is a lance of 15 feet in length, with -which they charge with both hands over their heads, managing their -horses principally with their knees. With this weapon they are -considered an overmatch for any Spanish dragoon single-handed; but, -for want of a knowledge of tactics, they can never stand the charge of -a body which acts in concert. They all carry shields. Some few are -armed with guns and ammunition taken from the Spaniards. Those, as -well as the archers, generally march to war on foot; but the lancemen -are always mounted. Numerous are the anecdotes I have heard related of -their personal bravery and the spirit of their partisan corps. Not -long before I went into that country a cornet, with 63 dragoons, -between New Mexico and Biscay, was surrounded by about 200 Apaches' -infantry. Instead of charging through them, as [he should have done, -since] it was on the plain, he ordered his dragoons to dismount and -fight with their carabines; in consequence of which he and his whole -party fell a sacrifice. - -Malgares related an instance when he was marching with 140 men and -they were attacked by a party of Appaches, both horse and foot, who -continued the fight for four hours. Whenever the Spanish dragoons -would make a general charge, the Appaches' cavalry would retreat -behind their infantry, who met the Spaniards with a shower of arrows, -who immediately retreated; and even the gallant Malgares spoke of the -Spanish cavalry's breaking the Appaches infantry as a thing not to be -thought of. - -Malgares assured me that, if the Appaches had seconded the efforts and -bravery of their chieftain, the Spaniards must have been defeated and -cut to pieces; that in various instances he rallied his men and -brought them up to the charge, and that when they fled, he retired -indignantly to the rear. Seeing Malgares very actively engaged in -forming and bringing up the Spaniards, the Appache chieftain rode out -ahead of his party and challenged him to single combat with his lance. -This my friend refused, as he said that the chief was one of the -stoutest men he knew, carried a remarkably heavy lance, and rode a -very fine charger; but one of his corporals, enraged to see the -Spaniards thus braved by this savage, begged permission to meet the -"infidel." His officer refused his request and ordered him to keep his -ranks; but he reiterating the request, his superior in a passion told -him to go. The Indian chief had turned his horse to join his party, -but seeing an enemy advancing, he turned, gave a shout, and met him at -full speed. The dragoon thought to parry the lance of his antagonist, -which he in part effected; but not throwing it quite high enough, it -entered his neck before and came out at the nape, when he fell dead to -the ground, and his victorious enemy gave a shout of victory, in which -he was joined by all his followers. This enraged the Spaniards to -such a degree that they made a general charge, in which the Indian -cavalry again retreated, notwithstanding the entreaties of their -gallant leader. - -In another instance a small smoke was discovered on the prairie; three -poor savages were surrounded by 100 dragoons and ordered to lay down -their arms; they smiled at the officer's demand, and asked him if he -could suppose that men who had arms in their hands would ever consent -to become slaves. The officer, being loath to kill them, held a -conference for an hour; when, finding that his threats had as little -effect as his entreaties, he ordered his men to attack them at a -distance, keeping out of the reach of their arrows, and firing at them -with their carabines, which they did, the Indians never ceasing to -resist as long as life remained. - -In a truce which was held a Spanish captain was ordered to treat with -some of the bands. He received their deputies with hauteur, and they -could not come upon terms. The truce was broken, and the Indians -retreated to their fastnesses in the mountains. In a day or two this -same officer pursued them. They were in a place called the Door in the -Mountain, where but two or three dragoons could enter at a time, and -there were rocks and caves on the flanks behind which the Indians -secreted themselves until a number of the Spaniards had come in. Then -the Indians sounded a trumpet; the attack began, and continued on the -side of the Appaches until the Spanish captain fell, when the Indian -chief caused the firing to cease, saying that the man who had so -haughtily spurned the proffered peace was now dead. On this occasion -they deviated from their accustomed rule of warfare, and made a -prisoner of a young officer, who, during the truce, had treated them -with great kindness, and sent him home safe and unhurt. - -Some of the bands have made temporary truces with the Spaniards, and -received from them 25 cents per diem each. Those people hang round the -fortifications of the country, drink, shoot, and dissipate their time; -they are haughty and independent. Great jealousy exists between them -and the Spaniards. An officer was under trial, when I was in the -country, for anticipating an attack on his fortress by attacking the -chiefs of the supposed conspiracy, and putting them to death before -they had time to mature and carry their plan into execution. The -decision of his case I never learned; but those savages who have been -for some time about the forts and villages become by far the most -dangerous enemies the Spaniards have, when hostile, as they have -acquired the Spanish language, manners, and habits, pass through the -populated parts under the disguise of civilized and friendly Indians, -commit murders and robberies, and are not suspected. There is in the -province of Cogquilla a partisan by the name of Ralph, who, they -calculate, has killed more than 300 persons. He comes into the towns -under the disguise of a peasant, buys provisions, goes to the -gambling-tables and to mass, and before he leaves the village is sure -to kill some person or carry off a woman, which he has frequently -done. Sometimes he joins people traveling on the road, insinuates -himself into their confidence, and takes his opportunity to -assassinate them. He has only six followers, and from their knowledge -of the country, activity, and cunning, he keeps about 300 Spanish -dragoons continually employed. The government has offered $1,000 for -his head. - -The civilized Indians of the province of New Mexico are of what were -formerly 24 different bands, the different names of which I did not -become acquainted with, but the Keres were one of the most powerful; -they form at present the population of St. Domingo, St. Philips, Deis, -and one or two other towns.[IV'-29] They are men of large stature, -round full visage, fine teeth, appear to be of a gentle, tractable -disposition, and resemble the Osage more than any nation of whom I -possess any knowledge. They are not the vassals of individuals, yet -may properly be termed the slaves of the State, for they are compelled -to do military duty, drive mules, carry loads, or, in fact, perform -any other act of duty or bondage that the will of the commandant of -the district, or of any passing military tyrant, chooses to ordain. - -I was myself eye-witness of a scene which made my heart bleed for -those poor wretches, at the same time that it excited my indignation -and contempt, that they would suffer themselves, with arms in their -hands, to be beaten and knocked about by beings no ways their -superiors, unless a small tint of complexion could be supposed to give -that superiority. Before we arrived at Santa Fe, one night, we were -near one of the villages where resided the families of two of our -Indian horsemen. They took the liberty to pay them a visit in the -night. Next morning the whole of the Indian horsemen were called up, -and because they refused to testify against their imprudent -companions, several were knocked down from their horses by the Spanish -dragoons with the butt of their lances; yet, with the blood streaming -down their visages, and arms in their hands, they stood cool and -tranquil--not a frown, not a word of discontent or palliation escaped -their lips. Yet what must have been the boiling indignation of their -souls at the indignities offered by the wretch clothed with a little -brief authority! The day of retribution will come in thunder and in -vengeance. - -Those savages are armed with bow and arrows, and with lances, or -escopates. Although they are said to be converted to Christianity, -they still retain many of their ancient rituals, feasts, and -ceremonies, one of which is so remarkable it must not be passed -unnoticed. Once a year there is a great feast prepared for three -successive days, which they spend in eating, drinking, and dancing. -Near this scene of amusement is a dark cave, into which not a glimpse -of light can penetrate, and in which are prepared places to repose on. -To this place persons of all description, of both sexes and of all -ages, after puberty, repair in the night, when there is an -indiscriminate commerce of the votaries, as chance, fortune, and -events direct. Those revels certainly have great affinity to some of -the ancient mystic rites of Greece and Rome. - -_Government and Laws._ The government of New Mexico may be termed -military, in the pure sense of the word; for although they have their -alcaldes, or inferior officers, their judgments are subject to a -reversion by the military commandants of districts. The whole male -population are subject to military duty, without pay or emolument, and -are obliged to find their own horses, arms, and provision. The only -thing furnished by the government is ammunition. It is extraordinary -with what subordination they act when they are turned out to do -military duty. A strong proof of this was exhibited in the expedition -of Malgares to the Pawnees. His command consisted of 100 dragoons of -the regular service and 500 drafts from the province. He had continued -down the Red river until their provision began to be short; they then -demanded of the lieutenant where he was bound and the intention of the -expedition. To this he haughtily replied, "Wherever my horse leads -me." A few mornings after he was presented with a petition, signed by -200 of the militia, to return home. He halted immediately, caused his -dragoons to erect a gallows, and then beat to arms. The troops fell -in; he separated the petitioners from the others, then took the man -who had presented the petition, tied him up and gave him 50 lashes, -and threatened to put to death, on the gallows erected, any man who -should dare to grumble. This effectually silenced them, and quelled -the rising spirit of sedition; but it was remarked that it was the -first instance of a Spaniard receiving corporal punishment ever known -in the province. - -_Morals, Manners, etc._ There is nothing peculiarly characteristic in -this province that will not be embraced in my general observations on -New Spain, except that, being on the frontier and cut off, as it were, -from the more inhabited parts of the kingdom, together with their -continual wars with some of the savage nations who surround them, -renders the people the bravest and most hardy subjects in New Spain; -being generally armed, they know the use of arms. Their want of gold -and silver renders them laborious, in order that the productions of -their labor may be the means of establishing the equilibrium between -them and the other provinces where those metals abound. Their isolated -and remote situation also causes them to exhibit, in a superior -degree, the heaven-like qualities of hospitality and kindness, in -which they appear to endeavor to fulfill the injunction of the -scripture which enjoins us to feed the hungry, clothe the naked, and -give comfort to the oppressed in spirit; and I shall always take -pleasure in expressing my gratitude for their noble reception of -myself and the men under my command. - -_Military Force._ There is but one troop of dragoons in all New Mexico -of the regular force, which is stationed at Santa Fe, and is 100 -strong. Of this troop the governor is always the captain, entitling -himself captain of the royal troop of Santa Fe dragoons; but they are -commanded by a first lieutenant, who is captain by brevet. The men -capable of bearing arms in this province may be estimated at 5,000, of -which probably 1,000 are completely armed, 1,000 badly, and the rest -not at all. - -_Religion._ The catholic religion is practiced in this province after -the same manner as in the other provinces, and will hereafter be taken -notice of generally. - -_History._ In the year 1594 two friars came out from Old Mexico to New -Mexico, and were well received by the savages. They returned, and the -ensuing year Juan de Ouate,[IV'-30] a monk, went out, explored the -country, and returned. After this 100 troops and 500 men, women, and -children came out and settled on the Rio del Norte, at some no very -great distance from where Santa Fe now stands. They entered into an -arrangement with the Indians on the subject of their establishment; -but a few years after [in 1680] the Indians rose _en masse_, fell on -the Spaniards by surprise, killed most of the soldiers, and obliged -them to retreat to the Passo del Norte; whence it acquired its name. -Here they awaited a re-enforcement from Biscay, which they received, -of 70 men and two field-pieces, with which they recommenced their -march and finally arrived at Santa Fe, then the capital Indian -village, to which they immediately laid siege. The Indians maintained -themselves 22 days, when they surrendered and entered into a second -negotiation; since which time the Spaniards have been engaged in -continual warfare with the various savage tribes which surround them -on all sides. These have been near ruining the Spaniards several -times, and obliged them to apply for re-enforcements from Biscay and -Senora. A few years since the Tetaus carried on a warm and vigorous -war against them, but are now at peace and considered as their firmest -allies. - -In the history of New Mexico it may not be improper to record the name -of James Pursley, the first American who ever penetrated the immense -wilds of Louisiana, and showed the Spaniards of New Mexico that -neither the savages who surround the deserts which divide them from -the habitable world, nor the jealous tyranny of their rulers, was -sufficient to prevent the enterprising spirit of the Americans from -penetrating the arcanum of their rich establishment in the new world. -Pursley was from near Baird's town, Kentucky, which he left in 1799. -In 1802, with two companions, he left St. Louis and traveled west, on -the head of the Osage river, where they made a hunt; thence they -struck for the White river of the Arkansaw, and intended to descend it -to Orleans; but, while making preparations, the Kans stole their -horses. They secured their peltries, and pursued the Kans into the -village. The horses were there, but the Indians refused to give them -up. Pursley saw his horse, with an Indian on him, going to the water -at the edge of the town, pursued him, and with his knife ripped open -the horse's bowels. The Indian returned to the village, got his gun, -and came and snapped it at Pursley, who pursued him into the village -with his knife. The Indian took refuge in a lodge surrounded by women -and children. This struck the chiefs with astonishment and admiration -of the "mad Americans," as they termed them, and they returned the -other horses to the hunters. This anecdote was related by traders who -had been in the village at the time. - -Pursley and his companions then returned to where they had buried -their peltry, and determined to pursue the route by land to St. Louis; -but some persons stole their horses a second time, when they were at -no great distance from the Osage river, on which they formed a rough -canoe and descended that stream. Near the entrance of the Missouri -they overset their canoe and lost their whole year's hunt, but saved -their arms and ammunition, which is always the primary object in a -desert. On the Missouri they met Monsieur [Blank] in his barge, bound -to the Mandanes. Pursley embarked with him for the voyage; his two -companions preferred returning to their homes. On their arrival at the -point of destination, his employer dispatched Pursley on a hunting and -trading tour with some bands of the Paducahs and Kyaways, with a small -quantity of merchandise. In the ensuing spring they were driven from -the plains by the Sioux into the mountains which give birth to La -Platte, the Arkansaw, etc., and it was their sign which we saw in such -amazing abundance on the headwaters of La Platte [in South Park, Col., -Dec. 16, 1806]. Their party consisted of near 2,000 souls, with 10,000 -beasts. The Indians, knowing they were approximating to New Mexico, -determined to send Pursley, with his companions and two of their body, -into Santa Fe, to know of the Spaniards if they would receive them -friendly and enter into a trade with them. This being acceded to by -Governor Allencaster, the Indian deputies returned for their bands; -but Pursley thought proper to remain with a civilized people, among -whom a fortuitous event had thrown him--a circumstance of which, he -assured me, he had at one time entirely despaired. - -He arrived at Santa Fe in June, 1805, and has been following his trade -as a carpenter ever since; at this he made a great deal of money, -except when working for the officers, who paid him little or nothing. -He was a man of strong natural sense and dauntless intrepidity. He -entertained me with numerous interesting anecdotes of his adventures -with the Indians, and of the jealousy of the Spanish government. He -was once near being hanged for making a few pounds of gunpowder, which -he innocently did as he had been accustomed to do in Kentucky, but -which is a capital crime in these provinces. He still retained the gun -which he had with him his whole tour, and said confidently that if he -had two hours' start not all the province could take him. He was -forbidden to write, but was assured he should have a passport whenever -he demanded it, and was obliged to give security that he would not -leave the country without permission of the government. He assured me -that he had found gold on the head of La Platte, and had carried some -of the virgin mineral in his shot-pouch for months; but that, being in -doubt whether he should ever again behold the civilized world, and -losing in his mind all the ideal value which mankind have stamped on -that metal, he threw the sample away. He had imprudently mentioned it -to the Spaniards, who had frequently solicited him to go and show a -detachment of cavalry the place; but, conceiving it to be in our -territory, he had refused, and was fearful that the circumstance might -create a great obstacle to his leaving the country. - -2. BISCAY. _Geography._ [The province of Nueva Vizcaya[IV'-31]] lies -between lat. 33 deg. and 24 deg. N., and long. 105 deg. and 111 deg. W. It is bounded -on the north by New Mexico, on the west by Senora and Sinaloa, and on -the east by New Leon and Cogquilla. It is 600 miles in length from -northwest to southeast, and 400 miles in width from east to west, -taking it at its greatest extent. - -_Air and Climate._ The air is dry and the heat very great at that -season of the year which precedes the rainy season, which latter -commences in June and continues until September by light showers. -During the other part of the year there is not the least rain or snow -to moisten the earth. The atmosphere had therefore become so -electrified that when we halted at night, in taking off our blankets -the electric fluid would almost cover them with sparks, and in -Chihuahua we prepared a bottle with gold-leaf as a receiver, and -collected sufficient electric fluid from a bear-skin to give a -considerable shock to a number of persons. This phenomenon was more -conspicuous in the vicinity of Chihuahua than in any other part that -we passed over.[IV'-32] - -_Mines and Minerals._ This province abounds in silver and gold mines, -which yield an immense quantity of those metals, but not so great a -revenue to the king as those which are nearer the mint, and -consequently present a greater facility to coinage. I am not -acquainted with the proportion of the metals which the mineral yields -in any instance, except in one of the silver mines at Chihuahua, which -belonged to a friend of mine, who informed me that his mine yielded -him $13.50 per cwt. I one day, with Robinson, went through many of -these furnaces and noticed the manner which they pursued in analyzing -the mineral and extracting the metals; but, as I had previously asked -several Spanish officers to accompany me, who had always declined or -deferred it to a future period, I conceived it probable it was too -delicate a subject to make a minute inquiry into. I, however, so far -observed the process as to learn that the mineral was brought from the -mines in bags, on mules, to the furnace; it was then ground or pounded -into small lumps, not more than the size of a nut, and precipitated -into water, in a sieve which permitted the smaller particles to escape -into a tub, through several progressive operations. From the small -particles which remained at the bottom of the tubs, after it had been -purified of the earthy qualities, there was a proportion of metal -extracted by a nicer process; but the larger parts were put into a -furnace similar to our iron furnaces, and when the mass was in a state -of fusion, it was let out into a bed of sand prepared for it, which -formed it into bars about the size of our common pig iron, averaged in -value at about $2,500. The gold was cast into a mold similar to a bowl -and stamped with its value, as was each bar of silver, by the king's -assayer of metals. They were worth from $8,000 to $10,000. These -masses of silver and gold are received into the king's treasury in -payment, and in fact have a currency through the kingdom; but there -are vast speculations made on the coinage, as people who have not -large capital prefer selling their bullion in the internal provinces, -at a considerable discount, to being obliged to transport it to -Mexico, in order to have it converted into specie. The present -C[ommandant?], I was informed, was engaged in this traffic, on which, -from the province of Senora, he sometimes made 25 per cent. Numbers of -the proprietors who have no immediate use for their bullion put it -into their cellars, where it remains piled up for their posterity, of -no service to themselves or the community. - -There are at Chihuahua and in its vicinity 15 mines, 13 silver, one -gold, and one copper, the furnaces of all of which are situated round -the town and suburbs, and present, except on Sundays, volumes of smoke -arising to the eye in every direction, which can be seen from a -distance long before the spires of the city strike the view. It is -incredible the quantity of cinders which surround the city in piles 10 -or 15 feet high; next the creek they have formed a bank of it to check -the encroachments of the stream, and it presents an effectual barrier. -I am told that an European employed some hands and wrought at the -cinders, which yielded $1.25 for each per day; but that this not -answering his expectations, he ceased his proceedings. - -At Mausseme [Mapimi] there are one gold and seven silver mines. At -Durango there are many rich mines, but the number to me is unknown. -There are also gold mines in the Sierra Madre, near Alomas [Alamos], -and many others of which I have no knowledge. There is in the -province, about 100 miles south of Chihuahua, a mountain or hill of -loadstone. Walker, who had been on the ground and surveyed it, -informed me it appeared to be in solid strata, as regular as those of -limestone, or any other of the species. He had brought home a square -piece of near a foot and a half, was preparing some to be sent to -Spain, and likewise forming magnets to accompany it, in order that -their comparative strength might be ascertained with magnets formed -in Europe. - -_Rivers._[IV'-33] Rio Conchos is the largest in the province. It takes -its source in the Sierra Madre, near Batopilis, in lat. 28 deg. N., and -discharges itself into the Rio del Norte [at the Presidio del Norte] -in lat. 31 deg., after a course of about 300 miles. It is the largest -western branch of the Rio del Norte, and receives in its course the -Rio Florido from the east and San Paubla [now San Pedro] from the -west. Where we struck the Conchos, it appeared to be nearly as large -as the Rio del Norte at the Passo. - -The Rio San Paubla is the largest western branch of the Conchos; it -heads in lat. 28 deg. 50' N., and empties into the latter at Bakinoa[?]. -Its whole course is about 150 miles; in summer it is nearly dry, and -in the rainy seasons impassable. - -The Rio Florido takes its rise in lat. 26 deg. 30' N., and after a course -of about 150 miles discharges into the Conchos. Guaxequillo is -situated on its east bank, about its center. - -The Rio Nassas [Nasas] is in part the line between Biscay and -Cogquilla; it runs north and sinks in the lake du Cayman [Laguna del -Muerto]; it is nearly dry in the dry seasons, but at some seasons it -is impassable. - -_Lakes._ Lac du Cayman and lac du Parras are two small lakes situated -at the foot of the mountains [in the Bolson de Mapimi], and are full -of fish. - -_Animals, Insects, etc._ There are some few bears, deer, and wild -horses, but they are not in abundance. The scorpions of Durango are -one of the most remarkable instances of the physical effects of -climate or air that I ever saw recorded. They come out of the walls -and crevices in May, and continue about a fortnight in such numbers -that the inhabitants never walk in their houses after dark without a -light, and always shift or examine the bed-clothes and beat the -curtains previous to going to bed; after which the curtains are -secured under the bed, similar to the precautions we take with our -mosquito curtains. The bite of those scorpions has been known to prove -mortal in two hours. The most extraordinary circumstance is that by -taking them 10 leagues from Durango they become perfectly harmless and -lose all their venomous qualities. Query: Does it arise from a change -of air, sustenance, or what other cause?[IV'-34] - -_Population and Chief Towns._ The population of Biscay may be -estimated at 200,000: of these three-twentieths may be Spaniards from -Europe, five-twentieths Creoles, five-twentieths Metifs and Quatroons, -and seven-twentieths Indians. Durango [or Guadiana] was founded in -1550. It is the principal city, the seat of government for the -province of Biscay and of the bishopric of Durango. Its population may -be estimated at 40,000 souls. It is situated in lat. 25 deg. N. and long. -107 deg. W. - -Pallalein, situated somewhere at the foot of the Sierra Madria -[Madre], is supposed to contain 25,000 souls. - -Chihuahua,[IV'-35] the place of residence of the commandant-general of -the internal provinces, was founded in 1691; it is situated in lat. -29 deg. N., long. 107 deg. 30' W. Its population may be estimated at 7,000. It -is an oblong square, on the east side of a small stream which -discharges into the river Conchos. On its south extremity is a small -but elegant church. In the public square stands the principal church, -royal treasury, town-house, and the richest shops. At the western -extremity is another church for the military, a superb hospital -belonging formerly to the Jesuits' possessions, the church of the -monks of St. Francis, St. Domingo, the military academy, and quartel -del tropa. On the northwest were two or three missions, very -handsomely situated on a small stream which comes in from the west. -About one mile to the south of the town is a large aqueduct which -conveys the water round it, to the east, into the main stream below -the town, in the center of which is raised a reservoir for the water, -whence it is to be conducted by pipes to the different parts of the -city, and in the public square is to be a fountain and _jet d'eau_, -which will be both ornamental and useful. The principal church at -Chihuahua was the most superb building we saw in New Spain. Its whole -front was covered with statues of the apostles and the different -saints, set in niches of the wall, and the windows, doors, etc., were -ornamented with sculpture. I never was within the doors, but was -informed by Robinson that the decorations were immensely rich. Some -men, whom we supposed entitled to credit, informed us that the church -was built by a tax of 121/2 cents laid on each ingot of gold or silver -taken out of the mines in the vicinity in [blank] years. Its cost, -with decorations, was $1,500,000, and when it was finished there -remained $300,000 of the fund unappropriated. At the south side of -Chihuahua is the public walk, formed by three rows of trees whose -branches nearly entwine over the heads of the passengers below. At -different distances there are seats for persons to repose on. At each -end of the walks there were circular seats, on which, in the evening, -the company collected and amused themselves with the guitar, and songs -in Spanish, Italian, and French, adapted to the voluptuous manners of -the country. In this city, as well as all others of any consideration, -there are patrols of soldiers during the night, who stop every person -at nine o'clock and examine them. My countersign was "Americans." - -_Trade, Commerce, and Manufactures._ Biscay trades with North Mexico, -Senora, and the viceroyalty, from the latter of which places they -bring on mules all their dry goods, European furniture, books, -ammunition, etc. They furnish a great quantity of horses, mules, -sheep, beeves, and goats, to the parts of the kingdom which are more -populous and have less spare ground for pasturage, etc. Some persons -make large fortunes by being carriers from Mexico to Chihuahua, the -freight being $8 per cwt., and they generally putting 300 pounds on -each mule. The merchants make their remittances twice a year in -bullion. Goods sell at Chihuahua at about 200 per cent, on the prices -of our Atlantic seaport towns. Their horses average at $6, but some -have sold as high as $100; their trained mules at $20, but -extraordinary matches for carriages have sold at $400 per pair. Rice -sells at $4 per cwt. They manufacture some few arms, blankets, stamped -leather, embroidery, coarse cotton and woolen cloths, and a species of -rough carpeting. Their blankets average $2, but some sell as high as -$25. - -_Agriculture._ They cultivate wheat, corn, rice, oats, cotton, flax, -indigo, and vines. What I have said relative to the cultivation of -those articles in New Mexico will equally apply to this province; but -it may be proper to observe here that one of Nolan's men constructed -the first cotton-gin they ever had in the province, and that Walker -had caused a few churns to be made for some private families, and -taught them the use of them. - -_Timber, Plains, and Soil._ To the north of Chihuahua, about 30 miles -to the right of the main road, there is some pine timber; at a spring -on this side of Carracal [Carrizal] we saw one walnut tree, and on all -the small streams there are shrubby cotton trees. With these few -exceptions the whole province is a naked, barren plain, which presents -to the eye an arid, unproductive soil, more especially in the -neighborhood of mines; even the herbage appears to be poisoned by the -mineral qualities of the soil. - -_Antiquities._ There are none in the province which came within my -notice but the Jesuits' college and church at Chihuahua, which were -about a century old, and used as hospitals. In these there was -nothing peculiar, except a certain solidity and strength, in which -they appeared to surpass the other public buildings of the city. - -_Aborigines._ There are no uncivilized savages in this province except -the Appaches, of whom I have spoken largely. The Christian Indians are -so incorporated amongst the lower grades of Metifs that it is scarcely -possible to draw the line of distinction, except at the ranchos of -noblemen or large landholders, where they are in a state of vassalage -[peonage]. This class of people laid a conspiracy, which was so well -concerted as to baffle the inquiries of the Spaniards for a length of -time, and to occasion them the loss of several hundred inhabitants. -The Indians used to go out from their villages in small parties; in a -short time a part would return with the report that they had been -attacked by the Indians; the Spaniards would immediately send out a -detachment in pursuit, when they were led into an ambuscade and every -soul cut off. They pursued this course so long that the whole province -became alarmed at the rapid manner in which their enemies multiplied; -but some circumstances leading to suspicion, they made use of the -superstition of those people for their ruin. Some officers disguised -themselves like friars and went round amongst the Indians, pretending -to be possessed of the spirit of prophecy. They preached up to the -Indians that the day was approaching when a general delivery from -Spanish tyranny was about to take place, and invited the Indians to -join in concerting with them the work of God. The poor creatures came -forward, and in their confessions stated the great hand that had -already been put to the work. After these pretended friars had -ascertained the nature and extent of the conspiracy, and had a body of -troops prepared, they commenced the execution and put to death about -400 of the unsuspecting Indians. This struck terror and dismay through -the Indian villages, and they dared not rise to declare their freedom -and independence. - -_Government and Laws._ In this province there is some shadow of civil -law; but it is merely a shadow, as the following anecdote may -illustrate: An officer, on arriving at a village, demanded quarters -for himself and troops. The supreme civil officer sent him word that -he must show his passport. The military officer immediately sent a -file of men, who brought the judge a prisoner before him, when he -severely reprimanded the judge for his insolence and obliged him to -obey his orders instantly. This was done by a subaltern, in a city of -20,000 inhabitants. The only laws which can be said to be in force are -the military and ecclesiastic, between which there is a perfect -understanding. - -The governor is a brigadier-general, resides at Durango, and receives -$5,000 in addition to his pay in the line. It is proper to observe -that there are ordinances to bear on each subject of civil discussion; -but the administration of them is so corrupt that the influence of -family and fortune generally procures the determination that they have -right on their side. - -In each town is a public magazine for provisions, to which every -farmer brings whatever grain and produce he may have for sale, and -where he is sure to find a market; and should there be a scarcity the -ensuing year, it is retailed out to the inhabitants at a reasonable -rate. To this place all the citizens of the town repair to purchase. - -_Morals, Manners, etc._ There is nothing peculiar in the manners or -morals of the people of this province, but a much greater degree of -luxury among the rich, misery among the poor, and a corruption of -morals more general than in New Mexico. As to military spirit, they -have none. At a muster of a regiment of militia at Chihuahua one of my -men attended, and informed me that there were about 25 who had -fire-arms and lances, 50 with bows and arrows and lances, and the -balance with lances or bows and arrows only. - -_Military Force._ The regular military force of Biscay consists of -1,100 dragoons, distributed as follows: On the frontiers of the -deserts of New Mexico and Senora, at the forts of Elisiaira -[Elizario], Carracal [Carrizal], San Buenaventura, Presidio del Norte, -Janos, Tulenos, and San Juan Baptist [Bautista]. Farther south are -Chihuahua, Jeronime [Jeronimo or Hieronimo], Cayone, San Paubla -[Pablo], Guaxequillo [Guajuquilla], and Conchos, with several other -places which are appendages of those positions. The complement of each -of those posts is 150 men, but may be averaged at 1,100 in all, say -100 at each post. The militia are not worthy of particular notice. - -_Religion._ Biscay is in the diocese of Durango, the bishop's salary -being estimated at $100,000 per annum. The catholic religion is here -in its full force, but the inferior clergy are very much dissatisfied. -The people's superstition is so great that they run after the holy -father in the streets, endeavoring to kiss the hem of his garment; and -should the bishop be passing the street, the rich and poor all kneel. - -_History._ I shall not presume to say anything on this subject, except -that I believe this province has been populated about 270 years. - -3. SENORA. _Geography._ The province of Senora lies between lat. 33 deg. -and 27 deg. N., and long. 110 deg. and 117 deg. W. Its greatest length from north -to south is about 420 miles, and its width from east to west 380 -miles. It is bounded north by New Mexico, west by California, south by -Sinaloa and the gulf, east by Biscay and New Mexico.[IV'-36] - -_Air and Climate._ Dry, pure, and healthy generally, but near the gulf -the ground is marshy, and it is, in some of the districts, unhealthy. - -_Mines, Minerals, and Fossils._ On this subject I can only speak in -general. Senora abounds in rich gold and silver mines, but more -especially the former, inasmuch as gold does not preserve its usual -exchange with silver in this province. General Salcedo told me that in -this province the largest piece of pure gold had been found ever yet -discovered in New Spain, and that it had been sent to the king to be -put in his cabinet of curiosities. - -_Rivers._[IV'-37] Rio de l'Ascencion is a short river which enters the -Gulf of California about 31 deg. N. lat. Rio Yaqui heads on the borders of -Biscay and Senora, and discharges into the Gulf of California in -Guyamas [Guaymas], lat. 23 deg. N. - -_Timber, Plains, and Soil._ This province is, like Biscay, destitute -of timber, but has some rich soil near the gulf. - -_Animals._ There are deer, cabrie, and bear; there are also remarkably -large lizards [_Ctenosaura teres_ of Harlan], which are said to weigh -ten pounds; these are perfectly harmless, tamed by the inhabitants, -and trained to catch mice. - -_Population and Chief Towns._ The population of Senora may be -estimated at 200,000 souls, of which three-twentieths probably are -Spaniards, four-twentieths Creoles, six-twentieths Metifs, and -seven-twentieths Indians. - -Arispea [Arizpe[IV'-38]], the capital of Senora, and until 20 years -past the seat of government of the internal provinces, is situated in -lat. 31 deg. N. and long. 111 deg. W., near the head of the river Yaqui. It is -celebrated throughout the kingdom for the urbanity and hospitality of -its inhabitants, and the vast quantity of gold table utensils made use -of in their houses. Its population is 3,400 souls. Sonora and Terenate -are the next cities in magnitude in the province, the latter to the -north and the former to the south of the capital. - -_Trade and Commerce._ Senora trades with New Mexico and Biscay for the -productions of those different provinces, and with Old Mexico both by -land and sea, through the gulf of California. It is celebrated for its -cheese, horses, and sheep. - -_Agriculture._ They cultivate the same as in Biscay. - -_Aborigines._ There are a number of savage nations bordering on -Senora, which obliges the king to keep up a number of military posts -on the north and west frontiers; but the names of the tribes, or any -of their distinguishing characters, I am unacquainted with. However, -it may not be improper to observe that they are armed with bows, -arrows, shields, and lances, like their savage neighbors. The -civilized Indians are in the same situations as in the other -provinces. - -_Government and Laws._ Similar to Biscay, the governor being a -brigadier-general and receives $7,000 in addition to his pay in the -line. - -_Morals and Manners._ In every respect similar to Biscay, except that -they are more celebrated for hospitality. - -_Military Force._ The regular military force of this province is 900 -dragoons and 200 infantry, stationed as follows: Tubson, San Cruz, -Tubac, and Altac on the north, with 100 dragoons each for a garrison; -Fiuntenas, Bacuachi, Bavista, and Horcasites in the center, with 300 -dragoons and 200 infantry; Buenavista on the south, with 100 dragoons -as a garrison.[IV'-39] The infantry mentioned above are of a nation of -Indians called the Opejas, and are said to be the best soldiers in New -Spain. I saw a detachment of them at Chihuahua who appeared to be -fine, stout, athletic men, and were the most subordinate and faithful -troops I ever knew, acting like a band of brothers and having the -greatest attachment for their officers. - -_Religion._ Catholic, in the diocese of the bishop of Durango. - -_History._ I am unacquainted with it, except that the seat of government -of the internal provinces was formerly at Arispea, at which time the -government of California was also under the commandant-generalcy of -the internal provinces; but the removal of the seat of government to -Chihuahua and the disjunct situation of California induced his Majesty -to annex it to the government of the viceroyalty. The increasing -magnitude of the relations of New Spain with the United States also -gave an importance to the eastern interests which induced the -continuance of the seat of government at Chihuahua. - -4. SINALOA. _Geography._ The province of Sinaloa lies between lat. -23 deg. and 28 deg. N., and long. 108 deg. and 111 deg. W. It is bounded north by -Senora and Biscay, east by the latter, south by the administration of -Guadalaxara, and west by the gulf of California; in its greatest -length it is 300 miles north and south, and in width from east to west -150 miles.[IV'-40] - -_Air and Climate._ On the sea-coast humid, but back [of the coast] dry -and pure. - -_Mines, Minerals, and Fossils._ There are both gold and silver mines; -but with their relative value or productions I am unacquainted. - -_Rivers._[IV'-41] Rio [del] Fuerte takes its source in lat. 27 deg. N. and -long. 110 deg. W., and disembogues into the gulf of California. It crosses -the whole province, and is nearly 150 miles long. Rio Culican -[Culiacan] is not more than 50 miles in length, and enters the gulf of -California in lat. 25 deg. N. - -_Timber, Plains, and Soil._ No timber; soil similar to that of Senora. - -_Animals._ Domestic only. - -_Population and Chief Towns._ Its population may be estimated at -60,000, not more than three-twentieths of whom are Spaniards; the -remainder Creoles, Metifs, and Indians. - -Sinaloa is the capital, but its population, extent, etc., to me is -unknown. - -_Trade and Commerce._ Unacquainted with. - -_Agriculture._ The same as Senora. - -_Aborigines._ None who are not civilized. - -_Government and Laws._ Unacquainted with. - -_Military Force._ One hundred dragoons for expresses, and a guard for -the governor. - -_Religion._ Catholic, in the diocese of the bishop of Durango. - -_History._ To me unknown. - -5. COGQUILLA. _Geography._ The province of Cogquilla lies between lat. -31 deg. and 33 deg. 30' N., and long. 101 deg. and 105 deg. W. Its greatest length -north and south may be 500 miles, and its greatest width east and west -200 miles. It is bounded north by New Mexico and Texas, east by the -latter, San Ander, and New Leon, south by the administration of -Zacataca, and west by Biscay.[IV'-42] - -_Air and Climate._ Pure and healthy, except about the middle of May, -when the heat is intense, and sometimes a scorching wind is felt, like -the flame issuing from an oven or furnace, which frequently skins the -face and affects the eyes. This phenomenon is felt more sensibly about -the setting of the sun than at any other period of the 24 hours. - -_Mines, Minerals, and Fossils._ I know of no mines in this province, -except at Montelovez and San Rosa, with the value of which I am -unacquainted; but those of San Rosa are reputed to be as rich as any -silver mines in the kingdom. Montelovez has none very considerable. - -_Rivers._ This province has no river of magnitude or consequence but -the Rio Grande, which crosses its northern part in a S. E. -direction.[IV'-43] - -_Lakes._ There is a small lake called the Aqua [Agua] Verde, situated -on its western extremities, which gives rise to a small stream that -discharges into the Rio del Norte. - -_Timber, Plains, and Soil._ From the river Nassus [Nasas] to the east -there is the palmetto, which grows to the height of 20 and 25 feet, -with a trunk of 2 feet in diameter. Its leaves are in the shape of a -spear, and cover all the trunk when young, but fall off as the tree -grows old. Its wood is of a spongy nature, and from every information -I could procure, is of the same species as that of the same name in -the Southern States.[IV'-44] One hundred miles to the east of the Rio -Grande oak timber commences, being the first we saw in the provinces; -but it is very small and scrubby, and presents from this to the line -of Texas (the river Mariana [Medina, near San Antonio, Tex.]), a very -perceptible gradation of the increase of timber, both in quantity, -luxuriance, and variety. The country here becomes very similar to the -Indiana territory. - -_Animals._ Deer, wild horses, a few buffalo and wild hogs [peccaries]. - -_Population and Chief Towns._ Montelovez [Monclova[IV'-45]] is the -capital of Cogquilla. It is situated on a small stream of water in -lat. 26 deg. 30' N. and long. 103 deg. 30' W. It is about one mile in length, -on a course N. 70 deg. E. by the main street. It has two public squares, -seven churches, a powder magazine, mills, king's hospital, and quartel -del tropa [soldiers' barracks]. This is the principal military depot -for the provinces of Cogquilla and Texas. Its population may be -estimated at 3,500 souls. This city being the stated residence of his -Excellency Governor Cordero, he has ornamented it with public walks, -columns, and fountains, and made it one of the handsomest cities in -the internal provinces. - -Santa Rosa, about 38 miles N. W. of Montelovez, is represented to be -the most healthy situation in the province, and to have the best water -and fruit. It is on the headwaters of the river Millada [read here -Sabinas]. Its population is represented at 4,000 souls. Paras [Parras] -is situated on a small stream; with its suburbs it is supposed to -contain 7,000 souls, and San Lorenzo, three miles to the north, 500 -souls. This place may be termed the vineyard of Cogquilla, the whole -population pursuing no other occupation than the cultivation of the -grape. Its name denotes the Branches of the Vine. At the Hacienda of -San Lorenzo, where we halted, there were 15 larger stills, larger -cellars, and a greater number of casks than I ever saw in any brewery -of the United States. Its gardens were delightfully interspersed with -figs, vines, apricots, and a variety of fruits which are produced in -the torrid zone; fine summer-houses, where were wine, refreshments, -and couches to repose on, and where the singing of the birds was -delightful. There were, likewise, mills and a fine water-fall. - -The Presidio [Salto] of Rio Grande is situated on that river, and is -remarkable for nothing but three or four handsome missions with which -it is surrounded, a powder magazine, quarters for the troops, and a -few iron field-pieces on miserable truck carriages. Population 2,500 -souls. - -The population of this province may be estimated at 70,000 souls, not -more than 10,000 of whom are Spaniards. - -_Trade, Commerce, and Manufactures._ This province receives all its -merchandise from Mexico by land, and in return gives horses, mules, -wines, gold, and silver. There is an annual fair held at Saltelo -[Saltillo], in New Leon [Coahuila], where an immense quantity of -merchandise is disposed of, and where merchants of very large capitals -reside. - -_Agriculture._ They cultivate the vine principally, with grain and -corn sufficient for their own consumption, and to supply the greatest -part of Texas. - -_Aborigines._ The Appaches cover the northwest frontier. The Lee -Pawnees [Lipans: see note 27, p. 746] are a nation who rove from the -Rio Grande to some distance into the province of Texas. Their former -residence was on the Rio Grande, near the sea-shore. They are at -present divided into three bands, of 300, 350, and 100 men each. They -are at war with the Tetaus and Appaches, and at peace with the -Spaniards. They have fair hair, and are generally handsome, armed with -bows, arrows, and lances. They pursue the wild horses, of which they -take numbers, and sell them to the Spaniards. - -_Government and Laws._ Military and ecclesiastical power is all that -is known or acknowledged in this province; but its administration was -mild under their excellent Governor Cordero. The governor's civil -salary is $4,000 per annum. - -_Morals and Manners._ It was evident to the least discerning eye that, -as we diverged from these parts which produced such vast quantities of -the precious metals, the inhabitants became more industrious, and -there were fewer beggars. Thus the morals of the people of Cogquilla -were less corrupt than those of Biscay or New Leon, their neighbors. - -_Military Force._ There are 400 dragoons maintained in this province, -and stationed at Montelovez, San Rosa, Pres. Rio del Norte, and San -Fernandez. - -_Religion._ Catholic, but mild. It is in the diocese of Durango. - -_History._ Cogquilla had not pushed its population as far as the Rio -Grande in the year 1687, as at that time La Salle[IV'-46] established -himself at the entrance of that river, it being a wilderness; but -Montelovez was established some time before this era. Of its -particular history I have no knowledge. - -6. TEXAS. _Geography._ The province of Texas lies between lat. 27 deg. 30' -and 35 deg. N., and long. 98 deg. and 104 deg. W., bordered north by Louisiana, -east by the territory of Orleans, west by Cogquilla and New Mexico, -and south by New San Ander. Its greatest length from north to south -may be 500 miles, and breadth from east to west 350. - -_Air and Climate._ One of the most delightful temperatures in the -world; but, being a country covered with timber, the new emigrants -are generally sickly, which may justly be attributed to putrescent -vegetation, which brings on intermittent and bilious attacks, and, in -some instances, malignant fevers. The justice of these remarks is -proved by the observations of all the first settlers of our western -frontiers, that places which in the course of 10 or 15 years become -perfectly healthy, were the first two or three years quite the -reverse, and generally cost them the loss of two or three members of -their families. - -_Mines, Minerals, and Fossils._ The only one known and worked is a -mine of lead. - -_Rivers._[IV'-47] The river St. Antonio takes its source about one -league to the northeast of the capital of the province, St. Antonio, -and is navigable for canoes to its source, affording excellent fish, -fine mill seats, and water to every part of the town. It is joined -from the west by the river Mariana, which forms part of the line -between Cogquilla and Texas, and then discharges into the Rio -Guadelupe about 50 miles from the sea. At the town of St. Antonio it -is about 20 yards wide, and in some places 12 feet in depth. The river -Guadelupe takes its source about 150 miles to the northwest of St. -Antonio; where we crossed it, it was a beautiful stream, at least 60 -yards in width. Its waters are transparent and navigable for canoes. -After receiving the waters of the St. Antonio and St. Marco it -discharges into the southwest end of the bay of St. Bernardo -[Matagorda]. At the crossing of this river there is a range for the -horses of St. Antonio and a guarde de caballo, with an elegant site -for a town. . The river St. Marco takes its source about 100 miles -north, 20 west of St. Antonio, and at the crossing of the road is 30 -yards in width, a clear and navigable stream for canoes. By the road -this river is only 14 miles from the Guadelupe, into which it -discharges. - -The Red [or Colorado] river [of Texas] takes its source in the -province of Cogquilla in lat. 33 deg. N. and long. 104 deg. 30' W., but, -bending to the east, enters the province of Texas, and after a winding -course of about 600 miles disembogues into the bay of St. Bernard -[Matagorda], in lat. 29 deg. N. Where the road traverses it, it is at -least 150 yards wide, and has a guard of dragoons stationed on its -banks. Its waters are of a reddish cast, whence it probably derived -its name. This stream is navigable for boats of three or four tons -burden. - -The river Brassos [Brazos] takes its source in the province of -Cogquilla in lat. 34 deg. N. and long. 105 deg. W., enters the province of -Texas, and discharges into the gulf of Mexico in lat. 28 deg. 40', after a -course of 750 miles. It is the largest river in the province, and, -where the road crosses, is 300 yards wide and navigable for large -keels. From the appearances on its banks it must rise and fall 100 -feet. Its waters were red and turbid; its banks well timbered, with a -rich, prolific soil. Here was kept the only boat I recollect to have -seen in the provinces. - -The river Trinity takes its source in lat. 34 deg. N. and long. 99 deg. W., -and discharges into Galueston's [Galveston] bay in lat. 29 deg. 30' N. By -its meanders it is about 300 miles in length. Where the road crosses -it is about 60 yards in width, with high, steep banks covered with -timber, and a rich, luxuriant soil. - -The Nachez [Neches] and Angelina are small rivers, of about 20 yards -in width, which, after forming a junction, discharge into the Trinity. -The river Toyac is a small stream, which discharges into the gulf of -Mexico, at the same bay with the Sabine, in about lat. 29 deg. 50' N. and -long. 97 deg. W.[IV'-48] - -The Sabine river, the present limits between the Spanish dominions and -the territories of the United States in that quarter, takes its source -in about lat. 33 deg. N., and enters the gulf of Mexico in 29 deg. 50'. It may -be 300 miles in length by its meanders, and at the road about 50 yards -in width. Here the Spaniards keep a guard and a ferry-boat. - -_Lakes._ Some small ones near the head of the Guadelupe and some -branches of Red river. - -_Timber, Plains, and Soil._ This province is well timbered for 100 -miles from the coast, but has some small prairies interspersed through -its timbered land; take it generally, it is one of the richest, most -prolific, and best watered countries in North America. - -_Animals._ Buffalo, deer, elk, wild hogs [peccaries], and wild horses, -the latter of which are in such numbers as to afford supplies for all -the savages who border on the province, the Spaniards, and vast droves -for the other provinces. They are also sent into the United States, -notwithstanding the trade is contraband. They go in such large gangs -that it is requisite to keep an advanced guard of horsemen in order to -frighten them away; for should they be suffered to come near the -horses and mules which you drive with you, by their snorting, -neighing, etc., they would alarm them, and frequently the domestic -animals would join them and go off, notwithstanding all the exertions -of the dragoons to prevent them. A gentleman told me he saw 700 beasts -carried off [stampeded] at one time, not one of which was ever -recovered. They also in the night frequently carry off the droves of -travelers' horses, and even come within a few miles of St. Antonio, -and take off the horses in that vicinity. - -The method pursued by the Spanish in taking them is as follows: They -take a few fleet horses and proceed into the country where the wild -horses are numerous. They then build a large strong inclosure, with a -door which enters a smaller inclosure; from the entrance of the large -pen they project wings out into the prairie a great distance, and then -set up bushes, etc., to induce the horses, when pursued, to enter into -these wings. After these preparations are made they keep a lookout for -a small drove, for, if they unfortunately should start too large a -one, they either burst open the pen or fill it up with dead bodies, -and the others run over them and escape; in which case the party are -obliged to leave the place, as the stench arising from the putrid -carcasses would be insupportable; and, in addition to this, the pen -would not receive others. Should they, however, succeed in driving in -a few, say two or three hundred, they select the handsomest and -youngest, noose them, take them into the small inclosure, and then -turn out the remainder; after which, by starving, preventing them -taking any repose, and continually keeping them in motion, they make -them gentle by degrees, and finally break them to submit to the saddle -and bridle. For this business I presume there is no nation in the -world superior to the Spaniards of Texas. - -_Population and Chief Towns._ St. Antonio, the capital of the -province, lies in lat. 29 deg. 50' N. and long. 101 deg. W., and is situated -on the headwaters of the river of that name; it contains perhaps 2,000 -souls, most of whom reside in miserable mud-wall houses, covered with -thatched grass roofs. The town is laid out on a very grand plan. To -the east of it, on the other side of the river, is the station of the -troops. - -About two, three, and four miles from St. Antonio are three missions, -formerly flourishing and prosperous. Those buildings, for solidity, -accommodation, and even majesty, were surpassed by few that I saw in -New Spain. The resident priest treated us with the greatest -hospitality, and was respected and beloved by all who knew him. He -made a singular observation relative to the aborigines who had -formerly formed the population of those establishments under charge of -the monks. I asked him what had become of the natives. He replied that -it appeared to him that they could not exist under the shadow of the -whites, as the nations who formed those missions had been nurtured, -taken all the care of that it was possible, and put on the same -footing as the Spaniards; yet, notwithstanding, they had dwindled away -until the other two missions had become entirely depopulated, and the -one where he resided had not then more than sufficient to perform his -household labor; from this he had formed an idea that God never -intended them to form one people, but that they should always remain -distinct and separate. - -Nacogdoches is merely a station for troops, and contains nearly 500 -souls. It is situated on a small stream of the river Toyac. - -The population of Texas may be estimated at 7,000. These are -principally Spanish, Creoles, some French, some Americans, and a few -civilized Indians and half-breeds. - -_Trade and Commerce._ This province trades with Mexico by Mont El Rey -and Montelovez for merchandise, and with New Orleans by Nachitoches; -but the latter trade, being contraband, is liable to great danger and -risks. They give in return specie, horses, and mules. - -_Agriculture._ The American emigrants are introducing some little -spirit of agriculture near Nacogdoches and the Trinity; but the -oppressions and suspicions they labor under prevent their proceeding -with that spirit which is necessary to give success to the -establishment of a new country. - -_Aborigines._ The Tancards [note 12, p. 705] are a nation of -Indians who rove on the banks of Red river, and are 600 men strong. -They follow the buffalo and wild horses, and carry on a trade with the -Spaniards. They are armed with the bow, arrow, and lance. They are -erratic and confined to no particular district; are a tall, handsome -people; in conversation they have a peculiar cluckling, express more -by signs than any savages I ever visited, and in fact language appears -to have made less progress. They complained much of their situation -and the treatment of the Spaniards; are extremely poor, and, except -the Appaches, were the most independent Indians we encountered in the -Spanish territories. They possess large droves of horses. - -There are a number of other nations now nearly extinct, some of which -are mentioned by Dr. Sibley in a report he made to the government of -the United States on these subjects. A few, and very few indeed, of -those nations have been converted by the missions, and these are not -in that state of vassalage in which the Indians further to the south -are held. [Notes 17, 21, 22, pp. 709, 713, 714.] - -_Government and Laws._ Perfectly military, except as to the -ecclesiastical jurisdiction. - -_Morals and Manners._ They being on the frontier, where buffalo and -wild horses abound, and not engaged in any war with savages who are -powerful, have adopted a mode of living by following those animals, -which has been productive of a more wandering disposition round the -capital (St. Antonio) than in any other of the provinces. Cordero, -restricting by edicts the buffalo hunts to certain seasons, and -obliging every man of family to cultivate so many acres of land, has -in some degree checked the spirit of hunting or wandering life which -had been hitherto so very prevalent, and has endeavored to introduce, -by his example and precepts, a general urbanity and suavity of -manners which rendered St. Antonio one of the most agreeable places -that we met with in the provinces. - -_Military Force._ There were in Texas at the time I came through 988 -[888?] men, from the actual returns of the troops which I have seen, -500 of whom were from St. Ander and New Leon, under command of -governor Herrara. The disposition of those troops is as follows: 388 -at St. Antonio, 400 [300?] at the cantonment of [Blank, 300 marked on -map low down] on the Trinity, 100 at the [crossing of the] Trinity, -and 100 at Nacogdoches. The militia, a rabble made somewhat -respectable by a few American riflemen who are incorporated amongst -them, are about 300 men, including bow and arrow men. - -_Religion._ Catholic, but much relaxed. - -_History._ To me unknown, except what can be extracted from various -authors on that subject. - - -GENERAL REMARKS ON NEW SPAIN. - -To become acquainted with all the civil and political institutes of a -country requires a perfect knowledge of the language, a free ingress -to the archives, and a residence of some years; even then we can -scarcely distinguish between the statute laws and common law, derived -from custom, morals, and habits. Under those circumstances, it cannot -be expected that I shall be able to say much on the subject, as I -possessed none of the above advantages. I will, however, offer a few -observations. To a stranger it is impossible to define the limits of -the military and ecclesiastical jurisdictions; in every affair which -relates to the citizens, and in fact with the soldiery, the force of -superstition is such that I am doubtful whether they would generally -obey one of their officers in a direct violation of the injunction of -their religious professions. The audiences of Mexico and Guadalaxara -were formed, no doubt, as a check on the immense power of the viceroy. -The number of members composing each is to me unknown, but they are -formed of the viceroy as president, with two votes, generals, and -bishops. To their jurisdictions the appeals from the judgment of the -intendants and all subordinate officers may be made in civil cases; -but the military and ecclesiastical decisions are distinct. -Notwithstanding all this semblance of justice, should an individual -dare to make the appeal and not succeed in establishing the justice of -his claim to redress, he is certainly ruined. Where justice is so -little attended to, when opposed to power and wealth, as in the -Spanish provinces, the appeal is a desperate remedy. This tribunal or -legislative body enacts all the laws for the general regulations of -their divisions of the kingdom. - -The captain-generalcy of the internal provinces appeared to me to be -much more despotic, for the laws or regulations were issued in the -form of an order merely, without any kind of a preamble whatsoever, -except sometimes he would say, "By order of the king"; and such was -the style of governors of provinces. - -_Morals, Manners, etc._ For hospitality, generosity, and sobriety the -people of New Spain exceed any nation perhaps on the globe; but in -national energy, patriotism, enterprise of character, or independence -of soul, they are perhaps the most deficient. Yet there are men who -have displayed bravery to a surprising degree, and the Europeans who -are there cherish with delight the idea of their gallant ancestry. - -Their women have black eyes and hair, fine teeth, and are generally -brunettes. I met but one exception to this rule, at Chihuahua--a fair -lady, who, by way of distinction, was called "the girl with light -hair." They are all inclining a little to enbonpoint; but none or few -are elegant figures. Their dress generally is short jackets and -petticoats and high-heeled shoes, without any head-dress. Over the -whole dress they have a silk wrapper,[IV'-49] which they always wear -and, when in the presence of men, affect to bring over their faces, -but from under which you frequently see peeping a large sparkling -black eye. As we approached the Atlantic and our frontiers, we saw -several ladies who wore the gowns of our countrywomen, which they -conceived to be much more elegant than their ancient costume. The -lower class of the men are generally dressed in broad-brimmed hats, -short coats, large waistcoats, and small clothes always open at the -knees (owing, as I suppose, to the greater freedom it gives to the -limbs on horseback), a kind of leather boot or wrapper bound round the -leg somewhat in the manner of our frontier-men's leggings, and -gartered on. The boot is of a soft, pliable leather, but not colored. -In the eastern provinces the dragoons wear, over this wrapper or boot, -a sort of jack-boot made of sole-leather, to which are fastened, by a -rivet, the spurs, the gaffs of which are sometimes near an inch in -length; but the spurs of the gentlemen and officers, although clumsy -to our ideas, are frequently ornamented with raised silver-work on the -shoulders, and the straps embroidered with silver and gold thread. -They are always ready to mount their horses, on which the inhabitants -of the internal provinces spend nearly half the day. This description -will apply generally to the dress of all the men of the provinces for -the lower class; but in their cities, among the more fashionable, they -dress after the European or United States modes, with not more -variation than we see in our cities from one six months to another. - -Both men and women have remarkably fine hair, and pride themselves in -the display of it. Their amusements are music, singing, dancing, and -gambling. The latter is strictly prohibited, but the prohibition is -not much attended to. The dance of ---- is danced by one man and two -women, who beat time to the music, which is soft and voluptuous, but -sometimes changing to a lively, gay air. The dancers exhibit the -motions of the soul by gestures of the body, snapping the fingers, and -sometimes meeting in a stretched embrace. The fandango is danced to -various figures and numbers. The minuet is still danced by the -superior class only. The music made use of is the guitar, violin, and -singers, who, in the first-described dance, accompany the music with -their hands and voices, having always some words adapted to the music. - -Their games are cards, billiards, horse-racing, and cock-fighting, the -first and last of which are carried to the most extravagant lengths, -losing and winning immense sums. The present commandant-general is -very severe with his officers in these respects, frequently sending -them to some frontier post in confinement for months, for no other -fault than having lost large sums at play. At every town of -consequence is a public walk, where the ladies and gentlemen meet and -sing songs, which are always on the subject of love or the social -board. The females have fine voices, and sing in French, Italian, and -Spanish, the whole company joining in the chorus. - -In their houses the ladies play the guitar, and generally accompany it -with their voices. They either sit down on the carpet cross-legged, or -loll on a sofa. To sit upright in a chair appeared to put them to -great inconvenience; although the better class would sometimes do it -on our first introduction, they soon took the liberty of following -their old habits. In their eating and drinking they are remarkably -temperate. Early in the morning you receive a dish of chocolate and a -cake; at twelve you dine on several dishes of meat, fowls, and fish, -after which you have a variety of confections, and indeed an elegant -dessert; then drink a few glasses of wine, sing a few songs, and -retire to take the siesta, or afternoon's nap, which is taken by rich -and poor. About two o'clock the windows and doors are all closed, the -streets deserted, and the stillness of midnight reigns throughout. -About four o'clock they rise, wash and dress, and prepare for the -dissipation of the night. About eleven o'clock some refreshments are -offered, but few take any, except a little wine and water and candied -sugar. - -The government has multiplied the difficulties of Europeans -intermarrying with the Creoles or Metifs to such a degree that it is -difficult for such a marriage to take place. An officer wishing to -marry a lady not from Europe is obliged to acquire certificates of the -purity of her descent 200 years back, and transmit it to the court, -when the license will be returned; but should she be the daughter of a -man of the rank of captain or upward this nicety vanishes, as rank -purifies the blood of the descendants. - -The general subjects of conversations among the men are women, money, -and horses, which appear to be the only objects, in their estimation, -worthy of consideration. Uniting the female sex with their money and -their beasts, and having treated them too much after the manner of the -latter, they have eradicated from their breasts every sentiment of -virtue or ambition, either to pursue the acquirements which would make -them amiable companions, instructive mothers, or respectable members -of society; their whole souls, with a few exceptions, being, like -those of Turkish ladies, taken up in music, dress, and the little -blandishments of voluptuous dissipation. Finding that the men only -regard them as objects of gratification to the sensual passions, they -have lost every idea of that feast of reason and flow of soul which -arise from the intercourse of two refined and virtuous minds. - -The beggars of the City of Mexico are estimated at 60,000 souls; what -must be the number through the whole kingdom, and to what reason can -it be owing that, in a country superior to any in the world for -riches in gold and silver, producing all the necessaries of life and -most of its luxuries, there should be such a vast proportion of the -inhabitants in want of bread or clothing? It can only be accounted for -by the tyranny of the government and the luxuries of the rich. The -government strives, by all the restrictions possible to be invented -without absolutely driving the people to desperation, to keep Spanish -America dependent on Europe. - -_Trade, Commerce, Manufactures, and Revenue._ The trade and commerce -of New Spain are carried on with Europe and the United States by the -port of Vera Cruz solely, and with the East Indies and South America -generally by Acapulco; and, even at these ports, under such -restriction as to productions, manufactures, and time, as to render it -of little consequence to the general prosperity of the country. Were -all the numerous bays and harbors of the gulfs of Mexico and -California opened to the trade of the world, and a general license -given to the cultivation of all the productions of which the country -is capable, with freedom of exportation and importation, with proper -duties on foreign goods, the country would immediately become rich and -powerful, and a proper stimulus would be held out to the poor to -labor, when certain of finding a quick and ready sale for the -productions of their plantations or manufactories. The country abounds -in iron ore, yet all the iron and steel, and articles of manufactures, -are obliged to be brought from Europe, the manufacturing or working of -iron being strictly prohibited. This occasions the necessary articles -of husbandry, arms, and tools to be enormously high, and is a great -check to agriculture, improvements in manufactures, and military -skill. The works of the Mexicans, in gold, silver, and painting, show -them naturally to have a genius which, with cultivation and -improvement, might rival the greatest masters of either ancient or -modern times. Their dispositions and habits are peculiarly calculated -for sedentary employments, and I have no doubt, if proper -establishments were made, they would soon rival, if not surpass, the -most extensive woolen, cotton, or silk manufactures of Europe; their -climate being proper to raise the finest cotton in the world, and -their sheep possessing all the fineness of wool for which they are so -celebrated in Spain. Under these circumstances, together with the -immense quantities of the raw materials which they have on hand, wool -sells for a mere trifle; and, in fact, they scarcely take half from -the fleece of the sheep, for the coarse manufactures of the country -and to make beds. - -I cannot presume to state the revenues of the country from official -documents, but the following statements I have had from so respectable -a source, and they are so confirmed by my own observations, that I -think much reliance may be placed on their correctness. The mint coins, -per annum, at least, $50,000,000 in silver and $14,000,000 in gold, -the one-fifth of which (the duty) is equal to $12,800,000.[IV'-50] The -duties on foreign goods and the amount paid by the purchasers of -monopolies may be estimated at $4,000,000; which, with the duty on -gold and silver, makes the annual revenue $16,800,000. The civil list -of the kingdom is $580,000, the military $7,189,200; these together -amount to $7,760,200, which, deducted from the gross revenue of -$16,700,000, leaves a clear revenue for the king from his Mexican -dominions of $9,030,800. The money paid for the support of the clergy -is not included in this estimate, as they receive their revenue -through its own proper channel. The best paid officers under the -government cost the king nothing in a direct line, yet the oppressive -manner in which they pay themselves and impoverish the people would -render it better policy to abolish their impositions and pay them out -of the public treasury by a direct salary. - -_Return of Military Force in New Spain._ - - Key Code: - - C = Cavalry. - A = Artillery. - I = Infantry. - F = Fire-arms. - B.A.L. = Bows, arrows, and lances. - - ==============+=================+================= - | | - | Disciplined | Regular - Provinces | and Regular | Troops of the - and | European Troops.| Country. - Places. +-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+----- - | C | A | I | C | A | I - --------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+----- - Xalapa Ina. | | | | | | - Vera Cruz | | 200| 2000| 2000| | - Vera Cruz and | | | | | | - sea-ports | | 800| 2000| | | - Mexico | 1000| | | | | 1000 - Provinces and | | | | | | - viceroyalty | | | | | | - New Mexico | | | | 100| | - Biscay | | | | 1100| | - Senora | | | | 900| | 200 - Sinaloa | | | | 100| | - Cogquilla | | | | 400| | - Texas | | | | 488| | - +-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+----- - Total | 1000| 1000| 4000| 5088| | 1200 - --------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+----- - - ==============+=================+============ - | Militia with | - | Regular | Probable - Provinces | Field Officers | Armed - and | and under Pay. | Citizens. - Places. +-----+-----+-----+-----+------ - | C | A | I | F |B.A.L. - --------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+------ - Xalapa Ina. | | | | | - Vera Cruz | 3000| | 1000| | - Vera Cruz and | | | | | - sea-ports | 600| | 2000| | - Mexico | 3400| 1000| | | - Provinces and | | | | | - viceroyalty | | | |15000| 80000 - New Mexico | | | | 1000| 4000 - Biscay | | | | 5000| 8000 - Senora | | | | 5000| 3000 - Sinaloa | | | | 3000| 6000 - Cogquilla | | | | 1000| 2000 - Texas | | | | 500| 1000 - +-----+-----+-----+-----+------ - Total | 7000| 1000| 3000|30500|109000 - --------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+------ - - Cavalry. Artillery. Infantry. - - Regular troops, European 1000 1000 4000 - Regular troops, Mexican 5088 .... 1200 - Trained militia 7000 1000 3000 - ----- ---- ---- - Total 13088 2000 8200 - - Cavalry 13088 - Artillery 2000 - Infantry 8200 - ------ - Total 23288 disciplined and effective force. - ------ - 30500 undisciplined militia. - 109000 bow, arrow, and lance men. - ------ - 162788 total force. - -The European troops are some of the choicest regiments from Spain; -consequently, we may put them on the supposition that they are well -disciplined, and officered by men of honor and science. - -The regular troops of the kingdom who are in the viceroyalty, acting -from the stimulant of ambition and envy, are supposed to be equal to -their brethren from Europe. The militia, with the regular officers, -are likewise good troops, but are not held in so high estimation as -the other corps. Those three corps, forming a body of 23,288 men, may -be called the regular force of the kingdom, as the militia of 139,500 -would, in my estimation, be of no more consequence against the regular -troops of any civilized power than the ancient aborigines of the -country were against the army of Cortes. - -The particular observations which follow must be considered as -applying to the troops of the internal provinces, unless it is stated -to the contrary. - -The appearance of the Spanish troops is certainly, at a distance, a la -militaire; their lances are fixed to the side of the saddle under the -left thigh and slant about five feet above the horse. On the right the -carabine is slung in a case to the front of the saddle, or pommel, -crosswise, the breech to the right hand; and on each side of the -saddle, behind the rider, is a pistol; below the breech of the -carabine is slung the shield, which is made of sole leather three -doubled, sewed together with thongs, with a band on the inside to slip -the left arm through; those of the privates are round, and are about -two feet in diameter. The officers and non-commissioned officers have -their shields oval, bending on both sides, in order to permit the -arrow to glance, and they have in general the arms of Spain with Don -Carlos IV. gilt on the outside, with various other devices, which add -much to the elegance of their appearance on horseback, but are only -calculated to be of service against savages who have no fire-arms. The -dragoons of the viceroyalty do not make use of the lance or shield, -but are armed, equipped, and clothed after the modern manner, as are -also the dragoons of the eastern provinces. When they recently -expected to be opposed to the American troops they were deprived of -the lance and shield, and received the straight cutlass in their -stead. - -Their dress is a short blue coat, with red cape and cuffs, without -facings, leather or blue cotton velvet small-clothes and waistcoat, -the small-clothes always open at the knees, the wrapping-boot with the -jack-boot and permanent spur over it, a broad-brimmed, high-crowned -wool hat, with a ribbon round it of various colors, generally received -as a present from some female, which they wear as a badge of the favor -of the fair sex and a mark of their gallantry. - -Their horses are small and slender-limbed, but very active and capable -of enduring great fatigue. The equipments of the horses are, to our -idea, awkward; but I believe them superior to the English, and they -have the advantage over us in the skill of the rider, as well as in -the quality of the beast. Their bridles have a strong curb, which -gives so great a mechanical force to the bridle that I believe it -almost practicable with it to break the jaw of the beast. The saddle -is made after the Persian mode, with a high projecting pommel or, as -anciently termed, bow, and is likewise raised behind. This is merely -the tree; it is then covered by two or three covers of carved leather -and embroidered workmanship, some with gold and silver in a very -superb manner. The stirrups are of wood closed in front, carved -generally into the figure of a lion's head, or that of some other -beast; they are very heavy, and to us present a very clumsy -appearance. The horseman, seated on his horse, has a small bag tied -behind him, his blankets either under him, or lying with his cloak -between his body and the bow, which makes him at his ease. Thus -mounted, it is impossible for the most vicious horse ever to dismount -them. They will catch another horse with a noose and hair rope, when -both are running nearly at full speed, with which they soon choke down -the beast of which they are in pursuit; in short, they are probably -the most expert horsemen in the world. - -At each post is a store, called the king's, where it was the original -intention of the government that the soldiers should be supplied with -provisions, clothing, arms, etc., at a cheap rate; but it being a post -generally given to some young officer to make his fortune, they are -subject to great impositions. When a dragoon joins the service he -receives from the king five horses and two mules, and this number he -is always obliged to keep good from his own pocket; but when he is -discharged, the horses and mules receive the discharge mark and become -his private property. They engage for five or ten years, at the option -of the soldier, but in the bounty there is a very material difference. -It is extremely easy to keep up their corps, as a private dragoon -considers himself upon an equality with most of the citizens and -infinitely superior to the lower class, and not unfrequently you see -men of considerable fortune marrying the daughters of sergeants and -corporals. - -The pay of the troops of New Spain varies with the locality, but may -be averaged, in the internal provinces, as follows: - -Colonel, $4,500; lieutenant-colonel, $4,000; major, $3,000; captain, -$2,400; first lieutenant, $1,500; second lieutenant, $1,000; ensign, -$800; sergeant, $350; corporal, $300; private, $288. With this pay -they find their own clothes, provisions, arms, accouterments, etc., -after the first equipments. - -Corporal punishment is contrary to the Spanish ordinances. They punish -by imprisonment, putting in the stocks, and death. As a remarkable -instance of the discipline and regularity of conduct of those -provincial troops, although marching with them and doing duty as it -were for nearly four months, I never saw a man receive a blow or put -under confinement for one hour. How impossible would it be to regulate -the turbulent dispositions of the Americans with such treatment! In -making the foregoing remark I do not include officers, for I saw more -rigorous treatment exercised toward some of them than was ever -practiced in our army. - -The discipline of their troops is very different from ours. As to -tactics or military maneuvers, they are not held in much estimation; -for, during the whole of the time I was in the country, I never saw a -corps of troops exercising as dragoons, but frequently marching by -platoons, sections, etc., in garrison, where they serve as infantry -with their carabines. In these maneuvers they are very deficient. On a -march a detachment of cavalry generally encamp in a circle. They -relieve their guards at night; as soon as they halt the new guard is -formed on foot with their carabines, and then marched before the -commandant's tent, where the commanding officer of the guard invokes -the holy virgin three times; the commanding officer replies, "It is -well." They then retire and mount their horses, and are told off, some -to act as guard of the horses, as cavalry, others as guard of the -camp, as infantry. The old guards are then paraded and relieved, and -the new sentinels take post. Their sentinels are singing half the -time, and it is no uncommon thing for them to quit their post to come -to the fire, go for water, etc.--in fact, after the officer is in bed, -frequently the whole guard comes in; yet I never knew any man punished -for those breaches of military duty. Their mode of attack is by -squadrons, on the different flanks of their enemies, but without -regularity or concert, shouting, hallooing, and firing their -carabines; after which, if they think themselves equal to the enemy, -they charge with a pistol and then a lance. From my observation on -their discipline I have no hesitation in declaring that I would not be -afraid to march over a plain with 500 infantry and a proportionate -allowance of horse artillery of the United States army, in the -presence of 5,000 of these dragoons. Yet I do not presume to say that -an army with that inferiority of numbers would do to oppose them, for -they would cut off your supplies, and harass your march and camp, -night and day, to such a degree as to oblige you in the end to -surrender to them without ever having come to action. If, however, the -event depended on one single engagement, it would eventuate with glory -to the American arms. The conclusion must not be drawn that I consider -they are more deficient in physical firmness than other nations, for -we see the savages, 500 of whom on a plain fly before 50 bayonets, on -other occasions brave danger and death in its most horrid shapes, with -an undaunted fortitude never surpassed by the most disciplined and -hardy veterans. It arises solely from the want of discipline and -confidence in each other, as is always the case with undisciplined -corps, unless stimulated by the godlike sentiment of love of country, -of which these poor fellows know little. The traveling food of the -dragoons in New Mexico consists of a very excellent species of wheat -biscuit, and shaved meat well dried [charqui], with a vast quantity of -red pepper [chile colorado], of which they make bouilli and then pour -it on their broken biscuit, when the latter becomes soft and excellent -eating. - -Farther south they use large quantities of parched corn-meal and sugar -[pinole], as practiced by our hunters, each dragoon having a small -bag. In short, they live, when on command, on an allowance which our -troops would conceive little better than starving, never, except at -night, attempting to eat anything like a meal, but biting a piece of -biscuit, or drinking some parched meal with sugar and water, during -the day. - -From the physical as well as moral properties of the inhabitants of -New Spain, I do believe they are capable of being made the best troops -in the world, possessing sobriety, enterprise, great physical force, -docility, and a conception equally quick and penetrating. - -The mode of promotion in the internal provinces is singular, but -probably productive of good effects. Should a vacancy of first -lieutenant offer in a company, the captain commanding nominates, with -the senior second lieutenant, who by seniority would fill the vacancy, -two other lieutenants to the general, giving his comments on all -three. The general selects two for a nomination to the court, from -whom is selected the fortunate candidate, whose commission is made out -and forwarded. As the letters of nomination are always kept a secret, -it is impossible for the young officers to say who is to blame if they -are disappointed, and the fortunate one is in a direct way to thank -the king only for the ultimate decision. And thus with superior grades -to the colonel. - -The king of Spain's ordinances for the government of his army are -generally founded on justice and a high sense of honor. I could not -get a set from any of the officers to take to my quarters, -consequently my observations on them were extremely cursory. They -provide that no old soldier shall ever be discharged the service, -unless for infamous crimes. When a man has served with reputation for -15 years and continues, his pay is augmented; 20 years, he receives -another augmentation; 27 years, he receives the brevet rank and pay of -an ensign; and 32, a lieutenant, etc. Those circumstances are a great -stimulant, although not one in a thousand arrives at the third period, -when they are permitted to retire from the service with full pay and -emoluments. All sons of captains, or of grades superior, are entitled -to enter the king's schools as cadets, at the age of 12 years. - -The property of any officer or soldier who is killed on the field of -battle, or dies of his wounds, is not liable to be taken for debt, and -is secured, as well as the king's pension, to the relatives of the -deceased. - -Courts-martial for the trial of commissioned officers must be formed -of general officers; but this clause subjects the officers of the -provinces to a great species of tyranny, for the commanding general -has taken it upon himself to punish for all offenses not capital, and -consequently according to his own judgment and prejudices, from which -there is only an appeal to the king, and difficult it is indeed for -the complaints of a subaltern to reach his majesty through the -numerous crowd of sycophants who surround him, one-half of whom are -probably in league with his oppressor. It likewise deprives an officer -of the most sacred of all rights, that of being tried by his peers; -for, should he be sent to Mexico or Europe for trial, it is possible -he cannot take half the testimony which is necessary to complete his -justification. - -There is another principle defined by the ordinances, which has often -been the cause of disputes in the service of the United States. The -commandant of a post in the Spanish service, if barely a captain, -receives no orders from a general, should one arrive at his post, -unless that general should be superior in authority to the person who -posted him; for, says the ordinance, he is responsible to the king -alone for his post. That principle, according to my ideas, is very -injurious to the country which adopts it. For example, we will say -that a post of great importance, containing immense military stores, -is likely to fall into the hands of the enemy; an officer superior to -the commandant receives the information, repairs to the post, and -orders him immediately to evacuate it. The commandant, feeling himself -only responsible to the authority who placed him in that position, -refuses to obey, and the magazines and place are lost. The principle -is also subversive of the very root of military subordination and -discipline, where an inferior should in all cases obey a superior, who -alone should be responsible for the effect arising from the execution -of his orders. It will readily be believed that, in my thus advocating -implicit obedience to the orders of a superior, that I do not suppose -the highest improbabilities or impossibilities, such as an order to -turn your arms against the constituted authority of your country, or -to be the ensign of his tyranny or the pander of his vices. Those are -cases where a man's reason must alone direct him, and are not--indeed, -cannot be--subject to any human rule whatever. - -_Religion._ It forms a subject with which I am very imperfectly -acquainted; but, having made some inquiries and observations on the -religion of the country, I will freely communicate them, fearful at -the same time that I lay myself open to the severe criticism of -persons who have in any degree applied themselves to the study of -theology or the ritual of the catholic church. - -The kingdom of New Spain is divided into four archbishoprics, viz.: -Mexico, Guadalaxara, Durango, and St. Louis Potosi. Under these again -are the sub-bishoprics--deacons, curates, etc., all of whom are -subject and accountable to their immediate chief for the districts -committed to their charge, and the whole are again subject to the -ordinances of the high court of inquisition held at the capital of -Mexico, whence are fulminated the edicts of their censure against the -heresies and impious doctrines of modern philosophy, both as to -politics and religion. I am credibly informed that the influence of -that tribunal is greater in his Catholic majesty's Mexican dominions -than in any Catholic country in Europe or perhaps in the world. A few -years since they condemned a man to the flames, for asserting and -maintaining some doctrine which they deemed heretical; and a Jew who -was imprudent enough to take the image of Christ on a cross, and put -it under the sill of his door, saying privately he would make the dogs -walk over their God. They likewise examine and condemn to the flames -all books of a modern sentiment, either as to religion or politics, -and excommunicate anyone in whose hands they may be found. I recollect -to have seen a decree of theirs published in the Mexican gazettes, -condemning a number of books, "as heretical and contrary to the sacred -principles of the holy Catholic church, and the peace and durability -of the government of his Catholic majesty." Amongst these were -mentioned Helvetius on Man, J. J. Rousseau's works, Voltaire's, -Mirabeau's, and a number of others of that description; even at so -great a distance as Chihuahua a officer dared not take Pope's Essay on -Man to his quarters, but used to come to mine to read it. - -The salaries of the archbishops are superior to those of any officers -in the kingdom; the bishop of Mexico's being estimated at $150,000 per -annum, when the viceroy's is $80,000, with $50,000 allowed for his -table, falling short of the bishop's $20,000. - -Those incomes are raised entirely from the people, who pay no tax to -the king, but give one-tenth of their yearly income to the clergy, -besides the fees of confessions, bulls, burials, baptisms, marriages, -and a thousand impositions which the corruption of priestcraft has -introduced, and which have been kept up by their superstition and -ignorance. Notwithstanding all this, the inferior clergy, who do all -the slavery of the office, are liberal and well-informed men; I -scarcely saw one who was not in favor of a change of government. They -are generally Creoles by birth, and always kept in subordinate grades, -without the least shadow of a probability of rising to the superior -dignities of the church. This has soured their minds to such a degree -that I am confident in asserting that they will lead the van whenever -the standard of independence is raised in that country. - -_Politics._ It has often been a subject of discussion with -politicians, in what manner a mother country should treat her distant -and powerful colonies, in order to retain them longest in their -subjection; for the history of all nations and all ages has proved -that no community of people separated from another by an immense -ocean, feeling their power, strength, and independence, will remain -long subject to the mother country, purely from the ties of -consanguinity and similarity of habits, manners, and religion. Society -itself having arisen from the mutual wants, fears, and imbecility of -the infancy of human institutions, a large body of that society will -remain no longer subject to another branch, at the immense distance of -1,000 leagues, than until they feel their maturity, and capability of -providing for their own wants and their own defense. Therefore we may -draw a conclusion that no political course of conduct whatever will -eventually prevent the separation; but there is a line of conduct -which certainly must retard it in a great measure; and prudence would -dictate to the mother country the policy of giving way without a -struggle to an event beyond her power to prevent. - -The two great examples of English and Spanish America are before our -eyes. England gave us liberty to pursue the dictates of our own -judgment with respect to trade, education, and manners, by which means -we increased in power, learning, and wealth, with a rapidity unknown -in the annals of the world, and at the first attempt to infringe the -rights which we had hitherto enjoyed, asserted that claim which -nature and the locality of our situation gave us a right to demand and -a power to defend. Had Great Britain yielded to the storm with grace -and dignity, she would have secured our gratitude, ancient prejudices, -and affections in her favor; on the contrary, by a long and arduous -conflict, the murder of thousands of our citizens, the destruction of -our country, the profanation of our altars, and the violation of every -right, divine and human, she implanted in the breast of the Americans -an antipathy approaching nearly to horror, a desire of revenge almost -hereditary; and destroyed the bonds of brotherhood which might have -subsisted between the two countries. It will take ages of just conduct -from her to the United States to eradicate this. Spain pursued a -different line of conduct toward her Mexican dominions, which were -settled by Europeans 60 years previous to any part of the United -States, and might be termed a conquered kingdom, rather than the -settlement of a savage country. This country she has therefore bound -up in all the ligatures of restrictions, monopolies, prohibitions, -seclusions, and superstitions; and has so carefully secluded all light -from bursting in on their ignorance, that they have vegetated like the -acorns in the forest, until the towering branches have broken through -the darkness of the wild which surrounded them and let in the light of -heaven. The approximation of the United States, with the gigantic -strides of French ambition, have begun to arouse their dormant -qualities, and to call into action the powers of their minds on the -subject of their political situation. - -An instance of their disposition for independence has been exhibited -in their feeble attempts at a revolution on the 15th of January, 1624, -under the viceroyalty of Don Diego Carrello Galves; the insurrection -on the 8th of June, 1692; and more recently, in 1797, under the Count -de Galves,[IV'-51] when they proclaimed him king of Mexico in the -streets of the capital, and 130,000 souls were heard proclaiming, -"Long live Galvez, king of Mexico!" It was then only for him to have -willed it, and the kingdom of Mexico was lost to Charles IV. forever. -But preferring his loyalty to his ambition, he rode out attended by -his guards to the mob, with sword in hand, crying out, "Long live his -Catholic majesty, Charles IV.," and threatening to put to instant -death with his own hand any persons who refused immediately to retire -to their houses. This dispersed the people. In another quarter of the -kingdom an immense number had also collected and proclaimed him king. -He sent 10,000 men against them, dispersed them, and had four -beheaded. Those firm measures saved the country at that period, and -for them he received the greatest honors from the court of Spain; but -was poisoned a short time after, fulfilling the maxim that "it is -dangerous to serve a jealous tyrant." For such always conceive that -the same power which stilled the ocean's rage can by its will raise -the storm into all the majesty of overwhelming fury. Thus, by taking -his life, it relieved them from the dread of his influence with the -Mexicans. - -England would naturally have been the power they would have looked up -to, in order to form an alliance to secure their independence; but the -insatiable avarice and hauteur exhibited by the English in their late -descents at La Plate [La Plata, in South America], with the disgrace -of their arms, has turned their views from that nation. - -They therefore have turned their eyes toward the United States, as to -a sister of the same soil, in their vicinity--one who has within her -power ample resources of arms, ammunition, and even men, to assist in -securing their independence, and who in that event would secure to -herself the almost exclusive trade of the richest country in the world -for centuries, and [the opportunity] to be her carriers as long as the -two nations exist. For Mexico, like China, will never become a nation -of mariners, but will receive the ships of all the world into her -ports, and give her bullion in exchange for the productions of their -different countries. Then, what would not be the advantages the United -States would reap from the event! Our numerous vessels would fill -every port, and our vicinity would enable us to carry off at least -nine-tenths of her commerce; even on the coast of the Pacific no -European nation could vie with us. There would also be a brisk inland -trade carried on with the Spanish provinces via Red river; and having -a free entrance into all their ports, we should become their factors, -agents, guardians--in short, their tutelar genius; as they fear but -hate France and all French men and measures. It therefore remains for -the government of the United States to decide whether, if Bonaparte -should seize the crown of Spain, the States would hold out a helping -hand to emancipate another portion of the western hemisphere from the -bonds of European tyranny and oppression: or, by a different policy, -suffer 6,000,000 people to become, in the hands of French intrigue, -enterprise, and tactics, a scourge on our southwestern boundaries, -which would oblige us to keep up a large and respectable military -force, and continually lay us liable to a war on the weakest and most -vulnerable part of our frontiers. - -Twenty thousand auxiliaries from the United States under good -officers, joined to the independents of the country, are at any time -sufficient to create and effect the revolution. These troops can be -raised and officered in the United States, but paid and supplied at -the expense of Mexico. It would be requisite that not only the general -commanding, but that every officer, down to the youngest ensign, -should be impressed with the necessity of supporting a strict -discipline, to prevent marauding, which should in some instances be -punished with death, in order to convince the citizens that we come as -their friends and protectors, not as their plunderers and tyrants. -Also, the most sacred regard should be paid not to injure the -institutions of their religion; thereby showing them we have a proper -respect for all things in any way connected with the worship of the -Deity, at the same time that we permit every man to adore him -agreeably to the dictates of his own judgment. - -The details requisite for the equipment, organization, etc., of the -corps, so as to adapt it to the locality of the country and the nature -of the service, could be easily formed, but would be impertinent here. - -Should an army of Americans ever march into the country, and be guided -and governed by these maxims, they will only have to march from -province to province in triumph, and be hailed by the united voices of -grateful millions as their deliverers and saviors, whilst our national -character resounds to the most distant nations of the earth. - -WASHINGTON, April 12th, 1808. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[IV'-1] Chapter IV., which I introduce to accommodate Pike's -Observations on New Spain, as the article may be briefly entitled, -consists of the leading piece of the App. to Pt. 3 of the orig. ed., -pp. 1-51; it had no number, but as it came first and was followed by a -piece presented as No. 2, it is of course to be taken as No. 1, _pro -forma_. The original heading was: Geographical, Statistical, and -General Observations made by Capt. Z. M. Pike, on the Interior -Provinces of New Spain, from Louisiana to the Vice Royalty, and -between the Pacific Ocean, Gulph of California and the Atlantic Ocean -or Gulph of Mexico. This was by far the most important article in the -whole work, bringing news of great public interest in 1810. Much of it -was original; how much of it was borrowed without acknowledgement -could only be said after careful examination of prior works on the -same subject. It should be compared with Humboldt and Bonpland's -Political Essay on the Kingdom of New Spain, with a Physical and -Geographical Atlas, etc., 2 vols., 4to, with atlas, folio, of 20 -plates. Pike's two maps of Mexico will be best understood in -connection with the same source of information: see Memoir, _antea_. - -[IV'-2] Nueva Espana (New Spain) is a term whose geographical and -political connotation has varied much. As the colonial name of what we -call Mexico it was first applied to Yucatan and Tabasco by Grijalva, -in 1518, and next extended to all the Cortesian conquests. The kingdom -of New Spain proper was a region under the audience of Mexico, which -corresponded closely to the modern states of Yucatan, Campeche, -Tabasco, Vera Cruz, Hidalgo, Guanajuato, Michoacan, Colima, Mexico, -Morelos, Tlascala, Puebla, Guerrero, Oajaca, and Chiapas. The -viceroyalty of New Spain, dating from 1535, when the first viceroy, -Mendoza, entered in possession, was much more comprehensive, as it -embraced all the Spanish possessions in Central and North America, -from the S. boundary of Costa Rica, as well as the West Indies and the -Spanish East Indies. Its political composition was the five audiences -of Mexico, Guadalajara, Guatemala, Santo Domingo, and Manila, and the -captaincy-general of Florida. During the eighteenth century the East -Indies and Guatemala were excluded from the viceroyalty. The -viceroyalty of New Spain, as the term was most generally used, long -consisted of the three "kingdoms" of New Spain, New Galicia, and New -Leon. This corresponded to modern Mexico, plus then undefined -territories of Texas, New Mexico, and California, now parts of the -United States. On the separation in 1793 of the Provincias Internas or -Internal Provinces, the viceroyalty of New Spain corresponded to the -present Mexico, plus the Californias, but minus southern Coahuila, -Durango, Sinaloa, Chihuahua, and Sonora. Spanish viceroyalty ceased in -1821, but "New Spain" was not finally "Mexico" till 1824 (during the -Empire under Iturbide, 1822-28). The term "Provincias Internas" was -vaguely used, as early as the seventeenth century, for the northern -parts of New Spain or Mexico. "In 1777 (by order of Aug. 22, 1776) a -new government was formed under this name, completely separated from -the viceroyalty of New Spain, and comprising Nueva Vizcaya ([New -Biscay] Durango and Chihuahua), Coahuila, Texas, New Mexico, Sinaloa, -Sonora, and the Californias. The Capital was Arizpe in Sonora, and the -audience of Guadalajara retained its judicial authority; the governor -was also military commandant. In 1786 and 1787-93 the government was -again subordinate to the viceroy. When the final separation was made -in 1793, California was attached to Mexico," Cent. Cyclop., 1894, _s. -v._, p. 828. This last "New Spain" is Pike's; and the present article -is mainly devoted to the Provincias Internas of this New -Spain--excepting that nothing is said of the Californias. - -[IV'-3] El Reino de Nueva Galicia, or New Galicia, was a prime -division of colonial New Spain, whose limits fluctuated, like those of -most Mexican political divisions, but for most of the seventeenth and -eighteenth centuries corresponded nearly to the modern states of -Jalisco, Aguas Calientes, and Zacatecas, plus a small part of San Luis -Potosi. The audience of Guadalajara, originating in 1548, had -jurisdiction over this Nueva Galicia; in 1786 the latter became the -intendency of Guadalajara; and after 1792 the Provincias Internas were -judicially subordinate to the audience of Guadalajara. Pike's -"administration of Guadalaxara" corresponds inexactly to the present -State of Jalisco or Xalisco. This lies on the Pacific coast, bordered -by the states of Sinaloa, Durango, Zacatecas, Aguas Calientes, -Guanajuato, Michoacan, and Colima; area, 27,261 sq. m.; pop., -1,280,500; capital, Guadalajara. The situation of this city is lat. -21 deg. N., long. 103 deg. 10' W.; it was founded in 1542, and is now the -second largest city in Mexico, pop. 95,000. That "one of the Gusman -family," who Pike says built it "in 1551" was probably Nuno or Nunez -Bertrande Guzman, b. Guadalajara (in Spain) about 1485, d. there 1544; -he was the enemy of Cortes, and the conqueror of New Galicia. Rio -Grande de Santiago is the largest river in the state, and Lago de -Chapala, which lies mostly within its limits, is the largest lake in -Mexico; area, over 1,300 sq. m. - -[IV'-4] Valladolid was the name of an old Castilian province in Spain, -and of the capital of that province; it was applied to a political -division in Mexico which has entirely disappeared, though -corresponding to some extent to the present State of Michoacan. The -capital of this was also called Valladolid until 1828, when it was -changed to present Morelia, in honor of the patriot priest Jose Maria -Morelos y Pavon, b. there Sept. 30th, 1765; joined the revolt of -Hidalgo, 1810; was captured Nov. 15th, 1815; executed Dec. 22d, 1815, -near the City of Mexico. - -[IV'-5] This administration has been so changed and subdivided that it -is not easily compared in a word with existing divisions which -represent its former extent. In general terms it was a south central -portion of Mexico with an extensive Pacific coast line, but cut off -from the Atlantic by Vera Cruz and Puebla, and bordered on the N. by -San Luis Potosi, etc. The present State of Mexico is an area of -somewhat over 9,000 sq. m., bounded by Queretaro, Hidalgo, Tlascala, -Puebla, Morelos, Guerrero, and Michoacan. Its capital is Toluca; for -the City of Mexico, capital of the republic, is in a small Federal -District set apart from the rest of the state (like our District of -Columbia), with an area of only 463 sq. m. The pop. of the present -State of Mexico is about 830,000; the capital city of the republic has -a pop. of 330,000; its situation is lat. 19 deg. 25' 45'' N., long. 99 deg. 7' -18'' W., at an alt. of about 7,500 feet. - -[IV'-6] The present State of Oajaca has an extensive Pacific -coast-line on the S., Guerrero and a small part of Puebla on the W., -Puebla and Vera Cruz on the N., Vera Cruz and Chiapas on the E.; area, -about 28,800 sq. m.; pop. about 816,000. The capital city of the same -name is on the Rio Verde or Atoyac, about 200 m. S. E. of the City of -Mexico; pop. 29,000. - -[IV'-7] Vera Cruz is the long, narrow maritime state of Mexico, with -the Gulf on the E., Tamaulipas on the N., and then bordered on the W., -S., and E., successively, by San Luis Potosi, Hidalgo, Puebla, Oajaca, -Chiapas, and Tabasco. The land is low along the Gulf, or in the -_tierra caliente_, but soon rises to the mountainous _tierra fria_ of -most of the state. The whole area is 27,450 sq. m.; pop. 642,000. The -long-famous seaport of Vera Cruz is the principal city, pop. 24,000, -in lat. 19 deg. 12' N., long. 96 deg. 9' E. This was founded near the present -site by Cortes in May, 1519, by the name of Villa Rica de la Vera -Cruz; site changed to the Rio de la Antigua in 1525; to present -position in 1599; became City of Vera Cruz in 1615; was taken by the -French in 1838, by the Americans in 1848, by the Allies in 1861. The -celebrated Picacho of Orizaba, 10 m. N. of Orizaba, alt. 18,314 feet, -is on the boundary between Vera Cruz and Puebla. This is the highest -mountain of N. America, except Mt. St. Elias. - -[IV'-8] Present State of Puebla is entirely cut off from the sea, -being wedged in among Vera Cruz on the E., Oajaca on the S., Guerrero -on the S. W., and Morelos, Mexico, Tlascala, and Hidalgo, on the W.; -area 12,740 sq. m.; pop. lately, 845,000; capital, La Puebla de los -Angeles, so called from a pious taradiddle; pop. about 110,000; it is -a very old city, founded about 1530, and was taken by the French in -1863. The famous peak of Popocatepetl, or Smoking mt., a volcano about -17,800 feet high, is on the boundary between this state and Mexico, 45 -m. S. E. of the city of the latter name; and N. of that peak is -another volcano, Ixtaccihuatl or the "Woman in White," over 16,000 -feet high. - -[IV'-9] Guanajuato is a small central state, surrounded by Zacatecas, -San Luis Potosi, Queretaro, Michoacan, Jalisco, and Aguas Calientes; -area, 11,370 sq. m., pop. over 1,000,000; capital of same name, about -lat. 21 deg. 1' N., long. 100 deg. 35' W.; pop. 52,000. - -[IV'-10] Zacatecas has altered less than some of the administrations, -the present state being bounded N. by Coahuila, N. and N. W. by -Durango, W. and S. W. and S. by Jalisco, S. by Aguas Calientes, E. by -San Luis Potosi; area, 25,230 sq. m.; pop. 585,640; capital of same -name, about lat. 22 deg. 40' N., pop. about 60,000. - -[IV'-11] Pike's "St. Louis" corresponds, though inexactly, to present -State of San Luis Potosi, lying among Nuevo Leon, Tamaulipas, and a -small extent of Vera Cruz on the E., Zacatecas on the W., Coahuila on -the N., and Guanajuato, Queretaro, and Hidalgo on the S.; area, 24,450 -sq. m.; pop. about 550,500; capital of the same name, 223 m. N. N. W. -of City of Mexico; pop. 62,600. - -[IV'-12] Nuevo Santander, whose history is something of a political -curiosity, was originally a division of colonial New Spain, and -continued to be known as a colony until 1786. The extent was about -that of the present State of Tamaulipas, bounded substantially as Pike -says, though it once overreached the Rio Grande into what is now -Texas. Tamaulipas has Texas on the N., separated by the Rio Grande; -the Gulf of Mexico on the E.; Nuevo Leon and Coahuila on the W.; San -Luis Potosi on the S. W. and S.; with a small extent of Vera Cruz on -the extreme S.; area, 29,350 sq. m.; pop. about 173,000; capital, -Ciudad Victoria. The river, on one of whose headwaters this city is -situated, falls into the Gulf near the Barra de Santander, as it is -still called, about 60 Mexican leagues S. of the mouth of the Rio -Grande, and rather less than 40 such leagues N. of Tampico; its length -is supposed to be about 150 m. - -[IV'-13] Or Nuevo Reino de Leon, as it was long styled. This was a -division of colonial New Spain, corresponding to the present State of -Nuevo Leon, but, when a kingdom, including certain portions of what -are now Tamaulipas and San Luis Potosi; it was attached to the -intendency of the latter in 1786. New Leon still has Tamaulipas along -the whole of its E. border, excepting that its northern panhandle is -environed by Coahuila, which thence extends on its W. side to San Luis -Potosi, which latter thence curves to meet Tamaulipas at the end of -the southern panhandle. The shape of some of the Mexican states would -show, in the absence of all history, that earthquakes and volcanoes -were not the only agitations against which New Spain contended in the -settling of some of her geographical problems. Area of New Leon, -24,000 sq. m.; pop. 272,000; capital, Monterey: for Pike's location of -Monterey on "Tiger" r., see note 33, p. 682, May 18th, 1807. The -position of this city is about lat. 25 deg. 40' N., long. 100 deg. 25' W.; -pop. 46,000; it is best known to us as a prize captured by the U. S. -forces under Z. Taylor, Sept. 23d, 1846. The Count of Monterey was one -Caspar de Zuniga y Azevedo, b. _ca._ 1540, d. Lima, Peru, Feb. 10th, -1606, viceroy of Mexico, Oct. 5th, 1595-1603, of Peru, Nov. 28th, -1604, till death; Monterey bay, Cal., named for him. The American -officer whom Pike names was Edward D. Turner of Massachusetts, who -entered the army as an ensign of the 2d Inf. Mar. 4th, 1791; became a -lieutenant July 13th, 1792: captain of the 2d sub-Legion Nov. 11th, -1793, and of the 2d Inf. Nov. 1st, 1796; served as brigade inspector -from Nov. 1st, 1799, to Apr. 1st, 1802; was retained as a captain of -the 1st Inf. from the latter date, and resigned Nov. 30th, 1805. - -[IV'-14] This comes at the end of the present dissertation, when Pike -has finished with his account of the Internal Provinces, to which he -now proceeds. Two of these, Sonora and Sinaloa, are "internal" to the -extent of bordering on the Gulf of California and not on the high sea. -These he never saw; those he traversed correspond to the present three -Mexican states of Chihuahua, Durango, and Coahuila, and to our -Territory of New Mexico, State of Texas, and a small part of the State -of Louisiana. Most of the commentary that would otherwise be here -offered has already been put upon Pike's itinerary through these -regions; but some points will come up for further criticism or -explanation. - -[IV'-15] New Mexico, as long as it was a province of New Spain, could -not be satisfactorily bounded, for the simple reason that its -boundaries were never clearly defined. Pike's ascription of lat. 44 deg. -N. sends it up to the shadowy border of "the Oregan"--that No Man's -Land till Lewis and Clark descended the Columbia to the South Sea. -This is no place to open the celebrated quarrel over boundaries that -hovered in the air like clouds on political paper; suffice it, that -when the Oregan became an undisputed possession of any nation, it -already belonged to the United States. Away from the Pacific coast, -Spanish dominion never exceeded 38 deg. N. in fact, whatever it may have -been on paper at any time. Shortly after Pike's time, _i. e._, from -Feb. 22d, 1819, an intelligible theoretical boundary was agreed upon -by the United States and Spain, though it was never run upon the -ground. This line, aside from any question of the still unsettled -boundary of Texas, ran from the Red r. to the Arkansaw r. on the -meridian of 100 deg. W. from Greenwich, up the Arkansaw to its source, -thence due N. on whatever the meridian might prove to be to lat. 42 deg. -N., thence on that parallel due W. to the Pacific. Spanish Nuevo -Mejico was quietly captured without resistance by the U. S. Army of -the West under Kearny in 1846; formally ceded in 1848; organized as a -U. S. territory in 1850; its southern boundary changed by the -acquisition of the Gadsden purchase and definitely established in -1853; Arizona detached on the W. in 1863 along the meridian of 109 deg. -W.; eastern boundary, the meridian of 103 deg. W.; present area, 122,460 -sq. m.; pop. in 1890 given as 153,593. Thus, to all intents and -practical purposes, Pike's "New Mexico" is our New Mexico and Arizona, -and thence indefinitely northward. Present Arizona has an area of -112,920 sq. m.; pop. 59,620 by the census of 1890. In December, 1863, -Governor John N. Goodwin and Secretary Richard C. McCormick, with -other new Territorial officials, entered into possession on the -ground, and formally proclaimed their functions. They proceeded to -establish the capital on Granite cr., a tributary of the Rio Verde, -and named it Prescott, for the historian, after having deliberated -whether to call it Audubon, for the ornithologist. The log house built -for the gubernatorial, secretarial, and all other functions was there -when I last saw it, in 1892, and still the residence of one of the -original party, Judge Fleury, who in the course of time exercised his -versatile talent in every capacity, from cook to acting governor. -Arizona is thus politically in its 32d year now (1895). Its historic -period dates from 1540 or 1536; the prehistoric compass of time, since -it was first inhabited, is very likely not exceeded by the Christian -era--to judge from recent exhumations in the valley of the Gila, -revealing a cluster of cities 6 m. long. Those who named the present -capital Phoenix builded better than they knew--the name, I mean, not -the mud hovels and wicker-work jacals which adorn some portions of -that new center of political intrigue to which were lately shifted the -inevitable dissensions that arose between the northern mountaineers -and the southern deserteers. - -[IV'-16] To correct in detail all such statements would hardly come -within the scope of cursory notes, and I usually pass them over, as -anyone can easily inform himself of the adjustment required for -geographical precision. But in this particular instance it is well to -remember that Pike had acquired an erroneous notion of the source of -the Yellowstone, from considering the _South_ Platte to be the whole -Platte, thus throwing the _North_ Platte out of court. Having no -knowledge of this great river, he fancied there was some spot whence -he could walk in a day to the source of any one of the four he -names--a feat for which the seven-leagued boots of fable would be -required: see note 5, p. 524. For some particulars concerning the Rio -Grande, see note 32, p. 642. To the different names which the river -had in different regions, add Rio Abajo and Rio Arriba for lower and -upper sections, not well defined but conveniently recognized, of Rio -del Norte above El Paso. Pike is quite right in the matter of Rio -Bravo--a name never applied to the river in any portion of its course -which he traversed in New Mexico. - -[IV'-17] Whatever the real implication of names bestowed upon actual -or alleged branches of the Colorado by the early explorers from whom -Pike drew his inspiration, as Escalante 1777, it is not difficult to -identify those he uses, even when his text does not agree with his -map, as happens in some cases. From the Rio Gila, for which see note -19, we will follow his map upward. 1. "Rio S^n. Maria" of the map, not -in the text. The name Santa Maria held for many years for the branch -of the Colorado now called Bill Williams' fork. This is composed of -two main streams, to one of which the name Santa Maria is now usually -restricted; the other is called Big Sandy. Bill Williams' fork does -not head in Bill Williams' mountain, being cut off from that by the -Rio Verde, etc.; its basin lies entirely W. of Aubrey and Chino -valleys, and of the Prescott plains. This river drains westward from -the Santa Maria, Granite, Juniper, Weaver, and other ranges in -Arizona, and falls into the Colorado from the E. at a place called -Aubrey City, the site of which was pointed out to me by a native when -I navigated the Colorado in 1865, though I saw nothing like a city. 2. -There is no mention in the text, nor any sign on the map, of the -Colorado Chiquito, otherwise Little Colorado r., though this is a -large water-course which, when it runs, drains an extensive area in N. -Arizona. This stream heads about the White, Mogollon, and other ranges -on or near the confines of New Mexico; receives from the Zunian mts. -its main fork, Rio Puerco of the West; flows N. W. past (E. of) the -San Francisco and Bill Williams' peaks, and falls into the Colorado -from the S. E., well up in the Grand Canyon of the latter; its own -lower courses are terribly canyonous for a great distance, its bed -being riven in chasms comparable even with the awful abyss of the -Colorado itself. 3. Non-appearance of the Colorado Chiquito affects to -some extent the identification of the river called in the text "de los -Anamas or Nabajoa" and lettered on the map "Rio Jasquevilla." This is -laid down as a large eastern branch of the Colorado which falls in -_above_ the Grand Canyon, and on which lived the "Nahjo" (Navajo) and -"Cosninas" (Cojnino) Indians, and _south_ of which were the "Indiens -Moqui, Independent since 1680," in four villages lettered "Oraybe," -"Mosanis," "Songoapt," and "Gualpi"--for, though the Moki legend is -set astride of the river itself, it belongs to these four villages S. -of the river. The stream in question certainly was meant for the -Colorado Chiquito; but most of its ascribed characters are those of -Rio San Juan of N. W. New Mexico, N. E. Arizona, and S. E. Utah. The -leaning toward the Colorado Chiquito is shown by the location of the -Cojnino Indians on this stream, and its passage next N. of the circle -of ten peaks lettered "Sierra de los Cosninas"--these indicating the -San Francisco, Bill Williams', and other mountains of central Arizona; -but identification with the San Juan is possible by the location of -the Navajos on its headwaters and of the Mokis further S., as well as -by its entrance into the Colorado _above_ the Grand Canyon--for Pike -charts the upper end of the canyon as the "Puerto del Bacorelli." Rio -San Juan heads in N. W. New Mexico, next W. of the Rio Grande basin, -having numerous collateral sources there and in contiguous parts of N. -E. Arizona and S. W. Colorado; hence it enters S. E. Utah and runs to -the Colorado around the base of Mt. Navajo, thus including in its -ramifications adjacent corners of two states and two territories; two -of its affluents retain to this day the names Rio de las Animas and -Rio Navajo, respectively. Among its larger tributaries may be -mentioned Rio Chusco, Chasco, or Chaco, and especially Rio Chelly--the -latter being that one the mystery of whose famous Canyon de Chelly was -fathomed by Captain J. H. Simpson in 1859. The two strange words which -Pike uses in this connection, "Bacorelli" and "Jasquevilla," both -treated in the Index, are not the same as Jicarilla, present name of -certain mountains in Arizona and of a certain tribe of Indians called -in Arizona "Hickory" Apaches. 4. The fact that the Grand Canyon of the -Colorado is indicated on Pike's map may be certified in more than one -way: (_a_) He marks below it certain "Indiens Chemequaba," _i. e._, -Chemehuevi, a Shoshonean tribe then as now living in Arizona below the -canyon, and thus isolated from their parent stock among Apaches of -Athapascan lineage. (_b_) Pike's term "Cosninas," for certain Indians -and mountains, is still an alternative name for the Cosnino, Cojnino, -or Cataract Canyon, a side-spur of the Grand Canyon, and still the -residence of a curious cave-dwelling tribe called Yavasupai, Havasupi, -or Aguazul, who numbered 214 when I visited them in 1881. (_c_) The -trans-continental route via the Arkansaw and Colorado rivers, which -Pike suggests as the "best communication from ocean to ocean," need -not be supposed to run through the Grand Canyon, but rather to -approximate that lately achieved by the Atlantic and Pacific R. R., -connecting on the E. with the A., T., and S. F. R. R., on the W. with -the So. Cala. R. R. 5. West of the Grand Canon Pike traces a -problematical "Rio de los Panami des surfurcas on ignore l -Embouchure," without beginning or end. This suggests Virgin r., whose -junction with the Colorado in Nevada was then unknown. 6. Above the -Grand Canyon, Pike forks the Colorado distinctly into two main -branches, referable of course to the Grand and the Green rivers. 7. -The main course of Grand r. is lettered "Rio de los Duimas," for which -read Las Animas--but not "Los Anamas or Nabajoa" of Pike's text, -already accounted for. This "Duimas" may be taken as intended to -represent the whole course of Grand r. and its branches, as the -Gunnison, etc. 8. The main course of the "Duimas" or Grand r. is what -Pike means by Rio "de los Dolores" of the text, nameless on his map. -This is the Dolores r. of present geography, running chiefly in -Colorado, but joining the Grand in Utah. Pike forks this; one of these -forks is the continuation of the Dolores; the other is present San -Miguel r. of Colorado. 9. Green r. is the one lettered "Rio -Zanguananos," as the main continuation of the Colorado itself. This is -correct, though the singular S-shaped course in which it is laid down -is so far out of drawing that the two branches of it which he names -are thrown in the wrong direction. These two are the San Rafael and -San Xavier of both text and map. The first one of them is present San -Rafael r.; and if we take Pike's San Xavier to be the next above on -the same side, it corresponds to Price r. We must not seek for any -streams higher up the Grand than Price r.; the early Spanish travelers -did not get very far in that direction; and Pike sets all these -streams considerably S. of Great Salt l., not beyond the latitude he -assigns to the head of the Rio Grande. The old Spanish trail from -Colorado into Utah passed a certain Sierra La Sal, or Salt mt., which -is situated near the confluence of the Green and the Grand; continued -across both these rivers a little above their junction, and so on -westward between the San Rafael r. and the San Xavier or Price r., -into the basin of present Sevier r. and Sevier l. Now Pike sets his -"Montaigne de Sel," or Mountain of Salt, close to the main Rio -Zanguananos or Green r., and directly against the mouth of his San -Rafael. This particular combination could not have been accidental, -and seems to show what was really mapped, though so distortedly. As -intimated in beginning this note, I have attempted identifications -without prejudice to any original implication of the Spanish records, -but solely according to what I find in Pike. The early names -themselves seem open to the interpretation here offered, and I know -from several futile attempts which I made that Pike's geography of the -Colorado basin would be hard to square with the facts in any other -way. Should the present identifications be acceptable, some hitherto -unsurmounted difficulties would prove to have been overcome. - -[IV'-18] This paragraph is contradicted by the map, on which "Rio de -S^ta. Buenaventura" runs W. into a nameless lake, S. of a certain Lac -de Timpanagos, and is the first river, N. and W. of Green r., that -does not connect with the Colorado. The Buenaventura is a ghost-river -which haunted geography for many years. Nothing like such a river as -this was represented to be exists--it is as much of a myth in Utah and -California as Lahontan's fabulous Long r. in Minnesota and Dakota. But -it is a rule with hardly an exception that every myth has some basis -of fact. In so far as Pike's Buenaventura represents anything in -nature, I imagine it to be an adumbration of Sevier r., and its sink -to be Lake Sevier, in the western part of Utah, S. of Great Salt l. -True, the Buenaventura is laid down very much out of the actual course -of the Sevier; but not more wrongly than Green r. is, and the very -curious way in which the Sevier winds about to reach its sink would -hardly have been discovered and correctly delineated by those early -travelers in the "Great American Desert." The nameless lake itself is -not very far out of the way on Pike's map. Possibly also, the -mysterious river, "whose mouth is unknown," may be intended for some -section of the Sevier; for, if we were to connect this trace with -Pike's Buenaventura, we should have a recognizable representation of -the Sevier. But Pike heads his Rio S. Buenaventura, by a principal -branch called "Rio de S^n. Clemente," in that portion of the -continental divide he marks "Sierra Verde," _i. e._, Green mts., also -the source of present Green r. We should note further in this -connection the appearance on Pike's map of New Mexico of a certain -river running northward, lettered "Rio de Piedro Amaretto del -Missouri." Here, "Amaretto" is a mistake of the engraver for -_Amarillo_, the phrase being Sp. Piedra Amarilla = F. Pierre Jaune or -Roche Jaune = E. Yellow Stone, a principal branch of the Missouri. As -we have repeatedly seen already, Pike was determined to interlock the -headwaters of the Yellowstone, Platte, Arkansaw, and Rio Grande in -some one spot in the Rocky mts.--and here we have it, just over the -divide that separates these Atlantic waters collectively from those of -the general basin of the Colorado. Observe, also, how nearly the -dotted trail of the "Country explored by a Detachment of American -Troops commanded by Captain Pike" reaches to the supposed Yellowstone. - -The Sevier r. possesses a melancholy interest as the scene of the -wanton and brutal murder by Piute Indians of Captain John Williams -Gunnison and most of his companions, near Sevier l., Oct. 27th, 1853. -The particulars are given by Lieutenant E. G. Beckwith, P. R. R. Rep., -II. 1855, pp. 72-74. The massacre occurred at break of day of the -27th, not on the 26th, as usually reported. There was no provocation -whatever, and no thought of danger on the part of the devoted band. -Those killed, besides Captain Gunnison, were Mr. E. H. Kern, -topographer and artist; Mr. F. Creuzfeldt, botanist; Mr. Wm. Potter, a -citizen of Utah, guide; John Bellows, an employee; and three men of -the military escort, which consisted of a corporal and six privates; -only four of the whole party escaped with their lives. Lieutenant -Beckwith expressly exonerates the Mormons from complicity in the -outrage; public opinion thought otherwise; and the official record of -Captain Gunnison's death stands "Killed 26 Oct. 53 by a band of -Mormons and Inds near Sevier Lake Utah." The lamented and accomplished -officer met his fate while conducting explorations and surveys for a -railroad route near the 38 deg. and 39 deg. parallels of N. lat. He had -graduated from the U. S. Military Academy at West Point July 31st, -1837, when he became a second lieutenant of the 2d Artillery; was -transferred with that rank to the corps of Topographical Engineers -July 7th, 1838; became first lieutenant May 9th, 1846; and obtained -his captaincy Mar. 3d, 1853. - -[IV'-19] Pike acquired a good idea of the Gila, for one who never saw -it, and it is well laid down on his map; though it joins the Colorado -a considerable distance above the head of the Gulf of California, the -confluence is below 33 deg., being in lat. 32 deg. 43' 32'' N., long. 114 deg. 36' -10'' W. The Gila was known to the whites before the Mississippi was -discovered; it was long better known than the Rio Grande, and down to -the present century was far better known than the Rio Colorado. The -valley of the Gila was the first seat of semi-civilization within the -present limits of the United States; and Tucson, on the Santa Cruz r., -disputes with St. Augustine in Florida the record of being the oldest -continuously inhabited white settlement in our country; but St. A. was -founded by Spaniards about the middle of the sixteenth century. An -early if not the first name of the Gila was Rio de los Apostolos, more -fully Rio Grande de los Apostolos, as the legend appears, for example, -on Vaugondy's map, 1783, where so many apostolic and canonical towns -are marked along the river as to give its valley the appearance of a -well-settled region, including even that ancient and celebrated -structure, the Casa Grande, still extant. Rio de los Apostolos or -Apostles' r. appears on maps of the present century, as for example on -the one which Captain Clark drew at the Mandans in the winter of -1804-5, and which Captain Lewis dispatched to President Jefferson -April 7th, 1805, but which was never published of full size till -September, 1893. Pike's first branch of the Gila is called "Rio de la -Asuncion," with Rio Verde as its main fork. This is correct; for the -river of the Assumption of the B. V. M., whatever may be the myth upon -which such an extraordinary assumption was based, is that now known as -Rio Salinas, Rio Salado, and Salt r., into which the Verde falls near -Mt. McDowell and the fort of the same name. The confluence of Salt r. -with the Gila is below Phoenix, present capital of Arizona, and but -little above the point where the Agua Fria also falls into the Gila. -The Verde is the principal river of central Arizona, for the most part -flowing southward, though it starts northward by the headwater called -Granite cr. and then makes a loop; this creek is the site of Prescott, -first capital of Arizona on the establishment of the Territory in -1863, and of Fort Whipple, established by the troops to which I was -attached in July, 1864. Pike's small branch of the Gila lettered "Rio -de Ozul," for which read Rio Azul or Blue r., is the present San -Carlos, of which we lately heard a good deal on account of the unruly -Apaches at the agency of that name. Present Blue cr. is a small branch -higher up on the same side, near Pike's Rio San Francisco, which -latter he rightly charts as one of the initial forks of the Gila. His -Rio San Pedro, still so called, is the principal Gileno tributary from -the S. It acquired special importance in connection with the U. S. and -Mexican Boundary Survey. Near this stream he marks "Pres[idio] de -Tubson," at the town of "S^n. Xavier del bac," in the "Senora" -(Sonora) of that day. - -The Indian tribes of the Gila valley which are located on the map may -be here noted, as their names do not come up elsewhere in this work, -and with these may also be conveniently considered those which Pike -marks on the Colorado above the Gila. Such are, on the Gila: The Yumas -(Cuchans); the "Cojuenchis"; the "Cucapa" (Cocopas); the Papagos; the -"Cocomaricopas" (Maricopas); and on the Colorado: the "Chemequaba" -(Chemehuevis, who are of Shoshonean stock, as we have already seen); -the "Jalchedum"; the "Yabijoias" (Yavapais); the "Yamaya" (Amaquaqua, -Amaqua, Majave or Mohave). All these Indians lived within the present -territory of the United States, occupying the valley of the Gila on -both sides from above the junction of the San Pedro down to the -Colorado, and up the Colorado, on the Arizona side at least, to the -Grand Canyon, to the almost entire exclusion of other tribes. They were -bounded on the N. by Shoshonean tribes in California, Nevada, Utah, -and a small part of Arizona; on the E. by Athapascan tribes, -especially the Apaches; on the S., they stretched throughout Lower -California, and far into Mexico. With the single exception just said, -the names that I can identify all are now classed under two main -family groups or linguistic stocks, Piman and Yuman; and all belong to -the latter, excepting the Papagos and the Pimas themselves. 1. The -Piman family is mainly Mexican, as of its nine tribes or divisions -only three are Arizonian. Of these, the Sobaipuri, who lived on the -Santa Cruz and San Pedro branches of the Gila, have entirely -disappeared. The Pimas proper, Upper Pimas, or Pimas Altas (so called -in distinction from the Lower Pimas, Pimas Bajas, or Nevomes, of -Mexico), have lived for 200 years on the Gila and Salado, in the -position assigned by Pike to the Cocomaricopas. The Papagos lived -further S. and extended into Mexico. According to late official -returns (for 1890), there were 4,464 Pimas and 5,163 Papagos under the -Pima Agency on the Gila. 2. The Yuman family is less summarily to be -disposed of, as the area of its distribution in the United States is -more extensive and its divisions are more numerous, and several of -them are entirely extralimital in Lower California and Mexico. The -name _Yuma_ is given by Whipple as a Cuchan word meaning "sons of the -river." In the early days of our occupation of Arizona some of the -tribes along the Colorado were hostile; but since the subjugation of -the Yumas and Mohaves, followed by the establishment of Fort Yuma and -Fort Mohave, they have given very little trouble, with the exception -of the Hualapais or Walapais. These may be properly classed as Yuman -by linguistic affinities, but they are rather mountain than river -Indians, and have within comparatively few years been most decidedly -hostile. In January, 1865, it was my misfortune, which I shall never -cease to regret, to be concerned in a cruel massacre--for I cannot -call it a fight--in which about 30 Hualapais were killed, in the -Juniper mts., a very few miles from the spot where Camp Hualapais was -later established. My friend, the late Colonel William Redwood Price, -when major of the 8th Cavalry (d. Dec. 30th, 1881), had the handling -of the Hualapais after this; in 1867 they were about 1,500 people, -with probably 400 warriors; he killed probably 175 of them, mostly -men, and brought them to terms in 1869, when a batch of prisoners was -sent to San Francisco. In 1881, when we reoccupied Camp Hualapais and -named it Camp Price, a threatened outbreak was averted by putting a -chief in irons. The Hualapais now number perhaps 750, in N. W. -Arizona, and are almost the only members of the Yuman stock in the -Territory whom we have not entirely broken down, pauperized, and -debauched. The shocking syphilization of all the Yuman Indians along -the Colorado has been notorious for many years. The Yumas or Umas -proper, or Cuchans, have been segregated; there are or were lately -about 1,000 at the Mission Agency in California, and 300 at the San -Carlos in Arizona. Of the Mohaves, some 650 are at the Colorado River -Agency in Arizona, 800 at San Carlos, and perhaps 400 at large. The -disestablishment of Fort Mohave is quite recent; I was post surgeon -there in 1881. There are about 300 Maricopas at the Pima Agency in -Arizona. The Cocopas are a small tribe whose census is uncertain; they -live on the California side of the Colorado up to the vicinity of the -Gila. The Yavasupai or Aguazul Indians, who live in Cojnino or -Cataract canyon, to the number of about 200, as already said, note 17, -are entirely cut off from the world in the bottom of the chasm -selected for their abode. Some of them I found occupying holes in the -rock, which they walled up like old-fashioned cliff-dwellers; while -others were sheltered in wickiups scattered about the few acres of -arable ground they could find to irrigate for the cultivation of their -corn, beans, melons, squashes, peaches, apricots, and sunflower-seeds. - -[IV'-20] This is the main fork or largest branch of the Rio Grande. As -already remarked, note 23, p. 632, Pike maps it too high up; for it -runs entirely E. of the mountains (Sacramento, Guadalupe, White, -etc.), W. of which he traces it, and its mouth is 346 m. by the -channel of the Rio Grande below the site of Presidio del Norte, in -lat. 29 deg. 40' N., long. 101 deg. 20' W. The length of the river is supposed -to be between 700 and 800 m. The Pecos heads in the mountains -immediately W. of Santa Fe--on the E. side of the Santa Fe range and -W. side of Las Vegas range, among such peaks as the Truchas, Cone, -Baldy, Lake, etc., there flowing due S. before it bears off to the -left. It receives numerous small tributaries, both above and below the -point where it passes by the canyon, old pueblo, and modern town of -Pecos. The name is derived from the old pueblo, which was situated on -one of those tributaries in the mountains, some 25 m. S. E. of Santa -Fe. The Pecos have for many years been currently reported to have been -among the straitest sect of the Montezuman faith, and the belief is -general that they were those who longest guarded the holy fire in -their estufas and looked to the east for the advent of their -paraclete. This is a traditional taradiddle which has no foundation in -fact. Not that Montezuma Ilhuicamina and Montezuma Xocoyotzin were not -real historical persons; nor that the latter, Montezuma II., was not -euhemerized and apotheosized; simply, that the Pecos people never -worshiped him. The myth recrudesced during the old Santa Fe trade, and -was found in full swing on our peaceable conquest of New Mexico in -1846. _Pecos_ is corrupted from the (Tanoan) Jemez word _Paquiu_, -applied later than the aboriginal name _Tshiquite_, rendered -_Cicuique_ in old Sp. chronicles. Pecos "was in 1540 the largest -Indian village or pueblo in New Mexico, containing a population of -about 2,000 souls, which formed an independent tribe speaking the same -language as the Indians of Jemez. In 1680 the Pecos rebelled with the -others, but surrendered peaceably to Vargas in 1692, and thereafter -remained loyal to Spain," Cent. Cyclop. Names, _s. v._ "What with the -massacres of the second conquest, and the inroads of the Comanches, -they gradually dwindled away, till they found themselves reduced to -about a dozen, comprising all ages and sexes; and it was only a few -years ago that they abandoned the home of their fathers and joined the -Pueblo of Jemez," Gregg, Comm. Pra., I., 1844, p. 271. The pueblo was -desolate and in ruins when our Army of the West came by in 1846: see -Lieut. Emory's report, Ex. Doc. 41, 30th Congr., 1st Sess., pub. 1848, -p. 30, with plate facing it; also, a different view, on the plate -facing p. 447 of Lieut. Abert's report in the same volume. The latter -says, p. 446: "In the afternoon [Sept. 26th, 1846] I went out on the -hills to see the ancient cathedral of Pecos. The old building and the -town around it are fast crumbling away under the hand of time. The old -church is built in the same style as that of San Miguel; the ends of -the rafters are carved in imitation of a scroll; the ground plan of -the edifice is that of a cross. It is situated on a hill not far from -the winding course of the river. High ridges of mountains appear to -converge until they almost meet behind the town, and through a little -gap one catches sight of a magnificent range of distant peaks that -seem to mingle with the sky." Abert was told that the surviving -remnant went to live with the Zunis; but Gregg's statement is no doubt -correct, especially as Emory says, _l. c._, that "they abandoned the -place and joined a tribe of the original race over the mountains, -about 60 miles south." The modern small village of Pecos grew up close -by the original site, which was abandoned in 1840. - -[IV'-21] Here we enter the legendary land where we are liable to be -soon confronted with the standard specter of the northwest passage to -India, and other well-dressed phantoms. The body of water which the -map shows probably represents Utah l., south of Great Salt l., and -connected therewith by the short course of the Jordan. This seems to -be what Pike means by the legend: "This lake is known as high as the -40 deg. of Lat. there it opens wider to the West and receives the Waters -of the Rio Yampancas"; for we can readily understand this as a way of -saying that the lake is connected with a larger one to the W. Utah l. -is meridionally E. of Great Salt l. by a few miles, and entirely S. of -it; the Jordan is a very short stream between them. In a broad sense, -then, Pike's Lac de Timpanagos or Lake of Tampanagos includes both -these bodies of water; and his Rio Yampancas answers to Bear r., the -large stream which falls into Great Salt l. at Bear River bay. His -Sierra de Tampanagos covers the mountains on the E. and S. E. of Great -Salt l. A different form of the same word appears in his "Indiens -Yamparicas" of that region, and yet another in the legend: "The Lake -of Tampanagos is supposed to be the same as the Lake of Thequaio in -the Chart d'Alzate de Thequao placed in 40 deg. of Lat. some Historians -pretend that the Aretiqui comes from this Lake." - -[IV'-22] _Chapetones_ is a word which, with several variants in form, -is pretty well known, and to be found in many dictionaries, though its -origin may never have been satisfactorily shown, or at least agreed -upon. In its application to un-American Spaniards in America the sense -implied seems to have been always reproachful--perhaps something as -our cowboys and other "rustlers" in the wild and woolly West would -speak of a "tenderfoot" or "greeny." In Mexico the word corresponding -to Chapeton or Chapetone was _Gachupin_ or _Gachupine_, "applied to -natives of Spain who are called Chapetones in Peru and Maturrangos in -Buenos Aires," as one of the authorities before me says. I am afraid -that it is significant of some unpleasant matters already noted, to -find Pike here using the word said to be current in Peru, instead of -that which was usual in Mexico: see Memoir, _antea_. Geo. W. Kendall's -Narrative of the Texan Expedition of 1841, 2 vols., small 8vo, London, -1845, II. p. 75, speaks of "the _Gachupines_, or natives of Old -Spain"; and p. 76: "the _Gachupines_ were indiscriminately -slaughtered," etc. Gregg, Comm. Pra., I. 1844, p. 170, has: -"_Gachupin_--a term used to designate European Spaniards in America." -Wislizenus uses _Gachupins_. - -[IV'-23] That is, Rio San Francisco, one of the initial forks of the -Gila: see the map, and note 19. The other is the main continuation of -the Gila, sometimes called Rio San Domingo. The confluence is in -Arizona, a few miles over the New Mexican border. There are mountains -in this region called the San Francisco divide, and others known as -the San Francisco range--both by no means to be confounded with the -San Francisco mt. of the range in north-central Arizona. Whether the -ruins of which Pike speaks as on this river be the work of the -aboriginal colonists of Old Mexico from the northwest is, of course, -in question; he simply renders a prevalent opinion of his time. The -oldest _authentic_ ruins known to exist in Arizona have only very -recently been brought to light by the exhumations conducted by my -friend, Mr. Frank H. Cushing, of the Hemenway Archaeological -Expedition, in 1886-88, in the valley of the Salado or Salt r., near -the town of Tempe, and not far from Phoenix. An account of these -discoveries, from the pen of Dr. Washington Matthews, U. S. A., forms -part of the Seventh Memoir of Vol. VI. of Mem. Nat. Acad. Sci., 1893, -pp. 142-161, figs. 1-22. Mr. Cushing dug up mounds he supposes to be -from 1,000 to 2,000 years old, full of bones and pottery, and -revealing structures, some of which recall the long famous Casa Grande -itself. The buildings represented by the cluster of mounds crowded an -area some 6 m. long and 1/2 to 1 m. wide. Five of the best marked -mounds, standing in the places of groups of houses, have been named -Los Muertos, Los Guanacos, Los Hornos, Las Canopas, and Las Acequias. -Four kinds of architecture have been recognized as priest-temples -(style of Casa Grande); sun-temples, in some cases 200 feet long by -150 broad; certain great communal houses, a sort of several-storied -prototypes of our modern city flats; and ultramural huts, jacals, or -wickiups. I should have called them respectively hieroecias, -helioecias, synoecias, and exoecias. Those old Saladoans had an -extensive system of irrigation, the lines of acequias madres or -mother-ditches alone representing over 150 m. of dug-way; some of -these canals are now utilized by the new-comers. It took many thousand -people many years to leave monuments like these. Their actual -antiquity is unknown; that it is very great is obvious; it is great -enough to have resulted in the disappearance of everything but bone -and clay. There is no sign of wood-work or textile fabric. Conjecture -of a thousand years or more may reasonably be based on comparison of -the natural rate of decay of structures known since the historic -period, 1540. Thus, the Casa Grande has not changed perceptibly in our -day, except from vandalism, and probably looks much as it did 350 -years ago. It would appear also that the same indefatigable explorer -has settled the long-mooted question of the Seven Cities of Cibola -(Cebola, Sibola, Zibola), against any theory of their being the Moki -(Tusayan) villages, or being anywhere else than in the vicinity of -Zuni itself. The names which have come down to us since Coronado, -1541, are: (1) Ahacus, Avicu, Aquico, Jahuicu, Havico; (2) Canabe; (3) -...; (4) Aquinsa; (5) Alona; (6) Musaqui, Macaque, Macaquia; (7) -Caquina. According to a certain phonetic system the preferable -spelling is given as: (1) Hawiku; (2) Kyanawe; (3) Ketchupawe; (4) -Apina or Pinawan; (5) Halona; (6) Matsaki; (7) Kyakima. All these were -in what is now Valencia Co., N. M.; two were some miles S. W. of Zuni, -near the village of Ojo Caliente; two were nearer Zuni, but E. of it; -two were within 3 m. of Zuni, S. of it; while one, Halona, occupied in -part, at least, the site of the present pueblo. The ruin of -Hishota-uthla, classed as "Cibolan" though not as one of the Seven -Cities, is 12 m. N. E. of Zuni, on the road to Fort Wingate; -excavation there has revealed "a compactly-built, many-storied -stronghold of stone containing a population of probably more than a -thousand people," supposed to have been dead and gone long before -Coronado passed that way. Zuni, now one of the best known of all the -extant pueblos in New Mexico, is also the best living exemplar of such -places. Its antiquity is great, though hardly estimable with -precision. Some of its inhabitants made a tour of the United States -under Mr. Cushing's management in 1881 and 1882. Immense collections -of implements, utensils, and the like were made about that time by the -late Colonel James Stevenson, and deposited in our museums. I visited -the town in the summer of 1864, when it was far from having been as -well exploited as it has since become; so my own observations are -obsolete. The Zuni nation, otherwise Cuni, Sune, Soone, Suinyi, -Shiwina, etc., sole member of the Zunian linguistic stock, has but one -permanent pueblo, though it also inhabits at times three other small -villages, of the nature of "summer resorts," as we should say of our -similar aestival refuges. These Indians numbered 1,613 by the census of -1890. They are well distinguished by their speech from all the various -Tusayan, Tanoan, and Keresan pueblonians of New Mexico, Arizona, and -Chihuahua: for some of which, see next note. - -[IV'-24] I can find no better place than this to bring up some matters -which require attention concerning certain pueblos which Pike locates -on his map, but which, being off his route, he does not notice in his -text. The Tanoan pueblos have been pretty fully noted in the foregoing -itinerary, but the Tusayan and Keresan have not been sufficiently -treated. We must first come to an understanding of the term "Pueblo -Indians." This is simply a convenient phrase, or _facon de parler_, to -designate various tribes which, in New and Old Mexico, and Arizona, -settled in permanent habitations, became attached to the soil, -practiced agriculture, kept flocks, and built the kind of towns called -"pueblos." They are thus collectively distinguished from all roving -and more or less warring tribes; they are settlers, not nomads; -farmers and graziers rather than hunters, and of peaceful rather than -predatory proclivities. This step in the direction of civilization was -not however taken without some sacrifice of the strength of the -natural wild animal, and they have suffered in consequence. They are -never "bad" Indians; simply poor, tame ones, who for ages have been -the prey of the priest, the trader, and the wild Indian. But the point -to be insisted on is, that "Pueblo Indian" does not mean all one kind -of Indians. It includes various tribes of distinct ethnic characters, -the representatives of several linguistic lineages, who have severally -yielded to their environments, and thus become collectively modified -in a way that brings about that appearance of affinity which does not -exist, and tends to obscure those radical distinctions of race which -do exist. We say, for instance, "New Yorker," meaning anyone who lives -in New York; but it would be as far from the fact to suppose that all -Pueblo Indians are of one race as that all New Yorkers are Americans. -The differences in language, and therefore in lineage, of the Tusayan, -Keresan, Tanoan, and Zunian pueblonians is as great as that of the -English, French, German, and Spanish peoples. We must not be misled by -the convenience of a phrase: see note 3, p. 598. The Pueblonians to be -here noted belong either (1) to the Tusayan federation, or (2) to the -Keresan linguistic family. - -1. Pike marks, W. of the Continental divide and in the region of the -Colorado Chiquito, S. of the San Juan r., six Indian villages, which -he calls Oraybe, Mosanis, Songoapt, Gualpi, Chacat, and Cumpa. For the -last two, see note 21, p. 630; the other four are the well-known Moki -Indians, living on the four Moki mesas, about 50 m. N. E. of the -Colorado Chiquito, in N. E. Arizona. With a single (Tanoan) exception, -those Indians are of Shoshonean stock; and without exception, they -form the Tusayan confederacy. The ethnic affinities of Mokis are with -such Indians as the Snakes, Utes, Comanches, and other well-known -members of the Shoshonean race which overran so vast an area in -western parts of the United States. But these settled down in Arizona -and built pueblos, isolated from their kindred and surrounded by -Athapascan (Navajo and Apache) tribes. They are at present the only -Shoshonean tribe in Arizona, excepting the handful of Chemehuevis who -live among Yuman tribes on the Colorado Grande, and unless there be -also a few Kwaiantikwokets on the northern border about Mt. Navajo. -The Mokis have resided in their present position for more than 200 -years. This habitat is the plateau of moderate extent, commonly called -the Moki mesa, some special elevations of which are well-known -landmarks by the name of the Moki buttes, in full view from the main -road which passes S. of them. Three of the most conspicuous of these -buttes are called Chimney, Signal, and Spring. The mesa is between -long. 110 deg. and 111 deg. W., in lat. 36 deg. N. and southward, and thus to the -S. W. of the Navajos; the locality is sometimes called the "Province -of Tusayan." Here the Mokis proper, of Shoshonean stock, built six -villages; and a seventh village, probably also about 200 years old, -called Hano (or Tewa) was built with them by Tanoan (Tewan or Teguan) -refugees from the Rio Grande. Thus even the compact and isolated Moki -establishment is not quite homogeneous, ethnically speaking. The -Tusayan census is about 2,000; the Tanoans there were lately counted -as 132. Among the names of the seven villages, the four which Pike -gives can be recognized under their modern spellings, as -Oraybe=Oraibi, etc. One authority I have consulted renders Oraibi, -Shipauliwisi, Shongapavi, Mishongnivi, Shichoamavi, Walpi (or -Hualpee), and Tewa (_i. e._, Hano). Another, and probably preferable -set of orthographies, is Oraibi, Shupaulovi, Shumepovi, Mashongnavi, -Sichumovi, Walpi, and Hano. The name Tusayan, which varies to Tucayan, -Tuzan, etc., is derived from a Zunian word Usaya, applied to certain -pueblos once inhabited by the confederacy. The Tusayans' name of -themselves is a word variously rendered Hopituh, Hapitu, Hopee, Hopi, -Opii, etc. Other words designating them, or some of them, are -Cinyumuh, Shenoma or Shinumo, and Totonteac. The term now usually -rendered Moki was longest current as Moqui; it is also found as Maqui, -Magui, Mohace, Mohotse, and "Monkey." - -2. The Keresan family consists entirely of Pueblo tribes who live in -New Mexico along the Rio Grande and some of its tributaries, where -their pueblos are interspersed with others of Tanoan stock, in the -moderate area to which their range is thus restricted. The family name -is variously rendered by different authors, as Keres, Keran, Kera; -Queres, Queris, Quera, Quirix; Chuchacas or Chuchachas; also, -Keswhawhay. Some ethnists divide these people into two dialectal -groups: one including the pueblos of Acoma and Laguna and their -outliers; the other, all the rest of the pueblos about to be named. -Acoma is the only pueblo which exists on the site occupied at the date -of the earliest Spanish annals. Laguna dates from 1699. There were -five Keresan pueblos in 1582; there had been seven in 1542. The full -list of Keresan pueblos, as given by Powell in alphabetical order, -with the census for 1890, is: 1. Acoma, including the summer pueblitos -of Acomita and Pueblita; pop. 566. 2. Cochiti, on the W. bank of the -Rio Grande, 27 m. S. W. of Santa Fe; pop. 268. "The inhabitants -formerly successively occupied the Potrero de las Vacas, the Potrero -San Miguel, the now ruined pueblo of Cuapa, and the Potrero Viejo," -Cent. Cyc., _s. v._ 3. *Hasatch. 4. Laguna, including the eight other -places whose names are here starred; pop. 1,143. Laguna is thus really -a group of small pueblos situated on and near Rio San Jose, W. of the -Rio Grande. The original foundation was by Zunians as well as by -Keresans, and the place was called Kawaiko. 5. *Paguate. 6. -*Punyeestye. 7. *Punyekia. 8. *Pusityitcho. 9. San Felipe; pop. 554. -This is called by the name of the mission which the Spanish founded -there. 10. Santa Ana, pop. 253, on the Rio Jemez, W. of the Rio -Grande. This Spanish name is also that of a mission, usurping the -native name Tamaya. 11. Santo Domingo; pop. 670. 12. *Seemunah. 13. -Sia, on the Jemez; pop. 106; also called Chea, Chia, Cia, Cilia, -Silla, Tsea, Tsia, Tzia, Zia. "In 1582 Sia was said to be the largest -of five villages forming a province called Punames. The recent pueblo -dates from about 1692, when the village formerly occupied was -abandoned. The tribe, which was once comparatively populous, now -numbers but 106. The decrease is attributed largely to infectious -disease and to the killing of persons accused of witchcraft," Cent. -Cyc., _s. v._ 14. *Wapuchuseamma. 15. *Ziamma. Total pop. 3,560 for -the 17 places, of which 15 (all but Acomita and Pueblita) are -permanent pueblos, and 7 are officially rated as principal and -distinct. Those which are given by Pike in his itinerary have been -already noted, along with the Tanoan pueblos as they occur in his -text. - -[IV'-25] For remarks on the Indians mentioned in this paragraph which -would be introduced here had I not recently given them elsewhere, the -reader is referred to Lewis and Clark, ed. 1893, p. 55, note 7; p. 58, -note 11; p. 60, note 15; and p. 477, note 3. - -[IV'-26] The Navajos, Navahos, or, as they call themselves, Tennai, -are one of the three main divisions of the southern group of -Athapascan Indians (the other two being the Lipans and the Apaches). -They have always lived, so far as is known to history, in the country -where they do now, and whence they raided in every direction before -their final subjugation in our times. They focused on the upper waters -of the Rio San Juan, in N. W. New Mexico, whence they habitually -ranged down the river in Colorado and Utah, and S. of it in Arizona. -They were thus in contact and conflict with Shoshonean tribes on the -N., and warred when they pleased with the various Apache tribes of -their own stock which were about them; they were of course a terror to -the peaceful Pueblonians, who had to hold their own as best they could -against all the battlesome savages by whom they were beset on every -hand. They were powerful, and are still one of the largest tribes with -which we have to do, like the Comanches and some of the divisions of -the Sioux. A late census returns about 17,000, nearly all on the large -Navajo reservation which occupies the contiguous N. W. corner of New -Mexico and N. E. corner of Arizona. - -An interesting account of the expedition of Colonel Doniphan and some -of his officers to the Navajos in 1846, together with the text of the -first treaty of peace concluded between them, the New Mexicans, and -Americans, at Ojo Oso (Bear spring), Nov. 22d, occupies Chaps. IX-XI -of Hughes' Don. Exp., 8vo, ed. of 1847, pp. 61-76. - -[IV'-27] The Lipans or Sipans cut no figure now in the United States, -where they are practically extinguished, though the case may be -different in Mexico. They were a numerous and roving tribe of stalwart -Indians who scoured the plains of Texas from Red r. to the Rio Grande. -They were a sort of Apaches, having their nearest affinities with the -latter, and in fact might be considered the Apaches of the plains as -distinguished from those of the mountains. They have been commonly -called Lipan Apaches, and such is no incorrect designation, though -they are rather more distinct from most bands of Apaches than these -are from one another. They extend in Mexico as far S. as Durango. A -Lipan collision which made some history, and enriched the cabinet of -S. G. Morton, the craniologist of Philadelphia, may be read in Hughes' -Don. Exped., pp. 130-132, and Wislizenus, Mem., pp. 71, 72: see also -note 5, p. 697. - -[IV'-28] There is no historic period when the Apaches were not the -scourge of the country they inhabited, down to the time when they were -brought to terms by General Crook, in his Arizona campaigns of 1872 -_seq._, and even since then their repeated escapades are matters of -recent notoriety. They always warred with other Indians, always warred -with the whites, and not seldom with one another. In Arizona -particularly, so far as we are concerned, they did more to retard the -development of the country than all other causes combined. For some -years after the Territorial government was established, it was at the -risk of life that one went out of sight of Prescott or Fort Whipple -alone or with a small party. The Apaches lurked behind every rock, and -hid in every bush; or, failing that, under cover of every three blades -of grass--a trick they did to perfection--and reddened with blood -every trail that led to the capital or the post. People were killed -and stock was run off within a few hundred paces of both these places, -and more than one pitched battle came off within ear-shot. A regular -part of my business for two years was the extraction of Apache -arrow-heads. The arrows used by the tribes nearest us were exactly -such as Pike describes, though, so far as my observation went, the -heads were all of stone, quite small and sharp, and very brittle, so -that they usually shivered when they struck a bone and the fragments -were not easily removed. They were only held in place with gum in the -shallow notch at the end of the small hardwood stick that was set in -the large reed, and thus were always left in the wound when the stick -was pulled out. It is within my certain knowledge that they were in -some cases poisoned; the common opinion was that the septic substance -was derived from a deer's liver into which a rattlesnake had been made -to inject its venom, and which was then left to putrefy in the sun; -but how this case may really be, I never ascertained to my -satisfaction. We continually hunted Apaches and killed a good many; a -particular friend of mine, Mr. Willard Rice, who saved my life on a -very ticklish occasion, when we were on a deer-hunt together without -other companions, and who is still living near Prescott, is to be -credited with at least 20 "good" (dead) Apaches--none of the score -women or children, either. But such desultory operations as we could -conduct in those years seemed to make little difference; it required -Crook's systematic campaigns, on a large scale, to render the country -inhabitable. The other side of the picture is, that the Apache has -never committed an atrocity that we have not exchanged in kind, with -the sole exception that we have probably never put a prisoner to death -by slow torture, as was the Apache custom; that the Apache has not -broken faith with us oftener than we are proud to say we have with -him, and has not robbed us of more than we would like to take from -him, if he had anything left to steal and we had an opportunity. The -secrets of Indian agencies, like those of the Roman confessional, only -leak out under great pressure. The Apaches that troubled us most in -that particular vicinity of which I speak were known or supposed to be -those of the Tonto basin, commonly called Tontos (Pinal Coyoteros). In -scientific classification the Apache tribes and sub-tribes are -numerous. The alphabetical list now recognized by high authority is: -Arivaipa, Chiricahua, Faraone, Gileno (Gilans, or Apaches of the Gila, -with four sub-tribes, Coyotero, Mimbreno, Mogollon, and Pinal Coyotero -or Tonto), Jicarilla, Lipan, Llanero, Mescalero, Naisha, Querecho, -Tchikun, Tchishi. All the Apaches within our jurisdiction have been -brought under military subjection and restraint. The largest body of -Apaches is now on the San Carlos reservation; their number is -uncertain, say 2,000, representing several different tribes. Nearly as -many more are in charge of the military at Camp Apache, in Arizona, -say 1,900, known collectively as White Mountain Apaches. About 800 -Jicarillas are on the Southern Ute Reservations in Colorado; some 500 -Mescaleros are on the reservation of that name in New Mexico; and 300 -other Apaches are on the Kiowa, Comanche, and Wichita Reservation in -Indian Territory. After a recent outbreak had been quelled 356 -prisoners were sent to Mount Vernon Barracks in Alabama. There are -about 150 children at school in Carlisle, Pa. The total of perhaps -6,000 Apaches with which we have still to deal is not large in -comparison with the numbers of some other tribes--but it is enough. - -[IV'-29] See note 13, p. 615, note 14, p. 616, note 15, p. 618; also, -note 24, p. 743. The towns here mentioned are those usually called San -Domingo, San Felipe, and Sandia--the latter being the Tanoan one Pike -elsewhere speaks of as St. Dies. - -[IV'-30] Juan de Onate, first governor of New Mexico, b. Guadalajara, -Mex., about 1555, d. after 1611. "He was a son of the founder of -Guadalajara, and was married to a granddaughter of Hernando Cortes. In -1595 his proposition to settle New Mexico was accepted by the viceroy -Velasco, and after much delay the grant was confirmed by the Count of -Monterey. Onate left Zacatecas in Jan., 1598, with 130 men besides -Indians, a large wagon- and cattle-train, etc.; reached the Rio -Grande, probably at El Paso, April 20; took formal possession April -30; crossed the river; and in Aug. founded the first capital, San Juan -(Santa Fe was founded later). After the first year he had little -trouble with the Indians. Early in 1599 he explored a part of Arizona, -and in 1604 followed the Gila river down to the Gulf of California. He -probably ceased to rule as governor in 1608." (Cent. Cyc. Names, _s. -v._) (See Nadal and Niza, in the Index.) - -[IV'-31] The province which Pike calls indifferently Biscay and New -Biscay was properly Nueva Vizcaya. It was named Reino de la Nueva -Vizcaya by Francisco de Ibarra, who invaded it about 1560-70, and -retained the name until after the independence. As a colonial division -of New Spain it had been originally called Copala, and was much more -extensive than Pike's Biscay, as it corresponded to the present states -of Sonora, Sinaloa, Chihuahua, Durango, and a southern part of -Coahuila. This region was included among the Provincias Internas in -1777, and such was its status in Pike's time; but meanwhile it had -become contracted in extent by the exclusion of Sonora and Sinaloa, so -that in Pike's time it was little if any more than equivalent to the -two present states of Chihuahua and Durango. Present Chihuahua has -Sinaloa and Durango on the S. Present Durango is surrounded by -Sinaloa, Chihuahua, Coahuila, Zacatecas, and Jalisco. - -[IV'-32] Wislizenus, Mem., p. 55, quotes this passage, and adds: "By -rubbing the hair of cats and dogs in the dark, I could elicit here a -greater mass of electricity than I had ever seen produced in this way. -Some persons, entitled to confidence, informed me that by changing -their woollen under-dress in the night, they had at first been -repeatedly frightened by seeing themselves suddenly enveloped in a -mass of electrical fire. The remarkable flames that appeared after a -thunder-storm in the mountains south of El Paso, already mentioned by -me [Mem. p. 43], were no doubt connected with electricity. I recollect -also, from an account published in relation to the battle of Buena -Vista, that during a sultry evening electrical flames were seen on the -points of the bayonets among the sentinels stationed in the -mountains." - -[IV'-33] For these, see the itinerary, Apr. 30th-May 13th, pp. -668-678, and notes there. The lakes Pike proceeds to mention are in or -on the border of present Coahuila. The situation of the Presidio del -Norte, where the Conchos discharges, is lat. 29 deg. 33' 53'' N., long. -104 deg. 36' 27'' W., by the river 346 m. above the mouth of the Pecos, -and 348 below El Paso--both of these distances much in excess of the -direct line between these points. "Batopilis" is very far out for the -source of the Conchos, unless Pike refers to some other place than the -modern Batopilas. This is situated below lat. 27 deg. N., and in the -Pacific water-shed, being on a branch of the Rio del Fuerte, which -runs from Chihuahua through Sinaloa and empties into the Gulf of -California at Point Ahome. - -[IV'-34] Before undertaking to answer this query, it would be well to -ascertain the fact. The scorpions which Pike describes are known by -the Spanish name _alacran_, and I presume are closely related to the -widely distributed _Androctonus biaculeatus_, if not the same species. -Kendall's Narrative of the Texan Expedition of 1841, pub. Lond., 1845, -II. p. 114, cites Pike in this connection, and also has: "I believe -that the city of Durango is somewhat celebrated for the beauty and -talent of its women--I know that it is noted for the numbers and -venomous qualities of its _alicrans_, or scorpions. Frequently, while -travelling through the State of Durango, were we regaled with Mexican -stories of the swarms of poisonous _alicrans_ which infest the -capital.... A bounty of some three or six cents ... is paid by the -authorities for each insect secured, and according to some of the -stories told us, no inconsiderable business is carried on in catching -and bottling the much dreaded scorpions." When Gregg was in Durango, -March, 1835, he noted that city "as being the headquarters, as it -were, of the whole scorpion family. During the spring, especially, so -much are the houses infested by these poisonous insects, that many -people are obliged to have resort to a kind of mosquito bar, in order -to keep them out of their beds at night. As an expedient to deliver -the city from this terrible pest, a society has already been formed, -which pays a reward of a _cuartilla_ (three cents) for every _alacran_ -(or scorpion) that is brought to them. Stimulated by the desire of -gain, the idle boys of the city are always on the look-out; so that, -in the course of a year, immense numbers of this public enemy are -captured and slaughtered. The body of this insect is of the bulk and -cast of a medium spider, with a jointed tail one or two inches long, -at the end of which is a sting whose wounds are so poisonous as often -to prove fatal to children, and are very painful to adults. The most -extraordinary peculiarity of these scorpions is, that they are far -less dangerous in the north than in the south, which in some manner -accounts for the story told Capt. Pike, that even those of Durango -lose most of their venom as soon as they are removed a few miles from -the city," says Gregg, very sensibly, Comm. Pra., II. 1844, p. 89. -Hughes, Doniphan Exp., p. 128: "the soldiers would sometimes shake -their blankets, toss ... the lizards and _alacrans_, exclaiming -angrily, 'd----n the scorpion family!'" - -[IV'-35] Gregg, Comm. Pra., II. 1844, p. 114, cites Pike in his own -description of Chihuahua, as it appeared to him in 1839, and the two -accounts may be here brought together. Noting the regularity of the -city in comparison with Santa Fe, the dressing of the best buildings -with hewn stone, the paving of some of the streets, and the population -of about 10,000, this author continues: - -"The most splendid edifice in Chihuahua is the principal church, which -is said to equal in architectural grandeur anything of the sort in the -republic. The steeples, of which there is one at each front corner, -rise over 100 feet above the azotea [roof]. They are composed of very -fancifully-carved columns; and in appropriate niches of the -frontispiece, which is also an elaborate piece of sculpture, are to be -seen a number of statues, as large as life, the whole forming a -complete representation of Christ and the 12 Apostles. This church was -built about a century ago, by contributions levied upon the mines -(particularly those of Santa Eulalia, 15 or 20 miles from the city), -which paid over a percentage on all the metal extracted therefrom; a -_medio_ [61/4 cents], I believe, being levied upon each _marco_ of eight -ounces. In this way, about a million of dollars was raised and -expended in some 30 years, the time employed in the construction of -the building. It is a curious fact, however, that, notwithstanding the -enormous sums of money expended in outward embellishments, there is -not a church from thence southward, perhaps, where the interior -arrangements bear such striking marks of poverty and neglect. If, -however, we are not dazzled by the sight of these costly decorations -for which the churches of Southern Mexico are so much celebrated, we -have the satisfaction of knowing that the turrets are well provided -with bells, a fact of which every person who visits Chihuahua very -soon obtains auricular demonstration. One, in particular, is so large -and sonorous that it has frequently been heard, so I am informed, at -the distance of 25 miles. - -"A little below the _Plaza Mayor_ stand the ruins (as they may be -called) of San Francisco--the mere skeleton of another great church of -hewn stone, which was commenced by the Jesuits previous to their -expulsion in 1767, but never finished. By the outlines still traceable -amid the desolation which reigns around, it would appear that the plan -of this edifice was conceived in a spirit of still greater -magnificence than the Parroquia which I have been describing. The -abounding architectural treasures that are mouldering and ready to -tumble to the ground bear sufficient evidence that the mind which had -directed its progress was at once bold, vigorous, and comprehensive. - -"This dilapidated building has since been converted into a sort of -state prison, particularly for the incarceration of distinguished -prisoners. It was here that the principals of the famous Texan Santa -Fe Expedition were confined, when they passed through the place, on -their way to the City of Mexico. This edifice has also acquired -considerable celebrity as having received within its gloomy embraces -several of the most distinguished patriots, who were taken prisoners -during the first infant struggles for Mexican independence. Among -these was the illustrious ecclesiastic, Don Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla, -who made the first declaration at the village of Dolores, September -16, 1810. He was taken prisoner in March, 1811, some time after his -total defeat at Guadalaxara; and being brought to Chihuahua, he was -shot on the 30th of July following, in a little square back of the -prison, where a plain white monument of hewn stone has been erected to -his memory. It consists of an octagon base of about 25 feet in -diameter, upon which rises a square, unornamented pyramid to the -height of about 30 feet. The monument indeed is not an unapt emblem of -the purity and simplicity of the curate's character. - -"Among the few remarkable objects which attract the attention of the -traveller is a row of columns supporting a large number of stupendous -arches which may be seen from the heights, long before approaching the -city from the north. This is an aqueduct of considerable magnitude -which conveys water from the little river of Chihuahua, to an eminence -above the town, whence it is passed through a succession of pipes to -the main public square, where it empties itself into a large stone -cistern; and by this method the city is supplied with water. This and -other public works to be met with in Chihuahua, and in the southern -cities, are glorious remnants of the prosperous times of the Spanish -empire. No improvements on so exalted a scale have ever been made -under the republican government.... -iOjala por los dias felices del -Rey!-" - -[IV'-36] Sonora then was nearly the same as the present State of that -name, but lost a northern strip (the Gadsden Purchase) to our Arizona, -and also lost its New Mexican line. For the present boundary between -it and the United States, running on lat. 31 deg. 20' N. to long. 111 deg. W., -see note 32, p. 645. In Mexico, Sonora is now bounded on the E. by -Chihuahua, on the S. by Sinaloa, and on the W. by the Gulf of -California, except the short extent to which the Colorado r. separates -it from Lower California. Area, 77,550 sq. m.; pop. 140,500; capital, -Hermosillo, pop. 7,000; principal seaport, Guaymas, pop. 5,500, -situated in lat. 27 deg. 56' N., long. 110 deg. 36' W. - -[IV'-37] The whole Sonoran water-shed is Pacific, and the river-system -runs on general S. and S. W. courses to the Gulf, in a series of -somewhat parallel streams. The northernmost one of these, of any size, -which Pike calls Ascencion r., I find lettered Rio Altar; its main -branch is Rio Magdalena; some of its ultimate sources are in Arizona, -in the country about Arivaca, Tubac, and old Fort Mason; it discharges -between George's bay and Cape Tepoca. The Sonora is much larger, with -a main branch called San Miguel; it discharges opposite Tiburon isl. -Arizpa, which Pike speaks of as near the head of the Yaqui, is high up -on the right bank of the Sonora; lower down is Hermosillo (lat. 29 deg. -10' N., long. 110 deg. 45' W.). The Yaqui is the largest Sonoran river, -falling into the Gulf below Guaymas and above Point Lobos. It has two -main forks, Rio Moctezuma and Rio Bavispe. Rio Matape, a small river, -is the one that falls in at Guaymas, and not the Yaqui. Another small -one, Rio Mayo, falls in below Vacamora and Point Rosa. Rio Alamos, -which heads in Sonora, falls over the Sinaloan boundary. - -[IV'-38] Arizpe is now a small place, with a population of probably -4,000, and is of interest chiefly to the antiquarian. The original -mission of Arizpe was already over 150 years old in Pike's time, and -the place is believed to have been an Opata village as early as 1540. -The derivation of the name is given as the Opata word _arit_, meaning -"ant." The name _Arizpe_ suggests the obvious conjecture, that the -root of the word _Arizona_, the derivation of which has been so much -mooted, may be here found. How this may be, I do not know; but -_Arizona_ does not appear to be Spanish, and certainly any such -etymology as Lat. _arida zona_, which has been adduced among others, -is fictitious. - -[IV'-39] Tubson is now Tucson, Ariz. San Cruz is Santa Cruz, also in -Arizona, on or near the branch of the Gila of that name. Tubac is -likewise now Arizonian, being a place about on long. 111 deg. W., N. W. of -Nogales, and not far from old Forts Mason and Crittenden. Altac is -Altar, on the Sonoran river of that name. "Fiuntenas" I take to be a -misprint for Fronteras, a place on one of the headwaters of the Yaqui, -about lat. 31 deg. N. Bacuachi is on one of the branches of the Sonora r., -above Arizpe. Bavista is Bavispe, a place high up on the river of that -name, close to the eastern border of the State. Horcasites, to judge -from its location on Pike's map, was on or near the Sonora r., in the -vicinity of present Ures; but I have not found the place. Near it Pike -locates a Presidio San Antonio, omitted from the text. Buenavista is a -place low down on the Yaqui r.; the present road from Punta de Agua on -Rio Matape goes through it to Batacoso, Alamos, and so on. - -[IV'-40] Sinaloa or Cinaloa is practically the same as it was, but -would be now said to be bounded by Sonora, Chihuahua, Durango, and -Jalisco; its whole S. W. length is sea-coast, on the Gulf of -California and Pacific Ocean. Area, 36,180 sq. m.; pop. 245,700; -capital, Culiacan, on the river of that name, in lat. 24 deg. 50' N., -long. 107 deg. 20' W.; pop. 8,000. The principal city and port is -Mazatlan, in lat. 23 deg. 15' 36'' N.; pop. 12,000. - -[IV'-41] Sinaloa has a long series of comparatively short rivers, with -a general S. W. trend to the sea. Rio del Fuerte (River of the Fort) -is the largest and, excepting Rio Alamos, the northernmost. The -Sinaloa is the next one of any size; on this is Sinaloa, in Pike's -time the capital, but not now a place of special importance. Further -S. come successively, Rio San Lorenzo, Rio San Miguel, Rio Piaxtla, -Rio Mazatlan, and Rio El Rosario; the latter is charted by Pike, who -empties it into the Gulf, near 23 deg., which is about right. - -[IV'-42] Coahuila, or Coahuila de Zaragoza, or Cohahuilla, or Quagila, -etc., has much the same limits now, excepting of course the -cis-Grandean portion which is now a part of Texas. On the eastern side -there is a curious peninsula or panhandle of the State, which is -wedged between two similar projections of Nuevo Leon and Tamaulipas -respectively. On the S. are San Luis Potosi as well as Zacatecas, and -on the W. the former Biscay gives Chihuahua and Durango. Area, 60,500 -sq. m.; pop. 178,000; capital, Saltillo, about lat. 25 deg. 25' N., long. -101 deg. 4' W., founded 1586; pop. 23,000. - -[IV'-43] The Rio Grande does not now cross Coahuila, but forms its -whole U. S. border on the N. W., N., and N. E. But there are a good -many rivers in Coahuila, some of them notable. 1. Prominent among -these is the whole course of the Sabinas, and of its main fork on -which is Monclova, together with their respective tributaries, down to -where the two are joined, to continue under the name of Rio Salado to -the Rio Grande; the Salado cuts across the tip end of New Leon, but -again becomes Coahuilan to the extent of separating Coahuila from -Nuevo Leon before entering Tamaulipas. The "Aqua Verde" lake which -Pike names, and which is rather centrally than westerly located, is -the Laguna de Agua Verde; which, with a neighboring one called Santa -Maria, belongs to the water-system of the Sabinas. 2. The two rivers -which flow into Lag. del Muerto and Lag. de Parras enter Coahuila. 3. -The headwaters of the Rio San Juan, on one of which Saltillo, the -capital, is situated, are in Coahuila. 4. A series of Coahuilan -streams falls into the Rio Grande at successive points from below -Presidio Salto to above Presidio San Vincento. - -[IV'-44] The tree is not the palmetto of the Southern States, _Sabal -palmetto_, but one of the large woody yuccas, of the same genus as the -small shrubby ones commonly called Spanish bayonets, from the -character of the leaves Pike notes. _Yucca treculeana_ (or -_canaliculata_) is a Mexican species sometimes 25 feet high and 2 feet -thick, thus answering to the requirements of the text. The one best -known in our country is the tree yucca, _Yucca arborescens_, very -similar to the last named. This grows abundantly in some parts of -Southern California in the valley of the Mohave r., sometimes so -thickly as to make a sort of forest. Multitudes may be seen along the -line of the Atl. and Pac. R. R. in the desert, where there is for many -miles no sign of anything else that looks like a tree. - -[IV'-45] For various places mentioned in this and the following -paragraphs, see the itinerary of May 16th to June 1st, pp. 680-689, -and notes along there. - -[IV'-46] Robert Cavelier, Le Sieur de la Salle, b. Rouen, Normandie, -France, Nov. 22d, 1643, murdered by Duhaut in conspiracy with other -assassins, in Texas, on a branch of the Trinity, or of the Brazos, -Mar. 19th or 20th, 1687, was never at the mouth of the Rio Grande. La -Salle sailed from France with four vessels and about 280 persons, July -24th, 1684; three of the vessels sighted Florida Jan. 15th, 1685; -landed at St. Louis, later St. Bernard, now Matagorda, bay, in Feb., -1685; one vessel sailed away in Mar., 1685, leaving La Salle with -about 180 adventurers or colonists. He founded Fort St. Louis at or -near present La Vaca, in Apr., 1685, giving a color of French claim -that did not entirely fade away till 1803, though the settlement -speedily aborted. The remainder of 1685 and the year 1686 were mainly -passed in fruitless wanderings and warrings in different directions, -with misery and disaster at every turn. La Salle's people dwindled -down to about 20 who were left at the fort, and 17 who started with -their leader, Jan. 7th, 1687, overland to Canada. This _verloren hoop_ -included: La Salle; Father Jean Cavelier, his brother; their two -nephews, Moranget and Cavelier; Sieur de Maria, Friar Anastase Douay, -who afterward wrote of the journey, a witness of La Salle's death; -Joutel, a trusty soldier, whose account (pub. 1713) is to be preferred -to Douay's when the two differ; Teissier, a pilot, one of the -conspirators; Liotot, the surgeon, ditto; Hiens, a German -ex-buccanier, ditto; Duhaut, the actual assassin; Jean Archeveque, his -servant and accomplice; Saget, La Salle's servant; Nika, a Shawanoe -hunter; another Indian, and some other persons. This party had crossed -the Colorado and Brazos Mar. 15th, 1687. After a quarrel which arose -over some buffalo meat, in a detached party who were 6 m. away from La -Salle, Duhaut, Liotot, Hiens, and others conspired to kill Moranget; -Liotot brained him; Saget and Nika were also then and there killed. La -Salle left Joutel and others in their own camp and proceeded to the -scene of this tragedy, accompanied only by Father Douay, and an -Indian, Mar. 19th or 20th. On his approach, Duhaut shot him in the -head from ambush; Liotot and others mocked and buffeted his corpse. -Some time in May Duhaut was murdered by Hiens; at the same time Liotot -was murdered by one Ruter. Some survivors of this bloody expedition -reached Poste aux Arkansas in July. The colony left at Fort St. Louis -had been utterly extirpated by Indian massacre and dispersion of the -few survivors, before Apr. 22d, 1689, when the spot, void of all but -the dead there buried, was visited by a Spanish party under Don Alonzo -de Leon. See note 21, p. 560. - -[IV'-47] For the several rivers about to be treated here, see the -itinerary, June 7th-29th, and notes there. - -[IV'-48] This description of the Nachez, Angelina, and Toyac (Atoyac) -rivers agrees with the map, and with the misapprehension under which -Pike labored. As already indicated, note 18, p. 710, the three are -branches of one, which falls into the Gulf in the same bay with the -Sabine; but Pike cuts off the Nachez and Angelina from the Toyac and -turns them into the Trinity as branches of the latter, thus leaving -the Toyac alone to pursue the course all three should have taken -together. - -[IV'-49] The reboso, with which the women muffle their faces, in a -characteristic manner perhaps traceable back to the Moors, or to the -wives of the prophet himself, is as indispensable an article of attire -as a fan. The Spaniards have a phrase _de reboso_, equivalent to the -Italian _in petto_, Latin _sub rosa_, to indicate secrecy, intrigue, -and the like. The reboso varies much in size, shape, color, texture, -price, and other qualities; and, according to one distinguished -author, it has various uses: "The church was crowded with women of all -conditions, and the horrid _reboso_, which the poor use for shawl, -bonnet, handkerchief, and spit-box, sent out an odor which the incense -from the altar failed to stifle," says Emory, Ex. Doc. 41, 30th Cong., -1st Sess., 1848, p. 41. Some say that the large mobile lips of Mexican -senoras acquire their osculatory capacity by the habitual use of those -features in gesticulation as well as articulation; their hands and -arms being kept bundled up with their heads in that comprehensive -article of attire, they are obliged to use their lips for pointers. - -[IV'-50] Humboldt, in his Personal Narrative, etc., p. xxii of the -Philada. ed. of 1815, takes express exception to these statistics, in -the following terms: "The numerous statistical data, which Mr. Pike -has collected in a country of the language of which he was ignorant, -are for the greater part very inaccurate. According to this author the -mint of Mexico coins every year 50 millions of piastres in silver, and -14 millions in gold; while it is proved by the tables annually printed -by order of the Court, and published in the Political Essay [of -Humboldt and Bonpland], that, the year in which the produce of the -mines was the most abundant, the coinage amounted only to 25,806,074 -piastres in silver, and to 1,359,814 piastres in gold." - -[IV'-51] Bernardo Galvez y Gallardo, viceroy of Mexico from June 16th, -1785, until his death at Tacubaya, Nov. 30th, 1786. He was b. at -Marcharavieja July 23d, 1746, was son of Mathias de Galvez, and had a -very eminent career as soldier and statesman. - - - - -CHAPTER V. - -CORRESPONDENCE.[V'-1] - - -_Art. 1. Letter, Pike to Allencaster._ (_Orig. No. 8, pp. 69, 70._) - -[TRANSLATION.] - - SANTA FE, March 3d, 1807. - -SIR: - -On the arrival of your troops at my encampment, last month, under the -command of Lieutenant Don Ignacio Saltelo and Mr. Bartholomew, they -informed me that your Excellency had directed them to assure me that I -should be escorted through your dominions to the source of Red river, -as our being on the frontiers of your province gave cause to -suspicion. I conceived it more proper to comply with the request and -repair to Santa Fe, in order to explain to your Excellency any -circumstance which might appear extraordinary; but on my arrival here -I am informed by your Excellency that it is necessary for myself and -troops to pass by Chihuahua in the province of Biscay, more than 200 -leagues out of my route. I have demanded of your Excellency to know if -we are to be considered as prisoners of war. You inform me that you do -not consider us in that light. Not to embarrass your Excellency with -many demands, I only request to receive it from under your hand, in -what manner I am to consider myself, and the orders for my passing -into the country; also, whether the expense of the voyage is to be -considered as defrayed by the government of Spain or of the United -States. Excuse my language, as I am not much accustomed to writing in -French, but your Excellency's having no person who understands English -obliges me to attempt that language. - - I am, Sir, etc., - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE. - - -_Art. 2. Certificate, Allencaster to Pike._ (_Orig. No. 9, p. 70._) - -[TRANSLATION.] - - SANTA FE, March 3d, 1807. - -The first lieutenant of the Anglo-American troops, of the name of Z. -Montgomery Pike, with the party of soldiers under his command, having -been met with by the troops under my orders, at four days' journey -from the seat of government, in this province, which is under my -charge, he was required personally to appear, which he voluntarily -did; and, complying with the orders of the commanding-general of these -internal provinces, I bade the said lieutenant proceed on his march, -with his party, equipped with horses, provisions, and equipage, under -the charge of an officer and 60 men of our troops, with orders to -introduce him to the said commanding-general in the town of Chihuahua. - -I permitted said party to carry their arms and ammunition, being -actuated by proper consideration, and in order to grant said -Anglo-American's petition. - -I certify the foregoing contents to be accurate. - - [Signed] JOACHIN RL. ALLENCASTER. - - -_Art. 3. Letter, Pike to Allencaster._ (_Orig. No. 10, p. 71._) - - ST. FERNANDEZ, March 7th, 1807. - -SIR: - -On my arrival at this village, and meeting with Dr. Robinson, he -informed me he had acknowledged to Lieutenant Malgares to belong to my -party. As this acknowledgment, in fact, only interested himself, I am -constrained to explain to your Excellency my reasons for having denied -his connection with me. He marched from St. Louis with my detachment -as a volunteer, after having with much pain and solicitation obtained -permission from the general for that purpose. On our arrival on the -Rio del Norte, then supposed to be Red river, he left the party in -order to come to Santa Fe, with a view of obtaining information as to -trade, and collecting some debts due to persons in the Illinois. On -my being informed of his embarrassments, I conceived it would be -adding to them to acknowledge his having accompanied a military party -to the frontiers of the province, and conceived myself bound in honor -and friendship to conceal it; but his scorning any longer the disguise -he assumed has left me at liberty to make this acknowledgment to your -Excellency, which I hope will sufficiently exculpate me in the opinion -of every man of honor, and of the world, for having denied a fact when -I conceived the safety of a friend, in a foreign country, was -concerned in the event. - -The above statement will be corroborated by General Wilkinson, and he -will be reclaimed by the United States as a citizen, agreeably to our -treaties with Spain regulating the intercourse, commerce, etc., -between the two nations. - -I felt disposed to enter into an expostulation with your Excellency, -as to the deception practiced on me by the officers who came out with -your invitation to enter the province; but will omit it, and only -request that my sergeant and party may be ordered to follow with all -possible dispatch, as he has all my astronomical instruments, and -clothing, except what I now wear. - -I have found Lieutenant Malgares to be what you stated, a gentleman -and a soldier, and I sincerely wish the fortune of war may one day -enable me to show the gentlemen of the Spanish army with whom I have -had the honor of forming an acquaintance, with what gratitude I -appreciate their friendship and politeness, and none more highly than -your Excellency's. - - With sincere, etc., - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE. - - -_Art. 4. Letter, Pike to Salcedo. (Orig. No. 17, pp. 82, 83.)- - - CHIHUAHUA, April 4th, 1807. - -Sir: - -I hope your Excellency may not attribute it to presumption or a -disposition to intrude, when I address you on a subject foreign to my -official duties, and on which I can only speak as an individual; for I -should feel myself wanting in humanity, and that attention which every -man owes to his fellow-creatures in distress, should I remain silent, -more especially when those who are compatriots, and some of them -former companions, are now in a strange country, languishing out their -days far from their friends and relations, with scarcely a dawn of -hope remaining of ever again being blessed with a view of their native -homes. It is scarcely necessary to add that I allude to the -unfortunate companions of [Captain Philip] Nolan, who, having entered -the territories of his Catholic Majesty in a clandestine manner, -equally in violation of the treaties between the two governments, the -laws of the United States, and those of Spain, could not be reclaimed -or noticed by their own country. Yet, from every information I have -received on the subject, the men of the party were innocent, believing -that Nolan had passports from the Spanish governor to carry on the -traffic of horses. I pretend not to justify the many irregularities of -their conduct since [they have been] in the Spanish dominions; but -hope that these may be viewed with an eye of clemency, as the men are -most of them very illiterate, possessing scarcely any part of an -education. - -David Fero was formerly a subaltern in a company of infantry of the -United States commanded by my father at the time I served as a -volunteer, but left the service, as I have been informed, owing to -some irregularities of conduct. His having been once my companion -entitles him at present to my particular attention; yet I will here -mention to your Excellency a circumstance which may appear, if known, -in an unfavorable light, viz.: About 15 days past I was informed Fero -was in town, and that he desired to see me. I was extremely mortified -at receiving the information, as I conceived he must have left his -post in a clandestine manner; yet I could not find it in my heart to -refuse the interview, which I gave, but determined at the same time to -inform you of the circumstance, conceiving that you could not look on -it as a matter of much criminality. [Note 11, p. 660.] - -But to conclude, I have to beg of your Excellency, if it be in your -power and consistent with the line of conduct you conceive proper to -pursue, to inform me if anything can be done toward restoring these -poor fellows to their liberty, friends, and country; and in a -particular manner I intercede for Fero. If it is out of the power of -the general to grant them leave to return to the United States, I beg -to know if there be any objection to my taking letters to their -fathers, wives, etc. I should not have addressed this letter to the -general, had I not conceived the fate of those men to be at his -disposal, as he had suffered one of them to join the service of his -Catholic Majesty; neither do I request the honor of any other than a -verbal reply, as I write in the character of an individual, not as an -officer of the United States. - - I am, Sir, - With high consideration, - Your humble, obedient servant, - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE. - - His Excellency, - GENERAL NIMESIO SALCEDO. - - -_Art. 5.[V'-2] Letter, Pike to Salcedo. (Orig. No. 11, p. 72.)- - - CHIHUAHUA, April 6th, 1806 [_i. e._, 1807]. - -SIR: - -Having been for near the space of a year absent from my country, the -probability of its yet being two or three months before I arrive in -the territory of the United States, and the necessity of passing -through some hundred leagues of foreign territory, with the distressed -situation of my troops, have induced me to apply to your Excellency -for a necessary supply of money. Any arrangement which may be -conceived proper for the remuneration I will cheerfully adopt, to pay -it either to the Spanish consul at New Orleans, or the ambassador of -his Catholic Majesty at Washington. - -The sum which I conceive will answer the present purposes of myself -and troops is $1,000, for which I will give such vouchers as your -Excellency may conceive proper. - - I have the honor to assure your Excellency - of my high respect, and - to be your obedient servant, - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE. - - His Excellency, - GENERAL SALCEDO. - - -_Art. 6. Letter, Salcedo to Pike. (Orig. No. 12, p. 72.)- - -[TRANSLATION.] - - CHIHUAHUA, April 7th, 1807. - -Acceding to the solicitation you have made in your letter of -yesterday, that from the royal treasury of this place there should be -delivered you one thousand dollars, which you say are necessary for -the accommodation of the troops of the United States of America which -you have under your charge, or whatsoever other sum you choose to -demand, and that the government of the said United States shall -refund the said sum to the Senor Marquis de Cassa Yrujo, I have -directed the formula of four corresponding and quadruplicate receipts -for you to sign. - - God preserve you many years. - [Signed] NIMESIO SALCEDO. - - For the 1st Lieutenant, - MONTGOMERY PIKE. - - -_Art. 7. Letter, Salcedo to Wilkinson. (Orig. No. 19, pp. 86, 87.)- - -[Translation.] - - CHIHUAHUA, April 8th, 1807. - -EXCELLENT SIR: - -On the 16th of February last, John Robinson appeared before the -governor of New Mexico, saying that he was a Frenchman, an inhabitant -of St. Louis, which place he left on the 15th of June last year, with -the view of going to the country of the Pananas [Pawnees], to make -recoveries [of certain debts]; that, having received information that -his debtors had directed their steps to said province [of New Mexico], -he had concluded to follow them, in company with 15 other persons, who -went for the purpose of hunting on the rivers of Arcs,[V'-3] Arkansaw, -and Colorado (Red river); that in the neighboring mountains of the two -last [named rivers] his company had left him, for which reason he saw -himself under the necessity of proceeding to the Yutas Indians -[Utes], to whom he exposed his situation, and who accordingly agreed -to conduct him [to Santa Fe]. - -On the 25th of the same month of February, at the distance of four -days' march from the town of Santa Fe, and nine leagues west of its -settlement, at the place called the Ojocaliente (Hot Spring), near the -confluence of Rio Grande del Norte (Great North river), and that known -under the name River [Rio] de los Conejos ([River] of Rabbits), a -detachment of the garrison of said province of New Mexico met -Montgomery Pike, first lieutenant of the infantry of the United -States, with eight men of the said infantry; who, on being given to -understand that he must be conducted to said town, consented to -accompany them. It was then settled that two of his [Pike's] men -should remain on the spot with half of his Catholic Majesty's -detachment, to wait for six others [of Pike's men] who had not yet -arrived; while he proceeded to the governor's, to whom he declared -that his being in that neighborhood was owing solely to his having -been lost, and having mistaken the Rio del Norte for the Colorado. But -this [Spanish] officer, in compliance with the orders of his superior -officer, forwarded the said first lieutenant [Pike], with the six men -of the American army and the above mentioned John Robinson, to this -capital. - -They arrived here on the 2d instant, and said officer [Pike], on being -presented to me, laid before me, in the same manner as he had done to -the governor of Santa Fe, the papers relative to his mission, the -correspondence he had carried on with your Excellency since it -commenced, his journals, and note books. - -Your Excellency is not ignorant of the repeated representations made -by the king's minister in the United States, and by the Marquis of -Cassa Calva while he was in Louisiana, summoning[V'-4] the American -government to carry into effect any projects of extending its -expeditions into territories unquestionably belonging to his Majesty. -You must therefore, without any further observations or remarks on my -part, be satisfied that the documents contain evident, unequivocal -proofs that an offense of magnitude has been committed against his -Majesty, and that every individual of this party ought to have been -considered as prisoners on the very spot. Notwithstanding such -substantial and well-grounded motives as would have warranted such a -measure, also wishing to give the widest latitude to the subsisting -system of harmony and good understanding, and, above all, being -finally persuaded that your Excellency would take such steps as your -judgment might suggest as best calculated to prevent any bad -consequences on the occasion, I have concluded to keep in this general -government all the papers presented by Lieutenant Pike, and to give -him and his men full liberty to return to your Excellency, after -having treated them with attention, and offered them every assistance -they stood in need of. - -I am, without reserve, and beyond expression, your most obedient, -humble, respectful, and faithful servant, who prayeth God may preserve -your Excellency many years. - - [Signed] SALCEDO. - - GENERAL JAMES WILKINSON. - - -_Art. 8. Inventory and Certificate, Valasco and Walker to Pike. (Orig. -No. 16, pp. 80-82.)- - -[TRANSLATION.] - -Inventory of papers which [from] the lieutenant of infantry of the -United States of America, Montgomery Pike, in the superior government, -and [by the] commandant general of the internal provinces of New -Spain, [were taken] as belonging to a voyage which he executed from -St. Louis up [of] the Illinois to the population [settlements] of New -Mexico, to visit the Indian nations, and reconnoiter the country and -intermediate rivers, as it appears his expedition was undertaken by -provision of the government of the said United States and the orders -of General Wilkinson: - -1. Letter from General Wilkinson to Pike, dated 24th June, 1806. - -2. Another from the same to Pike, 18th July, 1806. - -3. Another from the same to the same officer, 19th July, 1806. - -4. Another from the same to Pike, dated 6th August, 1806. - -5. Letter from Lieutenant Wilkinson to his father, 27th October, 1806. - -6. Another from the same to the same, 28th October, 1806. - -7. Letter from Pike to General Wilkinson, 22d July, 1806. - -8. Letter from Lieutenant Wilkinson to Lieutenant Pike, 26th October, -1806. - -9. Proclamation of General Wilkinson, prohibiting any citizen of the -United States from trading with the Indian nations without his -permission or that of the government, dated 10th July, 1805. - -10. A letter from Charles Junot, Agent for the Indians, to General -Wilkinson, dated 10th July, 1806. - -11. Notes of Lieutenant Pike on the voyage from New Mexico to -Chihuahua, of four pages. - -12. A rough manuscript [draught] of the Missouri and Osage rivers. - -13. Letter from Sergeant Ballenger to General Wilkinson, without -date. - -14. Letter from Lieutenant Wilkinson to Pike, without date. - -15. A certificate, in the French language, of a certain Baptist Lamie -[note 44, p. 388] found among those nations, specifying his motive -for being there. - -16. A bundle of papers, in the French language, which contain notes on -the harangues and manifestoes which Lieutenant Pike delivered to the -Indian nations. - -17. A passport of Lieutenant Pike to the Indian Winapicane, a captain -of the little Osage. - -18. A small draught or map of the country which is situated between -the Mississippi and Santa Fe, with a description of that town, and of -having met with 3,000 Camanches. - -19. A book, 8vo, manuscript, which contains the diary of Lieutenant -Pike, from January, 1807, to the 2d March of the same year, when he -arrived at Santa Fe, in 75 pages. - -20. A book, 4to, manuscript, in pasteboard, with copies of letters to -the secretary of war and General Wilkinson, and various observations -relative to the commission of the lieutenant, in 67 pages. - -21. A manuscript book, in folio, containing different plans of -countries, etc., with a diary with rhumbs, distances, and worked -observations and meteorological tables, which arose from a revisal of -the voyage, by the said Lieutenant Pike, in 40 pages. - -Don Francisco Valasco, first officer of the secretaries of the -commandant-generalship of the internal provinces of New Spain, and -Juan Pedro Walker Alferez,[V'-5] of the company of horse of the royal -presidio of Janos: - -We certify that the lieutenant of American infantry, Montgomery Pike, -when presented to the commandant general of the before mentioned -provinces, Don Nimesio Salcedo, likewise produced a small trunk which -he brought with him;[*] and that, in the presence of the -undersigned, [he] opened [it] himself, and took out different books -and papers; when, having separated with his own hands, under our -cognizance, all that appeared to be, or that he said was, private, or -had no connection with the voyage, [he] delivered the remainder to the -demand of the commandant general, which [papers delivered] were solely -those comprehended in the foregoing inventory which we have formed, -and for the verification of which we have signed these presents at -Chihuahua, the 8th of April, 1807. - - [Signed] FRANCISCO VALASCO. - - JUAN PEDRO WALKER. - -[*] The want of candor exhibited in the certificate is manifest. It -was an imbecile attempt to show that all my actions were voluntary, -and that in the delivery of my papers there was no degree of -constraint. [Orig. note.] - - -_Art. 9. Letter, Pike to Salcedo. (Orig. No. 14, pp. 78, 79.)- - - CHIHUAHUA, April 14th, 1807. - -SIR: - -On my marching from Santa Fe, Governor Allencaster informed me that my -papers would be considered as a sacred deposit until my arrival at -this place, when your Excellency would examine and take them into -consideration. - -When they were examined and taken possession of, I explained without -disguise the nature and contents of each, conceiving that those only -which had any relation to the object of my expedition could be -interesting, and that merely a copy of the chart and a translation of -the official papers would be taken. You must be conscious, Sir, that -it was in my power to have secreted or destroyed every trace of my -voyage and plans previous to my arrival at Chihuahua; but, resting -satisfied that no rupture had taken place between his Catholic Majesty -and the States I have the honor to serve, which would have been a -justification for the seizure of my papers, I preferred leaving them -_in statu quo_, to using that duplicity which in some degree always -implicates the character of a military man. - -Admitting the country which I explored to be contested between the -two governments, each would naturally wish to gain some information as -to its geographical situation, in order that they might each form -correct ideas as to what would be their mutual interests, founded on -justice and the honor and dignity of the nation, in forming the line -of demarcation. This was the view of the United States government in -the expedition which I had the honor to command; the loss of the -geographical sketches taken might be the occasion of a suspension of -the final line of limits, and consequently the delay of an amicable -adjustment of the differences now existing between the two -governments. - -Your Excellency may not have an intention of detaining my papers, -which I had begun to suppose from your returning only part of them by -Lieutenant Walker; in which case you will please to excuse this -intrusion. But I will add that, if you have it in view to detain the -papers, I request you will be pleased to examine them with particular -care. You will find that there are letters from General Wilkinson, as -well as his son, to me; also, from the latter to his father and -mother; and others which, being by no means of a political nature, or -at least not relative to the relations existing between the government -of Spain and the United States, therefore can by no means be -interesting to your Excellency. The book which contains my charts also -contains part of the blotters of a voyage to the source of the -Mississippi, which I presume cannot be interesting to the Spanish -government. - -But, to conclude, I have only to request of your Excellency to know if -it is your intention to detain my papers now in your possession; and -if so, that you may cause me to be furnished, or suffer me to take, a -copy of them, and that I may receive a certificate from under your -hand of the number, nature, etc., of the said papers, and the reasons -for their seizure and detention, in order that my government may be -enabled to make the proper application to the Spanish court for an -explanation. My reason for applying to your Excellency so early on -this subject is that, on the arrival of my men who are still in the -rear, I may be prepared to march in a short period of time; for, under -the present aspect of affairs, I feel conscious that I am as anxious -to arrive on the territories of the United States as your Excellency -must be for me to quit the dominions of his Catholic Majesty. - -In all events, I hope you will believe me to be, with the highest -sentiments of personal respect, - - Your most obedient servant, - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE. - - His Excellency, Brigadier-general Don Nimesio Salcedo, - Commanding-general of the Interior Provinces of the kingdom - of New Spain. - - -_Art. 10. Letter, Pike to Wilkinson. (Orig. No. 3, pp. 53-55.)- - - CHIHUAHUA, April 20th, 1807. - -MY DEAR GENERAL: - -Never did I sit down to address you with a heart so oppressed with -anxiety and mortification; but knowing the uncertainty which must -exist as to the fate of myself and party, I conceive it proper to -attempt a communication, although I think it extremely uncertain, -owing to the difficulty of the route, whether it may ever come to -hand, or at least, previous to my arrival at the territories of the -United States, owing to the various circumstances which are not to be -communicated in a letter. I was detained in the mountains of Mexico -[_i. e._, present State of Colorado] until the month of January, and -in February found myself with eight of my party only, on the head -branches of the Rio [Grande] del Norte, which I then conceived to be -the sources of the Red river, our information making the latter extend -the whole distance between the former and the Arkansaw, although its -sources are some hundred miles below either of the others. - -Here I was encountered by two officers and 100 men, who bore orders -from the governor of New Mexico to cause me and my party to march to -the capital of said province. His request was in the most polite -style, and in fact the commanding officer assured me there was not the -least constraint, but that his Excellency desired a conference, and -that I should be conducted by the most direct route to the navigable -part of the Red river, whence I could immediately descend to -Nachitoches. Although dubious of the faith of the invitation, and in a -situation where I could have defended myself as long as my provision -lasted, or until I might probably have escaped in the night; yet, -knowing the pacific intentions of our government, and the particular -instructions of my general as to my conduct in case of a rencounter -with a body of Spanish troops, I conceived it most proper to comply -with the demand and repair to Santa Fe; and, as the balance of my -party who remained in the mountains were, many of them, invalids and -not in a situation to be able to return, I conceived it most proper to -leave orders for them to follow, accompanied by an escort of Spanish -troops left for that purpose. - -On my arrival in Santa Fe, his Excellency Governor Allencaster -informed me it was necessary that I should immediately march to -Chihuahua, Province of Biscay, in order to present myself to his -Excellency, Commandant-general N. Salcedo, for further orders. This -being so different from what I had been taught to expect, I demanded -of Governor Allencaster, in a written communication, to know if I were -to consider myself and party as prisoners of war. He replied in the -negative. We marched on the following day, and arrived on the 2d -instant at this place, whence, I am informed by the general, I shall -march, on the arrival of the remainder of my party, for Nachitoches. - -I must here acknowledge myself and party under infinite obligations to -the friendship and politeness of all the Spanish officers, and in a -particular manner to the commandant-general of those provinces. - -Should the politics of our country make it necessary to augment the -army previous to my arrival, I hope the general will approve of my -aspiring to a considerable promotion in the new corps. Should the line -of demarcation be amicably adjusted between the United States and -Spain, I hope to obtain the appointment of one of the commissioners, -as I make bold to assert that, with respect to the arrangements -necessary, and knowledge of the country through which the line must -pass, I am better instructed than any other officer of my age in our -service; and, if joined to a colleague of profound astronomical -knowledge, we could surmount every difficulty. I likewise beg leave to -suggest to your Excellency that I conceive the information I hold to -be of considerable consequence in the determination of the line of -limits, and that if it be not already determined I can throw -considerable light on the subject. - -I hope your Excellency will be pleased to forward orders for me to -Nachitoches, informing me if I am to descend to [New] Orleans or -proceed to the Federal City; and if the latter, permitting me to pass -by Louisiana, in order to visit and arrange the affairs of my family, -to whom I beg the favor of my general to communicate the certainty of -the existence of myself and Dr. Robinson, who begs to be sincerely -remembered to you. - -Please to present my respectful compliments to your lady; and the -doctor's and mine to James [Lieutenant Wilkinson], who, I hope, has -long ere this arrived in safety. - -The general will pardon the requests I have made of him, knowing the -confidence of my heart in the paternal and soldierly esteem which he -has manifested for him who has the honor to be, - - With every sentiment of esteem, - Respect, and high consideration, - Dear General, - Your obedient humble servant, - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE. - - His Excellency, - GENERAL WILKINSON. - - -_Art. 11. Letter, Salcedo to Pike. (Orig. No. 15, pp. 79, 80.)- - -[TRANSLATION.] - - CHIHUAHUA, April 23d, 1807. - -Of the papers connected with the expedition which by orders of the -United States government you have made from the St. Louis of the -Illinois unto the settlements of New Mexico, and which you -yourself[*] separated from those [others] which you brought here -and put into my hands the day you arrived in this town, there have -been formed an inventory, and a certificate respecting each of them -accompanying it, to you, and in the office, the 17th current, for the -purpose therein expressed, the judgment on which remains for the -decision of the king, my lord, and shall be reported in the secret -archives of this captain-generalcy. Meditating that you have -indicated, in your official summons to this government, the greatest -desire to arrive at the territories of the United States, [I] have -resolved that you prepare to continue your voyage in two or three -days, in consequence of which the arrangements necessary shall be -made, such as you, with the people of your expedition, have -experienced until your arrival at this place. - - God preserve you many years. - [Signed] NIMESIO SALCEDO. - - MONTGOMERY PIKE, 1st Lieutenant of Infantry. - -[*] See my account of the seizure of my papers, April 1st, 1807. -[Orig. note. Read Apr. 2d, and see p. 658.] - - -_Art. 12. Letter, Wilkinson to Pike. (Orig. No. 4, pp. 55-57.)- - - NEW ORLEANS, May 20th, 1807. - -DEAR SIR: - -After having counted you among the dead, I was most agreeably -surprised to find, by a letter from General Salcedo, received a few -days since, that you were in his possession, and that he proposed -sending you, with your party, to our frontier post. I lament that you -should lose your papers, but shall rely much on your memory. Although -it was unfortunate that you should have headed Red river, and missed -the object of your enterprise, yet I promise myself that the route -over which you have passed will afford some interesting scenes, as -well to the statesman as the philosopher. - -You will hear of the scenes in which I have been engaged, and may be -informed that the traitors whose infamous designs against the -constitution and government of our country I have detected, exposed, -and destroyed, are vainly attempting to explain their own conduct by -inculpating me. Among other devices, they have asserted that your and -Lieutenant Wilkinson's enterprise was a premeditated co-operation with -[Aaron] Burr. Being on the wing for Richmond, in Virginia, to confront -the arch-traitor and his host of advocates, I have not leisure to -commune with you as amply as I could desire. Let it then suffice for -me to say to you, that of the information you have acquired, and the -observations you have made, you must be cautious, extremely cautious, -how you breathe a word; because publicity may excite a spirit of -adventure adverse to the interests of our government, or injurious to -the maturation of those plans which may hereafter be found necessary -and justifiable by the government. - -I leave Colonel Cushing[V'-6] in command of the district, with plenary -powers, and have informed him that you have leave to repair to St. -Louis by the most direct route, the moment you have communicated to me -in duplicate the result of your travels, voluntary and involuntary, -in relation to clime, country, population, arts, agriculture, routes, -distances, and military defense. The president will be impatient to -have whatever you have acquired; to the detailed account a sketch must -be added, and the original and duplicate addressed to me at the city -of Washington, with the least possible delay. You may make up your -report at Natchitoches, and proceed thence to the Wascheta [Washita] -and thence to the Arkansaw, or you may descend to Fort Adams, and -proceed thence to St. Louis by the most convenient route. Colonel -Cushing, whom I leave in command of the district, has my orders in -your favor, and will give you every indulgence; but as an expedition -is now in motion up the Arkansaw, to explore it to its source and -further northwest, it is highly important that you should, either in -person or by two or three confidential men, send forward to the -Arkansaw every information which you may deem essential to the success -of the enterprise. A Mr. Freemen [Thomas Freeman], under the chief -direction of Mr. [William] Dunbar of Natchez, has control of this -operation. The escort, which consists of 35 select non-commissioned -officers and privates, is commanded by Lieutenant Wilkinson, seconded -by Lieutenant T[homas]. A. Smith. This detachment, with two boats -suitably equipped, will reach Natchez in eight or ten days from the -present, and will proceed with all possible dispatch. You will address -your communications to Lieutenant Wilkinson, who, after many hardships -and difficulties, reached this place about the 1st of March. He has -finished a pretty good traverse of the river, and his journal is -interesting. I think the present party will winter near the Arkansaw -Osages, about 600 miles by the river from the Mississippi. - -The president mentioned you and your explorations to the source of the -great river, in his address to Congress, in handsome terms. I am -convinced he has a proper sense of your merits, and will do you ample -justice. I offer you leave to go immediately to your family, because I -apprehend it will be most desirable; yet, if you possess in your -information aught which you may desire to communicate in person, you -are at liberty to proceed, by the shortest route, to the seat of -government, near which you will find me, if alive, three or four -months hence. - -I pray you to attend particularly to the injunctions of this hasty -letter, and to believe me, whilst I am your general, - - Your friend, - [Signed] JAMES WILKINSON. - - CAPTAIN PIKE, U. S. Army. - - -_Art. 13. Letter, Pike to Wilkinson. (Orig. No. 5, pp. 57-63.)- - - NACHITOCHES, July 5th, 1807. - -DEAR GENERAL: - -Once more I address you from the land of freedom and under the banners -of our country. Your esteemed favor of the 20th of May now lies before -me, in which I recognize the sentiments of my general and friend, and -will endeavor, as far as my limited abilities permit, to do justice to -the spirit of your instructions. - -I must premise to your Excellency that my letter of the 20th of April, -dated at Chihuahua, went through a perusal by General Salcedo, -previous to his forwarding it. - -That letter stated the mode of my being brought into Santa Fe, and I -will now state to your Excellency the proceedings on the subject of my -papers. I will omit the hauteur of the reception given me by Governor -Allencaster, for a more particular communication; it changed afterward -to extreme politeness. Being under no restrictions previous to -arriving at Santa Fe, I had secreted all my papers which I conceived -it necessary to preserve, leaving my book of charts, my orders, and -such others as should induce the governor to know me in my proper -character, and prevent his suspicions being excited to a stricter -inquiry. - -On examining my commission, orders, etc., he told me to remove my -trunk to my own quarters, and that on the morrow he would converse -with me on the subject. I had caused my men to secrete my papers about -their bodies, conceiving this safer than [leaving them] in the -baggage; but in the evening, finding the ladies of Santa Fe were -treating them to wine, etc., I was apprehensive their intemperance -might discover the secret, and took them from all but one, who had my -journal in full, but who could not be found, and put them in my trunk, -conceiving that the inspection was over. But next morning an officer, -with two men, waited on me and informed me that he had come for me to -visit the governor, and brought these two men to take up my trunk. I -immediately perceived I was outgeneraled. On my arrival at the -governor's house, his Excellency demanded if I had the key. My reply -was in the affirmative; when he observed, "It is well"; my trunk -should be a sacred deposit in the charge of the officer who would -escort me to Chihuahua, for which place I marched after dinner, under -the escort of Lieutenant Don Facundo Malgares and 65 men. His -character I beg leave to introduce to the attention of your Excellency -as that of a European possessing all the high sense of honor which -formerly so evidently distinguished his nation, the commandant of the -600 troops who made the expedition to the Pawnees, an officer of -distinguished merit, who in his mode of living fully justified the -pomp and style of his actions, who outshines many of the governors of -provinces, and whom in my future reports I shall have frequent -occasion to quote. He observed to me: "The governor informs me, Sir, -your trunk is under restrictions; but your word of honor as a soldier -that no papers shall be taken out, and you have free ingress, as -usual." I gave it, and I presume it is scarcely necessary to add it -was religiously adhered to. - -On our arrival at Chihuahua the general demanded my trunk, and on its -being opened and the papers laid on the table, he took them in hand -one by one and demanded what was the purport of each, which truth -obliged me to declare; had I been disposed to equivocate, Ensign -Walker, of his Catholic Majesty's service, who stood present and -assisted in the examination, could have immediately detected the -fraud; also, his Excellency understands sufficient of the English -language to discover the general purport of any paper. - -After going through them in this manner and separating them into two -piles, he observed to me: "You will leave those papers for my -inspection, and in the meanwhile, in concert with Ensign Walker, who -will give the Spanish translation, you will give me a detailed account -of your route, views, destination, etc., during which time I will -examine the papers now before me." With this I complied, flattering -myself that it was his intention to return me my papers, by his -demanding a sketch; also, so great was my confidence in the -all-protecting name of my country, I conceived it was a greater step -than the general would venture to take, to seize on the papers. But -when I had finished the proposed sketch and presented it, and found a -still further delay, I addressed the general on the subject. After a -few days, some were returned, but I was officially informed that the -remaining papers had been seized, but would be kept in the secret -cabinet of that captain-generalship until the pleasure of his Catholic -Majesty should be known. At the same time I was presented with a -certificate specifying the number and contents of those detained, and -adding that they were assorted by my own hand, and voluntarily. This -assertion was so contrary to truth, honor, or the line of conduct a -general should have pursued with a young gentleman, that I took the -liberty of telling one of the officers who signed said certificate -that it was incorrect. But as Sergeant Meek was still in the rear with -nearly all my baggage, I took care to give him orders that none of -said baggage should be opened, except by force; which will evince -that, although I preferred acting like a gentleman to obliging General -Salcedo to resort to rough treatment, yet that it was not a volunteer -surrender of my papers. - -But the general will please to recollect that my journals were saved -at Santa Fe, were continued, and are entire to this post; for the -fortunate circumstance of the doctor's having copied my courses and -distances through all the route, except an excursion we made to the -source of the river La Platte, unto the Spanish territories, preserved -them. These will enable me to exhibit a correct chart of the route, -although not so minute as the one seized on, which was plotted daily -by the eye and angular observations. Thus the only essential papers -lost were my astronomical observations and meteorological tables, and -a book containing remarks on minerals, plants, etc., with the manners, -population, customs, etc., of the savages. But the results of the -former were in part communicated, and probably my journal may supply -part of the balance, while our memories will make the loss of the -latter of but little consequence. While in the Spanish territories I -was forbidden the use of pen and paper, notwithstanding which I kept a -journal, made meteorological observations, and took courses and -distances from the time I entered their country until my arrival at -this place; all of which I brought safe off in the men's guns, where I -finally secreted my papers without detection. - -From our unremitting attention day and night, the immense territory -they led us through, and the long time we were in their country, I -make bold to assert I have been able to collect a correct account of -their military force, regular and irregular; also, important and -interesting information on geographical situations, political -sentiments and dispositions of the people of every class, manners, -arts, resources, riches, revenues, situation, value, and productions -of their mines, etc.; also, the annual revenues paid to Bonaparte. Had -we possessed as great a knowledge of the Spanish language when we -entered the territories as when we left them, our information would -have been nearly as complete as I could wish it, if sent expressly for -the purpose of acquiring it, by the open authority of his Majesty. -But the French language, in which my communications were sometimes -made, was greatly beneficial. - -By the sergeant, who is still in the rear and was never suffered to -join me, as General Salcedo conceived he would probably procure some -information from him, which he could not if [the sergeant were] -immediately under my orders, I expect many other communications of -importance from many individuals who promised to forward them by him. -But I presume the general has found himself in error; as I perceive by -a letter from him to Governor Cordero, the sergeant killed one of -his[V'-7] men, in consequence of some improper conduct, and the -general accuses him of great intractability, as he is pleased to term -it. - -From the foregoing statement your Excellency will observe that I yet -possess immense matter, the results of one year's travel in countries, -desert and populated, which have both been long the subject of -curiosity to the philosopher, the anxious desires of the miser, and -the waking thoughts and sleeping dreams of the man of ambitious and -aspiring soul--results which, in our present critical situation, I do -conceive to be immensely important, and which open a scene for the -generosity and aggrandizement of our country, with a wide and splendid -field for harvests of honor for individuals. But my papers are in a -mutilated state, from the absolute necessity I was under to write on -small pieces in the Spanish country; also, from being injured in the -gun-barrels, some of which I filed off three times to take out the -papers. These circumstances make it necessary, in the first place, to -take a rough copy as they stand; then it will be necessary to assort -the matter, as military, political, moral, mercantile, meteorological, -agricultural, etc., all now forming an undigested mass. Then, Sir, the -combining each, the plotting, etc., would take up a time of -considerable extent for one man; and to make duplicates after they are -in order could not be done in three months. The general may recollect -it was nearly that period before my reports were completed last year, -although I was assisted by Mr. [Antoine] Nau and the sergeant-major, -and sometimes by Lieutenants [James B.] Wilkinson and [Henry Richard] -Graham.[V'-8] Also, with respect to the Spanish country, I must know -the extent of the objects in view, in order to embrace those points in -my reports; and further, my dear sir, my health is by no means the -most perfect, my eyes being so extremely weak that it is almost -impossible for me to continue for one hour with the pen in my hand, -and by that time I have a considerable pain in my breast. - -From those circumstances my general will perceive the almost -impracticability of my complying with the contents of his letter as to -duplicate reports from this place; but I shall immediately commence -the business of arranging and digesting my papers, and will proceed -with the labor with every perseverance my situation will permit until -the arrival of my sergeant and the balance of the party, should they -not be retarded more than 20 days, when I shall proceed immediately to -St. Louis, and thence through Kentucky, Virginia, etc., to the Federal -City, making no unnecessary delay, and during the whole of the route -prosecuting my business at every leisure moment. When at Washington, I -flatter myself with your assistance and advice. As I propose taking -courses, distances, etc., hence to St. Louis, it will be making the -tour of the greatest part of Louisiana, crossing the main rivers at -different points. I am certain that from the survey of the Missouri by -Captains Lewis and Clark, my own of the Mississippi, Lieutenant -Wilkinson's of the lower Arkansaw, which river I surveyed to its -sources, and Mr. Dunbar's of Red river, can be formed the completest -survey of Louisiana ever yet taken. - -As to the instruments I had with me I wish the general to inform me in -what light they stood, as most of them were ruined in the mountains by -the falling of the horses from precipices, etc., and I left an order -at Chihuahua for the sergeant to sell them at a certain price, as the -addition of a land carriage of 500 leagues would not add to their -benefit.[V'-9] Baroney, if alive, is with my sergeant; he has proved a -noble fellow in his line, and I beg liberty to recommend him to some -appointment near the Kans, should any offer. I must further add the -following anecdote of my men, in whose breasts lay the whole secret of -my papers, and whom I frequently, when in the Spanish territories, was -obliged to punish severely for outrages committed in a state of -intoxication, yet who never once offered, or showed a disposition to -discover it. It is certain they knew instant death would follow; -still, their fidelity to their trust is remarkable. I have charged -them as to communications, and shall dispose of them in such a manner -as not to put it in their power to give things much publicity. - -Dr. Robinson has accompanied me the whole route, is still with me, and -I take pleasure in acknowledging I have received important services -from him, as my companion in dangers and hardships, counselor in -difficulties, and one to whose chemical, botanical, and mineralogical -knowledge the expedition is greatly indebted--in short, Sir, he is a -young gentleman of talents, honor, and perseverance, possessing, in my -humble opinion, a military turn of mind, and would enter, I believe, -in case of an augmentation of the army, if he could obtain a rank -above a subaltern. - -I hope the general will be pleased to have my copies forwarded by -Lieutenant Wilkinson, so that I can command the use of them at -Washington; also all my letters written him during the expedition, as -they contain information I wish to refer to, and the copies were -seized. Dr. [John] Sibley has informed me that the expedition up the -Arkansaw is suspended, which supersedes the necessity of my sending -the express ordered. - -I congratulate the general on the safe arrival of Lieutenant -Wilkinson, and am sorry to hear of the difficulties he encountered. I -have been obliged to draw money of the Spanish government, which I -have to pay to their ambassador at Washington. I supported those of my -men who were with me all the time in the Spanish country. Being -separated from my baggage and never permitted to have it join me, and -having been presented to the commandant-general in a blanket -cappot,[V'-10] I was under the necessity of going to very considerable -expense to support what I considered not only my own honor, but the -dignity of our army. This, when a captain's pay is $2,400 per annum, -was a ruinous thing to my finances; but I hope it may be taken into -due consideration. - -After making myself pretty perfect in the French language, I have -obtained such a knowledge of the Spanish as to make me confident in -asserting, in three or four years I will with ease make myself -sufficiently master of the latter, Italian, and Portuguese, to read -them all, and speak and write Spanish. The doctor has even exceeded me -in that point. I mention this to the general, as I know the interest -he takes in the improvement of his military protege. - -We heard in the Spanish dominions of the convulsions of the western -country, originating in Mr. Burr's plans, and that you were -implicated; sometimes that you were arrested, sometimes superseded, -etc. Those reports, although I never credited them, gave me great -unhappiness, as I conceived that the shafts of calumny were aimed at -your fame and honor, in a foreign country where these had hitherto -stood high and been revered and respected by every class. At St. -Antonio Colonel Cordero informed me of the truth of the statement -[_i. e._, falsity of those reports], which took a load from my breast -and made me comparatively happy; I hope ere long the villainy will be -unmasked, and malignity and slander hide their heads. The before -mentioned gentleman sent you by me a box of Spanish chocolate, which I -shall forward to Colonel Cushing. Governor Herrara said the -maliciousness of the world was such as to forbid his writing, but -begged to be sincerely remembered to you. A letter addressed to me at -Cincinnatti, Ohio, may possibly reach me on my route, when I hope to -receive your approbation of my conduct. Many letters written to me, -addressed to this place, have been secreted or destroyed; possibly the -general can give me a hint on the subject. - -Those ideas have made a deep impression on my mind, and did not an -all-ruling passion sway me irresistibly to the profession of arms and -the paths of military glory, I would long since have resigned my sword -for the rural cot, where peace, health, and content would at least be -our inmates, should not our brows be crowned with laurel. - -I must now conclude, as this letter has far exceeded the bounds -proposed when commenced; but the effusions of my heart on its contents -are such that I could not limit them to a more contracted space. -Excuse my scrawl, as I am entirely out of practice, but believe me to -be, - - Dear General, - With high respect and esteem, - Your obedient servant, - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE, Captain. - - GENERAL WILKINSON. - - -_Art. 14. Letter, Pike to Salcedo. (Orig. No. 18, pp. 83-85.)- - - NATCHITOCHES, August 20th, 1807. - -SIR: - -Previous to my departure from Chihuahua, we had entered so fully into -the subject of the seizure of my papers, that I should never have made -another appeal until I made one through our government to the -ambassador of his Catholic Majesty, had I not received orders to that -effect; it not being known, at the time those instructions were given, -that the propriety of the seizure had been contested between your -Excellency and myself. But as you have now had time fully to -reconsider the business, it may not appear in the same light that it -did when I had the honor to address you before. Your Excellency may be -induced to conceive that the measure of seizing my notes, plans, -meteorological and astronomical observations, etc., for parts of the -Mississippi, Missouri, Osage, Kans, and Arkansaw rivers--waters -acknowledged by the Spanish government to be within the known -territories of the United States--may not be justifiable. Whatever may -be your opinion on those subjects, I am at an entire loss to conceive -how, and upon what principle, you could involve in that seizure -letters from individuals to individuals, the contents of which could -in no wise be interesting to the Spanish government. - -I have therefore once more to appeal to your Excellency, with the hope -that the time you have had for deliberation may induce you to conceive -it proper, and but an act of justice, to deliver up the papers seized -at Chihuahua; and hope your Excellency will have the goodness to -address them to me in a packet, to the care of the commanding officer -of this place. - -If the continuation of an amicable understanding between the two -nations be an object of estimation in the mind of your Excellency, the -final demarcation of limits must be considered as the first great step -to be taken toward its accomplishment. To enable my government to form -a correct idea on that subject, it was requisite they should be well -acquainted with the geographical situation of the heads of the -Arkansaw and Red rivers. The former part of this [requirement] I had -accomplished, and could with all ease have carried the remaining part -of that object into execution, after discovering my mistake of the Rio -del Norte for the Red river, had I been permitted by the governor of -New Mexico. Instead of which, I was hurried through the country to -Chihuahua, without having time given for the absent part of my party -and baggage to join me; by which means I was obliged to appear in a -garb and manner entirely incompatible with the rank I have the honor -to hold, and in some degree an indignity [was thus offered] to the -country whose commission I bear. To add to my mortification, I was -then deprived of the information I had obtained at the risk of our -lives, and the suffering of unknown miseries. The information -contained in my notes was not only of a geographical nature, but also -such as would enable the executive of the United States to take some -steps to ameliorate the barbarous state of various savage tribes whom -I visited; and, I may be permitted to add, would have added in some -small degree to the acquirement of science, which is for the general -benefit of mankind. - -When I left Chihuahua, I was informed that my sergeant and party were -detained near the place, in order that they should not be permitted to -join me, [and to the end] that by a separate examination they might be -intimidated to make a declaration to justify the conduct observed -toward us. This I am conscious must have failed; but I am at an entire -loss to conceive why they should have been detained until this time, -when your Excellency assured me they should follow immediately. Their -detention has been of considerable private injury to myself, and an -insult to my government. - -When I marched from Chihuahua, your Excellency officially informed me -that everything had been prepared for my transport to our lines. I was -much surprised to have to pay for the hire of horses, etc., demanded -of me at the first place where we changed our escorts, as I neither -conceived it just that I should pay for an involuntary tour I had -taken through your territories, nor was I prepared to do it; but as -your officers were responsible, and gave their receipts for the -transport, and from the orders received by Captain Viana at -Nacogdoches, I was obliged to hire beasts to take me to Natchitoches, -although an escort of your troops were furnished. [See note 2, p. -814]. - -I here with the greatest pleasure embrace the opportunity of -acknowledging the polite treatment I received from your officers in -general on my route, but in particular from Colonels Cordero and -Herrara, Captains Barelo and Viana, and Lieutenant Malgares; to all of -whom it would be my greatest pleasure to have it in my power to return -the compliment. - -Will your Excellency do me the honor to present my high respects to -your lady, and my compliments to Mr. Truxillo and Father Rocus. - - I am, Sir, - With the most profound consideration, - Your obedient servant, - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE, Captain. - - His Excellency, - GOVERNOR SALCEDO. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[V'-1] The Appendix to Pt. 3 of the orig. ed. was the most -extraordinary hotch-potch I ever saw in type--a lot of letters and -other papers bundled together in no intelligible or imaginable order. -There being no evidence of design or purpose, the first step toward -bringing an appearance of order out of this confusion must be taken by -disregarding the original helter-skelter entirely, and by rearranging -the various pieces of which this Appendix consisted as freely as if -they were loose manuscripts accidentally disordered. The documents -with which we have to do were disarranged as follows: - -No. 1. Pike's Observations on New Spain, the leading article, not -numbered, making pp. 1-51, or more than half of the whole Appendix. -(This I have disposed of in the foregoing Chap. IV.) - -No. 2, pp. 52, 53. A fragmentary vocabulary of Mississippi -place-names, having no connection with Pt. 3 of the book. (This I have -made Chap. IX., pp. 355, 356, of Pt. 1, where it belongs.) - -No. 3, pp. 53-55. A letter from Pike to Wilkinson. - -No. 4, pp. 55-57. A letter from Wilkinson to Pike. - -No. 5, pp. 57-63. A letter from Pike to Wilkinson. - -No. 6, pp. 64-68. A Congressional report, with accompanying documents, -including matter relating to all three of Pike's expeditions, yet -lacking one of the most important of the papers belonging to it (see -No. 13, below). (All these I shall relegate to the following Chap. -VI.) - -No. 7, p. 69. A mere paragraph about a priest. (This I have simply -interpolated in the text of the itinerary, Chap. II., pp. 603, -604--the place where it belongs.) - -No. 8, pp. 69, 70. A letter from Pike to Allencaster. - -No. 9, p. 70. A certificate from Allencaster to Pike. - -No. 10, p. 71. A letter from Pike to Allencaster. - -No. 11, p. 72. A letter from Pike to Salcedo. - -No. 12, p. 72. A letter from Salcedo to Pike. - -No. 13, pp. 73-77. The missing document which belongs to No. 6 (see -above), being a brief sketch of Pike's Arkansaw Expedition and of his -Mexican Tour, no date, no place, no addressee. (This, of course, goes -with No. 6, in the following Chap. VI.) - -No. 14, pp. 78, 79. A letter from Pike to Salcedo. - -No. 15, pp. 79, 80. A letter from Salcedo to Pike. - -No. 16, pp. 80-82. Inventory of papers seized by the Spanish -authorities, with accompanying certificate. - -No. 17, pp. 82, 83. A letter from Pike to Salcedo. - -No. 18, pp. 83-85. A letter from Pike to Salcedo. - -No. 19, pp. 86, 87. A letter from Salcedo to Wilkinson. - -By eliminating from the above No. 1, No. 2, No. 6, No. 7, and No. 13, -as above indicated, the residuum consists entirely of correspondence -relating to the Mexican Tour, which is easily rearranged in the -chronological order of the several letters, and thus forms the present -Chapter V. - -[V'-2] On this subject I can throw a little further light, as -reflected from some documents which I find on file in the Archives of -the War Department. The following letter is in a clerk's hand, with -Pike's signature: - - WASHINGTON CITY Feby. 10^th. 1808. - - SIR, - - Being informed that the Chevalier Don Fownda, Charge des - affaires from his Catholic Majesty to the United States, - has forwarded to your office an account of expenses said to - have occurred in consequence of my being _obliged_ to pass - thro' the internal provinces of New Spain, amounting to a - sum, exceeding 21,000 Dollars.--I have thought it proper to - state to you the following circumstances. On my being - informed by the Gov^r. at Santa fe that I should be obliged - to go to Chihuahua, I addressed a letter to him in which - amongst other topics--I demanded to be advised if myself - and troops were to be supported at the expense of the U - States or his Catholic majesty--On this subject he was - silent in his reply--but the day I marched from that city - sent me a small sum of money, which I was informed was the - subsistence money of my party to Chihuahua--at which place - I refunded said sum to an officer of the Gov^rs. - acquaintance & took his receipt for the same--at the seat - of goverment I received $1000 and gave triplicate receipts - making my goverment responsible for the same--and on the - close of my correspondence with Gen^l. Salcedo was informed - that I should be conveyed to our territories in the same - manner I had been from New Mexico to Chihuahua--That was to - find our own subsistence--but all other expences to be paid - by the Spanish officers.--I left a requisition that my - party in the rear might be allowed $2-61/4/100 per diem for - their subsistence, and as this was for the support of our - troops, when in their country, it remains to be decided by - our Gov^t, whether they will refund the money--At the first - place where I changed my escort on this side of Chihuahua, - pay was demanded for the services of the mules, and horses, - which I positively refused--but finding the officer was - embarassed, I gave him a receipt agreable to the enclosed - copy and date.--at S^t. Antonio I received $200 of - Gov^r. Cordero--whereof the account stands enclosed--but - I presume in justice no part should be allowed except the - cash advanced, and the mens subsistence--as agreable to the - Chevaliers own maxim--"_the Government which unnecessarily - produced the expenditures ought in justice to defray - them_"--. - - I have the honor to be, - Sir, - With high consideration - Your most ob^t. Serv^t. - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE Captain - 1st U States Reg^t. Infy - - The Hon^able. - JAMES MADISON, - Sec^y. Dep^t. State - -The foregoing letter has two inclosures. One is the following form of -account: - - "U. States to - the Spanish Govt.-- - - Dr. - - 7th. April 1807. To cash furnished on receipt to - Cap: Pike at Chihuahua, $1000 - - 11th. June, 07. To cash furnished Cap: Pike at S^t. - Antonio, on receipt, 200 - - To a requisition for subsistence of my party in the - rear at $2-61/4/100 from ---- to ---- - - [*]To amount of five receipts worded - in substance as below--not exceeding 250 - ----- - $ - ===== - [*] ---- 07. - - - I acknowledged to have been furnished by ---- with ---- - mules ---- horses for the transport of my party and baggage - from ---- to ---- The hire of said beasts to be hereafter - adjusted between the Gov^t. of the U. States and that of - his Cath. Majesty-- - - "(Signed) Z. PIKE. - - "N. B. The whole of those charges (the latter of which I by - no means conceive the U States under any just obligation to - discharge) cannot if my men have recently left the country, - amount to more than $2000. 1200 of which I only pledged the - faith of the Gov^t. for--Pike" - -The other one of the two inclosures is the following memorandum or -indorsement of the State Department: - - "The account against Pike inadmissible save the $1200 - advanced him in Cash--and what may have been advanced to - his men left in Mexico at the rate of $2-61/4/100 p. - day--the Sum he asked for their subsistence--It appears to - have been understood by Capt Pike that he was to find - subsistence for himself & Party and that the Spanish Govert - would meet the other expences of his Journey." - -[V'-3] Riviere au Bois d'Arc of the French, as we should say Bodark, -Bowdark, or Bowwood r., meaning the Osage. The reference is to the -bois d'arc or bowwood, the Osage orange, _Maclura aurantiaca_, a -well-known tree of the lower Mississippi valley, whose wood was -formerly in great request for the purpose indicated in the vernacular -name. It is very thorny, bears pruning well, and has come to be much -cultivated for hedges. Its botanical affinities are with the mulberry. - -[V'-4] The meaning of the clause is clear, though it may not be -obvious on its face, owing to the use of "summoning" in a particular -sense: compare Pike's use of "summons" in Art. 11, p. 825. Agreeably -with etymology, "summoning" might be written _submonition_, on the -model of _admonition_; the radical meaning of these two words is much -the same, both conveying the idea of warning, with the implied force -of enjoining, restraining, etc. Salcedo simply reminds Wilkinson that -the Spanish government had warned the United States off those -premises, and consequently that the latter should not have carried -into effect any projects of, etc. - -[V'-5] _Sic_--but "Alferez" is not a part of Walker's name, being his -rank in the Mexican cavalry: read "Walker, ensign of," etc. - -[V'-6] Thomas Humphrey Cushing of Massachusetts, a captain in the -Continental Army, became a captain of the 2d Infantry, Mar. 4th, 1791; -he was arranged to the second sub-Legion Sept. 4th, 1792; promoted to -be a major in the first sub-Legion Mar. 3d, 1793, and assigned to the -1st Infantry Nov. 1st, 1796; he acted as inspector of the army from -Feb. 27th, 1797, to May 22d, 1798, and became lieutenant-colonel of -the 2d Infantry April 1st, 1802; he acted as adjutant and -inspector-general from Mar. 26th, 1802, to May 9th, 1807, was promoted -to the colonelcy of the 2d Infantry Sept. 7th, 1805, to a -brigadier-generalship July 2d, 1812, and honorably discharged June -15th, 1815; he died Oct. 19th, 1822. - -[V'-7] It will be observed that Pike's syntax leaves the personal -pronoun equivocal. We naturally read that Sergeant Meek killed one of -his own men, _i. e._, a man of Pike's party; and I have been more than -once summonsed, during my editorial function, to say who this man was. -But there is no record that I can discover, and no other intimation -than the above ambiguous clause, that any man of Pike's or Meek's -party was killed by Meek. On the contrary, Pike's final word about his -men accounts for every one of them: see p. 855, and note there. In the -absence of any further evidence, we must understand that Sergeant Meek -killed one of General Salcedo's men; and if so, might easily be -accused of "great intractability." - -[V'-8] Of Virginia, appointed from Kentucky a second lieutenant of the -3d Infantry Feb. 16th, 1801, and transferred to the 2d Infantry Apr. -1st, 1802; became a first lieutenant of the same Dec. 20th, 1803, and -resigned Jan. 31st, 1808; was made a captain of the first Rifles Mar. -8th, 1809, and appointed major Aug. 12th, 1814, but the appointment -was negatived by the Senate Dec. 10th, 1814; he was honorably -discharged June 15th, 1815, and died in 1819. - -[V'-9] That is, Captain Pike wishes to know how he is to account for -instruments which were damaged, or which he had ordered to be sold, to -prevent further injury on a long march. - -[V'-10] That is, F. _capote_, some sort of surtout, overcoat, or -cloak, constantly confounded with F. _capot_, meaning hood. Among the -Canadian voyageurs and other French in America, _capote_ was the most -general name of any such outer garment. It constantly occurs, for -example, in annals of the fur-trade of the Northwest, capotes being -made of several regulation sizes and styles, for barter with the -Indians, as well as for wear of the men of the N. W. Company. - - - - -CHAPTER VI. - -CONGRESSIONAL REPORT AND ACCOMPANYING DOCUMENTS.[VI'-1] - - --(Orig. No. 6, pp. 64-68, and No. 13, pp. 73-77.)- - - _The committee of the House of Representatives of the - Congress of the United States, to whom was referred the - resolution to inquire whether any, and if any, what - compensation ought to be made to Captain Zebulon M. Pike, - and his companions, for their services in exploring the - Mississippi river, in their late expedition to the sources - of the Osage, Arkansaw and La Platte rivers, and in their - tour through New Spain, report:- - -That it appears by the documents accompanying this report, that the -objects of each of the exploring expeditions, together with the -instructions for executing them, were communicated to and approved by -the president of the United States; that the conduct of Captain Pike, -in each of the expeditions, also met with the approbation of the -president, and that the information obtained and communicated to the -executive on the subjects of his instructions, and particularly in -relation to the source of the Mississippi and the natives in that -quarter, and the country generally, as well on the Upper Mississippi -as that between the Arkansaw and the Missouri, and on the borders of -the latter extensive river to its source, and the country adjacent, is -highly interesting in a political, geographical, and historical view; -and that although no special encouragement was given to the -individuals who performed these laborious and dangerous expeditions, -yet it was but reasonable for them, should they fortunately succeed in -the objects, to expect some reward from government; that the zeal, -perseverance, and intelligence of Captain Pike, as commander, have -been meritorious, and the conduct of the individuals generally who -composed the parties respectively, has been faithful, and the -exertions arduous. The committee therefore are of opinion that -compensation ought to be made by law to Captain Pike and his -companions. - - -[ACCOMPANYING DOCUMENTS.] - - - WAR DEPARTMENT, Dec. 7th, 1808. - -SIR: - -I herewith inclose copies of the instructions to Lieutenant Pike, for -the government of his conduct on the two exploring expeditions alluded -to in your letter; and likewise lists of the names of the men -composing those parties. You will perceive that the instructions were -given by General Wilkinson; the objects, however, of each party, -together with the instructions, were communicated to and approved by -the president of the United States. - -Although no special encouragement was given to the individuals who -performed these laborious and dangerous expeditions, yet it was but -reasonable for them, should they fortunately succeed in their objects, -to expect a liberal reward from the government; and as there can be no -reasonable doubt of the zeal, perseverance, and intelligence of the -commander, or of the faithful conduct and arduous exertions of the -individuals generally, composing the respective parties, it may, I -trust, be presumed that no objection will be opposed to a reasonable -compensation for such meritorious services. - - I am very respectfully, Sir, - Your obedient servant, - H. DEARBORN. - [Secretary at War.] - - HON. J. MONTGOMERY, Chairman, etc. - - * * * * * - - HEADQUARTERS, St. Louis, July 30th, 1805. - -SIR: - -Having completed your equipments, you are to proceed up the -Mississippi with all possible diligence, taking the following -instructions for your general government, which are to yield to your -discretion in all cases of exigency. - -You will please to take the course of the river, and calculate -distances by time, noting rivers, creeks, highlands, prairies, -islands, rapids, shoals, mines, quarries, timber, water, soil, Indian -villages and settlements, in a diary, to comprehend reflections on the -winds and weather. - -It is interesting to government to be informed of the population and -residence of the several Indian nations, of the quantity and species -of skins and furs they barter per annum, and their relative price to -goods; of the tracts of country on which they generally make their -hunts, and the people with whom they trade. - -You will be pleased to examine strictly for an intermediate point, -between this place and the Prairie des Chiens, suitable for a military -post, and also on the Ouiscousing, near its mouth, for a similar -establishment; and will obtain the consent of the Indians for their -erection, informing them that they are intended to increase their -trade and ameliorate their condition. - -You will proceed to ascend the main branch of the river until you -reach the source of it, or the season may forbid your further progress -without endangering your return before the waters are frozen up. - -You will endeavor to ascertain the latitude of the most remarkable -places in your route, with the extent of the navigation and the -direction of the different rivers which fall into the Mississippi, and -you will not fail to procure specimens of whatever you may find -curious, in the mineral, vegetable, or animal kingdoms, to be rendered -at this place. - -In your course you are to spare no pains to conciliate the Indians and -to attach them to the United States, and you may invite the great -chiefs of such distant nations as have not been at this place, to pay -me a visit. - -Your own good sense will regulate the consumption of your provisions, -and direct the distribution of the trifling presents which you may -carry with you, particularly your flags. - -I wish you a speedy, pleasant, and safe tour, and am, Sir, with -sentiments of respect and esteem, - - Your obedient servant, - [Signed] JAMES WILKINSON. - -P. S. In addition to the preceding orders, you will be pleased to -obtain permission from the Indians who claim the ground, for the -erection of military posts and trading-houses at the mouth of the -river St. Pierre, the falls of St. Anthony, and every other critical -point which may fall under your observation; these permissions to be -granted in formal conferences, regularly recorded, and the ground -marked off. - - [Signed] J. W. - - LIEUTENANT Z. M. PIKE, - 1st Regt. Infantry. - - * * * * * - - WAR DEPARTMENT, Feb. 24th, 1808. - -SIR: - -In answer to your letter of the 22d instant, I can with pleasure -observe, that although the two exploring expeditions you have -performed were not previously ordered by the president of the United -States, there were frequent communications on the subject of each -between General Wilkinson and this department, of which the president -of the United States was from time to time acquainted; and it will be -no more than what justice requires to say that your conduct, in each -of those expeditions, met the approbation of the president; and that -the information you obtained and communicated to the executive, in -relation to the source of the Mississippi and the natives in that -quarter, and the country generally, as well on the Upper Mississippi -as that between the Arkansaw and the Missouri, and on the borders of -the latter extensive river to its source and the country adjacent, has -been considered highly interesting in a political, geographical, and -historical view. And you may rest assured that your services are held -in high estimation by the president of the United States; and if any -opinion of my own can afford you any satisfaction, I very frankly -declare that I consider the public much indebted to you for the -enterprising, persevering, and judicious manner in which you have -performed them. - - I am, very respectfully, Sir, - Your obedient servant, - [Signed] H. DEARBORN. - [Secretary at War.] - - CAPTAIN ZEBULON M. PIKE. - - * * * * * - -_Sketch of an Expedition made from St. Louis, to explore the internal -parts of Louisiana, by order of his Excellency, General James -Wilkinson. (Orig. No. 13, pp. 73-77.)- - -I embarked at Belle Fontaine, on the Missouri, near its confluence -with the Mississippi, with a command of one lieutenant, one doctor (a -volunteer), two sergeants, one corporal, 17 [16] privates, and one -interpreter;[VI'-2] having under my charge eight or ten Osage chiefs -who had recently returned from a visit to the city of Washington, -together with about 40 men, women, and children of the same nation, -redeemed from captivity from another Indian nation; and two Pawnees -who had likewise been to the city of Washington [making a total of 51 -Indians]. - -We ascended the Missouri river to the river of the Osage, up which we -ascended to the Osage towns, and arrived on or about the 18th of -August [p. 385], and delivered to their nation in safety their chiefs, -women, and children, with speeches to the nation. - -Here I remained making astronomical observations, and preparing for my -march by land, until the 1st of September, when we took our departure -for the Pawnee Republic, accompanied by some Osage chiefs, who were -deputed by their nation to form a treaty of peace and amity with the -nation of the Kans with whom they were then at war, under the auspices -of the United States. I arrived at the Pawnee Republic about the 25th -of said month [p. 409], where I caused to be held a conference between -the Osage and Kans chiefs, and mediated a peace for the two nations. -Having held councils with the Pawnees, made astronomical observations, -etc., I marched from the said village on the 7th of October, and -arrived at the Arkansaw on the 11th [read 15th] of said month, where -we remained until the 28th, preparing canoes, etc., for Lieutenant -Wilkinson, who descended the said river, with one sergeant, six men, -and two Osage Indians.[VI'-3] During my stay at said river, I likewise -made astronomical observations. - -On the said day I marched with the remainder of the party up the -Arkansaw. Nothing occurred worthy of note until about the middle [on -the 22d] of November, when we met a party of Pawnees, of 60 warriors, -who were returning from an expedition against the Kayaways. At first -our conference was of the most friendly nature, and I made them some -small presents; but as they commenced to steal and plunder whatever -they could with impunity, we were finally obliged to take to our arms, -and were on the point of coming to hostilities, when the Pawnees -retired, and we pursued our march. - -We arrived where the Arkansaw enters the mountains, on the 4th or 5th -[5th] of December, where we remained until the 9th [10th], searching -for the route across the mountains, when we marched by a trace which -we discovered, leaving the main Arkansaw to our left. Much to our -astonishment we arrived about the middle of said month [Dec. 13th] on -a water of the Missouri, which I ascertained to be the [South fork of -the] river Platte, on which we discovered signs of immense numbers of -Indians. Here we remained a few days searching for those Indians, in -hopes to obtain from them information as to a route to cross the -mountains to the west; but not discovering any, we crossed a large -chain [Park range] by a practicable route [Trout Creek pass] and fell -on a large branch of water which I then conceived to be the head of -the Red river [but which was the Arkansaw]. Here we remained a few -days [till Dec. 21st] to recruit our horses and ourselves, when I -ordered the party to proceed down said river, and I with two men -ascended it [nearly] to its source, where I made some observations. I -then returned and overtook the party, when we continued to descend -said stream, until the perpendicularity of the rocks [of the Grand -Canyon of the Arkansaw] and other difficulties rendered it impossible -to proceed any further with horses, several of which had already been -killed by falling from the rocks, etc. - -I then caused sleds to be constructed, and soldiers to draw the -baggage on the ice, and ordered a few men to endeavor to conduct the -horses by a more eligible route out of the mountains; at the extremity -of which we all arrived by the 9th of January, and found that we had -descended the main branch of the Arkansaw, conceiving it to be the Red -river, and were again at the same point [Canyon City] we had left on -the 9th [10th] ult. - -My remaining horses not being in a situation to allow me to hope for -any further assistance from them, unless permitted further to recover, -and as this would have engrossed a long time, I determined to leave -some men with the horses and part of the baggage, and proceed with the -remainder and the articles absolutely necessary, on foot. On the 14th -of January, having constructed a small place for my men and baggage -who remained, we marched, proceeding up a western branch [Grape creek] -of the Arkansaw, which appeared to lead in a direct route through the -mountains. On the 20th of said month, being obliged to cross a prairie -[Wet Mountain valley] of some leagues in breadth, late in the evening, -and many of the soldiers having their feet wet, we had it not in our -power to make fire until eight or nine o'clock at night. We were so -unfortunate as to ascertain that nine of the party were frozen. The -ensuing day, discovering that they were not all able to march, we -remained a few days to lay in provisions. Here I left two soldiers and -four loads of our baggage, and proceeded on our march; but on the -third day, finding another of my men not able to march, I was obliged -to leave him encamped, having previously furnished him with sufficient -provision. We then crossed another chain [Sangre de Cristo] of -mountains, and on the 1st of February [31st of January] arrived on the -waters of the Rio del Norte, which I then conceived to be the Red -river, as some maps which I held portrayed the source of the Red river -to lie between those of the Arkansaw and Rio del Norte. I then -proceeded to choose a station [on the Rio Conejos] where there was -sufficient wood to form canoes or rafts, in order to descend the -supposed [Red] river to Natchitoches. - -Having in many instances experienced the insolence and presuming -dispositions of the Indians, when in superior numbers, I conceived it -proper to throw up a small work for the protection of ourselves and -baggage, until we should be prepared to descend the river. - -Four or five days [seven] after I dispatched five men to return to -those I had left in the mountains, and bring them on, if capable of -marching; if not, to supply them with provision and bring on the -baggage. Dr. Robinson, who had hitherto accompanied me as a volunteer, -having some pecuniary demands in the province of New Mexico, conceived -that this would be the nearest point from which he could go in and -probably return, previous to my being prepared to descend the river. -He left me on the 7th of February with that view. - -A few days after [on Feb. 16th], hunting with one of my men, I -discovered two men on horseback. I would have avoided them, agreeably -to my orders; but, finding they continued to pursue us, I conceived it -most proper to bring them to a conference. This, with great -difficulty, I effected, as they appeared to be apprehensive that my -intentions were hostile toward them. I conducted them to my camp, -informed them of my intention to descend the river, and made them some -small presents. Had they then informed me of my being on the Rio del -Norte, I should have immediately retired; but, having executed their -commission, they returned the following day on the immediate route to -the [Spanish] settlements. The following day [Feb. 17th] the party I -had detached for the men whom I had been compelled to leave in the -mountains, returned with one only, and all the baggage, the other two -not being able to come on. I then immediately [Feb. 19th] dispatched -my sergeant and one man, to order and conduct on the men, horses, and -baggage left on the Arkansaw, by a route which I conceived -practicable. - -On the 24th or 25th [26th] of February, in the morning, two Frenchmen -arrived at my camp, and informed me that an officer and 50 men of his -Catholic Majesty's troops had marched from Santa Fe, in order to -protect me from the Utahs, who had exhibited a disposition to attack -me, and would probably be at my camp in two or three days. In the -course of two or three hours, I was informed by a sentinel, whom I -always kept on a hill, of the approach of a party of strangers; and in -a short period there arrived two officers and 100 men, at a small -distance from the camp. The lieutenant commandant, having entered my -works by my invitation, informed me that the governor of New Mexico -had been informed of my situation; and, understanding I was bound for -Red river, offered me any assistance which lay in his power to -accommodate me. I replied that I stood in no need of assistance; that -I could descend the river with craft which I proposed constructing. He -then informed me I was on the Rio del Norte, which astonished me -extremely, and that the source of the Red river was eight days' march -below Santa Fe; and that the governor, being informed that I had -missed my route, offered mules, horses, etc., to conduct me to the Red -river, and wished to see me at his seat of government. I told him that -if the whole of my party were here, I would not hesitate to pay my -respects to his Excellency, with one or two men. He then assured me -that there was not the least constraint; that I could go in before or -after the arrival of my party, as my inclination dictated; that if I -went in now he would leave an Utah interpreter and one man, with the -men of my party I chose to leave, in order to conduct the sergeant and -party when they arrived. I finally concluded it would be more -consistent with the good understanding which existed between the -government of the United States and his Catholic Majesty, to proceed -to Santa Fe, and give to Governor Allencaster an explanation of my -being on his frontiers. We then marched for his [the Spanish -lieutenant's] camp, about 12 miles distant, leaving the [Utah] -interpreter, one Spanish soldier, a corporal [Jackson] and one private -[Carter] of my detachment, with orders for the conduct of my sergeant -[Meek] when he should arrive. - -The next day I was much surprised to find that the lieutenant and all -the regular troops, except 10, were to remain, and that the militia -officer was to conduct me to Santa Fe; the lieutenant giving as a -reason the particular orders to see all my party in safety at the -capital. We arrived at the town in four or five days [Mar. 3d], where -I was received at first in a manner very different from what I had -been taught to expect from the proffers of the lieutenant in the name -of the governor. The arms of my men being taken possession of by the -guard the first night of my arrival, without my knowledge, and my -being likewise informed that Dr. Robinson was a prisoner at some -leagues' distance, they induced me to believe that a rupture had taken -place between Spain and the United States, and to address a letter to -the governor, demanding if I was to consider myself and party as -prisoners of war, and if the expense arising from the detention of -myself and party was to be defrayed by the United States or his -Catholic Majesty. To this his Excellency gave me a very polite verbal -answer, assuring me that I was by no means to consider myself as a -prisoner; that the arms of my men were taken unknown to him, and -should be immediately restored; but that it was necessary I should -march immediately to join Lieutenant Malgares and party, who were -waiting for me at the village of St. Fernandez, in order to conduct me -to Chihuahua, to be presented to the commandant-general with my papers -for an explanation. On my arriving at said village, I addressed a -letter to the governor, informing him that Dr. Robinson had -accompanied my party as a volunteer. This I had not acknowledged at -Santa Fe, as I was apprehensive that his coming on to the frontiers of -the province with a military party, in case of a rupture between the -two governments, might place him in a critical position.[VI'-4] - -The lieutenant [Pike] only further observes that he has not entered -into the particulars of the hardships undergone, such as enduring -thirst or famine for three or four days, at different periods; -marching over rugged mountains, through snows three or four feet deep, -exposed to every inclemency of the weather for want of clothes, -carrying at the same time packs of 60 or 70 pounds' burden--in short, -every hardship to which a savage life in its greatest state of -barbarity is exposed. These are circumstances only calculated to -excite humanity, and not to give explanation as to the general chain -of events connected with the voyage. He therefore refers his -Excellency [President Jefferson] to the commander-in-chief of the -United States army, for an explanation of the general intent and -nature of the expedition, and to his notes, astronomical observations, -and charts, for the courses, situations, etc., of the different points -and rivers alluded to in the foregoing sketch. - - * * * * * - -_Return of persons employed on a tour of discovery and exploration to -the source of the Mississippi, in the years 1805 and 1806 [and to the -source of the Arkansaw in the years 1806 and 1807]._ - -Lieutenant Z. M. Pike; Interpreter Pierre Rosseau; Sergeant Henry -Kennerman; Corporal William E. Meek; Corporal Samuel Bradley. - -Privates John Boley; Peter Branden; John Brown; Jacob Carter; Thomas -Dougherty; William Gorden; Solomon Huddleston; Jeremiah [R.] Jackson; -Hugh Menaugh; Theodore Miller; John Mountjoy; David Owings; Alexander -Roy; Patrick Smith; John Sparks; Freegift Stoute; David Whelply. - -This party left St. Louis the 9th of August, 1805, but had been -detached for that duty from the 1st of July. They returned the 30th of -April, 1806. - -From this time until the 15th of July, I was preparing for the second -expedition, to the westward, which consisted of the following persons, -to wit: - -Captain Z. M. Pike; Lieutenant James B. Wilkinson*; Dr. John H. -Robinson; Interpreter Baroney Vasquez+; Sergeant Joseph -Ballenger*; Sergeant William E. Meek+; Corporal Jeremiah [R.] -Jackson+. - -Privates John Boley*; Samuel Bradley*; John Brown; Jacob -Carter+; Thomas Dougherty+; William Gorden; Solomon Huddleston;* -Henry Kennerman [deserted]; Hugh Menaugh; Theodore Miller+; John -Mountjoy+; Alexander Roy; Patrick Smith+; John Sparks+; Freegift -Stoute; John Wilson*. - -* Those thus marked descended the Arkansaw river, and arrived at New -Orleans some time about the ---- of February, 1807. - -+ Those thus marked are still detained in New Spain.[VI'-5] - -The balance [except Kennerman] arrived at the Nachitoches on or about -the 1st of July, 1807. But it may probably be better to leave the -whole time undefined, to be regulated by the honorable secretary of -war. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[VI'-1] This chapter, which appears to be a number of disjointed -pieces, whose connection is not obvious, is really all of a part, -being a certain Congressional matter. It is easily traced to its -source in American State Papers, as the set of documents which Pike -brought to bear on Congress for legislative action in his case, when -he was trying to secure some appropriation to recompense himself and -his companions for what they had undergone and accomplished during his -two expeditions. Barring the way in which it was botched in this book, -Nos. 6 and 13 are substantially the same as Doc. No. 259 of the 2d -Session of the 10th Congress, being the report of a committee laid -before the Ho. Reps. Dec. 16th, 1808, with accompanying papers, and as -such will be found printed in American State Papers, folio, -Washington, Gales and Seaton, 1834, pp. 942-944. The same volume -contains, on p. 719, Doc. No. 248 of the 1st Session of the 10th -Congress, being a previous report of a committee, communicated by John -Montgomery, chairman, to the Ho. Reps., Mar. 10th, 1808. The same -volume also contains, on p. 463, Doc. No. 212 of the 2d Session of the -9th Congress, a Report on Exploration of Western Waters, communicated -by Mr. Alston to the Ho. Reps., Dec. 22d, 1806, mentioning Lewis and -Clark, Pike, and Freeman, and recommending an annual appropriation for -the purpose of such explorations. But none of these bills passed or -became a law, though in Pike's own case they were, as we see, entirely -favorable to his claim for extra remuneration. The case was reopened -by Pike's widow, many years after his death; but nothing ever came of -it. This seems hard, especially as Lewis and Clark and their men were -well rewarded by Congressional legislation; but acts of Congress are -as inscrutable as the ways of Providence, in any question of right or -wrong. As to the composition of this chapter, see note 1, p. 807, and -observe that we have: (1) The Report of the Congressional Committee of -which Mr. Montgomery was chairman, recommending an appropriation. (2) -A letter from the Secretary of War to this chairman, inclosing copies -of instructions Pike received from Wilkinson for each of his -expeditions. (3) A copy of _one_ of these instructions, namely, for -the Mississippi voyage, but no copy of the other which ought to appear -here--for the reason, no doubt, that Pike had put it already in his -book, as a sort of preface to Pt. 2: see note 1, p. 562. Both or -neither of these instructions should have come here. (4) Dearborn's -complimentary letter to Pike. (5) Pike's return of men, etc., or -roster of his two parties, furnished for the information of Congress -upon the question of who were the persons for whom reward was claimed. - -[VI'-2] This roster is at variance with that given in the itinerary, -p. 358, where it stands one lieutenant (Wilkinson), one doctor -(Robinson, who was the volunteer), two sergeants (Ballenger and Meek), -one corporal (Jackson), 16 privates (Boley, Bradley, Brown, Carter, -Dougherty, Gorden, Huddleston, Kennerman, Menaugh, Miller, Mountjoy, -Roy, Smith, Sparks, Stoute, Wilson), and one interpreter (Vasquez). -Compare note 2, pp. 358-360, and note 50, p. 510. Numerous other slips -in this sketch, notably of dates, indicate that it was written from -memory. - -[VI'-3] It appears from Lieutenant Wilkinson's own report that he had -but five men with him, the sergeant and four privates. Pike's -enumeration of "six men" besides the sergeant includes the two Osages, -whom he thus counts twice, to an aggregate of nine persons. - -[VI'-4] As a pendent to the foregoing sketch, which was prepared for -the information of Congress, may be presented a hitherto unpublished -letter which Pike wrote to the Secretary of War soon after his arrival -in Washington, when he transmitted reports of his Western Expedition. -It is printed literally and punctually true to the manuscript now on -file in the archives of the War Department. - - WASHINGTON CITY .08 - Jany. 26 ... - - SIR! - - I am at length enabled to present you with the reports of my - late expidition from the period of our sailing from Belle - Fontain on the 15^th. of July 1806; to my leaveing my - Stockade on the Rio del Norte under escort of the Spanish - Cavalry; on the 27. Feby. 07. - - They should have been presented some time since, had I not - have been imployed by the Commander in Chief, for a very - consedrable proportion of my time since my arrival at the - seate of Goverment:--It must be recollected that the Spanish - General seized on all my Documents in his power; Amongst - which [were] the book of Charts protracted, daily, from my - notes and the eye; and although I retained a Copy of - Courses, Distances, &c--by which I have been enabled to - retrace my plans, and routes, yet they necessarily are not - so perfect as the Original and daily protractions would have - made them: They likewise obtained, and retained a note book - engrossed with Observations on the manners, morals, and - habits of the Aborigines of the countries through which we - passed; the loss of which naturally abridged my desertation - on those heads; also all my Meteorological tables to the - entrance of their country where [were] amongst the papers - sized [seized]: But what I regret the most was my - Astronomical Observations having taken at Several of the - most important points, the necessary Data, from which on my - arrival at the United States, and having it in my power to - refer to the appropriate tables and Calculations, I could - have fixed the Latt. and Longitude and thereby secured the - Great Geographical Object of giving a Determinate position - to Various and important points of our Country, from having - it in my power to correct the Chart which I now present you - agreeably to the true principals of spherical projections. - The few notes you see of the Latt. are ascertained from - letters I wrote Gen^l. Wilkinson at different periods and - the Longitude would have been preserved in the same manner - had I have had tables with me which would have enabled me to - calculate the immersions & emersions;--as well as angular - distances at the time the observations were taken.--In the - Chart herewith I have included all the Country between the - La Platte of the Missouri and the Red river of the - Mississsippi; and although it is, and from the nature of our - information, of that immense district _must be_, very - imperfect; yet I do not hesitate to assert it is the best - extant: I have carefully remarkd on said Chart all the parts - by actual survey and the Gentleman by whom surveyed, in - order that each may lay claim to his proper proportion of - fame.--You have also herewith L^t. Wilkinsons report of his - expedition after I detached him down the Arkensaw, (and his - seperate Chart on a large scale), in which he encountered - immense dificulties in the accomplishment of the desired - end. - - I have not the talents nor passions requisite for the - Botanist or Mineralogist, but had I have possessed them; the - various duties I was oblidged to perform of commanding - Officer, Surveyor; Astronomer; hunter; and advanced guard, - together with the dreary season in which we travelled part - of the route; with our minds much more actively employed in - forming resources for our preservation from famine; and - defence against any savage enemy who might assail us, then - [than] examining the productions of Nature which was under - our feet and Instead of our eyes being directed to the - Ground; they were endeavouring to peace [pierce] the Wild - before us--or giveing distinction and form to moveing Bodies - on the distant Prairies--or enjoying the rapturous sublimity - of the unbounded prospects which were frequently presented - to our View's. Yet Doc^r. Robinson who possessed both - talents, and taste for those pursuits; has promised to - enclose me some remarks which no doubt will be interesting; - and if received shall be presented to the War Department. - - After I entered the Spanish Dominions I was as careful to - conceal any notes or observations, I made on their country - as I had been indifferent to all that related to what was in - the conceived Territories of the United States; Trusting to - the dignified title of an American Officer; the Caution with - which I conceived the Spanish Goverment would act and an - Idea I had eroneously formed of their want of Energy; yet - owing to some Indications I was induced to conceal my - journal and other papers, leaving the Book of Charts &c for - to lull any suspicions which might arise from their being no - papers in the trunks. I now wish General Dearborne to - signify to me the extent he wishes me to enter in the of my - involuntary Tour through the Internal Provences of New Spain - if it is thought proper: I can give (from the Notes and - Documents in my possession) in addition to _my Diary and - Corrispondences with the Spanish Governors relative to my - Detention, seizure of my papers, the subsistence of my party - &c_; A General Idea of the Commerce, morals, manners, Arts, - and Sciences: A correct account of their Military posts, - with a well founded estimate of the whole Militia of the - Provences; their population, and relative connexion with - each other. Also, an Idea of their Annual revenue, the - monies coined at the mint &c. Some suggestions on the sate - [state] and influence of the Catholc Religion, The - Dispositions of the Inferior Clergy--to close whole with a - view of the general tendency of the Country to a revolution, - the interests of the United States in case of that event; or - the best mode of Treating with New Spain in case of a - rupture with the Mother Country; with a General Chart of - those parts of the provinces through which we passed. This - may be takeing to wide a field for the time, the Goverment - may wish to allow me in making the report; or they may - possess, information on those subjects from pens far abler - than mine, who may have anticepated those suggestions in - their full extent. - - I beg leave at this moment to call the attention of the Secy - of War to the situation of the remaining part of my - Detachment in New Spain which consists of one Interpreter, a - Young man of Good family in upper Louisiania whose salary is - 500 Dollars pr--Annum, one Sergeant, one Corporal and five - privates; several of those poor fellows have become cripples - from their limbs being frozen, and are in a strange country - amongst people whose language they cannot understand, from - their long detention without any information from their - native Land, dispair will seize their minds, and will - picture to their immaginations Years of Confinement in a - foreign Country--I who was late their Companion in - dificulties and Dangers cannot so soon forget our forlorne - situation, and the obligations I am under to them for the - promtitude with which they encountered danger, and fortitude - they exhibited, and the fidility and attachment they evinced - to their Military Commander, and leader, through those - scenes; as not to exert myself to call forth the attention - of the Government in their favour: I therefore hope that - General Dearborne will take such measures as may be deemed - expediant in order to restore those poor Lads to the service - of their Country. - - I am Sir With High Respect and - Consideration - Your Ob^t. Ser^t. - [Signed] Z. M. PIKE Captain - 1st UStates Reg^t. Infy - - The Hon^l. - HENRY DEARBORNE. - Sec. of War. - - -[VI'-5] The dagger set at Mountjoy's name is probably an error: see -note 2, pp. 358-360, and note 50, p. 510. Mountjoy was certainly one -of those who accompanied Pike from the Rio Conejos into Mexico, and -there is no evidence that he was dropped anywhere in that country. -Also, Pike says that only "five" privates were detained in Mexico when -he made a report to the Secretary of War, dated at Washington, Jan. -26th, 1808: see p. 853. Furthermore, witness the following hitherto -unpublished document, which I find in the archives of the War -Department, and in which Mountjoy's name does not appear: - -"Return of a Detachment of Infantry of the Army of the U: States, -detained at Chihuahua, the Seat of Government for the Internal -Provinces of New Spain, by Order of the Commandant General of those -Provinces, in the year 1807.-- - - "Baroney Vasquez--Interpreter - William E. Meek--Sergeant - Jeremiah Jackson--Corporal - Thomas Dougherty--Private - Jacob Carter--Ditto - John Sparks--d^o. - Theodore Miller--d^o. - Patrick Smith--d^o. - - "[Signed] Z. M. PIKE Captain - "1^st UStates Regt Infy" - -Above in clerk's hand, Pike's signature. Rec'd at War Dept. 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